Traverse + MAWBY FAMILY FARM
THE HEMINGWAY DAIQUIRI
WHITEFISH PÂTÉ
p.32
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Five Shores Brewing
Eat, Drink, Persevere
Chef Loghan Call
NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE
WELCOM E TO
T H E
C U L I N A R Y
N O R T H
INSIDE
Inspired Life
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$4.5O
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worldly cuisine and wine panoramic views private dining
16th Floor | Grand Traverse Resort and Spa
231-534-6800 | aerierestaurant.com Owned & Operated by the Grand Traverse Band of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians
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DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION work best when Bay Area Contracting and BAC Design Group collaborate and forge their ideas together.
bac-tc.com | bacdesigntc.com Our showroom is currently open by appointment only. Please call us at 231.941.0014 to schedule a consultation.
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joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168
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Traverse 03.21 INSIDE
F E AT U R E S
MyNorth .com DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH, PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.
24 GOOD CALL Chef Loghan's visionary vegan cuisine is rooted in nutrition and sustainability in many ways, including this beautiful pop-up dinner in Leelanau County. B Y G R E G TA S K E R | P H O T O S B Y B E N L A W
30 | BOUNTY HUNTING Fry 'em, whisk 'em, whip 'em. Four ways to cook and celebrate spring's abundance of farm fresh eggs. R E C I P E S B Y E M I LY T Y R A | P H O T O S B Y T O D D Z A W I S T O W S K I
32 | BEER FOR THE PEOPLE Opening a business during a pandemic wasn’t the plan, but Five Shores is glad they chose Beulah, where community makes all the difference. BY CHRIS LOUD | PHOTOS BY JESSE DAVID GREEN
38 | DON'T CALL IT A COMEBACK When the pandemic hit, local food and drink businesses fought back. They share the challenges and triumphs of 2020 (and a few goodies you're going to want to taste this month). B Y C A R LY S I M P S O N
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Thinking of making a move, but don’t know where to start? Let me take the stress out of buying and selling. Let’s talk about the process and see if this is the right time for you.
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Ann Porter ASSOCIATE BROKER
231.944.4959
Ann@AnnPorterTC.com Visit AnnPorterTC.com for more information.
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DE PART M E N T S 7 | EDITOR'S NOTE
45 | THE CULINARY NORTH
9 | UP NORTH
Louie’s corned beef is well worth its salt. Plus, three food and drink pivots we loved this year.
Some of our Red Hot Best 2020 winners share their summer 2021 plans—get ready for sunny outdoor seating and fresh to-go menus.
15 | MARCH EVENTS Try fat tire biking and snowshoeing, or experience a full moon walk.
17 | TRAVEL Sip, savor and slide your way through the North with these culinary-themed outdoor excursions.
19 | UP IN MICHIGAN
49 | ON THE TABLE Summertime’s ubiquitous appetizer—whitefish pâté— is given new life in this spring salad.
51 | LAST CALL
A classic Hemingway-inspired cocktail Michiganders should pour.
52 | LOVE OF THE LAND The Mawby family and Leelanau Conservancy partner to save bucolic farmland.
After 22 years of urban living, Traverse’s new culinary columnist comes home to celebrate Northern Michigan.
23 | OUTDOORS Soak in the feathered sights and songs of spring Up North at these birding locales.
Follow Us On Social Media facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia pinterest.com/mynorthmedia
51 ON THE COVER Spring Greens with Whitefish Toast PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER
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Traverse NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE
A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER
SENIOR EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR CULINARY COLUMNIST DIGITAL CONTENT WRITER
REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS
ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS GRAPHIC DESIGNER WEB DIRECTOR
DIRECTOR OF SALES SALES ACCOUNT COORDINATOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES
MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING COORDINATOR
MYNORTH TICKETS CUSTOMER SUCCESS SPECIALIST
BOOKKEEPER
Deborah Wyatt Fellows Michael Wnek Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell Stacey Brugeman Kaitlyn McLintock Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist
PROOFREADERS
OFFICE MANAGER
Vol. 40 | No. 10
Andrew VanDrie Kandace Chapple Kim Schneider Heather Durocher Tim Hussey Theresa Burau-Baehr
WHEN OUR CLIENTS SPEAK, WE LISTEN. It’s a simple but effective way of helping people reach their financial goals - and it’s a way of doing business that Raymond James has pioneered for more than 50 years. Make your voice count. Partner with one of our financial advisors and get guidance that’s in tune with your life. LIFE WELL PLANNED. Jeff K. Pasche, CFA® Senior Vice President, Investments Western Michigan Complex Manager Susan G. Carlyon, WMS Senior Vice President, Investments ® Wealth Management Specialist James Spencer, ChFC®, AAMS® Financial Advisor
Stoops, AWMA Jeff K.JimPasche, CFA®, CRPC® First Vice President, Investments Rachel Watson Senior Vice President, Investments Claire Houser ® Jennifer Youker, CFP , CRPC® Jen Berigan Traverse City Complex Manager Financial Advisor Dennis J. Brodeur Julie Parker Jennifer Drettmann Vice President, Investments Ann Gatrell Chelsea Harland Wealth Management Specialist Meg Lau Rachel Tramel Trevis E. Gillow Erin Lutke Vice President, Investments Kara Jarvis Wealth Management Specialist Susan Carlyon Emily Oakes First Vice President, Investments Libby Stallman Wealth Management Specialist Kim Stewart Keith Carlyon Senior Vice President, Investments
Maggie Beeler, AAMS®, CRPC® Investment Portfolio Associate Shelley A. Stefanits Complex Administrator Manager West Michigan Complex Courtney C. Davis Client Service Associate Barbara S. Shellman, MBA Sr. Registered Paul M.Client Bonaccini Service Associate
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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Prism Publications Inc., 125 S Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $24.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2021, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.
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NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE
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CHANGES Upgrades to all lifts New snow making Improved tiller COVID-19 Rules
NO CHANGES Unmatched beauty Kid-driven fun Family-friendly prices
231.334.5100 www.thehomesteadresort.com 6
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Editor's Note
Our Resilient North by DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS
photo by Dave Weidner
W
e produced last year’s
annual food issue with only the rumblings in the ether of a virus that had hit overseas. By the time the March 2020 issue of Traverse had been on newsstands for a few weeks, we were in lockdown. Northern Michigan began to shut down. Our staff had all gone home, where they still are. The future was unclear for all of us entrepreneurs, and certainly none more so than those in the food and drink industry. This 2021 food issue finds us all battered but, as is our backbone in Northern Michigan, mostly standing. As such, we wanted to include a feature in this year’s issue that explores the resilience of Northern Michigan’s small food and drink businesses, asking some of them to share the challenges they’ve experienced but also where they have found hope. Each of them shares stories of confusion and uncertainty, but you will find a common thread running through: Gratitude to all the customers, patrons and supporters who stood by them through the darkest times. One such entrepreneurial endeavor featured this month, Five Shores Brewing in Beulah, actually opened in January 2020, just a few months before the pandemic hit. The two partners from Ann Arbor chose Beulah for business reasons; now they work every day to give back to a community that embraced and supported them. One goodbye as a result of the pandemic for us at Traverse is Tim Tebeau’s decision that he can no longer be our food and drink writer. Tim wrote for us as a labor of love; his day job is as a wine merchant, traveling to shops and restaurants around Michigan to share the outstanding wines he represents. As can be imagined, there was not much of that happening from March on. Tim’s first responsibility is to his chosen profession, his family and his parents who own the cherished Esperance in Charlevoix. Being our food writer just couldn’t be in that mix as he went about rebuilding his professional life, and so we’ve said goodbye. All of you who have valued Tim’s voice, his love of language and his food and drink knowledge understand what an invaluable partner he has been. We will
Happy's Taco Shop owners Drue Wright & Drake Nagel.
be forever grateful for Tim’s voice and recommendations, and I know many of us will revisit issues that contain both for years to come. When it became apparent that we were going to lose Tim, I was in a bit of turmoil. Who? Was there another Tim out there in Northern Michigan? I did what I always do and began digging. One day, I can’t tell you even how, I landed on the Instagram account of Stacey Brugeman. I spent hours that afternoon reading the short captions that accompanied photos of her garden, her children, her jars of pickled peppers. I was able to ascertain that Stacey had moved to Michigan in the late fall of 2019 with her husband and three young kids. I read as she chronicled her journey through the winter on a farm in Cedar, the onset of the pandemic and her children staying home from school, the joy of spring and the garden. Her passion for food and place captured me. What I didn’t know until I reached out to Stacey is that she is a food writer by profession. Heading to New York out of college, Stacey worked for Food & Wine and Saveur before moving to Colorado, where she became a food writer and critic for 5280, Denver’s city magazine. I learned that she and her husband met in Northern Michigan where she had vacationed with her family since childhood and that coming “home” had been on the list for both of them. That journey is chronicled in this month’s Up In Michigan essay (page 19). Our first video chat lasted as long as it could, given that her third-grade twin boys were in virtual school and her fourNORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE
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VIRTUAL COOKING CLASSES Discover new dishes and techniques right from your home. We invite you to enroll in one of our interactive classes lead by experienced, local chefs. Cook alongside a friend or plan to meet up virtually. Register online at fustinis.com
year-old daughter’s preschool was temporarily closed. It became obvious from that first chat that Stacey’s children are a top priority and time is at a premium. But knowing that, we kept talking. Before long, Stacey began attending editorial meetings, where the whole team valued her passion for food and her incredibly high standards. And soon, working with Stacey’s time, a whole new approach came to our food and drink departments. On The Table replaces Local Table, and calls upon Stacey’s love of in-season cooking. Last Call, also written by Stacey, rides the wave of gorgeous cocktails, both innovative and classic, and also includes a wine, beer or cider recommendation from the pros in the North. Add to that a spotlight on a restaurant or food purveyor, a new trends section and a delicious small bite, all written by Associate Editor Carly Simpson, and you have our redesigned dining department, The Culinary North. I’ve gotten to work with simply amazing people over the last 40 years, in every part of what we do. I’ve mourned as people move on, particularly those who gave so much, sometimes for decades. But I’ve also learned that Traverse and our MyNorth Media products really do have a life of their own. Each wave of talent puts a stamp on what we do, moving us forward and closer to the elusive challenge of capturing this place of our hearts. New, talented, committed people always come forward, joining our guiding promise to celebrate and protect. When you’ve done something for a long time, and when you’re me, you can see so many mistakes, missteps, things you’d do differently. But I do hope that I have created a place where talent shines, creative energy can be set free, mission binds us all, respect reigns and people are honored to be a part of it all. While the pandemic has brought so much change to the world, I’m grateful to a staff that has kept those values intact. Thanks for joining us, Stacey, and for weaving your love of the North into our future.
Great food begins with quality oil and vinegar. TRAVERSE CITY
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PETOSKEY
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ANN ARBOR
FUSTINIS.COM
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HOLLAND Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/ MyNorth.com. debwf@traversemagazine.com
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Up North.
PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES
Red Hot Best
Dining & Drinks by KAITLYN MCLINTOCK
photo by Lydia Mejia
We checked in with some of our Red Hot Best 2020 winners about their upcoming summer plans. Here’s what you can look forward to. Don’t miss out on voting this year! The final round of Red Hot Best 2021 voting is March 1–14. Vote for your favorites at MyNorth.com/RHB21.
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Up North Northern Michigan
STYLE
TM
Experience a buttery smooth custom build Partner with Preston Feather for a beautifully sleek process with fewer surprises and higher quality. Find the exquisite materials you’re craving from the premium lines we carry, or special orders sourced from any point on the globe. Take a virtual tour of our showrooms.
REGION: ABOVE THE BRIDGE BREAKFAST SPOT
Falling Rock Café & Bookstore in Munising will be open all summer long. Browse their huge collection of new and used books, sip on custom roasted coffee and enjoy homemade food. Order in person, online or by phone. BREWERY
Munising’s ByGeorge Brewing Co. will offer outdoor seating during the summer months or take it to go in the form of 32-ounce cans or 64-ounce growlers. REGION: CADILLAC BREAKFAST SPOT
After 26 Depot Cafe will offer their entire menu to go, and if you’re lucky enough, you might be able to snag an outdoor table, weather depending. HAPPY HOUR
Clam Lake Beer Co. will be open for business as usual this summer. With limited outdoor seating, guests are welcome to snag a seat to stay and sip or take their food and drink to go. REGION: CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES RESTAURANT FOR SPECIAL OCCASION
Corner Bistro will be open for lunch and dinner six days a week (closed on Tuesdays). Stop in to try their elevated, eclectic fare— porch seating is available or take it to go. WINERY
All of the seating at Torch Lake Cellars in Bellaire is outdoors, so you can soak in the sunshine while sipping on one of the various wines and ciders available. There’s even an outdoor bar that’s open on the weekends to help serve customers faster and prepackaged options to take with you. REGION: GAYLORD & GRAYLING
BUILDING CENTERS & DESIGN SHOWROOMS PETOSKEY | HARBOR SPRINGS | GAYLORD | TRAVERSE CITY
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BREWERY
Enjoy the full menu on location at Snowbelt Brewing Co.’s outdoor dining and drinking space, or place an order for carryout.
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Up North PINK PONY, MACKINAC ISLAND
OUTDOOR DINING
Ray’s BBQ, Brews & Blues is located on the banks of the Au Sable River in Grayling. Sit riverside on their outdoor patio and indulge in one of the restaurant’s freshly made dishes. Or, take it with you to go. Either way, we suggest trying the brisket, which is the restaurant’s most popular offering. REGION: LEELANAU BLOODY MARY
Get your delicious drinks at Northern Latitudes Distillery in Lake Leelanau, where outdoor seating will be available. If you’re on-the-go, stop in to get a carry-out cocktail! ICE CREAM SHOP
The summer season wouldn’t be complete without a trip to Blue Moon Ice Cream Shop in Cedar. With several socially distanced areas for outdoor seating available, as well as a variety of ice cream pints to go, you can safely indulge your sweet tooth. REGION: LUDINGTON BREWERY
Fan-favorite Ludington Bay Brewing Co. will offer outdoor seating on its extended patio. On your way out, fill up a growler or snag a six-pack of your favorite beer. RESTAURANT FOR SPECIAL OCCASION
The owners of Table 14 hope to be open and operating at full capacity this summer. While they don’t currently have a to-go menu, they do have patio space available in the summer months. Stop by to try their delectable Southern-inspired dishes. REGION: MACKINAC ISLAND
RESTAURANT
The Roadhouse in Benzonia offers its full menu for carryout, and the outdoor deck and Cantina provide the perfect setting for outdoor drinks and dining. REGION: MARQUETTE BREAKFAST SPOT
Donckers, where great Marquette mornings start, will have outdoor patio space and a full to-go menu available.
PLACE FOR A COCKTAIL
A Mackinac Island favorite, Pink Pony will open its doors on April 30. If indoor dining isn’t permitted by then, expect to be welcomed onto their beautiful outdoor patio. They will also offer their menu to go if indoor dining isn’t an option.
BREWERY
WHITEFISH DISH
REGION: PETOSKEY & HARBOR SPRINGS
Yankee Rebel Tavern, located in the heart of Mackinac Island’s historical downtown, will be opening in late April. While they don’t have outdoor dining, they do offer their full menu for carryout.
photo by Kelly Rewa
REGION: MANISTEE & BENZIE
With lots of outdoor space available, Blackrocks Brewery will be serving its loyal fan base all summer long. Stop in and sip or grab a growler to go.
OUTDOOR DINING
The authentic Polish fare at Legs Inn in Cross Village is not to be missed. While they have yet to finalize the opening date for the summer 2021 season, expect to dine among the same gorgeous gardens with the soul-soaking view of Lake Michigan that you know and love.
BREWERY
Stormcloud Brewing Company in Frankfort will offer outdoor seating at both of its locations for summer 2021 (keep an eye out for the expansion of the outdoor beer garden at the taproom). Take-away food and drink options also available.
WINERY
Sip locally made wine on Walloon Lake Winery’s patio and covered pavilion. After your visit, take home one (or more) of your favorite bottles to enjoy. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE
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2676 Schaef Road, Pierport 640 ft of private, sandy LAKE MICHIGAN frontage on 28 heavily wooded ACRES! This hidden gem can be found in the remote, exclusive area of Pierport, just S of Arcadia and N of Onekama. Only a few are aware to this special location. Welcome to Northern MI’s One-of-a-kind Paradise! Pass by the cherry and apple orchards, the old red barn and wind back on the designated ‘’Natural Beauty Road’’ to this priceless location on the beautiful shore of LK MI. You can be off the grid while minutes from Arcadia Bluffs, the best-of-the-best hiking and biking trails and the peace and quiet you’ve been dreaming of. Over 3,000 sq ft in this architecturally-designed home. 4 BR, 3.5 BA, with a main-floor master BR and laundry, fireplace, the sweetest bunk house over the detached garage, and a timber-framed barn! $1,600,000
We serve up good food and good times! Home of Lucilles’ St. Louis style ribs! Served every Thursday from 5 until 9pm
Open 7 days a week at noon Daily Food & Drink Specials Carry Out - Full Menu Located 1.7 miles east of Crystal Mountain in Historic Downtown Thompsonville
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Traverse City
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Up North
A THRIVING REGION It’s impossible to celebrate our 40th anniversary at Traverse without also honoring the small businesses and nonprofit organizations that have supported our mission throughout the years and who make Northern Michigan such a special place to live and visit. Each month we’ll continue to share these important anniversaries in print, and you can find the full list at MyNorth.com/BizAnniversaries. —A.J. 10 YEARS Traverse Bay Children’s Advocacy Center, Traverse City Yen Yoga & Fitness, Traverse City New Leaf Interiors, Traverse City National Writers Series, Traverse City True North Trout, Boyne City At the Lake, Leland Breakers Resort, St. Ignace Dawn Jacobs, Coldwell Banker Schmidt Realtors, Cadillac Northwoods Hardware, Home & Garden, Glen Arbor 9 YEARS Royal Stag Properties, Grayling Brew, Traverse City 7 Monks Taproom, Traverse City Bay View Flooring & Design Center, Traverse City REGION: TRAVERSE CITY BREAKFAST SPOT
Red Spire Brunch House will continue to offer its beloved brunch classics throughout the summer. Order food to go or eat it in person at the restaurant's expanded outdoor seating area on the lawn of the Grand Traverse Commons. WINERY
With a large property and plenty of outdoor space, Brys Estate hopes guests will be able to taste their locally made wines on the Upper Deck as well as the Lawn Bar. While they don't have wine to go, you can grab a bottle of your favorite vintage on your way out.
CORRECTION:
photo by Dave Weidner
*We always recommend calling or checking online before visiting area businesses to ask about current offerings, hours and COVID-19 regulations.
