Traverse October 2019

CLASSIC BBQ / PUMPKIN PATCHES MOUNTAIN BIKE TRAILS / BABY ALPACAS (YES!)

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WOODS! WATER! PEAK COLOR! D R E A M Y D AYS T O S AVO R N O W

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Contents october | features

Discover more about Up North, people, places, food and events.

34

28

44

48 28 | WATERCOLORS Woods, lakes and rivers dazzle in these freshwater fall scenes.

34 | GHOST LIGHT A Lake Superior lighthouse serves up dark humor, lore and plenty of goosebumps.

38 | HARD CIDER REVIVAL Cheering on the North’s incredible cider scene.

44 | BIRD DOG Head out into the fields to discover the loving and indelible bond between a hunter and his pup.

48 | GO GALLERY HAPPY Soak up gorgeous views in Charlevoix and Antrim counties and find vibrant fine art around every turn.

PLUS | NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE (FOLLOWING PAGE 56)

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’19

3

contents | departments

69 B a h l e ’s Proud distributor of

7 | EDITOR’S NOTE

61 | LOCAL TABLE

11 | UP NORTH

Jim’s Joint in Honor has the barbecue you crave.

Forest bathing; glass pumpkin patch day; your field guide to fall mushrooming.

69 | DRINKS

17 | THIS IS MYNORTH

71 | OUTDOORS

Hang out with us online, on social and at MyNorth Tickets.

19 | OCTOBER EVENTS Get out, get cozy.

23 | TRAVEL Visit these local farms— and their baby animals.

25 | UP IN MICHIGAN

D ow n tow n S u t to n s B ay bahles.net | (231) 271-3841 4

MyNorth.com

Grace before a harvest meal.

Have you tried orange wine yet?

Pumpkin patches we love.

72 | LOVE OF THE LAND Must-ride mountain bike preserves.

ON THE COVER Silver Creek, Petoskey.

Photo by Scott Castelein FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia

59 | DINING Fall drives to hidden gems.

pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL AND CONTENT EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Deborah Wyatt Fellows Emily Tyra Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Elizabeth Aseritis, Caroline Dahlquist Kim Schneider, Tim Tebeau, Andrew VanDrie Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr Rachel Watson Sarah Omen

WEB DIRECTOR

Jen Berigan

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Julie Parker

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

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MYNORTH TICKETS CUSTOMER SUCCESS SPECIALIST

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MYNORTH TICKETS ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

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OFFICE MANAGER BOOKKEEPER

Libby Stallman Kim Stewart

Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 Subscriber Services Visit MyNorth.com/sub to change your address or to review your account.

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Reprints Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174.

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly

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Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $27.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2019, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’19

5

editor’s note

Apple Country TEXT BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

My husband, Neal, and I are bike riders. There are times we bike significant distances in a day. However, many, many days we veer into a moderate ride that takes us for a glass of hard cider. Most often, this has been to Tandem Ciders in Leelanau County, but there are now many directions our tires can take us to find a refreshing, unique and local pint of hard cider.

It was with a genuine smile I first discovered that the name Tandem Cider comes from founders Nikki Rothwell and Dan Young’s tandem bike ride through southern England where they discovered the rich history and diverse blends of hard cider. With Dan’s history as a brewer, they had intended to seek unique brews, but Nikki discovered cider available in almost every pub. Not only that, homemade ciders were offered at farms all along the roadways to anyone who cared to stop in. That trip was the impetus for the two of them to move back to Northern Michigan, a place Nikki had hoped to land, and create local ciders that celebrate apples and the region’s abundant harvests.

When we first started writing about ciders many years ago in Traverse and on MyNorth.com, it was a niche phenomenon; another unique, albeit small way to celebrate our region’s fruit-growing heritage. Dennis Mackey had returned to Northern Michigan after building a wealth of knowledge in organic apple farming and took a chance on cider in 2007.

I doubt he could have predicted the rapid rise of cider in Northern Michigan that, while still a distance third to craft wine and beer, is growing significantly. But those who know cider’s

history see its rise as a rekindled pursuit after a long hiatus.

That’s because they know the true mission of John Chapman, aka Johnny Appleseed. In an article by Smithsonian Magazine entitled “The Real Johnny Appleseed Brought Apples—and Booze—to the American Frontier,” the author shares a concise history of Johnny Appleseed’s reason for wandering the countryside with a bag of apple seeds: By all accounts, Chapman was first and foremost out in the countryside because it was smart business. As the Northwest Territory was opening up, enterprising speculators were buying up huge swaths of land in anticipation of the arrival of settlers.

They often sweetened the pot in the ways the Ohio Company of Associates did in 1792, giving settlers permanent homesteads of 100 acres if the settlers planted 50 apple trees and 20 peach trees in three years. John Chapman got to the land before the settlers and planted the orchards, turning them around for a profit to settlers who recognized he had done the hard work for them.

Chapman’s entrepreneurial spirit dovetailed with the fact that, as a member of the Swedenborgian Church whose belief system forbade grafting, he had to plant only seeds. And this meant apples from his orchards were pretty much inedible. But no one cared. You didn’t grow apples in the 18th and 19th centuries to eat them.

You grew them to make hard cider, the overwhelming drink of choice— not just to replace beer or wine but to replace the need to drink water which was not always considered safe.

Howard Means, author of Johnny Ap-

pleseed: The Man, the Myth, the American Story, writes that “Hard cider was as much a part of the dining table as meat or bread.”

This all came to an abrupt halt with Prohibition. FBI agents literally chopped down apple orchards to prevent the ability to make cider, supported by temperance zealots who burned acres upon acres of orchards.

Since Chapman’s orchards bore inedible fruit, once cider was banned, any remaining orchards were left to die.

The comeback of the apple was to produce varieties good for eating and the apple’s primary role for centuries as the makings of hard cider were largely forgotten. Northern Michigan’s perfect fruit-growing landscape and climate contribute to Michigan being the third largest producer of apples in the country. William Smeltzer planted one of the first orchards in the state and many generations from many families have followed. Mark Evans and his brother Mike, a fourth generation fruit growing family in Benzie, were the first to take the gamble and bring the Honeycrisp to Michigan in 1993.

And it was a gamble. The Evans brothers knew that Northern Michigan was a prime-growing climate for the Honeycrisp, but it was considered to be unattractive as it was one of the first apples to be multi-colored, as opposed to a solid color. In addition, its skin is fragile and has to be carefully handpicked and placed in a side satchel so it doesn’t bruise. It was “ugly,” hard to pick and largely unknown—and it is now one of the most preferred eating apples in the country. The gamble paid off, another fruit-growing effort that cements the status of Northern4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’19

7

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editor’s note Michigan’s climate and landscape as among the best in the world.

Apples are seen as a cherished piece of history in our region, and there has been an ongoing effort by the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore to preserve apple trees planted as far back as the 19th century. Last spring 35 of the trees grafted and nurtured in nurseries were planted at the Kelderhouse Farm in Point Oneida. John Kilcherman of the beloved Kilcherman’s Christmas Cove Farm has been aiding this effort since the 1980s. The Kilchermans are known by so many as having cultivated antique apples on their farm in Northport for over 60 years. Just this year, John and Phyllis Kilcherman, now in their 80s, put the orchards up for sale.

They are hoping someone will carry on their decades-old tradition of using the unique Leelanau Peninsula to keep over 200 varieties of apples in existence.

This month, we take a look at a few of the local cideries dotting our Northern landscape, wholly unique from one another. How perfect to do it in a fall issue as apples abound at farm stands and fall colors beckon a chance to wander. As you step into one of these cideries, just as with our region’s wineries, what you will sip is carefully and lovingly crafted by people who really care about the fruit from which the drink comes. They are committed to their mission to celebrate our rich heritage and strong agricultural future by creating outstanding, often awardwinning, ciders and wines.

So relax, take in the often-gorgeous views and pastoral settings, and as you sip the crisp, slightly sweet or decidedly dry ciders, celebrate those whose efforts keep agriculture thriving in our region. And just for a moment imagine a landscape dotted with settlers who took a chance on heading west, pressing cider from their gnarled and cherished apple orchards and a man with a bag of seeds that started it all.

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Crooked riVer lodge, alanson Family-friendly lodge, overlooking the picturesque Crooked River.

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Perry Hotel, Petoskey Just off the bay in Petoskey’s historic downtown Gaslight District. 800-737-1899

Fall Packages Available Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth.com. debwf@traversemagazine.com.

staffords.Com Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’19

9

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Up North

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

Honor’s Cindra Moore leads a new generation of land stewards.

BY EMILY TYRA | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

Cindra Moore and I talk and walk along the edge of where farm and forest meet; land her great-great-grandfather homesteaded in the 1860s. This picture bookbeautiful spot is off one of the oldest roads in Benzie County, up the hill from the Platte River in Honor.

“I 'bought the farm' 21 years ago and reinvented myself ... something I find a lot of folks are doing,” says Cindra.

Cindra retired from professional gardening, began to grow her own food, and licensed the farm as a learning center to teach others. She was asked to create a course for the Interlochen Arts Academy for their survival and sustainability class. “I found I love teaching,” she says. “I was a former master gardener and a backcountry ranger, among a few other life experiences. What does a person do who has a lifetime of knowledge? They become teachers, if they are lucky enough.”4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’19

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up north | people

The Home of Pepper Mill Spices

If you have a kitchen, get in here!

Make time to connect.

Make it a habit to notice, see, feel and connect with the forces of nature around you.” —Cindra Moore

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MyNorth.com

We pause a moment by the bright red milk barn built by her ancestor.

Shielding the sun from her eyes, Cindra points out the giant maples at the edge of the woods. All of the leaves are flipped over, showing their more matte, silvery undersides. A sign of rain on the way, she says. (Sure enough, though a bluebird day at the moment, that night a heavy rainstorm comes.)

A modern theme of disconnect between human beings and their natural surroundings led to one key refrain in her teaching, that we “are not separate from nature, we are nature.”

An intentional shift in attention to the natural world is something Cindra herself experienced herself early in life. She was 13 when she went to live with her Anishinaabeg grandmother and great-grandmother. “They gave me a little taste of what they knew, and of their native spirituality. They instilled a deep reverence for the natural world and how to speak from the heart.”

Recently, Cindra developed a five-day nature guide course to teach people to become leaders in the practice of shinrin-yoku, or “forest bathing.” Forest bathing as a concept was developed in Japan during the 1980s and has become a cornerstone of preventive health care and healing in Japanese medicine.

Her course name, Walk in Beauty, comes from an Ojibwa saying and means to walk gently on the earth. Taking a forest bath or a “medicine walk” is not exercising or hiking, says Cindra: “It is simply being one with nature. We stay aware of our natural pace and our surroundings.”

Forest bathing is healing and bolsters a personal sense of wellbeing and self-esteem, explains Cindra. “Belonging to something larger than the self promotes healthy behaviors, reduces stress and helps people be mindful of their surroundings.” If it feels awkward at first, don’t give up. “Commit to trying it five times,” she says, “and watch what happens.”

With her course, Cindra hopes to inspire a new generation of leaders to teach others to slow down and to adopt the pace of nature. To be in the woods and feel as at home there as anywhere. Ultimately these leaders will become ambassadors for others to connect in a meaningful way to the natural beauty around them. After all, she says, “You’ll never take care of anything, unless you love it.”

Apply to take Cindra’s Walk in Beauty course at windsongcenter.net. Her ancestral homestead currently is awaiting its next steward, and Cindra will continue her path in teaching from other points north.

curiosities | upnorth

10 TH ANNUAL

Great Lakes Glass Pumpkin Patch Day PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

Palo Alto, California; Tacoma, Washington; Lisle, Illinois—people travel the country in search of the perfect pumpkin. Except, these pumpkins are handblown glass, each one a work of art. Joann Condino, owner of Three Pines Studio in Cross Village, created Great Lakes Glass Pumpkin Patch Day after visiting a similar event in Santa Fe. Always held on the first Saturday of October, Pumpkin Patch Day brings locals and visitors from across the nation to the studio. Here’s why they return, year after year.

HARRY BOYER

• Pick a pumpkin! They come in every color, shape and size.

Yes, some are even warty. Local glassblowers Harry Boyer, Lynn Dinning and Beth Cox will make almost 600 pumpkins for this year’s event.

• Watch glassblowing demonstrations. Lynn Dinning at Good Hart Glassworks does demos from 11 a.m.–4 p.m. and Boyer Glassworks has several throughout the day.

• Go leaf-peeping. The iconic Tunnel of Trees on M119 connects Three Pines Studio, Goodhart Glassworks and Boyer Glassworks.

It's one heck of a fall drive.

• Start, or continue, a family tradition. Kids, grandparents— everyone’s welcome.

• To meet Carina, the springer spaniel. This sweet pup is always at Three Pines Studio and she loves to meet every single person who walks through the door.

• Get the recipe. Yep, we’re talking about the famous pumpkin bars Joann makes every year. Known as “Chris Whitehead’s Mom’s Recipe,” the bars are beloved.

• Explore Cross Village. This lakeside community is also home to the much-photographed Redpath Memorial Presbyterian Church, historic Legs Inn and the European-inspired (and Joann’s favorite) Old World Cafe.

• Visit Harvest Fest. Black Barn Farm in Cross Village hosts their annual Harvest Fest the Sunday after Great Lakes Glass Pumpkin Patch Day. Stop by from noon to 5 p.m. for old-fashioned fun, craft vendors, kids’ activities, horse-drawn wagon rides, a farm market and more!

• See the Pumpkin of the Year. Similar to Pantone’s Color of the Year, Harry Boyer does a Pumpkin of the Year. Monet’s garden inspired this year’s bright, multi-colored pieces, aptly named Monet Pumpkins.

• Have a good time. Kids can run around outside. There’s pumpkin taffy, live music—Joann’s husband, Gene, may or may not dress up as a pumpkin. It’s good Northern fun. —Carly Simpson Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’19

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Discover What the Fuss is About C R A F T C O C KTA I L S • L O C A L G O U R M E T FA R E T IC K E T E D E V E N T S • F UN DR A I S E R S B I RT H DAYS • T E A PA RT I E S • C L A S S E S

1 2 3 S P E A K E A S Y . C OM 14

MyNorth.com

nature | upnorth

Field Guide to Fall Mushrooming

PORCINI IN THE WILD. INTENSE FLAVOR AND MEATY TEXTURE MAKE BOLETUS EDULIS THE KING OF THE FALL FOREST.

Lace up your hiking boots and head to the fragrant fall woods to hunt for edible fungus. We’ve profiled six of the most prolific and prized local mushrooms, though many more exist. When foraging for mushrooms and other wild edibles always use a field guide for identification to avoid poisonous species.

PHOTO BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

BY TIM TEBEAU

PORCINI (BOLETUS EDULIS)

LION’S MANE (HERICIUM ERINACEUS)

The gold standard of fall fungus, the porcini or cep proliferates under pine, spruce and hemlock. It has a bulbous stem, large brown cap and a nutty, meaty flavor that enhances soups, salads and pasta dishes.

A staple of traditional Chinese medicine, this delicious and bizarre species grows on dead and dying birch trees. It looks like a cluster of tiny white icicles and has a seafood-like texture when cooked.

CHANTERELLE (CANTHARELLUS CIBARIUS)

A parasitic mold turns this mushroom the bright red of cooked lobster and imparts a subtle seafood flavor to the firm, meaty texture. Great for sautées, hashes and stews. Lobsters grow in lots of places but especially favor hemlock trees.

This bright yellowish funnel-shaped fungus has a sweet apricotlike aroma. The delicate, unmistakable flavor is highly fat-soluble, making it ideal for cooking in butter, oil or cream. Look for chanterelles to cluster in mossy, coniferous areas.

CHICKEN OF THE WOODS (LAETIPORUS) The mushroom motherload, chicken of the woods is easy to spot.

It grows in bright orange and yellow shelf formation on dead and mature oaks. Meaty and tasting like, well, chicken, it can be fried or added to soups, stews and braises.

LOBSTER (HYPOMYCES LACTIFLUORUM)

OYSTER MUSHROOM (PLEUROTUS OSTREATUS) The gray, translucent petals of oyster mushrooms give off a faint anise aroma. They're easily found shelved on the trunks of dead hardwood trees. Incorporate the mildly flavored mushroom into any 'shroom dish.

Read more about autumn’s wild fungus + get recipes at MyNorth.com/fallmushrooms.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’19

15

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HANG OUT WITH US BEYOND THE PAGES

EXPLORE THE PETOSKEY WINE REGION

FEATURED EVENTS

You’ll discover deep-flavored wines made from cold-hearty grapes and bucolic vineyard settings in the Petoskey Wine Region, which includes 12 distinct wineries. Get your wine tasting passport, complete with each winemaker’s favorite vintage, and follow along for an irresistible day of sipping that is incredibly true to the region. What are you waiting for?!

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10/1-31 THE HUNT FOR THE REDS

Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail

10/10 MAY ERLEWINE RECORD RELEASE

FALL ADVENTURES

Old Art Building, Leland

#MyNorth

10/11 ARTISTS FOR FLOW FUNDRAISER

10/12 ORCHARDS AT SUNSET 5K AND FUN RUN

Gregory/Miezio Farm, Suttons Bay

10/24-27 FRANKENSTEIN

West Shore Community College, Scottville For more information visit MyNorthTickets.com.

@FISHER806LADY

Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts, Manistee

We love to see your photos!

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10/12 MET OPERA LIVE IN HD: TURANDOT

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Higher Art Gallery, Traverse City

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’19

17

DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION work best when Bay Area Contracting and BAC Design Group collaborate and forge their ideas together.

bac-tc.com | bacdesigntc.com

October

TIX Look for this symbol in our events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

FRI

Festivals | Celebrate the

beautiful and bitter hop plant with local food, craft brews and live music at the Empire Hops and Harvest Festival. Oct. 4-5. empirechamber.com

12

SAT

Art | The 10th annual Great

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SUN

Literary | Aarti Shahani’s book

4 5

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PHOTO BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

EDI T ED B Y L I B BY STA LLMA N

FRI

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Lakes Glass Pumpkin Patch Day at Three Pines Studio takes place in Cross Village, showcasing colorful, hand-blown glass pumpkins from Boyer Glassworks. threepinesstudio.com

Here We Are is a heartbreaking, hilarious and tender love letter to millions of people who have made their way across land and sea to find a new life in America, part of the National Writers Series in downtown TC. nationalwritersseries.org

Theater | Tricks Against

Humanity’s Ben Whiting delivers a hysterical evening of inappropriate magic and mind-reading you won't soon forget. Ages 18+. Old Town Playhouse, Traverse City.

MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

And More | Groundwork’s

THU

Music | Barenaked Ladies

FRI

18 SAT

19

THU

annual Harvest at the Commons farm-to-table fundraiser brings together friends, neighbors and farmers. groundworkcenter.org founding member and former frontman Steven Page’s distinctive and powerful tenor is among the most instantly recognizable voices in popular music. Catch his performance at the City Opera House, Traverse City. cityoperahouse.org

24

And More | The Zombie Run,

MON

And More | If you’re looking

26 28

And More | Northern Home

THU

& Cottage Tour! From M72 to M22, Old Mission to Leelanau, 12 of Up North's most stunning homes will be on display for one day only! Get tickets to the 2019 Traverse City Area Northern Home & Cottage Tour now.

MyNorthTickets.com

performance of Frankenstein at Center Stage Theater.

West Shore Community College, Scottville. Oct. 24-27.

MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

Film | The Fresh Coast Film

Festival honors the outdoor lifestyle, water-rich environment and resilient spirit of the Great Lakes. Oct. 17-20 in Marquette. freshcoastfilm.com

Theater | Enjoy a timely

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a 5K run/walk, has become a Traverse City Halloween tradition. Hosted by Right Brain Brewery, where the route starts and ends. tczombierun.com

for a fun, unique and intriguing night out, visit 123 Speakeasy for a murder mystery party! Bonus challenges and games are included in the program with prizes awarded at the end of the evening.

MyNorthTickets.com

HAPPY HALLOWEEN

FIND MORE AT M Y N O R T H .C O M > E V E N T S

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’19

19

events | october

4th Annual Glen Arbor Pumpkin Festival: 19

Save yourself a trip.

Call ahead to verify all times and dates. Find more events at MyNorth.com

Join the community for a fun, family-friendly celebration of autumn at prime fall color tour time! Glen Arbor Pumpkin Fest activities include: costume parade, pie eating contest, pumpkin carving, kid-friendly activities like face painting, games & crafts and a cake walk. There will be food, live music and Lord of the Gourd demonstration! Pumpkin Fest will be held at the Glen Arbor Township Park (located at the corner of M22 & State Street) with a rain location in the Glen Arbor Town Hall. visitglenarbor.com

Kids

Subscribe free to Kids Up North at MyNorth.com/kids.

Jacob’s Corn Maze: 1-Nov. 3

Art

Find more Art events at MyNorth.com.

Source For FLOW Exhibit at Higher Art Gallery: 11- Nov. 5

Invitational exhibit featuring water-themed paintings featuring 12 well-known local artists in collaboration with the local organization FLOW. Higher Art Gallery is delighted to launch annual shows in collaboration with local nonprofit organizations to use art as a catalyst to help raise funds. For the entire exhibit, a portion of each sale with go directly to FLOW. In addition, the opening reception on Oct. 11 features a raffle, silent auction and a playful game of darts! higherartgallery.com

Dance

Find more Dance events at MyNorth.com.

2019 Maze theme: Space Exploration. Oct. 26 Thriller Night with $15 admission. 3.5 miles from West Grand Traverse Bay on M-72. 231.632.MAZE, jacobscornmaze.com.

Downtown Halloween Walk: 26

October closes with a parade of little ghosts and goblins as Downtown hosts costume clad children and their parents to trick or treat at participating stores throughout the Downtown Traverse City area, 10-11:30am.

231.922.2050, downtowntc.com.

Fairs, Festivals and Holidays

Find more Fairs, Festivals and Holiday events at MyNorth.com.

Frankfort Beer Week: 7-12

Celebrate all that is great about craft beer in Michigan and do it in the cool, scenic, foodie town of Frankfort.

Nightly beer tasting, live entertainment, food events and tap takeovers. frankfortbeerweek.com Fall on the Island Festival: 11-13

Come for the colors and stay for the fun! This year’s theme is M*A*S*H 49726 with a Klinger dress-up contest, trivia contest, field medical demos and entertainment for the entire family. Enjoy incredible food from local restaurants and listen to a talented lineup of musicians while sipping a tasty craft beer. Located on Drummond Island in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. drummondislandfallfestival.com

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Michigan Hemingway Society Annual Conference: 18-20

Trick or Treaters have the whole community to Trick! The "country community" is welcome to decorate their trunks and open them to distribute treats on Main St. Back your vehicle in to a parking spot on Main Street so that you can open your trunk to the Tricksters on the sidewalk. Trick or Treating and Trunk or Treat are both 5-8pm. frankfort-elberta.com

The Michigan Hemingway Society hosts its annual conference at The Terrace Inn of Bay View, Petoskey. Dr. H. R. Stoneback is the keynote speaker and panel participant during the weekend. Dr. Stoneback’s credentials are respected throughout academia, not only as author and Hemingway scholar, but as an expert on Pound, Faulkner, Durell, Richard Aldington, and Elizabeth Madox Roberts.

His most recent volume, Hemingway’s Paris, Our Paris? is widely praised, and the international Hemingway conference he directed in Paris in 2018 was hugely successful and the best-attended in the Hemingway Society’s history. michiganhemingwaysociety.org

Literary

Music

Frankfort Halloween Trunk or Treat: 31

SwingShift and the Stars: 18

SwingShift and the Stars is an inventive performance competition, but more than that, it is a platform for area nonprofits to gain awareness, foster new relationships and raise much-needed funds for their organizations.

This season, eight nonprofits with the support of their business champions and local celebrities will join in on the fun. 100% of your donation dollars go directly to the organization of your choice. Opportunities for online giving are also available and strongly encouraged throughout the season. cityoperahouse.org/swingshift-2019-oct.

a fire alarm sounded in the Los Angeles Public Library.

As moments passed, the patrons and staff cleared out of the building, realizing that this was not the usual fire alarm. Weaving her lifelong love of books into an investigation of the fire, award-winning New Yorker reporter and New York Times bestselling author Susan Orlean delivers a mesmerizing and uniquely compelling book that tells the broader story of libraries and librarians in a way that has never been done before. Oct. 27 No. 1 New York Times bestselling author Nelson DeMille is out with a military suspense thriller and a new writing partner— his son, screenwriter Alex DeMille. The Deserter features two Army investigators on the hunt in Venezuela for Kyle Mercer, a dangerous deserter who might know too much about a secret Pentagon operation. The novel pounds with ripped-from-the-headlines excitement, an exotic and dangerous locale, hairpin twists and DeMille’s trademark humor. Enjoy a cash bar, live music and Morsels Sweet Treats, stage conversation and Q & A with author.

City Opera House, Traverse City. 231.941.8082, nationalwritersseries.org.

Find more Literary events at MyNorth.com.

Author Signing at Horizon Books: 5, 12

Oct. 5 Joyce hicks, One More Foxtrot, 1-3pm. Oct. 12 Tom McGuire, Steller’s Orchid, 1-3pm. Charles R. Eisendrath, Downstream From Here, 3-5pm. horizonbooks.com National Writers Series Fall Line Up: 6, 9, 16, 27

Oct. 6 Who really belongs in America? Aarti Shahani takes the stage to talk about her memoir, Here WE ARE: American Dreams, American Nightmares. Born in India, Shahani uses her family’s immigration story, her father’s unjust imprisonment, and her enrollment in one of the country’s most exclusive prep school to unpack the deep schisms in American culture. How American culture glorifies the “deserving” while demonizing the “undeserving” and in her family’s case, relentlessly. Shahani is an NPR correspondent. Based in Silicon Valley, she covers the largest corporations on earth. Oct. 9 Journalist Randall Sullivan serves up a detailed account of the centuries-old history of Oak Island and its treasure hunters who have driven themselves to financial ruin, psychotic breakdowns, and even death. The latest explorers, of course, are the Lagina brothers, Marty and Rick, along with engineer Craig Tester who star on the History Channel’s Curse of Oak Island reality TV series. Marty will take the stage with Randall! Oct. 16 On the morning of April 29, 1986,

Find more Music events at MyNorth.com.

Gopherwood Concerts in Cadillac: 5, 26

Oct. 5 Escaping Pavement: There’s something about the bend of the mandolin, the rustle of the guitar, the galelike wave of the vocal melody… that calls you to adventure. Songwriting duo Emily Burns and Aaron Markovitz have always been adapting. The two Michiganders met as individual music makers in the blues open-mic circles; then they studied their craft together in California, and wound up taking to the seas to cover Top 40 hits for a cruise ship’s dance hall. After that, they started a southern rock-inclined, neo-country quartet, called Escaping Pavement. But most of their fans started finding them after 2014, when they kept their intrepidsounding name but pared down to just a duo. Oct. 26 Luke Winslow-King (House Concert): Luke WinslowKing’s latest album is an example of craftsmanship at the highest level, radiating a warmth and timeless elegance. Adept at mixing country, blues, R&B, rock ‘n’ roll, and folk influences intuitively and masterfully, Luke shapes a mood from many sources and shepherds it to a unifying place of acceptance and hope. Blue Mesa is both stately and approachable, manifestly proficient but deeply personal. MyNorthTickets.com

october | events

Dennos Concert Series Line Up: 5, 19

Oct. 5 In their early days, Damn Tall Buildings didn’t rehearse—they busked. Now, whether live or on record, the band still radiates the energy of a ragtag crew of music students playing bluegrass on the street. But anchoring that energy is their instrumental chops, their strong songwriting, and their varied influences that stretch beyond bluegrass, even beyond American roots music altogether. Whether sharing lead vocals and instrumental solos or blending their voices into high-spirited harmony, Damn Tall Buildings are a tight unit that contains more than the sum of its parts. Oct. 19 With his fiery guitar and lap steel playing, his trailblazing, instantly memorable songs and gritty, unvarnished vocals, Selwyn Birchwood is among the most extraordinary young stars in the blues. His deep familiarity with blues tradition allows him to bust the genre wide open, adding new sounds, colors and textures, all delivered with a revival tent preacher’s fervor and a natural storyteller’s charisma. Tickets available at MyNorthTickets.com May Erlewine Record Release Second Sight: 10

May Erlewine and Friends will be hosting the release of her record Second Sight at the Old Art Building in Leland. Tickets are $20 in advance; $25 at the door.

MyNorthTickets.com MSU BeBop Spartans- Fall 2019: 12

The next generation of great American jazz musicians is represented in this ensemble playing improv, bebop, swing, blues & soul. West Shore Community College, Ludington. MyNorthTickets.com Angels and Demons : 27

Join the Great Lakes Chamber Orchestra, as they introduce Angels and Demons, an eerie-themed concert with music from Ravel, Schubert, Caplet. The strikingly morose title of Ravel’s work, Pavane for a Dead Infanta, belies its actual inspiration: far from being about death, the piece is not sad and mournful, but more in the realm of fantasy and something close to nostalgia: a more apt rendering of the title in English might well be "Pavane for a Princess from a Faraway Time." Great Lakes Center for the Arts, Bay Harbor. MyNorthTickets.com

Nature

Find more Nature events at MyNorth.com.

Fall Color Hikes with the Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy: 16, 20, 23, 30

Oct. 16 Hike the 176-acre Fruithaven Nature Preserve.

Enjoy a closer look at this property’s natural features along a winding trail through the forest and follows 0.7 miles of firm but rolling trail. Oct. 20 Hike at the proposed 290-acre Torch River Nature Preserve, which is one of the largest unprotected properties along the Torch River.

Enjoy a closer look at this property’s natural features and hear about its ecological value, recreational potential, project status and history. This hike is along a 1.6-mile rolling loop on firm trails. Oct. 23 Hike the 242-acre Green Point Dunes Nature Preserve. Enjoy a closer look at this property’s natural features walking along winding trail through the forest and meadow to stunning views of Lake Michigan. This hike is along 3 miles of firm but steep trail. Oct. 30 Start at the Pete’s Woods trailhead at Arcadia Dunes: The C.S. Mott Nature Preserve for a Fall

foray! Volunteer, Mike Grahl will lead participants along the 1.5 mile trail in search of interesting plants and any lingering fall foliage. This hike is along relatively even, well established trails with some hills. With any luck, fall colors will be in full swing! 231.929.7911, gtrlc.org

Runs/Walks/Cycling Events

Bite of Beaver Island: 5

See what the best professional and amateur chefs on the Island have to offer between 12-2pm. Sample a wide variety of treats! Check out arts and crafts in the BIC Center with live music and entertainment. This is a great weekend to enjoy fall colors with temperatures still moderate as the lake keeps Beaver Island warm later than the mainland. beaverisland.org

Island Boodle 3K Run/Walk: 5

Beaver Island Community School Beaver Island, beaverisland.org

Sleeping Bear Marathon/Half Marathon: 5

Sleeping Bear Dunes, Empire, 7:30am enduranceevolution.com

Fall on the Island Fest 5-10K Walk/Run: 12

Elementary School Ball Field, Drummond Island, 8:30am drummondislandfallfestival.com Peak2Peak Mountain Bike Classic: 19

Crystal Mountain Resort, Thompsonville, 9:30am crystalmountain.com Great Turtle ½ Marathon & 5.7 Mile Run/Walk: 26

Directly in front of the Mission Point Resort, Mackinac Island, 11:30am runmackinac.com

Classes & Workshops at The Botanic Garden: 9, 13, 23

Oct. 9 Houseplants in our Homes with Jeanine Rubert.

Oct. 13 Garden Storyteller Series, Harvest Tales to Tell Together. This is the fourth and final event in a series of seasonal storytelling programs for families! This interactive program will include stories and songs about the cycles of nature and a pumpkin craft. Oct. 23 Hydrangea Wreaths Make & Take with Terry Hooper. The Botanic Gardens are located at Historic Barns Park in the old State Hospital, Traverse City. MyNorthTickets.com Women’s Events on Mackinac Island: 10, 18

11th Annual Zombie 5K Run/Walk 2019: 26

Right Brain Brewery, Traverse City, 9am tczombierun.com “Run for your Lives” 5 or 10k, ½ Marathon: 26

Downtown Ludington, 9am downtownludington.org

Theater

Find more Theater events at MyNorth.com.

The Magic of Bill Blagg Live!: 3

The MAGIC of BILL BLAGG LIVE! tour comes to the Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts in Manistee for one show only! Critics and audiences alike rave about Bill’s interactive magic & jaw-dropping illusions that will have you rubbing your eyes in disbelief.

MyNorthTickets.com Harvey: 4-6 This Pulitzer Prize-winning play tells the story of an affable man whose only serious flaw is that he says his best friend is a six-foot-tall invisible rabbit. When his sister finally has enough of his hallucinations, she tries to commit him to a sanitarium but her plans go hilariously awry. Old Town Playhouse Mary Schmuckal Theatre, Traverse City.

231.947.2210, MyNorthTickets.com

And More

Find more events at MyNorth.com.

The Hunt for the Reds with Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail: 1-31

the Reds of October takes place weekdays during the month of October. For the entire month, your ticket buys a complimentary pour at each of 21 participating wineries offering diverse red wines with a signature wine glass.

Tickets are $20 per person and $5 per ticket goes to the American Red Cross. Great wine for a great cause; it doesn’t get better than that! MyNorthTickets.com

This is a great way to explore and discover red wines along the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail! The Hunt for

Oct. 10 Support the Mackinac Island Cancer Fund as you enjoy a 5-course dinner at the Grand Hotel with women of Mackinac Island. Bring your lady friends or treat your employees to a special end of the year get together for a great cause! Your $105 ticket entitles you to a Grand Hotel Five-Course dinner. The Mackinac Island Cancer Fund nets $50 for every ticket sold! Oct. 18 Celebrate womanhood at the Annual Mackinac Island Women's Wellness & A Wee Bit O' Wine weekend! Workshops, seminars, shopping, prizes, food, wine and more. All proceeds benefit the Mackinac Island Cancer Fund. This annual event is a weekend for women to celebrate friendships, health, shopping and of course ... a little wine. Join us this year for wellness seminars, renowned speakers, recreation activities, great food, fabulous shopping and so much more. Tickets are $75 and include all events for the weekend. Travel, meals and accommodations are not included in ticket price. MyNorthTickets.com Petoskey Restaurant Week: 18-25

Three-course menus for $15/$25/$35, with some establishments offering two-for-one pricing. Enjoy your favorite restaurants and discover new ones at an affordable price. The best restaurants of the Petoskey Area have joined forces for this special culinary event! petoskeyrestaurantweek.com.

Spooktacular Saturday: 19

Get outside and have some family fun during Spooktacular Saturday! It's a day full of fall activities that everyone is sure to enjoy. Activities include wagon rides, caramel apples, petting zoo, pumpkin carving, burlap races, fall bingo, pumpkin seed spitting contest, pin the nose on the pumpkin and the Haunted Trail. Get ready to scream! Ride the Loki lift & follow the lanterns down the Haunted Trail ... if you dare.

Oct. 18-19 and 25-26. crystalmountain.com/events Libby Stallman is calendar editor of Traverse. Enter your event information at MyNorth.com/events two to three months prior to event date. Questions or more information email Libby@mynorth.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’19

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what to do | travel

Farmyard Friends Think a puppy is cute? Wait until you see a baby alpaca. Visit these local farms and fall in love with fall.

TEXT BY CARLY SIMPSON

PHOTO COURTESY OF CRYSTAL LAKE ALPACA FARM AND BOUTIQUE

CRYSTAL LAKE ALPACA FARM AND BOUTIQUE, FRANKFORT Caution, these cuties will steal your heart. The 145-acre family farm tucked between Frankfort and Benzonia has 50 alpacas, with more on the way. The herd is watched over by Banner, Shandy and Murphy—Great Pyrenees who love to make new friends. The farm is also home to sassy miniature donkeys and dwarf goats. For a minimal fee, people can feed and pet the animals. Baby alpaca (cria) are born in the spring and fall, so watch for announcements on Facebook—these little bambinos are precious. Two boutiques at the farm brim with alpaca clothing, yarn, accessories and more. Fun Fact: A sweater made from alpaca yarn only needs to be washed once every 5 to 10 years—the fiber has hollow pockets inside which allows the fabric to breathe. CRYSTALLAKEALPACABOUTIQUE.COM

PAHL’S COUNTRY STORE, BUCKLEY Friends, swing by Pahl's pumpkin patch paradise and say hello to the sweetest goats this side of the Manistee River.

Stella, Elsa and the other gals are just waiting to be loved on. And, of course, Homey (the miniature donkey) and the truly precious Mama Kitty always want attention. Say hi to Harry and Megan, the resident peacock and peahen, then take a wagon ride through a "haunted" forest and warm up with concessions such as pulled pork sandwiches, chili and broccoli cheese soup—all homemade. Take home fresh

cider, doughnuts, hand-dipped caramel apples and pumpkin everything: cream cheese-filled pumpkin snickerdoodles, white chocolate chip pumpkin brownies. New this year—an apple cannon! PAHLSCOUNTRYSTORE.COM

AMBER ELK RANCH, LUDINGTON You’ll get up close—very, very close—to the elk at this 130acre ranch. An hour-long wagon ride takes visitors inside the large pens where you’ll get to feed the elk straight from your hand (their tongues tickle!). Bring a picnic lunch, stop by the free petting zoo and find a souvenir at the Antler Shed gift shop. Open weekends only after Labor Day through October 13. AMBERELKRANCH.COM

RUDBECKIA FARM AND WINERY, PETOSKEY Sisters Posey (more spots) and Coco Chanel (bigger) are fouryear-old Juliane pigs. Please don’t touch or feed them, but enjoy their chubby faces in their happy, bucolic habitat with a flight of wine or a pint of beer (yes, there’s also a brewery on site). All ages are welcome at this family-friendly farm in the heart of the Petoskey Wine Region. RUDBECKIAFARM.COM Carly Simpson is curator of MyNorth.com’s wildly popular Daily Splash newsletter. Are you a subscriber yet? MyNorth.com/newsletter

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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essay | up in michigan

Grace It’s the hush before the feast. All the human effort—the tension, beauty, passion and sheer inertia—to pull off a farm-to-table dinner of this magnitude holds its collective breath, for the moment.

PHOTO BY GARY HOWE

Mary Van Valin takes the tiny stage, in the center of a giant white tent on the grounds of the Grand Traverse Commons. It’s Groundwork’s Harvest at the Commons—620 guests dining together to support the nonprofit, plus the local food economy and community. Local farmers raised the fresh food in Northern Michigan’s fields, and local chefs prepared tonight’s incredible meal.

