FRESH AIR IN TRAVERSE CITY: OUT ON THE BREWERY TRAIL• NADA’S SHAWARMA TO GO
INSIDE: NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE THE OUTDOOR LIVING ISSUE!
ROAD TRIPPIN'
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Contents april | features
Discover more about Up North, people, places, food and events.
28
34
38 28 | THE MARVELOUS M22 Trace the entire path of Michigan’s most iconic highway, where there’s no shortage of big blue views and even bigger fun.
34 | DRIVING BIG MAC Crossing this famous bridge has been a Michigander’s rite of passage since 1957.
38 | JOY RIDE The seat of a vintage VW is an ideal throne to celebrate spring’s arrival. Come along as we whisk you away on the Tunnel of Trees.
PLUS | NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE (FOLLOWING PAGE 40)
Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |
APR ’19
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contents | departments
47 9 | EDITOR’S NOTE 13 | UP NORTH
19
Alden’s traveling country doc, smitten with signs...
17 | THIS IS MYNORTH Hang out with us online, on social and at MyNorth Tickets.
19 | APRIL EVENTS Showering you with fantastic reasons to get out and about.
23 | TRAVEL The dog-friendliest spots.
25 | UP IN MICHIGAN Road trip to Marquette.
41 | DINING Club Med across the North.
45 | LOCAL TABLE We break for pasties.
47 | DRINKS A Traverse City taproom tour.
48 | LOVE OF THE LAND
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10 Acres, Cooper Creek Rd, Freesoil Rare and Incredible. 276 ft of wide SANDY beach frontage ON LAKE MICHIGAN and 10.92 ACRES of beautifully wooded land...all wrapped up into one spectacular piece of Northern Michigan paradise. Adjacent to THOUSANDS OF ACRES of FEDERAL LAND on the East end of the property. Premium! Easy to build on and a nice, sandy stroll out to your own private beach frontage. Must see and walk this property in person to appreciate. Only about 11 miles North of Ludington and about 8 miles South of Manistee. Driving access to this property is down a beautifully wooded unpaved road, which leads to a private road easement, across Cooper Creek, on up to the property on your left. Located in the exclusive Cooper Creek Association: $150 Annual Dues covers road maintenance/snow removal. Surveyed! $825,000
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CHELSEA PARK II TRAVERSE CITY Butch Broad Developer/Builder 231-218-4965
Jerri Kindlinger Manager 231-645-5020
Introducing The Duplex at Chelsea Park II Privacy and location are key when it comes to the tranquil setting of Chelsea Park II. These 2BR/2BA, one-story condominiums offer a full, walk-out basement, natural gas fireplace, and twocar garage. Quality construction with updated amenities such as heated tile floor i n the master bath and quartz counter-tops throughout. There is still time to pick your finishes! All exterior maintenance, lawn care, and snow removal included in your low monthly association dues. Maintenance free living at it’s best!
Look for our model in the HBA Parade of Homes June 13-16, 2019
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A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL AND CONTENT EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS
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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Prism Publications Inc., 125 Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $27.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2019, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.
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APR ’19
7
150’ Lake Leelanau Frontage
Tucked at the end of a private road, this spacious 4 bedroom 3.5 bath home offers 150’ of private Lake Leelanau frontage, main floor master suite, den, guest house, loads of natural light and wrap-round deck. Enjoy mornings soaking in the hot tub, warm days sun bathing on the dock and sunsets with your toes in the water. Just 20 minutes from Traverse, 30 minutes to Sleeping Bear Dunes, minutes to the TART trail & several Leelanau wineries. A rare opportunity you do not want to pass up! 7200 Shugart Shores | MLS 1846823 | $ 895,000
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MAKE IT YOUR MOMENT. Plan the perfect golf vacation at CrystalMountain.com/Packages or call 866.348.9070
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editor’s note
THE TRAVEL BUG TEXT BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS
PHOTOS: TOP: DAVE WEIDNER // INSET: COURTESY DEB FELLOWS
W
elcome to our first issue where every feature is devoted to a great Northern Michigan road trip. We could not be more excited about this, as our shoulder seasons are perfect to explore the North during a slightly quieter time and, of course, what is better than gearing up for a summer road trip filled with fun at each stop... This theme is near and dear to my heart as I am a road tripper from way back. My mom spent her twenties driving around the U.S. on summers off from her work at a school. Then she loved nothing better than throwing her four kids into her convertible Olds 98 to head north or south. In those days we were footloose in the car, roaming its seats and foot wells at will, sometimes held in place by ridiculous amounts of groceries she’d packed so we’d be prepared when we arrived. Or, if we were going to my dad’s family in southern Illinois, we were all piled on a foam pad in the back of the station wagon at 4 a.m., untethered toddlers curled up like kittens; at least for a little while. Then it was endless games to keep us occupied, lots of songs and, as I can still slightly recall, squabbles. I never understood why they left for Illinois in the middle of the night until I had children. As we got older, there were harrowing trips to Florida through the Smokies
when it was still two lanes and each of my three siblings and I learned to hold on to the wheel and drive on through. As soon as I could, I was on the road myself, back and forth across the West and, since my parents moved south my freshman year of college, many, many straight through trips south. Hands down, some of my favorite tales are of things that happened on those road trips. Not a single one was the same. As soon as I moved Up North in my twenties, weekends were filled with
exploration: Driving to new places in the region to ski, hike, bike, eat, view, you name it. I married a man who could put everything he owned in his Honda Civic and fully expected some version of that to always be true. Road trips were music and an intoxicating sense of total freedom. Then we had kids. Four of them. Our era of parenting included car seats. Thank heavens for safety, but it came with its own challenges of children
harnessed in for long periods of time. I can now admit that on one road trip when our oldest was an infant and very, very unhappy with the amount of time he was spending in a car seat, I took him out somewhere between Florida and Atlanta. It was so unheard of, unthinkable really, that I can still conjure up the feelings of terror I felt during those minutes. Never did that again. Given our history, it was only natural that road trips would be a huge part of lives with our kids. Singing, yes. Some games. But, absolutely, books on tape. We drove through Colorado and Wyoming listening to a fantastic audio performance of Star Wars. Peter and the Starcatcher got us to Williamsburg. And thank you, Harry Potter. From trips in Northern Michigan to the West, we had endless hours of watching the landscape drift past like a painting as we rode, lost in life at Hogwarts. It was not at all uncommon for us to arrive home from a trip and stay in the car a bit to hear the last of a chapter of a book. Our road trips were like a traveling cocoon, all together, sharing a space and a time that I knew was exceedingly precious. But as they got older, there was one more thing that contributed ultimately to an ongoing joy of road trips. When my kids were young, we made the decision not to have Nintendo or Xbox in the house. You can only imagine how4
Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |
APR ’19
9
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editor’s note
well that went as three boys and their sister grew older. Our first foray into the electronic game world was Gameboys, handheld video game players. We said that the Gameboys were for car trips if we were traveling for an hour or more. We never, ever got in the car again without them begging for a longer trip somewhere. We took fabulous trips with them around the country as older kids. But even more, we explored the North with them on weekends; hiked and biked, swam and skied, all over Northern Michigan. And while they sometimes missed the landscape along the way, they grew to know the region as a place filled with adventure wherever we landed. The days of being able to pile them all in a car at will got harder as they grew older. We did end up with an Xbox eventually. And, of course, there is the concern about the impact of cars so we now own a hybrid electric car that gets us everywhere on electric daily. But I’m afraid the die was cast on road trips; we love them. Well into their late teens we were still listening to books in the car with our kids, or sharing music, still recognizing that when the six of us got into a car together we were sharing that peculiar gift of road trips, a one-ofa-kind sense of adventure wrapped in the cozy intimacy of a car. And now it’s their turn to hit the road. So, explore these pages, then pile in with friends, kids, pets, significant others or all on your own. Whatever makes up your traveling cocoon, be lulled by the splendor of the spectacular landscapes of these road trips and the discoveries at every stop. And revel in the intimacy that comes from time together, in one space and time, in search of new adventures. It’s worth every minute.
Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth. debwf@traversemagazine.com.
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SPRING BREAKING
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Up North
PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES
A NORTHERN NEIGHBOR
The Traveling Doctor Becoming a small-town doctor in the 21st Century was (almost) always the dream for Dr. Bruce Lirones, who is also a music enthusiast and musician, playing trumpet for many years in the NMC jazz bands and bass with family and friends in a garage band. He practices in Rapid City, and he and his photographer wife, Lisa, live on Clam Lake, where they raised their sons Brett (now with T.C.’s Hagerty Insurance) and Luke (studying to become an optometrist). Why did you go into medicine? My dad was a doctor in the city [Flint] and I didn’t want his job. I never saw him. The dentist in our subdivision came home at 4:30. I thought, “He’s got a great job.” So I was going to be a dentist. I changed my mind on the last day to apply for medical school. I decided I wanted to be a country doctor, a family doctor from a different era. It’s more of a calling, like being a pastor. I was lucky I got to do want I wanted.
PHOTO BY LISA LIRONES
How did you end up in Northern Michigan? My mom’s hometown was Mancelona. The family moved to Flint, and my Mom’s dad built the third cottage on Bear Lake (between Kalkaska and Grayling). It’s a onebedroom cottage and the kit to build it was $250. Dr. Wilmer Glenny in Bellaire went to med school with my dad and whenever we went up north we’d go see him. Doc Glenny picked us up at the 4 Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |
APR ’19
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up north | what's up
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Clam River Bridge in a boat and I thought it was the biggest boat in the world. I loved it Up North. I moved up here to recapture my childhood. My boys came along for the ride. I’ve had a crazy (second) childhood. I was told, “You can’t play guitar.” Now I’ve got ten. “You’ve got to play in the orchestra.” So I joined a jazz band. What’s it like, being a small-town doctor? I was the youngest kid in my med school. I was 26 when I started practicing. I’d walk in and they’d say, “Go get your dad.” People had a hard time understanding why a kid wanted to be a country doc. Every day I go to work for my friends. All these people have become my friends. I still like it (although) I hate making diagnoses of these horrible diseases. How different is it than when you started? We have open-heart surgery in Traverse City. There were no heart cath labs—you had to go to Grand Rapids. You look at all sorts of technology. It gives you better outcomes. I think my patients live a little longer, a little better, come back from surgery better. For my patients, I trap the bear, the specialists skin it. I figure out what’s wrong, get them to the right person. On July 19, 1983, I opened my office in Alden. Back then I’d work shifts at the Kalkaska ER, deliver babies and do surgery at the Osteopathic Hospital. Back then it was just fun. It was a big, fun, full life. Now I collect data for the government and insurance, fill out paperwork. Am I still making a positive impact on my community? I do still make house calls. What's the oddest thing you’ve had happen? I had a guy come up to me and say, “Doc, I’ve got a boil on my butt.” He then showed me. I was sitting in a restaurant, and my boys were little kids, maybe 3 and 7. They were horrified. —Ross Boissoneau
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what's up | up north
A GOOD SIGN When our Art Director, Gail Snable, travels through Michigan’s Upper Peninsula she heeds the impulse to pull over for old signs with handcrafted flair. Here’s a sampling of her photographs of these beloved signs, with a little backstory: “My junior year of college, I got a summer job at a sign shop—mostly to pay my tuition at Kendall, but selfishly because I loved hand lettering (way before it was cool) and wanted to get my hands dirty (because I'm a tomboy). This sign shop wasn't just any sign shop. The focus was handcarved and routed redwood signs as well as traditional hand-painted signs. It was named ‘In Other Woods’—not even kidding. We did everything from large golf course orders to signage for locals’ cabins. This is where my fascination of vintage signs came to be—as well as gaining a second family that I love. They have since dissolved the sign shop, opened and recently retired from running The Old Spud Warehouse in Gaylord. The signs I’m drawn to most are along US 2—they are amazing and have not given in to the vinyl or plastic of this era. I love those that are routed with retro fonts. My favorites by far are signs with cutout letters adhered to unusual and creative backgrounds. They are classic and loved.”—Gail Snable
Shoot Retro-Style These were photographed with the HUGI Cam app. Says Gail, “If you don't have it, get it! It gives a little digital time stamp and the streak of light we would get from the old-school cameras of the '70s.” Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |
APR ’19
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4/11 SOLACE AND SOLIDARITY: SUPPORTING SURVIVORS OF SEXUAL VIOLENCE
Head to MyNorth.com/Bingo to print a Michigan-inspired bingo board, and keep the kids entertained during summer road trips Up North.
