Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine September 2021 by MyNorth

Traverse + SPICY WHISKEY CIDER COLLINS

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BIKING CADILLAC PATHWAY

LOST VILLAGE PIEROGI

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Hemingway's Hiking Magic Farmers Trails Market Meals North

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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EE A AU L L N A A Y B KYK PADDLING CRYSTAL CLEAR LAKES and RIVERS with JON CONSTANT

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You’re not kayaking unless you’re CLEAR WATER Kayaking! ™

Clear Bottom Kayak Tours & Rentals Traverse City l Elk Rapids l Torch Lake l Leelanau l Benzie Come spend the day with Clear Water Kayaks ! www.clearwaterkayakstc.com • 231-632-6583 TM

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8/6/21 9:40 AM

Building and renovating Northern Michigan’s finest residences.

J. Peterson Realty is pleased to present a 5 bedroom classic new construction on the “Gold Coast” of Torch Lake. Situated on one of the last remaining high and dry vacant sites on the sunset side of the lake. Three floors of open finished space includes a walkout lower level. Amenity offers all the custom features that you have come to expect from J. Peterson Homes. $2,595,000. MLS #1885643. Lot offered separately for your custom home. 10136 Larson Road. $695,000. MLS #1885644

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J. Peterson Realty offers an amazing opportunity to build on Peninsula Drive, one of the most desirable locations in Traverse City. Located just 10 minutes from Traverse City, the large parcel features over 200’ of West Bay frontage and a large rear parcel for your guest house or sports pavilion. Home includes an open floorplan, 4 bedrooms, 3 1/2 baths and potential future finish space in the daylight lower level. 9006 Peninsula Drive. $1,950,000. MLS # 1883141

joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168

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Traverse 09.21 INSIDE

F E AT U R E S

28 LEELANAU BY KAYAK

Author and avid kayaker Jon Constant shares his favorite paddles across the peninsula’s crystal clear lakes and rivers. E X C E R P T E D F R O M “ L E E L A N A U B Y K AYA K ” B Y J O N R . C O N S TA N T W I T H L A R R Y B U R N S

22 TO MARKET! TO MARKET!

Leave your meal plans behind and head to the nearest farmers market to let local growers and their produce set your menu. TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS

photo by Andy Wakeman

PHOTOS BY ANDY WAKEMAN AND TIM HUSSEY

MAGIC OF THE TRAILS

Awe-inspiring hikes—and mystical fairy houses—await you at Grand Traverse Commons Natural Area and the Botanic Garden at Historic Barns Park. TEXT BY KIM SCHNEIDER PHOTOS BY ALLISON JARRELL AND DAVE WEIDNER

40 HEMINGWAY’S NORTH

The 21 or so summers that Ernest Hemingway spent in Northern Michigan shaped his literary trajectory. Visit the places that inspired an icon; Hemingway’s North. TEXT BY JEANNE AMBROSE

MyNorth .com DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH, PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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8/2/21 8:06 PM

Always the unique and unexpected since 1986

DE PART M E N T S 7 | EDITOR'S NOTE 9 | UP NORTH Las Mujeres “the women”

By terracotta sculptor Roberto Tirado Many NEW designs in stock 112 North Main Street Leland, MI 49654 (231) 256-7747 info@TampicoLelandMi.com FOLLOW US! www.facebook.com/Tampicolelandmi

The annual arts takeover: Meet Katie Jones, the first executive director of Frankfort’s Garden Theater; a can’t-miss gallery event; a new performance center and more.

14 | SEPTEMBER EVENTS

53 | ON THE TABLE

Save some of summer by making an Indian-inspired peach chutney.

57 | LAST CALL

A spicy-sweet whiskey cocktail is the best way to unwind after a trip to the cider mill.

59 | OUTDOORS

As summer fades to fall, celebrate the seasons at an array of festivals, from brews and blues to paddling the North’s waterways.

Cycle, hike or ski the picturesque Cadillac Pathway, then relax by a fire at the new pavilion.

17 | TRAVEL

This new 582-acre U.P. nature preserve was established to protect Great Lakes wildlife.

Where to stay, play and eat on a weekend getaway to the charming lakeside village of Pentwater.

60 | LOVE OF THE LAND

19 | UP IN MICHIGAN 6 Bedrooms, 4.5 Baths Custom Teak Deck Overlooking Silver Lake Sunrises Gourmet Kitchen with Butler’s Pantry Main Floor Primary Suite Open Floor Plan with Floor-to-Ceiling Windows Lower Level Has an Additional Kitchen Boat, Hoist, Dock, and Water Toys are Negotiable for Instant Summer Fun!

1044 N West Silver Lake Dr, Traverse City MLS #1891022 | $1,400,000

A Traverse City animal activist uses images and words to advocate for the protection of the world’s precious creatures.

45 | THE CULINARY NORTH

Lost Village Pierogi serves up both traditional and far-fetched flavors, like chicken noodle soup and cherry cheesecake; Kombucha is bubbling up from Traverse City to Marquette.

photos by Dave Weidner

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9 ON THE COVER Jon Constant and Larry Burns enjoy a sunny paddle along Sleeping Bear Dunes. PHOTO BY JON CONSTANT

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Recipe of the Month from

Traverse

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER

Deborah Wyatt Fellows Michael Wnek

SENIOR EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL CONTENT WRITER & SOCIAL MEDIA PROJECT MANAGER CULINARY COLUMNIST

Vol. 41 | No. 4

Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell Rachel Soulliere Stacey Brugeman

PROOFREADERS

Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Andrew VanDrie Kandace Chapple Kim Schneider Heather Durocher

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Tim Hussey Theresa Burau-Baehr

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

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Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800-678-3416 between 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST. Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Prism Publications Inc., 125 S Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $24.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2021, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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Editor's Note

HEMINGWAY’S BEGINNINGS

n sept. 3, 1921, the day Elizabeth Hadley Richardson was to marry Ernest Hemingway at a little church in Horton Bay, she went for a swim. Anyone who has seen Bear Lake (now Walloon) in the late-summer sunshine can imagine how inviting it must have looked. She was 29, a graduate of Bryn Mawr College and an impulsive, affectionate young woman who, by the time she’d met Hemingway less than a year before, had considered herself on the road to spinsterhood. Hemingway came North to be married for the first time, and to honeymoon at Windemere, the cottage where he’d had so many childhood adventures. Hadley, as he called her, was marrying a 22-year-old with no college education and a short journalism career. But he was a dashing figure, having been wounded in war as an ambulance driver for the Red Cross—shot as he carried an injured soldier back toward the command post in Fossalta, Italy. As Hadley sat drying her hair—it made her late to the church— could she have known that she was marrying a man who would take her on fabulous adventures and become one of America’s most renowned writers? I find myself looking into her face and trying to imagine who it was she thought she was marrying. Northern Michigan, like Hadley, knew Ernest Hemingway in his youth. Through his haunts, his writings and the stories passed on now for decades, we are drawn to the picture of a young adventurer, a relative innocent. And the Northern Michigan he loved was more innocent then, representing a very different life from his family’s home in Oak Park, Illinois. Even his mother, Grace, must have seen Northern Michigan as a bit of the Wild West. Take the story of when Hemingway shot a blue heron. He was 16, and he and his sister, “Sunny,” were exploring Walloon Lake in one of the family boats. Hemingway thought the bird would make a fine addition to his father’s collection of mounts—so he shot it. The two wrapped the bird in paper and stashed it in the boat while they explored the woods. When they returned, the bird was gone. They decided not to tell anyone about it. The next day, while Hemingway was helping a neighbor with the haying, a game warden threatened Grace that he

would arrest Hemingway for shooting the blue heron. Grace ran him off with a shotgun. Hemingway’s Uncle George took him to a judge, and the teenager was fined a small amount and let off. Hemingway never forgot the incident, and it inspired one of his Nick Adams stories. We are pleased to be running a feature this month that lets anyone tour the author’s haunts in Northern Michigan as Hemingway is on so many minds; whether from the year-long celebration throughout 2021 being put on by the Village of Walloon Lake or Ken Burns' Hemingway documentary, released in April 2021. Lots of communities around the world celebrate their connections to the famous and infamous. But the celebration of Hemingway’s life in Northern Michigan is not just a celebration of his living here—it’s a celebration of how he lived here. Through those stories, we are connected to a land that fired his heart and imagination. Both Hemingway and Hadley lived out their lives in other places, albeit not together. Hemingway fell in love with Pauline Pfeiffer, an American fashion writer for Vogue living in Paris. She would become his second wife. Hadley asked that Pfeiffer and Hemingway stay apart for 100 days, and at the end of that time if they were still in love, she would grant Hemingway a divorce. The divorce became final in January 1927. Hadley married again, six years later. But the image persists of a young woman drying her hair in the sunshine while her groom waits down the country road in a little church, anticipating the start of a new adventure. Several places hold keys to Hemingway’s incredible life. Some lay claim to his life’s endings. We celebrate his beginnings. Historical anecdotes based on “Ernest Miller Hemingway: A Workbook” by J.C. Simmons

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth.com. debwf@traversemagazine.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Up North. THE ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT ISSUE FILMMAKERS | AUTHORS | ARTISTS | MUSICIANS

Fun Fact: “The Cold and The Quiet,” a 2013 film Katie Jones co-wrote and starred in, was shown at the Frankfort Film Festival.

THE GARDEN IS GROWING by CARLY SIMPSON

Meet Katie Jones, the first executive director of Frankfort’s Garden Theater.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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photo by Dave Weidner

ig things are happening at the corner of 3rd and Main. The Garden Theater, opened in August 1924, is getting much-needed renovations ahead of next month’s Frankfort Film Festival (Oct. 21–24), thanks to a successful $2.1 million capital campaign completed this summer. The restorations include a structurally sound roof and foundation supports, plus ADA accessibility, stage upgrades, marquee repairs and more. It couldn’t be a better start for Katie Jones, who took the reins in June—the same day renovations began. A writer, actress and producer, Katie lived and worked in Los Angeles and Nashville before heading north. “When I heard the coolest old theater, The Garden, in my favorite place in the world, Frankfort, was looking for an executive director, it seemed like kismet,” she says. “There are so many things I’m looking forward to—getting to know the members of this community, who have already been so supportive, and enjoying the shared experience of art in its different forms with them, are at the top of the list.” So, what are Katie’s plans? She fills us in. Q. What's your vision for The Garden? A. I want The Garden to be the community hub of Frankfort and surrounding areas. I want locals and vacationers alike to look up what is 9

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Up North happening at the theater every day for something to do. Whether it be a playgroup for toddlers, after-school program, lecture series or big opening movie weekends, I want it to be a place that feels alive with events all the time. I also want The Garden to bring more commerce to Main Street, not just in the summer, but year-round. And music, I want to bring music to our stage. Q. Is there a general timeline in mind? A. The restorations are projected to be completed in early fall. We look forward to the Frankfort Film Festival being a celebratory event where we get to showcase our newly renovated building. We’re also looking ahead to more holiday events this year; stay tuned. Q. What role do theaters play in our lives, especially in small towns? A. The arts in any capacity are a portal to the world at large. They provide a way to explore and participate without travel. Theaters are direct conduits for this exposure. They also deepen cultural roots in a town by providing a space where people can gather and share in artistic events. The very foundation of community is created by stories of these experiences that get passed down from generation to generation. Small town theaters have the opportunity to be the cornerstone of their communities by connecting people, creating likeness amongst them and syncing them to the rest of the world.

Casual Elegant Fashions from Head to Toe State and Main Streets • Harbor Springs 231.526.6914 • hildaharbor@gmail.com Open Daily 10am-5pm • Sunday 12pm-4pm

Q. You have a four-generation connection to the Frankfort area. Fill us in. A. Northern Michigan has been the most constant place in my life. I have spent every summer up here for some period of time since birth. My husband started coming here with me 12 years ago, and Northern Michigan gave him that same sense of home. The beauty in nature is our touchpoint. It’s where we find peace, family and community. The past year really challenged us to consider why we’re not in this environment full time. It brings me unimaginable joy seeing my kids have everyday experiences that I once waited all year for: boat rides, beach days, forest exploring and dinners with grandparents and great-grandparents.

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^ NEW UP NORTH A monthly column highlighting new businesses and community updates. BAHIA 127 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY

A Spanish-Latin fusion restaurant with family-style indoor and outdoor seating and a menu focused on tapas and shared small plates. Located in the former RAM’S space. facebook.com/BahiaTraverseCity CROWN AND CORK 502 W. LOOMIS ST., LUDINGTON

This waterfront restaurant and bar, located across from the marina, opened at the end of May. The menu is refined but approachable with items like beer-battered cauliflower, roasted bone marrow with lemon vinaigrette and shrimp and grits with crumbled chorizo. And … get ready … dueling pianos on Saturday evenings from 7–10 p.m. crownncork.com THE RIDGE AT VERTERRA 8080 N. SWEDE RD., NORTHPORT

Verterra Winery opened a second location for wine tastings at its satellite location, The Ridge. The vineyard-lined property has hosted weddings for four years, but just recently opened to the public in June for flights, glass and bottle service in a three-season tent with views of Grand Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan. Open seasonally through Oct. 16. verterrawinery.com THE PIG 'N' WHISTLE 219 N. MAIN ST., CHEBOYGAN

A cocktails and confectionary shop with Mackinac Island fudge and other sweets, plus pig-themed treasures. The business is also a gateway to the Lark Theater, which hosts a variety of live musical performances. Know of a business that just opened or have a fun community update? Let us know at editorial@traversemagazine.com.

AWARD-WINNING AUTHORS & A LESSON FROM BIGFOOT Darrin Brege and Karen BellBrege were recently honored with the 2021 Gwen Frostic Award from the Michigan Reading Association, which recognizes people who have made a profound impact by inspiring literacy for students, parents, teachers and administrators. Their popular Michigan-based picture book “Bigfoot and the Mitten” tells the tale of a Bigfoot who lost his mitten, and a sassy robin who agrees to help him find it. The duo travels across Michigan, from Sleeping Bear Dunes to Traverse City and Mackinac Island to Detroit, without any luck. They finally decide to go to Lansing to ask for help. A woman pulls down a map of the state and points out that Bigfoot didn't lose his mitten; in fact, he’s had it the whole time. The mitten is his home. New this fall, Bigfoot and the robin team up again in “Biggie and Birdie are Different (so what).” The book “goes with these crazy times,” Karen says. “It's about Bigfoot, who wants to be friends with the robin, yet she has no interest because they are just too different. He likes pizza, she likes worms ... until they realize that even though they look different, inside they are exactly the same. They both have hearts, brains and feelings—so then, yes, they can be friends.” Darrin and Karen met while doing comedy downstate at Mark Ridley's Comedy Castle. Karen had an improv troupe and was a communications specialist for Chrysler, and Darrin was a full-time artist doing work for Disney, Hasbro and more. Both had also done voice-over impersonations for radio, commercials and computer games. They decided to put their skills together and write children's books—14 books later, they’re still going strong. Besides writing books, they also do school visits (on hold due to the pandemic). “We inspire the students to follow their dreams while sharing some basics on how to write and illustrate,” Karen says. “We also instill the importance of reading and wrap it up with comedy because we believe that if they're laughing, then they're learning.” karenanddarrin.com -C.S.

A LOCAL LIBRARY HITS THE ROAD Traverse Area District Library (TADL) is making a 20-year dream come true: a bookmobile. The van will have a hotspot, offering WiFi to anyone nearby, a computer to check Bookmobile, 1964 out books and a fold-out awning on one side. The bookmobile’s schedule will be created with input from library leadership and based on community need, then posted online. TADL plans to have an interactive map to show where the bookmobile is, thanks to GPS on board. The goals are to reach areas of the district that don’t have a library close by and to prioritize access for others who have difficulty physically accessing library buildings. To fund the project, TADL received a $50,000 grant from Rotary Charities and built a match with current library resources, as well as donations from other individuals and groups. Future ideas include a mobile tech station with computers, printers and more. Learn more and find the bookmobile's schedule at tadl.org/ontheroad. –C.S. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Up North

THE NEW

PINE PERFORMANCE CENTER

he erickson center for the arts, a nonprofit dedicated to enriching Eastern Upper Peninsula communities through artistic and cultural exhibitions and programs, recently opened the state-of-the-art Pine Performance Center in the village of Curtis. “With the addition of a new theater and the existing Erickson Center building, Curtis is poised to become a cultural center and travel destination in the Eastern Upper Peninsula, bringing more tourists and residents to our area,” says Board Chairman Tom Linscheid. The $1.65 million facility boasts a 160-seat theater with graduated permanent seating, a large stage and lobby and backstage dressing rooms for artists and performers. Construction began in the spring of 2020 and was completed in late May 2021. Find upcoming events at the center, such as concerts and musicals, at MyNorthTickets.com and learn more at ericksoncenter.org. -C.S.

photos courtesy of Erickson Center for the Arts

ARTISTS FOR WINGS OF WONDER As reported in our July issue, the Leelanau County-based nonprofit Wings of Wonder and the Little Traverse Bay Bands (LTBB) of Odawa Indians are partnering to build the first tribal eagle aviary and rehabilitation center east of the Mississippi River. The Migizi Aviary will be located north of Harbor Springs on LTBB land. In support of this incredible project, Higher Art Gallery in Traverse City is donating proceeds from its annual community fundraiser exhibit to help build the aviary (it will break ground once it’s secured the first $200,000). Gallery owner/artist Shanny Brooke has

invited more than a dozen artists, many of whom are Native American, to create raptor-themed art, which will be sold and a percentage gifted to Wings of Wonder. “For this event and all the community fundraisers we have done in the past with FLOW, we connect the power of art with local good causes,” Shanny says. A ticketed event will be held on Sept. 10 (proceeds also being donated) with live music, raffles, a Native American dance performance and, of course, art. Tickets are available at MyNorthTickets.com. The exhibit will be displayed at the gallery and open to the public through Sept. 30. higherartgallery.com; wingsofwonder.org -C.S. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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TIX Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

September WED

Spend the month of September enjoying exclusive benefits at more than 20 participating wineries along the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail during the annual Harvest Days event. Sept. 1–30. MyNorthTickets.com

WED

The Traverse City Fall Horse Shows begin today with various categories of competition, cash prizes and a live stream available for most events. traversecityhorseshows.com

SAT

SUN

The Insiders present the premier Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers experience. With six veteran musicians and decades of combined stage and touring experience, The Insiders are genuinely running down the dream. Catch them at Coyote Crossing Resort in Cadillac. MyNorthTickets.com The 4th Annual B3 Festival (Beer, Blues & Barbecue) takes place on the slopes of Treetops Resort in Gaylord. Featuring live music and a large variety of Michigan craft brews along with the annual pig roast. MyNorthTickets.com

SUN

In Frankfort, on the shores of Lake Michigan, athletes will compete in the inaugural event of IRONMAN 70.3 Michigan. Race hard so you can take it easy later with sand between your toes. ironman.com/im703-michigan

WED

When it comes time to prune a native tree or shrub, knowing a few basic techniques can help you maintain a pleasing shape and protect your investment. Free Zoom class available through Plant It Wild, a nonprofit based in Benzie and Manistee counties. plantitwild.net

THU

The Paddle Antrim Festival celebrates the amazing waterways of Northern Michigan with a twoday paddle event on the Chain of Lakes Water Trail. This chooseyour-own-adventure paddle provides the opportunity for you to go anywhere from 7-42 miles. Sept. 16–18. paddleantrim.com

FRI

After 18 months of performing virtually, Michigan songwriter May Erlewine returns to live venues this September at Crooked Tree Arts Center in Petoskey. May is crafting an intimate set list that honors all we’ve been through and welcomes us into the new now. MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

Visit downtown Ludington for Octoberfest, featuring a chili walk, kids games, live music, German-themed food and beer. pureludington.com

Please note, as these dates approach, some events may be modified, postponed or canceled to protect the safety of both event organizers and attendees. Check online or call ahead to confirm details. For current community happenings throughout the year, visit MyNorth.com/ Northern-Michigan-Events.

photo by Kelly Rewa

edited b y LIBBY STALLMAN

FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS

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Events

6 SCRUMPTIOUS EVENTS by CARLY SIMPSON

Add these tours, festivals and soirées to your September calendar. 9/2, 16 & 30: Craft & Sip

9/11: U.P. Fall Beer Festival

9/3: Black Star Farms Estate & Wine Tour

9/18: Taste of Harbor Springs

9/4: Minnehaha Brewhaha Music Festival

Located in Manistee's historic downtown along the Riverwalk, the annual Hops & Props event pairs classic Century boats with Michigan craft beer, cider, wine and spirits. MyNorthTickets.com

photo by Rachel Soulliere

Craft & Sip at Otsego Resort in Gaylord offers an evening of creativity and refreshments with a new project each week. No experience necessary and all supplies provided. Sept. 2, 16, 30. MyNorthTickets.com Go behind the scenes and experience Black Star Farms in Suttons Bay in a whole new way. This one-hour guided walking tour includes the estate's centennial barn, vineyard and wine cave. An informative wine and spirits tasting, hosted by your guide, follows the tour. Multiple dates available in September and October. MyNorthTickets.com This year, the fest will be spread out over two days. Friday is free admission and Saturday requires a ticket. Music and local beer tastings at Arcadia Marine. MyNorthTickets.com

The U.P. Fall Beer Festival is held at the scenic Mattson Lower Harbor Park overlooking Lake Superior. Attendees can choose from a selection of 600 craft beers from 80 Michigan breweries, plus local eats and a talented line-up of musicians. travelmarquette.com

With a delicious history of great flavors, the annual Taste of Harbor Springs is one of the most popular events in the area. This celebration marks 26 years of raising funds for culinary scholarships. harborspringschamber.com 9/18: Hops & Props on the River

FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS

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2021

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Travel

24 HOURS IN PENTWATER by CARLY SIMPSON

Where to stay, play and eat on a weekend getaway to this charming lakeside village.

n pentwater, the sunsets are so stunning people actually applaud them, and there’s a nearby restaurant with fish and chips that rivals England’s. For more insider travel tips, we asked the owners of Hexagon House Bed & Breakfast, Michelle and Brendan McLaughlin, about how they spend a day in the “pearl” of Michigan’s west coast. STAY: HEXAGON HOUSE

Fittingly located on 6th Street, the six-sided Hexagon House Bed & Breakfast was built in the 1890s and purchased in April by Michelle and Brendan, who moved from England to be closer to family. Also fitting, Michelle’s 25 years of experience working with period properties—some dating back 500 years—thanks to a previous career flipping houses. “You never really own an old house, you’re just the caretaker, and each owner adds their own style,” she says. And Michelle certainly has style. They've replaced the carpets, upgraded all the bedding and towels, had bespoke robes made, use a signature “Pentwater Scent” created by a local shop, Birch Michigan, and are working on new bathrooms for several of the rooms and a new kitchen this winter. The Hexagon House has five rental rooms and a two-bedroom cottage that will be available next year for weekly rentals once it’s been remodeled. Another perk, a six-sided building has room for 4,000 square feet of wrap-around porches. hexagonhouse.com PLAY: PENTWATER BEACH

photo by Taylor Brown

The McLaughlin's favorite thing to do is take a walk along a channel that runs along the Pentwater River to Lake Michigan, ending at the public beach in Charles Mears State Park. “We have traveled a lot and I honestly think the sunsets here are the best anywhere in the world,” Michelle says. And while you’ll definitely want to be here when the sun goes down, also come during the day to take a dip in the water and grab lunch at Chuck’s Beach Store. The concession stand serves rice bowls, tacos and quesadillas, plus panwiches (pancake sandwiches) and more. In the evening, Chuck’s offers pizza by the slice after 5:30 p.m. chucksbeachstore.com EAT: BORTELL'S FISHERIES & GULL LANDING

You’ll have to visit soon if you want to try the fish and chips from Bortell’s—and trust us, you do—as the seasonal business closes after Labor Day Weekend. Bortell's is technically in the neighboring city of Ludington, but it's actually a little closer to downtown Pentwater. Dinner baskets include a ½ pound of fish, fries and coleslaw, but make sure you bring cash or check—debit and credit cards aren’t accepted. “Being from

England, we like having fish and chips on a Friday night, and we were blown away by Bortell’s,” Michelle says. “And yes, it’s as good as home!” A year-round favorite, Gull Landing serves Great Lakes perch (when available) that's dipped in lager, rolled in a dill and herb batter and deepfried until golden. Pair it with a seat on the patio overlooking Pentwater Lake. facebook.com/bortellsfisheries; gulllanding.com GET AROUND: TAXI, PLEASE!