Mary is a former teacher, a longtime friend and fan of Groundwork, and a member of the board. She recently led an effort to install solar panels on a local school. Oktoberfest vibes fill the air, with smoked country sausage sizzling and friends toasting with local brews. Neighbors chat, anticipating burning off the feast and libations to the tunes of Detroit’s Queen of the Blues, Thornetta Davis, when darkness descends. At the tables, uncut loaves are the centerpiece, so everyone will

truly break bread together. Soon those sausages will arrive with mustards, onion jam, braised cabbage and fingerling potatoes, in a dreamlike sequence.

Then apple crisp with boats of fresh honey-whipped cream—all family-style at a community table. But first, it’s time for grace.—Emily Tyra

Mary’s blessing, as received at the 2018 Groundwork’s Harvest at The Commons ...

You are invited to take hands around your tables as a reminder that we are all connected in the celebration of this harvest. Let’s take a deep breath together.

We give thanks for this opportunity to gather each year, to pause for a moment and to let gratitude fill us. For the ancients over millions of years who have taught us to grow our food in reverence to the interconnected web of all life, we are humbled and grateful.

For the love of community that created this event, the loving hands, minds and hearts that planted, tended and harvested this food, we give thanks.

For those who transported, prepared and will serve our meal, we are so grateful. To all of you and the support you give to the work for resilience, thank you! And we are so grateful that our hearts will be warmed and energized by the music of Thornetta Davis this evening.

We are humbled to realize that our wellbeing is totally dependent on the natural world. So, coupled with our gratitude tonight, can be a deepened sense of responsibility to protect nature so that generations to follow can gather as we are tonight in bounty and in health. Let the actions of our lives reflect gratitude.

Though we come from varied religious backgrounds, tonight we are one; one in gratitude, one in our intentions to care for each other and this good Earth and one in the love that sustains us all. Blessed be.4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’19

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BOYER GLASSWORKS Harbor Springs, MI 231.526.6359 boyerglass@gmail.com

essay | up in michigan Every October, Groundwork Center for Resilient Communities organizes a farmto-table feast created by some of Traverse City’s best chefs. Here’s what goes into pulling off this zero-waste event supporting our region’s local food economy: HARVEST AT THE COMMONS—BY THE NUMBERS 14,200 square feet of tent 620 dinner guests 200 music attendees 50 silent auction prizes $5,000 50/50 raffle 8 chefs 25 servers 100 8-foot tables 264 bottles of wine 7 half-barrel kegs 35 sponsors 70 volunteers 250 lbs. apples 5 lbs. garlic 170 lbs. fingerling potatoes 170 lbs. green cabbage 250 lbs. whole hog pork 10 farms We think Harvest at the Commons says something amazing about the local food movement in northwest lower Michigan.

Despite our tiny population we pack the biggest rental tent available in the state—620 of us at once—to honor the farm families, their farmland and everybody on down the line who make our vibrant local food scene one of the strongest and most respected in the nation.

Groundwork helped light the fuse on our local food movement back in the early aughts with such initiatives as encouraging grocery stores to sell more local food, encouraging consumers to buy more local food, launching an innovative local food marketing agency and helping schools figure out ways to serve nutrient-dense local foods in their cafeterias.

Harvest at the Commons is a great party, yes, of course, complete with a delicious dinner, live music and dancing (this year funk band Funktion!). But it’s a party with a purpose, to take an evening and give thanks to those farm families and all the rest who have built our local food scene and make it better and stronger with each passing year! (FYI: The dinner sells out quickly, but you can buy tickets to the dance portion at the door.) See you there!

GROUNDWORKCENTER.ORG/EVENTS/

—Jeff Smith, of Groundwork Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’19

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Watercolors

M26, COPPER HARBOR // JOHN HILL // @JOHNHILLPHOTOS

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CHAPEL ROCK // ANDREW FLEES // @ANDREWFLEESPHOTO

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TRESTLE BRIDGE ON DEAD RIVER NEAR MARQUETTE // TYLER LEIPPRANDT // @MICHIGANSKYMEDIA

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CHIPPEWA RUN NATURAL AREA, EMPIRE // HEATHER HIGHAM // @SNAPHAPPYGAL

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HARBOR POINT, HARBOR SPRINGS // SCOTT CASTELEIN // @SCOTTCASTELEIN

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MICHIGAN HAS MORE LIGHTHOUSES THAN ANY OTHER STATE, AND NEARLY ONE-FIFTH OF THEM HAVE A GHOSTLY STORY TO BE TOLD. WHY ARE SO MANY OF OUR LIGHTHOUSES RUMORED TO BE HAUNTED? AND WHO ARE THESE SPIRITS? WHY DON’T YOU COME UP TO BIG BAY AND STAY AWHILE …

EXCERPT FROM MICHIGAN’S HAUNTED LIGHTHOUSES, BY DIANNA STAMPFLER PHOTOS COURTESY OF BIG BAY POINT LIGHTHOUSE

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nly a handful of lighthouses in Michigan operate as bed-andbreakfasts. Big Bay Point Lighthouse is one of them. Visitors spend the night with the ghosts that are rumored to haunt this sprawling brick structure. One word of advice, however, don’t read the ghost stories before going to bed at night—unless you plan on sleeping with one eye open.

The lighthouse in Big Bay, about 25 miles northwest of Marquette in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, opened in August 1896. It operated with an active keeper until 1941, when it was automated. It has been offering overnight stays high above the waters of Lake Superior since the mid-1980s. Even on nights when there is room at the inn, there is a full house, with as many as five resident spirits on site, including one belonging to the first keeper.

H. (Harry) William Prior (often spelled Pryor) was this light’s inaugural keeper, serving just five years. He and his younger brothers, James and George, had all tended the nearby Stannard Rock Light in the middle of Lake Superior—James began his service there in 1883, followed by George in 1888 and William in 1890.

The oldest brother was known to manage his light with an iron fist, was often regarded as cantankerous and recorded in his own words that he had trouble keeping qualified assistants. He was also meticulous in the keeping of his logs, which sheds light on many of the trials and tribulations involved in tending a remote lighthouse.

On November 11, 1897, Prior noted that he left the light at 11 p.m. to walk to Marquette following the death of his only sister, Esther Grace Prior. He was away from the light for about a week, leaving it in what appeared to be the incapable hands of his first assistant, Ralph Heater. Upon his return on November 18, Prior entered his dissatisfaction in his logbook, which was reprinted on TerryPepper.com: “I can not [sic] see that the assistant has done any work around the station since I left. He has not the energy to carry him down the hill and if I speak to him about it he makes no answer but goes on just as if he did not hear me; he is so much under the control of his wife he has not the hart [sic] to do anything. She has annoyed me

during the season by hanging around him and hindering him from working, and she is altogether a person totally unfit to be in a place like this as she is discontented and jealous and has succeeded in making life miserable for everyone at this station.

“As my assistant objects to working during the closed season, I have written to the inspector to get his opinion on the matter,” Prior entered on December 27 of that year, followed by “My assistant claims now that he is unable to work as he has a lame back” on January 1, 1898.

Frustration turned to dark humor in mid-February when Prior noted, “Mr. Heater arrived from Marquette at 6 p.m. and walked the entire distance of 33 miles in 12 hours, including two rest stops over an hour each … pretty good gait for a lame man.” Then again February 27, when he wrote, “Mr. Heater came across the ice to the other side of Big Bay with his wife. It is Sunday and his back is not lame today.”

Relief, however, was in sight as Prior reported two days later that he “received a letter from the Office informing me that my Asst. would be transferred to Granite Island, for which I have every reason to be thankful.”

Stepping into the assistant role was George Beamer. Yet, just one month in he was called into duty during the Spanish American War, at which time his wife, Jennie, was appointed in his place—becoming the only woman to ever serve at Big Bay (from May 12 to August 26, 1898). When George returned from service, he proved to be about as useless as his predecessor and Prior noted that this keeper also often complained he could not work because of a bad back.

“Asst. Beamer does not take hold of his work as he should. He evidently expects me to work with him whenever he is at work, and if I do not, he leaves work and does nothing until I get back to him,” Prior noted on September 19. The next month, he continued his dissatisfaction and made a record of it should documentation be necessary for the lighthouse service. “As Mr. Beamer always objects to my questions and resents my interference, and I have passed over his dereliction before and not caring to be constantly making reports unfavorable to him, I have written this for future reference when the inspector arrives.”

Toward the end of October, Prior

documented his ongoing concern about his assistant: “Asst. Beamer complains of being sick and talks of leaving the station to go home to Detroit. He is too high strung for a light keeper’s asst, between himself and his wife this season I imagine that I am keeping a Home for the Helpless Poor instead of a U.S. Lighthouse. I and my family having to do the greater part of the work while they receive the pay.”

Finally fed up with the lack of qualified assistants, Prior put Beamer on a steamer and sent him home on November 1, 1898.

Among his final notes on this assistant, he said “this Beamer…is without exception the most ungrateful and the meanest man I have ever met.”

In November 1898, Prior appointed his 19-year-old son, George Edward, (also noted as Edward George) to the position and father and son worked side-by-side for about 15 months. In mid-April 1901, tragedy struck when George fell on the steps of the crib cutting the flesh down to the shin bone. The keeper noted in his log on April 18 that “he will have to remain in hospital for treatment.” Throughout the late spring and early summer, the younger Prior battled gangrene, which had eventually eaten way at the tissue of his leg and ultimately took his life. On June 13, Prior wrote, “1:30 p.m.

Keeper summoned to Marquette to bury his son who died this morning.”

Following the death of his son, Prior slipped into a state of severe depression.

He was noted as despondent and his log entries dwindled over the subsequent days.

On June 28, he was rumored to have disappeared into the woods near the lighthouse with his gun and some strychnine. Locals feared the worst and a long search to find him, alive or dead, proved fruitless. One day that autumn, Mary and the four younger Prior children (ranging in age from two to 15) left on an afternoon boat to live in Marquette.

The following November, The Mining Journal reported that “the remains of Harry W. Prior, the light keeper of the lighthouse at Big Bay, who disappeared last June were found by a ‘land looker’ Monday in the woods. The find was a gruesome one.”

The Sault Ste. Marie Evening News also published an article mentioning that a deer hunter discovered a human skeleton dangling by a rope from a tree limb in the woods about a half-mile south of the lighthouse.

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BIG BAY POINT LIGHTKEEPERS OF YESTERYEAR

Police speculated that it was the remains of the former keeper who had disappeared and was thought to have committed suicide 18 months before. Apparently, there were remnants of the keeper’s uniform, as well as a few tufts of his red hair, helping to further identify the body. The story ran under the headline “May Be Light Keeper Pryor’s Body”: “A man arrived in Marquette from Big Bay with a report that a skeleton had been found there, at a point about a half a mile from the light. There was a rope around the fleshless neck, it is stated, and the evidence pointed to a suicidal death of the unfortunate. It is surmised that the skeleton is the remains of Lightkeeper Pryor, who disappeared at Big Bay. It will be remembered a few months over a year ago, Mr. Pryor wandered off in a fit of temporary insanity, and was never seen again, although a diligent search was made in the vicinity by the people at Big Bay, assisted by Marquette friends of the missing man.”

The death of George Prior followed by the suicide of William Prior isn’t the only dramatic story to come out of the small unincorporated community of Big Bay (2000 population: 285).

The Big Bay Lighthouse was automated in 1941, and like so many other Great Lakes lights, it was rented out to the U.S. Army and National Guard for training purposes.

During the 1950s, soldiers camped out in the meadow and woods to the west of the lighthouse while undergoing anti-aircraft artillery training. On the cliff, east of the

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lighthouse, they installed large guns used for target shooting over Lake Superior.

It was during this time, in the summer of 1952, that 38-year-old Lieutenant Coleman Peterson, a veteran of the Korean War and an active member of the 768th anti-aircraft battalion at Camp McCoy in Wisconsin, was temporarily stationed at Big Bay. While in town at the still-operating Lumberjack Tavern, he shot and killed the owner and bartender, Maurice “Mike” Chenoweth because he believed the bar keep had raped his wife, Charlotte Ann, earlier that evening.

Peterson was charged with murder in a well-publicized trial, which today has become part of a self-guided tourist trail around the Marquette area. He was eventually found not guilty by reason of insanity after being represented by defense attorney John D. Voelker—who was later appointed as Associate Justice of the Michigan Supreme Court from 1956 until 1960.

In addition to practicing law, Voelker was also an avid fisherman and author— writing under the name Robert Travers. It was under this pseudonym that he penned Anatomy of a Murder in 1958, based on the famous Marquette County case. That in turn became an award-winning movie in 1959, starring Jimmy Stewart, George C. Scott and Eve Arden, with music by Duke Ellington.

The Big Bay Point Lighthouse was decommissioned by the U.S. Coast Guard in 1961, at which time Dr. John Pick, a plastic surgeon from Chicago, purchased the structure and 33 acres of land for $40,000.

He spent the better part of 17 years restoring the dilapidated building into his dream summer home, until poor health in his 80s forced him to sell to Dan Hitchens of Traverse City, who continued to modify the lighthouse into a corporate retreat center before the economy forced him to sell just five years later.

Norman “Buck” Gotschall and his wife, Marilyn, became the next owners of the historic lighthouse, turning it into a B&B. They brought back the Third Order Fresnel Lens from the Park Place Hotel in Traverse City and displayed it in the recently-restored fog signal building. Over time, the couple acquired more property around the light, amassing close to 100 acres that were outfitted with trails, sculptures and a landing strip to the south of the lighthouse for Buck’s 1957 tri-pacer.

It was during the Gotschall years that the first ghost tales were reported in the media. An Associated Press wire story published on October 30, 1989 in the Green Bay Press Gazette said: “Gottschall insists he and his wife did not invent Pryor’s [sic] ghost to drum up business. Instead, he said, the first sighting was reported shortly after the inn opened by two guests who saw the spirit walking around the lighthouse in his U.S. Life Saving service uniform.”

The article also references quick and unexplained banging, running water in the basement shower and other phenomena all attributed to the former keeper.

“Every morning in the spring he wakes

LATITUDE: 46.8417° LONGITUDE: 87.6800° CLOSEST TOWN: Big Bay YEAR FIRST LIT: 1896 Your visit will be right out of a storybook—a ghost storybook. Bright red, perched on rocky cliffs above mighty Lake Superior, this bed-and-breakfast inn is one of the few surviving resident lighthouses in the country and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Enjoy a beautiful breakfast before a day of play, and cap it with the sunset view from the light tower. bigbaylighthouse.com

me up, taps me lightly and bids me to go fishing,” Gotschall continued. “I know that fishing was important to a lighthouse keeper. So I have to fish every morning. I’ve always tried to comply. I don’t want a mad ghost around.”

Anne and Dennis Kirby from Plainwell spent their honeymoon in the summer of 1990 at the Big Bay Point Lighthouse while the Gotschalls were keepers. That first night, Anne remembers, they settled into their guest room and were later awakened by the sound of something ping, ping, pinging down the stairs, as if someone had dropped a marble down the steps. The next morning, she said there on the bedside table, in a small ashtray, a single marble lay resting—a marble that hadn’t been there the day before.

In March 1992, three avid preservationists and one-time guests from Chicago— John Gale, Linda and Jeff Gamble—became the next owners of the historic light, purchasing it from the Gotschalls upon their retirement.

In a February 11, 1996 article in the Star Tribune out of Minneapolis, Minnesota, Linda admitted she “heard him once…I think he’s gone now, though. I had a conversation with him in the kitchen.” In the November 24, 2007 Twin Cities Pioneer Press out of St. Paul, Linda Gamble told travel writer Beth Gauper that one night, she was startled awake by the sound of slamming cupboards in the kitchen.

“I thought it was a drunk coming back from the [Tavern],” Gamble said in the article.

“I have a temper, and I stormed up, but no one was there. So I figured it must be Will, and I said, ‘OK, I know ghosts don’t like change, but we’re changing things. I have to get up in the morning and make breakfast, so cut it out.’ Then I slammed a cupboard and went back to bed. The next morning, all the cupboard doors were closed, and we’ve never had a reputable report of Will since,” she said. “I call that an Italian exorcism.”

More than one story accounts for a tall red-headed man wearing a late 1800s uniform walking the grounds around the lighthouse, doors and windows opening and closing on their own, lights turning off and on by themselves and disembodied footsteps making their way across wooden floors.

One overnight guest reported seeing the reflection of a man wearing a keeper’s hat standing behind her in the mirror. Other guests have awakened from deep sleep to find a man gazing at them from the end of their beds. Countless stories tie the ghosts to crewmembers lost at sea during nearby shipwrecks or a woman who was reportedly murdered at the light when it was abandoned in the 1950s (although no record of such a crime was found in an online search of local newspapers).

Nick Korstad stepped into the keeper role when he assumed ownership of the Big Bay Point Lighthouse on May 11, 2018. He is also the current keeper of the Spectacle Reef Lighthouse in Lake Huron. Before coming to Michigan, he bought and restored the 1875 Borden Flats Lighthouse on the

Taunton River in Fall River, Massachusetts, which was featured on HGTV’s You Live in What?

When asked via email about any ghostly encounters, Nick said, “Unfortunately, I haven’t had much time to gain access to the ghostly past.” Yet, if history is any indication, it won’t be long before the spirits make their presence known.

Reprinted from Michigan’s Haunted Lighthouses

by Dianna Higgs Stampfler (The History Press, 2019). Dedicated to all the passionate keepers of Michigan’s lighthouses and those who refuse to let their histories be extinguished. For more tales from our haunted lights, buy an autographed book at MiHauntedLighthouses.com ($19.99 plus shipping/handling).

In 2004, Dianna Stampfler launched Promote Michigan, a public relations consulting company specializing in the hospitality, tourism, agriculture, culinary, natural resources, recreation, history and culture industries of her home state. It is her passion to share the stories of the people, places and products of Michigan. Dianna currently resides in northwest Michigan. This is her first book. If you have a ghost story to share, email Travel@PromoteMichigan.com.

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HARD CIDER RE VIVAL IT’S AS CLASSIC AND ICONIC TO OUR NATION AS APPLE PIE, AND NOW IT’S BASKING IN ITS OWN LITTLE RENAISSANCE. DISCOVER THE CRAFT CIDERIES, WINERIES AND BREWERIES SERVING UP THE NORTH’S INCREDIBLE CIDER SCENE.

BY GREG TASKER // PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

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y first autumn behind a tasting room bar at a winery on the Leelanau Peninsula, I found myself confounded by the parade of customers who skipped our extensive selection of red and white wines to sample hard cider.

Cider? This is a winery.

What could I say about hard cider? It’s fermented apple juice.

I wanted to talk about fermented grapes. Cider was a beverage I associated with apple-crisp fall days, trips to orchards, cider mills and pumpkin patches. What else was there to talk about?

With wine, there is so much to talk about—grape varieties, growing conditions, residual sugar levels, flavor profiles, the nuances of aging chardonnay, merlot and pinot noir in oak barrels, so many palates to try to please.

Sure, I could rattle off facts about cider—the apple varieties used, where the fruit juice came from to make the berry flavors, the alcohol levels ....

But I didn’t get it.

Until recently.

A random stop at Two K Farms Cidery & Winery on the Leelanau Peninsula steered me down a new path and broadened my cider palate (I didn’t know I had one). It turns out I like cider the way I like wine, generally dry, some fruit notes and unexpected nuances.

The truth is, northwestern Michigan is made for hard cider. From St. Ambrose Cellars in Benzie County to the boutique wineries surrounding Petoskey, the region has embraced cidermaking, and it’s no wonder. Apple orchards abound. And creating hard cider is more akin to making wine than crafting beer (though, oddly, cider is often packaged like beer, in cans and growlers). Many wineries began turning to cider to diversify, especially after a couple of back-to-back bad growing seasons.

And it’s what customers are on the hunt for.

