July 2019 Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine

SIMPLE SLUSHY CHERRY COCKTAIL P. 87 • 37 SUMMER FESTIVALS P. 23 MICHIGAN'S NEWEST WINE REGION P. 108 • MACKINAC ISLAND CRUISES P. 15

INSIDE: MYNORTH REAL ESTATE FOLLOWING PAGE 88

BLUE WATER! CHERRIES! CAMPING! MAKE THIS THE SUMMER OF YOUR DREAMS

WIN A ION VACAT H 3-NIG T E INN AT AT TH BOR BAY HAR

PACK THE CAR + GRAB THE DOG! THE ULTIMATE CAMPING ROAD TRIP

19 .COM/INN MYNORTH

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THE BEST ROCK HUNTING BEACHES

WALLOON LAKE ♦ BAY HARBOR ♦ LAKE CHARLEVOIX ♦ BURT LAKE ♦ HARBOR SPRINGS

Building traditions for generations to come.

Proud Stewards of the Environment, Quality Craftsmanship, and your Pocketbook.

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TRIUMPHCUSTOMHOMES.COM ♦ 4060 M-75 N SUITE 101, WALLOON LAKE, MICHIGAN

Tim Schaub 231.883.3545 tim@SchaubTeam.com 203 N. Main St. l Leland

Elegant, modern farmhouse designed by Visbeen Architects to-be-built by J. Peterson Homes.

The 3,800 sq. ft two-story home sits on a beautiful 1.04-acre parcel with 100 ft of private waterfront on Good Harbor Bay. $2,400,000 l MLS 1859200

Splendid opportunity to live in the historic, coastal town of Leland in this charming Cape Cod style to-be-built by J. Peterson Homes.

Open floor plan that seamlessly incorporates a luxurious kitchen, family dining and living area flanked by a stunning fireplace. $599,000 l MLS 1856982

New, craftsman style home, custom designed for this 116 ft of hard sand waterfront parcel and providing exceptional views of North Lake Leelanau from every room. Located off a private road, in quiet neighborhood. $1,300,000 l MLS 1858737

joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 654 Croswell, East Grand Rapids • 616.940.9288 • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168

Contents july | features

Discover more about Up North, people, places, food and events.

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50

70

82

50 | ROMANCING THE STONE Beachcomb with Carly Simpson, yep, of The Daily Splash fame, and marvel in our Great Lakes treasures.

56 | SAIL ON Find out what it really feels like to race 333 wavy, wild miles to Mackinac Island in the most legendary freshwater distance yacht race in the world.

64 | ROCK HOUSE RENAISSANCE Get a brand-new obsession with Charlevoix’s quirky-cool Hobbit houses and the man driven to build them.

70 | NORTHERN WANDERLUST Discover the two-tracks and swimming holes of the UP through the lens of pure young love.

78 | A WEEK WITH THE PIPING PLOVERS Bird is the word on North Manitou Island.

82 | THE CHERRY ON TOP Our picks for u-pick orchards, retro recipes and happy hearts as we head smack dab into cherry harvest.

PLUS | MYNORTH REAL ESTATE (FOLLOWING PAGE 88)

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contents | departments

19

89

Mark Rosenbaum

112 128 River Street, Elk Rapids, MI 49629 - 231 264 6660 www.mullalys128.com hello ifnore is for FIND US ONthis FACEBOOK

You belong on a

9 | EDITOR’S NOTE

109 | DRINKS

13 | UP NORTH

Toast Michigan’s newest designated American Viticultural Area with us.

TC’s Hot Air Balloon; Sault Tribe’s Pow Wow; Iconic Boats + Happy Dogs on Mackinac Island.

21 | THIS IS MYNORTH Hang out with us online, on social and at MyNorth Tickets.

23 | JULY EVENTS Fill every fun-loving second of summer Up North.

45 | TRAVEL

110 | OUTDOORS Want summer adventure with plot twists? Canoe the Boardman.

112 | LOVE OF THE LAND The epic and forever-protected Forslund Dix Point Nature Preserve.

ON THE COVER Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.

Photo by Thomas Bos

Up, up and away.

47 | UP IN MICHIGAN Head to the banks of the Au Sable in the wee hours of the night to find out what (and who!) feeds the diehard marathon paddlers.

89 | DINING Fresh local fish. Our claim to fame.

103 | LOCAL TABLE Salty or sweet, TC’s got your craving.

4

MyNorth.com

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This 4 bedroom, 3 bath spacious ranch is located just minutes from downtown Traverse City! Tucked away in a private neighborhood setting, relax on the backyard overlooking beautiful woods or cozy up to the gas fireplace in the living room. The spacious lower level is the perfect guest suite featuring a huge family room with large natural light windows, all freshly carpeted and painted. Close to YMCA and walking trails at The Commons.

3706 Woodside | MLS 1860920

$379,900

SCHMIDT REALTORS 402 E. Front Street Traverse City, MI 49686

Ann Porter ASSOCIATE BROKER

231.944.4959 Ann@AnnPorterTC.com

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MyNorth.com

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL AND CONTENT EDITOR PROOFREADERS

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Deborah Wyatt Fellows Emily Tyra Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Elizabeth Aseritis, Caroline Dahlquist Kathy Young Kim Schneider, Tim Tebeau, Andrew VanDrie Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Breanne Kerner

WEB DIRECTOR

Jen Berigan

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Julie Parker

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Ann Gatrell Jill Hayes Meg Lau Cyndi Ludka

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MARKETING COORDINATOR MYNORTH TICKETS MANAGER TICKETING COORDINATOR OFFICE MANAGER BOOKKEEPER

Kara Jarvis

Hannah Malinowski Mackenzie Dunbar Libby Stallman Kim Stewart

Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Prism Publications Inc., 125 Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684.

Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $27.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50.

Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2019, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL ’19

7

Burt Lake Waterfront Home

Bay Harbor Waterfront Home

8760 W M-68, Indian River

3200 Village Harbor Drive, Bay Harbor

4 Bedrooms - 3 1/2 Bathrooms - 3,300 Sq. Ft. 200’ of waterfront - Outdoor Pool $1,275,000

5 bedrooms | 5 baths | 4,000 Sq. Ft. 112’ on Lake Michigan and 294’ on Village Harbor Lake $2,490,000

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159’ on Village Harbor

100’ on Walloon Lake

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3275 Village Harbor, Bay Harbor 5 bedrooms - 4 full baths, 2 half baths 5,000 Sq. Ft. - Private dock $1,799,000

4970 Longfield Farm, Boyne City 4 bedrooms | 4 1/2 baths 3,000 Sq. Ft. - Private dock $1,750,000

1339/1324 South Shore, Walloon Lake 4 bedrooms - 2 full baths 1,435 Sq. Ft. - Private dock $749,000

* According to NMMLS by volume sold | Office address: 325 E. Lake Street, Petoskey, MI

editor’s note

ON MICHIGAN TIME TEXT BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

PHOTO COURTESY OF DEBORAH FELLOWS

O

ur house was full this past weekend with four twentysomething kids, friends and an extra dog. All but one are through the college years, working and happy to come home, relax and let life on the lake unfold. Their voices were a low, reassuring hum as I went up to bed well before them, and there was not a stirring in the mornings as my husband, Neal, and I drank our coffee watching the sun slowly turn the shore across the lake a blaze of sun-drenched gold.

This was not our life for many years.

Some people get kids who sleep in.

We didn’t. Ours were up at 6:00 am no matter what time they went to bed.

Their curls may have been rumpled, their eyes groggy, but by god they were up and starting their day. The only sign

they’d stayed up later than usual was that they were increasingly cranky as the day went on. And so were we.

Thus, when you have “early risers” you tend to be committed to early bedtimes. No matter the season or circum-

Hop up.

Grab your swimsuits. stance, our kids were in bed by 8pm My husband or I would read to them until one by one, they fell asleep. The he and I would sit on a quiet dock and watch the setting sun turn our world

on the lake the color of magic.

Obviously, this was particularly challenging during summer nights when the sun outside their bedroom windows rivaled that at midday and boats still buzzed by on the lake, conjuring visions of adventures still being had.

One summer when our oldest was eight, our next-door neighbor’s young grandchildren arrived. That night, as I sat reading to the kids in their beds, the windows wide open to capture the breeze, we listed to the grandchildren playing baseball. Next, we heard them race to the lake shouting for towels on the way and squealing as they leapt off the dock. It wasn’t too long before we heard one of them call a request to their grandparents to bring marshmallows to the bonfire. 4

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editor’s note

I looked up from my book to faces of pure longing as my kids gazed out the windows. When we heard the splashed of the kids going into the lake a second time, I shut the book. “Okay,” I said. “Hop up. Grab your swimsuits.”

And that was that. Since that night we’ve lived whole lifetimes after 8pm in the summer. Hundreds of bags of marshmallows have been consumed and countless games have been played until it is too dark to know your teammates.

I’ve watched as the bodies silhouetted on the swim raft became shadows on the horizon, leaping against the last light of the day. We’ve glided through water so still it mirrors our smiles, bundled in sweatshirts as the light turns bronze and gracefully opens a mosaic of color in our path ahead. We’ve cooked dinner over the bonfire night after night, starting to cook only when the kids say they’re hungry and heading into the house only for a forgotten ingredient.

We’ve gazed at the face of the moon through the telescope at the edge of the water and drifted silently in the dark, in the middle of the lake, literally engulfed in a sea of stars.

At some point each summer, I remember how we laughed watching those little kids scramble out of bed that first night, pulling off their pajamas before their feet even hit the ground.

“Hop up. Grab your suits,” has become a part of family lore. And for me, it’s a kind of mantra. I’m reminded that while there are places in all our lives where sticking to a schedule is a must; summer nights Up North simply can’t be one of them. Let it go. Let your scheduled world be replaced with wonder. And peace. And joy. And you will know, in that moment, there is quite simply nowhere else you need to be.

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth.com. debwf@traversemagazine.com.

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L O C A L LY S O U R C E D . E X P E R T LY C R A F T E D .

PE TO S K EY. W I N E

Up North

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

BLUE-SKY GUY

JEFF GILLES

TRAVERSE CITY BALLOON TOURS

He’s flown over the Serengeti in Tanzania, volcanoes in Costa Rica and the rolling rice paddies of Japan.

These days, Jeff Gilles is sailing the skies over Grand Traverse Bay. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY KAITLIN DUDLETS

I pull into the parking lot at Roy’s General Store in Traverse City. It’s a cool evening in August and Jeff Gilles is already there, prepping for our sunset flight. Jody and Nadine, a couple visiting from Florida, join me. The flight is Nadine's 70th birthday present, something that's been on her bucket list for ages.

Presented with a clipboard, we each scribble our signature, signing our trust over to Gilles. Our faith is well placed; he's one of the most experienced hot air balloon pilots in Michigan having taken his first flight in 1978 at just four years old. Since then, he’s piloted about 5,000 flights, bringing more than 40,000 passengers along for the ride.

The three of us are ushered into Gilles' van and we take off toward Old Mission Peninsula. We soon abandon the pavement and pull onto a grassy field in the middle of Black Star Farms’ vineyard. Gilles lays out the balloon, unraveling all 300 pounds of fabric. An industrial fan is angled toward the gaping mouth and the fabric flutters to life. Before long, it’s hovering above the ground.

Gilles encourages us to hop in the wicker basket.

Barely a moment passes and we’re floating a thousand feet above the vineyard. It's magic. The horizon is blurred in a blue haze. A dog chases us across lawn after lawn and children squeal in delight and wave.4 Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL ’19

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up north | hot air balloon

Gilles discovered his passion for hot air balloons as a child. His father, a military helicopter pilot during the Vietnam War, was desperate to find a way back into the sky after returning home. It seemed like fate when a relative purchased a hot air balloon.

Gilles got his piloting license when he was 18 and was soon ballooning for corporations like Famous Footwear and Rayovac Batteries and flying rides in Australia, Africa and South America. To date, he’s flown over five of the seven continents and about 35 states in the U.S. When Gilles saw Grand Traverse Balloons was for sale, he convinced his wife to venture to the Midwest from California. They’ve since rebranded to Traverse City Balloon Tours and are operational May through November.

Gilles pulls a cord and we begin our descent. After we’ve reunited with land, Gilles presents a bottle of local bubbly.

“It’s a tradition that dates back to the very first balloon ride,” he explains.

“When the Montgolfier brothers first flew their balloon, they were attacked by people thinking they were demons. And so, in subsequent flights, they started carrying Champagne to prove they were French and civilized."

We raise our glasses as Gilles recites the Balloonist Prayer: “The winds have welcomed you with softness.

The sun has blessed you with its warm hands.

You have flown so high and so well that God has joined you in laughter and set you gently back into the loving arms of Mother Earth.”

See page 45 for more ways to go up, up and away this summer!

An occasional Northern Michigan vagabond, Kaitlin Dudlets currently writes lakeside from Metro Detroit. Check out her work at writtenbykaitlinrenee.com or connect on Instagram @katie_dudlets.

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MyNorth.com

curiosities | up north

NEAT FLEET

BOATS WE LOVE ON

MACKINAC ISLAND

Mackinac Island’s transportation repertoire is anything but average.

Beyond the horse carriages and tandem bicycles, the island is home to one of the most intriguing collections of boats on the Great Lakes.

TEXT BY CHRIS LOUD | PHOTO BY BOB BERG

UGLY ANNE

MARION LEIGH

The name might be a bit misleading. This red-hulled beauty was built in the mid 1970s in North Berwick, Maine, and designed for overnight offshore lobster fishing in the North Atlantic. Later she was rigged for dragging fish and shrimp nets.

Ugly Anne now offers cruises and private charters in northern Lake Huron, but she is still a tough little ship. A Detroit Diesel with about 600 horsepower allows the 17 tons of oak ribs and mahogany planking to glide through the finicky waters of the Mackinac Straits. MACKINAWTOUR.COM

This Chris-Craft Constellation was built in 1955 in Algonac, Michigan. The owner is Dan Musser, president of Mackinac Island’s world-renowned Grand Hotel. His 53-foot private motor yacht is built with Philippine mahogany, weighs in at 28 tons and is powered by twin Caterpillar 3126 diesel engines.

The vessel has two state rooms, a pointer room with two bunk beds, two heads, one full shower, a galley, a salon, an enclosed pilot house and is accented with a limited-edition seafoam green hull.

ISLE ROYALE QUEEN III

402

Ever feel like your boat is just not big enough to hold all your friends? Well, take note. In 1960, the 57-foot Isle Royale Queen II went into service carrying passengers and cargo across Lake Superior to Isle Royale National Park. In the late 1980s, owner Donald Kipela Sr. hired naval architect Timothy Graul to lengthen the ship. Over the course of the reconstruction, 24 feet was added to the stern cabin area. Plus, it was repowered with twin 3306 turbo Caterpillar Diesel engines at 235 horsepower each. The boat was renamed the Isle Royale Queen III. In 2010, the ship was refurbished, adding an upper deck. The ship now offers popular Sip n’ Sail cruises around Mackinac Island along with bridge tours and craft beer cruises.

In 1970, the 65-foot Offshore was the 402nd boat built by Huckins Yacht Corporation and thus named 402. The company is most famous for inventing the first planing hull. As a result, in 1943 the U.S. Navy commissioned Huckins to build two squadrons of PT boats, 18 total, for service during World War II. 402 is now owned by the Ware family, known for their dedication to the preservation of historic icons including Mission Point Resort and Silver Birches. Cindy Purcell, third generation boat builder and granddaughter of Huckins’ founder Frank Pembroke Huckins, says, “My husband Buddy and I love knowing that hull 402 is fully alive and will be for many years to come in the Great Lakes.”

PUREMICHIGANBOATCRUISES.COM

Chris Loud is the co-founder of The Boardman Review and writes from Traverse City. Follow him @cfloud on Instagram, and check out TheBoardmanReview.com.

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Bayfront Lots Starting at

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ABOUT THE EIGHTY ONE ON EAST BAY ‘The 81 on East Bay’ derives its name from the size of the new development - 81 acres. This brand new community on Old Mission Peninsula redefines the standard of waterfront living. Every lot has an incredible year round view with unobstructed access to East Bay. With lots up to 1 acre in size, and a boat slip for all residents, this opportunity is truly one of a kind. Use the builder of your choice and get started on your dream home now! Invest in paradise. Invest in the Eighty One! Get in touch with Sales Representative Kyle O’Grady for more information.

GET IN TOUCH Kyle O’Grady, Realtor® Info: 833.BAY.LOTS

Kyle@OGradyDC.com Cell: 248.444.6262

15636 Bluff Road, Traverse City, MI, 49686

culture | up north

A Jiigtamok in Baawating TEXT BY KIM SCHNEIDER

The region's original people have long gathered in Michigan's oldest city, the “place of the rapids,” to hunt, fish and hold an annual celebration of friendship and the season's new life.

The Sault Ste. Marie Tribe of Chippewa Indians continues that spirit with its 38th annual Traditional Powwow and Summer Gathering July 4–7. We asked organizers what not to miss.

THE INAUGURAL BATTLE OF THE GREAT LAKES singing competition has invited drum groups from the Midwest and Canada vying for a total of $10,000 in prize money. Their mesmerizing song styles that date back centuries are scored on cohesion and harmony and even how engaged dancers are when they play.

PHOTO BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

THE GRAND ENTRY lasts less than a half hour, but like

SPIRITUAL GATHERING day starts at sunrise Thursday around the fire in the powwow grounds teaching lodge. The day of healing, reflection and teaching is open to everyone.

THE TRADITIONAL FEAST , Saturday night, is a gift from tribe to community; anyone can fill a free plate with favorites like fresh fish and wild rice.

CAMPING (rustic-style) is offered within walking distance to powwow grounds; showers and restroom areas provided.

FRY BREAD —a deep fried dough—is served in dessert bites.

The food and craft area features corn soup, bison burgers and handcrafted goods by tribal artists from across the country.

an Olympics opening ceremony, it sets the stage with its pageantry of flag bearers, ogichidaag (veterans) and dancers dressed in elaborate regalia.

BUY A COMBO TICKET for Sault Historic Sites to browse native

FANCY, TRADITIONAL, GRASS AND JINGLE are dance

GET ON THE WATER that for centuries provided plentiful

artifacts and exhibits about the region's past.

competition types you'll learn more about through event emcees—as jingle dancers spread tobacco for healing and fancy dancers offer a vibrant contemporary (and literal) spin.

whitefish and a navigational highway—and still does—on a Soo Locks Boat Tour, or rent a canoe at Bird's Eye Outfitters.

For more, visit saulttribe.com or call 906.635.6050.

INTERTRIBAL DANCES let everyone in the audience join in

Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she's the author of the recently published book, 100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die. kimschneider.net

with only one rule: all dancers move clockwise in the arena.

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Carriage House Restaurant at the Hotel Iroquois

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Mackinac IslandZs Premiere Waterfront Dining

ICE CREAM - GELATO - SORBET VEGAN CREAM - COFFEE DELI SANDWICHES - & MORE

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ENVISION YOUR EDEN

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MyNorth.com

5/21/19 11:17 AM

mynorth pets | up north

PET-FRIENDLY MACKINAC ISLAND Headed to the island? Don’t leave your best friend behind!

TEXT BY KIM SCHNEIDER

BREED: Border Collie | HOME: Mission Point Resort FAVORITE THING: Meeting guests from around the globe.

SLEEP PET-FRIENDLY AND POSH

A TRAILER OF THEIR OWN

Mission Point Resort offers 38 pet-friendly rooms in its Straits Lodge, all newly remodeled. Book “Pooch at the Point” for the best value and to get the cool gift of a personal pet bowl. The resort even has a signature bedtime read about pets—the story of Nick the resort dog. Note: Those luxe Carhartt beds may be just for the dogs, but you get the jacuzzi. MISSIONPOINT.COM

Some dogs are basket-sized, perfect for riding up front when you rent a bike from one of the many island outfitters. For dogs who need to spread out a bit, rent a trailer to pull behind as you cruise the trails.

DOGGY PADDLE Here, that phrase doesn’t refer to a swimming style. It means that when you go for a paddle you take your dog along.

Book a guided sunrise trip with Great Turtle Kayak Tours to glide along the ferry docks or the sunset trip to see the sun sink behind the Mackinac Bridge. Just note on your online registration form that you'll be bringing the pooch (and his or her life jacket). MACKINACKAYAK.COM PHOTO COURTESY OF MISSION POINT RESORT

Nick

FERRY TOGETHER Dogs are free on ferries if they ride on your lap or a kid's fare if they need their own seat. Just remember the island's leash law starts on the boat (to avoid dog overboard!) and continues on busy Main Street to avoid collisions with horses.

“We get a lot of dogs that come up and spend the day with their owners to swim, hike around the island,” says Chris Shepler, Vice President of Shepler's Mackinac Island Ferry.

SHEPLERSFERRY.COM

DOGS CRAVE FUDGE TOO Some 10,000 pounds of Mackinac Island fudge is made daily during peak tourist season—a throwback to the days when Victorian vacationers got hooked on sweets (first maple syrup harvested by the island's Native Americans—later, fudge).

Ryba's dips dog treats in a dog-friendly favorite: peanut butter fudge. RYBA.COM

FORT FIELD TRIP Your dog will be the best educated in obedience class after a trip through historic Fort Mackinac where pets are welcome and water bowls are liberally scattered throughout the grounds. You need only worry if your pup is skittish around loud noises—interpreters regularly do cannon and rifle demonstrations. If so, walk to the more remote Fort Holmes located at the island's highest point (the views are amazing). MACKINACPARKS.COM Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she's the author of the recently-published book, 100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die. kimschneider.net

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19

Nothing Short of Fabulous on Two Fortune Lakes (yes, plural) A 5-acre peninsula with over 1,000 ft of frontage on two quietly premiere fishing lakes. A beautifully-designed home. A new guest cottage. Solitude and independence. And, it is just 15 minutes from Crystal Falls. $695,000

Distinctive and Refined Home on the Black River Expansive, luxurious, comfortable and easy-living. Like the Black River, this home and its grounds reflect a beautiful body of work. It exudes calm, warmth and peace. Being here makes you smile.

And settle in. And quite possibly hum along with the River. $799,000

Lake Superior at Eagle’s Nest Two building sites on 1,000 feet of gorgeous Lake Superior sandstone cliff with 8 acres just 10 minutes north Marquette on the little-traveled Eagle’s Nest Road. Privacy, amazing views, swimmable Lake Superior, walking trail along the sandstone cliff, peace and quiet, and a short drive to Marquette. $525,000

HUEY REAL ESTATE | upwaterfront.com Discover the beauty, power, and magic of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. halleyuplakes@gmail.com | (906) 228-8889

MyNorth THIS IS

Instagram Facebook MyNorth Tickets MyNorth.com

HANG OUT WITH US BEYOND THE PAGES

FEATURED EVENTS

7/1 THE YOUNG AMERICANS DINNER THEATRE Boyne Highlands Resort

Somehow these all-stars were left off from our print edition of the Red Hot Best Awards. (Yep, our cheeks are red!) Without further ado, say hello to your Red Hot Best (of the Best!)

7/11 - 8/4 PARALLEL 45 THEATRE’S SUMMER SEASON

NORTHERN MICHIGAN BREWERY

7/19 - 20 MARY POPPINS, JR.

»» Hop Lot Brewing Co., Suttons Bay »» Stormcloud Brewing Company, Frankfort

Civic Center Park Amphitheater

Old Town Playhouse

7/20 LEELANAU PENINSULA WINE ON THE WATER Suttons Bay

7/25 - 28 THE FOREIGNER

Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts

7/26 - 8/3 BAROQUE ON BEAVER CONCERT SERIES Beaver Island

Short's Brewing Company, Bellaire Could it really be 17 years since Joe Short let the microbrew horse out of the NoMi barn with his Short’s Brewery? My, how time flies with great beer...cheers.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANT Trattoria Stella, Traverse City We never tire of dining in this soft-lit, brick den where Chef Myles Anton prepares fresh culinary perfection and sommelier Amanda Danielson pairs it with wines she knows we will adore. »» Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen, Elk Rapids »» Red Ginger, Traverse City

NORTHERN MICHIGAN WINERY Black Star Farms, Suttons Bay & Old Mission Peninsula Two decades of showing Northern Michigan’s wine country all that a winery can do— from producing fine wine to offering a luxurious getaway and so much more. »» Mawby, Suttons Bay »» St. Ambrose Cellars, Beulah

For more information visit MyNorthTickets.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL ’19

21

DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION work best when Bay Area Contracting and BAC Design Group collaborate and forge their ideas together.

bac-tc.com | bacdesigntc.com

TIX Look for this symbol in our events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

July E D I T E D B Y L I B B Y S TA L L M A N

FRI

5

SAT

6

TUE

PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

9 FRI

12

Music | Buzz-worthy Detroit band Nina & the Buffalo Riders returns to Michigan Legacy Art Park’s Summer Sounds with soulful classic rock that everyone can love. Crystal Mountain, Thompsonville. michlegacyartpark.org

Festivals | Close out the

93rd National Cherry Festival with Comedic Genius Jeff Dunham and all of his delightfully twisted cohorts: Peanut, Walter, José Jalapeño, Bubba J, and of course, Achmed the Dead Terrorist. The show is rated PG. cherryfestival.org

SUN

Music | Bumpus performs

SUN

And More | Mixology 101

14 14 WED

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Festivals | Gaylord’s

Alpenfest starts today and continues through the 13th, celebrating over 50 years of family fun with live entertainment, a craft show, parade, 5-10K run or walk, and more! gaylordalpenfest.com

And More | Celebrate

the peak of summer at Cherry Basket Farm in Omena with appetizers by Epicure Catering and beverages by Arbor Brewing and Baia Estate Leelanau.