Milliken Auditorium
4/13 BLACK STAR FARMS HARVEST DINNER: HOOP HOUSES Inn at Black Star Farms
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July 19th - 27th AuSable River Festival July 26th Paddle Battle October 5th Harvest festival November 16th Christmas walk
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4/11 JOSHUA DAVIS, SOLO, “LIVE AT THE ROBIN” RELEASE PARTY Orpheum Theater, Hancock
4/21 EASTER BRUNCH Black Star Farms, Suttons Bay
4/23 BRYS ESTATE WINE DINNER The Cook’s House, Traverse City
EXCELLENT DINING • RIVERSIDE LODGING FLY FISHING CLASSES • AND MORE!
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Gates Au Sable Lodge • Grayling www.gateslodge.com • 989-348-8462 MyNorth.com
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800.836.0717 // MYNORTHTICKETS.COM // TRAVERSE CITY
TIX Look for this symbol in our Events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.
April E D I T E D B Y L I B B Y S TA L L M A N
FRI
5
SAT
6
SAT
13 SUN
14
Music | Aguankó, a
talented group of Michiganbased musicians steeped in the tradition of jazz-infused Son-Salsa, perform at Milliken Auditorium in Traverse City. dennosmuseum.org
And More | The Cajun Creole
Cooking Class at Chateau Chantal makes you feel like you’ve been down on the bayou in Louisiana. chateauchantal.com
Nature | Grass River Natural
Area hosts a spring bird walk in beautiful Bellaire. Learn to identify birds by sight and sound. grassriver.org
Theater | At the 8th Annual
Young Playwrights Festival, enjoy six original one-act plays produced and performed for the first time on the City Opera House stage. Written by regional high school students. cityoperahouse.org
SAT
20
And More | Coffee and
conversation with Green Elk Rapids and HERTH to celebrate Earth Day, 9-10:30 a.m. greenelkrapids.com
SAT
And More | Plan an Up
MON
Literary | Elementary students
TUE
And More | Boyne
27
SUN
21 FRI
26
HAPPY EASTER
Theater | The Who's Tommy
is a classic rock opera that tells the story of a deaf, dumb and mute boy who becomes a world-famous Pinball Wizard and the leader of a cult of devotees. Old Town Playhouse. MyNorthTickets.com
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North Wedding! Spend the day on Leelanau peninsula touring 10 wineries and venues, meeting vendors & creating your dream wedding! MyNorthTickets.com
catch a bus to the Charlevoix Library on Mondays for AfterSchool Chapter Choppers, a club dedicated to learning more about outer space. charlevoixlibrary.org Appétit! Restaurant Week: Visit Boyne City and surrounding areas for exceptional restaurants, breweries and food retailers. April 29-May 5. petoskeyarea.com
FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS
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SATU R DAY A PR I L 27, 1 0 AM - 5 PM
Sip wine, meet with top vendors, and plan your dream wedding!
Early Bird Tickets on Sale for a Limited Time! PARTICIPATING WINERIES 45 North Vineyard, Amoritas Vineyards, Aurora Cellars, Black Star Farms, Boathouse Vineyards, Ciccone Vineyard, Laurentide Winery, Leelanau Cellars, Rove Estate, and Two K Farms.
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april | events
Literary Save yourself a trip. Call ahead to verify all times and dates. Find more events at MyNorth.com
Art
Please find more Art events at MyNorth.com.
2019 Crooked Tree Arts Center Youth Art Show in Petoskey: 13
Artwork created by Char-Em ISD and home-school students, Kindergarten through Grade 12, will be on display during the Youth Arts Festival. The opening reception is Saturday, April 13 from 2-4pm. Awards for exhibiting high school students will be announced at the Youth Arts Awards Night on Wednesday, April 24 at 7pm. crookedtree.org
Fairs, Festivals and Holidays
Please find more Fairs, Festivals and Holidays at MyNorth.com.
Mackinaw Raptor Fest: 5-7
A great little birding event at the tip of Michigan's mitten, Mackinaw Raptor Fest appeals to anyone who loves to watch and learn about bird migration. Excellent programming includes five presenters from the Eastern Golden Eagle Working Group. This coalition of state and federal biologists, research scientists, wildlife managers, and activists meet in Mackinaw City. The three-day event provides great views of migrating raptors and interesting educational workshops. mackinawraptorfest.org Traverse City Chocolate Festival: 7
Michigan’s largest Chocolate Festival, with special tastings and samples, door prizes and live music. Check out the new venue this year at the Park Place Hotel. This is a fundraiser for the Northwest Food Coalition. tcchocolatefestival.com Easter Egg Hunts: 20
Downtown Frankfort hosts the annual egg hunt at 10am sharp, Mineral Springs Park. The Easter Egg Hunt in Benzonia takes place from 1-2pm at Memorial Park. Charlevoix’s Easter Egg Hunt begins at 2pm at East Park. 83rd Annual Trout Festival: 25-28
Celebrate the opening of trout season in Northern Michigan with fishing contests, a parade, live entertainment, steam train excursions and much more at the National Trout Festival in Kalkaska. nationaltroutfestival.com
Kids
Please find more Kids events at mynorth.com and/or subscribe free to Kids Up North at MyNorth.com/kids.
Celebration for Young Children: 27
Enjoy a day of fun for the entire family, with many handson activities, performances and entertainment in shops throughout Downtown Traverse City. downtowntc.com
Wings of Wonder Presentation at Horizon Books: 27
Please find more Literary evets at MyNorth.com.
An Evening with Lisa Scottoline: 15
Bestselling and award-winning author Lisa Scottoline reaches new heights with the riveting novel, Someone Knows, about how our past can derail our present and how not guilty doesn’t always mean innocent. Lisa Scottoline is the New York Times bestselling author and Edgar Awardwinning author of thirty-two novels. Scottoline also writes a weekly column with her daughter, Francesca Serritella, for The Philadelphia Inquirer, and those universally beloved stories have been adapted into a series of bestselling memoirs. In addition to writing, Lisa reviews popular fiction and nonfiction, and her reviews have appeared in The New York Times, The Washington Post, and The Philadelphia Inquirer. Guest host Cynthia Canty joins Scottoline for the National Writers Series at the City Opera House, Traverse City. nationalwritersseries.org
Live raptors accompany each and every program so audience members have the opportunity for a close up look at these magnificent birds. A hands-on display of raptor artifacts including wings, talons, feathers, pellets, and photos are also available at each presentation. Downtown Traverse City. horizonbooks.com
Theater
Please find more Theater evets at MyNorth.com.
Pilgrim, Her Story: 5-7
Apr. 2 & 23: Edward Jones, Social Security on April 2 and Medicaid on April 23. Apr. 6 Prom Dress Closet. Apr. 10 Teen Program: Edible Stress Ball. Apr. 15 BookTalkers: Rebecca. Apr. 16 Robert Downes: Life in Native America 400 Years Ago. Apr. 17 Technology Class: eBook Drop In. Apr. 29 WinterFolk Concert Series: Bruce Ogden and Scott McCarthy. charlevoixlibrary.org
Purity Ring Family Theatre presents their 16th annual spring production, Pilgrim, Her Story, a contemporary musical adaptation based on John Bunyan's classic work, Pilgrim's Progress. Pilgrim, Her Story presents the story of a teen girl on a journey to find meaning in her life. Along the way, she meets many people who either encourage or discourage her as she copes with disappointment and tragedy. The musical powerfully deals with many issues today's teen faces including bullying, peer-pressure, and depression. This is a moving production that offers the audience hope and encouragement. Performed in the beautiful new theater, The Great Lakes Center for the Arts, Bay Harbor. Not recommended for children under age 6. MyNorthTickets.com
Music
And More
Western Michigan University Gold Company: 5
Weekend Dinners at the Inn at Black Star Farms: 5, 12, 19, 26
Events at Charlevoix Library
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Please find more Music evets at MyNorth.com.
Please find more And More evets at MyNorth.com.
The nation’s top collegiate vocal jazz ensemble, Gold Company is an internationally regarded and award-winning vocal jazz ensemble from Western Michigan University. Graduates of the program are currently touring with artists such as Stevie Wonder, Sheryl Crow, Taylor Swift, Sting, and Liza Minnelli. Enjoy their performance at West Shore Community College, Scottville. General admission tickets available at MyNorthTickets.com Cheeseburger in Paradise: A Tropical Rock Extravaganza: 6
This is the perfect antidote for a long, cold winter! Jim, Doc & Donna of Peter, Paul & Mary Remembered fame warm up the Old Town Playhouse with the best of Jimmy Buffet, beach music and Tropical Rock. Enjoy a real party with beach balls flying, a limbo stick, and a contest for the wildest, most colorful tropical shirt. With the happy sounds of California Dreamin’ meeting up with Buffet’s Florida groove, your winter blues will disappear. Plan to change your attitude and your latitude with a Margarita and a cheeseburger. Traverse City. MyNorthTickets.com
Nature
Enjoy an intimate 3-course dining experience at the exclusive Inn at Black Star Farms. The culinary team, winner of the Best Classic Food & Wine Pairing at the 2017 Grand Rapids International Wine, Beer & Food Festival, has created a special prix fixe menu to accompany their wines and help you warm up on a chilly day. Dinner includes one glass of house wine. Additional wine may be purchased for an extra cost. MyNorthTickets.com Special Dinners at The Cooks’ House: 9, 22
Apr. 9: Five course dinner paired with the spirits from Iron Fish Distillery. Apr. 22 Each year Chefs Jen and Eric search out the best young cooks cooking in the area's restaurants and have them cook a dinner featuring food of their own creation. Two dinners for this event at 5:30 and 8:30pm. Traverse City, 231.946.8700. MyNorthTickets.com Annual Titanic Dinner: 13
All aboard! This annual dinner is an event not to miss! The evening includes fabulous dinner, live entertainment and a historical presentation at Stafford’s Perry Hotel, Petoskey. staffords.com
Please find more Nature evets at MyNorth.com.
Earth Day Tree Planting: 20
Bring your family and friends to the Consuelo Diane & Charles L. Wilson Jr. Working Forest Reserve in Harbor Springs and help plant 1,000 trees to accompany those planted last spring.10am-2pm. landtrust.org
Libby Stallman is calendar editor of Traverse. Enter your event information at MyNorth.com/events two to three months prior to event date. Questions or more information email Libby@mynorth.com.
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what to do | travel
HAVE DOG, WILL TRAVEL You won’t be disappointed with these pooch-friendly adventures. Just utter the words, “Want to go for a ride?”
SOAK UP THE HISTORY at Colonial Michilimackinac in
TEXT BY KIM SCHNEIDER
HUNT FOR PETOSKEY STONES, together, (or just play some
CATCH A FLICK from the comfort of your car at Honor’s Cherry Bowl Drive-in, where all movies are at most PG rated and dogs are invited. When it’s time to stretch two- and four legs, there’s 50s era fun such as mini-golf or hula hoop contests. CHERRYBOWLDRIVEIN.COM
TASTE WINE at Rudbeckia Farm and Winery near Walloon Lake. Owners set out dog treats and water bowls for visiting pups, wine, beer and cider for the humans, and all love hanging out at bocce and corn hole courts. RUDBECKIAFARM.COM
Mackinac City, where dogs are welcome on tours—especially if they’re good with British soldiers and the blast of the vintage weapons they occasionally fire. MACKINACPARKS.COM
fetch) on pet-friendly Good Harbor Beach in Glen Arbor, part of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.