In Pentwater, people who live on the south and west sides of Pentwater Lake, and on South and Oceana beaches, hop aboard a water taxi, and Captain Lee Price motors them to town. This fun mode of transportation was born out of a need to easily access downtown during a road construction project in 2019, and luckily it made a splash. For those visiting the area, reserve a spot on a sunset or history cruise and you’ll be treated to beautiful views of Pentwater Lake, the channel and, on good-weather days, Lake Michigan. Each cruise costs $10 per person, with a maximum of 16 people. Departure times are posted on the “Pentwater Water Taxi” Facebook page. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Up in Michigan

A LIFE DEDICATED TO WILDLIFE by TED WENDLING

A Traverse City animal activist uses images and words to advocate for the protection of the world’s precious creatures.

photo by Kimberli Bindschatel

he epigraph in the first of Kimberli Bindschatel’s seven adventure novels about a crusading U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service agent who hunts down animal traffickers comes from Mahatma Ghandi: “The greatness of a nation can be judged by the way its animals are treated.” If so, by Bindschatel’s reckoning, we have a long way to go to make America great. Bindschatel is a writer, wildlife photographer and animal-rights activist in Traverse City whose email signoff reveals her lifelong passion: “For the animals.” Whether they walk, crawl, fly, swim or slither, animals fascinate her, and she is committed to their welfare and protection. She has photographed grizzly bears in Alaska’s Katmai National Park and scarlet macaws in Corcovado National Park in Costa Rica. She has published an award-winning nature journal, “Whisper in the Woods,” that was promoted by former Gov. Jennifer Granholm and the Pure Michigan campaign. And vicariously, through Special Agent Poppy McVie—a “fiery bundle of badass” character in her novels who is part cop and part vigilante—she has busted turtle egg traffickers in Mexico, hunted down a mysterious nighttime killer of livestock in Idaho and shut down an orca poaching operation in Norway. In her adventure novels, Bindschatel is “saving animals, one book at a time” through a modernday heroine who is in love with Dalton, a fellow agent and retired Navy SEAL; drinks good wine

(Chateau Montelena cab) and eats good (vegetarian) food; pals around with her best friend, Chris, a gay male flight attendant; and busts bad guys (imagine Indiana Jones as a Fish & Wildlife agent). Bindschatel, 50, took a circuitous route to her career as a writer. She grew up in Clio, spent her summers at Sand Lake near East Tawas and moved to Traverse City in 1999. While pursuing her early dream of becoming a photographer for National Geographic (and realizing “everybody else has the same dream”), she filled in as Ollie the Otter, the mascot at the Boardman River Nature Center and was a volunteer photographer for the Cherryland Humane Society in Traverse City. In 2002, she decided to combine her love of animals and photography by publishing “Whisper in the Woods,” a glossy quarterly magazine that featured stunning photographs of Michigan wildlife and landscapes, along with snippets of poetry and essays about nature. “I think she has a really good eye for composition and design,” says Dean Pennala, a professional nature photographer whose work was published in “Whisper in the Woods” and who taught two photography workshops with Bindschatel at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. “She’s a wonderful person and I would label her a life-long learner. She takes risks, she’s smart and she’s really talented.” Bindschatel’s biggest coup was persuading Dewitt Jones, a legendary Nat Geo photographer and motivational speaker, to contribute to her magazine. “The part of her that is the most amazing is her love of the wilderness and animals,” says Jones. “I know many people who are interested in the wilderness and animals, but she actually went out and did something about it. She’s sparkling and fun and goes after things with a relish and a flair and the tenacity of a wolverine.” Despite Bindschatel’s tenacity, “Whisper in the Woods” fell prey to the recession after six years of publication. As ad revenue began plummeting and the cost of paper soared, Bindschatel was forced to pull the plug on her magazine in 2008. It broke her heart. “I had feelings of failure,” she says. “Yeah, I could blame it on the recession, but I hadn’t built a strong enough foundation with the business. I probably needed more money and a bigger business model. I was flying by the seat of my pants.” Feeling lost, Bindschatel told her husband, Ken, that she was going to fly to Costa Rica and try to figure out what to do with her life. “I didn’t have a hotel booked,” she says. “I just got on a plane with a backpack . . . and decided to try to find out what to do with my life and get over the disappointment.” NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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WHEN OUR CLIENTS SPEAK, WE LISTEN.

She returned to Traverse City two weeks later and began pecking out her first novel, “The Path to the Sun,” a fantasy about a 16-year-old orphan who embarks on a quest with six other It’s a simple but effective way of helping people reach their teens to save his drought-stricken vilfinancial goals - and it’s a way of doing business that Raymond lage. While working on that book, the character of Poppy McVie—a fearless James has pioneered for more than 50 years. Make your voice female federal agent who forces a boa count. Partner with one of our financial advisors and get constrictor to disgorge a balloon filled guidance that’s in tune with your life. LIFE WELL PLANNED. with drugs, and lobs balloons filled with liquid goat dung at evil Russian Maggie Beeler, AAMS®, CRPC® Jeff K. Pasche, CFA® spies who endanger dolphins—began Investment Portfolio Associate Senior Vice President, Investments to form in her mind. Western Michigan Complex Manager Shelley A. Stefanits “I was thinking that if I had made Complex Administrator Manager Susan G. Carlyon, WMS different choices and was braver or West Michigan Complex Senior Vice President, Investments younger, I could have been her,” Binds® Wealth Management Specialist chatel says. “One of the things I wanted Courtney C. Davis to explore was how someone who loves Client Service Associate James Spencer, ChFC®, AAMS® animals like I do would handle seeing Financial Advisor Barbara S. Shellman, MBA animals in such predicaments.” Sr. Registered Stoops, AWMA Bindschatel also teaches a Women Paul M.Client Bonaccini Jeff K.JimPasche, CFA®, CRPC® Service Associate First Vice President, Investments on the Water sailing class in Traverse Vice President, Investments Senior Vice President, Investments City, helping women learn to enjoy a ® ® Jennifer Youker, CFP , CRPC Accredited Asset Management Specialist Manager sport that has long been dominated byTraverse City Complex Financial Advisor men. In 2013, she and her husband Tyne Hyslop Dennis J. Brodeur bought a Hunter 40 sailboat they have Financial Advisor used to cruise the Great Lakes. Binds- Vice President, Investments chatel says she was inspired to teach by Wealth Management Specialist Jennifer Youker, CFP®, CRPC® the documentary film Maiden, a harFinancial Advisor Trevis E. Gillow rowing account of 26-year-old Tracey Edwards and her all-women crew’s Vice President, Investments Eric H. Palo stunning leg victories in the 1989-90 Wealth Management Specialist Whitbread Round the World Race. Financial Advisor “It was tangible what those women Susan Carlyon James Spencer, ChFC, AAMS did to change the perception of women, not only in sailing, but in life,”First Vice President, Investments Associate Vice President, Investments she says. “To me, that was what was so Wealth Management Specialist Robert Fenton inspiring. I want tangible markers that Keith Carlyon what I’m doing is important, and I Financial Advisor don’t always have them. Are there Senior Vice President, Investments women out there who will be the next Jane Goodall because they read my book? I don’t know. Am I making a difference for animals? I believe in the power of stories to influence people. But am I making a difference? I don’t know. I hope so.” Ted Wendling moved to Traverse City after he retired in 2017 as the supervisor of administrative investigations at the Ohio Department of Public Safety. Prior to that, he had a 28-year career as a reporter and editor in Ohio, primarily at the Cleveland Plain Dealer.

13818 S West13818 Bay Shore Traverse MI 49684 (231) 946-3650 S WestDr Bay• Shore Dr. •City, Traverse City, MI •49684 (231) 946-3650 • www.raymondjames.com/Traverse-City ©2015 Raymond James & Associates, Inc., member New York Stock Exchange/SIPC. Raymond James® is a registered trademark of Raymond James Financial, Inc. 15-BDMKT-1770 ME/CW 4/15

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NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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To Market !

LEAVE YOUR MEAL PLANS BEHIND and head to the NEAREST FARMERS MARKET to let the FARMERS AND THEIR PRODUCE SET THE MENU for a FRESHLY HARVESTED MEAL.

by ELIZABETH EDWARDS / photos by ANDY WAKEMAN and TIM HUSSEY

rue farm-to-fork chefs don’t plan their daily menus until they’ve visited their local farmers market to find out not just what is in season, but also which fruits and veggies have reached their absolute zenith of ripeness that day. With the cornucopia of farmers markets stretching across Northern Michigan, from Marquette to Ludington, being your own best chef is a breeze. In late summer, when the harvest is at its peak, the markets are in full swing. Meet the farmers, rancher and cheesemaker that inspired this memorable harvest meal!

Above, clockwise: Leelanau Piedmontese steak with Leelanau Savory’s pesto; grilled peaches from Bakker’s Acres; tomato pie made with tomatoes from TLC Farms; grilled corn from Bakker’s Acres; Boss Mouse Smoked Butter. Opposite: Radishes from Second Spring Farm.

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LEELANAU PIEDMONTESE BEEF Locally raised grass-fed beef, including Leelanau Piedmontese, is becoming a common commodity at Northern Michigan farmers markets. Craig and Karen Olmsted have been raising the rare breed of cattle from the Piedmont region of Italy for nearly 30 years. The cattle are known for their lean meat—the result of their inactive myostatin gene. The Olmsteds sell both solely grass-fed beef as well as beef fed on grass and organic, non-GMO corn (which adds a bit of fat to the meat). Craig is especially partial to a Peidmontese rib steak, so we took his advice and heated up the grill with delish results.

FIND Leelanau Piedmontese Beef at these farmers markets: Empire, Glen Arbor, Leland, Northport, Suttons Bay

Grilled Piedmont Steak with Leelanau Savory’s Genovese Basil & Parmigiano Reggiano Pesto 6 Leelanau Piedmontese ribeye steaks 1 3.5-ounce tub of Leelanau Savory’s Genovese Basil & Parmigiano Reggiano Pesto, room temperature Heat the grill and place steaks on it. Since Piedmontese beef is so lean, Craig tells us it will cook faster than other beef. His rule of thumb for a medium-rare steak is to grill it for two to four minutes per side, depending on the thickness. Once off the grill, plate it up and slather it with the pesto as you would a chimichurri sauce.

LEELANAU SAVORY’S

No doubt, you’ve tasted pesto. But if you’ve never tasted Leelanau Savory’s pesto then you’ve never really tasted pesto. Theresa Olesky, the mother of this basil divinity, has masterminded 10 pesto varieties with a twist: she adds cheeses. The varieties include two types of Parmesan, two types of feta, raclette, havarti and gouda. We took home a tub of Genovese Parmesan Pesto but plan on eating our way down the list in the near future. Whatever flavor you choose, dip bread into it, toss pasta in it, dress a salad with it—the options are endless. We decided to slather our Piedmontese ribeye steak with it.

FIND Leelanau Savory’s at these farmers markets: Glen Arbor, Northport, Suttons Bay Left: Theresa Olesky of Leelanau Savory’s with her homemade pesto.

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2021

NORTHERN MICHIGAN

LATE-SUMMER FARMERS MARKET CALENDAR

BOYNE CITY: VETERAN’S PARK: WEDNESDAYS 8 A.M.–NOON, SATURDAYS 7:30 A.M.–NOON, THRU MID-OCTOBER. BOYNE CITY TOWN HALL: SATURDAYS 9 A.M.–NOON, AFTER MID-OCTOBER THRU MID-MAY.

BAKKER’S ACRES This family farm/orchard specializes in fruit—gorgeous raspberries, luscious peaches and those sexy new apples on the block, Honeycrisp and SweeTango. But we’ve long loved the sweet, fat ears of corn they sell, a variety called butter and sugar. It turns out their neighbors actually grow the corn and the Bakkers take it to the market for them. This corn is always great boiled, but this time we grilled it and melted Boss Mouse Smoked Butter (page 26) all over it. Yum.

FIND Bakker’s Acres at these farmers markets: Empire, Glen Arbor, Leland, Northport, Suttons Bay and Traverse City in the fall

CHARLEVOIX: BRIDGE STREET: THURSDAYS THRU OCTOBER 7, 8 A.M.–1 P.M. FERRY BEACH: MONDAYS THRU SEPTEMBER 6, 4–7 P.M.

ELBERTA: WATERFRONT PARK: THURSDAYS THRU OCTOBER 7, 9 A.M.–NOON.

ELK RAPIDS: ELK RAPIDS CHAMBER, 305 US-31 NORTH: FRIDAYS THRU OCTOBER 8, 8 A.M.–NOON.

EMPIRE: FRONT STREET: SATURDAYS THRU SEPTEMBER 12, 9 A.M.–1 P.M.

FRANKFORT: OPEN SPACE PARK ON MAIN STREET: SATURDAYS THRU OCTOBER, 9 A.M.–1 P.M.

GLEN ARBOR: GLEN ARBOR TOWNSHIP HALL: TUESDAYS THRU SEPTEMBER 8, 9 A.M.–1 P.M.

HARBOR SPRINGS: WEST MAIN STREET: SATURDAYS THRU OCTOBER 16, 8 A.M.–1 P.M. INTERLOCHEN: 2112 M-137: SUNDAYS THRU OCTOBER, 9 A.M.–2 P.M.

LELAND: 102 RIVER ST.: THURSDAYS THRU SEPTEMBER 9, 9 A.M.–1 P.M.

LUDINGTON: NORTH JAMES STREET PLAZA: FRIDAYS THRU SEPTEMBER, 3–7 P.M.

NORTHPORT: 105 SOUTH BAY ST.: FRIDAYS THRU SEPTEMBER 10, 9 A.M.–1 P.M. PETOSKEY: HOWARD STREET BETWEEN MITCHELL AND MICHIGAN STREETS: FRIDAYS THRU SEPTEMBER 24, 8:30 A.M.–1 P.M. SUTTONS BAY: ST. JOSEPH STREET: SATURDAYS THRU OCTOBER 31, 9 A.M.–1 P.M. ST. IGNACE: 62 NORTH STATE ST.: THURSDAYS THRU SEPTEMBER, 4–7 P.M. TRAVERSE CITY: SARA HARDY MARKET: WEDNESDAYS 8 A.M.–NOON, SATURDAYS 7:30 A.M.–NOON THRU OCTOBER, PARKING LOT B, SOUTHWEST CORNER OF E. GRAND TRAVERSE PARKWAY @ CASS STREET. VILLAGE OUTDOOR MARKET: MONDAYS 2–6 P.M., THRU OCTOBER, RED DRIVE, VILLAGE AT GRAND TRAVERSE COMMONS. VILLAGE INDOOR MARKET: SATURDAYS 10 A.M.–2 P.M., NOVEMBER–MAY, MERCATO

MARQUETTE: 112 SOUTH THIRD ST.: SATURDAYS THRU OCTOBER, 9 A.M.–1 P.M., WEDNESDAYS THRU SEPTEMBER 15, 5–7 P.M.

Grilled Bakker’s Acres Corn on the Cob with Smoked Butter 12 ears of Bakker’s Acres corn 1/3 pound block of Boss Mouse Smoked Butter, room temperature Peel the husks back leaving them attached at the base of the cob. Remove all silk—first by hand then by rubbing the cob with a nubby kitchen towel. Pull the husks back over the ears and soak the ears in cold water for about an hour. Place on a hot grill and turn every couple of minutes until the kernels begin to char. Serve with Boss Mouse Smoked Butter.

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“Smoked butter is cosmic, used in everything from sautéed mushrooms to scrambled eggs.” BOSS MOUSE SMOKED BUTTER Cheesemongers and their locally made artisanal cheeses are popping up in Northern Michigan farmers markets. Sue Kurta’s Boss Mouse Cheese was one of the first, and it didn’t take long before her cheesemaking talents developed a fan following. But since Kurta has started cold-smoking butter over apple wood at her production facility in Kingsley, her fans have bordered on Beatlemania. Smoked butter is cosmic, used in everything from sautéed mushrooms to scrambled eggs. But smearing it over corn on the cob is hands-down the most scrumptious way to use it.

FIND Boss Mouse Cheese at these farmers markets: Elk Rapids, Elberta, Frankfort, Glen Arbor

SECOND SPRING FARM The Second Spring stall is always heaped with fruits and veggies from the Cedar-based farm. Market master Joey Corcoran was up to his elbows helping customers when we stopped by. Nevertheless, he took a moment to chat about some recipe ideas for using his produce. When he introduced us to the farm’s sweet watermelons, a variety called Little Baby Flower, and told me about a friend who’d made a watermelon cocktail from a melon he’d bought from Second Spring Farm—suffice it to say, it turned cocktail time at my home into happy hour.

FIND Second Spring Farm at these farmers markets: Glen Arbor, Northport, Traverse City

Watermelon Cocktail Makes 4 to 6 cocktails

8 cups of cubed watermelon from Second Spring Farm 2 Tablespoons lime juice 2 Tablespoons honey or maple syrup 1 cup vodka Fresh Mint for garnish Put the first three ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Pour through a sieve to remove pulp and seeds. Mix with the vodka. Pour over ice and garnish with fresh mint.

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Morning dawns on Traverse City’s Sara Hardy Downtown Farmer’s Market.

TLC FARMS Four years ago, Joe Vanderbosch and his wife, Anne Cunningham, traded their professional careers for lives as hydroponic tomato farmers. The tomatoes at their TLC Farms are watered every 30 minutes with a solution that includes calcium, iron and magnesium—making them extremely nutritious and incredibly delicious. Joe and Anne grow mostly beefsteak, roma and cherry tomatoes, but chances are you’ll find some heirloom varieties among the mountains of produce that mark their farmers market stands. And if you’re lucky, Anne will have set out a few “catfaced” (a tomato deformity) tomatoes at a seriously marked down price. A brawny TLC beefsteak tomato with a catface inspired this airy, juicy tomato pie.

FIND TLC Farms at these farmers markets: Glen Arbor, Northport, Suttons Bay, Traverse City (Wednesdays only)

Crustless Tomato Pie

1–2 TLC beefsteak tomatoes, thinly sliced 2 teaspoons salt 1 Tablespoon olive oil, plus extra for greasing pan 1/2 cup diced white onion 1 clove garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1/2 cup chopped basil leaves 2-3 cups grated mozzarella cheese 2-3 free-range eggs

Place sliced tomato(es) on a baking sheet, sprinkle them with salt, then cover with several layers of paper towel. Let them stand for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, sauté the onion and garlic until translucent and let cool. Combine the eggs, onion, garlic, pepper and basil. Line a lightly greased baking dish (approximately 13x9x2 inches) with one layer of tomatoes and pour half the egg mixture over it. Repeat. Bake at 350 degrees for about 30 minutes or until brown on top.

