TRAVERSE Northern Michigan's Magazine December 2019

WEEKEND WONDERLAND! AT THE TUBING HILL, IN THE WINE BAR, ON A COASTAL COOKIE TOUR!

INSIDE: 12 DAYS OF KITCHENS THE BEST OF NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE

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Happy Holidays!

“At Triumph Custom Homes, we are proud stewards of the environment, quality craftsmanship, and your pocketbook.”

Chris Corcoran, President

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Contents

Discover more about Up North, people, places, food and events.

36

december | features

42

30 30 | SMALL TOWN SNOW GLOBE It’s the most wonderful time of the year in this magical town.

Create your own family traditions in Harbor Springs.

36 | MAKING IT These wildly creative illustrators are making their mark, right here in Northern Michigan.

42 | FARMER CHRISTMAS This stand of trees in Otsego County has a hardworking family behind it making real-deal holiday magic.

PLUS | NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE (FOLLOWING PAGE 48)

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’19

3

contents | departments

55 11 BREAD OF THE MONTH

cards on sale thru Dec 31st

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53 9 | EDITOR’S NOTE 11 | UP NORTH Bahnhof is more than a ski shop, it’s a community, thanks to Scott “Scooter” Stillings. Meet Grandfather Christmas, a Harbor Springs inventor with a big heart.

53 | LOCAL TABLE Irresistibly gluten-free doughnuts.

55 | DRINKS Pop a bottle of local bubbly!

56 | LOVE OF THE LAND Snowy hikes, by lantern light.

15 | DECEMBER EVENTS

ON THE COVER

Cozy gatherings and holiday fun!

Martell’s Northwoods Tree Farm

By Andy Wakeman

23 | TRAVEL Joyous Christmas lights in cheery small towns.

25 | UP IN MICHIGAN Memories of a ski kid.

FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA facebook.com/mynorthmedia

29 | OUTDOORS Tubing hills for maximum glee.

instagram.com/mynorthmedia

49 | DINING

pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

Merry wine bars across the North.

4

MyNorth.com

Many who find Bay Ridge, no longer leave the area in the Winter!

Independant Living 231-995-9385 Assisted Living 231-932-9757 3850 Scenic Ridge - Traverse City MI 49684 - TRS Dial 711

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MyNorth.com

A MyNorth Media Publication VOLUME 39 • NUMBER 7

PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF

Deborah Wyatt Fellows

CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER

Michael Wnek

EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL AND CONTENT EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Emily Tyra Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Elizabeth Aseritis, Caroline Dahlquist Kim Schneider, Tim Tebeau, Andrew VanDrie Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr Rachel Watson

WEB DIRECTOR

Jen Berigan

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Julie Parker

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Ann Gatrell Jill Hayes Meg Lau Cyndi Ludka

MARKETING DIRECTOR

Erin Lutke

MARKETING COORDINATOR MYNORTH TICKETS CUSTOMER SUCCESS SPECIALIST OFFICE MANAGER BOOKKEEPER

Kara Jarvis

Emily Oakes Libby Stallman Kim Stewart

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Reprints Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174.

Please e-mail other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800.785.8632 between 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. EST.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly

by Prism Publications Inc., 125 Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684.

Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $24.00 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2019, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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DEC ’19

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WINTER

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MyNorth.com

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editor’s note

In the Moment TEXT BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

I’ve written a December column since my much loved, green farmhouse held just my dog, Sara, and me.

Days wandering the snow-dusted hills and valleys of Northern Michigan with friends or family ended with dinner in front of one of our fires, warmth and light dancing against the darkened windows. Or maybe a meal in one of our small towns lit so simply and graciously it felt like entering something magical every single time.

I came of age knowing that magic takes untold forms in this place of our hearts. In December, it is found when we wake to those delicate, impossibly formed crystals tucked delicately in the window sash. It is found in winding, snowy roads that lead to small town celebrations. It is found as people put extra items in their grocery cart and add them to the local food pantry box on their way out.

It’s found in the power of the wind standing upon a bluff in a winter sun and watching the promise of snow rolling across Lake Michigan.

Over the last decades, these columns came to include the magic found in the awe and joy of raising four kids in Northern Michigan.

Words came with such ease. In December, they were rooted in the traditions we get to create because we live in this snowy wonderland: Cutting our own tree at the same farm then decorating it while watching “White Christmas.” Our annual party making edible ornaments for the animals, singing badly as we walk in the dark

with lanterns to adorn a tree in the field, imagining the feasts animals and birds will have. Kids running behind the fire truck that brings Santa, then sharing wishes and decorating cookies in the small clapboard building where local women dress as elves and adults sip hot cider. Kids coming home from my sister’s each year with stories of sledding the big hill and heaping boxes of decorated cookies. The trips where each picked out contributions to the food bank and bought coats for donation. Our annual small-downtown shopping day, the family hike on Christmas day ... and on. It’s easy to create and maintain family traditions in Northern Michigan where nature and community abound. And it’s easy when your kids’ lives are still tangled up in yours.

Our kids are now in their twenties. Last year, we still had all four home for Christmas; we’re not quite yet sharing with in-laws. And as so many know, it’s challenging to keep traditions through the college years and beyond. So each year, we’ve seen a few of our Northern traditions survive, a few altered and even a new one. Last year we cut our tree together at the same farm, but we did it at Thanksgiving when we were all together, and the tree got even bigger.

We decorated the tree to all kinds of great music, not “White Christmas.” A few of the kids made it to my sister’s just to make Christmas cookies, the outcome a marked difference as compared to toddler fingers and frosting.

And last year we created a new tradition: We donned Santa hats, brought music and had a wonderful time for a few hours on Christmas Eve day ringing Salvation Army bells, greeting last-minute shoppers and gratefully taking donations.

If life in Northern Michigan has taught me anything, especially in December, it is to have a vision, be grateful for the moment and adapt. That assured snow in the clouds rolling over the lake as you still stand in the sun reminds us that there is a lot we can’t—and shouldn’t try—to control.

We can be grateful for the winter warmth of the sun at that moment, be properly in awe of the power of what is approaching, then adapt our day to what is coming by celebrating that the fire is ready, cozy blankets are near and something warm is on the stove.

Those lessons learned living close to nature carve a path for us to adapt to the larger changes that come with life. We learn to be grateful for what is in the moment in our lives, be in awe of the changes that are happening and adapt to find the magic in how love, connection, place and family is found and celebrated as each year passes.

This holiday season, I wish you so much joy in your magical journey.

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth.com. debwf@traversemagazine.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’19

9

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Up North

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

SCOTT’S #1 PIECE OF ADVICE FOR BEGINNER SKIERS? Take a lesson—and take a private lesson. Don't scrimp on yourself.

Scott Stillings is not just the ski pro extraordinaire at Petoskey’s Bahnhof Sport, he is also an ebullient soul with a big heart.

GEAR TIP: A big part of Scott’s job is making sure people have fun and get outside during those frigid winter months. His essential piece of ski gear? Long underwear. “Not going outside just means you don’t have the right clothing.

If I get trapped anywhere, believe me, I’m not dead.

I have long underwear.”

BY MADISON DELAERE | PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC

11 More from Scott on’19page 12

up north | people

Scott Stillings has worked at almost every resort Up North during his 50+ years in the ski industry, is certified by the Professional Ski Instructors of America, done weather and ski report radio gigs across the Midwest and was the founder of Nub’s Nob’s ski school.

He’s witnessed the evolution of Northern Michigan’s ski culture from its start. In the early days of snowboarding, when it was considered radical and dangerous, Scott and his buddies headed to a steep set of sand dunes next to US 131.

“We were crazy,” Scott says, drawing out the last word. “We were rascals with inadequate equipment.”

(Which he doesn’t recommend now.)

While Northern Michigan doesn’t have massive mountains, Scott believes it’s the people and the community that makes our state a great place to ski. ​He knows virtually everyone in the local ski world, pausing mid-interview to greet friends on the street, “​Hi! How are you? I love you! I love you with all my heart!”

Chuckling back to me, “Sorry, I’m downtown signing autographs and kissing babies.”

Scott says he remembers every kid who comes into the store. “Every kid. I mean it. What kept me alive in the whole game are kids and making vacations, unquestionably.

“We’re all kids. Whether I greet a 70-year-old customer or I greet a fiveyear-old customer. So that’s where I start ... and then I just try to make vacations. Even if you’re a local and you're just going to a resort for a day, that’s your vacation.”

So, what does Scott do on his time off ? He sleeps. “If they had Olympic sleeping, I might not win the gold, I don’t want to presume, but I’m on the podium. I could be an Olympic champion,” he says.

Before you hit the slopes this winter, stop by Bahnhof and say “hey” to Scott. (Friends call him Scooter, and everyone’s a friend.) BAHNHOF.COM

12

MyNorth.com

curiosities | upnorth

LOCAL PRIDE

Grandfather Christmas

BY MADISON DELAERE | PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE

HARBOR SPRINGS AREA HISTORICAL SOCIETY COLLECTION

The year is 1914. A gentleman with a fuzzy white beard is hunched over his workbench, scraps of wood from previous creations scattered about. Ephraim Shay’s wife had passed away, work was slowing down and he needed a project.

Inspiration struck. Over the next two winters, Ephraim built more than 400 sleds for the children of Harbor Springs, so no one was left without a present under the tree. If it was on a child’s Christmas list, it would be made.

The sleds, what Ephraim called a “pair of bobs,” were about three feet long, some painted red and green, some with metal runners and some engraved with the name of the recipient, the maker and the year.

A machine shop on Bay Street in Harbor Springs is where Ephraim, who held many job titles over the years—teacher, Union Army clerk during the Civil War, sawmill proprietor— worked on the sleds and numerous inventions. Famous for designing the Shay geared locomotive, Ephraim also created Harbor Springs’ first waterworks system, often referred to as the soul of the town.

Harbor Springs began its annual tree lighting tradition the next winter, in 1915. The whole town gathered on Main Street to celebrate the holiday season with cocoa, carols and the magical lighting of the tree (the beloved tradition continues today, 100+ years later). Ephraim most likely presented the children with the sleds at this event, says Kristyn Balog, executive director of the Harbor Springs Area Historical Society.

Referred to by many in the community as Grandfather Shay, Ephraim passed away in April 1916, only months after that first tree lighting. His obituary in the Petoskey Evening News read, “his kindly face and pleasant smile will be missed by many.” At his funeral, children brought bouquet after bouquet of fresh flowers to the doorstep of Ephraim’s quirky Hexagon House, thankful for the Christmas joy and winter fun Grandfather Shay had given them.

The Shay Hexagon House will be open through December for the Harbor Springs Area Historical Society’s tree exhibit. Designed

by Ephraim around 1892, the stamped steel structure has six hexagon-shaped rooms. HARBORSPRINGSHISTORY.ORG Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’19

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Happy Holidays! bac-tc.com | bacdesigntc.com

December E D I TE D BY L I BBY STA L L M A N

TIX

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Kids | Join the magic of the

WED

Theater | A yuletide

1

3

FRI

5

SAT

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PHOTO BY ANGELA BROWN

Look for this symbol in our events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

holiday season at Stafford’s Perry Hotel in Petoskey for Crooked Tree Arts Center’s annual Sugar Plum Fairy Tea. crookedtree.org take on popular Broadway show-stoppers, A Holiday Cabaret features songs from the season in a fun, dance-filled musical revue.

Schmuckal Studio Theatre at TC's Old Town Playhouse. Dec. 2-4.

MyNorthTickets.com

Art | The Glen Arbor Arts

Center celebrates the holidays with Small Works, an exhibition of original art 12” x 12” and smaller, all priced at $150 or less. glenarborart.org

Holiday | Eight bed &

breakfasts between Whitehall, Ludington and Bear Lake deck their halls for the 2nd Annual Christmas Cookie Tour, with up to 18 varieties and three dozen cookies available for taking and tasting! Dec. 6-7 & Dec. 13-14. ludingtonbedandbreakfast.com

FIND MO R E AT MYNO RTH.CO M > E V E N T S

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And More | Visit four area

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And More | Amical’s popular

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homes decorated in Christmas finery on the annual Holiday Home Tour in Cadillac, complete with free refreshments, music and surprises along the way.

MyNorthTickets.com Cookbook Dinner Series features James Beard nominees Sarah & Evan Rich and their unique take on modern American cuisine in Rich Table. amical.com

15

Holiday | Christmas in the

Village is a weekend-long celebration filled with music, Santa Claus, shopping specials with stocking stuffer items for $20 and under, carriage rides and much more. thevillagetc.com

And More | Snowmobiles

25 years and older are invited to participate in the fourth annual Antique Snowmobile Bridge Crossing on the Mighty Mac. mackinacbridge.org

Northport Community Band and The Village Voices for an afternoon of old favorites and new. Let the traditional singalong that finishes the concert send you on your way filled with the joy of the holiday season! northportperformingarts.org

THU

Music | The quintessential

SAT

Music | Edgar Struble

19

Holiday | The Interlochen

Arts Academy Ballet Company presents the timeless story of Clara, her enchanted Nutcracker and their journey through the Land of Sweets. interlochen.org

Music | Join the

21

musical crown of the season, the Great Lakes Chamber Orchestra presents Handel’s Messiah with dazzling vocal solos, instrumental fireworks and splendid choral writing. Dec. 19 & 20. MyNorthTickets.com presents A Nashville Family Christmas, a musical event for the entire family. Peterson Auditorium, Ludington.