In the 2021 Medical Insider, we indicated that there are plans to expand the Munson Maternal Fetal Medicine Program into Sault Ste. Marie and Charlevoix. While the Munson Maternal Fetal Medicine Program would like to serve all high-risk pregnancies as close to home as is safely possible, the current hope is to have an outreach clinic in Sault Ste. Marie and one in the midregion of Northern Michigan, not specifically Charlevoix as published.
8 YEARS Livnfresh, Traverse City Northern Latitudes Distillery, Lake Leelanau 7 YEARS Inhabitect, LLC, Northwest Michigan Landmark Books, Traverse City Pets Naturally, Traverse City The Little Fleet, Traverse City St. Michael Academy, Petoskey Rectangles, Traverse City Milk & Honey, Traverse City Ann Porter, Coldwell Banker Schmidt Realtors, Traverse City 6 YEARS Sarah Mahoney, Coldwell Banker Schmidt Realtors, Benzonia Npalliative, Traverse City Acoustic Tap Room, Traverse City The Botanic Garden at Historic Barns Park, Traverse City Rare Bird Brewpub, Traverse City
NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE
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RANDY’S DINER IS THE PLACE FOR OUTSTANDING BURGERS!
for Call date to - ning p u i or d indo ptions o
Gluten Free Burger Buns, White Bread and Flour Tortillas Now Available!
Try Wr Our a the p of Da y!
Call 231-946-0789! WE ARE OPEN FOR CURBSIDE, CARRYOUT & DELIVERIES! Contact DinnerBell or DoorDash for Deliveries
NOTHING’S FINER THAN RANDY’S DINER! PLEASE CHECK OUR WEBSITE OR FACEBOOK PAGE FOR CURRENT HOURS VISIT OUR FACEBOOK PAGE FOR NEWS & SPECIALS
1120 CARVER STREET, TRAVERSE CITY 231.946.0789
Open Year Round CHECK WEBSITE FOR SEASONAL OFFERINGS
Follow us on Instagram and Facebook
727 Main Street • Frankfort, MI 49635 231.399.0399 • BirchandMapleFrankfort.com
(231) 943-8420 • 982 E Commerce Dr. • Traverse City, MI
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TIX Please note, as these dates approach, some events may be modified, postponed or canceled to protect the safety of both event organizers and attendees. Check online or call ahead to confirm details. Throughout the year, find current community happenings at MyNorth.com/Events.
Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.
March edited by LIBBY STALLMAN
photo by Taylor Brown
FRI
If you haven't already, maybe it's time to give fat tire biking on snow a try! The 3K multipurpose trail at Schuss Village is packed for fat biking. shantycreek.com
SAT
TIX Otsego Resort’s Winter Wine Walk features a beautiful snowshoe path (with wine tasting stations along the way) from the historical River Cabin to the beaver dam, where a roaring bonfire awaits. MyNorthTickets.com
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Spend your afternoon on an Old Mission Snowshoe Wine & Brew outing. Park at Jolly Pumpkin to board the TC Brew Bus and start your trek to Brys Estate and Bowers Harbor. tcbrewbus.com Pick up a scavenger hunt activity booklet at Michigan Legacy Art Park to discover artwork that connects to wildlife, natural surroundings and Michigan history. michiganlegacyartpark.org
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Join Chef Ali Lopez, a health and cooking coach, for a virtual demonstration and discussion over Zoom to learn more about stocking a healthy pantry, choosing seasonal ingredients and recognizing nutrient-rich foods. Part of NMC’s Extended Education adult classes; registration required. nmc.edu Interlochen Arts Academy’s popular music ensembles team up with singer-songwriter majors to present an exciting evening of original music. Tune in to the free virtual webcast. tickets.interlochen.org “BLOW UP II: Inflatable Contemporary Art” explores the imaginative ways that air is used as a tool to create largescale sculptures. This exhibit is on display at The Dennos Museum Center Feb. 21–May 16. dennosmuseum.org
FIND MO RE A T MYNORTH.COM > EV ENTS
FRI
The National Writers Series' (virtual) spring schedule includes a conversation with The New York Times bestselling author Imbolo Mbue about her powerful second novel, “How Beautiful We Were.” nationalwritersseries.org
SUN
On Community Appreciation Day at Boyne Mountain, residents in Antrim, Charlevoix, Cheboygan, Emmet and Otsego counties who show valid ID with proof of residency receive a free lift ticket for the day. boynemountain.com
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Crooked Tree Arts Center of Petoskey presents Virtual Coffee @ Ten, with this session recognizing the outstanding works from area youth artists. crookedtree.org Inspired by the book "Owl Moon," this Little Traverse Conservancy event takes guests on a quiet walk under the full moon to embrace the cold silence and many lessons a northwoods winter has to offer. Limit 10 people. landtrust.org
NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE
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Elizabeth Blair Elizabeth Blair
Recipe of the Month from ®
Maple Cream Mustard-Crusted Pork Chops Prep Time: 15 minutes Cook Time: 20 minutes Servings: 4 Thick-cut pork chops stay nice and juicy under their coating of Food For Thought Maple Cream Mustard and Panko. It’s a quick and delicious weeknight entrée - the perfect winter comfort food, and so simple to make with a sweet & spicy flavor that will please the entire family.
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INGREDIENTS: • 1/2 cup Panko or unseasoned bread crumbs • 4 boneless center-cut pork chops (3/4 inch
thick, 1 1/4 pounds total) • 2 Tbsp FFT Maple Cream Mustard, more to
taste or as needed • 3 Tbsp olive oil • Salt and freshly ground pepper
PREPARATION: Preheat the oven to 400 F. Spread the Panko in a shallow dish. Season the pork with salt and pepper. Brush the mustard on both sides of the chops, then press into the Panko, turning to coat both sides evenly. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over medium high. Brown the chops for a minute or two on each side. Slide the skillet into the preheated oven. Cook approximately 20 minutes or until internal temperature reaches 160 degrees. Shop Now at
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Travel
Eat, Drink, Explore by HEATHER JOHNSON DUROCHER
An added bonus to Up North food and drink tours? Many offer opportunities for outdoor excursions either onsite or close by. Here are a few of our favorite ways to sip and savor, understand and appreciate the craft, and get outside and enjoy nature.
WANDER & WINE ON OLD MISSION PENINSULA
When the pandemic led to indoor seating restrictions earlier this year, Brys Estate Vineyard and Winery (3309 Blue Water Rd.), like so many businesses, got creative. Through March 6, hike, snowshoe or cross-country ski the best of Brys Estate’s 111 acres. Two new winter trail options feature views of the vineyard, resting lavender fields and wooded valleys. Stay toasty with an insulated mug of spiked hot cider (a souvenir mug is available for $15, with $5 cider refills) or a glass of wine on the trail. Gather afterward at one of the winery’s outdoor fire pits. The trail is open daily during business hours, 11 a.m.–5 p.m. brysestate.com
photo courtesy of Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery
WATCH & TASTE THE CHOCOLATE MAGIC IN PETOSKEY
While the venerable Northern Michigan chocolate establishment, Kilwins, temporarily suspended its tours this winter due to the pandemic, their Chocolate Kitchen in Petoskey (1050 Bay View Rd.) has remained open and welcomes customers to stop in and watch the team make their famous truffles, chocolates, brittle and other beloved confections. Take a walk or bike ride after your chocolate-tasting fun—just steps away from the chocolate factory, there’s access to the Little Traverse Wheelway, a rail-to-trail paved bike path that runs 26 miles from Charlevoix to Harbor Springs.* kilwins.com *Last April, a portion of the Little Traverse Wheelway was washed out, with erosion damage west of Magnus Park. Plans are in the works to restore the wheelway. RAISE A GLASS & TAKE TO THE TRAILS IN TRAVERSE CITY
For a behind-the-scenes look at a local craft distillery, sign up for one of Traverse City Whiskey Co.’s off-site production facility tours. Offered weekdays at 4 p.m., tours typically last 45 minutes and cost $15/person (tours include a taste of any of their whiskeys—try the American Cherry Edition or limited-
Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery
edition release Barrel Proof Bourbon). Afterward, visit the distillery’s Stillhouse Cocktail Bar (201 E. 14th St.) near downtown for additional libations (outdoor seating available). Just behind the bar on 14th Street, you’ll find access to the four-mile Boardman Lake Trail. Take a relaxing stroll with an optional (highly recommended) stop at The Filling Station for pizza (a 0.9-mile walk from the Stillhouse). tcwhiskey.com EAT, DRINK & EXPLORE LEELANAU
At 17 miles long, the Leelanau Trail provides not only a nonmotorized paved pathway between Suttons Bay and Traverse City, but also the chance to walk and bike to great food and drink destinations. A newer addition to this corridor: Farm Club (10051 S. Lake Leelanau Dr.), a gathering place “to celebrate land, honest food and community.” This farm, restaurant, brewery, bakery and marketplace is seven miles from downtown Traverse City and easily accessed by the Leelanau Trail. If you want to continue your self-guided Leelanau tour, travel five miles farther along the trail and watch for a wine barrel and small square sign featuring a wine glass. Take a right at the next intersection and you’ll be at Shady Lane Cellars (9580 E. Shady Lane). Sip a glass of wine or buy a bottle to go at the newly SIP Certified (Sustainability in Practice) winery, one of only two in Michigan. farmclubtc.com; shadylanecellars.com *Some businesses had temporarily suspended their indoor tours in January when this story was reported. Call ahead or check online for hours and current COVID-19 safety policies. If you can’t visit in person, consider supporting area businesses with online or to-go purchases. Heather Johnson Durocher writes from Traverse City, where she lives with her husband, Joe, and their three kids. She is the founder of the travel and active lifestyle site MichiganRunnerGirl. com and also hosts a weekly podcast. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE
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Up in Michigan The author, shown here in the late 1970s, samples U-Pick Michigan strawberries atop the family Oldsmobile.
The Best Is Yet to Come by STACEY BRUGEMAN
After 22 years of urban living, a food writer comes home to celebrate Northern Michigan.
photo by Jim Nield
M
y husband and i were recently standing around a win-
ter bonfire at Hop Lot in Suttons Bay. Our kids were with my parents for the night and we had settled in with a few (masked) strangers. At one point, the conversation turned to what everyone did for work. I was hesitant. Being a food journalist is a joy, but talking about it can be tricky. When people hear what I do, many ask questions that don’t have absolute answers. “What do you like to cook?” “What’s your favorite restaurant?” The query that really throws me is “What was your most memorable meal?” The question sends me on a trip down memory lane that is too complicated to distill into a polite round of bonfire banter. I grew up downstate, near Detroit. My dad planted a vegetable garden in our suburban lawn and my mom had a scratch-cooked supper ready by six. When it was time to unplug, we’d head North. I learned how to roast marshmallows while camping on Burt Lake and how to live out of a small cooler during a two-night canoe trip down the Au Sable. Eventually, we traded sleeping on the ground for sleeping in bunks, and became regulars at Camp Michigania—where my brother and I would run our cups under all the different Kool-Aid nozzles to create our own special recipe. In the winter months, we would wake before dawn and bomb up to Boyne Highlands for a few ski runs, eating donuts for breakfast on the way. Ultimately, my parents bought a log cabin near Petoskey. I was introduced to the Jelly Roll Blues Band at the Legs Inn, dined at the late great Tapawingo, reeled in my first lake trout and learned how to make Hummers long before I turned 21. When we weren’t sitting around a Northern Michigan campfire, however, my childhood vacations looked different than most. My dad made a machine that was used by egg farmers around the world. In an era where telegrams gave way to fax machines, he traversed the globe making sales calls to remote agricultural villages throughout six of the seven continents. Sometimes, I was lucky enough to tag along. I spent my 15th birthday drinking retsina with townspeople on the streets of Delphi, Greece. The first time I was invited to the back of
the house for a kitchen tour, I was in a Sicilian mountain town where an old stable had been converted into a restaurant. I learned to twist my wrist to prevent a bottle of wine from dripping in Stellenbosch, South Africa. Whether I was 45 degrees below the equator or right here 45 degrees above it, I understood at an early age that food tells us so much about a region’s history, traditions, climate, religion and customs. When people ask about my most memorable meal, I certainly think of cooking with my grandparents and of the Michelin-starred menus I've been lucky enough to hold, but it is the meals we ate during these childhood business trips that inspired my career. Likely because of these trips, I was thirsty for more adventures and left Michigan after I graduated from high school. I spent four years in Charlottesville, Virginia; 10 years in New York City; and another 12 in Denver. Across all of those zip codes, however, I never lost sight of my Midwestern roots. An annual trip Up North was always my most cherished week of the year. In fact, thanks to one such visit, I ultimately married my childhood crush. During our Colorado chapter, despite the extra mileage, Dan and I spent summer vacations exactly as we had as kids—driving around Northern Michigan introducing our own children to Sleeping Bear Dunes, the Soo Locks, the Keweenaw Peninsula and the Petoskey church where we were married. We always found so much peace along the shoreline of our shared home state. In 2016, we bought a fixer-upper farmhouse south of Leland and spent as much time here as possible; and in late 2019, the dream of moving here year-round became a reality. Our return to the Great Lakes State after decades of urban living has been an adjustment, for sure. There is no Instacart grocery delivery in Leelanau County. I cannot ping Uber Eats to bring sushi whenever a craving strikes. We miss Lyft on date night. I’m still figuring out which markets carry what and just how early they close. But we’ve gained so very much. There is a forest of ramps out our back door that will make a blanket of wet leaves bulge later this month. There are herbs in the garden that will reawaken thereafter. Our neighbors to the west farm wine grapes. Our neighbors to the east grow cherries. An older gentleman down the hill drove his three-wheeler over last summer with a bag of cucumbers he couldn’t put by. Dear friends down the way raise pigs and drop off pork chops. Our 9-year-old twin sons brought home a 22-inch
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spawning Coho they caught in Fishtown this fall. And this cook is loving every minute of it. Just as I’d done at my parents’ cabin, we pickle those ramps. Our 4-yearold daughter helped me make tzatziki with the neighbor’s cukes. I sautéed those pork chops with onions, local apples and a smidge of area riesling. We harvested the roe from that salmon and salted our own caviar. After decades of roaming the globe, it tastes so very good to be home. When Traverse asked me to take a few pages for them, it felt like the assignment of a lifetime. Bringing my passion for all things food and beverage to the ingredients and people of this special place is a great honor. In the months to come, I’m excited to celebrate the incredible fish, fruits, vegetables, cheeses, wines and beers that we are lucky to call our own. In time, I hope that when cherries come into season we will think not only of cherry pie, but also of the famed French dessert cherry clafoutis; or of a chilled cherry soup that is beloved in Hungary; or maybe even albalu polow, a Persian rice dish with sour cherries. I hope you’ll join me in making homemade cocktail cherries some summer, which can adorn drinks like the Hemingway Daiquiri, featured in our new Last Call layout (page 51). In our On the Table column, I’m excited to share fresh things to do with old favorites, like oversized croutons that are topped with whitefish pâté for a spring salad this month (page 49). With these recipes and the many that will follow, I encourage readers to think of our ingredient lists as a starting point. If you actually enjoy “the great grocery hunt,” like I do, go for it; but if we suggest Champagne vinegar and all you’ve got is apple cider vinegar, by all means use what you have. Food is meant to be fun. It is meant to encourage conversation. As part of that conversation, I hope we learn—together—that my most memorable meal is yet to come … right here in this gorgeous part of the world I am grateful to call home. Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau Countybased food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. These days, Brugeman is busy feeding her three young kids. Join their dinner conversation on Instagram @staceybrugeman.
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Outdoors
Spring Birding by ALLISON JARRELL
These natural areas and preserves offer some of the best birding in the state—from unique waterfowl to a wide array of migratory species. Start trekking and enjoy the sights and songs of spring in Northern Michigan. WALDRON FEN NATURE PRESERVE
WALDECK ISLAND NATURE PRESERVE, CADILLAC
Waldeck Island Nature Preserve (also known as Rock Preserve), located at Stone Ledge Lake, includes an island, marsh and lakeshore. Waldeck is one of the most productive birding locales in the Cadillac area, featuring a variety of habitats including mature upland hardwoods throughout. The entire area, including the island, is accessible via a trail system—a land bridge allows access to the island and a viewing platform offers an overlook of the marsh. A wide range of birds can be observed, particularly during spring migration. KEHL LAKE NATURAL AREA, NORTHPORT
The 100-year-old hemlocks and old-growth white pines that surround Kehl Lake provide ample food and cover for wildlife, particularly birds. Because of its proximity to Lake Michigan, Kehl Lake is part of a critical flyway for migrating birds (it’s also part of an extensive wildlife corridor of protected lands at the tip of the Leelanau Peninsula). Bird species include canopy birds and waterfowl: look for blackburnian warbler, blue-headed vireo, hermit thrush and the common loon. CHIPPEWA RUN NATURAL AREA, EMPIRE
photo by Darrell Lawson
Chippewa Run is a birding paradise where dozens of species visit or live, including green herons, which nest in a pine grove that was planted in 1953. Chippewa Run is a hotspot in spring and fall for the seasonal north-south bird migration. On a spring morning, you might hear 20 bird species singing—from the melodious meadowlark to the raucous red-winged blackbird. WALDRON FEN NATURE PRESERVE, ALANSON
This 145-acre preserve east of Petoskey lies along the Sunset Coast Birding Trail (sunsetcoastbirdingtrail.org) and includes two ponds, a large wetland-fen complex, native grasslands and associated forests that provide habitat for at least 116 resident
and migratory bird species. The trail loop takes visitors around the primary wetlands, offering opportunities to see birds like the American kestrel and upland sandpiper. SEARCH BAY NATURE PRESERVE, HIAWATHA NATIONAL FOREST
Located west of Hessel, this preserve, positioned on the northern Lake Huron shoreline, is a migration hotspot and includes a nature preserve, national forest and campground. More than 18 warbler species have been spotted in a single day at this site, which sits along the North Huron Birding Trail (northhuronbirding.com). Philadelphia vireo, scarlet tanager, winter wren and raptors such as the broad-winged hawk and the northern goshawk can also be seen. ARCADIA MARSH NATURE PRESERVE, ARCADIA
More than 250 species of birds have been spotted at this 313-acre nature preserve, including 17 listed as endangered, threatened or of special concern. A universal access boardwalk allows everyone to enjoy birdwatching at the preserve. While the center section of this boardwalk is closed from April 15 to July 15 to protect sensitive nesting birds, much of the boardwalk is still open and available during this time. CHOCOLAY BAYOU NATURE PRESERVE, MARQUETTE COUNTY
The Chocolay Bayou Nature Preserve was acquired with significant help from the Audubon Society and local birding community. It provides critical stopover habitat for migrating waterfowl and protection for neotropical migrant warblers as they make their biannual treks. The preserve features a birding trail with 11 interpretive signs that describe typical birds seen there and their habitats. For more information, including directions, visit MyNorth.com/SpringBirding. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE
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Chef Loghan Call sees food as medicine, and his business, Planted Cuisine, is committed to sharing that message.
