Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine December 2022

Traverse 12.22

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

Cold Comfort!

Find your best winter self in these four cozy getaways PAGE

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PLUS:

DECEMBER 2O22

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The Parade of the Season

A Fur Trader’s Holiday How-to: Rite of Passage Best Cheese Board

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D I S COV E R D E L I G H T F U L

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Building and Renovating Northern Michigan’s Finest Residences

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joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168

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Traverse 12.22 INSIDE

F E AT U R E S

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH, PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.

28 HOW TO BUILD A

42

O NIGHT DIVINE On one magical evening in Manistee, the spirit of Christmas comes alive. Walk along River Street during the annual Victorian Sleighbell Parade, eat roasted chestnuts and watch the tree light up the town.

BY KANDACE CHAPPLE PHOTOS BY ALLISON JARRELL

PERFECT CHEESE BOARD

Cheesemakers Dave and Joy Omar of Saltless Sea Creamery share scrumptious secrets for crafting a Northern Michigan–inspired holiday spread.

C U R AT E D B Y D AV E A N D J O Y O M A R PHOTOS BY SARAH PESCHEL

32 LOST AND FOUND

In December 1763, fur trader Alexander Henry set off from his encampment for a day of hunting, only to become impossibly lost in the frozen Northwoods.

His salvation? The gifts of an unusual friendship.

photo by Allison Jarrell

BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y C H R I S S H A R P

36 COLD COMFORT

From Ludington to Petoskey, you’ll find your best winter self at these four cozy getaways, each complete with snowy excursions and snug igloos or toasty tents.

B Y C A R LY S I M P S O N A N D A L L I S O N J A R R E L L NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Thank you God for the gift of

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109 years

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DEPART M E N TS 9 | EDITOR'S NOTE 11 | UP NORTH

Crystal Community Ski Club is helping youth develop a love for the outdoors; tuck into this family-friendly winter reading list; give the gift of Tom’s Mom’s Cookies.

17 | EVENTS

The North is brimming with holiday cheer, from parades and tree lightings to Santa meet ’n’ greets.

21 | TRAVEL

Explore iconic international food and beverage destinations with local experts.

24 | UP IN MICHIGAN

Author Jerry Dennis reflects on how his inner and outer worlds converged one brilliant Northern Michigan winter.

49 | THE CULINARY NORTH

Fine dining reimagined at Traverse City’s Modern Bird; plus, pick up decadent dinners to-go at Inn and Trail Gourmet in Glen Arbor.

52 | ON THE TABLE

Celebrate the season, and the abundance of the Great Lakes, with this freshwater fish stew.

54 | LAST CALL

A touch of amaro and Lambrusco turn a summery spritz into a cool-weather classic.

56 | LOVE OF THE LAND

130 HALL STREET TRAVERSE CITY 231-252-4132

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photo by Dave Weidner

Follow Us On Social Media facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

Embark on a serene snowshoe hike along Old Mission Peninsula’s Pyatt Lake.

ON THE COVER Boyne Valley Vineyards PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

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11/8/22 2:12 PM

NEVER GET SO BUSY MAKING A LIVING, THAT YOU FORGET TO MAKE A LIFE.

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Season’s Greeting

During this holiday season, we wish you all the best.

Financial Advisors in Traverse City Heather J Boivin, AAMSTM 3285 South Airport Road West 231-933-5263

Financial Advisor in Interlochen Teressa Hupfer 4110 Copper Ridge Dr, Building D Suite 202 231-252-3561

John Tredway 806 S Garfield Ave, Suite B 231-932-1290

Bill Collin 9672 US Highway 31, Ste 400 231-276-1355

Dreaming up the ideal retirement is your job.

Helping you get there is ours.

Yancy Boivin, AAMSTM 3285 South Airport Road West 231-933-5263 John W Elwell, AAMSTM 3588 Veterans Dr 231-947-0079

Jamie Keillor 4110 Copper Ridge Dr, Building D, Suite 202 231-252-3561

Jim Mellinger 12935 SW Bay Shore Dr, Ste 310 231-947-1123

We’re excited to hear from you.

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Andrew Weaver 125 Park Street, Suite 250 231-947-3032 Greg Williams 513 S Union St 231-933-0881

Call or visit any of our financial advisors in the area.

11/8/22 2:15 PM

Traverse NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

A MyNorth Media Publication

Vol. 42 | No. 07

PRESIDENT

Michael Wnek Cara McDonald

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

SENIOR EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR DIGITAL CONTENT & SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST CULINARY COLUMNIST

Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell Rachel Soulliere Stacey Brugeman

PROOFREADERS

Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Andrew VanDrie Kandace Chapple Kim Schneider Heather Durocher

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Tim Hussey Theresa Burau-Baehr

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson Caitlin Conway

DIGITAL PRODUCTION COORDINATOR

Julie Parker Erin VanFossen Mike Alfaro Ann Gatrell Julie James Meg Lau Kirk Small

DIRECTOR OF SALES SALES COORDINATOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING COORDINATOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

HOLIDAY GIFT GIVING

Erin Lutke Ashlyn Korienek Nichole Earle Libby Stallman

OFFICE MANAGER

4 PACK GIFT SETS Our 4-Pack samplers are a unique and perfect gift for holiday gift giving. With collections such as Select & 18 Year, Sweet Italian and Taste of Michigan, you are sure to find something that appeals to everyone on your list.

EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICES

415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391

Stop by one of our locations or visit us online to order and ship with a gift message!

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Visit MyNorth.com/Account to renew your subscription, change your address or review your account.

Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800-678-3416 between 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan, 1 Broadcast Way, Cadillac, MI 49601.

Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $29.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $6.50.

Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2022, Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan.

Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

Let’s get together and cook!

141 E FRONT ST • TRAVERSE CITY • 231-944-1145 PETOSKEY • ANN ARBOR • HOLLAND

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NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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YOU’RE INVITED

Named “Most Beautiful Place in America” by the viewers of Good Morning America, and sitting pretty on National Geographic’s list of “21 Best Beaches in the World.”

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Come experience the magic of Northern Michigan for yourself.

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editor's note

A

s i sit to write this i’m clutching a Grocer’s Daughter mocha, gazing out the window of Higher Grounds Coffee shop at the blown-bare maple tree in front of me. The air outside is shudderinducing—damp, gusty, foreboding.

Days like this, I miss the fireplace from my old house something fierce; not just the cozy vibe, but the cave-dwelling basic pleasure of standing with my back to it and roasting myself until the rivets on my jeans get so hot they leave marks on my skin.

FINDING YOUR FLINT

by CARA MCDONALD

My kids know that on my headstone they should write my defining manifesto: “It’s Not That Warm Out” —Mom. I’m always quick with a fleece, a puffy or a queen-sized Ugg couch blanket.

That said, I love winter completely. I’m a snow freak. I want to see it, shovel it, be in it, ski in it. I rectify those two things with this wisdom gleaned from the Nordics: “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing.” I have two speeds: Birk sandals and boots, T-shirts and turtlenecks.

And right now is the sweet spot of trading in the one for

the other, getting reacquainted with all the coziness I’d packed away not so many months back.

As I was editing this issue, I spent some time thinking about the story of fur trapper Alexander Henry, which we excerpt from his book. He roamed this area in the late 1700s; I’ll freely admit most of my images of this time period are shaped by watching hours of “Outlander.” A lot of animal skins, a lot of sleeping on the ground, a lot of bare arms and legs in cold weather that give me vicarious chills and not in the fun way—these people need to carry a jacket.

They need some waterproof BOOTS. Alexander gets lost in the Northwoods around Christmas—spoiler alert—without his Joan of Arctic Sorels. He wanders around totally content for a bit, because after all, he has his gunflint and so can hunt and make a fire. Things gradually get worse, of course, but take that in for a moment: the guy is good to go, despite being lost in the wilds of Northern Michigan, on the darkest days of December. It makes you feel a little bit soft just reading it.

But with hope, a bit of pluck and his trusty flintlock, he’s fine(ish). We all have our winter equivalent of Alexander’s flint. Maybe it's your favorite pair of wool mittens, a fir-scented candle or your favorite coffee shop and a book.

My regular mocha is a flint; so too is my raspberry pink insulated ski jacket.

My friend Tash takes on winter with her post-ski thermos of coffee and Amaretto. My son Alek loves his go-to hot ham and cheese croissant for slopeside lunch; my son Kieran is obsessed with the faux sheepskin throw he drags into bed each night. These reliable cold-weather comforts keep the spirits up when air is bitter and the snow blows sideways.

Sure, maybe we’re a little softer than our 18th-century predecessors—thank you heated floors, heated toilet seats, Instacart. We have at our fingertips a thousand little comforts to light a cold, dark day (or night) and make us feel grounded and safe. But I’d argue we can either let those indulgences make us soft or make us strong—with that comfort, perhaps, comes a little courage to leave the confines of our encampment, step into cold air crisp with possibility, and explore.

Cara McDonald Executive Editor cara@mynorth.com

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Up North.

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

SNOWSPORTS FOR ALL

by CARLY SIMPSON

An area nonprofit works to help youth who would otherwise not have access to skiing get out into the woods and onto the slopes.

inset photo courtesy of Crystal Community Ski Club

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his winter, crystal community ski club (CCSC) plans to reach 1,000 kids through its growing alpine and Nordic ski programs.

Founded in 2018, the Thompsonville-based nonprofit welcomes all income and skill levels, from first-timers to endurance athletes who want to finesse their technique and compete. Through skiing, the team of staff and volunteers hope to accomplish a larger mission: help kids and teens develop a lifelong love for the outdoors.

“It’s so important for kids to cultivate a relationship with the natural world,” says Beth Major, the Nordic assistant program director.

“Kids today are very connected to the digital world, but many have become disconnected from the outdoors, especially in winter.”

CCSC recognizes there can be a financial barrier to skiing and, in addition to offering scholarships, has made community outreach a top priority. Last winter, CCSC’s Nordic Rocks Program sent coaches to 3rd- through 5th-grade classes in nine area schools, providing equipment and

instruction at the schools’ outdoor fields or playgrounds.

More than 600 students received four sessions of on-snow fun and cross-country skill-building. For many, it was their first time on skis.

“We also work with underserved local youths and kids downstate, particularly in Metro Detroit and Flint, who come NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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— Celebrating 66 Years — 1956 - 2022

up to Crystal Mountain and learn how to downhill ski,” says Operating Manager Hunter Steinkamp. “Not only do they get out and try an activity they never thought they’d get a chance to, but they also realize they can continue learning through Crystal Community Ski Club and other programs.”

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Carly Simpson: Tell us more about CCSC’s model.

Hunter Steinkamp: There are a lot of alpine-only ski clubs, a lot of Nordic ski clubs … the model we’ve taken is inclusive of alpine, Nordic, junior instructor, junior patroller, competitive and non-competitive programs— there’s really no one else in the region operating quite like we are.

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CS: What reactions do you get from kids and teens who are trying on skis for the first time?

Beth Major: It’s absolutely magical to see their faces, especially when it comes time to strap on the skis. And suddenly they’re on the trails and that can feel awkward at first—some kids have some fear; it is a strange thing to do for the first time. After 20 minutes though, they start to adjust and they go crazy because it’s so liberating.

Cross-country skiing can be transformative for kids.

CS: What challenges is the organization facing?

BM: The overall challenge for CCSC is to continue our work to remove all barriers for youth so they can discover the joy of sliding on snow, be it alpine or cross-country skiing. On the Nordic side, with the sheer number of kids we serve, this means building sustainable funding to have enough skis, boots and poles for kids ages 8-18, sufficient coaching staff and infrastructure to support both the in-school program and the Crystal Mountain instructional program. A current goal is to offer low-cost bus transportation from schools to Crystal Mountain for our after-school Nordic middle and high school teams so more students can participate. Fun fact: Our women’s high school team placed fourth in the 2022 State Nordic Championship— their first time competing!

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Up North News ^ NEW UP NORTH Cool finds, community updates and sweet new businesses.

BOB’S BUTCHER SHOP – SATELLITE STORE 109 OTTAWA ST., GRAYLING

A Roscommon staple, Bob’s Butcher Shop now has a second location in Grayling, sharing a space with White Pine & Petals.

You’ll also find an upstairs candy shop and food boards from Get on Board N’ Graze. facebook.com/ bobsbutchershoproscommon FOLKLOR WINE & CIDER 16820 FERRY RD., CHARLEVOIX

Construction of the winery is underway at the 52-acre vineyard and orchard. Owners Izabela Babinska and Derrick Vogel are planning to grow cold-hardy varietals such as blaufränkisch and grüner veltliner. For updates, follow Folklor on Instagram. folklorwinecider.com HIDDEN NOOK BOOKSELLERS 207 E. MICHIGAN AVE., GRAYLING

Browse fiction and nonfiction, a well-stocked game section and gifts. Owners Rae and Liam Gosling opened the Nook this fall.