MyNorthTickets.com

THU

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SAT

reinvented funk and soul sounds at the foot of the Dune Climb in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, part of the Manitou Music Festival. glenarborart.org at The Cooks’ House: Learn the basics of crafting cocktails, using seasonal fruits and vegetables and getting creative with syrups, shrubs, and juices.

MyNorthTickets.com

20

Theater | Totally 80s!

SUN

Sports | Dividing West and

Nature | Join Catherine

Kids | Little Bunny Foo Foo is a

28

high-energy musical showcasing "a saucy bunny who just can't stop boppin' all the field mice on the head!" A Parallel 45 Theatre production, Traverse City Civic Center Park Amphitheater.

MyNorthTickets.com

Pennsylvania Park in Petoskey for Art in the Park. Items ranging from pottery to jewelry, paintings to photographs, and much more!

Rain or shine, come prepared to shop. petoskeychamber.com

SUN

21

Zimmerman, author and documentary filmmaker, for a presentation on establishing meadows in urban settings. Frankfort. gtrlc.org

Art | Some 130 booths grace

Murder Mystery Dinner at Boyne Highlands Resort, Harbor Springs. Jean jackets and spandex leggings, big hair, bangles, leg warmers, and ripped jeans will be all the rage.

MyNorthTickets.com East Grand Traverse Bay, Old Mission Peninsula offers stunning scenery and a challenging landscape for the Traverse City Triathlon. Swim, bike and run from Bowers Harbor. trisignup. com/Race/MI/TraverseCity

FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL ’19

23

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july | events

Fairs, Festivals and Holidays

Find more Fairs, Festivals and Holiday events at MyNorth.com.

Save yourself a trip.

Call ahead to verify all times and dates. Find more events at MyNorth.com

National Cherry Festival: June 29-6

Art & Craft Fairs

2019 Airshow featuring the Thunderbirds; Festival of Races; beach volleyball tournaments and carnival; foodie events; parades & kids events; zumba & yoga; beer tent; Bay Side Music Stage with live entertainment. Entertainment schedule includes: June 29 Trapt & Saving Abel with special guest Tantric; June 30 Styx; July 1 Brett Young; July 2 Gabriel “Fluffy” Iglesias; July 3 Nelly with special guests Chingy & Montell Jordan; July 4 Cherry Idol Auditions, The Four Tops & The Spinners; July 5 Josh Turner and July 6 Jeff Dunham. Traverse City, 231.947.4230, cherryfestival.org.

Union Street, Traverse City, cherryfestival.org

Freedom Festival in Ludington: 3-4

National Cherry Festival Arts & Crafts Fair: 6/30 48th Annual Summer Art Fair: 5-6

Red Szymarek Park, Manistee, visitmanisteemichigan.com Juried Art Fair:4

Children and Pet Parade, Grand Parade, Fireworks, West Shore Art Fair and more. visitludington.com Mackinac Island Fourth of July Events: 3-6

Nubs Nob, Harbor Springs, nmiwomensclub.org

Grand Hotel’s Old Fashioned Fourth of July on Mackinac: Experience the children’s carnival, ice cream social, cookout luncheon in the Tea Garden, free golf for ages 17 and younger, and much more! Fort Mackinac’s Star Spangled Fourth of July: Ann 1880’s Independence Day, with 38-gun salutes honoring the states of the period, performances of patriotic music, and Victorian children’s games. Mackinac Island’s Stone Skipping Tournament: The tournament is open to all ages and always occurs at Windermere Pointe Beach (Located next to Hotel Iroquois) every year at 10am on the 4th of July. Professional skippers compete at high noon, often skipping 20+ skips. Mackinac Island, 906.847.3783, mackinacisland.org.

Annual Artist’s Market: 13

STRAITS-tacular 4th in St. Ignace: 4

Zorn Park, Harbor Springs, harborspringschamber.com Art in the Park Craft Fair:4

Mineral Springs Park, Frankfort, frankfort-elberta.com Art Fair: 6

Beulah Village Park, Beulah, benzie.org West Shore Art Fair: 6-7

Ludington Rotary Park, visitludington.com Women’s Club Art Fair: 10

Old Art Building, Leland, oldartbuilding.com

East Park, Charlevoix, visitcharlevoix.com

Combining the nostalgic sentiment of a small-town celebration with the picturesque backdrop of Lake Huron and Mackinac Island makes the 4th of July in St. Ignace something special. For a unique perspective of Independence Day fireworks, board the 4th of July Fireworks Cruise at 9:30pm on at the Star Line Mackinac Island Ferry Dock #2. The evening cruise lasts about 1.5 to 2 hours and gives you a prime view of the fireworks from both St. Ignace and Mackinac Island. Call for reservations. stignace.com.

SummerFest Craft Show: 18-21

Celebrate the Fourth on The Emerald Isle: 4

Juried Fine Arts Fair: 13

Village Green, Pentwater, visitpentwater.com Bear Lake Days Arts & Crafts Show: 13

Main Street, Bear Lake, visitmanisteemichigan.com 51st Annual Arts & Crafts Show: 13-14

Downtown, Indian River, irchamber.com Cadillac Festival of the Arts: 19-20

Lake Cadillac Waterfront, cadillacmichigan.com

Cadillac Freedom Festival: 5-7

Assembly Ball Field, Crystal Lake, summerassembly.org Arts & Crafts Show: 26-27

Bear Lake Days: 12-14

Downtown River Street, Elk Rapids, elkrapidschamber.org CSA Arts & Crafts Fair: 24

AuSable River Festival, graylingchamber.com Bay Harbor Arts Festival: 26-27

On the Waterfront, Bay Harbor, bayharbor.com Crooked Tree Art Center Outdoor Art Fair: 27

New location: Grand Traverse County Civic Center, crookedtree.org Arcadia Daze Arts & Crafts Show: 27-28

Fourth Street, Arcadia, visitmanisteemichigan.com

Nationwide Shipping Available at Plathsmeats.com 2200 East Mitchell Rd. at the corner of Mitchell & Division Roads PETOSKEY 231-348-8100 116 South 3rd Street ROGERS CITY 989-734-2232

If you have a kitchen, get in here!

The Home of Pepper Mill Spices

Independence Day Parade at 2pm. Carnival, boat parade and fireworks. 231.448.2505, beaverisland.org.

Music in the park, parade and carnival, free kids activities Tea with the Queen story time, food & beverage tent, The Fire on Water Military Tribute, Thunder on the Lakeshore motorcycle show, watermelon eating contest, Pork in the Park BBQ, dunk tank and much more. Downtown Cadillac, cadillacfreedomfestival.com.

Arts & Crafts Show: 20

World Famous Smoked Pork Loin, Bacon, Ham, Hot Dogs, Bratwurst, and Smoked Fish.

Kitchen & Pantry Accessories Decor, Gifts, Gift Baskets Famous custom blended seasonings of the highest quality pepper and spices.

Adults and kids fishing contest, pig roast, merchants sidewalk sales, kids games, entertainment tent, boat and pontoon parade, classic car show, arts/crafts fair, summer fun run, bike tour, Saturday night parade and fireworks. visitludington.com.

Kaleva Day: 19-21

Kaleva School Reunion, music, food, ballgames, car and tractor show, parade, beer tent, poker run, crafts, 5K run/ walk, bake sales and more. kalevami.com.

The House of Good Taste!

Downtown Alden • Open 7 days, 10am-5pm May thru Dec (231) 331-4711 • (800) 226-5481 Visit us all year long at www.aldenmillhouse.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL ’19

25

This is what 99% client retention looks like.

When a wealth management firm has 99% client retention—as Greenleaf Trust does—you have the time to earn your clients’ trust. And to learn their needs and desires, and what they want their wealth to ultimately enable. Greenleaf Trust integrates ROI strategically with tax planning, risk mitigation, cash flow, retirement, estate planning, trusts, and charitable giving, all the while putting our clients’ best interests at the center of every decision. It’s the reason we have a 20+ year history of fiduciary excellence and have grown to over $12 billion in assets under advisement—and why clients stay with us. Call us with your questions; you’ll like our answers.

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july | events

B a h l e ’s

Quality first, Since 1876

D ow n tow n S u t to n s B ay bahles.net | (231) 271-3841 GREEN ELK RAPIDS, SPECIAL GUEST SPEAKERS

Looking to enhance your view?

PHOTO COURTESY OF THOMAS VRANICH

WHEN: THURSDAY, JULY 25 FROM 5:30–6:30 P.M. WHERE: HERTH HALL, 401 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS Distinguished authors James and Deb Fallows wrote the book Our Towns, documenting their travels across the country as they experienced an emerging pattern of American reinvention. On the ground, they spoke directly with people shaping their small communities. From a small plane, they observed land formations that explain the pattern of American settlement. Green Elk Rapids, an organization of volunteers aiming to raise awareness of environmental issues, will host these authors for a special event open to the public.

When the authors agreed to speak at the event, it was clear they had found kindred spirits. Towns like Elk Rapids, and other small communities across Northern Michigan, have been in constant flux, finding new ways to reinvent themselves, while staying true to their roots. This delicate balance is a consistent theme throughout Our Towns.

“Green Elk Rapids was interested

because we saw ourselves as an example of a local group working together and with others to get things done in our community, regardless of constraints and politics,” says Committee Chair Royce Ragland. Green Elk Rapids partnered with the Grand Traverse Regional Community Foundation to help the event come to life. “The timing and the collaboration has been a great team effort and feels like the sort of thing that the Fallows found in the communities they visited and wrote about.”

James Fallows has been a national correspondent for The Atlantic for 35 years and is a winner of the National Book Award and National Magazine Award. His wife, Deborah Fallows, an author and linguist, also has two books and numerous magazine credits to her name.

Their passion to highlight the energy and renewal across the land promises to be refreshing. GREENELKRAPIDS.ORG —Chris Loud

Bring “faraway” up close!

Celestron C5 Spotting Scope

~

Est. 1980

M-22 Downtown Suttons Bay Follow us! (231) 271-6033

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL ’19

27

events | july

Architectural Gem on Betsie Bay Imagination required for your new venture.

St. Ignace Fish Feast: 20

Suzy Voltz

(231) 651-9711 suzy.voltz@gmail.com

• mls 1846976 1121 Furnace St

RealEstateOne.com

57 N. Michigan Ave • Beulah • 231-882-4449

Bring your appetite and fun spirit to the St. Ignace Marina pier where live music, food and beverages are offered.

Sample fish delicacies prepared by local restaurants; kids enjoy a variety of games, or try their luck at the Kid's Trout Fishing Pond. Fireworks over Moran Bay at dusk.

Schedule of events beginning at 4pm. 800.338.6660, stignace.com.

Wood Shaving Days: 20-21

Wood carvers, blacksmiths and other artisans demonstrate; steam-powered sawmill will be operating. No charge for the event, however, you must have a Michigan Recreation Passport on your vehicle to enter the park.

Hartwick Pines State Park, Grayling. graylingchamber.com.

Charlevoix’s Venetian Festival: 20-27

A variety of events geared to all ages that take place within waterfront parks, Round Lake Harbor and Lake Charlevoix.

Find complete schedule, including parades, carnival and food concessions, live music, fireworks and more on the website. Charlevoix, 231.547.3872, venetianfestival.com.

Arcadia Daze: 26-28

Arts/crafts show, auto muster, 5k race, kids fishing and games, entertainment, grand parade, and post-parade concert featuring the Scottville Clown Band and live entertainment each night, followed by fireworks over Lake Michigan on Friday. Finch Park, visitmanisteecounty.com.

Parades and Fireworks JULY 4TH UNLESS NOTED Bay Harbor

Parade: 11am-12pm, Fireworks: July 3 @ Dusk Beaver Island

Parade: 2-3:30pm, Fireworks: Dusk Bellaire/Shanty Creek

Activities: 6pm, Fireworks: Dusk Beulah (CLCBA)

Parade: 1:30pm, Fireworks: Dusk Boyne City

Parade: 10am, Fireworks: 10:30pm Cadillac Freedom Festival

Parade: July 6th at 10am, Fireworks: July 7th at 10pm

G E T W E T. D R I N K W I N E . K A YA K .

WE’LL DRIVE.

Central Lake

Parade: Noon, Fireworks: Dusk Cheboygan

Parade: 10am, Fireworks: Dusk Crystal Mountain

Parade: July 3 at 5-9pm Carnival, Fireworks: July 3 at Dusk

W W W. L W C / W I N E / B U B B LYO N T H E B AY 28

MyNorth.com

Frankfort

Parade: 10am, Fireworks: 10:30pm

july | events Made in Serbia

Gaylord Otsego Lake

Fireworks: July 6 @ Dusk Glen Arbor

Parade: Noon Grand Marais

Parade: 1pm, Fireworks: Dusk Harbor Springs

Parade: 1pm, Fireworks: 10 pm Indian River

Parade: 11am, Fireworks: July 5 at Dusk Lake City

Parade: 10am, Fireworks: Dusk Leland

Hilda of Harbor Your International Connection

Parade: 3pm, Fireworks: July 3 at Dusk Ludington

Parade: 2pm, Fireworks: 10pm Mackinac Island

Fireworks: Dusk Mackinaw City

Fireworks: Dusk Manistee

Parade: 10am, Fireworks: 10:30pm Pentwater

Fireworks: July 3 at Dusk Petoskey

Parade: 6pm, Fireworks: Dusk St. Ignace

Parade: 1pm, Fireworks: Dusk Traverse City

Fireworks: 10:30pm

Film

Find more Film events at MyNorth.com.

Traverse City Film Festival: 30- Aug. 4

‘Just Great Movies’ while helping to save one of America’s few indigenous art forms—the cinema. Venues include the State Theatre, Bijou by the Bay, The City Opera House, Old Town Playhouse, Central High School Auditorium, Milliken Auditorium and the Open Space Park. 231.392.1134, traversecityfilmfest.org.

Cherry Bowl Drive-In Theatre: 1-31

Go back to the Fabulous 50s. Come Early. Pick your spot.

Order a delicious homemade dinner. Play some mini-golf.

Sit back and watch a double feature on the huge outdoor screen. Honor (18 miles southwest of Traverse City). cherrybowldrivein.com

CELEBRATING 33 YEARS

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107 West Main Street, Harbor

State and Main Streets • Harbor Springs 231.526.6914 - hildaharbor@g 231.526.6914 • hildaharbor@gmail.com Monday Saturdayelegant 10-5 • Sunday 12-4 - -Casual fashions for men an Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL ’19

29

We can’t wait to see what you

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hemming& Wealth Management is an independent company, unaffiliated with Fidelity Investments. Listing it does not suggest a recommendation or endorsement by Fidelity Investments.

Third-party marks are the property of their respective owners; all other marks are the property of FMR LLC. Fidelity Clearing & Custody Solutions® provides clearing, custody, or other brokerage services through National Financial Services LLC or Fidelity Brokerage Services LLC, Members NYSE, SIPC. © 2019 FMR LLC. All rights reserved. 850740.3.0

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july | events

Outdoor Movies By The Bay: 7, 14, 21, 28

American Legion Park, on the bay in St. Ignace, is transformed into an outdoor movie theater every Sunday evening.

Free, family-friendly movies begin at dusk. stignace.com Pentwater Movies on the Green: 14, 21, 28

Films will be shown at sunset on the Village Green in downtown Pentwater every Sunday through the summer. July 14 Big; July 21 Elf; July 28 The Sandlot. visitpentwater.com.

Kids

Subscribe free to Kids Up North at MyNorth.com/kids.

Story Hour at Horizon Books: 5, 12, 19, 26

New theme every Friday at 10am. Kids enjoy a craft, story and activities. July 5 Parades, July 12 Michigan, July 19 The Beach, July 26 Dogs. horizonbooks.com

Literary

Find more Literary events at MyNorth.com.

An Evening with Doug Brinkley: 13

Douglas Brinkley is a professor of history at Rice University and author of several New York Times best-selling works of nonfiction. Brinkley takes readers along for the race of a lifetime with his current work American Moonshot.

It is no giant leap considering Brinkley’s crucial pantheon of award-winning nonfiction titles, but it is a thrilling one.

Guest host John U. Bacon is a journalist, public speaker, sports writer and commentator, and an educator at the University of Michigan. He is also the bestselling author of 13 books. Catch this discussion at the City Opera House, Traverse City; 7pm. nationalwritersseries.org

Music

Find more Music events at MyNorth.com.

Bay View Music Festival: 1-29

Experience the magically creative environment that has existed just outside of Petoskey for well over 100 years! The upcoming season weekly concerts of pops and chamber music, Jefferson Starship on July 6, West Side Story July 11-13, The Texas Tenors on July 20, and Durand Jones & The Indications, with special guest Jerome Collins from SNC, on July 25. 231.225.8877, bayviewfestival.org.

Music in the Park: 4, 12, 19, 26

July 4 Jazz North (jazz). July 12 Wild Sullys (crazy celtic).

July 19 Mule Bone (blues). July 26 TBD. Enjoy free, lively music and beautiful views of Northport Bay at G.M. Dame Marina Park. Bring chairs, blankets and a basket full of your favorite local goodies for the full experience. 7-9pm. northportomenachamber.org.

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL ’19

31

WHATFOR IS YOUR MONEY your family.

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july | events

Bradley J. Butcher, AIA bbutcher@sidockgroup.com 989.705.8400 • sidockgroup.com Novi • Wyandotte • Lansing Muskegon • Gaylord • Sault Ste. Marie featured on

LAST GASP COLLECTIVE AT MICHIGAN LEGACY ART PARK WHEN: FRIDAY, JULY 12 FROM 7–9 P.M. WHERE: MICHIGAN LEGACY ART PARK AMPHITHEATER, THOMPSONVILLE (ACCESSIBLE BY ¼ MILE ADA TRAIL FROM PARKING LOT) Kalamazoo band Last Gasp Collective will bring their eclectic sound to Northern Michigan as part of the Summer Sounds program. The troupe blends hip-hop and jazz with R&B, soul and classical music. We caught up with the Art Park's Communications & Special Projects Manager Troy DeShano, who was recently recognized as a “rising leader” by the Michigan Council for Arts and Cultural Affairs.

— Celebrating 63 Years — 1956 - 2019

Tell us about the Summer Sounds experience.

“It’s an outdoor amphitheater in the middle of the woods. Imagine a summer evening surrounded by trees, birds, bees, butterflies, the cool night, the sky above and live music playing … it’s really a comforting, memorable experience.”

PHOTO BY LYDIA MEJIA

What are some of the goals you have with this program?

“When I came in, I thought about how to bring in musicians who can share a story that is different from mine. It’s an opportunity to provide an experience to our audience that they might not have had otherwise. It’s going to challenge them and I think surprise them a lot.”

Why are you particularly excited to bring Last Gasp Collective to the art park?

“Over the last couple of years, I’ve had multiple well-respected musicians recommend Last Gasp Collective. The group is really perfect for the mission of our program. They’re a hip-hop group, but all their music is live. They also have horns and strings, they utilize looping with an electric cello and they have singers and rapping. It really mixes genres and styles, but the musicianship is something I think will really stand out to our audience as a component they can truly appreciate.”

The Summer Sounds program brings an array of quality live music to the Northern Michigan woods for weekly concerts through the summer months.

Check out Michigan Legacy Art Park’s website (michlegacyartpark.org) for the concert schedule. Tickets available at MyNorthTickets.com. —Chris Loud

MICHIGAN BANGLE BRACELET $15 (AVAILABLE ONLINE)

Shop online at www.hullsoffrankfort.com

Hull’s of Frankfort 419 Main Street, Frankfort | 231-352-4642

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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33

Beauty rests on necessities.

The line of beauty is the line of perfect economy.

Ralph Waldo Emerson 1803 -1882

Paul Maurer General Contracting has been building beautiful custom homes in the Grand Traverse Region for nearly 40 years, and during that time we have learned at lot. The most meaningful lesson learned is this– it’s all about what the homeowner wants, not what we want. We believe in listening carefully to our customers and then delivering on their vision. It’s the cornerstone for success.

231.941.1448 • paulmaurer.com • Traverse City, Michigan

PHOTO BY ANJANETTE MERRIWEATHER

july | events

made in the USA is not just a slogan,

IT ’S IN OUR DNA Buy the last best cookware you’ll ever need, proudly manufactured in Wisconsin.

Our small batch process ensures attention to detail and each of our products comes with a lifetime warranty.

NATIONAL CHERRY FESTIVAL WHEN: JUNE 29-JULY 6, 2019 WHERE: TRAVERSE CITY OPEN SPACE This special festival draws more than a half-million people to the downtown Traverse City waterfront to salute and scarf down plenty of our region's beloved fruit. Highlights include cherry pie-eating and pit-spitting contests, a giant country-fair style midway, three stellar parades, a Cherry Queen pageant, fireworks and a dynamo lineup of entertainment.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

CHERRYFESTIVAL.ORG Located in the center of the village of Beulah. Visit us at 262 S. Benzie Blvd.

cr ystalcrate.com | 231.882.5294

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Always the unique and unexpected since 1986

Silver Heart Treasure Necklace by Kathy Telgard 112 North Main Street Leland, MI 49654 (231) 256-7747 info@TampicoLelandMi.com FOLLOW US! www.facebook.com/Tampicolelandmi

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL ’19

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Bayou in the Barn: 5

Celebrate shared Louisiana and Michigan connections— music, food, and community! National and regional musicians perform blues and zydeco music, while Louisiana cuisine is made from scratch with Michigan ingredients.

Bring your lawn chairs, blankets, and dancing shoes. All proceeds benefit Grow Benzie's community center, youth and educational programs (GrowBenzie.org). St. Ambrose Cellars. 231.383.4262, MyNorthTickets.com.

Summer Sounds at Michigan Legacy Art Park: 5, 12, 19, 26

July 5 Nina & The Buffalo Riders. July 12 Last Gasp Collective. July 19 The Go Rounds + Charlie Millard Band.

July 26 Channing & Quinn. Bring family and friends for a wonderful night of entertainment at an Art Park concert this summer. Guests are welcome to bring picnics, lawn chairs, or blankets. Art Park folding chairs will be available to rent or purchase. Michigan Legacy Art Park, Thompsonville. MyNorthTickets.com.

Performance at the former Holly Rosary School: 16

Leelanau Summer Music Festival: The 2 B’s Music of Brahms and Beethoven. Two youthful masterpieces by giants of the classical music world: the powerful Brahms Piano Quartet in G minor with prizewinning pianist Laura Melton, and an all-star ensemble of winds and strings performing Beethoven’s effervescent Septet, Op. 20. Cedar.

231.7357357. MyNorthTickets.com Boogie, Beehives & Beyond: 20

Francesca Amari and Mary Rademaches of the Boogie Woogie Babies are double the fun together, performing lively music reflecting girl singers and groups from the jazz era and boogie woogie of 40's, to the Rat Pack, to fun harmonies of the Shirelles and Cookies, to Linda Ronstadt, Bette Midler, Dionne Warwick, Broadway and so much more! Erickson Center for the Arts, Curtis.

MyNorthTickets.com

Nature

Find more Nature events at MyNorth.com.

Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy Events: 2-31

EXCLUSIVELY AT

Month-long schedule of Trail Maintenance and Invasive Species Removal days at preserves all over the region.

Dress for the weather and wear comfortable shoes! Find the full schedule at gtrlc.org.

Garden Walks in Northern Michigan: 10, 18

July 10: Charlevoix Garden Club, 10am – 4pm. charlevoixareagardenclub.org. July 18: The Friendly Garden Club of Traverse City, 37th Garden Walk in the Holiday Hills area. thefriendlygardenclub.org.

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Sara Hardy Downtown Farmers Market Wednesdays & Saturdays

Old Town Arts & Crafts Fair June 23

Downtown Street Sale August 2

Friday Night Live August 2 - 23

Downtown Art Fair August 17

DOWNTOWN GIFT CERTIFICATES MAKE THE PERFECT GIFT! CONVENIENT PARKING IN THE LARRY C. HARDY & OLD TOWN PARKING DECKS

july | events

“IN CONVERSATION” FEATURING CAROL C. SPAULDING & DOUGLAS HOAGG

WHEN: JUNE 14–JULY 19

PHOTO COURTESY OF CAROL C. SPAULDING

WHERE: HIGHER ART GALLERY, 126 S UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY This modern art show in downtown Traverse City is for lovers of shape, color and form, says Higher Art Gallery owner Shanny Brooke. “Sometimes the wonderful thing about art is that it can be brought back down to that simplistic level—appreciating the nuances of why a group of colors placed perfectly together makes you feel a certain way.”