MyNorthTickets.com

SUN

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HANUKKAH

WED

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CHRISTMAS

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’19

15

Celebrating 42 years

downtown suttons bay

BECAUSE YOU DESERVE A BURRITO

Dazzle Your Door

Icelandic Designs

Adelaide Sequin & Wool Stocking

by Lenae May

bahles.net | (231) 271-3841

231.271.6895 • FrontPorchSuttonsBay.com Downtown Suttons Bay • Open Daily

MEMORIES:

FOR A WHOLE NEW GENERATION.

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MyNorth.com

december | events

Save yourself a trip.

Call ahead to verify all times and dates. Find more events at MyNorth.com

Art

Find more Art events at MyNorth.com.

Stop by this holiday soiree and marketplace in the Cottage Gallery at Twisted Fish. Shop a variety of original fine art and local artisanal items, perfect for your gift giving needs.

Elk Rapids. twistedfishgallery.com

Dance

Find more Dance events at MyNorth.com.

Crooked Tree Arts Center Presents: The Nutcracker: 14

Enchant your holiday season with Crooked Tree Arts Center School of Ballet's presentation of Tchaikovsky’s classic ballet. With all original choreography, this beautifully dynamic show has become a Northern Michigan tradition. A portion of the proceeds benefits the CTAC Dance Scholarship Fund. greatlakescfa.org

TARA NICHOLE PHOTOGRAPHY

Shop, Drop & Jingle Holiday Soiree: 14

Fairs, Festivals and Holidays

Find more Fairs, Festivals and Holiday events at MyNorth.com.

Petoskey Holiday Open House: 6

Santa Claus makes an appearance to light the giant Christmas tree in Pennsylvania Park and the streets close down while the merchants open their doors to offer warm holiday greetings and hospitality. 231.348.0388, petoskeydowntown.com Downtown Traverse City Holiday Events, Shopping: 6-8, 12, 19

Walking in a “Window” Wonderland Dec. 6-8: It’s a little bit window-decorating contest, a little bit scavenger hunt and a whole lot of fun! Participants get to vote for their favorite store’s window display with a chance to win a Downtown gift certificate! Cocoa Crawl Dec. 8: Spend the day shopping locally for the holidays and sipping cocoa at various locations, 11am-2pm. Dec. 12: Ladies’ Night; Dec. 19: Men’s Night; both events 5-9pm. 231.922.2050, downtowntc.com 10th Annual Light Up the Night in Bellaire: 7

Celebrate with family and friends with a day full of holiday events, from a free kids movie and ornament making to the annual soup cook-off (with 10+ participating restaurants) and a visit with Santa after the Parade of Lights. Don’t forget the community tree lighting, caroling and a live Nativity; this is truly a family friendly event! bellairechamber.org Christkindlmarkt in Bay Harbor: 13

The 2nd Annual Christkindlmarkt is a two-day event in The Village at Bay Harbor. Watch the Village turn into a festive European traditional market setting for the holiday! Artisans, German fare and beer tent, live music and dancing and so much more is in the plan for this year's event. bayharbor.com

COURTESY OF BLACK BARN FARM

Each room in the lighthouse will be Christmas themed, portraying the traditional time period (from 1858-1880) and showcasing the keepers´ heritages. Leelanau State Park. grandtraverselighthouse.com

COURTESY OF BLACK BARN FARM

Old Fashioned Christmas at the Lighthouse: 1-7

BLACK BARN FARM AND HIGHLAND ROOTS FARM PRESENT AN OLD-FASHIONED CHRISTMAS WHEN: EVERY SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 30–JANUARY 11, 1:30–4:30 P.M. WHERE: BLACK BARN FARM, 6241 N. STATE RD., CROSS VILLAGE This holiday season, step back in time in historic Cross Village, just 15 miles north of downtown Harbor Springs.

You’ll glide through the woods on a horse-drawn sleigh pulled by two handsome Clydesdales, Levi and Barney. Then, select your Christmas tree and holiday decorations (wreaths and garland!). Warm up with a cup of hot chocolate and do a little holiday shopping, for yourself or friends. You’ll find goodies like homemade pasta, pancake mix, Maple Moon maple syrup, local literature and more in the farm store.

Reservations are required. Call Black Barn Farm at 231.526.2486. Entry is $8 per person. Children 3 and under free.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’19

17

(231) 922-2050 downtowntc.com

#LETSTAKEAWALK in Downtown Traverse City

130 East Front Street, TC• 231.421.8868

MyNorth.com/Tree

Santa’s Arrival, Tree Lighting, and Downtown Light Parade November 23

Ladies’ Night December 12

Men’s Night 231.932.0510 •126 East Front Street, TC 126 East Front Street, TC• 231.932.0510

December 19

DOWNTOWN GIFT CERTIFICATES MAKE THE PERFECT GIFT! CONVENIENT PARKING IN THE LARRY C. HARDY & OLD TOWN PARKING DECKS

december | events

TOY HARBOR CREATIVE & QUALITY TOYS SINCE 1984 SPECIAL SUMMER & HOLIDAY HOURS

2ND ANNUAL WEST MICHIGAN B&B CHRISTMAS COOKIE TOUR

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY 231-946-1131 •

WHEN: DECEMBER 6–7 & DECEMBER 13–14 WHERE: 8 INNS | WHITEHALL, LUDINGTON, BEAR LAKE

PHOTOS BY ELLEN ALDERINK

Visit three charming coastal towns this December, stopping for cookies at eight cozy inns along the way.

The halls are decked during the West Michigan B&B Christmas Cookie Tour, and merry innkeepers share holiday treats, recipes and decorating inspiration. Many of the inns also have pop-up shops with products from area artisans ranging from honey and coffee to paintings and jewelry.

New this year, a portion of the proceeds will support anti-trafficking efforts through a partnership with Ludington’s HumaniTea. (The tearoom and artisan shop provides responsibly sourced teas and gifts from local and global crafters who play a role in trafficking prevention.)

On the tour, enjoy freshly baked holiday cookies from each B&B (and the recipes!), a handcrafted ornament from one of HumaniTea’s global partners, special discounts to local businesses and entry into a drawing for a $250 gift certificate to be used toward a future stay at one of the B&Bs. Tickets may be purchased through accommodation packages offered by each of the participating B&Bs. Limited, tour-only tickets not associated with a stay will be available at eventbrite.com, December 1. For more information: ludingtonbedandbreakfast.com/events.

B&B’S ON THE TOUR • Cocoa Cottage Bed & Breakfast • The Lewis House Bed & Breakfast • White Swan Inn • Candlelite Inn Bed & Breakfast • The Lamplighter Bed & Breakfast • Ludington House Bed & Breakfast • Shining Light Inn Bed & Breakfast • Bear Lake Bed & Breakfast

130 HALL STREET TRAVERSE CITY 231-252-4132

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’19

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december | events

Music

Find more Music events at MyNorth.com.

Irish Christmas in America: 1

Celebrating its 15th year, the hugely popular holiday show brings a fascinating performance of music, song, dance and stories of seasonal Irish traditions. This family-friendly performance features lively instrumental tunes on fiddle, flute, uilleann pipes and harp, along with thrilling Irish oldstyle dancing from Samantha Harvey. Milliken Auditorium at Dennos Museum Center. MyNorthTickets.com Winds of December: 7

Come inside and let our "TubaChristmas" and "Encore Winds" concert warm your holiday spirit. Featuring the Grand Traverse Show Chorus and Director Jill Hanson. First Congregational Church, Traverse City. MyNorthTickets.com The Laurel Premo Trio: 7

Laurel Premo is known for her rhythmically deep and rapt delivery of roots music on clawhammer banjo, fiddle, guitar and vocals. The fiddle-led trio also features fingerstyle electric guitar and double bass. A very intimate show with limited space in the Yurt at The Little Fleet.

MyNorthTickets.com Sleighbell At The Ramsdell is bringing Laith Al-Saadi to Manistee: 7

In 2016, Laith Al-Saadi won America’s hearts and a spot in the finale of NBC’s “The Voice.” For over 25 years, he’s been a staple of the Michigan music scene. Show opener is Cousin Curtis. Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts.

MyNorthTickets.com

Sports

Find more Sports events at MyNorth.com.

Farmland 5K: 7

RING IN NEW YEAR’S EVE UP NORTH ROARING ’20S NEW YEAR’S EVE 123 SPEAKEASY, TRAVERSE CITY If you’re looking for an elegant, glamorous and festive night out, this is the event for you! Ring in the new year by traveling back in time for a Prohibition-era celebration with a seven-course meal, champagne toast, party favors, a photo booth and raffle. MyNorthTickets.com

The Farmland 5K Run and Free for All Bike (6 loops/12 miles) and 1 Mile Kids Fun Run is Traverse City's winter weather running and biking event. This European-style cross-country race is on a dedicated course on private farmland and features trails, rolling hills, turfgrass and optional knee-high barriers including straw bales, fallen logs, wood fence and stone fence. The event takes place “under the pines” at the Rasho Farm, followed by great comfort food from Blue Tractor. tctrackclub.com

And More

Find more events at MyNorth.com.

MIDNIGHT IN THE MITTEN GRAND TRAVERSE RESORT AND SPA, ACME This celebration honors decades of Michigan agriculture with an eightcourse strolling dinner and Michigan beverage pairing stations. Dance the night away to music from the Blue Water Kings before the champagne toast at midnight. Party favors and a cash bar will also be available. Open to guests and the public. MyNorthTickets.com

Hang Workshop at Rove Estate: 5

What could be better than enjoying a night out with friends and wine, while creating a trendy sign? Tickets include all supplies and instruction for the craft, two glasses of wine of your choice and a beautiful spread of cheese, charcuterie and other locally sourced snacks.

Tickets are non-refundable and guests must be 21 or over to attend. MyNorthTickets.com MAWBY: Mac and Magnums: 7, 14

NEW YEAR’S EVE WINE DINNER BLACK STAR FARMS, SUTTONS BAY Executive Chef Jack Wenz will present a special seven-course, wine-paired dining experience for you and your loved ones at the luxurious inn. Formal attire suggested, black tie optional. MyNorthTickets.com

It's the most indulgent time of the year, so why not celebrate with Magnums and Mac & Cheese? Sample from a selection of magnums from MAWBY and bigLITTLE and learn why bubbly out of the big bottle is better. Suttons Bay. MyNorthTickets.com

PUTTIN’ ON THE RITZ RAMSDELL REGIONAL CENTER FOR THE ARTS, MANISTEE Get dressed up like a million-dollar trouper then dine, wine and dance with Dave Greer’s Classic Jazz Stompers. Enjoy hors d’oeuvres and libations.

Top hats and tiaras encouraged! MyNorthTickets.com

The Botanic Garden Visitor Center is the location for this fantastic holiday workshop. Terry Hooper, Master Gardener and owner of Hooper’s Farm Gardens, is back for another wonderful make-it-take-it class! This program is open to the public, but space is limited and advance registration is requested. 10am – noon; $35 fee. MyNorthTickets.com

Terrarium Make & Take Workshop: 7

Libby Stallman is calendar editor of Traverse. Enter your event information at MyNorth.com/events two to three months prior to event date. Questions or for more information, email Libby@mynorth.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’19

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what to do | travel

They light up the night and lift our hearts.

Make your Up North winter getaway fabulously festive with stops at these annual holiday light displays.

BY KIM SCHNEIDER

SPARKLE IN THE PARK, BEAR LAKE

BOSS FAMILY CHRISTMAS DISPLAY, CHARLEVOIX

At first, you might think it’s a mirage when you round the bend on US 31 into the village of Bear Lake. It’s thousands of lights reflecting onto the lake. Drive through Hopkins Park November 30 to January 1, with windows down to hear the music (the lights flash with the beat!). Free opening-night festivities include chili, hot chocolate, a Santa visit and carolers.

If this seems more Hallmark Christmas than tourist attraction, know this home on Pearl Avenue is a bit of both come December. The angels in the story are both the mother who started the tradition (some years writing the names of every neighborhood child somewhere in the holiday display) and the family members who have kept her legacy going for 41 years and counting. The Boss family lights up their neighborhood near Mt. McSauba (a fun stop for sledding and snowshoeing) with indoor and outdoor displays of Christmas trees and characters kids (and adults) love. FACEBOOK.COM >

FACEBOOK.COM/SPARKLEINTHEPARK

CENTRAL NEIGHBORHOOD, TRAVERSE CITY Victorian beauties drip with icicle lights, nutcrackers guard elegant entryways and sleighs parked in front yards look right at home. Wander between Sixth and Eleventh streets, from Union to Division, and find the city’s finest glowing gingerbread houses. Or join the TC Rides to See the Lights event, sponsored by Norte on December 20, and ride bikes, make friends and sing carols along the way (food donations being accepted during the ride for the Jubilee House’s outreach to the homeless). ELGRUPONORTE.ORG

HERMAN HOLIDAYS, SUTTONS BAY Head to the end of Murray Court to wave at Santa and Mrs. Claus, sign a guestbook of Santa’s friends and wander past puppies, penguins and dancing bears. Warm up afterward in downtown Suttons Bay by the indoor fires at VI Grill or outdoor fire pits at Hop Lot Brewing Co. FACEBOOK.COM >

SEARCH BOSS FAMILY CHRISTMAS DISPLAY

THE CARTERS' CHRISTMAS LIGHTS, MARQUETTE Friendly owners greet you with a candy cane and often individually guide you across their lawn decked with climbing polar bears, the Grinch in jail, even Santas on a teeter-totter.