HOP IN A CANOE OR KAYAK at Borchers in Grayling, where friendly dogs can float along the beautiful Au Sable River and love the public places to park and picnic along the way—be sure to bring a leash. Then, cold water for Fido and small-batch brews for you await on the patio at Paddle Hard Brewing, Michigan Ave., downtown. CANOEBORCHERS.COM, PADDLEHARDBREWING.COM
SEARCH FOR COPPER at Delaware Mine Tour. Pets are PADDLE WITH THE POOCH at Oscoda Canoe Rental, where dogs can help navigate the river and love the plentiful sandbars for an easy park and splash. OSCODACANOE.COM
BRING THEM ONBOARD the ferries to pet-friendly Mackinac Island and then to the Upper Peninsula and an unforgettable self-steering raft trip over 40-foot deep Kitch-iti-Kipi Springs within Palms Book State Park.
welcome on the popular mine tour in Mohawk; for more fun, there’s guided copper sleuthing in poor rock piles. DELAWAREMINETOURS.COM
Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she's the author of the recently-published book, 100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die. kimschneider.net
MEET MISSION POINT’S FURRY AMBASSADOR The chance to pet Nick, the bird-chasing border collie at Mission Point Resort on Mackinac Island, has become some guests’ reasons for return visits. They become so attached to the tail-wagging concierge, that many take home his plush likeness from the gift shop; watching him in action is fun, too. Trained to herd sheep, he’s become expert at keeping geese where they belong, ie: not on the pretty, wide lawn peppered with Adirondack chairs. Book the “Pooch at the Point” package. MISSIONPOINT.COM
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A rare opportunity to have two private lakes without the price of two private lakes, plus a sweet, tidy cabin situated nicely in 140 acres. The lakes are beautiful, swimmable and fishable and the land is iconic U.P. with lots of pines. $490,000
The Trout Pond Home Your own trout pond, 20 acres and a spacious quality home is within a 30-minute drive of Marquette. This well-built and perfectly maintained white cedar log home is lovely, but when you add the 20 acres of quiet woods and the swimmable, fishable trout pond, it enters into the realm of superb. $329,000
This home gives you 500 feet of Lake Superior, 500 feet of Saux Head Lake, 5 bedrooms, 4 fireplaces, and an easy 14 mile drive to Marquette. This property also comes with a jointlyowned 640-acre forestland and mile of undeveloped Lake Superior beach. $1,395,000
HUEY REAL ESTATE | upwaterfront.com Discover the beauty, power, and magic of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. halleyuplakes@gmail.com | (906) 228-8889
essay | up in michigan
Bridges Four generations. Two peninsulas. One Michigan family’s epic road trip. TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS
I’ve dressed for the occasion: a red and black flannel lumberjack shirt—just the thing for a weekend in the Upper Peninsula. Walking-checkerboard that I am, my daughter, Cassidy, spots me easily outside my office at MyNorth Media in downtown Traverse City. She pulls into the parking lot across the street and we squeeze my overnight back into the hatch that is already stuffed with a portable crib, strollers, diapers, duffels … the essentials needed to mobilize the tow-headed duo strapped into their seats in the back. Silent for the moment, they are Ethan Robert Fisher, just over 2 years old, and his 6-month-old brother, Simon Chase Fisher; my grandsons. Their great grandmother (Cassidy’s grandma, my mom … you get it) is in the passenger seat. Mimi is 86. The plan is for Gamma Liss, as I am called, to wedge her hips between the boys’ car seats for the nearly five-hour drive. Our dress rehearsal several days before proved that it worked. My daughter and I have joked that we are crazy to attempt this trip. But with teamwork, we got this. It is a joyously beautiful trip up the Lake Michigan coast during which we
call out bridges to Ethan—over the Elk River, the marvelous drawbridge in Charlevoix—and promise him one big, giant, huge bridge to come. And not long after that, we will see Uncle Keef. My youngest child and only son, he is in his senior year at Northern Michigan University and the purpose of this trip. Born on her birthday, Keef is the light of Mimi’s life—a devotion Keef has always returned, but in double measure since my divorce nearly a decade ago, when Grandma was a sweet island of comfort in his life. Mimi wouldn’t miss this trip to see Keef for the world. Just how epic it is for her, however is spelled out in her confusion over the geography of our route. A brilliant social studies teacher who could once name the Great Lakes in her sleep, she can no longer envision a mental map of Michigan, Huron and Superior. As Cassidy and I gently work to remind her of the shape of Michigan and where Lake Michigan meets Lake Huron under the Mackinac Bridge, Ethan crumbles a pink wafer cookie to the consistency of glacial till and smears the backseat in sticky streaks. Meanwhile, Simon,
whose serious, blue-eyed stare has all but penetrated me down to our shared mitochondrial DNA, begins to howl. This happens as we are about to cross the Mackinac Bridge. And does any Michigander ever really take that lightly? The people of our state come in two distinct categories: the inside-laners who prefer bumping across the noisy grate-covered lane to driving perilously close to the bridge edge; the outsidelaners who breeze along, making sure to take their eyes off the asphalt ahead of them to soak in that beautiful blue over the railing. My daughter is an outside laner. As the iron-ore docks and smoke stacks of Marquette Harbor come into view, we have Ethan chanting “Uncle Keef, Uncle Keef, Uncle Keef …” Not long after we are settled into our motel, my son appears, bearing Thai carryout from our loved Rice Paddy restaurant. It’s not just Ethan bouncing off the walls with excitement. The next morning, Keef tells us he’d like to take us on a hike along the Dead River Falls. He will carry Simon in a front pack; Ethan will be on Cassidy’s back. My only job is to keep up. 4
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St. Ignace Car Show Weekend
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The BIG Car Show with Small Town Charm The 2019 St. Ignace Car Show Weekend will mark 44 years of the community’s love affair with the automobile, making this small town event one of the best car shows in Michigan and the US. St Ignace hosted its first car show in 1976, as part of the Bicentennial celebration. Over 40 years later, show founder and visionary Ed Reavie, views his years of building the St. Ignace Car Show as a “lifelong journey” – one he never expected but nevertheless one he has embraced. Ed captured his journey in his recent book, “Car Show Culture” published in 2010 by Arcadia Publishing. In 2015 Mr. Reavie sold his company, Nostalgic Productions, to the St. Ignace Visitors Bureau. He continues to support the show as consultant, historian and master story teller. Ed was instrumental in forming the team of specialty automotive experts that are building the show’s future under the direction of the St. Ignace Visitors Bureau. Team members include John Jendza III (Top Hat John), Chuck “Cowboy” Leighton, Murray Pfaff (Pfaff Designs) and Doni “Head Chick In Charge” Langdon of Throttle Gals. Over the years, the St. Ignace Car Show Weekend has seen it’s share of industry experts, celebrities and thousands of all-make, all-model antique and custom automobiles. The event draws twenty five to thirty thousand visitors every year.
2019 St. Ignace Car Show Weekend Highlights • Show expanded to four days, June 27-30 • Guest of honour - Dennis Gage of My Classic Car • Master Builder – Gary “Boogieman” Zaborowski • Thursday Antiques on the Bay show • Friday Parade and Cruise Night • Drive In Movie Night • Top 40 and Pro Picks on Saturday • Winners Circle and Awards Ceremony on Sunday • New!! Pfaff Designs St. Ignace Cup presented by AMSOIL. • Event updates and registration information at stignacecarshow.com
essay | up in michigan
Sadly, there is no way to bring Mimi on this trail that winds over rocks, a jungle of exposed tree roots and along a cliff. But Keef assures her he has a treat to make up for it. So before our hike, we follow his car as he drives, up, up, up a washed-out dirt road that switchbacks Marquette Mountain. Near the top he pulls onto the shoulder and we do the same. “Come with me,” he says as he opens the passenger seat door to gently help his grandma out of the car. Facing a slight slope littered with boulders she pauses, bewildered. “You can do it,” he says, taking her arm. I take the other, Cassidy and her boys follow behind. She struggles, but proudly, and we make it to the top. Dizzying feet below, a hearty swath of our country’s Northern border is mapped out in cobalt blue. “I thought you’d want to see this view, Mimi,” Keef says. The jolt of beauty, the expanse of sky and Lake Superior, the sense of accomplishment, the fact that her grandson had done something so special for her—it is almost beyond her comprehension. She stares, blinking, processing, thanking. From her jauntier step back down to the car, we know she grasps the significance of his gift to her. That night, with our hikes precious memories, Mimi and I sleep like babies. Not so for Cassidy in the room next door. I notice the gray circles under eyes as we hug Keef goodbye. She takes the wheel, but when I see her fight to stay awake I insist on driving; she relents. We swap seats in Munising, and two hours later, as the car hums over Big Mac’s inside-lane grating, my passengers are all asleep. Except Simon. The reflection in the baby mirror catches him wide awake, gazing adoringly at his mama’s sleeping face.
Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Traverse. lissa@traversemagazine.com
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ROLL WITH US ON A FABLED TWO-LANE AND DISCOVER TRUE-BLUE HAPPINESS ALONG THE WAY.
EMPIRE BEACH / EMPIRE
MANISTEE TO FRANKFORT The highway that began as a series of Native American trails and that was, by 1915, “autoroute” to the tourist wonders of Northern Michigan, begins on the northern edge of the city of Manistee. A mile into it you are in forests and countryside, when quickly there comes the tiny town of Onekema, set along Portage Lake. The historic Blue Slipper Tavern, which has been around since the 1800s, serves up Friday night fish fry and other homemade specials until May. That’s when food trucks take over, on rotation in the parking lot of this classic watering hole. The Glenwood is on the other side of town. Guests come for the whitefish or perch tower, but it’s the peanut butter pie they leave with—returning the empty plates on the doorstep under cover of darkness. Out of Onekema, M22 rises into Northern Michigan farmland, and with it comes the farmstands. You’ll want an empty trunk and a spare cooler. At mile 11, Miller’s is laden in summer with berries, cherries and peaches. Farther on another stand offers up both fruit and locally sourced treasures for rock hounds. Turn left off M22 on 13 Mile toward Pierport, where lumber was loaded from train to ship back in the mid to late-1800s, and the road dead-ends at a pretty little Lake Michigan beachfront. Adjacent is a small park and “Old Faceful,” the first of numerous natural springs that dot this region. No more than a pipe stuck into the earth, water bubbles out of it, deliciously icy cold.
Back on M22, barreling north and west, it’s orchards that surround until at last Arcadia Bluffs looms on its perch above Lake Michigan. This impressive links-style golf course was built to resemble Irish seaside courses—a fact that hits home summer evenings when a course-employed bagpiper sends Gaelic strains across the surrounding heath. Down from the bluffs, the sweet, cottagey town of Arcadia is framed in the windshield. Straddling Lake Michigan and Arcadia Lake, Arcadia grew up in the lumber era when a narrow gauge railway connected the local lumbering industry with the Starke mill at the end of Lake Arcadia. From here, M22 slides past peeks of Lake Michigan to the west and wildflower-studded forests on the east. Near the crest of a big winding hill, pull over at Arcadia Scenic Turnout (known locally as Inspiration Point) for the shockblue panorama—a true memory imprinter that teaches in one horizon-sized picture the stunning vastness of Lake Michigan. Climb the 120 wooden steps to a viewing platform and soak it in. Back in the car, it’s less than a mile to Arcadia Dunes, a tract of preserved dunes that are the geological smaller sibs to the more famous Sleeping Bear Dunes to the north. Pulling over to hike Baldy Trail to a dune-top scenic overlook is definitely worth the effort. From the trailhead it’s about four miles to Watervale Inn—the kind of vintage resort you wish there were more of—wedged along Lake Michigan and Lower Herring Lake. The old-timey buildings
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date back to a lumber-company town established here in 1892. The property, that includes a mile of shoreline on Lake Michigan and Lower Herring Lake, has been a resort since 1917, and owned by the same family all the while. Put booking a stay here on your bucket list, or at least make a reservation for their acclaimed dinners, open to the public. FRANKFORT TO EMPIRE Once a major port for carferries crossing Lake Michigan to Wisconsin, Frankfort has reinvented itself as one of the hippest harbor towns on Lake Michigan. The genesis of that cool is at Stormcloud Brewing on Main Street, one of Michigan’s premier microbrews that sits next to the Garden Theater, a renovated small-town movie house. The town boasts a first-class Lake Michigan beach known for its breakwater, lighthouse and rolling surf that attracts surfers in all seasons. Return to M22 from here and the byway passes Crystal Lake, Caribbean-blue and dotted with sailboats and swimmers; to the west, just beyond woodlands and sand dunes, is Lake Michigan, as well as the photogenic Point Betsie Lighthouse (a landmark since 1858) with its windswept beach. From here, M22 skirts past Chimney Corners Resort—with its all-new Rocks Landing Restaurant jutting above Crystal Lake—and then into the southern gateway of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore whose 35 jaw-dropping miles hug M22’s midsection. Here, the Old Indian Trail is made for peaceful summer hikes. Just when you think there would be nowhere to eat around here, the 40-yearold Manitou Restaurant, (famed for its lake
perch and Great Lakes whitefish dinners) pops up along the forest-lined road. Next up: Platte River, which flows under M22 in lazy, minnow-clear shallows, along grassy wetlands, and between sandy dunes before emptying into the vast Lake Michigan, making for easygoing inner-tube floats and paddling excursions. Riverside Canoe Trips has been outfitting drifters with canoes and tubes—and more recently, kayaks—since 1964. Reservations are a wise choice at all of the liveries along this popular stretch of river. If a tubing trip isn’t in the cards today, but you’d still like to dip a toe in the water...numerous other jumping off—or in—points proliferate along the way. Just north, at the end of Esch Road, Otter Creek winds into Lake Michigan at just one of many idyllic beaches in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. If you’re driving through in spring, keep eyes peeled: This is asparagus country and it grows no better anywhere else. Watch for roadside signs that point the way to Norconk’s honor system stand that delivers up crisp, tender stalks daily. EMPIRE TO LELAND In Empire find the mega-popular Lake Michigan Beach Park, a sandy strip of shoreline wedged between South Bar Lake and Lake Michigan. This friendly downtown is also home to Sleeping Bear Surf and Kayak (surf lessons, anyone?) Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate—with its handmade truffles and bonbons—and Shipwreck Cafe, a tiny outpost with irresistible sandwiches. This town also serves up Joe’s Friendly Tavern, where no one I know has ever been nearly kicked out for dancing on the tables on, say, a snowy New Year’s Eve.