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Good Call
Inspired by Northern Michigan’s rich and bountiful landscape, CHEF LOGHAN CALL
shares his visionary vegan cuisine, rooted in nutrition and sustainability.
by GREG TASKER photos by BEN LAW
i
t seems appropriate that Loghan Call, a chef passionate about building a regenerative food system, would plant himself in northwest lower Michigan, a largely rural community that has long embraced the bounty of the rolling, bucolic landscape: acres and acres of cherry and fruit orchards, flowing fields of corn and grains, gardens brimming with berries and vegetables, and forests thick with mushrooms and other edibles. The abundance and that connection to the land—and the lakes, for that matter—has sprouted mom-and-pop farms, niche food entrepreneurs and a farm-to-table movement that consistently ranks Traverse City among the top foodie towns in the country. Less publicized, and perhaps far lesser-known, are efforts to cultivate organic fruits and vegetables and create a healthy food system that begins to put soil health first.
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Call grew up in a world that valued seasonal foods and is passionate about passing that on to others.
Call has introduced people to the idea that we need to have sustainable agriculture and food systems and to put energy into making our soil and our diets healthier.
And that’s where the youthful Call comes in, spreading the word, plate by plate, about the importance of healthy, nutrient-rich foods and creating a regenerative food system. He sees food as medicine, and his business, Planted Cuisine, serves as the conduit for his message with pop-up dinners, culinary experiences, education and community building. His multi-course meals are 100 percent plant-based, locally sourced and incorporate food as medicine principles. “I think we offer an approachable philosophy to healthier food choices,” says Call, 31, who has made Traverse City his home. “The dinner experiences are about getting people to think more about their food choices, inspiring them to cook for themselves and to point them toward the content we are creating to help them connect in those ways.” Call’s path to promoting healthy eating and regenerative food systems is rooted in his childhood. He grew up in upstate New York on a small patch of land lush with fruits, vegetables, edible flowers and herbs. He picked seasonal produce and worked under the guidance of his mother, Naomi Call, who was a chef at the time. The family eventually moved to California, where Call pursued a career in the media before his “aha” moment. A visit to a farm while studying global sustainability at
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UCLA reconnected him to the source of food and the importance of healthy soil. Planted Cuisine took root. “Our bodies aren’t counting calories, but nutrients,” Call says. “The healthier the soil, the more nutrients each bite of food has. By working with our incredible local farming community, we’re able to serve up the most nutrient-dense foods while sharing that educational piece in a setting where folks are engaged and excited to learn.” The lanky Call arrived in Traverse City a few years ago at the urging of a food-minded friend, Taylor Moore, who needed an executive chef at Goodwill Industries. Call and Moore had crossed food paths in Southern California. Moore oversees Goodwill’s Food Rescue, which retrieves soon-to-expire, fresh and nutritious food from a host of stores, farms and bakeries for distribution to food pantries and community meal centers in five Northwest Michigan counties. He sold Call on the region and the aspiring chef moved here, sight unseen. Call spent about seven months at the Goodwill job, learning essential commercial kitchen skills. “It was an incredible system to learn from,” he recalls. “It was a departure from what I had been doing. I really needed to gain traditional commercial kitchen experience. It was a welcome introduction to the area.”
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Recipes from
He soon relaunched Planted Cuisine, working with local farms to secure fresh produce and other ingredients. His sources include his mother’s Alchemy Farms in Maple City, where she grows edible flowers and medicinal herbs. With his popup dinners and other endeavors, he quickly immersed himself in the local food community, not only working with growers but also with a host of nonprofit groups with various food goals in mind. “The work he has done with Planted Cuisine has been an asset to the community,” says Meghan McDermott, director of programs for Groundwork Center for Resilient Communities, a nonprofit organization that strives to provide innovative solutions to environmental, health and community issues. “Tasting his delicious food has raised awareness of food and farming … how good vegan food can be and the impact growing food has on the land, how we consumers can support practices that promote the health of the land.” Call was tapped last fall to help Groundwork with its annual farm-to-table fundraiser, Harvest at the Commons. Because of the COVID-19 pandemic, the event was held virtually, with Call preparing food boxes for participants and giving a virtual presentation on preparing and cooking the meal. “He’s so engaging in his conversation,” McDermott says. “He creates a great sense of place, and you can tell he cares deeply about the community and wants to honor and acknowledge the growers that make this place unique. There’s so much more than just farm to table. He helps tell more of the story and takes what he does to heart.”
A DELICIOUS POP-UP Call’s calendar of pop-up dinners and live educational programs was disrupted last year by the pandemic, but he managed one experiential dinner before the onset of winter. Collaborating with friends Justin and Colleen
Chef Loghan Call TURNIP AIOLI Serves 6 people I was inspired not only by trying to find creative ways to utilize turnips during Michigan winters, but also by creating a delicious aioli without using animal products. This tangy, garlicky sauce is perfect for a wide range of uses and is quite healthy for you! The raw garlic and lemon are both excellent, and turnips themselves offer up a nutrient profile that we don’t interact with as much, particularly as Americans. Turnips are naturally a bit bitter and mildly sweet, which brings a great profile to this sauce.
GREEN MASHED POTATOES Serves 2 people with leftovers or 4 individual servings For this recipe, I encourage you to use the same methods you always do when making mashed potatoes, ensuring you use freshly peeled, raw garlic and adding in the greens. Any leafy greens (except lettuces) can be subbed into this dish. Having raw greens in any dish is always beneficial to your health. Raw garlic is also important, particularly in the cooler months when your immune system is under more stress. Please note: To avoid using fat, a good vegetable stock is a great substitute. You could also throw in some sautéed onions before mashing. Onions have a rich flavor profile that can help replace the fatty deliciousness that a butter or oil brings to a dish.
TURMERIC & AMARANTH RICE Serves 4-6 people This recipe is a simple way to elevate rice by adding a couple of food-asmedicine ingredients/principles. Turmeric is one of the most important foods to eat and is easily incorporated into rice. The addition of amaranth brings a complete protein to the dish.
2 medium turnips (about 1 pound) 3 tablespoons extra virgin, cold-pressed olive oil 3 cloves garlic Juice of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon salt A few twists of black pepper Cube turnips and boil in a medium pot on medium/high heat until soft and tender. Drain extra liquid. Ensure the turnips are about room temperature before blending. Combine all ingredients in a blender (Magic Bullet or whatever you might have) and blend until silky smooth. Be sure you cool to room temp before storing in the fridge.
2 pounds potatoes 1/2 cup minced parsley 1/2 cup chopped green onion 4 cloves minced or pressed garlic 3 tablespoons plant-based butter/ olive oil/grass-fed butter Salt and pepper to taste Chop potatoes and bring to a boil in a medium saucepan with some salt. Cook until tender. Strain all liquid and put the potatoes back in the pot. Add in butter and cover until it’s melted. Add in parsley, green onion, garlic, salt and pepper. Mash using a hand masher or electric mixer. Taste and adjust salt and pepper according to desired levels. Cover and enjoy soon. Otherwise, you can put them in the oven at 250 degrees or lower to reheat.
Rinse rice and combine all ingredients in a rice cooker; stir to ensure the amaranth and turmeric are incorporated. Follow rice cooker directions, fluff once done, cover and then serve. If on a stovetop, add another cup of water, bring to a boil, stir (to ensure no sticking) and reduce to a simmer until tender (typically 35 minutes). Fluff, then cover again before serving.
2 ½ cups water 2 cups white rice (sub brown rice by adjusting the water ratio to 3 ½ cups) 1/4 cup amaranth 1 teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon salt A few twists of cracked black pepper
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Shull, Call hosted a dinner at their six-acre farm and studio outside Traverse City. The couple, relocated from California, grows tomatoes, peppers, root vegetables, greens, radishes and berries at their Silver Lake Farmstead, a former dairy farm. They’ve also started a small community agricultural program. A couple dozen people gathered around carefully spaced wooden tables on the farm grounds for a four-course meal—a dinner created entirely from plant-based and locally sourced foods, some ingredients coming from the surrounding gardens. The first course, a salad, was a blend of mixed greens, spinach and wild rice (sourced from indigenous tribes), topped with a creamy roasted carrot and jalapeño dressing. With cooler temperatures that evening, the second course called for comfort food: A northern white bean puree cooked in turmeric, black lentils with fresh ground cumin, three types
of mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus. “A lot of thought go es into each component,” Call explains. “The goal is to tee people up for an enjoyable experience of food they might not otherwise be familiar with.” Dessert consisted of a c h o c o l a t e m o u s s e, m a d e with chocolate from Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate in nearby Empire, and a pumpkin puree, ginger and pear chutney. The pumpkin and heirloom pears were among the produce picked from the Shull’s property. “Most of the people who came were expecting a farm potluck,” says Colleen Shull, who, along with her husband, is a landscape painter. “They were so surprised at how fancy it was. They didn’t expect courses that were so artistic. Since I’m an artist, I really appreciated the artistry of his food, how he displayed the food on the plate and how beautiful it looked … and everyone loved the food.”
His plated creations offer a cornucopia of flavors, with colors as bright as a rainbow, taking advantage of the natural colors of the plant kingdom.
Call recently held a four-course popup dinner at Silver Lake Farmstead, just outside Traverse City, created entirely from plant-based locally sourced ingredients.
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“When a course arrives at someone’s table, it looks beautiful and it tastes delicious, but, honestly, I can look them in the eye and tell them you can do this at home,” Call says. “The barriers are not that big.”
HEALTHIER HORIZONS
Call’s plated creations offer a cornucopia of flavors, with colors as bright as a rainbow, taking advantage of the natural colors of the plant kingdom. Before each course, he asks guests to wait before taking that first bite, allowing him to explain the ingredients and their health benefits. He also encourages guests to slow down and practice mindful eating, and, well, have fun.
With his pop-up dinners and other outdoor experiences disrupted by the pandemic, Call had to pivot, rethinking some aspects of his growing business. He remains focused on spreading awareness of how important well-grown, well-sourced foods are for the health resiliency of individuals and the community. With the pandemic lingering, he plans to continue private consultation, online digital education and a podcast series. The latter will continue to expand its focus to bring in the voices of farmers, chefs and physicians—storytelling with the power of the three professions working together. So far, he’s produced several podcasts, interviewing people immersed in various aspects of the local food scene, including his long-time friend, Moore. “I think Loghan has definitely had an impact on the community,” says Moore, who pursued a culinary career before turning to nonprofits. “He has introduced people to plant-based diets. He has introduced people to the idea that we need to have sustainable agriculture and food systems and to put energy into making our soil and our diets healthier. Those are things Loghan is vocal about. His is a voice I was not hearing in this area before.” It’s a voice that, in a short time, has inspired plenty of people in Northwest Michigan. Call remains committed to encouraging people to cook at home with locally sourced ingredients, while helping them to understand the connection between soil health and human health. “We want to inspire people to cook again and eat in their homes as much as possible,” he says. “We’re two generations removed from knowing how to cook. We want to build the foundation of understanding how to source properly and then finding a path forward that doesn’t seem overwhelming in the home kitchen. The beautiful thing about working in harmony with nature, is that once you get a taste and an understanding of what food can and should be, it’s like a light flips on and your body lights up. It’s all about setting the stage and getting folks to take that first bite.” Greg Tasker is a Traverse City-based freelance writer and works part time at a winery on the Leelanau Peninsula. Ben Law is a wedding and portrait photographer out of Traverse City. Follow him on Instragram @benlawphotography. benlawphotography.com.
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Bounty Hunting Fried, Whisked, Whipped Spring’s daylight delivers farm fresh eggs.
RECIPES BY EMILY TYRA / PHOTOS BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI
F
resh eggs are nature’s perfectly executed nourishment. And as an ingredient, they’re amazingly versatile—delicious when fried sunny-side-up, whisked into a custard or whipped into meringue. While Michigan eggs may be available year-round at the supermarket, they’re actually seasonal. Chickens begin laying more eggs in spring due to extra daylight hours—they need about 14 hours of light a day to produce eggs—and warmer temps. In celebration of spring, and these beautiful little ovals, we’re sharing four ways to cook farm fresh eggs.
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GREENS WITH HARD-BOILED EGGS AND PROSCIUTTO
Serves 4 This salad tastes fantastic with a poached egg on top, too. Feel free to substitute extra-crisp bacon or rendered bits of pancetta for the prosciutto.
In a small bowl, whisk together tarragon, Dijon mustard, sea salt, red wine vinegar and olive oil. In a large bowl, toss the greens with enough of the dressing to coat them lightly. Divide the salad onto four plates and top with hard-boiled egg slices and prosciutto pieces. Add freshly ground pepper and chives to taste.
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1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard Pinch sea salt 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 pound mixed greens 4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced 1/2 cup prosciutto, sliced and crisped in a pan with olive oil Freshly ground black pepper Snipped fresh chives for garnish
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ALMOND MERINGUES
Makes 3 dozen These melt-in-your-mouth meringues taste like perfectly toasted marshmallows with the subtle hint of almond extract. 4 large egg whites 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar 1/2 cup granulated sugar 3/4 cup powdered sugar 1 teaspoon almond extract
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Preheat oven to 225°F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper. Place egg whites and cream of tartar in a large bowl and beat with mixer until soft peaks form. Increase speed to high and add granulated sugar, then powdered sugar 1 tablespoon at a time until stiff peaks form. Add almond extract and beat just until blended. Drop 36 mounds onto the baking sheets lined with parchment, then place one almond slice on top of each meringue. Bake at 225°F for 1 1/2 hours. Turn oven off and cool meringues in closed oven for two hours.
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ASPARAGUS-LEEK BREAD PUDDING
Serves 8 This savory version of bread pudding is crusty brown on top, soft and fluffy inside and bursting with two of spring’s first flavors. 2 tablespoons butter 2 small leeks, cleaned and sliced (white and light green parts only) 5 eggs 2 1/2 cups milk 1 cup heavy cream 1 pound asparagus, cut into pieces 1 pound dry bread, cut into cubes 1/2 pound fontina cheese, shredded 1/8 cup fresh chives, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, chopped 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest Pinch cayenne Pinch salt Freshly ground black pepper Preheat the oven to 375°F. Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook until tender. Set aside. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk and cream. Add the remaining ingredients and the leeks, and gently toss together. Spread the mixture into a 4-quart soufflé dish, or a 13-by-9-inch baking dish. Put the dish on a baking sheet and bake until the top is golden brown and a knife inserted in the middle comes out clean, 45 to 55 minutes. Cover bread pudding with foil if it browns too quickly.
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In Northern Michigan, many local farms have fresh eggs available for purchase, such as Cook Family Farm in Gaylord. Find a farm near you using Taste the Local Difference’s directory at localdifference.org/find-food-farms/
LAVENDER CRÈME BRÛLÉE
Serves 6 Delicate lavender infuses this classic custard dessert. 8 lavender flower stems, fresh or dried 2 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream 8 egg yolks 1/4 cup granulated sugar 3 tablespoons superfine or confectioner’s sugar for topping
to make a water bath and bake at 350°F for 20 to 25 minutes, until the custards are set. Transfer cooled dishes to the refrigerator and let chill for three hours. Before serving, sprinkle the custards with sugar and caramelize with a butane torch.
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Preheat oven to 350°F. Pull lavender flowers off their stems and place in a saucepan with the cream. Slowly bring the cream almost to a boil. Remove from heat and let stand to allow the lavender to infuse the cream. Use a whisk to mix the egg yolks and granulated sugar in a bowl. Reheat the cream, then gradually mix it into the yolk-sugar mixture, stirring continuously. Place six heatproof ramekins in a baking pan and strain the custard into the dishes. Carefully pour water around the ramekins
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by Chris Loud / photos by Jesse David Green
Beer for the People. Five Shores Brewing—a beloved addition to Benzie County’s craft beverage scene
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Award-winning brewmaster Oliver Roberts, along with his business partner Matt Demorest, opened Five Shores Brewing in January 2020— surviving the pandemic thanks to a supportive community.
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Hiding out on Crystal Lake’s eastern end, in the heart of Benzie County, the village of Beulah is a deeply Northern Michigan town, in a deeply Northern Michigan county. The classic downtown’s sustained look benefits from just enough of a buffered bypass from the main road (U.S. 31). And like all towns, Beulah has stories to tell, most famously, an attempt to build a canal that caused the unintentional drainage of Crystal Lake in the late 1800s. Flat, treeless land was exposed in the process, perfect for a railroad, and a village grew upon land once a part of the lake. The stories expanded over the decades to include farmers who sought the fertile soil, merchants who set up shop and vacationers who came in search of fresh air and cool waters. Through it all, the town has stayed small, with charming shops and creative entrepreneurs. And now, the story of Beulah includes that of award-winning brewmaster Oliver Roberts, his business partner Matt Demorest and Five Shores Brewing. For Roberts and Demorest, it’s all about getting the story to the people. Everything is intentional at Five Shores, and their mission is to do more than sell great beer; it’s also to provide a community center for Beulah, where people can come together, enjoy and support each other, and share stories of their own. Sitting at the long, L-shaped bar inside Five Shores Brewing, the decidedly coastal vibe at first seems out of place; Beulah is inland from the big waters of Lake Michigan. However, people stopping in are often coming to and from the large Lake Michigan beaches in nearby Frankfort, Arcadia to the south, or Empire to the north. Plus, the waves of Crystal Lake, Michigan’s ninth-largest inland lake, can be seen lapping onshore just across the
plenty of room to settle down and sample the eclectic beer selection, or indulge in shareable eats. Five Shores also has a nice selection of locally produced ciders, wines and mead. It’s comfortable, modern and the branding is so on point it feels like the business has been around forever, despite having only opened in January 2020. This well-established feeling didn’t happen by chance, though Roberts’ and Demorest’s first meeting was a bit random. “Five Shores began at a Michigan/Michigan State tailgate three years ago,” Roberts remembers. “I was introduced to Matt, my good friend’s brother-in-law, and we got to talking craft beer. We had a meeting a week or so later and the business that would become Five Shores Brewing was born. We really dug into what it meant to be a craft beer and brewery fan when we designed Five Shores as a space, as well as our
EVERYTHING IS INTENTIONAL AT FIVE SHORES, AND THEIR MISSION IS TO DO MORE THAN SELL GREAT BEER. street. Through the garage door that slides up for a more open-air feel at the bar, you’re just waiting for someone carrying a SUP board to saunter in, tracking sand onto the polished concrete floors. The vibe starts to make perfect sense. The space breathes easily in a renovated, 1950s Quonsetstyle building, with tall ceilings and exposed rafters reaching up to the arched roof, a signature of the Quonset. Outside, you can enjoy a drink on the side deck, out on the large lawn set with picnic tables or at a table on the sidewalk in front. There’s
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approach to customer service and the types of beer we brew.” The partners make for a perfect pairing. Demorest heads the operations and brand development. In 2014, he built his startup mortgage business from the ground up, and before long became a nationally recognized business leader. But, in addition to being the proud father of five, he’s a beer guy, make no mistake. Roberts had spent a decade brewing beer for Wolverine State Brewing Co., Michigan’s first all-lager craft brewery, in
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The ingredients in Five Shores’ beers are sourced locally whenever possible, with some components coming from just a few miles away.