“People are always looking for something new,” says John Behrens, president of the Michigan Cider Association. “People have gotten into craft beer, wine, so cider was not a huge leap from there. People are familiar with apples and locally made products.

It’s something they’re comfortable with—the hurdle has been getting people not to associate hard cider with the sugary, sweet apple juice or cider they tasted as kids.

“Wine doesn’t necessarily taste like grape juice,” he points out.

Behrens, who grows apples and makes cider on a fifth-generation family farm near Grand Rapids, adds that although hard cider might be seen as the newest craft beverage trend, hard cider has been around a long time, harkening back to colonial days. It was once the most consumed drink in the country, before Prohibition. The market has exploded in recent years, he notes, thanks to great producers and a growing variety of styles, and consumer interest in gluten-free alternatives to beer.

Today, Michigan is home to 90 licensed cideries, a number that includes wineries and others producing ciders. We rank as the third largest producer of hard cider in the country, behind Washington and New York, those other big apple-growing states. Most of Michigan’s cider producers are located in western Michigan or the Traverse City region. Cider is prevalent at wineries on both the Leelanau and Old Mission peninsulas.

“Cider is really an ice breaker,” says Bryan Ulrich, winemaker at Left Foot Charley in Traverse City, which was at the forefront of the cider scene, pressing apples well before the end of the last

decade. “Having cider eases the conversation for people who come in the tasting room and aren’t sure about wine. They might be more beer drinkers. I think the industry has really worked to define styles and celebrate cider. It’s become such a cool, popular beverage.”

Left Foot Charley happened to be one of my first stops on the cider trail. Typically, Left Foot has five ciders on tap and others available in bottle. I was impressed by Henry’s Pippin and Cinnamon Girl, its most popular cider. Henry’s Pippin is made by blending different fermentations, creating a crisp, dry cider. Cinnamon Girl, made with apples harvested from Old Mission Peninsula, tastes like a liquid apple pie, with just the right hit of cinnamon.

My immersion in the world of cider took me near and far. Before I share the highlights with you, I offer a few tasting tips from Ulrich and others serving or producing cider.

Sample cider like you would wine, from dry to sweet. Ulrich also suggests trying the straight apple products first, before venturing on to ciders blended with fruits, herbs and other ingredients. The aim is to get your bearings about what apples and apple ciders really taste like.

Let’s start at Tandem, the granddaddy of cideries in the region.

As the region’s first full-fledged cidery, Tandem Ciders has been pouring hand-crafted ciders for nearly a decade and offers a chill spot to savor the region’s bounty.

Husband-and-wife team, Dan and Nikki, created a charming atmosphere in the hilly terrain beyond Suttons Bay. The tasting room evokes an inviting atmosphere much like a British pub—something the couple had in mind when they founded Tandem Ciders. The inspiration for the cidery was inspired by a trip to England, where the pair rode a tandem around the countryside. Finding British beer served too warm for their tastes, they stumbled upon chilled, and more refreshing, cider.

Tandem’s most popular ciders, Smackintosh and Green Man, are on the sweeter side, with higher levels of residual sugar.

The sweetness isn’t overwhelming and the apple flavors shine through. I was impressed with Farmhouse, a British-style cider made with classic apples, Winesap and Northern Spy. The peninsula’s other fullfledged cidery is Suttons Bay Ciders, just off M22.

The handcrafted ciders were developed by owners Mark and Madelynn Korzon, Ann Arbor transplants who have turned the former residence into orchards and a rustic tasting room. The hands-on cider-making operations are in the cellar below.

The Korzons tap apples from both Old Mission and Leelanau peninsulas, including Northern Spy, Ida Red, Honeycrisp, McIntosh, Jonathan and Rhode Island Green. Typically, more than a dozen ciders are on tap, ranging from dry to sweet along with various Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '19

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fruit and other blends, with ingredients including sumac, lavender, cherries, mint, ginger root and maple syrup.

On the sweeter side, Smitten, a blend of Northern Spy, Ida Red Swiss Gourmet, Jonathan and other apples, is the most popular. It boasts a clean, crisp taste, with lots of apple flavor. I was smitten

by Testamint, a blend of apples infused with locally harvested mint.

Ciders at wineries abound, and there are far too many to mention, but I was intrigued by the cider at both Two K Farms Cidery & Winery and Green Bird Organic Cellars, the region’s only organic winery.

Brothers George and Max Koskela opened their cidery and tasting room high on a hill above Grand Traverse Bay in 2018. The brothers purchased a dormant 80-acre farm in 2010 and began planting heritage apples, wine grapes and hops the following year.

They are phasing out of hops, focusing on apples and wine grapes.

They use a variety of domestic and heritage apples for their dry to semi-sweet ciders—the apples are all grown on the farm.

The outdoor patio overlooking apple orchards and West Grand Traverse Bay is an inviting spot to kick back and enjoy Two K’s ciders.

The dry ciders, including Arthur and Cooper, are the go-to’s here.

Arthur is light and crisp, described as a traditional British-pub-style cider. Cooper spent some time in French and American oak and I loved the nuances the barrels created in this refreshing cider.

South of Northport, Green Bird Organic Cellars exudes a cool vibe. (How can it not with a tasting room painted bright Caribbean green!) Green Bird has been making cider since 2014. Its apples are grown organically and harvested from nearby Garthe Farms.

Most of the ciders lean dry, with pronounced apple flavors. I found Empire, a French-style cider pressed from Empire and Willamette apples (the name is also a nod to the village near Sleeping Bear), particularly refreshing, like biting into a fresh apple.

“Something we really believe in is not tampering with the flavors of the fruit too much, that goes for apples and grapes,” says Betsy

Sedlar, tasting room manager and one of the owners of the operation. “Most of our ciders are French-style ciders—they’re mostly dry to mid-palate ciders. They drink more like wine.”

Exploring farther north, I discovered Townline Ciderworks, just off US 31 on the way to Elk Rapids. The cidery sits on a rise beyond the highway and a family farm stand, with bucolic views of orchards and fields of fruit. Long before Townline opened as a cidery, in 2017, the family was pressing apples for other big names in the region, including Short’s.

Cidermaker Matt Frollo is a familiar name in the region; he formerly worked as winemaker at St. Ambrose Cellars and Peninsula Cellars on Old Mission Peninsula.

“I try to make my ciders more like wine, like a nice, clean chardonnay or riesling. They’re more of a wine style than old-world-style ciders, which are sour and funky,” Frollo says. “I like to have control over my ciders and let them know where they’re going.”

Nearly a dozen ciders are on tap at any given time in the tasting room, as well as a few wines, also made by Frollo. Giggles, a dry blend of apples infused with farm-grown raspberries, is the most popular cider on tap. I was impressed with Big John, a blend of Jonathon, Jonagold and Gala apples and aged in oak barrel.

I discovered another surprise here: Fresh Strawberry, a cider made from a blend of apples and the family’s farm-grown strawberries. It may be the most delicious and refreshing strawberryanything I’ve ever tasted; the fresh berry lingers on the finish.

So I’m now a cider enthusiast. A real one. And I’ll be back in the tasting room this fall, eager to share the knowledge I’ve gained about apple varieties, the cider-making process and guide even the most discerning palate to find the perfect sip.

Writer Greg Tasker splits time between Ann Arbor and Leelanau County. // Dave Weidner is a freelance photographer based in Traverse City.

1 4 6 GREEN BIRD CELLARS, NORTHPORT / 2 3 TANDEM CIDERS, SUTTONS BAY / 5 7 SUTTONS BAY CIDERS, SUTTONS BAY

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SUTTONS BAY CIDERS GREEN BIRD CELLARS, NORTHPORT

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TANDEM CIDERS, SUTTONS BAY

HARD-PRESSED TO PICK, BUT OVERJOYED TO PRESENT OUR 31 NORTHERN MICHIGAN CIDERS TO TRY NOW ...

REPORTING BY GREG TASKER, CARLY SIMPSON, KARA JARVIS AND EMILY TYRA

01 Queen Ann // Townline Ciderworks, Williamsburg // Holy moly blissful berries—an apple blend with fresh strawberries, blueberries, sweet and tart cherries.

18 A ntrim // Left Foot Charley, Traverse City // Snappy and bright, heirloom apple notes through and through.

02 Pineapple Habanero Hard Cider // Resort Pike Cidery & Winery, Petoskey // Luscious, spicy-sweet heat. Tastes like a sunny vacation.

19 P each Cider // Glen Arbor Wines, Glen Arbor // Refreshing but not too sweet and clingy—just like biting into the perfect peach on a late summer day.

03 Testamint // Suttons Bay Ciders, Suttons Bay // A blend of MacIntosh, Fuji, Mutsu apples infused with locally harvested mint for a bright and herbal thirst-quencher. A summer seasonal to try before it runs out!

20 X .R. Cyser // St. Ambrose Cellars, Beulah // A blend of honey and apple juice fermented together; affectionately deemed “Apple Pie in a Glass.”

A perfect sippin’ cider for those with a sweet tooth.

04 The Ghost // Bee Well, Bellaire // An exquisite semi-sweet heat crafted with ghost pepper, habanero, Carolina reaper, smoked cayenne and Scotch bonnet peppers makes you crave another sip ... and another glass.

21 O ctorock // Starcut Ciders, Bellaire // Just sweet enough. Bright, crisp and the closest cider comes to biting into a fresh apple.

05 Hand Picked // Royal Farms, Ellsworth // Made with antique and uncommon cider apple varieties. Not too sweet, not too dry. Crisp.

06 K ing’s Cherry // Bee Well, Bellaire // Bee Well’s first Balaton and Montmorency cherry blend with King Orchards cherries and apples.

Sweet, tart and refreshing—drink well-chilled!

07 Sandra Dee // Townline Ciderworks, Williamsburg // A medium-sweet apple blend infused with cherry juice and vanilla—also available in cans.

Must love vanilla, it lingers in the best possible way.

08 P ulsar // Starcut Ciders, Bellaire // Dry cider made with Michigan apples and Pinot Noir yeast. A little tart.

09 L emongrass Lime // Taproot Cider House, Traverse City // Semi dry, bright and refreshing.

10 M adagascar Vanilla Bean Bourbon Barrel Aged Cider // Taproot Cider House, Traverse City // Behold this semi dry delight, aged in Grand Traverse Distillery barrels. Note: 12% abv 11 M K’s Ultra // Resort Pike Cidery, Petoskey // Sweetened with brown sugar and caramel. Yeah, it’s sweet. Yeah, it’s good.

12 L avender Apple Hard Cider // Northern Natural Cider House, Kaleva // Organic heirloom apples + a lavender bouquet = bliss.

13 P assion of Sice // Bee Well, Bellaire // 100% golden delicious apples, aged in tequila staves yields a sweet, tart, passionfruit-y sipper with a deep yellow hue.

14 R aspberry Rush // Chaos Ciders (Verterra), Leland // Medium dry with a little spritz.

15 S ingle Track // 45 North Winery, Lake Leelanau // Bright, crisp, slightly tart. Aromas similar to an IPA without any bitterness on the palate.

Definitely dry and herbal.

16 C innamon Cider // Rove Estate, Traverse City // Dry take on a fall cider classic. Cinnamon forward, finishes with apple. Tastes like baked apples.

17 S idra-LaPeño // Suttons Bay Ciders, Suttons Bay // Barrel-aged infused with jalapeños and habaneros. Just enough kick. Refreshing and tart with heat on the finish.

22 A rthur // Two K Farms, Suttons Bay // Traditional British pub-style cider... dry and refreshing.

23 H ard “Just Apple” Cider // Chaos Ciders (Verterra), Leland // Exactly what you’re thinking of when you’re thinking of hard apple cider. Slightly off-dry.

Cool, crisp, carbonated and delicious.

24 E mpire // Green Bird Cellars, Northport // Created from Empire and Willamette apples, this French-style cider tastes like you’re biting into a freshly picked Empire apple. Refreshing.

25 S mackintosh // Tandem Ciders, Suttons Bay // There’s a reason this is a perennial favorite. A combination of McIntosh, Northern Spy and Greening apples, this cider is not overly sweet despite the amount of residual sugar.

Nice apple flavor.

26 C innamon Girl // Left Foot Charley, Traverse City // A blend of apples grown on Old Mission Peninsula, with just the right amount of cinnamon, this cider tastes like a slice of homemade apple pie in the fall. Tasty any time of the year.

27 A lma Mater // Townline Ciderworks, Williamsburg // Greening, Spartan and Mac apples are blended to create this dry cider, one of several winners on Townline’s menu. Tastes like you’re biting into a fresh apple. You’ll enjoy, even if your alma mater is maize and blue.

28 C ooper // Two K Farms Cidery & Winery, Suttons Bay // This is a dry, well-balanced cider with some nice nuances, thanks to some time spent in American and French oak barrels. Not overly oaked, with light tannins.

29 I Spy Ginger // Suttons Bay Ciders, Suttons Bay // Northern Spy and Ida Red apples are blended and infused with ginger root in this off-dry cider.

There’s a tingliness, for sure, but the ginger balances the apple sweetness.

30 F resh Strawberry // Townline Ciderworks, Williamsburg // Summer beverages don’t get much better than this. An apple blend infused with strawberries grown on the grounds at Townline, this cider is not too sweet, not too dry. The finish lingers, reminiscent of biting into a fresh strawberry.

31 S emi-Dry Hard Cider // Nomad Cidery, Williamsburg // Like a happy, flannel-shirted embrace and brimming with fresh-pressed apple goodness.

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B IR D DOG A chance encounter formed their remarkable bond. This autumn in the northwoods of Leelanau County brings the ritual they both hold sacred.

STORY BY SAM BROWN // PHOTOS BY LAURA BROWN

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—SAM BROWN

HER BLOOD DOESN’T FLOW WITH PUREBRED LINEAGE AND SHE DID NOT COME WITH A CERTIFICATE OF AUTHENTICITY. SHE’LL HOLD A POINT WHEN SHE FEELS LIKE IT AND WILL RETRIEVE A DOWNED BIRD IF SHE DOESN’T HAVE TO SWIM TOO FAR.

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Layla isn’t a bird dog in the gentleman’s sense—obedient, purebred and exceptionally good at hunting. Calling her one may offend those who spend the time, money and effort into molding man’s best friend into a woodcock-pointing, duckretrieving, grouse-hunting canine.

But she’s my dog and I’ll call her what I want to—my bird dog.

Her blood doesn’t flow with purebred lineage and she did not come with a certificate of authenticity. She’ll hold a point when she feels like it and will retrieve a downed bird if she doesn’t have to swim too far.

She honed these instincts wandering the woods of Alabama, where I found her weak and abandoned on a rainy day, which also happened to be the day I unconsciously became a dog owner.

Too broke and busy for a dog, I tried to find her an owner. Days turned into weeks and before I knew it, I was buying her fancy dog food and we were sharing a pillow. I lived in a run-down shack on 80 acres of miserably humid and buggy countryside just outside Auburn, Alabama, where my fiancée (now wife) was going to school. Layla was the companion a Yankee needed to settle into this new country and keep the rats out of the pantry (yeah, really).

People say dogs take after their owners; when I found Layla, she was independent, lonely, rough-around-the-edges, and stubborn.

We bonded immediately.

Bird dogs are a tool. A tool that also happens to beg for belly rubs and roll in rotten things. Watch a bird dog in the field and try and convince me they would rather be somewhere else. They wouldn’t. Which is why every time Layla sees me grab my gun she scampers around the house thumping the walls with her tail while I lace my boots. She was made for this, and there is nothing she would rather do besides sleep in my bed.

On our way to the field, Layla smears the passenger side windshield with slobber as she anxiously looks ahead; those slobbery smudges are the mark of every dog owner who lets their pupper ride shotgun. Once her paws hit the ground it’s time to work.

An eclectic mix of whippet and lab, Layla’s athleticism is remarkable. Her big lungs fill with the fragrant autumn air as she bounces and sprints at lightning speed to every smell that could be dinner.

She wants to make dad proud, and this is most obvious when she’s breathing so hard she can’t keep her tongue in her mouth.

As she tears through the young aspen forests, ferns, and spring -fed streams our quarry calls home, I savor the increasingly rare time in my life when I have nothing to do but stroll through the woods with my grandpa’s shotgun by my side and maybe shoot

some dinner. Most bird hunters won’t admit it, but bird hunting in Leelanau can be a walk-in-the-woods-with-a-gun season, which is fine with me—we all need more reasons to take a stroll in the woods and remind ourselves this sacred land and spiritual light demands our full and undivided attention, even when our elusive objective never makes an appearance.

Bird dogs serve a very specific purpose—pointing, flushing, and retrieving. A pointer will use its nose to pinpoint a bird for the hunter and hold “point” until a hunter flushes it or another dog.

A flusher will use its instincts to locate a bird and flush it at the same time for the hunter. A retriever does just that, it will retrieve a downed bird after it is shot and bring it back to you if all goes according to plan. In many cases a dog may dabble in all three of these specialties. Generally, you don’t need to train a dog how to hunt. A good dog will still point, flush and retrieve with or without training. You need to train a dog to hunt for you. Which is precisely where the resilient bond between a hunter and a dogs begins.

Out in the field is where this relationship taps into its primal source—man and beast on a quest for sustenance. Fortunately, failure doesn’t have the same consequences as it did for my ancesters, or else I’d be long gone.

Layla is primarily a flusher and a pointer when she’s in the mood.

She uses her thin black frame to squirm in and out of brush piles and thickets in pursuit of game. If it’s a good day, she’ll do this within gun range, which is about 35 yards. Other days she’ll flush birds 100 yards away and look back at me, “Dad! Did you see that?!”

Waterfowl and upland bird seasons fall conveniently into the regal time of year when the light slants, the air chills and the woods turn golden. And it is this time in the field that hunters seek.

This land, these critters and the freedom to experience them is a privilege. And having a dog to follow as you explore it is one of the best reasons I’ve come up with to wander these sandy glacial moraines. When you scratch a dog’s ears after a hunt—and she’s panting like a steam engine—you’ll know.

Keep up with Sam Brown’s public land hunting pursuits and dog obsession on Instagram @gnarggles. Laura Brown is a ceramic artist and water lover— follow her at @laura.lou9. The couple lives in Empire.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '19

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KE D L A UN N D RO -A T A M R AR E A F S FI N O U NT E RG R A GO VI B H D U G FI N O R D AY TH AN .

ER KOL E Y D N S E I MC U I TR U R H N SA CR U N Y T C S LI S CO ER M KI ME EV Y Y B B X T OS E T OT PH

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On a fall road trip through the orchards and rolling hills of Charlevoix and Antrim counties, you are likely to spot a moose that lures you off the highway. That your wildlife sighting is actually the anchor piece for Twisted Fish Gallery and Sculpture Garden near Elk Rapids is just a bonus.

Through its 20-year history, Twisted Fish has gained a reputation as the go-to spot for both whimsical yard sculptures and massive canvases that make a perfect living room centerpiece.

Inside the Cottage Annex hangs one such example—a lifelike and nearly life-sized painting of an elk. There’s also a tiny owl carved from driftwood and a table crafted of local stones, ironwork and slabs of wood. Throughout both galleries and garden, the works of 70 (mostly) Michigan artists mingle colorfully and companionably, some of them representational of the orchards, lakes and bucolic landscapes you passed en route. Others are more abstract, but always emotion-invoking.

Lynn Streit, who took over as manager of her parents’ gallery last year after time working in South Africa, didn’t want to be known for just one genre. Instead, she wants to deliver on the sentiment she hears from both artists and visitors. As she offers them tea from the cottage kitchen, a spot at the doodle-time table or the chance to take home a piece to try it out in their space before making a final decision, they say: “I come here, and I feel like I’m home.”

