Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine, May 2021 by MyNorth

PRO FORAGING TIPS FOR MOREL SEASON!

Traverse p.26

p.30

p.20

Real Estate Mackinac Island Wildf lower Dinner Party Hikes Dreams

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

A STELLAR PERFORMANCE ★

Explore The North's Night Sky p. 34

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Traverse 05.21 INSIDE

F E AT U R E S

MyNorth .com DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH, PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.

34 EXPLORE THE NORTH’S NIGHT SKY

Comet NEOWISE seen over Elk Rapids in July 2020. Photo by Allison Jarrell.

Find out where to view dark skies and how to catch this year’s notable stargazing events (including views of the “Superior Planets”– the most distant cosmic objects visible from Earth).

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WHERE THE WILDFLOWERS ARE

MAHOGANY, PASSION FRUIT AND CHAMPAGNE

FINDING THE NORTHERN DREAM

Stop and smell the spring ephemerals at three natural areas with gorgeous hikes in Bellaire, Lake Leelanau and Arcadia.

Eight friends gather at Mission Point Resort on Mackinac Island to celebrate summer with a dinner party and sunset cruise. Plus, tips for hosting your own soirée!

A retired couple and a family of five search for a place to call home Up North. View some of the fabulous properties they toured; which one would you pick?

CONTRIBUTING TEXT BY TIM COHAN

B Y K A I T LY N M C L I N T O C K

PHOTOS BY JOSH HARTMAN PHOTOGRAPHY

& C A R LY S I M P S O N

PHOTOS AND TEXT BY ALLISON JARRELL

& NICOLE GERI PHOTOGRAPHY

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

4/6/21 7:58 PM

photo by Brian Confer

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7 | EDITOR'S NOTE Ann Porter ASSOCIATE BROKER

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11 | UP NORTH

Take part in perhaps the most-loved spring tradition in the North— morel hunting!

18 | MAY EVENTS

May brings plenty of hiking, biking, festivals and farmers markets.

19 | TRAVEL

Enjoy a walk in the woods (and stay in a cozy nearby rental) with these weekend trip ideas.

45 | LAST CALL

The centuries-old gimlet gets a spring makeover with a homemade rhubarb cordial.

47 | OUTDOORS

Biking Hanson Hills lives up to its reputation—it can be a tough ride, but it’s worth every scenic view.

48 | LOVE OF THE LAND

From birding to wildflowers, this U.P. nature preserve was made for May adventures.

39 | THE CULINARY NORTH

A new café in Traverse City is making sure everyone feels welcome, and serving up delish vegetarian comfort food. Plus, new wine releases we can’t wait to sip this spring.

43 | ON THE TABLE

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These open-faced sandwiches, featuring fresh local radishes and smoked butter, are perfect for Derby Day.

ON THE COVER The Northern end of the Milky Way shot from Hurricane River Beach in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. PHOTO BY MARYBETH KICZENSKI

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Recipe of the Month from

Traverse

You belong on a

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER

Deborah Wyatt Fellows Michael Wnek

SENIOR EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL CONTENT WRITER & SOCIAL MEDIA PROJECT MANAGER CULINARY COLUMNIST

Vol. 40 | No. 12

Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell Rachel Soulliere Stacey Brugeman

PROOFREADERS

Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Andrew VanDrie Kandace Chapple Kim Schneider Heather Durocher

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Tim Hussey Theresa Burau-Baehr

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson Claire Houser Jen Berigan

GRAPHIC DESIGNER WEB DIRECTOR

DIRECTOR OF SALES SENIOR SALES ADVISOR SALES ACCOUNT COORDINATOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

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• 1 (4-5 pound) pork shoulder, excess fat trimmed, cut into 3 inch chunks • 1 cup chicken stock • 1 medium white onion, thinly sliced • 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped • 1 Tbsp chipotle powder (or 1 canned chipotle in adobo finely chopped) • 2 tsp ground cumin • 1 tsp black pepper • 1 tsp chili powder • 1 1/2 tsp salt

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Visit MyNorth.com/Account to renew your subscription, change your address, or review your account. Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800-678-3416 between 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST. Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Prism Publications Inc., 125 S Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $24.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2021, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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Add all ingredients to a large slow cooker, and stir. Cook on low for 6-8 hours until the pork is fork tender. Fill into warm tortillas and add desired toppings. Additional toppings: chopped white onion, crumbled cotija cheese, Mexican crema or sour cream, fresh cilantro, thinly sliced jalapenos, sliced radish, diced avocado, lime wedges. Our products are also found at Grand Traverse Distillery on Front St. in Traverse City; check the Store Locator on our website for other retail locations.

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Editor's Note

SAVORING SPRING DAYS by DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

photo by Todd Zawistowski

or a long time, i had two favorite days that aren’t holidays— the summer and winter solstice. Summer is obvious, the longest day of the year, and picture-perfect for celebrating outside as the last color eases away at what seems like midnight. Who could not relish the summer solstice? I love the winter solstice, but not for the reasons so many do—for most, it's that the shortest day of the year means the next day we begin our return to light. Don’t get me wrong. I love that. But the winter solstice for me is about stopping to be grateful for all that the dark mornings and evenings offer my life. Unlike the summer solstice, spent wringing every last glorious moment out of time on the lake or at the beach, the winter solstice speaks to the quiet, the cozy, giving us all permission to sip a cup of coffee, with a book and a blanket, and a fire. The shortest day of the year falls just before Christmas, so tree lights glow against the dark, snow-blown (hopefully) windows. And in the fire’s glow, I always stop to acknowledge this shortest day with gratitude for the peace it brings. But for the last few decades, I have added another favorite day: The day the new leaves pop in spring. We’ve all celebrated the return of green, but there is a moment when the new leaves are so brilliantly green, that if you stand in the woods, it feels like you have landed in the land of fairies. Truly, it is magical. You have to pay some attention because when they pop, they pop quickly—some years the buds looking about to burst linger longer than others. There is no predicting exactly when the leaves will appear, but my

unscientific study says it’s usually in the days around May 7-10. And they don’t stay fairy green for long before they darken into the lush, green forests we all love. Do yourself a favor and head to your favorite trail when you first see the leaves pop. But as this month’s feature “Where the Wildflowers Are” reminds us, there are so many glorious reasons to take a spring hike. The three hikes featured are beautiful any time of the year, but having tips on which wildflowers you will see makes hiking these trails in spring even more wonderful. The wildflower feature is written by our Managing Editor, Allison Jarrell,who went on the three featured hikes in May of 2020, just two-and-a-half months after moving to Northern Michigan from California. Allison, and her dog, Rascal, arrived in the North at the end of February, and she had worked in the office for less than two weeks before the whole staff went to remote work due to COVID-19. So, this young woman, basically knowing no one, went home to her apartment and stayed there. And Rascal learned how to wear a sweater. Allison is a beautiful photographer as well as writer, so as soon as she could, she began getting outdoors. I love the image of Allison discovering forest floors of wildflowers, lush NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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canopies of trees, wetlands coming to life and spectacular views, for the first time. It feels like getting an introduction to spring in her new home, during a pandemic, is built into every photo and every word. (And can I say, we have Zoom meetings every week, and Allison’s truly beautiful smile and positive spirit never faded as time away from people went from months to more than a year. Not sure about Rascal, but I understand he has learned to accept winter.) Want to explore more spring wildflower hikes but not sure where or when? Be sure to check out the websites of Leelanau Conservancy, Little Traverse Conservancy and the Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy, which do all kinds of guided hikes. I do have one caveat to add to a spring hike: Mud. I’ve always thought it was important to stay on the path with the dogs (don’t get me started on dogs and mud), especially in spring when new growth is emerging. But we recently posted an article on MyNorth.com in which the Michigan Department of Natural Resources shares a few very good, simple tips about encountering mud on a trail. Mud poses real challenges, and the DNR’s piece starts with, “Simply put, riding or walking on a muddy trail destroys the surface. It leaves ruts, deep holes, uneven tire prints, footprints and contributes to erosion. All of these items can lead to a very hard-to-fix trail surface.” The post contains some really good tips for hikers, bikers and horseback riders for what to do if you encounter mud on the trail. MyNorth.com/ MudSeason. Celebrate spring this year by giving yourself the gift of new, shimmering, brilliant green leaves and magical forests blanketed in trillium as far as the eye can see. And don’t be surprised if your first spring hike becomes one of your new favorite days.

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth.com. debwf@traversemagazine.com

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2021 Marvin Lumber and Cedar Co., LLC.

4/8/21 10:44 AM

MOREL MADNESS by THE MYNORTH TEAM

Take part in perhaps the most-loved spring tradition Up North.

t ’s may, and that means we’re hunting for morels in Northern Michigan. Here we share 13 of the best tips we’ve gathered over the years from foragers and chefs.

WHEN TO LOOK

HOW TO FIND

• Morels are notorious for being difficult to track down but if you look for tree groves mixed with living, dead and dying ash, elm, oak and aspen trees your chances of success will increase. Morels are also found under pine trees, in apple orchards and even in backyards around woodchip piles. • If you’re a beginner mushroom hunter, print a color picture of your prey (the morel). This will aid in training your eyes to spot these camouflaged delicacies. You’ll also have a useful reference when you think you have located a NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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photo by Brian Confer

• Morel season lasts for five to six weeks. You start with the black morels (look near poplars and aspen) then you have a crossover period with blacks and whites, and at the end of the season, it’s only whites (common near ash trees). During the crossover, that’s when you go to an apple orchard … if you can find one that’s from an old abandoned farm, maybe 100 years old, it’s perfect. • Morels grow best in spring, mid-April to late May, when daytime temps reach around 60–65 degrees and evening temps stay above 50 degrees. This helps to warm the soil to 50+ degrees, which is important for morel mushrooms and many other fungi to grow. • It’s all about the rain. The mushrooms don’t look at the calendar and say, “Hey, it’s April 25th, we need to get out there! ” They look at the weather. When we get the rain, we get the morels. But even in a light rain, or if there's moisture left over from winter, they will grow.

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morel. There are a few other mushrooms that look similar (some are poisonous) and you don’t want to make that mistake. • Know that where there’s one morel, there are probably more. If you spot one, stop, crouch down near ground level and scan the horizon 20 feet out in all directions. Getting down near the ground helps you spot them against the backdrop of a lighter colored sky. • Some people go out for 45 minutes and say they can’t find anything. You’ve got to make it an all-day activity. You go out all morning. You take your lunch and eat it in the woods. And you keep going. If you’re really hunting for mushrooms, you put your time in and cover a lot of ground. HOW TO STORE

• To avoid storing wet mushrooms, which can go bad quickly, don’t rinse or wash morels until you’re ready to use them. Keep them fresh in a brown bag or a bowl with a damp paper towel over them in the fridge. • Resist the urge to hoard your morels; they’re best eaten within four days of picking them. HOW TO CLEAN

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• To clean fresh morels, fill a large bowl with cool water—enough so the morels float. Pour a good amount of salt in the bowl and swish the mushrooms around gently to draw out any bugs. Rinse with fresh water to remove excess salt. HOW TO COOK

• Keep it classic: When you’re ready to cook them, cut lengthwise and place in a pan with butter. Add salt and pepper to taste (optional). Morels don’t have to cook long; 5–10 minutes should do it. • Spice it up: For seasonings, try garlic, lemon, nutmeg, tarragon, thyme or a splash of Marsala, sherry or port. Keep it fairly simple though—you don’t want to disturb the morels’ own complex flavor. • Dried morels work the same as fresh in most recipes. Rehydrate in very hot water, broth or wine. You can strain this liquid with a very fine sieve and use it as a base in your sauce. The morels’ flavor will infuse the broth and wine and add depth to your dish.

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Up North A rendering of Grand Hotel's renovated Esther Williams swimming pool area.

