Traverse Northern Michigan, February 2023 by MyNorth

Traverse

NORTHERN

MICHIGAN The Cool List

The Pet Psychic of Leelanau County P. 16

A Second Chance for Sled Dogs P. 36

14 WAYS

TO EMBRACE OUR

SNOWIEST SEASON P. 22

02.2023 DREAMY DRINKING CHOCOLATE / POINT BETSIE’S ICY SECRET / NICELY SPICED MOLASSES COOKIES

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FEBRUARY 2O23

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Exceptional Real Estate. Extraordinary Service. Our experienced team is there for you every step of the way.

While it may not be the season to sell, setting your home up for success is an integral step in the selling process. Learn more about what you can do now to make sure your home is ready for the market. When the time is right, reach out to our experienced real estate team to sell your luxury home. Call us at 231-923-9501 for your complimentary, no-obligation list of winter home projects that provide resale value.

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D I S COV E R D E L I G H T F U L

We’re on Lake Michigan. Panoramic views from the mountain. Crackling fires, inviting restaurants, and lively entertainment at the base. Lift and lodging packages from only $139 per person per night. All with limited lift ticket sales.

Discover delightful skiing, delightfully free of crowds.

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Building and Renovating Northern Michigan’s Finest Residences

Y r

joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168

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features 02 . 23

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH, PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.

LEADER OF THE PACK You’ve heard of the crazy cat lady? Meet her remarkably logical foil, Sarah Dobbrastine— Munson nurse by night; indefatigable mom of 25 huskies by day. B Y LY N D A W H E A T L E Y PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

photo by Dave Weidner

THE SECRET LIFE OF PETS

THE COOL LIST

DEEP WINTER DISPATCH

Maple City’s Catherine Siterlet doesn’t just talk to animals. They talk back. BY KIM SCHNEIDER

14 ways to twirl, stomp, glide, surf and simply find delight in the North’s deep snow and frosted landscapes.

Photographer Erik Olsen snowshoes into the U.P.’s Canyon Falls to bear witness to the quiet intensity winter has over this shifting landscape.

PHOTOS BY ALLISON JARRELL

B Y A L L I S O N J A R R E L L & C A R LY S I M P S O N

P H O T O E S S AY B Y E R I K O L S E N

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CLASSIC DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY CHARM! Walkable to all the great features of Traverse City 4 Bedrooms, 2.5 Baths Spacious, open floor plan Loads of natural light

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DEPART M E N TS 7 | EDITOR'S NOTE

Ann Porter

9 | UP NORTH

ASSOCIATE BROKER

231.944.4959

Meet a Charlevoix metalsmith who uses recycled precious metals and beach finds to create heirloom jewelry; take the kids on a guided wildlife hike at Historic Mill Creek Discovery Park; new businesses across Northern Michigan.

Ann@AnnPorterTC.com Visit AnnPorterTC.com for more information.

Elizabeth Blair

FinePearls

13 | EVENTS

February is full of dinner soirées, live music, lantern-lit hikes and the inaugural Traverse City Comedy Festival.

44 | ON THE TABLE

We’ve got the recipe for Sugar 2 Salt’s famous molasses cookies. Yep, the ones with the ginger glaze.

46 | LAST CALL

Locally made drinking chocolate is the most decadent thing you can pour your Valentine.

48 | LOVE OF THE LAND

Find ethereal ice formations at Point Betsie Lighthouse.

15 | OUTDOORS

Everyday Luxe 115 W. Main Street ~ Harbor Springs, MI 231.526.7500 WestMainPearls.com ~ ElizabethBlair.com Jewelers of America Cultured Pearl Association of America American Gem Society

top photo by Allison Jarrell // inset photo by Dave Weidner

The snow-loving crew at The Highlands knows how to have fun all winter long.

41 | CULINARY NORTH

You’ve got to try the tiramisu at 876 Baldwin; plus, grab American Spoon’s Paloma mix for a lovely dose of Vitamin C in cocktail form. Follow Us On Social Media facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

ON THE COVER Snowshoeing Canyon Falls PHOTO BY ERIK OLSEN

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Traverse

NORTHERN

MICHIGAN A MyNorth Media Publication

Vol. 42 | No. 09

PRESIDENT

Michael Wnek Cara McDonald

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

SENIOR EDITOR FEATURES EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR DIGITAL CONTENT & SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST CULINARY COLUMNIST

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PROOFREADERS

Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Kandace Chapple Kim Schneider Lynda Wheatley

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Tim Hussey Theresa Burau-Baehr

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson Julie Parker Erin VanFossen Mike Alfaro Ann Gatrell Julie James Meg Lau Kirk Small

DIRECTOR OF SALES SALES COORDINATOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING COORDINATOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Travel + Leisure’s No.1 Resort in Michigan 4127 M-75 Walloon Lake, MI | (231) 535-5000

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EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICES

415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 SUBSCRIBER SERVICES

Visit MyNorth.com/Account to renew your subscription, change your address, or review your account. Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800-678-3416 between 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan, 1 Broadcast Way, Cadillac, MI 49601. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $29.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $6.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2023, Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

NORTHE Traverse

M I C H I G RN AN T he C o ol MYNORTH.COM/SUBSCRIBE List NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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editor's note WIN AN AUTUMN WEEKEND IN CHARLEVOIX MYNORTH.COM/CHAR15

PLUS: Northern Home and Cottage 2015 Petoskey Area Home Tour

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THE LONG CROSSING

by CARA MCDONALD

’ve shared in this column that I recently went through some transitions in my life that landed me back here, at MyNorth Media and in a place that makes me wake up every day grateful for my zip code. In that process, I said goodbye to many familiar things. My home, my coven of wild friends, the mountains and maze of aspen-lined trails where I walked every day. But I also landed softly here, in the same neighborhood I called home 20 years ago. I landed in the company of old and new colleagues who make me laugh and make me coffee, and in a media family that holds a vision for us all to be a source of dignified dialogue, storytelling and celebration of our communities. It’s been both soul-draining hard and life-affirming good. Change often is. And yet so often change provokes a clenching of the shoulders, a twinge of fear that something familiar is slipping away, too, a feeling that we just don’t have the energy to face something new or re-create. Which is crazy, considering that change is just about the only constant we have. Transitions are bridges that link us from one state to another, that knit our changes into an ever-evolving whole. They remind us of the inevitability of change, but also help us mark and celebrate our growth. So forgive a little housekeeping and taking stock, here, but I want to invite you inside what’s been changing and inspiring for us in recent months. It’s a surreal pleasure to welcome back Emily Tyra, whose career, like mine, began here. We started the same summer, when I was a new assistant editor and she was our editorial intern. Over near-daily lunches of Poppycock’s tomato soup, we began a friendship and professional alliance that has been one of the great joys of my adult life. She recently helmed the magazine and returns as our features editor, and I wish you could hear her ridiculous laugh at our editorial meetings, or see the compassion with which she handles

subjects. I know you’ll see her touch in upcoming issues and throughout the stories we create just for MyNorth.com—an unflinching candor, warmth and insightful humor woven throughout. There will be more and different stories on MyNorth.com, allowing us to be playful and in the moment, creating longand short-form stories, videos and more, while the magazine offers its own exclusive storytelling found nowhere else. And you may have noticed a beautiful new element on the cover of your magazine this month—a visual reimagining of our name that highlights an aspect of it that has been a particular point of pride for decades: Northern Michigan. The name of this magazine has been in slow evolution over the last 40 years, first as Traverse, the Magazine; then Traverse, Northern Michigan, which we remain today. The shifts gave a nod to our growing coverage as the magazine of Northern Michigan and clarifies that while our home office may be in the Grand Traverse area, our travels, adventures, finds, discoveries and epic tales are gathered from all over northern lower Michigan and the U.P., and have been for decades. With our new cover look, we get to revel a little in the notion of Northern Michigan—a vast and beautiful place that is every inch our backyard, our playground and our home. It creates an opportunity for clarity and inclusivity, recognizing that Northern Michigan is both “Up North” and much more. Traverse means to travel across or through. Native hunters and French traders gave the name “La Grand Traverse” to the Traverse Bay area because of the long crossing they had to make by canoe across the bay’s mouth. It’s a beautiful word and a wonderful reminder—that this is all part of a greater journey, a long crossing leading us to our next adventure. Cara McDonald Executive Editor cara@mynorth.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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THE FIND by LYNDA WHEATLEY

Meet Christine Leader, a Charlevoix metalsmith making heirloom jewelry out of recycled precious metals and her daily beach finds.

photos by Dave Weidner

hristine leader knew she’d make art her career. But what kind of art? Fine art? Fiber? Graphic design? The answer arrived at Wayne State University, where she took her first metals class. “I fell in love,” she says.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Crystal Downs Country Club

Suzy Voltz

Now, 15 years later, through her six-year-old Charlevoix-based business—Christine Leader Michigan Metalsmith—she’s making of-themoment jewelry worthy of future generations, melding and casting recycled precious metals with natural finds she happens upon during her many daily walks.

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Lot Wooded Vacant RealEstateOne.com (231) 651-9711 suzy.voltz@gmail.com 57 N. Michigan Ave • Beulah • 231-882-4449

NATIONAL WRITERS SERIES A Year-Round Book Festival

SEASON ONE 2023

Look Who’s Coming to the Writers Series…

Friday, February 10 • Virtual + Watch Party*

NINA TOTENBERG

NPR correspondent Nina Totenberg will discuss her extraordinary memoir, Dinners with Ruth. It is an accounting of her personal successes, struggles, and life-affirming relationships, including her beautiful friendship of nearly 50 years with Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg.

Wednesday, May 3 • City Opera House

JEANNETTE WALLS

Meet Jeannette Walls, the #1 New York Times bestselling author of The Glass Castle, her unforgettable childhood memoir. Her newest novel, Hang the Moon, follows the journey of Sallie Kincaid, a feisty and fearless young woman who charts her own path to success during Prohibition.

Friday, May 12 • City Opera House

CHASTEN BUTTIGIEG

Readers of all ages will love this middle grade adaptation of the hopeful and refreshingly candid memoir by Chasten Buttigieg about growing up gay in his hometown of Traverse City. His memoir, I Have Something to Tell You, recounts his journey to find acceptance and self-love.

Tuesday, June 13 • City Opera House

GERALDINE BROOKS

Bestselling author Geraldine Brooks’ newest novel spans nearly 170 years of American history. Based on the remarkable true story of Lexington, JEANNETTE WALLS a record-breaking thoroughbred, Horse is a novel of art and science, love and obsession, and our unfinished reckoning with racism.