PLAYA BOWLS 222 E. STATE ST., STE. 101, TRAVERSE CITY

Serving açaí, pitaya and green bowls along with juices and smoothies in downtown Traverse City. playabowls.com

Know of a business that just opened or have a fun community update? Let us know at editorial@traversemagazine.com.

WINTER READING LIST 4 children’s books to snug up with on the couch.

A MICHIGAN NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS WRITTEN BY NORMA LEWIS / ILLUSTRATED BY SARAH KAAKE

In this whimsical twist on a holiday classic, Yooper the bear sets an alarm on Christmas Eve to wake his family up from their winter hibernation—just in time to meet Santa. Papa isn’t too pleased about being roused from his sleep, but in the end even he is a believer.

GOODNIGHT LEELANAU WRITTEN BY RYAN & MAGGIE HUDSPETH / ILLUSTRATED BY KAARIN HERENDEEN

Leland the puppy takes readers on an M-22 adventure with stops in Frankfort, Empire, Glen Arbor, Leland, Northport, Suttons Bay and Traverse City. The book captures the magic of family vacations in Northern Michigan and the lifelong memories that are made here.

LITTLE DROP WRITTEN BY MICHAEL LUCIDO, PHD / ILLUSTRATED BY PATRICIA CLARK, MA

Northern Michigan–based clinical psychologist Michael Lucido was inspired by his daughter to share the story of Little Drop and her journey through the water cycle. Guided by Momma Moon, Little Drop learns how to deal with her fears about life’s changes. Momma Moon offers reflective questions for parents to help their own Little Drops navigate anxiety.

MUSHROOM HOUSE MAN: THE STORY OF EARL YOUNG AND HIS COTTAGES OF STONE WRITTEN BY ALICE B. MCGINTY / ILLUSTRATED BY SHARON SMITHEM

Award-winning author Alice McGinty is passionate about picture book biographies, working “to make the lives and accomplishments of many diverse people accessible to [children].” McGinty’s latest book shares the story of Earl Young and his fairytale cottages, which are known and admired worldwide. –C.S. Bonus Content on MyNorth.com more books to crack open: link.mynorth.com/kidsread

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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photo by Dave Weidner

Up North Wish You Were Here

One of our favorite gifts to receive?

Tom’s Mom’s Cookies. The beloved bakery makes some 3,500 dozen cookies each holiday season, mailing them in keepsake tins.

Founded in 1985, Tom’s Mom’s still uses the original recipe but now offers 20-plus varieties— oatmeal butterscotch, cinnamon sugar, caramel pretzel and the original chocolate chunk.

Visit the Harbor Springs shop or order online.

267 S. Spring St., Harbor Springs; tomsmomscookies.com -C.S.

Bonus Content on MyNorth.com Discover the magic of the holidays at Tom’s Mom’s: link.mynorth.com/tomscookies

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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CARE FOR YOUR SMILE and let it brighten your day

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TIX Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

December edited b y LIBBY STALLMAN

FRI

Downtown Petoskey celebrates the season during the Holiday Open House. Meet your friends and neighbors for a night of good cheer, hospitality and shopping. petoskeydowntown.com

FRI

Take part in a Victorian holiday gathering during the inaugural “1885 Come Alive” event at Manistee’s Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts. Black tie with a Victorian theme, Victorian-style appetizers and sweets buffet, live entertainment, holiday portraits. lakesideclubmanistee.org

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photo by Dave Weidner

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Charlevoix merchants offer entertainment, samples, snacks, refreshments, special sales, raffles and more during the annual Holiday Merchant Open House. visitcharlevoix.com From ornament making to a soup cook-off and visits with Santa after the Parade of Lights, there is plenty to do during Light Up the Night in Bellaire. Don’t forget the community tree lighting, caroling and a live nativity; this is truly a family-friendly event. bellairechamber.org

WED

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Join Olds Floral & Design in Kingsley for an evergreen gnome make-and-take class: These adorable characters are perfect for your front porch or yard. MyNorthTickets.com

THU

Interlochen’s performances of the holiday classic “The Nutcracker” run Dec. 8–11. interlochen.org

SAT

Santa, along with Buddy the Elf, will be at Friske Farm Market in Ellsworth during Friske’s Country Christmas. friske.com

SAT

Shanty Creek’s Tannenbaum Blitzen includes a torchlight parade down the face of Schuss Mountain, Christmas carols around the tree, dining selections and a visit from Santa. Be sure to stay for fireworks over the mountain. shantycreek.com

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SUN

Take part in Traverse City Track Club’s Jingle Bell 5K Run/Walk. The route weaves through the lighted downtown and surrounding decorated neighborhoods. runsignup.com/ jinglebellrun

FRI

Experience the magic of snowshoeing, hiking or crosscountry skiing on candle-lit trails at Mt. McSauba in Charlevoix.

Set your own pace on this selfguided journey and follow the candlelight to a roaring fire and hot chocolate. Every Friday thru Feb. 24. charlevoixmi.gov

SAT

Ring in 2023 with a New Year’s Eve Ball Drop in Marquette, Traverse City or Ludington.

Or enjoy a Torchlight Parade at Nub’s Nob in Harbor Springs.

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FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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SPREAD CHRISTMAS CHEER 18 festive events across the North.

Dec. 1–4

> Manistee Victorian Sleighbell

Parade & Old Christmas Weekend Dec. 1–27

> Deck the Halls: A Mason County

Decorating Contest Dec. 1–31

> Light Up Local Tree Displays

in Cheboygan

Dec. 3

> Boyne City 43rd Annual Holiday

Hobby Craft Show

> Polar Express in Elk Rapids > Frankfort Community Tree Lighting > Manton Holiday Craft Show > Merchants Holiday Open House

in Harbor Springs

> Cheboygan Parade of Lights &

Community Christmas Party

Dec. 3–4

> A West Shore Community College

Holiday Rock Spectacular Reunion at Ramsdell Theatre in Manistee Dec. 4

> Breakfast and Pictures with Santa

at Gaylord Eagles Hall Dec. 8

> Traverse City Ladies’ Night

Dec. 8-11

photo by Andrew Allen, Manistee County Visitors Bureau

> German Holiday Market in Cadillac

Dec. 10

> The Haunting of Ebenezer at

Willowbrook Mill in Northport

Dec. 10–11

> Christmas at Ludington’s Historic

White Pine Village

Dec. 11 > Santa’s Workshop at Castle Farms in Charlevoix Dec. 16

TIX Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

> Traverse City Men’s Night

Dec. 17

> Cheboygan Family Friendly Cocoa Crawl

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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CULINARY ADVENTURES

by KIM SCHNEIDER

photo by Lisa Baird

Eat and drink your way around the world with Northern Michigan foodie experts as your guides.

W

hat’s on your travel bucket list—a Bordeaux wine tour, Iceland’s waterfalls, distillery hopping in Scotland? Several Northern Michigan-based food and beverage experts are leading small groups on unforgettable international vacations. And there are tasty reminders in the cocktails and appetizers your trip leaders put on their menus back home. Here, a few ways savvy locals can show you the world.

BRITISH ISLES WITH BRITISH PUB OWNERS

Scottish native Graeme Leask and partner Michelle Schulte own Leelanau County’s Little Traverse Inn, serving dishes inspired by the Old Country; they also lead international tours with small groups. Scottish island hopping (with coastal bike tours, puffin spotting and distillery stops), visits to Irish pubs and castles, even Italy and beyond. “We love to get people back to the places we love to go, and our type of travel’s a wee bit different,” says Leask, a natural storyteller. “We allow guests to see through the eyes of locals and dive headlong into the culture.” radiant-moments.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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WINE TOURS WITH A WINEMAKER

Winemaker Bryan Ulbrich and the staff of Left Foot Charley in Traverse City welcome wine club members (and others) to learn about wine while sharing new adventures. In 2022, that meant comparative tastings of Michigan and Bordeaux wines while passing castles and vineyards on a small ship cruise in France. There were private dinners and outings and a recent trip reunion that featured wines from Portugal, Left Foot Charley’s next destination (in May 2024). “By the end of it, you’re all friends,” says Kristy McClellan, the winery’s sales director. cruisewithkim.com FOODIE DESTINATIONS WITH CHEF MARTHA

Martha Ryan has been taking students and adults around the world for more than 20 years, to about as many countries. That her tours generally focus on culinary experiences is no accident for the owner of Martha’s Leelanau Table in Suttons Bay. Trip highlights include cooking classes, wine tastings and gourmet meals—she’s even hiked to a monastery where Carthusian monks have used mountain flowers and herbs to create Chartreuse (now a cocktail star) since the early 1700s. This year’s spring tour to Amsterdam, Luxembourg and Brussels highlights chocolate, tulips and beer; fall’s Iceland tour will showcase waterfalls and northern lights. marthasleelanautable.com FRANCE WITH A CHOCOLATIER—AND MORE

photos by Lisa Baird

Madeleine Vedel’s rich background—as a 20-year resident of France, cheesemaker and adventure guide—pays off for tour-goers who might go truffle hunting with one of her long-time friends and take a cooking class from another.

The Northern Michigan chocolatier, who spends a few months back in France each year, leads trips focused on truffles, foie gras, Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines, hiking, art and markets. The intimate groups share a house and participate in group-prepared meals. cuisineprovencale.com Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she’s the author of “100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die.” NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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up in michigan

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I

n december 1991 artist Glenn Wolff and I were in the final sprint to finish our first book together, “It’s Raining Frogs and Fishes: Four Seasons of Natural Phenomena and Oddities of the Sky.” For two years we had been faxing rough drafts and sketches back and forth and talking on the phone every day. Now, with a January deadline approaching, we were working 12 or more hours a day, seven days a week.

My life became even busier when Gail and I sold our house on 11th Street and bought a 140-year-old farmhouse on Old Mission Peninsula. We had to vacate our house in the city three weeks before we could move into the farmhouse, so we would be essentially homeless during December. My parents invited us to stay with them, in the house on Long Lake where I had grown up. For my sons Aaron and Nick, who were 12 and 4, it was a grand adventure—a month

by JERRY DENNIS | art by GLENN WOLFF of slumber parties at Grandma’s. It turned A writer reflects on how out to be a grand adhis inner and outer worlds venture for all of us.

By then Glenn converged one brilliant and I had worked Northern Michigan winter. ourselves into some kind of heightened awareness or consciousness. I’ve experienced similar states of mind with all my books, but this was the most intense of them. Strange convergences and coincidences kept popping up. While we worked on the chapter about sunsets and sunrises, for instance, the actual sunsets were more brilliant than any we could remember—the result of dust clouds pumped into the stratosphere by Mount Pinatubo’s eruption that June in the Philippines. I’d never heard of a “fogbow” until researching optical phenomena—then a few days later drove into a wall of fog with the sun at my back and passed beneath a vivid black-and-white bow arching from one side of the road to the other.

The most serendipitous moment occurred near the end of November when Glenn, after working all day on the illustration for the Northern Lights chapter, stepped outside his studio at midnight and saw the most spectacular aurora of his life. Immediately he called me.

“Go outside, right now,” he said. “You won’t believe your eyes.”

Gail and I stepped out, looked up, and hurried back inside to wake the kids. I wrapped Nick in a blanket and carried him; Aaron followed in his pajamas.

We stood in the yard, stunned. Half the sky was filled with swaying pink curtains, as if buckets of watercolor had been poured across it. Colored lights arced from the horizon to directly overhead—even slightly south of overhead. I’ve seen many auroras, but none so colorful or so high. As we

WOKE TO A WHITE WORLD

watched, the curtains bent at the apex of the sky until they radiated like rays from the iris of an eye, then turned from pink to red, with traces of greens and blues. We watched for nearly an hour and the colors didn’t fade.

It was a fitting launch to a memorable winter. My memory is quite good but far from perfect, which is why I’ve kept a journal since age 17, the year I decided to become a writer. Not a diary—a day-by-day accounting of my life would only be drudgery to me—but a collection of miscellaneous observations, random thoughts, fragments of rough drafts, quotes from my reading, odd midnight jottings.

After 50 years, I’ve filled dozens of spiral-bound notebooks and thousands of pages. I think of them as seed bins or idea banks and plunder them regularly. Much of my published work has originated there.