Like the other artists and gallery owners you’ll meet along the way on this gallery tour, Lynn was intentional about where home was. In her case, the appeal was in large part the pastoral nature of routes that head to the next gallery stop, Otis Pottery. Plying north on U.S. 31, you pass the tidy rows of wine grapes at WaterFire Vineyards, and the cows usually grazing near Grandma White’s apples. Royal Farms signs boast cider on tap, Friske Market’s claims, “Not your average fruit stand.” Take a moment to check out all, and the occasional glimpse of Grand Traverse Bay.

twisted fish gallery Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '19

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A quick diversion on your gallery hop: head down M66 along the southern shore of Lake Charlevoix to find the roadside attraction of the Ironton Ferry. This ferry attached to cables has the distinction of being the world’s shortest ferry trip—10 minutes round-trip—and you can cross on foot for 50 cents ($3 by car)—not much more than Robert Bedwin charted in 1876 when he took people across for a nickel in a rowboat.

Definitely go round-trip, though, so you can get back to Otis Pottery, two miles south on M66 down Lake Charlevoix’s south arm. There’s a storied history to this studio housed inside a 100-year-old homestead. For 28 years, it’s been the gallery of David and June Otis, and more recently joined by their son, Andrew.

David and June started making pottery 40 years ago in Germany, inside an 800-year-old castle, and they quickly gained a Northern Michigan following for David’s one-ofa-kind teapots, June’s hand-built pieces such as her popular framed hearts and the settings for Japanese tea ceremonies or sushi plates—inspired by June’s Japanese heritage. Both the functional cookware and the more sculptural pieces are set apart by accent glazes of a bright color or water-inspired turquoise.

Visitors are welcome to watch the artisans at work firing up their new wood-fired kiln. See David add the ash marks that long ago gave his work a distinctive style. Or watch Andrew throw pots up to six feet tall; he’s one of only a handful of potters in the U.S. doing such large-scale works, something you don’t doubt as you watch him center 75 pounds of clay at a time, using his whole body in the process. These works are thrown in two sections and dried partly by torch so the two halves can be connected before they’re fired. As a last step, he carves in intricate designs, often topping his pieces with a kimono figure that’s carried through many of the gallery’s works.

“It’s almost like working with a canvas,” Andrew says.

“There are so many possibilities in texture and design.”

otis pottery Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '19

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Wind south, 10 minutes down M66, to the town of East Jordan on Lake Charlevoix at the mouth of the Jordan River.

The outside of your last gallery stop is nondescript, but what you find inside Jordan Valley Glassworks is anything but.

Word-of-mouth alone has brought customers, from most Michigan governors to Henry Winkler (a.k.a. The Fonz).

The gallery’s boldly colored glass ornaments have graced many state Christmas trees. The designers craft works from showpiece chandeliers (that collectors have displayed alongside works by Chihuly and other glass legends) to small paperweights. Other standouts are glass vases infused with Michigan wildflowers or ladybugs—created by blowing a big flower or bug to the thickness of a pencil, picking it up with hot glass and melting it in. A new passion is adding colorful glass to old ladders or rustic chandeliers, but the best seller remains the Governors Puff Pot. This round piece was originally designed for the National Governors Conference to capture Michigan—green forests on top, blue waters on bottom, and beaches and history represented by the infusion of sand and copper.

Take in a bit more of those inspiring blue, green and copper hues—in the form of hilly farms and forests washed in fall color—as you finish your trip to the east by way of the Breezeway, a pastoral drive along County Road 48 that leads from East Jordan back to U.S. 31 at Atwood. Soak it all up. The art and the natural beauty of an afternoon well-wandered.

Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she’s the author of 100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die. // Melisa McKolay is an award-winning photographer specializing in lifestyle portraiture & wedding photojournalism. mckolayphoto.com

jordan valley glassworks Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '19

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For the Way You Live Up North

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Volume 23

For the way you live Up North

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Number 11

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61

features 11

Welcome to the Traverse Area Northern Home & Cottage Tour

departments 35 Natural Gem 39 Modern Mid-Century

13 The Last Re-Lo

42 The New Rustic

16 Wine Country Home

49 Family Condo, the Next Gen

7

Editor’s Note Storied Homes.

8

Northern Style Bring on the Buffalo Plaid.

22 Long Lake Beauty 53 The New Le Bear 27 Modern Farm House (Kicked Way Up) 31 Craftsman with a Euro Accent

57 Beautiful Day in This Neighborhood 61 Northwoods Elegance

Click on Live Here >Home Ideas

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

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OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2019

contents

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL AND CONTENT EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Emily Tyra Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Elizabeth Aseritis, Caroline Dahlquist Kim Schneider, Tim Tebeau, Andrew VanDrie

Theresa Burau-Baehr Rachel Watson Sarah Omen

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Julie Parker

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Ann Gatrell Jill Hayes Meg Lau Cyndi Ludka Katie Wray

MARKETING DIRECTOR

Erin Lutke Kara Jarvis

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STYLE

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WEB DIRECTOR

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Libby Stallman Kim Stewart

From the Publisher of

Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 Subscriber Services Visit MyNorth.com/sub to change your address or to review your account.

Please e-mail other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800.785.8632 between 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. EST. Reprints Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174.

Our design showrooms feature the largest collection of curated Northern Michigan style in the region. Our design consultants will serve up the hot space planning you crave.

Grab your ideas, grab your keys and tour our design showrooms.

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Northern Home & Cottage is published as a supplement to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. 125 Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684 All rights reserved. Copyright 2019, Prism Publications Inc.

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC5

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Leonardo da Vinci 1452 - 1519

231.941.1448 • paulmaurer.com • Traverse City, Michigan

editor’s note

Storied Homes

Bradley J. Butcher, AIA bbutcher@sidockgroup.com 989.705.8400 • sidockgroup.com Novi • Wyandotte • Lansing Muskegon • Gaylord • Sault Ste. Marie featured on

Anyone who has followed this publication for any length of time at all knows that I love architecture and especially residential architecture.

While I have endless respect for the innate style of a home, as a writer I am attracted to the backstory that shaped the home. A home is a cold shell without a story; a story adds the warmth, soul, heart, zest, spice and interest to a dwelling. The best designers know how to take that backstory and curate it—shaping the homeowners’ narrative into form, color and objects.

Behind each of the fabulous homes on our 2019 Traverse/Leelanau Home Tour is a rich, human backstory—and a designer who honed in on it, and then honed it into a beautiful living space. Take the Rickey home on Lake Skegemog, for example. When Jan and Mark Rickey got the opportunity to build their own Up North dream, they fully planned on bringing Jan’s elderly mother with them on the move from Colorado.

As Jan told me—on a sun-drenched day, sitting on the Lake Skegemog shore—her mom was a true Tennessee lady (friends, in fact, with Dolly Parton’s family). Jan mimics that wonderful Tennessee accent perfectly, catching the warmth of this spirited woman who was adored by friends and family.

Just the year before, Jan had nursed her mom through a horrible illness. But her mom had survived and was looking forward to the move.

Then, as they were packing the moving van, she blinked, exhaled and was gone …

After the couple got to Michigan, Jan spent the next months shellshocked over her mother’s death. They’d planned a top-to-bottom renovation of the 1950s ranch, but Jan didn’t have the spirit to dive in.

That is, until she met designer Kim Hooker of Cedar Creek Interiors. Jan became her client, but more importantly, the pair became collaborators and friends in turning this sow’s ear into a silk purse. With Kim’s help, the Rickey home became a place of light, style and grace. Most importantly, it became a gathering place for their far-flung family to continue the close-knit get-togethers Jan’s mother loved. See why I love the stories?

Join me, will you, on this spectacular tour of storied homes; Saturday, October 19, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

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Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com.

Tom McNally

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC7

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BUFFALO PLAID!

1. Buffalo Plaid Michigan Hat: The Fish Hook, Leland, 231.256.9501, fishhookleland.com, $26

THIS CLASSIC CHECK IS BACK AND BETTER THAN EVER. IT’S AT HOME IN A FARMHOUSE AND GIVES A CRISP POP TO MODERN DECOR.

2. Battery Powered Mini Lantern: Manitou Outfitters, Leland, 231.256.723, FB, $27

CURATED BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS + GAIL SNABLE PHOTOS DAVID WEIDNER

5. Stuffed Buffalo: Toy Harbor, Traverse City, 231.946.1131, downtowntc.com/merchants/toy-harbor, $19.50

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3. Boris the Bear Serving Board: Pennington Collection, Northport, 231.386.9890, penningtoncollection.com, $30 4. Checked Napkins: Greta’s of Leland, 231.256.9133, $21.99

8

7 12

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9 6. Buffalo Plaid Planter: Two Fish Gallery, Leland, 231.256.9350, twofishleland.com, $29.95 7. Stuffed Bear: Toy Harbor, Traverse City, 231.946.1131, downtowntc.com/merchants/toy-harbor, $39.50 8. Ebony Blanket: The Nest, Traverse City, 231.946.0232, nestofgrandtraverse.com, $93 9. Leland Blue Silverware: Pennington Collection, Northport, 231.386.9890, penningtoncollection.com, $18 each

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10. Manskills, How to Avoid Embarassing Yourself and Impress Everyone Else: Cali’s, Traverse City, 231.947.0633, FB, $15.99 11. Women’s Buffalo Plaid Jammie Bottoms: Greta’s of Leland, 231.256.9133, $34.99 12. Whiskey Soap: Porcupine, Northport, 231.386.1177, enjoy-michigan.com, $9 13. Men’s Buffalo Plaid Jammies: Greta’s of Leland, 231.256.9133, $36.99

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 9

2019 Traverse/Leelanau Area Northern Home & Cottage Tour Saturday, October 19, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

The second of our annual Northern Michigan home tours, this tour features 12 stunning homes packed with ideas—both grand

of Northwestern Michigan. Established in the 1930s, this organization provides crucial services to the children and families of our region.

and immediately doable. You’ll visit homes on lakes big and small,

To find resources on our 2019 Northern Home & Cottage Tour

in a vineyard, on the tippy top of ridges overlooking lakes, and in

homes, please go to MyNorth.com/2019tourTC. Tickets (along with

neighborhoods and small towns where you’d want to raise your kids.

the tour map and driving directions) are $25 in advance (until 4

This tour takes you from Williamsburg, just east of Traverse

p.m. October 18); $28 at the door. To purchase tickets please go to

City, out onto Old Mission Peninsula and all the way to the Leelanau

MyNorthTickets.com. For more information: 800.836.0717.

Peninsula. It is very doable in a day, but it helps to plan your route ahead of time. As always, we’ve kept the ticket prices low so if you

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can’t make it to all the homes, you’ll still find full value in your day.

We are so grateful to the homeowners who have so generously opened their homes for this tour that benefits Child & Family Services

TOUR

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4 3

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

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231.946.1234 env-arch.com

interior design services

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Kim Hooker, Interior Designer

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CREEK

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231.946.1234 env-arch.com

LOCATION 795 HOILES DRIVE WILLIAMSBURG DESIGNER CEDAR CREEK INTERIORS 231.498.2511 CEDARCREEKINTERIORS.COM

the last re-lo Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Dave Speckman

The piece of property that Jan and Mark

that faces the lake. A new outdoor room off

Rickey found on Lake Skegemog several

the great room is perfectly outfitted with an

Other touches include reusing the

years ago was gorgeous—a huge swath

outdoor fireplace and big-screen television.

home’s original circa 1940s horizontal pine

of green lawn rolling down to this pretty

The new layout is pleasing and airy,

paneling in the foyer and the guest bath-

lake. But the 1950s-era ranch cabin that

but it is the design elements that Jan, Kim

room. Another don’t miss is the faux brick

came with it, not so much. “When Jan first

and contractors Tim and Mike Steffen of

wall in the master suite that Tim custom

showed it to me, I said, ‘Well, this is going to

Steffen and Sons Contracting and Jen

made by outlining the brick shapes in wet

be a total transformation …’” interior deco-

Markey of Thomas Building Design pulled

cement and painting them in weathered

rator Kim Hooker of Cedar Creek Interiors

together that really make this home sing.

shades of red—a touch so cool it needs to

relates.

Super-cool creamy, Chicago brick-style

castoffs into elegant showpieces.

be seen to be believed.

But it is amazing what a bit of wall demo

ceramic tile sets a head-turning stage in

An artistic use of stucco is another

will do for a floor plan; what strategically

the new kitchen where navy blue cabinets,

element that succeeds in elevating this

rebuilding other walls will also do; and

brass fixtures and lighting, walnut cabine-

home’s style quotient. See it in the trowel-

what space can be found in converting a

try and glossy subway tile look as sharp

plastered living room ceiling (which

six-car garage. Then there is the exuberant

as a salute. The use of reclaimed doors

replaces old popcorn tile), in a new fireplace

style inspiration that comes when a cre-

and lighting that Jan and Kim foraged

facade that recalls Old World coziness and

ative homeowner collaborates with a gifted

for on trips together to various Northern

in this home’s pièce de résistance: a stucco

designer and a skilled contractor.

Michigan antique architectural element

wood-fired pizza oven located between that outdoor room and the water.

The primary structural changes to the

shops (including Deer Creek Junk, Grey

home were opening up and rearranging

Wolf Creek, Architectural Antiquities and

No doubt, tourgoers are going to leave

the kitchen and converting a six-car garage

Kelly’s Antiques) bring a vintage feel with

this home with visions of reclaiming and

into a wing that houses three bedrooms

endless layers of interest. TC Mirror and

reno ideas for their own homes.

including a master suite, a small sewing

Shower Door replaced glass and turned

room and a glass-fronted workout room

old doors into mirrors in feats that turned

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 13

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TOUR HOME

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 15

TOUR HOME 16

MyNorth.com

LOCATION 12743 BLUFF ROAD TRAVERSE CITY CONTRACTOR MAC CUSTOM HOMES 231.935.4609 MACCUSTOMHOMES.COM

wine country home Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Design Strategies

Surrounded by a lush vineyard and with

stunning East Bay view. The floor is an

gemstone with its watery view, silvery-

a stellar view of East Grand Traverse Bay,

espresso-colored fumed-oak, the coffered

toned bedding and and gas fireplace facade.

this Old Mission Peninsula home perfectly

ceilings, molding and built-in cabinetry are

The bathroom features a claw foot tub (that

embodies the casual elegance of wine

creamy white and the walls are dove gray.

Sandy got for her birthday several years

country. The truth is, until several years

A spectacular brushed granite island that

ago) repurposed from the original master

ago, it perfectly exemplified the choppy

measures a whopping 12.2 feet long and 44

bath. Originally an almond color, MAC

rooms, oak cabinets and tile floors of the

inches wide is large enough for guests to

refinished it in an elegant black.

overall typical style of the late 1980s and

gather around while Larry and Sandy cook.

Though the family used to refer to the

early 1990s. Although it was time for a style

Brushed chocolate-colored granite tops

lower walkout level as dark and dreary, that

upgrade, homeowners Larry and Sandy

the perimeter cabinetry and complements

moniker is a thing of the past. Upgrades

were fond of the home where they raised

the dark floor. A sunroom off the kitchen

include a bar with a classic brick back-

their boys. Its bones were good and its site

offers a comfortable spot for Sandy to read

splash and a theater room. Hands down,

exceptional, so when their nest emptied

while she enjoys the view. Attention to

however, the pièce de résistance is a wine

they decided a top-to-bottom renovation

detail remains the key to perfection for Joe

tasting room featuring a lit, temperature-

(with a small addition) was a better choice

and the entire construction crew of MAC

controlled glass-doored cellar, wine barrel

than moving.

Custom Homes, a fact that truly shows

tables and custom wainscoting Larry made

throughout this home.

from the tops of wine boxes. The space

Enter Marcy Hurst from MAC Custom Homes who guided the couple through the

Both the homeowners and Marcy give

was actually one of their sons’ bedrooms

entire renovation and addition, working

huge credit to interior designer Dorina

when he was growing up. Now, as an adult,

closely with MAC’s new owner, Joe

Rudd of Design Strategies for her ability to

it’s the first place he wants to go when he

Colegrove, who has brought his experience

weave family keepsakes into the interiors,

comes home.

and expertise to the company. The team’s

including a striking Asian-styled screen the

The entire project was based on a fabu-

primary structural moves were knocking

homeowners loved but doubted could be

lous working relationship between the

out a wall that separated the kitchen and

used in the new design. Undaunted, Dorina

homeowners and MAC Custom Homes.

living room (creating a sweet open bar in

mounted it against the living room’s back

Sandy trusted Marcy to winnow down

part of the space), bumping out the back

wall and used its muted blues, greens and

millions of choices to a few—and other

to add architectural definition and adding

reds to set the room’s palette. Her choice

times, she gave her complete free rein. “She

a generous new deck and ground floor

of plushy wide-wale corduroy-covered

really ‘got’ my tastes,” she says.

master suite.

couches in the living room is a standout in

The result is an airy, gracious, neutraltoned great room that embraces the

this comfortable country house.

The master suite sparkles like a small Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 17

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of

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OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 19

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maccustomhomes.com • 231.935.4609

TOUR HOME

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 21

TOUR HOME

22

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LOCATION 970 WEST LONG LAKE ROAD TRAVERSE CITY CONTRACTOR FERRARO GROUP 231.933.6089 FERRAROGROUP.NET

long lake beauty Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Jacqueline Southby

The deep blues and greens of Long Lake

team had to replace six to eight feet of marl

custom cabinetry across the room and is

and its surrounding shoreline lend them-

with compacted sand before the founda-

topped with a stunning slab of granite that

selves to a similar palette—one with rustic

tion could be built. From that foundation

ripples in shades of green and blues like the

nuances. That is one reason this home

a contemporary Craftsman rises, clad in

lake out the window. A backsplash of pale

is so fabulous. The other is the way it

stacked stone, shake and pine beams and

green glass subway tile embossed with a

was constructed, from the very first design

brackets. Inside the mahogany front door

ribbed texture continues the watery theme.

concepts to finished home. The Ferraro

(custom-made by Wooden Hammer LTD

And the want-want? A set of beer taps

Group, architect Colleen Shannon, interior

of Traverse City) the great room soars to a

mounted right into the island.

designer Jamee Hagen and Ferraro presi-

cathedral ceiling paneled in whitewashed

This home is as energy efficient as it is

dent, Mike Ferraro, collaborated with the

knotty pine and lined with wooden beams

handsome, registering 1.4 on the blower

homeowners to make this everything a

stained the color of mahogany. The walnut-

test, which is exceptional relative to the

home should be: well built, beautiful and

toned Cortec floor echoes the beams and

much higher scores seen in Grand Traverse

beautifully functioning, right on budget and

matching custom cabinetry. The stacked

County—but a score that is typical in

exactly what the homeowners dreamed of.

stone chimney and fireplace, and an inte-

Ferraro homes. “It’s all about understand-

“We make all the decisions up front during

rior wall also faced in stacked stone, work

ing how to minimize air leaks,” Mike

the design process,” Mike Ferraro explains.

to join the home’s interior and exterior. A

explains. “From the foundation up, we use

“That allows us to provide a better repre-

bank of windows and glass doors across

construction techniques and materials that

sentation of cost way up stream. If you have

the back of the room brings the lake view

make your house tight and extremely

all the answers before the construction you

inside.

energy efficient." Care like that combined

will feel less anxious during the process.”

The open kitchen features frameless pale-

While gorgeous, the site wasn’t without

gray stained red oak cabinets by Wolverine

its challenges. “It had some interesting

Cabinet Company. The island mirrors the

constraints,” Mike says, adding that the

same mahogany-stained wood used in the

with the home’s timeless architecture makes this a true legacy home.

