Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine Dec 2020

VISIT CHRISTMAS TREE FARMS + SMALL-TOWN TOY STORES // LUSCIOUS HOT CHOCOLATE A TWIST ON THE CLASSIC CINNAMON ROLL AT ROUNDS

INSIDE: NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE THE BEST OF IN-HOME BARS

DASHING THROUGH THE SNOW MAGICAL SLEIGH RIDES & COZY GETAWAYS

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HIKE TO FROZEN WATERFALLS A MAGNIFICENT U.P. ADVENTURE

SAVOR HANDMADE CHOCOLATES 5 CHOCOLATIERS SHARE DECADENT CREATIONS

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This holiday season we want to express gratitude for our clients.

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Contents december | features

Discover more about Up North, people, places, food and events.

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22 | DASHING THROUGH THE SNOW Meet the folks—and the horses—that turn a winter’s sleigh ride into an unforgettable memory. Plus, a roundup of the greatest sleigh rides across the North.

26 | LUSCIOUS, LOCAL HANDMADE CHOCOLATES Indulge in the decadent creations of five Northern Michigan chocolatiers this holiday season.

32 | HIKE TO FROZEN WATERFALLS Photographer Erik Olsen treks to sparkling, frozen waterfalls in Munising, documenting his breathtaking U.P. adventure along the way.

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contents | departments

41 7 | EDITOR’S NOTE 11 | UP NORTH Experience the magic of shopping small when you visit these downtown toy stores and Christmas tree farms.

15 | DECEMBER EVENTS Ring in the season with holiday parades, tree lightings, markets and soirées.

17 | TRAVEL Embrace the snowy season with a weekend stay at one of these hotels and lodges with warm-you-to-your-toes amenities.

19 | UP IN MICHIGAN Was Capone in Leelanau County?

Did Dillinger hide out on Bois Blanc Island? Author Robert Knapp sorts fact from fiction in “Gangsters Up North.”

21 | OUTDOORS Tighten your ice skates, breathe in the crisp air and glide across a frozen rink. Then pile into a cozy igloo at a local brewery for a cold one.

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41 | DINING We cheerily chase the North’s best cinnamon rolls, stopping at Rounds Restaurant for a timeless take on the classic breakfast staple.

45 | LOCAL TABLE These jolly snowmen cakes from Small Batch at the Cupola are equal parts frosting and fairy tale.

47 | DRINKS Delight in a steaming mug of locally crafted drinking chocolate from Grocer’s Daughter in Empire.

48 | LOVE OF THE LAND Thanks to a crew of dedicated volunteers, you can ski, snowshoe or bike the scenic Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail all winter long.

ON THE COVER Sleigh Ride at Cook Family Farm Photo by Ryan Tubbs FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

MyNorth.com

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11/9/20 11:28 AM

A MyNorth Media Publication VOLUME 40 • NUMBER 7

PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF

Deborah Wyatt Fellows

CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER

Michael Wnek

MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL AND CONTENT EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist Andrew VanDrie Kandace Chapple Kim Schneider Tim Tebeau Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr Rachel Watson Claire Houser

WEB DIRECTOR

Jen Berigan

DIRECTOR OF SALES SALES ACCOUNT COORDINATOR

Julie Parker Rachel Tramel

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Ann Gatrell Sarah Haase Chelsea Harland Meg Lau

MARKETING DIRECTOR

Erin Lutke

MARKETING COORDINATOR MYNORTH TICKETS CUSTOMER SUCCESS SPECIALIST OFFICE MANAGER BOOKKEEPER

Kara Jarvis

Emily Oakes Libby Stallman Kim Stewart

WHEN OUR CLIENTS SPEAK, WE LISTEN. It’s a simple but effective way of helping people reach their financial goals - and it’s a way of doing business that Raymond James has pioneered for more than 50 years. Make your voice count. Partner with one of our financial advisors and get guidance that’s in tune with your life. LIFE WELL PLANNED. Maggie Beeler, AAMS®, CRPC® Investment Portfolio Associate

Jeff K. Pasche, CFA® Senior Vice President, Investments Traverse City Complex Manager

Courtney Davis Client Service Associate

Susan Carlyon Senior Vice President, Investments ® Wealth Management Specialist James Spencer, ChFC®, AAMS® Associate Vice President, Investments

Jeff K. Pasche, CFA® Jim Stoops, AWMA , CRPC® Senior Vice First President, Investments Vice President, Investments Traverse City Complex Manager Jennifer Youker, CFP®, CRPC® Advisor Dennis J.Financial Brodeur Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Trevis E. Gillow Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Susan Carlyon First Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Keith Carlyon Senior Vice President, Investments

Vickie Hamilton Investment Portfolio Associate Financial Paraplanner Qualified Professional™

Paul M. Bonaccini

Heather Palmer Vice President, Investments Client Service Associate

Accredited Asset Management Specialist Shelley Stefanits Complex Administrator Manager Tyne Hyslop Financial Advisor Jennifer Youker, CFP®, CRPC® Financial Advisor Eric H. Palo Financial Advisor James Spencer, ChFC, AAMS Associate Vice President, Investments Robert Fenton Financial Advisor

Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 S Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 Subscriber Services Visit MyNorth.com/Account to renew your subscription, change your address, or review your account.

Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800-678-3416 between 8:30 am and 5 pm EST.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly

by Prism Publications Inc., 125 S Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684.

Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $24.95 for 12 issues.

Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2020, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

13818 S West13818 Bay Shore Traverse MI 49684 (231) 946-3650 S WestDr Bay• Shore Dr. •City, Traverse City, MI •49684 (231) 946-3650 • www.raymondjames.com/Traverse-City ©2015 Raymond James & Associates, Inc., member New York Stock Exchange/SIPC. Raymond James® is a registered trademark of Raymond James Financial, Inc. 15-BDMKT-1770 ME/CW 4/15 Chartered Retirement Plan SpecialistSM, AWMA®, Accredited Wealth Management AdvisorSM; CRPC®, Accredited Asset Management SpecialistSM and AAMS® are trademarks or registered service marks of the College for Financial Planning in the United States and/or other countries. Certified Financial Planner Board of Standards Inc. owns the certification marks Certified Financial Planner™ and CFP® in the U.S., which it awards to individuals who successfully complete CFP Board’s initial and ongoing certification requirements.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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Thank you God for the gift of years

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editor’s note

Home for the Holidays

BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

When I was a child, we spent every other Christmas at home. In the off years, Santa came to our house early, which never, ever felt right. Then my parents would load us at 4 a.m., sleepy and rumpled, into the station wagon where we’d snuggle like kittens on the foam pad in the back, and my dad would drive the 14 hours to his hometown in southern Illinois. I tried not to be too jealous when Santa actually came to my cousin’s homes on the real day.

My favorite Christmases were the occasional years my grandma, aunts and uncles would come and spend the night at our house. One year, the adults had a bit too much of my dad’s “Moose Milk,” and when I saw the photos later, my grandma was playing the piano and the rest of them were dancing in a conga line around the living roomdining room-kitchen circuit we loved to run as kids. It was a gift to see them all so happy and carefree, and a revelation that they were creating their own holiday memories as adults.

Our four kids got to spend Christmases at home and, lucky me, my sisters and parents were nearby and my brother often made the trip North.

We were especially lucky when my husband, Neal’s, parents came every few years. One year, Uncle Dave, my sister Pam’s husband, came to spend the night with us on Christmas Eve. Pam, a nurse-midwife, had drawn the straw to deliver Christmas babies, and Dave would have been alone. The kids were ages three to nine years, and it was a big deal to have Uncle Dave in our Christmas night and morning world.

Dave slid into each tradition, reading

the favorite Christmas books as the kids fell asleep all in one room, tucked under holiday flannel sheets. Because it was Uncle Dave, there were no pleas to see if Rudolph had eaten the treat or to peek downstairs. Once the kids fell asleep, Dave came down and helped put together every toy that needed assembling and fell into bed, as we did, at around 2:30. He was there for the traditional top-of-the-stairs photo and video, and the kids squealed with joy when they saw he had his own stocking. Our youngest, Olivia, had assured us that what she wanted most was a playmobile set, but once on Santa’s lap, she had promptly told him that what she wanted most in the world was a Santa suit. There were no child-sized Santa suits to be had, so we bought what we could—which happened to be a perfect fit for Uncle Dave, the quintessential Santa. To this day, that is one of our most memorable Christmases.

The lucky among us have these memories of gatherings of family and friends, greeting travelers or traveling yourself to celebrate as a family. The last thing any of us thought was that being together could make us sick. But now, the holidays approach in the time of COVID. Hundreds of thousands have lost a member of their celebrations who will not return. Those of us lucky enough to have been spared that loss have not gathered with family and friends in a carefree, hugs-all-around way in many months.

In the warm months, we made connections in very small groups outside; gathering for walks and socially distanced bonfires. Then our son, Ben,

told us he was going to propose to his girlfriend, Megan, and wanted to ask her on the boat, offshore from our house, returning for a small gathering of both families. A gathering. We planned an entirely outdoor time spent with the small, multi-generational group and hoped for warm weather on Labor Day weekend, knowing that Northern Michigan delivers whatever she pleases that time of year. The galeforce winds that preceded Labor Day weekend completely subsided, leaving a calm lake that sparkled so brilliantly in the late-afternoon light we had to shield our eyes as we watched from land. Another circle in our Northern Michigan lives closed as we watched our grown son pull up beaming with happiness and, I’m sure, relief, to the same dock he had leapt off with such abandon as a little boy. At one point, I came out of the house with some food and stopped to take in one set of grandparents, two sets of parents, all of Ben’s siblings, my sisters and, of course, Uncle Dave, gathered on the spot where we have so easily celebrated over the decades. The generations gathered made me miss my parents, both of whom made it into their late 90s watching the kids grow on this same land along the water. Had it happened a few years ago, they would have cherished the celebration of two families, and, of course, a few years ago none of us would have remarked at all upon the simple act of gathering.

That evening we left to have dinner at Megan’s parents’ house, a beloved place where their family has gathered and celebrated for five generations. 4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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editor’s note

2020/2021 COOKBOOK It was all something that would have been relished and cherished in any time, but in the time of COVID, the day seemed a small miracle.

Now, we’ve headed back indoors in Northern Michigan and the holidays are upon us. Families everywhere are asking each other how, or whether, to celebrate together. Neal and I have decided to welcome our kids home—testing required and then time spent in our small pod. I have to say, just the thought of it has me giddy with anticipation and it is still weeks away. A houseful. Imagine that. Leisurely dinners with candles burning over several hours; favorite breakfast casseroles, coffee cups everywhere and Mimosas in the morning, just because; family hikes; ringing bells for the Salvation Army on Christmas Eve day with our less than professional caroling; heading to bed as our grown kids and significant others still lounge like cats in the lights of the Christmas tree; all beds full.

It all sounds so normal, so expected. But, of course, it isn’t. This year’s gathering will surely go down alongside the conga line and listening to Uncle Dave’s quiet voice, reading about joy and giving in a room filled with tow-headed kids fighting sleep.

Whether each of us decides to gather with loved ones or chooses not to, this pandemic gives us each something of a gift: Calling upon memories we hold dear from when we gathered so easily, while teaching us to cherish each and every moment we are given, anew.

I wish each of you the peace and happiness found in your memories and in those you have yet to make. Be safe.

Be healthy. Find joy.

Our talented kitchen staff creates a week long menu with recipes from each cookbook.

December 7th - 13th, 2020: FALASTIN

by Sami Tamimi & Tara Wigley

January 4th - 10th, 2021: POK POK

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February 1st - 6th, 2021: CÚRATE

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February 28th - March 7th, 2021: TRAVERSE CITY RESTAURANT WEEK ENCORE April 5th - 11th, 2021: THE SOUL OF A NEW CUISINE

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May 3rd-8th, 2021: TU CASA MI CASA

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Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth.com. debwf@traversemagazine.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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Up North

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

The Magic of Shopping Small When Becky Lancaster purchased the iconic stone building that’s home to Stoney Cabin Toys in 2016, she planned to renovate and preserve the charm of the Elk Rapids shop.

What she didn’t plan was the joy she’d find in being a small-town toy retailer.

BY CARLY SIMPSON | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

Built in 1935, the stone building has been inhabited by various businesses, including two other toy stores over the years. Generations of local and seasonal families have walked through the front door in search of gifts and games for more than 25 years; children now accompanying their parents and grandparents who share fond memories. When Becky bought the shop, she initially didn’t intend to continue selling toys, but after listening to the community, she decided to preserve the joyful legacy, allowing herself and her customers to discover the store’s magic. 4

TOY STORES ACROSS THE NORTH Corner Toy Store, Frankfort thecornertoystore.com Brain Storm, Suttons Bay brainstormsb.com Toy Harbor, Traverse City facebook.com/toyharbor The Rocking Horse Toy Company, Petoskey & Harbor Springs, rockinghorsetoycompany.com

SHOP SMALL! Visit MyNorth.com/ToyStores for a list of local shops accross the North.

Traverse, Traverse, Northern Northern Michigan’s Michigan’s Magazine Magazine ||

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DEC DEC ’20 ’20

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up north | shopping small

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What are some of the perks of shopping at a small-town toy shop?