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SEEING ALL THE PEOPLE IN THE BEER GARDEN IN THE SUMMER, BEING ABLE TO BE OUTSIDE AND FEEL SAFE ABOUT VISITING A BREWERY, THAT WAS ONE OF THE MOST MEMORABLE EXPERIENCES. Ann Arbor. While brewmaster at WSBC, he won gold, silver and bronze medals at the Great American Beer Festival, the largest beer competition in the U.S., and a bronze medal at the 2016 World Beer Cup, the world’s largest and most reputable beer competition. In addition to many local and regional awards, Roberts’ Gulo Gulo India Pale Lager was named a Top 25 Beer in the U.S. by DRAFT magazine. In short, this isn’t his first rodeo. So, as you can imagine, tasting beers from an award-winning brewmaster was the top priority on my visit. Two flights, delivered in wooden accessory bin-style boxes, and one bonus glass covered all the beers on the menu that day. The ingredients in Five Shores’ beers are sourced locally whenever possible, with some components coming from just a few miles away. “We use as many local ingredients as we can including
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malt from the two local malthouses in Traverse City and the other in Empire,” Roberts says. “As well as sourcing the majority of our hops from MI Local Hops in Williamsburg.” All the beers have short phrase-like names. Roberts says his development process can be unique because he often starts with a story, or even just a name. So, rather than brew a beer, taste it and find a name, he structures the beer toward the story, or name, allowing for a more intentional process. “We do put a lot of focus on hop-forward, modern IPAs, fruited beers and lagers,” Roberts says. “The library of classic styles of beer is great to work with, but the definition of what beer is has changed so much in the past five to 10 years. We are able to really look to other breweries and taste trends from all over the food and beverage industry.”
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Beyond offering an eclectic selection of beers brewed onsite, Five Shores is also a community hub—a place where people can meet and share stories.
It was more than appropriate for my tasting to start with the lager, after learning about Roberts and his all-lager brewery days with WSBC. The Local Legend, as it’s called, says a lot right off the bat about how they are approaching their business. It’s a classic American Lager, meant for those who don’t necessarily dive deep into craft beer, but just want to enjoy a familiar beer in their local pub, or grab easy drinks and food as they pass through town. The description on the menu literally says, “I don’t drink craft beer, got anything like a_____.” So instead of responding with, “No, we don’t, but try this super intense IPA,” they say, “Here’s our take on it, enjoy.” It’s a clear sign of their commitment to being a community hub and finding something for everyone. Oh yeah, and it’s good. It’s everything you want in an American Lager, and it’s now available in cans. Another beer that struck me was the Every Five - v2, a dry-
hopped IPA. It’s very smooth despite a 7.2% ABV and packs a citrusy punch without overwhelming. It’s a well-balanced IPA that’s worthy of a six-pack takeaway. The sour, Between Stars, was also impressive. As somewhat of a sour beer hater, I actually really liked it. The bartender expressed similar sourness on sours, but she also concurred on this one’s ability to surprise even the most sour-hating haters. The lactic sour notes are mild, with forward berry aromas and flavors. Hot summer days would love a Between Stars. The Balaton Mile is the dark cherry ale. It’s not technically a stout but acts like a stout. What I loved was the dark cherry aspect. In Northern Michigan, cherries are synonymous with summer, but this stout-like dark cherry ale drinks for a cold and cozy happy hour, with winds off the shore and maybe even a few inches of the white stuff outside. Also, don’t forget to flip the menu for even more seasonally appropriate drinks,
including ciders, meads and wines. Speaking of the menu, the food is all about togetherness, with shareables like large plates of chips and dip, mac and cheese and a killer German-style pretzel about the size of this magazine you’re reading. They also have soups for the colder days and an easy kids’ menu. If you’re not familiar with Beulah as the tucked-away oasis that it is, you might be asking, “Ok, they know how to run a great brewery, but why did they choose Beulah?” It’s a fair question, especially coming from Ann Arbor to the slower paces of South Benzie Boulevard. It’s a much simpler answer than you might think. “We chose Beulah for a number of reasons,” Roberts says. “A big one was the building we purchased. It had been sitting vacant for over 30 years and the consensus was that it ‘just needed to be a brewery!’ Also, Benzie County is a hidden gem. Between the other breweries, wineries and distilleries in the county, Beulah was a little gap in a great craft beverage landscape. With that opportunity, along with the building, the proximity to Crystal Lake and the incredible support from the community, we knew we had something special to build a great brewery and business on.” It’s the concept of building something beyond just a structure, and brewing something beyond just beer, that brings this back full circle to the story that is a town like Beulah. Remember when we said Five Shores opened in January 2020? That meant they were just trying to get established when a worldwide pandemic hit. “The community in Beulah, and really all over Michigan, that knows Five Shores has been the best part of this time,” Roberts says. “Customers and fans have stuck with us through the changes and challenges we’ve faced. They’ve continued to be positive and understanding of the restrictions, and stuck with us as we reinvented our model for that summer, and leading into the end of fall, winter and spring. Seeing all the people in the beer garden in the summer, being able to be outside and feel safe about visiting a brewery, that was one of the most memorable experiences.” For the future, Five Shores is starting small with self-distribution, and they hope to do special can releases as well. Like any brewery, they’re always looking to keep things fresh, but with a focus on their roots in the community that supported them through an incredibly challenging first year. I’m sure Five Shores will continue to pay it forward to their loyal customers for many years, providing a place for locals and passersby to sit, drink and share stories. Chris Loud is the co-founder of The Boardman Review and writes from Traverse City. Follow him @cfloud on Instagram. Jesse David Green is a photographer based in West Village Detroit. He shoots commercial, wedding and lifestyle photography. handcar.co.
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WHEN THE PANDEMIC HIT, LOCAL FOOD AND DRINK BUSINESSES PUT ON THE GLOVES.
DON'T CALL IT A
COMEBACK
BY CARLY SIMPSON
ONE LONG YEAR AFTER THE FIRST CASE OF COVID-19 WAS CONFIRMED IN MICHIGAN, SOME BUSINESSES HAVE CLOSED THEIR DOORS PERMANENTLY AND OTHERS ARE STILL STRUGGLING. YET DESPITE THE FEAR AND UNCERTAINTY CAUSED BY THE PANDEMIC, OR PERHAPS IN DEFIANCE OF IT, THERE ARE ALSO STORIES OF SUCCESS AND GRATITUDE. WE TALKED WITH A RESTAURATEUR, FARMER, GROCER, WINEMAKER, BREWER AND OTHERS WHO SHARE SOME OF THE CHALLENGES OF 2020, THE TRIUMPHS AND A FEW GOODIES YOU’RE GOING TO WANT TO TASTE THIS MONTH.
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D I S T I L L E RY :
Iron Fish Distillery 14234 DZUIBANEK RD., THOMPSONVILLE IRONFISHDISTILLERY.COM PARTNER: SARAH ANDERSON
MOST PROUD OF: I believe our team has so much to be proud of, but first and foremost was our incredibly quick pivot to producing hand sanitizer when our region was in desperate, dire need. We ended up being the exclusive supplier to the Munson Healthcare system at a critical period of time and donated over 500 gallons of hand sanitizer to regional frontline workers and nonprofits. We created connections to communities and people we never dreamed of, and so many other regional businesses were there to help us get it done. Being able to help when things are scary and hopeless, it was a gift everyone at Iron Fish will be eternally grateful for.
PAIR IT: A Thistle Burger from Thistle Pub and Grille at Crystal Mountain. We are lucky to have Crystal Mountain as our neighbors at the distillery (2.5 miles away), especially now because the takeout food they offer is amazing! The Thistle Burger is local beef, topped with Guinness Cheddar. The spirit-forward sweetness of the salted maple old f ashioned is a perfect complement.
G R O C E RY S T O R E :
Hansen Foods of Suttons Bay 91 W. FOURTH ST., SUTTONS BAY HANSENFOODSOFSB.COM OWNERS: CONNIE FROST, COREY FROST, DANI FROST-DERIGIOTIS, DAN DERIGIOTIS
MOST PROUD OF: We quickly adjusted to offer curbside service. We nailed down a system that worked for us, all while still getting items to customers in an efficient manner. Unlike corporate stores that have third-party outside help to make this service work, our own staff was doing everything to fulfill orders. From responding to emails, taking orders over the phone, shopping and checking out items, processing payments and carrying the orders out to vehicles ... it truly was a team effort we are proud of. The willingness of our staff to adjust, all while keeping our normal daily operations flowing, was (and still is) commendable.
photo by Andy Wakeman
FAVE COCKTAIL TO MAKE AT HOME: A salted maple old fashioned. This cozy sipper combines our bourbon finished in maple syrup barrels, our barrelaged maple syrup and our barrel-aged aromatic bitters! The glorious trifecta is topped with a few flakes of highquality salt and an orange peel.
Sarah Anderson
GROCERY SHORTAGES: The shortages we experienced were a major problem. We had maximum allocation amounts that we could order on highdemand items. Our allotment was at times one case of an item. If that allotted case held 12 units, that meant only 12 shoppers would receive it. At times we were running out of items moments after we stocked them on our shelves. In turn, this meant an entire week would go by before we were allotted another case. And the cycle continued. It was frustrating to us and frustrating to the public. We still have limits in place on items like rubbing alcohol, disinfectant wipes and paper products. Some brands are foreseeing shortages that could run all the way into summer 2021. SOMEONE YOU’D LIKE TO THANK: We have to foremost thank our incredible staff for sticking with us. Many of them could have decided to not show up, but their loyalty to us and their dedication to the community is truly remarkable and unforgettable. We have also received countless thanks from our customers. From handwritten letters, generous gratuities and positive words—it means so much to all of us.
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NEW RESTAURANT:
The Flying Noodle 136 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY FLYINGNOODLETC.COM MANAGING PARTNER: HEATHER DZIEDZIC
OPENING A RESTAURANT IN THE MIDST OF A PANDEMIC: It was constant juggling. When construction was able to begin again (after a three-month pause), we had to find staff, get food and tableware ordered with a broken supply chain—there were a lot of moving parts. We are grateful to have come out on the other side with an open and operating business. MOST PROUD OF: Our team, showing up every day, serving the public, especially when we had no idea exactly what this pandemic meant for our health and safety.
photo by Dave Weidner
SOMEONE YOU’D LIKE TO THANK: Our regulars whose names keep showing up on our caller ID, placing orders week after week. Those who shopped small this holiday season—every gift card, T-shirt and limoncello helped us stay afloat, supporting our staff and their families. Jean Derenzy and the DDA team, for undertaking the task of blocking off Front Street so we could have outdoor dining last summer. A MUST-TRY THIS MONTH: I highly recommend giving our pizzas a try. The dough is light and airy while the cheese lends richness and an awesome crunch as it melts down the sides of the pan and crisps to perfection. Many of you have gotten to try it as carryout, but there is nothing like it fresh out of the oven.
C I D E RY :
Townline Ciderworks 11595 US-31, WILLIAMSBURG TOWNLINECIDERWORKS.COM CO-OWNER/GENERAL MANAGER: KRISTIE ALTONEN
MOST PROUD OF: We’re proud about just surviving 2020. But, we did more than that, like so many other local businesses; we continued to pivot and change over and over as the regulations changed. And our customers continued to show up, over and over. For that, we are so grateful. SOMEONE YOU’D LIKE TO THANK: We had two friends, Tim Trierweiler and Rob Braim, who stepped up and offered to help us construct a covered outdoor space, our new Cidergarden. They dug right in and went to work out of the goodness of their hearts.
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A MUST-TRY THIS MONTH: “Skinny Dipper,” a dry cider blend that’s fermented with “dipped in” skins from our spent blaufränkisch pressing. It’s a perfect mix between red wine and cider. photo by Kelly Rewa
PAIR IT: We loved the burger from Siren Hall in Elk Rapids and were happy to see it carried over to the new American House Wood Fired Pizza menu. That burger and fries paired with our hopped cider, Jaybird, is a great combination. [Owner and chef Michael Peterson closed Siren Hall in November 2020 and opened American House Wood Fired Pizza in its place.]
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FOOD TRUCK:
Happy’s Taco Shop
photo by Dave Weidner
FOR UP-TO-DATE LOCATIONS, GO TO HAPPYSTACOSHOP.COM/FINDUS OWNERS: DRUE WRIGHT & DRAKE NAGEL
MOST PROUD OF: We’re proud of how we adapted and overcame the obstacles of the pandemic, and that we were still able to be successful in spite of them. We introduced online ordering and curbside delivery at our Little Fleet and Back Lot locations, began offering frozen burritos and updated our Boyne Mountain food truck to be completely contactless.
A MUST-TRY THIS MONTH: Each of our locations has certain limitations that influence the menu, so it’s a different item at each place! The Little Fleet, Traverse City: Pork Nacho Crunch Wrap The Back Lot, Petoskey: Crispy Shrimp Taco Boyne Mountain, Boyne Falls: Mountain Special Burrito
PAIR IT: If you’re at The Little Fleet, their margarita is sublime. If you’re at The Back Lot, you can’t go wrong with an ice-cold Modelo!
Co-owners Drue Wright & Drake Nagel
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Anne and Brian Bates at a farmers market in 2016. This year, they'll be selling organic produce at their on-farm market in Petoskey.
“WHEN SOMEONE COMES TO OUR MARKET BEFORE HEADING TO THE SUPERMARKET, IT IS AN EXTRA STOP FOR THEM, BUT IT IS A HIGHLIGHT FOR US. WHEN LOCAL RESIDENTS COMMIT TO SHOPPING FROM LOCAL BUSINESSES, IT MAKES A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE.” photo by Nicole Steffen
–ANNE & BRIAN BATES
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FARM:
Bear Creek Organic Farm 4012 ATKINS RD., PETOSKEY BEARCREEKORGANICFARM.COM OWNERS: ANNE & BRIAN BATES
MOST PROUD OF: Keeping our family, our team and our customers safe. Without a doubt. We handled thousands of customers with an obsessive commitment to safety, we safely and securely avoided any layoffs, welcomed our second child in June and managed to pivot our sales strategy. It was expensive. It was uncomfortable. And it was challenging. But we did it. BIG TRANSITION: We said goodbye to farmers markets for the summer and focused on building an on-farm market business. Other than keeping everyone safe, quickly converting a storage barn
into a market was our biggest accomplishment and became the bright spot in our year. And it is something we are very excited to carry forward into 2021 and beyond. We are in the midst of expanding that space, increasing our product selection, expanding our hours and going all-in on that concept.
AVAILABLE AT THE FARM THIS MONTH: March brings fresh microgreens, the first edible flowers and some early herbs. The selection is limited, but cherished. This is a time when we like to start transitioning our meals from the heartier winter fare toward fresh spring meals. We’re talking deep-freezer hamburgers prepared with arugula micros and a little mint in our water, and root crop tacos with micro cilantro on top.
W I N E RY :
Rove Estate 7007 E. TRAVERSE HWY. (M-72), TRAVERSE CITY ROVEESTATE.COM OWNER: MCKENZIE GALLAGHER
MOST PROUD OF: Honestly, I am proud of so many things that came out of 2020. First of all, I would say our team knocked it out of the park. Every week we were dealt a new handful of restrictions and red tape; not once did we give up and take the easy way out. I know we’re all so sick of the word “pivot,” but it really is the perfect word to describe the nimble and fluid situation small businesses everywhere were forced to master. I am also really proud of our wine club and e-commerce growth. 2020 was our fifth season, and amongst the panic and frustration of the pandemic, magic happened. Our community embraced us, both as a small business and as a small family farm operation.
PLANS FOR SUMMER: We are working on breaking ground in 2021 on our production facility. We had hoped to start last year, but due to the pandemic we had to put those plans on hold. We will also be revealing some fun wine sensory workshops and experience-based wine exploration classes.
photo by Taylor Brown
A MUST-TRY THIS MONTH: Our new red blend called Tri, which is a beautifully balanced, fruit forward red blend of pinot noir, cabernet franc and merlot. In April though, we will be releasing 11 new wines! We sold out of 14 wines last year, so it’s great to get some fan favorites back on the menu.
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photo by Mae Stier
B R E W E RY :
Lake Ann Brewing Co. 6535 FIRST ST., LAKE ANN LAKEANNBREWING.COM OWNER: MATT THERRIEN
MOST PROUD OF: I’ve always said, the best way to help employees, is to stay in business and remain viable. You can give your employees the world, but if you’re out of business it doesn’t really matter. The whole year was a challenge, walking a fine line between making people of varying opinions comfortable and remaining profitable. Thanks to a great staff that can adapt to any situation, we came out of 2020 in good shape. A MUST-TRY THIS MONTH: We are known for our IPAs. The flagship Jungle Fungus Session IPA is my favorite, but we always have a rotating one-off IPA that will be on point. PLANS FOR THIS SUMMER: We will do outdoor music as soon as the weather permits. We’ve also added a 3–6 p.m. Friday show called “The Mash In” that will be kind of a warm up for the Friday night show at 7 p.m. and a Saturday afternoon “Daydrinker’s Series” that will go from 2–5 p.m.
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COFFEE SHOP:
Red Rooster Coffee & Community 207 S. JAMES ST., LUDINGTON REDROOSTERCOFFEE.ORG MANAGERS: ETHAN & MELISSA AMBROSE
MOST PROUD OF: We are so proud of our great community. 2020 has been full of challenges and many ups and downs, but the loyalty of our community has never wavered. Every day, [they] walk through our door and we get the opportunity to listen to their stories, encourage them, laugh with them and bring a little joy to their day as they do to ours. This year especially, it was much more “Coffee & Community”—getting through each day together. A MUST-TRY THIS MONTH: The Roost Breakfast Sandwich—a grilled English muffin stacked with sausage, pepper jack cheese, chipotle aioli and spinach. Carly Simpson is the associate editor of Traverse and producer of MyNorth's popular Daily Splash email newsletter. Subscribe at MyNorth.com/Newsletters. csimpson@mynorth.com
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SPRING | 2021
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The markets move, and so do we. On February 1, 2021, Greenleaf Trust opened the doors to our new office at 160 East State Street, Suite 200. Rehabilitating and moving into Traverse City’s old city hall is a pretty big move, even though we’re staying in the same great neighborhood with the same friendly mail carrier. Also staying the same are the familiar faces of your client centric team, email addresses and phone numbers, and our exceedingly high level of personalized service. Parking will be free and convenient. Greenleaf Trust looks forward to welcoming you to 160 East State Street, Suite 200. We think you’ll agree it’s a move in the right direction.