All events take place at the City Opera House and are livestreamed

* This event is virtual with an option to attend an in-person “Watch Party”

To see our full season visit NationalWritersSeries.org

Yet, it isn’t the metal-smithing that moves her. “It’s the finding,” she says. That moment, pinned between hope and exaltation, in a raindrenched forest, on a wind-bitten shore, or even in an asphalt-pocked downtown alley, when Leader’s eyes alight on something: “I feel like I stumbled upon magic.” Shards of Lake Michigan beach glass, tiny fossils, a single agate among measly old pieces of quartz, and, once in Copper Harbor, a rare Michigan greenstone. The flat, fern-like needles of a northern white cedar. A single cicada wing forgotten between blades of grass. Each one a part of Leader’s imagination and alchemy. “There are things all around us that we walk right past—these little things in life that we never noticed,” she says. “And, you know, when you find these things, it’s really just moments of true and sheer joy.” clmetalsmith.com

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Up North Kids & Family ^ NEW UP NORTH Cool finds, community updates and sweet new businesses. HAMPTON INN AND SUITES MANISTEE

This new Hilton-branded five-story hotel is located on the former site of the Lake Shore Motel. It will feature approximately 100 rooms, an indoor pool with an indoor and outdoor hot tub, and a fitness center. A fifth-floor bar and restaurant overlooking Lake Michigan will be open to the public, and a seasonal beach bar will be a fab spot to watch the sunset. facebook.com/ StayOnLakeMichiganHamptonInn

PLAY NATURE DETECTIVE— ON SNOWSHOES A short and sweet snowshoe hike ideal for your sweets-loving short stuffs, the February 11 hike at Historic Mill Creek Discovery Park in Mackinaw City invites families to follow resident naturalist Kyle Bagnall in a search for signs of winter wildlife: singing snowbirds, frosty tracks, cozy hidey-holes, and—if you’re, uh … lucky—fresh scat! With two hours to cover two miles along the creek and through the North Woods, young Sherlocks will have plenty of time to poke around and play, but there’s a good incentive to keep ’em trekking: a post-walk bonfire in a forest clearing where s’mores await. Admission is by donation. Meet in the parking lot by 2 p.m., and BYO snowshoes (or boots, if no snow). mackinacparks.com -Lynda Wheatley

THE NORTH ROOM CADILLAC

Owned by Charming North clothing and décor shop, this elegant event venue has more than 2,000 square feet of open and versatile space. The North Room is rich in historical character and details such as original wood floors, exposed brick wall, tin ceilings, vintage light fixtures and more. charmingnorth.com/northroom SISTER BEES BOUTIQUE LUDINGTON

Sister Bees opened its first brickand-mortar store in November. Browse an array of their all-natural skin-and home-care products made from beeswax and honey. In addition to their own products, they sell handcrafted, earthy and local items from other makers. sisterbees.com THIRD LIFE BREWING COMPANY MANISTEE

This community-focused nanobrewery located in Manistee’s iconic Iron Works building offers a tasting room with eight beers on draft, with wine and cider coming soon. Outside food is welcome. thirdlifebrewing.com Know of a business that just opened or have a fun community update? Let us know at editorial@traversemagazine.com.

More Winter Stomping Grounds Jeff Lamont Preserve: First-timers love this .15-mile hike near Northport because its flat trail slips alongside magical stands of hemlock and cattails—and allows pets on leashes. leelanauconservancy.org

Oden Preserve: Hard to believe this old-growth forest on Crooked Lake could have been razed for a 34-unit subdivision, but thanks to Little Traverse Conservancy, it’s now a 50-acre wetland wonderland with a 1-mile loop. landtrust.org

Pyatt Lake: This lovely little .75-mile loop of wooded dune and swale on Old Mission Peninsula holds a secret lake (and cool overlook). gtrlc.org

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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YOU’RE INVITED

Named “Most Beautiful Place in America” by the viewers of Good Morning America, and sitting pretty on National Geographic’s list of “21 Best Beaches in the World.” There are plenty of places to vacation, but nowhere comes close to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. You don’t have to take our word for it though. Come experience the magic of Northern Michigan for yourself.

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TIX Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

February edited b y ALLISON JARRELL

THU

SAT

The North American Vasa returns, continuing a 47-year tradition that celebrates cross-country skiing and winter sports. All races begin and end at Timber Ridge in Traverse City. Feb. 11–12. vasa.org

SAT

Shake off the winter blues at the annual family-friendly Winterlochen festival (free!), hosted by Interlochen Center for the Arts. Enjoy wild outdoor activities like human snow bowling and a frozen fish toss before warming up indoors with creative crafts for children of all ages. interlochen.org

FRI

Interlochen Arts Academy’s Popular Music Ensemble teams up with the academy’s singersongwriter majors to share a selection of original songs at Traverse City’s City Opera House. cityoperahouse.org

FRI

Downtown Harbor Springs´ Ice Fest returns with live ice carving demonstrations, more than 30 ice sculptures, dueling chainsaws, a chili cook-off, sleigh rides and more outdoor activities. Feb. 10–11. petoskeyarea.com

SAT

Gopherwood Concerts welcomes folk siren Abigail Stauffer and her acoustic, pop and neo-soul music to the Cadillac Elks Lodge. MyNorthTickets.com

FRI

Head to downtown Boyne City for the sweetest celebration in Northern Michigan. Chocolate Covered Boyne features a dessert contest, tasty specials, treats and sales offered by 30 local businesses. Feb. 10–11. boynecitymainstreet.com

THU

Cheer on mushers and their sled dogs as they take on the 228-mile UP200 (an Iditarod qualifier). The course runs from Marquette to Grand Marais and back again through forested lands and wilderness. Feb. 16–20. up200.org

photo by Courtney Kent

The Traverse City Comedy Fest features a mix of stand-up performances, improv, podcast tapings and specialty shows. More than 40 comedians—including national headliners and regional favorites—will appear on stage over the three-day laugh-fest. Feb. 2–4. MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

18 SAT

Embark on a serene, lantern-lit snowshoe hike at Ludington State Park. Sixty pairs of snowshoes are available to use, free of charge. Meet at the warming shelter near the entrance to the park. pureludington.com

Otsego Resort’s annual Winter Wine Walk returns, offering an opportunity to walk, snowshoe or cross-country ski to wine-tasting stations with light food pairings. Trek from the resort’s River Cabin to a roaring bonfire at the Beaver Dam (with sips and bites along the way!). MyNorthTickets.com

SUN

Enjoy incredible dining specials during Traverse City Restaurant Week, through March 4. downtowntc.com

FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Black tie or casual, big or small we can transform our event space into all that you desire.

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outdoors

for practicing trust falls, front flips and flying through the air upsidedown Spiderman-style. SNO-GO BIKES

If skiing black diamonds isn’t in your future, Sno-Go bikes are a great way to get on the mountain for a scenic morning ride or a day of shredding. Combining bicycle handlebars with new skiing technology, these bikes are super stable and work in all types of snow conditions. The best part? Beginners are welcome here. Every first-time renter receives an introductory lesson to get you rollin’. HORSEBACK RIDES

WINTER’S SPOILS by RACHEL SOULLIERE AND ALLISON JARRELL

Snowy season isn’t just for skiing. Here are four ways to enjoy cold-weather temps and fresh powder off the slopes in Harbor Springs.

photo courtesy of Rachel Soulliere

orseback riding. Ziplining. Sno-Go biking. An enchanted snowshoe trail. While The Highlands at Harbor Springs claims the highest vertical and most skier and rider-accessible acreage in Michigan’s Lower Peninsula, the ski resort is also making a name for itself beyond the slopes. We recently stopped by and tried a few cold-weather activities ourselves—and highly recommend these four for a wild winter getaway. ZIPLINE ADVENTURES

The Highlands describes their high-speed ziplining as an “all thrills, no skills” activity for adventure seekers, and that’s pretty spot-on. With eight different ziplines (the longest is a quarter of a mile and 1,320 feet up from the ground) and one bridge to traverse, there’s plenty of space

Experiencing the resort’s trail system via horseback is a must-do year-round, but it’s especially magical when the grounds are blanketed in snow. Experienced guides will lead you along a serene trail during an hour-long ride that begins and ends at The Highlands Equestrian Center. Reservations are required; call 231.526.3030. THE ENCHANTED TRAIL

Once night falls, this one-and-a-half-mile roundtrip snowshoe or walk leads to a rustic yurt in the forest, where you can snuggle up around a bonfire, make s’mores and grab a cocktail or a cup of hot cocoa. Soak in the sparkling lights illuminating your path to and from the yurt, as well as interactive installations such as the “Sing!” stop, where visitors who pause to share a song are rewarded with a show of lights. BONUS: WARM UP WITH ONSITE DINING

After a full day in the elements, there are a variety of restaurant options to choose from on the resort grounds. But we’re most excited about the new Italian pop-up dining experience that opened in December at the Country Club of Boyne—Bella Sorpresa. Cozy up around the fireplace, sip some pre-dinner bubbly and indulge in home-cooked Italian specialties like the house favorite porcini vellutata, a velvety soup featuring porcini mushrooms, or the anatra, a Culver Farms duck breast with fondant potato and poached pears. The eatery is open Wednesdays through Saturdays until early March; reservations recommended. highlandsharborsprings.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Maple City’s Catherine Siterlet doesn’t just talk to animals. They talk back.

The Secret Life of Pets

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here’s a dusting of snow over this hobby farm in Long Lake Township near Traverse City as Catherine Siterlet steps into the barn to stand nose to muzzle with an imposing horse. The two are having a quiet chat about the fact the horse is a bit bored—wild groups of deer haven’t been passing by as often this winter—and that he’s feeling better physically but his medicine gums up his mouth a bit. Could Siterlet ask the owners to mix the powder with a bit of water? My presence is apparently an annoyance, though. “She’s afraid of horses,” the horse, Shaddai, tells Siterlet, who is an animal communicator by trade. She glances steadily to me as she translates the conversation. “Tell her to move back.” Shaddai’s owners are loyal clients of Siterlet who often seek her advice about the health or behavior of their horses, cats, dogs, even a crested Polish chicken that started foaming at the mouth one day. (Turns out she just wanted to be held on her owner’s lap for an hour because she overate.) And they aren’t alone. This down-to-earth Maple City woman has tracked lost animals and helped find criminal suspects. She’s been hired by a Montana horse res- by Kim Schneider cue to identify complex medical issues, by a Prague zoo looking for a sea lion that got lost during a flood, by families around the world looking to better understand a pet. A woman in a relationship being thwarted by a cat turned to Siterlet and discovered the reason for the paw prints repeatedly left on the boyfriend’s new truck: “You need to get rid of him,” the cat apparently said. “He doesn’t work, doesn’t help pay rent!” One client made an emergency call to her after a vet told her to euthanize a dog suffering from internal bleeding. The dog told Siterlet it had eaten fertilizer and that it’s going to get better on its own. Hindsight washed over the caller: “Oh my gosh. I spilled some on the lawn!” Siterlet, who is also a trained fiber artist and former biological technician with the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore and the U.S. Forest Service, learned years ago how to merge her natural telepathic gifts with her scientist’s training and artist’s sensibilities. Some call her an animal whisperer, others an interpreter. She says she’s called to the role for a clear reason, that “communicating with your animals dramatically enhances your relationship with them.” And what they tell her is truly fascinating and helpful to both animal and owners. Even if photos by Allison Jarrell the message isn’t what you expect. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Case in point on this bitterly cold afternoon: Siterlet moves to the stall of Guinness, a 24-year-old rescue horse whose reading unfolds in stark contrast to that of his more confident barnmate. Guinness has an apparent inferiority complex—and a dream. This horse doesn’t mind having me around (“She has a pure heart,” the horse apparently says.), but Guinness asks that a visitor with a camera be careful not to photograph his stomach “and make me look fat.” The next message comes as even more of a surprise. “He wants the freedom to be with another family,” Siterlet tells the stunned owners. “He feels he’s no longer your responsibility. He shows a man, more middle-aged. The man has a son, maybe with special needs. It broadens his heart; he feels that’s his mission.” Then he requests a cinnamon candy. Guinness’s owner Lisa DuFort says she listens, even when she doesn’t necessarily like what comes out. She met Siterlet while working at a veterinary office and heard fascinating and sometimes life-saving stories about Siterlet’s work. Over time they became friends; DuFort became a client. Recently, Siterlet’s interpretation helped her pause over an impossible decision regarding her beloved dog named Iris, whose heart was bleeding after a fateful leap from a pontoon. Iris’s case initially appeared hopeless without a risky surgery. Euthanizing was the next step. “Her words are burned in my memory,” DuFort says of Siterlet. “‘She has a small tear in her heart, but it will scar over.’ Within a half hour, Iris was sitting up, within an hour she was walking, and she jumped out of the car when we got home.”