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 23

Complete Excavating Service RESIDENTIAL & COMMERCIAL

Family Owned and Operated • Basements • Bulldozing • Demolition • Grading • Top Soil • Drain Fields • Snow Removal

• Septic Systems • Land Clearing • Land Filling • Sand & Gravel • Water & Sewer Hookup

For All Your Excavating Call Alpers Today! alpersexcavating.com

231-943-4710

16 W. Silver Lake Road, S. Traverse City

24

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CURB APPEAL for every style & budget NorthernGarageDoors.com Traverse City  231-941-0381 Michigan’s Premier Garage Door Dealer

VISIT US

TO SEE THESE

STYLES

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AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE Nobody gives you a wider range of choices in handcrafted doors than Simpson Door Company. You choose the species, the glass, the design and the dimensions that are right for your project.

No matter what the style or budget, Simpson has something to offer, always backed by the reputation that has made them America’s door for nearly a century.

1480 S. West Bay Shore Dr. Suttons Bay, MI 49682 231-271-0010

1701 South Airport Rd. West Traverse City, MI 49686 231-947-1400

northernbuildingsupply.com TOUR HOME

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 25

design to live · build honestly

Ready ... Set ... Bake!

Our mission is to help you “feel @ home”!

231.252.4425

13709 S West Bay Shore Dr. www.trueblue-build.com / www.grand-tucket.com

808 South Garfield Avenue Suite B, Traverse City MI 49686 | 231.947.7040 www.homecabinetryandinteriors.com

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LOCATION 4739 WESTBROOK DRIVE TRAVERSE CITY CONTRACTOR TRUE BLUE & ASSOCIATES 231.252.4425 TRUEBLUE-BUILD.COM

modern farm house Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Dave Speckman

Homeowners

Nathan

and

Reno

remove them. The family, in fact, stores all

steel, and a built-in entertainment center

Greenwood, along with partners Charles

their shoes in a large built-in shoe closet

hidden behind handsome walnut doors.

Stockton and Kyle Swenor, have come

accessed by a handsome rolling door so

The bathroom has Carrera marble floors,

together to form True Blue & Associates,

there is no reason to ever have shoes in the

counters and wainscoting and features a

the firm that built this stunning home in

rest of the home.

rectangular soaking tub and a multi-head

a neighborhood off Cedar Run Road just

Shoes off, follow the sand-colored white

west of Traverse City. The five-bedroom

oak floors into the light-filled great room

home embodies True Blue’s philosophy of

with its soaring cathedral ceiling, banks of

A guest suite on this main floor offers

delivering high-end amenities at standard

black metal-framed European-style case-

walkout access to the pool and a darling

home prices—a goal the design-build firm

ment windows, dormer sky lights and black

bathroom with a basket weave tile floor.

accomplishes by providing everything from

metal-framed glass bifold doors that open

The lux touches continue on the lower

the architectural and interior design to

up to a spacious deck. Two walls clad in

level where a wet bar offers eight beer

products and finish elements.

shiplap and a white quartzite fireplace

taps, and a sauna and steam shower are

facade marry casual with elegant, a theme

just steps away. There are three bedrooms

furthered in an Edison bulb chandelier.

down here as well, a guest room and two

To see this home is to believe—right from the first steps through the front door

shower behind a seven-foot glass, easyglide glass door system.

into the slate-floored foyer where a hand-

The open kitchen is outfitted with white

children’s rooms that look like they are

some black steel-and-glass door system

custom cabinetry, a generous island topped

straight out of a storybook. On this level

allows a peek into the great room beyond.

in River White granite, Thor appliances and

you’ll also find the secret playroom (behind

The door functions to protect the great

a back splash clad in dove-gray handmade

doors disguised as shelves).

room from drafts when the front door

subway tile. A door in the kitchen leads to

opens. That’s a good thing, but the fact of

an outside pool.

the matter is: It’s just plain cool.

The master suite features a white brick

This is a shoes-off home (Reno is

and shiplap gas fireplace faced with a

Japanese) and to that end, the foyer is also

walnut mantel, a Reno-designed modern

outfitted with a well thought-out area to

take on a canopy bed fashioned from black

Chock-filled with elegant, fun and surprising touches, this home is one for the ages—exactly as True Blue intended it.

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 27

Giving You that Custom Look Giving You that Custom Look Without the Custom Price Without the Custom Price

Dura Supreme craftsmen take great pride in every cabinet they build. Our kitchen design center would be happy to show you various wood choices, door styles, and finishes to choose from... Call 231.325.4551

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800-444-6396 800-444-6396 800-262-5278 231-889-3456 231-889-3456 231-889-3456 FAX: FAX: 231-325-2115 231-325-2115 FAX: FAX: 231-889-3633 231-889-3633 FAX: 231-889-3633 FAX: 231-352-9562

1132 1132 Main Main Street Street Frankfort, Frankfort, MIMI 49635 49635

800-262-5278 800-262-5278

Family Owned Since 1963 FAX: FAX: 231-352-9562 231-352-9562

TOUR HOME

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 29

The easiest gift for the Northern Michigan lover, under $20!

Call for your FREE consultation right at home: Custom Closets

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231-668-9073

TailoredLiving.com/TraverseCity Closets • Garages • Garage Flooring Home Offices • Murphy Beds Pantries • Craft & Hobby Areas

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(OFFICE) 231-933-6680

www.WidingCustomHomes.com

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LOCATION 775 S. VILLAGE VIEW COURT SUTTONS BAY CONTRACTOR FERRARO GROUP 231.933.6089 FERRAROGROUP.NET

craftsman with a euro accent Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Jacqueline Southby

Brenda and Steve loved their 17 years

with American Disabilities Act—such as

Bordeaux River granite that tops the island

living and working in the alpine village

curbless showers, no step from garage

pulls together the room’s entire palette.

of Grainau, Germany, located at the foot

to house, making sure thresholds are

And not to be overlooked is the hand-

of the Zugspitze, but they always knew

smooth and that doorways and halls are

hewn fireplace mantle Mike made himself

they’d settle in Suttons Bay for retirement.

wide enough for wheelchairs, among other

expressly for the homeowners from a tree

Steve’s parents had lived there and conse-

things. The features, standard in a Ferraro-

he cut on their property.

quently they’d visited every summer. Steve

built home, were particularly important to

The back deck wraps from off the great

had even spent years sketching out their

the couple as they’d watched Steve’s aging

room to the master suite, offering an inspi-

dream retirement home—a design that he

father struggle in a difficult-to-navigate

rational view that rolls across the orchard

envisioned as a contemporary Craftsman.

home.

down to a generous sliver of blue bay on

When the time finally came to move back

The end product of plenty of thought,

the horizon.

to the states, the couple purchased this

skill and dedication on everyone’s part is

The master suite in this house has a

gorgeous, approximately four-acre, prop-

a stunning contemporary Craftsman with

particularly warm Old World feel, a tone

erty on an orchard-covered slope with a

a soft German accent. The facade is a

that is set just outside the door with an

view of West Grand Traverse Bay. On the

medley of sage siding trimmed in cream,

Italian hand-carved statue of the Madonna

March day in 2018 that the couple closed

stacked stone pedestals, tapered cedar-

and Child. A sweet pair of antique German

on it, Steve posed for a photo on the huge

colored columns and cedar shakes on the

chairs mixed with the couple’s family

boulder that still sits atop the hill, just feet

gables. Brick-colored trusses in the eaves

antiques accentuate that feeling. The

from where their new home would stand.

feel simultaneously Craftsman and alpine.

master bath continues the theme with

Mike Ferraro and his team at The Ferraro

Inside, mustard-colored walls, a dis-

Group proved to be the perfect partners for

tressed oak floor and subtly elegant white

stunning green Verde marble counters set

building the home. “We ended up being

coffered ceilings set a gracious, traditional

A charming guest suite rounds out the

friends after the project was completed,”

tone. The open kitchen is outfitted with

ground floor. The lower level houses two

Brenda says. “I’m not sure that happens

maple cabinetry and a maple-paneled

more guest rooms and a bath. This walkout

in the client/builder relationship all that

refrigerator. The island base is custom

level is also where the couple is creating a

often.”

off by a deep-toned cherry vanity.

painted a soft sage—a touch Ferraro

Gemütliches (meaning cozy niche)—the

Mike ensured the plans incorporated

arranged especially for Brenda. The soft

beginning of which is a massive tile wood-

features of Aging in Place and compliance

taupe, green and deep red-toned slab of

stove imported from Germany.

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 31

N a n t u c k e t

t o

S a n

F r a n c i s c o … ,

E d m o n t o n

t o

H o u s t o n

S H E P H E R D

R E S O U R C E S

I N C

/

A I A

S H E P H E R D

R aaErr Scc hhOii ttUee ccR tt Cuu rrEee S

I N C

/

A I A

aS rR IcA hR Ci Ht I eT EcC tT .uC rO eM 9 7 0

9 4 9

3 3 0 2

VIGNETTE® MODERN ROMAN SHADES

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Trend Window And Design 817 Bay St Traverse City, MI M-F: 9:00 am - 5:30 pm Sat: 10:00 am - 2:00 pm Sun: Closed 231-941-1241 www.trendwindowtc.com *Manufacturer’s mail-in rebate offer valid for qualifying purchases made 9/14/19–12/9/19 from participating dealers in the U.S. only. Rebate will be issued in the form of a prepaid reward card and mailed within 4 weeks of rebate claim approval. Funds do not expire. Subject to applicable law, a $2.00 monthly fee will be assessed against card balance 6 months after card issuance and each month thereafter.

See complete terms distributed with reward card. Additional limitations may apply. Ask participating dealer for details and rebate form. ©2019 Hunter Douglas. All rights reserved. All trademarks used herein are the property of Hunter Douglas or their respective owners. 19Q4MAGVIC2

32

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TOUR HOME

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 33

Because building a new home should be a deeply rewarding experience.

Scott Norris has been building breathtaking homes in the Greater Grand Traverse Area for over 30 years. Let Scott's team bring their experience, creativity, and unparalleled craftsmanship to your new home.

231.218.6849 • SNorrisConstruction.com

NO ONE LIKES COLD FLOORS. Lower energy bills and warm feet are just a few steps away.

– Crawl Space Repair – Foundation Repair – – Basement Waterproofing – Gutters & Gutter Protection –

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34

MyNorth.com

877-DRY-MICH | DryMich.com

LOCATION 7720 N. GERBER DRIVE NORTHPORT CONTRACTOR SCOTT NORRIS CONSTRUCTION 231.218.6849 SNORRISCONSTRUCTION.COM

natural gem Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Dave Speckman

Evy Elsing loves octagons. She can’t

slice of heaven atop a hill on the Leelanau

granite with its pattern that reads like a

explain why. This creative and accom-

Peninsula’s northern tip. For this property

grove of birch trees, this home is full of not-

plished woman, a renowned cellist, simply

he gave two thumbs up.

to-miss details. Tourgoers also won’t want

finds them interesting. She also loves

Working closely with Evy, Scott’s son,

to miss the inductive range (Evy loves it!);

nature—watching it out her windows and

designer Caleb Norris, developed a plan

the handmade tiles embossed with animal

bringing touches of it inside her home.

that captured the stunning West Grand

prints that Scott’s sister, Janet Bower, made

Scott Norris was the perfect contractor to

Traverse Bay view on one side and forests

especially for the home; and the handmade

build her retirement home.

and landscapes on the other. He also incor-

walnut table that Scott made.

Scott has made a name for himself as a

porated octagonal spaces—five of them

The home also features another Scott

skilled builder with an ear for listening to

to be exact, including the kitchen, master

Norris standard touch: a root (or wine)

his clients and an eye for determining the

bath, a library, music room and a loft for

cellar off the lower level made from utiliz-

best designs for their site. As he did for Evy,

taking in the view.

ing space created from the deck above it.

Scott will even evaluate a property for a

The exterior is clad in board-and-batten

The landscape is a dose of Zen in itself.

client before the property is purchased. He

painted a water-inspired blue and comple-

Outside, a small waterfall trickles down

is also known for the energy efficiency of

mented by natural bark siding. A cupola

to a pond that ends in that expansive

his homes and for his ability to stay within

complete with a weathervane rounds out

water view across the horizon. Trees and

a homeowner’s budget. For Evy, however,

this design that harmonizes with its water,

grape trellises paint a lush picture from

the deciding factor in choosing Scott is his

woods and agricultural site.

the screened-in porch on the back of the

care in working with a property's topogra-

The light-filled interior is warmed by

home—a view that will be especially rich

phy. “I chose Scott because he said he liked

honey-toned wood, all from Northern

to build things that look right in their site,”

Michigan—an oil finished white oak floor

Evy says of her experience building the

she says.

in October.

and Eastern white pine-clad vaulted ceiling

home: “It was so joyful.” Just like the home

Scott had already shared his hesita-

and beams. From the great blue heron

itself.

tions about building on several properties

etched into the front door (fabricated by

Evy had found when she showed him this

TC Mirror and Glass) to the island-top

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 35

TOUR HOME

36

MyNorth.com

TOUR HOME

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 37

New Residential Semi Custom & Custom Homes Photo by Maconochie Photography

“I believe a house is more a home by being a work of art.”

Frank Lloyd Wright

leelanauconstruction.com office@leelanauconstruction.com

Elk Rapids Northville 231.498.2500 248.515.4477 josephmoseyarchitecture.com

Maybe they’ll visit more …

Give a gift subscription of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine to your friends and family, and remind them what they are missing Up North, with stunning photography and awe-inspiring stories every month. … Because Everyone Loves Up North.

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1776 M-37 South, Traverse City

Phone: (231)943-3440 Fax: (231)943-3441 Email: Naturesedge1776@gmail.com

Granite, Marble, Quartz, Quartzite, Limestone, Onyx, and Soapstone Surfaces Professional Fabrication & Installation Free Estimates

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LOCATION 4803 E. WATERVIEW DRIVE LAKE LEELANAU CONTRACTOR LEELANAU CONSTRUCTION 231.715.9440 LEELANAUCONSTRUCTION.COM

modern mid-century Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Dave Speckman

Several years ago Chris and Paul Yezbak

When they found the plan they liked, the

window casings and a mix of cream-and-

joined some friends on a tour of Mid-

couple took it to Corey Flaska of Leelanau

walnut cabinetry. A gold glitter in the white

Century Modern architecture. They loved

Construction. Corey took their plan and

sands quartz waterfall-edge countertop

the style and had collected furniture from

tweaked it to meet both the Leelanau

and silver glitter grout in the octagonal-tile

the period for years. They got back home

building code and the Northern Michigan

backsplash add just the right touch of glam

to their humble bi-level in Traverse City—

weather conditions. That was the beginning

in this otherwise clean, fresh space.

their first home together and one that had

of a flawless contractor/client relationship

A yoga room off the great room looks

served them well—and thought. It’s time to

that the couple couldn’t be happier with.

out onto the pool, and the upstairs master

build our dream home.

“He is conscientious, great on Mid-Century

bedroom has summertime peeks of Lake

The couple started property hunting

communication, has a good price point,

Leelanau and Lake Michigan. Come winter,

around Traverse City, but look as they did,

has great follow-up, and any problems are

the water panorama is full blown.

they couldn’t find a site that suited both

addressed right away. It’s been our first

them and their budget. So they widened

build and wonderful,” Paul says.

Paul and Chris point to the small-butperfect deck off their master bedroom as a

their search radius to include Leelanau

No doubt, it is a home they can all be

spot-on example of how helpful Corey was

County, and one day came upon a devel-

proud of. Clad in charcoal-colored brick

in the building process. They knew they

opment just outside the village of Lake

and LP board-and-batten siding, and outfit-

wanted a deck but didn’t want to have the

Leelanau. They simply couldn’t believe

ted with deep eaves and black garage doors

cost or sight-line interruptions of load-

their eyes when they parked and strolled

with modern-style windows, the home is a

bearing posts descending to the ground.

up the windy knoll to the property that was

fresh take on Mid-Century Modern. Steps

Corey solved the issue by designing a

for sale. It was late fall, the leaves were off

inside the eight-foot-tall front door, the

balcony that is large enough for morning

the trees and the view of Lake Leelanau

great room rises to airy 12-foot ceilings.

coffee but small enough to obviate the need

across the horizon stunned them. With the

More light comes through a wall-sized bank

for supports. He used a glass railing to open

site solved, they scoured the internet for a

of windows that offers a wide-open view of

up views of the lake on the horizon, the

home plan that would capture their vision

the serene rolling landscape beyond—as

rolling hills in the foreground and their pool

for a Mid-Century Modern-style home.

well as the gemlike swimming pool on the

and terrace below—the final, heavenly

First, however, Paul sent his drone up to

terrace.

touch on the Yezbaks’ bit of bliss.

find out how high they needed to build to capture the best water views!

The interior is monochromatic walnut cortex floors, white walls and ceiling, black

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 39

NEVER BE COLD AGAIN!

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endurahomes.com | 231.218.5810

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MyNorth.com

TOUR HOME

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 41

TOUR HOME 42

MyNorth.com

LOCATION 592 S. MANITOU TRAIL LAKE LEELANAU CONTRACTOR J. PETERSON HOMES 231.994.2168 JOELPETERSONHOMES.COM

the new rustic Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by J.Zevalkink Photo

This home shows its diminutive side

way the sunsets moved west across Good

clad vaulted ceiling and down to the honey-

from the road. Just the way Brittany Poll

Harbor Bay as the summer progressed, and

colored white oak floors. The same buff

envisioned it. From the lake side, however,

noting how that would affect the design of

rock that is used on the exterior faces the

where it drops down to a walk-out ground

their home.

fireplace and chimney.

floor, you understand that it is large

When the couple did build, it was with

Keenly aware that the great room was

enough to accommodate the many friends

a first-class team featuring contractor Joel

meant for relaxed entertaining, Paige

and family of Brittany and her husband,

Peterson of J. Peterson Homes. The Polls

worked with Brittany to keep the open

Philip. That’s just the way he wanted it.

can’t say enough about Peterson’s pro-

kitchen streamlined, efficient and durable.

Call it a perfect compromise. The interior,

fessionalism and knowledge of building

A generous island topped in Aurea Stone

however, is all about collaboration between

in Northern Michigan. They also enjoyed

(a quartz that resembles marble) is outfit-

this husband and wife, both of whom have

working with Principal architect Mark Ours

ted with a farm sink and room for six bar

keen, spot-on vision for architecture and

and his associate CJ Andrews of the Ohio-

stools. Inset kitchen cabinetry is painted

interior style. Brittany, in fact, recently

based firm MODE Architects—a team that

with Benjamin Moore’s Silver Strand;

launched her own interior design business,

captured their vision for a new take on a

glossy white subway tiles, brass hardware

Will + Blu.

modern cottage. Finally, they credit Paige

and pendant lights round out the space.

The Polls are both from Ohio, but Philip

Maurer of Paige Lee Designs with helping

The rest of the home plays out the

summered in Northern Michigan while he

them fulfill their vision for the fresh, rustic

relaxed style with surprise touches like a

was growing up. The first time he brought

interior.

refurbished (by Philip) antique clawfoot

Brittany here, she fell in love with the area

The facade is a crisp mix of buff-colored

tub, fun tile in the bathroom and cool

as well. The couple was married in Omena

natural Michigan stone with white board-

reclaimed pieces that Philip and Brittany

and their search for the perfect summer

and-batten siding, black-framed windows

have picked up on their travels. The walkout

home started soon after the wedding.

and a raw galvalume roof. Walk inside

level, outfitted with guest rooms, has a

When they found this perch over Good

and the monochromatic palette allows the

zero-maintenance polished cement floor

Harbor Bay, just south of Leland, they

azure waters of Good Harbor—with the

and (want-want!) a fabulous indoor/

knew they’d found their piece of the North.