The Carter family spends an entire month, with the help of family and friends, putting together a yard so visit-worthy that many families have made it an annual tradition. FACEBOOK.COM > SEARCH CARTERS’ CHRISTMAS LIGHTS MARQUETTE

Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she's the author of the recently published book, 100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die. kimschneider.net

SEARCH HERMAN HOLIDAYS ON MURRAY CT.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’19

23

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essay | up in michigan

SKI KID A deep devotion to downhill adventure started before he ever stepped into two skis.

BY JAMES MCCULLOUGH

I

n Norse mythology, Skaði, the goddess of skiing, appears from ancient narrative like those goddesses and gods of my early youth, carving down slopes with abilities that appeared to me as magical and distant as the North Star. No doubt the myth echoes the imaginings of even earlier cultures whose remains are emerging in receding glaciers, bogs and on billionyear-old bedrock across the northern rim of Asia and Europe. Anthropologists have discovered pictographs and petroglyphs painted and etched of figures on skis: one holds a stick, perhaps for steering, others aim bows and arrows in pursuit of game. Perhaps the images honor the most heroic among them, or simply testify to the utility or the pleasure of strapping on skis, seeking speed and agility on snow.

I imagine their ancient ingenuity as they crafted furs and wood, boots and bindings. No doubt it took a special skill and athleticism to master both craft and the pull of gravity with such crude instruments.

Certainly, ability and technology merge in devoted skiers, and eventually engineering, experimentations and evolution of equipment spread across the Atlantic to our northern American

states—into the 20th century toward 1965 when I first snowplowed on the slopes of Nub’s Nob in Harbor Springs and the Winter Sports Park in Petoskey, just down the street from my house where my father and other dads from the neighborhood taught evening lessons.

What joy—the rapture of flight down Scarface, Smokey and Chute at Nubs—absolute physical play with gravity and snow, a speed-dance that relieved me of the world and provided a source of esteem I could not find elsewhere.

I remember sitting in the old chicken coop-style warming house at the park, on a wooden bench against the wall beside ice skaters, thinking how much cooler it was to ski, lacing up my heavy leather boots, and stumping

outside, strapping on skis with “bear trap” bindings and screw-in edges first invented in the 1920s, and with cellulose plastic bottoms introduced in the 1940s.

Already, more advanced epoxies allowed laminates of wood and aluminum, and by 1952, the first fiberglass.

But I did not have the latest. My next step up was a pair of orange, epoxy and wood Yamahas, with super-safe Cubco bindings my dad insisted upon and that would raise the middle school taunt, “It’s the Cubco Kid!” by those with Marker brand bindings that held the toe in when sitting back. I would crank down the tension as far as I could—beyond safety—just to emulate the back-seat-mogul-bashing style of the early '70s, feeling diminished until I owned more current brands: Look bindings, Rossignol skis and Lange boots.

The rate of technological ascent in those days was akin to the space race I remember depicted on the cover of Time magazine, improved materials and models appearing every year into middle and high school, college, the coaching years, finally plateauing with shaped skis in my forties.

We racers debated the fastest models—Rossignol? K2? Dynamic? Atomic?

How could we tell? The skier above4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’19

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essay | up in michigan

High Up in the Woods over Crystal Lake me on the high school team roster wore Hexels, with the radically new honeycomb core, and others chose Dynastar or Voekle.

In time, I realized the equipment didn’t matter so much as my potential talent and confidence that I still lacked.

I practiced hard, listening to the coaches, trying to round turns and hook arms between fixed bamboo gates, before break-away gates changed racing technique forever.

In the days before the shorter parabolic designs, longer was cooler, faster, harder to manage, so that when I acquired and mastered a pair of 224cm Swiss-made downhill skis, I felt on top of the world. What joy—the rapture of flight down Scarface, Smokey and Chute at Nubs—absolute physical play with gravity and snow, a speed-dance that relieved me of the world and provided a source of esteem I could not find elsewhere.

All the while in my adolescent mind I sought the image of Franz Klammer, the greatest downhill racer of the ages— how he pursued the ethereal sensations of rapid descent in a fearless quest for speed, living on the wild, thin line between earth, sky and the final door to Valhalla.

Klammer was the whole package, the ultimate cool of the hero’s quest: gold medalist at the 1976 Winter Olympics in Innsbruck in one of history’s greatest victories; and winner of 25 World Cup downhills, including four at the Hahnenkamm at Kitzbühel, on the terrifying Streif slope—the Mt. Everest of all downhill courses and renowned for frightening 80 mph crashes.

I wished for his courage, trying to imagine myself in the rarified air reserved for him alone, yearning for my own unattainable accomplishments, such desire etched into the bedrock of my own personal mythology.

James McCullough teaches writing and literature at North Central Michigan College.

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’19

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tubing | outdoors

Wheeeeeeeeeeee!

Hey fun-seekers, pull on that retro snowsuit and caravan out to Timberlee Hills.

TEXT AND PHOTO BY ANDREW VANDRIE

Requiring little more than a free afternoon and a group of adrenalineloving friends, tubing is an excellent way to enjoy fresh air and abundant snow in Northern Michigan. Just 10 minutes outside of Traverse City, Timberlee Hills is riotously fun.

Timberlee supplies the goods: Snag up a tube—double tubes available for those with small children—from the collection at the base of the hill and pull it to the lift line. A tow rope will hoist you to the summit.

Once at the top, another staff member will give the go-ahead, and then it’s time to hang on for dear life! Get a running start and belly flop face-first, or get a push and coast down in luge position. As you near the end, it’s imperative to drag your feet to brake or you risk propelling into the parking lot. At the bottom, gather your wits and remaining courage and race back to the lift for another go.

Take a breather and warm up your frozen digits with some liquid courage inside the lodge. For those taking advantage of the two-hour ticket, Timberlee offers the option to split your time.

They will activate your second hour after your respite so you don’t have to worry about whiling away your tubing time indoors. TIMBERLEEHILLS.COM Purchase tickets in the lodge—$14 for one hour or $24 for two. It’s first come, first serve, just call ahead for groups of 20 or more.

T O TA L LY T U B U L A R

SLOPES ACROSS THE NORTH MT. ZION RECREATIONAL COMPLEX Gogebic Community College, Ironwood, gogebic.edu BOYNE HIGHLANDS Harbor Springs, boynehighlands.com BOYNE MOUNTAIN Boyne Falls, boynemountain.com TREETOPS RESORT Gaylord, treetops.com SHANTY CREEK RESORT Bellaire, shantycreek.com MT. HOLIDAY Traverse City, mt-holiday.com

Andrew VanDrie writes from Traverse City. vandrieand@gmail.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’19

29

snow globe small town

NOW IS THE MOST WONDERFUL TIME OF THE YEAR FOR A FAMILY-FRIENDLY GETAWAY TO MAGICAL HARBOR SPRINGS. SHAKE UP SOME NEW UP NORTH HOLIDAY TRADITIONS.

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '19

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MyNorth.com 1-800-544-4321

Let me start by saying I’m a mom of two toddler-aged boys. I don’t go out with them and enjoy Northern Michigan’s bountiful outdoors as much as I should. Especially in the wintertime. Because it’s hard.

If you’ve had young kids, you’ve been there. Bundling layer on layer to noncompliant littles isn’t an easy task. Add the cold temperatures and an inevitable toddler tantrum (or two!)—because, no, you can’t eat snow—the lengthy efforts are for a short amount of playtime. You get it.

But when asked to head to Harbor Springs during the holidays to write this travel piece, I only needed a little push ... and I was all in.

Snowpants? Packed. Road snacks? Yep. Sunglasses? Absolutely. Our family of four is ready to go.

Snowmobile tracks line the road as we drive closer to Emmet County. My husband and I are slightly giddy as we drive our two sons to our holiday trip to Harbor Springs and points beyond. At three and almost two years old, we know better than to tell them any details in advance about our adventure—we’d never hear the end of it.

So we keep our upcoming destination a secret between us. And instead, when we are asked where we’re going, we simply tell them, “North.”

We hear our boys’ first gasps of excitement from the back seat once we arrive in downtown Harbor Springs, as they spot the biggest Christmas tree they have ever seen, right in the middle of the street. The bustling heart of Harbor is beautiful—but we don’t stop driving yet. We roll down the window to wave at the marvelous tree and holler, “See you soon!” as we drive higher in elevation. Our first stop is for a snack break.

We unpack our treats and soak up the view from atop the city’s boardwalk at the end of Spring Street. With the diamonds on the bay combined with the sparkles in the snow—I could have stayed up there staring at the view for hours. But we are on a mission to explore.

On our journey back down the hill to downtown, we share the streets with people traveling on foot from Bluff Drive to the post office—arms filled with presents for loved ones. The scene is straight out of a storybook.

Artist Trisha Witty is setting up an outdoor art gallery in her courtyard just a couple of doors down from the post office.

A rare treat when the weather is just right in the winter. I make a quick stop and see some of her latest oil works while the boys take in some fresh crisp air out front. As always, her paintings capture Harbor’s charm in a way only Trisha can. I’m in awe.

As we continue wandering downtown, almost every storefront on Main Street has gorgeous garland draped from their front doors and windows—competing for the Chamber of Commerce’s window decorating contest. Local pride at its finest.

But walks in a double stroller for lakeloving boys are short-lived. And today our boys only have the patience to walk to a handful of stores before wanting to see the lake again. Once we get there, they ask where the boats are. So we go on a treasure hunt to find them. X marks the spot! It’s new for us all to see so many dock sections stacked up on land for their winter hibernation.

My mind drifts to memories of the harbor in its summer glory for a brief moment before getting ripped back to life with toddlers. “Mommy, Daddy! I’m hungry!”

Being in the holiday spirit, the

candy-cane colored awning of Pierson’s Grille & Spirits caught our eye. Mac ’n’ cheese for them. Avocado tacos and a burger for us. We feel like we’re lounging in a local ski resort thanks to the authentic antique signs, skis and snowshoes on the walls. The black and white framed photos are of the owner’s mother. Arcade games and a lesson in shuffleboard for the boys is our after-meal treat.

With full bellies and the afternoon upon us, Tunnel of Trees, here we come!

Our youngest doesn’t make it far into our drive up M-119 before closing his eyes.

And our tyke can’t stop staring to the left, squealing at the “big lake.” Two bald eagles lead the way up the winding road.

We arrive in Cross Village and stop in to see Joann at Three Pines Studio and Gallery.

We know we’re in good company when she greets our kiddos with candy canes. The boys enjoy their sweet treats and admire local art while I learn about the gallery’s annual winter solstice event coming up, wondering how I can squeeze another trip up here between now and Christmas.

Then off we go across the street to Black Barn Farm for one of the most memorable parts of our day. We’re there for their Old-Fashioned Christmas. They’re already sold out of sleigh rides for their inaugural December 2018 season (grab spots early for 2019!), and we were lucky enough to get the last seats.

Watching our boys meet Clydesdales Levi and Barney is almost as special as seeing their eyes light up on Christmas morning. And the red sleigh with velvet seats looks just like Santa’s, taking us back in time through the woods of historic Cross Village.

The boys act like Santa’s elves, listening to sleigh bells and holding our hands tightly

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '19

33

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g n i n liste to

elgh bells

i e l s as dark -coated the s e l a s d s o s r c e a s d u y y r l r a c C w. the

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— COURTNEY JEROME

as the dark-coated Clydesdales carry us across the snow. And right when my husband and I think the boys can’t get any happier, Becky from Highland Roots Farm hands us an apple to feed one of the horses once we get back to the barn.

The boys and I get up nice and close—they have zero fear. I’ll admit, I’m feeling timid being this close to a Clydesdale, knowing as a pair they’re strong enough to pull more than 12,000 pounds.

But that fear falls as fast as it came on. We all start laughing hysterically as the Clydesdale chews an apple in my hand, sending chunks toward our faces, sticky juice dripping everywhere. I glance up at my husband just in time for him to capture this moment on camera. The photo will be displayed in our house for many Christmases to come.

Now the sun is landing just right through the trees on our drive back down M-119; it looks like candy cane stripes on the narrow path guiding us south. We are eyeing each Little Traverse Conservancy nature preserve sign along the way, making a wish list for our next trip.

But we have more stops planned for today and are running low on daylight. Little birdies told us if we were traveling to the Harbor Springs area during the holidays, the trip wouldn’t be complete without a stop at Pond Hill Farm. I’m so glad we trusted our friends!

Gnome houses are hidden on groomed snow trails. A sledding hill sits alongside one of the vineyards. Santa’s Workshop is filled with every tool imaginable. There’s a winery. And a brewery.

My husband and I carry our beverages into the barn with the boys, laughing as they’re chased by ducks. A group of 20-something-year-old guys is sledding and lets us borrow a sled to take our boys down a couple of times. Talk about grinning from ear to ear!

We could stay for hours at Pond Hill Farm. And next visit we will.

But the sun is starting to set and we know our boys well enough to realize their good behavior isn’t going to last much longer. By the time we finish our sunset shoreline drive to Petoskey, the sky is dark and the Christmas lights are aglow.

“More, Mommy!” They don’t have to pull my arm to take another lap through downtown—I was going to do it for myself before they even asked. We sing “Santa Claus is Coming to Town,” while looking at the beautiful lights lining the streets.

With our exhausted boys all nestled in car seats, I can’t help but think our toddlers might gift us a silent night. I think about how oh-so-grateful I am that I heeded the little push to experience this snowy world and small-town joy today.

