February 2019

MYNORTH HOME SERVICES DIRECTORY BUILDERS. LANDSCAPERS. ARCHITECTS. MORE.

INSIDE: ERN NORTH & HOME E COTTAG

RED HOT BEST | TWICE AS HOT! Vote! mynorth.com/vote19

WINTER ROCKS! — big adventures

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The First Name in Second Homes

joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 654 Croswell, East Grand Rapids • 616.940.9288 • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168

Contents february | features

Discover more about Up North, people, places, food and events.

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26

32

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26 | PLAYING IN LAKE SUPERIOR’S BIG BACKYARD Picture yourself at Pictured Rocks this winter.

32 | POPPYCOCKS Secret-recipe soups from T.C.’s iconic bistro.

38 | SLEEPING BEAR SAUNTER Jeff Smith, our beloved former Traverse editor, leads a winter snowshoe pilgrimage over our beloved Sleeping Bear Dunes.

44 | BACKCOUNTRY & BRUNCH Who doesn’t want to glide from a wintery trail to a breakfast sandwich bar?

PLUS | NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE (FOLLOWING PAGE 48)

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

FEB ’19

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contents | departments

49 WHEN THE GOOD STUFF GOES ON SALE

Since 1876

Suttons Bay, MI 49682 231.271.3841 www.bahles.net

BECAUSE YOU DESERVE A BURRITO

9 | EDITOR’S NOTE

53 | LOCAL TABLE

11 | UP NORTH

Glendale Ave. is the new gotta-get-there brunch pop-up.

Author Jerry Dennis kicks off a conversation about water; falling hard for a hardware store.

15 | THIS IS MYNORTH

55 | DRINKS Fortified wines that’ll ease you (happily) through the winter.

Hang out with us online, on social and at MyNorth Tickets.

56 | LOVE OF THE LAND

16 | FEBRUARY EVENTS

ON THE COVER

Community bonfire on Mackinac Island, Petoskey’s Winter Carnival, Flamekeeper plays the Dennos and so much more!

Timbers Recreation Area.

A winter stroll, Lake Superior-style.

PHOTO BY ERIK OLSEN

19 | TRAVEL Winter renewal.

21 | UP IN MICHIGAN Ever wonder what Mackinac Island is like in winter?

facebook.com/mynorthmedia

25 | OUTDOORS

instagram.com/mynorthmedia

Find your winter action on a frozen lake.

pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

49 | DINING

twitter.com/mynorth

A jar, a spoon and thou.

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12/12/18 10:40 AM

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR WEB EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Deborah Wyatt Fellows Katy Schumacher Emily Tyra Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Elizabeth Aseritis, Caroline Dahlquist Lou Blouin, Kim Schneider, Tim Tebeau, Andrew VanDrie Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr

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Northern Michigan Landmark Lodging

Erin Lutke

Bay View inn, Bay View Victorian country inn on the shores of Little Traverse Bay. 800-258-1886

Rachel North

Hannah Malinowski Libby Stallman Chris Ruszel

Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 Subscriber Services Visit MyNorth.com/sub to change your address or to review your account.

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly

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Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $27.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2018, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

Crooked riVer lodge, alanson Family-friendly lodge, overlooking the picturesque Crooked River.

Indoor pool. 866-548-0700

Perry Hotel, Petoskey Just off the bay in Petoskey’s historic downtown Gaslight District. 800-737-1899

Winter Packages Available

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FEB ’19

7

New construction in historic downtown Petoskey.

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BayNorthRealty.com · 445 Michigan St., Unit 2, Petoskey

editor’s note

DINNER AND A STORY TEXT BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

PHOTO: C-SPAN.ORG

C

oming out of a movie at The State Theatre one winter night a few weeks ago, my husband, Neal, and I were in the mood for a great bowl of soup in downtown Traverse City. If you know the culinary options available now in just a few short blocks, you know narrowing it down can be a challenge. We decided on Poppycocks.

Their Tomato-Spinach-Swiss always draws me back even though I inevitably order a different soup-of-the-day.

It was crowded with its relaxed, warm vibe and as we waited for a table, my eye was drawn to the soda fountain, now with beer taps instead of the soda taps and blackboards alongside the big mirror introducing the always-creative specials, including a pasta special, a green plate and the ever-inspired gold plate.

In that moment, it was impossible not to be drawn back decades to when that same soda fountain was a staple of the same space, only then the specials would be the hot turkey sandwich or the meatloaf dinner. The space that houses Poppycocks was once called Stacey’s, opened on Front Street by Chuck and Julie Stathakis in 1957, a truly iconic part of downtown until it closed in 1984.

Stacey’s was Julie’s baby, a “five foot nothing” ball of fire who brought a childhood filled with hardship to the restaurant bearing her husband’s nickname. Her heart was huge and no one went without food while at the same time, she took no guff from anyone. If

someone wasn’t behaving well, even to the folks they were with, they heard about it from Julie.

Julie was best known for her nicknames, for regularly altering people’s orders and for her payment system: Get the bill, go to the cash register and check yourself out. It was said that Julie often ended up with more money at the end of the day than was even owed. My brother, Steve, an ER doc who showed up at Stacey’s at different hours, regularly ordered only to have Julie say, “No, today, Slim, you are having oatmeal.” And he would—as would everyone else. Even the “founding fathers” received this treatment.

They were a group of sometimes 15 or 20 men who worked downtown and gathered for coffee at 10 a.m. on weekday mornings to shoot the breeze, solve the world’s problems and presumably chart the course of some part of Traverse City’s life. Think about it: Men from every business sector actually stopped work at 10 a.m. to take a coffee break for an hour or so, every day.

That’s probably as much a statement about life in Northern Michigan then as the menu of fried pork chops, dishes smothered in gravy and fish on Fridays.

When we started Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine in a room above The Camera Shop on Front Street, Woolworth’s was still selling anything and everything you might need, Horizon Books was across the street from its current location which then held =

=

Penny’s, and the Milliken Tea Room was a go-to for hungry shoppers. I’m sure the booths at Stacey’s must have filled with tourists in the summer, but I remember mostly locals filling the booths and stools. When I could afford a lunch out, a good, inexpensive bowl of soup from Julie fit the bill. If I splurged because of a particularly good day, or a bad one, I’d order the hot turkey sandwich—turkey on white bread with mashed potatoes all covered in delicious gravy. It was a classic.

No one could have imagined a Northern Michigan that attracts some travelers specifically for its culinary choices. Those guys drinking coffee in the corner could not have imagined that one day, on Front Street all these years later, it’s possible to go door to door for spectacular food of every type, from Asian to Latin, vegan to French.

And still get an outstanding bowl of soup to boot.

It was simpler back then, for sure.

The palettes of the patrons were rather more traditional and the pace of life made dropping everything for a cup of coffee easier in some ways. But the essence of what could be found in Stacey’s still resounds through Northern Michigan today. We are still a region where people hang a sign with a restaurant name, a law practice or a retail shop and put their passions and dreams on the line. Coffee comes in a million flavors and forms but our coffee shops are packed with people sharing stories, 4

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editor’s note

ideas, memories and plans. Food and landscape and conversation still bring us together. And it is all of us who take care of each other, no matter the need.

One thing I think anyone of any generation would enjoy seeing is the vibrancy of our downtowns, especially at night when the streets are often filled with people out for an evening of food and drink, a concert, a movie or browsing for a book.

That night that Neal and I waited for a table was a night things came full circle. I was happy to reminisce with him about Julie and grateful to those who followed in Julie’s footsteps for keeping the soda fountain, the welcoming feel on a winter night and really good food. Neal, who works for Community Mental Health, remembers Julie for the always kind and firm hand she brought to the adult foster care she started after Stacey’s closed, that she ran until 2005, a short time before she passed away in April of 2006 at the age of 81.

This month we feature “Poppycocks, A Love Story” on page 32. It started as a story about soup, but quickly revealed itself to be about the special, enduring heartbeat of a downtown gathering place. And Poppycocks is now an icon in its own right, as it celebrates 30 years in this magical Front Street spot in 2019. Next time you walk into Poppycocks and see the round stools at the fountain counter, picture Julie who never seemed to sit, often announcing to patrons what they would eat, as she ushered a person who could not pay to a seat at the counter and a warm meal.

Tuck that heritage and spirit inside, and then pick up your spoon for what will be a fabulous bowl of soup.

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth. debwf@traversemagazine.com.

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Up North

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

COMMUNITY EVENT

LEFT PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER; RIGHT PHOTO BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

Third Coast Conversations

JERRY DENNIS

Author Jerry Dennis kicks off the Third Coast Conversations series on February 28 from 4-7 p.m. at the Hagerty Center at Northwestern Michigan College. Funded by the Michigan Humanities Council, the series of dialogues about water in Michigan feature invited authors, artists, musicians and community leaders and gather the public to explore the role that fresh water plays in Traverse City's history, culture and sense of place. Following Dennis' keynote speech, the conversations will break into small-group explorations led by trained facilitators in an innovative conversational style developed by Oregon Humanities. The project aims to create new connections among people who are interested in water and inspire attendees with a renewed sense of local pride in our water.

Our relationship to water and place is ingrained and obvious, right? What do you hope will come from gathering to talk about it? What might we learn?

Every time I speak in public I take the opportunity to ask people about their relationships with water. I’m continuously surprised and heartened to learn how deeply they care about their waters—and how furious they are when they’re threatened, polluted, or stolen. I’ve been at this long enough to notice trends, and one that’s unmistakable is that people are better informed and more passionate about protecting their water than they were 10 or 20 years ago. Many of our elected officials are aware of it, too. Those who aren’t are getting a rude awakening come election time.

Dennis, who lives with his wife Gail on Old Mission Peninsula, is known for his writing about the effect of human culture on the natural environment. His books include The Windward Shore (2011) and The Living Great Lakes (2004). He was named Michigan Author of the Year in 1999. We spoke with him about pride in our local water and the need to protect the Great Lakes.

Can you think of a particular, recent moment when you felt pride about our region's water? Take us to that moment and that place?

I’m proud every time I look out the window at the bay or wade the Boardman River or hike in the Sand Lakes Quiet Area. Nothing makes me prouder and more aware of how fortunate we are than to host4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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#LETSTAKEAWALK in Downtown Traverse City

(231) 922-2050 downtowntc.com

Presidents’ Day Weekend Sale February 15-18

Traverse City Restaurant Week February 24 - March 2

Downtown Art Walk May 3

DOWNTOWN GIFT CERTIFICATES MAKE THE PERFECT GIFT!

PAC K AG E S AVA I L A B L E Pac k ag e s a r e $ 7 0 p e r c o u p l e & i n c lu d e : Ap p e t i z e r , D i n n e r , D e s s e rt , & C h a m pag n e

AVA I L A B L E F OR P U RC H A S E ON

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what's up | up north visitors from places in the world where water is scarce or unclean. I like to take them to the Straits or Sleeping Bear or Empire Bluffs and watch as they take in the view of clean blue water stretching to the horizon. The looks on their faces say it all.

1

Do you have a favorite place where you connect with water?

A tough question because there are so many, but Gail and I especially love walking rocky beaches on lakes Michigan and Superior and exploring rivers, creeks, and woodland lakes in national and state forests throughout northern Michigan and the U.P.

PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

What are your greatest fears when it comes to protecting our regional watershed?

My greatest fear is that people will stop caring. I’ve seen it happen in places where the water has become fouled with effluents and clogged with algae. A kind of community despair comes over people and they lose hope that the water will ever be clean.

What are your greatest causes for hope (for the watershed)?

Traverse City is on its way to becoming a globally recognized center for freshwater study. Important work in research, education, and advocacy is being done here by universities and government agencies, by NMC’s Great Lakes Water Studies Institute, and by nonprofits like FLOW, the Conservation Resource Alliance, Inland Seas Education Association, Circle of Blue, and the groups at the Great Lakes Discovery Center and Pier. Their numbers are growing, too. I’m currently working with an energetic, farsighted team to establish The Library of the Great Lakes here in Traverse. It will be both a public and a research institution, featuring a fellowship program to bring in scholars and students from around the world, regular exhibits and public events, and is the most comprehensive collection of Great Lakes-related scientific, historical, and cultural materials ever assembled.

This kind of activity makes me increasingly hopeful that people will continue to care and that our waters will be protected for many generations to come. —Jacob Wheeler

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TRUE NORTH

We (Heart) Hardware Stores In Northern Michigan, we are undyingly smitten with our hometown hardware stores for good reason. Their tenured staffers beckon us in from the cold and hand us what we need, whether it’s a bolt or a bratwurst. Here are three charmers—some in operation for 100 years— where the shelves overflow with both practicality and true small-town perks. —Emily Tyra

1 | W.W. FAIRBAIRN & SONS Hunt for delightful surprises like badminton rackets and ice cream makers among the handy necessities at this Michigan Historical Site. Scottish immigrant Walter W. Fairbairn founded the store in 1895. His modern-day descendants, who dispense state-of-the-art plumbing advice and still repair your screen door the old-fashioned way, run it with pride. 7529 US 31 Alanson, 231.548.2244

2 | FIFE LAKE TRUE VALUE Wander the nooks and crannies of this 1890s hardware store icon for paint, local maple syrup, flashlights, auto parts and darling made-in-Michigan gifts for your Valentine. 119 E State Street, Fife Lake, 231.879.4094

3 | LAKE ANN GROCERY & HARDWARE A rustic front porch festooned with garlands and Detroit Tigers posters welcomes you from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day but holidays. Inside, soak up the 19th century general store vibes while browsing extension cords, wooden snowshoes, spicy brown mustard, and your pick of 15 varieties of hot dogs and sausages. Libations, too. 19619 Maple St, Lake Ann, 231.275.6479

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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Elizabeth Blair

FinePearls

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Traverse City & Surrounding Area’s

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Jerri Kindlinger Jerri Kindlinger Manager Manager 231-645-5020 231-645-5020

Introducing the Duplex at Chelsea Park II Introducing the Duplex at Chelsea Park II Discover this hidden treasure. Privacy and location are key when it comes to the tranquil setting of Chelsea Park II. Discover this hidden treasure. Privacy and location are key when it comes to the tranquil setting of Chelsea Park II. These 2BR/2BA, one-story condominiums offer a full walk out basement, natural gas fireplace, and oversized twoThese 2BR/2BA, one-story condominiums offer a full walk out basement, natural gas fireplace, and oversized twocar garage. Quality construction with updated amenities such as heated tile floors in the master bath and quartz car garage. Quality construction with updated amenities such as heated tile floors in the master bath and quartz counter-tops throughout. There is still time to pick your finishes. All exterior maintenance, lawn care, and snow counter-tops throughout. There is still time to pick your finishes. All exterior maintenance, lawn care, and snow removal included in your low monthly association dues. removal included in your low monthly association dues.

Maintenance free living at its best!

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TIX

YO U R L I F E U P N O RTH

2/23 GRAND TRAVERSE GUNS AND HOSES 6TH ANNUAL BENEFIT HOCKEY GAME

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2/22 - 24 LITTLE SHOP OF HORRORS 2/23 THE HIGHLANDS WINTER WINE TASTING

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TIX Look for this symbol in our Events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

February E D I T E D B Y L I B B Y S TA L L M A N

FRI

Theater | Sylvia is the story of

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SAT

2

SAT

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Festival | Head to Mackinac

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Island’s Great Turtle Park for a bonfire cookout, sledding, snow golf, archery, snow volleyball, broom hockey and a photo contest to select pictures for the 2020 Mackinac Island Calendar.

February 1-3, mackinacisland.org Fowler’s beautiful showroom to vote for your favorite room and enjoy an evening of festive holiday-of-love fun at the Celebrity Dream Room Classic.

All of the proceeds benefit Child & Family Services/Third Level.