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What’s the holiday season like at Stoney Cabin?

I love to decorate for the seasons. I am a staunch observer of Thanksgiving, so I never decorate for Christmas or play holiday tunes until after the pumpkin pie! We always offer gift wrapping and shipping if needed. Depending on downtown activities this year, it may be a bit quieter. I always serve cookies from The Flour Pot Bakery in Elk Rapids for special occasions, and holiday sweaters are my personal decor to enhance the spirit.

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As an independent specialty toy shop, you offer a lot of items you can't find at a box store.

Because I’m so limited in space, I don’t carry large or licensed lines of toys like big box stores and Amazon do. I look for unique no-battery games and kid-powered toys. Each year, I strive to offer new selections for imaginative play; art, books, puzzles, engineeringstyle kits, summer fun and some silly stuff to balance the experience.

•

HOLLAND

Is there anything you want to share with our readers?

It’s going to be a difficult year ahead for all small retailers. I sincerely hope local businesses of all kinds can hang on, as our communities need us … and we need them.

MyNorth.com

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local businesses | up north

U-Cut Christmas Trees Few traditions bring as much joy as putting up a Christmas tree. Take it one step further in Northern Michigan and walk the woods at these U-Cut farms to find your holiday spirit.

BY CARLY SIMPSON | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

NICKELSON'S CHRISTMAS TREES | LUDINGTON At Nickelson’s, it’s not uncommon to meet people who’ve cut their tree here every year for 20–30 years. Established in 1956, the farm also sells festive Christmas signs made with barn wood and hosts wreath-making parties on weekends in November and December. Reservations are required for wreathmaking, and the popular event often sells out, but if you’re interested in setting up a weeknight party, send Charlotte Nickelson a message via Facebook. For more information, follow the farm on Facebook or call 231.843.8524.

LUTZ FARMS | KALEVA The Lutz family has been farming near a small village in Manistee County for 125 years—starting with cattle, then transitioning to fruits, vegetables and Christmas trees. Today, they operate two U-Cut farms—in Kaleva and Bear Lake—and three retail locations in the Detroit/Lansing area. The Lutzs also offer fresh wreaths—available for online purchase, too (shipping is free in the U.S.; send one as a gift!). CALVINLUTZFARMS.COM

DUTCHMAN TREE FARMS | MANTON After picking the perfect tree, kids head to the free zip line and petting zoo while the Dutchman team does the bailing, drilling and trimming. You’ll see Santa at the farm on select dates throughout the holiday season: Don’t miss a chance to tell him what you want for Christmas and take pictures.

(Note: Open Fridays and Saturdays, with mid-week visits by appointment.)

DUTCHMANTREEFARMS.COM

MARTELL’S NORTHWOODS TREE FARM | GAYLORD Keith Martell started planting trees at the farm with his dad when he was six years old. It turned into a passion, and he became a forester, conservationist and activist, serving on the board at HeadWaters Land Conservancy. For every tree that gets cut, Keith plants two more. His family-run farm also has a gift shop with wreaths, centerpieces, ornaments and more. FACEBOOK.COM/MARTELLSNORTHWOODSTREEFARM

A THRIVING REGION It’s impossible to celebrate our 40th anniversary at Traverse without also honoring the small businesses and nonprofit organizations that have supported our mission throughout the years and who make Northern Michigan such a special place to live and visit. Each month we’ll continue to share these important anniversaries in print, and you can find the full list at MyNorth.com/ BizAnniversaries. —A.J. 29 YEARS Cottonseed Apparel, Glen Arbor 28 YEARS Trisha Witty Fine Art, Harbor Springs Good Harbor Coffee & Bakery, Traverse City 26 YEARS Bayshore Resort, Traverse City Karen Youker Photography, Buckley Judy Levin, Coldwell Banker Schmidt Realtors, Suttons Bay Crystal Lake Adventure Sports, Frankfort, Beulah 25 YEARS Michigan Legacy Art Park, Thompsonville Surroundings, Manistee Crystal River Outfitters, Glen Arbor Garden Goods, Traverse City

SCHMUCKAL CHRISTMAS TREE FARMS | KINGSLEY Cut your tree (Douglas, Fraser, Canaan or Concolor firs) and they’ll shake it and bale it for easy hauling—you can even borrow a saw. Plan on spending the afternoon at Schmukal’s; they’ve also got free wagon rides, free hot chocolate and free popcorn balls to enjoy by a bonfire! (COVID-19 restrictions may affect this year's free activities.)

24 YEARS Taylor True Value Rental (Bishop Family), Petoskey Cup of the Day, Sault Ste. Marie Otsego County Sportsplex, Gaylord

O' CHRISTMAS TREE Find more farms, along with local markets offering pre-cut trees, at MyNorth.com/ChristmasTree

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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Please note, as these dates approach, some events may be modified, postponed or canceled to protect the safety of both event organizers and attendees. Check online or call ahead to confirm details. Throughout the year, visit MyNorth.com/Events for current community happenings.

TUE

1

NATIONAL DAY OF GIVING

TUE

CHARLEVOIX CIRCLE MARKET A festive shopping experience featuring more than 30 local artists and makers. Browse a curated selection of handmade gifts Nov. 19–Jan. 2. charlevoixcircle.org

1

THU

3

PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

S T!

TIX

FRI

4

#GIVINGTUESDAY

AN EVENING WITH ALBERT WOODFOX Woodfox's book "Solitary" is the extraordinary saga of a man who, despite spending four decades in solitary confinement for a crime he didn't commit, inspired fellow prisoners with his humanity. The free virtual Zoom event is hosted by Traverse City's National Writers Series. nationalwritersseries.org HOMETOWN CHRISTMAS St. Ignace’s annual holiday event includes a special parade with Santa, treats, crafts and tree lighting. stignace.com

FRI

FARMLAND 5K & FREE FOR ALL BIKE Traverse City Track Club has created a unique hybrid virtual race to avoid crowds during the pandemic. Run or bike the 12-mile course at a time that’s convenient for you Dec. 4–6. tctrackclub.com

FRI

JINGLE BOYNE Spend at least $10 at any Boyne Chamber Member Businesses Nov. 1–Dec. 11. Turn in your receipts to the Chamber office by Dec. 11. A minimum of 12 receipts is required to be eligible for the 12 Days of Christmas prize drawings held daily from December 11–22. boynechamber.com

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CADILLAC GARDEN CLUB HOLIDAY HOME TOUR Homes are decorated in the season’s finest. cadillacmichigan.com

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SHOP, DROP & JINGLE HOLIDAY SOIRÉE AND MARKET Join Twisted Fish Gallery in Elk Rapids for its fourth annual shopping celebration. twistedfishgallery.com

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VIRTUAL GLEN ARBOR HOLIDAY MARKETPLACE The 2020 Marketplace has gone virtual! Shop from 15+ artisans who will offer their goods online, available Nov. 7–Dec. 18. visitglenarbor.com

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what to do | travel HOTEL WALLOON

GIVE THE GIFT OF AN UP NORTH GETAWAY Experience Northern Michigan’s snowy season and surprise your loved one with a stay at one of these hotels and lodges with warm-you-to-your-toes amenities.

BY CARLY SIMPSON | PHOTO COURTESY OF HOTEL WALLOON

SNOWSHOE SLEEPING BEAR The Homestead, a family-friendly ski resort in the heart of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, has everything you need for a perfect winter getaway; breathtaking ski and snowboard runs with views of Lake Michigan, a serene spa and a stocked wine cellar at Nonna’s (one of several on-site eateries) where Chef John Piombo serves authentic Italian cuisine.

The Glen Arbor resort even has a fleet of cross-country skis and trails that connect the property to the national lakeshore, which, when winter comes, transforms into a wildly stunning snowscape. Miles of trails lace the lakeshore (find maps at nps. gov/slbe), but Pyramid Point (a 5-minute drive from the resort) is always a must-visit. The trailhead parking lot is seasonal, so leave your car about a half mile away next to the Leelanau Outdoor Center, then hike or snowshoe to the trailhead. From there, take the short 0.6-mile trail to a grand Lake Michigan overlook, or extend your adventure and explore the entire 2.7-mile loop. THEHOMESTEADRESORT.COM

WARM UP IN WINE COUNTRY Escape to Hotel Walloon, where the vintage elegance of the Hemingway era meets convenience and luxe. The Walloon Lake hotel sits in the center of the Petoskey Wine Region, which stretches from Central Lake north to Harbor Springs. Spend a weekend soaking up sweeping, snow-covered views, while you visit 14 distinct wineries with tasting rooms as unique as the cold-hardy grape varieties being grown in the northern vineyards. When you return to Hotel Walloon for the night, head outdoors for a sunset soak in the waterfront hot tub: Ask

at the desk, and staff will have the outdoor heaters ready so you’ll stay toasty even when getting out. After you’ve toweled off, head to the lobby bar, settle in by the massive fieldstone fireplace and enjoy complimentary hors d’oeuvres provided

by Walloon Lake Inn, followed by a dessert presentation.

Say ahhhhh. (Tip: Ask about to-go orders from Barrel Back restaurant. After you place your order, a hotel staff member will go next door to pick it up and bring it to your room, with plates.) PETOSKEY.WINE, HOTELWALLOON.COM

COZY UP IN THE NORTHERN WOODS Surround yourself with nature at one of these lodges.

Barothy Lodge in Walhalla (between Ludington and Baldwin) sits right on the Pere Marquette River, with easy access to miles of hiking, skiing and snowmobiling trails—grab a map from the office. Fifteen individual lodges are available to rent, ranging from a one-bedroom log cabin with a fireplace, to Barothy’s nine-and-a-half-bedroom Whitetail Lodge with a sauna and vaulted great room. BAROTHYLODGE.COM Farther north, at Crooked River Lodge in Alanson, guests are welcomed by a multi-story stone fireplace and antlered chandelier, and you’ll love the outdoor fire pit by the river and indoor pool room with a waterfall wall. Snowshoes are available to guests, or rent a snowmobile from County Wide Powersports, Indian River Sports Center or Burt Lake Marina.

CROOKEDRIVERLODGE.COM

Carly Simpson is the Digital & Content Editor at Traverse and editor of the wildly popular Daily Splash newsletter. Sign up free at MyNorth.com/Newsletters

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11/9/20 12:23 PM

essay | up in michigan

Gangsters Up North

BY ROBERT KNAPP | PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Was Capone in Leelanau County? Did Dillinger hide out on Bois Blanc Island? Did the Purple Gang dance until dawn at the Graceland Ballroom in Lupton? Using interviews, local newspaper accounts, land records and internet resources, Michigan author Robert Knapp carefully sorts truth from myth in “Gangsters Up North: Mobsters, Mafia, and Racketeers in Michigan’s Vacationlands.” The following are excerpts from Knapp’s historical non-fiction book.

Sandy beaches, sylvan lakes, meandering streams, quiet forests. Year after year, millions come by car, boat, and airplane to enjoy what Michigan’s northland has to offer. They have been coming for 150 years. The rich settle into their splendid “cottages” all along the Great Lakes. The not-so-rich enjoy more modest getaways that pepper the shores of virtually every lake and river, great, large, or small. Sun lovers crowd the beaches; hunters roam the woods; hikers and bikers trace the trails; vacationers fill the resorts, bars, and restaurants.

Magnificent sunsets, cool, soft mornings, lively nights—all offer a siren’s call.

At first, it was the steamships. Coming up from Chicago and Detroit, [vacationers] arrived on boats making stops all along the coasts of Lake Michigan and Lake Huron. By the 1880s, railroads had pushed north along the same shores.

Their tentacles reaching out to St. Louis, Indianapolis, even Cincinnati, they brought resorters within a long day’s travel of a northern paradise. Churchmen saw the wilderness as ideal for calm retreats and set up extensive, well-appointed camps.

Wealthy magnates bought up large swaths of land for their own private hunting preserves. Entrepreneurs built luxurious lodges and hotels and plastered newspapers for hundreds of miles around with advertisements of their amenities. Real estate speculators platted the shores of lakes and offered lots that even common laborers could afford.

Then the true revolution came. The automobile disrupted the fairly staid vacation industry. With tanks full of gasoline, a tire repair kit, and some knowledge of how to apply baling wire to a problem, early motorists forged north. At first, their narrow tires often meant their cars had to be dragged out of the mud or sand by a friendly farmer’s horse team.

Roads, restricted by law to those built by individual township planning and labor, proved abysmally inadequate for the newfangled contraptions that multiplied like rabbits, taking

over from horse and horse-drawn travel. By the 1920s, state and federal governments began to reckon seriously with the need for good roads. Trunk lines were laid out, numbering became regularized. Most of all, well designed and constructed roadbeds proliferated. Oiled gravel was a great improvement over sand and dirt; hard paving allowed travel at average speeds of forty-five or even fifty miles an hour. As highways U.S. 31 and 131 snaked north on the west side, U.S. 27 headed for the Straits through the middle of the state; U.S. 23 edged along Lake Huron, U.S. 2 cut through the Upper Peninsula east to west, and state highways populated the rural areas with another series of good roads. By the mid-1920s, automobile traffic to Michigan’s northern vacationlands supplied by far the most tourists and resorters. The automobile opened virtually the entire area to vacationers of all types and classes.