Courtney Jerome, her husband, Josh and their two young boys love playing in the snow surrounding Lake Leelanau. A former award-winning TV producer at WCMU and senior web editor at MyNorth Media, Courtney has now started her own media company. courtneyjeromemedia.com // Josh Hartman photographs weddings and portraits in some of Northern Michigan’s most iconic landscapes and locales. Born and raised right in the mitten, he has a lifelong appreciation for the Great Lakes. joshhartmanphotography.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '19

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MEET THREE ILLUSTRATORS KEEPING THEIR WILDLY CREATIVE SPIRITS ALIVE

BY BEING IN THE RIGHT PLACE (NORTHERN MICHIGAN) AT THE RIGHT TIME (RIGHT NOW).

STORY BY MOLLY KORROCH PHOTOS BY MICHAEL POEHLMAN

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EM’S PRO TIP

Testing out a drawing idea? Em Randall uses the app “Autodesk SketchBook.” Use it to make full illustrations, or do what Em does: take process pictures of your work and digitally sketch in possible elements to determine what works best.

Go to MyNorth.com/universepeople to see Brianne’s universe come to life.

EM RANDALL “Grateful feels like such a small word,” says Em Randall, a Traverse City-based artist. We’re sitting at a lime green table outside of BLK \ MRKT, a coffee shop in TC’s Warehouse District. On the wall across from us, there’s a large mural featuring a woman’s face in black and white. Her cheeks are two bright red circles. The painting is one of Em’s.

Last year, she showed her work at 13 different art shows and markets. This year, it’s down to two. While she’s still hustling to build her business, her work has developed a more mature tone.

The time and energy she once put into making, displaying and tediously transporting her work from show to show are now focused on larger custom projects like the mural at Warehouse MRKT or a brand redesign for Pleasanton Bakery.

“All that fighting. All that waiting patiently for people to care. It just slowly started happening. I feel like sometimes I’m an imposter and people are going to say ‘We’re sick of you!’ ” she laughs. While it may seem like it from the outside, her path to established artistdom was not a straight line.

Originally from Bear Lake, Em and her husband lived in Seattle and Olympia, Washington for five years before making the move back to Traverse City in 2016. While out West, she created her first company called Happy Grey Skies. She made whimsical plush creatures and dolls such as a piece of buttered toast with a face and a grinning rain cloud. The business resonated with her Washington audience but unfortunately fell flat in Traverse City.

“That was a big shock for me,” she says. “I gave up everything to do this for a living, thinking it was so successful, but then I came here and it was a hard halt.”

She had to make a choice. “Either I give up, and I find something else to do, or I give it another push and really change how I do things.” She chose the latter path and went back to her roots: illustration.

At first, she tried making pieces that reflected the style of Happy Grey Skies. She used pastels and soft colors reminiscent of childhood and her personal inspirations like Polly Pocket and Hayao Miyazaki films.

“I was really trying to mimic the things I saw other illustrators doing,” she says. “For the longest time, I thought about other people and how they were going to respond.”

Still, the new business wasn’t clicking. Her audience admired her skill and style, but they weren’t buying. Something needed to change. While preparing for a show at Warehouse MRKT in spring

2018, she decided to do something completely different.

Em limited her paintings to three colors: black, white and red.

The pared-down paintings revealed a sharp yet still whimsical world in her art. She laid the new series out on the floor of her living room and thought, “This is it.”

The new style was a hit. Ever since that moment, the focus of each piece is to expand her world.

“What window can I open for people to see?” she asks. “What slice can I carve out for people to peek inside?”

In a world where artists and inspiration are more accessible than ever before, it’s incredibly difficult for an artist to find their unique voice. Em still uses limitations and boundaries to push herself and her art. Is it okay to use different shades of red? Is it okay to stop selling prints?

“For me, it was not trying to do everything. You don’t have to be the artist who does wall plants in illustrations. You don’t have to be the one who does cute sayings. You don’t have to be the one who bootlegs things to be successful. I don’t have to do an illustration of Amelia Earhart to be successful. You don’t have to. You can say no to doing it all. It really carves out your place.”

BRIANNE FARLEY Traverse City-based picture book author and illustrator Brianne Farley is usually painting images of a young scientist (who happens to be a rabbit) or adventures in a secret tree fort. Brianne moved back to her hometown of Traverse City in 2015, after stints in Chicago and Savannah—where she earned an MFA in illustration at the Savannah College of Art and Design. After graduating from SCAD, Brianne moved to New York City to be a design assistant for Random House Books for Young Readers. All the while, she continually worked to get her first book published. “It was so cool because I got to see both sides of the coin at the same time,” she says. “I was a double agent.”

She published her first book, Ike’s Incredible Ink, in 2013. Thanks to its success and a lot of hard work behind the scenes, Brianne now has her dream job: book author and illustrator. “There’s no greater gift than to have someone take your work seriously,” she says. “People will ask you questions like, ‘What does this bear actually think about this donut?’ ” With personal projects, however, Brianne opens up beyond the arena of children’s books. For a recent show at Higher Art Gallery,

HELLO, BRIANNE WHAT SHOULD PARENTS READ THEIR KIDS? Death, Duck and the Tulip. It’s beautiful and amazing and I love it. It does everything right.

WHO ARE SOME AUTHORS/ILLUSTRATORS WE SHOULD CHECK OUT? Dasha Tolstikova, Ruth Chan, Thyra Heder. (Friends from Brianne’s New York days who were also bridesmaids in her recent wedding.)

WHAT DO YOU LISTEN TO WHILE YOU WORK? It depends on what stage of the project I’m in. If it’s final art, then it’s all podcasts all the time. I become the most obnoxious person on the planet because I’ve been working for eight hours a day listening to informational podcasts. I emerge from my cave saying, “DID YOU KNOW THIS ABOUT WHALES?!”

IF YOU WERE A PRIZEFIGHTER, WHAT SONG WOULD PLAY AS YOU WALKED INTO THE RING? “Psycho Killer” or “Girlfriend is Better” by Talking Heads.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '19

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“Drawn To,” featuring women in contemporary illustration, Brianne’s work took on a more personal tone.

She first started her series “Universe People” as a reaction to President Trump’s announcements regarding transgender people in the military. “I’m not very good at making negative art,” Brianne says. “This seemed like a positive way to celebrate bodies and show support.”

The Universe People are a series of deep blue watercolor and gouache paintings of couples and groups of people holding hands.

Each of the figures has gold painted features that make their gender and sexuality ambiguous. Golden stars within the radiant blue bodies give the figures a celestial appearance. “It’s not really meant to be any one skin color—it’s not supposed to be a person.

It’s supposed to be people,” Brianne explains.

Shanny Brooke, an artist and the owner/director of Higher Art Gallery, uses the same art framer as Brianne. She first saw pieces from Universe People at the frame shop last year. “I love the simplicity of them,” Shanny says. “I love what they stand for.

“Right now, we’re putting so many labels and definitions on ourselves. It’s so nice to see something that’s universal. I was excited to have Brianne as part of the show. I really think she’s going to go far.”

While it is a dream job, Brianne is hard at work illustrating two new books for other authors and is looking to both write and illustrate her own book after these projects are completed. “I finally found another book idea that I’m really excited about,” she says.

DANI KNOPH Dani Knoph’s wildlife paintings are beautiful. The details and anatomical positioning gives them a sense of gravitas, but there is also kindness and familiarity. These are the creatures that she, and so many of us in Northern Michigan, grew up with. Playing in the water—whether it’s fishing, canoeing or walking the shore—means interacting and developing a relationship with these animals.

As a child, Dani had a little red kayak at her family’s cabin in Gaylord. She’d take the kayak out for missions on the lake to find fish. Not to catch them. Just to observe. Eventually, they started following along in her wake.

Today, Dani is a wildlife conservation artist. Despite copious time exploring the outdoors as a child she says, “Conservation is something I didn’t grow up knowing about. It’s an unfolding field for

me right now.” After painting cold water fish for the better part of the last decade, Dani’s newest collection is a shift to a more terrestrial aquatic species: turtles. “The turtles are a personal reminder to slow down,” says Dani, “and hopefully they will remind others.”

The beginning of this series includes four species of turtles native to Michigan: the spotted turtle, the Blanding’s turtle, the Eastern box turtle and the wood turtle. The Blanding’s, Eastern box and wood turtles are all listed as a species of special concern, which means they are quite rare, yet have no legal protections. The spotted turtle, Dani’s favorite, is categorized as “threatened” and is therefore even rarer and must have legal protections.

“Every time I start illustrating a new species, I geek out about learning about that species,” laughs Dani. She’s quick to rattle off facts like the size of a spotted turtle (only about five inches), or that the temperature of a turtle’s nest can determine the sex of the hatchlings. “Every species is a little different,” she says. “For example, with box turtles, their eye color correlates to their gender.”

Each painting is made with pen and ink and watercolor.

Dani uses old-fashioned nibs for her pens to sketch the outline of the illustration then fills in layers of watercolor to create detailed texture. “The most difficult part of each one is just layering the color and knowing when to stop,” Dani says. “Sometimes I stop too early or stop too late.”

Her turtles look the way you might see them in the wild, not stuffed behind glass at a museum. The heads, legs and tails each take a different position on the paper. “That’s why I chose the anatomical view that I did—looking down at the shell, so people can really get a sense of how beautiful these creatures are,” Dani says.

In order to bring the turtles to life, she looks for the details.

“I love looking at the shell. The symmetry, shapes and patterns.”

She painted the spotted turtle first, and found something striking.

“It’s a small turtle, but the pattern on its shell reminded me of constellations. They inspired me.”

Dani and her paintings bring a unique edge to conservation in the area. But what can an artist do in the face of the exhausting odds currently facing conservationists? “The root of conservation is natural beauty,” Dani says. “It reminds us of childhood. Exploring the outdoors. Curiosity. Sometimes, when we get older we lose touch with that, and it’s important to stay in touch with our curious side.”

Molly Korroch is a freelance writer based in Suttons Bay. Find her at mollyhunterkorroch.com // Michael Poehlman is a Traverse City-based commercial, portrait and fine art photographer. Check out some highlights at michaelpoehlman.com

INTO THE WILD WITH DANI LAKE STURGEON // THREATENED SPECIES // These prehistoric giants once prevailed in the Great Lakes. They can grow up to 7 feet in length, weigh up to 200 pounds and some females live 100 years! This year, nearly 20,000 juvenile Lake Sturgeon were released into Michigan waters, part of an effort to rehabilitate this culturally significant species.

SPOTTED TURTLE // THREATENED SPECIES // These tiny creatures grow up to 5 inches in length and live in sedge meadows, boggy ponds, marshes and swamps. Road mortality, nest predation, illegal collection and wetland drainage threaten the survival

of this rare species. If you help a turtle cross the road, be sure to put it on the side of the road to which it’s heading, otherwise, it might try to cross again.

ARCTIC GRAYLING // Extirpated in Michigan by the 1930s. Reintroduction efforts underway. Northern Michigan’s once predominant salmonid species was wiped out by habitat destruction from the logging industry, overfishing and the introduction of non-native species. However, modern science and conservation practices are providing new models for restoring this beautiful species and sustaining naturally reproducing wild populations.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '19

41

FA RMER

CHRISTM AS For a few magical and fleeting weeks, this timber man welcomes you to find your tree—and your holiday spirit— in the deep woods of Gaylord.

STORY BY EMILY TYRA // PHOTOS BY ANDY WAKEMAN

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IF THE TREES ALL LOOK THE SAME, PEOPLE CUT THE FIRST ONE THEY SEE. AND WHAT’S THE FUN IN THAT?

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Keith is a forester. He helps landowners manage and make the most of their forests. He operates 520 acres of his own timberland.

He’s a conservationist and activist, serving on the board at HeadWaters Land Conservancy. And leading up to the holiday season, Keith and his wife, Cathy, welcome Up North neighbors to their pre-cut and U-cut tree farm in Gaylord’s snow belt.

We hop in with Keith and bump down a two-track that dips and curves through the woods like a holiday roller coaster ride.

“I started planting trees here with my dad when I was six years old,” he says. Martell’s Northwoods Tree Farm, established in 1954, was a hobby for his dad, an engineer for Ford. His dad purchased this land in Gaylord intending to plant trees on it. “As with all engineers, he liked to tinker,” says Keith. “So he built a custom tree planter to fit behind a Ford tractor. I helped my dad plant, and I loved it. It’s why I decided early in life to become a forester.”

Keith has an M.S. in Forestry from Michigan State University, served as a state forester for many years and is now partner and president of Martell Forestry, where he guides Michigan forestland owners to make informed decisions, protecting both the owner’s interests and the forestland itself. He crafts forest management plans that include planting trees, maintaining trails, protecting and improving wildlife habitat and forest stand improvement. He and his team of certified foresters administer harvests from start to finish.

He cuts the engine and we jump out. “It takes about 13 years to grow a Christmas tree in this God-forsaken soil,” he laughs. He walks in tall boots over the snow-coated blue lake loamy sand—sandy dry soil that happens to grow good Christmas trees. “Every tree that gets cut, we plant two more.” He points out the seedlings popping through the snow so we’re careful not to step on them.

Keith grows and sells “perfect” trees wholesale for tree lots and markets downstate. But on the U-cut side of his farm, he is less keen on bending nature to human will.

“We try not to do a lot of spraying. This is a natural tree farm— the trees here are not perfectly manicured like the ones that are wholesaled.” He loves the ceremony of people coming to choose and cut their own holiday tree. “People like to see trees that are Charlie Brown stage, all the way to really, really nice ones.”