MyNorthTickets.com

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And More | Visit Golden-

FRI

THU

the odd love triangle between a husband, wife, and a dog. The Studio Theatre @ the Depot.

MyNorthTickets.com

Sports | The 43rd Annual

North American Vasa is a winter tradition in Traverse City, with various race formats, distances and combinations for all abilities. vasa.org

MyNorth.com

FRI

SAT

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VALENTINE’S DAY

Theater | A deviously

SAT

And More | Steer to

SUN

And More | Traverse City’s

WED

Music | Live in the yurt,

22

Festival | Visit the

Winter Sports Park and downtown Petoskey this Presidents’ Day Weekend for family fun including the Winter Carnival, dining and shopping! petoskeydowntown.com

Music | Michael Cleveland

and his band Flamekeeper (fivetime Instrumental Band of the Year Award winners) deliver powerful, exciting and authentic bluegrass. Milliken Auditorium at Dennos Museum Center.

MyNorthTickets.com

MON

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FRI

PRESIDENTS’ DAY

23 24 27

delicious Broadway and Hollywood sci-fi smash musical Little Shop of Horrors has devoured the hearts of theater-goers for over 30 years. Parental guidance is advised. West Shore Community College.

MyNorthTickets.com Charlevoix for the Dogman Challenge Fat Bike Race, then shift gears and go to Game Show Night at the Charlevoix Cinema III. MyNorthTickets.com Restaurant Week returns February 24 through March 2.

Special pricing on fantastic food!

231.922.2050, downtowntc.com The Little Fleet presents May Erlewine! This is a very intimate show with limited space available.

MyNorthTickets.com

FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS

february | events

Betsy Bay Frozen 5k: 16

Music Save yourself a trip. Call ahead to verify all times and dates. Find more events at MyNorth.com

Art

Please find more Art events at MyNorth.com.

2019 Northwest Michigan Regional Juried Exhibition: Feb. 3-May 5

The Dennos Museum Center invites artists in Northwest Michigan to submit up to two works to be juried for exhibition in the 2019 Northwest Michigan Regional Juried Exhibition. Held regularly at the Museum for 27 years, the exhibition features art made by local artists over the last year, juried by a regional arts professional. dennosmuseum.org

Fairs, Festivals & Holidays

Please find more Fairs, Festivals & Holidays at MyNorth.com.

Gaylord Alpenfrost: 1-2

Alpenfrost is the rebirth and evolution of an exciting winter celebration in downtown Gaylord, combining anchor events such as The Frosty Plunge and a Craft Beer & Wine Festival at Treetops Resort, with a flurry of downtown activities, games and merchant sales. Worthy of a vintage Norman Rockwell painting, the Alpine Village will unveil an open-air ice skating rink on the Courthouse lawn during Alpenfrost. gaylordalpenfrost.com

Please find more Music events at MyNorth.com.

Met Opera: Carmen (Bizet): 2

Mezzo-soprano Clémentine Margaine reprises her remarkable portrayal of opera’s ultimate seductress, a triumph in her 2017 debut performances, with impassioned tenors Yonghoon Lee and Roberto Alagna as her lover, Don José. Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts, Manistee. 231.398.9770, MyNorthTickets.com Joshua Davis with Special Guest Luke Winslow-King: 8-9

Joshua Davis writes and performs songs that blend the roots of American music with gritty rock n’ roll and vintage soul. Join him at the Old Town Playhouse in Traverse City for a night of beautiful singing, killer guitar playing, irreverent storytelling, and powerful songwriting as he celebrates the release of his new album. Special guest Luke Winslow-King is an Interlochen Arts Academy alumnus nurtured by the sounds of New Orleans. His smoky vocals and sharp guitar playing enhance his mixture of Delta blues, folk, country, jazz, and rock ‘n’ roll, bringing to life his deep appreciation for our American musical traditions. MyNorthTickets.com.

Cure For The Winter Blues Charity Concert Featuring Laith Al-Saadi: 15

Ann Arbor’s own Laith Al-Saadi won America’s hearts and a spot in the finale of NBC’s “The Voice” in 2016. Now he’s poised to bring his authentic blend of blues, soul and classic rock to audiences around the nation and the world. This concert will support mental health charity.

City Opera House, Traverse City. cityoperahouse.org NMC Children’s Choir Winter Concert: 17

Film

Enjoy a wonderful afternoon of choral music featuring the award-winning NMC Children’s Choirs and the NMC Chamber Singers and Grand Traverse Chorale. 3-6pm, Lars Hockstad Auditorium in Traverse City. MyNorthTickets.com

25 Cents Kids Matinees Pick Of The Litter Puppies!: 16

Nature

Please find more Film events at MyNorth.com.

Pick Of The Litter follows a litter of puppies from the moment they’re born and begin their quest to become guide dogs for the blind. Cameras follow these pups through an intense two-year odyssey as they train to become dogs whose ultimate responsibility is to protect their blind partners from harm. stateandbijou.org

Les Cheneaux Snowfest Hike: Winter Ecology:17

Kids

Battle of the Books Competition: 24

Sports

Battle of the Book’s first practice battle takes place today.

It is a book-based quiz competition for 4th and 5th graders in the Grand Traverse community, building teamwork and reading skills. The winning team gets a limo ride, shopping spree and a pizza party. nationalwritersseries.org

Literary

Please find more Literary events at MyNorth.com.

Story Hour: 6, 13, 20, 27

Weekly story hours for young people at multiple locations. Focus is on preschool age children and the hour typically includes a story, activity or craft and a snack.

Interlochen, Traverse City, Kingsley, Fife Lake and the Peninsula Community Library are a few of the locations with Wednesday story hours. Please visit the tadl.org website for more information or call 231.932.8500.

The Grand Traverse Guns N Hoses hockey game is an annual event supporting local individuals and/or families in times of hardship. This organization strives to bring community together to raise up those who need assistance.

The board has officially selected a beneficiary for the annual hockey game: the De Puy (D-Pew) family of Leelanau County! Tickets available on MyNorthTickets.com

And More

Please find more And More events at MyNorth.com.

Aonach Mor Moonlight Dinner: 2, 9, 14, 16, 23

The evening begins with a sleigh ride from the Main Lodge lobby to the North Peak at Boyne Highlands, Harbor Springs. Upon arrival, guests disembark to an inviting bonfire before taking their seats at nearby tables - each adorned in white linen and illuminated by candlelight. On clear nights, the lights of the Mackinac Bridge add to the stunning ambiance. A live acoustic guitarist strums favorite tunes, rounding out the perfect atmosphere for memorable dining. Tickets available at MyNorthTickets.com.

Taste the Passion: 9-10

Winter Wonderland is here, and there’s “snow” much fun to be had along the trail! Gather your friends and embark on an adventure of snow-covered vineyards and sweet & savory bites paired with amazing wine. This celebration takes place Sat. 11am - 5pm & Sun. 12pm - 5pm. Tickets are $40 per person for both days. 21 and Over Only, NONREFUNDABLE. Ticket price includes a souvenir wine glass, delish wine and food pairings at each of the 24 participating wineries, and snow-filled photo contests with super cool prizes. Tickets available at MyNorthTickets.com.

Leelanau County, 231.642.5550, lpwines.com.

The second week of February isn't all about the couples, let's celebrate our gal pals! Visit Rove Estate for the Hang Workshop to create gorgeous decor for your home!

Tickets include: all supplies and instruction for the craft, 2 glasses of wine of your choice, and a beautiful spread of cheese, charcuterie, and other locally sourced snacks. **PLEASE NOTE** There are two options for the craft at this event! In the event photo, option 1 reads "Love you More", option 2 reads "BeYOUtiful". Please choose one or the other at checkout. These choices cannot be changed. MyNorthTickets.com Fustini’s Cooking Classes: 15

Please find more Sports events at MyNorth.com.

White Pine Stampede: 2

Hundreds compete in Michigan’s longest and oldest pointto-point cross country ski race. The annual WPS stretches over the hills and through the woods of Antrim County.

Races include 10K, 26K and 50K. Mancelona to Shanty Creek, Bellaire. 231.587.8812, whitepinestampede.org U.P. Pond Hockey Tournament: 14-17

Guns & Hoses 6th Annual Benefit Hockey Game: 23

GALentine’s Day Hang Workshop at Rove!: 13

Please find more Nature events at MyNorth.com.

Join Little Traverse Conservancy on a snowshoe outing at the Birge Nature Preserve. Explore on and off trail while tracking wildlife and searching for hidden jewels of this preserve. Please bring your own snowshoes. All ages welcome. Meet at the Mertaugh Camp Road parking area, Hessel, MI. 231.347.0991, landtrust.org

Please find more Kids events at mynorth.com and/or subscribe free to Kids Up North at MyNorth.com/kids.

Experience a fun 5k run or walk in the midst of February!

For crazy runners who are willing to face 10-degree temperatures and 30-mph gusts off Lake Michigan.

Frankfort & Elberta. facebook.com/betsiebayfrozen5k

The 2019 Labatt Blue UP Pond Hockey Championship held the first tournament in 2007 featuring 27 teams and now hosts well over 200 teams. The tournament is played on the frozen ice of Moran Bay, Lake Huron. The Labatt Blue UP Pond Hockey Championship is one of the few tournaments where their 'pond' is actually one of the Great Lakes! Thirty 75' x 150' rinks are created and over 250 games are played during this fun-filled weekend! St. Ignace, 800.338.6660, saintignace.com.

Cooking classes are scheduled each week, with various themes at one of their four locations in Michigan. Visit the Petoskey location for a 2-hour demonstration on French Date Night, or Warm Winter Time Soups in Traverse City, both at 5pm. Call ahead or register online. fustinis.com Romancing the Riesling: 16

This annual event celebrates Riesling, one of the varietals for which our wine region is most celebrated. Each winery pairs favorite Rieslings with a delectable food offering. Tickets: $30 advance/$35 day of event. Designated driver tickets available. Discounts offered on select bottles.

Traverse City & Old Mission, MyNorthTickets.com Libby Stallman is calendar editor of Traverse. Enter your event information at MyNorth.com/events two to three months prior to event date. Questions or more information email Libby@mynorth.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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what to do | travel

WINTER RENEWAL A coating of snow somehow quiets the world, maybe our inner worlds too.

These getaways offer a retreat in the best sense of the word—with that just-right combination of nature and indulgence.

TEXT BY KIM SCHNEIDER

CHARLEVOIX

GAYLORD

Pick up some loaner snowshoes (free at the Charlevoix library), then head to Fisherman's Island State Park, where meditation comes easily. Stroll near the water's edge along some of the five miles of Lake Michigan shorefront, where waves splash against ice formations. Warm up in a waterfront room at the Edgewater Inn, heading just down the hall for jambalaya and bread pudding at the French Quarter Bistro. It's worth heading out for a nightcap of creative brews like “A Beach Named Sandy” and “Walkabout” at new small-batch Bier's Inwood Brewery, behind Bier Art Gallery. VISITCHARLEVOIX.COM

Travel by horse and sleigh, true Robert Frost style, to your fancy dinner in the woods, or if you'd prefer, ski your way through a moveable outdoor feast (offered Feb. 9, 16 and 23) with five themed stations—beer and wine and all—along a 6K course. Treetops Resort offers both of those options, and also the chance to just hunker in with a “Lucky You Two” package with its $200 in spa services and in-room gift. TREETOPS.COM

DAVE WEIDNER

BARAGA This town's namesake, Bishop Baraga, was affectionately known as the snowshoe priest, and see if there isn't something holy about a stroll by snowshoe or snow boots along Lake Superior during a stay at the LaRose Wellness Retreat. You're expected to take that soft robe from your room and pad down to the Finnish sauna or hot tub room. Here, spa treatments come to you if you arrange them in advance. Plus, there's an outdoor deck with fireplace for that post-hike warm-up.

LAROSEWELLNESSRETREAT.COM

TRAVERSE CITY Chateau Grand Traverse offers two nights for the price of one mid-week in February, so if your travel schedule is flexible head to the Old Mission Peninsula to catch every other Wednesday's offering of beer yoga at Jolly Pumpkin. For $10, get your hour of Yen Yoga instruction and favorite Jolly Pumpkin brew. Or opt for wine: Chateau Grand Traverse adds in a bottle of wine for each night's stay. For rejuvenation: there's a bay view from most rooms, a chef-provided breakfast and games to play by a cozy fire. CGTWINES.COM/THE-INN; TRAVERSECITY.COM

Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she's the author of the recently-published book, 100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die. kimschneider.net

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essay | up in michigan

A Storybook Weekend in the Straits In the heart of winter, Mackinac Island reveals its quieter, snowier and, yep, more romantic side.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MONTEREY WHEELER

TEXT BY MONTEREY WHEELER

Cross-country skis clamored for space among the bags of winter gear and groceries squeezed into the backseat of the Grand Prix. As Traverse City faded in the rear view mirror, we settled in for a road trip to St. Ignace. With steaming hot coffee and chocolate-covered donuts in hand, we sang along to 50s Greatest Hits.

Newlyweds, married just three months prior, we praised the winter gods for making the drive effortless, as the majestic Mackinac Bridge loomed over the trees in what seemed like moments from our departure. Crossing the Mighty Mac in winter is a rare treat, with very little traffic—mostly locals going to or from the two peninsulas.

The bridge attendant reached with fingerless gloves from the booth to collect the $2.50 toll. The well-plowed streets of St. Ignace welcomed us as we made our way to the Arnold Ferry Line.

Mild by contrast, winter 2002 allowed the ferryboats to run beyond the traditional end-of-year schedule from the St. Ignace side. The docks were abuzz in a season typically giving way to the island airport, or even the ice bridge.

Together we jostled our gear and groceries onto a large ferry cart and boarded the Mackinac Island ferry, Huron, with only a handful of islanders sharing the warmish cabin.

Our boat captain navigated the icy waters steadily through an unending panorama of ice floes, resembling a quilt of flattened marshmallows that gently gave way to the course of the ferry.

Activity on the Mackinac Island docks was stark, compared to summer sojourns to visit family residing on the island. But on cue we heard sleigh-bells jingling as the Mission Point sleigh, our appointed taxi, arrived. Horses with

nostrils flaring, their breath visible in the cold air, waited patiently while the rosy-cheeked driver, clad in layers of winter woolens, helped load our gear.

Our fairy tale was officially underway.

After settling in our private suite at Mission Point Resort, we decided the hot tub was a respite from the zero temps. Gingerly stepping barefoot across the snowy deck, glasses of wine in hand, we climbed into our own private oasis, curtained off from the rest of the world. If we frightened the ghosts that supposedly occupy the hallowed halls of the resort, they never complained. The far reaches of the island slept.

And we slept. Morning dawned clear, beautiful and cold. Hot tea, breakfast energy bars and fresh grapes provided us with all the nourishment we needed to hit the trails for a brisk cross-country ski. Laden only with bottles of water4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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WHEN YOU FIND A MAC N’ CHEESE BETTER THAN MOM’S.

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MyNorth is the home of Traverse Magazine

essay | up in michigan and a flask of schnapps, we marveled at the beauty that filled our gaze over the village to the icy patchwork of the Straits. We skied to Arch Rock where the sun glistened on the frozen ridges and outcroppings of this natural limestone formation—a major island tourist attraction in summer. We blazed our own path across the virgin blanket of snow as it crunched beneath our skis, stopping only briefly for warming swallows of schnapps. In the distance we could see the Tudor structure of the Woods, a fine dining restaurant and America’s oldest operating duckpin bowling alley, set in the island’s interior.

It was shuttered for the winter.

As the sun peaked high above the trees, our light breakfast began to wear off, so we headed toward town with visions of lunch at the Mustang Lounge.