ISLAND TIME by CARLY SIMPSON

New this season at Mackinac Island hotels, resorts and inns.

image courtesy of Grand Hotel

Grand Hotel Over the winter, the property’s Esther Williams swimming pool underwent extensive renovations. When Grand Hotel reopens for the season on May 7, guests will find expanded outdoor spaces for leisure and mingling; 15 reserveable poolside cabanas; a family-friendly area complete with a zero-depth beach entry, water-jet play area and water slide; family-friendly events like dive-in movie nights; a heated whirlpool and a private, adults-only pool area featuring an infinity edge with incredible views of the island. Along with the pool renovation, the pool house is being reconstructed and expanded to contain a fitness center and bathhouse, complete with changing rooms, lockers and showers. Additionally, The Grand will debut a pool bar and kitchen with elevated cocktails and bites. Groups can take advantage of a dedicated area for private events and the addition of a meeting and event space on the second floor of the pool house that includes covered outdoor seating with unobstructed views of the Straits of Mackinac. Mission Point In 2020, Mission Point completed the Promenade Deck Pavilion, an outdoor event space. “We have a lot of hope for this upcoming year as people begin to get together again to reconnect over all the moments that were missed in 2020,” says PR & Marketing Manager Sarah Ombry. “Imagine Christmas in July, Friendsgiving parties, birthdays, anniversaries, weddings, company retreats and

so many more celebrations.” The resort has also rebranded its restaurants. Chianti, Bistro on the Greens and Round Island Kitchen (formerly Round Island Bar & Grill) all have a fresh look. A bonus—all of the restaurants also have outdoor seating options with views of Lake Huron. Lastly, the resort is improving its Mission Point Picnic Society (a chance to get outdoors and enjoy a meal on the front lawn) with expanded offerings from the on-site Boxwood Coffeeshop & Café. Inn at Stonecliffe The Lawn at Stonecliffe is a new restaurant concept focused on casual, outdoor dining with fantastic views of the Mackinac Bridge. While the menu was still being finalized at press time, Director of Sales & Marketing Becky Miller tells us The Lawn will be open for lunch and dinner and anyone is welcome to dine, including non-guests. “We are going to have music throughout the season, as well as our lawn games that are always available,” Becky says. “We are excited to offer guests a space to sprawl out on the expansive lawns, enjoy the views and have great food and drinks. The outdoor seating is pet friendly and the restaurant is very family friendly.” Find out what’s new at Hotel Iroquois, Island House, Chippewa Hotel Waterfront and Lilac Tree Suites & Spa at MyNorth.com/MackinacIslandHotels.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Up North

MAY IS BIKE MONTH Norte, a Traverse City-based, youth-focused nonprofit dedicated to building stronger, better connected and more walk/bike friendly communities, has lots of ways to celebrate. Let’s ride! elgruponorte.org ALL MONTH

SPRING READS “The Clover Girls” by Viola Shipman Being published May 18, “The Clover Girls” is about four very different girls who become best friends at a Michigan summer camp in the 1980s. Now approaching middle age, the women are facing challenges they never imagined as teens: struggles with their marriages, children and careers. “My novels are meant to be shared amongst friends and family and generations, like the books that were shared with me growing up,” says internationally bestselling author Wade Rouse, who chose his grandmother's name, Viola Shipman, as his pen name. “I want to remind readers to slow down and remember what matters most in life.” “Early Morning Riser” by Katherine Heiny Published April 13, the novel is a love letter to the Boyne City area, taking readers to the Boyne River Inn, Avalanche Mountain, Kilwins and more. Author Katherine Heiny grew up in Michigan, and she and her husband owned a home in Boyne City for almost 20 years. They sold the house last year, and as movers were packing up, Katherine wrote the last pages. “It will forever be one of my favorite places,” she says. “And I like to think that Jane is still there.” Jane, the main character, moves to Boyne City to teach second grade and soon falls for Duncan, who has seemingly slept with every woman in town, though somehow, has remained friendly with them all—helping with housework, fixing furniture, mowing lawns. As Jane begins to wonder if this is the life she wants, an accident leaves her inextricably tied to Duncan, and she learns unconventional families are sometimes the best of all. “Cady and the Bear Necklace” by Ann Dallman After teaching high school English for 15 years at Hannahville Indian School/Nah Tah Wahsh School located on a Potawatomi reservation in the Upper Peninsula, Ann Dallman was inspired to write her first middlegrade novel, "Cady and the Bear Necklace," published in May 2019. In it, Cady, a 13-year-old girl of Native American heritage, has experienced big changes in her life: her father's marriage to a much younger woman, a new baby brother and a move from Minnesota to Michigan, where she's attending a reservation school for the first time in her life. One day, Cady discovers an antique Native American beaded necklace hidden in the floor of her closet. As she works to solve the mystery of the necklace, she's drawn closer to the teachings and traditions of her culture.

Get Your Bike Rolling at the Community Bike Shop: Norte shares tools, work-bench space, bikes and knowledge. The Clubhouse’s Community Bike Shop is free to all Monday–Friday, 10–6, and Saturday, 10–2. MAY 1

Bicicleta Launch at Silver Spruce: Silver Spruce Brewing Company is re-launching their “Bicicleta” brew May 1 and offering it for one month only. $1 from each pint will benefit Norte. MAY 2

Previously Loved Bicycle Yard Sale: Norte’s annual yard sale is open to the public. You’re invited to sell an old bike or pick up a previously loved set of wheels. Proceeds support Norte’s Kids Bike Library. MAY 3

Norte Youth Mountain Bike Team Practice: The Grand Traverse Region Mountain Bike Team hits the trails of Northern Michigan with sensational elementary, middle and high school students. The season runs through June 4. MAY 5

Northern Michigan Bikes to School Day: A region-wide, multi-school celebration of National Bike to School Day. It could quite possibly be the most fantastic day of kids on bikes in Northern Michigan history. MAY 9

Norte Family Trail Rides: This is a weekly family-friendly mountain bike ride in the woods. It’s family speed, but getting dirty and meeting new friends is encouraged. May 9 marks the kickoff with the 5th Annual Take a Mom Mountain Biking Day. This ride happens every Sunday at noon. Find the full list of events at MyNorth.com/BikeMonth. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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PA I D C O N T E N T

Fabulous

BIRCHWOOD FARMS If you’re looking for golf, community, activities and beauty, Birchwood Farms Golf and Country Club in Harbor Springs is the answer.

BY K I M S C HN E I D E R

pring among birchwood farms golf and Country Club’s 1,600 acres of rolling hills brings verdant forests blooming with trillium and dotted with morels. Come October, forests of fall color frame Lake Michigan views; in winter, trails amid silent pines are groomed for outings on skis or snowshoes. Birchwood Farms has long offered access to this landscape packed with solace and fun to Birchwood residents; now, for the first time, anyone can enjoy the scenery as well as the thriving community of friends. Head to the clubhouse, comment on a euchre game that’s underway amid a lot of laughter, and you’ll likely be invited to pull up a chair. Then round the corner and find yourself asked to join a group for drinks at the social hour following an impromptu women’s golf scramble on one of the three courses. “From the time we moved up, there were game nights, potluck dinners, wine tastings,” says Neil Loney, a board member who, this day, is lounging in the sunshine with his wife, Pat, on a patio overlooking the scenic golf course. Whether it’s the beer and bocce league or “dink and a drink” night (themed around a pickleball move involving a tap over the net), existing activities almost always come with a clever twist. But there’s serious play, too, on the championship golf courses, clay tennis courts and four designated pickleball courts. 16

Birchwood’s new general membership option offers all club amenities including golf. This club membership allows for unlimited play on three courses designed by Jerry Matthews, notable for their design and dramatic elevation changes. There’s also a social membership option that leaves out golf but includes the private dining program, clay tennis courts, pickleball, fitness club, championship pool, cooking classes and more. > Dine the Birchwood Way A certified sommelier with a background in food, beverage and experience at the Detroit Athletic Club among other places, General Manager Paul Marazzo focused some early energy on elevating the club’s dining program. He selected Culinary Institute of America-trained chef Michael Starkey from a national field of 400 applicants. Chef Starkey’s known for his kindness, warmth and motto, “failure is not an option,” Marazzo says. “I’ve never seen him say ‘No,’ he couldn’t do something for a member.” That the membership “thinks he walks on water” is evident as you stroll with him to the dining room and see how he’s greeted like a rock star. His reverence for food is just as evident if you ask for a “sampler” and watch the beautifully plated courses appear, starting with a poke bowl featuring salmon he sourced from Maui—fish straight from the Molokai channel to Birchwood.

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PA I D C O N T E N T

Members and their guests can opt for items from the regular menu or the week’s culinary features; this particular week’s options include Wyoming elk, a wild mushroom leek strudel and a fall farmer’s salad of vegetables locally sourced down to the apple cider cream dressing. Special requests are Starkey’s specialty; if a member can’t decide between two styles of fresh, black grouper or Chilean sea bass, he’s known to offer them a side-by-side tasting.

Era potato chip company and also a place for employee recreation. The course of Birchwood took a dramatic new direction when the farm was purchased in 1971 by Bill E. Cottrill, a land developer from the Flint/ Grand Blanc area, who transformed the property into one of the most desirable residential/resort communities in the Midwest. Pamphlets at the time billed Birchwood as a place where “the most desirable modern aspects of

> A Club with a Tasteful Past The land upon which Birchwood now sits was homesteaded in the mid-1800s and sold in 1913 to Chicago banker Joseph E. Otis who named the estate Birchwood Farm and set out to create a model dairy farm. By all accounts, he succeeded. His chickens produced the largest eggs in Emmet County, his strawberries were perhaps the largest and the cream from the cows extra heavy, the milk extra rich. His purebred Jersey cows took first place every year at the local fair until he sold the farm for the production of beef cattle. In 1959, the farm took on new life as a potato seed farm for the New

luxurious leisure living are added to the most sought-after heritages of a peaceful American past.” It was a place, then and perhaps now, where “interesting and appealing individuals can share common sports and social interests; where there is peace of mind and security in feeling confident that almost certainly will nothing more tempting appear on the horizon; where it is genuinely possible to enjoy a second life of leisure away from the crowds and tensions of workaday metropolitan areas without sacrificing one whit of the comforts, convenience and luxuries we all have come to take for granted.”

Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she’s the author of “100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die.” NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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TIX Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

May edited by LIBBY STALLMAN

TUE

THU

SAT

Norte’s Spring Youth Mountain Biking season starts today and runs for five weeks, empowering young people to be independent and strong. elgruponorte.org In Birding 101 at North Central Michigan College, learn the basics, such as optics, field guides, birding technology, predicting migratory flights using weather and radar, attracting birds to your yard and how to find and identify birds during a four-session workshop. ncmclifelonglearning.com Art in the Afternoon is an open studio opportunity for all art enthusiasts. On Thursday afternoons from 1–3:30 p.m., artists and makers can work in a supportive setting sharing ideas and concepts with the Charlevoix Circle of Arts program. charlevoixcircle.org The Mesick Mushroom Festival 5K Glow Run/Walk takes participants along the beautiful Manistee River and scenic trails, where you may even find morels to pick throughout the course! The festival runs May 7–9 with additional activities. mesick-mushroomfest.org

THU

Stream story time, a craft session or a class with your little one. Traverse City’s Great Lakes Children’s Museum is offering live virtual programming on Thursdays and Fridays. Today’s Storytime Live is “Diary of a Worm,” by Doreen Cronin. greatlakeskids.org

FRI

The National Morel Festival is set for May 14–16 in Boyne City. The festival has been downscaled for safety but still includes arts and crafts, morel hunting, a morel dinner and more. bcmorelfestival.com

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Visit the Inn at Black Star Farms in Suttons Bay for a wine-paired culinary experience inspired by seasonal ingredients, including morels. The evening begins at 6:30 p.m. with a cocktail reception and brief mushroom presentation by an area expert; dinner follows at 7 p.m. MyNorthTickets.com TIX

SAT

St. Ignace’s annual Native American Festival is a time to recognize and celebrate the rich culture and contributions of the area’s Anishinaabe people. The event is held on the grounds of the Museum of Ojibwa Culture and activities are free. May 28–30. stignace.com

SAT

A longstanding tradition, the Harbor Springs Farmers Market returns every Saturday starting today. harborspringschamber.com

SUN

The North Mitten Half Marathon, 10K and 5K is a combination of paved roads, dirt roads and trails on Crystal Mountain’s property. A great race for beginners and experienced runners. crystalmountain.com

MON

It's Local Appreciation Day at Castle Farms in Charlevoix. All residents with a valid drivers license from Charlevoix, Emmet, Antrim, Otsego or Cheboygan counties tour for free. castlefarms.com

MON

Memorial Day

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photo by Allison Jarrell

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Please note, as these dates approach, some events may be modified, postponed or canceled to protect the safety of both event organizers and attendees. Check online or call ahead to confirm details. Throughout the year, visit MyNorth.com/Events for current community happenings.

FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS

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Travel

INTO SPRING WOODS by HEATHER JOHNSON DUROCHER

May’s vibrant colors are popping, and they’re calling to us—get outside and explore! Here are four weekend trips with Airbnb rentals ideal for getting away and (safely) experiencing all that nature offers this time of year.

photo by Dave Weidner

STAY NEAR THE WATER “Lola’s Retreat,” a quaint and tidy one-bedroom, one-bathroom guest house a block from a spectacular waterfront park near downtown St. Ignace, is perfectly located for nearby day trips to the Lake Michigan shoreline, including the can’t-not-stop Brevort beaches, and forested trails. Its price is right, too, starting at $95/night. airbnb.com Explore: About a 15-minute drive west is Hiawatha National Forest and the 10-mile Sand Dunes Trail, home to numerous rare and endangered dune species. At dusk, the dunes are simply stunning against the setting sun or moon. fs.usda.gov/hiawatha STAY IN THE COUNTRY “Traverse City Cabin in the Woods” is a quiet, secluded second-story cabin/apartment about 20 minutes outside of the city. You’ve got miles of trails just outside your front door when staying at this one-bedroom (sleeps four) spot that starts at $125/night. If unavailable (it’s a “rare find” property), check out “Cedar Wood,” a two-bedroom apartment on the east side of Traverse City near the Vasa Pathway, with nightly rates starting at $75. airbnb.com Explore: From either lodging location, travel a short distance (about a 15-minute drive) to Brown Bridge Quiet Area, an approximately 1,300-acre, city-owned swath of land and water. The Boardman River runs through the property, and until the fall of 2012, the Quiet Area was also the site of Brown Bridge Pond. (Brown Bridge Pond was formed by the construction of the Brown Bridge Dam in 1922.) The removal of Brown Bridge Dam eliminated the pond and has allowed the Boardman River to return to its historic channel and status as a high-quality free-flowing river. There are gorgeous views, whether walking the trails that take you close to the river or along the ridge overlooking the valley and river below. natureiscalling.org

Brown Bridge Quiet Area

STAY WITH YOUR DOG Traveling with your four-legged companion? We found a onebedroom home in Manistee close to local amenities and nature (search “pet friendly one bedroom near everything”). It’s just a two- or three-block walk to restaurants, shops and the Vogue Theatre, and two public beaches are a short walk or bike ride away. This listing allows one dog per visit. airbnb.com Explore: Just south of Manistee on Lake Michigan is Magoon Creek, home to biking and hiking trails. It’s a terrific spot for an afternoon picnic at the beach. Or use one of the many picnic tables or covered pavilions nestled high atop a 150-foot bluff—the view is breathtaking. You’ll see dunes to the south and the Manistee North Pier Lighthouse to the north. visitmanisteecounty.com STAY IN TOWN The location of this cozy and modern two-bedroom apartment named “Getaway by the Bay” in downtown Munising puts you close to everything. Walk to restaurants and the city pier, where the Pictured Rocks boat cruises dock. airbnb.com Explore: The hiking possibilities are endless—so many waterfalls to see in this area of the U.P.—but if you’re looking to get out on the water or want to explore on two wheels, several businesses are close by to rent bicycles and kayaks. You’ll also find several spots that offer guided kayak tours of Pictured Rocks, such as Pictured Rocks Kayaking. paddlepicturedrocks.com Heather Johnson Durocher writes from Traverse City, where she lives with her husband, Joe, and their three kids. She is the founder of the travel and active lifestyle site MichiganRunnerGirl.com and also hosts a weekly podcast. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Are

Whe

ldflow i W e

FOR

YOUR FL WER THE O

Y AP

PHOTOS AND TEXT BY ALLISON JARRELL

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Wild Violets, Clay Cliffs Natural Area These early bloomers are edible and make beautiful additions to salads, drinks and baked goods (recipe ideas: MyNorth.com/WildViolets).

Each

spring, like the burgeoning flora along the forest floor, we bend toward the light—stretching our limbs in the warm sunshine and breathing in the heady aroma of fresh flowers, finally in bloom. I often dreamt of this moment on winter days—feverishly planning wildflower road trips while quarantined in my Traverse City apartment. The fresh Northwoods air, sweet songbird melodies and lush landscapes dappled with pops of color would be a muchneeded respite from a waning winter, marred by the pandemic, that hung heavy on the heart. Spring brought renewed hope and its signature sense of rebirth. I picked three woods where I could find a wide array of spring ephemerals (including our beloved trillium)—Pete’s Woods in Arcadia Dunes: The C.S. Mott Nature Preserve, Clay Cliffs Natural Area in Lake Leelanau and Grass River Natural Area in Bellaire. With blue skies overhead and warmth in the air, I wandered these preserves and their meandering pathways, reassured by the prismatic blanket of wildflowers sprouting from the thawed earth. Each vibrant, perfumed petal was a gift—a precious reminder to always make time to stop and smell the flowers.

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Trillium abound on a Clay Cliffs Natural Area trail.

Grass River Natural Area 6500 ALDEN HWY., BELLAIRE

grassriver.org

The first stop on my wildflower tour was Grass River Natural Area—a lush mixture of wetlands and upland forests spanning 1,492 acres along Antrim County’s Chain of Lakes. Seven miles of trails (open from dawn ‘til dusk) weave through the natural area, giving you the option to mix and match shorter hikes. Boardwalks covering the Sedge Meadow and Fern Trails provide access to wetland flora and fauna and are wheelchair and stroller friendly, while the

Woodland, Chippewa, Nipissing, Algonquin and Rail Trails are upland forested dirt footpaths. I opted to stroll the boardwalk trails, hovering above the verdant wetland below. It was a meditative mid-May afternoon—the sun’s rays, streaming through the budding trees, danced across the path ahead while Finch Creek babbled in the distance (the creek is one of three cold spring-fed streams that run through the area and empty into Grass River). I felt my naturally fast-paced gait begin to slow, enjoying the sound of each step along the wooden boardwalk. Early spring ephemerals are often the shortest wildflowers, and this rang true at Grass River. I crouched down to examine the petite pops of color tucked among the moss and groundcover. Delicate pastel pink trailing arbutus hid under large waxy leaves. Purple and white wild violets peeked through last fall’s leaf litter. But the patches of bold marsh marigolds stole the spotlight that particular afternoon, their bright bursts of yellow beaming atop the grassy forest floor. A member of the buttercup family, marsh marigolds are true harbingers of spring, often blooming at the beginning of May in the Antrim County area. PRO TIP: Before you go, check out Grass River’s selfguided flower walk pamphlets, complete with average bloom times for each species found in the area. The nonprofit has individual guides for each month, May through August, on its website: grassriver.org. And if you can swing it, try getting out for a hike (at any of these areas) on a weekly basis this spring and summer—new flowers will be popping up daily! NEARBY SWEET SPOT: Whether you’re fueling up before your hike or looking to pack a trail snack, Alden Muffin Tin (9110 Helena Rd., Alden) has you covered. Just a six-minute drive from Grass River, this local favorite is known for their delectable muffins, cookies and scones—but their breakfast sandwiches and lunch offerings have a loyal following, too. Top it off with a coffee or tea to go. facebook.com/AldenMuffinTin

Clay Cliffs Natural Area 4755 N. MANITOU TRAIL, LAKE LEELANAU

leelanauconservancy.org Top: Marsh Marigold, Grass River Natural Area While marsh marigold petals look entirely yellow to humans, to insects, the upper part appears as a mixture of yellow and an ultraviolet color—“bee’s purple”—and the lower part is yellow. The flowers have 50-100 stamens, and are most commonly pollinated by hoverflies. Bottom: Trillium, Clay Cliffs Natural Area It’s common knowledge that picking trillium is illegal in Michigan, but do you know why? The three leaves below the flower are its only food source—a picked plant could die or take years to recover.

Stop number two—Clay Cliffs Natural Area—features a hardwood forested 1.5-mile trail nestled between Lake Leelanau and Lake Michigan. A more moderate hike with some hills, this path leads to a viewing platform perched atop the bluffs, with breathtaking panoramic views from 200 feet above Lake Michigan (i.e. sparkling open water as far as the eye can see). Later on in the hike—about halfway through—a meadow offers clear views of Lake Leelanau. The 104.5-acre natural area includes 1,700 feet of lake

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frontage between the two bodies of water, but in the spring, its claim to fame is its assortment of wildflowers—from trillium and Dutchman’s breeches to trout lilies and Carolina springbeauty. Newly opened trillium lined the winding trail in numbers far greater than I’ve ever seen, dancing in the warm spring breeze, with towering trout lilies and shy white and purple violets sprinkled throughout. I was so mesmerized by the sea of color that the Lake Michigan overlook nearly snuck up on me. Not to be outdone by the flowers, the crystal clear water shimmered below as it lapped up against the shore. But perhaps my favorite moment of this late-afternoon hike was toward the end, as I strolled along steep, forested slopes that caught the slanting light just right, illuminating a cascade of trillium. The glowing tissue paper petals created an ethereal scene that I could’ve basked in for hours. PRO TIP: Houdek Dunes Natural Area, only three miles north of Clay Cliffs, is another prime spot to peep wildflowers. Last spring—despite the close proximity—much of the natural area’s flora bloomed later than Clay Cliffs (I didn’t see many flowers in mid-May). But by early June, pink lady’s slipper peppered the dunes’ sandy trails.

Above: Trout Lilies, Clay Cliffs Natural Area Named for its large patterned leaves (which look like a brook or brown trout), trout lily flowers close at night and reopen each day—it’s thought that this is done to protect their pollen from moisture and unwanted pests. Opposite, clockwise: Dutchman's Breeches, Pete's Woods These upside down flowers resemble pantaloons hung up on a clothesline to dry and are pollinated by queen bees, as they have the strength to push into the opening, and their tongue is able to reach the nectar at the top of the flower’s spikes. Bellwort, Pete's Woods Also called “wild oats,” this dainty, dangling flower may look like it’s wilting, but that’s just how it blooms. Once they’ve finished flowering, the leaves and stems become more erect. Springbeauty, Pete's Woods One of the first spring ephemerals to bloom, this petite flower features distinctive dark pink veins that are UV reflective and act as nectar guides for pollinators. Jack in the Pulpit, Pete's Woods This perennial has the unique ability to change sex each year throughout its life, from male to female or vice versa. The plant makes this decision based on how much energy is stored in its stem (being female requires more energy!).