Carol C. Spaulding grew up in Kalamazoo, Michigan, and earned her BFA from Syracuse University School of Art. She continued her career by exploring various subject matter and mediums including oil, gouache, acrylic, wood, fiber and collage mixed materials. Her popular “Messing Around with Paint” classes at her studio in Leelanau County offer creative art-making experiences to beginning and seasoned artists alike. Visits are welcome by appointment at her studio and gallery in Maple City (3534 W Lanham Rd.).

“Doug's work can be seen as almost a three-dimensional offering of what Carol creates,” Shanny says. “Carol is one of my most popular artists. Even though it is not a literal translation of the amazing surrounds we call home, the colors and shapes often bring these things to memory.”

Doug Hoagg and Carol C Spaulding will hang individual works together as if the pieces are in a dialog with each other. “This approach may lead viewers to taking an open-minded and perhaps closer look at each of our works of art,” Carol says.

“How I approach my art making depends on what medium I am using. For the work in the current show, ‘In Conversation,’ at Higher Art Gallery, I am showing oil on canvas paintings and painted and mixed paper collage work. In both of these mediums, there is a similar approach that feels a lot like building constructions.

“So much of art making for me is intuitive, but ultimately the structure of a composition is paramount. I look for a balance as well as visual energy. In any case, the art-making process involves plenty of rearranging and editing. Palette plays a significant role, whether the outcome is colorful and exciting or joyful, or more restrained and calming.” CAROLCSPAULDING.COM; HIGHERARTGALLERY.COM

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july | events

Runs/Walks/Cycling Independence Day 10K: 4

Shores of Lake Charlevoix, Boyne City, boynechamber.com Paul Revere 5K & 10 Mile Run: 4

Downtown Harbor Springs, harborspringschamber.com Ryan Shay MidSummer Night Run: 4

Thurston Park, Central Lake, ryanshay.org Kids Cherry Festival Fun Run: 4

F & M Park, Traverse City, cherryfestival.org National Cherry Festival of Races: 6

Chateau Grand Traverse, Traverse City, cherryfestival.org Waugoshance Marathon Relay & ½ Marathon: 13

Wilderness State Park, Mackinac City, greatlakesendurance.com Black Bear Gran Fondo Bike Event: 13

Hanson Hills, Grayling, blackbeargranfondo.com Alpenfest 5K/10K Run/Walk, Fun Run: 13

Downtown Gaylord, gaylordalpenfest.com

The Sweaty Yeti 5K & One Mile Fun Run: 13

East Jordan, sweatyyetirun.com Tour de TART: 29

TART & Leelanau Trai, Traverse City, traversetrails.org/event/tour-de-tart Friends of Fishtown 5K: 20

Leland, Fishtownmi.org

Running Bear 5K & ½ Mile Kids Run: 23

Cherry Republic, Glen Arbor, runningbearrun.com Venetian Races Drenth Memorial Foot Race, 5K/10K: 27

Charlevoix, venetianraces.com

Theater

Find more Theater events at MyNorth.com.

Events at the Civic Center Park Amphitheater: 11-31

Three shows are performing in rotating repertory from July 11 – Aug. 4, 2019. Celebrated as one of the most popular shows around the globe, HAIR brought the 60s counter-cultural revolution to a mass audience. This production joyfully dissects an era when the thrill of rebellion became a powerful force against intolerance, subjugation and war. Little Bunny Foo Foo: This high-energy musical showcases "a saucy bunny who just can't stop boppin' all the field mice on the head" to the delight of children (4+) and their adults. Stupid F##king Bird: In this funny, uber contemporary remix of Chekhov's The Seagull, author Aaron Posner stages a timeless battle between young and old, past and present, tradition and revolution. Torrid love triangles, philosophical warwaging and foot-stomping hilarity will inspire raucous delight. MyNorthTickets.com.

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The Foreigner at the Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts: 25-28

The scene is a fishing lodge in rural Georgia often visited by "Froggy" LeSueur. This time "Froggy" has brought along a friend, a pathologically shy young man named Charlie who is overcome with fear at the thought of making conversation with strangers. So "Froggy," before departing, tells all assembled that Charlie is from an exotic foreign country and speaks no English. Once alone the fun really begins, as Charlie overhears more than he should—damaging revelations made with the thought that he doesn't understand a word being said. The fact that he does fuels the nonstop hilarity of the play and sets up the wildly funny climax in which things go uproariously awry for the "bad guys," and the "good guys" emerge triumphant. Manistee. MyNorthTickets.com

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Black Star Farms Events: 1-31

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Young Americans Dinner Theatre: 1-31

The Young Americans ensemble is made up of young, up-and-coming performers, handpicked from across the nation for much-anticipated performances at Boyne Highlands each June, July and August. To enhance the experience, the Broadway-style performances are paired with sophisticated cuisine, resulting in an unforgettable evening of delicious fun. While you enjoy dinner, The Young Americans sing songs—from the classics you've always loved to today's favorite pop hits. Watch as charismatic young singers, dancers, and actors dazzle on stage! Boyne Highlands Resort, Harbor Springs.

MyNorthTickets.com Stroll the Streets: 5, 12, 19, 26

Live music and fun every Friday night from 6-9pm. Music ranges from traditional folk, bluegrass and jazz to rock.

Special activities include magicians, caricature artists, facepainters and balloon-twisters. visitboynecitymichigan.com Petoskey Rocks: 5, 12, 19, 26

Buffed and polished, Petoskey Rocks return for its eighth season! Each Friday night features free carriage rides throughout downtown, a ghost walk, music in the park, and a movie in the park at dark! July 5 Music: The Pistil Whips and the movie is Jumanji; July 12 Music: Dos Hippies and the movie is Coco; July 19 Music: The Real Ingredients and the movie is Christopher Robin; July 26 Music: Jon Archambault Band and the movie is Mary Poppins Returns. petoskeydowntown.com Leelanau Peninsula Wine on the Water: 20

The Leelanau Peninsula Wine on the Water Festival features tastes from local Leelanau wineries, breweries and cideries, as well as delicious food from local restaurants.

Enjoy drinks, food and all-day musical entertainment with the cool breeze from Grand Traverse Bay. Suttons Bay. MyNorthTickets.com.

Libby Stallman is calendar editor of Traverse. Enter your event information at MyNorth.com/events two to three months prior to event date. Questions or more information email Libby@mynorth.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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Paul M. Bonaccini Vice President, Investments Accredited Asset Management Specialist Tyne Hyslop Financial Advisor Jennifer Youker, CFP®, CRPC® Financial Advisor Eric H. Palo Financial Advisor James Spencer, ChFC, AAMS Associate Vice President, Investments Robert Fenton Financial Advisor

13818 S West13818 Bay Shore Dr. •Bay Traverse City,DrMI•49684 • (231) • www.raymondjames.com/TraverseCity S West Shore Traverse City,946-3650 MI 49684 • (231) 946-3650 ©2015 Raymond James & Associates, Inc., member New York Stock Exchange/SIPC. Raymond James® is a registered trademark of Raymond James Financial, Inc. 15-BDMKT-1770 ME/CW 4/15 Chartered Retirement Plan SpecialistSM, AWMA®, Accredited Wealth Management AdvisorSM; CRPC®, Accredited Asset Management SpecialistSM and AAMS® are trademarks or registered service marks of the College for Financial Planning in the United States and/or other countries. Certified Financial Planner Board of Standards Inc. owns the certification marks Certified Financial Planner™ and CFP® in the U.S., which it awards to individuals who successfully complete CFP Board’s initial and ongoing certification requirements.

what to do | travel

Sky’s the Limit Think Northern Michigan stuns from the ground? Catch the view from on high.

TEXT BY KIM SCHNEIDER

GLIDE LIKE AN EAGLE

MAKE A GRAND GESTURE

It's the silence that strikes you first as you glide like a hawk on the thermals high above the North. Then there's the occasional roller coaster-style thrill as you catch an air current and both glider and tummy leap. Seek views from as high as 7,000 feet—that Northern quilt pattern of lakes, forests, rivers and rolling hills—from a glider with a pilot (and you). Cadillac, the “high and dry” base for the Northwest Soaring Club, has perfect glider conditions, says president Erik Saxon. Sandy, dry soils create great thermal updraft, he explains, especially when the sun is out and clouds white and puffy. Book flights with club members ($125) on Saturdays and Sundays, but call on Thursdays to confirm if weather conditions are right. NORTHWESTSOARINGCLUB.COM; 231.352.9160

It can set you back as much as $1,000 for two passengers but will make quite the impression. Pick up your date or business colleague by float plane and head off for a round of golf at Arcadia Bluffs or to a dinner date in the Upper Peninsula.

TC Helicopters offers float plane trips to various locations (dinner and golf extra) along with more affordable helicopter tours over the bays. TCHELICOPTERTOURS.COM; 231.668.6000

CATCH A FLIGHT Cherry Capital Airport is the North’s welcome wagon with its Frank Lloyd Wright-style décor and increasingly local offerings like craft beer, wine and spirits in the airport restaurant. It's also a gateway for locals traveling across the country. TVCAIRPORT.COM

BY THE NUMBERS: 3: Ranking in Michigan airport size after recent growth

PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

4: Number of air carriers offering flights 11: Non-stop flights in and out of Traverse City during peak season (Detroit, Minneapolis, Chicago, LaGuardia, Newark, Sarasota, Charlotte, Dallas, Atlanta, Washington D.C., Denver); more than double the five offered in 2015 76: Daily direct flights in and out of TC June to Labor Day

BUCKET-LIST BARGAIN Thirty dollars could get you dinner—or a flight over the Lake Michigan shoreline and Manistee National Forest. You don't even need to pre-reserve flights peak season (though it's not a bad idea) with Orchard Beach Aviation. Just show up— and go up. Located five miles north of Manistee on U.S. 31.

ORCHARDBEACHAVIATION.COM; 231.723.8095

SOAR OVER MACKINAC Great Lakes Air offers views of the Mackinac Bridge, Island and Straits from its base in St. Ignace. Fall color tours can take you anywhere in the forest-covered Upper Peninsula.

And while the best value is from St. Ignace, they'll fly to your home airport and pick you up, too. Thirty-minute sightseeing tours run at $125 for one to five people, depending on weight.

GREATLAKESAIR.NET; 906.643.7165

Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she's the author of the recently published book, 100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die. kimschneider.net

500,416: Total passengers flying through in 2018—an all-time record Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL ’19

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5/23/19 8:38 AM

essay | up in michigan

L I VE FE E D Yep, they call the AuSable River Canoe Marathon the world's toughest spectator race.

Head to the riverbanks in the wee hours of the night to witness a symbiotic relationship between diehard paddlers and their feeders.

TEXT BY KANDACE CHAPPLE PHOTO BY JEFF CAVERLY

“Of course I’ve heard of a canoe marathon!” said no one, ever.

This is my life. I am deep in the underworld of canoe racing. Few people have heard of it, fewer have done what I do each July—wade into the AuSable River in the dead of the night to drop food and drink into a canoe splitting through the water in a chase for the finish some 120 miles away.

The setup is this: The two-man canoes enter the water at 9 p.m. on a Saturday night. They paddle all night nonstop into Sunday afternoon for 15 to 16 hours from Grayling to Oscoda, Michigan.

“Feeders” do this: We meet our team every two hours along the way and do a feed. This means handing them a jug with a long tube that they can drink from while they paddle, along with a container of food (fruit, energy gel, sandwich) that they tuck inside their canoe.

These feeds take place in the river, thigh to waist (or in crisis, neck-) deep,

in the middle of the night. This includes a lot of reaching down to make sure the thing wrapping around our legs is a weed and not a snake. There’s also mass confusion. There are, after all, dozens of other feeders standing in the river, in the dark, wondering which team is theirs, this black boat or that black boat in a stream of 70-plus boats in the black night.

Added joys include wet, slick clay riverbanks, drop-offs and crowds cheering so loudly that you can’t hear your boat call for you or you for them.

So here’s the exact scene: Me, standing in a river in shorts, old tennies, freezing, heart pounding, holding a precious, life-giving grocery sack from Tom’s.

Yes, Tom’s. They are racing in $4,000 canoes but the secret to success lies in the cradle of a free plastic grocery bag from Tom's. Their precious fruit, Hammer gel and Advil swing above the unforgiving course of the river, a hair-width of plastic away from instant loss should I lose my footing or the

seam of the bag give way.

In my other hand is the drinker.

Again, the advances in canoe technology pale in the face of an 89-cent plastic 1.5-liter water bottle from Walgreen’s and a couple pennies worth of 1/4 inch tubing from Ace for a long “straw.”

With our goods in hand, we feeders stand and wait. Early in the night, we are in the river plenty early, worried we’ll miss our team. The count begins.

They were 15th at last sight, but that doesn’t mean they won't show up in 30th position or, worse, 10th, taking us by surprise. The entire thing is a gamble. Anything can happen. And all they ask is that we be ready for it, their shining moment or their sloshing comeback.

This means we have a good onesecond gap as the boat whisks by to ask one question and one alone, the war cry of feeders everywhere: “What do you need?”

There’s no room for niceties or cheering, we are finely tuned machines of 4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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essay | up in michigan

CADILLAC MICHIGAN cadillacmichigan.com

plastic bags and drinkers. Ask and ye shall receive.

Behold the call of “Chocolate milk!” or “Pills, more pills!” We shall deliver.

Never mind that they ask for these things at 3 a.m. when there is not a store in sight, or, if there is, a closed one. This brings the kinship of a group of feeders to light. Because the parking area at each feed spot is a bartering arena, Jell-O and Tylenol passing hands in an urgency matched only by the Olympics. For if there’s one thing that every feeder wants as much as seeing

Early in the night, we are in the river plenty early, worried we’ll miss our team.

The count begins.

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their team make it to the finish, it’s for their friends to do the same.

Well, our boys placed 13th that year out of 72 boats, 15 of which did not make it. But the best story of all that will become lore for years to come was this: The paddler who said he didn't want any food.

No food? But his feeder didn’t hesitate, she simply plucked the food from his boat and sent him on his way. Only to watch him turn, pause, and holler, “Where is my @#$%ing food????”

We feeders secretly take these stories back to shore with us and revel in the glory of our men losing their minds, right before us, by their own doing.

“They're maniacs,” we say. “Fools,” we agree. “Nuts,” we conclude. In the end, we pride ourselves on being the sane ones as we trudge down a dirt road in the middle of the night in soggy underwear.

UP NORTH HAS NEVER BEEN SO CHARMING! The Pandora Up North Charm available only at Wexford Jewelers

Kandace Chapple is a freelance writer and co-publisher of Grand Traverse Woman magazine.

You can find her at kandacechapple.com // Jeff Caverly is a nature, wedding, event and editorial photographer from Essexville, Michigan. jeffcaverly.com 801 N. Mitchell St. Cadillac MI - www.wexfordjewelers.com - 231.775.1289

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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MARCELINA CLARK PHOTOGRAPHY

MICHIGAN ROCKHOUNDING IS A PASSION UNLIKE ANYWHERE ELSE ON EARTH, BECAUSE WE HAVE THE BEST DARN BEACHES ANYWHERE ON EARTH. GRAB A BUCKET, THE SUNBLOCK AND KEEP YOUR

KELSIE SULLIVAN / DUDLEY

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W

e all have that one rock. Our favorite rock. The rock. We remember exactly where we found it, who we were with, the weather—everything. My rock is a Leland Blue the color of a robin’s egg and about the size of my fist. I found it on a sunny afternoon in June 2016. The air was 80-something degrees and Lake Michigan was that stop-and-stare Caribbean blue. It was sitting in the sand on Van’s Beach about 10 feet from the water’s edge. I held on to it so tightly on the walk home, that the round outline was imprinted on my palm.

Perhaps no one understands the lure of the rock better than Traverse City’s Kevin Gauthier. When Kevin was nine, he spent the summer lying on his surfboard face-down in Lake Leelanau looking for Petoskey stones. He filled shoe boxes with his treasures, and pretty soon, his entire closet was stacked high with heavy, rock-filled shoe boxes.

Years later, Kevin turned down a promotion at his job in Chicago and instead came back home to start a rock shop. It’s a decision he doesn’t regret 21 years later. At Korner Gem, tucked across the street from West Grand Traverse Bay and Greilickville Harbor Park, you’ll find thousands of stones in every color—and Kevin grinning as he polishes a Petoskey.

Kevin Gauthier gives us a lesson on Northern Michigan’s most iconic stones…

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PETOSKEY STONE

LELAND BLUE

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S R A T S K N C A O G I R MIC H PETOSKEY STONES

PUDDING STONES

Michigan was once covered by seas that were home to a variety of corals, including Hexagonaria percarinata.

Petoskey stones were created about 400 million years ago. They are deposits from the ancient coral, which became embedded in limestone bedrock. During the Ice Age, glaciers broke up the bedrock, and the ice’s movement smoothed the chunks of fossilized coral.

Glaciers brought these conglomerates (which resemble a Christmas pudding) south from Thessalon, Canada.

The stone contains rounded pebbles of red jasper, black chert and white quartzite “cemented together” by quartz. You’ll find pudding stones on Drummond Island and along Michigan’s eastern shore (you can find small ones in Lake Michigan, but they’re very rare). Large pudding stone boulders have been found near Clare.

PETOSKEY STONES AREN’T ONLY FOUND AT THE BEACH. They are scattered everywhere across the Lower Peninsula. You can even find them in parking lots and your own backyard. However, there are no Petoskey stones north of Harbor Springs. The northern rim of the coral reef was there, and glaciers pushed the stones south.

THE PEBBLES IN PUDDING STONES DATE BACK 2.4 BILLION YEARS. The pebbles were smoothed and rounded by an ancient river. When glaciers compressed the river bottom, the pebbles were “glued” together.

Wanna be a Petoskey pro + learn how to polish them at home?

MyNorth.com/WeLovePetoskeys LAKE SUPERIOR AGATES LELAND BLUE + MORE…

These brilliant blue, green and purple treasures aren’t actually stones. They’re slag, a byproduct of Michigan’s historic smelting industry. When raw ore is heated, the iron ore is separated from impurities. After the impurities cool, the result is slag. Slag can be found in Frankfort, Cadillac, Elk Rapids, Fayette, Marquette— anywhere smelting was done. When the smelting industry ended in Leland, heaps of slag were dumped in Lake Michigan. Because slag is still commonly found in the area, it’s become known as Leland Blue.

FUN FACT: SLAG IS FOUND IN A VARIETY OF COLORS LIKE FRANKFORT GREEN. Why? Some people think it’s due to the type of wood used to fuel the smelting furnace, but the same type of wood found in Frankfort back in the 1800s would likely have been found in Leland, too. Kevin’s theory: “I think they were experimenting with increasing and decreasing oxygen levels to create a higher-quality steel since loggers needed hard and springy saws.”

These semi-precious gemstones range from pea-sized to 20-plus pounds and occur in a variety of colors including brown, white, red, gray, pink, black and yellow.

Lake Superior agates are the oldest on earth. They formed 1.2 billion years ago during lava eruptions. The next oldest are the Montana moss agates, a mere 370 million years old.

NICKNAME: “LAKERS” What town’s beaches are prized for agates? Find out at MyNorth.com/ AgateParadise

FAVOSITE FOSSILS

This petrified coral is also known as Charlevoix Stone and is a cousin of the Petoskey. It actually resembles a “miniature” Petoskey stone, because the coral had a smaller exoskeleton chamber. (Think of a Petoskey stone as a bundle of pencils and the Charlevoix stone as pencil tips.)

CHARLEVOIX STONES ARE RARER THAN PETOSKEYS. It’s more common to see them at popular beaches, because most of the Petoskeys have already been picked up.

OPPOSITE PAGE: LUCY HUNTER // BEACH TREASURES

LUCY HUNTER

I GREW UP IN ELBERTA AND MY DAD WOULD TAKE MY FIVE SIBLINGS AND ME DOWN TO ELBERTA BEACH AFTER A BIG STORM TO LOOK FOR PETOSKEY STONES WITH SOME FRANKFORT GREEN SLAG THROWN IN EVERY NOW AND THEN. I HAVE FOUND MANY PETOSKEY STONES AT POINT BETSIE AS WELL. ABOUT THREE YEARS AGO, I STARTED LOOKING FOR LELAND BLUES IN LELAND. THIS IMAGE IS AN ACCUMULATION OF STONES THAT I’VE COLLECTED OVER A SPAN OF 50-PLUS YEARS. LAST FEBRUARY, I WAS GRIEVING THE LOSS OF MY DAD WHO PASSED AWAY ON DECEMBER 6, 2018, AND THE INSPIRATION TO STAGE AND PHOTOGRAPH MY COLLECTION CAME. THIS PRINT HAS BECOME MY BEST SELLER.” FIND MORE OF LUCY’S IMAGES ON FACEBOOK @UPNORTH IMAGES AND INSTAGRAM @FISHER806LADY

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Van’s Beach, Leland Petoskey State Park Point Betsie Lighthouse Beach, Frankfort Empire Beach Mission Point Lighthouse, Old Mission Peninsula Barnes Park, Antrim County Peterson Park, Northport Christmas Cove, Northport Wilderness State Park, Carp Lake Frankfort Public Beach

THOMAS BOS

It was a very close call, but these are our readers’ top 10 favorite rockhounding haunts in our 2019 Red Hot Best of Northern Michigan contest. If you go, good luck, and save some for the rest of us!

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DID YOU KNOW? @OFFHANDADVENTURES

Michigan is home to the most varieties of stones in the entire world, Kevin says.

Glaciers covered almost 200 million acres when they formed and acted like a giant conveyor belt bringing rocks south to what is now Michigan.

The coral that formed Petoskey stones (Hexagonaria percarinata) went extinct before dinosaurs were even born. So, when you find a Petoskey stone, you’ve found an animal that’s older than a dinosaur!

Northern Canada is home to several large diamond deposits, and glaciers snuck some south to Michigan. Diamonds are found within a 200-mile swath that runs from Iowa to Ohio. The largest have been found near Milwaukee—including one that was more than 21 carats. A 10-carat diamond was found near Dowagiac, Michigan—which may be the largest found in the state, says Bruce Mueller of C&M Rock Shop in Honor.

Fulgurites are formed when lightning strikes sand. The heat liquifies the sand into a glass cone. Your best chance of finding a fulgurite is to go to a beach or high sandy area during a storm—do not get out of your car—and watch for lightning strikes. Or walk the beach after a storm. (Not to be confused with lightning stone, a concretion found near Saugatuck that has white calcite running through it, like lightning strikes.)

Meteorites can be found in Michigan. Where? Well, that’s anybody’s guess, Kevin says.

Michigan law states that an individual cannot remove more than 25 pounds per year of any rock, mineral (exclusive of any gold bearing material) or invertebrate fossil from state-owned land for personal or non-commercial hobby use.

It is illegal under federal law to remove stones from a National Lakeshore.

Carly Simpson is Digital and Content Editor at Traverse. carly@mynorth.com

OPPOSITE PAGE: THOMAS BOS // GRAND SABLE DUNES — PICTURED ROCKS NATIONAL LAKESHORE I’VE GONE ROCK HUNTING SINCE I WAS A CHILD AND STILL LOVE IT TODAY. WHEN YOU’RE FOCUSED ON FINDING A PETOSKEY STONE, AGATE OR A SPECIFIC COLOR STONE AMONG THE BILLIONS STREWN ACROSS OUR PLENTIFUL BEACHES, THE ONLY STRESS IN LIFE IS ON YOUR EYES, THE ONLY DRAMA IN YOUR LIFE IS THE WIND AND WAVES AND THE ONLY MONEY IT COSTS YOU IS THE GAS TO GET THERE. IF I HAD WALKED THIS BEACH, HIKED THE SHORELINE AND VENTURED INTO THE CAVES ALONG THE PICTURED ROCKS AS A YOUNG BOY, I WOULD BE A GEOLOGIST TODAY. THAT’S HOW MESMERIZING THIS PLACE IS TO ME.” FOLLOW THOMAS ON FACEBOOK AND INSTAGRAM @BOSEXPOSURES

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SAIL ON

EVERY JULY, THE GREAT LAKES BECKON THE BOLD AND THE BRAVE TO RACE THE MAC. STRAP ON TO THE GOTTA WANTA WITH US TO FIND OUT WHAT IT’S REALLY LIKE TO SAIL 333 MILES TO THE FINISH. STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER LAMB

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ake Michigan is to be respected. Her waters can churn up at a moment’s notice, giving sailors a healthy dose of fear, the ride of a lifetime, and in many cases, a bit of both. As racers, we are guests on the lake’s surface and while Lake Michigan is regarded as a “lake” by name, it’s most certainly a small ocean.

The Chicago to Mackinac race, referred to as The Mac, is the pinnacle of the summer yacht racing season. The Mac, a distance race of 333 miles, is the oldest freshwater race in the world. It attracts many of the best sailors, top teams and boats from all over our nation, and in some years, the world. Boats ranging from 26 to almost 100 feet long slip north each year from the Windy City to the Straits of Mackinac to win their class or the entire race. From storms and heavy seas, to calm waters, moonrises, northern lights and sunsets, each race north is different. It’s impressive.

I competed in my first Mac race in 2004 as captain of my own boat, subsequently competing for six more years as captain, and another seven years as crew for others. I’ve never missed a single Mac race in 14 years.