And we’d yet to have a human sighting—until high on the East Bluff we encountered a familiar face. Contractor, renovator and the island’s friendliest guy, Barry BeDour (an island legend, sadly now deceased) shut down his snowmobile and greeted us with his movie-star smile. “I heard you were up here,” he grinned, “want a lift to town?”

News travels fast on this little island, especially in winter when life here is nearly exclusive to locals. Through frozen cheeks we chatted a bit and finally declined the ride offer, opting for the quiet of our skis.

Later, our appetites sated, skis wiped down and damp clothes hung near the fireplace; our après ski treat? We nearly raced to get in the hot tub!

We sipped wine and struggled to stay awake. As if in competition for our favor, a waxing three-quarter moon outshone a plethora of twinkling stars while the temperature recorded 10 degrees. Solitude in nature is without loneliness. It embraced our quiet time together as we sauntered to town for dinner.

Thanking our lucky stars—all of them—we fell into bed both exhilarated and exhausted. Morning came too soon.

On this glorious winter weekend, we saw the world at our feet.

Among many hats, Monterey Wheeler wore the one of office manager/events editor at Traverse for 15 years. She writes from Manistee.

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ice fishing | outdoors

PIKE STRIKE Found in inland lakes and the coastal lips of our Great Lakes bays, pike are an exciting species to target in the artic stillness of February.

TEXT AND PHOTO BY ANDREW VANDRIE

The Esox lucius. Even the scientific name has a ring of insidiousness. Aggressive, lithe, deadly—a predator. More commonly referred to as Northern Pike, these svelte aggressors are one species whose temperament does not diminish with dropping mercury and the groan of hardening ice. Taken through a variety of means ranging from tip-ups, jigging and even the Melvillian hucking of a spear, Northern Pike are an exciting and challenging target for midwinter ice fishing.

Perhaps the most popular method of capture is the tipup. Relatively inexpensive and intuitive the tip-up relies on live bait connected by mono (or braided line) to a drag-free spool that tips off the flag when line is pulled out. (Hence the term: tip-up). This is also one of the most effective ways to cover a broad swath of water as each angler may legally have three lines/tip-ups out at a time. The type of live bait often depends on the lake and personal preference with blue shiners, goldens and sucker minnows being the most popular.

Run the treble hook just behind the dorsal fin or through the nose and drop it into the hole about 3-4 feet under the ice.

Target weed beds and canals in 6-15 feet of water to entice patrolling pike. Once a flag goes off, wait for the spool to stop spinning, gently remove the tip-up from the hole, and pull the line by hand until you feel tension. Give a firm hook set and then haul in the toothy behemoth by hand.

Active anglers can also try their hand at jigging with sucker minnows. Similar to jigging for panfish this method utilizes heavier tackle, with medium action rods measuring around 28 inches or longer spooled with 6-8 pound monofilament.

Utilize bait hooks such as the Gamakatsu size 6 to hook sucker minnows and let them sink below the ice. Give the rod sharp jerks and then pause to animate the minnow. If and when a wolfish pike chomps down on your offering, rather than hitting with an instant hook set, open the bail to allow the fish to better consume the bait. After taking some line, close the bail, reel up the slack, set the hook and the fight is on!

Pike fishing through the ice is also a terrific communal activity. After setting lines, stake out a central location, cook hotdogs on a camp stove, imbibe in some cold beverages and patiently await the excitement of watching a tip-up flag go off. Take turns hand-lining these svelte predators until like a mirage their menacing mandibles appear in the hole.

Slip a hand under the gill plate or snag with a gaff hook if it’s a real leviathan. Keep fingers away from the mouth beset with razor teeth and have a pair of pliers handy to remove hooks and bait. Northerns must be over 24 inches with a daily possession limit of two. However, some lakes allow up to five of any size with only one topping 24 inches or more.

Read up at michigan.gov/dnr.

Andrew VanDrie writes from Traverse City. vandrian@umich.edu.

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playing in superior’s FOR THESE FRIENDS THERE ARE SIMPLE CRITERIA FOR A GETAWAY: MUST BE SCENIC, MUST BE NEAR A BIG LAKE, MUST BE A FOOLISH EPIC. TEXT + PHOTOS BY ERIK OLSEN

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big backyard

J US T G E T O UT THE R E The modes of transportation are as varied as the people exploring the wild winter shoreline of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. Often old-fashioned boots get you where you need to go.

But if the snow is deep, cross-country skis or a snowmobile might be required to cross the dramatic terrain.

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experiencing the wonder requires total immersion — Erik Olsen

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S TAY F O R A SPELL Many explore the Pictured Rocks area in wintertime and get a brief and undoubtedly awe-inspiring sense of the place.

But truly experiencing the wonder requires total immersion. To pick out the finer details requires you to dig deeper and stay longer. The best days are often earned. A long ski, a day of climbing ease the brain into a calm transition.

People often cringe at overnighting in the snow but done properly it is very comfortable—as long as nobody forgets the coffee.

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the best days are often earned — Erik Olsen

READY FOR ADVENTURE? Explore Michigan’s remote lakeshore.

MyNorth.com/PicturedRocks

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A P L ACE AL L I TS O W N The Pictured Rocks area is a wonderland in the wintertime. The ice formations, the weather, the starkness of white against rock and the sounds are totally different than at any other time of the year and are specifically unique to the region. Venturing onto a flat frozen sea of frozen water alone is its own type of thrill. So is hearing the lake and waterfall ice pop and crack as it settles into the shifts in temperature. Watching the colors of the ice shift from seep to seep or time of day and variety of sunlight give this place on the Lake Superior coast a certain level of enchantment.

Erik Olsen shoots active lifestyle and commercial photography from Traverse City. erik@eolsenphoto.com

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poppycocks, a love story COME IN FROM THE COLD FOR FAMOUS SOUPS AND GOLD PLATE SPECIALS. STAY FOR A TALE OF TWO CHEFS WHO FOUND EACH OTHER. TEXT BY EMILY TYRA // PHOTOS BY ANDY WAKEMAN

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L

ocals come in as steady as a heartbeat for Wednesday’s date night. It doesn’t matter who your date is, says Poppycocks co-owner Whitney Butzier Biggs, bring your bestie, hunker down in a booth and share two entrees and a bottle of wine for $45. Date night is a miracle of winter—a perk of the people, for the people.

A landlord and tenant say hello and wait side by side for a table, a guy and gal in snowcaps catch up with her former boss and his wife, laughing so hard they cry. This Traverse City gathering place has been a movie parlor, a dairy bar, a diner, and, for the last 30 years, it’s been Poppycocks.

The Butzier family opened the doors in 1989, creating a remarkable and enduring feeling of community, anchored by the dishes and drinks that people truly crave. On that list: tomato-spinach-Swiss soup and the pita chips to dunk in tahini-rich hummus, salsa or bubbling Jarlsberg cheese.

These are Poppycocks classics. But the specials are where the chefs play, much to the regulars’ delight.

Six years ago, the Butziers gave Executive Chef Chris Day the reins in their storied kitchen after loving what they saw in his debut as a 21-year-old chef prodigy at Peninsula Grill.

Tonight’s upbeat, seamless service in the front of the house reflects the good vibes Chris fosters back in the kitchen.

Swing open the doors to that snug stainless steel kitchen, right now in its final pregame buzz. The daily soups await

their adoring fans. The servers ladle them, and tear off stillwarm garlic-herb rolls from a giant baking tray on their path through the kitchen.

Chris Day grew up in Manistee in a family that bestowed upon him both his passion and his down-to-earthiness. His grandmother (paternal side) was Canadian, a world traveler and, says Chris, a phenomenal cook. “My dad, too—I remember as a kid having steaks with artichokes and Hollandaise at his house and being blown away.” His grandpa (maternal side) kept traditions alive with his homemade kielbasa and local venison. His grandpa, in his 90’s, just last fall helped Chris chainsaw a tree in his yard. “The commonality on both sides of the family,” he says, “is being a quality person and being good to people.”

Chris is serious but smiling at the stoves with Sous Chef Mary Dueweke. They are bantering while executing the Gold Plate special. “Grouper with pepita crust?” he asks.

“With polenta?” she replies. It’s like a little dance. Chris starts whisking together from memory the perfect ratio for firm polenta, adding in cheddar and chipotle. Mary’s on sauce detail, intuiting what Chris would like. “I get what he’s talking about,” she laughs, “Or I know the right questions to ask...”

Mary is not only Chris’s wing-woman in the kitchen, but also his girlfriend of three years. He hired the Great Lakes Culinary Institute grad (Chris is also an alum), giving Mary Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | FEB '19

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her first break. Mary, an Interlochen native, says they were both a little scared about starting to date. “I worked for him before we dated, and we established our work relationship,” she says.

“We were both super nervous,” adds Chris, “but we decided to give it a shot.”

And the specials, created daily by Chris and Mary along with their teammates—James, two Johns, Mike and Andrew— are better for it. “You spend enough time around a person, even just in the kitchen...you start to ‘get’ each other,” he says, adding: “Mary’s good at everything. She’s a Jack-of-all-trades.

At work, she does the specials, she does chocolates. She can do smoked food or braised meats. But that’s just here.

Outside of work she can do about a billion things: crochet, paint, snowboard, calligraphy.”

Mary laughs, “I like to say I am mediocre at a lot of hobbies!” But the bourbon mustard cream sauce she offers to Chris with a clean spoon, and the little stack of expertly hand-knit winter hats she has by the door (she’s checking to see if one would perfectly fit one of the cooks) tell a different tale.

It’s not lost on Mary and Chris that it’s date night, and they are here. But they do downtime right. They bought a house together—an adorable knotty pine abode in Mayfield with a creek running through the yard. They’re hosting a Super Bowl party for Poppycocks staff. Their deep fryer will come out of temporary hiding for homemade wings.

They snowboard at Nub’s Nob, where Mary’s dad runs the ski-tuning center. And in summer, they camp. They bring steaks, to cook with morels and fiddleheads. They make rabbit stew over the fire all day. They take a drift boat out to float. “Chris is an obsessive fly fisherman,” says Mary. Chris attests: “I love the challenge and the escape, a big puzzle you are constantly trying to solve. I’m a catchand-release fisherman, but I like that, figuratively speaking, you can come back empty-handed. You work a long time to get better at it, kind of like cooking. You put in time and effort and it’s rewarding.”

Back to that Gold Plate special: Pepita Crusted Grouper, Chipotle Polenta, Crispy Kale Sprouts, Andouille Relish, Avocado. Mary takes the first taste, and gives a big nod. “It’s gratifying to make something together and collaborate,” says Chris. “Not every day can you be creative, and thank God I don’t have to do it alone, I have a team.” He acknowledges each member of the kitchen crew who, along with the servers, takes a single taste of the dish. It’s a winner.

Mary quickly pens it in the kitchen’s tidy logbook of specials, and passes it to the outstretched hand of the server waiting to scribe it on the chalkboard. A life recorded in recipes. For Chris and Mary, one more date night in the books.

Emily Tyra is editor of Traverse. emily@traversemagazine.com.

Andy Wakeman is a commercial and editorial photographer based in Traverse City. andywakemanphoto.com.

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CHIPOTLE BUTTERNUT APPLE 2 Tbsp butter 2 butternut squashes 2 apples 1 large yellow onion 1 sweet potato 2 qt vegetable stock 2 cups heavy cream 2 tsp chipotle powder 1 Tbsp ground cumin 1 Tbsp ground coriander 1 Tbsp curry powder 1 Tbsp salt INSTRUCTIONS: Microwave squash for 30 seconds to make easier to cut. Peel and dice squash, apples, onion and sweet potato. These are going to be puréed so they don’t need to look perfect.

Sauté onion in large stock pot until softened. Add apples, squashes and sweet potato and sauté for 2 minutes.

Slowly pour in vegetable stock and bring to a boil until squash is soft. Using an immersion blender, blend soup until smooth. Stir in cream and spices. Add more or less chipotle powder depending on how spicy you want it.

SMOKED MUSHROOM BISQUE 4 Tbsp + 8 Tbsp butter 1 large yellow onion, diced 2 shallots, minced 2 Tbsp garlic, minced 1 lb mushrooms, sliced (Portabellas and/or shiitakes work well) 1 cup red wine 1 cup flour 1 qt mushroom stock 1 qt vegetable stock 1 qt heavy cream 1 Tbsp rosemary, chopped 1 Tbsp thyme 2 Tbsp basil, chopped 1 cup shredded Parmesan 1 cup goat cheese 1 Tbsp smoked butter* Salt and pepper to taste

TUSCAN WHITE BEAN AND SAUSAGE 2 Tbsp butter 1 large yellow onion 2 red bell peppers 4 celery stalks 2 Tbsp garlic, minced 1 lb Italian sausage ½ cup white wine 2 qt chicken stock 2 cups chopped kale 2 tsp oregano 2 tsp rosemary 2 tsp thyme 1 tsp ground fennel seed 1 tsp red chili flakes 2 cans northern white beans, drained and rinsed Salt and pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS: In a small saucepan or sauté pan, melt 8 Tbsp butter and whisk in flour. Simmer for 1 minute to form a roux.

Set aside.

Sauté onion, shallots and garlic in large stockpot until softened, then add mushrooms and continue to cook down. Deglaze pan with red wine. Add roux to pot and stir. Slowly whisk in mushroom stock, vegetable stock, cream and smoked butter. Bring to a boil then turn to low. Stir in herbs and cheese. Season to taste. *Optional to add. Kingsley cheesemaker Sue Kurta of Boss Mouse Cheese cold-smokes creamy butter chunks with applewood. Find the butter and more delectable uses for it: MyNorth.com/smokedbutter

INSTRUCTIONS: Dice onion, bell peppers and celery. In a large stock pot, saute onions, peppers, celery and garlic until soft. Add sausage and using a potato masher, break sausage into smaller chunks as it cooks. Deglaze with white wine.

Add chicken stock and bring to a boil. Stir in remaining ingredients and boil for 5 more minutes.

it’s date night Every Wednesday through winter, join the good people at Poppycocks for two entrees and a bottle of vino for $45. Even the glorious, creativity-infused Gold Plate special is fair game.

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Sleeping Bear Saunter WALKING INTO THE WILD SNOWSCAPE OF THE DUNES REVEALS A SECRET WORLD THIS WINTER-LOVING WRITER ALWAYS IMAGINED. THE BEAUTY IS IT’S REALLY OUT THERE. TEXT BY JEFF SMITH // PHOTOS BY ANDY WAKEMAN

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O

ne sunny winter day a few years back, I was driving M22 through the Port Oneida area and was checking out the ridges that rise to the north. I thought, I wonder what this valley looks like from on top of that ridge? I knew that no trail went there, so I figured I would round up a friend and snowshoe off-trail and see.

But I didn’t do it.

So maybe a year later I was again driving that stretch and looking at that ridge and I had the same thought again, but this time it went bigger. I thought, I wonder what all of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore looks like off-trail, like, what would I experience if I snowshoed the entire length of the mainland, not on the shore and not on the trails, just moseying along through the forest and across the dunes.

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And this time, I decided to go for it. I sent out an invitation to about a dozen people who I felt might be willing to do this with me—snowshoe the entire length of Sleeping Bear. I suggest we would do a little section each weekend, and the purpose would be to just, in fact, head through the woods and explore. It would decidedly not be a workout. It would decidedly not be intense. It would be a roving picnic, a walk and talk.

To be honest, I figured the only person who would do this would be my friend John Velis, because we’ve known each other since 10th grade and our history would compel him, guilt-trip him into going with me. I figured others would join for one or two or at most three little segments and tire of it. Or maybe I’d just end up going solo if John Velis did not feel obligated after all.

The first Sunday confirmed these thoughts. Despite emails to a dozen people, only John and Jim Schwantes joined me at the park’s northern boundary, and we headed west through the woods to County Road 669, 3.5 miles away.