“I get

home of a friend as she shares a phone number for a someone who might help me with a fundraiser I mention, and the name of a yoga teacher whose class I might like. First, we both sit on the floor, taking Meeko’s lead, near shelves lined with books like “Your Sixth Sense” and “The Nature of Animal Healing.” And the reading begins. When Siterlet closes her eyes, she explains, it allows her to shut out the physical things in her vision, quiet down and go into a different wave of the brain. “I get images and pictures, and I get auditory clues,” she says. Her intuitive gifts have always come as a package deal. “I’m all three—clairvoyant, clairsentient and clairaudient.” She’s silent for a minute, then her eyelids start to flutter. Siterlet asks simply for the animal’s name, age and breed, and her expression turns to a serene, beaming smile as she starts sharing all that’s popping into Meeko’s busy head. Meeko is a 17-month-old Pomsky— half husky, half Pomeranian. Siterlet’s first messages reveal a small identity crisis. “The first thing she says is ‘Why aren’t I bigger? When am I going to get big?’” Siterlet shares. “Then she says, ‘I love snow, I love snow.’” She also suggests I dress her in something pink, “And then she dances around like she’s really, really happy.” Siterlet continues, “She says you walk crooked [true, from a recent injury] and you need better boots. And she goes, ‘Don’t worry so much.’ She’s flipping her hair like she’s just styling herself. She feels she’s stunning.”

images and

pictures, and I get

auditory clues,”

she says. “I’m all

three—

clairvoyant,

clairsentient and

I’ve come to the animal interpreter’s home headquarters in rural Maple City to see what’s going through the mind of my dog, Meeko, a gentle soul who is pure puppy. Siterlet welcomes us into her home, which doubles as an art studio. One room is filled with the looms she uses to weave soft, luxurious natural fiber garments, throws and shawls. Her textiles are showcased on shelves and hanging in the hallway. Art fills the walls of the airy living room, too, in clusters of paintings of barns and lakeshore scenes. Before we move into the library she uses for readings, she’s identified something about Meeko’s digestion, going into her pantry and handing me a can of pumpkin to add by the teaspoon to her food. I forget I haven’t just come to the 18

clairaudient.”

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My pet is apparently more high maintenance than I’d ever imagined, sending, Siterlet tells me, an image of a shop vac she’d like me to use to clean all cat hair from around her dish, and later one of those lint brushes used on clothing. She suggests I change the name of our new rescue cat named Heidi to “Bitey.” Then the reading goes a bit deeper. I toss out a question: “Has she lived before?” “She said: ‘How’d you think I got this smart?’” Catherine shares with a laugh. “She says she took care of you when you were little. She was a black dog.” I did, in fact, have a black dog while growing up whose name was Pywacket. A mix of advice and predictions keep coming for more than an hour: that I have untapped creativity and should be doing artwork, and that I’ll meet five people who’ll share my motivation toward creating change, inspired by a recent trip to rural Africa. Siterlet was unaware of this trip, as she was of many other things she reveals. “She shows me an image of you walking forward with a little pendant flag … you trying to make people aware of the state of the world,” she says of Meeko. “She says your compassion in your heart sometimes overwhelms you and you should think smaller. But she’s like a little manager for you, like she’s carrying your briefcase. She thinks partly because she’s in your life you’ll always have success. She’s very confident. She’s a very confident dog.” Siterlet didn’t set out to be a pet psychic, but she has always deeply loved animals. She developed close bonds with her own childhood dogs and horses while growing up on a farm in Pinckney, Michigan, in a household of 12,

Animal interpreter Catherine Siterlet visits with a horse named Shaddai and hears from the animals at Camp Dubbonet, including a goat who shared thoughts about her owner’s taste in audio books.

which included her grandparents, a carpenter father and a stay-at-home mom who’d later train to become a social worker. She had a tendency to “know things,” especially with a pair of younger siblings who were twins. But—call it kid logic—she figured everybody had a similar gift. As a young woman she learned she was most at ease when she could throw on some boots and be out and about in nature, so she followed her passion for science, focusing on earth science but double-majoring in art, and eventually earning both her B.S. and M.A. at Central Michigan University. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Siterlet has excelled in jobs from a forestry tech working in Michigan’s national forests, to an exotic species mapper at Sleeping Bear Dunes, to being on initial attack firefighter crews taking on wildfires for the U.S. Forest Service. But always, she says, she tried to seek a balance, also teaching art classes and weaving textiles the pastel colors of the lake-rich Michigan landscape in which she has long worked. The work in metaphysical consulting was almost an accident. By happenstance, she accompanied a friend one day to a reading with a psychic. The reading was so accurate, she wanted to figure out how the woman knew those things. She started studying the craft, even asking the psychic to come to Northern Michigan to teach workshops on intuitively accessing information. She then studied with nationally known instructors, and her abilities earned her a scholarship to study in England with Rupert Sheldrake, a British scientist and author of the book “Dogs That Know When Their Owners Are Coming Home and Other Unexplained Powers of Animals.” He’d become one of her most influential teachers: Sheldrake’s work showed that dogs know if the owner is going to give them a treat or take them for a walk, even before the person got up or took out the leash. He was a pioneer, too, in the study of how plants and trees communicate among themselves. Siterlet immersed herself in this world. “When I learned the format for accessing information, I found there’s information around everything—a plant, a person, an animal, even a building or a car.” She gets that it’s hard to explain—or for others to understand—how her process works. People have asked, for instance, if German horses talk to her in German, or whether she communicates differently if reading a kangaroo or a horse. But it comes down to an even more pure form of communication. She explains that she is “tapping into the morphic field of information,” retrieving pictures, images, senses and sounds that are stored in the energy field around people and animals. She says animals present information so she can 20

hear it, visually see it in her mind and experience it with her senses. While it was at first overwhelming to have all of this information coming at her as she went anywhere, she honed a technique of having people ask questions, one that gives her permission to access, retrieve—and ultimately share—the information. Siterlet explains, “It’s not appropriate for me to cross that line unless you ask. When I first started, a dog came up to me at a horse farm and said, ‘Tell my owner it doesn’t hurt.’ I told a friend, who said, ‘There’s the owner. Go tell her.’ I did. She burst out crying. She had just found out the dog had cancer.” She’s now fully embraced the gift, and her animal communicator role. Siterlet says she doesn’t see it as different—at its core—from her jobs working with the U.S. Forest or National Park Services. That word, service, has always been inherent to the work. “I like being of service to the land and to animals and their owners, educating people,” she says. “I’m not an animal behaviorist. I just relay information.” Catch siterlet’s answering machine and get a clue to another key personality trait: humor. “I was just thinking of you!” the recording says, before asking you to leave your number. It’s a peek into the fact she likes to demystify the gift as well as use it, in part by offering classes and workshops as well as readings. This day, four students, me among them, have gathered around her dining room table for an introductory class. Each of us hope to hone intuitive abilities by learning the vocabulary and quieting the mind. One is a return client, Tina Brill of North Carolina. She heard about Siterlet and her unusual gifts five years ago, after her husband passed away from a long illness and left her in a deep depression. “Catherine, I have to tell you, you saved my life,” Brill shares. She hired her both for help with pets and as a psychic medium. In one reading, her husband was making gingerbread cookies with her folks in the afterlife, and said, likely with his trademark mischievous grin: “We’re writing on them the names of people we don’t like and biting their heads off !” “I was able to know [my husband] was ok. His humor came through, and he was with my folks and kitties who had passed. It’s true validation.” Candles flicker near a spread of tea and cookies as we attendees line up our chairs, listen to a meditation and are instructed to spread silent light and love toward one another and see what images come to mind. The key, Siterlet tells us, is to hone the gift like you would any other: by practicing. I think I’ve picked up a white aura around Brill’s head as I shoot healing light toward her shoulders like a visual back rub. But that’s all I’ve got. Come her turn to share, she reads the color blue (“Do you love water?”), says I need a vacation and got the oddly specific: “I’m picturing you should maybe retire and make soap with elephant tokens inside.”

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You won’t find more grateful clients of Siterlet’s than those who run animal rescues. Johnna Hiatt, founder of Hiatt Equestrian Rescue in Montana, occasionally hires Siterlet to communicate with every horse in the rescue and see what the organization might do to help them. In one case, Siterlet swore a horse had more life force after medical experts said there was nothing more they could do—and the horse lived. Some horses have asked for a job working with kids, others to get out more, with others saying they love their food and their space. “It makes you love them even more,” Hiatt says. “I don’t know how much more I could do, but it makes me find ways of doing more any way I can.” Dani Merrill, the owner of Bellwether Harbor animal

after the animal rescue as a fundraiser.) But how could the cat know this? Siterlet breaks it down: “They live with you; they’re connected to your morphic field … you also have a social field, a physical field. They pick up your thoughts and intentions.” And they pick up on situational needs. Siterlet solved the puzzle of a Doberman named Ginger, at the shelter for over two years, who was acting up every time a prospective adoptive family came in for just one reason. The dog told Siterlet, “I’m the only purebred dog in the shelter. I think people need something to look at!” With the psychic’s help, Ginger was soon adopted. The fact that much of what comes out seems a little random is actually reassuring, Merrill says. “She shares what she hears or sees and doesn’t filter it out,” Merrill explains. “She’s helped so many people better understand what their animals are thinking and feeling.” As i sit in Siterlet’s living room while she reads Meeko, I find myself not wanting it to end. When asked what Meeko thinks of our new cats she deadpans, “They belong in a jungle.” I let some of Meeko’s earlier messages sink in… she thinks I should stop worrying about what I should do with my life and start celebrating my success. Also, from Siterlet, I learn what should be obvious. If you don’t want a dog to bark, don’t say or think “bark.” Think “quiet.” “Both animals and people have this morphic field of information around them,” Siterlet says. “Your energy is collected in your aura. What you think … she picks up.” Now Siterlet closes her eyes and calls out, “Question?” for one last time. I hesitate and she announces that Meeko has said that she’s done. “She says you have more questions,” Siterlet says, “You just don’t know what they are yet.”