The journal of 1991-92 includes thoughts on the book Glenn Wolff and I were finishing as well as observations of the changing season—naturally enough, since the book was about natural phenomena of the sky and was organized by the seasons. When I needed a break during those long days and nights of work, nothing restored me more reliably than walking in the woods or along the lake. Then as now, it seemed strange and wonderful that I could be so deeply absorbed in the interior world of my book while at the same time remaining extraordinarily alert to the outside world. It made for a magical time.

Below are some entries from the journal of that winter: Nov 30: Our last night on 11th Street. Big wet snowflakes muting this already quiet night. We’re crazy to be moving in this season, at this stage of the book. But it’s time to move to the country and stop being a city-bound nature writer.

Dec 1: Moved in with Mom and Dad yesterday. The kids set up a tent in the family room, and I converted a bedroom into a combination office and sleeping quarters.

The boys and I walked to Bullhead Lake this afternoon.

The day sunny and very cold, and the lake frozen over with clear ice a quarter-inch thick. Thousands of snow fleas were hopping, three inches at a leap, away from shore and onto the ice. Each, when it landed, adjusted for direction and leaped another three inches. An exodus of microscopic lemmings.

Nick thinks they’re some new species of creature, never before seen by humans.

Dec 2: At daybreak Long Lake was skimmed with ice but by mid-morning the wind broke it up. We’re on the lee shore here, and the gusts are behaving exactly as I remember from childhood: falling onto the calm water near shore, exploding into blossom-shapes, then rushing toward the island like herds of stampeding horses.

Hard to get back into the book after three days off. Worn out the first day or two; simply lazy now. I have to push through but would rather nap, read novels, daydream.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Dec 3: The lake froze to the island last night. We assumed the ice was here to stay, but a warm wind came and broke it up again. Today is sunny, 40 degrees. Most of the snow gone from the yard.

Dec 5: Today we watched three otters swimming in front of the house. They dove repeatedly, hunting for fish no doubt, then swam to shore, climbed the bank, and nosed around for a while. Very sociable, always close, frequently touching. They took turns rubbing their backs on a patch of snow. We think they must have followed the creek up from Lake Dubonnet.

Dec 8: The sunset tonight vividly colored even without clouds to reflect and refract. After the sun dropped below the horizon, the sky nearly 180 degrees around stayed lit with a peculiar violet or purple-red light. It was the oddest color I’ve ever seen in a sunset.

I love this stage of a book. So absorbed now that I’m experiencing a sort of psychological equivalent to continental drift: subterranean plates are shifting and something that lies beneath wants to come to the surface. Glenn says he’s there, too—in a continuous state of alertness, with moments of intense excitement and lucidity. Lately I’ve been dreaming about the book every night—composing and rewriting even as I sleep.

Dec 11: Forecast is for freezing rain tonight and snow tomorrow, then cold and snow forever. Wind from the southeast this morning veered to the west this afternoon.

We’re in for a storm.

they plummeted, rose with the next stroke, then plummeted again. If they had missed a stroke they would have plunged to the ground like hatchets.

Jan 3, 1992: Asked Hugh for a month extension on our deadline. Got it, no problem.

The weather still crazy. Rained most of yesterday and all last night. Turned to big wet snowflakes for a while this morning, then back to rain. Temperature between 32 and 38 for two weeks now. Where’s winter?

Jan 11: Working white-hot now. Glenn, too. We’re confident we’ll be finished by the end of the month. I found time to squeeze in two short articles for Canoe and Field & Stream—the money will save our butts next month.

Still not real winter. Temperature hasn’t dropped below 30 in two weeks, and only a dusting of snow is on the ground.

Very strange. I miss the snow, the clarity of cold. Eager to ski in the fields and woods behind us and ice-fish on the bay. There’s still time. The entire winter can be packed into a few weeks.

Jan 17: Winter at last. Yesterday’s wind-chill was 20 below.

Now strong wind, horizontal snow, cold, cold, cold. The windows in my office are painted with ostrich feathers of frost.

Forecast is for two feet of snow in the next two days. Already a three-foot drift has closed the end of the driveway, locking us

When I needed a break during those long days and nights of work, nothing restored me more reliably than walking in the woods or along the lake.

Dec 12: Woke to a white world.

Wind howling, snowdrifts waist high, schools all closed. The lake remains open—the water black and strange-looking against the snow-draped trees hanging over it.

Dec 14: Heavy snowfall all day. Can’t see the far shore of the lake, nor the island at times. After two weeks of nearly around-the-clock work on the book I took a break and watched a basketball game on television. Slept for a few hours and woke up ready to work.

in. Hooray! We have plenty of groceries and firewood and books. What more do we need? Aaron said he can’t believe his bad luck: a blizzard on the weekend. He remembers the January a few years ago when it stormed every weekend of the month. Glenn says his house was so cold last night that he felt like he was being prepped for an organ transplant.

Jan 29: Midnight. Finished. I’m curiously drained of energy, emotions, ideas. The book has taken everything I have.

Tomorrow I’ll print it. Then mail it. Then sleep for three or four days. Hopefully there will be life afterward.

Dec 16: Fighting the flu or something. Could sleep and sleep and sleep. The lake froze last night, during a heavy snow, so today it’s covered with slush and criss-crossed with cracks. Stepped outside to catch snow crystals on my jacket sleeve, then went back to bed. Too weak to care about the deadline. But mixed with the lethargy come moments of elation, even a few bursts of creativity.

Jerry Dennis has earned his living writing about nature, the Great Lakes and life in Northern Michigan since 1986. His most recent book is "Up North in Michigan: A Portrait of Place in Four Seasons."

Dec 20: Moved into the Old Mission house yesterday. The excitement of a new place—we could be in a foreign country.

Took a break from unpacking to walk with the boys across the field to the apple orchard. Watched a pair of pileated woodpeckers fly overhead. They seemed too heavy for flight, as if their bones were made of iron. Between each wing stroke

Glenn Wolff’s career has included illustrating for publications such as The New York Times, and most recently working on fine art, book illustration, music and collaborations with environmental organizations. His artwork is represented by Tamarack Gallery in Omena, and he's currently on the full-time art faculty at Northwestern Michigan College. glennwolff.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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How to Build a Perfect Cheese Board

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Cheesemakers share their scrumptious secrets.

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A

s cheesemakers, it’s safe to say Dave and Joy Omar have made a lot of cheese boards.

They’re a weekday dinner staple in fact for the Traverse City-based owners of Saltless Sea Creamery. With a toddler and baby at home, “minimal prep” and “no-dish cleanup” are delicious phrases.

“It’s truly one of our favorite meals to eat,” Joy says. But the cheeseboard everyone looks forward to all year ‘round is the one served on Christmas Eve; a tradition started years ago

by Joy’s family.

We asked the Omars to create a Northern Michigan–inspired cheese board so you, too, can expertly craft a holiday-worthy spread. Here’s the tasty intel: 28

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Curated by Dave and Joy Omar Photos by Sarah Peschel

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The List (see opening spread) 1. Bagel Chips

(Bubbie’s Bagels) A crispy, lacy alternative to regular crackers.

2. Smoked Whitefish Pâté (Carlson’s Fishery) Lake Michigan in dip form.

3. Hot ’n’ Spicy Cheese Curds Dave, Milo and Joy (big brother Sam was at preschool)

(Boss Mouse Cheese) Because cheese doesn’t have to be fancy to be on a cheese board, and what’s more Midwestern than cheese curds?

4. Honeycomb

2022 Traverse Magazine Tastemaker of the Year This year we celebrated Dave Omar as one of six innovators who are changing the food and beverage conversation in Northern Michigan. Read the full story:

link.mynorth.com/tastemakers2022

What are some tips of the trade to help us impress our guests?

“We love that the grazing board trend encourages people to let go of preconceived notions of formality about what ‘should’ be on a cheese board. Be creative and don’t be afraid to include items that are non-traditional or low-brow.

That said, a few rules of thumb can help you make a board that will really blow people away...”

Aim for a variety of cheeses. Joy likes to say, something old (aged, harder cheeses), something new (young, softer cheeses), something special (an outside-the-box or extraflavorful pick), something ewe (goat or sheep’s milk cheese).

A range of textures is key, but if there’s one to keep your eye on, it’s crunch. Nuts, crackers, crudités, pickles, etc. make your board fun to look at and interesting to eat.

Spread the love! Mustards, preserves and honey add so much flavor and character to a cheeseboard.

Don’t overlook temperature. Cheese tastes its best at room temperature, and even the most delicate cheeses can be left out safely for up to four hours. Many people have an instinct to keep their cheeses in the fridge until right before serving, but your guests’ experience will be better if you let the cheese come up to temp first.

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(Hilbert’s Honey Co.) Visually stunning and fun to eat.

5. Half-Sour Pickles

(Traverse City Pickle Company) The perfect pickle: sour, salty and snappy.

6. Oxheart Carrots

(Loma Farm) A carrot of epic proportions that I love to slice into thin rounds and use as a cracker alternative.

7. Leelanau Apricot Preserves

(American Spoon) Our absolute favorite preserve for a cheese board; apricot plays well with so many meats and cheeses.

8. Idyll Pastures

(Idyll Farms) Creamy, tangy and mild enough to convert the goat cheese hesitant.

9. Parmichigano

(Saltless Sea Creamery) Best served in chunks to appreciate its aged texture.

10. Cherry Nut Mix

(Cherry Republic) The perfect combo from Northern Michigan’s first flavor ambassadors; we also love that a portion of sales goes to local nonprofits.

11. Rustic Baguette

(Common Good Bakery) A can’t-go-wrong classic that we include on every board we make.

12. Yellow Carrots

(Loma Farm) A lovely bit of sunshine on a winter cheese board.

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13. Maple Bacon Jerky

(Maxbauer Specialty Meat Market) Aka “bacon candy.”

14. Hazelnut Sea Salt Bark

(Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate) Chocolate and cheese should always be friends. Serve snapped into crackersize pieces.

15. Brandied Cherries

(American Spoon) A spectacular way to enjoy whole local cherries out-of-season, especially at home on a holiday board.

16. Riveter

(Saltless Sea Creamery) We love to serve this shaved instead of in slices.

17-18. Antique Macintosh & Hudson Gold Gem Apples

(VerSnyder Orchards) Our go-to family orchard for interesting apple varieties. The antique Macs are from trees planted in the late 1800s, and the gold gems are reminiscent of pears.

19. Honey Badger Snack Sticks

(Maxbauer Specialty Meat Market) Sliced thinly on the diagonal, snack sticks are an excellent charcuterie option that’s often overlooked.

20. Apple & Onion Jam

(American Spoon) A dream of a savory spread (pro tip: use cheese board leftovers to make the best grilled cheese sandwich ever).

21. Whole Seed Mustard

(American Spoon) Dubbed “the caviar of mustards” for a reason!

22. Romanesco

(Loma Farm) You can’t ask for a more beautiful crudité option.

23. Raclette

(Leelanau Cheese) Northern Michigan’s inaugural cheese.

5 Perfect Bites

1. Oxheart carrot + smoked whitefish pâté + half-sour pickle 2. Antique Macintosh apple + Parmichigano cheese + honeycomb + pecan 3. Honey Badger Snack Stick + Riveter cheese + apple & onion jam 4. Rustic baguette + raclette cheese + brandied cherries 5. Hazelnut sea-salt chocolate bark + Idyll Pastures cheese + apricot preserves

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Lost and Found On December 20, 1763, fur trader Alexander Henry set off from his encampment for a day of hunting only to become impossibly lost in the frozen Northwoods. His salvation? The gifts of an unusual friendship.

by ELIZABETH EDWARDS

/ illustrations by CHRIS SHARP

H ollywood couldn ’ t whip up a more adventurous story than the true adventures of Alexander Henry. As the 18thcentury British-Canadian fur trader said of himself, he was “Blessed with as many lives as a cat.”

In 1760, at age 21, Henry left his home in the New Jersey colony for Fort Michilimackinac on the Straits of Mackinac, then the hub of the North American fur trade. On the way, he survived several near drownings, the wrath of Ojibway braves who hated the British and much more.

Soon after moving to Michilimackinac he met Wawatam—an Ojibway chief who was told during a vision quest that he should adopt an Englishman as his brother. “From the moment he had first befriended me he had recognized me as the person the Great Spirit had been pleased to point out to him for a brother,” Henry wrote many years later.

Having Wawatam on his side would prove fortuitous, to say the least.

Henry was at Fort Michilimackinac when the Ojibway and other tribes stormed the fort on June 2, 1763, routing the English, tomahawks and knives flying. After hiding in an attic, Henry was taken captive by the Ojibway—who killed all their other prisoners. At the last moment, when it looked like his time, too, had come, Wawatam rescued him.