Manitou Islands on the horizon—to steal

outdoor bar that makes ordering up a cold

For several summers before they built, the

the show. Look closer, however, and you’ll

one from the beach as organically easy as

couple camped on the property to get a feel

notice a purposeful and refined sense of

this inspirational home.

for it—observing, among other things, the

design right up to the white nickel-board

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 43

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LOCATION VANTAGE POINT #5 THE HOMESTEAD 1 WOODRIDGE ROAD GLEN ARBOR CONTRACTOR/DESIGNER KITCHEN CHOREOGRAPHY 231.932.9700 KITCHENCHOREOGRAPHY.NET

family condo, the next gen Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Jason Hulet

Pam Pierce grew up coming to The

efficiently—changes that begin in the entry

makeover with generously spaced spin-

Homestead. Her parents rented first, then

where cut-stone flooring takes the place of

dles—again to allow the lake view from the

purchased a condo and later, in the 1980s,

linoleum and a formerly under-used alcove

front windows to be visible even from the

they exchanged it for this condo in the then

now houses a boot bench and coat hooks

steps. Just as clever is a triangular piece of

brand-new Vantage Pointe units at the

set into the beadboard wall. A maple floor

glass set into the wall of the staircase to

tippy-top of a ridge. The view from the unit

stained a silvery gray replaces carpet and

the lower level that lets in light from the

is spectacular—overlooking Sleeping Bear

linoleum throughout the rest of the ground

living room.

Bay, Sleeping Bear Point and the Manitou

floor. A half-wall between the entry and the

New creamy-white interior doors with

Islands. On a clear day you can even see the

kitchen was removed to make room for a

four inset panels and oil-rubbed bronze

shipwrecked freighter, the Morazan, whose

banquette and also for a kitchen island.

hardware, custom white-painted built-ins

great hulking hull has marked the south-

Laminate countertops were exchanged

next to the fireplace and creamy-white

west end of South Manitou Island since it

for Berwyn Cambria Quartz countertops

upholstery with blue accents complete this

went down in the early 1960s.

and gracious, solid creamy-white cabinetry

home’s fresh traditional style. Equally

replaced former apartment-style cabinets.

refreshing are the words Pam uses to

When Pam and her husband, Bruce, purchased the condo from the family in

Other smart moves included removing

describe working with Kitchen Chor-

2017, the interior was still vintage late

a bank of cabinets in the loft and replacing

eography. “Perfect,” she says. “They did

1980s—fun and relaxed but a bit chopped

them with a glass half-wall, opening up the

everything I asked. Angela saw my vision

up and very much in need of an update.

gorgeous bay view through the first-floor

and made it happen. She made an over-

For a top-to-bottom redo, they turned to

transom windows. Kitchen Choreography

whelming project, not overwhelming.”

Angela Goodall and her talented team at

redid all of the bathrooms, including the

Kitchen Choreography.

master bathroom which was completely

The finished product is a light-filled

refigured to make room for a new lux

home with every ounce of space used

shower. The staircase received a railing

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 49

Angela Goodall is the lead designer and co-owner of Kitchen Choreography with her husband Mike.

the

Sky’s the limit

In the newest of designs where less clutter and a more monochromatic color palettes are taking center stage, the opportunities for design may lie just above your head. Look to your ceiling or shall we say, your fifth wall?

Still popular in our area is a traditional beam or coffered ceiling detail to add a contrast in color and/or texture to the room. The spaces between the coffers may be painted the wall color or even a shade darker to add contrast to the trim elements of the coffer. If beams enter the picture, they may be a rustic element meant to warm up a more modern space.

Using a true barn wood or distressed wood detail would serve to add some texture. How about adding ship lap just in the center of those beams to create a centered focal point to the room as a whole? In most spaces I design, if the ceiling is not treated any differently than the surrounding

walls, i.e. wall board, why should it be painted a different color. To keep with a simplistic design, simply painting the ceiling the same color as the walls will introduce a more updated look. What about painting the ceiling a soft shade of blue or green? When you look across your room at our beautiful natural surroundings, the color connects the interior to the exterior. Ceiling becomes sky. Oh yes, and wallpaper or faux finish for a Powder Bath ceiling, always a must! Don’t be afraid, go for it! And introduce a special light fixture to make the space unique. Your guests will love the surprise when they go in and close the door.

So be adventurous! Look above you in a different light and add some detail to one of the biggest surfaces in your home. ~ angela goodall ~

420 South Division Street, Traverse City, Michigan 49684 www.KitchenChoreography.net 231.932.9700

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OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 51

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LOCATION 5705 S LAKE ST GLEN ARBOR PROPERTY MANAGEMENT AND RENTALS BIRCHWOOD PROPERTY MANAGEMENT 231.242.1818 RENTALS AND RESERVATIONS HOLIDAY VACATION RENTALS 231.242.0730 HOLIDAYVACATIONRENTAL.COM

the new le bear Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Holiday Vacation Rentals

The 14 residences that make up Le Bear

nothing that would compromise the view

major audio-visual upgrades that include

Resort in downtown Glen Arbor are 15

and to maintain the same standard of

surround sound, Bose speakers and 4K

years old now. When they were built, the

excellence that Le Bear fans have come to

smart-televisions.

Cape Cod-style buildings, set smack on

know.

Silvery shades of bedding in the master

world-class beautiful Sleeping Bear Bay,

“The Le Bear brand, defined as ‘cre-

suites reflect the full prism from morning

marked a new level of luxury within the

ating life-long memories’ guided Studio

light to evening sunsets—and a large wall

village’s downtown. Their interior decor

H2G in creating a guest experience one

mirror assures that the view floods the

was a then-popular Tuscan-Up North

would expect from a first-class Northern

room.

style, heavy on the warm golds and rich

Michigan luxury resort,” Nick explains.

burgundies.

Two decades later, it was time for a change. With Birchwood Property Man-

Curated dashes of the former interior

“We defined the ambiance as natural,

remain such as an antler chandelier, folk-

elegant and timeless with a casual Up

art breakfast nook tables by Sticks Object

North sophistication.”

Art & Furniture (long sold at a Glen Arbor

agement at the helm, plans for the trans-

One year after the planning began, the

boutique) and sculptures of the Mama

formation of the property began. But how

new Le Bear interiors glow with a relaxed,

Bear and her Cubs from the Sleeping Bear

to please the many fractional owners and

contemporary elegance. Shades of pale

legend.

legions of devoted renters who make up

gray in the carpet and furniture allow the

If you’ve ever visited Le Bear, if you’ve

the Le Bear community? Enter designer

Caribbean-colors of Sleeping Bear Bay to

ever dreamed of staying there (and who

Nick Giammarco, principal of Studio H2G

shine in an eye-dazzling display. The former

hasn’t?!), this sophisticated remodel is a

who happens to be both a Le Bear owner

draperies have been replaced by privacy

must-see.

and board member. From the get-go, Nick

shades that further open up the view. The

knew the two fundamental precepts that

behind-the-scenes changes were just as

would guide the remodel were to do

important—new lighting throughout and

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 53

TOUR HOME

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OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 55

TIME TO COME HOME

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LOCATION 5882 S. LAKE STREET GLEN ARBOR CONTRACTOR WAYNE TYGE 231.645.9896 WAYNETYGEBUILDER.COM

beautiful day in this neighborhood Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Dave Speckman

Disclaimer. I live across the street from

fond that when Ginny and Mike decided

a plan that initially called for one-and-

this house and watched the For Sale sign

to purchase their own place Up North,

a-half baths—the half bath being off the

go up last summer on what was a wooded

their daughters and the rest of the family

kitchen. The only place for the full bath

lot. Then I watched the sign go down. Next,

agreed that downtown Glen Arbor was

on the ground floor was under the steps, a

up went the builder’s sign … like anyone

where they wanted it to be. So Mike gave

space that was to house the HVAC system.

else who loves their daily view I watched

their Realtor, Pam Depuy of The Martin

Wayne somehow (magic?) found another

with bated breath wondering, What would

Company, a simple direction: “Find us a lot

place for the HVAC and the Thomases got

be built in my kitchen window’s sight line.

close enough for grandchildren to go get ice

their full bath.

Would it fit in with our little lakeside town

cream by themselves.”

that is scattered with small clapboard turnof-the-last-century buildings?

Another space saver was Mike’s insis-

When Pam delivered with this narrow

tence that they remove a walk-in pantry

lot within walking distance of four places

from the plan: “An Up North home doesn’t

My new neighbors, Ginny and Mike

to buy ice cream, the Thomases purchased

need more than a week’s worth of food,”

Thomas, nailed it. The diminutive white

it and began the search for a small, efficient

he says. True, especially with Anderson’s

board-and-batten modern farmhouse looks

design that would cozy into it. They found

Market across the street.

completely at home in Glen Arbor—a point

the blueprint online—first attracted by its

The resulting three-bedroom floor plan

that was important to the couple from the

small footprint and many windows—then

feels open and airy—an ambiance accom-

get-go. “We really wanted to build some-

worked with their builder, Wayne Tyge,

plished by the many lovely, black casement

thing that fit in,” Mike says.

to customize it to their needs. “Wayne is a

windows and an open great room outfitted

Having spent many summers on Glen

hands-on builder,” Ginny says. “He’s incred-

with a natural-colored white oak floor,

Lake with Ginny’s sister and her family, the

ibly accessible, creative and a problem

white kitchen cabinets, white quartz coun-

Thomases had grown fond of the petite,

solver. He told us things we hadn’t thought

ters and a pretty tiled fireplace the color of

two-intersection town with its two quiet

of and he was always open to suggestions.”

Sleeping Bear Bay.

roads that lead to small public beaches

One of the biggest conundrums Wayne

on Lake Michigan’s Sleeping Bear Bay. So

solved was how to fit two full baths into

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 57

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Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 59

LOCATION 7819 W. DAY FOREST ROAD EMPIRE CONTRACTOR MAPLERIDGE CONSTRUCTION 231.642.5775 MAPLERIDGE.US

northwoods elegance Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Dave Speckman

The homeowners, longtime residents

The skilled carpenters at Mapleridge con-

drawer). That space in turn flows into the

of Chicago, had visited friends on Glen

structed the custom built-ins based on

laundry room and a closed-in vestibule

Lake for years—often stopping by on their

drawings from the homeowner, as well as

between the separated but connected

return trip from sailing in the Chicago to

two half barn-style doors above the mantel

guest quarters.

Mackinac Yacht Race. When a lot went

that close to cover the 75-inch television.

On the opposite side of the kitchen, a

up for sale a couple of doors down from

The wealth of molding and details such as

cozy banquette in the corner offers more

their friends’ home, they knew it was time

cherry beams, window casings and cherry

space for gathering. An adjacent glassed-

to own their own piece of beautiful Glen

stair system are further testaments to the

in porch with a fireplace continues the

Lake. Working with the skilled team at

quality of Mapleridge’s workmanship.

relaxing spaces. The master suite located

Mapleridge Construction, they built this

Angela Goodall of Kitchen Choreography

across the terrace from this four-season

handsome home that rests perfectly into

stepped in to assist in the design of this

porch is a true standout with a shiplap

its site.

incredible kitchen that begs for making

ceiling painted peppercorn gray and butter

The classic floor plan consists of a great

big, beautiful meals for friends and family.

cream shiplap walls. Extra long windows

room flanked by wings on each side that

The kitchen revolves around a generous

bring in the leafy lake setting. The master

embrace a terrace and the lake view—

6-by-10-foot island topped in marble-style

bath is understatedly elegant with a bank

simple and simply perfect for lakeside

quartz with a cherry base. Besides seating

of custom pewter-colored cabinets sur-

living. The couple channeled a hint of New

six, the island houses an apron sink, two

rounding the vanity, touches of marble and

England by cladding the exterior in stacked

dishwasher drawers and refrigerated bever-

a free-standing soaking tub.

natural stone and shake, and then paving

age doors. Kitchen Choreography designed

This is a remarkable house from start to

the generous front porch and equally

and fabricated the custom oil-rubbed

finish—right down to the dogs’ suite. When

generous terrace in bluestone—a rustic,

bronze hood that complements the oil-

it’s downtime, Bella and Bailey retire to

elegant look that lives comfortably any-

rubbed bronze lighting fixtures.

their suite under the stairs in the closed-in

where in the Northwoods.

In an uber-efficient design, the kitchen

vestibule. Gated off with the same wrought

The great room’s stacked stone fireplace,

flows into a prep space (outfitted with

iron spindles used in the staircase, it was

and floor made of six-inch hickory planks,

a vegetable sink, dishwasher, prep sink,

customized just for them by Mapleridge.

speak Up North with a genteel accent.

convection/steam oven and microwave

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘19

NHC 61

TOUR HOME

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BAYFRONT LOTS. FOR SALE.

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Dining RESTAURANT GUIDE | LOCAL TABLE | DRINKS

TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU | PHOTO BY LISA SCHROEDER-CONFER

DRIVE TO DINNER

ROCK’S LANDING | 1577 CRYSTAL DRIVE, FRANKFORT | 231.399.0158 As fall sets fire to the maples lining Crystal Lake, summer’s memory still abides in crystalline blue water lapping beside the patio and the electric palette of a panzanella salad studded with late season tomatoes and candy-striped beets from Lost Lake Farm. Housed in a reimagined 1950’s beach snack bar at the centenary Chimney Corners Resort, Rock’s Landing is the vision of restaurant entrepreneurs Steve and Kristin Tebo, partnered with sister Julie Tebo, her husband Paul Danes and Chef Joe Meyers. Tebo and Meyers bring pan-Mediterranean

flavors to the seasonal flow of Northern Michigan produce found in dishes like roasted baby cauliflower with pine nuts, za’atar and lemon-tahini sauce or pinchos murunos: grilled Spanish pork skewers with Moorish spice rub. Autumn flavors assert themselves in the form of nutmeg-laced ricotta gnocchi with roasted squash and wilted fall greens or crispy arancini in rich pork ragout. Read on this month as we get the dish on Rock’s Landing and travel leafy country highways to some of the North’s best fall destination dining.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT '19

57

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color tour | dining

FOODIE FILE

Steve Tebo CO-OWNER, ROCK’S LANDING, FRANKFORT

Steve and Kristin Tebo left Chicago careers in tech marketing and retail management consulting to bring creative, locally sourced cuisine to the Frankfort food scene. After selling Coho Cafe in 2011, Steve ran the food program at Chimney Corners Resort for 7 years before the couple opened Rock’s Landing at the resort’s former beach house property in 2018.

our seasonal produce comes directly from Lost Lake Farm and all the bread products used on the menu are custom baked for us at Crescent Bakery in downtown Frankfort.

Does Rock’s Landing have a signature dish?

I’d be happy if everyone who ate here started with our panzanella salad. Everything in it is picked from within 12 miles of the restaurant and it encapsulates our mission of reimagining local ingredients through a Mediterranean lens. Our ricotta gnocchi is another staple whose components change to match the season.

Your dining room is literally three steps from the water, how does that shape the experience at Rock’s?

It’s one of our great advantages—every seat on the porch has a panoramic view of Crystal Lake which is close enough to drop a fork in. We don’t have a dock but guests frequently anchor their boats off shore or even arrive by floatplane.

What does fall make you hungry for?

Arancini with sausage ragout. We break down big cuts of organic Michigan hogs and Chef Joe uses the trimmings to make Italian sausage that gets simmered for hours with tomatoes and aromatics and then served over panko-crusted risotto balls.

How is Benzie County showcased on the menu?

Growing a strong local food economy is important to us so we source the vast majority of our proteins, dairy and grains from local purveyors through Cherry Capital Foods. Most of

Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com. // Dave Weidner is a freelance photographer based in Traverse City. dweidnerphoto@gmail.com.

THE ROWE INN

TOP PHOTO BY LISA SCHROEDER-CONFER // BOTTOM PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

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THE NEW YORK 101 STATE STREET, HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.1904

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT '19

59

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local table | dining

JIM’S JOINT BBQ | 10914 US 31 HONOR | 231.227.1227 hug and platters heavy with his succulent, excellent smoked brisket and pork.

Consider upping your football-season potluck game with meat by the pound (Jim’s rule of thumb: one pound of meat for every three people). The ribs—dry-rubbed and glazed—truly need no adornment but if you’re feeling saucy we recommend the Benzie Burn...just the right heat to remind you it’s good to be alive. The corncakes (a riff on the Midwestern delight that is Jiffy Corn Casserole) and potato salad are the stars of the sides. —Emily Tyra

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

He’s a pitmaster. He’s a people person. He’s Jim and this is his joint. Jim Johnson and pitboss, Susan Johnson, began in the barbeque biz in Lansing back in ’97 and continue their own brand of “no rules, no region” smoky magic today in downtown Honor.

A giant hand-hewn wooden flag right inside the eatery’s door is emblazoned with the words “honor one another.”

A motto Jim seems to live by as he welcomes his family of guests—parents with hungry teens, fishermen right off the river, locals on lunch break—with light teasing, an occasional

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT '19

61

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RESTAURANT GUIDE Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants at MyNorth.com/Restaurants | WATER VIEW BLD | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER BAR | ALCOHOL SERVED $ | ENTRÉES INDER $10 $$ | $10-20 $$$ | ABOVE $20

PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/INDIAN RIVER Dutch Oven Café and Deli French toast and farmers omelet stratas, sandwiches on famous homemade bread. BL •

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR •

Pelican's Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads and homemade desserts. D • BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY,

$-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and an evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321 Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR • $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800

Roast & Toast Hip coffeehouse with daily house-made soups, bread, bakery items and salads. On-site coffee roasting.

A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. BLD • $ 309 E. LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767

Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick oven pizzeria. BL • $ 3393 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.1230 Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. LD • BAR • $ 1200 N. U.S. 31, PETOSKEY, 231. 347.9291

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with a big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771 Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with a wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD

$ 7611 U.S. 31, ALANSON, 231.548.2231

• BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on the Bay Harbor marina. B • $ 4165 MAIN STREET, BAY Original Pancake House Crepes, waffles, pancakes, omelettes, egg specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$ 840 FRONT ST., BAY

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201 Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $

HARBOR, 231.439.2770

422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

Vintage Chophouse/ Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. D • BAR • $$ 1549 GLENDALE, PETOSKEY,

HARBOR, 231.439.9989

INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlifedecorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.9471

CROSS VILLAGE/HARBOR SPRINGS/ PELLSTON/PETOSKEY Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. LD • BAR $-$$$

231.347.2410

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900

Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and handrolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

NEW Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American cui-

sine with global wine and craft cocktail bar. D • BAR • $$ 129 EAST BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.412.6032

231.753.2221

The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes, home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. BL • $ 423 MICHIGAN ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.5583

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients.