NEARBY SWEET SPOT: Travel a mere two miles to Leland’s Fishtown and you’ll stumble upon the Dam Candy Store (197 River St., Leland). Delight in an array of old-fashioned candies and hand-scooped ice cream. Next door, Village Cheese Shanty is a must if you’re looking to balance out your sugar rush with a savory pretzelbread sammie.damcandystore.com, villagecheeseshanty.com

Pete’s Woods Trail 7292 SWAMP RD., ARCADIA

gtrlc.org

Last, but certainly not least, I journeyed to Pete’s Woods— one of the most popular spots in the region for wildflower viewing. Tucked away in Arcadia Dunes: The C.S. Mott Nature Preserve, this 1.5-mile looped trail wends through 140 24

wooded acres—an experience that’s about as close as one can get to walking through an enchanted forest. The botanical diversity of the woods, and the abundance of flora throughout, were mindboggling at first glance—fields of trillium as far as the eye can see, swaths of yellow bellwort, trout lilies and celandine poppies, and what seemed like countless patches of Dutchman’s breeches and squirrel corn commingling. Carolina springbeauty and wild violets added pops of pink and purple, and I even spotted my first Jack-in-the-pulpit. The 1.5-mile hike would no doubt be a quick jaunt for most—several groups passed me on the narrow dirt path as I fawned over the gorgeous scenery around every bend—but you’ll be rewarded if you slow down and really soak in the sights and sounds of the forest. The trail buzzes with life in May—butterflies float leisurely about while bees, coated in pollen, wiggle in and out of the multicolored all-you-can-eat buffet. I recommend bringing some water on this hike—you’re going to want to spend a chunk of time getting acquainted with the flora here.

PRO TIP: Pollinators— namely very busy bumblebees— were out in full force during my hike. If you’re allergic, be sure to bring an EpiPen. During tick season, cover your legs by tucking your pants into your socks, and do a tick check after you exit the woods. Lastly, make sure to utilize the boot brush station at the entrance of the woods—this will help prevent the spread of invasive species such as garlic mustard. NEARBY SWEET SPOT: Head about seven miles to downtown Arcadia for sweet treats at Arcadia Ice House (17073 Northwood Hwy.)—a nostalgic ice cream parlor built from recycled lumber in the early 1900s. Choose from flavors like Mackinaw Fudge and Arcadia Maple Nut, made from Arcadia maple syrup and maple candy. arcadiaicehouse.com

Allison Jarrell is managing editor at Traverse Magazine. You can reach her at allison@mynorth.com, or follow her on Instagram at @allisonjarrellphotography.

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IF YOU GO FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THESE NATURAL AREAS AND THEIR FLORA, INCLUDING BLOOM CHARTS, FIELD GUIDES AND DIRECTIONS TO EACH N O R T H E R N M I C H I G A N ' S M A G A Z I N E 25 PRESERVE, VISIT MYNORTH.COM/ WILDFLOWERHIKES.

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Mahogany, Passion Fruit and Champagne Celebrating summer days with an island dinner party and sunset cruise. CONTRIBUTING TEXT BY TIM COHAN PHOTOS BY JOSH HARTMAN PHOTOGRAPHY & NICOLE GERI PHOTOGRAPHY

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The foundation of the design was assorted fruit from one of my favorite Traverse City sources, Woods and Waters. We featured dragon fruit, Meyer lemons, limes, kumquats, mandarin oranges and local blueberries. –Amy Hendrickson, Amy Kate Designs

t was a sunny summer evening that brought eight friends together for an intimate dinner party and serene sunset cruise around Mackinac Island. The island’s storybook setting offers quaint, quiet delights and the easier tempo of a more idyllic time—it’s a place where you can slow down, take a deep breath of fresh Northern Michigan air and listen to the reassuring clip-clop of horses’ hooves on a sun-dappled, tree-lined lane. Liz Ware and her brother, Mark—vice president of sales and marketing and CEO, respectively, of Mission Point Resort— hosted six of their friends and local business owners for an evening celebrating friendship and another successful summer season. Liz has a deep love and appreciation for the island and the hospitality industry, and wanted to share a unique and unforgettable experience with her friends and vendors. “I don’t often get the time to just sit, relax and enjoy great company,” Liz says. “And I never tire of pulling into the island’s harbor. It’s instant nostalgia and happiness.” At the start of the evening, a vibrant table awaited the Wares’ guests for a leisurely dinner al fresco at Mission Point, a picturesque 18-acre resort on Mackinac Island’s Lake Huron shoreline. The vision and event design, curated by Amy Hendrickson of Amy Kate Designs and Melissa Conradie of Conradie Event Design, was focused on summer, with its bright colors, blue water and plentiful sunshine. (Check out their tips on page 28 for hosting your own summer soirée.) Christina Findley, who runs Small Point Bed & Breakfast on the island with her husband, Brian, was elated when Mark and Liz invited them to dinner—a welcome respite from the all-consuming work of running a B&B. “On Mackinac Island, where beauty is commonplace, the gardens and great lawn of Mission Point stand out,” Christina says. “We were prepared

for something really special, but we were blown away when we rounded the corner. The table stood underneath an amazing bower of flowers [22 varieties and three types of foliage] that were as beautiful as they were fragrant. From the eclectic furniture to the luxurious linens, gleaming gold flatware and china, vintage glassware and personalized place cards and menus, nothing was generic or conventional.” Kelly Newell of Serradella, an East Jordan company specializing in upscale rentals and event decor, provided the “eclectic furniture” for the evening—but it was actually earlier that day that she spotted the perfect vintage table for the event while riding around the island. “Outside a house that was being renovated, I noticed some discarded furniture. When l returned later to inquire about it, the project foreman not only gifted me with it (‘We’ve been trying to get rid of that stuff for a year!’), he loaned me his bike and wagon to transport it,” Kelly says. After an “interesting” ride back to Mission Point—she was a bit of a spectacle biking down the main drag—Kelly gave the table a quick once-over with the “emergency” woodworking tools she

THIS EVENT TOOK PLACE PRE-PANDEMIC; PHOTOS DO NOT REFLECT CURRENT SOCIAL DISTANCING PROTOCOLS. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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TABLESCAPE TIPS Melissa Conradie, of Conradie Event Design, and Amy Hendrickson, of Amy Kate Designs, share how to create your own seasonal tablescape:

When building a tablescape, consider every table component to be important. Once you've chosen the botanicals, first consider the textiles, china and glassware being used. A crowded table is as unpleasant as a barren table, and both can appear either overstated or incomplete.

Think of what is in season locally, or what is enjoyed at that time of year. For instance, the inspiration for this dinner was to embrace the vibrant color palette of citrus tones, accented by the deep blue in the blueberries. There is nothing more delicious than enjoying citrus fruits on a summer day.

The peonies and other summer flowers came from our cutting gardens. We displayed several varieties of peonies, but the two most talked about were Coral Charm and the ever-so-sweet Sarah Bernhardt. Accompanying the peonies were the intoxicating garden roses—Kate and Miranda—and the Free Spirit rose. –Amy Hendrickson, Amy Kate Designs

For longevity, get to know your flower farm/florist. Choose flowers that work within the elements, and always process your flowers and hydrate them well before building your arrangements. Color blending is key to an aesthetically pleasing floral design. Working with a trio of bridging colors is best.

Be mindful of the elements. If you are dining al fresco, it’s important to make sure your tablescape decor is weighted in case of wind, such as shades protecting the flame of your candles and vessels that will not blow over.

Think outside of the box! Incorporate little details to personalize the experience and reflect the thought behind the event. Adding a lemon slice to a water glass or a menu card into a napkin are economical additions that elevate the design to a whole new level.

brought, and voila—a vintage hors d’oeuvres display was born. “Rescue, repurpose and reuse” is Kelly’s mantra. Guests were greeted with signature cocktails, crafted by Amber Jaeger McKenney of Tonic & Lime boutique bartending, and hors d’oeuvres on the Mission Point patio (think smoked salmon, pommes frites, baby radishes and tuna tartare with sesame ginger yuzu). James Morse, chef instructor at Great Lakes Culinary Institute and former executive chef at Boathouse Restaurant, catered the intimate three-course meal. The two plated courses were a hit among the friends—beet carpaccio salad (aged chèvre, basil-marinated cherries, mâche, 28

honey-roasted hazelnuts and passion fruit curd) followed by beef tenderloin, dauphinoise potatoes and locally sourced vegetables topped with a black truffle demi-glace. Chef James’ inspiration for the beet carpaccio came from his desire to improve the classic beet and goat cheese salad, while also playing on the traditional carpaccio with thinly sliced beets instead of beef or fish. “This version incorporates some of the same elements, but in a unique way,” he says. “Passion fruit curd substitutes for a vinaigrette in the salad preparation. With a drizzle of good olive oil and a sprinkling of flaky sea salt, the

Chef James Morse plates baby radishes alongside the evening's hors d'oeuvres.

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flavors blend on the plate to ‘dress’ the greens, vegetables, fruit, nuts and cheese. Passion fruit curd, or any citrus curd, also makes a great filling for cakes and tarts—or a simple dessert on its own, garnished with fresh seasonal berries or cookies.” (See Chef James' passion fruit curd recipe below.) Following dinner, the Wares and their guests took a horse-drawn carriage to the marina, where they boarded the 402—a vintage 65-foot yacht built by Huckins Yachts in 1970 and owned by the Ware family. Surrounded by the beautifully kept 402’s mahogany trim and teak and holly floors—under the hushed glow of a ravishing sunset on the Straits—the cruisers exalted in the calming summer breeze and gently lapping waters, enjoyed a gourmet dessert and toasted the bridge with flutes of champagne. “With a successful event like this, what starts as collaboration ends up as new friendships. The family grows,” Melissa Conradie says. “When we network and support each other, the possibilities really are endless.”

R E S O U R C E S CONRADIE EVENT DESIGN: EVENT PLANNING & DESIGN CONRADIEEVENTDESIGN.COM AMY KATE DESIGNS: FLORAL DESIGN & TABLETOP DECOR AMYKATEDESIGNS.COM MISSION POINT RESORT: VENUE MISSIONPOINT.COM BOATHOUSE RESTAURANT: CUISINE BOATHOUSEONWESTBAY.COM TONIC & LIME: BOUTIQUE BARTENDING TONICANDLIMEMI.COM HOLLY THOMAS DESIGNS: MENUS & PLACE CARDS HOLLYTHOMASDESIGN.COM SERRADELLA: VINTAGE RENTALS & DECOR SERRADELLASTYLE.COM

After dinner at the resort, guests enjoyed a sunset cruise on the Ware's vintage yacht, taking in views of the Straits.

GIGI & LACLEDE: VINTAGE GLASSWARE, PLATES & GOLD FLATWARE GIGIANDLACLEDE.WIXSITE.COM/GIGIANDLACLEDE JOSH HARTMAN PHOTOGRAPHY JOSHHARTMANPHOTOGRAPHY.COM NICOLE GERI PHOTOGRAPHY NICOLEGERIPHOTOGRAPHY.COM TABOR J PHOTO & FILM: VIDEOGRAPHER & AERIAL DRONE TABORJPHOTOFILM.COM BBJ LINENS: VELVET LINEN NAPKINS BBJLINEN.COM

Passion Fruit Curd

The Lavender Bee

Yield: 1 quart

Amber Jaeger McKenney, of Tonic & Lime, shares one of her favorite summer cocktails.

1 cup passion fruit purée* 12 egg yolks 2 cups sugar 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 pound butter

2 ounces gin (try Mammoth, Iron Fish or High Five Spirits) 1 ounce lavender honey syrup (recipe below) 1 ounce lemon juice Club soda to taste Shake gin, lavender honey syrup and lemon juice in a shaker with ice. Pour into a glass with fresh ice. Top with club soda and a lavender sprig garnish. This recipe can be batched by combining the gin, lavender honey syrup and lemon juice in a pitcher, serving it over ice and topping with soda.

*I used Andros or Boiron fruit purée, available online. Any citrus juice also makes a great curd. If you use citrus, be sure to zest the fruit, too, for maximum flavor, and strain the zest out after you incorporate the butter. 1. Put first four ingredients in a stainless steel mixing bowl, and whisk to combine. 2. Cook gently over a double boiler, stirring often until thickened, at about 160°.

LAVENDER HONEY SYRUP:

1/4 cup lavender flowers 1/4 cup honey 1/2 cup water Bring all ingredients to a boil and let simmer for a few minutes. Remove from heat and let steep for an hour. Strain out lavender flowers and use the liquid to make your cocktails. (Syrup recipe can be scaled up or down to suit your party size.)