“Both

animals

and people have this

morphic field

of information around them.”

Opposite: Lisa DuFort connects with her horse, Cayo, during Siterlet’s reading. This page: Siterlet and Meeko have a little post-session frolic in the snow.

rescue in West Michigan, says she’s endlessly surprised by what rescue cats and dogs say when asked what they’re looking for in a new home (she’s heard “kids, but no guns” or “a man with a black pickup truck”). But sometimes the most useful things are just the basics, like knowing how to comfort a scared dog or cat with a blanket of their favorite color. One time, an office cat was showing signs of stress by licking off her fur. It turns out, she was sharing in Merrill’s stress over shelter funding. (The cat even had a solution, shared through Siterlet: make and sell “Bell” butter, named

Update: Since this reporting, Guinness the horse is still trotting around the Traverse City countryside and enjoying his cinnamon candies—no new home yet. Meeko received a pink harness and matching leash, and has tamed the wild lions at home, who wrestle and (sometimes) snuggle with her. She’s still stunning. For more on Siterlet’s classes or readings, visit thewovenspirit.com Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. Allison Jarrell is an associate editor of MyNorth Media and Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. allison@mynorth.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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THE COOL LIST 14 WAYS TO SIMPLY FIND DELIGHT IN THE NORTH’S DEEP SNOW AND FROSTED LANDSCAPES.

BY ALLISON JARRELL & C A R LY S I M P S O N

BEACH WALK

ichigan beaches often see fantastical ice formations pop up in the winter months, begging for off-season beach walks that take on a magical vibe. You never know what you’ll come across—from ice balls and pancake ice, to stunning ice caves and crystals that resemble blooming flowers. Two great spots to start scouting — Leelanau and Benzie counties: ice caves and pancake ice often form along Lake Michigan’s shoreline. Perfectly rounded ice boulders were spotted last year along Esch Road beach in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Note: Use caution when venturing near ice formations. It's best to stay close to shore and take in the view from there.

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photo by Heather Higham *Photo taken in 2019

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STOMP

photo by Troy A. Raymond

photo by Jamie Ball

antern-lit and moon-lit night hikes are a favorite Northern Michigan winter pastime, as evidenced by the vast array to choose from. Head up to Tahquamenon Falls State Park to snowshoe a one-mile trail lit by more than 70 kerosene lanterns every Saturday in February; join a candlelight hike at Mt. McSauba in Charlevoix every Friday night this month; or visit Grass River Natural Area in Bellaire on February 3 for a moon-lit guided snowshoe walk, and look for the sights and sounds of nocturnal fauna.

3 TRAIL RIDE

nother time-honored way for Michiganders to brave the elements and cruise the winter landscape is by snowmobile, with the accompanying culture of hearty preride breakfasts and warming bowls of chili in dive bars along the way. Sitting smack dab in the middle of 500 miles of trail across eight counties, Gaylord is home to some of the most sublime sledding in the state. And with its snowbelt location, lake-effect snowfall coats the area all winter long, making for epic riding conditions. Jump on the popular Trail #7 that runs north to the U.P., take Trail #4 west through East Jordan and Mancelona, head east to Johannesburg and Lewiston, or ride south to the forests surrounding Frederic and Grayling.

4 STREAK

magine flying across a frozen lake at speeds between 60 and 100 mph on a craft that’s basically on ice skates. Welcome to the sport of ice boating. Conditions must be perfect—at least two miles of ice, 4 inches or thicker, with few cracks or holes. Wind speeds of 12 mph are ideal; helmets are a must. Ice picks are a good idea, too, ya know, in case you fall through the ice. Want to see these boats in action? Elk Lake, Lake Leelanau and Grand Traverse Bay are good spots to watch. Discover more about this sport: link.mynorth.com/iceboating

REEL

ur winter lakes come to life as ice hardens and the air buzzes with the chatter of laughter, the buzz of snowmobiles and the emergence of tiny communities clustered around augered holes in the ice. With three large inland lakes (Cadillac, Mitchell and Missaukee) and three wildly scenic rivers (Pine, Manistee and Pere Marquette), Cadillac is a four-season fishing destination. Lakes Mitchell and Cadillac are especially popular, and are known for their healthy pike, walleye, bluegill and crappie populations. In February, watch as colorful ice shanties turn frozen lakes into mini angling villages.

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TWIRL

photo by Emily Nelson

n Elk Rapids, kids and adults spin under strings of lights at the community outdoor ice rink located at the marina (118 Bridge St.). The Dam Shop, right next door, hosts the rink for The Village and offers coffee and other libations when you’re ready to warm up. The hometown eatery (open for breakfast, lunch and dinner) also livestreams the rink to a TV in the dining room for those who want to grab a bite while still keeping an eye on the kiddos. You can even borrow a pair of skates from the shed, along with hockey pucks and sticks (donations welcome if you have extra equipment at home). The Elk Rapids rink is open Monday through Friday until 9 p.m., and 11 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday.

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SWEAT

n Finland, saunas are an integral part of the culture—a ritual many take part in at least once a week. They’re known to reduce stress, improve sleep and ward off seasonal affective disorder. Following the lead of his Finnish ancestors, Traverse City native Daniel Sarya founded MI Sauna in 2020. The mobile sauna, housed in a wood-fire heated trailer, is parked at Traverse City State Park where, after sweating it out inside, some hardy souls take a cold plunge into the lake or make snow angels on shore. A private session ($280) welcomes up to 10 people, or $35 per seat for an 80-minute public session.

photos by Emily Nelson

Taking a cold plunge after a hot sauna session can improve blood flow, reduce inflammation and elevate your mood (it’s hard not to laugh when you’re doing something that’s just a little crazy). MI Sauna parks next to Grand Traverse Bay for those who want to give it a go.

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PEDAL

photo by Erik Olsen

trip worthy of every Michigander’s bucket list? Mackinac Island in winter. Bring your fat tire bikes to this secret snowy paradise and you might not see another soul on M-185, the 8.2-mile road that wraps around the entire isle. Time your ride to catch the sunset behind the Mackinac Bridge. A few lodging options and Doud’s Market remain open year-round for visitors, who can catch a flight from St. Ignace.

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SURF

photo by Grant Piering

iding Great Lakes waves in winter—snow squalls, galeforce winds and all—is not for the faint of heart. Should they choose to take the plunge, those who are practiced at the sport and familiar with the proper safety and surf etiquette will be rewarded with a brutal, and unforgettable, experience. You’ll need specific gear—a 5/4 wetsuit, hood, booties and cold-water wax at least—and nerves of steel; for practical and moral support, check in with a local outfitter.

Allison Jarrell is the associate editor of Traverse, Northern Michigan, and an avid outdoor photographer. Follow her adventures on Instagram @allisonjarrellphotography, or email her your favorite spots: allison@mynorth.com.

Carly Simpson is managing editor of Traverse, Northern Michigan, and produces MyNorth’s popular e-newsletter, The Daily Splash. Subscribe at MyNorth.com/newsletter, and follow Carly’s Up North travels on Instagram at @carlyannesimpson.

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10 GAZE

targazing may not be the first coldweather activity that comes to mind, but it definitely deserves a spot on your winter wish list. Not only are night skies less hazy in colder months, but the early nightfall also allows for a completely dark sky long before the kids’ bedtime, making this a great family outing. Head to the 280-acre Offield Family Viewlands Working Forest Reserve in Harbor Springs for some truly spectacular sky-watching—the new moon on February 20 means dark skies and more visible star clusters and galaxies.

11 TREK

T photos: Shutterstock

he same trails we cherish in summer take on a different kind of wonder in the hush of winter. Tucked at the tip of Old Mission Peninsula, Mission Point Lighthouse Park is home to miles of wooded trails that make for a beautiful snowshoe hike (note: there are some moderate elevation shifts throughout). Take a moment and amble to the water, soaking in the serene surrounds.

WHIZ

GLIDE

FACEOFF

or those who crave their snowsports paired with adrenaline, head to Negaunee in Marquette County and learn the art of luge with the Upper Peninsula Luge Club. Online reservations are open for public sliding (Fridays and Saturdays through March 12), and sliders of all ages are welcome to try this family-friendly sport.

inding a favorite trail to call your own is one of the secrets to not just surviving winter but relishing it. The Big M near Wellston offers 36 km of groomed cross-country skiing and several separate fat tire biking loops, about 20 miles, through the heart of the Manistee National Forest. After hitting the trails, warm up beside the lodge’s wood stove. (The shelter is open 24/7. Firewood is provided, but you may want to bring kindling.) There’s a moonlight ski and bike event scheduled for Feb. 4 at 7 p.m. Find more details and trail conditions online: skibigm.org.

o piped in music, no crowds, just the scrape of skates and the clatter of sticks as you chase a puck across a stretch of ice beneath an endless winter sky—such is the glory of pond hockey. Players come from as far away as Florida and Texas for the annual Labatt Blue UP Pond Hockey Championship in St. Ignace. The event draws an average of 150 teams each year, who faceoff on frozen Lake Huron. But you don’t have to be on the ice to have a great time. Spectators have just as much fun cheering on their friends and family and raising a toast downtown afterward. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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PHOTO ESSAY BY ERIK OLSEN

DISPATCH

WINTER

DEEP 30

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A PHOTOGRAPHER SNOWSHOES INTO THE U.P.’S SNOW-COATED CANYON FALLS TO BEAR WITNESS TO THE QUIET INTENSITY WINTER HAS OVER THIS SHIFTING LANDSCAPE.

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sharp wind bites on this properly cold day at Canyon Falls gorge, which, despite holding the spectator-seeking title of the “Grand Canyon of the Upper Peninsula,” is more out of the way than some of the U.P.’s regular hotspots. At Canyon Falls Roadside Park—10 miles south of the lakeside town of L’Anse—an unassuming trailhead leads to the spot where the Sturgeon River plunges into an ancient canyon. A few feet of fresh snowfall over the parking lot renders shapes softer and only vaguely discernable. The volume dial has been turned down. More than just no sound, it feels like wearing earplugs. Even color shifts toward binary. Traditional wooden snowshoes make quick work of the trek—rhythmic swishing matches each stride, revealing a self-conscious feeling

akin to coughing in a crowded library. Within the mixed forest, there’s an opening in the ice and snow, revealing fast-moving water. A cardinal darts from a perch in a nearby fir. The seemingly still and monotone environment has eyes constantly roving from one spectacle to the next. Ahead, the smooth white landscape drops away, and water charges audibly. Just past a split rail fence, the prize awaits. Glimpses of brown and gold earth appear in the dark craggy recesses of the cavern, defined features losing their battle for light. Tentacles of ice sprout from the rushing water, reaching downward, Medusalike. The drastic relief sculpture reveals a box canyon formed from dark, flat Precambrian rocks, piled in hurried stacks and leaning in all directions, and all capped by pillowed snow. Here, finally, is the cascade of the Sturgeon charging in volume, just as it has for thousands of years.

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THE SEEMINGLY STILL AND MONOTONE ENVIRONMENT HAS EYES CONSTANTLY ROVING FROM ONE SPECTACLE TO THE NEXT.