We meandered through valleys, wandered among trees, climbed over low ridges, balanced across a beaver dam.

It was a slow-moving conversation. We talked a lot about the anti-gerrymandering ballot initiative, because Jim had been working on that.

I sent the emails again. Gave time and location for the next Sunday’s gathering. Lo and behold, about ten people showed up. We headed off in the same sauntering spirit, and I think it was on this day that the name Sleeping Bear Saunter took hold. We ambled through a swamp, saw a giant oak nearly gnawed through by a beaver, but still standing, wood chips all around.

We walked along Shalda Creek, crossed a frozen Shell Lake. And ... full disclosure, we ended the last section on an actual trail, leading to Camp Leelanau where we’d left some cars.

That second Sunday was also the day the Sleeping Bear Saunter took on the momentum that carried it the rest of the way. Each Sunday after that, between 8 and 14 people gathered to walk and talk a section of the national park. People began to also call the roving picnic “church.” The third Sunday, we began at Camp Leelanau and crossed the heritage farm fields of Port Oneida, headed back into the woods, clambered over blow-down trees from the August 2015 storm near Glen Arbor. The fourth Sunday we actually did mostly trails, because we hiked Alligator Hill, ground zero for that big wind storm. We would have needed five chainsaws and a Bobcat

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | FEB '19

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JEFF SMITH

SATURDAY SAUNTER. Haven’t snowshoed before? Park rangers guide free snowshoe hikes every Saturday, equipment included.

MyNorth.com/SnowshoeTheBear

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JEFF SMITH

to get through it any other way. But seeing the devastation in the bare of winter left us in awe at the force of that summer’s day.

The biggest day of hikers, with 14 people, was the day we snowshoed the entire length of the namesake dunes, about 5 miles, starting at Glen Haven and heading south toward Empire. Photographer Andy Wakeman accompanied us that day and his amazing images are what you see before you.

About halfway across the dune, we settled into a little gully and people busted out food—sausage, cheese, beer ... John unpacked big boiled shrimp.

There was very little wind that day, and the thinnest scrim of cloud-cover diffused the sun and cast a mystical shroud over the barren, wind-sculpted landscape. We often walked over to the dune-cliff edge to stare at Lake Michigan 40 stories below. The dune is the centerpiece of the park, and on this winter day the sandscape far surpassed even our high expectations. I thought it would be really good, maybe even great, but it was full on fantastic!

At this point, we were about halfway through the park, and for me,

since I live near the northern boundary, the southern part of the park had always been a lesser-known stretch.

While there were many surprises big and small on the saunter, I think the biggest surprise was discovering how amazingly beautiful the southern tier of the park is. Tremendously steep forested dune hills are back in there, and gorgeous low dunes too, fields that seemed like manicured parkland adorned with well-spaced jackpines. The final stretch of wide, low, open dune that runs from the Platte River to the southern boundary was wonderful classic Great Lake dunes—but also by then it was near the end of a winter that had thin snow. We took a canoe to ferry people across the Platte and then hiked in boots, carrying our snowshoes up, down and across the sand ridges and flats.

We called it a saunter. We called it church. We called it unforgettable.

Jeff Smith is former editor of Traverse and currently Communications Director at Groundwork, a nonprofit collaborating respectfully with citizens and leaders to protect everything we love about Michigan. jeff@groundworkcenter.org // Andy Wakeman is an editorial and commercial photographer proud to call Northern Michigan home. andywakemanphoto.com

GO AHEAD, YOU WON’T GET LOST Even if you are not a woodswoman or woodsman, don’t worry about getting lost off the trails. You are walking between a Great Lake to the west and a highway (M22), so with a compass, if you get disoriented, just head to M22. But the key is having the compass and map with you. Don’t trust only your phone because the cold can kill the batteries quickly.

A FEW KEY ITEMS FOR YOUR BACKPACK Ace bandages in case somebody twists an ankle or knee (not likely, since snowshoes are so stable, but never know). Two liters of water per person (keep in inside pockets so won’t freeze). High-calorie food like nuts, sausage and cheese to keep the body furnace stoked.

Crackers and energy bars for more instant energy. Map. Compass. Really good homemade beer (thank you, Tim Johnson).

HOW TO DRESS Dress in thin, breathable layers. Avoid cotton. Know the weather and if rain is a possibility, be sure to have rain gear—essential to stay dry. Beware of overdressing in big bulky heavily insulated clothing because you will get drenched in sweat and then chill down. If you start to sweat a lot, peel a layer and stuff it in your backpack.

Snow pants strategy: peel when you start to walk; pull them on as soon as you stop for break. Recommend ski poles for navigating the hills.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | FEB '19

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BACKCOUNTRY & BRUNCH GLIDE THROUGH THE WOODS TO A WARM ABODE AND AN APRÈS SKI BREAKFAST SANDWICH BAR THAT LETS EVERYONE EAT HAPPY. TEXT BY MEGAN GILGER // PHOTOS BY MIKE GILGER

Here we are in February. The snow has coated our world now and will be the background to our days. We never really know just how long this season will last. For true Northerners and Northern Michigan lovers, this time of year is what we all really wait for. We say, bring on the layers of white and ski trails waiting for us to carve our way through them. Whether you hit the hills or just go out your backdoor, the beauty of this area is best enjoyed by way of ski or shoe. They offer no disturbance to the silence we are engulfed in while on the trails. The only tracks around us are those of our furriest of friends that got out there before we did. We get in a great workout and even break a sweat during zero degree temps. This is exactly how we spend this quiet weekend morning.

Our group is gathered in the gorgeous rental property owned by Sean Karcher and his lifestyle and rental company Hygge Stay. His cabin, The Wayfarer Treehouse, is the perfect après ski hideaway. The home was restored by Karcher and when he envisioned the space he saw it taking on the hues of every season, but the black exterior stands strong against the snow-covered ground this time of year. The home welcomes us into its folds for a much-needed recuperative brunch. The menu is simple: an amazing combo of breakfast sandwiches, and everyone contributed a little something.

While still in our ski clothing but slightly undone, we fry eggs, toast local bread, wash fresh veggies, make coffee, and even mix some cocktails. Each person mixes and matches and dubs the sandwiches various names. It’s a fun and easy way to refuel.

After our brunch, we enjoy the fire outside the cabin and drink our cocktails together while chatting about life and our favorite trails in the area. By the time we depart it is getting dark, but by getting up early and enjoying this time together, and the limited amount of light we have, we are ready to head home and get cozy for an evening in. We understand warmth in new ways: stoked fireplaces, deep laughter with good friends, food and drinks that we feel all the way to our toes. This simple morning full of movement and great food leaves us even more excited to enjoy these snow days while they last.

Megan and Mike Gilger create from their home in the countryside of Northern Michigan. Find out more at thefreshexchange.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | FEB '19

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LOX ME OUT Makes 1 sandwich Butter for toasting 2 slices of bread Leelanau Cheese Herb Cheese Spread or cream cheese Pesto Lox or smoked fish Herby microgreens Pickled red onions 1 fried egg Toast buttered bread in a pan on both sides. Once crispy, spread the cheese on one slice and pesto on the other. Place lox layered on the cheese side and then a fried egg with or without a runny center over the lox. Sprinkle on microgreens and pickled red onions and top with other slice of toasted bread.

FILL ME UP Makes 1 sandwich

TO RENT HYGGE STAY’S WAYFARER TREEHOUSE YOURSELF, GO TO AIRBNB.COM/ROOMS/4616223

Butter for toasting 2 slices of bread 1 egg Enough cheese to cover both sides of the bread (suggested: gouda or cheddar) Tomato Relish (from American Spoon) 4 slices of avocado 3 slices of bacon, cooked crisp Microgreens Toast buttered bread in a pan on both sides. After flipping, add the cheese to the sides facing up in the pan. Cover bread with pan lid and keep pan on medium/low.

Remove the toasted bread once the cheese has melted. Fry egg in pan. Thinly spread Tomato Relish on top of the cheese on one side. Add avocado slices on top. Salt and pepper to taste. Top with eggs, crispy bacon and microgreens and bring together.

Now try to take a bite!

SWEET AND POWERFUL Makes 1 sandwich (great for vegans or vegetarians or kids) 2 slices of bread toasted Seed or nut butter (we love Naturally Nutty’s Pepita Butter) 1 banana Favorite jam (we love Food for Thought’s Cherry Raspberry Jam) Spread nut butter onto both pieces of the bread and add jam on both sides as well.

Place bananas sliced into long pieces on one side and then close sandwich. Heat pan with coconut oil and grill it just like a grilled cheese to get it all warm and melty.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | FEB '19

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WARM ME TO MY TOES COCKTAIL Makes 1 cocktail 2 oz warm apple cider Ginger, grated Fresh rosemary 1 tsp maple syrup Pumpkin pie spice Orange peel Heat K gallon apple cider (you won’t use more than 2 ounces or so per drink, but others may enjoy the cider warmed—not in a cocktail) on the stove so it can stay perfectly warm. Place 2 ounces of bourbon, a pinch of grated ginger, a small sprig of rosemary, 1 teaspoon of maple syrup and a dash of pumpkin pie spice into a cocktail shaker and shake vigorously. When well combined, strain it from the shaker into a mug. Fill the rest of the mug with warm apple cider and a fresh peel of orange.

For more toasty-good hot cocktails from bartender Jonas Sevin at POUR in Petoskey, hit up: MyNorth.com/smorescocktail

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FEB/MAR ‘19

For the Way You Live Up North

NORTHERN STYLE: GAME NIGHT

TRENDS: GET ORGANIZED!

historic homes!

WALLOON LAKE MAKEOVER for a Hemingway Cottage

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY Smart Bungalow Redo

DESIGNER TIPS For Vintage Kitchens

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Volume 23

For the way you live Up North

•

Number 7

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LEFT: TODD ZAWISTOWSKI; TOP RIGHT: DAVE SPECKMAN; MIDDLE RIGHT: JAMES YOCHUM PHOTOGRAPHY; BOTTOM RIGHT: DAVE WEIDNER

12 features

departments

12 An A in Hemingway

Ernest himself might have felt right at home in this remodel of his mother’s old cottage and an adjacent new home at the Hemingway family’s former property on Walloon Lake.

5

Editor’s Note Hello, Hemingway

6

Northern Style Game Night

8

Trends!

Get Organized

22 Martha on Washington

A tired old house + one visionary couple (+ fab neighbors!) = triple happiness.

32 New Kitchens, Vintage Souls

Two kitchen designers share tips for blending modern amenities into a period home.

Click on Live Here >Home Ideas

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR ‘19

NHC3

FEB/MAR 2019

contents

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en•vi•ron•ment noun • 1. the surroundings or conditions in which a person, animal, or plant lives or operates.

your

Orchestrating Vision

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editor’s note

A MyNorth Media Publication

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From the Publisher of

Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 Fax: 231.941.8391 Email: x2k9g@traversemagazine.com Subscriber Services To order or renew a subscription, order gift subscriptions, or change your address, visit us online at traversemagazine.com and click on “Subscriptions.”

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To contact us by phone, call 800.678.3416 between 9 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. EST.

More Hemingway About five years ago, Ernest Hemingway’s nephew, Ernie Mainland, invited my son and me to spend a weekend at Windemere, the Hemingway family’s retreat on Walloon Lake. Ernest had spent every summer of his childhood there, forming memories that he later wove into his short stories. I had become acquainted with Ernie through my work at Traverse Magazine. When he found out that my then 15-year-old son, Keef, loved to hunt, fish and write (as did Papa, of course) Ernie thought he could gift him an unforgettable experience. And indeed, it was. After a wonderful dinner in the main house, Ernie, his wife, my son and I retreated to the living room to enjoy a fire in the massive fireplace—the same fireplace that Ernest and his new (first) wife Hadley slept in front of on their honeymoon. Ernie showed us the door frame that still bears the penciled heights of Ernest and his siblings. Then Keef and I turned in for the night to the small cabin where Ernest stayed when he was young. Yes, Ernest Hemingway slept here. And Keef slept in the very same bed.

I thought that getting this close to a writer that I am a bit obsessed with was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Sometimes when out-and-about on magazine stories, I’d drive past the other former Hemingway property in Northern Michigan, Longfield Farm, where Grace Hemingway, Ernest’s mother, had built her private getaway she called Grace Cottage. I’d gaze longingly at the cottage hoping someone would let me peek in. On these drives I also sleuthed how the tiny hamlet of Horton Bay came to figure so prominently in Hemingway’s Nick Adams stories. I realized one day that the geography told the story: As a teenager, Hemingway rowed across Walloon to Longfield Farm, did his chores, and then hiked the several miles to Horton Bay to hang out with his friends.

So imagine my delight when, for the second time, I got to get up close and personal with the writer through this issue’s story on the renovation of Grace Cottage, thanks to the new owners, Steve and Joanne Virostek. As you’ll read, the couple has done a fabulous job renovating the cottage. As you’ll see, too, the home they built next to Grace Cottage is sensitive to the historic site.

There’s more history and more old-fashioned themes (including our Northern Style spread we call Game Night) in this issue, so get cozy and come on back in time with us.

Reprints Wright’s Reprints, 877.652.5295

Northern Home & Cottage is published as a supplement to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. 125 Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684 All rights reserved. Copyright 2019, Prism Publications Inc.

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com.

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR ‘19

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GAME NIGHT

1. Vintage Pouf: Ella’s, Traverse City, 231.947.9401, swingbyellas.com, $180

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2. Lap Blanket: Lake Superior Woolen Co., shopmynorth.com, $129

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3. B arbour Men’s Pajamas: Bahle’s of Suttons Bay, 231.271.3841, bahles.net, $89 4. B alancing Blocks: Sanctuary Handcrafted Goods, Traverse City, 231.932.0775, sanctuarytc.com, $48

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9. W hirley Pop 3 Minute Popcorn Popper: Front Porch, Suttons Bay, 231.271.6895, frontporchsuttonsbay.com, $27.99 10. Mackinac Island Treasure Hunt Board Game: Brain Storm, Suttons Bay, 231.271.0314, brainstormsb.com, $74.99 11. Sheep Mug: Sanctuary Handcrafted Goods, Traverse City, 231.932.0775, sanctuarytc.com, $38

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR ‘19

NHC 7

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trends!

FIND YOUR BURIED STORAGE

TAILORED LIVING

By Elizabeth Edwards

From roomy new-builds to closet-less last-century homes, the organizational specialists at Tailored Living in Traverse City are all about turning the chaos of stuff into lifestyle Zen. Two years ago, Robert and Sheryl Zimmerman asked their friend, Jeremy St. John, to join their new franchise of Tailored Living featuring Premier Garage, a Los Angeles-based, nationwide company. The Northern Michigan region that they service is diminutive compared to the populous urban areas where most of the company’s 200 other franchises are located. But the Zimmermans saw the need. Together, they have become evangelists for the psychological and emotional benefits of a well organized home. Both born and raised in Traverse City, Robert and Jeremy are passionate about Northern Michigan where there are a plethora of lovely preservation-worthy homes—with closets just big enough to hang a Sunday dress. Their mission? To prove there is always a way to create storage.

Recently, we chatted with Jeremy to get a better picture of what Tailored Living can do:

Your company’s motto?

We create calm from chaos.

What are the symptoms of someone who needs your company’s help?

If you can’t find your stuff … there is usually a tardiness element that goes along with that. BTW, that rule doesn’t apply to families with children under age 5. I have a 5-year-old and I can’t find my keys because they are in the bathtub ...

If you walk into a room and feel more stressed than blessed. That especially applies to your bedroom because a cluttered room and/or a room that is polluted with a workstation can affect your sleep.

People don’t call us unless they need us—when areas in their home have become a personal source of pain.

The first thing I do is get the client to breathe. I tell them I’m not here because everything is awesome.