Year 15, the summer of 2018, sees me crewing for Bob Mampe, the owner of Gotta Wanta, a ‘J-122’ that measures 40 feet and sailed out of Traverse City. It’s a very capable boat, and Bob meticulously prepared Gotta Wanta for this specific race. The weather forecast for this race is conflicted. One forecast calls for moderate-to-light winds that are fairly typical of previous Mackinac races. But another forecast calls for the near opposite: a significant low pressure pattern that will create “sporty” conditions—meaning a strong northerly breeze and steep seas. During the skippers’ briefing prior to the race, the second forecast—heavy wind from an unforgiving direction—seemed the most likely. “Know your limits,” the race coordinator announced multiple times.

The week prior to the race I had packed my backpack with only the bare necessities to save weight. Foul weather gear, base layers, waterproof socks, a winter hat and gloves, my rigging knife and my sailing shoes. On race morning

I re-pack everything just to make sure all is in its place. This race, like all others, starts with another check of the weather—confirming the heavy wind and seas that we had expected. Next, a morning prayer that my friends, crew and other competitors arrive safely and without injury.

Prior to leaving the dock, we do a short run-through of our man-overboard procedure. While we’ve all been sailing for a number of years, each boat is different in terms of the systems and safety equipment used in an overboard situation. “The first thing is to yell ‘man overboard,’ and never take your eyes off the person in the water,” Bob advises.

With the weather forecast as significant as it is, safety must trump competition.

For novice spectators, the race start is the most confusing aspect to sailboat racing. Competitors want to be a few feet below the starting line going full speed when the gun sounds—which results in a frenzy of milling boats, each attempting to gain advantage. Sailboats don’t have brakes; collisions happen.

Eyes are wide open. There is plenty of yelling between boats, “Stay clear!”

The air boils with tension, passion and competition.

We deftly negotiate the mayhem and sail cleanly on the favored end of the line until the gun goes off. Tacking the boat toward the Michigan shore, we are starting with a nice lead in front of the majority of our fleet. In moments, we settle into our routine, putting as many crew on the high side as we can and racing the next 15 to 20 minutes like it was a short-term buoy race around Grand Traverse Bay. We assess our boat speed with the other boats in our fleet, and are pleased with our ability to keep the boat under control in the high winds while moving nicely among the six-to-eight-foot seas. The waves slap the hull, drenching our crew in the warm surface water that has blown down the lake from the north during the past 24 hours. The weather forecast is simple.

A low-pressure center is moving from Wisconsin, over Chicago, and slowly to the east-southeast. Low pressure centers spin counterclockwise, and as the backside of the low pressure center is moving across southern Lake Michigan,

it funnels high winds and significant waves down Lake Michigan with ease.

Our goal is to sail to the Michigan shore as the low-pressure center begins to move south and east. With the winds shifting to a more easterly flow, we can tack to begin moving in a more northerly fashion up the lake.

As we sail into the middle of the lake, the winds are consistently picking up speed, topping 28 knots—almost 34 miles per hour—causing all boats, including our own, to put a reef in the mainsail. This provides crews with a way to shorten the height of a mainsail, ultimately reducing sail area and increasing control. We do this without complication, and the boat immediately feels like it’s progressing more efficiently through the waves with less heel angle and better performance.

But the wind and waves have made one crewmember seasick. No one has an appetite. We reassess the crew watch system, placing navigators on opposite watches and schedule a rotation of drivers to keep them fresh in the difficult conditions.

The significant seas make rest almost impossible. Most of us resort to sleeping on the deck, huddled over a padded lifeline that we hold like a football player grasping a ball during a play.

We all have tethers that permit us to clip ourselves onto safety lines running the length of the boat so that if we fall overboard we will remain within six feet of the vessel.

We all realize that given the weather forecast, this is our long-term reality.

That first evening I have an eerie image cross my mind—of falling overboard, my lifejacket failing to inflate. With my foul weather gear and safety equipment weighing me down, I wouldn’t last 30 seconds. When this thought haunts me, I am completely oblivious of the tragedy that had happened on another boat earlier in the day.

As we close in on the Michigan shore and gain Wifi, we receive the news that the yacht Imedi, a 52-foot high performance racing yacht, lost a crew member overboard shortly after the start of the race. Six miles into the race a big wave hit the boat, causing the crew member, who was making a

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LAKE MICHIGAN IS TO BE RESPECTED. HER WATERS CAN CHURN UP AT A MOMENT’S NOTICE, GIVING SAILORS A HEALTHY DOSE OF FEAR, THE RIDE OF A LIFETIME, AND IN MANY CASES, A BIT OF BOTH. Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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routine adjustment in the open stern, to lose his footing and plunge into the sea. Imedi’s crew immediately circled the boat back to the lost racer’s location, only to watch in horror as their fellow sailor slipped underwater, his lifejacket failing to inflate.

Boats stopped racing to help locate the lost racer, sending crews up masts, to no avail. His body was recovered one week later, several miles east of the starting area. The accident marked the third loss of life in the race since 2011.

That year, a storm ravaged the fleet with 100 mile-per-hour winds, capsizing a boat and drowning two sailors.

Morning is met with little talk from our tired crew. The discussion, if any, is about adjustments to course, tactics and strategy. The winds are more easterly as we approach the Michigan shore, however, we also have less pressure— meaning wind.

To stick with our fleet, we tack back out into the lake and begin to feel the impact of higher winds, waves and a more northerly wind pattern. Our goal is to find a balance between the favorable wind direction close to the Michigan shore and the less favorable wind direction and more pressure farther offshore. Since we are sailing as close to the wind as possible—known as close hauled—we feel strongly that by sailing closer to the Michigan shore, we would be able to sail higher to the wind in fewer waves and with comparable boat speed to our competition. This is our plan. As the winds shift east, boats on our left will need to cross the lake and be met with a more unfavorable wind direction. As we sail up the Michigan shore, our strategy works, and we launch from fourth place in our class to second. Morale rises. “Sweet,” is the word we all repeat.

The Manitou Passage, known to racers as simply “The Passage,” is the narrow watery strip between the Manitou Islands and the Leelanau Peninsula and the only funnel for boats and their crews making their way north. A great place to spectate for those on shore, it’s also a decision point for racers. Do you steer for slightly more favorable winds

on the west side of South Manitou, known as going outside the Manitous, adding a little more distance but sailing a faster pace? Or, do you stay in the channel and suffer the same fate as everyone else. The tracker shows us still in second place, closing in on first, so we follow yacht racing’s rule one for when you are in the front of the pack: Don’t leave your competition.

Every hour, we check our position relative to our competition, staring through binoculars trying to make out sail numbers, rig dimensions and boat names. “That’s the other J-122 behind and to leeward,” Jeff, a veteran sailor from California who has joined us for his first Mackinac race, says. Now, it’s up to us to stay between them and the finish.

Personally, I never like to see the competition. I prefer that they be miles behind and not 500 yards to our starboard side and within sight. Nighttime sailing, while the most beautiful, can be the hardest. In past races, I remember hallucinating about sailing around nonexistent islands and brick walls in the middle of the lake. Sleep deprivation is real, and the results can be devastating for a crew. Drivers need the most concentration—sailing as they are either by the stars, by compass headings or wind angles. Nighttime sailing is when races can be won or lost, with winning teams pushing hard when others are not.

While we make considerable ground on the first place boat, we sail too far to the right and into less pressure allowing Blitzkrieg, another boat in our fleet, to slip between us and the first place boat. When the sun has finally risen on Monday morning, we are in a position of challenging from behind in order to catch Blitzkrieg. Not where we wanted to be.

The early evening prediction of a moderation in the wind speed comes true. This second evening is also considerably colder, causing an impressive amount of fog near shore. Exhale deeply and you can see your breath. Our boat speed relative to the boat in front is just a bit slower, most likely due to the fact that our rig is tuned based on a significantly higher amount of wind.

Racing rules prohibit adjusting your rig

tension once the race has started. While we did catch and pass the former leader, Blitzkrieg is now in first place, and based on the wind forecast, is almost unbeatable. The finish of the race is always tense no matter the speeds involved.

Jeff, the sailor from California, asks about the winds on the other side of the bridge. “Do they ever change as you cross under the bridge?” The answer: absolutely.

True to form, the lead boat stalls a quarter mile from the finish. Boats to the north of the finish line are also having a tough time finishing. There’s hope.

But finish place predictions are taboo in racing. And if you call your spouse to let them know that you’ll be finishing within the hour, rest assured, it won’t happen. Just when we believe we will have enough wind to take us to the finish, Lake Huron had other plans.

We begin to ghost forward at a scant 2 knots, watching as the third place boat from behind steams ahead at three times our speed.

We are tense, conjuring memories of past races left sitting idly in a windless hole a few hundred feet from the finish, as others hear their cannon one by one.

We quickly rig the spinnaker hoping that the winds are veering to the south and that the lack of wind had to do with a wind shift that was difficult to detect. The flag on the Round Island lighthouse is beginning to wave, and thankfully we slip through to our finish.

The cannon sounds from the island.

There are smiles, handshakes and ultimately relief. It was a great race and a hard one, too. Over 60 boats retired from this race compared to over 300 that started. We finish with a second in our class, and the desire to do it all over again.

Christopher Lamb, a Traverse City resident, is a principal partner and trust officer at Old Mission Investment and Trust. Growing up on Lake Huron, his first sailing experience was in 1978. After completing the adult sailing program at NMC over 20 years ago, and with the support of his wife Autumn, Christopher is committed to remaining a lifelong sailor and Great Lakes mariner.

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ROCK HOUSE RENAISSANCE ALMOST 50 YEARS AFTER HIS DEATH, CHARLEVOIX’S EARL YOUNG AND HIS STONE MASTERPIECES ARE GETTING FRESH, NEW RECOGNITION.

TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS PHOTOS BY RACHEL HAGGERTY

From his childhood home, a pretty little Victorian on Charlevoix’s State Street that still stands, Earl Young could walk to the Lake Michigan shore in a hop-skip. After heading west on Park Avenue, he turned his back on the booming turn-of-the-last-century downtown and quickly covered the short block to the cobalt water and sandy beach littered with wet, glistening stones. Those stones were magic to him.

From his youth and throughout his lifetime, Young connected with rocks—from the shores, the fields and the quarries of Northern Michigan—in an almost supernatural way. It was as if they spoke to him of what they could become; how one could fit into another to construct a building, chimney or fence. They whispered of their connection to the earth, the water and the landscape; of giving a family shelter; of becoming a part of magnificent fireplaces that would draw families to them—and thus together.

Many years after those hikes, when he’d become a designer and builder, Young was known to bury or sometimes sink rocks and boulders that he found and hoped to use in a building one day. “Stones have their own personalities,” Young told a reporter for the Detroit Free Press in 1973. “People say I’m crazy when I say so, but they really do. Why, I found a stone that weighed 160 tons. It was formed 350 million years ago at the bottom of a warm sea and was carried here 10,000 years ago by glaciers.”

Young was 84 at the time of that interview and his posterity was already scattered around Charlevoix in 31 structures of his design that are marked by whimsical chimneys, wavy roofs clad in shake shingles, arched doorways, enchanted fireplaces, low ceilings, turrets and genius use of stone that can run the gamut to jewel-colored boulders to stacked limestone. They’ve been called Hobbit houses, mushroom houses, Hansel and Gretel houses, Flintstone houses, Harry Potter houses and many other names. Look at them closely and you find hints of a Swiss chalet, a Cotswold cottage, an Asian pagoda, European castles and Frank Lloyd Wright’s Prairie Style. The truth is, each building is so different and unique that they defy any one descriptor.

A Realtor by trade, Young was a self-taught photographer, architect, builder and mason. He read voraciously and in later years, he and his wife, Irene, who shared his artist’s soul, were enthusiastic world travelers. He took inspiration mostly from the earth and landscape, but he wasn’t afraid to lift cues from the emerging architectural styles of the era.

He worked without blueprints, drawing pictures in the dirt to show his workmen what he wanted built—unless Irene figured out what was in his brain in time to sketch it out for the workmen.

OPENING SPREAD: THE MUSHROOM HOUSE ON PARK AVENUE. THE WINDOWS ARE FROM A POLISH CASTLE. ABOVE TOP: THE SUCHER HOUSE ON PARK AVENUE. BOTTOM: ROSE COTTAGE ON THE GROUNDS OF THE PANAMA HOUSE IN BOULDER PARK.

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CLOCKWISE TOP LEFT: THE MUSHROOM HOUSE // WINDOW OF THE PANAMA HOUSE // KITCHEN OF THE MUSHROOM HOUSE // WINDOW OF THE SUCHER HOUSE //LIVING ROOM AND FIREPLACE OF THE MUSHROOM HOUSE. BELOW: THE SUCHER HOUSE.

VIDEO TOUR: Take a drive past the Hobbit houses with us. MyNorth.com/EarlYoung

After building one home on Park Avenue, across the road from the shoreline he walked as a youth, Young was ready for what David Miles, curator of the Charlevoix Historic Society, refers to as an “explosion of creativity.” It would be a development called Boulder Park and it would be located a half-mile west of the Park Avenue homes. The crown jewel would be, and still is, a home called Boulder Manor.

“Townspeople were saying, ‘What in God’s name is that man up to out there,’ ” says Miles. Boulder Manor’s walls and chimney are clad in fabulously large boulders that Miles explains as looking like they landed together in a kind of “reverse Big Bang Theory.”

Creativity aside, the structure is a feat of construction, especially given hydraulic front loaders weren’t even invented yet. “I was driving by just the other day and noticed some of those boulders,” says Bob Drost, a Charlevoix landscaper who regularly deals in moving massive rocks. “One of them must have weighed two tons plus. It blows my mind. I would give a lot to have spent a day with him before he died.”

The buildings are a gift indeed to this beautiful little town.

Young’s pièce de résistance, the stone and turreted Stafford’s Weathervane Restaurant (finished in 1954) sprawls regally on the north shore of the channel that connects Round Lake with Lake Michigan. The drawbridge that opens to let boats pass from lake to lake sits in its shadow. Young knew how to play to the dramatic.

As the decades passed, Young and his work became Charlevoix institutions. Until his death in 1975 he kept an office in the Weathervane. He walked there almost daily—leaning on a walking stick for support, a beret on his head, a scarf around his neck and his poodle, Pamper, on a leash.

While Charlevoix has always appreciated Young and his work, for decades after his death the buildings got little national or even regional recognition. There were reasons for that—Young was self-taught (he dropped out of University of Michigan’s school of architecture after a year because it was too stifling), most of his clients weren’t terribly wealthy and he worked exclusively in small-town Charlevoix, all factors that made it difficult for him to build a wide-ranging reputation. In addition, many of his homes were defined by low ceilings, almost nonexistent kitchens (cooking wasn’t a priority to Young) and small rooms. It took people who really understood Young’s vision for buildings that hugged their landscape to buy in.

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CLOCKWISE TOP LEFT: ROSE COTTAGE // ONE ONE OF YOUNG’S SIGNATURE “MELTING” CHIMNEYS ON PARK AVENUE // FLOWER POT BUILT INTO THE STONE FENCING AROUND THE SUCHER HOUSE // STONE FENCE AROUND THE SUCHER HOUSE; INTERIOR OF ROSE COTTAGE. BELOW: GRANT STREET HOUSE— IN THE PARK AVENUE BLOCK.

ALL EYES ON EARL To set up your walking, bus or private vehicle tour, contact the Charlevoix Historical Society. The photo book Mushroom Houses of Charlevoi x, also available from the society, is a great place to start your Earl Young tour. 231.547.0373, chxhistory.com To take the Mushroom House Tour aboard a GEM car with Edith Pair go to mushroomtours.com.

FAST FORWARD to a summer day in 2004, when Miles received a mildly panicked call from the Charlevoix Chamber of Commerce. It seems there was a bus tour in town and none of the tourists aboard wanted to shop. Could Miles find something for them to do? He was aboard the bus 25 minutes later, directing the driver to cruise past Young’s buildings while he narrated. His script came naturally. Young had been a friend of Miles’s father and Miles had grown up with the houses as a neighborhood fixture. It wasn’t until, taking a walk one day soon after Young’s death, that Miles decided to pause and look, really look, at the buildings. “It was like being hit on the head with a 2-by-4,” he says. “They just came alive.”

The bus tour was a huge hit and led to regularly scheduled tours, plus guided and self-guided walking tours, all sponsored by the historical society. Last summer, some 3,000 people took the tours. Add to that another 1,000 pairs of eyes on Young’s buildings, courtesy of Edith Pair and her delightful GEM car tours that run morning to night from May through October. An artist who once had a gallery in Young’s former office in the Weathervane, Pair decided to launch her tour business after fielding question after question about him.

“Word has gotten out about Earl and people—including architects—are coming from all over the country now,” Miles says. The comparison to Frank Lloyd Wright and his designs that hugged the landscape and use of organic materials is as common now as it is inevitable (although Young, who always insisted his only influence was Mother Nature, would have bristled at it!).

Recently, the Charlevoix City Council designated a historic district for the Young homes in the Park Avenue/Clinton Street block, meaning that the exterior of the homes can’t be altered, only historically preserved. On the heels of that came a Michigan Regional Emmy for a documentary about Young called The Wizard of Boulder Park. This year too, an Earl Young-designed hotel across from the Weathervane, long called The Lodge, is being renovated and rechristened as Hotel Earl.

Finally, due out at the end of this year is a book published by the Charlevoix Historical Society Press, authored by Miles, that details, building by building, Young’s evolution as an artist, builder and designer—from his first Craftsman-esque home finished in 1921, through the mid-century modern Sucher home constructed of stacked Onaway ledgestone, and beyond.

At long last, anyone who cares to listen can learn what the rocks whispered to the boy.

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor at Traverse. lissa@traversemagazine.com // Rachel Haggerty is a student at Northern Michigan University and was a photography intern with Traverse. She is a South Lyon native whose favorite Michigan spot is Echo Lake Nature Preserve in the U.P.

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W

ith a web of old logging and mining roads and plenty of ORV routes, one can drive across the UP, east to west, entirely on dirt roads. Now this may seem like an ambitious task, because it is. Perhaps thankfully, these roads don’t fit our modern standards of convenience, cruise control, vacation time and ETAs. So driving east to west across the UP on dirt roads is definitely possible, I just didn’t ask for enough time off work.

Although failure was imminent, we embraced it. Laura (my wife), Layla (our dog) and I rolled onto the ferry to Drummond Island as it bobbed in the cobalt water of Lake Huron. The easternmost landmark in the UP, the island was an obvious starting point. The Porcupine Mountains would be our journey’s end in the west.

Pedro, a 2005 Chevy Suburban with a memory foam mattress, was full of the creature comforts of home—our bed had four pillows and a down comforter, Thai curry and venison backstrap were on the menu and the heaviest thing I carried was the case of beer across the grocery store’s parking lot. Heck, even our dog had her own bed.

This type of trip does demand an appetite for exploration and a keen sense of navigation, though. Yes, you can stay at campgrounds, but campsites fill up (and I never have the foresight to make reservations). We camped on public land, those giant swaths that make up almost one-third of the UP. These lands, those (usually green) areas on maps, belong to all of us. Public lands are the foundation of our conservation system and the reasons (among many others) why we can still see wildlife, hunt, float rivers, get lost and explore this beautiful nation. We are public landowners. What kind of landowner doesn’t take the time to enjoy their own land?

DIGITAL MAPS ARE GREAT, BUT NOTHING WILL EVER REPLACE THE SATISFACTION OF DRAWING A ROUTE ON A MAP. // NOT ALL ORV ROUTES CAN HANDLE 4X4 TRUCKS, MAKE SURE TO SELECT THE RIGHT ROUTE BY PICKING UP A MAP FROM THE DNR.

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COWBOY COFFEE. How to make excellent java out on the trail. MyNorth.com/drinkitblack

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We spent the days driving, trying to closely follow a route I had selected for us a week prior. (Tip: Let go of anticipated arrival times.) On trips like these, it usually takes a few days to settle into a routine and learn how to pack the car so the pots don’t rattle on every bump. As the miles ticked by, we fell into a rhythm only a dirt road can drum. We made sandwiches on dusty bumpers, argued over where to store the toilet paper, divided up camp duties and laughed at our mistakes. The dynamics between travel partners demands a sense of humility for a successful trip. Instead of asking yourself how they could make this trip a better experience, you must ask yourself how you can make a better trip for them. It’s a selfless act that actually works and turns frustration into grace. In the white haze of a glowing headlamp while mosquitos buzz and your bed feels like a sandbox (thanks, Layla), it means fetching a water bottle or chasing the dog regardless of what you’re wearing.

And doing anything in your underwear after dark in the UP is the ultimate sacrifice (thanks, mosquitoes). We eventually found time to embrace our surroundings and remind ourselves why we took this trip in the first place.

Jim Harrison once wrote in The New York Times : “It’s not easy to cheerlead for the Upper Peninsula now after the extractive logging and mining.” Young forests and slag piles cover these scars, yet one can’t help but imagine what the UP once was. And though the land has been beaten and bruised, it still thrives. We slept in clear cuts and clawed our way around old mining ruins. We picked wild blueberries next to stumps that spoke of loggers past. We sipped coffee, inhaling the aroma of the morning mist. I plucked smallmouth bass with my fly rod from the boggy shores of inland lakes. Layla wandered the forest while we worked, her damp nose inspecting every crevice that just might hold a critter to chase or something dead with which to perfume herself. Drive these dirt roads long enough and (unwillingly) donate enough blood to the local skeeter population, and you’ll see more than swamps and stumps and different shades of brown and green. The land glows with a quality of light you can only find Up North.

Almost too soon, we reached our destination, the Porkies. We dove deep into Lake Superior, washing off bits and pieces of the land we had brought with us from Drummond Island, as if to say, “This belongs to you, thank you.”

Sam and Laura Brown live in Leelanau County. Keep up with their adventures @gnarggles and @laura.lou9

SAM FLY FISHES FOR BASS IN LAKE OF THE CLOUDS IN THE PORKIES. // LAYLA STRETCHES HER LEGS DURING GOLDEN HOUR IN THE HIAWATHA NATIONAL FOREST. // LAYLA AND LAURA ON THE WAY DOWN FROM THE LOOKOUT TOWER IN THE PORCUPINE MOUNTAINS WILDERNESS.

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A Week with the Piping Plovers SHE HEADS TO NORTH MANITOU ISLAND TO MONITOR THE GATHERING OF BIRDS AND DISCOVERS A BIT ABOUT HUMAN NATURE. STORY AND PHOTOS BY LOREEN NIEWENHUIS (AKA: DELIGHTFUL VOLUNTEER)

“You must be Alice,” I say to the woman already on the boat with the park rangers.

“I’m your volunteer for the week.”

Alice Van Zoeren is the naturalist hired

by Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore to help watch over the endangered Great Lakes piping plovers on North Manitou Island. This shorebird is smaller than a robin and slightly bigger than a chickadee. It is the color of sand on its back with a white belly. Adults have a black band around their necks and a black slash on their forehead like a unibrow.

Alice is a small woman dressed all in khaki. She blends into the neutral colors of the boat. I think I might lose her when we get out on the dunes.

The captain points the boat toward Dimmick’s Point at North Manitou Island’s southeast corner. When we get close, the rangers pull down an inflatable rowboat and slide it overboard. Alice scrambles out of the cabin and begins lowering supplies onto the boat. By the time I get into the rowboat, it’s jam-packed with jugs of fresh water, Alice’s pack, Alice and now me and my pack.

“You’re on the rowing side,” Alice says, the disappointment in her voice telling me that she had wanted to row us ashore.

“I’m happy to row,” I smile, determined to be a delightful volunteer, to go beyond her expectations.

When we bump into the shallows, a young guy pulls us onto the beach and helps unload our gear. Then he jumps in and rows to the ranger boat. I just witnessed the shift change on the island.

The piping plovers are monitored from the moment they arrive in April through July when the new chicks are fully fledged and able to fly south. A comfortable camp was established near the nesting area for the people watching over them.

“Stow your things and we’ll check on the birds,” Alice says, anxious to get to work.

Determined to be a delightful volunteer, I stow my pack, grab the other spotting scope and follow her. The entire southeast point of the island is restricted while the piping plovers are nesting. Signs along the beach warn hikers to keep out.

Alice stops and pulls a radio out of her vest. “We need to call in to dispatch. They don’t know your name, so I’ll just call you ‘the volunteer.’ ” “Delightful volunteer,” I say raising my eyebrows to no response from Alice.

Once she called us in, Alice walks slowly at the edge of the water, attuned to every sound and sight and track in the sand.

I almost trample her. As a long-distance hiker, once I get near the water I want to get the miles rolling beneath my boots.

I put a buffer zone between us and am glad I did because she soon stops completely, opens the tripod on her scope in one fluid movement and had sighted and identified several birds before I reached her side.

“That’s the male from West Two nest, OYB:XL and he’s with two of his chicks,” she says. She pulls out a complicated data sheet used to keep track of the birds. She records the sightings, then hands me one of the sheets. We are charged with locating, identifying and monitoring all the piping plovers on the point. And there are dozens of birds counting the adults and newly hatched chicks.

All birds banded in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore have an orange flag on the top of their left leg (a plastic band with a little tag on it) and a metal band on the top of their right leg. On their ankles, they have bands that identify each individual bird. Usually these bands are a single color.