For those who have visited Canyon Falls in the fairer seasons, you owe it to yourself to discover it in winter— the contrast is striking. While trekking to the snow-laden falls, remember to pause and enjoy the pine and hardwood forest, home to snowshoe hare and a variety of bird species. The journey is just as good as the destination. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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MORE THAN JUST NO SOUND, IT FEELS LIKE WEARING EARPLUGS. EVEN COLOR SHIFTS TOWARD BINARY.

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While the gorge trail is easy to follow—keep your eyes peeled for guiding markers and boardwalks—the pathway is not maintained in the winter (but is often well-traveled). To help navigate the trail, wear snowshoes that add float and offer varying levels of traction, or consider boot chains for days when there is a well-packed path into the gorge.

Erik Olsen is an active lifestyle, commercial and editorial photographer who loves working in awe-inspiring environments. erikolsenphoto.com

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Lynda Twardowski Wheatley

You’ve heard of the crazy cat lady? Meet her remarkably logical foil, Sarah Dobbrastine—Munson nurse by night; indefatigable mom of 25 huskies by day.

Sarah Dobbrastine never set out to have 25 dogs. She started with one husky, Toby, in college. When she decided to try mushing, she borrowed three more huskies and hooked the foursome up to the only wheeled machine their combined strength and speed wouldn’t send airborne: her dad’s John Deere riding mower. She loved the fun and exercise. So did the pups. And then … ? “People just kept offering me huskies.” High-maintenance old-timers, exuberant young pups, adults deemed unfit for adoption and facing death row—Dobbrastine took them in. Soon she had her own team of four. Then five. photos by Dave Weidner Then six. “When I reached seven, I thought, I gotta figure something out to afford to feed these guys.” In 2014, she opened Second Chance Mushers, LLC, offering dog-sledding rides at Grand Traverse Resort. The extra money helped, but it wasn’t enough to cover her growing brood of canines. So, when a better-paying nursing gig in Lansing beckoned, Dobbrastine moved the whole pack down for a betterfed life. All was well until Malakai, whom Dobbrastine calls her “love-of-my-life dog,” was diagnosed with cancer. Vets amputated one leg and gave Mal six months to live. Dobbrastine quit her job and moved the pack back Up North. She wanted Mal to live out her last days doing what she loved—swimming, an obsession 36

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All 25 dogs sleep in the house—and every one of them tries to sleep in Dobbrastine’s bed. that earned her the nickname Malagator—in the place her furry family was happiest. Mal outlived the vets’ prediction by nearly two joy-filled, water-logged years. And though Dobbrastine couldn’t save Mal, she hasn’t quit rescuing huskies—now through Second Chance Mushers Rescue, which gained nonprofit status in 2020. “I’m definitely at my max point,” she says. “I mean, I was good at 22 [dogs], but then my cousin knew about three puppies that were going to be disposed of. But they were only 14 or 15 weeks old. And I had a day to make a decision. So, I drove down to mid-Michigan and picked up three puppies.” Saving huskies is easy, Dobbrastine says. It’s the daily feeding, cleaning, laundry and exercise that’s hard. She cooks up about 20 to 30 pounds of meat weekly, a combo of purchased and freezer clean-out donations, and serves it, plus several different kinds of dog foods, supplements, medications and fresh water twice each day. All 25 dogs sleep in the house—and every one of them tries to sleep in Dobbrastine’s bed. Despite working 12-hour shifts several nights a week,

Dobbrastine takes the pack outside to play, train and bond every day. If there’s snow, she’ll mush a team or two 5 to 10 miles with her sled. If there’s not, she’ll mush from a donated golf cart up and down Central Lake’s back roads. Some days, she’ll let the dogs chase her down the wooded trails around their home while she launches tennis balls from a backpack stuffed full of them. Come summer, one lucky bunch at a time gets to cruise Torch Lake on a decades-old pontoon Dobbrastine bought for them, lazing in the sun and diving in and dog paddling, Malagator style, to their heart’s content. And, of course, to Dobbrastine’s. “The thing is, people have their passions in life,” she says. “Some people might love traveling and hanging out with friends. I live to do things with my dogs.” Lynda Twardowski Wheatley is an award-winning writer specializing in stories that showcase Michigan travel and recreation, history, and the passionate folks who make this place so extraordinary. ltwriter.com Dave Weidner is a local photographer for Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. Follow him on Instagram @dzwphoto.

T R AV E R S E / F E B R UA RY 2 0 2 3

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MEET THE DOGS Second Chance Mushers offers mile-long dogsled rides at Schuss Mountain, $70, for up to two people (e.g. one adult or an adult and child, max weight 200 pounds) Thursdays through Sundays Feb. 9–March 19, as conditions allow. secondchancemushersrescue.com

Dobbrastine uses a school bus to take her fur babies on outdoor adventures all year long. Want to help? Sponsor a dog’s monthly expenses. Visit the Second Chance Mushers Rescue website and click the “Store” tab.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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VINTAGE HOMES THAT LIVE LIKE NEW (& NEW HOMES THAT FEEL VINTAGE)

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Deep Dive Into Flannel Sheets Solar Lanterns (for you AND the world) Rustic Winter Chic for Cabin Country

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Your Dream. Understood. You’ve seen it in your dreams, we’ll make it real. With our customized process and deep network of the region’s best partners, your perfect vacation home becomes reality. Let our in-house team do the hard part, so you can get to work building memories—in a home your family will treasure for generations.

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inside FEBRUARY/MARCH 2023 NORTHERN

24 08

features

departments

14 / A DESIGNER’S DREAM RENO

07 / EDITOR’S NOTE

After a decades-long renovation, the owners of one of the North’s most successful design businesses have carefully brought their 19thcentury home into the new millennium while preserving its gracious old soul.

24 / LOST IN TIME ON WALLOON LAKE

Gracing a steep slope and surrounded by ancient old-growth trees, this new lake lodge looks as though it has stood for a hundred years.

34 / FOREVER HOME

Drawn by Northern Michigan’s warm and welcoming community, the Johnsons decided to change their status from seasonal to yearround residents. They couldn’t be happier.

House Stories

08 / IN LOVE WITH

Solar Lanterns That Do Good

10 / TRENDS

Deep Dive Into Flannel Sheets

12 / MY FAVORITE SPACE

From a cozy throw to cashmere socks, designer Kelly Konoske shows how luxurious Northern winters can be. COVER PHOTO BY JASON HULET

Click on Live Here > Northern Home

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A MyNorth Media Publication Michael Wnek Cara McDonald

PRESIDENT EXECUTIVE EDITOR

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Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174. Northern Home & Cottage is published as a supplement to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. 415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684. All rights reserved. Copyright 2023, Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan.

More than 25 years of experience in building distinctive homes while exceeding the expectations of discriminating clients. jim@cooleycontracting.com NHC

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EDITOR’S NOTE

HOUSE STORIES

n the early 1960s my dad was a doctoral student in architectural history at University of Michigan. Any excursion with him—whether it be through Ann Arbor or a trip Up North to Glen Arbor to see my grandparents—was a lesson in architecture. “Look over there, Mare,” he’d cry excitedly to my mom, pointing out the car window, “There’s a Queen Anne!” Other times it would be a Greek Revival, a Gothic Revival, a just plain old Victorian … the list went on. From the back seat, I’d follow his gaze to see what the fuss was about. Invariably, there’d be some sweet, lacy slip of a home sitting demurely in the middle of a cornfield or along a tree-lined street. I grew to love what he pointed out—those pretty, decorative houses began to read like fairytales to me. Certainly they were once inhabited by beautiful young ladies and handsome young men. When we moved to Paris in 1964 so that my father could pursue a Fulbright Scholarship, the architectural history lessons grew into our family’s pastime. Most families viewed sports together. Each weekend we set out to view architecture. In Paris, those architecture-based fairy tales blossomed in my mind to stories of princesses and princes. For sure, the prince took Cinderella to live in the Louvre. As an adult, I realized I had developed a skill that largely impresses no one, except maybe myself: Judging by the style, I can often pin the date of a home’s construction to within 20 years. Obviously, my fascination with old homes is hardly unique—all you have to do is tune into HGTV to see that there is a world of people obsessed with the items found inside the walls and crevices of old homes, and with the materials and craftsmanship that defined other eras. You can count Angela and Mike Goodall as two of them. The owners of one of the most successful design firms in Northern Michigan, the Goodalls honed their skills on their own late 19th-century home in downtown Traverse City. Check out the story of their decades-long reno in this issue. But sometimes, oftentimes, homeowners want the feel and ambiance of an old home with a new build. Read on as architect Joseph Mosey, known for his period designs, deconstructs the details that make a beautiful lake lodge feel like it has stood on the Walloon Lake shoreline since Ernest Hemingway summered there. We round out this issue with a third story about a modern farmhouse—a style that just never gets old. After all, who doesn’t want to feel like they’re coming home to a fresh piece of apple pie every time they pull in the driveway?

Elizabeth Edwards is senior editor of Northern Home & Cottage. Lissa@traversemagazine.com

UpNorth design inspiration, building ideas, & decorating tips straight to your inbox monthly.

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in love with

SHINE YOUR LIGHT These pretty solar-powered lanterns brighten both the dark nights of winter and countless lives around the world. By EL I ZABETH EDWAR D S

REPLACE one lightbulb with solar light and you’ve saved 90 pounds of carbon emissions a year. That's a fact that the designers of Solight lanterns live by. While these origami-shaped solar lanterns shine in the design department, Solight’s mission is nothing less than personalized access to solar power that can help save the planet and its people. Lowering our carbon footprints should make us all feel good about using these self-charging lanterns 8

to light walkways, campsites and a multitude of other outdoor areas (they’re made from durable sailcloth and some models can even float). But Solights can also help those left in the darkness after hurricanes or other natural disasters, as well as people in developing countries that have no access to electric lights— only dangerous and unhealthy kerosene lanterns. And then there’s Ukraine and its blackouts caused by Russian strikes on its power grid: “Currently we are working to

get light to a children’s hospital in Ukraine,” a member of the Solight design team tells us. The folks at Solight assure us that their lanterns will work in Northern winters as well as summers. While you’re shopping for yourself on the Solight website, check out the Give a Light page to find out how you can help spread Solights where they are needed around the world. solight-design.com

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE FEBRUARY/MARCH 2023

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trends

DEEP DIVE INTO FLANNEL SHEETS In a world where we are all craving more cozy, flannel sheets are morphing from old-cabin staples to luxury items that turn your bed into a haven. Here’s the lowdown. By EL I ZABETH EDWAR D S

Why is flannel so often plaid? The association of plaid and flannel dates back to 17th-century Europe, where flannel originated in Wales and then spread to Scotland with its famous tartans. In America, plaid flannel was made famous by none other than Hamilton Carhartt, founder of the eponymous Michigan work-wear company. Carhartt brilliantly fabricated his work shirts from plaid flannel and the look simply took.

So, what is flannel and what makes it so cozy and warm? Flannel can be made from wool, cotton or synthetic fiber—though wool flannel is often used for clothing (think: “Mad Men” gray flannel suits). Flannel sheets are generally made from cotton or synthetic fiber. Whatever the fabric, flannel gets its softness by being brushed on either or both sides to raise its fibers—a process called napping.