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WELCOME TO INSPIRED LIFE. At the heart of this magazine; the idea that at every age, we share a common love of this place we call home. Meet new neighbors embracing adventures—both big and small. Find real advice for taking good care of the assets and places we hold dear. Tap into a true joy for the outdoors that keeps our inner lives vibrant and our bodies well. Connect. Join in. Find smart and new ways to inspire your life Up North. —the Editors
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BE A VOLUNTEER KEEPER Ever dream of being a lighthouse keeper—maintaining a local landmark and continuing a Great Lakes tradition? Now’s your chance.
DISCOVER YOUR FAMILY’S HISTORY Kristyn Balog, executive director of the Harbor Springs Area Historical Society, shares tips on mapping your family’s history at home.
LOCALLY SOURCED CSAs offer seasonal fruits and veggies—and way more. Local bakeries and breweries are getting in on the subscription-based action.
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ASSISTED LIVING 8.0 Baby boomers are changing the face of assisted living, asking for delicious food, beautifully designed spaces and physical and intellectual activities.
WAYS TO STAY CONNECTED COVID-19 has taught us there are many ways to stay connected with those we love. We’ve compiled a list of ideas to make the most of virtual time together.
RETIREMENT REDEFINED Fran Alfs has built her dream “active retirement” around biking, skiing, swimming, reading, sharing art and more with like-minded people. Here’s how.
WILDFLOWER RESCUE Leelanau Conservancy’s Wildflower Rescue Committee goes beyond saving native plants from destruction—they also educate about their importance in our ecosystem.
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WHAT’S NEXT FOR LORI We have a choice in how we age. That’s one of the biggest lessons Lori Wells learned during her 30-year tenure as manager of the Grand Traverse Senior Center Network.
COVER PHOTO BY COURTNEY KENT
MyNorth Inspired Life is produced by MyNorthMedia. Advertising and editorial offices at: 125 Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. 231.941.8174, MyNorth.com. All rights reserved. Copyright 2021, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.
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BE A VOLUNTEER KEEPER Have you ever dreamed of being a lighthouse keeper—doing your part to maintain a local landmark while helping to continue a Great Lakes maritime tradition? This empty-nester’s dream came true. You’re next! BY KATHY BELDEN | PHOTO BY COURTNEY KENT
MISSION POINT LIGHTHOUSE
There’s something enormously satisfying about checking off an item on a bucket list. Being a volunteer lighthouse keeper at the Mission Point Lighthouse had been on that list for me, and when I became an empty-nester, suddenly the dream became a reality. The week-long lighthouse gig was a perfect chance to spend a little more time in a place that I love, and immerse myself in a bit of Michigan’s remarkable maritime history. Michigan has 129 lighthouses—more than any other state in the nation. However, there are only about a dozen volunteer keeper programs in Michigan. Mission Point Lighthouse was built in 1870 to help ships safely navigate both arms of Grand Traverse Bay and the treacherous waters of Lake Michigan. Visiting the lighthouse over the years, I was intrigued by its charm and spectacular views of the bay. I’ve been coming Up North since I was a kid—my mom’s cottage on Torch 4
Lake has been my own true north. Whenever I make the 450-mile northward trek from my home in Canton, Ohio, I can almost feel the car driving itself to get here. The keeper program requires two people during the busy summer months. I enlisted Jan Biliti, of Brighton, Michigan. Jan is a fellow Torch Laker, and she loves being Up North as much as I do. She also happens to be my cousin. Many times during my stay at the lighthouse, I thought about all the hardships that must have existed for the early keepers of days gone by. While we weren’t hauling whale oil up the steps, being a volunteer keeper is still work. During the busy summer months, the main duties are running the gift shop as well as collecting the admission charge to tour the lighthouse (no retail experience is necessary). In true keeper fashion, I kept a daily log of our activities. Here are a few of the entries.
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M ORE V OLUNTEER PR O GRAMS Check out these Northern Michigan lighthouses with volunteer keeper programs. Daily duties generally include greeting visitors, providing historical information, helping in the gift shop and offering tours, and your downtime can be spent exploring the area! —Kaitlyn McLintock
G RA ND TRAVERS E LIG HTHOUS E | NORTHPORT W E D N E SDAY, J U LY 22 I’m up at 6:30 a.m. and have coffee on the front porch before starting the day’s chores. The lake is like glass. The solitude is temporarily interrupted by hundreds of seagulls having a noisy meeting on a little island of trees in the water, just offshore. They disburse after a few minutes. I put up the flag, and inspect the beach for trash. Thankfully, there is little. Jan tackles sweeping inside the lighthouse—we’ve nicknamed it “The Sand Management Program.” It’s a constant battle. The 37 steps up to the top of the lighthouse need to be swept daily, as well as the entire house, the outside boardwalk and the steps that lead to the beach. Jan says she can’t imagine doing this job in a long dress, as keeper Sarah Lane must have done in the early 1900s. After a long day, we treat ourselves to dinner at the Peninsula Grill (about seven miles south on M-37). I order the Parmesan-crusted whitefish; Jan opts for the flatbread pizza. We wash it down with a Bell’s beer. Delicious. We get back just after sunset; the sky is a delicious shade of orange. F R IDAY, JULY 24 Visitors today include folks from Alaska, Hawaii, Japan and Korea. When we ask faraway visitors why they’re visiting the area, the answer is almost always the same—“family.” I smile to myself knowing the magic that the Grand Traverse region has in drawing families together. And, they are all in awe of Michigan’s beauty. A visitor from New Jersey remarks that he “had no idea how beautiful Michigan is.” Late afternoon brings members of our family to the lighthouse. Keepers are allowed to have company in the evening—it’s encouraged—and our little group enjoys having the lighthouse to themselves after the crowds leave; however, no overnight guests are permitted. Standing on the beach at sunset, my brother, Rob, remarks that the view in front of us is the same magnificent view as the early Michiganders saw. He’s right: nothing has changed. T U E SDAY, JU LY 2 8 We spend our final morning doing the usual routine chores and opening the gift shop for the day. We finish packing and clean our quarters in preparation for the next pair of incoming keepers. It’s been a week of phenomenal weather, hard work, great times and good food! We leave the lighthouse feeling happy, knowing someday, we’d return.
Between April and December, spend a week in the former assistant keeper’s quarters at this 1858 lighthouse perched on the tip of the Leelanau Peninsula, within Leelanau State Park. The tower offers spectacular views of Lake Michigan and Grand Traverse Bay and the state park is home to the Cathead Bay trail system (8.5 miles total) and a sandy beach. Find the application at grandtraverselighthouse.com.
B IG SA B LE POIN T LIG HTHOUS E | LUDINGTON Stay and play on the shores of Lake Michigan at Ludington State Park for two weeks through the Big Sable Point Lighthouse volunteer keeper program. The 1867 lighthouse has a recognizable black and white tower, standing more than 100 feet tall, and sits on a beautiful sandy beach. Downtown Ludington and its many restaurants and shops are just 10 minutes away. Apply at splka.org.
LITTLE SA B LE POINT LIG HTHOUS E | MEARS Volunteer for a minimum of one week at Little Sable Point Lighthouse (lodging within Silver Lake State Park). Or, join in the day keeper program, in which locals or those staying in the area work the lighthouse on Mondays for a transition day while one group moves out and the next group moves in. The lighthouse, which dates back to 1874, stands alone at the base of Lake Michigan, nestled among the Silver Lake State Park Sand Dunes. Apply at splka.org.
LUD IN GTON N ORTH B REA KWATER | LUDINGTON This lighthouse was built in 1924 and is located minutes from the various shops and restaurants of downtown Ludington. Like Big and Little Sable, it’s managed by the Sable Points Lighthouse Keepers Association. Volunteers can stay for a minimum of one week or take part in the day keeper program on Mondays. Apply at splka.org.
C RIS P POIN T LIG HTHOUS E | NEWBERRY For one to five days, volunteer on the shores of Lake Superior at Crisp Point Lighthouse. The picturesque tower was built in 1875 and named after one of its original keepers, a strong-willed boatman named Christopher Crisp. For more information, and instructions on how to apply, go to crisppointlighthouse.org.
AU SA B LE LIG HT STATION | PICTURED ROC KS N ATION A L LA KESHORE Au Sable Light’s volunteer keeper program requires a month of living at the lighthouse and usually requires two people, as one person works at the museum and the other helps park staff with lighthouse tours. Volunteers work five days a week from 9–5. After work, visit nearby Grand Marais and take in incredible views of dunes and mighty Superior at Log Slide Overlook, located within the national lakeshore. Visit volunteer.gov to apply.
DETOUR REEF LIG HTHOUS E | D ETOUR V ILLAGE Experience what it’s like to stay at this 1931 offshore lighthouse for a weekend. The 83-foot tall lighthouse marks a dangerous reef located one mile offshore in northern Lake Huron between DeTour Village and Drummond Island. It was built to guide ship traffic to and from Lake Huron and Lake Superior via the St. Marys River. Go to drlps.com to apply. MyNorthINSPIRED INSPIREDLIFE LIFE || SPRING SPRING2021 2021 MyNorth
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DISCOVER YOUR FAMILY’S HISTORY How to get started with genealogy as a hobby. BY CARLY SIMPSON PHOTOS COURTESY OF HARBOR SPRINGS AREA HISTORICAL SOCIETY
Kristyn Balog, executive director of the Harbor Springs Area Historical Society (HSAHS), loves helping people explore their family's story. Prior to the pandemic, the historical society regularly hosted genealogy events, welcoming guests to drop in to learn the basics of ancestry.com. Kristyn plans to bring back these events in the future, also adding structured workshops focused on specific topics, like how to use census records to help people dig deeper into their research. Here, Kristyn shares tips on how to begin mapping your family’s history at home. What’s the very first information to collect? I recommend getting started by collecting all the information you already have about your family. Ask your parents/grandparents about a family tree, look through a family Bible or scrapbook, search out vital records in your attic, etc. Building a family tree can be helpful, especially as a way to organize all the facts and material you gather. Building from a solid foundation makes the rest of the research process easier. Start with an ancestor you know a lot about; I recommend a grandparent. You need to know approximately what year they were born in, where they’ve lived and other details like the names of their siblings. Once you’ve managed to find enough facts about that person, you can work backward in time from that solid base. What tools/resources are available online? Ancestry.com is great and it’s free to have an account, but you have to pay for advanced features like the family tree builder and access to international records. Ancestry. com also has a lot of free content and resources for getting started with family history research, reading certain types of records, etc. FamilySearch is another free website that uses the same archival databases as Ancestry but they have a free family tree builder. I find ancestry.com to be easier to work in and worth the monthly membership for their family tree builder. I also recommend searching the online databases of local historical societies, county and state governments, libraries, etc. Often the only cost associated with these searches is for copies of records or research assistance from employees.
What are the common problems people run into? The most common problem beginners run into is starting their search with a relative they don’t know enough about. Many people want to know about their great-grandparents, but only have a name or a location to search by. Most beginners think there couldn’t possibly be another “Mabel Agnes Smith” in Ohio in 1860, but quickly find that either they are getting hundreds of results to sift through (with 15 “Mabel Agnes”) or nothing comes up at all. Working back in time from a firmer foundation usually helps keep things clearer. If you know the names of all of Mabel Agnes’ children, you can more easily decipher which Mabel Agnes out of the 15 possibilities is “your” Mabel. I’ve also discovered that beginners often don’t know how ancestry.com works. The site is a database; it pulls digital records from thousands of sources into a searchable archive. Because it’s built from digitized sources, it changes all the time. When a state decides to scan and post old vital records online, those can become part of Ancestry’s collection. There are new databases added every day and it’s worth re-running a search that didn’t work in the past after some time has gone by, in case a new and relevant source has been added. You do eventually hit roadblocks and the “information well” does begin to run dry. But new sources and records are being digitized all the time so there’s almost always something more to discover. What’s something cool an HSAHS genealogy event participant has discovered? One woman was looking for information about her birth family. She had names and dates but not much else. We were able to find a scanned high school yearbook with several pictures of her father. She actually started crying when she saw the photographs and said she’d never seen a picture of him before. That was very special to be a part of. Any advice you want to add? Once you’ve discovered as much as you can about an ancestor or hit a roadblock in your research, I recommend learning more about the history of the town or the era they’re from. Learning what life was like for your ancestor helps forge a connection with them and makes that history even more personal. MyNorth INSPIRED LIFE | SPRING 2021
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L O C A L LY SOURCED Connect with regional farmers through Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) BY CARLY SIMPSON & ALLISON JARRELL | PHOTOS BY KELLY REWA
Today, CSAs don't just offer seasonal fruits and veggies. Local bakeries and breweries are also borrowing the concept. Here's how it works: Farmers and makers sell a certain number of "shares" and consumers pre-pay for a membership or subscription. In return, consumers receive a box of fresh produce or other goodies each week throughout the season. And CSAs aren't limited to summer—fall, winter and spring options are often available, too. Here are five we love. 8
MULTI- FA RM C SA L E E L ANAU COUNT Y | MI FARMCOOP.ORG This year-round CSA, offered by a multi-farm cooperative in Leelanau County, provides seasonal produce and goods from more than five local farms in one box. Expect to receive a dozen eggs, a loaf of bread, fresh greens, 2-4 pounds of seasonal veggies and 2-4 pounds of seasonal fruit for $47.50 per week (total cost is $380 for spring 2021, $760 for summer 2021 or $570 for fall 2021). Members can also add on
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to their boxes—options vary season to season, but include chicken, beef, flowers and extra eggs. Multi-Farm CSA offers Tuesday pick-up times at five locations in Traverse City and Suttons Bay. E A RT H E N A L ES TR AVE R SE C I T Y | E A RT H E N A L E S .CO M Earthen Ales offers several four-week beer CSAs (Community Supported Ales—very clever!) throughout the year. Watch for release dates on Facebook and their website. Subscribers get two four-packs of 16-ounce cans each week for $115. (Mug Club members pay $105.) Don’t need that much beer? Sign-up for a half-share for $60 and get one fourpack each week. You can also add a 12-ounce bag of coffee from Fortunate Coffee Co. (formerly BLK\MRKT) for $15 per week and/or eight ounces of cheese from the The Cheese Lady TC for $10 per week. H A RV E ST T H YM E FAR M CH E BOYG AN | H A RV E ST T H YM E FA R M .COM Founded by Brendan Prewitt and Greta Jankoviak in 2014, this 5-acre, bio-sustainable farm offers fresh produce and cut flowers through its farm share (CSA) program, as well as area farmers markets. Harvest Thyme, which sits on land that was originally homesteaded by Greta’s family in the 1890s, serves Cheboygan, Indian River, Mackinac Island and St. Ignace, and offers “farm cards” that make the CSA process a breeze—purchase a pre-loaded card on their website and use it to order online for pick-up at the Cheboygan Farmers Market or at Harvest Thyme’s farm stand. CO MMO N GOOD BAK E RY TR AVE R SE C I T Y | CO M M O N G O O D B A K E RY.COM The Community Supported Bakery program at Common Good has a lot of crusty perks. Members pay $4.50 a loaf compared to $9, can pick up their bread any day of the week, are treated to $1 baguettes and get a complimentary coffee or tea with each purchase. A $100 minimum (which equals a six-month subscription with one loaf a week) is required to join the Rebel Bread Club, though you can add more money to your club card at any point to purchase as many loaves as you like. “It’s a CSA without rules, for the rebel at heart,” says Joy Martin Omar, assistant general manager/marketing manager. T H E MAY FA R M FR A N K FO RT | T H E M AY FA R M .CO M Touting “trustworthy food raised close to your table,” The May Farm raises rotationally grazed beef, lamb and broiler chickens at their Frankfort pasture. In previous seasons, CSA members have had access to 100 percent grassfed beef by the quarter, 100 percent grassfed lamb by the half or whole and pastured broiler chickens. At the time of publication, details were not yet available for the 2021 season. For information on prices and availability, head to the farm’s website to sign up to receive their spring flyer.
HOW TO GET THE MO S T OUT OF YOUR C SA CSAs, especially produce-based subscriptions offering pounds of fresh fruits and veggies, can be intimidating at first blush. But prepping your produce and utilizing it each week doesn’t have to be daunting. Here are some tips for planning and cooking up delish, locally sourced meals: Prioritize produce: While some fruits and veggies can last days or weeks, others need to be consumed or preserved sooner rather than later. A good first step after picking up your CSA box is to take inventory and prioritize: eat produce like greens, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, broccoli, berries and bruised fruit as soon as possible. (This is also a great time to plan and meal prep for the week!) Prep your haul: Speaking of prepping—this can be the most labor-intensive step in the process. We recommend getting some of the work done right away. Once you have your box, take an hour (or less) to pre-prep your produce—wash lettuce and store it in a container lined with paper towel, and chop up your veggies. You’ll be more inclined to use these ingredients in a dish or snack on them throughout the week. Blend it up: A great way to use up those pounds of produce— throw them in a large crock pot for a soup or stew, or experiment with your fruit and veggies and test out different smoothie combinations. Preserve any excess: Sick of making salads? Whip up some fresh pesto with your leftover greens, or pickle those beets, carrots and cucumbers. Swap what you can’t use: Maybe you’re not a fan of beets, or there’s a certain leafy green that’s not your cup of tea. Why not swap these items with a neighbor, or just give them away for some karma points? MyNorthINSPIRED INSPIREDLIFE LIFE | | SPRING SPRING2021 2021 MyNorth
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PRE-RETIREES: PLAN NOW FOR HEALTH CARE COSTS If you’re close to retirement, you’ll have several financial issues to consider. But you’ll want to pay attention to one of the most important of these issues: health care costs. How can you prepare yourself for these expenses? First, get an early start on estimating health care costs. More than two-thirds of those planning to retire in the next 10 years say they have no idea what their health and long-term care costs will be in retirement, according to the Edward Jones/Age Wave Four Pillars of the New Retirement study. And some people don’t worry much about these costs, which may be considerable, thinking that Medicare will pay for most of them. While Medicare does cover many medical expenses, it also has its own costs. You probably won’t pay a premium for Part A (inpatient/hospital coverage), since you likely had this cost deducted from your paycheck when you were working. But if you are hospitalized, you’ll have to pay deductibles and coinsurance (the percentage of costs you pay after you’ve paid your deductible). Part B (doctor’s visits) requires a premium, deducted from your Social Security checks, and you must pay an out-ofpocket deductible. After you meet this deductible for the year, you typically pay 20% of the Medicare-approved amount for most doctor’s services. And when you enroll in Part D (prescription drug plan), you will likely also have to pay a monthly premium, an annual deductible and coinsurance or copays. To help pay for the Medicare deductible, coinsurance and copayments, you may want to get supplemental insurance, known as Medigap. Premiums for Medigap vary, depending on the plan you choose. As an alternative to original Medicare, you could select Medicare Advantage (sometimes called Part C). Medicare Advantage plans are offered by private companies approved by Medicare, but the benefits and
costs vary by plan. These plans generally will incorporate Medicare Parts A and B and will provide additional medical coverage, such as prescription drugs. When you incorporate all the above, the annual outof-pocket costs for traditional medical expenses likely will be about $4,500 to $6,500 per year, per person – not insignificant, but certainly a number that can be addressed by careful planning. But there’s one more expense to keep in mind: long-term care. The average cost of a private room in a nursing home is more than $100,000 per year, according to the insurance company Genworth. And Medicare typically pays few of these expenses. Clearly, between regular medical costs associated with Medicare or those not covered by it, and costs resulting from the possible need for long-term care, your health care bills can mount. To meet these costs, you need to plan ahead – and take action. For example, it’s essential that you incorporate health care expenses into your overall financial strategy. You can also work with a financial professional to run some “what-if” analyses to see if your strategy would be derailed by a potential long-term care stay. And the professional you work with may be able to suggest specific protection vehicles that can help you meet the costs of long-term care. The best time to prepare for your health care costs during retirement is well before you retire. So, if you haven’t already started, now is the time to do so. When it comes to paying for health care, the fewer surprises, the better. This article was written by Edward Jones for use by your local Edward Jones Financial Advisor. Edward Jones, Member SIPC
Edward Jones is a licensed insurance producer in all states and Washington, D.C., through Edward D. Jones & Co., L.P. and in California, New Mexico and Massachusetts through Edward Jones Insurance Agency of California, L.L.C.; Edward Jones Insurance Agency of New Mexico, L.L.C.; and Edward Jones Insurance Agency of Massachusetts, L.L.C.