Sometimes—just to keep it interesting—the

bands are striped. The color code for each bird can be verbalized: “O, little b, X, bob.”

This meant that on the bird’s left leg, he has an orange flag (O), on that ankle is a light blue band (little b). On its other leg is a metal band (X) plus one of the striped bands, light blue and orange (bob is blueorange-blue).

If this sounds confusing, it’s because it is.

And the birds constantly dart around on their twiggy legs making it difficult to decipher the color-coding. All of the colors of the bands are needed to identify a bird.

We stroll to the edge of the sandy point.

Alice stops every few steps, scopes the birds, quickly identifying them and moving on often before I have my scope adjusted properly.

“I hate it when the stones align to look exactly like a piping plover,” I mutter into my scope later on the third day.

“Well. That’s kind of the point,” Alice says. “They live a life of camouflage. Oh, we need to check a nest. They’re due to hatch.”

Alice shoulders her scope and begins the agonizingly slow walk over the low dunes. The researchers protect each nest by putting a cage over it. The birds can get in and out to tend the eggs, but predators—like coyotes—are kept out. This single measure has almost tripled the hatching success of these rare eggs.

Alice adroitly identifies several more birds on the way to the nest. She notes that one chick is still hopping on one leg. “We call him Hoppy,” she deadpans. The little bird moves quickly even while bouncing on one leg.

Piping plover chicks begin feeding on their own right after hatching; they are precocial as opposed to altricial (altricial species are those in which parents need

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HEAD TO THE MANITOUS. Explore these wild islands at MyNorth.com/themanitous

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The Great Lakes piping plover population was at a low of only 13 nesting pairs in the 1980s. With conservation efforts (involving professionals at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, US Fish and Wildlife Service, Michigan Department of Natural Resources, the University of Minnesota and the University of Michigan Biological Station), that number has rebounded to around 70 nesting pairs today. Learn more about this resilient Great Lakes bird at greatlakespipingplover.org.

Occasionally, a piping plover nest will be abandoned or in danger of being washed out by waves. Monitors follow protocols to salvage these eggs for transport to the University of Michigan’s Biological Station near Pellston, Michigan. There, eggs are incubated and hatched and the chicks cared for by personnel from the Detroit Zoo. If a bird wears a “split band” (two colors on one band), they were hatched at the biological station. Since this practice began in 1992, the station has successfully hatched dozens of eggs.

to feed the chicks, as with robins). Piping plover chicks run around chasing bugs minutes after hatching.

We finally get close to the nest. I set up my scope alongside Alice and focus on the male plover sitting on the nest.

“He’s not acting like the eggs are hatching yet,” Alice says.

“How do they act?”

“They look surprised.”

Back at camp that evening, I try to break the ice by asking questions.

“What’s your favorite bird?”

“The piping plover.”

I regroup. “What was the most fascinating bird you’ve ever seen?” I crossed my fingers that it wasn’t the piping plover again.

“I once saw a Great Shearwater here.

Along the mainland.” Alice looks at the perched dunes along the shoreline. I let the silence draw the story out of her. “It’s not normally found here. A hurricane blew it off course, off the Atlantic.” She pauses, remembering. “It was windy and rainy here, not the best time to be out birding.” A small smile showed briefly on her face, then fades. “I was the only one to see it alive.

By the time others got there, it had died.”

“Because of the storm?”

“Probably. It wasn’t acting normally when I saw it. They are usually powerful in flight. I’d love to see one out over the Atlantic sometime.”

A screeching in the treetops breaks the moment. Alice looks at me.

“Monkeys!” I say with an impish grin.

“It’s a red-eyed vireo upset with the blue jays.”

I am astonished that she got all of that from a few screeches. “Blue jays are bullies.”

“And they’ll eat the chicks of other birds,” Alice adds.

“And there’s that,” I concede to the expert.

During my days on the island I learn to walk slowly, to adjust my tripod without wrestling it, to sight birds at a distance, then quickly bring them into focus with my scope. I learn to be still.

On the final morning, I wake before sunrise to accompany Alice on her predawn walk. She did this every morning, but assured me I didn’t have to accompany her. It was not part of the volunteer job, this up-before-the-sun stroll.

“I’d like to. At least once. Maybe the last day?” I half-plead. She didn’t approve, but she didn’t forbid it. So, on that last morning when I hear her stirring, I shoulder my scope and follow her toward the shoreline.

There is barely enough light to make out the sandy pathway bordered with dune grasses and poison ivy.

At the lakeshore, she reads the events of the night, the history of the darkness.

She points to some tracks: paws digging into the soft sand on either side of a thick tail. I know this one: otter.

We walk slowly toward the end point of land, that sandy hook reaching out into Lake Michigan.

“Why don’t you stay here and look for the third unbanded chick?” It wasn’t really a question. She was dropping me here to keep me from trampling her.

I set up my scope so I can sit on the dune and sight up the point in search of three tiny birds I could easily have balanced together on one palm. They were so newly hatched that they hadn’t been banded yet. In a few minutes the top of the sun crests above the lake and there is enough light to find one of the birds darting about at the top of the waves. Its sibling joins it a few minutes later.

The challenge of finding the third chick was to keep track of the two I had already found while scanning the area for the third.

If another chick appeared apart from the two, it was essential to quickly locate the first two to make sure the third wasn’t actually one of the first two that had just wandered. I do this for the next hour as the sand begins radiating the sun’s warmth.

Alice appears at my elbow, startling me. “I think a coyote got most of the chicks from West Six’s nest,” she says. “I saw tracks.

Tracks, then a pounce.”

“No,” I say. I had seen one of the chicks when it was still wet from hatching. I was the first person to see it, this endangered bird on the brink of extinction, hatched into existence on this wild island. Such hope

running around on toothpick legs, a puffball of energy and ancient migration maps. “Did any survive?”

“I saw only one.”

Of the five eggs in that nest, only one chick survived.

When it was time to leave the birds, Alice meets up with me. “Hoppy is using both legs now. He’s all better.”

“He’ll need a new name,” I smile.

Alice records my sightings onto her data sheet. On this last day, I had finally gotten the hang of it. What I thought would be a fun bird-watching outing turned out to be some of the most meticulous, difficult work I had ever done.

We return to camp to pack and straighten up for the next shift. Since most of the chicks had fledged, the time monitoring the birds was almost finished. Many of the female adults had already flown off leaving the males to guide the chicks south to their winter home along the Carolinas or the Gulf Coast.

Alice leaves notes for the next team about the birds and especially about the coyote. She was sure the evidence was there, the tale of carnage in the sand.

Finally, Alice shoulders her enormous pack and her scope and we haul our gear to the beach. Once there, she turns on the radio. We see the ranger boat approaching and hear the voice on the radio say they were en route to Dimmick’s Point to pick up Alice. She looks at me. “You weren’t mentioned,” she says with the slightest tease in her voice. “They may not let you on the boat.”

“What?” I say with mock horror. “They can’t leave the delightful volunteer behind!”

Finally. I get a smile from Alice, the master birdwatcher and protector of the endangered Great Lakes piping plover.

Loreen Niewenhuis is a scientist, adventurer and fast hiker. She has written a trilogy of books about our Great Lakes. Loreen travels widely giving dynamic presentations about our Great Lakes. Learn more at laketrek.com

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ANDY WAKEMAN

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Text by Emily Tyra // Photos by Andy Wakeman and Dave Weidner

arah and Phil Hallstedt are a firstgeneration farming family growing eight varieties of sweet cherries at their U-Pick farm, Hallstedt Homestead, in Northport. At King Orchards U-Pick, Bakery & Farm Markets in Kewadin and Central Lake, brothers John and Jim King, along with their wives, Betsy and Rose, and their children have been growing fruit since 1980. The Kings currently harvest over 140 acres of Montmorency tart cherries, plus Balatons and black sweet cherries.

We asked these families to share the juiciest details of their life on the orchard.

Here’s their farmer wisdom…

What three words best describe what you feel when you put your head on the pillow after a long day in harvest season?

Hallstedts: Exhausted, satisfied, planning ahead!

Kings: Satisfaction, optimism and gratitude.

What’s a fun part about your jobs as cherry farmers?

Hallstedts: We love sharing the experience of what we have here, and the joy they have of picking and eating an amazing fruit!

Many people don’t know what a difference it makes to have truly fresh fruit right off the tree. We love exposing folks to fresh fruit, many for the first time.

Kings: We tend the land together, we

run our business with the support of each other and we wholeheartedly welcome visitors to our farm, treating them as part of the family. We love sharing the abundance (and joy!) of our harvest with our customers. We take pride in getting our hands dirty and seeing the smiles that result.

What do people say they love most about the U-Pick?

Kings: They love being in a working, healthy orchard and seeing where their food actually comes from. Families love this unique outdoor experience. This is an activity that grandma is as happy to be participating in as the 3-year-old is.

You’re never too young or too old to enjoy U-Picking (it is always fun to see the kids and orchards grow from year to year).

Tell me about some of your best or most beloved customers?

Kings: We love kids at King Orchards so many of our favorite customers are 3 feet tall, when running down the grassy row is as much fun as picking the fruit.

For the current generation: What was it like to grow up as cherry farmers’ kids?

Kings: Tons of fun! My parents were flexible enough that they were able to come to every sporting event but always went back to work at night. I always called my mom the best 5-minute chef and since we always lived right next to the market, our dinners were always interrupted by my

mom running out to greet a customer who happened to drive in after hours. Taking a tractor ride or going on a fruit delivery with my uncle Jim never got old. Unlike most kids who vacationed in the summer, our fun was always centered around snow, whether it was skiing or the ice-skating rink my dad made in the barnyard. —Second-generation farmer, Jack King What is the vibe you hope to create at the farm?

Hallstedts: To feel welcomed (and not intimidated if they are picking for the first time); excited anticipation of being at “ground zero” of what it takes to get good fresh fruit to the market. We provide everything they need: buckets, instruction how to pick and bags in which to take home their fruit. We also try to teach them about how we follow environmental and groundwater safety rules and that we try to be good stewards of the land.

What varieties do you grow?

Hallstedts: Ten years ago, Phil chose eight varieties that were either awesome to eat fresh, and/or could handle shipping, as we would like to be able to start directshipping this summer. We grow Ebony Pearls, Attikas, Reginas, Sweethearts, Ulsters, Cavaliers, White Gold and Summit.

What advice do you give your U-Pickers?

Kings: One advantage to picking tarts at King Orchards is that we have a

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commercial pitting machine that removes the stone from the cherries you pick. This is important since 99% of the uses of tart cherries require pitted fruit. Once they are picked and pitted, take them home and can or freeze them within 24 hours. When you freeze them in 4-cup increments, this makes it very easy to use for recipes.

How is your whole family involved in the farm/orchard?

Hallstedts: Our kids were 13, 11 and 8 when we bought the property, and they have done everything from helping to get rocks out of freshly-tilled dirt to whitewashing the tree trunks with carwash mitts and white latex paint to protect the young tree trunks from the sun burning them (reflected from the snow). Our kids are now 22, 25 and 27; our youngest, who is getting a degree in mechanical engineering, comes home for breaks and helps to repair equipment. The other two live in Chicago, and come when they can, often with friends.

Kings: There are currently 10 immediate family members actively working on the farm. There’s a good chance you’ll run into one of them at either the market or while U-Picking!

Any last thoughts about why this is your calling?

Hallstedts: We have both worked in corporate America, and see this as our next season that we can participate in together.

Kings: There’s nothing more gratifying than seeing our customers who appreciate the orchards and our hard work.

it all began...

Presbyterian missionary Peter Dougherty planted cherry trees on Old Mission Peninsula in 1852 and boy, oh, boy did those cherry trees flourish. Copycat farmers saw similar success, and by the early 1900s, the cherry industry was firmly planted in the rolling hills along Lake Michigan—where our magical microclimate tempers the Arctic winds in winter and cools the orchards in summer.

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This pride-of-the-potluck uses King Orchards’ famous canned pie filling, and it just happens to be every family member’s and employee’s very favorite cherry recipe.

1 6-ounce package cherry-flavored gelatin 1 21-ounce can Montmorency Very Cherry Pie Filling (from kingorchards.com) 1 20-ounce can crushed pineapple 1 8-ounce package softened cream cheese 1

cup sour cream

N cup granulated sugar N cup chopped pecans or walnuts, optional

PREPARATION Put gelatin in a large mixing bowl. Dissolve gelatin with 2 cups boiling water; mix well.

Add cherry pie filling and pineapple with juice from the can. Mix well. Pour into 13x9x2 inch pan. Refrigerate until gelatin is set.

Mix cream cheese, sour cream and sugar until smooth.

Spread over salad after gelatin is set. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Sprinkle with nuts, if desired, just before serving.

Makes 12 large servings.

DAVE WEIDNER

Recipes

GEORGE WASHINGTON SALAD

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COCONUT CHERRY DAIQUIRI Traverse’s editor, Emily Tyra, grew up on a cherry farm in Omena. Here is her refreshing toast to the world’s most perfect fruit.

1

12-ounce can frozen limeade

12 ounces Malibu coconut rum (use the limeade can to measure) 4 cups frozen tart cherries (try kingorchards.com or friske.com) 2

bottles club soda, chilled

PREPARATION In a blender, mix undiluted limeade, rum and frozen tart cherries until smooth. Pour mixture into glasses and top with a splash of club soda to taste.

Serves six.

DAVE WEIDNER

RECIPES TO SHARE. Our favorite cherry dishes from over the years. MyNorth.com/verycherry

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I Pick, U-Pick, We All Pick

FRISKE ORCHARDS Offers a variety of delicious fruit and farm activities. Indulge in a slice of Grandma Friske’s pie.

10743 N US 31, Ellsworth, 231.599.2604, friske.com HALLSTEDT HOMESTEAD This first-generation farming family is offering eight varieties of delicious sweet cherries and guided U-pick tours. Check their Facebook page for what is currently being picked and hours.

8227 N Matheson Road, Northport, 317.440.9273, hhcherries.net KING ORCHARDS Offering fruit stands, farm markets and orchards, King Orchards operates hundreds of acres of local fruits, specializing in tart cherries used for making pie.

4620 N M-88, Central Lake, 231.544.6479; 986 US 31 S, Kewadin, 231.264.0715, kingorchards.com MCMANUS SOUTHVIEW ORCHARDS Tarts, sweets and fresh-baked turnovers.

313 Garfield Road, Traverse City, 231.946.5867, Facebook.com/McManusSouthviewOrchards NORTH STAR ORGANICS The Kobernik family welcomes you to their 20th year of pick-yourown organic sweet and tart cherries.

1139 Forrester Road, Frankfort, 231.352.4865, northstarorganics.com RENNIE ORCHARDS Family operated since 1938, Rennie Orchards grows 18 delightful varieties of cherries.

11221 Munro Road, Williamsburg, 231.264.8387, rennieorchards.com ROYAL FARMS With a distinct focus on cherries and their health benefits, Royal Farms is a great place to get your fix of Northern Michigan cherries.

Go wine tasting after you’re done in the orchard!

10445 N US 31, Ellsworth, 231.599.3222, royalfarmsinc.com PHOT OS HISTO COURTES Y R TADL.O Y COLLECT OF THE TRA ION VE RG AN D GRA . BROWSE RSE AREA D M NDTR AVERS ORE IMAG ISTRICT LIB ES RA E.PAST PERFE ONLINE AT RY, LOCAL CTON LINE.C LOCALHIST OM. ORY.

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SHOOKS FARM 104 years and still growing. Cherry pitter on site!

5833 Shooks Road, Central Lake, 231.544.6418, shooksfarms.weebly.com Emily Tyra is editor of Traverse. emily@traversemagazine.com // Andy Wakeman is a commercial and editorial photographer based in Traverse City. andywakeman.com // Dave Weidner is a free-range commercial and travel photographer. dweidnerphoto@gmail.com

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231.649.1122 bobweisbrodt.com

Sharon 231-933-1616

Renee 231-640-0777

521 Randolph Street, Traverse City www.SharonEdson.com

DOWNTOWN

FRANKFORT

TOUR

PETOSKEY SEPTEMBER 14, 2019

TRAVERSE CITY OCTOBER 19, 2019

Tickets On Sale Now! MyNorthTickets.com

2 MNRE

MyNorth.com

Real Estate NO RT H E R N MICH IG A N | 20 1 9

AT HOME UP NORTH...

Whether it’s on the big water, on a quiet lake, away from it all or in the heart of downtown, you can call Northern Michigan home (or your home away from home)! Peruse these pages for candid advice and premier Up North properties. You’ll also meet the real estate experts, builders and lenders ready to help you invest in the place of your dreams.

—Reported by Kandace Chapple, Elizabeth Edwards and Emily Tyra

MyNorth Real Estate is produced by MyNorthMedia. Advertising and editorial offices at: 125 Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. 231.941.8174, info@mynorth.com, MyNorth.com.

All rights reserved. Copyright 2019, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

MyNorth Real Estate | 2019

MNRE 3

Real Estate N O R TH ERN MI C HIG AN | 2019

NORTHERN MICHIGAN CUSTOM DESIGN

Beautiful shoreline lots starting at: $70,000

(Approx. 4 acres with 200’ shoreline) Land contracts available.

Will consider $799,000 for all 40 acres with 4,300’ of shoreline.

Stop by our office for directions or call to schedule a showing.

STEPHANIE M. HOVSEPIAN ARCHITECT

352 213 7939

SMHDESIGN2@AOL.COM

PROPERTY FEATURES: • Pristine water, ships, sunrises & sunsets.

• Private development: restrictions, easements, conditions.

• Near protected Scammon Cove and Big Shoal Beach • 3 lots with a driveway already in.

Drummond Island Realty Theila Bailey Gagliardi, Broker

906-493-5230

Email: drummondislandrealty@outlook.com 29919 E Channel Road, Drummond Island, MI 49726

www.drummondisland-realty.com

UptownTraverseCity.com

CUSTOM LUXURY RIVERFRONT TOWNHOME

Whiteford Associates, Inc

Downtown TC On the Boardman River Bay, River & Park Views Roof Top Deck Garden Roof 2 Car Garage Heated Drive Individual Mechanicals Private Elevator Walk-Out Basement 3848 sf

Architects | Contractors

CUSTOM LUXURY. BEYOND EXPECTATIONS. JUST 1 AVAILABLE. CALL 231-922-3000

4 MNRE

MyNorth.com

Real Estate NO RTH E R N MICH IG A N | 20 1 9

3

Ways to Make Your Getaway a Reality

There are a few different schools of thought when it comes to buying a dream vacation place, says Ann Porter of Coldwell Banker Schmidt Realtors in Traverse City.

“With families claiming they are busier than ever with the obligations of everyday life, vacation homebuyers are looking for ways they can maximize their investment to get the most joy and use out of the property they choose.” Some options from Porter to consider...

1. BUY A PLACE YOU CAN RENT OUT WHEN YOU ARE NOT THERE, SO IT PAYS FOR ITSELF. With continuously changing short-term rental ordinances, be sure to check township rules, but Airbnb, VRBO and local management firms make it really easy to recoup much of the costs of owning a second home or condo. Just keep a locked “owner’s closet” for your personal belongings and let someone else enjoy the beauty of Northern Michigan, too!

2. BUY A PLACE THAT WILL BE YOUR RETIREMENT HOME. Northern Michigan has been named by numerous magazines, programs and top ten lists as a great place to retire. Why not get to know where you are going to retire, but before you take the plunge? Do you dream of waking up looking at the bay after you say goodbye to your day job? Purchase that lakefront now, use it when you can, and update it when it’s time to retire.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

3. BUY A PLACE WITH SOME OF YOUR FAVORITE FRIENDS OR FAMILY. Most people say they do not spend nearly enough time with the people they care about. Consider investing in a vacation home with those you are closest to so you share those relaxing moments together. Work out a schedule so you have time to yourself as well as with your loved ones in your very own spot.

Ann Porter is in the top 5% of Coldwell Banker Agents Worldwide. She has made Northern Michigan her home since 1999.

PRO TIP If you are from another part of Michigan or from out of state and purchasing a second home, I highly recommend hiring a property manager to oversee the property during your absence. A property manager can also assist with a rental program should you choose to rent your property when not using it. (Bonus: Renting helps to offset taxes and carrying costs.)

—Kimberly Bork, Realtor/Partner, Venture Properties, Leland VenturePropertiesMI.com

MyNorth Real Estate | 2019

MNRE 5

Real Estate N O R TH ERN MI C HIG AN | 2019

Kimberly Creamer Realtor Associate Broker, GRI, CRS 231.620.6602 direct 231.922.7002 fax kcreamer@kw.com kimberlytvcsells.com

Each Office Is Independently Owned and Operated

LEELANAU COUNTY

4568 S. Bay Valley Estates MLS#1861604 3.3 Acres $999,000 MLS#1861605 8.4 Acres 1.1 Million LUXURY HOME with coveted location mid way between Traverse City and Suttons Bay in beautiful Leelanau County. Truly a children’s paradise with 3.3 acres (additional 5.19 acres available at 1.1 million for both parcels), inground 40 x 60 swimming pool with slide and hot tub with connecting waterfall, 250’ commercial zip line, game room with shuf�leboard and poker/roulette table and a magical forest with tree fort and playground equipment. 800’ shared frontage on West Bay and lake views enhance this lovely home.

Magni�icent oak curved stairways to upper level and lower �inished walkout level. Featuring 5 bedrooms, 3.5 bathrooms, 3 �ireplaces, two of�ices, game room, rec room, family room and 3 car attached garage.

Competitively priced for immediate sale.

MLS#1860438 215 W. Louisa $299,000

Private back street location in the village of Lake Leelanau for this charming, updated farmhouse with approximately ½ acre setting. Leland school district with affordable taxes! 1800+ sq.ft. with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, sun room, country eat-in kitchen, covered porches, newer hardwood �looring, two car detached garage.

LOOKING TO BUILD, BUY, OR REFI? We offer more than 50 mortgage solutions, including construction and special renovation loans.

Ryan Anderson

Tonia A. Anglin

Gail R. Chambers

Thomas A. Dilloway

Grandview Parkway 231.995.5548 RAnderson@ibcp.com NMLS ID: 1269856

Grandview Parkway 231.995.8710 TAnglin@ibcp.com NMLS ID: 401989

Grandview Parkway 231.995.8714 GChambers@ibcp.com NMLS ID: 445787

Grandview Parkway 231.995.8706 TDilloway@ibcp.com NMLS ID: 563752

Karen M. Foltz

Tom Klinefelter

Tammy Ranger

Howard Rose

Grandview Parkway 231.995.8717 KFoltz@ibcp.com NMLS ID: 800124

West Fourth Street 231.995.8712 TKlinefelter@ibcp.com NMLS ID: 564759

Eastern Sky Drive

Grandview Parkway

231.218.1161 TRanger@ibcp.com NMLS ID: 685286

231.590.5610 HRose@ibcp.com NMLS ID: 533605

VISIT US AT ONE OF OUR LOCAL BANKING LOCATIONS! Traverse City 333 W. Grandview Parkway, Traverse City, MI 49684

Suttons Bay 4011 Eastern Sky Drive, Traverse City, MI 49684

IndependentBank.com/mortgages 6 MNRE

MyNorth.com

93 West Fourth Street, Suite D, Suttons Bay, MI 49682

Equal housing lender. Member FDIC. Normal credit standards and restrictions apply. Property insurance and taxes required.

WALLOON LAKE

BAY HARBOR

LAKE CHARLEVOIX

TORCH LAKE

BURT LAKE

The Waterfront Specialist

WALLY KIDD Associate Broker/Owner

PRIME WALLOON FRONTAGE

UNIQUE PROPERTY ON 307 WATERFRONT FEET 6200 LAKE GROVE ROAD, • $2,950,000

QUINTESSENTIAL WALLOON

300+ FEET OF SHARED FRONTAGE IN WALLOON WEST 02375 EAGLE ISLAND ROAD, BOYNE CITY • $989,000

LUXURY IN BAY HARBOR

PENTHOUSE IN HEART OF MARINA DISTRICT 4200 MAIN STREET STE 500, BAY HARBOR • $1,290,000

BAY HARBOR VIEWS

VIEWS OF LITTLE TRAVERSE BAY FROM UPDATED CONDO 6349 QUARRY RIDGE, BAY HARBOR • $689,000

Representing Northern Michigan’s finest properties.

WALLYKIDD.COM

231-838-2700

wkidd@kiddleavy.com

325 EAST LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY

Real Estate N OR T H ERN MI C HIG AN | 2019

What’s Better than a Condo in the Village of Suttons Bay! Access to the Bay, easy walk into the Village, Leelanau Trail outside your door!

SUPerior - eaSy Location

New 2019 -Top of the line finishes throughout- granite, tile, appliances, nat/gas fireplace, built ins. Bay Views!