In 1809, living in Montreal, Alexander Henry, Esq. penned his memoir, “Travels and Adventures in Canada and the Indian Territories Between the years 1760 and 1776. In Two Parts.” Imagine him, sitting in front of his crackling fire, his old eyes twinkling, reliving peril after exciting peril of his youth in perfect detail.

Nail-biting adventure aside, Henry’s book offers an exceptionally rare and first-person look at Northern Michigan during the fur-trading era. The following excerpt takes place in the early winter of 1763 when Henry was encamped with Wawatam and his family in what is now the Manistee/Cadillac area. Although Henry apparently didn’t realize it, the harrowing episode ends in the hours before Christmas Eve, 1763. Nevertheless, given the fondness between the Native and the Englishman—two men who should have been enemies—the story’s message of brotherhood is a gracious lesson, especially sweet at the holidays.

O

n the twentieth of December, we took an account of the product of our hunt, and found that we had a hundred beaver skins, as many raccoons, and a large quantity of dried venison; all of which was secured from the wolves, by being placed upon a scaffold. A hunting-excursion, into the interior of the lake country, was resolved on.

On the first day of our march, we advanced about twenty miles, and then encamped. While the women were busy in erecting and preparing the lodges, I took my gun, and strolled away, telling Wawatam that I intended to look for some fresh meat for supper.

He answered that he would do the same; and, on this we both left the encampment, in different directions.

The sun being visible, I entertained no fear of losing my way; but, in following several tracks of animals, in momentary expectation of falling in with the game, I proceeded to a considerable distance, and it was not till near sun-set that I thought of returning. The sky, too, had become overcast, and I was therefore left without the sun for my guide. In this situation, I walked as fast as I could, always supposing myself to be approaching our encampment, till at length it became so dark that I ran against the trees.

I became convinced that I was lost;

and I was alarmed by the reflection, that I was in a country entirely strange to me, and in danger from strange Indians. With the flint of my gun, I made a fire, and then laid me down to sleep. In the night it rained hard. I awoke, cold and wet; and as soon as light appeared, I recommenced my journey, sometimes walking and sometimes running, unknowing where to go, bewildered, and like a madman.

Toward evening, I reached the border of a large lake, of which I could scarcely discern the opposite shore. I had never heard of a lake in this part of the country, and there felt myself removed further than ever from the object of my pursuit. To tread back my NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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have suffered so long, without calling to mind the lessons which I had received from my Indian friend [Wawatam], for the very purpose of being useful to me, in difficulties of this kind. These were, that generally speaking the tops of pine-trees lean toward the rising of the sun; that moss grows toward the roots of trees, on the side which faces the north; and that limbs of trees are most numerous and larg-

I awoke, cold and wet; and as soon as light appeared, I recommenced my journey, sometimes walking and sometimes running, unknowing where to go, bewildered, and like a madman.

steps appeared to be the most likely means of delivering myself; and I accordingly determined to turn my face directly to the lake and keep this direction as nearly as I could.

A heavy snow began to descend, and night soon afterward came on. On this, I stopped and made a fire; and stripping a tree of its sheet of bark, lay down under it, to shelter from the snow. All night, at small distances, the wolves howled around; and to me, seemed to be acquainted with my 34

misfortune.

Amid thought the most distracted, I was able, at length, to fall asleep; but it was not long before I awoke, refreshed, and wondering at the terror to which I had yielded myself. That I could really have wanted the means of recovering my way, appeared to me almost incredible; and the recollection of it like a dream, or as a circumstance which must have proceeded from the loss of my senses. Had this not happened, I could never, as I now thought,

est, on that which faces the south.

Determined to direct my feet by these marks, and persuaded that should thus, sooner or later reach Lake Michigan, which I reckoned to be distant about sixty miles, I began my march at break of day. I had not taken, nor wished to take, any nourishment, since I left the encampment; I and with my gun and ammunition, was therefore under no anxiety in regard to food. The snow lay about half a foot in depth.

My eyes were now employed up the trees. When their tops leaned different ways, I looked to the moss, or to the branches; and by connecting one with another, I found the means of traveling with some degree of confidence.

At four o’clock in the afternoon, the sun, to my inexpressible joy, broke from the clouds, and I now had no further need to examine the trees.

In going down the side of a lofty hill, I saw a herd of red deer approaching. Desirous of killing one of them for food, I hid myself in the bushes, and on

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a large one coming near, presented my piece, which missed fire, on account of the priming having been wetted. The animals walked along, without taking the least alarm; and, having reloaded my gun, I followed them, and presented a second time. But, now, a disaster of the heaviest kind had befallen me; for, on attempting to fire, I found that I had lost the cock. I had previously lost the screw by which it was fastened to the lock; and to prevent this from being lost also, I had tied it in its place, with a leather string: the lock, to prevent it catching in the bows, I had carried under my molton coat.

Of all the suffering which I had experienced this seemed to me most

severe. I was in a strange country, and knew not how far I had to go. I had been three days without food; I was now without the means of procuring myself either food or fire. Despair had almost overpowered me; but, I soon resigned myself into the hands of that Providence, whose arm had so often saved me, and returned on my track, in search of what I had lost. My search was in vain, and I resumed my course, wet, cold and hungry, almost without clothing.

The sun was setting, when I descended a hill, at the bottom of which was a small lake, entirely frozen over.

On drawing near, I saw a beaverlodge in the middle, offering some

faint prospect of food; but I found it already broken up. While I looked at it, it suddenly occurred to me, that I had seen it before; and turning my eyes round the place, I discovered a small tree, which I had myself cut down, in the autumn, when, in company with my friends, I had taken the beaver. I was no longer at a loss, but knew both the discounted and the route to the encampment. The latter was only to follow the course of a small stream of water, which ran from the encampment to the lake on which I stood. An hour before I had thought myself the most miserable of men; and now I leaped for joy, and called myself the happiest.

An hour before I had thought myself the most miserable of men; and now I leaped for joy, and called myself the happiest.

The whole of the night, and through all the succeeding day, I walked up the rivulet, and at sunset reached encampment where I was received with the warmest expressions of pleasure by the family, by whom I had given up for lost, after a long vain search for me in the woods.

Some days elapsed, during which I rested myself, and recruited my strength: after this I resumed the chase, secure, that as the snow had now fallen, I could always return the way I went.

Elizabeth Edwards is senior editor of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. lissa@traversemagazine.com Chris Sharp is a New York City-based illustrator specializing in images for advertising, design, publishing and editorial clients. His work can be seen on Instagram @instachrissharp.

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P H O T O S BY D AV E W E I D N E R

FROM LUDINGTON TO PETOSKE Y, FIND YOUR BEST WINTER SELF AT THESE FOUR COZ Y GETAWAYS. PL AN A DAY TRIP TO SNOWSHOE, SKI, ICE SK ATE OR FAT TIRE BIKE, THEN COME SUNDOWN, REST AND RECHARGE IN A GLOWING IGLOO OR TOAST Y TENT. CHEERS TO SNOW Y ESCAPES!

Cold Comfort

BY C A R LY S I M P S O N A N D A L L I S O N J A R R E L L

In addition to stopping in for a bite and a brew, Hop Lot co-founder Drew Lutke recommends rounding out your trip by heading to nearby Suttons Bay Bikes for fat tire and snowshoe rentals.

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Clockwise: Boyne Valley Vineyards is family-friendly and dog-friendly (dogs must remain outside on a six-foot leash); there’s live music on Saturdays from 2–6 p.m. Find December’s lineup online.

Boyne Valley Vineyards ...

Location: 05325 US-131, Petoskey boynevalleyvineyards.com

The Scene: A winding driveway takes visitors past a frost-kissed vineyard leading to a soaring barn-style tasting room. Inside, groups warm up around the fireplace or settle in under thick blankets on the sofa and arm chairs. Outside, three igloos and two teepees treat groups to a cozy setting on the wooded property and protection from blustery winds and snow flurries.

Eat: The Burnt Ends Basket—smoked beef brisket bathed in Korean BBQ sauce.

Drink: Pair the brisket with a glass of 2021 Estate Marquette. This vintage is dry, lightly oaked and medium bodied with notes of cherry, black currant and blackberries.

38 38 T R ATVREARVS EE R /S E A U/ GDUESCTE 2M0B2E2 R

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How to book an igloo or teepee: One igloo is first come, first served; all others must be reserved. Call 231.373.2090.

Snowy Excursion: Snowshoe the neighboring Postle Farm Preserve. Boyne Valley Vineyards has 30 sets of snowshoes; anyone who purchases a glass of wine is welcome to borrow a pair for free and explore several miles of marked trails that connect directly to the property.

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One of the best parts of Base Camp Iron Fish? Your Salted Maple Old Fashioned and woodfired pizza will be delivered right to your tent.

Base Camp Iron Fish ...

Location: 14234 Dzuibanek Rd., Thompsonville ironfishdistillery.com

The Scene: As fall fades into winter, Iron Fish Distillery transforms into Base Camp Iron Fish—a twinkling village of heated canvas tents where visitors can warm up while enjoying the distillery’s spirits, cocktails, wood-fired pizzas and other snacks. Tents are waterproof, breathable and come in three sizes, accommodating groups of 2–4 or 6–8 people. Jesse Den Herder, creative marketing director, recommends dropping in on a Friday or Saturday for live music (find the lineup on their website).

Eat: Pizza! Try the Blue Fern with barrelaged honey, Granny Smith apples, bleu cheese and fire-roasted kale.

Drink: Den Herder’s favorite is the Maple Moon—a seasonal cocktail served in a large coffee mug, made with Iron Fish bourbon maple syrup, bourbon whiskey finished in maple syrup barrels, Higher Grounds coffee and topped with whipped cream and a maple syrup drizzle.

How to book a tent: Four tents are available by reservation for 90-minute timeframes. Iron Fish also has one large heated tent available on a first come, first served basis, as well as snug outdoor seating around fire pits. Book online at ironfishdistillery.com.

Snowy Excursion: Just three miles away lies Crystal Mountain, your destination for alpine skiing. Choose from 58 downhill trails, all covered in fresh powder thanks to their top-notch snowmaking capabilities. crystalmountain.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN’S MAGAZINE

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Hop Lot Brewing Co. ...

Location: 658 S. West Bay Shore Dr., Suttons Bay

Snowy Excursion: Head to downtown

hoplotbrewing.com

Suttons Bay for ice skating at the rink on the corner of Broadway and Lincoln Street. Each winter, volunteers flood the area and groom the ice for skating and pickup hockey games (the rink is lighted during evening skating).

The Scene: It’s no secret that Hop Lot is the O.G. of cozy igloo villages, but did you know that they’ve expanded their beer garden over the past few years? Expect even more heated igloos to choose from this winter—18 to be exact—with each dome seating up to eight people. You’ll also find five large fire pits, perfect for an impromptu gathering, as you enter the beer garden.

Eat: Co-founder Drew Lutke says their spicy chicken sandwich—hand-battered and dipped in house-made hot sauce—is worth the drive: “If the fire pits and igloos don’t warm you up, this definitely will.”

Taco Tuesdays are another highlight, featuring a trio of their ever-popular tacos.

Drink: Lutke recommends The North Porter—a medium-bodied deep roast with hints of chocolate.

How to book an igloo: To check availability and reserve an igloo, visit hoplotbrewing.com. Reservations are for 75-minute intervals.

Igloos booked up? Don’t worry— Hop Lot has plenty of fire pits where you can warm up, or head indoors for a seat with a view of the beer garden.

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Ludington Bay Brewing Co. ...

Location: 515 S. James St., Ludington ludingtonbaybrewing.com

The Scene: The patio at this downtown brewery is delightfully snug, even on the bitterest winter days. Two igloos, each armed with lights, space heaters, a table and chairs for up to eight people, are tucked into snowdrifts that grow higher and higher throughout the month. “The heaters do a pretty good job of keeping it comfortable in there, but in the depths of winter we encourage people to dress warm—it’s still Michigan,” laughs Manager Chelsea Henderson.

Eat: The full food menu is available; Henderson recommends coming out for a Friday fish fry (and live music inside the taproom from 6–9 p.m.) or the smoked ribs on special every Saturday and Sunday.

Drink: D’Booty. Each Wednesday through the end of the year Ludington Bay Brewing is releasing a new flavor of its bourbon barrel aged stout, such as hazelnut, pecan pie, oatmeal cookie and peppermint, during “12 Weeks of D’Booty.”

How to book an igloo:

photos courtesy of Ludington Bay Brewing Company

Reservable by the hour; not required, but recommended.

Call 231.239.6690.