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Your Local Financial Advisors
Financial Advisors in Traverse City AAMS®
Heather J Boivin, 3285 South Airport Road West 231-933-5263 Yancy Boivin, AAMS® 3285 South Airport Road West 231-933-5263 John W Elwell, AAMS® 3588 Veterans Dr 231-947-0079
Jamie Keillor 4110 Copper Ridge Dr, Building D, Suite 202 231-252-3561 Jim Mellinger 12935 SW Bay Shore Dr, Ste 310 231-947-1123 Steve Meteer 125 Park Street, Suite 250 231-947-3032
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Claudia F Rodriguez, AAMS®, CRPS® 125 Park Street, Suite 250 231-947-3032 John Tredway 806 S Garfield Ave, Suite B 231-932-1290 Andrew Weaver 318 S Cedar Street 734-780-5541
Financial Advisor in Interlochen Bill Collin 9672 Us Highway 31, Ste 400 231-276-1355
Call or visit any of our financial advisors in the area.
Greg Williams 513 S Union St 231-933-0881
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ASSISTED LIVING 8.0 Baby boomers are rewriting the priorities for aging with assistance. BY KIM SCHNEIDER PHOTOS COURTESY OF CORDIA
BEAUTIFULLY DESIGNED SPACES THAT OFFER SOCIAL OPPORTUNITIES, LIKE THIS OUTDOOR CORDIA SPACE, ARE HIGH ON THE BABY BOOMER LIST.
Tables in cozy nooks, divided by graceful arches, are set for white table-clothed dining along walls of butter-yellow brick in a century-old Grand Traverse Commons building. The scene could be the setting for the James Beardnominated Trattoria Stella, just a half-mile down the hall. However, these tables are set for independent and assisted living residents of Cordia at Grand Traverse Commons, who get their own sophisticatedly plated meals from a culinary team led by lauded farm-to-table chef Michael Bauer. This dining experience is one box ticked on the list of today's aging baby boomers’ requirements who want flexibility and out-of-the-box thinking in their dining options as well as in almost every aspect of daily life. Bauer brings high-end dining to daily changing menus that include options like breaded calamari with sweet chili sauce, panko-crusted goat cheese salad, lamb lollipops and a cinnamon pavlova with blueberry compote. What he and the other chefs don't bring is institutional experience—and that's by intention. “We knew we could train or teach someone about seniors' dietary needs,” says Cordia Founder and CEO Karen Anderson, “but we wanted someone from the hospitality industry whose personal mission was to make delicious food, beautifully presented, fresh in ingredients and with a lot of rotation of the menu.” Interesting, nutritious and delicious food—eaten on their own schedules—is just one of the things baby boomers are looking for in their independent and assisted living choices. Add to that beautifully designed spaces, intellectual and physical activities and a community of like-minded people who become friends and with whom they can age. Because, notes Anderson, no one, as we age, wants to wake up and live the same day over and over as if stuck in their own version of the movie “Groundhog Day.” The biggest revolution in living models for seniors, including at Cordia, has been the addition of radical flexibility, and that goes beyond having both a formal dining room and
pub onsite. The one-size-fits-all model has morphed into treating each resident as an individual and helping them to mold what makes an interesting life journey to them. “When I first entered the industry, you'd look at a program calendar and it'd be no different from the daily activities at a children's Y camp: art and crafts, Bingo, singalongs. Games, music and art have a place in most people's lives, but not at a childlike level,” Anderson says. Cordia residents today shape their days around a host of different activities, all delivered via the iPads each resident is given upon move-in. A weekly menu lets one choose from wellness offerings popular in staving off the effects of age: mindfulness, meditation and fitness and strength-building classes. There are lectures on world history and art, movie nights, open studio time and art classes like “learning to draw stick people for comic relief.” Many baby boomers are passionate about the arts but want to do more than watch them passively. For them, Cordia offers in-house choir and theater groups, resident artists who spin their own yarn in the fiber arts studio and painters and jewelry makers whose work is shared in exhibitions. Key ingredients also include the benefits of communal living—a shared place where people might even enter before needing assistance. A place like Cordia lets someone enter either the fully independent living section (Club Living) or the assisted living wing (Club Living Plus). Even in independent living, someone could get help from the wellness team of nurses and other professionals on an à la carte basis, while they'd get more regular team help in the “plus” section. Such help might include daily reminders to take medication or something as simple as laundry and cleaning services or dog walking. When a move is needed for health reasons, it can be to the other side of the complex—no need to adjust to a new setting or make new friends. When Anderson founded Cordia in Boston 25 years ago, she developed a five-pronged approach to wellness focused on keys to a well-rounded life: intellectual activity, physical 4 MyNorth INSPIRED LIFE | SPRING 2021
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BABY BOOMERS ARE LOOKING FOR THE KIND OF SOPHISTICATEDLY PLATED MEALS LIKE THOSE BY CORDIA'S FARMTO-TABLE CHEF MICHAEL BAUER.
A SSI STED L IVING I N THE B ABY B OOM ER W O RL D
strength, spiritual connection, cultural enrichment and emotional balance. This philosophy hasn't changed over the years, but how the elements are delivered to aging boomers certainly has. The special architecture of the Grand Traverse Commons posed some initial challenges for the Cordia staff—its historical status limited the ability to change the original structure. But it offered a special opportunity as well, since aging boomers want their surroundings to be as interesting as their activity and food menus. The building was originally designed as an innovative-for-its-time asylum in the model of an Italianate castle. No two rooms in this community of studio, one- and two-bedroom apartments is alike, and residents share 30,000 square feet of interesting common spaces with breezy porches, decks and entertainment spaces. As a bonus, the club sits within a couple of walkable blocks of both the region's main medical center and a thriving residential village boasting a fair-trade coffee shop, bakery, restaurants, boutiques, a brewpub, winery and bocce courts. “Just because we've turned a certain age, it doesn't mean we want our days to stop being interesting,” Anderson says. Instead, seniors want them to perhaps be even more so. Aging boomers want to stay engaged with life and to surround themselves with others who do so as well and to build deep friendships along the way. “That age-old litmus test of independence—'I stayed in my home until I came out feet first'—is a strategy many still employ,” Anderson says. “But when people eat meals together, they eat better; when they see their nextdoor neighbor can ride bicycles and swim, it motivates them to continue to stay fit and keep active. We've seen from the beginning that if you could get people in before they needed the help, it could change the trajectory of the aging journey.” Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she’s the author of “100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die.” kimschneider.net
Choices. That's what baby boomers want in living options as they age, as does Gen X behind them, says Jane Marie O'Connor, owner of 55 Plus Marketing and a national consultant in the senior housing field. While the Silent Generation born between 1926 and 1945 likely wanted meaning and choice, too, they were content with what had been offered. Boomers have other ideas for both living style and location. “They have disrupted and changed everything they've touched in their lifetimes,” O'Connor says. “They were not conformists. So they don't want to retire and lie back and watch the world go by. There's a sense of purpose and meaning to their lives, and they want to explore that. They want new adventures, they want socialization.” Facilities competing for this population have furthered the revolution in senior housing options, offering spots that welcome pets, integrate technology, make wellness an integral part of the day and offer flexibility in both dining times and dining settings. Bistros, cafes and grab-and-go options might better fit a boomer's active lifestyle, as does meal time flexibility that doesn't force someone to head home for dinner in the middle of a pickleball tournament or a stintof reading to local school children. One newer trend involves the theming of entire complexes. There are communities totally designed for Harley Davidson lovers, boaters, people of a certain religious faith, nature immersion and more. One client, O'Connor says, is developing a wellness community in Mexico that features plantings with aromas that calm or stimulate the mind, Japanese sand gardens and areas in which technology is banned. “We see people really doing their homework and choosing accordingly,” O'Connor says. “There's always this common aspect of a meaningful purpose and active lifestyle. Boomers are looking for a new adventure and want to know, 'What are the things that are really going to excite me?'”
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STAYING CONNECTED Five kid-friendly ways to stay in touch virtually with loved ones. BY ALLISON JARRELL
Continued on page 19
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It’s been a year since the COVID-19 pandemic separated us from family and friends outside of our households. For many families, this means not being able to see kids or grandkids in person, shifting to Zoom and FaceTime until it’s deemed safe to reunite. Video calls are a great way to stay connected, and we’ve compiled a list of ways you can make the most of that virtual time together. A bonus? When the pandemic is over, these ideas work anytime when loved ones are a long way away. P L AY G A M E S T O G E T H E R . There are seemingly endless options for hosting an online game night with kids of all ages—many board games, card games and trivia game shows have apps that you can download for free and use with others (search the App Store or Google Play). Choose from virtual games like Scrabble GO, Words with Friends, Boggle, Scattergories, Monopoly, Uno!, Yahtzee with Buddies, Jeopardy! or Wheel of Fortune. For families with younger kids, try games like Lego Duplo World or My Very Hungry Caterpillar, based on Eric Carle’s book. And for a local (and more tactile) option, check out Interlochen Public Library’s “Yahtzee on Zoom” every Thursday at 11 a.m. Call 231.276.6767 to pick up your dice and scorecards. Check out interlochenpubliclibrary.org for more information. SHARE A VIRTUAL DINNER. Pick a kid-friendly meal to prepare—think homemade pizza or nachos—and enjoy a family dinner together while video chatting. Try cooking virtually with older kids and preparing more complex meals together over Zoom, or teach little ones how to bake chocolate chip cookies for dessert! G E T C R A F T Y. Crafting together while video chatting is a great way to engage with kids while encouraging creative expression. There are an infinite number of project ideas for all ages to choose from online, or check with your local library to see if they have any programs available. The Elk Rapids District Library, for example, offers a monthly Take and Make Kids Craft that you can pick up in the library lobby. For more information, visit elkrapidslibrary.org. READ A BOOK. Reading to the children in your life not only keeps you connected, but also helps build vocabulary, language skills and concentration. If you’re looking to freshen up your book selection, check the resources available at your local library—members of Traverse Area District Library have access to numerous eBook downloads, including animated talking books. TADL also has a comprehensive list of books for pre-readers, beginning readers and tweens (tadl.org/youth/reading-lists). B E P E N PA L S . Sending text messages and emails to kids and grandkids is a great start, but why not kick it old school and send uplifting letters to each other? Or take the 21st-century approach and try out the TouchNote app—kids can send custom photo postcards from a phone (available on the App Store and Google Play).
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RETIREMENT REDEFINED BY KANDACE CHAPPLE PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER
FRAN ALFS
When Fran Alfs moved to Traverse City in 2008, she didn’t have many friends to call on locally. So, she set about meeting new people with joy and determination. She started a journal with ideas on how to meet people, she joined groups, she printed up 250 flyers and put one in every mailbox in her subdivision: Would anyone like to get together for a walk or be in a book club? It was months later before a neighbor found the flyer blown into the shrubs, and Fran got a call. More calls followed and, before long, “Wine, Women and Books” was underway. Fran also went to Horizon Books and learned that the “Don't Bother Me I'm Reading” Book Club was meeting that very night at Amical. She walked in, introduced herself and met people like fifth-generation cherry farmers and local business owners. “Meeting all these people when I first moved here gave me a historical perspective into this region, my new home,” she says. That was 13 years ago. Since then, you might say, Fran has made a few friends. 20
At age 69, her social life sounds more active than most 29-year-olds. On the day we are chatting, she is off to a morning ski with the “Retired Not Tired” ski group at Crystal Mountain in Thompsonville, then heading off at noon to lead a class for SheSkis at Hickory Hills in Traverse City. “My friends say I’m the poster child for how to retire actively!” she says with a laugh. Fran moved here after a 34-year teaching career in Southfield, Michigan. After arriving in Traverse City with her husband, Ed, she worked another two years as a part-time special education consultant for TBAISD. She then “retired” and worked at the Michigan Artists Gallery for Sue Ann Round, and later for Michigan Works as a literacy specialist, before finally retiring from paid work and spending more time volunteering and pursuing her love of the outdoors. All in all, Fran has found the beauty of working and dabbling in a number of ventures can provide a rich stew of possibilities in retirement.
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“ T H E G I F T O F S H A R I N G TA L E N T S A N D PA S S I O N S I S S U C H A PA R T O F T H E C U LT U R E U P H E R E T H AT I T I S R E F R E S H I N G .” FIN D IN G YO U R T R I B E Fran is a part of a tribe in the area that is centered mostly around the beauty of the outdoors. She is a member of many groups including SheSkis, SheBikes, The Sisterhood, The Vasa Ski Club, Cherry Capital Cycling Club and more—all based on the love of movement and being outdoors. She now finds herself training 12–15 hours a week in many different sports, depending on the season. The other important world for Fran has been being a docent at The Dennos Museum for 13 years. This community of docents—made up of people who enjoy art, are willing to go through training and love working with children—has been a mainstay for Fran. When the COVID-19 shutdown began, Fran started painting every single day and sharing her paintings online with an artist, friend and mentor, Nancy Crisp, who she knew from volunteering at The Dennos. They would send a daily painting, back and forth. The mentoring online has helped Fran develop an area of her life that had not been realized and further developed a friendship with a kindred soul. “I feel so lucky to have friends made outdoors and in,” she says. “I tried new things until I found my tribe. I now have three to four people I can call on any day, at the spur of the moment, to just get outside with. Conversely, I have friends I can Zoom for book clubs or share art with.” Fran offers this advice for those looking to build an active and varied friend circle later in life: Don’t be shy. When she knew no one, she tried many groups and activities, choosing whatever she wanted to try next without hesitation.“Living up here is like being a kid in a candy shop,” she says. “You can try things you’ve never done before.” SE T T IN G GOA LS Fran also set fitness goals that pushed her to find people who would help her meet them. “You don’t have to commit to a group forever,” she says, “but it’s good to have a goal that gets you out there and connected to people.” The very first goal Fran had after moving to Traverse City was to swim across the bay. She joined the Northcoast Masters Swimming club, where where she met Kathy Coffin-Sheard, a coach who directs teams at the YMCA. Every summer, Fran still gets a group together to cross the bay. Fran’s second big goal after moving here was to run the Bayshore Marathon at age 60. “I’d never done a marathon, but Running Fit (a local running store) had a group and offered a six-month program,” she says. Allison Gross, a coach for TCAPS cross-country teams and Running Fit employee, trained her from point zero in running to completing the Bayshore! Next, she wanted to try biking. She got involved with Cherry Capital Cycling Club (CCCC) and later with SheBikes, a local women’s biking group.
“I hadn’t ridden a bike in many years because I was always working,” says Fran. “But I met Linda Deneen at the Subway parking lot with the CCCC, and we rode up to Suttons Bay, which is 15 miles. I was sure I could not do it. Linda encouraged me, and now I can go on 40- to 60-mile bike tours.” THE VEN N DIAG RA M From there, Fran met more and more outdoorsy, active people—finding many connected together, like a “Venn diagram” she says, in a place as “small” as Traverse City. “You join a group, and you might know a couple of them peripherally,” she says. “But then, you go, and you get to know them. It becomes a real connection to your community.” Also, she admits—sometimes friendships come from competition.“You meet someone who teaches you about a new sport, and it’s contagious,” says Fran. “I tell friends, ‘My goal is to beat you someday!’ We laugh about it!” Fran says the motivation also comes from things as pedestrian as swag from completing a race or a new hiking patch for walking 100 miles on the North Country Trail. “But, seriously,” she says with a smile, “the gift of sharing talents and passions is such a part of the culture up here that it is refreshing.”And the best part, she says, is that you can hit the podium when you’re older, when there are not as many people your age competing. When Fran did the Iceman Cometh Challenge mountain bike race seven years ago, it was a challenge to get to the finish line. “Afterward, my husband was pushing my bike, I was about to puke and someone says, ‘Hey! You got second place in your age group!’” recalls Fran. “I was like, ‘What!?’ I got $35 or something!” Her enthusiasm is infectious to anyone who is thinking about getting their old bike out of the garage this spring. Fran’s advice? Give it a go. “Follow your activity … and if you don’t like it, ditch it,” she says. “That’s the beauty of it—we are of the age to pick and choose. It’s okay to realize, ‘no, that’s not my group’ or decide that they don’t fit with who you are.” A lot has changed since Fran arrived in Traverse City, but her advice to newcomers and new retirees comes back to those 250 flyers she first put out 13 years ago. “All it takes is one person to put it out there, through a friend, a flyer, a Facebook post,” she says. “People are hungry for making pods in the community right now. Do it! There's no bad weather—just wear the right clothes.” Kandace Chapple is the editor and publisher of Grand Traverse Woman Magazine. Her essays have been published in Writer’s Digest, "Chicken Soup for the Soul," Literary Mama, Motherwell and more. She loves to mountain bike on Northern Michigan trails, hike with her dog, Cookie, and spend time with her husband and two sons. kandacechapple.com MyNorth INSPIRED LIFE | SPRING 2021
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L E N D A H A N D, S AV E A W I L D F L O W E R For decades, volunteers at the Leelanau Conservancy have saved native flora from being plowed under by development. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ALLISON JARRELL
Leelanau Conservancy’s Wildflower Rescue Committee (WRC) began in the fall of 1999 when friends Patty Shea and Joanie Woods decided to join forces to save native plants from destruction. Patty had previously been involved in a similar group downstate. As she and Joanie watched the construction boom grow in Leelanau, they felt compelled to save wildflowers like trillium and Jack-in-the-pulpit that were being demolished at building sites. 22
More than two decades later, their group of dedicated volunteers continues to dig up wildflowers at construction sites each spring, saving countless precious plants from being plowed under. They also take pride in educating the public about the crucial role native plants play in Leelanau’s ecosystems. Native wildflowers are more than just a welcome sight each May—they’ve evolved over centuries along with animals and insects that share a symbiotic relationship with the local
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PHOTO COURTESY OF LEELANAU CONSERVANCY
ANNUAL PLANT SALE
flora. In order to promote healthy ecosystems, WRC sells the salvaged plants each year over Memorial Day weekend at the Leland Village Green, giving new life to the wildflowers and donating the proceeds to Leelanau Conservancy projects. Any leftover flowers are planted in the conservancy’s natural areas. Many of the rescued plants have also been donated to public gardens, such as Old Settlers Park in Glen Arbor, Leelanau Children’s Center, The Old Art Building in Leland, Munson Hospice House in Traverse City and the Leland Village Green. WRC volunteers save primarily woodland and shade plants that are found in hardwood forests. They go into a site before a road is constructed, a driveway is built, a building site is dug, etc., and they remove the flora. Any plants protected by Michigan law are legally dug with the permission of the property owner—volunteers do not dig rare or endangered plants, and all specimens are inspected for disease by the state’s agriculture department. Volunteers often dig in the spring and fall—the best times for plant survival. While schedules can vary, the group usually digs on Monday, Wednesday and Friday in the morning for about an hour. WRC members always go as a group and only after receiving a signed agreement with the property owner, which releases the owner from any liability. They’ve worked with private individuals, the Leelanau County Road Commission, local excavators and builders, developer Jack Armstrong, The Leelanau Club at Bahle Farms and Cedar Valley Ridge. Last year brought new challenges with the pandemic— digs were canceled, along with the annual plant sale. At the time of publication, conservancy staff said they intend to resume digs and the plant sale in 2021, but were still planning the logistics. For the most up-to-date information on the Wildflower Rescue Committee and their Memorial Day flower sale, visit leelanauconservancy.org/wildflower-rescue-committee. If you’re interested in volunteering, call 231.256.9665 or email Lindy Kellogg, the events and volunteer manager, at lkellogg@leelanauconservancy.org. MyNorth INSPIRED LIFE | SPRING 2021
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Mecky Kessler-Howell and Kristi Avery, founding partners of FOR Investment Partners, share thoughts on why socially responsible investing is good for you and your investments. You recently decided to change your company name. What does the name FOR Investment Partners express? We wanted something that reflected moving in a positive direction, helping clients see the value of investing in things they stand FOR, to see the power of using their assets to bring positive change to the world, not only avoiding investments you are against. The name also emphasizes being responsible FOR financial goals, striving FOR financial results ... retirement, personal, or institutional investment goals.