3 bedrooms, 2.5 baths, municpal water/sewer. The location couldn’t be better - Leelanau Trail in front, Suttons Bay amenities with fine restaurants & shopping, 700’ GT Bay frontage, marina (slips may be available), Pool, Tennis Court, Spa, Fitness, Landscaped. $329,000 (1856006)

480 Fifth Avenue, Manistee This Harbor Village 3-BR 2.5-BA condo checks all the boxes, and then some: end unit for lots of privacy, 2-car attached garage, main-floor master bedroom and laundry, 40-foot boat slip right out your door, VIEWS of the LIGHTHOUSE and LAKE MICHIGAN and the BIG MANISTEE RIVER and FREIGHTERS, gas fireplace, central air, deck to watch the sunsets and fireworks. And it all looks like new! Then, for icing on your cake, there’s the bonus indoor and outdoor pools and hot tubs, a fitness center and a fish-cleaning station. What more could you possibly want or need?

The walk-out lower level is unfinished so you can add anything else you’d like. It’s already plumbed for a bathroom. Association fee is $520/month.

Furnishings are negotiable. $468,500

Deer Path Unit with GaraGe

Beautifully updated with new flooring & fresh ideas, this 2 bedroom, 2 bath unit is stunning! Vaulted ceiling, abundant light, newer furnace, water heater, blinds, appliances & roof. NatGas, Central Air, municipal water/ sewer. Ingound pool, tennis courts, clubhouse, GORGEOUS beach on Suttons Bay, marina (run by owners, available to residents first). $279,000 (1861325)

Cory Beuerle

LakeMI.com

325 N. St. Joseph St., Suttons Bay 231-631-7653 corybeuerle@gmail.com

Call/Text Suzanne Riley 231.620.9561

Northland

NORTHERN MICHIGAN’S DESIGN + BUILD FIRM

BLACK BIRCH D E S I G N

+

B U I L D

BLACKBIRCHDESIGNBUILD.COM 8 MNRE

MyNorth.com

Real Estate NO RT H E R N MICH IG A N | 20 1 9

COLDWELL BANKER SCHMIDT’S NEW DIGS

Ski Out Your Door...

LEFT PHOTO BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI // RIGHT PHOTO BY PETER FISHER

We asked Realtor Joan O’Neill, RSPS, SRS (the RSPS stands for “resort and second properties specialist”) at Crystal Mountain Realty to share the inside scoop on why to consider ski resort living. Turns out this topic hits very close to home ... in the best way!

In Northern Michigan and particularly at resorts, families often gather and vacation together. If looking for a vacation home that you’ll also rent out when not enjoying it yourself, look for something with at least three bedrooms. Think of needing to sleep at least two adult couples comfortably, plus multiple kids. Other things to look for? Walkability to resort or downtown amenities, dining and living areas that can seat as many folks as the home can sleep, a room or closet where you can stash away your personal items when in use by a renter and ample parking. Look for listings that mention being “turnkey” as that usually means that most or all of the furnishings are included. And, homes at resorts with ski facilities also come with the added benefit of a more balanced, year-round income stream.

I have a selfish plan for my family’s future. Right now, while my boys are young, we enjoy living in Lake Ann, which in itself is a great place to raise a family.

But as my husband and I become empty nesters, my plan is to relocate to a resort setting — the Mountain Woods neighborhood at Crystal Mountain, to be specific.

Most Northern Michigan resorts offer the perfect mix of amenities for an active lifestyle, no matter what your pace. This particular neighborhood at Crystal, with its towering hardwoods and rolling terrain, just says Northern Michigan to me, and has the added benefit of the ski hills, pools, a fitness center and hiking and biking trails on property. Plus—and here’s the selfish part—a home at such a place almost guarantees my kids and someday their families, will visit me. Often.

Joan O’Neill, crystalmountainrealty.com

The little real estate office long located where M22 doglegs through Glen Arbor, began its life in the 1950s as a flat-roofed, powder-blue log cabin. Two decades later, thenowners Peppler Realty faced the exterior in brick, embellished with post-and-beam, and topped it with a cedar shake mansard roof—big style for a tiny town where the fire station still blew a noon whistle and the Fourth of July parade was four cars long. But when the Schmidt family acquired the property in 2014, they knew a do-over was long overdue.

Architect Jon Walter was brought in to design a building, that as Mike Schmidt, President of Coldwell Banker Schmidt says, would fit into the town’s historic character and reflect the coastal properties the company represents. Beyond that, he adds: “We really wanted to support Glen Arbor.”

Finished in June, the new office is clad in real cedar shingles, trimmed in white, and outfitted with dormers, stylized eave brackets and a handsome transom-topped front door—elements that make it feel as timeless as they do fresh. A square cupola that mirrors a similar cupola on Anderson’s Market across the street succeeds in elevating the M22 intersection to the feel of an old-fashioned town square. “It’s better than I even imagined,” says Schmidt. Folks around Glen Arbor couldn’t agree more.—Elizabeth Edwards

MyNorth Real Estate | 2019

MNRE 9

Real Estate N OR TH ERN MI CHIG AN | 2019

For information on all listings: www.AnnPorterTC.com West Side Location

This 4 bedroom, 3 bath spacious ranch is located just minutes from downtown Traverse City! Tucked away in a private neighborhood setting overlooking beautiful woods. The spacious lower level is the perfect guest suite, all freshly carpeted and painted. Close to YMCA and walking trails at The Commons. MLS 1860920

3706 Woodside | $359,900!

West Side Location

Downtown Gem

“UP NORTH” LIVING AT I T S B E S T !

Completely renovated home offers a gourmet kitchen with a movable island, Cherrywood floors, spacious main floor master suite, finished walk out lower level with loads of entertaining space complete with built in buffet. Large bedrooms and a bonus room on the upper level complete this 3 bedroom 3.5 bath home situated on almost 3 acres, 10 minutes from downtown TC! MLS 1853591

5200 Hidden Glen | $459,000!

Located a block from Munson, this recently renovated home offers modern conveniences of large rooms, an open layout, and main floor laundry paired with the character of a turn of the century home such as hardwood floors, trim and a butlers pantry. The upper floor features 3 large bedrooms, a full bath, and extra closet space. The new deck, which is perfect for entertaining. MLS 1859131

217 South Spruce St. | $375,000!

Ann Porter ASSOCIATE BROKER

Now is the time ...

M A K E YO U R D R E A M C O M E T R U E for Waterfront Ownership!

Tamarack Lodge Specializing in Fractional Ownership Real Estate. Call or stop by today!

Ann@AnnPorterTC.com MEMBER SCHMIDT FAMILY OF COMPANIES

231.944.4959

231-938-3950 or visit w w w. Ta m a ra c k Lod geTC. c om Call to find out more

Find detailed listing information at

www.AnnPorterTC.com 402 E. Front St. | Traverse City, MI 49686

9295

MAJESTIC RIDGE TRAVERSE CITY | MI

4 bed

4 baths

Stunning West Bay Views in a gorgeous custom home Beautiful custom 2 story fireplace, VIEWS from every room

9958

CENTER ROAD

TRAVERSE CITY | MI

4 bed

3 baths Own a piece of the Old Mission Dream

Guest Cottage | Beautiful 373’ West Bay Frontage Gorgeous Sunset Views

MOLLY BUTTLEMAN CELL | 231.463.6969 EMAIL | mbuttleman@gmail.com

10 MNRE

MyNorth.com

SCHMIDT REALTORS 522 E. Front Street | Traverse City, MI 49686

MyNorth Real Estate | 2019

MNRE 11

MARKHAGAN.COM PENINSULA DRIVE

4BD/5.5BA | 5,048 sqft home on 162’ of private Grand Traverse Bay frontage

S W BAY SHORE DRIVE

2BD/3.5BA | 3,459 sqft penthouse condo on 466’ of shared Grand Traverse Bay frontage

UNION STREET

Turn-key restaurant with upstairs luxury condo. Condo also available separately

E SILVER LAKE ROAD 6BD/4.5BA | 6,605 sqft home on 135’ of private Silver Lake frontage

S MANITOU TRAIL 5BD/3.5BA | 3,368 sqft home on 150’ of private Lake Michigan frontage

EDGEWOOD AVENUE 5BD/5BA | 4,440 sqft home on 110’ of private Long Lake frontage

MAITLAND ROAD 4BD/4BA | 5,183 sqft home on 125’ of private West GT Bay frontage

TREGA ISLAND Privately-owned 4 acre island boasts 1,735’ of private Silver Lake frontage

SIXTH STREET 3BD/2.5BA | 3,784 sqft home in the heart of downtown Traverse City

PENINSULAR SHORES 4BD/3BA | 3,441 sqft home on 120’ of private Duck Lake frontage

RIVER DRIVE 3BD/3BA | 3,615 sqft home on 440’ of private Boardman River frontage

JOY ROAD 3BD/2.5BA | 1,800 sqft home with 120 acres of farmland & outbuildings

WADSWORTH STREET 4BD/1.5BA | 3,262 sqft Victorian home in the heart of downtown Traverse City

ROMAN DRIVE 3BA/2BA | 2,246 sqft home with 101’ of private Silver Lake frontage

TIMBER FLATS 3BD/2BA | 1,450+ sqft 2 under construction homes in new Kingsley development

MARK HAGAN (231) 929-7985 | (231) 922-2396 Info@markhagan.com | 402 E Front Street Traverse City, MI 49686

Real Estate NO RTH E R N MICH IG A N | 20 1 9

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Northern Michigan is Awesome (shhhhh!)

Yeah, the secret’s out.

America is having its aha moment about our area, says Wally Kidd, Associate Broker and Partner at Kidd & Leavy Real Estate in Petoskey. He credits Pure Michigan ads running on both coasts and the Good Morning America vote for the Most Beautiful Place in America as the sparks. Oh, and our beautiful fresh water.

Says Kidd: “Word of mouth has spread to places like Texas, New York and California. And people want to see firsthand what they’ve heard so much about. They’ll come up with extended family and friends and rent a place for a couple days … and a vast majority of them will return again. Word is spreading about Michigan!”

But, Kidd adds, Northern Michigan is still the land of real estate opportunities. Here, Kidd and other top-producing real estate professionals reveal the diverse hidden gems this area has to offer.

WATERFRONT WITHIN REACH Wherever I vacation, I always check on the cost of real estate.

As far as paradises compare, I think ours is a real value. You can find pretty special waterfront deals here, and they are a bit more affordable. I’m a big fan of all the waterfront properties in Grand Traverse County, but as for undiscovered gems, in particular Arbutus Lake. Arbutus Lake is actually a string of five winding lakes—residents identify them by number. I was just out there looking at a property for a client and was struck by how tranquil and how beautiful it is. This particular property used to be a boys’ camp—and being there is like going back in time. Also, many know we had a record year for real estate in 2016. Business thrived. Based on our numbers as of June 2019, this year is on pace to do that again. You hear in the news that the real estate market is down, but that is not the case for us.

—Mark Hagan of Coldwell Banker Schmidt is the 2018 #1 selling Realtor in the Traverse Area Association of Realtors. markhagan.com

MyNorth Real Estate | 2019

MNRE 13

Real Estate N O R TH ERN MI C HIG AN | 2019

MANISTEE COUNTY’S MARVELS

TAKE ME TO THE RIVER

We definitely have WATER! Manistee County actually has three ports: Manistee Lake, Portage Lake and Arcadia Lake.

Bring your large boats and channel out from your home or condo to Lake Michigan. And our prices are some of the best around. For some reason, we are still a hidden gem. To be able to walk out your door to the sandy beachfront for under $600,000 seems crazy—but we have it! And views galore of freighters coming in off Lake Michigan into the Big Manistee River—a sight everyone needs to witness at least once. Even after living here for 25 years, I still stumble on some incredibly special locations—back along the Manistee River trails there are overlooks beyond belief. And do you really know how special it is to have the North Country Trail right out our back door? Again, if you haven’t experienced it yet, you definitely want to add that to this summer’s to-do list.

—Suzanne Riley, Owner/Broker of CENTURY 21 Boardwalk, Manistee/Onekama, c21boardwalk.com

Let the Betsie River be your year-round “basecamp” to enjoy Northern Michigan. You will fall in love with the privacy, the endless wildlife and the quiet, peaceful surroundings. Look for non-bluff Betsie River frontage and you can literally kayak or canoe right outside your door. The wildlife enjoys calling this property home also—there are endless salmon swimming in the river, beautiful bald eagles soaring above, deer and turkey roaming the land, and most of all, peaceful quiet. The Natural Rivers Act protects the natural beauty of the Betsie River and creates value for those who truly appreciate and enjoy nature, wildlife, and outdoor recreation.

—Jon Zickert, Lead Realtor, The Jon Zickert Group at Real Estate One, Beulah, jonzickert.com

At the tip of the mitt, Douglas Lake is a very affordable and wonderful lake. It’s still a little remote—yet you are not far from Harbor Springs, Cheboygan and Indian River—and because the University of Michigan owns a significant amount for their research and teaching facility, much of the southern shoreline remains undeveloped and in its original condition.

—Wally Kidd, Associate Broker and Partner at Kidd & Leavy Real Estate in Petoskey, wallykidd.com

14 MNRE

MyNorth.com

Leland, Michigan, is a dream coastal town, known for its charming fishing village vibe. It wows visitors, summer residents and full-time locals with its unmatched beaches. But many might not know about its excellent education opportunities. Leland Public School houses grades K-12 in one building, and prides itself on nurturing children as they evolve in school and the community. LPS is an International Baccalaureate World School for kindergarten through 10th grade and is well known for its outstanding academics and extracurricular activities. Leland also provides life-long learning with its library, the Leelanau Historical Society Museum and the Leelanau Community Cultural Center (the Old Art Building)—all of which are neighbored on the picturesque Leland River.

—Kimberly Bork, Realtor/Partner, Venture Properties, Leland, VenturePropertiesMI.com

PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

A FIND ON THE FRINGE

STELLAR SMALL-TOWN SCHOOLS

Real Estate NO RT H E R N MICH IG A N | 20 1 9

YOUR LOCAL MORTGAGE EXPERTS

As a direct lender, we process, underwrite, and fund all of our loans

AS A DIRECT LENDER, WE PROCESS, UNDERWRITE, AND FUND ALL OF OUR LOANS.

MANY LOAN TYPES AVAILABLE Conventional loans • FHA/ VA/ RD loans Refinance/ Cash out • Second homes/ Investments Zero-down loans • Low down loans Call or text Call construction or text Call or text Marty Siklich 231.932.9486

Savannah Siklich 231.645.0057 MortgageUpNorth.com

MichaelHanson.gogsf.com

NMLS #137305

NMLS #1711574

NMLS #1583870

MortgageTraverseCity.com

Michael Hanson 231.735.1313

Savannah Siklich 231.645.0057

Marty Siklich 231.932.9486

This is not an offer to make a loan or to make a loan on any particular terms. All loan applicants must qualify under MortgageUpNorth.com MortgageTraverseCity.com the underwriting requirements and satisfy all contingencies of loan approval.

GSF Mortgage Corp. NMLS# 1018.

NMLS #1711574 NMLSDrive #137305 15430 W. Capitol | Brookfield, WI 53005. Equal Housing Lender.

3409 Veterans Drive, Suite 2

3409 Veterans Drive, Suite 2

|

| Traverse City, MI 49684

Traverse City, MI 49684

This is not an offer to make a loan or to make a loan on any particular terms. All loan applicants must qualify under the underwriting requirements and satisfy all contingencies of loan approval. GSF Mortgage Corp. NMLS# 1018. 15430 W. Capitol Drive | Brookfield, WI 53005. Equal Housing Lender.

of Elk Rapids 614 US 31 S., PO Box 36, Elk Rapids, MI 49629

TORCH LAKE 3.63 ACRE ESTATE

PHOTO BY TESS CROWLEY

THE REAL REASON PEOPLE I N V E S T I N R E A L E S TAT E When Petoskey-based Wally Kidd of Kidd & Leavy Real Estate guides buyers to their special slice of the North, the real asset ends up as much about family tradition as it is the property itself. “Northern Michigan becomes such a special place in families’ lives, it’s a grounding force. As the traditional family grows and expands, this is the place they love to come home to (versus perhaps a home in Cincinnati or Indianapolis).

Family members are busy and working hard in every aspect of their lives; this is a place to escape a little bit. People ask, ‘How am I going to see my kids, how will I keep the family together, how will we all meet for holidays?’ I talk to so many families whose adult kids can’t wait to take their two weeks’ vacation in Northern Michigan. Everyone needs a place for the things that matter most: lifelong memories, cherished relationships and family traditions.” wallykidd.com

FOR THOSE WHO DEMAND THE HIGHEST STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE generations of Old World Craftsmanship and the refined elegance of Restoration Hardware brand high-end lighting fixtures, bathroom vanities with natural stone counter tops and plumbing fixtures, this 6 bed, 7 bath TORCH LAKE estate should exceed your expectations. MLS 1859189. $2,350,000.

Christian Nelson Associate Broker O: 231.264.5400 | C: 231.534.4512 christian@remaxelkrapids.com • christiannelson.remax-michigan.com MyNorth Real Estate | 2019

MNRE 15

Real Estate N O R TH ERN MI C HIG AN | 2019

Graham

REAL ESTATE

#1 in Residential Sales & Listings in the Harbor Springs Area 231.526.6251 • grahamre.com • 198 E. Main Street, Harbor Springs, MI 49740

3303 Lake Shore Drive • Harbor Springs

275 E. Bay Street • Harbor Springs

7,156 SQ. FT. • 5 BEDROOMS • 7 BATHS

4,899 SQ. FT. • 6 BEDROOMS • 6 BATHS

Spectacular lakefront home with a wonderful Lake Michigan beach, very large decks and ample privacy. Cathedral ceilings, four fireplaces, plus a deck for every bedroom. Two additional garages with upstairs apartments. Beautiful waterfront setting - a must see to be appreciated!

Listed at $2,490,000 • MLS #458578

A brand new urban cottage with extraordinary downtown location and amazing harbor views. Over 6,700 square feet of high-quality indoor/ outdoor living space including a chef’s kitchen, two covered porches, two patios and roof-top deck with outdoor kitchen and fireplace.

Listed at $4,500,000 • MLS #456460

Listed by Tom Graham & Nate Graham • nate@grahamre.com

Listed by Andrew Bowman • abowman@grahamre.com

traverse-mag-GRE-060319.indd 1 16 MNRE MyNorth.com

6/4/19 10:42 AM

Home Construction Underway July 2019

44NORTH Elegant Living With Northern Michigan Style

Welcome to Traverse City’s newest neighborhood For best selection and pricing call Mark Johnson directly at 231.620.1821 Mark@C21Northland.com

44NorthTC.com

Century 21 Northland 241 E. State Street Traverse City, MI 49684 MyNorth Real Estate | 2019

MNRE 17

Welcome Home! Your Dream Starts Here!

Discover Your Legacy Property Here 231.649.6797 www.LeelanauLegacy.com

700 FEET OF SHARED FRONTAGE, 4600 SQUARE FEET OF STUNNING PANORAMIC VIEWS OF LAKE MICHIGAN LUXURY LIVING SPACE, AND SPECTACULAR SUNSET VIEWS! FOR YOUR FOREVER HOME! 11765 SNOWFIELD COURT, 260 FEET OF FRONTAGE, BAY HARBOR CLUB DRIVE TRAVERSE CITY, MI 49686 KEWADIN, MI 49648 Welcome to your new home in this “Land of Delight” Own your own estate in the heart of Leelanau CounMLS 1859613 Wake up to this view every morning with this cusYou will have 200 feet of walkable beach. This home 1855805 ty. With 70 acres The land is diverse as your dreams. tom built master piece. MLS This will be your 3000 sq ft 3 bedroom 4 bath home right on Lake Leelanau.

No detail was left to chance.

Call Tom Alfen - 231.649.6797

This is a quality built 3 bedroom 3 bath home with a finished walk out basement. Plus a 2 story steel building of over 3000 sq ft complete with hoist, crane, air lines, heated w/ office, bathroom.

Call Tom Alfen - 231.649.6797

has 3 bedrooms 2 baths with an open floor plan, spacious kitchen, great room that includes a wood-burning fireplace that will heat the entire home, dining room with slider to lakeside deck, large bedrooms, huge private master suite, laundry/mud room connects to the 2-car attached garage.

Call Tom Alfen - 231.649.6797

SUNSETS, SANDY SHORE, AND PROVEN INCOME OWN A PIECE OF HISTORY FOR INCOME OR YOUR POTENTIAL—WHAT MORE COULD YOU ASK FOR? OWN ENJOYMENT! E SHORE DRIVE 800 COTTAGEVIEW DRIVE, #317The Village on Front Street is Lake Ann’s4431 Build your own leelanau legacy with this 2.5 acre newest Your dream home belongs here! This picturesque KALKASKA, property. This vacant land is in aCITY, primeMI location beresidential development. These beautiful homes lot MI with49646 stunning panoramic views of beautiful TRAVERSE 49684 ing only minutes from Leland! Private frontage on boast 2 beds and 2.5 baths, custom finish options, lake Michigan is the ideal setting for your first MLS 1855828 the highly sought after north end of Lake Leelanau such as hand-crafted barn doors, rustic, reclaimed home or your forever home! Boasting 260 feet of and this will give you 159 feet of it. This land is a must see! Oh yeah and you have stunning Lake Michigan access .

Call Tom Alfen - 231.649.6797

mantle pieces, welcoming bedrooms with spacious walk-in closets, complete with built-in storage systems. A great place to relax after a long day.

Holly Hack - 231.492.0072

YOUR HOME SOLD OR WE’LL BUY IT! * TO DISCUSS THE SALE OF YOUR HOME CALL AND START PACKING! *

frontage and 1.32 acre the lot size offers you the opportunity to build a comfortably sized home without forsaking privacy. The location cannot be beat. Come see it, fall in love, make an offer, build your home! Call Holly Hack - 231.492.0072

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Agent and seller must agree on price and possession date.

www.ReichardandHack.com 13919 S WEST BAY SHORE DRIVE, STE 104, TRAVERSE CITY, MI 49684 13919 S WEST BAY SHORE DRIVE, SUITE 104, TRAVERSE CITY, MI 49684

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MyNorth Real Estate | 2019

MNRE 19

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UNDER CONSTRUCTION CO N STRUCTION Cus t om f inis hed unit s feat ure open f loor plan and inc lud e c overed parking and s t or age uni t.

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Dining RESTAURANT GUIDE | LOCAL TABLE | DRINKS

TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

FRESH FISH GATES AU SABLE LODGE 471 STEPHAN BRIDGE ROAD, GRAYLING | 989.348.8462

GATES AU SABLE LODGE, GRAYLING

Okay, this stretch of the Au Sable is catch and release only so that speckled brown trout that just leapt from the river fifty feet from your table is safe. In the kitchen, however, a less fortunate cousin in the hands of Chef Matt Haley is stuffed with aromatics, wrapped in bacon, seared crisp and splashed with lemon butter as Gates Lodge’s signature Trout Hemingway.

Mild fleshed rainbow trout also end up smoked and served beside hash, blackened and flaked into tortillas with guacamole and cilantro lime slaw or slathered with fiery shrimp creole sauce and served with braised greens.

Call ahead as Gates’ small dining room is full every night with fly fishermen trading lies and foodies commuting from all compass points to delight in inventive riparian cuisine. With July waters beckoning, read on this month as we find delicious local fish in the market and on the table.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL '19

89

THE GREY GABLES INN RESTAURANT A Part of Charlevoix’s Heritage Since 1936

Celebrating 25 Years

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Serving Dinner • Cocktails • Sushi Menu Live Entertainment • Piano Bar Reservations Welcome Featuring SEA TO TABLE concept all Fall!

Banquet & Catering Facilities THE GREYRoom GABLES INN RESTAURANT

b

A Part of Charlevoix’s Heritage Since 1936

Serving Dinner • Cocktails • Sushi Menu • Live Piano Bar • Entertainment on Weekends Reservations Welcome • Banquet Room & Catering Facilities • Now Taking Holiday Reservations 308 BELVEDERE AVENUE • CHARLEVOIX, MICHIGAN 308 BELVEDERE AVENUE • CHARLEVOIX, MICHIGAN • 231.547.9261 • WWW.GREYGABLESINN.COM

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fish | dining

IN THE MARKET TREATY FISH COMPANY 3400 WEST BAYSHORE DRIVE, PESHAWBESTOWN | 231.620.5114 Find Ed and Cindi Johns at the Sarah Hardy Farmers Market for meticulously handled whitefish and lake trout they catch daily in West Bay.

JOHN CROSS FISHERIES 209 BELVEDERE AVENUE, CHARLEVOIX | 231.547.2532 Watch your dinner unloaded dockside at Charlevoix’s generational family fishery.

GUSTAFSON’S SMOKED FISH 4467 US-2, MORAN | 906.292.5424 Ask any Yooper where to find smoked fish and he’ll point you toward Gustafson’s just a short commute west of St. Ignace on US 2.

ON THE TABLE BLU 5705 SOUTH LAKE STREET, GLEN ARBOR | 231.334.2530 Chef Randy Chamberlin honors Lake Michigan’s spotted bounty with crushed pecans and lemon beurre blanc in his Lake Trout Pecandine.

WEST END TAVERN 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DRIVE, TRAVERSE CITY | 231.943.2922 Watch the waves lap while eating crispy walleye, crunchy slaw and spicy pickles on an airy brioche bun.