3. Remove from heat, and whisk in butter until fully emulsified.

Signature cocktail, On Island Time, from the Mission Point dinner

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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FINDING THE

NORTHERN DREAM A RETIRED COUPLE DREAMED OF A FOUR-SEASON LAKE HOUSE UP NORTH WHICH WOULD YOU CHOOSE? BY KAITLYN MCLINTOCK

DAVID AND JANET MURRAY

avid and Janet Murray had lived all over the continental U.S., including Pittsburgh, San Francisco, Seattle and Boston, before choosing to settle in Birmingham, Michigan, 20 years ago. “Once we moved to Metro Detroit, it did not take long for us to fall in love with Northern Michigan,” David says. “To be able to enjoy all that Northern Michigan offers within a few hours’ drive is so fun! We are super-active, enjoying lake living, golfing, hiking, biking, skiing, snowshoeing, paddle boarding, kayaking, fly fishing and bird hunting ... it’s a veritable playground up here!” In 2018, David retired from the investment management business and Janet recently retired from the Birmingham Public School system. Once retired, the couple turned their attention to a long-time dream of theirs; to own a second home, and not just any second home, but a four-season Northern Michigan lake house. They knew exactly what they wanted—a home with three or more bedrooms and two or more baths on a private setting with a naturally wooded landscape. To find it, they enlisted the help of Wally Kidd of Kidd & Leavy Real Estate. “Wally was instrumental along the way, offering experienced insight, important considerations and dependable guidance,” Janet says. Their price range was $500,000–$1 million, and they weren’t picky on the exact location. “Initially, Wally helped us research and visit both existing homes and vacant lots between Burt Lake and the Traverse City area,” Janet says. As long as they were under a four-hour drive from their primary residence downstate and close to a Northern Michigan town center, such as Petoskey, Harbor Springs, Charlevoix, Boyne City or Traverse City, they would be happy. With these qualifications in mind, the Murrays, alongside Kidd, set out to find a Northern Michigan lake house that felt like home. “We probably researched over 50 different listings during a one-year span, and with the help of Wally Kidd, visited 15–20 finalists,” Janet says. After narrowing down their myriad options, they were left with three final listings to choose from. >>

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Finalist

No. 1

EVERGREEN LANE, BURT LAKE A well-maintained four-bedroom, threebathroom home on 187 feet of sandy Burt Lake frontage with easy access to Petoskey and Harbor Springs. The grounds boasted a beautiful garden area, and an open layout on the lower level that would work well for entertaining. Furniture, dock/ boat hoist, pontoon and jet skis were available for purchase outside of the listing, along with a pole barn and 3.87 added acreage. “It was a large and beautiful home, impeccably-maintained with modern amenities, great location on Burt Lake, natural lakefront landscaping and immediate access to protected nature trails behind the house,” David says. > ASKING PRICE: $1,175,000

Finalist

No. 2

LINWOOD LANE, WALLOON LAKE

Finalist

No. 3

CRESCENT SHORES DRIVE, TRAVERSE CITY Completely renovated in 2015, this 1931 log home, set on more than an acre of land, combined rustic charm with modern luxuries on Long Lake. A large deck off the back of the house overlooked the water, and there was an outdoor shower alcove, a classic boathouse with a ramp and a patio/ picnic area. The open concept kitchen/ living area opened to the dining room with windows overlooking the water. “It had a separate guest house on close to 250 feet of frontage on Long Lake with super-nice neighbors, only 18 minutes from downtown Traverse City,” David says. > ASKING PRICE: $1,185,000

An empty lot with 94 feet of sandy waterfront on the North Arm of Walloon Lake. The property, ready for an original home build, was located just a few minutes from the Walloon Lake Country Club and Petoskey. “The Linwood Lane lot on Walloon had one of the best views on the lake, looking straight down the lake from the North,” David says. “It was a wooded, narrow lot with an awesome neighbor on one side and with several other good friends on Walloon.” > ASKING PRICE: $565,000

Discover which home the Murrays bought, and vote for the property you would have chosen: MYNORTH.COM/THEMURRAYS

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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FINDING THE NORTHERN DREAM

A FAMILY OF FIVE LEFT THE WINDY CITY FOR TRAVERSE CITY WHICH WOULD YOU CHOOSE? BY CARLY SIMPSON

THE PARTMAN FAMILY

raci and Matt Partman were born and raised in Chicago, but now with three children, ages 2, 5 and 7, they were ready for a change. Their oldest, Bella, has a rare genetic disorder and they wanted a yard for her to play in and a quieter neighborhood. So, when Matt was offered a job as the sales and marketing director for Tamarack Lodge in Traverse City, they jumped on the opportunity. Matt has family in Leelanau County— his grandparents were one of the first to have a year-round home on Lake Leelanau—and he spent his summers as a child Up North, later bringing Traci and their kids. “The chance to come live and work here was kind of surreal,” Traci says. Before they left Chicago, when they were still deciding if the move was a good fit, Traci posted in a Facebook group, asking questions about area schools, special needs resources and Realtors. Traverse City Realtor Erika Nita responded. “If you know her, you know she’s so amazing at what she does, but she’s also a great person,” Traci says. “She lets you know right away she cares. She listens, hears what you need and doesn’t waste your time— it’s the real deal with her.” The Partmans were looking for a move-in ready home with four bedrooms and a large attached garage between $350,000–$400,000, and they were open to the east side or west side of town (their Chicago commute to work was an hour and a half, so a 30-minute lakeside drive would be a treat!). They also needed to factor in the distance to Bella’s school, so she wouldn’t have a long bus ride. The real challenge, though, was moving during a pandemic. The family decided to move into a rental house first, in May, so they wouldn’t have to do their home search with Erika from five hours away. “It was a really interesting time to be out looking for a home,” Traci says. “It was right when the restrictions were lifted and we were able to go from virtual showings to in-person showings; we were nervous. It was a crazy time to be walking into people’s houses.” With Erika’s help, Traci and Matt toured eight homes and narrowed it down to their top three. >>

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Finalist

No. 1

HOLIDAY HILLS, TRAVERSE CITY This four-bedroom, three-bath walkout ranch had 2,757 finished square feet, including an open living room with vaulted ceilings and a wood-burning fireplace; a roomy kitchen with stainless steel appliances and granite countertops; formal and informal dining areas and main-floor laundry. A three-car attached garage, wooded backyard and low-traffic road were also highlights. “This home was on the east side, closer to Bella’s school, and while it was definitely move-in ready, it needed a little work,” Traci says. > ASKING PRICE: $325,000

Finalist

No. 2

SILVER LAKE FARMS, TRAVERSE CITY

Finalist

No. 3

A well cared for two-story home with four bedrooms (including a master suite), mud room, main floor laundry, spacious island kitchen, cathedral ceilings with tongue and groove wood finishes and a finished lower level family room with a guest bedroom, bathroom and storage area. A backyard deck and covered front porch offered outdoor areas to enjoy rain or shine. The two-car attached garage had a finished interior and there were two garden sheds for additional storage. “This was a beautiful home on the west side,” Traci says. “We loved the layout and the backyard.” > ASKING PRICE: $349,000

SILVER LAKE FARMS, TRAVERSE CITY Located in the same neighborhood as Finalist No. 2, this four-bedroom, threebath home had 16-foot ceilings in the living room and a loft area. The family room/den on the front could be turned into a mainfloor master bedroom. A large deck and private yard offered plenty of room to play. “This was one of the first houses we saw,” Traci says. “It has a grand look when you’re walking up to it.” > ASKING PRICE: $341,000

Discover which home the Partman family bought, and vote for the property you would have chosen: MYNORTH.COM/THEPARTMANS

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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I NEVER FELT MAGIC CRAZY AS THIS –Nick Drake, "Northern Sky"

Tips for exploring Northern Michigan's night sky MOST OF THE U.P. viewing;

rful dark sky offers wonde lmost anywhere. a look up from f the United States, a ym po renti On a dark sk hard to diffe is la u s in n e perior. the Upper P higan and Su ic M s e k la m ate fro a Yoop, eh? Say yah to d ight author and n — Michigan Ellen Airgood st sky enthusia od.com ir ellena go

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Below: Aurora Borealis at Eagle Harbor. PHOTO BY MARYBETH KICZENSKI Opposite: 30-second exposure of the Milky Way and shooting star at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. PHOTO BY THOMAS BOS

WHERE TO FIND

DARK SKIES THERE ARE DARK SKY PRESERVES, PLACES PROTECTED FROM LIGHT POLLUTION, WITHIN SIX STATE PARKS IN MICHIGAN. LAKE HUDSON RECREATION AREA LENAWEE COUNTY NEGWEGON STATE PARK ALCONA COUNTY PORT CRESCENT STATE PARK HURON COUNTY ROCKPORT RECREATION AREA PRESQUE ISLE COUNTY THOMPSON’S HARBOR STATE PARK PRESQUE ISLE COUNTY WILDERNESS STATE PARK EMMET COUNTY

Visit michigan.gov/dnr for more information, and make reservations for camping under starry skies at midnrreservations.com.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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NOTABLE SKY-WATCHING EVENTS 2021

MAY 6, 7: ETA AQUARIIDS METEOR SHOWER THE SHOWER RUNS ANNUALLY FROM APRIL 19 TO MAY 28. IT PEAKS THIS YEAR THE NIGHT OF MAY 6/MORNING OF MAY 7. IT’S CAPABLE OF PRODUCING UP TO 60 METEORS PER HOUR AT ITS PEAK, THOUGH MOST OF THE ACTIVITY IS SEEN IN THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE. IN THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE, THE RATE CAN REACH ABOUT 30 METEORS PER HOUR.

JULY 12: VENUS-MARS CONJUNCTION VENUS AND MARS WILL BE VISIBLE THROUGH A BACKYARD TELESCOPE AT THE SAME TIME. ONCE YOUR EYES ADJUST, IT SHOULD BE EASY TO SEE BOTH PLANETS UNAIDED. “THE VENUS-MARS CLOSE APPROACH WILL HAVE THOSE TWO PLANETS ABOUT A HALF-DEGREE APART (ABOUT THE WIDTH OF THE FULL MOON),” SAYS ASTRONOMER JERRY DOBEK, HEAD OF BOTH THE SCIENCES AND ASTRONOMY DEPARTMENTS AT NORTHWESTERN MICHIGAN COLLEGE IN TRAVERSE CITY.

AUGUST 12, 13: PERSEID METEOR SHOWER PEAKS THESE METEORITES ARE RESIDUE OF THE COMET SWIFT-TUTTLE, AND AT PEAK CAN FALL AT A RATE OF UP TO 60 PER MINUTE. SINCE THEY’RE TRAVELING FAST, THEY APPEAR ESPECIALLY BRIGHT AND COLORFUL. “BOTH THE ETA AQUARIIAD AND THE PERSEID SHOWERS SHOULD BE NICE VIEWING THIS YEAR,” DOBEK SAYS. “THE ETA AQUARIIDS WILL HAVE A BIT OF MOON INTERFERENCE, BUT THE PERSEIDS FALL UNDER A WAXING CRESCENT.”

N O RT H E R N

e internationally Michigan has on eadsky preserve, H designated dark ar P k, in ional Dark Sky lands Internat 550Headlands is a Emmet County. miles rk located two pa ty un co re ac . The n Mackinaw City pen west of downtow O ds un reads “Gro website banner . er ev t hours 24/7/365”—bes org midarkskypark.