It’s a delight to walk together among the farm’s plantings. As we crunch over the snow, Keith points out about 16 different species: Black Hills spruce, Balsam fir, Norway spruce ... incredibly, in what seems like a sea of evergreen, we can suddenly see the individual character of each and every tree. We admire a darling Korean fir, “It’s gorgeous, ornamental, soft,” says Keith. “Plenty of needles, and look what happens when you lift it.” We see a flash of classic white striping underneath. He shows off a typical Black Hills spruce. “A lot of people like that tree, because you can load it with ornaments and it doesn’t sag,” he says. “It has stiff branches—not too prickly—and nice silvery color.” Most folks these days seek out a Frasier fir, a soft fir that retains its needles very well. When Keith planted hundreds of trees back in the day with his dad, they

planted all Scotch pine. “When you grew up in the ’50s, that was the Christmas tree.”

The low-slung sun on the vast landscape gives the whole scene an ethereal glow, like a movie set. Only it’s real, and way more beautiful. “There’s no other place like this on Earth,” Keith says matter-of-factly.

And that truth is what makes him passionate about serving on the board at HeadWaters, a group of directors, donors and volunteers who share in a mission of preserving the remaining undisturbed natural resources in Northeast Michigan.

“What kills forest is development,” says Keith. He says he thrills in describing for the first time the concept of a conservation easement to landowners. “The central thing to land preservation is getting people to care. And you do that by getting them to look at and appreciate the beauty. At this point in my life, I am passionate about improving and protecting the forests, land and water in this area.”

We suddenly come upon his customers—a young couple and their tiny daughter. The pair grew up here.

“Want it baled?” Keith calls out. That’s a yes. Keith starts the work of lugging their tree back to the baler. After baling it neatly, Keith hauls the tree to Martell’s pre-cut stand and gift shop, where Cathy is making wreaths. Keith’s daughter-in-law emerges to maneuver the tree on a drill to ready the tree for its stand. She takes extra care, ensuring the tree will stand straight. Keith secures the tree to the top of the family’s SUV, and waves as they head down the drive. “And that,” Keith pauses, with a bemused twinkle in his eye, “Is how you make $37.”

The white holiday lights at the pre-cut stand start to glow and Keith and Cathy’s son, Boots Martell, returns from his day’s work.

He, too, is a forester for Martell Forestry, and like his dad, there is nothing else he ever wanted to do. Since it’s almost dark, Daisy goes on-leash. She is a rescue dog, and her early life was not the best. “Cathy knew she was a keeper,” Keith says, “And Daisy’s so grateful. She aims to please.”

Keith opens the front door to let Daisy back in the house, and we behold his own Christmas tree, a soaring Serbian spruce. It’s un-pruned, the way Cathy prefers it, and, as of now, still undecorated. “Maybe after Christmas tree season,” he laughs. We gift the tray of baklava, and head into the crisp, cool hush of twilight in the Northwoods. Keith is right, it’s like no other place on Earth.

Emily Tyra is editor of Traverse. emily@traversemagazine.com. Andy Wakeman is a commercial and editorial photographer in Traverse City. andywakemanphoto.com Martell’s Northwoods Tree Farm is a family-run, full-service farm with U-cut and pre-cut trees available for $35, in all sizes ($2 for baling). 205 Arrowhead Trail, Gaylord, 989.731.2062; Monday-Thursday 3-5 p.m. // Friday-Sunday 8:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '19

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HeadWaters Land Conservancy has been preserving the forest, farmlands and waters of Northeast Michigan—some of the largest natural lands left in the Lower Peninsula—since its inception in 1994. Tree farmer and forester Keith Martell is a proud member of the board at HeadWaters, putting to good use his 40 years of experience in natural resources management.

Keith shares why conservation is important to him: “I’ve seen a lot of places in my life but nothing compares to Northern Michigan. Having a relationship with the land and everything that relies on it is deeply satisfying for me. I care about the land and the people who enjoy our natural resources. I am also very interested in helping people deal with the critical issue of succession of ownership of their land. The relationships people have with each other can affect the land in ways that can’t often be predicted.

Planning for the future of your land with your family and others will help us conserve the places we love, for the people we love.”

To date, HeadWaters Land Conservancy has worked behind the scenes to protect: • 6 nature preserves • 86 conservation easements • 10,877 acres of land • 32 miles of shoreline Visit headwatersconservancy.org or call 989.731.0573 to learn about the Conservancy’s work in 11 counties of Northeast Michigan.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '19

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For the Way You Live Up North

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231.941.1448 • paulmaurer.com • Traverse City, Michigan

Volume 23

For the way you live Up North

12

•

Number 12

18

20

28 features

departments

10 12 Days of Kitchens!

In celebration of the most loved room in the house, we take a peek back over the decade at some all-time favorites.

22 Modern Family

12 New Era

32 Brady Bunch Undone

15 Condo Yum

34 Exquisitely in Control

18 Craftsman in a New Age

36 Make Room For Cooks

20 Timeless

39 Farmhouse Freed

25 Lodge Kicked Up 28 Relaxed at the Cottage 30 Kitchen Zen

5

Editor’s Note Dreaming of Great Kitchens —and Butterscotch Pie

6

Northern Style Winter Nesting

9

Trends!

Windows to Keep the Cold Out (and the View in!)

Click on Live Here >Home Ideas

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC ‘19 | JAN ‘20

NHC3

DECEMBER 2019/ JANUARY 2020

contents

A MyNorth Media Publication

PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF

Deborah Wyatt Fellows

CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER

Michael Wnek

EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL AND CONTENT EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

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CHATHAM HOUSE CHATHAM C U S T O M I N T E R I OHOUSE R DESIGN INTERIOR DESIGN

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Emily Tyra Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Elizabeth Aseritis, Caroline Dahlquist Kim Schneider, Tim Tebeau, Andrew VanDrie Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr Rachel Watson

WEB DIRECTOR

Jen Berigan

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Julie Parker

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Ann Gatrell Jill Hayes Meg Lau Cyndi Ludka

MARKETING DIRECTOR

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MARKETING COORDINATOR MYNORTH TICKETS CUSTOMER SUCCESS SPECIALIST OFFICE MANAGER BOOKKEEPER

Kara Jarvis

Emily Oakes Libby Stallman Kim Stewart

From the Publisher of

Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 Subscriber Services Visit MyNorth.com/sub to change your address or to review your account.

Please e-mail other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800.785.8632 between 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. EST. Reprints Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174.

Northern Home & Cottage is published as a supplement to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. 125 Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684 All rights reserved. Copyright 2019, Prism Publications Inc.

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editor’s note

Cheers to Great Kitchens … and Butterscotch Pie In my position at the helm of Northern Home & Cottage, it’s hard not to play the imagination game. This time of year, the object of the game is to dream up the ultimate kitchen for Up North holiday cooking.

No need to mull this one for long. For starters I’d take a kitchen sink like my grandmother had—you know, that big, wide, white basin where there’s room to drain the bundles of fresh herbs for the turkey stuffing. I want the spirit of my kitchen to be warm and old fashioned, but I’m also drawn to the sleek and smart function of today’s kitchen accoutrements. No dim, cramped cooking quarters. Give me lighting I can slice and dice by, a refrigerator spacious enough to thaw a brawny turkey and an oven that bakes the crust of homemade butterscotch pie (my family’s holiday favorite that I’ve adopted from the Joy of Cooking) to an even, toasted hue.

All of which brings me to this issue of Northern Home & Cottage, where we’ve offered up a retrospective of the greatest kitchens we’ve featured this last decade. In the spirit of the season, we’ve picked just 12—and let me

tell you the talented designers and craftsmen behind the kitchens that have graced our pages made whittling down the pool to just a dozen, an agonizing decision.

I hope you’ll think of this issue as the holiday gift to our readers we want it to be. And please find that recipe for butterscotch pie at mynorth.com/butterscotchpie. It is an old-fashioned recipe from Joy of Cooking (originally published in 1931 by Irma S. Rombauer, who penned much of it on her porch at her Bay View cottage just north of Petoskey).

FYI, it’s also stored in our MyNorth.com recipe collection—which, by the way, is a gift in itself. Perusing the 800+ recipes we’ve published in Traverse Magazine over the years is simply delicious.

The happiest holiday to you, dear readers!

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com.

Bradley J. Butcher, AIA bbutcher@sidockgroup.com 989.705.8400 • sidockgroup.com 1776 M-37 South, Traverse City

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WINTER NESTING

1. Cardinal Figurine: Sanctuary, Traverse City, 231.932.0775, sanctuarytc.com, $22

BIRDS OF A FEATHER

2. Owl Cocktail Napkins: Crystal Crate and Cargo, Beulah.

231.882.5294, crystalcrate.com, $5

CURATED BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS AND CARLY SIMPSON PHOTOS DAVID WEIDNER

3. S hadow Box Nest: Crystal Moon, Beulah, 231.651.5009, FB, $35 4. B ird and Nest Poster: 254 South, Beulah, 254south.com, $4.50

6

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8

6

10

9

7

11 5. Gold and Silver Chickadees: Christmastide, Traverse City, FB, 231.714. 5022, $7.99 each

9. L eather Feather Earrings: Serendipity, Cadillac, 231.468.3241, iloveserendipity.com, $12.95

6. Bird Candlesticks: Sanctuary, Traverse City, 231.932.0775, sanctuarytc.com, $32 each

10. Charley Harper’s Count the Birds: Premier Floral Design & Gift Emporium, Traverse City, 231.947.1167, FB, $10.95

7. Wooden Bird Clock: Sanctuary, Traverse City, 231.932.0775, sanctuarytc.com, $90

11. Migratory Bird Puzzle: Premier Floral Design & Gift Emporium, Traverse City, 231.947.1167, FB, $19

8. Feather Journal: Sanctuary, Traverse City, 231.932.0775, sanctuarytc.com, $14.99 Northern Home & Cottage

DEC ‘19 | JAN ‘20

NHC 7

West Michigan

of

Grand Rapids

Traverse City

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NorthernGarageDoors.com NorthernGarageDoors.com 8

MyNorth.com

trends!

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By Elizabeth Edwards

ANDERSEN WINDOWS // northernbuildingsupply.com

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“Folding, hinged and gliding door walls by Andersen Windows

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architecture. With narrow sight-lines, a seamless modular system, and a choice of six aluminum interior finishes, Marvin Modern is the

OLD MISSION WINDOWS // oldmissionwindows.com

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from traditional and Craftsman toward styles that project a more and design elements are driven toward clean and crisp which brings

PELLA WINDOWS AND DOORS OF TRAVERSE CITY pellaoftraversecity.com

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Northern Home & Cottage

DEC ‘19 | JAN ‘20

NHC9

twelve days of

kitchens!

10

MyNorth.com

KITCHEN #6, STORY PAG E 25 // KITCHENS BY DESIG N

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 11

new era KITCHEN

new era

01

This Victorian in downtown Petoskey had been divided into three

what we love

separate apartments (which meant three kitchens) when a young

An original door in the home re-hung with barn-door hardware leads

family purchased it back in 2015. Working with Woods and Waters

into the pantry.

Construction they painstakingly brought a new rendition of the original kitchen back to life, restoring original trim and pocket doors, among other feats. The wife worked with Dawn Whyte, now of Petoskey Kitchens, to preserve the feel but ensure the kitchen functioned for her modern family. Renee Guthrie of Lake Street Studios gets credit for the interior, including a fabulous banquette cover.

12

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KITCHEN

231.946.1234 env-arch.com

01

231.946.1234 • env-arch.com

en•vi•ron•ment noun • 1. the surroundings or conditions in which a person, animal, or plant lives or operates.

Fine Builders.

Inspired Interior Design.

Todd Zawistowski

a resources

231.946.1234 env-arch.com KITCHEN DESIGN Dawn Whyte (now with) Petoskey Kitchens, petoskeykitchens.com INTERIOR DESIGN Lake Street Design Studio, lakestreetdesignstudio.com CONTRACTOR Woods and Waters Construction, woodsandwatersconstruction.com ELECTRICAL Bear River Electric, briverelectric.com WINDOWS, DOORS, MATERIALS Preston Feather, prestonfeather.com

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 13

Exposures by Rah

condo yum

KITCHEN

02

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 15

EARN FREE APPLIANCES OR UP TO $4,500 TOWARD TH E AP P L I A NC E S O F YO U R C HO I C E. JULY 1 – DECEMBER 31, 2019 *Se e model l i st fo r d et ai ls.

www.maxsservice.com

KITCHEN

condo yum

02

Ah, what to do with the outdated condo kitchen? The homeowners told kitchen designer Liz Jerore of @Home Cabinetry & Interiors simply that they wanted it to “feel like a warm hug.” Jerore got the message, delivering this complete kitchen makeover that makes us feel as much like we fell into a bowl of gingerbread dough as we do hugged. That gingery look comes from the copper strips in the hood range, the range knobs, apron-sink and faucet—small elements that pop big against this black and white kitchen. All of that creamy custom cabinetry conceals clever storage in every available space.

resources KITCHEN DESIGN AND CARPENTRY @Home Cabinetry & Interiors, homecabinetryandinteriors.com RANGE Big Chill through @Home Cabinetry & Interiors, homecabinetryandinteriors.com APPLIANCES Max’s Service, maxsservice.com

what we love The simple crisscrossed mullions in the glass cabinet faces pack a big design punch.