Not only does this nap make it soft, but it also creates tiny, insulating pockets of air that help keep you warm. Portuguese flannel is widely considered as the softest, highest quality in the world. Flannel warmth is also gauged by its weight in either ounces or grams per square meter, GSM. The heavier the weight, the warmer it is, with most flannels running from three to six ounces or 85 to 170 grams.

Do flannel sheets have health benefits? Yes and no. If you have eczema or other skin conditions, the softness of flannel will be soothing. Another plus is that because flannel is naturally wrinkle free, it isn’t treated with formaldehyde, the carcinogenic chemical used to keep wrinkles out of most sheets. That said, flannel made from cotton is healthier than flannel made with synthetic fibers as it doesn’t contain the nasty soup of chemicals used in synthetics. And the healthiest flannel sheets of all, certainly for the planet and the people who produce them from farm to factory, are woven from organic cotton.

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FLANNEL SHEETS WE LOVE PORTUGUESE FLANNEL COSTCO Leave it to Costco to give us a home luxury we can afford. Their 100 percent American cotton flannel sheets are woven in Portugal and brushed on both sides for extra softness. 4-piece King set: $54.99

CLOUD BRUSHED ORGANIC FLANNEL COYUCHI Coyuchi textiles excel in farm-to-factoryto-consumer healthy goodness and these sheets are no exception. Made from 100-percent organic cotton grown in Turkey, woven in Portugal and extra-brushed for softness, they carry a hefty six-ounce weight. Slip between them and you won’t want to come out until the spring thaw. 4-piece King set: $308

COASTAL LANDSCAPE L.L. BEAN It’s no surprise that the legendary outfitter of cabins knows its way around a flannel sheet. Made from 100 percent cotton and woven in Portugal, these sheets more than get the job done on a cold night. The Mainebased company might have been imagining the ocean when they came up with their Coastal Landscape design, but we think it looks like our freshwater shorelines. 4-piece King set: $149 NHC

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my favorite space

Kelly Konoske Principal & President, Cottage Company Interiors

COTTAGE COMFORTS

Kelly Konoske Principal & President, Cottage Company Interiors

With every project she takes on, designer Kelly Konoske’s style is fresh, on-trend and an expression of the homeowners’ vision. But when she visits her grandparents’ cabin on Walloon Lake in winter, Kelly brings along her own cozy version of cold-weather chic. Curated by K E LLY KONO S K E

Cottage Company built and designed Kelly’s grandparents’ cottage on Walloon Lake.

KELLY KONOSKE

knows how a perfectly designed home can inspire friends and family to gather, relax, enjoy, be themselves, celebrate life’s pleasures and make the most of our beautiful region. Under her leadership, Cottage Company Interiors has become the most published and award-winning design firm in the region. She is also a recipient of the prestigious Detroit Home Design Rising Star Award, given to the top up-and-coming interior designer in the state.

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE FEBRUARY/MARCH 2023

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IF SHE HAS EXTRA ROOM SHE MIGHT ALSO THROW IN: A set of flannel classic plaid sheets by Boll & Branch. Woven in Portugal from 100 percent organic cotton, heathered yarns that are then brushed for softness and sheared to resist piling. (Read more about the wonders of flannel sheets on page 10.)

FOR HER DREAM VALENTINE'S GETAWAY WITH HER HUSBAND, KELLY WOULD:

Make mugs of red velvet hot chocolate (she likes the recipe from The Spruce Eats), and sip them in front of the fire wrapped in a fringed alpaca throw by McGee & Co.

WHAT KELLY PACKS FOR A WINTER WEEKEND AT THE CABIN:

Ice skates for those magical days when Walloon Lake freezes over.

Her Nili Lotan Hawthorn Sweater, made in Peru from 100 percent wool.

Cashmere socks, hat and gloves by N.Peal, the Londonbased, eco-friendly purveyor of cashmere to the stars. NHC

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house and home

A DESIGNER’S DREAM RENO THE STORY OF KITCHEN CHOREOGRAPHY, ONE OF THE MOST SUCCESSFUL DESIGN FIRMS IN NORTHERN MICHIGAN, BEGAN WHEN OWNERS MIKE AND ANGELA GOODALL PURCHASED THEIR OWN HOME. By E L I Z A B E T H E DWA R D S / Photos by JAS O N H U L E T

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE FEBRUARY/MARCH 2023

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wenty - six years ago , when mike and Angela Goodall moved to Traverse City, they bought acreage out of town where they planned to build a home in the countryside—a longtime dream of Mike’s. In the meantime, the couple rented a house on 16th Street, just blocks from downtown. About the time they were getting ready to start building, Mike told Angela that he liked city living more than he’d expected. Angela was thrilled, and the couple agreed to sell their property and look for an intown home. After months of fruitless searching, they passed a home on Union Street, and Mike pointed to a For Sale sign in the front yard: “That’s what we’re looking for,” he said. Initially, the home was out of the couples’ price range, but

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a few months later the price was lowered, and the Goodalls jumped at the chance to buy it. The 1895 home was stuffed with antiques (the homeowners had been antique dealers) and needed plenty of work, but the couple could see potential. They closed on the home on December 12. That day, Angela left work early and had it decorated from top to bottom for the holidays by the time Mike arrived home. Angela, who had majored in math, was discovering her inner designer. When he wasn’t at his job with Elmer’s Crane & Dozer, Mike, working with his father, replaced the home’s roof (first removing three layers of asphalt shingles and one of cedar shake), then the furnace and wiring. Three years into it, the couple finally turned to updating the old kitchen. Using her math background and a new-found gift for

USING HER MATH BACKGROUND AND A NEW-FOUND GIFT FOR THREE-DIMENSIONAL VISIONING, ANGELA DRAFTED PLANS FOR

CUSTOM CABINETRY.

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Clockwise: Removing a load bearing wall and re-locating the bathroom made room for expanding the kitchen to include a new peninsula outfitted with a vegetable sink and beverage refrigerator. The inset glass cabinet is original to the home—though Mike added the glass door. “Even though I was in this home for 20 years before we did this kitchen, it took time for me to realize how I would actually use the new space,” Angela says. “So I moved back into the kitchen and spent about three months working in it to see where I naturally gravitated to storing implements, before I added all of these very specific dividers.” One of the only disappointments for Mike when they purchased the home was that it lacked a fireplace—so the ingenious couple put one in, a feat that included moving some of the home’s HVAC and creating a steel structure in the floor to support it being recessed into the framework, so it would look like it had always been there. Outfitted with an antique mantel from Belgium and faced glass tile from Tile Bar, the fireplace looks as though it is original to the old home. Angela found the carved lions on eBay.

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“When we bought the house it was white with red brick, and I knew I always wanted to live in a yellow house. The first summer we owned it, I came home and Mike was having it painted happy yellow for me,” Angela says. A new addition that connects the home to the garage offers both a utilitarian entry and extra pantry/storage space. The pink cupboards and blue closet are indicative of Angela’s love of color. “These two colors [PPG, Chili Pepper and C2, A Cappella] were the ones that spoke to me. I really want things to be bright and happy when we get home,” she says. “I tend to be fairly traditional in nature but nobody really likes the formality of a traditional design, and so by using the brighter colors—whimsical elements—I think you still maintain something that is timeless, but is more up to date.”

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Photo by Maconochie Photography

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NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE FEBRUARY/MARCH 2023

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A breakfast table off the newly remodeled kitchen doubles as a place for friends to hang out while Angela cooks. The handmade glass in the kitchen cabinetry (as well as the glass in the door from the garage entry) are by Guido Goldkuhle, owner of kuhl doors. The stenciled flowers are by Rick and Linda Smith of Artistic Innovations.

three-dimensional visioning, Angela drafted plans for custom cabinetry. When the cabinetmaker they hired saw Angela’s plans, he asked her to design for his business. That job launched Angela’s career as a kitchen designer, and in 2003 the couple founded Kitchen Choreography with Angela as lead designer and Mike as project manager. Several years later, they also founded their custom woodshop, Symphony Cabinetry. Meanwhile, Angela was still not completely satisfied with her own kitchen’s remodel. The couple had originally eyed taking out a load-bearing wall between the kitchen and a small bathroom, then moving the bathroom to where a small bedroom was to enlarge the kitchen. But in those early years they lacked the confidence and weren’t one hundred percent sure they had the construction expertise to pull it off. Fast-forward almost two decades and the Goodalls, who have nearly a thousand projects across Northern Michigan on their résumé, knew they had the knowledge to make the load-bearing wall disappear and create the kitchen of Angela’s dreams. The kitchen has new Fieldstone Cabinetry (a line that Kitchen Choreography represents), new soapstone countertops and sink, and new SubZero/Wolf appliances. But best of all, Angela, who is a fabulous cook, finally has what she always wanted: room for guests to hang out with her in the kitchen. NHC

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resources

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Cabinetry Fieldstone Cabinetry fieldstonecabinetry.com Countertops Cadillac Cut Stone cadillaccutstone.com Appliances Max’s Service maxsservice.com Fireplace Tile Tile Bar tilebar.com

Start Exploring Today at MYNORTH.COM!

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house and home

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BUILDING A HOME THAT LOOKS AS THOUGH IT HAS STOOD FOR A HUNDRED YEARS TAKES MORE THAN LAST-CENTURY INGENUITY. By E L I Z A B E T H E DWA R D S Photos by JUSTIN MACONOCHIE , MACONOCHIE PHOTOGRAPHY

LOST IN TIME ON WALLOON LAKE NHC

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rchitect joseph mosey had his work cut

out for him. His clients had purchased a beautiful lot on Walloon Lake, but due to both the steepness of the grade and zoning setbacks, finding a building site was going to take some serious problem solving. Add to that the fact that the homeowners, understandably, didn’t want to lose any of the ancient hemlock trees that grace the property. After careful consideration, it appeared that the best place for the home site was a long, thin plateau overlooking the lake—a spot that backs into a hill and drops off steeply on the lake side. Fitting a home on it was going to be a puzzle. Fortunately, the style of home that the homeowners requested, a vintage lake lodge, was solidly in Mosey’s wheelhouse. The architect’s résumé is packed with stunning period homes including several on Walloon Lake—homes that meld beautifully with the lake’s rich history of early 20th-century summer cottages, including Windemere, where Ernest Hemingway spent his childhood summers. Welcoming the design challenges that the site presented, Mosey rolled up his sleeves and started drafting. The result is a long, gracious dwelling that embraces the slope and slips through a stand of old-growth hemlocks. Builder Eric Render anchored it on deep helical piles instead of a traditional foundation, meaning his team didn’t disturb so much as a hemlock root during construction. “Great care was taken throughout the build to protect and maintain the health

Coffered ceilings and board-and-batten paneling continue the lodge look on the home’s interior. The homeowner’s collection of vintage sporting and landscape paintings is spot-on with the vibe. Shaker-style inset cabinet doors in the kitchen preserve the home’s honest, timeless feel.