Why did you decide to focus on socially responsible investing? Mecky has a lifelong interest in social issues—starting with a youthful stint in the German Peace Corps—and when she became an investment advisor, she came to understand the power that private investment has to influence the world when it is invested to support positive change. Kristi discovered socially responsible investing while working in traditional investment firms. She was delighted to learn there was a way of investing that fit her values, that focused on client goals in both a financial and personal life or organizational mission sense.
What are the biggest myths about socially, responsible investing? The biggest myth is you have to settle for lower returns. Several academic studies have shown socially responsible investing can match the returns of traditional investing; most studies show either a positive or neutral effect. Taking sustainability factors into consideration may also help to avoid risks posed by unsustainable business practices.
How long have you worked with your existing clients?
WHAT IS YOUR MONEY STANDING FOR?
Our longest institutional client has been with us for over 30 years. We also have many who have been with us 20, 15 or 10 years. These long-standing relationships speak to our commitment to clients and our ability to actively evolve with the sustainable, impact-investing field, while still achieving strong financial performance.
Can you describe your current client base?
Primarily large institutional investors, charitable foundations, religious organizations, and high net worth individuals but also clients or families saving for retirement, education, or other financial goals.| CHARITABLE ORGANIZATIONS | TRUSTS | FOUNDATIONS ENDOWMENTS
2226 S. Airport Rd Suite C, Traverse City, MI 49684 231.933.4396 | 800.499.3000 | FORinvestmentpartners.com Why don’t you list a minimum account size?
| INDIVIDUALS
This has been a point of discussion for a long time between us, ultimately, we don’t want to discourage people from asking us about investing and specifically, sustainable, responsible, impact investing. We feel a social obligation to younger generations. Many of whom are pushing for positive change, but do not understand how investing can help bring about that change while also helping them achieve their financial goals.
Why do you choose to work with an independent broker dealer? The primary reason is that we are not required to sell proprietary products or meet sales goals that may not be appropriate for a given client. Being affiliated with an independent Broker Dealer gives us the ability to own our name, who we are, and our authenticity, motto and mission. This affiliation makes it possible for us to select the best services and products to address our client’s particular investment needs. We can’t control these if we are flying a brand name flag.
You are an accredited fiduciary, what does that mean?
It means we must act in the best interest of our clients at all times. We have taken extensive training and an oath to do that. Not all financial advisors have this accreditation.
What is the most satisfying part of your profession? Serving our clients, watching them to reach their goals, and helping them feel attached to their resources, fully understanding what it means to activate their resources in a way that reflects their values.
Where do you see the future of sustainable, impact investing? Ultimately, we hope to see sustainable investing incorporated into everyone’s portfolio. We believe this type of investing has the power to change corporate behavior and make the world a better place. And the good news is the world is moving this way. The amount of assets being invested in sustainable and responsible ways is growing exponentially.
ENDOWMENTS | CHARITABLE ORGANIZATIONS | TRUSTS | FOUNDATIONS | INDIVIDUALS 2226 S. Airport Rd. Suite C, Traverse City, MI 49684 | 231.933.4396 | 800.499.300 | FORinvestmentpartners.com Securities & Investment Advisory Services offered through Western International Securities, Inc. Member FINRA/SIPC. FOR Investment Partners & Western International Securities, Inc. are separate and unaffiliated entities.
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WHAT’S NEXT FOR LORI At successful senior centers, “everybody knows your name.” BY KIM SCHNEIDER | PHOTO BY DON RUTT
Lori Wells, the recently retired manager of the Grand Traverse Senior Center Network, jokes that she grew in her job alongside the Bingo card. During her 30-plus year tenure, Bingo went from the most popular offering at the center to one generally (though not always) outshone by activities like yoga on the center's sandy beach, plein air painting, pickleball lessons, wellness classes, massages and group adventures to exotic spots like Africa, Poland, Australia and Hawaii. Attendance has stretched the small but perfect location on the shores of West Grand Traverse Bay well beyond capacity. “When I first started, the programming recipe was Bingo, lunch, dances, potlucks and cards,” Lori says. “Those are still important needs for people at a certain point in life. But people don't come to the center necessarily at that age. They come for a way to engage, learn new skills, share their own talents, meet new friends. They want to find a place where people know their name.” As our population lives longer, today's 55-plus crowd has become the true sandwich generation, one needing a break and support more than ever as they are likely still working full time while caring for aging parents and grandchildren. 4 MyNorth INSPIRED LIFE | SPRING 2021
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“ U S UA L LY W H AT M O S T P E O P L E A R E LO O K I N G F O R I S A R E A S O N TO G E T U P I N T H E M O R N I N G . U N T I L YO U D O N ' T H AV E T H AT, T H E R E ' S N O WAY TO U N D E R S TA N D H OW I M P O R TA N T I T I S .”
At the same time, they're in some ways closer to their 24-year-old self in activity preferences than those who were considered a senior 30 years ago. That's something successful and growing senior centers have kept in mind. In Traverse City, particularly, residents have been drawn by natural amenities and want to enjoy them while staying active. Volunteer-led hikes, bike trips, snowshoeing and cross-country ski outings have been especially popular and have developed groups of friends who gather year-round. “One of the biggest things I learned at the senior center is, we have a choice in how we age,” Lori says. “I saw there are some more successful ways to go through that aging progress and many made aging something to look forward to honestly. People are making their best friends as a senior, finding love again, becoming an artist in their 80s.” Senior center members sought to keep Lori in her job through at least age 75— that last number of the Bingo card. But while she left recently at 55, she's not done helping seniors—or sending as many as possible to the senior center and other community programming. She remains a member of the State Advisory Council on Aging and now works at PACE, a one-year-old program that helps seniors remain in their homes by bringing services to them. “It can benefit us all to help people stay engaged in the community, give them purpose,” Lori says. “Usually what most people are looking for is a reason to get up in the morning. Until you don't have that, there's no way to understand how important it is.” Wellness was one programming facet that grew quickly during Lori’s tenure. When the center first started offering things like massage, reiki and reflexology, she says, “Most of our people thought a massage was a naked Swedish person coming to do something to you.” As people realized the power of touch, those programs became wildly popular as did exercise classes that morphed over time, adding continuing variety. Seemingly simple activities like hiking groups also remained key, since, “While you can take a walk anywhere, what successful centers do is offer the social aspect,” Lori says. When Lori left her job in the fall of 2020, she was honored with a huge driveby celebration—a procession of cars with folks wishing her well and thanking her for her work. She attributes her popularity among staff and center members to the approach she was taught when taking the job—that you should bring joy and laughter above all. That approach fits the needs of every age group. While she's worked to bring in younger members, a recent “90-over-90” celebration that sought to celebrate 90-year-olds still active in the community attracted 125 people in their ninth decade. “We have people excited to turn 90 now so they can come to the party!” Lori says. “As time goes on, the eldest are not doing all the stuff they were doing when they were 60, but they're still coming to a place where people know their name. It's really important to keep the balance and have people feel it's still their place no matter where they might be in life.” Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she’s the author of “100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die.” kimschneider.net
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T he Cu l i nary North local cuisine . drinks . restaurant guide
D I N I N G OUT
Corned Beef Go Bragh by CARLY SI M PSON
Itching to get real Irish this St. Patrick's Day? Louie's corned beef is well worth its salt.
The Reuben at Cormack's Deli
photo by Dave Weidner
T
sive menu of 50+ sandwiches features several with Louie’s corned beef, including a classic Reuben with a generous stack of meat, is adamant that good corned beef starts sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing between with top-of-the-line briskets. “A lot of peogrilled slices of freshly baked rye bread. Further down the lineple say it doesn’t make a ton of difference, up, the "John Holec" keeps it simple—a half but it makes a huge difference,” pound of corned beef and mustard—and says Trevor. “For a long time, Cooking Tip: "The Brooklyn" swaps in cream cheese and corned beef was just a salted If you’re preparing a corned beef a French roll. Go wild. piece of meat. Ours is full of flavor.” feast for St. Patrick’s Day, Trevor recommends roasting it. “I put it in Mid-January marks the start of the busy Each week, 10,000–20,000 pounds of Loua roaster and let it cook at 275 for season at Louie’s, as the team prepares ie’s popular O’Brien Corned Beef are delivered 10–12 hours with cabbage, carrots and potatoes. When you boil it, it’s for a St. Patrick’s Day surge of corned beef to delis, restaurants and stores across the state, not nearly as salty.” orders. “When my grandpa Louie startmany in Detroit, where the Traverse City come d t h e b u s i n e s s i n 1 9 6 2 , h e w a s n’ t pany has a devoted customer base. In addition making corned beef,” Trevor says. “Years later in 1980, a to corned beef, Louie’s produces pastrami, ground beef, Polish man showed up one day and wanted to work. He shared hot dogs, sausage and bacon. his recipes and connected us with retailers in Detroit, and In the North, Cormack’s Deli in Petoskey has been a we now have a long list of loyal customers. It’s pretty stresslongtime customer. “Louie's Meats is a great Northern ful, but afterward we’re always thankful and feel very blessed.” Michigan family business that we have been purchasing louiesmeats.com from for years,” says owner Brad Cormack. The deli’s masrevor Alpers, president of Louie’s Meats,
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Three Pivots We Love by CARLY SI M PSON
We’ve been so impressed by the creative—and absolutely delish—ways in which businesses have continued to safely welcome us throughout the pandemic. We know the word “pivot” has taken a lot of heat this past year, but honestly, if it’s served with tacos and margs, we’re at peace with it. Here are three pivots we think you’ll enjoy, too. *
* When this magazine went to print in early February, we had no idea what March would bring, or heck, even next week. Some of these businesses may no longer be offering these items, but we still want to offer a hearty thank you to them for giving us special treats and sustenance when we needed it most. We’re confident that whatever’s on their menus this month will be truly fantastic.
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1. TAKE-AND-BAKE MEALS + KITS These restaurants certainly made staying home a whole lot tastier. Mama Lu’s Traverse City
Around the Corner Food & Fun Northport
This food trailer is one to watch in 2021. The property, where the trailer is located, at 115 S. Waukazoo St. is being redeveloped, with plans for outdoor games, free movie nights and a building with indoor seating and a beverage area. But, back to take-and-bake meals. Around the Corner’s “Freezer Menu” has a rotating lineup of comfort food like chicken Kiev, apple fritter pull-apart bread and Scotch eggs. Pre-orders required. aroundthecornerfood.com
2. TO-GO COCKTAILS
For those of us who don’t know a jigger from a muddler, these distilleries kindly kept our whistles wet.
Mammoth Distilling Central Lake, Traverse City, Bellaire, Bay Harbor
Mammoth makes it delightfully easy to THE
SMALL BATCH Michigan Maple Walnut Fudge In the heart of maple syrup season, order a thick half-pound slab of Michigan Maple Walnut Fudge. Opened in 1887, the Original Murdick’s Fudge is Mackinac Island’s first fudge shop, and more than 130 years later, the fudge is still made the same way— a recipe filled with history, art and science. To achieve Murdick’s signature texture, fudge makers must cook and shape each of the 20-plus flavors at different, and exact, temperatures. “Our fudge is creamy inside with a slightly firmer exterior after it sets, and that’s very different than any other fudge you’ll find on Mackinac Island,” says Co-owner Bob Benser. “Other fudges are very creamy throughout, which lots of people like, but our recipe follows old-fashioned techniques that have been passed down through the generations.” Lucky for us, for the first time Murdick’s is keeping its online store open year-round in 2021, delivering luscious treats to your doorstep in every season. originalmurdicksfudge.com –C.S.
Mama Lu’s customizable taco kits are dope. For $60, diners get 20 tortillas, a choice of two meats (crispy pork belly, yes please), pickled red onions and jalapeños, limes, house-made hot sauce, chips, salsa and Spanish rice. Add on a canned margarita and it’s a party. mamalustc.com
order a craft cocktail to go from each of its tasting rooms. Head to their website, click the cocktail icon, choose location and BAM— you’re presented with 10+ craft beauties. I’m partial to the Whiskey Tango Foxtrot (whiskey, pineapple jalapeño mixer, Northwoods spicy ginger beer), but you do you. mammothdistilling.com
Traverse City Whiskey Traverse City
Order a ready-to-pour Manhattan or old fashioned from TC Whiskey’s online store. Or, for a simple addition to your favorite bourbon or rye, try the Craft Mixer Variety Pack for easy ginger mules, whiskey sours and old fashioneds. The mixers are made with fresh juices, aromatic bitters and cane sugar. tcwhiskey.com
3. VIRTUAL COOKING CLASSES
Gathering with friends and family to share a meal is always special, even when it’s virtual.
Fustini’s Petoskey, Traverse City
Pizzarama, Winter in Paris and Moroccan Marvels are just a few of the many tempting themed cooking classes Fustini’s has been virtually hosting via Zoom this winter. Ten days before the class, guests receive the recipes, ingredient list and discount code to use on Fustini’s products. View the upcoming schedule and register online. fustinis.com
photo by Dave Weidner
T he Cu l i nary North Trends
T R AV E R S E / M A R C H 2 0 2 1
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The Culinary North
GUIDE R E S T A U R A N T
BLD BAR $ $$ $$$
| | | | | |
WATER VIEW BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER ALCOHOL SERVED ENTRÉES INDER $10 $10-20 ABOVE $20
> SOME RESTAURANTS MAY HAVE LIMITED WINTER HOURS OR ARE TEMPORARILY CLOSED DUE TO COVID-19. CALL AHEAD BEFORE VISITING. PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS
ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/INDIAN RIVER Dutch Oven Café and Deli French toast and farmers omelet stratas, sandwiches on famous homemade bread. BL •
$ 7611 U.S. 31, ALANSON, 231.548.2231
Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on the Bay Harbor marina. B • $ 4165 MAIN STREET, BAY
HARBOR, 231.439.9989
Original Pancake House Crepes, waffles, pancakes, omelettes, egg specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$ 840 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.2770
The Queens Head Wine pub serving wine, spirits and draft beer along with delectable pub fare. LD • BAR • $ 250 N. HURON
ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.445.7101
Vintage Chophouse/ Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$
INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051
Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlifedecorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas. LD • BAR • $-$$ 4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.9471
CROSS VILLAGE/HARBOR SPRINGS/ PELLSTON/PETOSKEY Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. LD • BAR $-$$$
Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801
CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000
New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR
Provisions Wine Lounge Sommelier-curated wines by the glass and bottle, classic cocktails, Michigan craft beer and small plates. LD • BAR • $$ 123 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.2151 Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY,
SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904
Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and an evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321 Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR • $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY,
231.881.9800
Roast & Toast Hip coffeehouse with daily house-made soups, bread, bakery items and salads. On-site coffee roasting. A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. BLD • $ 309 E. LAKE
STREET, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767
Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick oven pizzeria. BL • $ 324 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.489.8278 Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. LD • BAR • $ 1200 N. U.S. 31, PETOSKEY, 231. 347.9291
Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with a big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771 Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with a wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000
Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201 Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572
Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. D • BAR • $$ 1549 GLENDALE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.2410
Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900
Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and handrolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440
Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American cuisine with global wine and craft cocktail bar. D • BAR • $$ 129 EAST BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.412.6032
04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000
Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY, 231.753.2221
The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes, home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. BL • $ 423 MICHIGAN ST., PETO-
SKEY, 231.347.5583
Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients. Seminole Pub. BLD • BAR • $–$$ 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR
SPRINGS, 231.526.3000
Chandler’s Brick-walled and -floored dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to savor this art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SY-
MONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981
City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. LD •
BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101
Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. LD • $ 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299
Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250
Pelican's Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads and homemade desserts. D • BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY
CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES
BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/WALLOON Boyne City Taproom Craft beer, wood-fired pizzas, wraps, burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 220 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.459.4487 Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge—Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern— American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$
ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875
Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 Corner Bistro French-inspired small plates, classic cocktails, wine, beer, Sunday brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 102 N. BRIDGE ST.,
BELLAIRE, 231.350.7344
Friske Orchards Cafe Cheerful roadside restaurant features farm-fresh breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and a bakery. BL • $ 10743 U.S. 31 S., ATWOOD, 231.599.2604 Lake Street Pub American pub with outdoor patio and firepit, BYO mac ‘n’ cheese, cocktails, 26 beers on tap. LD • $ 202 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6031
231.582.0049
Stiggs Brewery Hand-crafted brews, from-scratch food like whitefish cakes, bourbon chicken sandwich, top sirloin wagyu steak. LD • BAR $-$$ 112 S. PARK ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6100 Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cuisine at Shanty Creek Resort with a view of Lake Bellaire. Breakfast, lunch & dinner. The River Bistro—Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, Lunch, (spring-fall) Ivan’s Mountainside Gril—Schuss Village-Pub food. BLD • BAR 1 SHANTY CREEK RD.