Elizabeth Edwards is Senior Editor of Traverse Magazine. lissa@traversemagazine.com Andy Wakeman is a Northern Michigan-based photographer inspired by the characters and scenic views of his hometown. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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leelanau PA D D L E T H E P E N I N S U L A’S C RYSTA L C L E A R L A K E S A N D R I V E R S .

by P H O T O S B Y J O N R . C O N S TA N T

kayak E XC E R P T E D F R O M “ L E E L A N A U B Y K AYA K ” B Y J O N R . C O N S TA N T W I T H L A R R Y B U R N S / P U B L I S H E D BY M I S S I O N P O I N T P R E S S

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on Constant was so inspired by his picturesque Leelanau paddles, that he decided to capture the breathtaking views, challenges and advice for traversing the peninsula’s waterways in his book, “Leelanau By Kayak.” This collection of 37 uniquely scenic trips—along the Lake Michigan shore, across inland lakes and down pristine rivers—is presented with stunning photos, handy tips and stories from Jon and his longtime friend and kayaking partner, Larry Burns. Jon’s connection to the water runs deep—he grew up in Grand Haven and vacationed with his family on Little Glen Lake in the mid-1960s. He eventually bought a home on Cedar Lake and became a social studies teacher at Traverse City Central High School for 38 years, and coached football and basketball, the latter with Larry. After both retired from their teaching and coaching careers, Jon and Larry found time in their 60s and 70s to paddle (and document) the entire 100-mile perimeter of Leelanau, as well as its lakes and rivers. We share a handful of those paddles here. – Allison Jarrell Jon and Larry kayak Sleeping Bear Dunes toward Pierce Stocking Overlook.

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leelanau shoreline SLEEPING BEAR DUNES

or years I visited the Pierce Stocking Overlook perched high over the seemingly endless horizon of Lake Michigan, and would often see kayakers paddling in the water way down below. Wouldn’t it be fun, I’d say to myself, if I could be down there looking up at the people like me? Eventually I got that chance. This is my all-time favorite Leelanau paddling location. The experience of paddling on such a big body of water with a wall of sand stretching for miles on one side of your kayak is as good as it ever gets. If you can go when conditions are accommodating, you will have the paddle of a lifetime. We’ve been fortunate that all three of our paddles to “The Bear” were in the best of conditions. Location: Just north of Empire and extending to Glen Haven.

Sleeping Bear Dunes is Jon’s all-time favorite place to kayak in Leelanau.

Access: Cannery Boathouse Museum parking lot

in Glen Haven; Life Saving Station Museum parking lot (closer to Sleeping Bear Point); Lake Michigan Beach Park in Empire; North Bar Lake beach north of Empire.

Distance/Time: Empire to Glen Haven: 9 miles,

3 hours (one way); Empire to Pierce Stocking Overlook: 2 miles, 1 hour (round trip); Glen Haven to Pierce Stocking Overlook: 5 miles, 4 hours (round trip).

Strategies: If you’re using just one vehicle to trans-

port your kayaks, it’s important to consider wind direction and wind speeds. The best conditions would be light winds from the east. If you’re putting in at Glen Haven and heading south to Empire, a southerly or easterly wind is preferable.

Highlight: The massive sand dune around the Over-

look is an amazing thing to see from a kayak. This wall of sand extends for several miles, from just south of the Overlook, all the way to Sleeping Bear Point. These dunes are called perched sand dunes, or dunes that develop on a pre-existing hill or cliff. Here, the existing cliff is the rock and residue left from the action of the last glacier, about 10,000 years ago. There are also many lower sand dunes as you paddle closer to Glen Haven.

View of the bluffs kayaking from Leland north to Clay Cliffs.

LELAND NORTH TO CLAY CLIFFS

his day-trip turned into one of the most pleasant surprises of all our times paddling off the coast of Leelanau. Other areas, like the Sleeping Bear Dunes and Pyramid Point, are much better known and get more visitors, but the colors of the water, sky and wooded shoreline were as good as it gets for kayaking—and for observing nature’s beauty. Location: Clay Cliffs Natural Area is located a

little more than one mile north of Leland, tucked between North Lake Leelanau and Lake Michigan.

Access: Van’s Beach in Leland; the beach at the end of Onomonee Road, located north of M-22 between Leland and Northport.

Distance/Time: The main area of Clay Cliffs

from Van’s Beach: 1.5 miles. It took about 3 hours to paddle from Leland, past Clay Cliffs, to Gills Pier and back.

Strategies: This area’s exposure to winds

from the west, northwest and north means that care must be taken on when to go and which way to paddle. Calm conditions or light winds from the south or east are optimal.

Highlight: Clay Cliffs have their own unique

look. Rugged and worn by the actions of wind and water, the area makes for excellent viewing from the cockpit of a kayak. These bluffs rise almost vertically over 200 feet above the shore. Clay Cliffs Natural Area was preserved in 2013— it’s owned by Leland Township and managed by the Leelanau Conservancy.

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OMENA TO NORTHPORT

his was one of our last paddles on the tour around Leelanau, and it was one of the finest. When you’re traveling by car along M-22 between Omena and Northport, you don’t get to see much of the water or shoreline. Paddling between the two gives you that view, and it is a very interesting one. Location: Omena is 23 miles north of Traverse

City on Omena Bay in Grand Traverse Bay. Northport is 26 miles north of Traverse City on Northport Bay.

Access: Southern access point: The small town-

ship park and beach on Omena Point Road, east of M-22, in Omena’s business district. Parking is across the road from the beach. Northern access point: The Northport public beach just east of the central business district and next to the marina.

Clear turquoise waters abound during a paddle from Omena to Northport. Below: Larry Burns and Jon Constant have paddled the entire Leelanau Peninsula together.

Distance/Time: Approximately 7.5 miles, one way, following the shoreline. It took us 3.5 hours in conditions of slightly increasing winds from the west as we rounded the northern part of Omena Point. Strategies: This section is well protected from winds from the southwest, west and northwest. With a two-vehicle strategy, the direction of the trip could be changed depending on a north or south wind. Highlight: Bellow (or Gull or Trout or Fisher’s) Island is located about 1.5 miles off the Leelanau Peninsula shore and about 3 miles south of Northport. It’s a mysterious-looking island with an abandoned house and two tall chimneys, all visible from your kayak. The Leelanau Conservancy acquired the island in 1995. Discover the island’s curious history at story.mynorth.com/gullisland

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inland lakes BIG GLEN LAKE

ig Glen is big enough that you can spend several days exploring. This lake is one of Michigan’s “must paddle” destinations. There’s great water, great views and some spectacular real estate!

A loon appears during a tranquil Cedar Lake paddle.

Location: About a mile southeast of Glen Arbor, just east of Little Glen Lake and about 20 miles northwest of Traverse City.

Access: Little Glen Lake access on Day Forest

Road; Old Settlers Campground on the southeastern side of Big Glen Lake (just north of Burdickville); county roads that dead end at the lake; on the north shore, next to Glen Craft Marina at the end of South Lake Street; southern access at the end of Agnew Street, north of Burdickville.

Highlight: Big Glen is the deepest (130 feet in some areas) and second largest (4,865 acres) inland lake in Leelanau County. It’s been called the most beautiful lake in the U.S., and it’s hard to argue with that. Set between wooded hills and sandy dunes, its spectacular water can be a Caribbean blue-green color.

Big Glen Lake is considered one of Michigan’s “must paddle” destinations.

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CEDAR LAKE

y favorite smaller lake in Leelanau, Cedar Lake is as unique as it is beautiful, and is the closest to the urban area of Traverse City. Only two miles from the biggest city in Northern Michigan, it can still feel like you are paddling in the Upper Peninsula or Canada—it is that unspoiled. How unusual to find a lake with a shoreline that is almost exactly like it was 100 years ago. And the colors of its water can be brilliant turquoise, bluish-green, much like Torch Lake, Glen Lake or Key West. Location: The extreme southeast corner of Leelanau County, just two miles north and west of Traverse City.

Access: Boat launch at the lake’s south end, accessed off Cherry Bend Road (CR-633). Highlights: This 252-acre lake has 3.9 miles of

shoreline and a maximum depth of 46 feet. The main inlet is in the middle of the lake, on the western shore, and is labeled on maps as Cedar Creek—but it’s called Hines Creek by longtime locals.

river

Above: A Cedar Lake sunset paints the sky during an evening paddle. Left: Crystal River is perfect for off-season kayaking in late summer or fall.

CRYSTAL RIVER

he Crystal River is one of our favorite paddling destinations. You start in a very wild, almost eerie stretch of the river with huge trees—some hanging precariously over the river—then move to a more open, yet still undeveloped stretch that becomes a more developed area before ending in Glen Arbor itself. It might as well be called “The Crooked River,” as it flows 6.4 miles back and forth, to cover only 1.4 miles as the crow flies. This river is a great alternative paddle when the winds are blowing, as it is well protected. It’s our recommendation that you paddle the Crystal during nonpeak times (not July or August)—unless you like crowds. Location: North of Big Glen Lake and Fisher Lake, and south of Sleeping Bear Bay and Glen Arbor.

Access: National Lakeshore’s Fisher Road access, just north of Fisher Lake, near the intersection of Dunn’s Farm Road (CR-675) and Fisher Road. A park pass is required to park here. It took us about two hours to paddle the five miles from put-in to take out. The other option is to use a small, sandy landing near Bay Street in Glen Arbor. Highlights: In the fall, the Crystal can be full of runs of salmon and trout—and the numbers can be amazing. Several of the salmon we observed must have been close to 20 pounds, and a few of them actually “torpedoed” my kayak. I managed to survive.

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MAGIC of the TRAILS ( not so common )

Awe-inspiring hikes—and mystical fairy houses— await you at Grand Traverse Commons Natural Area. By Kim Schneider / Photos by Allison Jarrell 34

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Emma Harrington, 8, and Kinsey Harrington, 8, build a fairy beach house along the fairy trails at The Botanic Garden at Historic Barns Park. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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later, look down. One particularly enchanting section features tiny bungalows made just for fairies and the forest creatures that enjoy the shelter or nibble on the acorn roofs. The magic of these 140 acres of trails dates back to at least the late 1800s. Before forest bathing was a popular concept, a man named Thomas Kirkbride believed immersion in the outdoors was essential for mental health. The 19th-century psychiatrist built villages like the one now 36

known as the Grand Traverse Commons (then the Grand Traverse Asylum) in which those seeking treatment for mental illness would find it amid castle-style architecture, airy light-filled spaces and park-like settings. Patients and staff, and later generations of people drawn to nature, have passed through these forests—first on foot, then adding bikes and skis. But it’s especially fun to check out specific markers like the cistern—now a kind of communal art sculpture coated with colorful graffiti—and think back to the way it once provided water to those state hospital residents. The main walking paths were once roads back to working barns that housed dairy cattle including Traverse Colantha Walker, a grand champion milk cow whose grave is marked with a big tombstone on site. That trees were key to the philosophy is evident in the way the Commons has a map of some 661 individual trees and where they can be found on the grounds—trees like a catalpa and a ginkgo biloba, horse chestnut and sweet gum. Stephanie Witala, venue manager for the Cathedral Barns at the on-site Historic Barns Park and owner of the village’s Sugar 2 Salt (S2S) cafe, says she’s on a private scavenger hunt to find every tree on the map. She also ventures onto the trails regularly—easy because they’re a few steps from her busy restaurant, and the trails make a more natu-

photo by Dave Weidner

ass through a parking lot next to a water tower, enter a trail system in the middle of Traverse City, and those able to think a bit magically are easily convinced they’ve crossed under a tree canopy into Narnia. From hidden streams to meticulously built fairy houses, these trails offer the kind of magic that you expect to see less in an urban center and more in stories of enchantment and mystery. Follow where the weathered, curved fence leads, up a leaf-covered staircase under a canopy of colorful oaks and maples. Then leave the time schedule behind. As you meander the ever-changing trails known as the Grand Traverse Commons Natural Area, you’ll pass springs that bubble up from the earth, orchards holding the promise of a single sweet pear, and a helicopter’s height overlook of Traverse City, its two bays and some hilly farmland well beyond. But

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photo by Dave Weidner

YOU MEANDER THE EVERCHANGING TRAILS KNOWN AS THE GRAND TRAVERSE COMMONS NATURAL AREA, YOU’LL PASS SPRINGS THAT BUBBLE UP FROM THE EARTH, ORCHARDS HOLDING THE PROMISE OF A SINGLE SWEET PEAR, AND A HELICOPTER’S HEIGHT OVERLOOK OF TRAVERSE CITY, ITS TWO BAYS AND SOME HILLY FARMLAND WELL BEYOND. ral route to the grocery store if she’s out of an item. “With all the chaos business life can provide, especially in a restaurant, it’s great to go out in nature and push a reset button,” says Stephanie. “What I love most is the diversity of the trails. There are flat areas, there are hills, there’s a creek and pine trees and cedars, and it opens up to glorious meadows, where it’s breezy and open and sunny. It’s different every single time. It’s different in every season.”

The woods also have fairy trails. Heather Harrington, one-half of the husband-and-wife team behind Life and Whim (lifeandwhim.com), was looking for a way to inspire her three then-toddlers—and other families— to spend more time outdoors when she learned of an island in Maine dotted with fairy houses, or miniature dollhouses of a sort created with materials found in nature and made to be particularly attractive to woodland fairies, should they actually exist. Harrington started a Fairy Fest in Traverse City that at first drew just enough families to make 15 houses along the Commons trails near the water tower. As it grew, the houses moved to more sheltered trails near the botanical gardens. At the most recent fest, some 2,000 people came and 40 or 50 signed up to build houses. Many of the houses you’ll see lining tiny trail paths (safe from bike traffic) were inspired by themes like “Community in Bloom” and “What People Love about Traverse City.” This year’s theme was “A Trip Around the World.” Other fairy houses are crafted over time by anyone who’s interested—school children, groups of friends, sometimes families as a memorial to a loved one lost. Look closely along the trails nearest to the gardens, and Far left: Heather Harrington walks along the fairy trails with her daughter, Emma. Left: The Grand Traverse Commons Natural Area features 140 acres of unpaved trails wandering through hills, streams and forest. Above, top to bottom: The Commons trail system also features clear panoramic views of Traverse City; Teddy Acosta, 4, and Charlie Acosta, 6, of Traverse City, spot a New York City-themed fairy theater. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Above: Heather Harrington and her daughter, Emma, check out a fairy cafe along the trail. Left: Diane Doherty puts the finishing touches on her White o Mornin' Bed & Breakfast.

see if you can find a colorful “Desert Haven” home or a mossy castle built especially for swamp fairies across the way. Then spot a neighboring two-story “Fairy Cafe” made of bark and moss, or search for the entire “street” of houses, anchored by the “White o Mornin’ Bed and Breakfast,” complete with a pinecone bed. For Harrington’s own kids and many others who’ve reached out over the years, working on and playing caretaker of the fairy trails instilled an early love for nature. “For children, fairies are magical,” she says. “I think they learned to love just the whole experience of being outside. They love

playing with sticks and rocks, any little thing they find, and they create this imaginative world of their own.” There’s material for fairy mansions—and magical thinking—naturally scattered throughout the trail system, meticulously maintained by Garfield Township and on trails shared by mountain bikers, commuters, school children on study outings and homeschoolers on lunch picnics. Search for the fairy houses or find magic in the fallen trees that create tree tunnels, and the tucked-away benches that dot trails near hidden streams. There’s even a “Grandmother Willow” of sorts with a groovy edge. “The Hippie Tree,” this day visited only by some noisy pileated woodpeckers, has its own spot on the trail map—it’s become a destination for those who love looking at colorful art others have painted on limbs, playing under the sprawling branches or (as visionaries and mystics supposedly do regularly) staying awhile to meditate beneath. Wherever you find magic, even if it’s just in the warm sunlight spilling through Northern Michigan’s lush green leaves, chances are good you’ll find it on these trails.

“FOR

CHILDREN, FAIRIES ARE MAGICAL,” SHE SAYS. “I THINK THEY LEARNED TO LOVE JUST THE WHOLE EXPERIENCE OF BEING OUTSIDE. THEY LOVE PLAYING WITH STICKS AND ROCKS, ANY LITTLE THING THEY FIND, AND THEY CREATE THIS IMAGINATIVE WORLD OF THEIR OWN.”

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P O S T- H I K E F U N The Village at Grand Traverse Commons is just that—a village that makes it oh so easy to go from hike to dinner, or to pick up your picnic lunch (and vintage picnic basket and sketch pad) before heading out onto the trails. Developers successfully sought to create a thriving multi-generational community, and knowing the story behind the places you’ll stop in and around this castle-style complex that once housed the “Northern Michigan Asylum for the Insane” adds another element of cool. Here, some ideas:

Top: AA sign points visitors in the right direction at the Botanic Garden at Historic Barns Park. Middle: A magical fairy house sits atop a tree stump. A fairy enjoys the view from the Zambrana Family Fairy House. Bottom: A “Gourdgeous Getaway” adorns the forest floor.

WITH KIDS Pick up dinner to go at family-friendly Spanglish and take it (if you wish) next door to Left Foot Charley. Kids like playing in the on-site sandbox near the creek while parents sip wines, like their nationally acclaimed Blaufränkisch, inside a window-walled building that once housed the complex’s laundry operation. Eat dessert first with a cookie to go from Pleasanton Bakery. This tiny brick building was once the fire station. Or try a double chocolate almond scone, baked fresh daily, at Cuppa Joe inside Building 50. Head to the water tower, the complex’s newest residential neighborhood, because it’s both an easy landmark for meet-ups, being only a few steps from the trailhead, and extra popular for the safe space it allows for little ones to run. Choose between a microbrew at Earthen Ales or a freshly squeezed juice treat at S2S, and on weekend nights, the Commons provides firewood for starting your own warming blaze in the on-site fire pit.

WITH FRIENDS OR A DATE Earthen Ales and S2S have teamed up to offer a shared outdoor dining space. Take the partnership theme even further by ordering a crowler of Charley from Earthen Ales, brewed with Blaufränkisch grape pomace from Left Foot Charley, or a Pembroke Stout brewed with a blend of Ethiopian and Peruvian coffee from Higher Grounds. Pair with S2S bread loaves, pastries or anything from the fresh, local menu. Break into teams and say the first round is on whomever comes up short on the village bocce court. Left Foot Charley loans out bocce sets for free with a driver’s license. There’s bonus exploring when Saturday’s indoor farmers market is in progress (10 a.m. to 2 p.m.). Craft a romantic picnic with Italian specialties from PepeNero or Trattoria Stella (and/or dine in when you get back, inside hidden nooks with buttery yellow brick walls). Sanctuary Handcrafted Goods sells a picnic basket so deluxe there’s a quilt and table folded inside. Sketch and reflect by shopping first inside the Building 50 commercial corridor. Pick up a Field Notes notebook at Moonstruck Gardens, a cool journal and colored pencils at Sanctuary Handcrafted Goods (and for fun, a hand-crafted wooden slingshot and a “100 Things to Do in a Forest” book). Chilly? Pick up a Spire or Tunnel Vision sweatshirt from the B50 store and maybe a ticket, as well, to a guided walking tour. Engaging guides bring to life the tales of former asylum employees and the “beauty is therapy” philosophy of the founders—and you can even venture into underground steam tunnels.

Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she’s the author of “100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die.” Allison Jarrell is the managing editor at Traverse Magazine. You can reach her at allison@mynorth.com, or follow her on Instagram: @allisonjarrellphotography.

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PAPAWAS

The 21 or so summers that Ernest Hemingway spent in Northern Michigan shaped his literary trajectory. Visit the places that inspired an icon; Hemingway’s North. BY JEANNE AMBROSE

HERE “This is where the magic happened,” says Chris Struble, president of the Michigan Hemingway Society. He’s referring to Pulitzer- and Nobel-prize winning author Ernest Hemingway’s summer stomping grounds in the Horton Bay area, less than 15 miles southwest of Petoskey. Sixty years after the famed novelist passed away, his books and life are still admired—proven yet again by a recent Ken Burns documentary featuring voice actors Jeff Daniels and Meryl Streep. The Michigan Hemingway Society has made it easy for readers to experience the author’s local hangouts, sharing a self-guided tour map at mihemingwaytour.com. As I make my way to each spot, I can almost picture Hemingway among the lands and waters that so defined his younger life: the family cottage, Windemere, that brought them North; the farm where he worked the fields; the places he hunted, fished and even got married for the first time. These places were so etched in his being, that they made their way into Hemingway’s writing—no matter where he was in the world. Visit, and you’ll feel the magic, too.

NICK ADAMS NATURE PRESERVE Named after Hemingway’s semi-autobiographical Nick Adams stories, the preserve is a 10-minute drive north of Horton Bay General Store (take Boyne City/Charlevoix Road west of the store, then turn north on Horton Creek Road). You may be as surprised, as I was, when the road turns into a sandy two-track with room for

only one car. Overwhelmed by the beauty and isolation, I stopped to take pictures of the tunnel of trees—no, not that Tunnel of Trees—that cozied up around my car. Nothing but looming trunks with just a hint of dappled sunlight filtering through the leafy awning. Keep going until you reach a big wooden sign on your left indicating

A letter from Ernest Hemingway to a friend about Horton Bay—”this is a priceless place.”

this page: photos courtesy of the Hemingway Collection at the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library, Boston

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photo courtesy Michigan Hemingway Society; bottom: photo by Carly Paszek

you’ve arrived. There’s a sandy, car-sized pullover for parking. If I had been channeling my inner Hemingway, I would have worn waders, because the barely discernible path through the forest to the creek is pretty swampy. Hemingway described this area in “Big Two-Hearted River,” and it’s where he fished as a young man. I almost turned back because of the dense trees and bushes. Is this really a path? Shouldn’t I have reached the creek by now? Before the jitters got me, I reached the water’s edge. The trail simply eased right into Horton Creek. I was mesmerized. And I wish I’d brought my rod. Tip: There’s an easier way to visit Horton Creek, but the experience isn’t as Hemingway-esque. Head to 5408 Boyne City Rd., Horton Bay. There’s a sign for Rufus Teesdale Nature Preserve, a parking lot and a footpath to the creek. landtrust.org

HORTON BAY GENERAL STORE Stop to eat, shop and gawk at the memorabilia in this Hemingway hangout. It’s been spiffed up since it opened in 1876, but the store and its surroundings still exude genuine character. Find a spot on the old front porch or the newer side patio to read “Up in Michigan” or “The Last Good Country,” two Hemingway stories in which the store is characterized. Imagine his wedding to Hadley Richardson in a church nearby, which has since been demolished. The old Red Fox Inn, once a boarding house and now a bookstore of sorts, still stands next door though. It’s filled with books and biographies, plus plenty of knickknacks and souvenir curios. Horton Bay General Store: 05115 Boyne City Rd., Boyne City (in the village of Horton Bay) hortonbaygeneralstore.com

Above: The Horton Bay General Store where Ernest and friends often shopped and visited. Opposite: Hemingway displaying his day’s catch.