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What Gives This Home Its Vintage Lake Lodge Character: Multiple gables/sections that make the home appear to have been added on to over the years. Working from left to right, a guest suite is connected by a screened-in porch to the primary bedroom. The two large gables house the great room and upstairs bedrooms. The kitchen is tucked into the smaller gable on the home’s right side.

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> Classic forest green cedar shake in the gables and white clapboard siding. > Stone foundation. > Screened-in porch on the lake side.

> Decorative gable brackets. > Tongue-and-groove cladding under the eaves. > Green-clad windows that match the cedar shake.

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NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE FEBRUARY/MARCH 2023

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of these trees,” Render says. Mosey went on to turn a major site limitation— limited room for a main entrance—into a design advantage by tucking the entrance into one end of the back/driveway side of the home. The entrance leads into a screened-in porch that doubles as an entry while offering a shotgun view of the lake before opening into a seating area on the home’s lake side. With its stone fireplace, exposed rafters and beadboard ceiling, the porch immediately announces the home’s quintessential lake lodge vibe. “Entering through the screened porch, you decompress into lake life and lodge living right away,” Mosey says. With vintage lodge details repeated on the interior, the new home embodies the Walloon Lake lifestyle—one that is still rooted as solidly in the woods and water as it was in Hemingway’s time.

Opposite: The classic lodge-style porch doubles as the home’s entry—the main entrance/door is at the far end of the hall. Touches like the painted beadboard ceiling, exposed beams and stonework and woodburning fireplace anchor the vintage lodge look. Old-fashioned five-panel interior doors and the stained-wood railing system ring true to the lastcentury lodge era.

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MYNORTH.COM

1/5/23 10:43 AM

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resources Architect Joseph Mosey Architecture josephmoseyarchitecture.com Builder Render Construction renderconstruction.com Landscaping Vidosh North LLC vidoshnorth.com Excavation & Site Work Flynn’s Excavating 231.347.4771 Stone Masonry ACR Masonry 989.217.1866 Building Materials Preston Feather Building Centers prestonfeather.com Windows & Doors Old Mission Windows oldmissionwindows.com Millwork Thomas & Milliken Millwork tmmill.com Audio, Visual & Home Automation American Home Technology ahtech.com Cabinetry Wolverine Cabinet Co. wolverinecabinet.com

OBrienHarris.com 231.439.0100 PETOSKEY | CHICAGO | GRAND RAPIDS | NAPLES

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house and home

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE FEBRUARY/MARCH 2023

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FOREVER HOME THE JOHNSONS ONCE BELIEVED THAT NORTHERN MICHIGAN WAS JUST FOR VACATIONING. THEN THEY GOT TO KNOW THE COMMUNITY AROUND THEIR SUMMER COTTAGE. B y E L I Z A B E T H E D W A R D S / P h o t o s b y E R I N AT W O O D

eal and stephanie johnson have lived

in some magnificent cities—Chicago, Seattle and Washington DC, among them. Vacations, however, were spent in Northern Michigan, where Neal grew up. Eight years ago, the couple purchased a 1960s ranch on West Grand Traverse Bay at the base of Old Mission Peninsula. As they lived and worked in DC then, it was for summer and holidays only—and possibly, one day, they would retire there. And then the couple met their neighbors who actually lived Up North year-round. That changed everything. “When we were up here, they embraced us—Stephanie and me, and also our daughter and even our dog,” Neal says. “The more time we spent here and

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In the kitchen, mid-century modern bar chairs and pendants blend with traditional cabinetry. A well-thought-out mudroom is essential to living in harmony with Northern Michigan winters. Here, designer Marty Rhein added in plenty of coat hooks, a bench for putting on and taking off shoes and boots and storage for hats and gloves.

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got to know the people, we realized this is an amazing place to live,” Stephanie adds. “And so, we put things in motion to figure out how we could get up here before our daughter started high school.” Part of the plan to make their Northern Michigan move included replacing the small, outdated ranch with a home that would accommodate their needs—from now through their retirement years. As the Johnsons had become accustomed to doing, they took the advice of some trusted neighbors and called Dean Adams of Bay Area Contracting. Beyond Adams’ reputation as a contractor, his firm is affiliated with architect Ken Williams of Design Classics as well as the BAC Design Group, a company that guides clients through design decisions throughout the building process. “Interior design is not my strength, so to have the design piece coupled into the building process was very attractive to me,” Stephanie says.

Rhein and Adams suggested the built-in dining nook in the walkout. The Johnsons say it is perfect for working remotely and a hangout place for their daughter and her friends.

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The back side of the home plays up its connection to the water with a walkout patio, upstairs terrace and glass railings to keep the view of the bay open. With its traditional gables and siding, the Johnsons’ home fits graciously into Old Mission Peninsula’s farmhouse vernacular.

From the first point of contact to the finished home, the collaboration between all the parties involved was full of ease. “Dean and Marty are the type of people who you don’t even need a contract with,” Neal says. “You know that they are always going to do the right thing.” For Marty Rhein, senior designer at BAC Design Group, that “right thing” begins with listening to what his clients want. In this case, Neal wanted a wood-burning fireplace in the great room and Stephanie wanted a modern farmhouse that was more modern than farmhouse. Neal got his wish and more, with wood-burning fireplaces in the living room and on the covered lakeside terrace. Stephanie’s vision was realized in a blend of traditional and modern that begins at the home’s exterior with its gables and white clapboard siding that echo the last-century farmhouses dotting the peninsula. The interior, however, is clean-lined, open and light-filled—the antithesis of dark, cramped, old farmhouses. Touches like a steel railing system for the staircase and modern lighting and furnishings amplify the feel. But as appreciative as they were for Rhein’s incorporation of their ideas, they were especially grateful for the way Rhein and Adams used their expertise to make the house a superbly livable Up

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A wood-burning fireplace keeps the upstairs deck comfortable into the fall. The deck ceiling is clad in metal to withstand the wind and humidity off the lake. The bathroom in the beachside walkout has plenty of storage for beach towels and bags, while the fun, nautical tile keeps the room from feeling simply utilitarian. The blend of modern and farmhouse styles in the home is exemplified by a modern steel staircase railing and the barn door to the office.

North home. “They really knew how to handle a waterfront property and its access to the beach,” Neal says, citing a space they designed into the walkout level to store paddles, kayaks, SUPs and other water equipment. “You just put it in there for the winter, shut the door and get it out in the spring—no carting it back and forth from the garage.” With one year under their belts as full-time residents, the Johnsons couldn’t be happier. Even the winter, which Stephanie admits she was anxious about, didn’t faze them. “I’m not a huge fan of cold weather, to be honest,” she says. “But in this house, you never feel cooped up because it’s so open— you are constantly looking at the water and the trees—it’s almost like you’re outside, except that you’re warm and cozy.” NHC

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resources Contractor Bay Area Contracting bayareacontracting.net Design BAC Design Group bacdesigntc.com Architect Ken Williams kenwilliams-architect.com Floors Bay View Flooring & Design Center bayviewflooring.com Windows Old Mission Windows oldmissionwindows.com

READ NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE ANYWHERE! FREE digital version available here: link.MyNorth.com/nhc0223

Appliances Max’s Service maxsservice.com Countertops & Tile Stratus Marble & Granite stratusmarble.com Plumbing Kohler, ETNA Supply etnasupply.com Fireplaces Source Julien sourcejulien.com Garage Doors Precise Door Co. precisedoorco.com

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE FEBRUARY/MARCH 2023

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RenderConstruction Construction is is a integrity, Render a family family tradition traditionwith withaasolid solidfoundation foundationbuilt builtonon integrity, quality and professionalism; it is these core values that have served us well over quality and professionalism; it is these core values that have served us well over the years. Our relationship with Old Mission Windows is built on these values and the years. Our relationship with Old Mission Windows is built on these values and allows us to exceed our clients expectations, which is critical in our design build allows us to exceed our clients expectations, which is critical in our design build process. process. — —Eric EricRender, Render, Render RenderConstruction Construction

Kolbe Windows Kolbe Kolbe Windows &Windows Doors &Doors leads Doors Doors the leads industry leads the the industry with industry innovative with with innovative innovative products products that products push that the that push boundaries push the the boundaries boundaries and defy and and defy defy Kolbe Windows &&Doors Doors leads industry with innovative products that push the boundaries and defy Kolbe Windows & leads the industry with innovative products that push the boundaries and defy Kolbe Windows &&Doors leads the industry with innovative products that push the boundaries and defy Kolbe Windows leads the industry with innovative products that push the boundaries and defy Kolbe Windows & Doors leads the industry with innovative products that push the boundaries and defy the limits the of the limits function, limits of function, of performance function, performance performance and style. and Contact and style. style. Contact Old Contact Mission Old Old Mission Windows, Mission Windows, Windows, northern northern Michigan’s northern Michigan’s Michigan’s the limits of function, performance and style. Contact Old Mission Windows, northern Michigan’s the limits of function, performance style. Contact Mission Windows, northern Michigan’s the ofoffunction, performance and Contact Old Mission Windows, northern Michigan’s thelimits limits function, performance andstyle. style. Contact OldOld Mission Windows, northern Michigan’s the limits of function, performance and style. Contact Old Mission Windows, northern Michigan’s premier premier window premier window and window door and and supplier door door supplier since supplier 1985, since since to 1985, schedule 1985, schedule to schedule a personal apersonal personal apersonal design personal design consultation design consultation consultation today. today. today. premier window and door supplier since 1985, to schedule aa personal design consultation today. premier window and door supplier since 1985, to schedule design consultation today. premier window and door supplier since 1985, tototo schedule aapersonal design consultation today. premier window and door supplier since 1985, schedule design consultation today. premier window and door supplier since 1985, to schedule a personal design consultation today.

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T he Cu l i nary North local restaurants . craft drinks . seasonal cuisine

“

This Valentine’s Day, swap that box of sweets for a bag of locally made drinking chocolate and these homemade marshmallows.

photo by Dave Weidner

— STACEY BRUGEMAN, CULINARY COLUMNIST

MAKE THE PERFECT PALOMA AT HOME P. 42 A MUST-VISIT: 876 BALDWIN P. 43 GINGER-GLAZED MOLASSES COOKIES P. 44 DECADENT DRINKING CHOCOLATE P. 46

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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1/4/23 10:13 PM

T he Cu l i nary North Grab & Go

HELLO, SUNSHINE by CARLY SIMPSON

When is a vibrant shot of citrus more welcome than in the heart of winter?