(M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111
Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD • BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622
Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contemporary American food with a focus on local ingredients. D • BAR • $$
213 N BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301
Torch Riviera Pasta, seafood, steaks, ribs, pizza. D • BAR • $$ 12899 CHERRY AVE., RAPID CITY, 231.322.4100
Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D
• BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999
CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/ EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. D L • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE ST.,
CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466
The Cantina Tacos and tequila with indoor and outdoor seating. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 VAN PELT PLACE,
CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3612
Charlevoix Pizza Company Scratch-made dough, fresh ingredients, golden crust, prepared daily. Plus, cheesy bread and wings. LD • $-$$ 311 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6300 East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450
Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling technique in this specialty food and wine shop. D • $-$$$ 12853 U.S. 31 N., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300
That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Grey Gables Inn Graceful, intimate, Victorian atmosphere across from the harbor. D • BAR • $–$$$ 308 BELVEDERE, CHAR-
LEVOIX, 231.547.9261
Lake Charlevoix Brewing Co. Craft brewery with good eats—grilled cheese sammies, tacos, quesadillas and beef jerky. LD • BAR • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE PARK DR., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3220
Pigs Eatin’ Ribs Real smokehouse with mouthwatering BBQ. Weekend breakfast. BLD • $-$$ 1418 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7447
Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E. JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351
Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food. LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827
Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with a massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel. LD •
BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311
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The Culinary North Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D • BAR • $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799
Torch Lake Cafe Inventive, ultra-fresh cuisine with sharable options like the seafood platter with black garlic butter. Or devour an elevated fried bologna sandwich with pickled green tomato and house Dijon all on your own... BLD • BAR • $-$$$
4990 US31 N, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.599.1111
Villager Pub ’50s atmosphere, whitefish, Mexican, ribs, sandwiches and pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHAR-
LEVOIX, 231.547.6925
ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING/MANCELONA Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. LD • $ 147
RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901
Flour Pot Bakery Come grab some doughnuts, Danish or another favorite to start your day! BL • $ 108 RIVER ST., 231. 264.9732 Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in a wine bar on the Elk River. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9000
The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better. BL • $$ 145 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190
Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively zydeco, jazz and blues. LD •
BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530
The Town Club of Elk Rapids After a renovation in 2019, this famous landmark has been rebuilt and is already being appreciated for its daily lunch specials and famous Prime Rib Thursdays. LD • BAR • $$ 133 RIVER STREET, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9914 Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting. Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3917 SOUTH OLD
27, GAYLORD, 989.732.9288
Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. LD • BAR 227 E MICHIGAN AVE.,
Boone Dock’s Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444 Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff. LD •
BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688
Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers, hand-cut fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling in the winter. LD • BAR • $ 172
W BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869
Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches, pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU,
231.256.9912
Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season. LD • BAR • $ 7144 N. M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923
Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MCFARLANE, MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900
Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10844 E REVOLD RD., SUTTONS BAY, 231.944.1297
The Homestead Nonna’s Restaurant—Classically inspired, contemporary Italian cuisine. D • BAR $$-$$$ Beppi’s Sports Bar—Hand-tossed pizzas, paninis and salads. D • BAR • $-$$ 1
WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000
Hop Lot Brewing Co. Family-friendly microbrewery with four-season patio and games serving ribs, tacos, wings and a s’more kit to top it all off. LD • BAR • $-$$ 658 S WEST BAY SHORE
DR., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4445
Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$
11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506
Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019 BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393
La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE,
GRAYLING, 989.745.6388
231.334.3944
Spike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since 1933. LD • BAR $ 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113 Tap Room 32 Twenty handles of Michigan craft beers and a menu of modern brew-friendly vittles like truffle fries and Korean beef tacos. D • $$ 141 NORTH COURT AVE., GAYLORD,
Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR • $ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422
Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch, including some gluten free dishes and pastries. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413 N. ST.
989.748.8552
JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344
The Old Depot 1900s train depot features homestyle burgers, steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. BLD •
North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR • $$
$$ 10826 M-32 E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115
Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. BLD • BAR • $$-$$$
216 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5524
420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000
Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast—all done well. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6692
Treetops Sylvan Resort Hunters Grille, & Sports Bar. Steak, burgers, ribs, pasta, signature pizza, chicken, fish and glutenfree selections. Featuring a selection of 100 Michigan craft beer, wines, fabulous martinis. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ WILKINSON
SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199
Shirley’s Café An ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. BLD • $
The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, breakfast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers share the menu.
LEELANAU COUNTY
Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. LD • BAR • $$ 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231.
RD., GAYLORD, 800.444.6711
528 S. WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210
Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST.,
BLD • $ 110 E. NAGONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055
334.3362
45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and lunch. BL • $-$$ 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. BLD • BAR •
Wren Contemporary comfort food and a constantly changing menu to feature locally sourced ingredients. D • BAR • $$ 303
The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927. Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the off-season. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081
GRAND TRAVERSE AREA
N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.1175
$-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754
INTERLOCHEN/KINGSLEY Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout and so much more. LD BAR • $-$$ 10586 US31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.6401
48
Dilbert’s Soups, sandwiches, omelets and other home cooking served in a homey atmosphere. BLD • $ 11303 U.S. 31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.3005
Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2784 M-137, INTERLO-
CHEN, 231.276.6979
Judson Market and Restaurant Newly re-branded market and restaurant offering house-made and local items. Glutenfree, vegetarian, full bar. BLD • BAR • $$ 211 E. MAIN ST., KINGSLEY,
231.263.8120
OLD MISSION PENINSULA Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted onsite. LD • BAR • $$ 13512 OLD
PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333
Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, locally sourced fare and craft cocktails. D THURSDAY,
FRIDAY & SATURDAY 5PM–9PM • BAR • $-$$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4222
Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials. LD • BAR • $$ 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY,
231.223.7280
DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace Amical and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888
NEW Benedict A family-friendly restaurant offering breakfast and lunch sandwiches, pastries, salads, soups and more. BL • $ 237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1000
Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with fromscratch farmer food. and Michigan-crafted beers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515
NEW Brasserie Amie A Parisian-style brasserie bistro in
downtown TC serving up brunch and dinner. LD • BAR • $$ 160
E. FRONT ST., 231.753.3161
Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads and tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570
The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-$$$ 115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700
Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. BLD • $ 129 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821
The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. LD • BAR • $ 108 S. UNION, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233
Fig's New location in State Street Marketplace. Daily menu with locally sourced foods: bar snacks, ethnic foods. BL • $$
329 E STATE ST. 231.256.2222
Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST.,
TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310
The Good Bowl Fresh, authentic Vietnamese eatery. Donates $1 for every bowl to the charity of your choice. LD • BAR $-$$
328 E FRONT ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662
The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads. BL • $
115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687
Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. BL •
$ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437
Little G's Fusion Cuisine Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 531 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2713
Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR • $$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100
Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2793
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T he Cu l i nary North On the Table A Schmear Revered by STACEY BRUGEMAN
Summertime’s ubiquitous appetizer—whitefish pâté—is given new life in this spring salad.
I set aside one cherished week every summer to visit my parents’ Petoskey cabin. When my mom would thoughtfully ask if I had any grocery requests, my answer was the same every time: “whitefish spread.” We would eat it standing around the end of the kitchen counter while she prepped dinner, slathering it on crackers or dragging raw veggies through it. In more recent years, I’ve started tinkering with this locally-loved staple. What else can we do with this smoked fish and cream cheese spread besides battling each other for our fair share from the plastic tub? My own kiddos and I now take a page from the Jewish delicatessens of New York and put it on our bagels—piling them high with tomatoes, capers and red onion. But my new favorite way to serve this Northern Michigan gem is in this spring salad. While it will be a while yet before salad greens pop up in our home gardens, professional growers such as Traverse City’s Lakeview Hill Farm (lakeviewhillfarm.com) are taking advantage of the 45th parallel’s increasingly longer days by growing arugula, pea shoots, baby kale, spinach and other cold-tolerant greens in hoop houses this month. Gather a tangle of such early lettuces, toast up some bread rounds, top them with a schmear of your favorite whitefish pâté and join me in celebrating the return of a more colorful growing season. Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.
^
Spring Greens with Whitefish Toast Serves 4-6 as a first course or side dish
photo by Dave Weidner / styling by Sarah Peschel
B
efore moving back to Michigan,
1 Tablespoon Champagne vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil Half of a baguette, cut on a bias into ½ inch slices (about 10 slices) 1 7-ounce container of your favorite whitefish pâté 2 ripe avocados 5 ounces of washed mixed spring greens—any combination of arugula, baby kale, pea shoots, microgreens or any other early season leaves or shoots will work Flake salt and fresh ground black pepper 1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. 2. In a small bowl, combine the vinegar and mustard. In a slow, steady stream—pausing as needed until each new addition is incorporated—whisk in 3 Tablespoons of the olive oil until the mixture is emulsified. Reserve the remaining oil.
3. Lay toasts on a baking sheet and brush both sides with the reserved olive oil, a heaping 2 Tablespoons. Place baking sheet into the oven and toast until edges are golden brown, about 5 minutes. 4. Meanwhile, assemble washed greens on a platter. 5. While the toasts are cooling, halve the avocados and slice them—cutting about six slices per half. Scoop out the slices and arrange them on top of the greens. Using a spoon, place a generous schmear of whitefish pâté onto one end of each toast, and place the toasts onto the salad. 6. Using a spoon, drizzle mustard vinaigrette on the salad, making sure to pass over each toast. Place any excess dressing into a small pitcher to offer on the side. Season the salad with flake salt and fresh ground pepper to taste and serve—making sure that everyone gets at least one gorgeous, oversized crouton. –S.B.
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The Culinary North Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST.,
TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH
North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. LD •
Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991 Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted wood-fired flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. LD •
BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325
BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168
Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelets, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. BLD • $ 124 CASS,
Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now at a new location. BAR • $ 225 E. 16 ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1239
Pangea’s Pizza Pub Craft pies, creative toppings. LD • BAR
TRAVERSE CITY–WEST
Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY,
13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079
Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer.
• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393
Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh, sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT
$$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960
TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093
Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, wellaged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832
231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590 $-$$ 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800
231.941.7632
LD • BAR • $$ 229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053
ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733
Scalawags Whitefish and Chips Ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700 Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (including European Trappist ales) with your burger and lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4807
Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912
Rough-hewn eatery affords a great Apache Trout Grill bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. LD • BAR • $$
Harrington’s By The Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., ST. 30, TRAVERSE
Thirsty Fish Sports Grille Family-friendly sports bar with seafood, burgers, steaks, pasta and a 600-gallon fish tank. Live music on the patio. LD • BAR • $-$$ 221 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1165
RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213
The Silver Swan Ethnic fare and killer desserts. LD • $ 13692 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203
Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. BLD • $ 1333 YELLOW DR., Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY,
West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922
Don’s Drive In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. LD • $ 2030 U.S. 31 N.,
TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.1860
Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000
Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-can-eat cod. BLD • $ 1103 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31,
BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/THOMPSONVILLE
The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. D • $-$$ 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843
Dinghy’s Local favorite for 25 years with house-smoked meats including famous ribs, half-pound burger, Big BLT, award-winning Friday fish fry. LD • BAR • $$ 415 MAIN ST.,
• $-$$ 318 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4121
The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT,
231.352.4114
The Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn. BLD • $-$$$ 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090 L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $-$$ 325 MAIN STREET, FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. LD • BAR $-$$ 515 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9136
North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the drawbridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with meats smoked daily and excellent craft beers on tap. LD • BAR $-$$ Rock's Landing Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with ethnic influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. D • BAR $$ 1157 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST.,
Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Tavo and Tarrah Hernandez turned their food truck into a restaurant dream-come-true with ultra-fresh tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas. LD • BAR
VILLE, 231.378.2554
• $-$$ 344 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4441
Lucky Dog Bar and Grille Burgers, smoked wings, brats, sandwiches, craft beer, cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S. BENZIE
Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib pasta , whitefish, craft beer, regional wines. LD • BAR
BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499
• $-$$ 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751
Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere. Steaks, Italian, Mexican. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 10921 MAIN ST., HONOR,
T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for panini, mex and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. LD • BAR •
231.227.1200
$ 99 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174
The Roadhouse Fresh Mex with a cool cantina atmosphere.
LD • BAR • $-$$ 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US 31), BENZONIA, 231.882.9631
Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers sandwiches. BLD • $-$$
CADILLAC
50
231.723.8000
Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken, pizza, soups, salads. LD • BAR • $ 14848 THOMPSON AVE., THOMPSON-
Reflect Bistro and Lounge at Cambria Suites Hotel Breakfast, dinner and Happy Hour 4-7 p.m. daily. BD • BAR • $-$$$
231.534.8888
Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399 Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1100 28TH ST., MANISTEE,
FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118
245 S BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250
Smoke and Porter Public House An American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020 Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,
FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA
Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Wood-paneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites. BLD
TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773
255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000
BAR • $ 523 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810
86 WASHINGTON ST, MANISTEE, 231.299.1020
BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC
• BAR • $-$$ M-115, THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000
TRAVERSE CITY–EAST
Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting. LD •
Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$ 717
231.929.8989
231.929.090
231.775.5332
FRANKFORT, 231.352.4702
Sugar 2 Salt Traverse City's hot brunch spot serves up what is in season. B • $-$$ 1371 GRAY DR., SUITE 300, TRAVERSE CITY, Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500 The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY,
Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club–style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. LD • BAR • $$ 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC,
The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and wood-fired pizzas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients. LD• BAR
TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453
231.409.8382
• BAR • $ 1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575
CITY, 231.252.4648
Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. LD • BAR
• $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912
Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks. LD
Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. BL • $ 304 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5461
Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an alpenhaus-style dining room. LD
FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS! Go to MyNorth.com/Restaurants
• BAR • $$ 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563
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T he Cu l i nary North Last Call
I
t is well known that Ernest Hemingway spent childhood summers at Windemere, on Walloon Lake. It’s also common knowledge that the famed 20th-century writer went on to become a heavy drinker in later years. But did you know there is a classic cocktail named for the notorious novelist? According to biographer A. E. Hotchner, Hemingway frequented a Havana bar called El Floridita, where bartender Constantino Ribalaigua would make the Nobel laureate a goblet of lime juice, grapefruit juice, a scant splash of maraschino liqueur and a whopping two-and-a-half jiggers of rum. This original, dubbed a Papa Doble, was “sour to the point of undrinkability,” writes Dale DeGroff in “The Essential Cocktail.” Over the decades, DeGroff and others have better balanced the original, creating a classic that is now known as the Hemingway Daiquiri. Some add a dash of simple syrup, but doing so makes it less, well, Hemingway—the author avoided sugar. While many associate daiquiris with the sun-kissed days of summer, we love shaking this classic during citrus season. It is traditionally garnished with a lime wedge, but here in our fruit belt a local cocktail cherry feels best, “especially a bourbonsoaked cherry,” says the Walloon Lake Inn’s Melissa Ogden (walloonlakeinn.com). The stone fruit garnish further eliminates a need for that dash of sugar, but if you sneak a few drops of syrup from the cherry jar into your glass, Northern Michigan’s summertime son will never know.
Prost, Papa! by STACEY BRUGEMAN
Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.
The Hemingway Daiquiri: A classic cocktail Michiganders should know about.
^
F RO M
Hemingway Daiquiri
Add ice to a coupe glass to chill it. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice and add the rum, lime juice, grapefruit juice, and maraschino liqueur. Shake vigorously until the mixture is cold. Discard the ice in the coupe, strain contents of the shaker into the glass and garnish with a cherry.
C E L L A R
Not flexing your mixology muscles tonight? Here’s what area beverage professionals are drinking right now.
WINE:
Amanda Danielson, sommelier of TC's Trattoria Stella, recommends the 2017 Shady Lane Cellars Blaufränkisch, a bottling with notes of blackberry, cedar and “an alluring crack of black pepper,” says Danielson. Suttons Bay winemaker Kasey Wierzba “took the generosity of the 2017 vintage, rewarded it with balanced oak and created a complex, cool-climate red wine.” shadylanecellars.com; $28 per bottle
BEER: Rick Jaissle, beer enthusiast at Blue Goat Wine & Provisions in Traverse City, is a fan of Barrel + Beam’s Pivot Point, a bière de garde that is lagered in Marquette. Jaissle suggests pairing the amber farmhouse ale with shellfish and salads. Give it a whirl with this month’s recipe (page 49) for Spring Greens with Whitefish Toast. barrelandbeam.com; $6 per 375ml bottle –S.B.
NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE
0321 The Culinary North.indd 51
photo by Dave Weidner / shot at Walloon Lake Inn
Serves 1 2 ounces white rum 3/4 ounce fresh lime juice 1/2 ounce fresh grapefruit juice 1/2 ounce maraschino liqueur such as Luxardo
O U R
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Love of the Land
Bucolic Farmland Protected by ALLISON JARRELL
T
he iconic 151-acre mawby family farm
along M-22 was preserved last summer, allowing the land to be farmed for generations to come thanks to a conservation easement secured by Leelanau Conservancy. Such easements keep land in private hands but permanently restrict development. Rooted in Leelanau County’s agricultural heritage, the Mawby property in Suttons Bay Township features stunning views of Power Island and West Grand Traverse Bay—views that will remain protected as a result of the Mawby family’s work with the conservancy. The project
52
also protects a 10-acre wetland complex that includes a groundwater-fed rich conifer swamp. “It’s a fantastic wildlife corridor that ultimately connects hydrologically to Grand Traverse Bay,” says Kim Hayes, the conservancy’s farmland protection director. “My parents and siblings [Joan Dunklow and Ron Mawby] always felt a sense of stewardship, to make sure that the land was preserved and left better than we found it,” says vintner Larry Mawby. “The Leelanau Conservancy has a track record of being able to do that, and my family feels comfortable in entrusting it with that responsibility.”
photo courtesy of Leelanau Conservancy
The Mawby family and Leelanau Conservancy partnered to preserve this pastoral farm.
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Introducing the
Slopeside Bar at Otsego Resort Located on Perch near lift 3 Grab and go drinks + food
Dine in the Duck Blind Grille
Each season hosts exceptional menus that showcase their own individual flare for guest favorites and local seasonal dishes. Dining tents available.
otsegoresort.com
0321 TVM COVER.indd 3
989.732.5181
2/2/21 7:50 PM
LAKE MICHIGAN
BAY HARBOR
WALLOON LAKE
TORCH LAKE
LAKE CHARLEVOIX
The Waterfront Specialist
WALLY KIDD Associate Broker/Owner
34605 Western Shores Road on BEAVER ISLAND 600 Waterfront Feet · 11 Acres · 3 Beds · 2 Baths · $495,000
Thinking of buying or selling? Experience matters, call me.
231-838-2700 wallykidd.com 325 EAST LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY, MI 49770
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