Gangsters Up North engaged mostly in racketeering sorts of criminal activity—gambling and bootlegging most of all. Violence was rare. I found only a little evidence of kidnapping or extortion. Indeed, many gangsters were not Up North to further any criminal ends at all. In some cases, they were born and/or raised there but conducted their criminal activity entirely outside of the area. In [other cases], they, like the thousands of resorters and hunters, just wanted recreation, rest, and relaxation among the lovely lakes and streams Up North.

The biggest interest was in gambling. Wealthy resorters came to relax and have fun drinking illegal booze and losing money at craps, roulette, and poker. The Colonial Club in Charlevoix, Club Manitou in Petoskey, the Club Ramona in Harbor Springs, and the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island were happy to oblige. Racketeer Jimmy Hayes from Toledo and Abe Bernstein of the Purple Gang invested their ill-gotten gains.

Cheboygan’s own Mert Wertheimer put in money from 4 Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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up in michigan | essay

Lake Michigan Bluff

his Detroit operations. Profits were high.

Life was good.

The booze had to come from somewhere. Hoodlums were on hand to supply it. Fast Chris-Crafts darted in and out of Canadian inlets, bringing liquor to thirsty vacationers. MiddleMLS 187 8456 men bought local still products to sell at wholesale rates to rumrunners. A nding Suzy Voltz Greenwood La Toledo gangster set up on the shores RealEstateOne.com (231) 651-9711 of Lake Michigan, trucked Canadian suzy.voltz@gmail.com 57 N. Michigan Ave • Beulah • 231-882-4449 whiskey from across the Detroit River, and shipped it out to thirsty Chicagoans. There was money to be made by locals and gangsters alike.

Big names, Public Enemies, turned up as well. Al Capone hid out near Lansing. Sault St. Marie’s John Hamilton hooked up with John Dillinger and both showed up in Michigan’s north. Frank Get a 1-year digital subscription for $9.95. “Killer� Burke murdered a policeman MyNorth.com/anywhere and fled, only to be hunted down and sent to Marquette’s state prison to enjoy the Upper Peninsula from behind bars.

And then there was the oil. Michigan’s boom in black gold came just as Prohibition was getting started.

Mobsters such as Purple Gang leaders cashed in by investing in exploration and exploitation of fields around Clare and West Branch. Competitions and jealousies came along with the gangsters. downtown suttons bay Murder came as well.

Michiganders look forward to time Up North. So did gangsters. Their stories add richness and texture to the his

tory of Michigan’s fabled vacationlands.

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Michigan area. During a 30-year career at the University of California, Berkeley, he published extensively on topics in ancient history, including “Invisible Romans� and “Dawn of Christianity.� In retirement, his interests turned also to the local history of Clare, Michigan, where he is restoring the log home built by his pioneering greatgrandfather. His previous books include “Smalltown Citizen Minion of the Mob—Sam Garfield’s Two Lives—The Purple Gang Meyer Lansky and Life in Clare Michigan� (2018), “Mystery Man— Gangsters, Oil, and Murder in Michigan� (2014) and “Clare, 1865-1940� (Arcadia Images of America series) (2012).

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11/6/20 9:33 AM

skating | outdoors HOP LOT BREWING CO. IGLOOS

LACE UP! Tighten your ice skates, breathe in the crisp air and glide across a frozen rink. Then pile into a cozy igloo for a cold one with your closest pals.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ANDREW VANDRIE

It’s easy to embrace winter in Suttons Bay, a village where locals and visitors can skate for hours at the outdoor ice rink and then warm up at a local craft brewery, complete with toasty igloos. Located at the corner of Lincoln and Broadway streets, Ice Rink Park is a quiet open space in summer and fall. Come winter, volunteers flood the area and groom the ice for skating and pick-up hockey games (nets are always on-site). A beautiful bonus: The park has peekaboo views of Grand Traverse Bay. When your cheeks are flushed with cold, unlace and head for Hop Lot Brewing Co. A snowball's throw away from the ice rink, Hop Lot offers a solid selection of seasonal beers and traditional-style ales (personal favorite is Uncle Green Guy, a citrusy session IPA), wine, cider and a food menu with rotating favorites like slow-smoked pork tacos with chipotle aioli.

Order food and a growler to-go or reserve a spot in one of the brewery’s outdoor igloos. These geodesic domes are adorned with lights and an electric heater, offering a snug den even on the coldest nights. (Visit Hop Lot’s website or Facebook page to make a reservation.) SUTTONSBAYPARKS. ORG; HOPLOTBREWING.COM

GEAR UP Since Northern Michigan is home to an enthusiastic bunch of outdoorloving folks, it’s likely a friend or relative will have a pair of skates you can borrow. But if you want to purchase a pair, peruse the new or used sections at Play It Again Sports in Traverse City. PLAYITAGAINSPORTS.COM Andrew VanDrie writes from Traverse City. vandrieand@gmail.com

OUTDOOR ICE RINKS Avalanche Mountain Preserve 1129 Wilson St., Boyne City Crystal Mountain, Barr Park 12500 Crystal Mountain Dr., Thompsonville Elk Rapids Veterans Memorial Park 410 River St., Elk Rapids F&M Park State Street, between Railroad Avenue and Hope Street, Traverse City The Homestead 1 Wood Ridge Rd., Glen Arbor Ice Rink Park 214 W. Broadway, Suttons Bay Lakeview Arena 401 E. Fair Ave., Marquette Mt. McSauba Recreational Area 09223 Mt. McSauba Rd., Charlevoix North James Street Plaza 112 N. James St., Ludington Petoskey Winter Sports Park 1100 Winter Park Ln., Petoskey Thirlby Field Parking Lot Corner of 14th and Pine Street, Traverse City Traverse Heights Rose Street, near Carver Street, Traverse City

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n a calendar-perfect day this past fall, I stand next to Susan Zenker and watch as she begins to whistle in the eight horses she owns with her husband, Craig Fitzhugh. The horses—most of them, anyhow—pull the wagons and sleighs at the couple’s Fantail Farm, set on 120 hardwood-covered acres in Benzie County. When they aren’t working, the free-range horses mill in and out of a magnificent century-old barn filled with hay on land owned by Zenker’s mother, where we are this morning, several miles away from Fantail Farm. Free-ranging, Zenker tells me between whistles, is much healthier for the horses than keeping them cooped up in stalls.

Zenker’s whistles float down a two-track that leads into the forest. But there is no sign of the horses. Then she calls, “C’mon you guys!” Mildly exasperated, she turns to me smiling and says, “It’s the middle of the morning—they are saying to each other, ‘What does she want? She might have a snack … ’ ” Sure enough, a few moments later, the horses emerge from the trees, a magnificent mass of muscle, waving manes and iridescent coats. Haylee, an American Brabant and the herd boss, leads the way, while Levi, a North American Spotted Draft, tries to pass her. Close behind are Haylee’s sister, Hannah, and half-brothers Finn, Fergus and Shaymus—all American Brabants. Chuckles, the sole Percheron, takes up the rear while tiny Roscoe, a pony horse (and the farm’s mascot), is lost somewhere in the milieu of his nearly 2,000-pound herd mates.

Zenker greets each horse joyfully—that emotion, coupled with well-earned pride at what she and Fitzhugh have accomplished, reverberates through Fantail Farm. A lifelong horsewoman, Zenker didn’t realize how much she loved driving—rather than riding—horses until she bought Levi, her first draft horse. She tumbled off the massive creature several times before heading to the Northwest Michigan Draft Horse and Mule Association for help. She soon found she “had a knack for driving,” and also a circle of like-minded friends and mentors who helped her learn to drive the huge horses.

Before she knew it, she was searching online for other draft horses and came across Haylee. Next came friends asking for sleigh rides … The couple’s property, that has been in Zenker’s family since her grandfather purchased it in the 1960s, was tailor-made for sleigh rides.

Zenker and Fitzhugh went to work, turning her grandfather’s old lumber mill into a barn—a place where gleaming halters and sleigh bells now hang from the wall—and opened for rides in 2015. They named their new business Fantail Farm, both for the way their horses’ tails fan out in the wind and because a fantail is a part of a freighter— Fitzhugh spends his summers working on the Great Lakes as a Merchant Marine.

The couple has accumulated sleighs along the way, including a couple of twoseat sleighs that Zenker says have turned into a custom-niche for the farm. “I found our first one for sale in Minnesota and we thought, ‘Why not drive out and buy it?’ ” Zenker says. “Along the way, we started to

wonder if it was a good decision … then my phone rang and the woman calling asked me if we had two-seater sleighs,” she says laughing.

Fantail’s fleet of sleighs also includes three conversion wagons that convert to sleighs and an old-fashioned bobsled. Last winter, Zenker and Fitzhugh outfitted the bobsled so they could safely take a young girl in a wheelchair for a ride. “We locked her in with hay bales and her father stood behind her and her mother in front. Every time I looked back she was just smiling away,” Zenker says.

No doubt, smiles are infectious at Fantail Farm, where the lyrics from “Jingle Bells,” seem to come alive: The proud, beautiful horses; old-fashioned sleigh; snowy, tree-lined trails; the jingle of sleigh-bells (including a set that Zenker’s grandfather, a logger who used horses, gave her) and, of course, hot cocoa at the end of the ride.

“Our goal is to help people make memories with this country tradition,” Zenker says. “It’s also about grandma and grandpa, who remember having a winter sleigh ride with their family when they were children.

They love passing on those memories to their grandkids.” Zenker pauses a moment and adds: “It really is about family time together in this day when there are so many other distractions.”

Elizabeth Edwards is the managing editor at Traverse Magazine. lissa@traversemagazine.com

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SLEIGH RIDE ROUND-UP ANTLER RIDGE SLEIGH RIDES//WILLIAMSBURG At Dave and Sandy Hoxsie’s Antler Ridge Farm, Percherons Dixie and Danny pull an old-fashioned sleigh out to the woods, where a bonfire and hot chocolate and marshmallows await. sleighridestc.com BOYNE MOUNTAIN//BOYNE FALLS On Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings throughout the winter, bundle up and settle in for a horse-drawn sleigh ride. Free to all resort guests. boynemountain.com COOK FAMILY FARM//GAYLORD Two teams of Belgian horses jingle their way through a winter wonderland. The ride ends at a cabin where hot chocolate and freshly baked cookies await. cookfamilyfarm.com CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN//THOMPSONVILLE Climb aboard a horse-drawn surrey and clippety-clop around the resort grounds past festive winter lights and views of the ski runs. The ride ends with hot chocolate beside a campfire. crystalmountain.com

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THUNDER BAY RESORT//HILLMAN Named a “Top 10 Event” by USA Today, the sleigh whisks you off to view elk and then enjoy a gourmet five-course dinner and wine tasting in a cozy log cabin. thunderbayresort.com

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*Due to COVID-19, there may be changes in service and schedules this winter.

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READY FOR THE SEASON:

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THUNDER BAY RESORT //

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FANTAIL FARM

FANTAIL FARM//BENZONIA Two-seater sleighs, bobsleds and wagon-style sleighs are pulled

by American Brabants and a Percheron along 1.9 miles of wooded trails. Finish up with hot cocoa for you and a pat for Roscoe the pony-horse mascot. fantailfarmllc.com

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LUSCIOUS . LOCAL .

HANDMADE CHOCOL ATES .

INDULGE IN THE SWEET CREATIONS OF FIVE NORTHERN MICHIGAN CHOCOLATIERS THIS HOLIDAY SEASON.

TEXT BY SARAH BENCE // PHOTOS BY MELISA MCKOLAY

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P

eople tend to associate the flavors of Northern Michigan with late summer’s tart cherries and cool white wines. I’m, however, partial to the chocolate. For me, the taste of dark, dense truffles is inextricable from the North’s sand dunes and turquoise water.

There is perhaps no better time to visit the region’s chocolate shops than at the holidays. As the temperature starts to plummet, you can find me ducking inside (preferably by a crackling fire) to sip on decadent drinking chocolates—laced with cinnamon, smoked chili and sweet hints of local maple syrup. Not only will you find scrumptious sweets to share with family and friends throughout Northern Michigan, but also the communities these shops call home offer visitors the quintessential small-town holiday experience—decked out downtown streets, twinkling trees and glowing storefronts tucked into idyllic frosty vistas.

Happily, I’ve been able to indulge my passion for handmade chocolates at a handful of family-run establishments, peppered throughout the region. You’ll fall in love with these flavors, too—if you know the right places to look.

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GROCER’S DAUGHTER SEA SALT HONEY CARAMELS

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GROCER’S DAUGHTER CHOCOLATE 11590 S. Lacore St. (M-22), Empire grocersdaughter.com Driving along M-22 into Empire, one of my favorite sights is not a magnificent natural wonder so prevalent in this area, but a wonder nonetheless. It’s the green building that houses Grocer’s Daughter, an artisan chocolate shop that’s graced the Northern Michigan scene since 2004.

I’ve been planning strategic road trip stops at Grocer’s Daughter for years—first to the former location, founded by Mimi Wheeler, and in recent years to the new M-22 location, now owned by Wheeler’s good friends Jody and DC Hayden (with backgrounds in coffee and videography, respectively).