American Spoon’s Paloma Mix Clink-clink glasses, friends. American Spoon has perfected the paloma. Athome mixologists simply add 2 ounces of silver tequila to 6 ounces of paloma mix and top with a splash of soda water. The sunny-hued result is a lovely dose of vitamin C in cocktail form. American Spoon’s kitchen crew makes the mix in small batches, just 60 jars at a time, steeping bundles of hibiscus flowers in the balanced blend of grapefruit and lime juice to give it a boost of color, acidity and subtle floral notes. But the star ingredient is smoked salt. “It’s 42

delicately briny and a little earthy, too,” says co-owner Noah Marshall-Rashid. Keep a jar or two on hand for a shortcut to your après–snow day cheers. spoon.com GO

Petoskey Winter Sports Park 1100 Winter Park Ln., Petoskey

In February, you’ll find the MarshallRashid family at Petoskey’s Winter Sports Park, taking advantage of the two ice rinks and sledding area. There are free “ice scooters” for beginners, skate rentals for $7 and a limited supply of sleds for use.

photo by Allison Jarrell

GRAB

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T he Cu l i nary North Served

D I N I N G OUT

VILLAGE VIBES, BIG-CITY GLOW by CARLY SIMPSON

Get in on the bold, globally inspired goodness at 876 Baldwin.

photos by Allison Jarrell

he northwoods outpost of baldwin, approximate population 1000, is already a well-known destination among outdoorspeople. But tonight, we’re here to experience a newer thrill putting it on the map: 876 Baldwin, housed in a reimagined former Masonic Temple. The restaurant’s co-owner Dina Velocci, a first-generation Italian, grew up in New York City. Her family owned the award-winning T&M Deli, rated one of the best in the city by The New York Times in the ’70s. Her husband, Paul Santoro, a secondgeneration Sicilian, was born and raised near Detroit, and visited Baldwin often to fish the Pere Marquette River, a blue-ribbon trout stream that’s also revered nationally for its steelhead and salmon fisheries. 876 Baldwin is a masterful blend of the couple’s love for culture and travel and Baldwin’s outdoorsy roots. Drawing a mix of regulars and road-trippers are seasonal brunch and dinner menus featuring North African, Spanish, Cuban, Korean and, of course, a kiss of Italian. A few dishes on our short list: shakshuka, steamed mussels, ropa vieja and the eight-layer lasagna. A few of those layers? House-crafted Bolognese,

béchamel, marinara and walnut pesto. The kitchen is helmed by Executive Chef and General Manager Glenn Forgie, a classically French-trained chef who brings 35 years of experience. Also special is the atmosphere. There are duos out for date night, camo-clad hunters just back from the woods, a group grabbing cocktails after work. It’s lively, warm, neighborly. A community table anchoring the historic space features a map of the flies-only stretch of the Pere Marquette carved into the white pine top. Above it, a wooden drift boat has been repurposed as a light fixture. The showstopper, however, is an intricate, 18-foot metal and wood art installation by Caleb Goins depicting the river— and its ecosystem of mayflies, fish and eagles. We already vowed to come back after taking one last bite of a crisp, wood-fired pizza laden with roasted squash and earthy gorgonzola. Then Velocci puts a perfect, pillowy slice of tiramisu in front of me. It’s her grandma’s recipe. Yes, I’m still dreaming about it. Knowing Baldwin is exactly an hour-and-17-minute drive from my Traverse City apartment, I can rest easy. 876 Baldwin 876 Michigan Ave., Baldwin 876baldwin.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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T he Cu l i nary North On the Table

DINING IN

GLAZE OF GLORY by CARLY SIMPSON

You haven’t really known love until you’ve tried the molasses cookies at Sugar 2 Salt. Luckily, we’ve got the recipe.

he secret to the best-ever molasses cookies? Texture. “A little crunch to the outside, soft on the inside,” says Stephanie Lee Wiitala, proprietor of Traverse City’s Sugar 2 Salt. “The way to achieve this is to not overmix the dough. I always try to stop mixing before I think I should.” Called S2S for short, this year-round breakfast oasis at The Village at Grand Traverse Commons is run by Wiitala and her partner Jonathan Dayton. The duo is known for their seasonally driven menus, offering elevated takes on morning classics (think slow roasted beef brisket atop potato and garden herb waffles or cornmeal buttermilk pancakes with basil simple syrup). But it’s the not-so-humble molasses cookies that have become a perennial favorite among customers. Finished with a sprinkle of coarse sugar and ribbons of ginger glaze, the generously portioned cookies are so popular, in fact, 44

that some come solely to stock up. For a truly decadent pairing, we suggest serving these with this month’s Last Call recipe on page 46. Whether you want to bake them at home or swing by S2S and let the pros do it for you, well, that’s up to you. Carly Simpson is managing editor of Traverse, Northern Michigan and produces MyNorth’s popular e-newsletter, The Daily Splash. Subscribe online at MyNorth.com/newsletter and follow Carly on Instagram @carlyannesimpson. Dave Weidner is an editorial photographer and videographer based in Northern Michigan. Follow him on Instagram and Facebook @dzwphoto. Sarah Peschel, @22speschel, is a stylist and photographer with an appreciation for all things related to local agriculture, food and drink.

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^ S2S Molasses Cookies Yields 18–24 cookies 4½ cups all-purpose flour 4 teaspoons baking soda 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 Tablespoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon salt 1½ cups butter, room temp 1 cup dark brown sugar 1 cup granulated sugar ½ cup molasses 2 eggs coarse sugar for garnish and ginger glaze to finish (recipe below)

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. 2. Sift flour, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and salt, and set aside. 3. Cream butter and sugars on medium high speed, scraping down the bowl’s sides as needed until the mixture turns a pale yellow color. 4. Mix in molasses and eggs until combined, then gradually add the dry mix until evenly incorporated, being careful not to overmix. Let the dough chill in fridge for 30–60 minutes.

COMIN IN MAYG!

5. Portion cookies onto a baking sheet, top with coarse sugar. 6. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes. Start checking the cookies after 6 to 8 minutes to see how they are looking so they do not end up overbaked. Every oven is different so it is good to check in the middle of cooking. When they start to crackle on the top you’ll know they’re almost done.

photo by Dave Weidner // styling by Sarah Peschel

7. After the cookies are completely cool, drizzle the ginger glaze on the cookies in whatever pattern you like.

Ginger Glaze 1 cup powdered sugar ½ teaspoon ginger 1 teaspoon vanilla 2 Tablespoons milk (possibly a little more or less)

Combine all ingredients starting with the powdered sugar and ginger first. Add the vanilla and milk until a smooth consistency is reached and not too thick or thin— adjust as needed with more powdered sugar or more milk.

NEW FOR WINTER 2023! Look for it in the Fall!

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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1/8/23 8:12 PM

T he Cu l i nary North Last Call

MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN by STACEY BRUGEMAN

Locally made drinking chocolate topped with a chocolate marshmallow is the most decadent thing you can pour your Valentine.

n the last few years, so many northern Michigan chocolatiers have begun bagging “drinking chocolate” that I recently hosted an official cupping of this snow-day treat. While my group of tasters (spanning ages 8 to 80) had certainly enjoyed a cup of hot cocoa—a powdery mixture of cocoa powder, sugar, powdered milk and more— “drinking chocolate,” which dates back to ancient Mayan civilizations and is simply shaved chocolate that is melted in water or milk, was new to some of them. We sipped offerings from Kilwin’s and Crow & Moss in Petoskey, Grocer’s Daughter in Empire and Great Lakes Chocolate in Traverse City. We tasted dark chocolate, milk chocolate, 46

tannic chocolate. “I totally get bananas and walnuts,” one taster wrote on his worksheet. “It reminds me of an Almond Joy,” two others said of mug number six. While we couldn’t agree on a singular favorite that day—they were all such an improvement over packets of hot cocoa—we did agree on one thing: sipping high-quality cacao was even more decadent when topped with one of the chocolate marshmallows I’d made. This Valentine’s Day, swap that box of sweets for a bag of locally made drinking chocolate and these homemade marshmallows. Stacey Brugeman is a 20-year food and beverage journalist. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and on Instagram @staceybrugeman. Dave Weidner is a local photographer for Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. Follow him on Instagram @dzwphoto. Sarah Peschel, @22speschel, is a stylist and photographer with an appreciation for all things related to local agriculture, food and drink.

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^ Chocolate Marshmallows Makes 16 2-inch marshmallows ½ cup plus 2 Tablespoons cocoa powder, divided 2 Tablespoons confectioners sugar Butter, for greasing the pan 1 cup water, divided 3 ¼-ounce packets of gelatin 2 cups granulated sugar ½ teaspoon salt ¾ cup agave ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

1. In a small bowl, sift together 2 Tablespoons of the cocoa powder and the confectioners sugar. Generously grease the bottom and sides of a metal, 8-inch square pan with butter. Toss a spoonful of the cocoa-sugar mixture into the pan, shaking the pan to distribute it evenly the same way you would dust a pan with flour. Reserve the remainder of the cocoa-sugar mixture for later use. 2. Into a large mixing bowl fitted with a whisk attachment, stir together ¾ cup water and packets of gelatin with a fork and allow to rest, or bloom. Meanwhile, make the syrup. Working off the heat, add granulated sugar, remaining ½ cup cocoa powder, salt, agave, remaining ¼ cup of water and vanilla to a medium saucepan, stirring together until well combined. Fit the saucepan with a candy thermometer, and cook over medium high heat, without stirring, just until the temperature reaches 240 degrees, about 7 minutes.

UpNorth design inspiration, building ideas, & decorating tips straight to your inbox monthly.

4. Working quickly, use a rubber spatula to scrape the marshmallow mixture into the pan, smoothing the mixture into each of the corners. Using a sifter or sieve, shake another spoonful of the cocoa-sugar mixture onto the top of the marshmallow pan and allow to cool at room temperature overnight. 5. The next day, flip the pan over onto a clean work surface and cut the marshmallows into 2-inch squares. Place the final spoonful of cocoa-sugar mixture in a large Ziploc bag, add cut marshmallows to the bag and shake to dust the cut sides. Make drinking chocolate according to your favorite chocolatier’s instructions, top with a large chocolate marshmallow, and serve. – S.B.

photos by Dave Weidner // styling by Sarah Peschel

3. Beat the bloomed gelatin at very low speed. Pour the scalding hot syrup into the mixing bowl in a slow steady stream, being careful that it lands between the whisk and the side of the bowl so it neither splatters while the machine is working, nor firms up on the side of the bowl. Once all of the syrup has been poured in, slowly increase the mixing speed to high over the course of 1 minute, notching up the speed in increments. Proceed to whip at your mixer’s highest speed until the mixture is a light Silly Putty brown, has changed from a matte finish to a glossy one, and begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl in strings, at least 10 minutes.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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love of the land

get there

photo by Heather Higham

POINT BETSIE LIGHTHOUSE Northern Michigan winters bring icy phenomena like U.P. cave climbing, blue ice in the Straits, and these glassy beach-grass sculptures at Point Betsie Lighthouse. Photographer Heather Higham (@snaphappymichigan) recommends heading out to Frankfort in January or February after a gale and freezing temps to catch these quirky ice formations. Visitors will want to wear full snow gear while searching for the perfect glimpse. “The ice is too hard for something like Yaktrax,” Higham shares. “I recommend slip-on ice cleats or crampons— something with good teeth. It makes a world of difference. And maybe pack a hot beverage in the car for after!” -A.J.

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CRYSTAL THRILL

“ONE OF THE BEST SKI RESORTS” U.S. NEWS & WORLD REPORT With 59 trails for skiers and boarders of all experience levels. Bring family and friends to spend the day or stay the night. Crystal Spa, ice skating, Michigan Legacy Art Park, kids’ programs, too. C R YS TA L M O U N TA I N .C O M

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