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LAKE STREET, VILLAGE OF HORTON BAY Plan on being enchanted by a stroll down Lake Street toward Lake Charlevoix (a short walk and across the road from Horton Bay General Store). It will put you in the midst of the setting featured in “The End of Something,” “Summer People,” “On Writing” and “Up in Michigan.” Walk past Pinehurst Cottage and Shangri-La, the site of Hemingway’s first wedding reception/ breakfast. Hemingway occasionally bunked at Pinehurst, now privately owned (don’t go knocking), and the neighboring Shangri-La, today a sevenbedroom vacation rental. Continue your trek back in time as you get closer to the water. The view at the Lake Street public access and boat launch is breathtaking: the woodsy setting, the waters of Charlevoix Bay gently lapping against the beach and the serenity. Plan to sit awhile and soak it all in. Shangri-La: 5738 Lake St., Boyne City shangrilahouse.com

THIS PLACE CREATED INDELIBLE MEMORIES AND INSPIRED THE YOUNG MAN WHO WOULD BECOME A PULITZER PRIZE-WINNING AUTHOR. IT’S WHERE HE PITCHED A TENT TO WORK THE FAMILY FARM, EXPLORED, HUNTED, FISHED AND EVEN WHERE HE MARRIED HIS FIRST WIFE.

Clockwise: Horton Bay summer friends; Inside the Horton Bay General Store; The Hemingway family cottage, Windemere, on the shore of Walloon Lake; Hemingway’s earliest fiction was written in high school about Michigan. clockwise from top left: photo courtesy of the Hemingway Collection at the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library; photo by Patrick Wellever; photo courtesy Clarke Historical Library; photo courtesy of the Hemingway Collection at the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library

HEMINGWAY DOCUMENTARY IN APRIL, AWARD-WINNING FILMMAKERS

DOCUMENTARY ALSO FEATURES HISTORI-

KEN BURNS AND LYNN NOVICK RELEASED

CAL PHOTOGRAPHS OF HEMINGWAY’S TIME

A THREE-PART, SIX-HOUR DOCUMENTARY

SPENT IN NORTHERN MICHIGAN PROVIDED

SERIES ABOUT THE ICONIC LITERARY FIG-

BY MICHIGAN’S CLARKE HISTORICAL LI-

URE. THE SERIES INCLUDES VOICE ACTOR

BRARY. “HEMINGWAY” IS AVAILABLE ON DVD

JEFF DANIELS AS HEMINGWAY PLUS MERYL

AND BLU-RAY, OR WCMU PASSPORT MEM-

STREEP, KERI RUSSELL, MARY-LOUISE

BERS CAN STREAM IT ONLINE.

PARKER AND PATRICIA CLARKSON AS HEMINGWAY’S FOUR WIVES. THE

PBS.ORG/KENBURNS/HEMINGWAY

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clockwise: photo courtesy of the Hemingway Collection at the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library; photo by Todd Zawistowski; photo by Matt Carissimi

WALLOON LAKE PUBLIC ACCESS AND BOAT LAUNCH Head southeast of Horton Bay on Boyne City/Charlevoix Road for about one mile and turn east on Sumner Road. Once again, you’ll be surprised when the paved road turns into a sandy-dirt path surrounded by trees as you get closer to the lake. You’ll finally arrive at a dock and a bit of a sandy patch where you can take a dip in the waters where Hemingway swam most summer mornings. On the right, as you’re facing the lake, once stood 40 acres of Longfield Farm, owned by the Hemingway family and where Hemingway often worked in the fields—cutting hay, planting trees, tending and selling vegetables. This is the spot where he rowed his new bride Hadley across the lake to honeymoon at his family cottage, Windemere, and wrote about it in “Wedding Day.” The boat launch at the end of the road is not a swanky, hifalutin destination—just a spit hemmed in by wild woods. But from this mesmerizing spot, you’ll understand why Northern Michigan became Hemingway’s muse.

A Hemingway Homecoming THE VILLAGE OF WALLOON LAKE, NESTLED BETWEEN BOYNE CITY AND PETOSKEY JUST OFF US-131, HAS PLANNED A YEAR’S WORTH OF ACTIVITIES AND SPECIAL EVENTS HONORING ONE-TIME SUMMER RESIDENT ERNEST HEMINGWAY. LABOR DAY WEEKEND, SEPT. 3–6, WILL BE THE PRIMARY HEMINGWAY HOMECOMING CELEBRATION WITH THE UNVEILING OF HISTORICAL INSTALLATIONS DOWNTOWN FOCUSED ON HEMINGWAY, AS WELL AS OTHER ASPECTS OF THE VILLAGE’S DEVELOPMENT AND GROWTH AT THE END OF THE 19TH AND EARLY 20TH CENTURIES, SUCH AS RAIL TRAVEL, HOTELS AND RESORTS, BOATING AND MORE. ON SEPT. 3, THE VILLAGE IS HOSTING A “HEMINGWAY CENTENNIAL WEDDING RECEPTION” AT THE TALCOTT CENTER. THE TICKETED EVENT, BENEFITTING THE MICHIGAN HEMINGWAY SOCIETY, WILL BE HELD ON THE 100TH ANNIVERSARY OF ERNEST HEMINGWAY’S WEDDING TO HADLEY RICHARDSON. THE EVENING IN-

Clockwise: Ernest Hemingway on the shore of Walloon Lake, 1916; Walloon Lake today; City Park Grill in Petoskey.

CLUDES A HEMINGWAY-THEMED HAPPY HOUR AND A SPECIAL DINNER BY WINE GUYS CATERING FEATURING A MENU

PERRY HOTEL AND CITY PARK GRILL, PETOSKEY After hanging out at Hemingway’s favorite outdoor spots, head to Petoskey to visit a couple of his indoor haunts. Check out (or check into) Stafford’s Perry Hotel, where Hemingway stayed in 1916 and where he was known to favor rum and brandy. He also hung out at City Park Grill—known as the Annex during the Hemingway era. It was a male-only billiard parlor (yes, he played) and it was just a short walk to the nearby park where he watched bare-knuckle boxing. If you listen to local lore, Hemingway loved to sit at the second barstool inside the entrance of City Park Grill. (Struble contends there were no seats at the bar during Hemingway’s days.) Nonetheless, he was a regular and may have bellied up in that exact spot. You’ll want to do so, too. Order a Hemingway Daiquiri and raise a toast. Perry Hotel: 100 Lewis St., Petoskey, theperryhotel.com City Park Grill: 432 E. Lake St., Petoskey, cityparkgrill.com

FROM PINEHURST INN IN HORTON BAY (WHERE THE ACTUAL WEDDING RECEPTION WAS HELD). THROUGHOUT THE NIGHT, GUESTS WILL BE INVITED TO BID ON A VARIETY OF UNIQUE HEMINGWAY AND WALLOON LAKE ITEMS AND EXPERIENCES WITH LIVE AUCTIONEER SCOTT MACKENZIE OF BOYNE CITY. IN ADDITION, SEVERAL BUSINESSES, INCLUDING HOTEL WALLOON, WALLOON LAKE INN AND BARREL BACK RESTAURANT, ARE SHOWCASING FOODS AND BEVERAGES THROUGHOUT THE YEAR IN HONOR OF HEMINGWAY’S PASSION FOR SUCH THINGS. THEMED LODGING PACKAGES ARE ALSO AVAILABLE, BASED ON ACTIVITIES THAT THE PULITZER- AND NOBEL PRIZE-WINNING AUTHOR ENJOYED, LIKE FLY FISHING. FOR MORE ON THESE

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WELCOME TO INSPIRED LIFE. At the heart of this magazine is the idea that at every age, we share a common love of this place we call home. Meet new neighbors embracing adventures—both big and small. Find real advice for taking good care of the assets and places we hold dear. Tap into a true joy for the outdoors that keeps our inner lives vibrant and our bodies well. Connect. Join in. Find smart and new ways to inspire your life Up North. —the Editors

CONTENTS 2

THE UNSTOPPABLES John Bruder found community on the VASA during his fight against cancer, while Wayne Lobdell embraced consistent exercise as part of his treatment for Parkinson’s. These two courageous Northerners continue to defy the odds and break down barriers.

FROM HOME DECOR TO HOME-COOKED MEALS Suttons Bay business owner Peggy Miller found a new purpose in her retirement—working on community outreach and feeding those in need with the Leland nonprofit 5Loaves2Fish.

LIFE FIRST, SCHOOL SECOND Fifty-three years after starting college, having kids and getting married, 70-yearold Marilyn Dear went back to school and graduated with an associate’s degree from NMC. Now, a new statewide scholarship offers older students like Marilyn a chance to pursue different careers and passions.

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ARE YOU GETTING THE NUTRIENTS YOU NEED? Madelyn Wilcox, a registered dietician who specializes in oncology nutrition, shares how nutrient deficiencies can affect us as we age, and how to get the nutrients we need to maintain a healthy lifestyle.

plus

ESTATE & FINANCIAL SERVICES: THE NEW INVESTING WORLD | PAGE 11 More and more investors are adding cryptocurrency to their portfolios, but the new online currency has both pros and cons for potential investors. Crypto expert Thomas Holt shares advice for determining if you should take the plunge and how to get started in this new investing world. COVER PHOTO BY TIM HUSSEY

MyNorth Inspired Life is produced by MyNorthMedia. Advertising and editorial offices at: 125 Park St., Ste. 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. 231.941.8174, MyNorth.com. All rights reserved. Copyright 2021, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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THE UNSTOPPABLES Defying the odds and breaking down barriers— these courageous people never give up. BY ANNE STANTON | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

JOHN BRUDER

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FIGH T IN G CAN C E R & F I N D I N G COM M U NITY

At the North American VASA ski race in February of 2010, not racing, but somehow being a part of the race. So, Jerry, who John Bruder watched skate skiers whom he’d easily pass, pass sits on the VASA board, came up with the idea of creating its him. He chalked it up to a bad day. But after getting diagnosed first recognition race, a 12K, named “Ski with John.” with Stage 4 lung cancer 10 months later, he realized it might “We were going to create this group of people, and it was have been a tumor already at work. going to be the Bruder Wave,” says Jerry. “People who had John, a full-time orthopedic surgeon at the time, was an elite never ski raced before decided to sign up. His nurse, she was skier and cyclist. He enjoyed making a race goal and going all there. So many people, it was just unbelievable.” out to achieve it. When he wasn’t working, he was often workBy the time of the race, 77 people had signed up. ing out. Each morning, he ran at 5:30 a.m. with his Traverse “It was a moving party,” Jerry says. “John led the way. He just City neighbor and buddy, Jerry Glenn, an assistant principal at couldn’t ski the way he used to, and we worked out a way to go Traverse City Central High School. out in the woods that didn’t require any hills at all. We had this But later in the summer months, he noticed a persistent train of people with John up front and several others positioned cough that didn’t fade when fall set in. So, early one morning in in front of him. He’s crying all the time, he’s that kind of person.” December, on the advice of his For the race, John used an doctor, he asked one of his techs oxygen concentrator, which he to do an X-ray. carried in a backpack behind JOHN BRUDER SKIJORING WITH HIS DOGS IN LEELANAU COUNTY. “After they did it, I watched him. The device—about the size the monitor, and immediately of a small melon—sucks in outI’m seeing it. It was like getting side air and removes a portion hit in the face,” John says, chokof nitrogen to provide a higher concentration of oxygen. ing up over the memory. “There were a couple of big snowballs in John was able to return to my right lung. I always thought work and retired four years I was healthy. I realized at that ago at the age of 71. On the point, my life changed. I had health front, it hasn’t been enlung cancer.” tirely smooth sailing; four times After the diagnosis, John, at the cancer came back, and was 64, made a list of all the things treated with radiation, chemo he wanted to do with friends and surgery. After each health and family before dying. He setback, he pushed himself to guessed he had six months. “I stay active. He’s had no evifigured I was on the way out,” dence of the disease for the last he confesses. six years. Now 75, John and his “We were all devastated,” says wife, Carolyn Keith, live in EmJerry in a phone interview. “We pire, and he still bikes, skies and thought he was gone.” hikes, especially in and around Over the next year, John Pyramid Point. He also found a underwent intense chemo and new sport—skijoring with their radiation to shrink the tumor. two dogs. “It’s great fun!” he says. He took a temporary leave of John still uses the oxygen absence from his orthopedics job but still managed to crossconcentrator to handle the tougher outings. But his multiple country ski—the more laid-back classic style—every day. bouts with cancer have made him realize what he truly loves And then came two surgeries—one for a ruptured disc that about exercise, and it isn’t necessarily winning. left him unable to walk from his garage to the house. A second “The key is doing these things with someone else so you can major surgery 10 days later removed two-thirds of his right share your personal feelings, your experiences and not be out lung. The operation quite literally took the wind out of him. there by yourself, just pounding along and having only your “We had some hard times in there,” Jerry says. “He is quite thoughts to deal with,” John says. “It’s much, much healthier private, he would never totally complain. He’d work through if you can share the experience with a friend. So that’s what it. And during that time, he struggled with, ‘What can I do?’” I always tell people. Don’t just go walking. Get a friend to go In 2013, John considered doing the VASA again—obviously walking, and then you’ll go every day.”

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E X E RC ISE IS T H E N E W M E D I C I N E

Twelve years ago, Terry Lobdell noticed that her husband, Wayne, wasn’t himself. There were random panic attacks. He couldn’t turn his neck when backing out the car. And then there was the morning the dog made a terrible mess and Wayne couldn’t smell a thing. With the symptoms adding up, Wayne went to see his doctor, who noticed long moments between his blinks. “You need to be tested for Parkinson’s,” the doctor told him. Soon afterward, he was diagnosed with Parkinson’s Disease— an incurable, progressive nervous system disorder that afflicts a million people in the U.S.—more than the combined number of people diagnosed with multiple sclerosis, muscular dystrophy and Lou Gehrig’s disease, according to the Parkinson’s Foundation. Wayne first tried to sort out the age-old question. Why him? Most cases aren’t hereditary, but then he remembered a longago visit to his uncle who was bedridden, suffering the most advanced stage of the disease. “When I went to see him, he was lying in bed, shaking, and having a very uncomfortable life going for him. I felt bad for him,” Wayne says. “So, when I got diagnosed, that picture came into my mind, and it was depressing. I made up my mind I was going to beat it.” And so far, he has. At a recent doctor’s appointment, Wayne, 80, was told that after 12 years, his symptoms haven’t progressed since his original diagnosis. Although his speech is a little slurred and his memory less reliable, he is still in Stage 1, defined as a person with mild symptoms that don’t interfere with daily life. His success doesn’t surprise Hettie Molvang, director of Parkinson’s Network North (parkinsonsnetworknorth.org) in Traverse City, who says every person’s experience is unique. “The reason why Wayne is where he’s at and is doing so well after 12 years is because he works at it,” she says. “He listens. He exercises, he watches his diet, he sings out loud, and he does it religiously. That abates his symptoms. If he were not to do it for a few days, his symptoms would blossom, and he would fall behind by six months for taking that time off, and it would take him that long to get back. He knows that.” Molvang credits the brain’s neuroplasticity, the learning tool of the brain, which needs to be “seriously taught.” “And you teach it by doing the same thing, the same time, in the same way, every day,” she says. “It’s repetition, and it becomes almost like a drug for the brain. Exercise is the new medicine. It will not cure you, but it will slow down the symptoms.” When first diagnosed, Wayne vowed to do everything in his power in all realms of his life—spiritual, physical, mental—to ward off the onset of symptoms. When it came to exercise, he was ahead of the curve. For years, he ran after work to relieve the stress of managing his restaurant franchises. Now he runs two miles, strength trains and plays golf. His fitness goal is to attain the same level of performance as the day before. “I recognize that I am a little more forgetful and that I can’t run as fast as I used to, but it’s important to keep going,” says Wayne, still looking trim and fit. His advice is to choose an exercise you love that will get your heart rate up. Early on, he embarked on an innovative exercise 4

regime—LSVT Global—that works on balance, shoulder flexibility, large movements and strength training with bands. “He was Mr. Twinkle Toes, running sideways, all this intricate exercise, and he was faithful to it for a very long period of time,” Terry says. He also faithfully eats a Mediterranean diet high in fresh vegetables and fruits and mostly fish for protein. “It’s supposed to be the best diet for people with Parkinson’s,” Wayne explains. The diet reaps big benefits when it comes to heart health, weight maintenance and reducing the risk of chronic diseases. But studies show the plant-heavy diet can also reduce the risk of neurodegenerative disease, reduce constipation and play a role in memory function, writes Heather Simpson of University of Florida Health (Aug. 3, 2020). To keep his brain fit, he plays cards, dines with friends, follows horse racing, attends business meetings and keeps an eye on the news except when it gets “too darn stressful.” He even published a novel a few years ago. On the spiritual side, he meditates daily and attends church. His philanthropic endeavors also keep him happy. Besides seeing a traditional physician, Wayne consults with a functional doctor at the Center for Personalized Medicine (locations in Traverse City, Ann Arbor, Grosse Pointe and Bloomfield Hills), who prescribes a supplement regimen. Wayne estimates he spends about $2,500 annually, none of it covered by insurance. “Unfortunately, some of the things you can do are costly and it’s unfair that people who don’t have the means can’t necessarily do it,” he says. Finally, he is strategic about his medicine that corrects his body’s dopamine levels, which drop with Parkinson’s and cause dyskinesia, such as hand tremors or shaking. But as the dose is increased over time, the medicine can actually cause dyskinesia, the very thing it’s meant to resolve. That’s why Wayne has sought to retain the same low dose over 12 years—and he has. His strategy has been to divide his short-term single dose of carbidopa/levodopa into six different doses, which he takes every two hours. (The extended-release pill doesn’t agree with him.) “I think anyone who lives with a person with an issue really appreciates it when they’re proactive and very good at taking matters into into their own hands,” Terry says. “His pill distribution is very complicated and I’m so glad he’s the one doing it.” At the time of the interview, Wayne, who turned 80 in March, was ramping up his mileage for the Priority Health 5K, a National Cherry Festival race in July. Some 40 friends and family members were also training to join him, planning to wear red shirts saying, “Poppy's 80!” “The rule is they can’t show me up,” he says laughing, adding that he will lead the race. Anne Stanton is the co-founder of Traverse City's National Writers Series. She served as a researcher/editor for two New York Times-bestselling books, works as a freelance writer/editor and is the editorial director for Mission Point Press.

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I MADE UP MY MIND I WAS GOING TO BEAT IT.

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From Home Decor to Home-cooked Meals A Suttons Bay business owner finds new purpose at Leland nonprofit 5Loaves2Fish. BY KANDACE CHAPPLE | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

From owning a successful home decor store to making and serving homemade meals out of a food trailer to food-insecure folks—it’s not your average retirement. Unless you’re Peggy Miller. Retirement was just a whisper in Peggy’s ear last year. One she had been ignoring. She was entering her 13th summer of running her store, At Home, in Suttons Bay, and she loved it. The store had been her baby, her joy and her job for so long, she couldn’t imagine life without it. However, when COVID-19 closed the store for much of 2020, Peggy found herself with time on her hands as she sat at home in Leland. At the same time, Michelle and Bill White were just about to launch 5Loaves2Fish, a community outreach program through the Leland Community United Methodist Church. “I got excited to help Michelle get going,” says Peggy. “So, we just started cooking.” As 5Loaves2Fish started taking shape, Peggy realized this could be the time for her to step back from her professional life and instead focus on volunteering for her second act. Her husband, Geno, had recently retired, helping prompt her to make the same change. Nowadays, Peggy, at age 62, spends two to three days a week volunteering for 5Loaves2Fish, and she’s loving it. “A silver lining to COVID is that I have never felt so happy working and giving back,” Peggy says. “Besides, I can’t play solitaire 24/7. I have tendonitis in my hands from it!” she quips. 5Loaves2Fish is not your average church kitchen: They make everything from scratch, even the pasta. Peggy grew up in a family of eight children, so she says she is used to making big meals for lots of people. On the flip side, Michelle had experience in catering and is “one of one” children, Peggy says. It was a good match. “She’s been my friend since I was 20 years old,” Peggy says. “She’s the type of friend you can pick up with at any time and laugh!” 5Loaves2Fish is a reference to a Bible story in which Jesus used just five loaves and two fish supplied by a boy to feed a

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"A silver lining to COVID is that I have never felt so happy working and giving back."

multitude of people. Peggy says it’s ironic and symbolic that they have seen that actually happen: They often have just the right amount of food every time they serve, even though they never know how many people will show up. “One time, Michelle had 65 chicken breasts, and we fed 72 people! What are the odds? It worked out—it always does!” Peggy says. It often works out with the help of the community, as well. “We needed a new fridge and commercial freezer, and the next thing we know, Island Time Catering donated one to us,” recalls Peggy. “Another time, we wanted a pasta machine and I reached out to (the now closed) Leelanau Country Inn, and they donated their commercial pasta machine.” With the new machine, they can make fettuccini for 50 in about 30 minutes. The meals are varied and often feature local foods. One recent meal was meatloaf, asparagus, three different pasta choices (buttered, kale pesto and beet pesto—the beets and kale from Second Spring Farm in Cedar) and fresh strawberries from Bardenhagen Berries in Lake Leelanau. And the latest joy for those at 5Loaves2Fish? A 24-foot, deckedout food trailer named “Vinny,” after the donors, Vince Tomczak and Kristy Lorraine. It includes a six-burner gas range, flat-top grill and refrigeration. The trailer allows 5Loaves2Fish to take their show on the road. Instead of hauling food in totes and car trunks, they can now set up and serve food fresh from the trailer, offering increased accessibility to those in need. You can see the new food trailer on Mondays at Veterans Park in Traverse City, serving 45–65 meals a week to guests experiencing homelessness and food insecurity. The nonprofit team also has another service each week where food is delivered to families. Beyond food, 5Loaves2Fish has a pulse on the needs of the homeless community. “If someone needs a sleeping bag, we go get it, or a tent, we get it,” Peggy says. “Or we gather clothes. Last month, I set up a pharmacist to give COVID shots. We just kind of find out what they need.”