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! t e e w s How A SAMPLE OF CROW & MOSS CHOCOLATE SELECTIONS

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Grocer’s Daughter is set apart from most other chocolateries in the country, thanks to their sourcing. “Our chocolate is sourced from Ecuador in a unique partnership with Jenny Samaniego from Conexión Chocolate,” says Jody. The direct trade relationship means Grocer’s Daughter can trace all of their chocolate, and pretty much every other ingredient, back to its source.

It also means more of the profit remains in the country of origin. “[The chocolate] is harvested, fermented, dried and sorted near the farm at the co-op level,” Jody explains. “Then it’s transported to the factory in Quito, where it’s sorted, roasted, winnowed and ground into 100 percent cocoa liquor.”

From there, the chocolate is shipped to Michigan in 26.4-pound boxes of discs.

Here, it’s unpackaged and the Grocer’s Daughter chocolatiers set to work—all the bonbons, honey caramels and confections are made by hand. Carefully, they take the cocoa-forward flavors of Ecuadorian chocolate and meld it with Michigan-sourced ingredients like honey, maple syrup, culinary lavender and sweet dried cherries.

Visitors can even watch the magic happen in the open-plan store.

WHAT TO ORDER: The bestsellers are sea salt honey caramels (made with local honey instead of sugar or corn syrup).

Jody also recommends a fudgesicle in the summer, or Dragon’s Breath drinking chocolate in colder weather. (Check out tips for preparing Grocer’s Daughter drinking chocolate in this month’s Drinks on page 47.)

THINGS TO DO NEARBY: This sweet downtown is quiet in the winter, but there’s still plenty to see. Spend time at The Secret Garden and The Misers’ Hoard (open Friday–Monday in December), grab lunch at one of several restaurants then strap into your snowshoes and head to Empire Bluff Trail.

The area’s panoramic views are beautiful in all seasons, but particularly stunning in winter. In nearby Glen Arbor, Crystal River Outfitters rents cross-country skis, snowshoes and fat bikes, and the team is happy to recommend more great trails in the area.

CROW & MOSS CHOCOLATE Petoskey—For online ordering and local retailers, visit crowandmoss.com Crow & Moss Chocolate is a little different from other Northern Michigan chocolateries—it operates as a 2,000-square-foot factory rather than a storefront. “Factory” is a rather clinical word, though, for what started out in a basement as one man’s labor of love. Mike Davies started Crow & Moss Chocolate factory production in 2019, but before that, he was a self-taught chocolatier, using his wife’s bright pink hairdryer to winnow cacao beans at home.

Now, Crow & Moss specializes in single-origin chocolate bars made with just two ingredients—cacao and organic cane sugar—and inclusion bars that add a unique third ingredient such as Bolivian rose salt, Brazilian Santos coffee or organic Earl Grey tea. Mike utilizes heirloom varieties of cacao, sourced through direct trade relationships with farms around the world.

His current beans come from Colombia, Dominican Republic, Honduras, Ecuador and India. What ties these farms together is their use of small-scale growing practices.

Once the raw cacao beans reach the factory in Petoskey, Mike’s hands-on job begins. “[The beans] are hand sorted and graded, roasted slowly, cracked and winnowed (the process of removing the outer shell from the cocoa beans), refined for four days, tempered into bars, cured and then packed off to shops across the country,” says Mike.

I personally get my Crow & Moss fix by scouring the aisles at Oryana Community Co-op in Traverse City for the colorful, geometric packaging. You can also find Crow & Moss’ chocolate bars at dozens of stockists around the country—notable Northern Michigan options include Toski Sands Market & Wine Shop in Petoskey, Huzza in Harbor Springs, Cellar 152 in Elk Rapids and of course, Crow & Moss’ online store.

WHAT TO ORDER: Bean-to-bar novices will particularly enjoy trying chocolate bars from different origins and discovering how remarkably different cacao can be.

THINGS TO DO NEARBY: Petoskey is a perfect home base for a Northern Michigan ski getaway. Test out the slopes at Nub’s Nob or Boyne Mountain. For those who prefer to stay warm inside, pair your chocolate with a tour of the Petoskey Wine Region—ice wine, anyone?—and holiday shopping.

Twinkling lights shine above downtown’s historic Gaslight District, welcoming you to local shops and restaurants.

DROST’S CHOCOLATES 3676 S. Straits Hwy., Indian River drostschocolates.com Drost’s Chocolates, flanked by its new and adorable ice cream hut, exudes oldfashioned charm—and the scent of simmering caramel and melted chocolate. The shop is family-owned by Julie and Craig Waldron and is one of the state’s few candy shops to still handmake their chocolates. In fact, the Waldrons, who are proud to use the more than 100-year-old Drost family chocolate recipe, claim that handmaking their chocolate is what gives it the signature silky texture.

It’s this texture, plus the mouthwatering sight of rows upon rows of truffles, chocolate-covered caramels, fresh fudge, buttercreams and 20-plus flavors of ice cream, that keep visitors like me turning out in droves. Whether you show up on a hot summer night (for the ice cream) or a chilly winter evening (for the truffles and fudge—which you can watch being made on the large marble slabs), Drost’s Chocolates will serve you both homemade chocolate and small-town charm.

WHAT TO ORDER: Homemade truffles or the classic chocolate-covered cherries.

THINGS TO DO NEARBY: You’ve floated and paddled rivers in the summer, but have you tried winter rafting? Big Bear Adventures offers guided 1.5-hour trips down the crystal-clear Sturgeon River (no experience necessary!). Afterward, head to Vivio’s for a hearty Italian meal in a cozy, rustic log cabin.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '20

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So dreamy!

KILWINS HANDCRAFTED TUTTLES

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45TH PARALLEL’S CANDY WORLD 102 S. Broadway, Suttons Bay 45thfudge.com Forget the wineries and get ready to gorge on Belgian chocolate fudge, tripledipped chocolate malt balls and ginormous chocolate-coated candy apples that easily feed 12–15 people and weigh a whopping 3–3.5 pounds. 45th Parallel’s Candy World is located along, you guessed it, Northern Michigan’s 45th parallel in Suttons Bay. I find it the perfect stop on a M-22 road trip, or a good way to refuel after visiting a couple of Leelanau’s wineries or cideries.

“My husband and I left the corporate world in 1997 to live a simpler life in Northern Michigan,” co-owner Bridgett Lambdin tells me. After pivoting from their careers in marketing and agronomy, Bridgett and Tim dove into the world of chocolate and have been producing handmade-from-scratch fudge for 20 years. So, you could say they know a bit about it. In fact, chocolate is a family affair. “I handmake all of our fudge and was taught by my mother and grandmother [who were chocolatiers],” Bridgett says. Her father was also in the chocolate business, working for Nestlé for 43 years.

When it comes to the candy shop’s crown jewel—45 flavors of fudge—rest assured that it’s as homemade as it comes.

Bridgett makes the fudge the way you would at home over the stove. The result is an incredibly smooth texture and depth of flavor that is (dare I say it) unparalleled. In the busy summer season, Bridgett produces about 375 pounds of fudge twice a week, and sometimes more for wholesalers. And while fudge isn’t technically chocolate (it can be flavored with other ingredients), you’ll definitely want to come here for the varieties made from Belgian-imported chocolate.

WHAT TO ORDER: Any flavor of fudge, but the Belgian Dark Caramel Sea Salt is a bestseller. The three-pound Unparalleled Apple is also a bucket list item: apple dipped in caramel twice, then vanilla fudge, then Belgian chocolate … and repeat.

THINGS TO DO NEARBY: Walk from 45th Parallel’s Candy World to merry boutiques and gift shops lining St. Joseph Street (M-22).

When you pass a charming, bright red telephone box, stop to take the requisite photo inside. Warm up at a downtown restaurant or coffee shop, then catch a show at The Bay Theatre. Or, if you’re up for an adventure, rent a fat tire bike from Suttons Bay Bikes and check out the Leelanau Trail, accessible at 4th Street.

KILWINS 129 E. Front St., Traverse City 316 Howard St., Petoskey 1050 Bay View Rd., Petoksey (tour location; check for availability) kilwins.com Kilwins is a recognizable name not just in Northern Michigan, where it was founded, but all around the country. For me, and many others, its name alone brings to mind quaint lakeside towns, childhood vacations and, most importantly, rows upon rows of beautiful chocolates in every shade. Kilwins’ history dates back to 1947 when Don and Katy Kilwin opened their first shop in Petoskey. Back then, it was a small confections and ice cream shop, but over the years, it’s expanded to more than 150 franchised businesses around the country.

One such business is the Kilwins in Traverse City, tucked away on Front Street just past the colorful Traverse City mural.

This location opened 45 years ago, as one of the earlier franchises of the original Kilwins. Stepping into the Traverse Kilwins store, I’m reliably met with the familiar ding of a bell and the instant, heady aroma of bubbling caramel, stewing peanut brittle and ganache. There’s usually a friendly aproned employee by the door—often bearing samples—and an open viewing area toward the worktops where the shop’s fudge is freshly made. The shop has an old-world Americana charm to it.

The Traverse Kilwins is currently owned

by Brian and Mary Daily, a local couple who took over the store 26 years ago. “Mary worked at Kilwins in high school and loved it,” Brian says. “After leaving the Air Force, we came home and the store was for sale, so we jumped on it. The rest is history!”

Brian describes their current operation as a “successful mom and pop shop” that keeps busy with their small crew making caramel apples and fudge in the store.

As for the chocolate itself, which sits row-upon-row in the glass cases along the store’s left-hand side, it’s handmade—but not all at the Traverse City location. “Fifty percent of product is made at [the Traverse City location], just the fancy chocolates are not made in-store,” says Brian. That means in addition to the fudge and caramel apples, the Dailys and their staff whip up caramel corn, chocolate clusters, dipped krispie treats, chocolate-covered strawberries, chocolate-coated pretzels and more.

Kilwins still makes all of its “Heritage” chocolate at the Kilwins Chocolate Kitchen (1050 Bay View Rd., Petoskey). The Heritage chocolate’s flavor profile is unique to Kilwins, with the milk chocolate carrying caramel tones, the dark chocolate with hints of licorice and the white chocolate deftly combining real chocolate with caramel and vanilla notes. This chocolate is used to create signature confections, like the Kilwins tuttles, truffles and chocolatecoated caramels, before being shipped to locations like the one in Traverse City.

WHAT TO ORDER: Try a tuttle—a handmade creation of nut (cashew, pecan or macadamia) and caramel-filled Heritage chocolate.

THINGS TO DO NEARBY: Front Street in Traverse City becomes a winter wonderland with its creative shops and holiday-themed window displays. After filling up on chocolate, take a stroll, popping into boutiques and eateries along the way. A few minutes from downtown, The Village at Grand Traverse Commons is truly a scene from a snow globe. Dine at local restaurants, visit oneof-a-kind shops in the Mercato and glide along cross-country ski trails at The Grand Traverse Commons Natural Area behind Building 50.

Sarah Bence is a freelance writer and occupational therapist based in Michigan. Follow her travel blog @endlessdistances on Instagram. // Melisa McKolay is an award-winning photographer specializing in lifestyle portraiture & wedding photojournalism. mckolayphoto.com

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M E M O R I A L F A L L SÂ There are a few examples of waterfalls in the U.P. that are simple to reach but have unparalleled beauty. Memorial Falls is the highlight, but if you plan a bit, three stunning pillars are available within a half-mile journey.

T I P S These falls are visited frequently in the warmer months, but there is no trail maintenance in the winter.

Snowshoes will make your travel fun and enjoyable. Show up after a fresh snowfall on a cold blue-sky day for a stunning contrast around the falls.

S A F E T Y These ice pillars have running rivers inside

them. Take care while viewing the falls up close and know that they are always slippery around their bases.

Make sure you know where rivers are flowing away from these pillars.

D I R E C T I O N S From downtown Munising, head north-

east on H-58 (Munising Avenue) for almost 2 miles. Turn right on Nestor Street. Follow the signs at the intersection of Nestor and Cleveland Street to park in a safe location and follow the trail heading west. Signage is available to help guide you on this short approach.

hike to frozen waterfalls A MAGNIFICENT WINTER ADVENTURE IN THE U.P.

TEXT + PHOTOS BY ERIK OLSEN

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M I N E R S F A L L S This is a gem of a waterfall in winter. Plan to be rewarded with sunshine filtering through tall maples and dappling snow-blanketed firs. Descending into the Miners Basin reveals a mix of frozen waterfall ice surrounded by a coating of frosty spray on every surface, forming very unique shapes and textures. Two ways in offer a hearty ski and snowshoe or a route cut shorter with the help of a snowmobile.

T I P S The best photos of this waterfall usually come

from the rim at one of the two overlooks. Be prepared for a slippery and often snowy trail—I recommend utilizing foot traction and good snowshoe flotation (how well you “float” or sink into the snow depends on factors such as your snowshoe size, your weight and the density of the snow).

S A F E T Y Do not try to drive to the summer parking

area for this waterfall! Miners Castle Road turns into a snowmobile trail in the winter past 672—it is very deep snow that fools many each year with its benign appearance. You will get stuck, and the tow bill is astronomical (and phone service spotty).