TILE Tilecraft, tilecrafttc.com ELECTRICAL Panoramic Electric Contractors, pec-tc.com

criss cross mullions

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Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 17

Jenna Roland

KITCHEN

03

craftsman 18

MyNorth.com

KITCHEN

craftsman in a new age

03

Fresh white cabinets, marble countertops and bold blue, Euro-

resources

patterned tile breathe new life into this authentic Craftsman home in Charlevoix renovated by MPN builders. The white beadboard ceiling, white oak floor, furniture-style cabinets and old-timey pulls keep the room feeling vintage. Touches of brass in the custom-designed hood (thanks, Jana Phillips Interiors) and pendant lights add more vintage class.

what we love

CONTRACTOR MPN (Miller, Poineau and Naumes), mpnbuild.com INTERIOR DESIGN Jana Phillips Interiors, interiorsincpetoskey.com/jana-phillips APPLIANCES Witbeck, witbeckappliance.com COUNTERTOPS Capital Granite, capitalgraniteinc.com WOOD FLOORS LeGrand Wood Floors, legrandwoodfloors.com

The paned window to the right of the stove is original. Some things are just too good to change!

TILE Great Lakes Tile & Contracting, greatlakestile.net WINDOWS Old Mission Windows, oldmissionwindows.com

historic touches

Subscribe to the Season!

MyNorth.com/Love

Photo by Maconochie Photography

The ultimate goal of the Architect is to create a paradise... every house should be a fruit of our endeavor to create an earthly paradise for people.

Elk Rapids Northville 231.498.2500 248.515.4477 josephmoseyarchitecture.com

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 19

04

timeless 20

MyNorth.com

Todd Zawistowski

KITCHEN

KITCHEN

timeless

04

Located up the hill from hopping downtown Traverse City, this seamless and symmetrical kitchen spells serenity. Credit the team of MAC Custom Homes and Kitchen Choreography for this room's strong architectural details (cathedral ceiling, clerestory windows, powerful beam) and surface material shades of tan and brown that flow together like syrup. The tried-andalways-true work triangle and organic materials make this room timeless.

resources CONTRACTOR MAC Custom Homes, maccustomhomes.com KITCHEN DESIGN Kitchen Choreography, kitchenchoreography.net HOME DESIGN Lankford Design Group, facebook.com/lankforddesign

what we love The range backsplash and hood trim (encasing stacked stone) look like metal but are actually tile.

love that backsplash

PETOSKEY

KITCHEN & BATH PETOSKEY

DESIGNS BY DAWN KITCHEN & BATH DESIGNS BY DAWN

The Ferraro Group

KITCHEN & KITCHEN &BATH BATH

Call us today for your free consultation 231.347.1977 petoskeykitchens.com Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 21

modern family

KITCHEN

22

MyNorth.com

Dave Speckman

05

KITCHEN

modern family

05

The homeowners worked with designer Marty Rhein of Bay Area Contracting to renovate a 1960s kitchen to accommodate a modern family of four. Counter-to-ceiling subway tiles, shiplap paneling and floating shelves give it a contemporary accent, while custom cabinetry by Wooden Hammer ground the style in timelessness. The fabulous 39-by-95-inch island, topped with a 3-inch quartz countertop is big enough for family craft projects—and tough enough to hold up to them. A prep sink located a cutting board’s-length away from the stove is a cook’s dream. And a refrigerator tucked next to the entrance streamlines bringing in the groceries.

what we love The wooden shelves add a warm, vintage touch while well-loved objects stay in view.

resources KITCHEN AND BATH Marty Rhein, Bay Area Contracting, bayareacontracting.net CONTRACTOR New Frontier Construction, newfrontier.expert CABINETRY Wooden Hammer, LTD, woodenhammer.com FLOORING Floor Covering Brokers, floorcoveringbrokers.com APPLIANCES Max’s Service, maxsservice.com

wooden corner shelves Enhance Your Home with a

Residential Elevator We can incorporate an elevator, beach lift, or stairlift into your home.

Serving Michigan for over 67 Years

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Tom McNally

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 23

The Original Stormy Kromer Cap

by Stormy Kromer

Lakeside Living at its Finest Timeless landscape architecture delivering decades of memories Contact us today for your consultation

24

MyNorth.com

Petoskey Stone Pillow

by L. Saile Designer Jewelry

lodge kicked up

KITCHEN

James Yochum and Alan Leese

06

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 25

PERFECT PARTNERS BRINGING YOU THE FINEST STONE & TILE FOR 20 YEARS

PETOSKEY

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DESIGNS BY DAWN KITCHEN & BATH DESIGNS BY DAWN

KITCHEN & KITCHEN &BATH BATH

Call us today for your free consultation 231.347.1977 petoskeykitchens.com

NORTHERN MICHIGAN’S EXCLUSIVE PARTNER

fabrication, service & design Traverse City • 231.929.2848 • stratusmarble.com

26

MyNorth.com

KITCHEN

lodge kicked up

06

The homeowners of this distinctive kitchen define themselves as winter people—they love snow and love to ski, so they wanted a home that felt as rustic as a mountain lodge. Jill Brecheisen of Kitchens by Design helped them solidify their ideas with this standout kitchen that evokes home and hearth sentiments. The feel is created by touches like the furniture piece at the end of the counter, the cordovan-colored granite (the designer calls it “cowboy leather”), the natural-wood framed and paned windows, copper apron sink, antique-white furniture-footed cabinetry and the perfectly period CCC-era blue-green wall color.

resources DESIGNER Jill Rowley with Glennwood Custom Builders, glennwoodcustombuilders.com KITCHEN DESIGNER Jill Brecheisen with Kitchens by Design, kitchensbydesignpetoskey.com CONTRACTOR Harbor View Custom Builders, harborviewcustombuilders.com

what we love The stone range hood with the wood mantle is a true soul-warmer.

warm and beautiful

Jethany Lee, CKD Certified Kitchen Designer jlee@advancecabinetry.com • 231-420-8464 • 989-732-2485 846 Carpenter St. Gaylord, MI

Photography by Windborne Studio

cabinetry • appliances • electrical • lighting

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 27

KITCHEN

Cottage Company

07

relaxed at the cottage

28

MyNorth.com

KITCHEN

relaxed at the cottage We never tire of cottage-style kitchens with their glossy-white molding, beadboard and cabinetry—a style that the Cottage Company in Harbor Springs does particularly perfectly. Cottage Company was the creative force behind this rendition that feels so in charge of its mission that folks pulling up a barstool can’t help but

07

resources KITCHEN DESIGNER Cottage Company, cottage-company.com

take the Relax sign seriously. The nautical pendant lights and navy walls set a shore-side feel that is echoed in the view of Walloon Lake out the window.

what we love The brass and white-enamel La Cornue stove with a matching brass pot filler makes our heart ache with joy.

brass and white enamel

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 29

kitchen zen

KITCHEN

Todd Zawistowski

08

30

MyNorth.com

KITCHEN

kitchen zen

08

is clear in this Asian-inspired kitchen renovation. A large entertaining kitchen was important to the couple; each of them loves to cook.

To achieve the desired openness but also maintain a neat, welcoming space, Holdeman drew an open kitchen with an adjacent “working kitchen� where messes are easily concealed. Lankford outfitted the entertaining space with his signature clever efficiency, using custom mahogany cabinetry and a stone-slab backsplash.

resources

The genius of architect Bob Holdeman and designer Scott Lankford

what we love The simply genius shelf cut-out in the stone backsplash for storing cooking oils and spices.

CONTRACTOR David Webster Construction, davidwebsterconstruction.com INTERIOR DESIGN Lankford Design Group, FB STONE TOPS AND BACKSPLASH Capital Granite, capitalgraniteinc.com METALWORK North Shore Iron Works, northshoreironworks.com CABINETRY Dovetail Custom Cabinetry, dovetailcustomcabinetry.com STAINLESS FABRICATION Great Lakes Stainless, greatlakesstainless.com PLUMBING, HEATING, COOLING Precision Plumbing & Heating, precisiontc.com

cut-out stone backsplash

Total Commitment to Quality

More than 25 years of experience in building distinctive homes while exceeding the expectations of discriminating clients. jim@cooleycontracting. com

LIGHTING, SOUND, HOME SYSTEMS Waara Technologies, waaratechnologies.com

The easiest gift for the Northern Michigan lover, under $25!

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MyNorth.com/DEC19

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 31

KITCHEN

09

brady bunch undone KITCHEN

brady bunch undone

09

Kitchens in Brady Bunch-era kitchens can be a challenge to renovate

what we love

for the simple reason that they are usually as bland as, well, that

The walnut countertop inset that doubles as a casual meal spot and

television show. That said, we love Northwood Kitchens' renovation

serving space. Brilliant!

solution. She began by removing the drop ceiling in the kitchen and widening the passage to the living room. She also altered the original window pattern to make space for much needed countertops, all without losing the leafy view of the backyard. Up came the old linoleum floor and down went cork. Out went the old cabinets and in came fresh, clean bamboo cabinetry. In an unexpectedly luxurious touch for a small kitchen, the island’s quartz countertop has a waterfall side (not shown).

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MyNorth.com

that countertop

Your Dream Kitchen May Be Closer than You Think.

CABINETRY COUNTERTOPS WOOD FLOORING Visit either our showrooms and meet Carolyn Andrews, our kitchen and bath designer.

Dave Speckman

Carolyn will assess your needs and help turn your ideas into reality!

resources KITCHEN DESIGN AND INSTALLATION Northwood Kitchens, facebook.com/northwoodkitchens

OUTDOOR LIVING IS YOUR PASSION. OURS TOO. 1480 S. West Bay Shore Dr. Suttons Bay, MI 49682 231-271-0010

northernbuildingsupply.com

1701 South Airport Rd. West Traverse City, MI 49686 231-947-1400

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 33

KITCHEN

exquisitely in control 34

MyNorth.com

Todd Zawistowski

10

KITCHEN

exquisitely in control

10

the hub of the living/entertaining space. Like the control center it is, the kitchen sits at the far end of the great room, fronted by the dining area and bar and flanked by a breakfast nook on one side and pantry/ mudroom area on the other. Hiding mess and fuss is easy and nothing impedes the entertaining flow. The style, which is spot-on for a sophisticated but relaxed beach house, brings in a cottage feel with a beadboard ceiling and two white columns subtly marking the

resources

This kitchen design is a lesson in how to make a small, open kitchen

KITCHEN DESIGN Kitchen Choreography, kitchenchoreography.net ARCHITECT Cornwell Architects, cornwell-architects.com CONTRACTOR Paul Maurer General Contracting, paulmaurer.com

kitchen space.

CUSTOM CABINET WINDOWS kuhl doors, kuhldoors.com

what we love

MECHANICAL D & W Mechanical, dwmechanical.com

There is plenty to fixate on here, including the beadboard, octagonal ceiling in the breakfast nook and the handmade glass cabinet fronts on the bar by artisan Guido Kuhl of kßhl doors. But it’s the Ann Sacks-tile backsplash that makes us swoon.

that backsplash

WINDOWS Old Mission Windows, oldmissionwindows.com INTERIOR DESIGN Kim Abbott, Traverse City, kimabbottinc.com Kristin Lutz Interiors, FB Cedar Creek Interiors, cedarcreekinteriors.com

creating your home for the

Holidays

one-stop-shopping for your new construction, remodel, or restoration project, including contract management

www.KitchenChoreography.net 420 South Division Street, Traverse City

231.932.9700

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 35

make room for cooks KITCHEN

make room for cooks

11

What do you do when you love the location of your downtown

what we love

Traverse City home but not its 19th-century-sized kitchen? One solu-

The way-cool, poured concrete dining addition that Ts at the island,

tion is to hire architect Michael Fitzhugh to reconfigure the space

kicks up this efficient kitchen’s dining and entertaining quotient.

and kitchen designer Liz Firebaugh of Signature Kitchens to trick it out for cooking and entertaining. Fitzhugh’s design removed a wall to open up the kitchen to the dining/living space and extended the outside wall 10 feet. A wall-sized glass slider system that looks out onto a covered grilling area helps the kitchen feel even larger. A sagecolored glass-tile backsplash and walnut island countertop are perfect transitional materials that bridge the home’s old soul and contemporary renovation.

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concrete island

w a rd

2019

er

rA

ui HBA B ld

ea of th e Y

EXPERIENCE: To be aesthetically moved by

11

resources

Dave Speckman

KITCHEN

EXCELLENCE: The quality of being outstanding

ARCHITECT Michael Fitzhugh Architect, mfarchitect.com KITCHEN DESIGN Liz Firebaugh, Signature Kitchens, signaturekitchensonline.com GRANITE AND TILE Stratus Marble and Granite, stratusmarble.com WINDOWS AND DOORS Access, Window, Door & Hardware, accesswdh.com

maccustomhomes.com • 231.935.4609

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 37

Northern Michigan

STYLE

TM

Tour our design showrooms

12/15

A WINTER DINNER WITH ABRA BERENS Willowbrook Mill

BUILDING CENTERS & DESIGN SHOWROOMS PETOSKEY | HARBOR SPRINGS | GAYLORD | TRAVERSE CITY prestonfeather.com

38

MyNorth.com

MYNORTHTICKETS.COM 800.836.0717 125 PARK STREET TRAVERSE CITY, MI 49684

farmhouse freed 12

Todd Zawistowski

KITCHEN

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '19 | JAN '20

NHC 39

KITCHEN

farmhouse freed

12

These homeowners raised their family in a cramped, true farmhouse kitchen that had seen its last remodel in the 1940s. The mother of the family of five washed a lot of dishes over the years—all in a sink that didn’t even have a window over it, depriving her of a view of the family’s orchard. When they were ready to remodel they turned to Marty Rhein (now with Bay Area Contracting) for help with layout and surface elements. Since the wife—the main cook—loves visitors in her kitchen, but not underfoot, Rhein created two passageways from the adjoining dining/living area, one leading to the galley side of the kitchen and the other to the eating/hanging-out side. He also used some gorgeous oak that the husband had milled years before for oldstyle molding, a touch that marries the new kitchen with rest of the vintage farmhouse.

resources KITCHEN DESIGN Marty Rhein, (now with) Bay Area Contracting, bayareacontracting.net CONTRACTING Jeff Aprill now Earthworks Excavating, 231.941.8692 APPLIANCES Max’s Service, maxsservice.com COUNTERTOPS Nature’s Edge, naturesedgetc.com HARDWARE Allen Supply, allensupply.net

what we love The fabulous retro-tile backsplash. The homeowners had stored the tile for years (decades?) waiting for the time they renovated, because they really wanted to use them. Working in black accents throughout the kitchen to pick up on their black background, Marty Rhein made

vintage backsplash

them pop.