PEGGY MILLER

Retirement is nothing like Peggy expected: It’s better. “Everything is done with love,” she says. “It’s just such an incredible opportunity to be a part of—you can’t help but feel good doing it. We play oldies and laugh. It’s been an amazing experience!” Visit 5Loaves2Fish online at 5loaves2fishnmi.org. Kandace Chapple is a freelance writer and owner of Michigan Girl, an event planning business. She can be reached at kandacechapple.com

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owner(s) of each account. Make sure all names are automatically at your death to the designated benefispelled correctly. If you have a living trust, you ciary, regardless of your will or living trust. As a Account Registration should generally register the accounts into the Beneficiary result,Designation take time to review these designations to help You should properly register your investment Assets that designate beneficiary, such asyour life overall name of the trust. make sure theya are consistent with accounts by listing the correct individual(s) as the insurance policies or retirement assets, will pass estate plan and personal goals. owner(s) of each account. Make sure all names are automatically at your death to the designated benefiWill spelled correctly. If you have a living trust, you ciary, regardless of your will or living trust. As a A will describes your assets will be divided result, take Durable Attorney should generally registerhow the accounts into the time toPower review of these designations to help and distributed at your death. This document also With a durable power attorney, you designate an name of the trust. make sure they are consistent of with your overall names the person(s) who will manage your estateestate plan individual to make financial decisions on your behalf and personal goals. with respect to your individually owned assets. The at your death. Will power of attorney may be broad, or you may limit It is important to note that a will governs the disposiA will describes how your assets will be divided Durable Power ofthat Attorney the powers you grant to such an individual. tion of assets in your and distributed at yourheld death. Thisindividual documentname also only. ItWith a durable power of attorney, you designate an This also decisions provides incapacity protection does not govern held asyour “joint tenants,” those names the person(s) whoassets will manage estate individual to document make financial on your behalf that designate a beneficiary or those held within awith respect if youtobecome disabled. Please however, that your individually ownednote, assets. The at your death. revocable trust. However, a will can help ensure that transferred youror living are generally power ofassets attorney may be to broad, you trust may limit It is important to note that a will assets governs the disposiyour individually owned transfer at your death not that governed by the ofindividual. attorney. Instead, your the powers you grant to power such an tion of assets held in your individual name only. It as you intended. trustees will have decision-making authority with This document provides incapacity protection does not govern assets held as “joint tenants,” those respectalso to those assets. that designate a beneficiary or those held within a if you become disabled. Please note, however, that Living revocable trust. Trust However, a will can help ensure that assets transferred to your living trust are generally Often youowned can use a willtransfer in conjunction Health Directive/Living Will/ your your individually assets at your with deatha living not governed byCare the power of attorney. Instead, trust. You can create this trust during your lifetimetrusteesPower ofdecision-making Attorney for Health Care as you intended. will have authority with for your own benefit. At your death, the trust will respect With these documents, you name your health care to those assets. distribute your assets in the same way a will does, agents to act on your behalf for medical treatment Living Trust but without the high degree of court involvement. decisions if you’re unable to act for yourself. These Often you can use a will in conjunction with a living Health documents Care Directive/Living Will/ also express your specific wishes with You may want to consider establishing a living trust trust. You can create this trust during your lifetime Power respect of Attorney for Health Care to the administration of life-prolonging if you want to: for your own benefit. At your death, the trust will With these documents, you name yourcommunicate health care them. procedures when you cannot • Avoid the costs and formal distribute your assets in the same wayrequirements a will does, of the agents to act on your behalf for medical treatment probate process but without the high degree of court involvement. decisions if you’re unable to act for yourself. These Edward Jones, its employees and financial advisors are not estate planners do not provide tax or legal advice. with Please consult a • Protect your and your family’s privacy from the documents alsoand express your specific wishes You may want to consider establishing a living trust qualified tax professional or an attorney for advice regarding your public aspects of the probate process respect to the administration of life-prolonging situation. if you want to: • Protect assets should you become incapacitatedprocedures or when you cannot communicate them. • Avoid the costs and formal requirements of the eventually need help managing your financial affairs probate process • Protect your and your family’s privacy from the Financial Advisors in Traverse City public aspects of the probate process

® John W Elwell, AAMS® John Tredway Heather J Boivin, AAMS

Edward Jones, its employees and financial advisors are not estate planners and do not provide tax or legal advice. Please consult a Financial Advisor qualified tax professional or an attorney for advice regarding your in Interlochen edwardjones.com situation. Jamie Keillor Member SIPCBill Collin

• Protect assets should you become incapacitated or Financial Advisor 806 S Garfield Ave, Suite B 3285 South Airport Road West eventually need help managing your financial affairs 231-932-1290 231-933-5263 3588 Veterans Dr Traverse City, MI 49684-4569 ® Andrew Weaver Yancy Boivin, AAMS 231-947-0079

3285 South Airport Road West 231-933-5263 John W Elwell, AAMS®

125 Park Street, Suite 250 231-947-3032

Financial Advisor

4110 Copper Ridge Dr, Building D, Suite 202 231-252-3561

Greg Williams edwardjones.com 513 S Union St 231-933-0881Member SIPC

EST-2913E-A EXP 30 APR® 2022 © 2020 EDWARD D. JONES & CO., L.P. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Jim Mellinger John W Elwell, AAMS 3588 Veterans Dr 12935 SW Bay Shore Dr, Ste 310 3588 Veterans Dr Traverse City, MI 49684-4569 231-947-1123 231-947-0079

9672 US Highway 31, Ste 400 231-276-1355

Call or visit any of our financial advisors in the area.

231-947-0079

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ESTATE & FINANCIAL SERVICES

Investing World THE NEW

What you need to know about the pros and cons of investing in cryptocurrency. BY ALLISON JARRELL

he next generation of investors has its eye on a new form of money— cryptocurrency. Even if you aren’t familiar with the ins and outs of how the online currency works, odds are you’ve heard plenty about how Bitcoin, Dogecoin and others are changing the world of investing as we know it. We caught up with Dr. Thomas J. Holt, director and professor at Michigan State University’s School of Criminal Justice, to learn more about investing in crypto. continued on page 15

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THE RIGHT FIT Now, more than ever, it is important to find financial advisors that truly listen and work FOR you. As Accredited Investment Fiduciaries, Traverse City-based financial advisors, Mecky Kessler-Howell and Kristi L. Avery of FOR Investment Partners want to know what you care about most. Kristi, “When constructing a financial portfolio, I want to know what matters most to our clients. These are hard earned resources, with specific financial goals and should be invested with the utmost attention to alignment with our client’s values and needs” Once we have a clear idea of what matters most to our clients, FOR Investment Partners will help you construct an intentional portfolio reflecting your personal or organization’s values, not just your standard cookie-cutter portfolio. Adds Mecky, “We work FOR you. As independent financial advisors, we have only your best interests and goals at the forefront of our advice.” “Combined we have over 40 years of experience helping clients invest with their intention. Our goal is to help align your financial resources according to your values, and plant seeds for financial returns.”

FOR YOUR FAMILY. FOR YOUR FUTURE. FOR YOUR LIFESTYLE.

It’s easy to reach out... 2226 South Airport Road West, Traverse City 231.933.4396 | forinvestmentpartners.com kavery@wisdirect.com | mhowell@wisdirect.com Securities and Investment Advisory Services offered through Western International Securities, Inc., Member FINRA/SIPC. FOR Investment Partners & Western International Securities, Inc., are separate & unaffiliated entities. PAID FEATURE

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ESTATE & FINANCIAL SERVICES

If you’re very risk-averse, I would not recommend investing in crypto. But for people who are not risk-averse—who would accept a higher degree of loss—this is a reasonable investment.

THE BASICS In essence, crypto is a form of currency that can be used to pay for goods and services online. Entities like Bitcoin, Dogecoin and Ethereum issue their own currencies, usually referred to as “tokens” or “coins,” which can be traded for specific goods or services offered. Investing in crypto is nearly identical to investing in a country’s native currency, such as the yen or the euro—the difference being that a country’s currency rises and falls based on the country’s successes, whereas, according to Investopedia, crypto rises and falls for various reasons, including “media coverage, speculation and availability.” Crypto works using something called “blockchain”—a decentralized technology that’s spread across many computers. This technology manages and records transactions, and it keeps crypto anonymous and secure—which is part of its appeal. “Blockchain is a way to validate that transactions have occurred in an encrypted, anonymized fashion,” Holt says. “It’s a public ledger of sorts for transactions.” PROS AND CONS OF CRYPTO Investors are turning to crypto over traditional government-based money for a variety of reasons. Some point to crypto’s ability to reduce corruption—chances of abusing power increase when one entity holds all the power, and crypto’s blockchain technology distributes power among all members of its network. (Unlike a mutual fund where a single entity controls one ledger, blockchain uses a distributed ledger that helps to remove the risk of corruption or fraud.) Crypto also allows folks to cut out the middleman (banks) and take charge of their own funds. But crypto isn’t without its risks—currencies lack regulation and are often volatile. In 2017, the price of Bitcoin and other major currencies skyrocketed above 1,000 percent before crashing back down. And more recently this year, Elon Musk’s mentions of Dogecoin have it both tumbling and soaring.

“That’s one of the biggest risks—the degree to which cryptocurrencies can be artificially inflated,” Holt says. So, is cryptocurrency safe to invest in? Holt says yes, but with a caveat. “Due to the volatility of the currencies themselves, they are risky,” he says. “It’s not the same as a traditional investment or mutual fund investment. An individual needs to be very aware of the risks when they invest. “If you’re very risk-averse, I would not recommend investing in crypto,” Holt continues. “It’s not something I would do as a casual investor generally. But for people who are not riskaverse—who would accept a higher degree of loss—this is a reasonable investment.” In general, Holt recommends those interested in taking the plunge invest in cryptocurrencies that are well known. There are more than 9,000 different cryptocurrencies in existence as of April 2021, but more established cryptos like Bitcoin, Ethereum and Litecoin might be a good place to start. (Think of it like investing in an established economy versus a developing economy.) “There are so many variations,” Holt says. “Do your due diligence—don’t just pick [a new cryptocurrency] that was pumped up once on a podcast. Treat it like you would any other vendor. If you just buy $100 worth of some far-flung crypto, you may never get that money back. This is a space that can be pretty easy to scam people, so due diligence is tremendously important.” When deciding which cryptocurrency to invest in, you’ll find countless articles with advice and tips from financial experts on sites like TIME, Forbes, Business Insider, CNBC, Investopedia, etc. Ideally, a financial advisor would be able to guide you on which cryptos to consider adding to your portfolio and how much, but many advisors don’t recognize crypto as an investable asset class like stocks or bonds. Companies like Edward Jones and Fidelity have cryptocurrency primers on their websites, but clearly state that their customers cannot buy or sell crypto through them. continued on page 19

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Welcome Home It is called by many names - oasis, sanctuary, shelter, pad, humble abode. It is our place to eat, work, recharge, and relax. It is where we spend our lives, raise our families, welcome friends, and care for our loved ones. It is our starting point for our adventures, and where we finish them. It is home. Two Michigan based companies are working together to protect your important place. Fischer Insurance Agency and Fremont Insurance have the coverages you need to protect your home or home-away-from-home. “We have a great partnership with Fremont, we both pride ourselves on our reputation and unparalleled service. Fremont offers exceptional prices and dynamic products,” says Joe Fischer of Fischer Insurance. These companies know a thing or two about insurance. With an impressive combined 180 years of business, they know the local geography, climate, demographics, and lifestyle in ways that national insurers can’t. As other companies try to service you from across the country, Fischer and Fremont are local and right here when you need them. We’re Confident You Won’t Find a Better Insurance Value.

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Fremont Insurance takes pride in providing Michigan residents with exceptional service and customized products at affordable rates. Our customer-focused approach has made Fremont one of the fastest growing and most respected insurers in the state. Your home is one of your biggest investments. That’s why Fremont has the coverage and money-saving discounts you need to protect this investment and get the most value for your premium dollar. Fremont offers flexible and affordable options to meet a wide range of needs. Guaranteed replacement cost for your dwelling and Replacement cost for your contents - We encourage you to contact Fischer Insurance to evaluate your home insurance needs and how best to protect yourself in the event of a loss. If you are not a homeowner, Fremont also offers renters and condominium insurance, with many of the same value-added options. Fast, friendly, and reliable service. Your individual needs are reviewed and addressed by professional and experienced agents at Fischer Insurance. Customized and dynamic policies. Your policy is tailored specifically to your situation and needs. Fremont also offers commercial, farm and marine policies, many of which provide the same great discounts and customization that other carriers have taken away.

info@ﬁscherins.com 0921_INSPIRED LIFE.indd 17

800.453.6170 8/9/21 9:52 AM

Planning For The Future Should Be As Relaxing As... Your Future. Planning for your future shouldn’t be stressful. Whether your desire is to create a secure retirement or leave a lasting legacy we honor your intention now and decades to come. We guide and empower you along your financial journey, helping to offer you clarity and financial independence. Our process is to embrace, educate, and empower your decisions. So while you are spending your time relaxing you can be confident that your team understands what’s important to you.

We Help Simplify Your Journey embrace. A clear understanding of what is important to you.

educate. A well defined road map to achieve your goals.

empower. Ongoing advice to help you adjust and move forward.

Dawn Hemming, MBA Autumn C. Soltysiak, CFP 600 E. Front Street. Traverse City, MI 49686 231.922.2900 I empower@hemmingwm.com www.hemmingwm.com hemming& Wealth Management, Inc. (”hemming& Wealth Managment”) is a Registed Investment Advisor (”RIA”) with the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (”SEC”).

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ESTATE & FINANCIAL SERVICES

6 CRYPTO INVESTING APPS YOU SHOULD KNOW You’ve sailed through the Coinbase tutorials and now you’re ready to dive into other exchange options. For those looking for something beyond Coinbase’s offerings, here are some of the best apps and sites for investing in cryptocurrencies. SoFi is a great choice for beginner investors looking for a straightforward, easy-to-use platform. Pricing is also extremely reasonable—you can start investing with just $1. (There are no recurring fees, either.) The app allows users to take advantage of a free portfolio manager picks and manages your investments for you, but browsing investment opportunities on your own is also a breeze on SoFi. In addition, you’ll have access to investment education articles, as well as complimentary financial planning sessions. sofi.com Robinhood is considered one of the best apps for beginners looking for options to buy a wide array of cryptocurrencies, as well as more traditional investments like stocks and options, all in one place. All crypto trading on the app is completely commission-free, and there are no fees or account minimums. A premium account with more features starts at $5 a month. robinhood.com Gemini is popular with investors in part because of its attention to security and transparency. The app, which features a user-friendly interface, offers Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC) protection on all deposits. And as an added benefit, new users get $10 when they open an account and deposit $100. gemini.com eToro offers investors a solid selection of cryptocurrencies to choose from (more than a dozen), as well as some features that set it apart from other apps—think social media-type commenting and following that allows you to observe and copy the trades and portfolios of other investors. The app also includes a practice account that you can try out before investing real funds. Unlike Robinhood, eToro does require a $50 account minimum and the app has a straightforward fee schedule that varies by cryptocurrency. etoro.com BlockFi is an exceptional app for earning monthly interest on your crypto investments (up to 7.5% annually). The app allows users to borrow against their holdings instead of selling their tokens/coins, or users can hold your crypto and let it earn interest. Currently BlockFi is offering a Bitcoin bonus when you deposit $100 or more, but there’s no minimum deposit or monthly fees. blockfi.com Stockpile is perfect for parents wanting to teach their kids or teens about investing and the stock market. The app makes it easy to gift stock to a young user, and parents can also keep an eye on the account of a minor. Stockpile does charge a commission of $0.99 per trade, but it offers fractional share investing, which may make the fee worth it for some users. Stockpile also includes fun and educational mini lessons that teach kids about the ins and outs of investing. Does your teen want to know more about Bitcoin? Stockpile will guide them through the basics while giving new users a $5 credit to invest in crypto or other stocks. stockpile.com

Holt also suggests beginner investors start by buying crypto and sitting on it. “I would be very careful about investing with the notion that you’re going to turn it around quickly and sell it off,” he says. “Look at it as a broader portfolio investment. Start slow and build your way to being comfortable with it.” Holt adds that for environmentally conscious individuals, some cryptocurrencies have a lower carbon footprint than others. New crypto is created or “mined” by using computers to complete very difficult math equations. Solving a Bitcoin equation requires more computing power than currencies such as Dogecoin or Ethereum, which means it uses more electricity per coin mined. Crypto may be hot right now, but with its volatility, will it stay that way? Is it the future of finance? “It’s possible,” Holt says. “I think that hard currencies are always going to have a specific role. At the moment, it seems like crypto is just another type of commodity or stock. But the blockchain and accountability component makes it attractive. It could certainly happen over time, but would maybe require some generational changes before that could take root.” HOW TO GET STARTED Holt says he would heartily encourage anyone who’s interested in investing to do a lot of reading upfront to understand how cryptocurrencies work. “It’s important to understand the tax implications of buying and using cryptos,” he says. “There are taxes one will have to pay in order to liquidate or use Bitcoin in the U.S.—you will be taxed like capital gains.” The best way to get started, in Holt’s opinion, is to use a site like Coinbase (coinbase.com) that provides very easyto-understand tutorials. “Coinbase is definitely the forerunner in this,” he says. “The site will also give you cryptocurrency while you’re going through their tutorials. So you get a little bit of cryptocurrency for the effort that you put into learning about it.” According to TIME, more than 56 million people are trading what amounts to over $300 billion worth of cryptocurrency on Coinbase each quarter. Users often report enjoying the simple, beginner-friendly interface and educational tools. Beyond learning about crypto, you can use also Coinbase to invest in more than 50 different cryptocurrencies, and the site has been lauded for its strong security measures. (Note: If you choose to use Coinbase as an exchange for investing in crypto, it does charge fees.) For more information about investing in crypto, visit coinbase.com.

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The Jonkhoff family and caring staff are the ones you can trust and depend on... today and tomorrow.

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SPEND SOME TIME UP NORTH ... WITHOUT USING VACATION DAYS.

Pictured from left to right: Dan and Peg Jonkhoff, Christy Jonkhoff-Hater and Lindsey (Jonkhoff) Rogers

Like your will, funeral pre-arrangements are a guide for your survivors and a gift of love. Call us today for an appointment as our preneed consultants, Nicole or Brooke, would be happy to meet at your home or ours.

Subscribe yourself or someone you love now for a full year of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine for $24.95 and receive 6 issues of Northern Home & Cottage, the Vacation Guides and 10 other special sections. MyNorth.com/subscribe

Many people support the Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy because they know the best way to ensure our region remains vibrant, healthy and beautiful is to protect the critical places we all love - forever. Planning for a conservation legacy offers the satisfaction of supporting a vital cause, the excitement of knowing your gift will make a positive impact and – in many cases – substantial financial benefits to you and/ or another beneficiary through tax advantages or life income. Many arrange planned gifts to ensure their vision and annual support can last well into the future. We can work with your financial advisor to design a gift planning option that will meet your personal, financial and charitable goals, all while safeguarding the region’s most special places for future generations.

For more information contact: Marissa Duque, Director of Development p: 231-929-7911 e: mduque@gtrlc.org

GTRLC.ORG

The Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy has partnered with FreeWill to provide you a free online tool to write your will so you can support the people and causes you love the most. Leave a gift to GTRLC, to protect NorthernMichigan’s beautiful land for your family to enjoy for generations to come.

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A Financial Plan Built Just for You. Are you at the beginning or middle of your career? Are you retired, nearly retired, or far from it? Do you avoid risk, or embrace it? Goals and preferences change as time passes and experiences shift paradigms. That’s why our advisors customize your plan to suit the special combination of factors in your life.

Our team will provide you with: 1. Thoughtful comprehensive financial planning 2. In-depth education 3. The opportunity to dive into the world of ESG (Environmental, Social, and Corporate Governance) investing in a way that is supportive to you and your goals

Your aspirations become our top priority.

Ph. 231-933-0846 | 4110 Copper Ridge Dr #235, Traverse City, MI 49684 Securities and advisory services offered through LPL Financial, a Registered Investment Advisor, Member FINRA/SIPC Environmental Social Governance (ESG) investing has certain risks based on the fact that the criteria excludes securities of certain issuers for nonfinancial reasons and, therefore, investors may forgo some market opportunities and the universe of investments available will be smaller.