Something needed to be fixed. And then I tell them to make it like they want it. It’s hard sometimes to be that selfish. ➤

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB '19 | MAR '19

NHC 9

10262 SW Torch Lake Dr. - Rapid City, MI 49676 Draper.Construction@yahoo.com | 231.322.3015

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Quality Attention to every detail

TAILORED LIVING

But if they have the ability to envision it then Robert or I will help them translate their vision to reality.

Robert is the lead designer and has the uncanny ability to create space where there is none.

Seems like all the storage in the world can’t compensate for too much junk. Do you actually help people get rid of stuff?

We are happy to help people get rid of stuff. I post a lot of articles on our Facebook page about how to decide what to get rid of and what to keep. We will go into people’s homes and help them. But it is a very personal space. We are very courteous, very professional but it still takes a lot of trust on the part of our clients.

You work with all sizes of houses and all incomes?

That’s the hardest message to send to Traverse City, because there is so much high-end building. Those are great jobs and a lot of fun. But the fact is that housing is at a premium here. I don’t care where you live; it is an expensive house because they all are here. We really love going into a small space that is a source of pain for somebody and turning it around and making it more usable. Make their life easier.

So older homes …

If there is closet space available we can better utilize that space. Most often it involves using the high area.

We can hang clothes in a 10-foot ceiling and you’ll still be able to reach them—with with a pull-down bar.

Some older homes barely even have closets.

What then?

Yes. A lot of these houses were built when people had one change of clothes for church! Case in point: We did an attic closet for an older home on Cass Street in downtown Traverse City. We have tricks up our sleeves to make things accessible in these low-ceilinged rooms with their steep eaves. When we were done it ended up holding three times the clothes it would have without our design. We invented space.

Garages are another potential for storage—and even living—space: Yes, I call it a transitional space. It’s perfect for the Man Cave or the She Shed thing. A good-looking garage (that you aren’t afraid to get dirty) makes your house bigger. And the best thing is that when you organize your garage you can actually fit your car into it.

What’s the price tag for achieving the bliss of organization?

It’s really, really tough to approximate. If you want the sleek modern glass-doors-and-drawers look, you can easily spend five to six thousand dollars. But I have brought pure functionality to a reach-in closet for three or four hundred dollars.

The beauty of our on-site CAD design program is that we can tab out the jobs that need to be done. Then we can break it up over a course of a few years. You just call me every spring and say “Ok we’re ready for this one now.

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB '19 | MAR '19

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an A in hemingway PAPA FANS CAN RELAX. THE HISTORIC GRACE COTTAGE ON WALLOON LAKE, ONCE OWNED BY ERNEST HEMINGWAY’S FAMILY, IS IN GOOD HANDS. TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS // PHOTOS BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR '19

NHC 13

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n high school in Maryland, where he grew up, Steve Virostek got “one A one time,” on a paper he wrote about a short story by Ernest Hemingway. He claims it was one of the only A’s he ever got in school, which, believe him or not, doesn’t really matter much seeing as he co-founded and is principal at the successful Triumph Development, a real estate/construction firm with offices across the country. What does matter, is that the story—and the A—turned Steve into a Hemingway fan, of sorts.

Fast-forward to his early 20s, just after he’d married Joanne, a woman whose family had a tradition of summering in Northern Michigan. Steve himself had fallen in love with our inland lakes and Lake Michigan shoreline the first time Joanne had invited him for the summer. On this particular visit, Joanne’s family had rented a home on Walloon Lake’s Sumner Road. When Joanne told him that the cottage next door had been built by Hemingway’s mother, Grace, Steve figured he’d better check it out. So, thinking it was abandoned, he cracked a beer and wandered over for a look.

That didn’t sit well with the owner who was home at the time. “Before he ran me off, I realized what a special property it was,” Steve recalls.

Turn the clock forward again to 2013 on a morning when Steve was waterskiing with a friend on Walloon Lake near where Sumner road ends. The friend nodded over to Grace Cottage and said, “You know that property is for sale.”

No convincing was needed. Not long after, the Virosteks were owners of the property, known as Longfield Farm, where Grace cottage is set. Even before they closed on what had been the old Hemingway farm, the first decision for the couple was what to do with the cottage—a structure that any Hemingway aficionado would fight to preserve. But a builder, not so much. “It was pretty rough,” Steve remembers. “The porch was slack and not structurally sound. There had been animal damage over the years to the siding. The kitchen and bathroom were old. It was to the point where it was going to be a lot of money to fix up.”

Working with Conquest Builders of Charlevoix, the couple set out to modernize the cottage while making every attempt to take it back visually to the early 20th century, when Grace Hemingway summered here—and her son Ernest would row over from Windemere, the family cottage across Walloon Lake to work on the farm. For recreation, he’d hike down Sumner Road to the tiny hamlet of Horton Bay where he became friends with the Dilworth family. Hemingway readers will remember the Dilworths from the Nick Adams stories that Hemingway penned in Paris where he and his new wife, Hadley, moved after their wedding in Horton Bay. And after they’d spent their first night as newlyweds in Grace Cottage.

➤

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Channeling the Hemingways, the Virosteks removed the brick fireplace facade (probably a 1950s addition) and replaced it with fieldstone—most likely what the original fireplace was. In the kitchen, they replaced formica countertops with wood and pulled up the 1960sera linoleum on the floor and replaced that with wood, as well. Steve found a circa-1930s farm sink (the oldest one he could find) and had it installed. “When our guests come they have a choice between staying in the big house or at Grace Cottage,” Steve says. “They invariably choose Grace Cottage.”

About that big house. There was enough property at Longfield Farm for a modern home, but Steve and Joanne were determined that anything they built would have the period feel of Grace Cottage. After interviewing several architects the Virosteks settled on Ken Richmond of Richmond Architects of Traverse City. One signature of Richmond’s long, successful career has been his ability to translate the regional historic cottage vernacular into modernera second homes. “Ken got our vision right away,” Steve says.

Finished in 2015, this lovely main house settles into its site as comfortably as if it were built in Hemingway’s era. The effect is a product of Richmond’s vision, paired with that of landscape architect Maureen Parker of Common Ground Landscapes, who Steve refers to as the “the site whisperer.”

➤

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR '19

NHC 17

INCITE EXCITEMENT Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine perfect for adventurers.

Count on stunning photos of gorgeous landscapes in every issue, so glorious it’s almost better than being there.

Subscribe for $24 MyNorth.com/subscribe

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We Build Your Dream 18

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The finished product is a four-bedroom home with a catwalk bridge that connects to a structure designed to look like a boathouse but that is outfitted with a man den on the first floor and guest quarters on the second. The home incorporates historically correct details from cedar shake siding, copper window frames, right down to the scupper—an open space for water to drain—that runs between the porch floor and railing.

Indeed, that porch is the pièce de résistance of this home. Covered and a hundred feet long, it spans the front of the home, culminating at each end with small rotundas. “We live on it in the summer,” Steve says. “There are rockers across the front, and one end is for dining and the other has a porch swing and a fireplace.”

As the homeowner and architect envisioned, the porch connects the home to the Walloon Lake setting—and to the historic sensibilities of Longfield Farm.

Elizabath Edwards is the managing editor of Northern Home and Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com // Photos by Todd Zawistowski

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR '19

NHC 19

A B EDROOM IN G R ACE COT TAG E

20

MyNorth.com

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resources An A in Hemingway, page 12

ARCHITECT Richmond Architecture, richmondarchitects.net BUILDER Conquest Builders, conquestbuilders.com LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT Common Ground Landscapes, commongroundlandscapes.com BUILDING SUPPLIES Preston Feather, prestonfeather.com TILE AND STONE Emmet Brick & Block, emmetbrick.com Petoskey Granite and Quartz, petoskeygranite.com CABINETRY Stillwater Custom Cabinetry, stillwatercabinetry.com

Fine cabinetry For your home Jill Brecheisen, Designer • kitchensbydesignpetoskey.com 214 Petoskey St. • 231.347.8400 • Downtown Petoskey

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR '19

NHC 21

22

MyNorth.com

martha on washington AKA HILLARY AND MATT’S EPOCH ADVENTURE!

TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS // PHOTOS BY DAVE SPECKMAN

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR '19

NHC 23

24

MyNorth.com

ot much about style and design escapes Hillary Voight, a warm and vivacious woman who has an arts background but is now a Realtor for the Traverse City-based firm, Venture Properties. So the irony of living in one of Traverse City’s most modern apartments—two walk-in showers, sleek kitchen, big windows—while she and her husband, Matt, searched for an older home in downtown Traverse City did not escape her. But the couple was clear on what they wanted: a real neighborhood with an oldfashioned community spirit.

Matt, a talented furniture builder and third-generation carpenter, has his own eye for design, so the pair took their house-hunting mission seriously. Which is why it is so very ironic that they purchased a yellow-vinyl clad mess on Washington Street on the downtown’s east side. The hip-roofed bungalow, built in 1905, had been abused by renters for years and its address was well known by the Traverse City police department. “Tasers were used …,” Hillary says with a little laugh.

Nevertheless, the home they would nickname Martha for its address on Washington Street, had several redeeming features, including its walkability to amenities including fabulous Lake Michigan beaches, Oryana natural foods co-op and Northwestern Michigan College where Hillary worked at the time as a graphic artist. But perhaps most important, Hillary recalls, were the welcoming vibes from the neighbor next door who came across the lawn to introduce herself when the Voights were first shown the home.

But some skeptics, and there were plenty of them, just didn’t get it. “Some people were just plain blunt about it, saying things like, ‘This is what you bought?!’” Hillary says.

The pair jumped into the ginormous renovation project with characteristic energy and a clear vision for a fresh modern home with a vintage soul. Out went almost all of the old windows and in went new energy-efficient Anderson windows. Off went the yellow siding— to reveal a flamingo pink paint job over some nice original board-siding that Matt added batten to. He went on to add cedar shake at the eaves, a dove-gray paint job and to replace the cement slab at the front door with an honest front porch.

On the interior, they peeled and chiseled up two layers of linoleum (one with a flower motif, the other faux brick) from the kitchen and living room to uncover the original wood flooring—fir in the kitchen and oak in the rest of the home. They also removed a wall between the kitchen and formal dining room to create eating and gathering space in the kitchen—a room they gutted and refurbished with custom cabinetry that Hillary envisioned and Matt designed and built. An alder island top, custom hood, quartzite perimeter countertops (that look like marble but can withstand red wine and Bloody Mary spills), a subway-tile backsplash and touches of beadboard and shiplap on the walls round out this room’s cook and hang-out appeal.

➤

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR '19

NHC 25

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Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR '19

NHC 27

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Upstairs. Well, upstairs, they agree, caused the only tension between them in the entire project. Hillary was set on raising the ceilings. Matt told her that the lath and plaster would be a huge mess. They compromised on raising the ceilings in the two bedrooms and bathrooms, but keeping the low landing ceiling intact. Hillary was right, the three rooms are now light-filled and dramatic. Matt was right. They were up to their knees in a lath and plaster nightmare.

Finished now, the home is a delight to live in. But the best part, the very best part of living in Martha, the couple says, is the neighborhood. There are summer block parties, holiday cocoa and wreath-hanging gatherings. In good weather, folks migrate to their front porches—with wine and extra glasses. The snug little backyard feels generous because there is a side gate in it that connects to the next yard, and the next yard has one that connects to the next yard and then that one to one more ‌ Elizabath Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home and Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com // Photos by Dave Speckman

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR '19

NHC 29

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MyNorth.com

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resources

Martha on Washington, page 22

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Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR '19

NHC 31

new kitchens, vintage souls

TWO DESIGNERS SHARE TIPS ON HOW TO MAKE KITCHENS NEW, BUT KEEP THE OLD (LOOK).

TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS

32

MyNorth.com

Built in 1897, this historic home was

red shade herself, then glazed it for an

once where the steward of the former

antique look. She also used refurbished

Traverse City State Hospital lived. The

antique glass for the front.

building is now a part of the 63-acre

The refrigerator and dishwasher are

Grand Traverse Commons—one of the

paneled to match the maple cabinetry

largest historic redevelopments in the

(finished in a dry-brush technique

country. As such, Angela had to have

that makes it look old). “Stainless steel

all her renovation plans approved by

doesn’t belong in a vintage kitchen,”

the projects’ developers, the Minervini

Angela says.

Group.

The new kitchen includes the com-

The remodel involved building an

pletely new addition of a sunroom that

entirely new kitchen in what had been

feels old thanks to antique barn wood

a sitting room. The callout vintage

flooring from a barn in nearby Bellaire.

features include:

Window seats were often found in

Inset cabinetry built on site the old-

JASON HULET

fashioned way. This technique involves

19th-and early 20th-century homes so Angela created one here.

building one long face frame and then

Angela says that lighting was the

“insetting” the drawers and cupboards.

biggest struggle. In most kitchens

The result is a seamless cabinet face.

she installs canned lights. But those

A built-in hutch designed to look

would call for removing the original

like an heirloom antique that covers

ceiling plaster, which she refused to do.

the chimney and adds extra storage,

Instead, she opted to rely on pendant

including the pilasters on each side that

lights, under-cupboard lighting and

pullout to store items like the mop and

the hood light—all of which, she says,

broom. Angela developed the homey

provide plenty of light.

Northern Home & Cottage

➤

FEB | MAR '19

NHC 33

WHEN YOU FIND A MAC N’ CHEESE BETTER THAN MOM’S.

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MyNorth.com

GRAND TRAVERSE

LEELANAU

ANTRIM

BENZIE

CHARLEVOIX

BAY HARBOR

JASON HULET

Known as Northern Michigan’s mas-

Angela Goodall whose team was hired

ter modernist architect, Glenn Arai

to refurbish the kitchen by the current

New warm-toned fir cabinets echo

designed a number of homes in the

owners Chris and Donna VanSteen-

the original plywood cabinetry. The

region between the 1960s and his death

house. The homeowners opted to leave

range hood was resurfaced, mimick-

in 1978, including one commissioned for

the kitchen’s original L-shape, focusing

ing the simple, clean lines that define

Dr. and Mrs. Douglas Frantz in 1970

instead on the following changes:

this home.

on Old Mission Peninsula.

1/4-inch to spare,” she says with a laugh.

While stainless doesn’t generally

Replacing the original mottled black-

The original floor plan included a

work in the kitchen of a 19th- or early

and-gray Formica countertops with

sunken dining room, which, coupled

20th-century home, it rocks in a mid-

sophisticated black-and-gray patterned

with a massive stone fireplace, made

century modern design, so the only

granite was a style no-brainer.

any spatial changes difficult. “In a

worry Angela had about updating the

Likewise the new, under-mounted

Glenn Arai home the structure is

appliance was: Would the new SubZero

creamy porcelain apron-fronted sink in

what it is—you can’t relocate things

refrigerator fit? “That was the most

lieu of the clunky old two-basin chrome

easily,” says Kitchen Choreography’s

nerve-wracking day—it fit with just

one adds calmness to the room.

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR '19

➤

NHC 35

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MyNorth.com

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JAMES YOCHUM PHOTOGRAPHY

Designer Jill Brecheisen’s challenge

reclaimed accents, hickory floor, wood

whiskey barrel that the clients found

in the Arnold’s home was to make

barn doors and distressed cherry cabi-

on their travels.

the new kitchen match the rest of the

netry on the main portion of the island.