Snowy Excursion: The nearby School Forest Trails offer seven miles of wooded singletrack mountain-biking trails that are groomed by Shoreline Cycling Club for fat tire biking in the winter.

Find trail conditions online: shorelinecyclingclub.org.

From top: In addition to two igloos, the patio has several space heaters, a fire pit and a doublesided fireplace that warms guests inside and out; Follow the brewery on Facebook for updates on winter events, like the ticketed five-course beer dinners.

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NIGHT DIVINE On one magical evening in Manistee, the spirit of Christmas comes alive.

by KANDACE CHAPPLE / photos by ALLISON JARRELL

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It’s

a last-minute decision, one we’ve been tempted to make for several years now: To go to Manistee’s Victorian Sleighbell Parade during the Old Christmas Weekend. The annual event is legendary—everyone who has seen it insists their friends go the following year. Finally, I’m taking my husband, Tim, to see it for ourselves.

When the two of us arrive, the entire town is buzzing. There are women in flowing, fulllength dresses, their wide skirts parting the crowd as they walk. Draft horses breathe white streams of mist into the biting air and vendors roasting chestnuts line the sidewalks.

We walk along River Street and take it in with wonder.

The temp is bitter, maybe zero degrees, but it doesn’t matter. Every year about 10,000 people descend on the city of Manistee to enjoy the charm of an old Victorian Christmas in any weather. Families gather together for warmth; kids climb on dads’ shoulders in Christmas PJs and winter coats and teenagers perk up to see what the hubbub is all about.

We run into friends from home, Kerry and Nathan. “You finally came! You’ll love it!” This is the refrain of everyone who’s been.

The parade is a culmination of Manistee’s biggest to-do—a four-day celebration of its 150-year history—with dozens of events. Tonight is everyone’s favorite. My husband and I tuck in next to a brick wall, a windbreak. The crowd holds still as one, on tiptoe, watching and waiting.

Finally, it’s time. The parade is starting.

Ladies and gentlemen in Victorian dress walk by, then a group of golden retrievers with their owners decked in suits and top hats; bands, stilt walkers, an organ grinder. There are some 30 floats in all. The parade adheres to its tradition of no vehicles—only horse-drawn carriages are allowed.

What we are all eagerly awaiting, however, is the arrival of the tree. First comes the sound of Belgian draft horses’ dinner plate–size hooves; then their steaming breath and the ripple of their muscles as they haul a 30-foot Christmas tree, upright, on a sleigh. The crowd is quiet, in reverence, as it passes. Then a cheer goes up and suddenly thousands of people are streaming toward us, all falling into step behind the tree. It’s tradition— everyone is headed down to the end of River Street, to gather and light the tree together, with caroling and fireworks to finish the evening.

It’s a perfect winter night—roasted chestnuts, Christmas cheer, bad caroling, told-youso friends. We’ll be back.

KANDACE CHAPPLE IS A FREELANCE WRITER AND OWNS MICHIGAN GIRL, A COMPANY THAT HOSTS OUTDOOR EVENTS AND TRIPS FOR WOMEN IN THE GRAND TRAVERSE REGION. MI-GIRL.COM // ALLISON JARRELL IS ASSOCIATE EDITOR OF TRAVERSE, NORTHERN MICHIGAN’S MAGAZINE. ALLISON@MYNORTH.COM

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Manistee High School’s marching band and color guard brave last year’s cold temps during the Victorian M I C H I G A N ' S M A G ASleighbell Z I N E 45Parade.

11/7/22 11:10 AM

photo courtesy of Manistee County Visitors Bureau

THIS YEAR’S EVENT RUNS DEC. 1–4, WITH THE VICTORIAN SLEIGHBELL PARADE ON SATURDAY, DEC. 3 AT 5:30 P.M. ENJOY ACTIVITIES FOR KIDS AND ALL AGES, AS WELL AS SPECIALS AT AREA BUSINESSES DURING THE FOUR-DAY CELEBRATION. A NEW ADDITION TO THE LINEUP THIS YEAR: “1885 COMES ALIVE: AN AUTHENTIC VICTORIAN EVENT.” THE TICKETED, BLACK-TIE SOIRÉE IS DEC. 2 AT THE RAMSDELL REGIONAL CENTER FOR THE ARTS AND INCLUDES ENTERTAINMENT, APPETIZERS AND COSTUMES RELEVANT TO THE 1885 TIME PERIOD. FOR A COMPLETE SCHEDULE, VISIT MANISTEESLEIGHBELLPARADE.COM.

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This page: Chestnuts roasting along River Street; Anna Marten and Maggie traveled from Traverse City to walk in the parade; the Festival of Trees at the Ramsdell Ballroom features decorated trees on display; and a team of horses gets ready to pull the tree.

MAKE IT A WEEKEND stay THE RAMSDELL INN, MANISTEE IN THE HEART OF DOWNTOWN SITS THE RAMSDELL INN, A HISTORIC BOUTIQUE HOTEL AND HOME TO COZY TJ’S PUB. THIS INN IS DIRECTLY ON THE PARADE ROUTE, AND THE 1891 VICTORIAN ARCHITECTURE, STAINED GLASS WINDOWS AND ELABORATELY CARVED WOODWORK ARE A PERFECT BACKDROP FOR THE FESTIVITIES. RAMSDELLINN.NET

THE DEMPSEY MANOR, MANISTEE THE DEMPSEY MANOR, A.K.A THE “QUEEN OF MANISTEE” IS THE LARGEST VICTORIAN HOME IN TOWN. EXPECT PERIOD DECORATED ROOMS WITH STITCHED QUILTS, RICHLY UPHOLSTERED CHAIRS, ANTIQUE BEDROOM FURNITURE AND ORIGINAL HAND-CARVED WOOD-AND-TILE FIREPLACES. PLUS, ENJOY ITS TWO RESIDENT “PARLOR CATS,” ABIGAIL AND BLANCHE. DEMPSEYMANORBANDB.COM

THE CANFIELD HOUSE, ONEKAMA THIS RENOVATED 1900S COTTAGE WAS ONCE OWNED BY LUMBER BARON CHARLES CANFIELD. IT SITS BETWEEN LAKE MICHIGAN AND PORTAGE LAKE, OFFERING GORGEOUS VIEWS. IF YOU’RE LUCKY, YOU’LL BE SERVED THEIR HOMEMADE SAUSAGE-AND-CRANBERRY QUICHE FOR BREAKFAST. CANFIELDHOUSEBNB.COM

eat BLUE FISH KITCHEN + BAR PERCHED ON THE MANISTEE CHANNEL DOWNTOWN, BLUE FISH OFFERS A WELLROUNDED MENU OF FARM-TO-TABLE AND ARTISAN EATS, CRAFT BEER AND GREAT LAKES FISH. RESERVATIONS ARE ENCOURAGED. BLUEFISHKITCHENBAR.COM NORTH CHANNEL BREWING CO. NORTH CHANNEL BREWING IN THE HISTORIC NORTH CHANNEL BUILDING IS RIGHT NEXT TO THE MANISTEE RIVER AND DRAWBRIDGE—A FAB PLACE TO GRAB A BURGER AND WATCH THE OCCASIONAL FREIGHTER PASSING THROUGH. NORTHCHANNELBREWING.COM THE PAINTED LADY SALOON THE OLDEST OPERATING SALOON IN MANISTEE HAS KEPT ITS OLD-TOWN FEEL AND CHARM. IT OFFERS AMERICAN CUISINE AND SERVES BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND DINNER, ALONG WITH A FULL-SERVICE BAR. THEPAINTEDLADYSALOON.COM

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NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE DECEMBER/JANUARY 2022/2023

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inside DECEMBER/JANUARY 2022-23 NORTHERN

32 08 16

24

features

departments

16 / THE VICTORIAN ON MADISON

07 / EDITOR’S NOTE

An old home gets a makeover that exudes the homeowner’s own smashing style.

24 / GRACIOUS ON WALLOON

In Love with Northern Michigan

08 / NORTHERN MOOD

Organic Elegance for the Holidays

Built with last-century quality, this classically beautiful home is state-of-the-art smart.

10 / STATEMENT DOORS

32 / HAPPILY EVER AFTER

Nine ways to turn the way in, way cool.

ON HAMLIN LAKE

An architect turns the typical two-story floorplan upside down so the owners can age in place.

(DRESSED FOR THE SEASON)!

12 / COLLECTIONS

Two designers deconstruct kitchens they love.

COVER PHOTO BY PHOENIX PHOTOGRAPHY

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NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE DECEMBER/JANUARY 2022-23

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A MyNorth Media Publication Michael Wnek Cara McDonald

PRESIDENT EXECUTIVE EDITOR

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EDITOR’S NOTE

IN LOVE WITH NORTHERN MICHIGAN

I

’m

as happy as a clam in my home in Glen Arbor. I first came to Glen Arbor, where my grandparents lived, when I was six months old and continued every summer until I moved here permanently after graduating from Michigan State. The town is so woven into the fabric of my life that I feel like I am a local. Not all agree, including my smarty-pants neighbor, Michael, born here the summer I was 5, who says that because I wasn’t actually birthed here I can never achieve local-hood.

My three children, too, like to rub in the fact that they were born here and I wasn’t. Oh well, I still call Glen Arbor mine.

But that love spreads to all of Northern Michigan. In my work both for Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine and Northern Home & Cottage I am frequently on the road up and down our Lake Michigan gold coast. Its picturesque beauty never ceases to amaze me. And although I will never leave Glen Arbor, I often play the game: What if Glen Arbor hadn’t come into my life so naturally; would I have settled in another Northern Michigan town? After all, they each have their own beguiling, very individual charm.

Take the Petoskey/Harbor Springs/Walloon Lake area for example. Set in the shadow of the Mackinac State Historic Parks—Colonial Michilimackinac and much of Mackinac Island—this area exudes history. Scraps of Ernest Hemingway’s life (the writer summered here through his early adulthood) are everywhere, including his childhood cottage, Windermere, on Walloon Lake, which still looks as though he never left. Century-old Victorians reign here, but so do new-builds that carry on the finely built estate quality of those stunning homes of yore. In this issue, we introduce you to a Walloon Lake beauty with that tradition of elegant craftsmanship, designed by architect Greg Presley, built by Harbor View Custom Builders and decorated by Jennifer Keiser of The Quiet Moose.

We travel south in these pages to an authentic Victorian in Traverse City, renovated by the owner, Marissa Wege (find her on Instagram @northern_ migration), with help from contractor Joe Buteyn and kitchen designer Kelsey Duda. Wege’s house and lifestyle are dream-worthy. Not only has she turned it into her own stylish and unique nest, but she and her two sons are also just a walk or a bike ride from all the beaches, trails and eateries that downtown Traverse City offers.

Follow us, now, a bit farther south along Lake Michigan to the Ludington area, where we show you a home designed by Manistee architect Kendra Thompson and built by Curtis Construction. This house preserves the historic character of the early last century homes constructed in the lumber era days in this region. Just as gorgeous is its setting on Hamlin Lake—12 miles long and covering 5,000 acres. This stunning lake is graced by Ludington State Park on its western shore, a park often called the crown jewel of Michigan’s state park system. Live on Hamlin Lake, and you are a boat ride away from the park with its beaches on both Hamlin and Lake Michigan. After a day in the sun, nearby Ludington is loaded with hip breweries and eateries to explore.

Wow, now how cool would it be to live there?

UpNorth design inspiration, building ideas, & decorating tips straight to your inbox monthly.

Sign up here: MyNorth.com/newsletter

Elizabeth Edwards is senior editor of Northern Home & Cottage.

Lissa@traversemagazine.com NHC

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Northern Mood

Organic Elegance for the Holidays CURATED BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS & CARA MCDONALD

Cheers to Winter Imagine James himself pouring a dirty double in this Vietri Gatsby Martini Glass. $24, Cutler’s cutlersonline.com

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4

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1. Gather ’Round Woodworker Ivan Hoath, based in Mesick, made this custom pine farm table for MyNorth Executive Editor Cara McDonald from a few internet inspo photos. At 73 inches long, it just squeaked through the door frame of her 1910 bungalow, but still has room to seat eight. Prices vary/on request.