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Estate Planning

You work hard for your money. Let your money work hard for you.

WE LISTEN. • TOGETHER, Financial Planning • Investment Strategies • Pre-and Post-Retirement Planning WE SOLVE • Portfolio Reviews

TBA Credit Union Investment Services Available through CUSO Financial Services*

ESTATE PLANNING, TRUST/PROBATE ADMINISTRATION AND PROBATE LITIGATION

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UPCOMING EVENTS VA R I O U S D AT E S ESTATE & WINE TOUR BLACK STAR FARMS

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Reserve time with CFS Financial Advisor Andrew Maniaci by calling 231.946.8794 *Non-deposit investment products and services are offered through CUSO Financial Services, L.P. (“CFS”), a registered broker-dealer (Member FINRA/SIPC) and SEC Registered Investment Advisor. Products offered through CFS: are not NCUA/ NCUSIF or otherwise federally insured, are not guarantees or obligations of the credit union, and may involve investment risk including possible loss of principal. Investment Representatives are registered through CFS. TBA Credit Union has contracted with CFS to make non-deposit investment products and services available to credit union members.

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Enough is enough.

While others are demanding more liquidity and scaling back service, Greenleaf Trust is sticking to principles and standing by clients. With our decades-long history of fiduciary excellence and privately held Michigan ownership, not only is our client liquidity requirement more reasonable, but also our client centric service model is more hands-on. At your beck and call are a dedicated trust relationship officer, wealth management advisor, and team service coordinator—a capable day-to-day trio supported by the full Greenleaf Trust team. It’s partly why we’ve grown to an excess of $16 billion in assets under advisement, and why 98% of our clients stick with us year after year. That, and the fact that we’re continuously improving in all the ways we serve them. Enough is enough, you see, until it’s not. Call, and let’s talk. Client relationships begin at $2 million.

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TRAVERSE CITY WEST P: 231.932.9014 W: FYZICAL.COM/TC

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“Your Home Away From Home”

Join our club of over 2500 Lifelong Learners when our fall classes start in September. Our offerings are a mix of online and in-person format and feature both local and out-of-area presenters. Check our schedule for classes in each of these series: History, Health & Wellness, Art, Nature, and Walking Tours.

DIZZY? UNSTEADY? CHRONIC PAIN?

YOU ARE NOT ALONE If you or someone you know suffers from dizziness, imbalance, or chronic pain, keep in mind that intervention is key. There are steps you can take to improve your balance, decrease chances of falling, and manage your pain.

SAMPLE CLASSES INCLUDE: • Hawks & Eagles of Michigan • Meditation for Inner Peace • Ins & Outs of Managing Hip Pain • Beginning Drawing for Watercolor

• Northern Michigan Fungi • Put Your Retirement Plan to Work • 9 Steps to Self-Publishing Your Book • Hawaiin Dance and Culture

ncmclifelonglearning.com/events MyNorth INSPIRED LIFE | FALL 2021

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MARILYN DEAR

MyNorth.com

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life first, school second New scholarship opens doors for older students to discover different careers and passions. BY KANDACE CHAPPLE | PHOTO COURTESY OF MARILYN DEAR

In 2019, Marilyn Dear graduated—at age 70—with an associate’s degree from Northwestern Michigan College in Traverse City. “I had started college before I had kids and got married,” she says. “I finished 53 years later. It felt grand!” For students like Marilyn, going back to school just got easier: The state launched the “Michigan Reconnect Scholarship” program in February, which offers free tuition for qualifying students 25 years of age and older who want to go to school and do not (yet!) have a college degree (michigan.gov/reconnect). The $30 million program is designed to bring students back to campus after a year of COVID-19 uncertainty. Marilyn’s re-entry, however, began in 2011 when her sales job was eliminated. At age 63, she says she wasn’t ready to close the book on learning just yet. She went for it—taking just one computer class that first semester at NMC. Then, she had a chance encounter with Doug Knorr, owner of Knorr Marketing in Traverse City. “Our kids had gone to school together, and he was looking for someone who knew Excel,” Marilyn says. “I told him I was taking a class on Excel, and on the last week of class, I started at Knorr.” Marilyn first started her degree at Schoolcraft Community College in 1966, and she was able to transfer her 28 credits to NMC, something NMC Director of Advising Lindsey Dickinson says is usually surprising to the student. “We know that coming to college for the first time, or coming back, can be stressful, and our goal is to connect with students wherever they are on their journey,” she says. To give students a taste of the campus, NMC offers open houses on Wednesdays from 4–7 p.m., hosted by staff from the Advising Center, Student Financial Services, the IT Help Desk and Success Coaching. Interested students can sign up ahead of time. Lindsey emphasizes that the financial piece of the school puzzle is often solvable. “Beyond the Michigan Reconnect scholarship program, our Foundation and Financial Aid office gives away more than $1 million a year in scholarships to our students,” she says. “We never want finances to get in the way of students' progress, so our team works hard in partnership with each student to make college possible.” This year, as NMC reopens much of its campus, Lindsey notes that some changes due to the pandemic bring perks.

“COVID was a game-changer for all of us, but has certainly given working adults time to think about what they want out of their future,” she says. “Many are deciding to return to school for a new or different career pathway, or to advance their skills for a current job.” The shift to online courses last year proved to be beneficial as well. “Online has been the preferred mode of course delivery for many of our working adult students,” she says. “We're excited to be back on campus this fall, but also know that our online courses are here to stay and that's an important access point for many.” Three public universities have launched tuition-free programs this year—Ferris State, Central Michigan and Saginaw Valley—with schools emphasizing the desire to help low-income students attend college. And some colleges in Michigan offer specific senior programs. At Michigan Tech, students 60 and older can have tuition waived for up to two courses per semester; Western Michigan University invites seniors 62 and older to register for one class per semester tuition-free; and Wayne State University offers seniors 60 and up a 75 percent discount on tuition. Marilyn was often the oldest student in her classes as she continued to take a couple of courses a semester while working the next nine years at Knorr. “I was definitely one of the oldest students there, but there was a nice variety of ages in each class,” she says. In one particular class, her age was an asset the teacher brought to the forefront. “I took an American History class and the teacher would periodically ask things like, ‘Okay, Marilyn, what were you doing when Kennedy was shot?’” recalls Marilyn. “I could offer first-hand information on a lot of things! [Her answer: I was in high school and we all sat in the classroom and cried.] I felt kind of funny at first—but it was kind of fun to be able to bring that life experience to the younger generation.” Marilyn is married, about to celebrate her 50th wedding anniversary and has five children (and 11 grandchildren!). “They were proud of me! The kids all came to the graduation,” she says.

We know that coming to college for the first time, or coming back, can be stressful, and our goal is to connect with students wherever they are on their journey.

Kandace Chapple is a freelance writer and owner of Michigan Girl, an event planning business. She can be reached at kandacechapple.com MyNorth INSPIRED LIFE | FALL 2021

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HIT THE ROAD With plenty of scenic spots to choose from, traveling RV-style to your favorite destinations is a breeze. BY KANDACE CHAPPLE | PHOTOS COURTESY OF NIKKI AND TOM MCCLURE

It’s no secret that RVing went big during the pandemic. People everywhere took to the outdoors—and the social distancing of camping—with joy and relief. It was one of the last few “safe” places to go. And go they did. Shopping for RVs was a game of finding and buying almost the same day—inventory was gone that quickly. But the joy of RVing is one thing that most seniors already know. Some spend weekends around the campfire with their grandkids, while others have planned their entire lives to travel the country in an RV during their later years. For Nikki and Tim McClure of Roscommon, they knew they wanted to retire as early as possible and hit the road traveling as much as they could. In 2013, they did just that. The McClures now spend about a third of the year on the road in their RV—a travel van they outfitted themselves. “We wanted to do an upgrade from tent camping upon our retirement,” says Tim, 62, a former high school art teacher. “We started seeing travel vans on our excursions and asked the folks driving them if we could take a look. After viewing several versions and countless YouTube videos, we decided we could do it ourselves and came up with a design. It is not super fancy, but fills our simple needs.” The McClures have traveled to every state, except Rhode Island. “Traveling on the road allows us time to smell the roses along our way,” says Nikki, 61, a retired physical therapist 28

assistant. “We don’t plan too much out. We are just moving. This allows us to stop where we like: a fish boil in Maine, an indigenous celebration in Alaska, a dinosaur dig in Utah, a raft trip in Idaho, and so on.” They travel about 12,000-15,000 miles a year and average about 18-22 mpg. “When coworkers would ask me if I thought I was too young to retire and if I was worried if I could afford it or not, my answer was, ‘It’s not about money, it's about time,’” Tim says. “We wanted to be able to do all the things we wanted to do, while we were still young enough to do them.” Derek Watson, owner of Nature & Me RV in Traverse City, says more and more retirees are buying RVs these days and about 35-40 percent of their clients are in that retirement age of 55 and older. “The majority in that age range are purchasing as couples, and are using the camper for more permanent, longer-stay ventures,” Derek says. “The 55+ range purchasers are usually well-versed in the particular unit they are looking for. The actual purchase process is usually streamlined, as this age group already has a plan for the funding and use of the purchase.” He adds that there’s a wide range of choices that retirees favor—from extremely small, basically sleep-only units, to high-end luxury models. “The price range can be $18,000 to $25,000, all the way up to $120,000 for some luxury models,” he says.

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PHOTO BY TIM HUSSEY

Derek says they see everyone, from brand-new campers to very experienced ones in retirement. “This age range is enjoyable to work with,” he says. “These clients are excited during the process, due to the fact, for some, this has been a lifetime of planning and saving to be able to enjoy themselves at this point in their life, and camping is the activity they have decided on!” Joe and Tina Cooper, owners of Kalkaska RV Park and Campground, say they love their senior campers, too. “A large number of our favorite campers fall into this age range,” Joe says. “They tend to be repeat guests that compliment the park and notice when we upgrade something. They are excited to come back, they fill us in on what has been going on in their personal lives and they ask about ours. Overall, they are pleasant to chit chat with.” He says they are usually in nicer rigs, and sometimes that comes with a little trouble—getting there! “Lugging those big RVs isn't always a fun experience,” he says. “But once that stress is over, and they are settled into their site, then you get to meet the wonderful campers inside.” Tina adds that the retired group tends to be a little more self-sufficient and early to bed. “With the retired age group, you see fewer late nights, less noise, fewer fires but more touristy outings,” she says. “They tend to ask a lot of questions about the area and things to do. Then they will sometimes come in and tell you new things they discovered, so we can tell others as well!” The McClures offer these tips for retirees thinking of making camping more of a lifestyle, versus a weekend outing: “To those who would like to live a similar lifestyle, our advice would be just get in the van and go!” Tim says. “We make it affordable by living rather simple lives in between trips. Traveling around without an agenda is nice. We can stop and enjoy as long as we want.” Nikki offers this advice: “Many of my older patients told me not to take time for granted, [so I wouldn’t] end up in their position where they waited too long to retire and now were unable to do the things they wanted, due to their physical condition. Don't wait!”

6 PLA CES TO RV (OR T EN T ) I N NOM I (WI T H LOVE) TIMB ER RIDG E RESORT 4050 E. HAMMO ND RD., TRAVERSE CI TY 231.947. 2770 | TI MBERRI D GERESO RT.NET

Timber Ridge Resort is an all-season, family and pet-friendly resort featuring an RV park, cabins, banquet facility, lodge and miles of wooded trails. Guests can rent one of the fourseason cabins or yurts or set up in their own tent or RV. All sites offer full hook-ups. Enjoy their heated pool, playground, dodgeball court, swimming pond with jump pad and outdoor laser tag course. This is truly an oasis in the woods just minutes from Grand Traverse Bay.

KA LKA S KA RV PA RK A N D CA MPG ROUN D 580 M-72, KALKASKA 231. 258.9863 | KALKASKACAMPGRO UND.CO M

Kalkaska RV Park and Campground is a family-owned establishment run by Joe and Tina Cooper along with their daughter, Jessica. Enjoy their outdoor heated swimming pool, nature trails and fun bike rentals at $5 each. Set up a tent or your RV in the wooded campground, or rent a private log cabin if you don’t have your own rig. This park offers an out-of-the-chaos kind of spot to enjoy Northern Michigan’s playground.

C HA NDLER HILL CA MPG ROUN D 2930 MAGEE RD., BOYNE FALLS 231.549.7878 | CHAND LERHI LLCAMPGRO UND.CO M

This Boyne Falls campground is complete with full hook-up sites, fenced dog park, 8-acre youth ORV track, ATV rentals, two playgrounds (one for younger kids, one for older), a heated outdoor pool, basketball and volleyball courts, yurts to rent and on-site propane and gasoline. Ideal for a family with gearheads!

YOG I B EA R’S J ELLYSTONE PA RK CA MP- RESORT 370 WEST 4 MI LE RD., GRAYLI NG 989. 348. 2157 | GRAYLI NGJELLYSTO NE.CO M

This campground gives you the chance to pass on the age-old tradition of talking like Yogi Bear to the kids! Enjoy visits with Yogi and Boo Boo, arts and crafts, wagon rides and nightly cartoons. You can also catch one of their themed weekends, like “Pumpkin Patch” the first two weekends of October. Enjoy their 18-hole mini golf course, basketball court, jumping pillow, pedal karts for rent and the GaGa Ball Pit. A perfect place for multi-generational camping groups.

B ETS IE RIVER CA MPS ITE 1923 RI VER RD., FRANKFO RT 231. 352.9535 | BETSI ERI VER.CO M

While the name implies otherwise, this campground is not, in fact, on the river. But it has a rustic, cozy, old-time feel that’s even harder to come by. Most sites have room for four folks, a camper or tent and a boat. The campground has a tiny café, a small playground, a fish station, warm showers and bike and kayak rentals. You can hop on the Betsie Valley Trail for a three-mile adventure to ice cream, beaches and shops. And they also rent out vintage glampers from the 1950s and ‘60s.

B RENG MA N B ROTHERS WIN ERY 9720 S. CENTER HWY., TRAVERSE CI TY 231.421.5611 | BRENGMANBROTHERS.CO M

Brengman Brothers Winery and its 45-acre Crain Hill Vineyards make for a scenic overnight stay for RVers who take part in the Harvest Host program. (Harvest Host is a network of more than 2,100 wineries, breweries, distilleries, farms and venues nationwide that invite RVers to camp at their sites. A $99 yearly fee gives members unlimited access to stay overnight at any location.) Brengman Brothers aims to produce high-quality wine that expresses the terroir of the soil, the sun and the wind. Visit their tasting room or gift shop to sample their wines, all grown and bottled on site.

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ARE YOU GETTING THE NUTRIENTS YOU NEED? Nutrient deficiencies can affect everything from nerve and muscle function to cognitive processes. BY CARLY SIMPSON continued on page 32

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Madelyn Wilcox, a registered dietitian and board-certified specialist in oncology nutrition with Munson Medical Center, shares common nutrients you may be lacking. Plus, she suggests several things that can affect how your body processes nutrients (they might surprise you). As we age, do our bodies have a harder time absorbing and utilizing nutrients? As we age, yes, we can run into problems with digestion and absorption. Most notably, I think of dentition. For instance, if a patient of mine was just recently fitted for dentures, they might not be as comfortable with certain fiber-rich foods, which could affect their intakes of fiber, magnesium, etc. In addition, if they are not chewing thoroughly, they may be missing the first major step to breaking down the nutrients in our food—mastication. That is why I encourage texture modification wherever needed—roasting, pureeing, blending or mashing are all still very viable ways to get those lovely fiberrich foods into our bodies even with a large change such as getting dentures when we get older. What about medications? Can they affect nutrition requirements? Certain medications can absolutely affect the way our bodies process various foods. For instance, certain medications can irritate our gastrointestinal tract and make it a bit more sensitive to items, which, in part, can then result in loose stools. This quicker-than-desired emptying out, if repeated over time, could indicate that our body isn’t fully able to break down all the wonderful components of our foods. So, what are the most common nutrient deficiencies for people age 55+? In my practice, I would say vitamin D, fiber, calcium, magnesium and Omega 3 fatty acids.

What role do those nutrients play in keeping our bodies healthy? The human body works in a very intricate manner and requires adequate amounts of a variety of nutrients to function properly and carry out its duties. This is why evidence-based organizations, such as the American Institute for Cancer Research, recommend focusing on optimization of diet vs. individual supplements to achieve proper nutrition. Consuming a variety of whole foods ensures our body is receiving a consistent dose in a routine format to operate at its prime. These nutrients, in particular, assist with everything from promoting a consistent

MADELYN WILCOX

bowel movement schedule (i.e. a route of detoxification for the body) to optimum cognition, nerve and muscle function, to name a few. And what foods are they found in? For starters, any whole, plant-based food item such as whole grains, fruits, vegetables, beans, seeds, lentils, legumes, etc. will have fiber to them. “Greens, beans and grains” as I like to say are those hard-hitting magnesium-rich foods. As for vitamin D and calcium, these nutrients are found in dairy products and fortified foods. However, if you follow certain dietary practices or have medical history predisposing you to osteoporosis

(i.e. breast radiation), you will want to talk with your physician if additional supplementation is warranted outside of food intake. Plant-based options for vitamin D and calcium include mushrooms and dark leafy greens, respectively speaking. And lastly, Omega 3s are found in a variety of plant and animal foods such as fatty fish, seeds (hemp, chia and flax), walnuts, seaweed/nori and various algae (spirulina). Again, if you follow a diet that restricts particular food groups, let’s say fish/seafood for instance, further supplementation may be encouraged by your physician. How would someone f ind out what nutrients they're lacking? From my experience, annual lab checks at one’s wellness visit are limited to assessing blood counts and organ system function. Further nutrient checks should be discussed on an individual basis with your physician if you have concerns that your diet may not be covering that broad spectrum, as we discussed earlier. The most common scenarios that come to mind would be if you are following a dietary pattern that restricts full food groups or live in a region, such as Northern Michigan, where we have a limited time of the year exposed to sunlight, which helps our bodies synthesize adequate vitamin D levels. Is there anything you want to add? To summarize, meeting one’s nutritional needs through diet optimization is doable and preferred vs. large doses of single nutrients. Chew your food thoroughly and adjust the textures of more fibrous food groups, if needed, in order to keep them a regular part of your consumption and dietary pattern. There is great power that comes from a diverse, nutrient-dense approach to food intake. Furthermore, if you’re not already working with a healthcare team member, here is your inspiration to do so, throughout all ages of life.

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T he Cu l i nary North local cuisine . drinks . restaurant guide

D I N I N G OUT

Find these plump pierogi at 307 Petoskey St.

750 DOZEN by CARLY SIMPSON

That’s how many pierogi a Petoskey business makes each day, mixing the dough and sealing each one by hand. (I’ll save you the calculation: 750 dozen = 9,000 tasty dumplings.)

photos by Dave Weidner

hen you think of pierogi, the fillings that typically come to mind are potatoes and cheese (and how can you go wrong with that!). But at Lost Village Pierogi in Petoskey, the traditional (and popular) potato cheddar and kielbasa kraut combos are mixed in among more uncommon options like chicken noodle soup, smokehouse pork fried rice and cherry cheesecake pierogi. There are more than 30 varieties on the growing menu, some offered daily and others only seasonally. “Every great pierogi is made with love and fond memories of family and tradition,” says co-owner Mike Kotz, who runs the Polish eatery with his wife, Holly. “I grew up with two grandmothers who lived in the kitchen, showing their love for their family by making delicious meals that were passed down from their ancestors.” The pierogi are sold frozen by the dozen to reheat at home, along with take-and-make potato pancakes and other Polish favorites such as dill pickle soup. The hot food menu—patio seating is available—also includes pierogi by the half dozen, stuffed cabbage rolls and a kielbasa and sauerkraut meal. The Kotzs relocated their business from Grand Rapids to Petoskey in December 2020 and, in addition to the offerings in Petoskey, do pop-up events across Northern Michigan, as well as selling frozen pierogi at several retail locations in the greater Grand Rapids area. They’ll even create custom pierogi if you have a favorite filling in mind (just give them a call!). lostvillagepierogi.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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8/6/21 11:33 AM

PASS THE BOOCH by CARLY SIMPSON

Fizzy, fermented and flowing across the North: Pour yourself a glass of locally made kombucha.