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The Sleeping Bear Dunes Visitors Center just off M22 is an Empire must-stop. This is the place to learn about everything this glorious park has to offer from the nearby Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive and Dune Climb to maritime history. Follow M22 across the Glen Lake Narrows Bridge (where jumping from the railing is as much a rite of passage to kids both local and summer, as it is illegal) and its view across Little Glen Lake of the glowing Sleeping Bear Dunes. Fronting M22 in Glen Arbor you’ll find Boonedocks, where the deck rocks with live music all summer; iconic Art’s Tavern with its equally iconic owner, Tim Barr; and the M22 Glen Arbor store where you can get that M22 T-Shirt you’ll want to wear in Kathmandu. More good stuff awaits on this town’s side streets: Cherry Republic, an emporium of all things cherry, and Synchronicity Gallery, known for extreme devotion to Michigan artists. Cross over sandy-bottomed Crystal River and past a historic mill currently being renovated/rescued by a young visionary, and the highway dog-legs right. Just past is the entrance to the four-season resort, The Homestead. Some pretty twists and bends north, the resort’s grand lawn and flowerbeds give way to the lost-in-time farmsteads of the Port Oneida Historic District. Stop in at the headquarters, a calendar-perfect red barn and white farmhouse on M22, and find out about their history and how they came to be a part of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. At Port Oneida’s north end, turn left at the farmhouse with a mural celebrating our nation’s 1976 centennial and you’re headed to the big sand and water of Good Harbor beach. Hungry? Some of the best pizza in Michigan awaits up the road at the little red Market 22 (call ahead as there can be long lines for this crave-worthy pie). Little Traverse Inn next door has a robust tavern menu and a “Cheers”-esque bar. That’s Little Traverse Lake across the highway, but in a couple miles you’ll be shadowing Lake Michigan again all the way into Leland. Resist the temptation to turn on M204 to Suttons Bay— you’ll get there soon enough. And first a leg-stretch in Leland: home to the lovingly preserved fish shanties of Fishtown, the village is studded with boutique galleries, sweets shops, and a Lake Michigan harbor that defines picturesque. LELAND TO TRAVERSE CITY Heading around the tip of the peninsula means you won’t miss Northport. Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern, a couple miles south of town, is a straight-up roadhouse classic with memorable burgers and fried cauliflower. On the edge of the village proper, M22 becomes a conundrum as its road signs meet themselves—coming and going. Jog north on M201 and find Northport’s bustling marina and beach and Mitten Brewing Co., with its outdoor patio and food truck. Then there’s the Garage Bar & Grill, and Tucker’s—a family destination thanks to an indoor bowling alley. Hours into this epic road trip, southward bound on M22 once again, the water is to the east at last. Now, the views aquatic are all
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Grand Traverse Bay, with farmland and orchards rising to the west. Cruise through Omena, a slip of a town set on crescent Omena Bay. The prim-as-grandma’s-hanky white clapboard buildings house cottages, an art gallery and an old timey general store. Across the street Leelanau Wine Cellars Tasting Room and Knot Just a Bar rock a more modern vibe. A stone’s throw north finds you in Peshawbestown, home of the Grand Traverse Band of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians. While the Leelanau Sands Casino is a draw, it’s the Eyaawing Museum and Cultural Center that captivates. Slip into the main hall for a better understanding of how the native tribes shaped the local communities. Tear yourself away, head back on M22, and soon vineyards and wineries begin appearing, arrows pointing off M22 to cideries and tasting rooms. First up, just down a driveway behind an old barn, is Nathaniel Rose Wine, where Rose himself is sourcing grapes locally and from across the state to compose small-batch wines, with a special focus on reds. Then comes the 45th Parallel, a particular thrill in the crossing of it that never quite goes away, followed soon after by quaint Suttons Bay with its historic Bay Theatre, Bahle’s—one of the oldest retailers in Michigan, going strong for 143 years—boutiques, a marina, beach and an assortment of casual eateries. Then, that blue, that unique up-north-water blue of Grand Traverse Bay, comes to fill your view. If it takes a moment to tear yourself away, you should do so just as it slips from sight, where Hop Lot Brewing Co. appears instead. On the inside, blondes and browns, ambers, Scotch ales, and stouts line the taps; but outside it’s Up-North living writ large: multiple firepits line a casual beer garden, the thump of cornhole bags keep time to the music. Hop Lot makes a pretty darn happy ending to an M22 voyage. But maybe even more fitting would be to take the highway to trail’s end, almost to Traverse City. As M22 dips and curves, try to spy the tall ship Manitou cruising the bay. In Greilickville, there’s just one more treat: specifically, Wares Bros Frosty Treat on West Bay. Do the drive-through as the locals do, rolling up on their after-work commute, then head down M22 to West End Beach. After a day filled to the brim with scenery, curiosities and snacks—there’s still room for ice cream, and a sunset. When Julie H. Case isn’t writing about travel, wine or weird science, she can be found deep in America’s forests, foraging for mushrooms. juliehcase.com // Grant Piering is a Traverse City based adventure-lifestyle photographer and videographer showcasing organic experiences and memories. grantpiering.com
THE BEST OF M22 Craving more experiences along Michigan’s iconic highway? The M22 lifestyle brand founders share their absolute musts. MyNorth.com/mustdo
3 HOP LOT BRE WING CO.
MS. PAC- MAN AT FISCHER ’S HAPPY HOUR TAVERN
4 4 5 TH PAR AL L EL
5 DOL E WHIP AT WARES BROS
8 NATHANIEL ROSE WINE
9 WEST END BE ACH
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© STATE OF MICHIGAN 2019
WORKERS CHECKING THE DIAMETER OF THE EAST CABLE DURING COMPACTING NEAR THE TOP OF THE SOUTH TOWER.
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Once upon a time, our great state was divided, Lower and Upper, by the very deep, very blue water (or in the winter, thick, white ice) of the Straits of Mackinac. Then, on November 1, 1957, miraculous ribbons of asphalt, wire and two majestic towers knit together to become the Mackinac Bridge. Two hundred miles away, Detroit was ready with visions of family station wagons, sedans and sports cars zipping across what was once an abyss. In a sense, the two—the bridge and the automobile—grew up together, in a story that began in 1886, with the first patents for the gas-powered automobile granted to Karl Benz and Gottlieb Daimler. The very next year, David Steinman was born to a family who lived in the shadow of the Brooklyn Bridge. All his life, he loved books and poetry and bridges. Near the end of this rich life, he would design the Mackinac Bridge. The Brooklyn Bridge, the first steel-wire suspension bridge in the world, finished in 1883, caught more than just a little boy’s fancy. It inspired folks in Michigan to dream big—a supercalifragilisticexpialidocious, longest-bridge-in-the-world kind of big. A 5-mile feat of engineering suspended 500 feet over water 250 feet deep. A feat that had never been performed in the history of the world. In France, Gustave
Eiffel was dreaming of a crazy iron structure that would rise a breathtaking 1,000 feet in the air. In Michigan, they wanted to go long. Way long. The idea ignited imaginations from Lansing to St. Ignace, where, in 1884, a local businessman published a drawing of the Brooklyn Bridge with the caption: “Proposed bridge across the Straits of Mackinac.” More commanding was a statement at the 1888 Grand Hotel’s Board of Director’s meeting by railroad magnate Cornelius Vanderbilt: “We now have the largest, most wellequipped hotel of its kind in the world for a short season business. Now what we need is a bridge across the Straits.” Yes, the future, Vanderbilt presaged, was in tourism. Over the course of the next 70 years discussions about a bridge hiccuped along, tripped up by two World Wars, the Great Depression and the Korean War. Eventually, car ferries did the work of transporting cars between the peninsulas, but not as efficiently as a bridge would. In 1950, the state got serious and instituted the Mackinac Bridge Authority. Almost $100 million worth of bonds were to pay for the new bridge that was estimated to cost $45 million, and David Steinman was hired to design it.
© STATE OF MICHIGAN 2019
THE BRIDGE’S OFFICIAL DEDICATION IN JUNE 1958.
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© STATE OF MICHIGAN 2019 © STATE OF MICHIGAN 2019 © STATE OF MICHIGAN 2019
© STATE OF MICHIGAN 2019
FEARLESS: Meet the people who maintain the bridge today—which means regularly climbing to the top! MyNorth.com/MightyMac
CLOCKWISE: ERECTING THE EAST CATWALK BETWEEN THE NORTH AND SOUTH TOWERS / PREPARING TO LIFT SUSPENDED ROADWAY TRUSS SECTION INTO POSITION / AMERICAN BRIDGE DIVISION WORKERS BOARDING A PERSONNEL BOAT AT SHIFT CHANGE FROM PIER 22 / DR. DAVID B. STEINMAN
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COURTESY OF BROWN MOTORS
JOINING STEEL IN STRENGTH AND GRACE.
HEAR THE RIVET-HAMMERS RINGING,
REACH THE HEIGHTS OF AIRY SPACE.
NOW THE TOWERS, MOUNTING SKYWARD,
THE FIRST CAR OVER WAS A SHINY NEW 1958 DODGE CORONET, FROM PETOSKEY’S BROWN MOTORS
A stanza from Dr. David B. Steinman’s poem, ”The Bridge at Mackinac”
At 70 years old, he’d built bridges in the United States, Thailand, England, Portugal, Italy, Brazil, Haiti, Puerto Rico, Canada, Korea, Iraq and Pakistan. The Mackinac Bridge would be his final and greatest project. At its completion, the 5-mile long bridge was the longest suspension bridge in the world.* Steinman designed it to withstand 350 mile-per-hour winds. It took four years, 3,500 workers, 895,000 blueprints, 71,300 tons of structural steel, 931,000 tons of concrete, 42,000 miles of cable wire, 4,851,700 steel rivets, 1,016,600 steel bolts and, tragically, the lives of three men who died on the job, to build her. Cars began flowing over the Mackinac Bridge on November 1, 1957. The first car over was a shiny new 1958 Dodge Coronet, courtesy of Brown Motors, a family-owned dealership still doing business in Petoskey. At the bridge’s official dedication the next June, 103 sparkling white Oldsmobile convertibles (one for every county in Michigan) bearing dignitaries paraded across the bridge. The epic moment didn’t escape anyone involved. The bridge was a global phenomenon; a structure that would facilitate commerce; offer people access to better medical treatment and open up the world to the Upper Peninsula. And likewise it would open up easy access to three Great Lakes coastlines, to miles of backcountry hiking, skiing and (my personal favorite) pastie-gorging. Raison d’etres all for the Mackinac Bridge. But when you are midway across this steel, concrete and wire goddess of strength and beauty, gazing down on the mirrored shorelines, Mackinac Island and the ruffled waves of two Great Lakes, the voyage is all about the Mackinac Bridge. The greatest 5-mile road trip, ever. Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Traverse Magazine. lissa@traversemagazine.com // Photos courtesy of MDOT Photo. Michigan.gov/MDOT * Although the Big Mac is now the third-longest suspension bridge in the world, at 8,614 feet (the distance between her towers) she still holds the title of longest suspension bridge in the Western Hemisphere. Thank you to the Mackinac Bridge Authority, mackinacbridge.org, and mightymac.org for providing Big Mac facts. Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |
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T
he journey begins in Harbor Springs. Our ride, a 1972 VW Super Beetle, couldn’t have been a better fit for the road trip ahead. First, we stroll Harbor Springs as it wakes from winter. Shopkeepers fill flower boxes with pansies, and forsythia spring boldly from the warming earth, a perfect complement to the Bug’s yellow paint job. Snow shovels on stoops and salt stains on the asphalt are humble reminders of the season we left behind. While grabbing coffee and pastries for the journey ahead, we see passersby approach our ride, giving each other the mandatory Love Bug Slug on the arm. We unhook the clasps from the original horsehair insulated convertible top and sink into the seats as the smell of the ’70s wafts from the upholstery into the air. The clutch squeaks as I find first gear—we’re off on the fragrant corridors of M119. At 40-years-old, the Bug is in great shape. Yet it still bears the wear and tear of a car that was used for its original intent: to go places and explore. A notchy fourspeed transmission mates the spunky aircooled engine that won’t get you anywhere quickly, which is fine with us. Over the whine of the little motor, our conversation ebbs and flows just like the black clouds of midges that move along the shoreline. Nothing serious—just laughs and smiles, because there’s not much to talk about anyway; we know what we were thinking and feeling after such
a long winter. We can’t help but tilt our heads back to inhale the bouquet of spring; savoring the company of good friends, great places and German engineering. M119—Michigan’s famed Tunnel of Trees—is barely wide enough for two cars. As it threads its way through the forested hills one feels transported to a different dimension; no center line, no shoulder and sweeping views of Lake Michigan. Oaks, maples, birch and cedar lend their outstretched limbs that give the road its name, and provide a sense of intimacy and a feeling that this moment, this road, is just for you. A classic car demands attention; downshifts for hills, brake pumps for speed control and eyes constantly scanning the gauges. It’s this sense of immersion that guides the entire experience. Full participation isn’t an option, it’s a requirement, especially in a convertible—hairdos be damned. In a classic, each pothole, steep hill and cool breeze is felt. We zip north, stopping for refreshments at the Good Hart General Store. We grab an assortment of goodies for the road ahead while we chat with the store’s owner. “Trilliums, you want trilliums? Well, this is where you have to go.” And just like that our journey takes us down washed-out backroads from the advice of a new friend—thanks, Jim. Our Bug quickly becomes swallowed in the verdant greenery of spring and the sounds
of a grateful forest and critters. Third gear becomes second, which becomes first as we lurch down a rutted backroad that still bears the scars of the spring thaw. The Bug happily bounces along. Lunch is quick and simple: cheese, meat, a few nuts, a few sips of sparkling water. We wander to and from the spread on the hood to explore the surrounding area and admire how the sunlight dapples the forest floor before the canopy leafs out. Where the trilliums grow so thick you must watch your step and quietly apologize to each one you nudge aside to find footing as you explore the forest—scanning for morels. This is the season we had been waiting for, as if our bones let out a sigh of relief, spring is here and we can feel it through each breath, step and moment. Spring is a gift. Just like the car, it demands full participation. It claws for our approval in each blossom, fragrance and melting snow pile. Would spring be so delightful if we weren’t coming—pale and worn out —from winter’s enduring grasp? I doubt it. Writer Sam Brown and his wife Laura live in Leelanau County. Keep up with their adventures on Instagram at @wildly_yours // Mae Stier is a lake-lover, writer, and photographer living in Empire. You can find her on Instagram at @maestier or at letterstolakemichigan.com
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SPRING CLASSIC Who wouldn’t want a classic sitting in their garage, ready to go on a whim’s notice? Owning a classic is a commitment, driving one is a dream. DriveShare makes this a reality, without taking up any garage space. This journey would not have been possible without Hagerty’s classic car rental program. DriveShare makes it easy to enjoy the sights and sounds of any season from the seat of a classic. Rentals are simple with an easy check in/check out process through the program’s app and website interface. Traverse City-based Hagerty, a world-renowned classic car insurer, facilitates the rental contact with the owner and full insurance coverage. You can select from quirky Bugs with personality, to sleek and fast Mustangs. To rent a classic or learn more about the DriveShare program, visit driveshare.com. Want to list your own classic on DriveShare? Visit the website to learn more.