3. A Sophisticated Glow Update your dining room look in the flick of a switch with the Wolfe Linear Chandelier in polished nickel by Michigan company Regina Andrew. $675, available through The Quiet Moose, Betsie Bay Furniture or Cedar Creek Interiors reginaandrew.com

madeinmesick.com 2. Pass the Love We crave the handcrafted purity of Juliska Puro Dinnerware from the company that calls itself the Architects of Togetherness. Three-piece serving set. $260, Cutler’s

4. Gauzy and Gorgeous If there is such a thing as a sexy table runner, here it is—from Italy, of course.

The soft washed linen is un po trasparente, si? With a sweet touch of trim, it still presents as sophisticated for your holiday table setting. $79.95, Williams Sonoma

cutlersonline.com

williams-sonoma.com

photo of table by Dave Weidner

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5. Rugged Luxury The silky finish and hammered motif on the Charlotte flatware by Simon Pearce go together like leather and lace. Order through Sheffield’s Fine Furniture in Traverse City and they’ll pick up the shipping fee to their store.

Five-piece place setting. $105, Sheffield’s sheffields-gallery.com

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collections

STATEMENT DOORS For over two decades, Cottage Company has been building homes in the Harbor Springs area that stand out due to attention to detail that begins at the front door. Enjoy their holiday greeting—packed with inspiration for your own entrance.

BY KELLY KONOSKE / PHOTOS BY COTTAGE COMPANY

Door 1. A traditional or historical design of this old school-style “Dutch Door”—where the top of the door can open independently of the bottom—has to be one of my favorites for adding charm to any cottage or farmhouse. It can be open and inviting on top allowing sunlight and breezes to enter and can keep pets and small children from getting out.

Door 2. A versatile door for a number of architectural styles, this flat panel with Roman ogee sticking profile and glass lites will always prove timeless and inviting.

The clean lines, matching sidelites and transom set the stage for a grand but welcoming entrance.

Door 3. Both cottage- and Craftsman-style, this is a solid stained wood door with beadboard inset panels and transom above.

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Door 4. This traditional- or Victorian-style door combines raised panels with arched glass lites, offering the best of both styles.

Door 5. These well-appointed French doors are the entrance to our Cottage Company offices in Harbor Springs. I love the clean white, polished nickel door hardware and glass paneling because it is timeless and always feels fresh. Note the leaded glass transom that greets visitors before they enter the covered area.

Door 6. This door style works with so many architectural styles—traditional, colonial, Craftsman, French country, Cape Cod, modern farmhouse—making versatility its greatest attribute.

This one is stained wood with matching sidelites and raised paneling.

Door 7. The forest green door with its quarter-bead sticking flat panel and glass lites looks perfect on this log home where it complements the warmth of the logs and the unfussy hardware. This door would present equally well on a Craftsman- or cottage-style home.

Door 8. With its beautifully stained wood that contrasts so strikingly with the white sidelites and transom, this door has a French-country feel.

Door 9. Another Dutch door, this one is painted a playful color that announces the fun folks who live behind it.

Kelly Konoske is creative director & principal at Cottage Company Interiors.

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KITCHEN SEASON

The holidays are made for snugging in the kitchen with family, friends and plenty of comfort food. Read on as two top Northern Michigan kitchen designers give us their takes on making the best room in the house extra cozy.

CURATED BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS

PAIGE MAURER Paige Maurer of Paige Lee Interiors is an award-winning and nationally recognized interior, kitchen and bath designer who provides a range of services for her clients, including interior design and architecture,

With its earthy red brick and woodsy green cupboards this kitchen slips into all four seasons beautifully. But it especially shines at the holidays. Here’s a deconstruction of Maurer’s renovation of a 1970s kitchen.

photo courtesy of Paige Maurer

photos courtesy of Cottage Company

space planning and project management.

A KITCHEN FOR ALL SEASONS

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WHAT MAKES IT GREAT? Color. “My favorite color is Pittsburgh Paints Night Watch. I love this color so much I designed this whole kitchen around it. Red brick plus green cabinets equals a beautiful palette for the holidays (and any time of year).”

IF THIS WERE MAURER’S OWN KITCHEN SHE …

MIGHT CHOOSE: A Red Vein Calcutta marble countertop.

“Something about the rich mahogany and plum veins just gives me the holiday vibes.

Calia Stone is my go-to source for the most beautiful marble!”

Cabinetry Hardware. Maurer kept it simple but warm with Exeter cabinetry hardware in a honey bronze finish.

MIGHT ADD: Sink. The Luca 33-inch single-basin farmhouse sink made from hammered copper plays off the upscale rustic feel of the kitchen.

A Yeti Sheepskin Couch. “I love this collection because who doesn’t want to be wrapped in luxe, long-haired New Zealand Sheepskin on a cold winter day?”

MIGHT BAKE: Countertops.

Stain-resistant Definiti quartz countertops in Crestola give the classic look of marble without the upkeep.

Grain-free cinnamon rolls. “I love cooking and baking, especially this time of year. I have a gluten intolerance so I love all of Chef Laura’s recipes.”

Get her recipe at lovecheflaura.com.

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collections

KITCHEN SEASON MEAGAN MCLAIN Kitchen designer Meagan McLain, her husband and their three children live on their “hobby” farm on the east side of Traverse City.

With two dozen cows, eight pigs and fields of corn and veggies, however, some folks might call it more than a hobby. This year she and her children canned more than a hundred jars of veggies and made soups and other dishes from what they harvested. Needless to say, while McLain can and has designed kitchens in a wide range of styles—all of them beautiful and functional—she is more than at home

photo by Courtmey Kent

with the modern farmhouse look.

McLain designed this kitchen several years back but it still feels fresh and timeless.

photo by J. Lynn Photography

A FAVORITE FARMHOUSE-STYLE KITCHEN

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IF THIS WAS MCLAIN’S OWN KITCHEN SHE …

MIGHT ADD: Two of her favorite accent colors

by Bungalow Paints: (available at EB2 Vintage in Traverse City).

Front Door Red

Iron Gate

WOULD COOK UP:

photo by J. Lynn Photography

A roast from Edgecomb Farms on Hammond Road in Traverse City.

Quartz countertops. The Bianco Aspen quartz by Lakeside Surfaces looks like marble but won’t stain (when you’re canning tomatoes, for instance).

Custom-angled drainboard. Great for easy draining of just-rinsed veggies.

Cabinets. These hand-crafted cabinets were made locally by Wooden Hammer LTD. in Williamsburg.

Built-in hutch. Especially suited for storing serving platters and other pieces for entertaining.

Custom ladder. This rolling ladder was designed by Richelieu Hardware for reaching the hutch.

AND BAKE: This super-easy fruit cobbler for holiday parties.

Throw five cups of peaches (or any assortment of fruit— fresh or frozen, thawed and drained) in the bottom of a pie dish. Cut a stick of butter into one pouch (1 lb. 1.5 oz.)

Betty Crocker Oatmeal Cookie and mix until it forms coarse crumbs. Spread over the fruit and bake at 375 degrees for 30 minutes—or until golden and bubbly.

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photo by J. Lynn Photography

WHAT GIVES IT THE FARMHOUSE FEEL?

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house and home

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THE VICTORIAN ON MADISON A TALENTED REALTOR/DESIGNER GIVES A TRAVERSE CITY VICTORIAN A MAKEOVER— CREATING AN INSPIRED HOME FOR HERSELF AND HER TWO BOYS.

By E L I Z A B E T H E DWA R D S Photos by J E S S E DAV I D G R E E N

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fter her divorce,

Marissa Wege wanted to create a warm and welcoming space for herself and two young children that felt like an expression of her personal style. As a Realtor, she knew how to look through the layers and see potential in a classic Victorian on Traverse City’s west side, built in 1863 by the city’s first doctor. Wege immediately fell in love with the old house’s solid bones, beautiful double lot and the location within walking distance of downtown and a stone’s throw from Hickory Hills Ski Area, where her sons love to ski. But there was something else: “The house itself is moody,” she says—pointing out a quality she feels is almost alive. “I’m the type of person

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who really enjoys the space that I live in,” she adds. “It kind of sets the tone for how I feel during the day, and so my space is pretty sacred.”

After she purchased the house, Wege worked with an architect on plans for a full renovation of the fourbedroom, three-bathroom home. She decided to put those plans on hold, however. One reason: Keeping the previous owners’ own thoughtful renovations, which included adding important features for a modern family (functional closets!), while preserving historic details including crown molding and maple floors.

Wege chose to work within the existing footprint, and with that decision she set out to make the kitchen more functional without adding on. She began by giving the cabinets and appliances to a friend who needed them,

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Perimeter counters form a U-shape around the island. The cabinetry, built by Wolf Wood Co. based in Grand Rapids, is outfitted with leaded glass doors and space-saving appliance garages.

Marble countertops and backsplash and an Italian Bertazzoni range lend a timeless elegance.

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CALL FOR H OM E S !

Feature your creation in the 2023 tour Sales@MyNorth.com

Let’s plan. Design.

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kendrathompson-architects.com 803 cherry st • manistee, mi 49660 t: 231.723.4195 c: 231.510.5012 e: kt@kendrathompson-architects.com

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Fine cabinetry For your home Jill Brecheisen, Designer • kitchensbydesignpetoskey.com 214 Petoskey St. • 231.347.8400 • Downtown Petoskey

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE DECEMBER/JANUARY 2022-23

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PAINT COLORS GIVE THE SPACE A VIBRANT PERSONALITY. “I WANTED SOMETHING CLASSIC BUT ALSO

FEMININE AND SEXY.”

creating a blank slate to work from.

Next, working with kitchen designer Kelsey Duda and builder Joe Buteyn, she had a kitchen door to the yard switched out with spacious glass sliders that opened up the view, and then replaced the existing large square island with an oval-shaped island built around the original floor-to-ceiling chimney.

Paint colors give the space a vibrant personality. “I wanted something classic but also feminine and sexy,” she says.

“And not boring. Definitely not boring.”

Cabinets were transformed with Farrow & Ball’s Dead Salmon. (Strange as the name sounds, it refers to the flat or “dead” finish of the aged shade of pink at England’s historic Kedleston Hall.)

On the walls, Wege used another Farrow & Ball color, London Clay.

Other rooms get the same careful color treatment. “I brought in colors NHC

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Previous owners had created kid-sized spaces that Wege definitely wanted to keep for her children. From one of the children’s bedrooms, a passageway hidden behind a cupboard door leads into a secret space tiered with lofts, outfitted with lights and painted with stars. In the other child’s room, a tucked-away loft space above the closet is perfect for snuggling up with a book. The three-season porch was an addition to the home by a previous owner. “Evenings in it end with everyone looking at the stars,” says Wege. that I felt were calming and soothing,” she says. “I love greens; they make me feel calm and safe.” Farrow & Ball’s Green Smoke gives the library a soothing, sophisticated feel.

Wege lime-washed other walls, a process that allows brushstrokes to show through.

“It adds contrast and texture and makes the spaces feel older,” she says.

The home’s eclectic furnishings—re-covered vintage Italian sofas, rice-paper light fixtures and assorted midcentury pieces— round out Wege’s distinctive style. Her penchant for collecting, in fact, has led her into a second career. This summer she opened a new shop called Au Sable in Leland—a charmed space where customers can find their own piece of her inimitable style.

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Total Commitment to Quality

resources Contractor Joe Buteyn buteyndesign@gmail.com Cabinetry Wolf Wood Co. wolfwoodco.com Kitchen Design Kelsey Duda kelsey.duda@gmail.com Sink/Refrigerator Fergusons fergusonshowrooms.com

More than 25 years of experience in building distinctive homes while exceeding the expectations of discriminating clients. jim@cooleycontracting.com

Bradley J. Butcher, AIA 989.705.8400 • sidockgroup.com Novi • Wyandotte • Lansing • Muskegon • Gaylord • Sault Ste. Marie • Tampa • Williamsport, PA

Read informative articles about us at MyNorth.com: search Sidock Group

S. T E K C I T L A LOC .

E C A L P E N O M yN o rt h T i c k e t s.c o m • 800.83 6.0717

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house and home

GRACIOUS ON WALLOON VINTAGE BY DESIGN, THIS LAKE COTTAGE LIVES AS BEAUTIFULLY IN THE WINTER AS IT DOES THE SUMMER.

By E L I Z A B E T H E DWA R D S / Photos by P H O E N I X P H OTO G R A P H Y

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W

purchased a lot on Walloon Lake they were so excited they couldn’t think much past what the porch would look like—and what the view of the lake would look like from it. No worries.

The Gusick’s Realtor, Pat Leavy, had them covered. Sensing the couple’s sensibilities— they wanted a classic lake cottage that looked as though it had stood on the site for a half-century—Leavy connected them with architect Greg Presley and builder Nick Fettig of Harbor View Custom Builders.

Those connections in turn led to kitchen and bath designer Jill Brecheisen of Kitchens by Design and interior decorator Jennifer Keiser of The Quiet Moose. As the Gusicks were to find out, Leavy had helped them assemble a roster of Petoskey-area design-and-build all-stars.