NO ONE LIKES COLD FLOORS. Lower energy bills and warm feet are just a few steps away.

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Family-owned local company serving Northern Michigan for 12 years!

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877-DRY-MICH | DryMich.com

40

MyNorth.com

Giving You that Custom Look Without the Custom Price

Dura Supreme craftsmen take great pride in every cabinet they build. Our kitchen design center would be happy to show you various wood choices, door styles, and finishes to choose from... Call 231.325.4551

Add Dura Supreme throughout your home

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Family Owned Since 1963 FAX: FAX: 231-352-9562 231-352-9562

Dining

TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU

PHOTO BY MICHIGAN BAREFOOT MEMORIES PHOTOGRAPHY

ch eer s, f rie nd s

RESTAURANT GUIDE | LOCAL TABLE | DRINKS

PROVISIONS WINE LOUNGE 123 WATER STREET, BOYNE CITY | 231.582.2151 Stepping into Provisions Wine Lounge, an ice-beaded bottle of bubbly pops it cork on cue. Giant charcuterie boards punctuated with ribbons of prosciutto, fiery red peppadews and wedges of creamy Affinois cheese land on sleek banquettes among garnet glasses of briary Spanish garnacha. With retro incandescents overhead pouring soft light onto exposed brick it might seem like we tripped through a wormhole into Midtown Detroit or Chicago’s Fulton Market. Not so, as is this scene of buzzy bacchanalia is the third prong in Ed and Kristine Brehm’s trident of businesses in downtown Boyne City. While there are cold beers and craft cocktails to be had, Provisions Wine Lounge is refreshingly winecentric with a whopping 75 international by-the-glass selections kept fresh with a commercial Verre de Vin system. Read on this month as we sip our way through the North’s best wine bars.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC '19

49

dining | wine bars

WINE BARS WE LOVE

Pop in and celebrate.

PROVISIONS WINE LOUNGE

CELLAR 152

123 WATER STREET, BOYNE CITY | 231.582.2151 Wines articulated in a user-friendly list organized by flavor profile pair with a streamlined oeno-friendly selection of small plates like bacon-wrapped bleu cheese dates and artisan salumi.

152 RIVER STREET, ELK RAPIDS | 231.264.9000 Sip a cold flute of Prosecco or lush New World red blend while grooving to live music at this hip and intimate Elk Rapids watering hole.

VINTAGE CHOPHOUSE & WINE BAR

250 NORTH HURON STREET, CHEBOYGAN | 231.445.7101 New to the sunrise side, Queens Head slings smoked fish, cheese and charcuterie to complement a list of ripe West Coast wines.

3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DRIVE, BAY HARBOR | 844.717.2072 The wine list at the Inn at Bay Harbor’s swank lakeside space is anchored by blue chip California bottlings balanced with selections from Bordeaux, Spain and Northern Italy.

POUR WINE & FOOD

PHOTO BY MICHIGAN BAREFOOT MEMORIES PHOTOGRAPHY

422 EAST MITCHELL STREET, PETOSKEY | 231.881.9800 Sommelier Todd Chinnock curates an on-trend program of casual wines on tap and geek-friendly selections like amphora-aged Portuguese whites and Cru Beaujolais.

PROVISIONS WINE LOUNGE

50

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THE QUEENS HEAD WINE PUB

ZEPHYR WINE BAR 215 SOUTH FRONT STREET, MARQUETTE | 906.273.0740 Lending wino bona fides to Marquette’s enduring coolness, Zephyr is surely the only place along the Superior shore to get a glass of Calabrian Gaglioppo and a plate of smoked duck, figs and shaved beets.

restaurant guide | dining

RESTAURANT GUIDE Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants at MyNorth.com/Restaurants | WATER VIEW BLD | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER BAR | ALCOHOL SERVED $ | ENTRÉES INDER $10 $$ | $10-20 $$$ | ABOVE $20

PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/INDIAN RIVER Dutch Oven Café and Deli French toast and farmers omelet stratas, sandwiches on famous homemade bread. BL •

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR •

Pelican's Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads and homemade desserts. D • BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY,

$-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and an evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321 Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR • $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800

Roast & Toast Hip coffeehouse with daily house-made soups, bread, bakery items and salads. On-site coffee roasting.

A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. BLD • $ 309 E. LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767

Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick oven pizzeria. BL • $ 3393 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.1230 Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. LD • BAR • $ 1200 N. U.S. 31, PETOSKEY, 231. 347.9291

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with a big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771 Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with a wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD

$ 7611 U.S. 31, ALANSON, 231.548.2231

• BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on the Bay Harbor marina. B • $ 4165 MAIN STREET, BAY Original Pancake House Crepes, waffles, pancakes, omelettes, egg specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$ 840 FRONT ST., BAY

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201 Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $

HARBOR, 231.439.2770

422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

Vintage Chophouse/ Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. D • BAR • $$ 1549 GLENDALE, PETOSKEY,

HARBOR, 231.439.9989

INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlifedecorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.9471

CROSS VILLAGE/HARBOR SPRINGS/ PELLSTON/PETOSKEY Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. LD • BAR $-$$$

231.347.2410

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900

Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and handrolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American cuisine with global wine and craft cocktail bar. D • BAR • $$ 129 EAST BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.412.6032

231.753.2221

The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes, home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. BL • $ 423 MICHIGAN ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.5583

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients.

Seminole Pub. BLD • BAR • $–$$ 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3000

Chandler’s Brick-walled and -floored dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to savor this art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. LD • $ 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250

Stiggs Brewery Hand-crafted brews, from-scratch food like whitefish cakes, bourbon chicken sandwich, top sirloin wagyu steak. LD • BAR $-$$ 112 S. PARK ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6100 Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cuisine at Shanty Creek Resort with a view of Lake Bellaire. Breakfast, lunch & dinner. The River Bistro—Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, Lunch, (spring-fall) Ivan’s Mountainside Gril—Schuss Village-Pub food. BLD • BAR 1 SHANTY CREEK RD. (M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD • BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

NEW Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contempo-

rary American food with a focus on local ingredients. D • BAR • $$ 213 N BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301

Torch Riviera Pasta, seafood, steaks, ribs, pizza. D • BAR • $$ 12899 CHERRY AVE., RAPID CITY, 231.322.4100

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D

• BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999

CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/ EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. D L • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

The Cantina Tacos and tequila with indoor and outdoor seating. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 VAN PELT PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3612

Charlevoix Pizza Company Scratch-made dough, fresh ingredients, golden crust, prepared daily. Plus, cheesy bread and wings. LD • $-$$ 311 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6300 East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling technique in this specialty food and wine shop. D • $-$$$ That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Grey Gables Inn Graceful, intimate, Victorian atmosphere across from the harbor. D • BAR • $–$$$ 308 BELVEDERE, CHAR-

CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/WALLOON Boyne City Taproom Craft beer, wood-fired pizzas, wraps, burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 220 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.459.4487 Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge—Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern— American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 Corner Bistro French-inspired small plates, classic cocktails, wine, beer, Sunday brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 102 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7344

Friske Orchards Cafe Cheerful roadside restaurant features farm-fresh breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and a bakery. BL • $ 10743 U.S. 31 S., ATWOOD, 231.599.2604 Lake Street Pub American pub with outdoor patio and firepit, BYO mac ‘n’ cheese, cocktails, 26 beers on tap. LD • $ 202 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6031

231.582.0049

12853 U.S. 31 N., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300

04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY,

CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

LEVOIX, 231.547.9261

Lake Charlevoix Brewing Co. Craft brewery with good eats—grilled cheese sammies, tacos, quesadillas and beef jerky. LD • BAR • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE PARK DR., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3220

Pigs Eatin’ Ribs Real smokehouse with mouthwatering BBQ. Weekend breakfast. BLD • $-$$ 1418 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7447

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E. JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food. LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with a massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel. LD • BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D • BAR

• $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

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DEC '19

51

dining | restaurant guide

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA

4990 US31 N, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.599.1111

Boone Dock’s Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444 Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff. LD •

Villager Pub ’50s atmosphere, whitefish, Mexican, ribs, sandwiches and pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHAR-

NEW Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers,

231.275.6401

BAR • $ 172 W BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869

Dilbert’s Soups, sandwiches, omelets and other home cooking served in a homey atmosphere. BLD • $ 11303 U.S. 31, INTER-

Torch Lake Cafe Inventive, ultra-fresh cuisine with sharable options like the seafood platter with black garlic butter. Or devour an elevated fried bologna sandwich with pickled green tomato and house Dijon all on your own... BLD • BAR • $-$$$

LEVOIX, 231.547.6925

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING/MANCELONA Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. LD • $ 147 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901

Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in a wine bar on the Elk River. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9000

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better. BL • $$ 145 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively zydeco, jazz and blues. LD • BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530

Siren Hall Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, fresh-off-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 151 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231. 264.6062

Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting. Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3917 SOUTH OLD 27, GAYLORD, 989.732.9288

Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. LD • BAR 227 E MICHIGAN AVE., GRAYLING, 989.745.6388

Spike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since 1933. LD • BAR $ 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113 Tap Room 32 Twenty handles of Michigan craft beers and a menu of modern brew-friendly vittles like truffle fries and Korean beef tacos. D • $$ 141 NORTH COURT AVE., GAYLORD, 989.748.8552

The Old Depot 1900s train depot features homestyle burgers, steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. BLD • $$ 10826 M-32 E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115

Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. BLD • BAR • $$-$$$ 216 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5524

Treetops Sylvan Resort Hunters Grille, & Sports Bar. Steak, burgers, ribs, pasta, signature pizza, chicken, fish and glutenfree selections. Featuring a selection of 100 Michigan craft beer, wines, fabulous martinis. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ WILKINSON RD., GAYLORD, 800.444.6711

Shirley’s Café An ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. BLD • $ 528 S. WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210

LEELANAU COUNTY 45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and lunch. BL • $-$$ 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza.

Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

Blu Exquisite regional cuisine from chef Randy Chamberlain in an intimate setting on Sleeping Bear Bay. D • BAR • $$$$ LAKE ST., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.2530

The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927. Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the off-season. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081 Big Cat Brewing Company Casual brewery serving comfort food classics including pot roast, French toast and Grandma Ackley’s Carrot Cake. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 8699 S. GOOD HARBOR TR., CEDAR, 231.228.2282

BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688

hand-cut fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling in the winter. LD •

Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches, pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.9912

Fig's Sandwiches, breakfasts, salads homemade with local ingredients. Great selection of vegetarian dishes. BL • $$ 202

INTERLOCHEN Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout and so much more. LD BAR • $-$$ 10586 US31, INTERLOCHEN,

LOCHEN, 231.275.3005

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2784 M-137, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6979

WEST MAIN STREET, LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.7720

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season.

LD • BAR • $ 7144 N. M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MCFARLANE, MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10844 E REVOLD RD., SUTTONS BAY, 231.944.1297

The Homestead Nonna’s Restaurant—Classically inspired, contemporary Italian cuisine. D • BAR $$-$$$ Beppi’s Sports Bar—Hand-tossed pizzas, paninis and salads. D • BAR • $-$$ 1 WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000

Hop Lot Brewing Co. Family-friendly microbrewery with four-season patio and games serving ribs, tacos, wings and a s’more kit to top it all off. LD • BAR • $-$$ 658 S WEST-BAY SHORE DR., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4445

Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$ 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019 BAY

OLD MISSION PENINSULA Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. LD • BAR • $$ 13512 OLD PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, locally sourced fare and craft cocktails. D THURSDAY,

FRIDAY & SATURDAY 5PM–9PM • BAR • $-$$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4222

Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials. LD • BAR • $$ 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.7280

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY Alliance James Beard-nominee Pete Peterson teams with upand-coming chef James Bloomfield at this Warehouse District bistro. LD • BAR • $-$$ 144 HALL ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5545 Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch.

LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with fromscratch farmer food. and Michigan-crafted beers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515

SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads and tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E.

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE,

Bu-Shi Gourmet burgers. Fresh sushi. One place. LD • BAR •

FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

231.334.3944

$-$$ 531 W. FRONT ST., 231.252.3086

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR •

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-$$$

$ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch, including some gluten free dishes and pastries. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR • $$ 420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast—all done well. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6692

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, breakfast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers share the menu.

BLD • $ 110 E. NAGONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055

Tucker’s of Northport Casual bistro dining with exceptional apps, Great Lakes fish, house-smoked wings, plus Beyond burgers and brats. LD • BAR • $-$$ 116 WAUKAZOO, NORTHPORT, 231.386.1061

Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. LD • BAR • $$ 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231.