TUNNEL OF TREES SCAVENGER HUNT Rev up a sense of discovery by tracking down semisecret spots along this fascinating stretch of road. Here’s just a taste—find the full list of hidden treasures at MyNorth.com/roadtrip19. Slurp up a drink from the artesian well at Zorn Park in Harbor Springs. Get meta: Find the scavenger hunt within our hunt at Pond Hill Farm. The short but sweet street where St. Ignatius Church in tiny Middle Village is located has its own name. What is it? The Legs Inn is one funky, cool looking restaurant. But why in the world is it named Legs? Black and white and furry all over. What is the name of the dog who lives at Three Pines Studio? Crook your pinkie finger and taste tea at the Good Hart and Soul Tea Room opening mid-May.
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APRIL/MAY ‘19
For the Way You Live Up North
NORTHERN STYLE:
outdoor living!
THE NEED FOR GREEN
TRENDS: PATIO FURNITURE
Create the Mackinac Island Vibe AN ARBUTUS LAKE RETREAT Vintage Up North Style LAKE CHARLEVOIX REDO Inspiration Inside and Out
A SUPPLEMENT TO
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Volume 23
For the way you live Up North
•
Number 8
26
16
PHOTOS: LEFT: DAVE SPECKMAN // TOP RIGHT: MIKE GULLON + DROST LANDSCAPE // MIDDLE RIGHT: TRICIA ADAMS + KAITY BRUINSMA // BOTTOM RIGHT: DAVE WEIDNER
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features
departments
16 Timeless Mackinac Landscape artchitect Jack Barnwell shares Ten Tips for giving your yard that stunning island vibe.
7
Editor’s Note A Breath of Spring
8
Northern Style The Need for Green
26 Water Colors A renovation connecting a lovely home to its watery setting kicks it up to magnificent. 38 You Say Cottage, I Say Lodge Designer Marty Rhein unleashed his deep understanding of vernacular Northern Michigan style on two homes at Lakemore Retreat on Arbutus Lake. The results are stunning.
APR/MAY 2019
contents
13 Trends! What’s Hot in Patio Furniture
Click on Live Here >Home Ideas
Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY ‘19
NHC3
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Northern Home & Cottage is published as a supplement to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. 125 Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684 All rights reserved. Copyright 2019, Prism Publications Inc.
Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY ‘19
NHC5
editor’s note
West Michigan
of
Grand Rapids
Traverse City
SUNROOMS
The perfect addition to all homes & cottages
PHOTO BY DAVE SPECKMAN
A Breath of Spring Chances are you’ll be reading this right around the first day of spring in 2019. Early spring being a bit of a euphemism in Northern Michigan for winter’s last (and sometimes heartiest) exhale. So after months of white, trust me, you are going to love this issue. Working on it in February made my soul sing—it absolutely breathes color, life, warmth and inspiration. In this magazine, you’ll meet landscape architect Jack Barnwell who works extensively on Mackinac Island where the Victorian cottages are surrounded by lush gardens that frame stellar views of the Straits of Mackinac. Jack tells us how to create at least a taste of that quintessential Mackinac look in our own yards. And remember, it’s never too early to start planning your garden. We also visit a gorgeous house on Lake Charlevoix that has about everything relaxing that anyone could ever dream of, including an infinity pool. If an infinity pool (sometimes called a vanishing edge pool) in your own yard sounds unattainable, check out our interview with landscaper Travis Drost whose company Drost Landscaping built the pool. There might just be a way … Finally, we check in with Lakemore Retreat and its two totally Up North vacation homes on Arbutus Lake outside of Traverse City. The homes, built and designed by the team at Bay Area Contracting, execute Northern Michigan style perfectly. They also remind us of the times we throw open the windows and hear the children splashing in the lake … yes, hold on, those days are coming!
Our sunrooms, WeatherMaster® windows, decks and railings are designed for a worry-free experience. They are designed to extend your enjoyment of the outdoors without common annoyances like wind, rain, insects and harmful U.V. Rays. A Sunspace Sunroom, as well as our WeatherMaster® products will not only add beauty and comfort to any home or cottage, but also increase the value.
RAIINGS
TOPLESS, GLASS & PICKET
Traverse city
231-360-9827 Grand Rapids
616-249-8712
sunspacewestmichigan.com
Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com. Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY ‘19
NHC7
3
4
5
1/2
6
THE NEED FOR GREEN
1. Maidenhair Fern: Garden Goods, Traverse City, 231.933.4769, gardengoodstc.com, $21.99 2. Goddess Planter: Garden Goods, Traverse City, 231.933.4769, gardengoodstc.com, $49.99; $29.99 (for smaller version)
SPRING IS ON ITS WAY!
3. Ceramic Earrings by (Michigan-based) Grammar: Wood + Cloth, Traverse City, 231.421.8710, woodandcloth.com or grammardesigns.com, $48
CURATED BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS, GAIL SNABLE & EMILY TYRA PHOTOS DAVID WEIDNER
4. Green Apple Candles: At Home, Suttons Bay, 231.271.4664, athome-suttonsbay.com, $10 set of 2
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11
8
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5. Bird Pillow: Home Elements, Traverse City, 231.946.2850, candlefactory.org/homeelements, $58.25
9. Wasp Trap: Garden Goods, Traverse City, 231.933.4769, gardengoodstc.com, $16.99
6. Ceramic Basket: Home Elements, Traverse City, 231.946.2850, candlefactory.org/homeelements.htm, $54.50
10. Curvy Servers: At Home, Suttons Bay, 231.271.4664, athome-suttonsbay.com, $15
7. Patio Chair: Wood + Cloth, Traverse City, 231.421.8710, woodandcloth.com, $495 8. (Faux) Snake Grass Plant: Golden-Fowler, Traverse City, 231.946.7330, goldenfowler.com, $79
11. Bike Clock: Home Elements, Traverse City, 231.946.2850, candlefactory.org/homeelements, $52.08 12. Gardenista: Wood + Cloth, Traverse City, 231.421.8710, woodandcloth.com, $40
Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY ‘19
NHC 9
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trends!
THREE PROS TELL US WHAT’S HOT IN PATIO FURNITURE
TELESCOPE CASUALS / LAKE SHORE
By Elizabeth Edwards
Who: Timothy Edge, senior designer and sales at Labadie’s Summer Place Casuals. As an interior and exterior home designer, as well as a furniture designer, Tim is more than qualified to help customers find their perfect pool (or lakeside) furniture.
Who: Jennifer Keiser, general manager and designer at Quiet Moose in Petoskey. Credit Jennifer’s exquisite design sensibilities to an art history degree from University of Michigan. And, yes, those sensibilities extend outside to the deck!
What’s hot in outdoor furniture? In Northern Michigan most people are seeking an outdoor furniture look that blends with our beautiful natural landscape—the woods and water. Nothing flamboyant. They want pieces that are ergonomic in terms of comfort and style. One company I would point customers to is Telescope Casuals. The furniture is made in America, good quality and a good price point. They have a wide range of styles, fabrics and finishes. Wicker is always popular because it looks both organic and cottagey, and is marine-grade polymer, which resembles wood. In aluminum-framed furniture, Telescope has a wide range of colors so you aren’t stuck with black or white. A shade called aged bronze, for instance, blends well with a wooded landscape.
What is hot in outdoor furniture? We do a lot of work with Lloyd Flanders and Woodard. Both are Michigan companies. All the furniture at Bay View (the Victorian cottage community on the north side of Petoskey) and many other associations have Lloyd Flanders wicker that is generations old. For people who don’t want that traditional wicker look, vendors are adding some great transitional and modern designs. One of my favorites is Lloyd Flanders Tobago collection because it can be used with lodge or cottagestyle homes to give a fresh look with much comfort. Tommy Bahama, from Lexington, is another great line we carry. They’ve got some really great transitional looks with fabulous fabrics. For transitional homes the stainless steel and lines of the Très Chic line are hot. ➤
Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 11
trends!
Celebrating over 31 Years
The Shade is Cool,
the Look is Hot!
Let Advanced help you create beautiful and functional outdoor living spaces!
www.advancedawnings.net 231-938-2233 or 800-953-2288 Look for us under the red canopies 1.5 Miles East on M-72, Acme
No matter your style, here are some tips to keep in mind: Texture is important. There are great vinyl products that look just like wicker, rattan, teak. Blend your outdoor furnishings with your indoor by keeping the finishes and fabrics neutral outside. We get a lot of winds from our lakes, so making sure your furniture has some weight is important. Pillows blow around, too. There are new frames out there with no pillows that are comfortable and have a lot of style. Foam seats are implemented under the weave. Who: Dave Pobuda, sales manager at Edwards Home Furnishings in Suttons Bay, with 28 years of experience selling all types of furniture—and sitting on his own porch. What is hot in outdoor furniture? I am a big fan of Telescope Casual—a made-in-America company that is a hundred years old. I particularly like their marine-grade polymer. It’s a great product for outdoor use in Northern Michigan. The color is all the way through, so it doesn’t scratch or discolor, and it comes in all styles from contemporary to cottagey. I also love Woodard. This Michigan company is 150 years old and still relevant. They are still doing the scrolling patterns forged from wrought iron, such as Briarwood, that most of us are familiar with, but they have many other styles now, and they have branched out into aluminum and woven outdoor furniture. Their products really hold up. I’ve had a couple of their spring chairs for over 15 years, and they are still in great shape.
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EXPECT MORE ... AND GET MORE! MORE NEW PRODUCTS
MORE INNOVATION
TELESCOPE CASUALS / LAKE SHORE
trends!