That porch: Check. Outdoor fireplace?

Check. Ski lockers? Check. Outdoor kitchen?

Check. Spectacular view of Walloon Lake?

Triple check. Presley and Fettig took it from there, Presley designing a Craftsman-esque home outfitted top to bottom with modern amenities, with Fettig’s team building the way most folks don’t build houses anymore.

“Greg designed certain touches that you just don’t see today,” Justin says, citing details like the home’s open eaves clad in tongueand-groove Douglas fir.

Indeed, the home exudes hand-crafted quality, from Amish-made black walnut cabinetry to the reclaimed American chestnut beams and barn doors the couple purchased in Ohio. This vintage beauty is anything but old-fashioned behind the scenes, however: “I can control everything—heat, blinds, sound system, lights—from my phone when we’re not here,” Justin says. hen justin and liz gusick

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Interior designer Jennifer Keiser of The Quiet Moose worked with the Gusicks and their team—builder Nick Fettig of Harbor View Custom Builders, architect Greg Presley and Jill Brecheisen of Kitchens by Design—for two years, consulting on finishes, trim, cabinet profiles, tile, countertops, flooring, lighting, stone work, exterior and interior paints, wallpaper, mirrors and furniture.

“The Gusicks had a great vision,” says Keiser. “The furniture pivoted off the blue hues in their kitchen cabinets and granite counters and the rich browns and grays in their walnut floors and custom fireplace stone.”

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The bunk-room style is vintage nautical. In the kitchen, Brecheisen customdesigned the range hood with its brass accent band to coordinate with the surrounding hardware and fixtures. Dual Cove dishwashers flank the sink, the refrigerator is a built-in panel-ready Subzero, the range is a 48-inch Wolf Gourmet and the 7-by-8-foot island is topped with natural quartzite polished Nuvalato and is packed with storage space. The barstools are Vanguard with a custom leg finish to match the cabinets. The dining table and chairs (arched top, smoked nickel nailhead trim) are by Barclay Butera.

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The primary bedroom echoes the entire home’s sophisticated casual blend of color, pattern and texture creating an inviting and understatedly elegant interior. The primary bath includes a double-bowl vanity, and each vanity side has personalized drawers as well as a decorative linen and towel storage cabinet. “We selected a bold graphite paint to add dimension and depth to the space,” says Brecheisen. “The cabinet styling is very classic and complements key elements in the home.”

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resources Realtor Patrick Leavy patleavy.com Architect Presley Architecture presleyarchitecture.com Builder Harbor View Custom Builders harborviewcustombuilders.com Interior Design The Quiet Moose quietmoose.com

CONNECT TO THE OUTDOORS AND EACH OTHER

Kitchen & Bath Design Kitchens by Design kitchensbydesignpetoskey.com

When you bring natural light and fresh air deeper into your home, it can change how you think, feel, and work in your space. At Marvin, windows and doors are designed to open new possibilities, helping you feel connected to the outdoors while you connect with each other.

Windows & Doors Kolbe, Old Mission Windows oldmissionwindows.com

Experience windows and doors differently at your local Marvin dealer today.

Flooring Everlast Floors everlastfloors.com Porch Screens Phantom Retractable Screens retractsolutions.com Smart Home Live Wired Systems livewiredsystems.com

Petoskey and Traverse City MI www.tmmill.com

Landscaping Robinson’s Landscaping & Nursery robinsonslandscaping.com 2021 Marvin Lumber and Cedar Co., LLC. Architecture by Peterssen/Keller Architecture, Minneapolis, MN.

©

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house and home

HAPPILY EVER AFTER …

A FAMILY BUILDS A LOW-MAINTENANCE, VIEW-INSPIRED HAMLIN LAKE DREAM HOUSE THEY’LL LIVE EASILY IN FOR YEARS TO COME.

By E L I Z A B E T H E D WA R D S / Photos by DAV E S P E C K M A N

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s with most northern michigan homes, Mark and Amy Meisels’ started with a dream. The dream dates back to the 1980s when they camped with their young children at Ludington State Park, a stunning stretch of dunes and forest wedged between Lake Michigan and Hamlin Lake.

“Amy and I decided then that if we ever had the opportunity to find property on Hamlin Lake that was affordable to us, we would do it,” Mark recalls.

Fast-forward to the Christmas of 2012. The Meisels, who were living in Indiana then, spent the holidays with Mark’s family in Saginaw, Michigan.

When Mark suggested they take a couple of days to scout property on Hamlin Lake, Amy was in. After seeing several properties, their Realtor took them to a three-acre parcel with 300 feet on Hamlin Lake—that

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AMY WAS IMPRESSED WITH THOMPSON’S EYE FOR DESIGNS THAT REFLECT THE AREA’S

HISTORIC ARCHITECTURE.

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came with a low, cinderblock cottage. The Meisels immediately fell in love with the land. And that cottage? It would do until they were ready to build their dream home.

When that time came several years ago, Amy researched local architects and came up with Kendra Thompson, who is based in Manistee. “I always try to hire women when I can,” she says. Beyond that, Amy was impressed with Thompson’s eye for designs that reflect the area’s historic architecture, as well as her ideas for making their visiting children and their families comfortable.

The home that Thompson designed for the Meisels has an abundance of historic lake cottage accents, including transom windows, lap and shake siding on the exterior and, most notably, a third-level cupola. But just as important are her

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Glass sliders across the lakeside on this lower level take in the view all the way down the lake to the dunes of Ludington State Park. Porcelain tile that looks like wood makes it easy to clean up sand and water from the lake. A generous 13-by-5-foot island welcomes everyone to hang with the cook in the kitchen, while across the great room a real stone fireplace with a forced air system adds ambiance— and heat in the winter to supplement the propane.

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thoughtful modern touches. The two guest bedrooms on the second floor, for example, are large enough for a young family to share one room. Additionally, each room has its own water closet and sink, with a shared shower and changing area connecting the rooms. A bonus room over the garage adds sleep and play space for older children.

Thompson beautifully accommodated the Meisels’ request for the main living area, kitchen and primary bedroom to be on the lower level— actually a walkout level as the home is set into a slope—so that it would be directly connected to their waterfront. To keep this ground level feeling open and airy, she opened up the stairway shaft to the big, light-filled entry on the main level. Beyond the added light, says Thompson, “The openness keeps the lower-level feeling very connected to the upper level.”

The garage is also on this lower level, meaning fewer stairs to climb so that the couple will be able to age in place in this home. And given that no stairways separate them from their garden and waterfront, they will be able to access their grounds as they age with relative ease.

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Amy, an artist, has a studio connected to the bonus room above the garage, where generous windows take in more views of Hamlin Lake. The views are even more expansive one floor up in the cupola that houses Mark’s office. Mark’s wish for an efficient and virtually maintenance-free home is fulfilled with in-floor heating (even in the garage), cement board exterior siding and weather-resistant Trex decks.

The Meisels have been living happily-everafter on Hamlin for several years now. And this fall, their home blessed them again when they hosted their daughter’s wedding here, on the shore of this beautiful lake.

ELIZABETH EDWARDS IS SENIOR EDITOR OF NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE. LISSA@TRAVERSEMAGAZINE.COM

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Build beautiful,

BUILD SMART

Get a smoother, sleeker custom build with Preston Feather on your building team.

resources Architect Kendra C. Thompson Architects, P.C. kendrathompson-architects.com Builder Curtis Construction 231.645.8024 Fireplace Stone The Concrete Service theconcreteservice.com Flooring Harbor Flooring of Ludington 231.845.7149 Countertops Saxton Design LLC saxton-design.com Windows Pella pella.com Landscaping Swidorski Brothers Excavating LLC swidbros.com

Let’s talk!

Visit our showrooms or call 800-968-2501.

Tile Surfaces by TileCraft tilecrafttc.com

BUILDING CENTERS & DESIGN SHOWROOMS PETOSKEY | HARBOR SPRINGS | GAYLORD | TRAVERSE CITY

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We want to be a really good neighborhood restaurant.

That’s our highest aspiration.

Yes, we want to serve elevated food and offer a nice wine list, but please wear jeans.

GOURMET DINNERS TO GO P. 50 —MODERN BIRD CHEF-OWNER ANDY ELLIOTT NEW IN TOWN: MODERN BIRD P. 51 FRESHWATER FISH FOR THE HOLIDAYS P. 52 THE SNOWBIRD SPRITZ P. 54 NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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T he Cu l i nary North Grab & Go

Pear, prosciutto and Gruyère tart

SNOW DAY SUPPER Explore wintry woods, then grab a hearty gourmet meal (think beef bourguignon and pheasant pot pie) on the way home.

photo by Dave Weidner

by CARLY SIMPSON

GRAB

GO

6453 Western Ave., Glen Arbor

6096 S. Wheeler Rd., Maple City

Julie Zapoli and Liz Erdmann keep their market well stocked with lush grab-and-go meals like French onion soup, chicken enchiladas and ham and French brie sandwiches. The shop also carries an exquisitely curated selection of foodie gifts and hardto-find grocery items. Zapoli and Erdmann have made it a priority to sell products made by socially conscious and small family businesses. Two favorites: handcrafted chai courtesy of a Nepalese sherpa and soup mixes from the Women’s Bean Project, which hires women who are chronically unemployed and offers them additional support such as life skills classes and health exams. innandtrailgourmet.com

Palmer Woods, a 1,075-acre property owned by the Leelanau Conservancy, “is always magical and quiet,” Zapoli says. Because of the property’s protected forest and deep valley, snow conditions here are often better than other areas where high winds can sweep paths clear. Another bonus, the Friends of Sleeping Bear Dunes regularly groom the trails. Currently, there are 10 miles dedicated to hiking, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing, and more are being planned. leelanauconservancy.org

Inn and Trail Gourmet

50

Palmer Woods Forest Reserve

Bonus Content on MyNorth.com Snowshoe Sleeping Bear Dunes this winter— it’s a secret world. link.mynorth.com/snowysaunter

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T he Cu l i nary North Served

D I N I N G OUT

KEEPING IT CASUAL

by CARLY SIMPSON

At Modern Bird, fine dining is reimagined one dollop of ranch butter at a time.

Chef-Owners Emily Stewart and Andy Elliott

photos by Dave Weidner

M

odern bird is the culmination of a decade-long dream shared by ChefOwners Andy Elliott and Emily Stewart.

The couple cut their chops in Chicago, working together at Michelin-starred Boka before Andy went on to GT Fish & Oyster and Ria; Emily to Blackbird and Bang Bang Pie. But they always knew when the time came to open their own place, it would be in Traverse City.

The couple, with five-weekold son Daniel in tow, spread their wings at the Sara Hardy Farmers Market in 2019, earning a loyal following for Em’s pastries—malted sticky buns, golden scones, flaky pop-tarts.

Today, her pies are a staple on Modern Bird’s dessert menu (that decadent key lime will be back in the summer, promise).

“Our highest aspiration is to be a really good neighborhood restaurant,” Andy says.

On the seasonal supper menu this translates to elevated but

approachable dishes: Earl Grey–brined fried chicken, venison loins atop pureed potatoes and plump loaves of cheese bread with a pillowy tear-apart center. And then there’s the freshly whipped ranch butter. “It’s our little ode to the Midwest,” Emily laughs. And it does us proud.

Housed in an 1890s building that was once a pharmacy, the restaurant’s towering street-side windows flood the space in natural light, revealing the original brick wall and tin ceiling. The open kitchen and four counter seats alongside it are a favorite, treating guests to views of their meals being made.

Also special, toy dinosaurs roaming windowsills and a blue car filling a small hole in the wall—son Daniel is an influential part of day-to-day operations.

What’s Cooking: Gift cards are available and make fabulous holiday gifts; winter wine dinners, a gorgeous upstairs event space, brunch and lunch coming soon.

Modern Bird 541 W. Front St., Traverse City modernbirdtc.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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T he Cu l i nary North On the Table

DINING IN

FEAST OF SEVERAL FISHES

by STACEY BRUGEMAN

Celebrate the season, and our proximity to the abundance of the Great Lakes.