The black painted-and-distressed

home’s vintage rustic style. Her game

The copper apron sink feels as vin-

island end piece looks like an antique

plan played out this way:

tage as an old copper kettle.

yet functions as a modern prepping

The kitchen’s focal point was the

A local blacksmith designed the bar

custom-built stone hood surround, a

stools and kitchen lighting. Iron accents

“Natural materials selections were

detail that mirrors their double-sided

that echo stairway railing spindles and

key,” Jill says. “We fell in love with the

fireplace in the main living space.

the iron chandelier in the dining room

suede brown tones of the island granite

were also made by the blacksmith.

we referred to as ‘cowboy leather.’ We

Warm tones and finishes throughout the kitchen space play up the rustic

The pot rack over the stove is fash-

theme, as do hand-scraped timbers,

ioned from the stave of an antique

and staging space.

increased the thickness and it became the statement piece.”

Northern Home & Cottage

➤

FEB | MAR '19

NHC 37

JAMES YOCHUM PHOTOGRAPHY

The main part of this Walloon Lake

The cabinetry is a mix of distressed

accent tiles behind the range are hand

log home was built in the 1930s. “We

painted white uppers and distressed

painted. “They add character and give

wanted the new kitchen to reflect the

cherry lowers. “The distressed finishes

that antique old world feel,” says Jill.

warmth of the home and complement

capture the charm of their log cottage

The homeowner found them down-

the full-log construction and chinking

and complement the interior’s rustic

state. She chose the field tile for its

which are the defining feature of the

atmosphere,” Jill says.

texture and earthy feel and for the way

house,” says Renee Alexandrowski.

After a support log had to be installed

To that end, the couple hired Jill

into the original log ceiling, Jill had the

Brecheisen of Kitchens by Design.

chinking stained so now it perfectly

To update the flow of the space,

matches the original.

be the focal point.

The marble countertop ties together all of the finishes. “It has an organic feel

Jill eliminated a small island, added

The original oak flooring was pre-

a breakfast bar that both defined the

served and refinished. And the new

entry space and provided seating. She

window trim was stained to match

also added a custom beverage area with

the other wood in the room.

built in refrigerator drawers.

it allows the Ann Sacks accent tile to

with motion and color that isn’t too overpowering for the space,” Jill says.

Elizabath Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home and Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com

The tumbled-marble Ann Sacks

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR '19

NHC 39

INVITE ADVENTURE Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine is for those keen on knowing the good spots.

Subscribe and connect to great escapes, history, food and artisans.

Subscribe for $24 MyNorth.com/subscribe

style

Northern Michigan

BUILD BEAUTIFUL

Beautiful designs are filling your home idea books.

When you’re craving touchable inspiration, open our doors — then open our windows, cabinets and appliances. Open a conversation with one of our consultants and we’ll open even more possibilities.

Bring us your plans and we’ll bring you a smooth, beautiful build.

BUILDING CENTERS & DESIGN SHOWROOMS PETOSKEY | HARBOR SPRINGS | GAYLORD | TRAVERSE CITY |

40

MyNorth.com

prestonfeather.com

Home Services D I R E C T O R Y 2 0 19 Your Building & Remodeling Resource Guide

A supplement to Walloon Lake - Kitchens by Design | Matthews Construction Interiors Inc. | James Yochum Photography

The essential Northern Michigan guide for building, remodeling and decorating your home.

Whether your home project involves building a new home from scratch, just adding a bath, or landscaping your special bit of the North, you’ll find the talented, skilled suppliers and craftspeople you need in Northern Home & Cottage’s Home Services Directory. Visit MyNorth.com/ HomeServices for more resources, products and services for homes and cottages in Northern Michigan.

NHC42

mynorth.com

Architects Audio & Video Systems, Home Automation Awnings Basement/Foundation Builders & Contractors Building Materials Cabinetry Decks & Railings Design & Build Elevator Sales & Service Excavating Fireplaces Furniture Garage Doors Home Organization

Interior Designers/Decorators Kitchen & Bath Designers Landscape Design & Irrigation Log & Cedar Homes Mirrors & Shower Doors Real Estate Restoration & Remodeling Stone/Granite Sunrooms Swimming Pools & Spas Tile Water Treatment Windows & Doors Window Treatments

ARCHITECTS

AUDIO & VIDEO SYSTEMS, HOME AUTOMATION

BUDAY + KRUZEL ARCHITECTS 343 State Street, Harbor Springs, MI 49740. 231-526-0223

Buday + Kruzel Architects has been designing distinct custom homes for decades. Whether your style is a classic “up north” cottage, an elegant traditional, or a fresh modern design – each project is tailored to the client and their lifestyle. loveyourarchitect.com RAY KENDRA, AIA 215 Washington St., Suite 1A, Traverse City, MI 49684 231-946-1234

Ray Kendra, AIA; Local knowledge + Lifestyle and site inspired architecture. We believe architecture is rooted in its environment, and should be inspired by the uniqueness of each site and each client. env-arch.com JOSEPH MOSEY ARCHITECTURE, INC. Elk Rapids. 231-498-2500 Northville. 248-515-4477

When architecture is done beautifully, it has the same power over the mind as music, poetry or any healthy activity, creating meaningful human experiences. josephmoseyarchitecture.com

8700 Commerce Ct. 2748 Garfield Rd N Harbor Springs 49740 Traverse City 49686 231-347-6759 231-947-4710

American Home Technology (AHT) specializes in custom design, development and implementation of home electronic and automation systems, with expertise in home theater, audio & video, lighting & climate control, home networking, and remote management. ahtech.com WAARA TECHNOLOGIES 144 Hall St., Ste. B, Traverse City 49684. 231-935-4511

We specialize in lighting control, home theater design, audio and HD video distribution, home and commercial internet networks, and whole-house automation. Come visit our showroom. waaratechnologies.com

AWNINGS ADVANCED, INC.

5474 M-72 E. Acme, MI 49610 800-953-2288

Since 1986, same owners, same pride.

See all what we can do for you. Sunbrella Retractable Awnings, Commercial and Residential Awnings, Vinyl Roll-up Porch Enclosures, Upholstery, Custom Cushions and Canvas Products. advancedawnings.net

787 W. Conway Rd., Harbor Springs, MI 49770 800-552-2786

We supply our customers with the highest quality products and a wide array of custom work from window shades to large deck canopies and retractable awnings. We specialize in clear vinyl roll curtains custom designed to fit any porch.

Residential and commercial applications. Custom welding. Fully insured traversebaycanvas.com

819 S Elmwood Avenue Traverse City, MI 49684 231-946-0400

Ken Richmond Architect, is a full-service architectural firm. We provide a full range of architectural design and planning services including Custom Residential, Historic Renovation, and Urban Planning projects. richmondarchitects.net SARAH BOURGEOIS ARCHITECTS 921 W. Eleventh St., Ste. 2W Traverse City, MI 49684 231-947-2700

Sbourgeois.com

Sarah Bourgeois AIA

SEARS ARCHITECTS Grand Rapids & Harbor Springs 231-526-8495

Sears Architects is a boutique architecture and planning firm. Our projects include homes and cottages along the Lake Michigan shoreline and throughout the entire Great Lakes region. searsarchitects.com SIDOCK GROUP, INC. 757 S. Wisconsin Ave. Gaylord, MI 49735

TRAVERSE BAY CANVAS

BASEMENT/FOUNDATION FOUNDATION SYSTEMS OF MICHIGAN 3805 Elmers Industrial Drive, Traverse City, MI 49685. 231-486-5100

Foundation Systems of Michigan is Michigan’s largest basement waterproofing and foundation repair contractor, offering proven solutions for any basement, crawlspace, foundation or gutter problem. FSM has repaired more than 30,000 homes across Michigan in their 11 years in business. drymich.com

BUILDERS & CONTRACTORS BIRCHWOOD CONSTRUCTION COMPANY 8920 Moeller Dr., Harbor Springs, MI 49740. 231-439-1600

Building homes is a craft. Building relationships is an art. Building both is Birchwood. We pride ourselves on relationship-based homebuilding and painting. Our experienced family of craftsmen is ready to partner with you to build your dream home. bccfamily.com CONQUEST BUILDERS INC.

Sidock Group provides architectural and interior design services for residential and commercial clients throughout northern Michigan from its Gaylord office. For more information on the firm, please visit sidockgroup.com or contact Bradley J. Butcher AIA at 989-705-8400.

WHITE & LIEBLER ARCHITECTS 117 Howard St., Petoskey, MI 49770 231-347-6870

General Contractor and Custom Home Builders. conquestbuilders.com 12970 Robins Ridge Rd Charlevoix MI 49720 231-547-6752 COOLEY CONTRACTING, LLC

Providing high quality residential and resort architectural services since 1979. Our project scope ranges from small residential additions to large estate residences, commercial buildings and institutional projects. white-liebler.com

More than 25 years of experience in building distinctive homes while exceeding the expectations of discriminating clients. jim@cooleycontracting.com 6446 E Traverse Hwy. Traverse City MI 49684 231-933-4336

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR ‘18

NHC 43

BUILDERS & CONTRACTORS

BUILDERS & CONTRACTORS J PETERSON HOMES

DRAPER CONSTRUCTION INC. 10262 Torch Lake Dr, Rapid City MI 49676. 231-322-3015

Draper Construction builds distinctive and unique homes with your family in mind. Built to capture your vision using hand-selected materials. We combine design, craftsmanship, and artistry to create beautiful homes that inspire. aarondraperconstruction.com

516 E. Front St. Traverse City, MI 49684 231-994-2168

MAC CUSTOM HOMES

FOURNIER CONSTRUCTION AND RESTORATION LLC 4767 US 31 S, Traverse City, MI 49685. 231-421-8002

We are a full service contracting company also offering a showroom which handles a full line of granite and quartz countertops, Merillat cabinets and design , and Dwyer tile. We are open 6 days a week to serve you. fourniercr.net G. MOTT BUILDERS LLC

Small Design/Build company offering new construction, remodeling, and home maintenance. We use modern materials and classic craftsmanship to build high quality homes that maximize your budget. gmottbuilders.com

1935 Yellow Birch Lane Traverse City, MI 49696 231-649-1838

GRAND BAY BUILDING AND REMODELING LLC

6433 S West Bay Shore Dr. Traverse City, MI 49684 231-995-9057

As husband and wife licensed builders, we bring over 30 years of construction skill, design and budget knowledge to your project. Our passion creates well built homes and satisfied customers. grandbaybuilding.com

The First Name in Second Homes West and Northern Michigan’s leader in custom home building and renovation services. We strive to bring value to our clients with integrity, professionalism and the highest quality construction in the industry. joelpetersonhomes.com

3434 Veterans Drive Traverse City, MI 49684 231-935-4609

Experience Excellence With every home we build, we strive to live up to our reputation for impeccable workmanship and unwavering attention to detail, always keeping your vision in mind. maccustomhomes.com

MIDLAKE BUILDERS 112 E. 4th St., Suite 2, Elk Rapids, MI 49629. 231-322-2829

General Contractor specializing in construction of custom-built, upper-end homes of exceptional quality and craftsmanship. midlakebuilders.com

NORTHWEST CARPENTRY, LLC 8181 Mapleleaf Drive, Traverse City MI 49684. 231-218-3061

Professional Custom Building in Northern Michigan since 1997. We have our own staff of skilled tradesmen on site every day to ensure quality and the attention to the details of your project. Four time Parade of Homes winner. northwestcarpentry.com

Your Business Should Be Here.

Reach the 70% of subscribers that own a Northern Michigan house or vacation home.

New Century Modern.

Our mission is to help you “feel @ home”!

© Dave Speckman

Contact sales@MyNorth.com or call (231) 941-8174

808 South Garfield Avenue Suite B, Traverse City MI 49686 | 231.947.7040 www.homecabinetryandinteriors.com

NHC44

mynorth.com

DECKS & RAILINGS

BUILDERS & CONTRACTORS

SUNSPACE WEST MICHIGAN

PAUL MAURER GENERAL CONTRACTING, INC.

10167 E. Cherry Bend Rd., Traverse City, MI 49684 231-941-1448

830 Cottageview Dr, Suite 202 Traverse City, MI 49684 231-943-1654

Paul Maurer has been building the finest custom homes in North Michigan for over 40 years. Our Home Services division Whether specializes in smaller projects ranging renovating from seasonal upkeep to major home or improvements. paulmaurer.com building new, we can easily RENDER CONSTRUCTION, INC incorporate an Builders of Fine Custom Homes &elevator Cottages We Build To Suit Your Lifestyle or stairlift Proudly Serving Northern Michigan into your with offices in Traverse City & Petoskey. home!

renderconstruction.com

SHUGART BUILDERS

6514 E. Traverse Hwy. Traverse City, MI 49684 231-946-4964

Designing, building and remodeling since 1952. We listen to you, do what we promise, exceed your expectations.

Some of the region’s most talented and creative carpenters. shugartbuilders.com

StoneHarbor Construction

STONEHARBOR CONSTRUCTION 1327 N. US 31 Hwy, Petoskey MI 49770 231-444-3700

Enhance Your Home with a

Residential Elevator 2748 Garfield North Traverse City, MI 48686 231-360-9827

DESIGN & BUILD ED KRISKYWICZ CONSTRUCTION DESIGN, INC.

387 River St.,Manistee 49660 231-723-9552 231-794-8180 cell

BUILDERS FIRSTSOURCE

5700 US 31 S Grawn, MI 49637 231-943-7000

HONOR, ONEKAMA BUILDING SUPPLY

231-325-4551 800-444-6396

A family owned business since 1963, with two locations in the villages of Honor and Onekama. Supplying all your building materials for every phase of construction and project. A Do it Best hardware dealer. honorbldg.com NORTHERN BUILDING SUPPLY

1480 S. West Bay Shore Dr. Suttons Bay, MI 49682. 231-271-0010 1701 South Airport Rd. West Traverse City, MI 49686. 231-947-1400

Two full-service retail lumber yards and hardware stores serving all of Leelanau County and the greater Grand Traverse Region. northernbuildingsupply.com

CABINETRY MASTERCRAFT CABINETS

7260 Scotchwood Lane Grawn, MI 49637 231-276-0292

For 29 years, MasterCraft Cabinets has been providing beautiful, award winning cabinetry in Northern Michigan. Our guarantee of quality comes from combining our extensive woodworking shop with seasoned craftsmen and licensed professionals. It’s your home; it’s our profession. mccwoodworking.com

design, build... Enjoy!

MCNALLY ELEVATOR CO

Offering Beach Lifts, Residential and Commercial Elevators as well as Stair Lifts.

Beach(1-800-626-2559) Lifts & Stair Lifts Tom McNally Residential Elevators Commercial Elevators 1-800-MCNALLY 616-942-8070

Please visit our web page to see installations of the above equipment. www.McNallyElevator.com Tom e. McNally ~ President

EXCAVATING ALPERS EXCAVATING

New Construction • Remodel & Renovation • Millwork & Custom Woodshop

Builders FirstSource has the buying power and up-to-date technology of a national competitor and the market knowledge and personal attention of a local store. We are your FirstSource for high-quality building products, excellent service, and a great price. bldr.com

Designers and builders of fine homes, cottages and resorts. cdihomedesigns.com ed@cdihomedesigns.com

ELEVATOR SALES & SERVICE Serving Michigan for over 58 Years

Building in Northern Michigan since 1995. We are a full service Construction Company based in Petoskey, MI. “Custom Building Services offering the Highest Quality Construction with competitive pricing” stoneharborbuild.com

BUILDING MATERIALS

We offer Topless Glass railing and aluminum picket railing of various designs and colors. Our Aluminum decking comes in 24 ft. lengths and locks together so it becomes virtually water proof. sunspacewestmichigan.com

16 S. West Silver Lake Rd. Traverse City, MI 49685 231-943-4710

Complete Excavating Services including removal of existing structures. Installation of Septic Systems. Water & Sewer Hookup. Residential & Commercial.

Family owned and operated since 1969. alpersexcavating.com

FIREPLACES

EMMET

BRIC K BLOCK

&

CO. Fireplaces – Fox Blocks Tile – Flagstone .