Above: November stars over Hurricane River. This beach is never the same, and every visit is special for this reason. This image was shot using an astromodified camera, which is highly sensitive to light. PHOTO BY MARYBETH KICZENSKI

Right: Comet NEOWISE shoots across the night sky over Elk Rapids in July 2020. PHOTO BY ALLISON JARRELL

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V IR T U A L VIEWING

MichiNorthwestern Students from ronomy Club and Ast gan College’s mical verse Astrono the Grand Tra ing virtual public st Society are ho first Friday of each e th ts r viewing nigh e pandemic. Fo th to ue n month d he updates on w more info, and ts will resume: in-person even rg. gtastro.o

Above: Aurora Borealis at sunrise, along the iconic M-22 at the Glen Lake Narrows bridge. Below: Mission Point star trail. PHOTO BY TYLER LEIPPRANDT OF MICHIGAN SKY MEDIA

PHOTO BY THOMAS BOS

THE

SUPERIOR PLANETS JUPITER, SATURN, URANUS AND NEPTUNE— THE SUPERIOR PLANETS—ARE AMONG THE MOST DISTANT COSMIC OBJECTS VISIBLE FROM EARTH. THEY’RE CLEAREST WHEN THEY’RE IN OPPOSITION TO THE SUN (IN OTHER WORDS, WHEN THEY’RE HIDING FROM THE SUN BEHIND EARTH). LOOK FOR THEM ON:

AUGUST 2: SATURN A MEDIUM-SIZED OR LARGER TELESCOPE WILL ALLOW YOU TO SEE SATURN’S RINGS AND A FEW OF ITS BRIGHTEST MOONS.

AUGUST 19: JUPITER A MEDIUM-SIZED TELESCOPE SHOULD SHOW YOU SOME OF THE DETAILS IN JUPITER’S CLOUD BANDS, AND GOOD BINOCULARS WILL ALLOW YOU TO SEE JUPITER’S FOUR LARGEST MOONS.

SEPTEMBER 14: NEPTUNE USE A MEDIUM-SIZED TELESCOPE FOR A VIEW THAT ’S “ANYTHING BETTER THAN STAR-LIKE ,” DOBEK SAYS.

NOVEMBER 5: URANUS AGAIN, A MEDIUM-SIZED TELESCOPE WOULD BE HELPFUL ; IT WILL APPEAR AS A TINY BLUE- GREEN DOT IN ALL BUT THE MOST POWERFUL TELESCOPES.

—Ellen Airgood

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g n i t a r b e l e C metown o H ride! P

RED HOT RESULTS After 128,000 votes, the winners are IN! Pre-order your copy of the Red Hot Best Issue to be the FIRST to see the results. MYNORTH.COM/JUNE21 Final Results will be posted on MyNorth.com in June! Who Will be Red Hot?

Traverse MyNorth is the home of Traverse Magazine

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T he Cu l i nary North

Cooking is personal for Christian Geoghegan. Taste the love in Hexenbelle's flatbread and hummus.

local cuisine . drinks . restaurant guide

D I N I N G OUT

COMFORT FOOD FOR ALL by CARLY SI M PSON

A new café in Traverse City is making sure everyone feels welcome.

photo by Dave Weidner

hef christian geoghegan’s first food memories are of a round table heaped with hummus, tabbouleh and stuffed grape leaves, surrounded by aunts, uncles and cousins all sharing a meal prepared by Christian's grandmother. “Arab hospitality is built on making someone feel showered with love, and food is the way to do that,” says Christian, who uses they/them pronouns. That love is what Christian and business partner/ fiancée/espresso extraordinaire Heather Webber try to convey with every dish, baked good and cup of coffee served at Hexenbelle in Traverse City’s Warehouse MRKT. The café opened in November 2020, offering breakfast and lunch along with weekly dinner specials. A rotating, all-vegetarian menu features global comfort foods, many inspired by Christian’s Palestinian heritage: coconut curry fried rice; maftoul (Palestinian couscous); lattes with turmeric and ginger; a peanut butter tahini cookie that's unexpected and brilliant; and hummus, of course. "I use hummus as an example for everything," Christian says. "Hummus to me is my ride or die; it’d be my last meal. It's comforting, and when I eat it I get this feeling in my chest from when I was a kid. That’s what we’re going for—that emotion. And if hummus is my ride or die, then there must be a hummus for everybody, every culture. That hummus to someone else might be fried rice, it might be green bean casserole, it might be lox and bagels.” And it’s not just the menu that’s comforting—everything at Hexenbelle is meant to be soothing, from the soft pink walls (inspired by a woman’s womb) to the books lined up on the window shelf waiting to be read when the café opens for in-person dining (at the time of publication Hexenbelle was

offering to go and patio seating only). “We’re majority womenowned, queer, non-binary, I’m brown—all these things—and we want it to be a place you come to and feel instantly welcomed and safe, especially for people who don’t have those spaces,” Christian says. “We want to make people happy, and the way I know how to do that is through food, and the way Heather knows how to do that is through coffee.” But Christian’s path to becoming a chef didn’t start with culinary school. They were hired and training to be a financial advisor at Edward Jones in Traverse City and soon realized it wasn’t the right fit. Having held jobs as a dishwasher, host, server and bar back, Christian decided to join the team at Harvest after leaving the financial services world, and that’s where they met Chef James Bloomfield. James was doing a pop-up dinner with Pete Peterson of Tapawingo and asked if Christian wanted to help with front of house. “I remember that night it hit me in the chest; this is what I want to do,” Christian says. “I started coming in on my days off to learn how to prep properly, how to break down a chicken, how to cut a bunch of root vegetables, the most basic things. I was learning about ingredients I’d never heard of. I was obsessed.” James later opened Alliance in 2016, and Christian was hired to work in the kitchen. Christian also spent more than a year at Trattoria Stella and was a part of The Cooks' House Young Chefs Dinner in 2018. When Alliance closed in September 2020, Hexenbelle took over the same space a few months later. “I know how much a good cup of coffee or a bite of food can change your whole day; I mean it changed my life,” Christian says. “I didn’t know anything about coffee until I went to BLK/MRKT down the hall, which is where I met Heather, who I’m now engaged to. We have all these memories surrounding food. I hope our guests will share their memories with us and help inspire our menu.” 144 Hall St., Ste. 107, Traverse City; hexenbelle.square.site NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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T he Cu l i nary North Trends

Boyne Valley Vineyards 05325 S. US-131, Petoskey

by CARLY SIMPSON

In Northern Michigan, spring brings three things: morels, cherry blossoms and new wine releases. And we are thankful.

Black Star Farms

10844 E. Revold Rd., Suttons Bay 360 E. McKinley Rd., Traverse City

Black Star Farms has three white wines and a rosé release this spring, with new reds coming in the fall. 2020 was a good growing

JUST A BITE Spanglish Tacos nestled within the village at grand traverse commons is a quaint yel-

low building dating back to 1892 that’s home to a not-to-miss Mexican restaurant serving up made-from-scratch authentic eats. This is where you'll find the perfect savory street taco—think melt-in-your-mouth pork, fresh cabbage, onion, cilantro, salsa verde and a sprinkle of feta cheese wrapped in warm corn tortillas. Owned and operated by husbandand-wife team Vicente and Anna Serrano, Spanglish is a delicious marriage of traditional Mexican recipes and fresh Northern Michigan ingredients. Anna and Vicente pride themselves on serving generous portions at affordable prices, and their tacos are a prime example of that mission. Order à la carte, or try the three taco deal (warning: you will absolutely have leftovers!). You can add on guac, avocado, hot sauce or sour cream, but I recommend trying the unaltered version first. Stop by on Cinco de Mayo for homemade tamales, burritos and, of course, tacos. 1333 Yellow Dr., Traverse City, spanglishtc.com –A.J.

season for chardonnay, says Managing Owner Sherri Campbell Fenton, and the 2020 Arcturos Sur Lie Chard “showcases it beautifully” with apple and pear on the palate and fresh cream in the aromatics (pair with local fish). For an easy pairing with any spring meal, try the 2019 Arcturos Sauvignon Blanc, a New Zealand-style sauvignon with plenty of grapefruit, white flower and tarragon. The final white, 2020 Arcturos Semi-Dry Riesling, “breathes fresh white flower on the nose and dances with white peach and tangerine on the palate, finishing clean and perfectly balanced,” Sherri says. And finally, the 2020 Arcturos Pinot Noir Rosé (always good for a spring release!), “shows abundant strawberry and cherry on the nose, with the berry fruit continuing through on the palate.” blackstarfarms.com

Chateau Chantal

15900 Rue de Vin, Traverse City

Chateau Chantal has two releases, a red and a white, to be particularly excited about. The 2020 Pinot Blanc is a crisp and refreshing dry white wine that benefited greatly from the warmth of the 2020 growing season, explains Director of Marketing Kyle Brownley. And the 2018 Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Franc “is consistently one of our most soughtafter red wines,” Kyle says. With dark berry notes and soft tannins, it’s a must for any red wine drinker. On the horizon: “We are also working on a piquette wine that is scheduled to be released in 2021.This low-alcohol, fruitforward wine offers more versatility, and can be enjoyed pretty much anywhere!” chateauchantal.com

photo by Boyne Valley Vineyards

SPRING POURS

oming in June, Boyne Valley’s 2020 Estate Marquette is dry, lightly oaked and mediumbodied with notes of cherries, black currants, blackberries and pepper. Marquette grapes are a rich, robust red and were developed at the University of Minnesota's Horticultural Research Center. The university is creating hybrid grapes that can be grown farther north where winters are harsh, such as the Petoskey Wine Region. Winemakers are experimenting with the grape in Northern Michigan, Vermont, Maine and Alaska. (For the full story, visit MyNorth.com/MarquetteGrape.) More fun news: As soon as weather permits, the winery is opening a tree house tasting area (Yes, a tree house!) and a summer concert series runs from Memorial Day weekend through the end of October on Fridays from 4–7:30 p.m. and Saturdays from 2–6 p.m. boynevalleyvineyards.com

T R AV E R S E / M AY 2 0 2 1

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The Culinary North

GUIDE R E S T A U R A N T

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR •

Pelican's Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads and homemade desserts. D • BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR

Provisions Wine Lounge Sommelier-curated wines by the glass and bottle, classic cocktails, Michigan craft beer and small plates. LD • BAR • $$ 123 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.2151 Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY,

$-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and an evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321 Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR • $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL ST.,

PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800

Roast & Toast Hip coffeehouse with daily house-made soups, bread, bakery items and salads. On-site coffee roasting. A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. BLD • $ 309 E. LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767

PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS

ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/INDIAN RIVER Dutch Oven Café and Deli French toast and farmers omelette stratas, sandwiches on famous homemade bread. BL • $ 7611 U.S. 31, ALANSON, 231.548.2231

Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on the Bay Harbor marina. B • $ 4165 MAIN STREET, BAY HARBOR, 231.439.9989

Original Pancake House Crepes, waffles, pancakes, omelettes, egg specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$ 840 FRONT ST., BAY

HARBOR, 231.439.2770

The Queens Head Wine pub serving wine, spirits and draft beer along with delectable pub fare. LD • BAR • $ 250 N. HURON ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.445.7101

Vintage Chophouse/ Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$

INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlifedecorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas. LD • BAR • $-$$ 4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.9471

Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick oven pizzeria. BL • $ 324 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.489.8278 Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. LD • BAR • $ 1200 N. U.S. 31, PETOSKEY,

231. 347.9291

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with a big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771 Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with a wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201 Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. D • BAR • $$ 1549 GLENDALE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.2410

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY,

CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES

Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American cuisine with global wine and craft cocktail bar. D • BAR • $$ 129 EAST

Chandler’s Brick-walled and -floored dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to savor this art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SY-

MONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. LD • $

309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250

Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contemporary American food with a focus on local ingredients. D • BAR • $$ 213 N BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301

Torch Riviera Pasta, seafood, steaks, ribs, pizza. D • BAR • $$ 12899 CHERRY AVE., RAPID CITY, 231.322.4100

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE,

231.535.2999

CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/ EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. D L • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE The Cantina Tacos and tequila with indoor and outdoor seating. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 VAN PELT Charlevoix Pizza Company Scratch-made dough, fresh ingredients, golden crust, prepared daily. Plus, cheesy bread and wings. LD • $-$$ 311 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6300 East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD •

BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3000

$ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3612

BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.412.6032

SKEY, 231.347.5583

RD. (M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD • BAR •

Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and handrolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY,

SKEY, 231.487.9900

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. LD • BAR $-$$$

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients. Seminole Pub. BLD • BAR • $–$$ 600 HIGHLANDS DR.,

Stiggs Brewery Hand-crafted brews, from-scratch food like whitefish cakes, bourbon chicken sandwich, top sirloin wagyu steak. LD • BAR $-$$ 112 S. PARK ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6100 Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cuisine at Shanty Creek Resort with a view of Lake Bellaire. Breakfast, lunch & dinner. The River Bistro—Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, Lunch, (spring-fall) Ivan’s Mountainside Grill—Schuss Village-Pub food. BLD • BAR 1 SHANTY CREEK

ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

231.347.1440

The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes, home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. BL • $ 423 MICHIGAN ST., PETO-

231.582.0049

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL ST., PETO-

CROSS VILLAGE/HARBOR SPRINGS/ PELLSTON/PETOSKEY

231.753.2221

CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/WALLOON Boyne City Taproom Craft beer, wood-fired pizzas, wraps, burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 220 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.459.4487 Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge— Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern—American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 Corner Bistro French-inspired small plates, classic cocktails, wine, beer, Sunday brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 102 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7344

Friske Orchards Cafe Cheerful roadside restaurant features farm-fresh breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and a bakery. BL • $ 10743 U.S. 31 S., ATWOOD, 231.599.2604 Lake Street Pub American pub with outdoor patio and firepit, BYO mac ‘n’ cheese, cocktails, 26 beers on tap. LD • $ 202 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6031

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling technique in this specialty food and wine shop. D • $-$$$ 12853 U.S. 31 N., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300

That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Grey Gables Inn Graceful, intimate, Victorian atmosphere across from the harbor. D • BAR • $–$$$ 308 BELVEDERE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.9261

Lake Charlevoix Brewing Co. Craft brewery with good eats—grilled cheese sammies, tacos, quesadillas and beef jerky. LD • BAR • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE PARK DR., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3220

Pigs Eatin’ Ribs Real smokehouse with mouthwatering BBQ. Weekend breakfast. BLD • $-$$ 1418 BRIDGE ST.,

CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7447

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E. JORDAN

RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food. LD

• $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with a massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel. LD • BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

N NO OR RT TH HE ER RN N M M II C CH H II G GA AN N '' SS M MA AG GA A ZZ II N NE E

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The Culinary North Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D • BAR

• $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

Torch Lake Cafe Inventive, ultra-fresh cuisine with sharable options like the seafood platter with black garlic butter. Or devour an elevated fried bologna sandwich with pickled green tomato and house Dijon all on your own. BLD • BAR •

$-$$$ 4990 US31 N, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.599.1111

Villager Pub ’50s atmosphere, whitefish, Mexican, ribs, sandwiches and pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHAR-

LEVOIX, 231.547.6925

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING/MANCELONA Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. LD • $ 147 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901

Flour Pot Bakery Come grab some doughnuts, Danish or another favorite to start your day! BL • $ 108 RIVER ST., 231.

264.9732

Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in a wine bar on the Elk River. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9000

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better. BL

• $$ 145 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190

Boone Dock’s Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444 Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff. LD •

LOCHEN, 231.275.3005

Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers, hand-cut fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling in the winter. LD • BAR • $ 172

LOCHEN, 231.276.6979

BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688

W BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869

Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches, pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU,

231.256.9912

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season.

LD • BAR • $ 7144 N. M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923

Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. LD • BAR 227 E MICHIGAN

AVE., GRAYLING, 989.745.6388

Spike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since 1933. LD • BAR $ 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113 Tap Room 32 Twenty handles of Michigan craft beers and a menu of modern brew-friendly vittles like truffle fries and Korean beef tacos. D • $$ 141 NORTH COURT AVE., GAYLORD,

989.748.8552

The Old Depot 1900s train depot features homestyle burgers, steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. BLD •

$$ 10826 M-32 E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115

Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. BLD • BAR • $$-$$$ 216 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5524

Treetops Sylvan Resort Hunters Grille, & Sports Bar. Steak, burgers, ribs, pasta, signature pizza, chicken, fish and glutenfree selections. Featuring a selection of 100 Michigan craft beer, wines, fabulous martinis. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ WILKINSON

RD., GAYLORD, 800.444.6711

Shirley’s Café An ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. BLD • $ 528 S. WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210

231.944.1297

The Homestead Nonna’s Restaurant—Classically inspired, contemporary Italian cuisine. D • BAR $$-$$$ Beppi’s Sports Bar—Hand-tossed pizzas, paninis and salads. D • BAR • $-$$ 1 Hop Lot Brewing Co. Family-friendly microbrewery with four-season patio and games serving ribs, tacos, wings and a s’more kit to top it all off. LD • BAR • $-$$ 658 S WEST BAY SHORE Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$ 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019 BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and lunch. BL • $-$$ 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927. Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the off-season. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted onsite. LD • BAR • $$ 13512 Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, locally sourced fare and craft cocktails. D THURSDAY, Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials. LD • BAR • $$ 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.7280

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY Friendly French bistro with a bay view, Amical fireplace and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888

NEW Benedict A family-friendly restaurant offering break-

fast and lunch sandwiches, pastries, salads, soups and more. BL • $ 237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1000

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with fromscratch farmer food. and Michigan-crafted beers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515

NEW Brasserie Amie A Parisian-style brasserie bistro in

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE,

downtown TC serving up brunch and dinner. LD • BAR • $$

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR •

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads and tacos. BLD • BAR • $

231.334.3944

160 E. FRONT ST., 231.753.3161

$ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

428 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch, including some gluten free dishes and pastries. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413 N.

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-

ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR • $$ 420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast—all done well. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6692

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST.,

SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, breakfast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers share the menu. BLD • $ 110 E. NAGONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055

$$$ 115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. BLD • $ 129 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. LD • BAR •

$ 108 S. UNION, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

The Good Bowl Fresh, authentic Vietnamese eatery. Donates $1 for every bowl to the charity of your choice. LD • BAR

$-$$ 328 E FRONT ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662

The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads. BL •

$ 115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687

Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. LD • BAR • $$ 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231.

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche.

Wren Contemporary comfort food and a constantly changing menu to feature locally sourced ingredients. D • BAR • $$

Little G's Fusion Cuisine Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 531

334.3362

LEELANAU COUNTY

OLD MISSION PENINSULA

FRIDAY & SATURDAY 5PM–9PM • BAR • $-$$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4222

DR., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4445

27, GAYLORD, 989.732.9288

231.263.8120

Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10844 E REVOLD RD., SUTTONS BAY,

LANE, MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

The Town Club of Elk Rapids After a renovation in 2019, this famous landmark has been rebuilt and is already being appreciated for its daily lunch specials and famous Prime Rib Thursdays. LD • BAR • $$ 133 RIVER STREET, ELK RAPIDS, Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting. Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3917 SOUTH OLD

Judson Market and Restaurant Newly re-branded market and restaurant offering house-made and local items. Glutenfree, vegetarian, full bar. BLD • BAR • $$ 211 E. MAIN ST., KINGSLEY,

OLD PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively zydeco, jazz and blues. LD •

231.264.9914

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2784 M-137, INTER-

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MCFAR-

WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000

BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530

Dilbert’s Soups, sandwiches, omelets and other home cooking served in a homey atmosphere. BLD • $ 11303 U.S. 31, INTER-

303 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.1175

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA

INTERLOCHEN/KINGSLEY Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout and so much more. LD BAR • $-$$ 10586 US31, INTERLOCHEN,

BL • $ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2713

Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR • $$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.943.2793

231.275.6401

T R AV E R S E / M AY 2 0 2 1

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T he Cu l i nary North On the Table DINING IN

RUN FOR THE RADISHES by STACEY BRUGEMAN

Serve these open-faced sandwiches for Derby Day.

Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

Radish Tea Tartines with Smoked Butter Makes 10 whole tartines or 40 small toasts

photo by Dave Weidner / styling by Sarah Peschel

s there any more gratifying vegetable in a home garden than the humble radish? While some things take an entire growing season to ripen or—worse—get cut short by Northern Michigan’s tight season before they even flourish, radishes go from seed to edible treat in just 30 days, long before many of their garden neighbors. Beneath those vibrant green leaves (not yet prickly, please!), tucked under all that wet, spring earth, is a crisp, Technicolor treat. Whether you grow radishes yourself or nab a bunch at a farmers market, try an open-faced sandwich to showcase the classic pairing of radishes and butter. Open-faced sandwiches are nothing new. Welsh rarebit, Danish smørrebrød and Medieval trenchers all came long before the recent renaissance of the French tartine, but there’s a reason they appeal even to those of us who aren’t counting our carbs. Whether it's a bunch of magenta watermelon radishes, purple daikon, black Spanish radishes or a multi-colored mix of Easter egg radishes you’ve scored, slicing them paper-thin and setting them on a generous spread of the applewood-smoked butter from Kingsley’s Boss Mouse Cheese (bossmousecheese.com) is stunning without a whole lot of effort. Tartines are typically served whole, but quartering them like tea sandwiches makes this recipe especially fitting for Derby Day. As for a bourbon-themed bowtie or feathery fascinator … that’s on you.

1 block of smoked butter from Boss Mouse Cheese, about 1/3 pound 10 slices of good sourdough bread 8 ounces of washed and trimmed mixed radishes Maldon flake salt to taste Thinned radish greens or another microgreen, for garnish

3. While bread cools, use a mandolin or knife to thinly slice the radishes to the thickness of a wedding invitation.

1. Cut butter into 10 equal size pieces and then bring to room temperature.

4. Place cooled bread on a cutting board. Spread equal pieces of butter evenly across each slice of bread. Arrange radish slices onto each piece of toast, and gently press them into the butter so they stay in place. Using a sharp knife, cut bread into quarters, making a dome over the knife with your fingers to hold the artful radish slices in place while you work.

2. Preheat oven to broil. Arrange bread slices on a baking sheet and place under the broiler until just starting to turn golden, about 2 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

5. Arrange quartered bread onto a serving platter or tiered tea sandwich stand and sprinkle with flake salt to taste. Garnish with several pinches of microgreens, and serve. –S.B.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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The Culinary North Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. LD •

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991 Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted wood-fired flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. LD

BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325

• BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelets, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. BLD • $ 124 CASS,

Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now at a new location. BAR • $ 225 E. 16 ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, wellaged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.947.9832

231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590

Pangea’s Pizza Pub Craft pies, creative toppings. LD • BAR

$-$$ 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY,

231.941.7632

Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer. LD • BAR • $$ 229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053 Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh, sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT

ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips Ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700 Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (including European Trappist ales) with your burger and lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128 S.

231.944.1239

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST Rough-hewn eatery affords a great Apache Trout Grill bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. LD • BAR • $$

13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Harrington’s By The Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • $$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960 Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., ST. 30, TRA-

VERSE CITY, 231.252.4648

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an alpenhaus-style dining room. LD • BAR • $$ 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563 Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks. LD • BAR • $ 1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575

Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club–style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. LD • BAR • $$ 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC,

231.775.5332

Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting. LD •

BAR • $ 523 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399 Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1100 28TH ST., MANISTEE, 231.723.8000

The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. D • $-$$ 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843

Dinghy’s Local favorite for 25 years with house-smoked meats including famous ribs, half-pound burger, Big BLT, award-winning Friday fish fry. LD • BAR • $$ 415 MAIN ST.,

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$

FRANKFORT, 231.352.4702

UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4807

717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT ST.,

The Silver Swan Ethnic fare and killer desserts. LD • $ 13692

The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and wood-fired pizzas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients. LD• BAR

S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203

• $-$$ 318 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4121

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. LD •

Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. BLD • $ 1333 YELLOW DR.,

BAR • $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT,

Sugar 2 Salt Traverse City's hot brunch spot serves up what is in season. B • $-$$ 1371 GRAY DR., SUITE 300, TRAVERSE CITY,

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

231.409.8382

231.929.8989

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD

231.943.2500

The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.090

Thirsty Fish Sports Grille Family-friendly sports bar with seafood, burgers, steaks, pasta and a 600-gallon fish tank. Live music on the patio. LD • BAR • $-$$ 221 E. STATE ST., TRA-

VERSE CITY, 231.421.1165

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST

• BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922

BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC

BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/THOMPSONVILLE Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Wood-paneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites. BLD • BAR • $-$$ M-115, THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000

Don’s Drive In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. LD • $ 2030 U.S. 31 N.,

Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken, pizza, soups, salads. LD • BAR • $ 14848 THOMPSON AVE.,

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S.