THE GANGPLANK

PHOTOS BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

100 SOUTH STATE STREET, ST. IGNACE | 906.643.1500 Lake Superior whitefish makes a short commute south to be flash fried and served up in The Gangplank’s coveted fish tacos.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL '19

91

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restaurant guide | dining

RESTAURANT GUIDE Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants at MyNorth.com/Restaurants

Mulligan’s Inviting pub with steamed littleneck clams, shrimp-topped burgers and pasta. LD • BAR • $–$$ 320 NORTH MAIN ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.627.2459

Original Pancake House Crepes, waffles, pancakes, omelettes, egg specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$ 840 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.2770

Vintage Chophouse/ Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$

INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlife-decorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas. LD • BAR • $-$$ 4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN

| WATER VIEW

RIVER, 231.238.9471

BLD | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER BAR | ALCOHOL SERVED

MACKINAC ISLAND & MACKINAW CITY

$ | ENTRÉES INDER $10

Amigo Burrito Mexican Grill Burritos, tacos and quesadillas made to order. Dine in or carry out. Located in Murray Hotel’s lobby. LD • $ 7260 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND,

$$ | $10-20 $$$ | ABOVE $20

906.847.8010

Mackinac Island Mackinaw City Pellston Harbor Springs Bay Harbor Petoskey

Cannonball Drive In Burgers, sandwiches, pizza, ice cream, fried pickles and more. Dine inside or out. Located at historic British Landing. BBQ hayrides peak season, call for reservations. Group meals and hayrides available. LD • $ 7641 BRITISH LANDING RD., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0932

Carriage House at Hotel Iroquois Old-World charm, piano bar. Regional menu: whitefish, filet mignon and seafood. BLD • BAR • $$$ MAIN ST. ON THE WATER, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3321

Cawthorne’s Village Inn Planked whitefish, desserts.

Gaylord

BLD • BAR • $$ 1384 HOBAN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3542

Chuckwagon Mackinac Island’s quintessential diner. BL • Traverse City

Frankfort

Cadillac

Manistee

PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/ BRUTUS/CHEBOYGAN/ INDIAN RIVER/ODEN The Boat House Seafood-centric, überfresh cuisine with contemporary presentation in a 1940s boathouse right on the Cheboygan River. D • BAR • $-$$ 106 PINE ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.627.4316

Black Mountain Lodge Hikers on Black Mountain love settling in post-walkabout for the glorious view of East Twin Lake and freshly prepared trout, perch, quail, lobster and homemade bread with honey-walnut butter.

D • BAR $$-$$$ 10621 TWIN LAKES RD., CHEBOYGAN, 231.625.9322

Brutus Camp Deli Breakfast spot famous for its homemade food, big portions and rustic décor. BL • $ 4086 US31, BRUTUS, 231.529.2222

Dutch Oven Café and Deli French toast and farmers omelet stratas, sandwiches on famous homemade bread. BL • $ 7611 U.S. 31, ALANSON, 231.548.2231

Fox & Rose

Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on the Bay Harbor marina. B • $ 4165 MAIN STREET, BAY HARBOR, 231.439.9989

Mighty Mac Hamburgers Breakfast sandwiches, burgers, hot dogs, chicken sandwiches and more. Indoor seating or carryout. BL • $ 7463 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8039 Millie’s on Main Charming soda fountain and grill. LD • $ 7296 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9901

Mission Point Resort Bistro on the Greens— LD • BAR • $ The Round Island Bar & Grill—Burgers and sandwiches LD • BAR • $ Chianti—upscale, affordable Italian.

Lakeside Marketplace—gourmet pizzas and hot dogs BLD • $$-$$$ 1 LAKESHORE DRIVE, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3312

Mr. B’s Pizza, coney dogs, soft-serve ice cream and more overlooking the Straits. L • $ 7367 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3530

Murray Hotel Breakfast buffet of scrambled eggs, homestyle potatoes, sausage, bacon and more. B • $ 7260 MAIN

ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 855.696.8772

Mustang Lounge Traditional bar grub, burgers, dogs, pizza and an array of great fried munchies. BL • BAR • $-$$ 8 ASTOR ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9916

Pancake House Breakfast sandwiches, omelets, Plath smoked meats, waffles, pancakes, deli sandwiches and more. BL • $ 102 MAIN ST., 906.847.3829 The Pink Pony Bar & Grill The island’s entertainment oasis—loud, bustling, with pastas and steaks. LD • Smokey Jose's Water-side restaurant where BBQ and bourbon meet tacos & tequila. LD • BAR • $-$$ 7263 MAIN

8593 CUDAHY CIRCLE, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3355

Dog House Hot dogs, nachos, chips and more. Picnic tables under big umbrellas. Located at Windermere Point on the Straits of Mackinac. LD • $ 7498 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.6586

Feedbag Donuts made daily. Hot dogs, brats and more.

Located near the Surrey Hills Carriage Museum. BL • $

CADOTTE AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3593

Gate House Casual inside and outside eating with live music and televisions. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1547 CADOTTE AVENUE, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3772

Goodfellows Italian Chop House Fun Italian cuisine in a comfortable atmosphere. Classic and tasty sandwiches, pastas, pizzas, steaks and seafood. BLD • BAR • $$$ 1395 HOBAN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0270

Grand Hotel Main Dining Room—coat and tie for gentlemen, dresses or pantsuits for ladies, for full breakfast, lunch buffet and 5-course dinner. BLD • BAR • $$$ 286 GRAND AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 800.33-GRAND

Horn’s Gaslight Bar Southwestern cuisine. LD • BAR • $ 7300 MAIN ST., 906.847.6154

Island House 1852 Grill Room—Prime rib, chicken, seafood, veal. BD • BAR Ice House BBQ—casual dining, burgers, gourmet sandwiches, sweet potato fries and creative martinis. LD • BAR • $$ 6966 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND,

231.625.2919

STAR LINE DOCK, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9911

BAR • $$ MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3341

The Greenside Grille at Indian River Golf Club Serving a complete menu and Happy Hour offerings overlooking the 9th hole. LD • BAR • $–$$$ 3301 CHIPPEWA BEACH RD., Hack-Ma-Tack Inn Classic 1894-era hunting and fishing lodge on the Cheboygan River near Mullett Lake specializes in steaks and seafood. Dock space and overnight slips. LD • BAR • $-$$ 8131 BEEBE RD., CHEBOYGAN,

Mary’s Bistro Well-rounded menu of bistro fare and the most taps on the island. LD • BAR • $-$$ MAIN ST. AT

Cudahy Chophouse Steaks, chops and fresh fish at this restaurant in Stonecliff Manor tucked away in the woods up island. Reservations recommended. D • BAR • $$-$$$

Huron Street Pub & Grill Classic pub food. LD • BAR • $-$$ 7304 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8255

INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.8515

ISLAND, 855.696.8772

$ 7400 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0019

Steaks, fish, seafood. LD • BAR • $$$ 795

FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.752.2122

Lucky Bean Coffee House Fresh pastries and coffee all day. $ 7383 MARKET ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 248.342.2988 Mama LaRosa’s Pizza Buffet Pizza buffet with salad bar.

Located in the Murray Hotel. LD • $ 7260 MAIN ST., MACKINAC

906.847.3347

Island Slice Pizzeria, bakery and ice cream shop. Located at the Horse Corral Mall. LD • $ 7248 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8100

Jockey Club at the Grand Stand Located on the first tee of The Jewel golf course. Sandwiches, salads, full dinner menu. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ GRAND AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND,

ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0466

Seabiscuit Café Cozy exposed-brick walled pub in a restored 1880s bank building. Sip a brew and dine on a wonderfully eclectic menu. LD • BAR • $-$$ MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3611

Sushi Grand Mackinac Island’s first and only sushi restaurant opens this year. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1547 CADOTTE AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906. 847.3772

Tea Room at Fort Mackinac Refreshments with a view of the harbor and Straits of Mackinac. BL • BAR • $ INSIDE FORT MACKINAC, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3331

Yankee Rebel Tavern Warm, casual restaurant highlighting updated renditions of American culinary classics in a rustic, colonial setting. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 ASTOR ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.6249

Woods Elegant mansion in the island’s interior that offers casual fine dining, extensive wine list and duck pin bowling. LD • BAR • $$$ 8655 CUDAHY CIR., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3699

Audie’s Chippewa Room—Whitefish prepared six ways

by Chef Nicklaus Jaggi along with seasonal Michigan fare.

D • BAR • $$ The Family Room—Northwoodsy ambience, Formica tabletops. BLD • BAR • $$ 314 N. NICOLET, MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.5744

Darrow’s Family Restaurant 50s-era classic eatery open seasonally with fresh fish, roast pork and beef, skyhigh pies, and other wholesome family fare. LD • $-$$ 301 LOUVIGNY, MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.551

Nonna Lisa’s Italian Ristorante Stromboli, chicken parmesan, rosemary salmon, Nutella pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 312 S. HURON, MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.7901

Scalawags Whitefish & Chips Family restaurant with a nautical atmosphere features local whitefish, chowder and, of course, chips. LD • BAR • $ 226 E. CENTRAL, MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.7777

906.847.3331

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL '19

93

Antiquities B A R N Serving Northern Michigan for over 30 Years

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Domes & Traditional

Patio Awnings

Commercial

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www.advancedawnings.net 231-938-2233 or 800-953-2288 94

MyNorth.com

restaurant guide | dining

CROSS VILLAGE/HARBOR SPRINGS/ PELLSTON/PETOSKEY American Spoon Café Gleaming black-and-white full-service cafe. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 413 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7004

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more.

Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. LD • BAR $-$$$ 04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY, 231.753.2221

The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes, home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. BL • $ 423 MICHIGAN ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.5583

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients. Seminole Pub. BLD • BAR • $–$$ 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3000

Chandler’s Brick-walled and -floored dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to savor this art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101 Cormack’s Deli Award-winning deli featuring fabulous sandwiches, soups and bbq, open Mon.-Fri. 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. BL • $ 2569 CHARLEVOIX AVE., PETOSKEY, 231.347.7570 Dam Site Inn With views of the Maple River, this classic family dining establishment offers a bit of everything plus all-you-can-eat chicken dinners. D • BAR • $$$$$ 6705 WOODLAND RD., PELLSTON, 231.539.8851

The Depot Club & Restaurant Sophisticated menu including miso oven-braised lamb shanks and char-grilled tenderloin medallions with classic cognac sauce and wild mushrooms. D • WED. - SAT. 111 W. BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4233

Douglas Lake Bar & Steakhouse Up North ambience, two fireplaces and a view of the lake pair with big steaks, whitefish, ribs and lamb. D • BAR • $$$ 7314 DOUGLAS LAKE RD., PELLSTON, 539.8588

Populace Coffee Artisan coffee and tea bar serving European-style pastries made on site and seasonally inspired lunch offerings. BL • BAR • $ 207 HOWARD ST., PETO-

Rusty Saw Smokehouse traditional barbecue. LD • $$ 3459 US31, BRUTUS, 231. 529.6574

Mim’s Mediterranean Grill A sunny hangout with homemade falafel, kebabs, spinach pie, saganaki and other Greek delights. LD • $-$$ 1823 U.S. 31 NORTH, PETOSKEY,

PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD

BLD • $ 250 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6041

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY,

SPRINGS, 231.242.4777

231.348.9994

• BAR • $-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. D, SUN. BRUNCH • BAR • $$-$$$ 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY, 877.442.6464

Old World Cafe European-style breakfast and lunch. BL •

31, PELLSTON, 231.539.8588

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. LD • $ 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250 Legs Inn Timber and driftwood landmark set on a bluff above Lake Michigan that has been serving Polish and American specialties for the better part of a century.

Garden dining. Entertainment. LD • BAR 6425 LAKE SHORE DR. (M-119), CROSS VILLAGE, 231. 526.2281

ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

NE W Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American

cuisine with global wine and craft cocktail bar. D • BAR • $$ 129 EAST BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.412.6032

Mackinaw City

Petoskey Charlevoix Ellsworth

Frankfort

Traverse City

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2967

Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR • $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL

Gaylord

Elk Rapids

• BAR • $$-$$$ 230 N US 31, PELLSTON, 231.539.7100

Pierson’s Grille & Spirits Ribs, whitefish, pizza, burgers and other staples of life. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 130 STATE ST.,

Boyne City East Jordan Bellaire

Nancy Kelly's Restaurant Fine dining with a flair. Chefprepared gourmet food. Crafted cocktails and a full bar. LD

Manistee

Kalkaska Grayling

Cadillac

ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800

CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES

Roast & Toast Hip coffeehouse with daily house-made soups, bread, bakery items and salads. On-site coffee roasting. A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. BLD

ALDEN/ATWOOD/BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/ RAPID CITY/WALLOON

Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick oven pizzeria. BL • $ 3393 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS,

Bella Vita Casual fine dining Italian restaurant that utilizes the freshest ingredients northern Michigan has to offer whenever possible. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 02911 BOYNE CITY

• $ 309 E. LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767

231.242.1230

RD., BOYNE CITY. 231.582.3341

Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. LD • BAR • $ 1200 N. U.S. 31,

Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge—Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern—American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD.,

PETOSKEY, 231. 347.9291

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY,

Hoppies Landing Pizzas, grinders, nachos, local fish, specialty brews, beautiful views from the Observation Lounge. Pellston Regional Airport. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1395 US

Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and hand-rolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4546

Duffy’s Garage and Grille Pasta, burgers, inventive pizzas LD • BAR • $$ 317 E LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3663 The Fish Restaurant Steaks, seafood and cocktails. D

SPRINGS , 231.526. FARM

Vernales Restaurant Chop house, sports bar and wine bar with patio dining. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3018 M119, HARBOR

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321 The Paper Station Fresh, relaxed and inventive foods including five signature s’mores. BLD • $ 145 E. MAIN ST.,

Small Batch Quiche, inventive breakfast and lunch sandwiches in a creative atmosphere. BL • $ 117 W MAIN ST.,

The Garden Café Farm-to-plate experience in a historic barn set on a working farm. Wine tasting from the on-site vineyard. L • LIGHT D • BAR • $ 5581 S LAKE SHORE DR., HARBOR

Turkey’s Cafe and Pizzeria Special omelets, bagels, French toast, burgers, pizzas, calzones, and sandwiches— served by friendly folks in a quaint 110-year-old building.

$$ 6352 N. LAKESHORE DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2148

SKEY, 231.838.9875

• BAR • $–$$$ 2983 STATE RD., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3969

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL ST.,

HARBOR SPRINGS. 231.242.4655

BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

231347.2771

Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room— fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201

Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

Teddy Griffin’s Roadhouse Casual spot to grab ribs, steak or fresh fish after golf or skiing and catch the game on TV. D • BAR • $$ 50 HIGHLAND PIKE RD., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.7805

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. D • BAR • $$ 1549 GLENDALE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.2410

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800

Dockside Burgers, beer and sunsets on Torch Lake. LD • BAR • $-$$ 6340 OLD TORCH LAKE DR., BELLAIRE, 231.377.7777

Friske Orchards Cafe Cheerful roadside restaurant features farm-fresh breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, a bakery. BL • $ 10743 U.S. 31 S., ATWOOD, 231.599.2604

The Muffin Tin Brain-bendingly good muffins, scones and lunch, too. BL • $ 9047 HELENA RD., ALDEN, 231.331.6808 Pelican's Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads homemade desserts. D • BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

The Strand at Somerset Pointe Fresh fish and locally sourced ingredients. Steak, chicken and pasta also featured. Enjoy a breathtaking view of Sommerset Pointe Marina and Lake Charlevoix while you dine. Covered and open patio dining. Arrive by car or boat! Hours vary seasonally. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 00970 MARINA DR., BOYNE CITY, 231.592.7080

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restaurant guide | dining

Invite Lake Guests

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD

MART

RS

EN

CE

BLE TA

BLD • BAR 1 SHANTY CREEK RD. (M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111

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Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cuisine at Shanty Creek Resort with a view of Lake Bellaire. Breakfast, lunch & dinner. The River Bistro— Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, Lunch, (springfall) Ivan’s Mountainside Gril—Schuss Village-Pub food.

EA

Y

BOYNE CITY, 231.582.0049

’S LEELANA HA

TEN

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST.,

OF EXCE

LL

Featuring breakfast, lunch, prix fixe, dinner, espresso bar, and serving beer, wine and cocktails.

Dinner Prix Fixe Special 3 Courses • 5:00-6:00 pm • $24

NEW Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contem-

porary American food with a focus on local ingredients. D

Torch Riviera Pasta, seafood, steaks, ribs, pizza. D • BAR • $$ 12899 CHERRY AVE., RAPID CITY, 231.322.4100

UNIQUE OFFERING. Nostalgic 3 bedrm. cottage home + 2 guest cottages on a deep lot with 90 ft. all-sports frontage & dock on Big Platte Lake. Cottages rented weekly in summer. $549,000 1859946

Open Every Day Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner.

• BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

• BAR • $$ 213 N BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301

European Style Cafe

Serving Grand Traverse, Leelanau and Benzie counties

Christine Stapleton Mobile 231-499-2698 www.cdstapleton.com

The Red House in Downtown Suttons Bay 231.271.2344 • marthasleelanautable.com

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999

Wild Onion American fare, patio dining and Alden Mill House seasonings at all the tables. BLD • $ 9069 HELENA

scalawagswhitefish.com

RD., ALDEN, 231.331.6777

Brazilian Amethyst Cathedral

CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/ EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. D L • BAR • $-$$ 202

Buy One at Wholesale Prices and Get 2nd One* at 1/2 OFF!

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BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

The Blue Pelican A vintage 1924 inn, home to a genteel front porch, Carolina-style pulled pork, steaks, seafood and a blend of down South and Up North hospitality. D • BAR •

WALLEYE CHOWDER

$$ 2535 M-88, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.544.2583

Located across from the Park Place in Traverse City

The French Quarter New Orleans Casual and relaxed setting offering bistro fare on Round Lake. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 100 MICHIGAN AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.758.3801

East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix.

Many Sizes in Stock (*equal or less value)

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LD • BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling technique in this specialty food and wine shop. D • $-$$$ 12853 U.S. 31 N., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300

The Front Porch Sit elbow-to-elbow with neighbors for fellowship and affordable home-cooked food. BL • $ 9235 MAIN ST., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.2000

Great Lakes Whitefish & Chips Deep-fried whitefish.

LD • BAR • $$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4374

Grey Gables Inn Graceful, intimate Victorian across from the harbor. D • BAR • $–$$$ 308 BELVEDERE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.9261

Jordan Inn Victorian B&B with terrific eggs Benedict and crêpestyle pancakes, fresh lunches and European-style dinners by reservation. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 288 MAIN ST., EAST JORDAN, 231.536.9906

Kelsey B’s Lakeside Food & Spirits Dine on burgers, steaks and fish and soak up the Lake Charlevoix views.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 230 FERRY AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2960

The Landing Restaurant Come by boat or car and watch the Ironton Ferry motor back and forth while you eat at this newly renovated lakeside fun-food spot on Lake Charlevoix. Beach fries, New England lobster roll, great burgers, bbq and other fab summertime food. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10231 FERRY RD., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2960

Voted Best Burger & leelanau county restaurant Red Hot

Best

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL '19

97

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restaurant guide | dining

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E.

Michigan craft beer, wines, fabulous martinis and the dynamic Cookies, our Treetops house band. BLD • BAR • $-$$$

JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

WILKINSON RD., GAYLORD, 800.444.6711

Earth Wind & Fryer Fresh, funky street food from this food truck. Duck burgers anyone? LD • $ 112 W NAGONABA

Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food.

B & B Express Signature burgers on the menu and great breakfasts. BLD • $-$$ 203 S CEDAR ST., KALKASKA, 231.258.9778 Shirley’s Café An ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. BLD

NE W Fig's Sandwiches, breakfasts, salads homemade

LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel.

LD • BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering.

• $ 528 S. WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210

Trout Town Café Homey fishermen spot with sautéed rainbow trout and eggs, pecan-crusted French toast for breakfast; braised brisket and home-roasted turkey for dinner. BLD • $ 306 ELM ST., KALKASKA, 231.258.2701

D • BAR • $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING/ KALKASKA/MANCELONA

Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in and wine bar on the Elk River. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 152 RIVER ST., ELK

STEPHAN BRIDGE RD., GRAYLING, 989.348.8462

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better.

BL • $$ 145 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively Zydeco, jazz and blues. LD • BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530 Siren Hall Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, fresh-off-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 151 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231. 264.6062

Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting.

Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3917 SOUTH OLD 27, GAYLORD, 989.732.9288

Michaywé Inn the Woods Casual, Up Northy, with a lake view, steaks and seafood. LD • BAR • $–$$ 1535 OPAL LAKE RD., MICHAYWÉ, 989.939.8800

Otsego Club American and international menu, nice wine list in a log lodge overlooking the Sturgeon River Valley.

The Duck Blind Grille—Casual evening dining. D • BAR • $$ 696 E. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5181

Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. LD • BAR 227 E MICHIGAN AVE., GRAYLING, 989.745.6388

Spike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since 1933. LD • BAR $ 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113 Tap Room 32 Twenty handles of Michigan craft beers and a menu of modern brew-friendly vittles like truffle fries and Korean beef tacos. D • $$ 141 NORTH COURT AVE., GAYLORD, 989.748.8552

The Old Depot 1900s train depot features homestyle burgers, steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. BLD • $$ 10826 M-32 E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115 Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. BLD • BAR • $$$$$ 216 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5524

Treetops Sylvan Resort Hunters Grille, & Sports Bar. Steak, burgers, ribs, pasta, signature pizza, chicken, fish and gluten-free selections. Featuring a selection of 100

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season.

LD • BAR • $ 7144 N. M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566

PORT, 231.386. 5511

Petoskey

Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10844 E REVOLD RD., SUTTONS

Northport Leland

Suttons Bay

Gaylord

BAY, 231.944.1297

Glen Arbor Cedar Empire Traverse City Frankfort

The Homestead Nonna’s Restaurant—Classically inspired, contemporary Italian cuisine. D • BAR $$-$$$ Beppi’s Sports Bar—Hand-tossed pizzas, paninis and salads. D • BAR • $-$$ 1 WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000

RAPIDS, 231.264.9000

Gates Au Sable Lodge Artful, home-cooking on the river with a takeout window for anglers. BLD • BAR $-$$ 471

231.256.7720

Garage Bar & Grill BBQ & bar eats are served at this pared-down watering hole with garage doors & a dogfriendly patio. LD • BAR • $-$$ 108 S WAUKAZOO ST., NORTH-

Mackinaw City

LD • BAR • $-$$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.6925

• $ 147 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901

with local ingredients. Great selection of vegetarian dishes. BL • $$ 202 WEST MAIN STREET, LAKE LEELANAU,

MCFARLANE, MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

Villager Pub Terry Left’s downstairs digs feature a ’50s atmosphere, whitefish, Mexican, ribs, sandwiches, pizza.

Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. LD

ST., NORTHPORT, 231.432.0268

Manistee

Hang-On Express Thai and Chinese classics. LD • $ 316

Cadillac

ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.0202

Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR •

LEELANAU COUNTY

$$ 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and lunch. BL • $-$$ 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. BLD

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. LD • BAR •

Barb’s Bakery House-baked goods famous for cinnamon twists, doughnuts, croissants and more. $ 112 N. MILL ST.,

231.334.3944

• BAR • $-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

NORTHPORT, 231.386.5851

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE, Leland Lodge Bogeys—BLD • BAR • $-$$ 565 PEARL ST., LELAND, 231.256.9848

Blu Exquisite regional cuisine from chef Randy Chamberlain in an intimate setting on Sleeping Bear Bay. D • BAR • $$$$ LAKE ST., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.2530

Little Traverse Inn Old World gastro pub highlights the food and beer of the British Isles. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 149 E. HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY. 231. 228.2560

The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927. Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the off-season.

Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081 Big Cat Brewing Company Formerly the Cedar Rustic Inn, serves the same great comfort food including pot roast, perch and Southern-fried chicken, but now with house-brewed beer. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 8699 S. GOOD HARBOR TR., CEDAR, 231.228.2282

Boone Dock’s Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444

Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff. LD • BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688 N E W Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers, hand-cut fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling in the winter.

LD • BAR • $ 172 W BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869

The Cove Seafood, steaks and great bar food (don’t miss the Chubby Mary—a bloody Mary with a smoked chub in it!) served up in the heart of Fishtown on the Leland River. Sunny days, catch a seat at Rick’s Café on the deck LD • BAR • $$-$$$ LELAND, 231.256.9834 Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches, pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.9912

$-$$ 5019 BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

The Manor on Glen Lake Fine family dining in a renovated lakeside inn. LD • BAR • $-$$ 7345 W. GLENMERE RD., GLEN LAKE AT THE NARROWS, 231.334.0150

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR • $ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch, including some gluten free dishes and pastries. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR • $$ 420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

The Mitten Brewing Co. Small craft brewery featuring appetizers, indoor lounge, covered patio and beer garden.