Across from the Airport on M119, Petoskey 231-348-5959

EMMET BRICK & BLOCK

From gas and wood stoves, to wood, electric and gas fireplaces, we have the perfect fireplace for your home or cottage from the top manufacturers in the industry. www.EMMETBRICK.com

POSITIVE CHIMNEY & FIRE PLACE 6717 E M-115, Cadillac, MI 231-775-7941

Northern Michigan’s Premier Hearth Dealer for over 30 years. We offer Sales, Service, Installation & Maintenance for most every brand.

Products include Tullikivi, Tempcast, Fireplacextrodinair, & more!

Over 80 displays in our huge showroom. positivechimney.com

GARAGE DOORS NORTHERN GARAGE DOORS

829 Robinwood Ct. Traverse City, MI 49684 231-941-0381

Serving the greater Grand Traverse regions, with over 17 years experience.

Northern Garage Doors provides the finest in: garage doors, garage door openers, entry doors, and home storage systems for both residential and commercial clients. northerngaragedoors.com

HOME ORGANIZATION TAILORED LIVING 1775 M 37 South, Traverse City MI 49685 231-668-9073

Whole home and garage organization and epoxy floors. tailoredliving.com/traversecity

KITCHEN & BATH DESIGNERS

INTERIOR DESIGNERS/DECORATORS LAKE ST. DESIGN STUDIO 404 East Lake Street, Petoskey, MI 49770. 231-348-1824

Renee Guthrie Design is a full service Interior Design Firm. Our team brings a myriad of knowledge and experience to each project. Our goal is to meet our client’s aesthetic, functional, and economic goals. Let us make your vision your reality. lakestreetdesignstudio.com

KITCHEN & BATH DESIGNERS Creating your dream home shouldn’t be an overwhelming experience. Let us guide you through the design process in a way that makes it fun & exciting! We provide design and construction. Initial consultation is complimentary. Call for appointment. homecabinetryandinteriors.com DESIGNS BY DAWN 416 East Mitchell St., Petoskey, MI 49770 231-347-1977

Designs by Dawn is an award-winning, full service kitchen and bath design company in Northern Michigan, providing clients with unique designs and quality interior products custom tailored to their individual needs and aesthetic desires. petoskeykitchens.com

Construction & Remodeling

Interior design and remodeling for your entire home. New construction or remodeling, we are Northern Michigan’s leading design firm. Stop by our award winning historically renovated showroom to discuss how our team coordinates the seamless transition from design to completion. kitchenchoreography.net

LANDSCAPE DESIGN & IRRIGATION

@HOME CABINETRY & INTERIORS

808 S. Garfield Ave, Suite B Traverse City, MI 49686 231-947-7040

KITCHEN CHOREOGRAPHY 420 S. Division, Traverse City, MI 49684 231-932-9700

KITCHENS BY DESIGN 214 Petoskey St., Petoskey, MI 49770 231-347-8400

You’re Inspiration Starts Here! Creating stylish and unique kitchen designs has been my passion for 26 years! Remodeling or new construction, I offer quality custom cabinetry products designed just for your home! kitchensbydesignpetoskey.com

DROST, Design, Construction, Maintenance, Tree Service, Irrigation, Snow Removal 2010 Cedar Valley Rd., Petoskey MI 49770. 231-348-2624

Drost is an award-winning firm specializing in residential landscape design & installation. We integrate design principles, current construction techniques & skilled craftsman to deliver turnkey landscapes. Proudly serving all of Northern Michigan & beyond. DrostLandscape.com LANDSCAPE LOGIC

Celebrating 20 years, Landscape Logic specializes in creating outdoor living environments in Northern Michigan. Featuring award-winning landscape and spa design, our innovative approach PO Box 72. 6247 US-31 South brings custom stonework, premium plants and Charlevoix, MI 49720 unsurpassed maintenance services together for a 231-547-3472 personal client experience. Landscape-Logic.com

LOG & CEDAR HOMES UP NORTH LOG HOME SPECIALISTS LLC

1391 M61 Gladwin, MI 48624 989-429-5698

A professional and experienced log home maintenance company specializing in staining, chinking, rotted log replacement, media blasting, and exterior house painting. Will travel statewide and fully insured.

Free estimates. facebook.com/upnorthloghomespecialists/

DESIGN DREAMS Ever wonder what it would be like to live Up North? Subscribe to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine and get 6 issues of Northern Home & Cottage with dream homes galore.

Subscribe for $24 - MyNorth.com/dreams

NHC46

mynorth.com

LUMBER YARD

SUNROOMS

311 S Brownson Ave Kingsley, MI 49649 231-354-2453

KINGSLEY LUMBER & HARDWARE

SUNSPACE WEST MICHIGAN

Two locations to serve you.

A Full Service-Building Resource.

See us for your all of your building needs for A to Z! kingsleylumber.com

Designed to extend your enjoyment of the outdoors without the usual annoyances of wind, rain, insects and harmful UV rays Enclosures can be installed directly onto an existing patio or deck or under a previously constructed roof. sunspacewestmichigan.com

MIRRORS & SHOWER DOORS

1163 Hastings Street Traverse City, MI 49686 231-922-2182

2748 Garfield North Traverse City, MI 48686 231-360-9827

SWIMMING POOLS & SPAS

T.C. MIRROR & SHOWER DOOR

POOLSIDE POOLS

Exceeding all your mirror, showerdoor and custom glass needs. Custom Euro shower enclosures. Back painted glass backsplashes. Custom glass railing systems. Northern Michigan’s only waterjet cutting service. tcmirrorandshowerdoor.com

Northern Michigan’s premier residential and commercial dealer featuring custom concrete, Viking Fiberglass and Ft. Wayne Liner pools. Site work, excavating and landscaping. Design and consultation. poolsidesales.com

REAL ESTATE

3910 Rennie School Rd. Traverse City, MI 49684 231-943-7061

TILE CENTURY 21 BOARDWALK 113 Maple Street, Manistee, MI 49660 231-723-6100, suzanne@c21boardwalk.com

Real Estate and Vacation Rentals. If you are looking for fabulous Northern Michigan Real Estate on Lake Michigan or in and around Manistee County, please contact us. c21boardwalk.com

REAL ESTATE ONE, SUZY VOLTZ 57 N. Michigan Ave, Beulah, MI 49617. 231-651-9711. RealEstateOne.com

40 years experience serving Crystal Lake, Platte Lakes, Glen Lakes and Lake Michigan areas. Resort, residential, vacation and commercial properties.

Contact Suzy Voltz at suzy.voltz@gmail.com

RESTORATION & REMODELING PAUL DAVIS RESTORATION & REMODELING 1310 Industry Dr., Traverse City, MI 49696 231-933-9077

Paul Davis has a reputation for restoring residential homes & commercial buildings damaged by water, fire, smoke, storm and other disasters to become one of the largest, most trusted restoration and remodeling companies in the Northwest Michigan area. pdmichigan.com

STONE/GRANITE

EMMET

BRIC K BLOCK

&

CO. Fireplaces – Fox Blocks Tile – Flagstone .

Across from the Airport on M119, Petoskey 231-348-5959

EMMET

BRIC K BLOCK

&

CO. Fireplaces – Fox Blocks Tile – Flagstone .

Across from the Airport on M119, Petoskey 231-348-5959

WATER TREATMENT PURE WATER WORKS, INC. 720 S Garfield Ave, Traverse City MI 49686 231-941-PURE, 800-248-PURE

Environmentally advanced technologies: softening/conditioning.

Water purification, certified laboratory services & free consultation. purewaterworks.biz

WINDOWS & DOORS ADVANCED WINDOWS SYSTEMS

2377 Garfield Rd. Traverse City, MI 49686 231-935-3700

Specializing in, retractable awnings, sun rooms, porch enclosures, entrance doors, patio doors, siding, and of course all types of windows. We truly are advanced in keeping in tune with the latest glass technology and European styling. Quality and Value is our creed. advancedwindowtc.com

231-325-4551 800-444-6396

New construction or remodeling. From awning, casement, double-hung, gliding, picture/fixed to bay windows. Low-E Glass with Wood-Clad construction & tough vinyl exteriors. Up to 20 years warranty. andersenwindows.com

EMMET BRICK & BLOCK

The right natural stone accents can create a warm and inviting look to your home. We carry a variety of stone products that will bring your project to life! www.EMMETBRICK.com

HONOR, ONEKAMA BUILDING SUPPLY

NATURE’S EDGE, LLC

1776 M-37 South Traverse City, MI 49685 231-943-3440

Enjoy the lasting beauty of natural stone and quartz counter tops. We have hundreds of colors and multiple textures to chose from. Our expanded showroom is now open and we look forward to helping you with your counter top needs for home or business.

777 U.S. Highway 31 South Traverse City, MI 49685 231-929-2848

Award-winning local, fully digital granite, stone & quartz fabrication focusing on quality & service. Amazing slab selection sourced worldwide with the latest finishes for kitchen, bath, hearth & outdoor. Now featuring beautiful tile and luxury engineered flooring from Luxe Tile! stratusmarble.com

STRATUS MARBLE & GRANITE

EMMET BRICK & BLOCK

Ceramic…porcelain…slate…marble… granite…limestone…glass tiles and more!

If you want to make a statement in your home, we have the products that will deliver warmth and durability. www.EMMETBRICK.com

OLD MISSION WINDOWS

395 Hughes Dr. Traverse City, MI 49696 231-947-2120

Family owned and operated with over a century’s worth of experience. Visit our 5,000 ft. showroom of interior and exterior doors, windows and trim products

by Kolbe & Kolbe and Weather Shield. oldmissionwindows.com

WINDOW TREATMENTS TREND WINDOW & DESIGN

Since 1980

817 Bay St. Traverse City, MI 49684 231-941-1241

Since 1980, Northern Michigan’s Hunter Douglas Gallery. Custom window blinds, shades, draperies, shutters, service and repair. Visit our showroom or schedule an in-home appointment. trendwindow.com

Northern Home & Cottage

FEB | MAR ‘18

NHC 47

Better By Design

Twin Bay Docks Exceptional Quality for an Extremely Fair Price

OUR EXCLUSIVE DIAMOND PATTERN • Engineered for Strength • Non-Slippery Surface • Cool to the Touch

2/1-16 SYLVIA 2/8 2019 4TH ANNUAL STOUT CHALLENGE ( 231) 943-8420 | twinbaydockproducts.com | 982 E Commerce Dr, Traverse City, MI

Total Commitment to Quality

2/11 VOYAGER WINE DINNER 2/14 NAJLA SAID: LOOKING FOR PALESTINE 2/22 NMC CONCERT BAND CONCERT

More than 25 years of experience in building distinctive homes while exceeding the expectations of discriminating clients. jim@cooleycontracting. com NHC48

mynorth.com

MYNORTHTICKETS.COM 800.836.0717 125 PARK STREET TRAVERSE CITY, MI 49684

Giving You that Custom Look Giving You that Custom Look Without the Custom Price Without the Custom Price

Dura Supreme craftsmen take great pride in every cabinet they build. Our kitchen design center would be happy to show you various wood choices, door styles, and finishes to choose from... Call 231.325.4551

Add Dura Supreme throughout your home

Honor Building Supply 10635 Main Street Honor, MI 49640

800-444-6396 FAX: 231-325-2115

Honor Honor Building Building Supply Supply Onekama Building Supply Onekama Building Supply Frankfort Frankfort Building Supply Building Supply Onekama Building Supply Frankfort Building Supply 10635 10635 Main Main Street Street 1132 Main4847 4847 Main Main Street Street 4847 Main Street Street Honor, MIMI 49640 49640Frankfort, Onekama, 49675 49675 Onekama, MI Honor, 49675 MIOnekama, 49635 MIMI

800-444-6396 800-444-6396 800-262-5278 231-889-3456 231-889-3456 231-889-3456 FAX: FAX: 231-325-2115 231-325-2115 FAX: FAX: 231-889-3633 231-889-3633 FAX: 231-889-3633 FAX: 231-352-9562

1132 1132 Main Main Street Street Frankfort, Frankfort, MIMI 49635 49635

800-262-5278 800-262-5278

Family Owned Since 1963 FAX: FAX: 231-352-9562 231-352-9562

Dining RESTAURANT GUIDE | LOCAL FOODIE | DRINKS

More of The North in Jars | 50 Local Table: Glendale Ave. | 53 Five Fortified Wines | 55

TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

THE NORTH IN JARS AMERICAN SPOON 411 EAST LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY | 231.347.1739 Next year’s agri-bounty is dormant under a thick blanket of snow but lucky for us the folks at American Spoon jarred up the North’s best essences to get us through the winter. Spoon’s tidy emporiums in Traverse City, Charlevoix, Petoskey and Harbor Springs offer a diverse and delectable spectrum of small batch preserves, fruit butters, syrups and sweet toppings sourced through decades-old relationships with the region’s best farmers, foragers, beekeepers and sugar bushes. The Rashid family has a trove of James Beard, Sofi and Good Food awards to back their cred but the proof is in the preserves. Read on this month as we raid the winter pantry for the very best of the North in jars.

« FUDGE KISSED CLEMENTINES Dip peeled clementine segments halfway into gently warmed American Spoon Chocolate Fudge Sauce, place on wax paper. You’re welcome.

Douse with a light snow of sea salt flakes, if you like.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

FEB '19

49

dining | the jars of the north

IN THE JAR

AMERICAN SPOON | SALTED MAPLE CARAMEL & CHOCOLATE FUDGE SAUCE

BROWNWOOD FARMS | APPLE RIESLING SALSA

A dual shoutout to Spoon’s deservedly worshipped takes on caramel and chocolate sauce. Put them on citrus or sundaes or furtively scarf from an open fridge.

Orchard and vine conspire in this delicious dip that wants to be dolloped on cheese boards or used to glaze bone-in pork chops.

This sweet and spicy legacy of a Polish Petoskey grandmother is what every thicksliced smoked ham sandwich dreams about.

Also a great base for barbecue glazes.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT | BLUEBERRY LAVENDER PRESERVES

JAMPOT | WILD THIMBLEBERRY JAM

POND HILL FARM | CORN RELISH

Forager monks comb the Keweenaw wilds for sweet, tangy thimbleberries then cook them down in copper pots in the monastery kitchen. Invest in some artisan butter and take your toast to new heights.

From the Pond Hill family’s catalogue of vintage picklings, this sweet, tangy, subtly spiced relish is a choice sidecar for smoked fish or atop veggie burgers.

Cooked blueberries with a heady floral lift. Serve with vanilla gelato or pair with smoked duck breast.

MABS’ | ATOMIC MUSTARD

CITRUS WITH CARAMEL AND VANILLA MASCARPONE » INGREDIENTS ½ cup vanilla Greek yogurt ¼ cup mascarpone 1

teaspoon vanilla paste

1

ruby red grapefruit, peeled and cut into ¼ inch wheels

2

navel oranges, peeled and cut into ¼ inch wheels

1

blood orange, peeled and cut into ¼ inch wheels

American Spoon Salted Maple Caramel

Pomegranate seeds, optional

Sprinkle with pomegranate seeds, if desired.

50 50

MyNorth.com MyNorth.com

DAVE WEIDNER

METHOD In a small mixing bowl whisk together yogurt, mascarpone and vanilla paste. Spoon vanilla mascarpone onto a serving platter, arrange citrus wheels and drizzle with warm caramel.

restaurant guide | dining

Restaurant Guide

The Paper Station Fresh, relaxed and inventive foods. BLD • $ 145 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4546

Pierson's Grille & Spirits Ribs, whitefish, pizza, burgers and other staples of life. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 130 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2967 new Pour

Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL ST.,

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store.