D I R E C T I O N S Plan to park on Miners Castle Road at

the intersection of 672. Ski or snowshoe almost 3 miles to reach the falls. If you are looking for an easier way in, rent a snowmobile and ride from the intersection to the parking area, leaving just a half-mile, human-powered trek to the rim.

— Erik Olsen Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '20

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TH E G R AN D P O RTAL P O I N T S E E P S This is the full experience—a more than 14-mile roundtrip slog of ups and downs, with deep snow guaranteed.

You will move slowly, and will likely be exhausted after completing this trip. But anyone who makes the trip will be rewarded with views of one of the best areas in the park in a season that most don’t ever get to experience.

You will be following some of the highest cliffs in the park—a perfect setting in this winter wonderland.

T I P S Cross-country skis seem to be the favorite mode

of travel here. Expect fresh, deep snowfall. This is a true backcountry experience, with no groomed trail. Take plenty of time to stop at all of the overlooks—the views and the ice formations are stunning and unique.

S A F E T Y It has to be said that this is a serious trip requir-

ing a healthy respect for winter conditions. If you have any doubts about making this trek, contact Downwind Sports about guided trips or tips. downwindsports.com/mainSite D I R E C T I O N S Park at the end of the plowed section

of Chapel Road. Most often, the plow stops 2 miles from the Chapel Basin parking lot. After making your way to the trailhead, you have three loop options to reach this section of the park.

— Erik Olsen

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SAND POINT The Munising area harbors a whole different look in the winter months, showing a brand new face as the snow and ice arrive. Picturesque sandstone cliffs are blanketed in wild ice formations for the majority of winter.

T I P S Access an array of frozen waterfalls by heading

east from the Sand Point parking area and down the Lakeshore Trail. Every creek and drainage produces a multitude of ice formations. The Lakeshore Trail is great to explore on a sunny winter day. (Expect a slippery but easy-to-follow trail.)

P A R K I N G There are multiple parking areas along

Sand Point Road near the Pictured Rocks Lakeshore Park Headquarters that will put you in the vicinity of the Lakeshore Trail. Head east along the trail to access an array of frozen waterfalls.

Erik Olsen is an active lifestyle, commercial and editorial photographer. He loves working in awe-inspiring environments with plenty of mental and physical challenges. Follow Erik’s adventures at erikolsenphoto.com.

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For the Way You Live Up North

Inside for the Winter!

WARM UP AT YOUR OWN COCKTAIL BAR NORTHERN MOOD Storybook Style

GLEN LAKE Modern Rustic TRAVERSE CITY Downtown Condo, Rethought COLLECTIONS Home Cocktail Bar Ideas for the Holidays

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Volume 25

For the way you live Up North

•

Number 6

DEC ‘20/JAN 2021

contents

34

26

08

06

features

departments

26 Downsized Space, Heightened Style

An interior designer kicks up the elegance factor in a downtown Traverse City condo.

05 Editor’s Note

A Night Out, At Home

34 The Architecture of View

The Glen Lake panorama takes center stage in a home with pared-down Scandinavian style.

06 Northern Mood

Storybook Style 08 Collections

Not Your Grandfather’s Cocktail Bar Click on Live Here > Home & Cottage

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A MyNorth Media Publication

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editor’s note

A Night Out, At Home As I write this, no one is exactly sure how the pandemic will shape our holiday season. But one thing is for certain: Staying home more than we are used to is going to be a choice many of us will make.

During the spring lockdown, we cooked, watched movies and gardened.

With gardening not an option in the winter, how about gathering around the home bar for the holidays? Even if it’s just you and your partner—or even just you!—the very act of mixing a drink in a cool, perfectly outfitted spot in your home is festive in and of itself.

To that end, our Collections department this month features six stellar examples of home bars, including a cocktail bar built right into a fireplace chimney. We also have combed some of the North’s best home elements stores to present five trendy bar accoutrements. If creating an entire home bar isn’t in the works this year, how about simply gifting yourself a top-ofthe-line cocktail shaker?

In this issue of Northern Home & Cottage, we also bring you stories about two homes (both entirely different) that make the idea of staying home oh-so-attractive.

Here’s wishing all of our readers a safe, healthy holiday season. Cheers to you with this wonderfully warming cocktail recipe from our friends at Iron Fish Distillery in Thompsonville.

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. // lissa@traversemagazine.com

Winter Light 2 ounces Iron Fish Distillery Michigan Woodland Gin 1

ounce lavender simple syrup

16 ounces Light of Day Organics Creamy Earl Grey Tea (brewed) 1

ounce vanilla almond milk

Lavender sugar for the rim

12/17 FRENCH HOLIDAY DELAS WINE DINNER PALETTE BISTRO, PETOSKEY

METHOD Wet the rim of a 20-ounce bar mug and swirl in lavender sugar to coat. Add gin, lavender syrup, brewed tea and almond milk. Stir to combine.

FOR THE LAVENDER SIMPLE SYRUP In a small saucepan, combine 1 tablespoon of dried lavender buds, 2 cups of sugar and 1 cup of water. Bring mixture to a boil until sugar completely dissolves. Allow syrup to cool and strain into mason jar.

FOR THE LAVENDER SUGAR With a mortar and pestle, crush 1 teaspoon dried lavender buds with 2 tablespoons of raw sugar.

MYNORTHTICKETS.COM 800.836.0717 125 PARK STREET TRAVERSE CITY, MI 49684

Northern Home & Cottage

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NORTHERN

MOOD Storybook Style CURATED BY GAIL SNABLE // PHOTOS BY DAVID WEIDNER

Winter is the perfect season to introduce your family to what is sure to become a children’s classic. —E.E. “There is a forest nearby. Eric & Eloise live there. Two unlikely friends. Eric is a hare and Eloise is a fox.” So begins the delightful story of “Eric & Eloise,” written and illustrated by Jessica Hiemstra.

There’s a sweet underlying lesson in the story about getting along with friends who don’t look like you. Add to that the whimsical illustrations of forest animals in a wintry Northwoods setting, and “Eric & Eloise” is a perfect goodnight story for Up North kids.

resources We first met Eric & Eloise at Old Spud Warehouse in Gaylord (oldspudwarehouse.com), where you’ll find the book ($19.99) as well as cast-aluminum wall mounts of the characters in the story, including, of course, Eric the hare ($189) and Eloise the fox ($109). The book and wall mounts are also available at SPUDS in Boyne City.

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not your grandfather’s home cocktail bar CURATED BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS

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James Yochum

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BAR

JAMES YOCHUM PHOTOGRAPHY

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NACHTMANN FINE BAVARIAN CRYSTAL

Clearly this bar deserves the finest in glassware—such as Nachtmann Fine Bavarian Crystal drink glasses and decanter (three-piece set, $120). Thanks to Shelley Doyen of The Ideal Kitchen in Manistee for this elegant recommendation. theidealkitchen.com

BAR

the chimney bar

01

Designer Gary Nance incorporated this bar into the side of the chimney of a home he designed on Walloon Lake. Nance made enough space for kitchen designer Jill Brecheisen to install 24-inchwide Sub-Zero refrigerator drawers with paneled fronts. A wood counter above the drawers became the drink staging area. “To complete the look, we added matching charcoal-colored vertical planking and matching shelves to create a practical but unique space,” says Brecheisen.

resources ARCHITECTURAL DESIGNER Gary Nance Design garynancedesign.com BUILDER Matthews Construction facebook.com/matthewsconstructiongc DESIGN Jill Brecheisen Kitchens by Design kitchensbydesignpetoskey.com

brick and beauty Northern Home & Cottage

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PHOENIX PHOTOGRAPHY

BAR

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CORKCICLE

CORKCICLE IMAGE HERE

Clearly this bar deserves a Whiskey Wedge by Corkcicle. This simple, innovative way to make a wedge of ice cools a glass of whiskey instead of diluting it. We found ours at Nifty Things in Traverse City ($17.99). niftythingsonline.com

BAR

the modern sophisticate bar Wear your heels and pearls when you sidle up to this inspired home bar created by Dawn Whyte of Petoskey Kitchens. Handsome sliding black-framed glass doors are a sexy prelude to the custom black concrete bar, two Thermador Wine Preservation Columns, high-end Galley Tap faucet and a tiled backsplash that imbues the space with a breath of Art Deco.

02

resources DESIGNER Dawn Whyte Petoskey Kitchens petoskeykitchens.com

custom concrete bar Northern Home & Cottage

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Northern Michigan

STYLE

TM

Now tour our design showrooms

VIRTUALLY

12/03 PLATH’S MEATS WINE DINNER CITY PARK GRILL, PETOSKEY

BUILDING CENTERS & DESIGN SHOWROOMS PETOSKEY | HARBOR SPRINGS | GAYLORD | TRAVERSE CITY

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MYNORTHTICKETS.COM 800.836.0717 125 PARK STREET TRAVERSE CITY, MI 49684

MyNorth.com

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BAR

KAY RAY PHOTOGRAPHY

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What could be more important in your home…?

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OXO

We think the fresh clean look of this stainless steel cocktail shaker and matching stainless ice bucket, both by OXO, is just right for this bar. We found them at Crystal Crate and Cargo, where Sally Berlin gives the pieces high marks for their design and functionality—including the fact that the top of the ice bucket is on a hinge that drops it to the side of the bucket when open … much easier to handle than trying to find a place to put the lid on a tight bar! Cocktail shaker ($29.99); ice bucket and tongs ($49.99). crystalcrate.com

BAR

beach bar

03

This full-functioning bar spans the interior wall of the home’s lower level, transforming the beach just outside the door into the ultimate hangout for friends and family. A design collaboration between Cedar Creek Interiors and Nowak Cabinets, the bar is comprised of rich walnut cabinetry, a dramatic cream-and-taupe quartzite bar top, seed glass upper cabinets, hand-cast pewter hardware and topnotch appliances, including wine fridge, ice maker, dishwasher and microwave. Stunning mercury glass pendants, three whitewashed oak-and-steel swivel stools and a 60-inch wall-mounted television

resources DESIGNER Kim Hooker Cedar Creek Interiors cedarcreekinteriors.com CABINETS Nowak Cabinets nowakcabinets.com

complete the space.

quartzite bar top Northern Home & Cottage

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231.946.1234 env-arch.com

231.946.1234 env-arch.com

en•vi•ron•ment noun

420 South Division Street • Traverse City 231.932.9700 • www.KitchenChoreography.net

Kitchen Choreography brings the design, you bring the wine.

New Construction • Remodel • Restoration Including Contract Management

231.946.1234 env-arch.com

orc h e st r at i ng you r v ision

• 1. the surroundings or conditions in which a person, animal, or plant lives or operates.

Your home bar. Your home. Your life.

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BAR

JACQUELINE SOUTHBY

04

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Photography by Beth Singer

“When done beautifully, Architecture will have the same power over the mind and spirit as music or poetry or any works of art, creating meaningful human experiences.”

TRILLIUM

TRILLIUMSHORE.com Custom Homes Custom Homes www.trilliumshore.com

Elk Rapids Northville 231.498.2500 248.515.4477 josephmoseyarchitecture.com

Your True North Michigan

by Team B Creative

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DELTA FAUCETS

Get that last little pool of red wine out of the bottom of your wine glasses and really get that growler clean with the Delta Glass Rinser.

Available from Infusion Kitchen & Bath Supply in Traverse City. infusionshowrooms.com

BAR

handsome dazzler

04

“We found this amazing countertop by Dekton called Trillium— its metallic tones and unique movement was the pivot point that began our color direction,” says kitchen designer Jill Brecheisen of this fabulous home bar. A warm cherry finish on the bar complements the countertop, as does a metallic penny tile backsplash, selected by Jennifer Keiser of The Quiet Moose. Wire mesh inserts in the Shaker-style cabinetry and cabinet hardware by Richelieu pull the look together. An undermount bar sink, Fisher & Paykel dishwasher drawer, Sub-Zero wine and beverage cooler and a waste and recycle bin round out this bar’s functional side.

resources KITCHEN DESIGNER Jill Brecheisen Kitchens by Design kitchensbydesignpetoskey.com BUILDER Harbor View Custom Builders harborviewcustombuilders.com INTERIOR DESIGNER Jennifer Keiser The Quiet Moose quietmoose.com

penny tile backsplash Northern Home & Cottage

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BAR

KITCHEN CHOREOGRAPHY

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FUNKY ROCK DESIGNS

We think these chunky, real-rock beverage dispensers by Funky Rock Designs pair well with this bar’s lodge look. Thanks to Darsi Lee of The Lake House in Charlevoix for the rec. Dispenser ($139); base ($49). thelakehousecharlevoix.com

BAR

northwoods bar

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A live-edge walnut bar sets a rustic, masculine feel for this cocktail bar in a lodge-style home on Torch Lake. Warm-toned Fusion Quartzite countertops complement walnut Symphony cabinetry (Kitchen Choreography’s in-house cabinetry line) that features 1-inch-thick, distressed inset doors. State-of-the-art appliances including Sub-Zero beverage, wine and freezer drawers make this bar more than just a handsome face.

resources DESIGNER Kitchen Choreography kitchenchoreography.net BUILDER Draper Construction aarondraperconstruction.com

rustic and masculine Northern Home & Cottage

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downsized space, heightened style AN INTERIOR DESIGNER REINVENTS THE IDEA OF HOME FOR HIS DREAM CLIENTS. TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS // PHOTOS BY DAVE SPECKMAN

or over three decades, Bill and Susie Janis have been well-known in the Traverse City area for their philanthropy and Susie’s many volunteer endeavors. While Bill is (and has been for nearly 50 years) the owner and president of Century, Inc., a Traverse Citybased manufacturing company, Susie is a past recipient of the Distinguished Service Award from the Traverse City Chamber of Commerce. For decades, the couple lived in a spacious home on Old Mission Peninsula. Although close to Traverse City, it also had a vineyard and water frontage on West Grand Traverse Bay. But most of all, it had room for all the lovely furnishings and art pieces the couple has collected throughout their 44-year marriage. It was the kind of place you’d want to live in forever.