LD • BAR • $ 112 W. NAGANOBA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1101

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast—all done well. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6692

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, breakfast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers share the menu at this fun Northport eat spot. BLD • $ 110 E. NAGONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055

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restaurant guide | dining

Trish’s Dishes Crepes, omelets, salads, gourmet sandwiches. BLD • $ 407 E MAIN ST., LELAND, 231.994.2288 Tucker’s of Northport Bistro-style casual fine dining featuring fresh, local whitefish, Great Lakes perch, cioppino, house-smoked ribs and wings, hand-pattied Angus burgers and carefully selected wine list. Meet. Dine. Bowl. LD • BAR • $-$$ 116 WAUKAZOO, NORTHPORT, 231.386.1061

Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. LD • BAR • $$ 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231. 334.3362

fine-art galleries: Bella Galleria and sculptor/owner Verna Bartnick’s studio. LD • BAR • $$ 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.7280

Peninsula Grill Roadhouse with cozy fireplace, wings, burgs, and regional Northern fare. LD • BAR • $$ 14091 CENTER RD. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.7200

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY Alliance James Beard-nominee Pete Peterson teams with up-and-coming chef James Bloomfield at this Warehouse District bistro. LD • BAR • $-$$ 144 HALL ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5545

Mackinaw City

Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888

Bay Bread Company Bakery 43 artisanal breads, sandwiches, soups and salads. BLD • $ 601 RANDOLPH ST., TRA-

Petoskey

VERSE CITY, 231. 922.8022 Old Mission

Frankfort

Gaylord

Acme Traverse City Interlochen

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with from-scratch farmer food. Be sure to check out The Shed next door where you'll find a beer garden and a food truck where sliders are served up hot. The comfy burger bar boasts a list of over 25 Michigan-crafted beers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515

Manistee

Cadillac

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA INTERLOCHEN/LAKE ANN

Brew Café and Bar Hip spot for a drink and light meal before or after performances at the Opera House. BLD • $ 108 E. FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.2739

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads, tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout and so much more. LD BAR • $-$$ 10586 US31, INTER-

Dayclub Fine dining experience for the whole family at the West Bay Beach Holiday Inn Resort. LD • BAR • $$-$$$

LOCHEN, 231.275.6401

615 FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.3700

Bud’s A reprise of the original Bud’s gas/bait shop is a cool hangout for locals, vacationers and Interlochen students. Try the cappuccinos and monkey bread, burgers and original sandwiches. BLD • $ 3061 M-137, INTERLOCHEN,

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility.

231.276.9090

Dilbert’s Soups, Sandwiches, omelets and other home cooking served in a homey atmosphere. BLD • $ 11303 U.S. 31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.3005

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2784 M-137, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6979

Maddy’s Tavern Burgers, pizza, pasta, sandwiches. Friday night specials. LD • BAR • $-$$ 9205 U.S. 31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6244

OLD MISSION PENINSULA Bad Dog Deli Eat shrimp pizza, pepperoni pesto rolls or flavorful Boar’s Head sandwiches in this peninsula outpost. L • $ 14091 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.9364 Boathouse Restaurant Casually elegant spot with great steaks, seafood, large local wine selection. Sunday brunch. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 14039 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY,

LD • $$-$$$ 115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. BLD • $ 129 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. LD • $ 108 S. UNION, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

Folgarelli’s Market & Wine Shop Lunch & dinner (eat here or to go), gourmet groceries, wines imported & local, vast selection of cured meats and cheese. LD • BAR • $-$$ 424 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7651

The Franklin Hip new downtown eatery featuring flatbread, salads, lamb and beef burgers, bistro dinners. Fabulous wine, craft beer, hard cider and perry. LD • BAR • $-$$ 160 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2727

Frenchies Famous Three tables and carryout, offers superb hot sandwiches and espresso drinks. LD • $ 619 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1228

231.223.4030

Fustini's Fresh Take Healthy, tasty salads, soups and sandwiches to go with vegan and gluten-free choices. LD •

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. LD • BAR • $$

Georgina’s Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 236 E. FRONT

$ 141 FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1145

13512 OLD PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1555

Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, locally sourced fare and craft cocktails. D THURS-

N E W The Good Bowl Fresh, authentic Vietnamese eat-

ery. Donates $1 for every bowl to the charity of your choice.

DAY, FRIDAY & SATURDAY 5PM–9PM • BAR • $-$$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4222

LD • BAR $-$$ 328 E FRONT ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662

Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials—this lushly landscaped spot hosts two

BL • $ 115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687

The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads.

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. BL •

$ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437

Harvest In brand new expanded location, local foods hip spot. LD • $ 136 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.486.6037 Little Bohemia Famous Olive Burger featured on Food Network. Established 1932, family tavern in The West End District, full menu, free off street parking, seasonal outdoor seating. LD 540 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.6925 Little Fleet A bar/food truck compound that hosts the likes of Pigs Eatin’ Ribs (all things pork), Roaming Harvest (pork tacos) Anchor Station (burgers and more). LD • BAR • $ 448 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1116

Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty char-burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR • $$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2793

Milk & Honey Salads, sandwiches and homemade ice cream all made with local ingredients that are natural, GMO-free and organic when possible. Gluten-free options available. LD • BAR • $ 250 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1036

Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, well-aged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelets, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. BLD • $ 124

CASS, 231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590

Paesano’s Charming spot with cozy booths puts pizza pie on a pedestal. LD • $ 447 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.5740

Pangea’s Pizza Pub Craft pies, creative toppings. LD • BAR $-$$ 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800

NE W Park Street Cafe Fresh-made gourmet sandwich-

es (breakfast waffle sandwich!) and other grab-and-go foods. Indoor and outdoor seating. BL • $ 113 S. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.239.8150

Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD • $-$$$ 237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9645

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and awardwinning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7632

Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer. LD • BAR • $$ 229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh-sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips A new location for ultrafresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700

Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (including European Trappist ales) with your burger, thin crust gourmet pizza, salad or lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4807

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local table | dining

This month we salute Gibby’s Fries—Northern Michigan’s unofficial festival food for a mind-blowing 73 years. (If we were our own state would we put them on our flag? Well, maybe …) Based in Traverse City, Gibby’s concession is a Cherry Festival institution that draws daylong lines of folks craving the perfectly crunchy and happily greasy fries. The secret to their goodness is fresh-peeled and cut potatoes, each batch deep-fried before your eyes in at least six vats of fresh, clean and dangerously hot vegetable oil—the last fryer being the hottest of all to achieve a final crisp. Order a paper boat full and then decide: eat them as is? With a pump of vinegar on top? Ketchup? Gibby’s gets around to many of the North’s other major festivals too—to find them simply follow your nose. —Elizabeth Edwards

GABE'S OLD FASHIONED FROZEN CUSTARD

S W E E T

GIBBY'S FRIES

S A L T Y

LEFT: PHOTO COURTESY OF JACLYN EIKEY // RIGHT: PHOTO COURTESY OF GABE'S OLD FASHIONED FROZEN CUSTARD

H OM E TOW N T R E ATS : TC

Starting from the ground up, with as many fresh and local ingredients as possible, Traverse City chef Gabe Lava hopes to create some of the most interesting and delectable custards you’ve ever tasted.

He’s starting with four core flavors—Burnt Honey, Buttered Popcorn, Just Chocolate and Bananas Foster.

Beyond the main menu, he has an arsenal of more than 45 flavor combinations at the ready. (He’s been thinking about custard for quite some time now.) Fun ones he’s played with so far: carrot cake, honey lavender...

Expect some wild, out-of-the-box combos. And once you try them, we think you’ll agree he’s a genius. Snag a pint of Gabe’s Frozen Custard at the new grab-and-go shop, Goodboy Provisions, on State Street. —Claire Palmer Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL '19

103

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restaurant guide | dining

NEW Smokehouse Mac Shack Inventive mac n’ cheese

grilled cheese, Belgian fries. L • $ 718 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE

The Silver Swan Ethnic fare and killer desserts. LD • $

LD • $-$$ 201 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.633.7800

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,

231.534.8888

Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. BLD • $ 1333 YELLOW DR.,

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT ST.,

Thai Café Eat in or take out authentic Thai cuisine in a cafe atmosphere. LD • $-$$ 1219 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1303

Tastes of Black Star Farms Matterhorn Grill Dinner featuring Leelanau Cheese Company raclette and wine samples. D • BAR • $$$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR. SUITE 35 (GRAND

to go. LD • $ 439 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5001 Sparks BBQ Smoking up the real thing—pulled pork and chicken, brisket, ribs and jerky. Don’t miss the BBQ Sundae.

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

State Street Grille Downtown Traverse City sports bar featuring 11 big screens, bang bang shrimp, steaks, lobster mac and cheese, local beer, wine and spirits. LD • $-$$ 221 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.4263

Sugar 2 Salt Traverse City's newest brunch spot (otherwise known as S2S) shakes up the same ol' same ol' with dishes like duck (yes, for breakfast) and everything served up with what is in season. B • $-$$ 1371 GRAY DR., SUITE 300, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.409.8382

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500

The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients with extensive outdoor seating and a casual atmosphere. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.090

Warehouse Kitchen & Cork Seasonally inspired farm-tofork restaurant inside Hotel Indigo. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 263 WEST GRANDVIEW PARKWAY, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0500

White on Rice Sushi & ramen served carry out or dine in. Text or call ahead for orders. LD • $-$$ 510 W 14TH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.633.7423

CITY, 231.932.7687

Agave Mexican Grill Authentic, freshly made Mex. LD •

231.929.8989

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY,

The Underground Cheesecake Co. Housemade soups, sandwiches and a huge array of incredibly delish cheesecakes. L • $ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4418 West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR.,

231.946.3991

Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted woodfired flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. LD • BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, Hunan Authentic Chinese eatery that’s hidden behind a Taco Bell. L (TUE-SUN) D (FRI-SUN) • $ 1425 S. AIRPORT RD., The Kitchen Salads, wraps, tacos. All to go. BL & EARLY D •

Petoskey

$ 1254 WOODMERE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.TOGO

Mulligan’s Pub and Grill Stuffed burgers, extravagant salads and sammies, ribs and whitefish at this year-round establishment at the Crown Golf Course. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2430 W. CROWN DR., AT THE CROWN GOLF CLUB, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.2975

260 E. TENTH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.0191

CITY, 231.947.9261

231.944.1239

Don’s Drive In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. LD • $

Sauce at Incredible Mo’s Artisan pizza, pasta, salad in a kid-friendly atmosphere. LD •BAR • $-$$ 1355 SILVER LAKE

2030 U.S. 31 N., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.1860

CROSSINGS BLVD, GRAWN, 231.944.1355

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD

Willie’s Rear Full breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers. Counter and table seating. BL • $ 1315 W. S. AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE

La Señorita Bustling Mexican cantina with fajitas, jumbo margaritas. LD • BAR • $ 2455 N. US 31 S., TRAVERSE CITY,

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST

McGee’s No. 72 Gourmet burgers, fries, pizza and other sophisticated bar food. D • BAR • $$ 4341 M72 E., TRAVERSE

LD • BAR • $$ 13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

CITY, 231.421.5506

Gaylord

Frankfort Beulah Benzonia Onekama Manistee

Traverse City

Cadillac

BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/THOMPSONVILLE The Cherry Hut Homemade cherry pies, jams, jellies, red-and-white-clad servers and American-style food. LD • $-$$ 211 N. MICHIGAN AVE. (US 31), BEULAH, 231.882.4431

Cold Creek Inn Perch, planked whitefish, homemade pizza, burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 185 S.BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5531

• $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000

Crystal Café American café-style breakfast and lunch. BL • $ 1681 BENZIE HWY. BENZONIA, 231.882.9565

Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad.

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Woodpaneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites. BLD • BAR • $-$$ M-115, THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000

Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken, pizza, soups, salads. LD • BAR • $ 14848 THOMPSON AVE., THOMPSONVILLE, 231.378.2554

Nada’s Gourmet Deli & Mediterranean Cuisine Authentic hummus, tabbouleh, chicken shawarma, falafel, the best baklava in Traverse City. LD • $ 542 W FRONT ST,

Hungry Tummy Restaurant Full breakfasts (chickenfried steak, eggs and gravy ... ), pizza, broasted chicken and more. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 226 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.6779

231.882.5103

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR

L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $ 274 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5221 The Manitou Whitefish, perch, duck with cherry sauce, ribs, steaks, seafood. Nine miles north of Frankfort on M-22. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4349 NORTH SCENIC HWY., HONOR,

Reflect Bistro and Lounge at Cambria Suites Hotel Breakfast, dinner and Happy Hour 4-7 p.m. daily. BD • BAR

• $$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960

Smoke and Porter Public House A new American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. Serving microbrews, wine, and liquor. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020 The Soup Cup, a MicroSouperie Homemade soups,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4648

• $-$$$ 255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000

Mackinaw City

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.1388

Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now at a new location. BAR • $ 225 E. 16 ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922

231.946.8168

Cottage Café Comfortable food, coffee and tea press pots, friendly service, reasonable prices in a unique Traverse City experience. BLD • $-$$ 472 MUNSON, TRAVERSE

Mr. C’s Pub and Grill Fine pub food with excellent wines and craft beers—paired with menu entrees for your convenience. LD • BAR • $$ M-72 E., WILLIAMSBURG, 231.267.3300 Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-caneat cod. BLD • $ 1103 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY,

BAR • $-$$ 851 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4408

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST

CITY, 231.421.8800

TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453

TRAVERSE COMMONS), TRAVERSE CITY. 231.941.1349

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH

Oryana’s Lake Street Café Classic Detroit-style coney and grill with mouthwatering Greek treats like crunchy falafel, rich spanakopita, gyros and lemon soup. BLD • $-$$

231.947.8820

13692 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203

Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., ST. 30, Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons.

Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$ 717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

231.882.4761

Papa J’s Pizzeria & Diner Sparkling diner serving homemade dishes and fine pizza pie. Weekend buffets and everyday pizza lunch buffet. BLD • $ 10583 MAIN ST., HONOR, 231.325.7070

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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105

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restaurant guide | dining

Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere.

Steaks, Italian, Mexican. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 10921 MAIN ST.,

Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1100 28TH ST.,

The Roadhouse Fresh Mex with a cool cantina atmosphere. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US 31), BENZO-

The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. D •

Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers sandwiches. BLD •

Coho Locally sourced cuisine and a spacious patio overlooking Betsie Bay. Fantastic Happy Hour, fine wines, spirits and Michigan beers. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 320 MAIN ST.,

HONOR, 231.227.1200

NIA, 231.882.9631

$-$$ 245 S BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250

CADILLAC After 26 Casual eatery dedicated to employing adults with developmental disabilities and cognitive impairment. BLD • $ 127 W. CASS ST., CADILLAC, 231.468.3526, AFTER26PROJECT.ORG

Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. BL • $ 304 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5461

Cadillac Grill This lodge–style, car-themed eatery’s cuisine runs from bar food to fine dining. LD • BAR • $$ 7839 E.

46 K RD., OVERLOOKING THE ELDORADO GOLF COURSE, CADILLAC, 231.779.3663

Clam Lake Beer Company 40 craft beers on tap, woodfired pizzas, grilled angus burgers. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 106 MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.6150

Coyote Crossing Resort Full bar & restaurant with Northwoods décor set on beautiful property in the Manistee National Forest. American fare. Live music. Open six days a week year round. LD • BAR • $$ 8593 S. 13 RD., CADILLAC, 231.862.3212

Evergreen Resort Terrace Room restaurant—Stellar water and woods views plus American fare, Sun. brunch and sandwiches. BLD • BAR • $$ Curly’s Up North Bar & Grill—Casual bar food in a snug knotty-pine setting. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 7880 MACKINAW TRAIL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9947

MANISTEE, 231.723.8000

$-$$ 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843

FRANKFORT, 231.352.6053

Conundrum Cafe Light lunch fare, Hawaiian shave ice and alcohol available to purchase. BL • $-$$ 603 FRANKFORT AVE, ELBERTA, 231.352.8150

Crescent Bakery Artisanal breads, pies, cheesecakes, and hand- decorated cookies. BL • $ 404 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4611

Dinghy’s Legendary for smoked meats, including ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken, turkey legs, chicken wings and fish fry. LD • BAR • $$ 415 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4702 The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114

The Glenwood Casual dining, almond-battered shrimp and bleu cheese filet mignon, homemade desserts.

Open for dinner at 5 p.m. D • BAR • $–$$$ 4604 MAIN ST., ONEKAMA, 231.889.3734

Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn.

BLD • $-$$$ 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090

House of Flavors 50s diner featuring family style breakfasts, lunch and dinner. And, yes, a full ice cream menu.

BLD • $-$$ 284 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.887.4600

L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $-$$ 325 MAIN STREET, FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 Lighthouse Café Robust breakfasts, soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, steak, perch, liver and onions. BLD • $–$$

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an alpenhaus-style dining room. LD • BAR • $$ 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563 Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks. LD • BAR • $ 1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575 Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club–style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. LD • BAR • $$ 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC,

FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9136

Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting.

River Street Station Cheers-esque, smoky burgerand-ribs joint with a summer deck that affords an up-close view of the freighter action along the Manistee River. BLD

231.775.5332

LD • BAR • $ 523 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA Arcadia Bluffs Golf Club & Restaurant Fresh fish, aged beef, Mediterranean rack of lamb and an emphasis on local ingredients all served with a spectacular view of Lake Michigan. BLD • $-$$$ 14710 NORTHWOOD HWY., ARCADIA, 231.889.3001

Bayview Grille Burgers, steaks, homemade beignets, liege waffles, wings, mussels and crabcakes at this casual eatery. BLD • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8050, BAYVIEWGRILLE.COM

Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399

Blue Fish Kitchen & Bar New American cuisine, traditional fare, vegetarian and vegan. LD • BAR $-$$$ 312 RIVER ST., MANISTEE. 231.887.4188

Blue Waters Café Breakfast, brunch, burgers, Mexican, sandwiches, seafood. BLD • BAR • $ 155 8TH ST., MANISTEE, 231.723.4501

735 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA. 231.352. 5273

Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. LD • BAR $-$$ 515

Papano’s Pizza Traditional pizza pie. D • $–$$ 334 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.6700

Rico’s East Lake’s welcoming, true North watering hole with fresh smelt, burgs, and smoky adobo beef spring rolls. LD

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• BAR • $-$$ 900 CABERFAE HWY. (M-55), MANISTEE, 231.723.3721

• BAR • $-$$ 350 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.723.8411

N E W Rock's Landing

Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with ethnic influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. D • BAR $$ 1157 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 Shay’s M22 Steaks, chops, whitefish. Emphasis on fresh seasonal ingredients. Great wine and beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$ 4472 CRESCENT BEACH RD., ONEKAMA, 231.889.3121

Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib pasta , whitefish, craft beer, regional wines gourmet pizza, specialty salads. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751, FRANKFORT/ELBERTA

T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for panini, mex and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. LD • BAR • $ 99 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174

Villa Marine Friday fish special. Saturday prime rib.

American cooking. LD • $-$$ 228 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.5450, MANISTEE/ARCADIA/ONEKAMA

Yellow Dog Café Fabulous coffee, sandwiches, baked goods. LD • $ 4850 MAIN ST, ONEKAMA, 231.508.5008

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL '19

107

VINO FILE

Britta Dennis & Matt Killman WALLOON LAKE WINERY TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

108

MyNorth.com

petoskey wine region | drinks

TAKE A TOUR We’ve engineered a Petoskey summer Saturday full of snaky scenic highways, wine tasting and an al fresco food truck lunch. Cheers.

WALLOON LAKE WINERY 231.622.8645 Stock up on WLW’s lemony Wildwood White and the black plum and lavenderlaced Randall’s Point Red for aprés-tasting beach bottles.

RUDBECKIA WINERY 231.622.4173 Rudbeckia’s hybrid plantings will come online in 2020 but for now swirl a zippy dry riesling sourced from Lake Michigan Shore or sip their award-winning hard cider.

THE BACK LOT 231.881.9933 Mim’s gyros, Happy’s tacos and cold pints of craft brew at P-town’s open-air food truck emporium make for a much needed midday intermission.

PETOSKEY FARMS VINEYARD & WINERY 231.290.9463 Finish out the day with rolling vistas and a cold glass of First Crush, a juicy semi-sweet Frontenac rosé full of ripe strawberry and tropical fruit.

PETOSKEY WINE REGION The Petoskey Wine Region is the North’s next frontier in cool climate viticulture and Walloon Lake Winery co-owner, Britta Dennis and winemaker Matt Killman are leading the charge with fresh, fruit-driven wines pressed from coldhardy grapes like Marquette and La Crescent. We sit down with Britta and Matt for a primer on hybrid varietals and some insight into Petoskey’s emerging wine scene.

You’re winning awards and running a successful winery in a non-traditional growing zone, how does that work?

Well, it’s too cold here for traditional vitis vinifera like riesling or pinot noir so we have to focus on grapes that are suited to the climate. That means the cold-hardy stable hybrid grapes like Marquette and La Crescent that were developed at the University of Minnesota.

What should we know about these hybrid grapes?

Just like vinifera, hybrids each have their own personality and they make delicious wine. They don’t make inferior or superior wine, they make the wine that they make and we just try to guide each one toward its best expression. Because of their resilience to cold and disease the quality of the fruit stays more consistent from year to year.

How do La Crescent and Marquette relate to wines we might be familiar with?

Both are super relatable for most wine drinkers. La Crescent has showy lemon meringue aromatics and really crisp acidity that’s a lot like sauvignon blanc.

Marquette is very dark and low in tannins but its signature cherry characteristics and bright acid make it similar to pinot noir.

What is tasting room culture like in the PWR? There’s a ton of variety. We’re twelve wineries within the larger Tip of the Mitt AVA—and everyone is doing something different. All of our wineries are small family enterprises so pretty much anywhere you go you’ll find an owner, winemaker or family member filling your glass, and we’re all supporting each other.

Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com. // Dave Weidner is a freelance photographer based in Traverse City. dweidnerphoto@gmail.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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109

CANOE THE BOARDMAN Paddle through TC’s urban arteries.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ANDREW VANDRIE

Wide and slow in its lower stretches, the skinny water near the Boardman River’s headwaters provides a deceptively technical and quick-paced paddle. I like to head for the upper stretches that often get overlooked.

While numerous take-outs along the Boardman allow for brief excursions, set aside a few hours for a more immersive experience. Paddling from Forks State Forest Campground on Brown Bridge Road down to Shumsky Road (the launch is adjacent to the campground) is a 4.5-hour trip with a blend of scenery and water conditions to keep paddlers engaged but not exhausted.

Embarking from the tight oxbows of this upper stretch, the water slips past cedar canopy and sweepers before shooting through culverts just past Ranch Rudolf. From here, the stream continues its lively pace, skimming over the gravel shoals of Scheck’s Place State Forest Campground and slip-

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ping under the serpentine Brown Bridge Road a second time.

Downstream, the current curtails, the river widens and the riparian woodlands give way to a vast grassland. Formerly Brown Bridge Pond, the receded waters have exposed an open prairie similar to the grassland trout streams of Montana and Wyoming.

The Boardman heads under Brown Bridge Road one final time, churning beneath the traffic of Garfield, and from here on out, it’s pure Northern Michigan. The banks are hemmed in with cedars, spruce, tag alders and dogwood. The generous width and slower flow of the river make for a relaxing drift during the final hour of the voyage. Watch for the launch/ take-out on the right, just downstream of Shumsky Road, to avoid overshooting your destination.

Andrew VanDrie writes from Traverse City. vandrian@umich.edu.

canoeing | outdoors

SAFETY TIPS • Always wear a life jacket.

• Secure all items to the canoe’s gunwales or crossbar to prevent a downstream yard sale if your craft capsizes.

• Take proper time and precaution when navigating tight corners.

• Place the more experienced paddler in the rear of the canoe.

• Tuck provisions in a dry bag. Sandwiches (especially a Mary’s Kitchen Port Gobbler) always boost morale.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUL ’19

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love of the land

Forslund Dix Point Nature Preserve, Drummond Island PHOTO COURTESY OF CHARLES DAWLEY/LITTLE TRAVERSE CONSERVANCY

T

his stunning, newly created preserve on the northwestern tip of Drummond Island, includes more than 56 acres of land and 1,800 feet of pristine St. Mary’s Channel shoreline.

The land was a gift from the Carl Forslund, Jr. family in memory of their late parents, Carl and Anne Forslund, to the Little Traverse Conservancy to keep this muchloved part of Drummond Island untouched and accessible for generations to come.

Barbara Forslund, their youngest daughter, shares what the land means to her family: “Our grandfather, Carl Forslund, Sr., first came to Drummond in 1947 to hunt and loved it so much that he bought a small cabin on the Old Ferry Dock Road from Chuck Zeerip, sight unseen. My siblings, cousins and I all grew up spending our vacations in that one-room cabin without running water, and my cousins, who own it now, did the same with their children who are now doing it with their children.

There have been five generations staying in that cabin, still without running water. I can’t remember the first time I came to Drummond; it has always been a part of my life. Life on Drummond shaped us, made us who we are.”

The Point is about 10 acres of rocky land that is connected to the rest of Drummond Island by a narrow isthmus, particularly narrow in current high water conditions.

The shoreline continues for another 600 feet to the west and south, facing the St. Mary’s Channel. Access is provided through the State Forest from Sturgeon Bay Road or from the water.

For more information about this and other Little Traverse Conservancy preserves near you, visit LANDTRUST.ORG or swing by the conservancy’s office in Harbor Springs for a free copy of the nature preserve map.

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