Bailey’s Farms Traverse City

usband-and-wife team Steve and JC Bailey, and their nephew and brewer Sawyer Porte, use teas from Light of Day Organics—North America's only Demeter-certified biodynamic tea farm—to craft their kombucha. (A fermented drink, kombucha is made with tea, sugar, bacteria and yeast—alcohol levels can vary, though commercial kombucha is non-alcoholic.) Newcomers to NoMi's “booch” scene, the Baileys began brewing in March 2021. There are eight flagship flavors—Sun in the Winter (brewed with blueberries, cherries, elderberries and grapes) is the most popular—and new ones rotate in every few months (a creamy Earl Grey is in the works). The farm portion of the business on Silver Lake Road is home to 20 bee hives and five goats, and the Baileys produce small-batch honey, and bar soap and lotion made with goats’ milk. Buy the Booch: Traverse City and Leelanau farmers markets (find schedules online), Anderson's Market in Glen Arbor, Around the Corner Food & Fun in Northport, Hansen Foods of Suttons Bay, and Oryana and Francisco’s in Traverse City. On Wednesdays, find Steve and JC at Light of Day from 12–4 p.m. for tastings and garden tours, at least until the snow flies. baileysfarms.com

JUST A BITE “Why We Cook: Women on Food, Identity, and Connection” while the students in your family gather all the books they’ll

need for fall term, don’t forget to nab a title for yourself—like “Why We Cook” (Workman, 2021), written by Leland's Lindsay Gardner. This compilation of vignettes and recipes from some of the most influential women in food includes Michiganders such as Farm Club opening chef Abra Berens and Dinner with Your Muslim Neighbor’s Amanda Saab—both of whom have impressive life stories. Also impressive, Gardner's marvelous watercolor illustrations. Equal parts author and artist, Gardner is a talented painter who now calls Northern Michigan home. –STACEY BRUGEMAN whywecookbook.com, $25

Cultured Kombucha Traverse City

Perhaps a more well-known name in the area, Cultured Kombucha was launched in 2015 by Courtney Lorenz. What started as a small operation with three 5-gallon containers has grown into a 5,000-squarefoot facility with a taproom (visit for exclusive flavors on tap that you won’t find in stores, like Nanner Bread). Or, purchase a homebrew kit via the online shop that includes kombucha cultures, ingredients, equipment and instructions. Buy the Booch: Cultured Kombucha announced a 22-store distribution deal with Meijer in June, and can be found at markets and eateries across the state. Find a location near you on Cultured Kombucha’s website. Those in Traverse City can stop by the taproom (3842 Jupiter Cresent Dr.) or the keg station at Oryana’s 10th street location for growler refills. drinkcultured.com

Superior Culture Marquette

The team at Superior Culture, led by owner/brewmaster Alex Rowland, is constantly experimenting with new flavors, so there’s always something new being poured from the 10 rotating taps. Concord grape (a fall favorite), tarragon fennel and orange juniper are just some of the many that have been concocted. In addition to alcoholic and non-alcoholic kombucha, Superior Culture also offers nano-brewed beers, ciders, meads and seltzers. Buy the Booch: Bring a jug to fill at the taproom (717 3rd St.) or purchase bottled kombucha online for pickup or local delivery in Marquette. superiorculturemqt.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

0921_TVM_culinary north2.indd 47

photo courtesy Bailey's Farms

T he Cu l i nary North Trends

8/2/21 8:45 PM

The Culinary North

GUIDE R E S T A U R A N T

PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS

The Doghouse Hot dogs, nachos, chips and more. Picnic tables

under big umbrellas. Located at Windermere Point on the Straits of Mackinac. 7498 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.6586 LD • $

Feedbag Donuts made daily. Hot dogs, brats and more. Located

near the Surrey Hills Carriage Museum. 7531 3RD ST., MACKINAC

ISLAND, 906.847.3593 BL • $

The Gate House Casual inside and outside eating with live

music and televisions. 1547 CADOTTE AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND,

906.847.3772 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

Grand Hotel Main Dining Room—coat and tie for gentlemen, dresses or pantsuits for ladies, for full breakfast, lunch buffet and five-course dinner. 286 GRAND AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3331 BLD • BAR • $$$ •

Great Turtle Brewery & Distillery Opened in 2020 serving

signature beers from Right Brain Brewery and private-label spirits from Les Cheneaux Distillery along with burgers, flatbreads and more. 7452 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0260 LD • BAR • $$ Horn’s Gaslight Bar Southwestern cuisine. 7300 MAIN ST.,

ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/CHEBOYGAN/ INDIAN RIVER/ODEN

MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.6154 LD • BAR • $

Black Mountain Lodge Hikers on Black Mountain love set-

MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8255 LD • BAR • $-$$

tling in post-walkabout for the glorious view of East Twin Lake and freshly prepared trout, perch, quail, lobster and homemade bread with honey-walnut butter. 10621 TWIN LAKES RD., CHEBOY-

sandwiches, sweet potato fries and creative martinis. 6966 MAIN

Island Slice Pizzeria, bakery and ice cream shop. Located at the Horse Corral Mall. 7248 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND,

The Greenside Grille at Indian River Golf Club Serving a

Jockey Club at the Grand Stand Located on the first tee

906.847.8100 LD • $

complete menu and Happy Hour offerings overlooking the 9th hole. 3301 CHIPPEWA BEACH RD., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.8515 LD •

of The Jewel golf course. Sandwiches, salads, full dinner menu.

BAR • $–$$$

1874 CADOTTE AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9212 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

Hack-Ma-Tack Inn Classic 1894-era hunting and fishing

Kingston Kitchen at the Village Inn Traditional American

the Bay Harbor marina. 820 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.2770

fare with Jamaican inspiration. 1384 HOBAN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3542 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

The Lawn at Stonecliffe A fast casual eatery located at The

Inn at Stonecliffe. Some indoor seating and beautiful outdoor seating with views of Mackinac Bridge. 8593 CUDAHY CIR., MACKI-

LD • BAR $$-$$$ •

NAC ISLAND, 906.847.3355 LD • BAR • $$

Mulligan’s Inviting pub with steamed littleneck clams, shrimp-

Lucky Bean Coffeehouse Fresh pastries and coffee all day.

topped burgers and pasta. 320 NORTH MAIN ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.627.2459 LD • BAR • $–$$

The Queens Head Wine pub serving wine, spirits and draft

beer along with delectable pub fare. 250 N. HURON ST., CHEBOY-

GAN, 231.445.7101 LD • BAR $

Vintage Chophouse/Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH

COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE, HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051 LD • BAR • $-$$$

Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlife-

decorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas.

4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.9471 LD • BAR • $-$$

MACKINAC ISLAND & MACKINAW CITY Amigo Burrito Mexican Grill Burritos, tacos and quesadillas

Seabiscuit Café Cozy exposed-brick walled pub in a restored 1880s bank building. Sip a brew and dine on a wonderfully eclectic menu. 7337 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3611 LD • BAR • $-$$

Sushi Grand Mackinac Island’s first and only sushi restaurant opens this year. 1547 CADOTTE AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3331 EXT. 671 LD •BAR • $$-$$$

Tea Room at Fort Mackinac Refreshments with a view of the harbor and Straits of Mackinac. INSIDE FORT MACKINAC, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.6327 BL • BAR • $ •

Yankee Rebel Tavern Warm, casual restaurant highlighting updated renditions of American culinary classics in a rustic, colonial setting. 1493 ASTOR ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.6249

that offers casual fine dining, extensive wine list and duck pin bowling. 8655 CUDAHY CIR., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3699 LD •

sandwiches on famous homemade bread. 7611 US-31, ALANSON,

BEEBE RD., CHEBOYGAN, 231.625.2919 LD • BAR • $-$$ •

906.847.4066 LD •BAR • $-$$

Island House 1852 Grill Room—Prime rib, chicken, seafood, veal. Ice House BBQ—casual dining, burgers, gourmet

Dutch Oven Bakery French toast, farmer’s omelette stratas and

Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on

Smokey Jose's Waterside restaurant where BBQ and bourbon meet tacos & tequila. 7263 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND,

LD • BAR • $$

ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3347 LD • BAR • $$

lodge on the Cheboygan River near Mullett Lake specializes in steaks and seafood. Dock space and overnight slips. 8131

MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3341 BLD • BAR • $$ •

Huron Street Pub & Grill Classic pub food. 7304 MAIN ST.,

GAN, 231.625.9322 D • BAR • $$-$$$ •

231.548.2231 BL • $

The Pink Pony Bar & Grill The island’s entertainment oasis—loud, bustling, with pastas and steaks. 7221 MAIN ST.,

7383 MARKET ST., MACKINAC ISLAND $

Woods Restaurant Elegant mansion in the island’s interior BAR • $$$

Audie’s Chippewa Room—Whitefish prepared six ways by

Chef Nicklaus Jaggi along with seasonal Michigan fare. D • BAR • $$ The Family Room—Northwoodsy ambience, Formica tabletops. BLD • BAR • $$ 314 N. NICOLET ST., MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.5744

Darrow’s Family Restaurant '50s-era classic eatery open

seasonally with fresh fish, roast pork and beef, sky-high pies, and other wholesome family fare. 301 LOUVIGNEY ST., MACKINAW

CITY, 231.436.5514 LD • $-$$

Nonna Lisa’s Italian Ristorante Stromboli, chicken parmesan, rosemary salmon, Nutella pizza. 312 S. HURON, MACKINAW

CITY, 231.436.7901 LD • BAR • $-$$

Scalawags Whitefish & Chips Family restaurant with a nautical atmosphere features local whitefish, chowder and, of course, chips. 226 E. CENTRAL AVE., MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.7777 LD • BAR • $-$$

Mary’s Bistro Well-rounded menu of bistro fare and the most

CROSS VILLAGE/HARBOR SPRINGS/ PELLSTON/PETOSKEY

LD • BAR • $-$$ •

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. 215 E. LAKE ST. PETOSKEY, 231.753.2221

taps on the island. 7463 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9911

Mighty Mac Hamburgers Breakfast sandwiches, burgers,

hot dogs, chicken sandwiches and more. Indoor seating or carryout. 7463 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8039 LD • $

LD • BAR • $$

The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes,

Millie’s on Main Charming soda fountain and grill. 7294 MAIN

home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. 1900 US-31, PETOSKEY, 231.347.5583 BL • $

Mission Point Resort Bistro on the Greens—LD • BAR •

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients. Seminole Pub. 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3000

ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9901 LD • $

$-$$ Round Island Kitchen—Burgers and sandwiches. LD • BAR • $-$$ Chianti—upscale, affordable Italian. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Boxwood Coffeeshop & Cafe—lattes, croissants, wine and grab-and-go food. BLD • BAR • $$ 1 LAKESHORE DRIVE, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3312

BLD • BAR • $–$$

Chandler’s Dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to

savor this eatery’s upscale menu. 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BEHIND SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

made to order. Dine in or carry out. Located in Murray Hotel’s lobby. 7260 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 855.696.8772 LD • $

Murray Hotel Breakfast buffet of scrambled eggs, home-style

potatoes, sausage, bacon and more. 7260 MAIN ST., MACKINAC IS-

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany

Cannonball Oasis Burgers, sandwiches, pizza, ice cream,

LAND, 855.696.8772 B • $

BRITISH LANDING RD., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0932 LD • $

Mustang Lounge Traditional bar grub, burgers, dogs, pizza and an array of great fried munchies. 1485 ASTOR ST., MACKINAC

LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101 LD • BAR • $$

ISLAND, 906.847.9916 BL • BAR • $-$$

Cormack’s Deli Award-winning deli featuring fabulous

bar. Regional menu: whitefish, filet mignon and seafood. 7485

Pancake House Breakfast sandwiches, omelettes, Plath

231.347.7570 BL • $

The Chuckwagon Mackinac Island’s quintessential diner. 7400

7245 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3829 BL • $

fried pickles and more. Located at historic British Landing. 7641 Carriage House at Hotel Iroquois Old-World charm, piano

MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND 906.847.3321 BLD • BAR • $$$ • MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0019 BL • $-$$

smoked meats, waffles, pancakes, deli sandwiches and more.

bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. 432 E. sandwiches, soups and BBQ. 2569 CHARLEVOIX AVE., PETOSKEY,

Dam Site Inn With views of the Maple River, this classic family dining establishment offers a bit of everything plus all-you-caneat chicken dinners. 6705 WOODLAND RD., PELLSTON, 231.539.8851 D • BAR • $$-$$$

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The Culinary North Douglas Lake Bar & Steakhouse Up North ambience, two

Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. 1200 N. US-31, PETOSKEY, 231.347.9291 LD • BAR • $

D • BAR • $$$

231.409.7088 LD • BAR • $-$$

Small Batch Quiche, inventive breakfast and lunch sand-

Dockside Burgers, beer and sunsets on Torch Lake. 6340 OLD

fireplaces and a view of the lake pair with big steaks, whitefish, ribs and lamb. 11001 DOUGLAS LAKE RD., PELLSTON, 231.539.8588

Duffy’s Garage and Grille Pasta, burgers, inventive pizzas. 317 E. LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3663 LD • BAR • $$

The Garden Café Farm-to-plate experience in a historic barn set on a working farm at Pond Hill Farm. Wine tasting from the on-site vineyard. 5699 S. LAKE SHORE DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3276 L • LIGHT D • BAR • $

Hoppies Landing Pizzas, grinders, nachos, local fish, specialty

brews, beautiful views from the Observation Lounge. Pellston Regional Airport. 1395 US-31, PELLSTON, 231.539.8900 LD • BAR • $-$$

wiches in a creative atmosphere. 340 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4686 BL • $

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with a big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231.347.2771 BLD • $$-$$$ Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with a wraparound

front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. 100 LEWIS ST.,

PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000 LD • BAR • $$–$$$

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—fresh

Corner Bistro French-inspired small plates, classic cocktails, wine, beer, Sunday brunch. 102 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE,

TORCH LAKE DR., BELLAIRE, 231.377.7777 LD • BAR • $-$$ •

Friske Orchards Cafe Cheerful roadside restaurant features

farm-fresh breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and a bakery. 10743 US-31 S., ATWOOD, 231.599.2604 BL • $

Lake Street Pub American pub with outdoor patio and firepit, Bier mac ‘n’ cheese, cocktails, 26 beers on tap. 202 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6031 LD • $

Lunch Box Good home cooking and breakfast all the time. 106 E. CAYUGA ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6678 BL • $

seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS,

Mico's Torch Riviera The best of Italian and American food.

231.526.6201

12899 CHERRY AVE. RAPID CITY, 231.322.4100 LD • BAR • $$

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250 BL • $

Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito

The Muffin Tin Brain-bendingly good muffins, scones and

PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572 LD • BAR • $-$$

Pelican's Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches,

Legs Inn Timber and driftwood landmark set on a bluff above Lake Michigan that has been serving Polish and American specialties for the better part of a century. 6425 LAKE SHORE

Teddy Griffin’s Roadhouse Casual spot to grab ribs, steak or fresh fish after golf or skiing and catch the game on TV.

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299 LD • $

DR. (M-119), CROSS VILLAGE, 231.526.2281 LD • BAR • $$

Mim’s Mediterranean Grill A sunny hangout with home-

made falafel, kebabs, spinach pie, saganaki and other Greek delights. 1823 US-31 NORTH, PETOSKEY, 231.348.9994 LD • $-$$

pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. 422 E. MITCHELL ST.,

50 HIGHLAND PIKE RD., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.7805 D • BAR • $$

lunch too. 9110 HELENA RD., ALDEN, 231.676.2040 BL • $

salads and homemade desserts. 5085 SHANTY CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000 D • BAR $-$$

Provisions Wine Lounge Sommelier curated wines by the

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a

glass and bottle, classic cocktails, Michigan craft beer and small plates. 123 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.2151 LD • BAR • $$

• BAR • $$

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.0049 LD • BAR • $$

Victorian setting. 1549 GLENDALE AVE., PETOSKEY, 231.347.2410 D

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh pea-

noodles, curries and salads. 433 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY,

ELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801 LD • BAR • $-$$

Turkey’s Cafe & Pizzeria Special omelettes, bagels, French

Stiggs Brewery Hand-crafted brews, from-scratch food like whitefish cakes, bourbon chicken sandwich, top sirloin wagyu steak. 112 S. PARK ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6100 LD • BAR $-$$

PELLSTON, 231.539.8528 LD • BAR • $-$$

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6041 BLD • BAR • $-$$

Nancy Kelly's Restaurant Fine dining with a flair. Chef-

Vernales Restaurant Chop house, sports bar and wine bar

The Strand at Sommerset Pointe Fresh fish and locally sourced ingredients. Enjoy a breathtaking view of Sommerset Pointe Marina and Lake Charlevoix while you dine. 00970 MA-

US-31, PELLSTON, 231.539.7100 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

• BAR • $-$$$

Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cui-

The New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes

Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco

nuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. 426 E. MITCHMoose Jaw Junction Famous for fish, burgers, Mexican food, pizza and your favorite beverages. 966 W. VAN RD.,

prepared gourmet food. Crafted cocktails and a full bar. 230 N.

like heaven. 101 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904 D •

BAR • $$-$$$

Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining

with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY, 877.442.6464 D • BAR • $$-$$$

231.487.9900 LD • $-$$

toast, burgers, pizzas, calzones, and sandwiches—served by friendly folks in a quaint 110-year-old building. 250 E. MAIN ST., with patio dining. 3018 M-119, HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4777 LD

walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso buco and hand-rolled cannoli star. 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale

dining, outdoor seating and an evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321 LD • BAR • $$-$$$ •

The Paper Station Fresh, relaxed and inventive foods including five signature s’mores. 145 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4680 LD • BAR • $$

Pierson’s Grille & Spirits Ribs, whitefish, pizza, burgers and

other staples of life. 130 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2967

BLD • BAR • $-$$$

Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads,

soups, bruschetta. 422 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

Roast & Toast Hip coffeehouse with daily house-made soups,

bread, bakery items and salads. On-site coffee roasting. A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. 309 E. LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767 BLD • $

Rusty Saw North Traditional barbecue. 3459 US31, BRUTUS,

BAR • $$ •

SPRINGS, 231.412.6032 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine

global wine and craft cocktail bar. 129 EAST BAY ST., HARBOR

from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. 121 N. BRIDGE

ST., BELLAIRE, 231.498.2300 LD • BAR • $-$$

CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES

Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contemporary

ALDEN/ATWOOD/BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/ RAPID CITY/WALLOON

ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301 D • BAR • $$

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet

pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. 4069 M-75, WALLOON LAKE,

231.535.6000 LD • BAR • $-$$$

American food with a focus on local ingredients. 213 N. BRIDGE

Toonies Family restaurant serving fresh-cut steaks, local fish, ribs and some of the biggest pancakes in the north. 216 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.8513 BLD • BAR • $-$$

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a

freshest ingredients Northern Michigan has to offer whenever possible. 02911 BOYNE CITY RD., BOYNE CITY. 231.582.3341 D • BAR

newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999 D • BAR • $$-$$$ •

Boyne City Taproom Craft beer, wood-fired pizzas, wraps, burgers. 220 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.459.4487 LD • BAR •

CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/ EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH

Bella Vita Casual fine dining Italian restaurant that utilizes the

• $$-$$$

$-$$

Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge—

Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern— American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$

231.529.6574 LD • $$

1 BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS 855.688.7024

Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics.

oven pizzeria. 324 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.489.8278 BL • $

sine at Shanty Creek Resort. Breakfast, lunch & dinner; The River Bistro—Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, lunch, (spring-fall); Ivan’s Mountainside Grill—Schuss Village-Pub food. 1 SHANTY CREEK RD. (M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111 BLD •

Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American cuisine with

Old World Cafe European-style breakfast and lunch. 6352 N. LAKESHORE DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6992 BL • $$

RINA DR., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.9900 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

The Blue Pelican A vintage 1924 inn, home to a genteel front

porch, Carolina-style pulled pork, steaks, seafood and a blend of Down South and Up North hospitality. 2535 M-88, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.544.2583 D • BAR • $$

Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beer-friendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. 202 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466 LD • BAR • $-$$ •

1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 BLD • BAR • $-$$ •

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The Culinary North The Cantina Tacos and tequila with indoor and outdoor seating. Live entertainment. 101 VAN PELT PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3612

Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in, at a wine

LEELANAU COUNTY

LD • BAR • $-$$

• BAR • $-$$

Charlevoix Pizza Company Scratch-made dough, fresh in-

Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef

9 Bean Rows Artisan bakery, cafe and farmstead known for French-style breads, croissants and assorted pastries. 9000 E.

East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featur-

ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901 LD • $

BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450 LD • BAR • $$–$$$

bar on the Elk River. 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9000 BLD

Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. 147 RIVER ST.,

DUCK LAKE RD., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6658 BL • $

ing prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails. 307

Gates Au Sable Lodge Artful home cooking on the river with

a takeout window for anglers. 471 STEPHAN BRIDGE RD., GRAYLING,

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling

989.348.8462 BLD • BAR • $-$$ •

Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. 6487 W. WEST-

CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300 D • $-$$$

Harbor Cafe Traditional breakfasts and lunches with some

fun specialities like cinnamon swirl pancakes and a Reuben omelette. 129 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8700 BL • $

Barb’s Bakery House-baked goods famous for cinnamon

twists, doughnuts, croissants and more. 112 N. MILL ST., NORTH-

The Front Porch Sit elbow-to-elbow with neighbors for fel-

Blu Exquisite regional cuisine from chef Randy Chamberlain in an intimate setting on Sleeping Bear Bay. LAKE ST., GLEN ARBOR,

lowship and affordable home-cooked food. 9235 MAIN ST., ELLS-

NEW Jac's Parlor Serving pizzas, toasted subs, salads, calzones, breadsticks and Moomer’s ice cream (in the former Cone Corral building). 115 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.6880 LD • $$

WORTH, 231.588.2000 BL • $

Moose & Stella's Cafe Kalkaska's only dog-themed cafe.