WOODARD FURNITURE / NEW CENTURY BAR
WOODARD FURNITURE / SPRITE
BEAUTIFUL STONE AND TILE
LUXURY ENGINEERED FLOATING STONE CORE PLANKS
fabrication, service & design Traverse City • 231.929.2848 • stratusmarble.com Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 13
Timeless Mackinac ABSOLUTELY NOTHING SAYS SUMMER ON THE GREAT LAKES LIKE MACKINAC ISLAND COTTAGES WITH THEIR WATER VIEWS AND VIBRANT, ELEGANT GARDENS. AWARD-WINNING LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT JACK BARNWELL, THE MAN BEHIND MANY OF THE ISLAND’S PREMIER LANDSCAPES, SHARES SECRETS OF THAT QUINTESSENTIAL STYLE
TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS PHOTOS BY DAVE SPECKMAN
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Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 15
16
MyNorth.com
1. VIEW CONSIDERATION IS THE KEY. Whether the vista is expansive—looking out at the lake from a great-room window, or an intimate space seen from an office window, framing views from indoor and outdoor rooms is a top priority. For year round framing, big arching limbs of spruce, or white pine work beautifully. For a summer view, lilacs are a favorite of mine for their classic spring bloom and the ability to prune them to a feathered-out architectural form that can arc around a view. 2. PLANT BIRCH AND ASPEN. The fluttery leaves of these tree species create dancing, dappled light that allows for a bigger plant palette in the microclimate beneath them. 3. BUILD FLAGSTONE PATHS. Flagstones, or large flat irregular stones, create an iconic Mackinac look in the garden. If setting into an existing lawn, lay them out on top and cut around the edge with a sharp flat edging shovel. Then flip the stones out of the way, remove the sod, and sprinkle a little sand in to set the stones back into the spaces, making sure they are nice and sturdy. In shady areas, we often use woodland moss as our “joints.” 4. LAYER PLANTINGS WITH ROBUST FLOWERING SHRUBS, LIKE HYDRANGEAS, AND “POWERFUL PERENNIALS.” I call perennials that offer more than just their flower appeal "powerful"... in other words, they offer great long-lasting foliage and a good show of flowers for a longer season of performance. 5. USE LIVING GROUND COVERS INSTEAD OF MULCH! Mulch is overused in this country, especially the dyed wood chips available at most big-box stores. Avoid over-mulching by planting evergreen ground covers instead. Our go-to shade ground covers are pachysandra and vinca minor (myrtle). If kept in bounds, they provide a stunning ground cover. There are many other small spreading perennials like tiarella (also called foamflower) and ajuga that offer similar results. 6. MAKE STATUES, WATER FEATURES AND FOUNTAINS VISUAL DESTINATIONS THAT CREATE RESPITE. Gardens are first and foremost meant to be calming, peaceful spaces that invoke a feeling of relaxation.
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Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 17
InspIratIon for your ImagInatIon
Bradley J. Butcher, AIA bbutcher@sidockgroup.com 989.705.8400 • sidockgroup.com Novi • Wyandotte • Lansing Muskegon • Gaylord • Sault Ste. Marie featured on
1480 S. West Bay Shore Dr.,Suttons Bay, MI 49682 231-271-0010
1701 South Airport Rd. West Traverse City, MI 49686 231-947-1400
northernbuildingsupply.com
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7. CREATE "IMMERSIVE" OUTDOOR ROOMS WITHIN THE GARDEN. These spaces should feel private, safe and secluded whether they are tucked into the site’s natural topography or created through plantings. 8. PLANT CLASSIC HEIRLOOM QUALITY PERENNIALS FOR A TIMELESS MACKINAC LOOK. Varieties like shasta daisy, herbaceous peonies, iris, lilies, and roses are tried and true and are often the hardiest perennials in the garden. 9. MIND YOUR EDGES. Bordering garden beds with a stone wall (even if it is as low as 6-to-8 inches) allows for multiple benefits including more volume for soil amendment, ease of maintenance and turf edging, and a clean finished look.
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Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 19
NEVER BE COLD AGAIN!
Photography by Beth Singer
20
“When done beautifully, Architecture will have the same power over the mind and spirit as music or poetry or any works of art, creating meaningful human experiences.”
Add a beautiful wood, or gas fireplace ® from FireplaceX
Elk Rapids Northville 231.498.2500 248.515.4477 josephmoseyarchitecture.com
6717 E M 115 Cadillac, MI 49601 231-775-7941 • positivechimney.com
MyNorth.com
10. Lilacs, American flags, and geraniums … There aren't many gardens on Mackinac that don't include these three elements that add so much to the island's summer look. Lilacs love the limestone-rich, slightly alkaline gravelly soils and have thrived on the island for centuries. Plant them in a well-drained, full-sun area away from towering pines to enjoy these fragrant springblooming beauties. As for geraniums, always go for “zonal” or zonal-cross geraniums—never seed-grown. Zonal geraniums are propagated from cuttings and will give you the big flower heads, bigger foliage, and desired look. When dead-heading, don’t use scissors, instead follow the stem down to the node where it sprouted from and snap it off. The sound is meditative … Jack Barnwell Design has worked on landscape projects all over Northern Michigan, Florida and other parts of the country. jackbarnwelldesign.com.
Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 21
What could be more important in your home…? Knowledge, Quality, Service Free Consultation
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12970 Robins Ridge, Charlevoix, MI 231.547.6752 • conquestbuilders.com
Personalized Service Since 1981
We Build Your Dream
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Trust Northern Garage Doors for the
SAVE the DATES PETOSKEY & CHARLEVOIX AREAS SEPTEMBER 14, 2019 TRAVERSE CITY AREA OCTOBER 19, 2019
Tickets on sale in August.
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finishing touch on your home.
www.bldr.com www.bldr.com www.bldr.com
Traverse Traverse City City Lumber Lumber Traverse City 5700 US 5700Lumber US 31 31 SS 5700MI 31 S Grawn, MIUS 49637 Grawn, 49637 Grawn, MI 49637 231.943.7000 231.943.7000 231.943.7000
Your Your Source Source For: For: GRAND GARDEN SHOW Want to see Mackinac Gardens up close and personal? Visit the annual Grand Garden Show on Sunday, August 25 to Tuesday, August 27, 2019, where you’ll be treated to inspirational gardening sessions and exclusive walking tours to private gardens. grandgardenshow.com
Cabinetry Cabinetry Decks Decks Houses/Garages Houses/Garages Floor Covering Floor Covering Pole Barns Pole Barns Windows & Doors Windows & Doors
Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 23
Water Colors FOCUSING ON WATER VIEWS AND RELAXATION TAKES A DATED HOME TO OFF-THE-CHARTS TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS + CARA MCDONALD PHOTOS BY MIKE GULLON + DROST LANDSCAPE
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he new homeowners of this Charlevoix gem found it in great shape but, built in the early 2000s, it was dated. Beyond that, this couple who love to entertain, wanted to add their own style and transform it into a haven for elegant relaxation that revolves around its spectacular water views. The dream team of Birchwood Construction and Drost Landscape worked together to remake the lakeside of the house, playing up its connection to its spectacular setting. Birchwood partner, Ken Provost, headed up the structural revamp, starting with a new roofline and dormers to accentuate the lake views from the upstairs levels. A windowed cupola (designed by Gary Nance of Gary Nance Designs) gives historic character to the exterior and floods the third floor loft with light. Copper detail on the roof adds a vintage theme; extending the copper to completely clad a new covered porch on the terrace is just plain elegant. A generous NanaWall Door that stretches across the back of the home frames the view from the great room; a view that moves across the covered porch, the terrace and the infinity pool to Lake Charlevoix. The terrace, infinity pool and retaining walls are all laid with handsome Blue Elite granite with Valders limestone steps and rug insert on the patio. Steps from the infinity pool (outfitted with in-water speakers for swimming enjoyment) Drost Landscape created a signature outdoor kitchen that can handle everything from pizza to gourmet meals.
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Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 25
TOP: THE HOMEOWNER OPTED TO PRESERVE THE HOME’ S ORIGINAL KITCHEN . / BOT TOM RIG HT: THE E X TENSIVE G L ASS NANAWALL B RING THE L AKE VIEW INSIDE . / BOT TOM LEF T: B LU E ROMA STONE IN THE DOWNSTAIRS KITCHENET TE AND BAR REMINDS OF THE EB BS , FLOWS AND SANDBARS OF L AKE CHARLE VOIX .
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On the inside, Interior Designer LuAnn Shepherd, working closely with the homeowner, took the sand-and-water cue and developed a palette of soft aquas, beiges and creamy whites that flows through the house. The wide-planked oak flooring washed with a creamy, semitransparent stain feels like sand, the dining room table base is fabricated from driftwood and the (original) fireplace facade is made from barn wood with a new creamy wash. Elegant, overstuffed furniture and touches including custom-designed built-in cabinetry add luxe to the beachy feel. Downstairs, the slabs of striking watery blue Roma Stone (used on a new guest kitchenette and bar) were fabricated at TJ Marble & Granite in Petoskey. Gary Nance designed the supercool shiplap mantel flanked with log cross-sections. Coupled with the whitewash billiards and shuffleboard tables, the downstairs spells vacation. Generally speaking, no remodel is complete without rethinking the kitchen, but in this case, the homeowner fell in love with the original kitchen and opted to keep it as was. Throughout the house, Ken turned up the heat—installing all new in-floor heat, driveway heat, patio heat. Everywhere you turn, there’s custom detail to make the home more accessible (like a new elevator) and gathering friendly (like around the nine-foot custom fireplace). Now the rest of the house is as timeless and gracious as that kitchen.
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Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 27
THE HANDSOME L ANDSCAPING AND GOU RMET OUTDOOR KITCHEN WERE DESIG NED AND PERFEC TLY E XECUTED BY DROST L ANDSCAPE .
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THE SE AMLESS VIEW FROM THE POOL TO THE L AKE SPELL S INFINIT Y.
Dreaming of an Infinity Pool? Sky’s the Limit …. The pièce de résistance of the landscaping in this home is an infinity lap pool, constructed by Drost Landscape, that is set into the side of the bluff so that the view from the pool makes it feel as though it flows into Lake Charlevoix—while in reality it cascades down the side of a stone wall and splashes across boulders before it is magically pumped back up to the pool. True this pool was meant for serious lap swimming, but nevertheless, like all infinity pools (or as they are sometimes called, vanishing edge pools) it is the epitome of romantic relaxation. The mechanics behind an infinity pool’s magic are powerful jets that pump the water back into the pool after it has cascaded across the top of one lip that is slightly lower than the pool’s other edges (called the weir) into a catch basin below. Beyond those must-have features there is really no end to the variations on the infinity pool theme. Don’t have a hillside to set one into? How about a deck? Freestanding infinity pools are also gorgeous.
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Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 29
Building homes is a craft. Building relationships is an art. Building homes is a craft. Building relationships is an art. bccfamily.com • 231-439-1600 • Harbor Springs, MI bccfamily.com • 231-439-1600 • Harbor Springs, MI
Building Building homes ishomes a craft. is a craft. Building relationships is an art.is an art. Building relationships PHOTOGRAPHY BY GREG BAUDOIN INTERIOR DESIGN
• Harbor bccfamily.com bccfamily.com • 231-439-1600• 231-439-1600 • Harbor Springs, MI Springs, MI
A DROST L ANDSCAPE DESIG N TO CONCE AL THE MECHANIC S OF THE INFINIT Y POOL FEEL S LIKE A EU ROPE AN CASTLE .
If your dreams are endless but your budget isn’t, you might consider a smaller pool size (or even simply an infinity hot tub) and saving money on the cost of the pool cladding—Pebble Tech versus materials like the Elite Blue granite used around this pool. Whatever you choose, Travis Drost, the project manager for Drost Landscape, advises to make sure your pool melts into its setting. “People are struck by the pool,” he says speaking of this home, adding that they don’t realize until they look closer how much the pool is accentuated by the landscaping around it. Elizabath Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home and Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com // Photos by Mike Gullon + Drost Landscape
Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 31
S A RAH BOURGEOI S AR CH I TEC TS
4/11 JOSHUA DAVIS, SOLO, “LIVE AT THE ROBIN” RELEASE PARTY 4/21 EASTER BRUNCH 4/23 BRYS ESTATE WINE DINNER
T R AV E R S E C I T Y
2 3 1 . 9 4 7. 2 7 0 0
SBOURGEOIS.COM 800.836.0717 // MYNORTHTICKETS.COM // TRAVERSE CITY
175 MAGNET DR BOYNE CITY, MI 49712
231-582-5020 WWW.BULMANNDOCK.COM
LIFT YOUR WATERFRONT EXPECTATIONS
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1776 M-37 South, Traverse City
Phone: (231)943-3440 Fax: (231)943-3441 Email: Naturesedge1776@gmail.com
Granite, Marble, Quartz, Quartzite, Limestone, Onyx, and Soapstone Surfaces Professional Fabrication & Installation Free Estimates
resources
Total Commitment to Quality
Water Colors, page 24
Contractor Birchwood Construction bccfamily.com Designer Gary Nance Design Interior Designer LuAnn Shepherd Interiors lshepherdinteriors@yahoo.com Built-in Cabinets The Joinery timothystaton.com Landscaping + Infinity Pool Drost Landscape drostlandscape.com Cabinetry Preston Feather Building Center prestonfeather.com Windows Marvin supplied by Thomas & Milliken tmmill.com Stone and Marble TJ Marble & Granite northernmichigangranite.com
More than 25 years of experience in building distinctive homes while exceeding the expectations of discriminating clients. jim@cooleycontracting. com
Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 33
You Say Cottage, I Say Lodge
A TALENTED DESIGN-AND-BUILD TEAM SHOWS THE POWER OF NORTHERN MICHIGAN VERNACULAR STYLE AT LAKEMORE RETREAT ON ARBUTUS LAKE OUTSIDE OF TRAVERSE CITY TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS PHOTOS BY TRICIA ADAMS + KAITY BRUINSMA
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VINTAG E RED BOARD -AND - BAT TEN TRIMMED IN CRE AM , B L ACK WINDOW CASINGS AND A STEEL ROOF WORK TOG ETHER TO CRE ATE THE LODG E LOOK .
Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 35
TOP: THE KITCHEN IN THE LODG E SPE AKS VINTAG E LODG E WITH TR AC TOR-SE AT STOOL S , A RUSTIC-WOODEN SL AB COU NTER , WALN UT ISL AND BASE AND WINDOW TRIM AND WIDE- PL ANKED WHITE OAK FLOOR . / BOT TOM : BOTH THE LODG E AND THE COT TAG E ARE OUTFIT TED WITH “ LOCKER ROOMS” WHERE TOWEL S , TOYS AND WET BATHING SUITS CAN B E STASHED OR H U NG TO DRY.
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arlier this year, a group of colleagues from Quicken Loans in Detroit booked both rental houses, one a cottage and the other a lodge, at the year-round Lakemore Retreat on Arbutus Lake for a team-building getaway. The retreat is owned by and was built by Dean and Tricia Adams of Bay Area Contracting. The group filled the homes—twelve people in each—and their days with meetings and breaks to snowshoe and ski the beautiful wooded setting. Happy hours on the enclosed and heated porch as the sun set over Arbutus Lake (actually lakes—Arbutus is made up of five interconnected lakes), followed by casual dinners in the perfectly outfitted kitchens rounded out their experience in these luxury home rentals. The group enjoyed themselves immensely, and if they felt like they’d escaped to a timeless Northern Michigan era, well that was by design—a feeling that began with BAC Designer Marty Rhein. Certainly, Marty developed mood boards to outfit these two homes, but before that, before anything, he says he spent time both with the owners and walking the property asking himself, “What is Arbutus Lake saying? What needs to be here?” The answer came back clearly: Timeless Northern Michigan structures that are connected to their site and the lifestyle that is lived on this lake. They would both have classic Arts & Crafts details, evoking the era when cottaging began on this lake, but they would be as different as, say, a farmhouse-turned-cottage and a lodge that had once housed fishermen and hunters. The fun “who knew?” in the Lakemore Retreat story is that Marty worked with identical floor plans for both structures—one would be named the Cottage, the other the Lodge—but with his thoughtful, thematic interiors and exterior details, guests are not even aware. The floor plans began like everything else at BAC, with collaboration between designers Ken Williams and Marty. Working with some simple parameters (each home needed to sleep 12 people) the two developed a blueprint that melded the feel of a home with an old lodge or farmhouse. As in—the hallway from the entrance to the great room is lined with the guest rooms. But there had to be that Wow factor—as in, from the time you walk in, the sight line goes to a bull’s-eye view of Arbutus Lake. From there, Marty says he designed inside out … in the Lodge, a big fieldstone fireplace, rough-hewn white oak floor and walnut interior details including railings, kitchen island cabinet, and a jaw-dropping walnut slab table set the tone for a cigars-after-sunset sort of feel. An American flag made out of wood that he and Trish discovered at an antique store adds another layer of vintage Americana. Marty had it mounted on the great room wall and then parlayed that vintage red throughout the home from the board-and-batten siding to the red leather sectional in the billiards room. The cottage? Ah, the cottage … all beach-side colors and seafoam-colored shakes on the exterior. Authentic Northern Michigan barn beams and a super-cool light fixture fashioned from a wagon wheel (another key find!) and beach-glass colored bubble-glass shades define this space.
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Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 37
TOP: SOF T SHADES OF WATER AND SAND CRE ATE THE COT TAG E VIB E . AN OLD WAGON WHEEL MART Y AND TRICIA FOU ND WAS THE INSPIR ATION B EHIND THE COOL KITCHEN PENDANT LIG HT. / BOT TOM LEF T: THE COT TAG E AND THE LODG E E ACH HAVE THEIR OWN FIRE PIT—THIS IS NORTHERN MICHIGAN AF TER ALL! / FLOR AL LINENS SPE AK THE VINTAG E COT TAG E THEME .
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CLOCK WISE: MART Y AND TRICIA USED THEIR WOODEN FL AG - FIND TO SET THE LODG E’ S AMERICAN THEME . / RUSTIC B ED FR AMES PARL AY THE AMERICANA THEME . / NOTHING SAYS LODG E LIKE AN AUTHENTIC FIELDSTONE FIREPL ACE . THIS ONE IS TRICKED OUT WITH A STU NNING WALN UT MANTEL . / THE LODG E’ S FOU R-SE ASON PORCH . NOTE THE BARNWOOD CEILING .
Different they may be, but each structure is rooted in what it means to vacation on a lake in Northern Michigan: Throw open the window of the heated three-season porch on a summer’s night, curl up in a cozy chair, turn on the fan if it is hot outside, and let the sounds of nature in. When the two homes were completed, the BAC team booked them for several nights, bringing along their families. “It lived just like I hoped it would,” Marty says. “We opened the windows and you could hear the sounds of the kids playing in the lake and the call of loons.” Elizabath Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home and Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com Photos by Tricia Adams + Kaity Bruinsma
Northern Home & Cottage
APR | MAY '19
NHC 39
resources Lakemore Retreat, page 34
WINDOWS Old Mission Windows oldmissionwindows.com FLOORING Floor Covering Brokers floorcoveringbrokers.com CUSTOM LODGE FRONT DOOR Guido Goldkühle kuhldoors.com APPLIANCES Max’s Service and Appliance maxsservice.com HARDWARE Allen Supply allensupply.net
WWW.APLU S CONCRET E . N E T
231.218.7630 - LICENSED & INSURED - SERVING ALL OF NORTHERN MICHIGAN
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TILE Tilestone Imports tilestoneimports.com Stratus Marble and Granite stratusmarble.com
Beauty rests on necessities. The line of beauty is the line of perfect economy. Ralph Waldo Emerson 1803 -1882
Paul Maurer General Contracting has been building beautiful custom homes in the Grand Traverse Region for nearly 40 years, and during that time we have learned at lot. The most meaningful lesson learned is this– it’s all about what the homeowner wants, not what we want. We believe in listening carefully to our customers and then delivering on their vision. It’s the cornerstone for success.
231.941.1448 • paulmaurer.com • Traverse City, Michigan
Dining RESTAURANT GUIDE | LOCAL TABLE | DRINKS
Mediterranean Cravings | 42 Yooper Road Food | 45 Fun on Tap in TC | 47
TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER
Club Med
NADA’S GOURMET DELI
PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER
542 WEST FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY | 231.947.6779 The pungent siren call of garlic touma and a deep queue of shawarma-hungry patrons snaking out the door can only mean one thing. The North’s unrequited craving for Middle Eastern street food is over. Frying falafel, dishing out bright lemony tabbouleh and rolling marinated chicken and pickled vegetables into paper-thin pita, the namesake behind Nada’s is a one-woman study in culinary multi-tasking. Behind her workstation, spotless gleaming cases are filled with cucumber jajeek, quinoa, mango and parsley salad, creamy hummus, curry-spiked cold lentil salad and platters of still warm baklava. A vertical rotisserie stands braced for this summer’s gyro program. Read on this month for insight into Nada’s native flavors and a quick hit list of other Mediterranean eats. Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |
APR '19
41
dining | club med
FOODIE FILE
Nada Saco OWNER | NADA’S GOURMET DELI
Synthesizing the flavors from her childhood in Iraq, the Greek Islands and Metro Detroit’s Chaldean community, Nada Saco has been rooted in the North for the past two decades and in 2015 started slinging Middle Eastern delights from her store on West Front Street. Dropping in for our weekly shawarma fix we talk essential Mediterranean flavors, next-level hummus strategy and get a quick recipe for cucumber salad. We come here for shawarma, but what are you cooking at home? My favorite thing is dolma. I learned to make them from my mother and grandmother. As in stuffed grape leaves? Yes, but in Iraq we do it a little differently. Meat and onions are finely chopped, mixed with spices and rice then stuffed into all kind of vegetables: peppers, zucchini, eggplant. It’s layered in a deep pan and the stuffed grape leaves go on top.
JAJEEK
(CUCUMBER YOGURT SALAD) SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS 1
English cucumber, diced
1
clove fresh garlic, minced
The last five customers have left with bags of borek. What are those? Everyone’s addicted to the borek. At home, these are round meat pies made with thin phyllo and fried. My version uses egg roll wrappers, one is stuffed with ground beef and the other with chicken biryani.
K lemon, juiced
This hummus is super silky. What’s the secret? Good hummus needs to start with good ingredients. Dried chickpeas that have been rehydrated have the best flavor. Find the best, smoothest tahini, use fresh garlic, high quality olive oil and, most importantly, the best food processor you can find. Hummus needs to be processed for a long time, sometimes again the next day, in order to get that smooth texture.
METHOD
K teaspoon sea salt 1
cup Greek yogurt
In a medium mixing bowl fold ingredients together, cover and chill for at least one hour. Serve with roasted leg of lamb, grilled chicken or fresh pita.
ON THE ROAD
BALLARO WINE LOUNGE
CALYPSO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL
MIM’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL
700 COTTAGEVIEW DRIVE, TRAVERSE CITY 231.929.1960 Chow down Sicilian style with small plates of stuffed olives, salt-cured tuna and octopus with tomatoes and olives.
1500 US 31 NORTH, TRAVERSE CITY 231.943.2740 Calypso slings fresh tabbouleh and Turkish-inspired kabobs like Shish Tavuk and Lamb Kofte.
1823 US 31 NORTH, PETOSKEY 231.348.9994 Classic gyros and fusionistic riffs with grilled veggies or zesty falafel. Do not ignore the fiery feta fries.
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PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER
Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com. Dave Weidner is a freelance photographer based in Traverse City. dweidnerphoto@gmail.com.
Restaurant Guide
Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000
BLD: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner BAR: Alcohol served. $: Entrées under $10 $$: $10–20 $$$: Above $20 Water view
PETOSKEY/HARBOR SPRINGS/ CROSS VILLAGE/PELLSTON/ BAY HARBOR/MACKINAC ISLAND
Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY,
Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room— fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $
Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E. JORDAN
422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572
RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351
Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and composed salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL
Scovie’s Gourmet Deli & Bake Shop Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistrostyle comfort food. LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX,
ST., PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900
Vernales Restaurant Chop house, sports bar and wine bar with patio dining. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3018 M119, HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4777
Villa Ristorante Italiano Authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and hand-rolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440
The Bistro Saucer-sized homemade pancakes, comfort food. BL • $ 1900 US 31., PETOSKEY, 231.347.5583
AT BAY HARBOR RENAISSANCE LAKE MICHIGAN GOLF RESORT, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051
Chandler’s Art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$
BELLAIRE/BOYNE/WALLOON
231.347.0101
Cormack’s Deli Fabulous sandwiches, soups and bbq, open Mon.-Fri. 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. BL • $ 2569 CHARLEVOIX AVE., PETOSKEY, 231.347.7570
Duffy’s Garage and Grille Pasta, burgers, inventive pizzas. LD • BAR • $$ 317 E LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3663 new
Huron Street Pub & Grill Classic pub food. LD BAR $-$$ 7304 MAIN ST, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8255
Smokey Jose’s Water-side restaurant where BBQ and bourbon meet tacos & tequila. LD BAR $-$$ 7263 MAIN STREET MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0466
Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250
Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801
New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904
Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. D, SUN. BRUNCH • BAR • $$-$$$ 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY, 877.442.6464
Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321
The Paper Station Fresh, relaxed and inventive foods. BLD • $ 145 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4546
Pierson's Grille & Spirits Ribs, whitefish, pizza, burgers and other staples of life. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 130 STATE ST., HARBOR
Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. LD • BAR $-$$$ 04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000
Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge— Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern—American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875
231.237.7827
Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel. LD • BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311
Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D • BAR • $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799
ELK RAPIDS
Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively sounds of Zydeco, jazz and blues. LD • BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530 Siren Hall Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, fresh-off-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 151 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231. 264.6062
LEELANAU COUNTY
Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole.
Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cuisine at Shanty Creek Resort with a view of Lake Bellaire. Breakfast, lunch & dinner. The River Bistro—Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, Lunch, (spring-fall) Ivan’s Mountainside Gril—Schuss Village-Pub food. BLD • BAR 1 SHANTY CREEK RD.
BLD • BAR • $-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754
(M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111
Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers.
The Pelican’s Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads homemade desserts. D BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000
Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.0049
The Bluebird Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the offseason. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081
Boone Dock’s Shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444
LD • BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688
Big Cat Brewing Company Great comfort food including pot roast, perch and Southern-fried chicken, but now with house-brewed beer. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 8699 S. GOOD HARBOR TR., CEDAR, 231.228.2282
Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MCFARLANE,
Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store.
MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900
LD • BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622
S WAUKAZOO ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386. 5511
Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999
Joe’s Friendly Tavern Whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$ 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506
Fish and burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019
BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393
The Cantina Authentic Mexican in Van Pelt Alley behind Bridge Street. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 VAN PELT PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3612
new Pour Public House
Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL ST.,
That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037
PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800
Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. LD • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466
Garage Bar & Grill BBQ & bar eats. LD • BAR • $-$$ 108
Knot Just a Bar
CHARLEVOIX/CENTRAL LAKE/ ELLSWORTH/EAST JORDAN
SPRINGS, 231.526.2967
Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771
Kelsey B’s Lakeside Food & Spirits Dine on burgers, steaks and fish and soak up the Lake Charlevoix views. LD • BAR • $-$$ 230 FERRY AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2960
Vintage Chophouse/Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$ INN
City Park Grill Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY,
BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450
231.526.6201
231.753.2221
215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981
East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD •
La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3944
Leland Lodge Bogeys— BLD • BAR • $-$$ 565 PEARL ST., LELAND, 231.256.9848
Little Traverse Inn Old World gastro pub highlights the food and beer of the British Isles. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 149 E. HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY. 231. 228.2560
Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR • $ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422
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dining | restaurant guide Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on scratch regional cuisine. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344
North Country Grill & Pub (Whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) , fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR • $$ 420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000
Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY,
Mackinaw Brewing Co. House-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty char-burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR •
TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH
Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,
231.946.3991
$$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100
231.943.2793
Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872
Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST.,
new
Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST.,
TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093
ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8002
SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199
BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832
231.228.6692
Tucker’s of Northport Bistro-style casual fine dining. Meet. Dine. Bowl. LD • BAR • $-$$ 116 WAUKAZOO, NORTHPORT, 231.386.1061
OLD MISSION PENINSULA
Boathouse Restaurant Casually elegant spot with great steaks, seafood, large local wine selection. Sunday brunch. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 14039 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4030
Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. LD • BAR • $$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333
TRAVERSE CITY—DOWNTOWN
Alliance James Beard-nominee Pete Peterson teams with up-and-coming chef James Bloomfield at this Warehouse District bistro. LD • BAR • $-$$ 144 HALL ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5545
Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888
Bay Bread Company Artisan breads, sandwiches, salads, soups. BLD • $ 601 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.8022 Bistro Fou Fou Chef Guillaume Hazaël-Massieux also of La Bécasse in Maple City brings his country French cooking downtown. LD • $$-$$$ 118 CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.6583
Blue Heron 2 Local ingredients used in homemade bread and soup and other scratch dishes like roasted vegetable breakfast bowl. BL • $ 408 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.2583
Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with fromscratch farmer food. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515
Bubba’s Burgers, chimis, salads, tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570
The Cooks’ House Sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-$$$ 115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700
Firefly Sushi, steaks and burgers. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310
The Franklin Flatbread, salads, lamb and beef burgers, bistro dinners. LD • BAR • $-$$ 160 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2727
Frenchies Famous Three tables and carryout, offers superb hot sandwiches and espresso drinks. BL • $ 619 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1228
Georgina’s Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 236 E. FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1555
Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, soups, salads and quiche. BL • $ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437
Harvest Hip Asian and Latin influenced menu. LD • BAR • $ 127 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.486.6037
Little Bohemia Famous Olive Burger featured on Food Network. Full menu. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 540 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.6925
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Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steak and burger house. LD • North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325
Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD • $-$$$ 237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9645
Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7632
Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh-sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT
Common Good Bakery Handmade pastries, bread, croissants, breakfasts, soups, sandwiches.. BL • $ 537 W 14TH The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted woodfired flatbreads and flavorful house brews. LD • BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168
new Raduno Neighborhood deli featuring homemade pasta,
sausages, charcuterie and salads. LD • $-$$ 545 E EIGHTH ST., TRAVERSE CITY 231.421.118
Sauce at Incredible Mo’s Artisan pizza, pasta, salad in a kid-friendly atmosphere. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1355 SILVER LAKE CROSSINGS BLVD, GRAWN, 231.944.1355
TRAVERSE CITY–WEST
Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad.
ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733
LD • BAR • $$ 13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079
Scalawags Whitefish and Chips A new location for ultrafresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE
Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR
CITY, 231.933.8700
Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT STREET,
• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393
PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR •
TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912
$$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960
Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. D • BAR •
Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30,
$$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912
Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500
The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.0900
Warehouse Kitchen & Cork Seasonally inspired farmto-fork restaurant inside Hotel Indigo. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 263 WEST GRANDVIEW PARKWAY, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0500
TRAVERSE CITY–EAST
Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. D • BAR • $$$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000
McGee’s No. 72 Gourmet burgers, fries, pizza and other sophisticated bar food. D • BAR • $$ 4341 M72 E., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.8800
Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773
Smoke and Porter Public House A new American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020
Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG, 231.534.8888
Thai Café Eat in or take out authentic Thai cuisine in a cafe atmosphere. LD • $-$$ 1219 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,
TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4648
Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$ 717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213
Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.8989
West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE new
CITY, 231.943.2922
FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ ONEKAMA/BEULAH
Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399
The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails). BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114
Lucky Dog Bar & Grill Fire-grilled brats, tacos, burgers, smoked wings, craft beer, wine, liquor. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499
Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118
Yellow Dog Café Fabulous coffee, sandwiches, baked goods. LD $ 4850 MAIN ST, ONEKAMA, 231.508.5008
231.929.1303
The Soup Cup, a MicroSouperie Homemade soups, grilled cheese, Belgian fries. L • $ 718 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.7687
Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants! Go to MyNorth.com/restaurants
local table | dining
PULL OVER FOR PASTIES If the number of road signs for pasty shops popping up amid the wooded hillsides and beach towns of the U.P. are any indication, these meat-and-root-veggie hand pies have now evolved to “world’s-perfect-road-food” status. Whether you are grabbing a five-buck lunch or filling the cooler by the dozen, here are a few beloved pasty pit stops:
THE PASTY OVEN
EPOUFETTE BAYVIEW INN
W7279 US 2, QUINNESEC | 906.776.0990 | PASTYS.COM The LTR (Large Traditional with Rutabaga) has a just-right balance of beef-and-pork filling to golden crust. They’re simply wonderful. Road trip bonus: ample truck and camper parking.
W5961 US 2, NAUBINWAY | 906.292.0061 Turn in for a house-made beef pasty with gravy and slaw for less than $10, and linger over the million-dollar view of Lake Michigan. There are binoculars at the tables to really take it all in.
IRONTOWN PASTIES
MR. FOISIE’S PASTIES 154 LEISURE ST., CADILLAC | 231.779.9042 The U.P. Cornish miners might scoff at this meatless wonder— until they tasted it. What a crust (!) and the skin-on potato, onions, cauliflower, broccoli, carrots and rutabeggie inside are robust and well-seasoned. —Emily Tyra
801 N. TEAL LAKE AVE, NEGAUNEE | 906.475.6828 | IRONTOWNPASTIES.COM They serve the classics to be sure, plus gluten-free and vegan options (both with one-hour notice) so everyone in the station wagon is happy. The Bacon Cheeseburger or Jalapeño Popper Mini Pasties make for irresistible Yooper fast food.
BELOW THE BRIDGE
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LOCAL TICKETS ONE PLACE 4/4-13
MARJORIE PRIME
OTP Studio Theatre at the Depot, Traverse City
4/5-7
PILGRIM, HER STORY SUNDAY Great Lakes Center for the Arts, Bay Harbor
4/6
3RD ANNUAL HOPFEST City Park Grill, Petoskey
4/7
FLIGHTS OF FANCY - EAT DESSERT FIRST 123 Speakeasy, Traverse City
4/22
YOUNG CHEFS DINNER The Cook’s House, Traverse City
4/27
SHORT’S BREWING COMPANY’S ANNIVERSARY PARTY 15 Short’s Brewing Company, Bellaire
MYNORTHTICKETS.COM // 800.836.0717 // 125 PARK STREET // TRAVERSE CITY MyNorth is home of MyNorthTickets and Traverse Magazine
brew | drinks
TC BREWERY TRAIL TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER
RIGHT BRAIN BREWERY
With winter’s vortices safely tucked away at the poles where they belong, it’s time to shed the parka, slip on the shades and hit a few of Traverse City’s breweries for a celebratory pint. Wedged between the waters of West Grand Traverse Bay and the Boardman River, TC’s proximate local microbreweries offer ale enthusiasts easy Saturday afternoon sipping. Here’s a handful of essential stops. THE FILLING STATION MICROBREWERY THEFILLINGSTATIONMICROBREWERY.COM | 231.946.8168 Filling Station’s Neapolitan style wood-fired pizzas are a tasty bulwark against the beer flood enabled by 18 rotating taps of house-brewed ales.
MONKEY FIST BREWING COMPANY MONKEYFISTBREWINGCO.COM | 231.943.2739 Housed in the State Street Marketplace, TC’s bustling food hall, Monkey Fist pushes well-balanced IPA’s like the Pen Hopper.
RIGHT BRAIN BREWERY RIGHTBRAINBREWERY.COM | 231.944.1239 Keep it conservative with RB’s session-worthy Satisfaction ESB or explore the world of avant garde sour infusions like the Who Gose There Celery Juniper.
SILVER SPRUCE BREWING SILVERSPRUCEBREWING.COM | 231.252.3552 Refined, dangerously drinkable ales like the oat pale and Michigan pale make for a chill lingering session in Silver Spruce’s industrial chic 8th Street environs. PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER
WORKSHOP BREWING COMPANY WORKSHOPBREWING.COM | 231.421.8977 Plunder the swank warehouse district boutiques, refuel with an espresso at BLK MKT then cap your brewery tour on Workshop’s patio with a roasty pint of Pry Bar Nitro Porter. Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com Dave Weidner is a freelance photographer based in Traverse City. dweidnerphoto@gmail.com.
SIP, PADDLE AND ROLL These outfitters are ready to guide you through the Traverse City suds scene.
BOAT
KAYAK BREWERY TOURS KAYAKBREWERYTOURS.COM | 231.760.8828 Bask in the perfect synergy of pints, pfd’s and paddles on the Boardman River Kabrew trail.
BIKE
PADDLE TC PADDLETC.COM | 231.482.0223 To cover good ground and even burn a few calories between taprooms, hop on a cruiser or electric assist bike for Paddle TC’s ‘Brewbi’ tour.
BUS
GRAND TRAVERSE TOURS GRANDTRAVERSETOURS.COM | 231.947.7433 Load a cooler with provisions and hit up the breweries like a baller in one of Grand Traverse Tours’ tricked out Mercedes Benz shuttles.
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love of the land
Crothers Farm, Camp Daggett Road PHOTO BY TODD PARKER
In 1948, Glenn and Marie Crothers established a farm nestled in the hills of Resort Township in Emmet County for crops, hay, beef cattle and timber. The Crothers children walked two miles each way to the local one-room schoolhouse—The Carpenter School—until transferring to Petoskey schools after sixth grade. Before purchasing their first tractor, the Crothers used draft horses to do most of their work. Daughter Eleanor recalls the last team they had: Prince and Maude. In the early 1990s, Glenn and Marie left the farm to their children Eleanor, Robert and Benjamin. The siblings still manage a beef cattle herd and selectively harvest 16 acres of forested land. Eleanor also grows tomatoes and flowers. Last fall, Little Traverse Conservancy announced that the Crothers Farm, comprising 84 acres of gently rolling open pasture with views of Walloon Lake and Little Traverse Bay, will remain farmland forever. This moment marked the completion of the first voluntary township-based Purchase of Development Rights (PDR) project ever to occur within the Little Traverse Conservancy’s five-county area. The Crothers farmland is preserved using a conservation easement, a land protection tool for private landowners. For more information about the PDR program and ways to protect Northern Michigan farmland, contact the Little Traverse Conservancy, the oldest nonprofit regional land trust in Michigan. LANDTRUST.ORG 48
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