334.3362

Wren Contemporary comfort food and a constantly changing menu to feature locally sourced ingredients. D • BAR • $$ 303 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.1175

115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. BLD • $ 129 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. LD • BAR • $ 108 S. UNION, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

The Franklin Hip downtown eatery featuring flatbread, salads, lamb and beef burgers, bistro dinners. Fabulous wine, craft beer, hard cider and perry. LD • BAR • $-$$ 160 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2727

Georgina’s Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 236 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1555

The Good Bowl Fresh, authentic Vietnamese eatery. Donates $1 for every bowl to the charity of your choice. LD • BAR $-$$ 328 E FRONT ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662

The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads. BL • $ 115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. BL • $ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437

Harvest In brand new expanded location, local foods hip spot. LD • $ 136 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.486.6037 Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR • $$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100

52

MyNorth.com

local table | dining Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2793

Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, wellaged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelets, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. BLD • $ 124 CASS, 231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590

Pangea’s Pizza Pub Craft pies, creative toppings. LD • BAR $-$$ 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800

Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD • $-$$$ 237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9645

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7632

Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer.

LD • BAR • $$ 229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh, sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips Ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700 Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (including European Trappist ales) with your burger and lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4807

THIRD COAST BAKERY 523 MUNSON AVE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.8696, THIRDCOASTBAKERY.COM

Just east of downtown Traverse City, along Munson Avenue, is a gluten-free haven that’s always my first stop in town.

Baker-owner Heather Burson’s baked goods are pure art: fresh scones, gooey chocolate chip cookies, pillowy cinnamon rolls dripping in glaze, and rows upon rows of colorful doughnuts. If you’re lucky, you may snag a peanut butter swirl brownie straight from the oven, though these disappear quickly.

Third Coast Bakery, the only dedicated gluten-free establishment in Traverse City, is also completely dairy-free, soy-free, and vegan.

Celiacs can rest assured that Burson goes above and beyond in sourcing gluten-free ingredients. The oats and even the sugar are certified gluten-free, and the front door features a friendly sign asking customers and employees to leave all gluten-containing food outside.

After ordering a week’s worth of gluten-free doughnuts (which will invariably be gone tomorrow), I can’t resist the menu of specialty coffee drinks, named after Northern Michigan landmarks.

As I dunk my doughnuts in a Sleeping Bear latte, it’s hard not to feel grateful for entrepreneurs like Bunson, who feed Traverse City’s gluten-free community and beyond.—Sarah Bence

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Sugar 2 Salt Traverse City's hot brunch spot serves up what is in season. B • $-$$ 1371 GRAY DR., SUITE 300, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.409.8382

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500 The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.090

Thirsty Fish Sports Grille Family-friendly sports bar with seafood, burgers, steaks, pasta and a 600-gallon fish tank.

Live music on the patio. LD • BAR • $-$$ 221 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1165

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST Don’s Drive In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. LD • $ 2030 U.S. 31 N., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.1860

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends.

D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000

Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-can-eat cod. BLD • $ 1103 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

Reflect Bistro and Lounge at Cambria Suites Hotel Breakfast, dinner and Happy Hour 4-7 p.m. daily. BD • BAR • $-$$$ 255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC '19

53

dining | restaurant guide Smoke and Porter Public House An American smokehouse wherefarm-to-tableandwholebeastbutcherymeetthefirepits.r.

Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers sandwiches. BLD • $-$$

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,

CADILLAC

245 S BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250

LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020

231.534.8888

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991 Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted wood-fired flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. LD • BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now at a new location. BAR • $ 225 E. 16 ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1239

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. LD • BAR • $$ 13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

Nada’s Gourmet Deli & Mediterranean Cuisine Authentic hummus, tabbouleh, chicken shawarma, falafel, the best baklava in Traverse City. LD • $ 542 W FRONT ST, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.6779

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • $$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960

Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., ST. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4648

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$ 717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

The Silver Swan Ethnic fare and killer desserts. LD • $ 13692 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203

Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. BLD • $ 1333 YELLOW DR., TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.8989

West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay.

LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922

Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. BL • $ 304 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5461

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an alpenhaus-style dining room. LD • BAR • $$ 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563

Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks. LD • BAR • $ 1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575

Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club–style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. LD • BAR • $$ 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5332

Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting. LD • BAR • $ 523 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399 Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1100 28TH ST., MANISTEE, 231.723.8000

The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. D • $-$$ 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843

Dinghy’s Local favorite for 25 years with house-smoked meats including famous ribs, half-pound burger, Big BLT, award-winning Friday fish fry. LD • BAR • $$ 415 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4702

The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and wood-fired pizzas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients. LD• BAR • $-$$ 318 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4121

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114

Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn. BLD • $-$$$ 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090

L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $-$$ 325 MAIN STREET, FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. LD • BAR $-$$ 515 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9136

North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the drawbridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with meats smoked daily and excellent craft beers on tap. LD • BAR $-$$ 86 WASHINGTON ST, MANISTEE, 231.299.1020

BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/THOMPSONVILLE Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Wood-paneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites. BLD

NEW Rock's Landing

Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with ethnic influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. D • BAR $$ 1157 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken, pizza, soups, salads. LD • BAR • $ 14848 THOMPSON AVE., THOMPSON-

Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Tavo and Tarrah Hernandez turned their food truck into a restaurant dream-come-true with ultra-fresh tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas. LD • BAR

Lucky Dog Bar and Grille Burgers, smoked wings, brats, sandwiches, craft beer, cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S. BENZIE

Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib pasta , whitefish, craft beer, regional wines. LD • BAR

Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere.

Steaks, Italian, Mexican. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 10921 MAIN ST., HONOR,

T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for panini, mex and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. LD • BAR •

• BAR • $-$$ M-115, THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000

VILLE, 231.378.2554

BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499

231.227.1200

The Roadhouse Fresh Mex with a cool cantina atmosphere.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US 31), BENZONIA, 231.882.9631

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• $-$$ 344 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4441

• $-$$ 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751

$ 99 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174

Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation Publication Title: Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. 2.

Publication Number: 10713719. 3. Filing Date: 9/23/19. 4. Issue Frequency: monthly. 5. Number of issues published annually: 12. 6. Annual subscription price: $24.95. 7. Complete mailing address of known office of publication (not printer): 125 Park St, suite 155, Traverse City, Grand Traverse County, MI 49684. Contact Person: Erin Lutke Telephone: 231-941-5976.

8. Complete mailing address of headquarters or general business office of publisher (not printer): same 9. Full names and complete mailing addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Deborah Wyatt Fellows, same as above.

Editor: Emily Tyra, same as above. Managing Editor: Elizabeth Edwards, same as above. 10. Owner: Prism Publications, Inc, same as above, Deborah Wyatt Fellows, same as above. 11.

Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders owning or holding 1% or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other securities: none. 12. Tax Status has not changed during preceding 12 months. 13. Publication Title: Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: 10/19. 15. Extent and nature of circulation, Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: a. Total number of copies (net press run): 17,869. b.

Paid circulation: (1) mailed outside-county paid subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541. (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof copies and exchange copies): 13,179. (2) Mailed in-county paid subscriptions stated on Form 3541 (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof copies and exchange copies): 0. (3) Paid distribution outside the mails including sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales, and other paid distribution outside USPS: 4,690. (4) Paid distribution by other classes of mail through the USPS: 0. c. Total paid distribution [sum of 15b. (1), (2), (3), and (4)]: 17,869. d. Free or nominal rate distribution (by mail and outside the mail) (1) OutsideCounty copies included on PS Form 3541: 262. (2) In-County copies included on PS Form 3541: 0. (3) Copies mailed at other classes through the USPS: 0. (4) Free or nominal rate distribution outside the mail (carriers and other means): 0. e.

Total free or nominal rate distribution (sum of 15d (1), (2), (3) and (4)): 262. f. Total distribution (sum of 15c and 15e): 18,131. g. Copies not distributed: 1,439. h. Total (sum of 15f and g): 19,570. i. Percent paid (15c/15f x 100): 98.6%. No. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: a. Total number of copies (net press run): 16,737. b. Paid circulation: (1) Mailed outside-county paid subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541.

(Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof and exchange copies): 12,284. (2) Mailed in-county paid subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541 (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof and exchange copies): 0.

(3) Paid distribution outside the mails including sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales, and other paid distribution outside USPS: 4,453. (4) Paid distribution by other classes of mail through the USPS: 0. c. Total paid distribution [sum of 15b. (1), (2), (3), and (4)]: 16,737. d. Free or nominal rate distribution (by mail and outside the mail) (1) Free or nominal rate outside-county copies included on PS Form 3541: 166. (2) Free or nominal rate in-county copies included on PS Form 3541: 0. (3) Free or nominal rate copies mailed at other classes through the USPS: 0. (4) Free or nominal rate distribution outside the mail (carriers or other means): 0. e. Total free or nominal rate distribution (sum of 15d (1), (2), (3) and (4): 166. f. Total distribution (sum of 15c and 15e): 16,903. g. Copies not distributed: 1,285. h. Total (sum of 15f and g): 18,188. i. Percent paid (15c/15f x 100): 99%. 16.

Electronic Copy Circulation, Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months. a. Paid Electronic Copies: 99. b. Total Paid Print Copies (Line 15c) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a) 17,968. c. Total Print Distribution (Line 15f) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a) 18,230. d. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies) (16b divided by 16c X 100) 98.6%.

I Certify that 50% of all my distributed copies (electronic and print) are paid above a nominal price. Yes. 17. Publication of Statement of Ownership will be printed in the 12/19 issue of this publication. 18. Signature and Title of Editor, Publisher, Business Manager, or Owner: Deborah W. Fellows. Date: 9/24/19. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/ or civil sanctions (including civil penalties).

wine | drinks

local sparklers

Known as traditional method or méthode champenoise, this technique is used to craft Spanish Cavas and French Champagne. A solution of yeast and sugar is added to still wines in bottle to stoke a second fermentation that traps CO2 in solution. Contact with the yeast solids adds complexity to the wine’s texture and aromatics.

MARI VINEYARDS SIMPLICISSIMUS SPARKLING RIESLING 2017 Fine bubbles infused in the electric green apple soul of Old Mission riesling.

tank fermented

bottle fermented

Our northern latitude, sandy soils and short, cool growing seasons spike the natural acidity in wine grapes. While the resulting chemistry makes a challenging metric for producing ripe, fully developed fruit from fickle varieties like pinot noir every year, these same conditions are textbook perfect for sparkling wine. Chardonnay, pinot gris and riesling grapes with zippy acids and bright aromatics yield sparkling wines with verve, freshness and longevity. This month we break down bubbly’s two main methods along with a list of must-sip sparklers to ring in the holidays.

Often called charmat method or cuve close, this is the bubble magic behind effervescent guzzlers like Italian Prosecco. These wines are re-fermented in a pressurized tank, which yields a fresh fruity style.

bigLITTLE TIRE SWING BRUT Dry and zippy with flashy orange blossom and rose notes from a dose of gewürztraminer.

BOWERS HARBOR CUVEE EVAN BLANC DE BLANC 2016

AURORA CELLARS BRUT ROSÉ 2017

A rich, bone dry and biscuity cuvée of 100% chardonnay from Bowers’ Block I vineyard.

Whole cluster pressed pinot noir yields a sexy pink cuvée bursting with tart cherry aromas.

VERTERRA SPARKLER 2013

SHADY LANE SPARKLING RIESLING 2017

More than two years en tirage adds weight and fine bubble structure to this classic blend of chardonnay and pinot noir.

Effusive white peach and melon undercut with hints of spice make this a perfect brunch pairing.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC '19

55

love of the land

Let it Glow Gather your friends for a snowy hike through one of Michigan’s largest remaining stands of virgin white pine.

BY CARLY SIMPSON | PHOTO BY MICHIGAN DEPARTMENT OF NATURAL RESOURCES

H

artwick Pines is one of the largest state parks in the Lower Peninsula, with an area of 9,672 acres. The park’s gently rolling hills and towering forest of old growth pines are just 10 minutes from downtown Grayling, making it a popular recreation spot in all four seasons.

Throughout the winter, the Michigan Department of Natural Resources hosts several two-day snowshoe building workshops, full moon snowshoe hikes and for the first time this year, lantern-lit hikes. During the new lantern hikes, the Visitor Center will be open as a staging area for people to put on their snowshoes, and a fire will be roaring in the Logging Museum for guests to warm up after hiking the beautiful 1.25-mile Old Growth Trail.

“The Full Moon Snowshoe Hikes have been so well attended, it’s unbelievable.

We held one two years ago when the temperature was in the single digits, and we had more than 100 people show up,” says Park Interpreter Craig Kasmer.

We Northerners are a crazy bunch, though, so bundle up and hit the trail!

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SNOWSHOE BUILDING WORKSHOPS ($185) Dec. 7–8, Jan. 4–5, Feb. 1–2, March 14–15 FULL MOON SNOWSHOE HIKES Dec. 14, Jan. 11, Feb. 8, March 7 LANTERN-LIT SNOWSHOE HIKES Dec. 28, Jan. 25, Feb. 22, March 21 Check for winter events at your favorite state parks.

MICHIGAN.GOV/DNR

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T hank you!

I want to thank those of you who make buying and selling a home Up North possible. To my clients, fellow associates, and all the professionals who make the process enjoyable, I couldn’t do it with out you.

Happy Holidays, 231-838-2700

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