As they watched many of their friends downsizing and moving into downtown Traverse City condominiums to be within walking distance of restaurants, shops, churches and cultural events, the Janises strongly began considering a move downtown themselves. The couple looked at several units and eventually purchased a 2,200-square-foot condo in Washington Place to replace their Old Mission home. “As hard as it was to leave our spacious home, we felt that it was the best decision for us in our retirement years,” Susie says.

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SISTERS STUDIO

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As the couple decided to remain at their Florida home during the stay-at-home order earlier this year, they turned to their longtime interior designer, Shane Inman of The Inman Company, to orchestrate this significant downsize, as well as the move. All told, the move, says Inman, “took two months and a full crew working around the clock donating, selling and organizing their possessions.”

“Had it not been for Shane we know we would still be packing,” Susie says with a laugh.

What Inman and Susie decided to keep of the Janis possessions defined the Asian-influenced décor style that they had collected for decades. Among the pieces were a black lacquered altar table, a free-standing black lacquer bar, stacking Asian trunks, assorted antique end tables and two swivel club chairs Inman had recovered in silk.

Even as he was moving the Janises out of their Old Mission home, Inman was overseeing a top-to-bottom renovation of the Washington Place condo. The Janises’ most fundamental request of Inman was to make their new home comfortable for them. However, Inman, who has worked extensively in Manhattan, also set out to make the condo a new standard for downtown living in Traverse City; one that reflects a beautiful bayside city learning to combine its Midwestern roots with an emerging upscale, urban environment.

The designer dove into the job with his signature gusto and acumen. The changes he oversaw in the condo were extensive and included making the unit aging-in-place friendly, moving the HVAC to provide more space for an office and a larger den, removing a wall to enlarge the laundry room, building-out the butler’s pantry, changing all the lighting, switching all the hardware and fixtures from silver to gold, creating a new fireplace and remodeling the entire master bedroom suite. Susie had given Inman an inspiration picture and from that, Inman went on to select all new custom draperies and flooring, including a custom-designed rug with black banding to echo the stacked dental/crown molding with a black accent that he had designed and installed throughout the unit.

In the kitchen, Inman had a stunning new backsplash made with high-relief, Asian-influenced marble tiles and new waterfall-end kitchen countertops installed.

“I was skeptical before we purchased the backsplash tile because I thought, ‘Oh, spaghetti sauce messes,’ but it wipes up beautifully,” Susie says.

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Using a tried-and-true urban apartment strategy, Inman solved the kitchen’s biggest design issue: Access to the double-ovens was in a back hallway, adjacent to the kitchen and across from the butler’s pantry. His solution? To unite the hallway with floor-to-ceiling and wall-to-wall paneling and moldings that coordinate with the kitchen.

Besides the couple’s original pieces, Inman selected new furniture, including sofas. Susie had recently purchased a stunning one-of-a-kind, fabricated brass-based dining room table. Inman had the tabletop resized and the black lacquered chairs upholstered in a velvet geometric gold-and-black pattern.

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THANK YOU! A BIG THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO PURCHASED TICKETS TO THE NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE 2020 VIRTUAL HOME TOURS. 100% OF THE PROCEEDS ARE GOING TO CHILD AND FAMILY SERVICES OF NORTHWEST MICHIGAN, OUR NON-PROFIT PARTNER.

MYNORTH.COM/TOUR2020 MyNorth Media is proud to support Child and Family Services each year AND there’s still time to participate in this year’s tour! The virtual tour is available for viewing through December.

Simply make a ticket donation to Child and Family Services and get access to this wonderful tour.

Child & Family Services o f No r t h w e s t e r n M i c h i g a n

To contribute a tax-deductible donation to CFS, please visit cfsnwmi.org/donate.

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Perhaps the biggest gift to the Janises was how Inman handled their art collection, a task that began with reframing and rematting some 50 paintings.

"I had asked him where he was going to place the art and he said, 'I am going to surprise you with that,’ ” Susie says. The big reveal was indeed stunning.

Inman had turned the entrance hallway into a gallery wall by stacking the largest gilded-framed pieces of artwork from top to bottom, complete with gold picture lighting and glass wall covering. “It’s an immediate focal point off the foyer that takes guests on a stunning tour of a lifelong dedication of collecting,” Inman says.

“The results overwhelmed us,” Bill and Susie say of the gallery wall, as well as the placement of art throughout the entire condo. “It’s a little crazy to have lived in a place for 32 years and not shed a tear when you leave,” Susie adds.

“However, having the pieces that are sentimental to us makes us feel like we are home.”

Susie, says Inman, shares the credit in how perfectly the renovation turned out: “Working together with Susie was a very rewarding process. She understands design and the concept of elegance—an interior designer’s dream client.”

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home and Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com

resources Downsized Space, Heightened Style, page 26

INTERIOR DESIGNER Shane Inman The Inman Company theinmancompany.com

AUDIO, VISUAL & SECURITY A Better Sound abettersoundmi.com

FLOORING Floor Covering Brokers floorcoveringbrokers.com

MOVING Morse Moving & Storage morsemoving.com

SHOWER WALL Twin Bay Glass twinbayglass.com

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the architecture of view A YOUNG DESIGNER OFFERS A LESSON IN MAKING THE VIEW CENTER STAGE IN A HOME OVERLOOKING GLEN LAKE. TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS // PHOTOS COURTESY OF NORTHERLY

rom the road, the eight wooded acres on a ridge above Glen Lake that have been in Joseph (JP) Machuta’s family since the 1960s look innocuous enough, marked only by a tree-shrouded driveway. But following the curve of the drive lands you at the top of a bluff with a jaw-dropping panorama of the Glen Lakes below. For years, the family kept a modest getaway on the land, slowly clearing the trees to open up the view. In his young adult years, JP worked summer jobs in the area and lived on the property, waking up every morning to one of the area’s most stellar views.

By the time JP’s family put the property up for sale, he and his husband, Adam Tooseley, were working in Chicago. The couple decided to purchase the property and build a summer home that they planned to eventually retire to. Although they say they aren’t creative (JP is in finance and Adam is an attorney), they sketched out an inspired concept for their new home over coffee in a Glen Arbor café based on a clean Scandinavian style—then began looking for a designer to refine it. It was a short search. At the time, they were renting a room at a local hotel across the street from the Glen Arbor Artisans gallery.

They loved the gallery, especially its peaked metal roof. When they asked the owner, Kristin Hurlin, who designed it, she was delighted to share that it was her son, Keenan May. JP and Adam contacted him in San Francisco, where he was living at the time, and May agreed to design their new home both remotely and while visiting family in Glen Arbor.

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Having been born and raised in Glen Arbor, May brought a deep consideration for the landscape to the project. “We spent a lot of time onsite designing with the trees, topography and the existing view corridor in mind,” he says. “We knew the focus of the home was the view, but second to that was properly nestling the home into the landscape around specific trees. Too many new houses in the Glen Lake area are simply key-holed into ridgelines. By strategically and sensitively placing this home, the home isn’t as visible from Glen Lake.”

May’s understanding of the setting is apparent at first sight. The structure, which rises to a 28-foot roof pitch, mimics the verticality of the surrounding pines. The roof and sides are clad in standing-seam black steel—both for ease of maintenance and to blend in with the shadowy forest. The facade is clad in Kebony, a natural wood product made from a species called Pinus radiata that, as May explains, “has been treated with a bio-liquid to permanently harden the cellular structure of the wood—essentially turning a beautiful softwood into a robust hardwood.” Virtually maintenance-free, the Kebony will weather to a silvery gray over time.

The sight line from the entry door leads directly across the great room and through a glass wall on the other side to reveal the spectacular Glen Lake view—that view being, as May says, “the purpose of the house.” The glass wall, he explains, is basically a diagram of what’s required to maximize the amount of glass when you are building out of wood [as opposed to a stronger material such as steel]. May used the structural section of the wall to house the black steel fireplace. “The rest is essentially glass with wood structure between,” he says. “It maximizes the biggest view possible.”

Nothing mars the view from the glass wall, not even a deck. “The deck furniture and railing tend to ruin the site line and view,” May explains. The solution? To place the deck off the side of the home, where it has its own view of Glen Lake.

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On the interior, pale white oak floors and white walls form a purposefully desaturated color palette so that nothing detracts from the view. The streamlined kitchen that lines the back wall features oiled-walnut custom cabinetry by Paul May. With its precise, panel-to-panel, book-matched grains, May’s woodwork is art in and of itself. Black Ann Sacks tile embossed with drips of gold and Cambria Blackpool countertops complete the surface elements. Both JP and Adam love to bake, so among their tools are Wolf M-Series ovens that offer a proofing function, and a Kitchen Aid blender stored in an appliance garage with a pop-up counter.

Two guest bedrooms (“We purposely put them in the back, where there is no view, because we want people hanging out in the great room,” Adam says), a guest bathroom and the laundry room round out the first floor. The loft houses both of their work spaces, a cozy reading nook (with a stellar view) and a master suite with a view across the loft and through the glass wall to Glen Lake.

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resources The Architecture of View, page 34 ARCHITECTURE Keenan May, Northerly keenan@northerly.house Instagram: @northerly.house BUILDER Mike Kelly Builders nkbuilder1@hotmail.com

May purposely used cohesive materials throughout the home so that the small, simple spaces flow to give the home a light, airy feel. To that streamlined end, the showers are both curbless with hidden sloped drains, and all the fixtures are wall-mounted and centered perfectly against their tile backdrop. “Grout lines as an afterthought are one of my worst enemies, so making sure that the fixtures land exactly square is very important to me,” says May, who was able to oversee the installation of those and other details since he relocated with his family back to Glen Arbor as the construction was wrapping up.

Since the pandemic began, JP and Adam have been able to work remotely— enjoying what was to be their summer home until they retired, year-round. In the evening, they relax in their great room and witness the fiery sunsets that occur across their unobstructed Glen Lake view from October through March.

Life tucked away over Glen Lake is, indeed, good.

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home and Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com

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Dining RESTAURANT GUIDE | LOCAL TABLE | DRINKS

TEXT BY ALLISON JARRELL | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

A Twist on a Classic

Rounds Restaurant offers a timeless take on a sweet breakfast staple.

Frosty winter mornings are made for savoring sweet breakfast treats, like the warm, gooey cinnamon rolls at Rounds Restaurant in Traverse City.

Rounds is known far and wide for their golden, freshly baked rolls, which they grill and split in half before serving. Their decadent cinnamon rolls feature raisins sprinkled throughout, a warm caramel topping and a dusting of powdered sugar. Cozy up with a cup of joe in one of their booths to top off the experience.

Some things never change...

They say if you sit at the counter of Rounds long enough, you get younger. That’s because on the wall of the restaurant is a backward clock: The hands turn counterclockwise, tick tick ticking back in time. It’s been there since the early ‘80s when a longtime server, Rachel, found it at a garage sale. That clock is appropriate, too, because Rounds is the kind of place that seems to have turned back the hands of time. Go grab a seat, order a cinnamon roll and experience the magic.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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dining | cinnamon rolls

ROUNDS RESTAURANT

Breakfast Bliss

Warm up with these cinnamon rolls from bakeries across the North!

CROOKED TREE BREADWORKS 2264 M-119, PETOSKEY | BREADWORKS.COM | 231.347.9574 Available only on Wednesdays, Crooked Tree Breadworks’ brioche cinnamon roll with spiced streusel topping and brown butter drizzle is a cult favorite. You can purchase a roll when the bakery opens at 8 a.m., or call in your order ahead of time to ensure you snag one before they sell out. These scrumptious cinnamon rolls freeze wonderfully, so order a few extra and treat yourself throughout the week.

BARB’S BAKERY 112 N. MILL ST., NORTHPORT | 231.386.5851 It’s common knowledge that Barb’s Bakery is the place to go in Northport to get your cinnamon fix. Not only does this beloved bakery offer the classic frosted cinnamon roll, but they’ve also perfected the cinnamon twist—a must-try crowd favorite. Grab a cup of coffee and enjoy your pastry of choice on one of the quaint benches out front. (And don’t forget your cash—Barb’s doesn’t accept credit cards.)

9 BEAN ROWS

COPS & DOUGHNUTS: JAY’S PRECINCT 1151 S. OTSEGO AVE., GAYLORD | COPSDOUGHNUTS.COM | 989.968.4488 Cops & Doughnuts offers patrons plenty of cinnamon bun options—from maple glazed and chocolate with nuts, to pecan and frosted with coconut. These bestselling buns, as well as the rest of their sweet offerings, are baked fresh daily and delivered to the Gaylord shop each morning from the Cops & Doughnuts headquarters in downtown Clare.