LD • BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999

PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800

BLD: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner BAR: Alcohol served. $: Entrées under $10 $$: $10–20 $$$: Above $20 Water view

Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201 Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $

EMMET AND NORTH

422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

Mackinac Island Mackinaw City Pellston

Harbor Springs Petoskey Bay Harbor

Gaylord

Frankfort

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771

Traverse City

PETOSKEY/HARBOR SPRINGS/ CROSS VILLAGE/PELLSTON/ BAY ISLAND ManisteeHARBOR/MACKINAC Cadillac

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY,

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and composed salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL

7304 MAIN ST, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8255

Smokey Jose’s Water-side restaurant where BBQ and bourbon meet tacos & tequila. LD BAR $-$$ 7263 MAIN STREET MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0466

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY,

LD • BAR • $-$$ 230 FERRY AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2960

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E. JORDAN

SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

Vintage Chophouse/Wine Bar All-American steakhouseCHARLEVOIX/ANTRIM/OTSEGO/ flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$ INN

Scovie’s Gourmet Deli & Bake Shop Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistrostyle comfort food. LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX,

CRAWFORD/KALKASKA AT BAY HARBOR RENAISSANCE LAKE MICHIGAN GOLF RESORT, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051 Mackinaw City

Charlevoix

Petoskey

LD • BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

Boyne City East Jordan

Ellsworth

Bellaire

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D •

Gaylord

BAR • $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

Elk Rapids

Frankfort

Traverse City

Manistee

Kalkaska Grayling

ELK RAPIDS

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively sounds of Zydeco, jazz and blues. LD • BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530

Cadillac

BELLAIRE/BOYNE/WALLOON

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. LD • BAR $-$$$ 04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge— Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern—American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD •

Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. D, SUN. BRUNCH • BAR •

The Pelican’s Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads homemade desserts. D BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY

$-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR

(M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111

$$-$$$ 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY, 877.442.6464

CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour.

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY,

LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321

Siren Hall Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, LEELANAU fresh-off-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 151 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231. 264.6062

231.582.0049

Mackinaw City

Petoskey

BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR •

231.237.7827

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel.

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cuisine at Shanty Creek Resort with a view of Lake Bellaire.

Breakfast, lunch & dinner. The River Bistro—Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, Lunch, (spring-fall) Ivan’s Mountainside Gril—Schuss Village-Pub food. BLD • BAR 1 SHANTY CREEK RD.

231.439.9250

East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD •

Villa Ristorante Italiano Authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and hand-rolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887

231.347.0101

Huron Street Pub & Grill Classic pub food. LD BAR $-$$

ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

231.242.4777

215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981

Duffy’s Garage and Grille Pasta, burgers, inventive pizzas. LD • BAR • $$ 317 E LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3663

Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. LD • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE

Kelsey B’s Lakeside Food & Spirits Dine on burgers, steaks and fish and soak up the Lake Charlevoix views.

Chandler’s Art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$

new

That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037

Vernales Restaurant Chop house, sports bar and wine bar with patio dining. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3018 M119, HARBOR SPRINGS,

BL • $ 1900 US 31., PETOSKEY, 231.347.5583

PETOSKEY, 231.347.7570

OIX, 231.437.3612

BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

The Bistro Saucer-sized homemade pancakes, comfort food.

Cormack’s Deli Fabulous sandwiches, soups and bbq, open Mon.-Fri. 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. BL • $ 2569 CHARLEVOIX AVE.,

The Cantina Authentic Mexican in Van Pelt Alley behind Bridge Street. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 VAN PELT PLACE, CHARLEV-

ST., PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900

231.753.2221

City Park Grill Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY,

CHARLEVOIX/CENTRAL LAKE/ ELLSWORTH/EAST JORDAN

Northport Leland Empire Frankfort

Gaylord

Suttons Bay Glen Arbor Cedar Traverse City

LEELANAU COUNTY Manistee Cadillac

Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole.

BLD • BAR • $-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

The Bluebird Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the offseason. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081

Boone Dock’s Shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858

MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444

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FEB '19

51

dining | restaurant guide Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers.

LD • BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688

Big Cat Brewing Company Great comfort food including pot roast, perch and Southern-fried chicken, but now with house-brewed beer. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 8699 S. GOOD HARBOR TR., CEDAR, 231.228.2282

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MCFARLANE, MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

Garage Bar & Grill BBQ & bar eats. LD • BAR • $-$$ 108 S WAUKAZOO ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386. 5511

Joe’s Friendly Tavern Whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$ 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

Knot Just a Bar

Fish and burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019 BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393 La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3944

Leland Lodge Bogeys— BLD • BAR • $-$$ 565 PEARL ST., LELAND, 231.256.9848

Little Traverse Inn Old World gastro pub highlights the food and beer of the British Isles. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 149 E. HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY. 231. 228.2560

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR • $ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on scratch regional cuisine. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413

2/13 GALENTINE’S DAY HANG WORKSHOP 2/14 BLACK STAR FARMS VALENTINE’S HARVEST DINNER 2/14 THE ART OF: BREWING VALENTINE EDITION

N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

North Country Grill & Pub (Whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) , fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR • $$ 420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6692

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LDTRAVERSE • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH GRAND ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

Tucker’s of Northport Bistro-style casual fine dining.

Mackinaw City Meet. Dine. Bowl. LD • BAR • $-$$ 116 WAUKAZOO, NORTHPORT, 231.386.1061 Petoskey

Gaylord

2/14 AONACH MOR MOONLIGHT DINNER VALENTINES DAY

Old Mission

Frankfort

Manistee

2/16 ROMANCING THE RIESLING 2019

Acme Traverse City Interlochen

Cadillac

OLD MISSION PENINSULA

Boathouse Restaurant Casually elegant spot with great steaks, seafood, large local wine selection. Sunday brunch. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 14039 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4030

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. LD • BAR • $$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

TRAVERSE CITY—DOWNTOWN

Alliance James Beard-nominee Pete Peterson teams with up-and-coming chef James Bloomfield at this Warehouse District bistro. LD • BAR • $-$$ 144 HALL ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

MYNORTHTICKETS.COM // 800.836.0717 MyNorth is home of MyNorthTickets and Traverse Magazine

231.642.5545

Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch.

LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888

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local table | dining POP-UP GOODNESS

BRUNCH WITH GLENDALE AVE. TEXT BY CARLY SIMPSON

HANG OUT WITH THE MCCABES

DAVE WEIDNER

• Mammoth Distilling on Wednesdays from 6–9 p.m. for dinner “for the foreseeable future.” Trust me, order the pickle-brined fried chicken sandwich. And the crab rangoon, well, they're incredible.

• The Little Fleet every Sunday from 10 a.m.–2 p.m., coffee from BLK/MRKT Follow Glendale Ave. on Facebook and Instagram for more events as they pop up.

Smash burgers topped with hash browns and bacon. Breakfast nachos piled high with chorizo, pico de gallo and a sunny-side up egg. A focaccia recipe that’s been perfected over the past two years.

Bray and Brittney McCabe are upping the local brunch game in Traverse City at their pop-up restaurant Glendale Ave. On October 29, 2017, the McCabes had their first brunch at The Little Fleet. They hoped 40 people would show up. The final tally was 85. They sold out. “I needed a creative outlet after a long summer,” Bray says. “The Little Fleet was doing monthly pop-up events. Different chefs came in each month to serve food five or six days a week, but no one ever did Sundays, so I asked if I could make breakfast sandwiches.” They said yes.

Chefs Jen Blakeslee and Eric Patterson of The Cooks’ House offered the use of their kitchen at Milkweed inside Little Fleet.

“Which is crazy,” Brittney says, “because why would you trust us to do this? We didn’t have a menu or anything. We just knew we wanted to do a burger with an egg on it.” And they knew they wanted to represent their hometown, Saginaw. Glendale Avenue is the street Bray grew up on, and everything on the menu pays homage to their roots.

Fast forward to today. That burger with an egg is their bestseller.

Fondly called 989, Saginaw’s area code, it’s a smash burger topped with bacon, hash browns, spicy ketchup, American cheese—and an egg, of course.

So what’s this smash burger?

“You get your griddle screaming hot, put a ball of meat on it and literally smash it so it gets this amazing crust,” Bray says. “The burger cooks really quickly and gives it awesome caramelization.

Scrape it up off the pan so you get all that goodness, flip it over, throw some cheese on it. I’m passionate about smash burgers.”

What else are people loving on the menu? The Germania—loaded with pastrami, swiss and scrambled eggs—has developed a ride-or-die following. Hugo Sauce, named for the McCabe’s 9-year-old pug, is a spicy secret everyone needs in their life. And The Saginacho. “It’s nachos for breakfast,” Bray says. “I make my own nacho cheese sauce, throw a fried egg on top, crumble some bacon. They’re delicious.”

The couple can't say enough about all the people who helped make their vision a reality. “Gary (Jonas) was nice enough to let us use his space at Little Fleet. Jen and Eric had heard good things about me but didn’t really know me. The owners of Mammoth gave us a chance. Everyone has been so nice.”

“We owe so much to Folgarelli’s,” Brittney adds. “We’ve used their equipment and space, and all our prep work is done in their kitchen. We couldn’t have done it without them.”

Seriously, how sweet are the McCabes? They’ve been together since they were 14 and just celebrated their two-year anniversary.

Go to MyNorth.com/GlendaleAve to read a love story for our time.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

FEB '19

53

dining | restaurant guide Bay Bread Company Artisan breads, sandwiches, salads, soups. BLD • $ 601 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.8022 Bistro Fou Fou Chef Guillaume Hazaël-Massieux also of La Bécasse in Maple City brings his country French cooking downtown. LD • $$-$$$ 118 CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.6583 Blue Heron 2 Local ingredients used in homemade bread and soup and other scratch dishes like roasted vegetable breakfast bowl. BL • $ 408 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.2583

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with fromscratch farmer food. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515

Bubba’s Burgers, chimis, salads, tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

The Cooks’ House Sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-$$$ 115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700

Firefly Sushi, steaks and burgers. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST.,

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons.

Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$

CITY, 231.929.0900

717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

Warehouse Kitchen & Cork Seasonally inspired farmto-fork restaurant inside Hotel Indigo. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 263

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY,

WEST GRANDVIEW PARKWAY, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0500

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. D • BAR • $$$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000

McGee’s No. 72 Gourmet burgers, fries, pizza and other sophisticated bar food. D • BAR • $$ 4341 M72 E., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.8800

The Franklin Flatbread, salads, lamb and beef burgers, bistro dinners. LD • BAR • $-$$ 160 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31,

Frenchies Famous Three tables and carryout, offers superb hot sandwiches and espresso drinks. BL • $ 619 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1228

Georgina’s Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 236 E. FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1555

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, soups, salads and quiche. BL • $ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437

Smoke and Porter Public House A new American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG, 231.534.8888

Thai Café Eat in or take out authentic Thai cuisine in a cafe atmosphere. LD • $-$$ 1219 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1303

The Soup Cup, a MicroSouperie Homemade soups, grilled cheese, Belgian fries. L • $ 718 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.7687

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.6925

Mackinaw Brewing Co. House-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty char-burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR •

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2793

Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steak and burger house. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325

Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD • $-$$$ 237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9645

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7632

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh-sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips A new location for ultrafresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

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Tuscan Bistro Great patio, marina delivery and Mickey Cannon’s fresh bistro eats with Cajun and Italian influences.

BLD • BAR • $-$$ 12930 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, BENZIE / MANISTEE / WEXFORD 231.922.7795

West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Mackinaw City Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE new

CITY, 231.943.2922

Petoskey

Gaylord

Frankfort Beulah Benzonia

231.642.5020

127 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.486.6037

$$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100

231.929.8989

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

Harvest Hip Asian and Latin influenced menu. LD • BAR • $ Little Bohemia Famous Olive Burger featured on Food Network. Full menu. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 540 W. FRONT ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4648

The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

231.943.2727

Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30,

Traverse City

Onekama Manistee

Cadillac

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ ONEKAMA/BEULAH

Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails). BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY,

Lucky Dog Bar & Grill Fire-grilled brats, tacos, burgers, smoked wings, craft beer, wine, liquor. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S.

231.946.3991

BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499

Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872

Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST.,

Common Good Bakery Handmade pastries, bread, croissants, breakfasts, soups, sandwiches.. BL • $ 537 W 14TH

Yellow Dog Café Fabulous coffee, sandwiches, baked goods. LD $ 4850 MAIN ST, ONEKAMA, 231.508.5008

new

FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8002

The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted woodfired flatbreads and flavorful house brews. LD • BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

new Raduno Neighborhood deli featuring homemade pasta,

sausages, charcuterie and salads. LD • $-$$ 545 E EIGHTH ST., TRAVERSE CITY 231.421.118

Sauce at Incredible Mo’s Artisan pizza, pasta, salad in a kid-friendly atmosphere. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1355 SILVER LAKE CROSSINGS BLVD, GRAWN, 231.944.1355

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST

Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad.

LD • BAR • $$ 13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • $$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960

Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants!

Go to MyNorth.com/restaurants

wine | drinks

5

FORTIFIED WINES TO SIP TONIGHT

TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU

Fortified wines are made by dosing a fruit fermentation with brandy to slay the yeast, lock in residual sugar and amp the alcohol just enough to chase away a deep winter chill. The North’s bounty of orchards, briars and vineyards means there's plenty of prime fruit to use in building these tasty libations. Barrel aging, often for two years or more, is de rigueur for giving fortified wines their supple texture and allowing them to soak up sweet and spicy flavor components from the wood. Bust out your vintage cordial glasses, here we go.

Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com

« 45 NORTH | NORTHPOR+ A marriage of wine and brandy made from Marquette grapes and mellowed in used whiskey barrels. Copious black cherry, cocoa and coconut.

BLACK STAR FARMS | SIRIUS RASPBERRY A pure, bright and briary explosion of raspberry sweetness kept lithe with the fruit’s natural acidity.

BOWERS HARBOR | APPLETAGE Four varieties of frozen apples are pressed, fortified and barrel aged to craft this caramel-ly orchard elixir.

CHATEAU GRAND TRAVERSE | CHERRY RESERVE Cherry wine chills four years in oak before blending with cherry brandy for rich, supple reimagining of port.

GREENBIRD CELLARS | O’DOCE White grapes from Greenbird’s organic vineyards are blended and fortified into a sweet blond spirit with pear and apricot aromas.

PHOTO COURTESY OF FERMENTED PHOTO

PERFECT PAIRS

Fortified wines will happily fly solo as fireside sippers but don’t overlook their utility on the grazing table Charcuterie | Coarse country pâtés often get studded with dried fruit, which can start a delicious dialogue with the black fruit found in cherry and red grapebased dessert wines. White grape and apple-based libations jive best with silky boudin or chicken liver mousse.

Cheese | Use the sweetness in fortified wines to offset earthy, sharp and intensely salty cheeses like aged stilton, Roquefort or raw milk cheddar.

Dessert | Boost your dessert buzz by pouring dark fruit dessert wines alongside chocolate-based confections. The caramel and vanilla notes in barrel-aged apple or white brandy-based wines sing to orchard fruit tarts and custard.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

FEB '19

55

love of the land

Timbers Recreation Area PHOTO COURTESY NATE RICHARDSON, GTRLC

Though this Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy-protected destination is a favorite spot among Traverse City locals, it always feels like a secret oasis.

Says Jennifer Jay, Director of Communications and Engagement at GTRLC, “no public property exists within Long Lake Township—or anywhere that can be accessed so quickly and easily from Traverse City—that offers the variety of inland lake access, habitat diversity, and recreational opportunities found at the Timbers Recreation Area.”

At this former Girl Scout camp, winter lovers roam 4.4 miles of gently rolling trails over 250 acres, including 2,000 feet of frontage on Long Lake (pictured). Learn more about this and other protected areas at GTRLC.org.

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