A

ll right, feel him pulling?” the captain asked. “Then you reel when he stops,” he explained. Three minutes later the shimmering giant crested the water and the coaching intensified. “Reel! Reel, bud!” the captain instructed. “That’s a big boy,” my husband declared, “Hold on to that, James!” This summer, as a birthday present, we got our sons a fishing charter on Lake Michigan. We booked a trip out of Leland, woke before daybreak and climbed aboard Captain Wes Smith’s “Pier Pressure,” speechless and still dreaming. We were maybe a mile off Whaleback as the sun started to turn the horizon blush, then orange, then blue. “Happy birthday, bud,” Captain Wes said as he worked with James to lower that first lake trout into the cooler. “Look at the size of that thing, dude.” By 10:15 a.m. we were back on the docks at Fishtown, the massive 100-quart cooler so full of fish that it would hardly close. We hauled it to Carlson’s, who will 52

clean your catch. The staff there was still tittering about a record-breaking king salmon haul the day before. A woman came flying through the door asking for perch. Someone else wanted smoked whitefish. Standing there in line with a bathing suit on under my clothes, I thought about Christmas.

Specifically, Christmas Eve. In many countries, Christmas Eve is the main holiday meal, and often, it includes fish. One of the most elaborate Christmas Eve menus I know is the Italian-American tradition of a Feast of Seven Fishes. For this legendary meal, cooks cover an entire table with seven different fish dishes—everything from handheld prawns and oysters to family recipes for baccalà and bottarga. In this neck of the woods, where Christmas Eve is often a supporting actor to the main meal on the 25th, I suggest a simpler approach.

For those of us within striking distance of a Great Lake, why not marry several freshwater fishes—lake trout, perch, walleye, whitefish—in the same bowl for an elegant one-pot supper that is laced with fresh fennel, saffron, white wine and other flavors of the Mediterranean? Whether you are still working your way through a chest freezer of summer’s catch or you need to phone your favorite fishmonger, join me in celebrating our abundant freshwater coastline this season.

Stacey Brugeman is a 20-year food and beverage journalist.

Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Travel + Leisure, Saveure, Eater and on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

Dave Weidner is an editorial photographer and videographer based in Northern Michigan. Follow him on Instagram and Facebook @dzwphoto.

Sarah Peschel is a stylist and photographer with an appreciation for all things related to local agriculture, food and drink.

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Serves 8 4 Tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 small yellow onion, diced 1 diced fennel bulb, fibrous stalks repurposed and fronds reserved for garnish 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 pinches crushed red pepper flakes 1 pinch saffron 1, 6-ounce can tomato paste 1 ½ pounds tomatoes, grated against the coarse side of a box grater, skin discarded 1, 32-ounce carton of vegetable broth 1 cup dry Michigan riesling ¼ cup chopped parsley 8 sprigs of thyme, leaves removed and stems discarded 1 bay leaf 1 ½ pounds any mixture of lean freshwater fish such as perch, whitefish and walleye ½-pound piece of smoked freshwater fish such as whitefish or lake trout 1-pound fillet of fatty freshwater fish such as lake trout or salmon Zest and juice from 1 lemon, separated 1 Tablespoon anise liqueur such as Pernod or sambuca Sea salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Set a large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium heat and add 3 Tablespoons olive oil. Once the oil is hot but not yet smoking, add the onion and fennel and sauté until the onion is translucent and the fennel is soft, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic, crushed red pepper and saffron and cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant, about 30 seconds. Use a small spatula to scrape the tomato paste into the pot. Add the grated tomatoes, stock and wine and stir to combine, scraping all bits off the bottom of the pan. Bring liquid to a near boil and promptly reduce the heat to simmer.

Add the parsley, thyme leaves and bay leaf to the stew and partially cover, cooking it over low heat for 20 minutes until the flavors have melded, and it has reduced ever so slightly.

Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation

2. While the stew cooks, prepare the fish. Run your fingers over each piece of fish to feel for any remaining bones, using tweezers to remove them. Using a sharp knife, pull the lean fish such as perch, whitefish and walleye away from its skin, discarding. Cut the perch, whitefish and walleye into bite-sized pieces that will fit on a soup spoon.

Using a fork, gently flake apart the smoked fish into bite-sized pieces, discarding the skin. Leaving the fatty, flavorful skin intact, cut the laker or salmon into 8 equal-sized serving pieces and salt each piece to taste.

3. Place a large skillet over medium heat and add the remaining 1 Tablespoon of olive oil. Add the skin-on, serving-sized pieces of laker or salmon to the skillet, skin side down, and sear until the skin is golden brown and crispy, about 4 minutes. Use a fish spatula to flip each piece of fish, cooking again—undisturbed—until the flesh side easily separates from the pan without sticking, another 4 minutes depending on the thickness of each piece. While the salmon or laker cooks in the skillet, add the perch, whitefish and/or walleye to the pot of stew to poach it. Gently fold in the smoked fish, lemon juice and liqueur, and season the stew with salt and fresh ground pepper to taste. Cover and remove from the heat.

4. As soon as the 8 pieces of salmon or laker are cooked through, place each piece of fish in the center of a shallow pasta bowl, crispy skin side up.

Top each piece of fish with chopped fennel fronds and lemon zest. Ladle the stew into each bowl around the piece of laker or salmon, making sure each portion contains several different types of fish. Serve with crusty, toasted garlic bread. – S.B.

photos by Dave Weidner // styling by Sarah Peschel

Freshwater Fish Stew

Publication Title: Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine.

2. Publication Number: 10713719. 3. Filing Date: 9/22/22. 4.

Issue Frequency: monthly. 5. Number of issues published annually: 12. 6. Annual subscription price: $29.95. 7. Complete mailing address of known office of publication (not printer): 415 Cass St., Traverse City, Grand Traverse County, MI 49684. Contact Person: Erin Lutke Telephone: 231941-5976. 8. Complete mailing address of headquarters or general business office of publisher (not printer): same 9.

Full names and complete mailing addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Michael Wnek, same as above. Editor: Cara McDonald, same as above. 10. Owner: Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan, 1 Broadcast Way, Cadillac MI 49601. 11. Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders owning or holding 1% or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other securities: none. 12. Tax Status has not changed during preceding 12 months. 13. Publication Title: Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: 09/22.

15. Extent and nature of circulation, Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: a. Total number of copies (net press run): 14562. b. Paid circulation: (1) mailed outsidecounty paid subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541. (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof copies and exchange copies): 11969. (2) Mailed in-county paid subscriptions stated on Form 3541 (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof copies and exchange copies):150. (3) Paid distribution outside the mails including sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales, and other paid distribution outside USPS: 2453. (4) Paid distribution by other classes of mail through the USPS: 0. c. Total paid distribution [sum of 15b.

(1), (2), (3), and (4)]:14,572. d. Free or nominal rate distribution (by mail and outside the mail) (1) Outside-County copies included on PS Form 3541: 0. (2) In-County copies included on PS Form 3541: 0. (3) Copies mailed at other classes through the USPS: 0. (4) Free or nominal rate distribution outside the mail (carriers and other means): 0. e. Total free or nominal rate distribution (sum of 15d (1), (2), (3) and (4)): 0. f. Total distribution (sum of 15c and 15e): 14,572. g. Copies not distributed: 0. h. Total (sum of 15f and g): 14,572. i. Percent paid (15c/15f x 100): 100%. No. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: a. Total number of copies (net press run):14,183. b. Paid circulation: (1) Mailed outsidecounty paid subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541. (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof and exchange copies): 11891. (2) Mailed in-county paid subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541 (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof and exchange copies): 150. (3) Paid distribution outside the mails including sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales, and other paid distribution outside USPS: 2142. (4) Paid distribution by other classes of mail through the USPS: 0. c. Total paid distribution [sum of 15b. (1), (2), (3), and (4)]:14183. d. Free or nominal rate distribution (by mail and outside the mail) (1) Free or nominal rate outside-county copies included on PS Form 3541: 0. (2) Free or nominal rate in-county copies included on PS Form 3541: 0. (3) Free or nominal rate copies mailed at other classes through the USPS: 0. (4) Free or nominal rate distribution outside the mail (carriers or other means): 0. e. Total free or nominal rate distribution (sum of 15d (1), (2), (3) and (4): 0. f. Total distribution (sum of 15c and 15e):14,183. g. Copies not distributed: 0. h. Total (sum of 15f and g): 14183. i. Percent paid (15c/15f x 100): 100%. 16. Electronic Copy Circulation, Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months. a. Paid Electronic Copies:676. b. Total Paid Print Copies (Line 15c) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a) 14859 c. Total Print Distribution (Line 15f) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a) 14859. d. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies) (16b divided by 16c X 100) 100%. I Certify that 50% of all my distributed copies (electronic and print) are paid above a nominal price. Yes. 17. Publication of Statement of Ownership will be printed in the 12/22 issue of this publication. 18. Signature and Title of Editor, Publisher, Business Manager, or Owner: Michael Wnek, President. Date: 9/22/22. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties).

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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T he Cu l i nary North Last Call

W

hile all the bottlings from Baia—a Northport wine label from power couple Michael “Chet” Chetcuti and Kyle Evans—are worth seeking out, I especially love pouring their Lambrusco. Although this slightly effervescent wine style originally hails from the Emilia-Romagna region of Northern Italy and is historically made with a grape of the same name, Chetcuti and Evans make their “Lambo” with 100 percent Marquette—a coldclimate grape that is a descendant of pinot noir. For someone whose go-to restaurant order is either a glass of bubbly or a glass of pinot, Leelanau County’s Lambo checks both boxes.

While most people simply sip Lambrusco “as is,” I’m seeing the Italian sparkler in cocktails more often— where it lends a fizzy float to drinks.

To wit, when Detroit barman Dave Kwiatkowski purchased Northport’s Garage Bar-B-Q last summer, he brought the bestselling cocktail from Sugar House, his Corktown cocktail destination, north with him. In it, a combination of blanco tequila, raspberry syrup and freshly squeezed lime juice is topped with Lambrusco. When Kwiatkowski started serving this fan favorite at the Garage, located just a few miles from the vineyard where Baia grapes are grown, his team traded the Lambrusco they’d been using downstate for the locallyloved Lambo. It’s a swap he says made the cocktail even better. “It’s got a lot of fruit flavor but it’s not sweet at all,” Kwiatkowski says of Baia’s Lambo. “It really dries out.”

Inspired by a recipe from Rebekah Peppler, author of “Apéritif ” and “À Table,” I asked Chetcuti and Evans if they ever drink their Lambo as a spritz. “All the time,” Chet responded, before revealing his secret ingredient: a scant splash of pineapple juice. While traditional spritzes are generally thought of as a summertime thirst quencher for the pickleball set, Lambrusco helps winterize the classic. With notes of pomegranate and currants on the nose, the Baia Lambo is a natural fit for yuletide menus. Add a 54

WINTERIZED

by STACEY BRUGEMAN

A touch of amaro and lambrusco turn a summery spritz into a cool-weather classic. high-quality herbal amaro and a bar spoon of that pineapple juice and the drink takes on a round, warming complexity that might just one-up your granny’s fruitcake.

Stacey Brugeman is a 20-year food and beverage journalist.

Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Travel + Leisure, Saveur, Eater and on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

Dave Weidner is a local photographer for Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. Follow him on Instagram @dzwphoto.

Sarah Peschel is a stylist and photographer with an appreciation for all things related to local agriculture, food and drink.

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Snowbird Spritz Serves 1 1 ounce amaro, such as Nonino or Meletti

photos by Dave Weidner // styling by Sarah Peschel

3 ounces Baia Lambo or another Lambrusco 1 ounce club soda Bar spoon of pineapple juice Pineapple wheel, for garnish Cocktail cherry, for garnish Place ice cubes in a rocks glass.

Add amaro, Lambrusco, club soda and pineapple juice—in that order.

Take a page from the pineapple upside down cake and garnish with a pineapple wheel and a cherry and serve. —S.B.

IN THE PALM OF YOUR HAND

MyNorth.com/Subscribe NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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love of the land

get there

photo by Dave Weidner

PYATT LAKE Listen for the woodpeckers’ echo and watch for resting owls as you embark on this serene lakeside snowshoe hike, just 20 minutes north of Traverse City up Old Mission Peninsula. The 159-acre Pyatt Lake: The Bill Carls Nature Preserve features 1.5 miles of trail—including a universal access trail, newly opened in 2021. Along the pathway, you’ll find three boardwalks, one of which leads to a scenic overlook along the edge of the lake. Tip: After your hike, head to neighboring Tabone Vineyards and warm up with a glass of estate riesling. -A.J.

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CRYSTAL READY?

“ONE OF THE BEST SKI RESORTS” U.S. NEWS & WORLD REPORT Explore 59 trails, perfect for skiers and boarders of all experience levels. Also, enjoy the Crystal Spa, ice skating, Michigan Legacy Art Park, and more. Spend the day or stay the night. Reserve your lodging and winter activities at CrystalMountain.com.

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Ad Number:

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11/7/22 9:50 AM

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11/7/22 9:50 AM