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BAY BREAD COMPANY 601 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY | BAYBREADCO.COM | 231.922.8022 If you’re craving that classic, massive cinnamon roll slathered in cream cheese frosting, look no further than Bay Bread Company. And while you’re there, check out their other tasty treats, including sticky buns, muffins and a wide array of scones. Pick up a latte and a bacon, egg and cheese sandwich to round out your brekkie experience.

PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

9000 E. DUCK LAKE RD., SUTTONS BAY | 9BEANROWS.COM | 231.271.6658 9 Bean Rows transforms its buttery, flaky croissants into a variety of both sweet and savory creations, including their popular cinnamon croissant—rolled up into a bun with ribbons of icing. If you want to make sure you score one, place a special order by phone or email (give the bakery at least two days’ advance notice).

MyNorth.com

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restaurant guide | dining

RESTAURANT GUIDE | WATER VIEW BLD | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER BAR | ALCOHOL SERVED $ | ENTRÉES INDER $10 $$ | $10-20 $$$ | ABOVE $20

PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/INDIAN RIVER Dutch Oven Café and Deli French toast and farmers omelet stratas, sandwiches on famous homemade bread. BL •

$ 7611 U.S. 31, ALANSON, 231.548.2231

Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on the Bay Harbor marina. B • $ 4165 MAIN STREET, BAY

HARBOR, 231.439.9989

Original Pancake House Crepes, waffles, pancakes, omelettes, egg specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$ 840 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.2770

NEW The Queens Head Wine pub serving wine, spirits and draft beer along with delectable pub fare. LD • BAR • $ 250 N. HURON ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.445.7101

Vintage Chophouse/ Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$ INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlifedecorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.9471

CROSS VILLAGE/HARBOR SPRINGS/ PELLSTON/PETOSKEY

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR

NEW Provisions Wine Lounge Sommelier-curated wines by

SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and an evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321 Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR • $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY,

231.881.9800

Roast & Toast Hip coffeehouse with daily house-made soups, bread, bakery items and salads. On-site coffee roasting.

A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. BLD • $ 309 E. LAKE

STREET, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767

Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick oven pizzeria. BL • $ 3393 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.1230 Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. LD • BAR • $ 1200 N. U.S. 31, PETOSKEY, 231. 347.9291

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with a big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771 Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with a wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201 Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. D • BAR • $$ 1549 GLENDALE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.2410

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900

Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and handrolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. LD • BAR $-$$$

Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American cuisine with global wine and craft cocktail bar. D • BAR • $$ 129 EAST BAY ST.,

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY,

CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES

04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

231.753.2221

The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes, home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. BL • $ 423 MICHIGAN ST., PETO-

SKEY, 231.347.5583

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients.

Seminole Pub. BLD • BAR • $–$$ 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR

SPRINGS, 231.526.3000

Chandler’s Brick-walled and -floored dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to savor this art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SY-

MONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. LD • $ 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250

Pelican's Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads and homemade desserts. D • BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.412.6032

the glass and bottle, classic cocktails, Michigan craft beer and small plates. LD • BAR • $$ 123 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.2151 Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.0049

Stiggs Brewery Hand-crafted brews, from-scratch food like whitefish cakes, bourbon chicken sandwich, top sirloin wagyu steak. LD • BAR $-$$ 112 S. PARK ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6100 Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cuisine at Shanty Creek Resort with a view of Lake Bellaire. Breakfast, lunch & dinner. The River Bistro—Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, Lunch, (spring-fall) Ivan’s Mountainside Gril—Schuss Village-Pub food. BLD • BAR 1 SHANTY CREEK RD. (M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD • BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contemporary American food with a focus on local ingredients. D • BAR • $$ 213 N BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301

Torch Riviera Pasta, seafood, steaks, ribs, pizza. D • BAR • $$ 12899 CHERRY AVE., RAPID CITY, 231.322.4100

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D

• BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999

CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/ EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH

Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. D L • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE ST.,

CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

The Cantina Tacos and tequila with indoor and outdoor seating. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 VAN PELT PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3612

Charlevoix Pizza Company Scratch-made dough, fresh ingredients, golden crust, prepared daily. Plus, cheesy bread and wings. LD • $-$$ 311 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6300 East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling technique in this specialty food and wine shop. D • $-$$$ 12853 U.S. 31 N., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300

BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/WALLOON Boyne City Taproom Craft beer, wood-fired pizzas, wraps, burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 220 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.459.4487 Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge—Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern— American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 Corner Bistro French-inspired small plates, classic cocktails, wine, beer, Sunday brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 102 N. BRIDGE ST.,

BELLAIRE, 231.350.7344

Friske Orchards Cafe Cheerful roadside restaurant features farm-fresh breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and a bakery. BL • $ 10743 U.S. 31 S., ATWOOD, 231.599.2604 Lake Street Pub American pub with outdoor patio and firepit, BYO mac ‘n’ cheese, cocktails, 26 beers on tap. LD • $

That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Grey Gables Inn Graceful, intimate, Victorian atmosphere across from the harbor. D • BAR • $–$$$ 308 BELVEDERE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.9261

Lake Charlevoix Brewing Co. Craft brewery with good eats—grilled cheese sammies, tacos, quesadillas and beef jerky. LD • BAR • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE PARK DR., CHARLEVOIX,

231.437.3220

Pigs Eatin’ Ribs Real smokehouse with mouthwatering BBQ. Weekend breakfast. BLD • $-$$ 1418 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7447

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E. JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food. LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827

202 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6031

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dining | restaurant guide Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with a massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel. LD •

BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

Boone Dock’s Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444 Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff. LD •

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA

Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers, hand-cut fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling in the winter. LD • BAR • $ 172

231.275.6401

INTERLOCHEN/KINGSLEY Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout and so much more. LD BAR • $-$$ 10586 US31, INTERLOCHEN,

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D • BAR

BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688

Torch Lake Cafe Inventive, ultra-fresh cuisine with sharable options like the seafood platter with black garlic butter. Or devour an elevated fried bologna sandwich with pickled green tomato and house Dijon all on your own... BLD • BAR • $-$$$

W BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869

Villager Pub ’50s atmosphere, whitefish, Mexican, ribs, sandwiches and pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHAR-

Fig's Sandwiches, breakfasts, salads homemade with local ingredients. Great selection of vegetarian dishes. BL • $$ 104

CHEN, 231.276.6979

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season.

Judson Market and Restaurant Newly re-branded market and restaurant offering house-made and local items. Glutenfree, vegetarian, full bar. BLD • BAR • $$ 211 E. MAIN ST., KINGSLEY,

• $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

4990 US31 N, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.599.1111

LEVOIX, 231.547.6925

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING/MANCELONA Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. LD • $ 147

RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901

Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in a wine bar on the Elk River. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9000

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better. BL • $$ 145 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively zydeco, jazz and blues. LD •

BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530

The Town Club of Elk Rapids After a renovation in 2019, this famous landmark has been rebuilt and is already being appreciated for its daily lunch specials and famous Prime Rib Thursdays. LD • BAR • $$ 133 RIVER STREET, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9914 Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting. Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3917 SOUTH OLD

27, GAYLORD, 989.732.9288

Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. LD • BAR 227 E MICHIGAN AVE.,

GRAYLING, 989.745.6388

Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches, pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU,

231.256.9912

W. MAIN ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.7720

Dilbert’s Soups, sandwiches, omelets and other home cooking served in a homey atmosphere. BLD • $ 11303 U.S. 31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.3005

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2784 M-137, INTERLO-

LD • BAR • $ 7144 N. M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923

231.263.8120

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MCFARLANE,

OLD MISSION PENINSULA

Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10844 E REVOLD RD., SUTTONS BAY,

PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

231.944.1297

The Homestead Nonna’s Restaurant—Classically inspired, contemporary Italian cuisine. D • BAR $$-$$$ Beppi’s Sports Bar—Hand-tossed pizzas, paninis and salads. D • BAR • $-$$ 1

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted onsite. LD • BAR • $$ 13512 OLD Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, locally sourced fare and craft cocktails. D THURSDAY,

FRIDAY & SATURDAY 5PM–9PM • BAR • $-$$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4222

Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials. LD • BAR • $$ 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY,

WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000

231.223.7280

Hop Lot Brewing Co. Family-friendly microbrewery with four-season patio and games serving ribs, tacos, wings and a s’more kit to top it all off. LD • BAR • $-$$ 658 S WEST-BAY SHORE

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY

DR., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4445

Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$

11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019 BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE,

Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace Amical and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch.

LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888

NEW Benedict A family-friendly restaurant offering breakfast and lunch sandwiches, pastries, salads, soups and more. BL • $ 405 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1000

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with fromscratch farmer food. and Michigan-crafted beers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads and tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E.

Spike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since 1933. LD • BAR $ 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113 Tap Room 32 Twenty handles of Michigan craft beers and a menu of modern brew-friendly vittles like truffle fries and Korean beef tacos. D • $$ 141 NORTH COURT AVE., GAYLORD,

231.334.3944

The Old Depot 1900s train depot features homestyle burgers, steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. BLD •

JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. BLD • $

North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR • $$

129 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. LD • BAR • $

420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

108 S. UNION, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast—all done well. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD.,

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST.,

989.748.8552

$$ 10826 M-32 E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115

Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. BLD • BAR • $$-$$$

216 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5524

Treetops Sylvan Resort Hunters Grille, & Sports Bar. Steak, burgers, ribs, pasta, signature pizza, chicken, fish and glutenfree selections. Featuring a selection of 100 Michigan craft beer, wines, fabulous martinis. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ WILKINSON RD., GAYLORD, 800.444.6711

Shirley’s Café An ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. BLD • $ 528 S. WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR • $ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch, including some gluten free dishes and pastries. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413 N. ST.

45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and lunch. BL • $-$$ 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza.

Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. BLD • BAR •

$-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927. Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the off-season. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081

44

115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700

MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6692

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST.,

The Good Bowl Fresh, authentic Vietnamese eatery. Donates $1 for every bowl to the charity of your choice. LD • BAR $-$$

SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

328 E FRONT ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662

The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, breakfast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers share the menu.

115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687

BLD • $ 110 E. NAGONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055

LEELANAU COUNTY

FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-$$$

Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. LD • BAR • $$ 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231.

334.3362

Wren Contemporary comfort food and a constantly changing menu to feature locally sourced ingredients. D • BAR • $$ 303 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.1175

The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads. BL • $

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. BL •

$ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437

Little G's Fusion Cuisine Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 531 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2713

Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR • $$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2793

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local table | dining Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, wellaged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelets, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. BLD • $ 124 CASS,

231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590

Pangea’s Pizza Pub Craft pies, creative toppings. LD • BAR $-$$ 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7632

O’ FROSTY! PHOTO BY MICHAEL POEHLMAN

Lauretta Reiss, a former shoe designer for Rocket Dog, is the owner and creative force behind Small Batch, an intimate bakery and restaurant in Harbor Springs. Her cozy eatery feels like home—each table set with stacks of books and a pair of reading glasses, and you really can taste Lauretta’s love for baking in each of her whimsical treats. She shares her warm, welcoming spirit with us in the form of a holiday recipe.

Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer.

LD • BAR • $$ 229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh, sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips Ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700 Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (including European Trappist ales) with your burger and lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4807

SNOWMAN CAKES DEVIL’S FOOD CAKE MAKES 12 SNOWMEN 2¼ cups cake flour

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRA-

¾ cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder

VERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

1

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. LD • BAR

½ teaspoon baking powder

• $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Sugar 2 Salt Traverse City's hot brunch spot serves up what is in season. B • $-$$ 1371 GRAY DR., SUITE 300, TRAVERSE CITY,

231.409.8382

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500 The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.929.090

Thirsty Fish Sports Grille Family-friendly sports bar with seafood, burgers, steaks, pasta and a 600-gallon fish tank.

Live music on the patio. LD • BAR • $-$$ 221 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1165

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST

teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon fine sea salt ¾ cup unsalted butter

at room temperature 2¼ cups sugar 3

large eggs at room temperature

1½ cups brewed coffee at room

temperature Equipment Note: You'll want to use a mini tiered cake pan to achieve the multi-layered snowmen.

Don’s Drive In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. LD • $ 2030 U.S. 31 N.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.1860

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends.

D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000

Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-can-eat cod. BLD • $ 1103 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

Reflect Bistro and Lounge at Cambria Suites Hotel Breakfast, dinner and Happy Hour 4-7 p.m. daily. BD • BAR • $-$$$

255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000

Smoke and Porter Public House An American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020

SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM MAKES 10 CUPS 2½ cups sugar 12 egg whites 2

pounds butter at room temperature

½ teaspoon pure vanilla

DIRECTIONS Devil’s Food Cake Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sift flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder and salt together in medium bowl. In a separate bowl, beat butter

for 1 minute and gradually beat in sugar.

Beat until light in color and texture, about 4 minutes. Beat in eggs, one at a time, and beat well after each addition. Reduce mixer speed and add flour mixture in thirds, alternating with the coffee. Pour batter into the mini tiered cake pan.