Seminole Pub. BLD • BAR • $–$$ 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3000

Chandler’s Brick-walled and -floored dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to savor this art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. LD • $ 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250

Stiggs Brewery Hand-crafted brews, from-scratch food like whitefish cakes, bourbon chicken sandwich, top sirloin wagyu steak. LD • BAR $-$$ 112 S. PARK ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6100 Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cuisine at Shanty Creek Resort with a view of Lake Bellaire. Breakfast, lunch & dinner. The River Bistro—Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, Lunch, (spring-fall) Ivan’s Mountainside Gril—Schuss Village-Pub food. BLD • BAR 1 SHANTY CREEK RD. (M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD • BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

NEW Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contempo-

rary American food with a focus on local ingredients. D • BAR • $$ 213 N BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301

Torch Riviera Pasta, seafood, steaks, ribs, pizza. D • BAR • $$ 12899 CHERRY AVE., RAPID CITY, 231.322.4100

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D

• BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999

CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/ EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. D L • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

The Cantina Tacos and tequila with indoor and outdoor seating. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 VAN PELT PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3612

Charlevoix Pizza Company Scratch-made dough, fresh ingredients, golden crust, prepared daily. Plus, cheesy bread and wings. LD • $-$$ 311 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6300 East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling technique in this specialty food and wine shop. D • $-$$$ That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Grey Gables Inn Graceful, intimate, Victorian atmosphere across from the harbor. D • BAR • $–$$$ 308 BELVEDERE, CHAR-

CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/WALLOON Boyne City Taproom Craft beer, wood-fired pizzas, wraps, burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 220 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.459.4487 Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge—Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern— American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 Corner Bistro French-inspired small plates, classic cocktails, wine, beer, Sunday brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 102 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7344

Friske Orchards Cafe Cheerful roadside restaurant features farm-fresh breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and a bakery. BL • $ 10743 U.S. 31 S., ATWOOD, 231.599.2604 Lake Street Pub American pub with outdoor patio and firepit, BYO mac ‘n’ cheese, cocktails, 26 beers on tap. LD • $ 202 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6031

231.582.0049

12853 U.S. 31 N., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300

04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY,

CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

LEVOIX, 231.547.9261

Lake Charlevoix Brewing Co. Craft brewery with good eats—grilled cheese sammies, tacos, quesadillas and beef jerky. LD • BAR • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE PARK DR., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3220

Pigs Eatin’ Ribs Real smokehouse with mouthwatering BBQ. Weekend breakfast. BLD • $-$$ 1418 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7447

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E. JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food. LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with a massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel. LD • BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D • BAR

• $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

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OCT '19

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OCT '19

65

dining | restaurant guide

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA

4990 US31 N, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.599.1111

Boone Dock’s Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444 Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff. LD •

Villager Pub ’50s atmosphere, whitefish, Mexican, ribs, sandwiches and pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHAR-

NEW Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers,

231.275.6401

Torch Lake Cafe Inventive, ultra-fresh cuisine with sharable options like the seafood platter with black garlic butter. Or devour an elevated fried bologna sandwich with pickled green tomato and house Dijon all on your own... BLD • BAR • $-$$$

LEVOIX, 231.547.6925

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING/MANCELONA Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. LD • $ 147 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901

Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in a wine bar on the Elk River. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9000

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better. BL • $$ 145 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively zydeco, jazz and blues. LD • BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530

Siren Hall Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, fresh-off-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 151 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231. 264.6062

Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting. Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3917 SOUTH OLD 27, GAYLORD, 989.732.9288

Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. LD • BAR 227 E MICHIGAN AVE., GRAYLING, 989.745.6388

Spike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since 1933. LD • BAR $ 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113 Tap Room 32 Twenty handles of Michigan craft beers and a menu of modern brew-friendly vittles like truffle fries and Korean beef tacos. D • $$ 141 NORTH COURT AVE., GAYLORD, 989.748.8552

The Old Depot 1900s train depot features homestyle burgers, steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. BLD • $$ 10826 M-32 E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115

Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. BLD • BAR • $$-$$$ 216 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5524

BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688

hand-cut fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling in the winter. LD • BAR • $ 172 W BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869

Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches, pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.9912

Fig's Sandwiches, breakfasts, salads homemade with local ingredients. Great selection of vegetarian dishes. BL • $$ 202 Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season.

LD • BAR • $ 7144 N. M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MCFARLANE, MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10844 E REVOLD RD., SUTTONS BAY, 231.944.1297

The Homestead Nonna’s Restaurant—Classically inspired, contemporary Italian cuisine. D • BAR $$-$$$ Beppi’s Sports Bar—Hand-tossed pizzas, paninis and salads. D • BAR • $-$$ 1 WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000

Hop Lot Brewing Co. Family-friendly microbrewery with four-season patio and games serving ribs, tacos, wings and a s’more kit to top it all off. LD • BAR • $-$$ 658 S WEST-BAY SHORE DR., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4445

Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$ 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019 BAY

$-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

Blu Exquisite regional cuisine from chef Randy Chamberlain in an intimate setting on Sleeping Bear Bay. D • BAR • $$$$ LAKE ST., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.2530

The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927. Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the off-season. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081 Big Cat Brewing Company Casual brewery serving comfort food classics including pot roast, French toast and Grandma Ackley’s Carrot Cake. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 8699 S. GOOD HARBOR TR., CEDAR, 231.228.2282

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2784 M-137, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6979

OLD MISSION PENINSULA Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. LD • BAR • $$ 13512 OLD PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, locally sourced fare and craft cocktails. D THURSDAY,

FRIDAY & SATURDAY 5PM–9PM • BAR • $-$$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4222

Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials. LD • BAR • $$ 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.7280

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY Alliance James Beard-nominee Pete Peterson teams with upand-coming chef James Bloomfield at this Warehouse District bistro. LD • BAR • $-$$ 144 HALL ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5545 Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch.

LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with fromscratch farmer food. and Michigan-crafted beers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE,

FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

Bu-Shi Gourmet burgers. Fresh sushi. One place. LD • BAR •

231.334.3944

$-$$ 531 W. FRONT ST., 231.252.3086

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR •

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-$$$

$ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch, including some gluten free dishes and pastries. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413

420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and lunch. BL • $-$$ 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza.

Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. BLD • BAR •

LOCHEN, 231.275.3005

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads and tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E.

Shirley’s Café An ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. BLD • $

LEELANAU COUNTY

Dilbert’s Soups, sandwiches, omelets and other home cooking served in a homey atmosphere. BLD • $ 11303 U.S. 31, INTER-

SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

528 S. WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210

Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout and so much more. LD BAR • $-$$ 10586 US31, INTERLOCHEN,

WEST MAIN STREET, LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.7720

Treetops Sylvan Resort Hunters Grille, & Sports Bar. Steak, burgers, ribs, pasta, signature pizza, chicken, fish and glutenfree selections. Featuring a selection of 100 Michigan craft beer, wines, fabulous martinis. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ WILKINSON RD., GAYLORD, 800.444.6711

INTERLOCHEN

North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR • $$

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast—all done well. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6692

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, breakfast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers share the menu.

BLD • $ 110 E. NAGONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055

Tucker’s of Northport Bistro-style casual fine dining featuring fresh, local whitefish, Great Lakes perch, cioppino, housesmoked ribs and wings, hand-pattied Angus burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 116 WAUKAZOO, NORTHPORT, 231.386.1061

Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. LD • BAR • $$ 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231.

334.3362

Wren Contemporary comfort food and a constantly changing menu to feature locally sourced ingredients. D • BAR • $$ 303 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.1175

115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. BLD • $ 129 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. LD • BAR • $ 108 S. UNION, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

The Franklin Hip downtown eatery featuring flatbread, salads, lamb and beef burgers, bistro dinners. Fabulous wine, craft beer, hard cider and perry. LD • BAR • $-$$ 160 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2727

Georgina’s Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 236 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1555

NEW The Good Bowl Fresh, authentic Vietnamese eatery.

Donates $1 for every bowl to the charity of your choice. LD • BAR $-$$ 328 E FRONT ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662

The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads. BL • $ 115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. BL • $ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437

Harvest In brand new expanded location, local foods hip spot. LD • $ 136 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.486.6037 Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR • $$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100

restaurant guide | dining Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2793

Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST.,

Smoke and Porter Public House An American smokehouse wherefarm-to-tableandwholebeastbutcherymeetthefirepits.r.

Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers sandwiches. BLD • $-$$

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,

CADILLAC

231.534.8888

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, wellaged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelets, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. BLD • $ 124 CASS, 231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991 Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted wood-fired flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. LD • BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now at a new location. BAR • $ 225 E. 16 ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1239

Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD • $-$$$

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY,

Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. LD • BAR • $$

237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9645

231.941.7632

Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer.

LD • BAR • $$ 229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh, sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips Ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700 Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (including European Trappist ales) with your burger and lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4807

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Sugar 2 Salt Traverse City's hot brunch spot serves up what is in season. B • $-$$ 1371 GRAY DR., SUITE 300, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.409.8382

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500 The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.090

Thirsty Fish Sports Grille Family-friendly sports bar with seafood, burgers, steaks, pasta and a 600-gallon fish tank.

Live music on the patio. LD • BAR • $-$$ 221 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1165

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST Don’s Drive In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. LD • $ 2030 U.S. 31 N., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.1860

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends.

D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000

Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-can-eat cod. BLD • $ 1103 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

Reflect Bistro and Lounge at Cambria Suites Hotel Breakfast, dinner and Happy Hour 4-7 p.m. daily. BD • BAR • $-$$$ 255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000

Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. BL • $ 304 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5461

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH

Pangea’s Pizza Pub Craft pies, creative toppings. LD • BAR $-$$ 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800

245 S BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250

LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020

13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

Nada’s Gourmet Deli & Mediterranean Cuisine Authentic hummus, tabbouleh, chicken shawarma, falafel, the best baklava in Traverse City. LD • $ 542 W FRONT ST, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.6779

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • $$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960

Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., ST. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4648

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$ 717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

The Silver Swan Ethnic fare and killer desserts. LD • $ 13692 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203

Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. BLD • $ 1333 YELLOW DR., TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.8989

West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay.

LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an alpenhaus-style dining room. LD • BAR • $$ 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563

Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks. LD • BAR • $ 1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575

Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club–style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. LD • BAR • $$ 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5332

Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting. LD • BAR • $ 523 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399 Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1100 28TH ST., MANISTEE, 231.723.8000

The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. D • $-$$ 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843

Dinghy’s Local favorite for 25 years with house-smoked meats including famous ribs, half-pound burger, Big BLT, award-winning Friday fish fry. LD • BAR • $$ 415 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4702

The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and wood-fired pizzas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients. LD• BAR • $-$$ 318 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4121

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114

Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn. BLD • $-$$$ 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090

L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $-$$ 325 MAIN STREET, FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. LD • BAR $-$$ 515 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9136

North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the drawbridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with meats smoked daily and excellent craft beers on tap. LD • BAR $-$$ 86 WASHINGTON ST, MANISTEE, 231.299.1020

BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC

NEW Rock's Landing

BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/THOMPSONVILLE Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Wood-paneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites. BLD

Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with ethnic influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. D • BAR $$ 1157 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken, pizza, soups, salads. LD • BAR • $ 14848 THOMPSON AVE., THOMPSON-

Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Tavo and Tarrah Hernandez turned their food truck into a restaurant dream-come-true with ultra-fresh tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas. LD • BAR

Lucky Dog Bar and Grille Burgers, smoked wings, brats, sandwiches, craft beer, cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S. BENZIE

Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib pasta , whitefish, craft beer, regional wines. LD • BAR

Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere.

Steaks, Italian, Mexican. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 10921 MAIN ST., HONOR,

T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for panini, mex and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. LD • BAR •

• BAR • $-$$ M-115, THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000

VILLE, 231.378.2554

BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499

231.227.1200

• $-$$ 344 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4441

• $-$$ 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751

$ 99 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174

The Roadhouse Fresh Mex with a cool cantina atmosphere.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US 31), BENZONIA, 231.882.9631

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT '19

67

DAN STEWART PHOTOGRAPHY

Red Hot

Best

2019 Winner MyNorth is the home of Traverse Magazine

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• OPEN 7 DAYS FOR LUNCH & DINNER • ••OPEN FOR LUNCH DINNER OPEN 77 DAYS DAYS FOR LUNCH &&DINNER • COVERED OUTDOOR PATIO & BAR • • ••COVERED OUTDOOR PATIO•&&BAR BAR• • COVERED OUTDOOR PATIO • LIVE ENTERTAINMENT ••• LIVE ENTERTAINMENT LIVE ENTERTAINMENT FAMILY FRIENDLY • •• •• FAMILY FRIENDLY•• FAMILY FRIENDLY TheFillingStationMicrobrewery.com TheFillingStationMicrobrewery.com TheFillingStationMicrobrewery.com 642 Railroad Place, Traverse City 642 Railroad Railroad Traverse 642 Place, TraverseCity City (231) Place, 946-8168 (231) 946-8168 (231) 946-8168

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wine | drinks

ORANGE WINE From their ancient origins in the clay amphorae of the Caucasus, orange wines have arrived Up North to smash the autumn duopoly long held by maple trees and pumpkin patches. Orange wines, also known as amber wines or ramato, are so dubbed for the color transfer incurred when white grapes are fermented on their skins.

The grapes varieties being used—in our case riesling, chardonnay or pinot gris—and the length of exposure between skin and juice spins off a color spectrum arcing from pale amber to deep copper. Our local orange wines are dry on the palate and retain the electric acids of their parent grapes but pick up tannins from the skins and seeds that give them a richness and texture akin to lighter red wines like gamay or pinot noir. Aromatically, the wines channel apricot, persimmon, wildflower honey and dried citrus peel, making them ideal pairings for fall flavors like squash, game birds and wild mushrooms. —Tim Tebeau

FEATURED WINES

Local vignerons are letting white wines soak on their skins to delectable effect. Check out these orange wine offerings.

BLACK STAR FARMS ROSÉ OF PINOT GRIS 2017 Pink-hued and front-loaded with soft strawberry and melon, Black Star’s Wine Club Selection bottling straddles the border between amber wine and rosé with a soupcon of sweetness in the finish.

45 NORTH SKIN FERMENT CHARDONNAY 2017 A 22-day soak on the skins and 8 months in oak give the chardonnay from 45 North’s new Skin Ferment Series heady brown butter and dried pineapple on the nose and unctuous texture.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

MARI BESTIARY RAMATO 2016 Echoing the style of fellow oeno-mavericks in Northeast Italy, Mari’s winemaker, Sean O’Keefe, skin ferments pinot gris into this mouthwatering manifold expression of plum, red apple and tea leaf.

SHADY LANE CELLARS POMERANZ 2017 Shady Lane’s amber incarnation of estate-grown riesling has layers of apricot, orange peel and honey with compelling mid-palate texture balanced against lively acidity.

45 NORTH VINEYARD & WINERY DID A LIMITED RELEASE OF WHITE WINES FERMENTED WITH THE GRAPE SKINS, INCLUDING PINOT GRIS.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT '19

69

OCTOBEREVENTS 10/1 - 31

THE HUNT FOR THE REDS Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail

10/3

THE MAGIC OF BILL BLAGG LIVE Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts

10/5

THE TIPSY TROLLEY BAR CRAWL St. Ignace

10/10

MAY ERLEWINE RECORD RELEASE SECOND SIGHT Old Art Building

10/12

6TH ANNUAL HOPS N' HIGHLANDS MICROBREW FESTIVAL Boyne Highlands Resort

10/19

THE NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE HOME TOURS Traverse City Area

10/19

JOSHUA DAVIS Old Town Playhouse

10/28

MURDER MYSTERY PARTY 123 Speakeasy

MYNORTHTICKETS.COM // 800.836.0717 // 125 PARK STREET // TRAVERSE CITY MyNorth is home of MyNorthTickets and Traverse Magazine

pumpkins | outdoors

GOURD TO GO The flicker of a jack-o’-lantern on an autumn night holds a curious magic.

Spend an afternoon outdoors at a local farm in pursuit of the perfect pumpkin.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ANDREW VANDRIE

Halloween is near, and while festivities may alter with age, there is one October tradition that transcends all generations: the search for the ultimate pumpkin. Rooting among gourds at a local pumpkin patch for “the one” will resurrect an impish joy you thought had long since been laid to rest.

Luckily, Northern Michigan is home to many pumpkin patches, farms and produce stands for Great Pumpkin devotees. A favorite in Traverse City is Gallagher’s Farm Market located at 7237 E. Traverse Hwy. Symmetrical, squat, lopsided, elongated—you’ll scare up a pumpkin in every shape and size. Heck, you can even find green and white pumpkins. Peruse the pallets until you’ve picked just the right one.

Then cart or carry your plump prize toward the market stand to weigh in (price is by the pound).

Bewitching aromas of freshly baked goods waft outside from the market. Follow the alluring scents inside and reward yourself with a cinnamon doughnut and a cup of warm apple cider. Take this opportunity to stock up on other cozy provisions such as local jams, mustards and cheeses, too. Snacks in hand, meander out back to the picnic tables where you’ll be treated to a panoramic view of tree-covered hills and rolling fields ablaze in fall colors.

Andrew VanDrie writes from Traverse City. vandrieand@gmail.com

MAKE IT AN AFTERNOON Doughnut consumed and pumpkin safely buckled into your vehicle, motor just a ways up the road and prepare to get lost at Jacob’s Corn Maze (7100 E. Traverse Hwy). The 10-acre maze design changes each year, and can take up to two hours to navigate. Once you’ve made it through the winding rows of corn, head over to Rove Estate Vineyard & Winery (7007 E. Traverse Hwy.). Perched at the highest point in Leelanau County, the tasting room offers a must-see fall vista, estate-grown wines and crisp ciders.

THE NORTH’S GREAT P U M P K I N PATC H E S HARRIS FAMILY FARM 7356 INDIAN HILL RD., HONOR, 231.510.8455 ALTONEN ORCHARDS 11595 S US 31, WILLIAMSBURG, 231.264.8052 FARMER WHITE’S 11373 S US 31, WILLIAMSBURG, 231.632.1500 ROYAL FARMS 10445 N US 31, ELLSWORTH, 231.599.3222 FLEMING FARM 4264 MARTINDALE RD., GAYLORD, 989.272.3312 COVEYOU SCENIC FARM MARKET 4160 S US 131, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0011 BILL’S FARM MARKET 4450 E MITCHELL RD., PETOSKEY, 231.347.6735 Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’19

71

love of the land

Ride On! These protected places provide some of the finest mountain biking adventures in the Midwest.

PHOTO BY LIAM KAISER

The Grand Traverse Commons Natural Area (pictured) is a stunningly beautiful 140-acre recreational resource in the heart of Traverse City. Mountain biking and hiking trails wander through woodlands, streams and meadows. GARFIELD-TWP.COM The majestic, 721-acre Palmer Woods Forest Reserve is the Leelanau Conservancy’s largest natural area and has quickly become a world-class mountain biking destination. Two extremely fun and rewarding single-track flow-style trails travel through the rolling hills of this traditional northern hardwood forest.

LEELANAUCONSERVANCY.ORG

Glacial Hills Pathway, a 765-acre natural area with diverse habitats and over 30 miles of trails is just outside Bellaire. Beginner, intermediate and advanced trails offer fast and flowing rides with impressive elevation—several loops have high points 400 feet above the trailhead. The natural area is protected and managed by the Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy in cooperation with local government agencies. GTRLC.ORG Mountain bikers in Harbor Springs and Petoskey have eagerly awaited a great hometown trail of their own. Big news! Little Traverse Conservancy and the Top of Michigan Mountain Bike Association are planning a 6.29-mile trail system optimized for mountain biking, just 10 minutes southeast of Petoskey. The 236acre Tanton Family Working Forest Reserve has it all—rolling hills, steep ridges and sweeping valleys. Fundraising for the trail has begun—if able to raise $200,000

by May 2020, trail construction will begin. To be riding next summer on this incredible trail, make a gift today. LANDTRUST.ORG/MOUNTAINBIKETRAIL

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L O C A L LY S O U R C E D . E X P E R T LY C R A F T E D .

Congratulations Hotel Walloon

2019 USA TODAY 10 Best Readers’ Choice travel award for Best Wine Country Hotel

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