Lucky Dog Bar and Grille Burgers, smoked wings, brats, sandwiches, craft beer, cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S. BENZIE

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.1860

31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000

Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-can-eat cod. BLD • $ 1103 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

Reflect Bistro and Lounge at Cambria Suites Hotel Breakfast, dinner and Happy Hour 4-7 p.m. daily. BD • BAR • $-$$$

255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000

Smoke and Porter Public House An American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020 Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,

THOMPSONVILLE, 231.378.2554

BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499

Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere. Steaks, Italian, Mexican. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 10921 MAIN ST., HONOR, 231.227.1200

The Roadhouse Fresh Mex with a cool cantina atmosphere. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US 31), BENZONIA,

231.352.4114

The Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn. BLD • $-$$$ 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090 L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $-$$ 325 MAIN STREET, FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. LD • BAR $-$$ 515 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9136

North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the drawbridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with meats smoked daily and excellent craft beers on tap. LD • BAR $-$$

86 WASHINGTON ST, MANISTEE, 231.299.1020

Rock's Landing Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with ethnic influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. D • BAR $$ 1157 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST.,

FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Tavo and Tarrah Hernandez turned their food truck into a restaurant dream-come-true with ultra-fresh tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas. LD • BAR • $-$$ 344 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4441

Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib pasta , whitefish, craft beer, regional wines. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751

T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for panini, mex and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. LD • BAR • $ 99 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174

231.882.9631

Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers sandwiches. BLD • $-$$ 245 S BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250

CADILLAC Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. BL • $ 304 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5461

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS! Go to MyNorth.com/Restaurants

231.534.8888

T R AV E R S E / M AY 2 0 2 1

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4/6/21 8:30 PM

T he Cu l i nary North Last Call DRINK PINK by STACEY BRUGEMAN

The centuries-old gimlet gets a spring makeover.

O U R

C E L L A R

Not flexing your mixology muscles tonight? Here’s what area beverage professionals are drinking right now. As springtime temps warm, many will turn to quaffable beer styles such as blondes and pilsners. Kyle Hunt, owner of Cøllect, a rooftop beer bar in Detroit’s Eastern Market, recommends the Farm Club Pilsner—brewed in Leelanau County with Hallertau Mittelfrüh and Saphir hops. “Good pilsners are hard to come by and this one is great—very clean and crisp,” Hunt says. farmclubtc.com; $13 per 6 cans For those many still-cool days, Alex Truck, sommelier at Aerie, the Acme restaurant known for its award-winning wine list, suggests the 2017 Mari Vineyards Row 7. While a planting gaffe makes the varietals in this Old Mission row unknown, the elegance of this bold Bordeaux-like blend is no mystery. At home, Truck recently paired it with Anthony Bourdain’s meatloaf. marivineyards.com, $85 per bottle –S.B.

Rhubarb Gimlet

Serves 1 2 ounces gin ¾ ounces Rhubarb Cordial (recipe below) Add ice to a cocktail glass to chill it. Fill a shaker with ice and add gin and Rhubarb Cordial and shake vigorously until the mixture is combined. Discard the ice in the glass, strain contents of the shaker into the glass and garnish with a rhubarb ribbon or a lime wheel.

Rhubarb Cordial

Makes 4 ounces 1 cup chopped rhubarb, about 1 stalk ½ cup water ½ cup sugar juice and peel of 1 lime Combine rhubarb and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce to simmer, cover and cook until rhubarb has melted into strands, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly without taking off the lid. Set a fine mesh strainer over a second saucepan and pour warm rhubarb mixture into the strainer, separating the liquid from the solid and pressing down on the rhubarb with a wooden spoon to release some juice. Discard the pulp. Add sugar, lime juice and a few pieces of peel to the pan of rhubarb liquid and stir over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Reduce to simmer and cook until the syrup begins to thicken, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, discard the lime peel and allow to cool completely— storing in a non-reactive container in the fridge. –S.B.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

0521_TVM_culinary north.indd 45

photo by Dave Weidner / styling by Sarah Peschel

proper gin gimlet apparently dates back to the 19th-century British Royal Navy. The lime cordial in it was thought to prevent sailors from getting scurvy. How fitting then that it was also the go-to cocktail of my late maternal grandmother—who spent her retirement years sailing the globe as a passenger on cargo freighters. She was born in May, so to celebrate her birthday I often pour this springtime take on her favorite drink. In it, I replace Rose’s lime juice (which in modern times is loaded with high fructose corn syrup and colorants) with a homemade rhubarb cordial. Rhubarb stalks are every bit as tart as limes, but bring us this welcome burst of spring pink. The end result is so colorful that numerous friends have asked me for the recipe over the years. I think “Bardy”—a graduate of both the University of Michigan and Michigan State—would be delighted that it's making its Traverse debut.

4/6/21 8:30 PM

SPEND SOME TIME UP NORTH... WITHOUT USING VACATION DAYS. Subscribe yourself or someone you love for a full year of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine for $24.95 and receive 6 issues of Northern Home & Cottage, the Vacation Guide and 10 other special sections. MyNorth.com/Subscribe

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4/8/21 10:49 AM

Outdoors

SCENIC CYCLING by KANDACE CHAPPLE

Hanson Hills lives up to its rep—it’s tough, but worth it.

he idea of mountain biking the infamous Hanson Hills in Grayling made me feel … well, let me just say it … wimpy. I have several friends in the area who cussed the hills (often) and warned me that the trail was a beast to tackle. There were tales of getting lost, rides taking days and oxygen-deprived prayers sent up on every hill. But I also heard stories of endless views and a sprawling, secluded landscape. I decided to take a couple of friends to suffer with me and made the distinct mistake of bringing two friends faster than I am. I would be sucking wind the entire ride. But, one of them lived in Grayling and would serve as our tour guide. I knew at least we wouldn't end up lost.

photo by Kandace Chapple

THE TRAILS

There are three loops to pick from, along with a mishmash of cut-across trails. You might snap a quick picture with your phone of the trail map at the trailhead for reference, although each intersection we went through was well-marked with clear signage. At the trailhead, you’ll find a building (used for their skiing and tubing operations in the winter) with flush bathrooms, plus a beautiful pavilion for community events and a “Feed the Red Tube” asking for donations of $2 per rider. Our tour guide decided we would tackle the Yellow Loop (10 miles), also called the Main Loop. This took us an hour and 15 minutes and included a few spots where I said I needed “pictures,” but really needed a chance to regain my lung capacity. The Yellow Loop starts off flat and serene. A bait and switch, I would say, ahem. Because before long, we were into switchbacks and climbing for several minutes. There were no brutal killer vertical climbs, but the switchbacks were steady. There was only one uphill, righthand, sandy corner that caused two of the three of us to dismount with an oomph. Otherwise, the trail waited patiently for us to eke out every climb, and we were treated to fun little wooden bridges toward the end of the loop. I soon had to agree with Hanson Hill’s reputation—it’s tough. We got our workout in and then some. But its other

reputation held, too: gorgeous, secluded and untouched. The landscape offered one view after another, with every imaginable Northern Michigan tree on display. The high point of the trip, literally, was an M-93 overlook along the trail. The view was endless—and I really did take pictures that time. Back at our cars, we decided to do the Green Loop, a three-miler dubbed “Easy Rider,” to see what they had for the kids. Even our trail guide hadn’t done this one before. So off we went, thinking we’d knock this out as a cooldown. Let me just stop right here and say that this trail is not a kids’ trail. This is a flatter trail, but it has its challenges. And ... The Killer Root. (I named it, and if you ride it, you will know exactly what I’m talking about.) The Killer is a gnarly tree root as high as your knee on a blind corner. A root that, if you are racing along with your friends trying to be cool on the kiddie loop, will stop you like a brick wall. The first of us hit it, and then the other two almost rear-ended him. This decidedly broke the “kiddie” spell on the Green Loop. We saw that we were, in fact, still riding for real ... and we slowed to a much more cautious pace. However, the Green Loop has its charm and would be a fine ride if you weren't all hardcore, going too fast for your britches, like we were. The best part is a serene, winding stretch through dark, bushy evergreens. It’s like a magical little wonderland with mossy fallen limbs and almost an age-old wisdom in the air. If you hit The Killer, you will also associate this stretch with a sense of well-being, glad to be alive. IF YOU GO

Visit hansonhills.org/mountain-bike-trails for a trail map. Park at the Grayling Recreation Authority at 7601 Old Lake Rd., Grayling. Look for the cute pond and split-rail fence, and park on the back side of it. Be sure to drop your $2 in the Red Tube and take plenty of water! Kandace Chapple is the editor and publisher of Grand Traverse Woman Magazine. Her essays have been published in Writer’s Digest, “Chicken Soup for the Soul,” Literary Mama, Motherwell and more. She loves to mountain bike on Northern Michigan trails, hike with her dog, Cookie, and spend time with her husband and two sons. kandacechapple.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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4/6/21 8:31 PM

Love of the Land

photo by Chris Cantway

Big Trout Lake

SIGNS OF SPRING by ALLISON JARRELL

From birding to wildflowers, this nature preserve was made for May adventures.

estled along the u.p.’s dudley bay just east of Cedarville, the 1,600-plus-acre Carl A. Gerstacker Nature Preserve boasts five miles of Lake Huron frontage across four bays—including one of the most stunning limestone bedrock shorelines in the state—as well as two small islands, Big and Little Trout Lakes and parts of two creeks. This preserve—established in 1993 and protected by The Nature Conservancy—also covers a large expanse of contiguous forest to support migratory birds and safeguards rare plant and animal species. 48

Big Trout Lake

The month of May is one of the best times to visit, as migratory songbirds are resting en route to other destinations or settling on breeding territories for the summer (four species of warblers breed here, including the American redstart and magnolia warbler). Birders have a good chance of spotting loons, pileated woodpeckers, rubythroated hummingbirds, bald eagles and osprey. Spring also brings wildflowers—enjoy primrose, Calypso orchid, yellow lady’s slipper, butterwort, pitcher’s thistle and dwarf lake iris. For more info, including a guided audio tour, visit nature.org.

T R AV E R S E / M AY 2 0 2 1

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4/6/21 8:33 PM

The big picture is even bigger than you know.

If you think wealth management is only a portfolio of assets that are balanced, diversified, and properly weighted, you’re thinking too narrowly. Because without a broader wealth management strategy that integrates performance with tax planning, trusts, risk management, cash flow, retirement, estate planning, charitable giving, family assistance and so on, ROI only goes so far. Clients of Greenleaf Trust (with over $15 billion in assets under advisement) are nearly always pleasantly surprised that their big picture is even bigger, and better, than they knew. Give us a call and we’ll help you see yours. Client relationships begin at $2 million.

Traverse City 231.778.0050 | Bay Harbor 231.439.5016 | greenleaftrust.com

0521 TVM COVER final.indd 3

4/6/21 7:49 PM

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Thinking of buying or selling? Experience matters, call Wally.

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4/6/21 7:49 PM

Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine, May 2021

Articles inside

THE CULINARY NORTH

ON THE TABLE

OUTDOORS

UP NORTH

LAST CALL

MAY EVENTS

EDITOR'S NOTE

LOVE OF THE LAND