Bake until the cakes spring back and a toothpick comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes on wire rack.

Swiss Meringue Buttercream Combine sugar and egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer. Place bowl over saucepan filled with about 2 inches of water. Don't let the bottom of the egg whites bowl touch the water. Bring water to simmer. Whisk the sugar and egg whites constantly until mixture is hot and sugar is dissolved. Remove bowl from heat and whip mixture until stiff peaks form and meringue is cool. On low speed, add in butter a few tablespoons at a time.

Once butter has been incorporated, increase mixer speed to high and beat for 1 minute. Beat in vanilla.

Snowmen Assembly Make the 12 mini devil’s food cakes according to the recipe. Once the cakes are baked, let them cool slightly and carefully remove from the pan. Let them cool completely before assembly.

Slice the mini cakes in four layers, following the graduated tiers of the pan. Spoon or pipe buttercream between the layers and top with a snowman pick (Lauretta has found them in specialty shops like JoAnn’s, Hobby Lobby or Michaels. Mini tiered cake pans can likely be found in those shops, too).

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dining | restaurant guide Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an alpenhaus-style dining room. LD

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH

Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks. LD

231.534.8888

• BAR • $$ 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991 Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted wood-fired flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. LD • BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now at a new location. BAR • $ 225 E. 16 ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1239

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST Rough-hewn eatery affords a great Apache Trout Grill bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. LD • BAR • $$

13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Harrington’s By The Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • $$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960

Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., ST. 30, TRAVERSE

• BAR • $ 1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575

Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club–style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. LD • BAR • $$ 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5332

Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting. LD •

BAR • $ 523 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399 Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1100 28TH ST., MANISTEE,

231.723.8000

The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. D • $-$$ 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843

Dinghy’s Local favorite for 25 years with house-smoked meats including famous ribs, half-pound burger, Big BLT, award-winning Friday fish fry. LD • BAR • $$ 415 MAIN ST.,

CITY, 231.252.4648

FRANKFORT, 231.352.4702

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$ 717

The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and wood-fired pizzas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients. LD• BAR

RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

The Silver Swan Ethnic fare and killer desserts. LD • $ 13692 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203

Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. BLD • $ 1333 YELLOW DR.,

• $-$$ 318 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4121

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT,

231.352.4114

Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn. BLD

TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453

• $-$$$ 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY,

L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $-$$ 325 MAIN STREET, FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. LD • BAR $-$$ 515

231.929.8989

West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922

FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9136

North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the drawbridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with meats smoked daily and excellent craft beers on tap. LD • BAR $-$$ 86 WASHINGTON ST, MANISTEE, 231.299.1020

BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/THOMPSONVILLE Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Wood-paneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites. BLD • BAR • $-$$ M-115, THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000

Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken, pizza, soups, salads. LD • BAR • $ 14848 THOMPSON AVE., THOMPSONVILLE, 231.378.2554

Lucky Dog Bar and Grille Burgers, smoked wings, brats, sandwiches, craft beer, cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S. BENZIE

BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499

Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere.

Steaks, Italian, Mexican. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 10921 MAIN ST., HONOR,

Rock's Landing Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with ethnic influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. D • BAR $$ 1157 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST.,

FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Tavo and Tarrah Hernandez turned their food truck into a restaurant dream-come-true with ultra-fresh tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas. LD • BAR

• $-$$ 344 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4441

Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib pasta , whitefish, craft beer, regional wines. LD • BAR

• $-$$ 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751

T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for panini, mex and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. LD • BAR • $ 99 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174

231.227.1200

The Roadhouse Fresh Mex with a cool cantina atmosphere.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US 31), BENZONIA, 231.882.9631

Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers sandwiches. BLD • $-$$

245 S BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250

CADILLAC Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. BL • $ 304 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5461

46

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS! Go to MyNorth.com/Restaurants

Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation Publication Title: Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. 2. Publication Number: 10713719. 3. Filing Date: 10/13/2020. 4. Issue Frequency: monthly. 5. Number of issues published annually: 12. 6. Annual subscription price: $24.95. 7. Complete mailing address of known office of publication (not printer): 125 Park St, suite 155, Traverse City, Grand Traverse County, MI 49684. Contact Person: Erin Lutke Telephone: 231-941-5976. 8. Complete mailing address of headquarters or general business office of publisher (not printer): same. 9. Full names and complete mailing addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Deborah Wyatt Fellows, same as above. Editor: Deborah Wyatt Fellows, same as above. Managing Editor: Elizabeth Edwards, same as above. 10. Owner: Prism Publications, Inc, same as above, Deborah Wyatt Fellows, same as above. 11. Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders owning or holding 1% or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other securities: none.

12. Tax Status has not changed during preceding 12 months. 13. Publication Title: Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: 10/13/20. 15. Extent and nature of circulation, Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: a. Total number of copies (net press run): 15,916. b. Paid circulation: (1) mailed outside-county paid subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541. (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof copies and exchange copies): 12,649. (2) Mailed in-county paid subscriptions stated on Form 3541 (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof copies and exchange copies): 0. (3) Paid distribution outside the mails including sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales, and other paid distribution outside USPS: 3,267. (4) Paid distribution by other classes of mail through the USPS: 0. c. Total paid distribution [sum of 15b. (1), (2), (3), and (4)]: 15,916. d. Free or nominal rate distribution (by mail and outside the mail) (1) Outside-County copies included on PS Form 3541: 166. (2) In-County copies included on PS Form 3541: 0. (3) Copies mailed at other classes through the USPS: 0. (4) Free or nominal rate distribution outside the mail (carriers and other means): 0. e. Total free or nominal rate distribution (sum of 15d (1), (2), (3) and (4)): 166. f. Total distribution (sum of 15c and 15e): 16,082. g. Copies not distributed: 518. h. Total (sum of 15f and g): 16,600. i. Percent paid (15c/15f x 100): 98.97%. No. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: a. Total number of copies (net press run): 15,538. b. Paid circulation: (1) Mailed outside-county paid subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541. (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof and exchange copies): 12,500. (2) Mailed in-county paid subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541 (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof and exchange copies): 0. (3) Paid distribution outside the mails including sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales, and other paid distribution outside USPS: 3,038 (4) Paid distribution by other classes of mail through the USPS: 0. c. Total paid distribution [sum of 15b. (1), (2), (3), and (4)]: 15,538. d. Free or nominal rate distribution (by mail and outside the mail) (1) Free or nominal rate outside-county copies included on PS Form 3541: 166. (2) Free or nominal rate in-county copies included on PS Form 3541: 0. (3) Free or nominal rate copies mailed at other classes through the USPS: 0. (4) Free or nominal rate distribution outside the mail (carriers or other means): 0. e. Total free or nominal rate distribution (sum of 15d (1), (2), (3) and (4): 166. f. Total distribution (sum of 15c and 15e): 15,704 g. Copies not distributed: 510. h. Total (sum of 15f and g): 16,214. i. Percent paid (15c/15f x 100): 98.94%. 16. Electronic Copy Circulation, Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months. a. Paid Electronic Copies: 230. b. Total Paid Print Copies (Line 15c) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a) 16,146 c. Total Print Distribution (Line 15f) + Paid Electronic Copies (Line 16a) 16,312. d. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies) (16b divided by 16c X 100) 98.98%. I Certify that 50% of all my distributed copies (electronic and print) are paid above a nominal price. Yes. 17. Publication of Statement of Ownership will be printed in the 12/20 issue of this publication. 18. Signature and Title of Editor, Publisher, Business Manager, or Owner: Michael Wnek. Date: 10/13/20. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/ or civil sanctions (including civil penalties).

MyNorth.com

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11/4/20 12:17 PM

hot cocoa | drinks

HOT CHOCOLATE (THE LOCAL WAY)

Warm up this winter with a mug of luscious, locally crafted drinking chocolate.

TEXT BY ALLISON JARRELL | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

Whether you’re looking to create a festive hot cocoa bar for your next holiday soirée, or simply mixing up a late-night mug to satisfy your sweet tooth, artisan chocolate shop Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate in Empire has you covered.

Owners Jody and DC Hayden say their drinking chocolate—offered in milk chocolate, dark chocolate and their 50/50 house blend—is different from your typical hot cocoa. It’s made from ground chocolate, not cocoa powder, which means it retains the cocoa butter fat for a richer, creamier taste. (Yum!)

TRY THESE DELECTABLE VARIATIONS » Add cinnamon and smoked chili powder to create what Jody and DC call “Dragon's Breath” hot chocolate. » Add a ½ shot of Iron Fish Distillery's rum or gin for a spirited holiday drink. » Reduce water to 4 ounces for a rich sipping chocolate. » Top with homemade whipped cream. (At Grocer’s Daughter, Jody and DC make whipped cream using The Farmers’ Creamery heavy cream and a little local maple syrup to sweeten. It's divine!)

TO PREPARE THE PERFECT CUP OF DRINKING CHOCOLATE PER SERVING (7 OUNCES WATER AND ¼ CUP DRINKING CHOCOLATE MIX) » Bring water to a boil.

Then turn the burner off. » Add chocolate mix and let stand for 20 seconds. » Whisk until chocolate is melted.

FOR MORE CHOCOLATY GOODNESS, INCLUDING OTHER TREATS TO TRY AT GROCER’S DAUGHTER, CHECK OUT THIS MONTH’S FEATURE STORY HIGHLIGHTING LOCAL CHOCOLATIERS ON PAGE 26.

Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate, 11590 S. Lacore St. (M-22), Empire, grocersdaughter.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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DEC '20

47

11/4/20 12:17 PM

love of the land

The Keepers of Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail Thanks to a crew of dedicated volunteers, you can ski, snowshoe or bike the scenic Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail all winter long.

BY ALLISON JARRELL + FRIENDS OF SLEEPING BEAR DUNES

While the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail can be enjoyed year-round, winter is an especially magical time to glide through towering snow-covered trees while soaking in views of the dunes and surrounding national lakeshore. The Friends of Sleeping Bear Dunes make that magic possible.

The maintenance and grooming of the trail are managed each year by the Friends of Sleeping Bear Dunes to accommodate classic cross-country skiing, skate skiing, snowshoeing and fat tire biking between Glen Arbor and Empire. The crew of 20 volunteers grooms the trail between Forest Haven Road in Glen Arbor to the corner of Voice and Bar Lake roads just north of Empire, for a total distance of 10 miles. (The trail north of Glen Arbor, from Crystal View Trailhead to Port Oneida Road, is not groomed, but is open for backcountry skiing and snowshoeing.)

If all goes perfectly, it takes about six hours for the team of volunteers to groom the entire trail from Glen Arbor to Empire. The highest prioritized section is between Glen Haven and Glen Arbor, with a loop through the DH Day Campground—this area typically sees the most winter use. The next section groomed is from Glen Haven to the Dune Climb. The trail is fully groomed from the Dune Climb to Empire when there are enough volunteers and the weather and temperature are ideal.

For more information and a map of the trail, visit sleepingbeartrail.org.

Condition updates throughout the winter can be found at: friendsofsleepingbear. org/sleeping-bear-heritage-trail/sbht-winter-page.

48

FAT BIKE ETIQUETTE » Don’t ride on the SBHT if conditions are too soft. If you’re leaving a rut deeper than an inch, having a hard time riding in a straight line or pushing your bike, the snow is too soft and you shouldn’t ride your bike on the trail. » Tires must be 3.7 inches or bigger. » Tire pressure must be under 8 psi. » Do not ride on classic cross-country ski tracks. » Bikes yield to skiers. » Stay to the right side of the trail (not in the classic tracks) at all times. » Give skate skiers a wide berth. » Be an ambassador for the sport— educate other bikers, discourage bad behavior, follow the rules and support grooming!

MyNorth.com

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11/4/20 12:18 PM

Great things happen to those who don't stop believing, trying, learning, and being grateful. - Roy T. Bennett

NORTHERN MICHIGAN, Thank you for 28 years of doing great things together. We’re just getting started!

Merry Christmas and a Happy and Healthy New Year to you and yours.

Holly Gallagher Holly Gallagher, CFP® President and Founder, Uber Driver for my kids.

HORIZON FINANCIAL Your Goals. Our Focus.

Holly Gallagher, CFP® President & Founder

Kelly Town Director of Client Services & Operations

231.941.6669 | HorizonFinancialTC.com | kelly@cfnmail.com 12935 S. West Bayshore Dr. Suite 220 | Traverse City

Minimum assets for new client relationships is $ 750,000. Minimum financial planning fee $2,500.

Advisory services offered through Commonwealth Financial Network®, a Registered Investment Adviser.

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11/6/20 8:43 AM

LAKE CHARLEVOIX

BAY HARBOR

WALLOON LAKE

TORCH LAKE

BURT LAKE

Happy Holidays.

As this unusual year draws to a close, let us take time to hold those we love a little tighter and to share gratitude for those who helped us through it all.

From my entire team to our clients, friends, family, and associates, we extend a very heartfelt thank you. May the coming year bring you good health and prosperity.

231-838-2700

WALLYKIDD.COM 325 EAST LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY, MI 49770

1220 TVM COVER.indd 4

11/4/20 10:33 AM