Grey Gables Restaurant Graceful, intimate, Victorian atmo-

Doggone good chow. 203 S CEDAR ST., KALKASKA, 231.258.9778 BL

The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927. Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative global feasts during the off-season. Sun. brunch. 102 E.

gredients, golden crust, prepared daily. Plus, cheesy bread and wings. 311 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6300 LD • $-$$

technique in this specialty food and wine shop. 12853 US-31 N.,

That French Place Authentic French crêperie and ice cream

shop. 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 BLD • $

sphere across from the harbor. 308 BELVEDERE AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.9261 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Jordan Inn Victorian B&B with terrific eggs Benedict and

crêpe-style pancakes, fresh lunches and European-style dinners by reservation. 228 MAIN ST., EAST JORDAN, 231.536.9906 BLD •

• $-$$

The Iron Skillet All the classics (corned beef hash and the

Royal Farms Boutique farm market with meat pasties, baked

goods, award-winning pies, hard cider, wine. 10445 N. US-31,

ELLSWORTH, 231.599.3222 L • BAR • $-$$

Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and

baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food. 111

BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827 LD • $-$$

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional

cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with a massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel. 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311 LD • BAR • $$ •

lake view, steaks and seafood. 1535 OPAL LAKE RD., GAYLORD, 989.939.8800 LD • BAR • $–$$

The Old Depot 1900s train depot features homestyle burgers,

steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. 10826 M-32

E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115 BLD • $$

Otsego Resort American and international menu, nice wine list in a log lodge overlooking the Sturgeon River Valley. The Duck Blind Grille—Casual evening dining. 696 M-32, GAYLORD, 989.732.5181 D • BAR • $$

Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. 227 E. MICHIGAN AVE., GRAYLING, 989.745.6388 LD • BAR • $$

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at

this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively zydeco, jazz and blues. 617 AMES

Villager Pub A Charlevoix hangout for nearly four decades,

with two distinct sections. The tavern side with its '50s memorabilia and an area with more intimate dining. Known for Great Lakes whitefish, Mexican, ribs and pizza. 427 BRIDGE ST., CHARLE-

WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210 BLD • $

Spike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since

1933. 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113 LD • BAR • $

Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. 216 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5524 BLD • BAR • $$-$$$

Tap Room 32 Twenty handles of Michigan craft beers and a

VOIX, 231.547.6925 LD • BAR • $-$$

menu of modern brew-friendly vittles like truffle fries and Korean beef tacos. 140 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.748.8552 D • $$

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING/ KALKASKA/MANCELONA

The Town Club of Elk Rapids This famous landmark is ap-

NEW American House Wood Fired Pizza Full-service res-

taurant with Marra Forni wood-fired brick pizza oven. Full menu and traditional Neapolitan-style pizzas made with San Marzano tomatoes and fresh ingredients. 151 RIVER ST., 231.264.6062 LD •

BAR • $$

Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and

updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting. Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. 3917 SOUTH OLD 27, GAYLORD,

989.732.9288 LD • BAR • $-$$$

Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers, hand-cut fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling rink. 172 W. BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869 LD • BAR • $

Cedar City Market Specialty grocery and butchery with local

meats and family- and individually-sized take-and-bake items. 8974 S. KASSON ST., 231.835.2222 LD • $

The Cove Seafood, steaks and great bar food (don’t miss the Chubby Mary—a bloody Mary with a smoked chub in it!) served up in the heart of Fishtown on the Leland River. 111 W. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9834 LD • BAR • $$-$$$ •

Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches, pizza. 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.9912 LD • BAR • $-$$

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such

ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799 D • BAR • $$

US-31 N., CENTRAL LAKE, 231.599.1111 BLD • BAR • $-$$$

JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688 LD • BAR • $$

Ray's BBQ, Brews & Blues A BBQ joint on the banks of the Au Sable River. 204 INGHAM ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.1515 LD •

Shirley’s Café An ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. 528 S.

options like the seafood platter with black garlic butter. 4990

Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff. 102

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season. 7144 N.

BAR • $$ •

Torch Lake Cafe Inventive, ultra-fresh cuisine with sharable

steaks. 5858 MANITOU BLVD., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444 LD • BAR

ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530 LD • BAR • $-$$

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin

ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. 101 ANTRIM

RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081 LD • BAR • $$ •

• $$

Michaywé Inn the Woods Casual, Up Northy, with a

BLD • $-$$

231.334.2530 D • BAR • $$$$ •

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better. 145

LIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.9778 BLD • $-$$ AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190 BL • $$

Pigs Eatin’ Ribs Real smokehouse with mouthwatering BBQ. Weekend breakfast. 1418 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7447

PORT, 231.386.5851 BL • $

Boone Docks Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers,

BAR • $-$$$

• BAR • $-$$ •

ERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754 BLD • BAR • $-$$

beloved smoked brisket) with some fun additions. 524 S. WIL-

The Landing Restaurant Come by boat or car and watch the

Ironton Ferry motor back and forth while you eat at this newly renovated lakeside fun-food spot on Lake Charlevoix. Beach fries, New England lobster roll, great burgers, BBQ and other fab summertime food. 10231 FERRY RD., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.9036 LD

45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and lunch. 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 BL • $-$$

preciated for its Friday Night Perch Fry and famous Prime Rib Thursdays. 133 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9914 LD • BAR • $$

Treetops Resort, Hunter's Grille, & Sports Bar Steak,

burgers, ribs, pasta, signature pizza, chicken, fish and glutenfree selections. 3962 WILKINSON RD., GAYLORD, 866.348.5249 BLD

• BAR • $-$$$

Trout Town Café Homey fishermen’s spot with sautéed

rainbow trout and eggs, pecan-crusted French toast for breakfast; braised brisket and home-roasted turkey for dinner. 306 ELM

M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923 LD • BAR • $

as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. 4566 MCFARLANE, MAPLE CITY/ BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900 D • BAR • $$

Garage Bar & Grill BBQ & bar eats are served at this pared-

down watering hole with garage doors & a dog-friendly patio.

108 S WAUKAZOO ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.5511 LD • BAR • $-$$

Hannah’s Stop into Hannah's for cakes, cupcakes, ice cream and gifts from local merchants. 112 E. PHILLIPS ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.994.2068 LD • $

Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table

menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. 10844 E. REVOLD RD., SUTTONS BAY, 231.944.1297 LD •

BAR • $-$$

The Homestead Whiskers Bar & Grill—pizza, wood-grilled ribs, burgers and more. Dine inside and out. D • BAR • $-$$ 1 WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000

Hop Lot Brewing Co. Family-friendly microbrewery with four-season patio and games serving ribs, tacos, wings and a s’more kit to top it all off. 658 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4445 LD • BAR • $-$$

Hang-On Express Thai and Chinese classics. 316 ST. JOSEPH,

SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.0202 LD • $

ST., KALKASKA, 231.258.2701 BLD • $

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The Culinary North The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. 115 WEL-

Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. 11015 FRONT ST.,

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA

EMPIRE, 231.326.5506 BLD • BAR • $$

INTERLOCHEN

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. 5019 BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OM-

Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout

Charles & Reid Detroit Pizza Specializing in Detroit-style

ENA, 231.386.7393 LD • BAR • $-$$ •

• BAR • $-$$

113 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.3497 D • $$

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal

Bud’s A reprise of the original Bud’s gas/bait shop is a cool hangout for locals, vacationers and Interlochen students. Try the cappuccinos and monkey bread, burgers and original sandwiches. 3061 M-137, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.9090 BLD • $

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. 129 S.

paradise. C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3944 D • BAR •

$$-$$$

Leland Lodge Bogey's 19th Hole open for lunch 7 days a

week. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 565 PEARL ST., LELAND, 231.256.9848

Little Traverse Inn Old World gastro pub highlights the food

and beer of the British Isles. 149 E. HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY. 231. 228.2560 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

Lylah’s Sandwiches and salads made to order, homemade

soups, sauces and dressings. 99 W. 4TH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.994.2700 BL • $

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. 497 E. HAR-

BOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422 BLD • BAR • $

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an

emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch. 413 N. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344 BLD • BAR • $-$$$

NEW Nittolo's Restaurants Two restaurants under one roof. Nittolo's Pizza: Unique brick-oven pizzas—classic cheese and pepperoni, but also Spanish, Napoli and Greek. Seafood & Social: Ora king salmon, Alaska halibut, Chilean sea bass and more. 104 MAIN ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.994.2400 LD • $$-$$$ North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the

classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. 420 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000 LD • BAR • $$

The Mitten Brewing Co. Small craft brewery featuring appetizers, indoor lounge, covered patio and beer garden. 112 W. NAGANOBA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1101 LD • BAR • $

New Bohemian Cafe A neighborhood coffee shop and deli,

also home to Baia Estate Winery tasting room. 110 S. WAUKAZOO ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1034 BL • $-$$

and so much more. 10586 US-31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.6401 LD

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. 2784 M-137, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6979 LD • BAR • $-$$

Oaky’s Tavern Burgers, pizza, pasta, sandwiches. Friday night

specials. 9205 US-31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6244 LD • BAR • $-$$

OLD MISSION PENINSULA Bad Dog Deli Eat shrimp pizza, pepperoni pesto rolls or fla-

vorful Boar’s Head sandwiches in this peninsula outpost. 14091

CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.9364 L • $

Boathouse Restaurant Casually elegant spot with great

LACORE RD., EMPIRE, 231.835.2580 BL • $

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas,

great beer list and more. 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, breakfast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers. 110 E. NAGONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055 BLD • $

Trish’s Dishes Crêpes, omelettes, salads, gourmet sandwich-

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233 LD • BAR • $

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs

at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. 310 S. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310 LD • $-$$ •

The Flying Noodle House-made fresh pastas and sauces,

sandwiches and salads, and a signature brick chicken dish. 136

E. FRONT ST., 231.252.4725 LD • BAR • $$

Folgarelli’s Market & Wine Shop Lunch & dinner (eat here or to go), gourmet groceries, wines imported & local, vast selection of cured meats and cheese. 424 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.941.7651 LD • BAR • $-$$

steaks, seafood, large local wine selection. Sunday brunch.

Frenchies Famous Three tables and carryout, offers superb hot sandwiches and espresso drinks. 619 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. 13512 PENINSULA DR.,

Gitche Crisp Cereal Bar A selection of 12 classic cereals,

14039 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4030 D • BAR • $$$$$ •

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333 LD • BAR • $$

Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, lo-

cally sourced fare and craft cocktails. 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4222 D • BAR • $-$$ •

Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials—this lushly landscaped spot hosts two fine-art galleries: Bella Galleria and sculptor/owner Verna Bartnick’s studio. 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.7280 LD • BAR • $$

ers, and regional Northern fare. 14091 CENTER RD. TRAVERSE CITY,

Riverfront Pizza & Deli Pizza, sandwiches, soup, salad and

plain buns made daily for made-to-order sandwiches. 11691 S.

West Bay Beach Holiday Inn Resort. 615 FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. 108 S. UNION,

231.223.7200 LD • BAR • $$

Shipwreck Café Fresh, homemade pretzel, Italian herb and

Dayclub Fine dining experience for the whole family at the

231.275.3005 BLD • $

ing served in a homey atmosphere. 11303 US-31, INTERLOCHEN,

231.228.6692 BL • $

WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3876 LD • $-$$

UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821 BLD • $

231.947.3700 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

Peninsula Grill Roadhouse with cozy fireplace, wings, burg-

daily specials. Lots of desserts. Deck on the Crystal River. 6281

pizza. Other menu offerings include salads and sandwiches.

Dilbert’s Soups, sandwiches, omelettes and other home cook-

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads

and breakfast—all done well. 8654 S. MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY,

LINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700 LD • $$-$$$

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street

patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. 229 E. FRONT

CITY, 231.944.1228 LD • $

rotating options for milks and toppings, featuring Moomer’s ice cream. Outdoor seating available. 319 EAST FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 646.450.0421 BL • $

The Good Bowl Fast casual Vietnamese. 328 E. FRONT

ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662 LD • BAR $-$$

The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads. 115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687 BL • $

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies,

coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437 BL • $ NEW Hexenbelle Serving items like housemade hummus

and flatbread, coconut curry fried rice, chocolate olive oil cake and locally roasted BLK MRKT Coffee. 144 HALL ST., SUITE 107, 231.486.6128 BL • $

Little G’s Fusion Cuisine Asian and Latin taqueria. 531 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY LD • $

ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888 LD • BAR • $$-$$$ •

Little Fleet An open-air bar with food trucks. 448 E. FRONT ST.,

Bay Bread Company Bakery with 43 artisanal breads, sandwiches, soups and salads. 601 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.

Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers

922.8022 BLD • $

Benedict A family-friendly restaurant offering breakfast and

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1116 LD • BAR • $

great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty charburgers, fish and ribs. 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100

lunch sandwiches, pastries, salads, soups and more. 237 LAKE

LD • BAR • $$

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with from-

of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. 149 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2793 LD • BAR • $$

AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1000 BL • $-$$

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix

Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung

scratch food. Be sure to check out The Shed next door where you'll find a beer garden and a food truck where sliders are served up hot. 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515 LD • BAR

Milk & Honey Salads, sandwiches and homemade ice

WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3362 LD • BAR • $$

NEW Brasserie Amie A Parisian-style brasserie bistro in

231.944.1036 LD • BAR • $

es. 407 E. MAIN ST., LELAND, 231.994.2288 BLD • $

from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. 6680

• $-$$

cream all made with local ingredients that are natural, GMOfree and organic when possible. 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Wren Contemporary comfort food and a constantly changing

downtown TC serving up brunch and dinner. 160 E. FRONT ST.,

Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American

ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.1175 D • BAR • $$

Brew Café and Bar Hip spot for a drink and light meal be-

231.946.5093 BLD • BAR • $$

menu to feature locally sourced ingredients. 303 N. ST. JOSEPH

231.753.3161 LD • BAR • $$

fore or after performances at the Opera House. 108 E. FRONT ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.2739 BLD • $

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads and tacos. 428 E. FRONT ST., TRA-

menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. 300 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, well-aged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832 LD • BAR • $$

VERSE CITY, 231.995.0570 BLD • BAR • $

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The Culinary North

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325 LD • BAR • $$

NEW Oakwood Proper Burgers High-quality, locally-sourced,

sustainable ingredients, from the MOO-ville ice cream to the burger and the bun. 1108 E. 8TH ST., 231.253.1513 LD • $$

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelettes, homemade breads

and pastries, soup and sandwiches. 124 CASS ST., 231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590 BLD • $

Paesano’s Charming spot with cozy booths puts pizza pie on

a pedestal. 447 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.5740 LD • $

Pangea’s Pizza Craft pies, creative toppings and a rooftop

Text or call ahead for orders. 510 W. 14TH ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.633.7423 LD • $-$$

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST Bardon’s Wonder Freeze A family-owned Traverse City icon, serving ice cream and sandwiches for more than 50 years. 1100 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1044 LD • $

Cottage Café Comfort food, coffee and tea press pots, friendly service, reasonable prices and famous for all-you-can-eat freshwater perch.472 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9261 BLD • $-$$

deck and bar. 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800 LD

Cuppa Joe Eastside A locally owned, community-oriented cof-

Park Street Cafe Fresh-made gourmet sandwiches (breakfast

US-31, N. STE. F, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.3247 BL • $

• BAR $-$$

fee shop focusing primarily on curbside and to-go orders. 1990

waffle sandwich!) and other grab-and-go foods. Indoor and outdoor seating. 113 S. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1747 BL • $

Don’s Drive-In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. 2030 US-31 N., TRAVERSE

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7632 LD • BAR

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor pan-

• $-$$

NEW Rad.ish Street Food Featuring gourmet plant-based cuisines—all farm-to-table, seasonal vegetables and herbs, vegan sushi, housemade tofu and more. 346 E. FRONT ST., SUITE #2, 231.943.1145, AND 3593 BUNKER HILL RD., WILLIAMSBURG, 231.421.5077 LD • $

Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on

the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer.

229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053 LD • BAR • $$

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh, sleek surroundings and

CITY, 231.938.1860 LD • $

orama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends.

D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ 100 GRAND TRAVERSE BLVD., ACME, 231.534.6000

La Señorita Bustling Mexican cantina with fajitas, jumbo margaritas. 2455 N. US-31 S., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.4545 LD • BAR • $

McGee’s No. 72 Gourmet burgers, fries, pizza and other

sophisticated bar food. 4341 M-72 E., WILLIAMSBURG, 231.421.8800 D • BAR • $$

Mr. C’s Pub and Grill Fine pub food and entrees paired with

excellent wines and craft beers. 9009 M-72 E., WILLIAMSBURG,

high-quality Asian fusion cuisine. 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.267.3300 LD • BAR • $$

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips Ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish

Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-can-eat cod. 1120 CARVER ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 BLD • $

Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (includ-

Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. 1544 US-31, TRAVERSE CITY,

231.944.1733 D • BAR • $-$$$

fry. 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700 LD • $

ing European Trappist ales) with your burger, thin crust gourmet pizza, salad or lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. 128 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.8410 LD • BAR •

$-$$

Sparks BBQ Smoking up the real thing—pulled pork and

chicken, brisket, ribs and jerky. Don’t miss the BBQ Sundae. 201 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.633.7800 LD • $-$$

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

D • BAR • $$$

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912 LD • BAR • $$-$$$ Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inven-

tive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits.

300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500 LD • BAR • $-$$

The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local

ingredients with extensive outdoor seating and a casual atmosphere. 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.0900 BLD • BAR

• $-$$$

Thirsty Fish Sports Grille Family-friendly sports bar with

231.938.2773 LD • BAR • $-$$

Reflect Bistro at Cambria Suites Breakfast, dinner and

happy hour 4-7 p.m. daily. 255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000 BD • BAR • $-$$$

Smoke and Porter Public House An American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. Serving microbrews, wine and liquor. 1752 US-31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020 LD • BAR • $-$$$

The Soup Cup, a MicroSouperie Homemade soups, grilled cheese, Belgian fries. 718 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.7687 L • $

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood,

prime rib and more. 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG, 231.534.8700 D • BAR • $-$$$

Thai Café Eat in or take out authentic Thai cuisine in a café

atmosphere. 1219 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5166 LD

• $-$$

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH

seafood, burgers, steaks, pasta and a 600-gallon fish tank. Live music on the patio. 221 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4157

Agave Mexican Grill Authentic, freshly made Mexican cuisine, daily specials and a full bar. 851 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY,

Warehouse Kitchen & Cork Seasonally inspired farm-to-fork

Bergstrom's Burgers Made from scratch burgers and sides, rotating specials each week. 905 S. US-31, 231.252.4048 LD • $

LD • BAR • $-$$

restaurant inside Hotel Indigo. 263 W. GRANDVIEW PKWY., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0500 BLD • BAR • $-$$$

Water's Edge Sweet Tooth A charming bakery that special-

izes in pleasing your sweet tooth. All candies and baked goods are made from scratch. Custom orders welcome! 405 S. UNION

ST., 231.668.9603 BL • $-$$$

White on Rice Sushi and ramen served carryout or dine-in.

231.929.4408 LD • BAR • $-$$

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991 D • BAR • $$ Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies, soups, salads and pasta, with daily specials. 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 BL • $

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8/6/21 11:34 AM

T he Cu l i nary North On the Table DINING IN

SAVING STONE FRUIT by STACEY BRUGEMAN

Preserve some of summer by making this Indian-inspired chutney.

Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

Peach Chutney Makes 2 ½ cups

1 cup water 1 cup sugar 2 ½ lbs. still-firm peaches, peeled (about 6 peaches) 1 small, 1-inch knob of ginger—about the size of two thumbnails—peeled and grated scant ¼ teaspoon cayenne freshly ground seeds from 6 cardamom pods juice from ½ lemon, seeds discarded ¼ teaspoon salt 6 leaves fresh mint, julienned 1. Cut the flesh away from the pits of peeled peaches and chop into a small dice. 2. Add water and sugar to a saucepan and warm over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Add the peaches, ginger and cayenne to the pan and cook over medium heat, stirring from time to time to prevent the bubbling mixture from sticking. 3. Once the excess liquid is gone and the mixture is thickening and sticky—about 30 minutes—reduce to low heat and add the cardamom, lemon juice and salt and stir to combine, cooking an additional 2 minutes while pressing the soft peaches against the side of the pan with a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat and fold in the julienned mint. Allow the mixture to cool and store, refrigerated, for a few weeks. –S.B.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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photo by Tim Hussey

hile seasonal crowds may be starting to slow down, summer isn’t over just yet—and there are peaches to prove it. The last stone fruit to ripen in our area, peaches can be found at roadside stands and farmers markets throughout Northern Michigan right now. There is nothing better than sinking your teeth into a Benzie County peach that’s so ripe the juice drips down your chin. But did you know that there is also a great use for their firmer underripe siblings? That’s right, even peaches that were picked too soon or are otherwise still firm can be put to good use in the kitchen by making chutney. Chutney, the British spelling for the Hindi word chațnī, has been an important condiment in Indian cuisine for generations. Recipes for a variety of chutneys can be found at Indian restaurants throughout Northern Michigan. For example, don’t skip Rosie Chugh’s tamarind chutney next time you grab dinner from NJ’s Grocery (njsgrocery.com) in Lake Leelanau or the mint and mango chutneys from Yavraj Basel’s Aamchi Mumbai (aamchiindiancuisine.com) in Petoskey. Just as mango chutney like that served at Aamchi Mumbai is often made with green mangos, making the beloved condiment with firm peaches is equally rewarding. In this recipe, we marry peaches from the shores of Lake Michigan with flavors from afar—like cardamom, ginger and a noticeable but not overwhelming kick of heat. Don’t relegate this Indian-inspired sauce only to plates of naan and dal alone. While it is the perfect pop of flavor for either, it is equally good draped over a pork chop, used to top a kielbasa or featured on a cheese platter. However you take it, act fast to put some by and make these fleeting weeks of summer last just a wee bit longer.

8/2/21 8:45 PM

The Culinary North NEW Dancing Donkey Burgers Retro-style burgers, French fries (with an optional beer-cheese topping), Northwoods sodas, root beer floats. 2658 CROSSING CIRCLE, 231.947.6721 LD • $

Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. 1333 YELLOW DR., TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453

The Roadhouse Traditional Mexican cuisine with a cool cantina atmosphere. 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US-31), BENZONIA,

The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted wood-fired

Sugar 2 Salt This brunch spot (known as S2S) shakes up the same ol' same ol' with dishes like duck (yes, for breakfast) and everything served up with seasonal produce. 1371 GRAY DR., STE.

Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers, sandwiches. 245 S.

flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. 642

RAILROAD PL., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168 LD • BAR • $-$$

Food Arabia In the Food Court at the Grand Traverse Mall,

BLD • $

300, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.492.4616 B • $-$$

Middle Eastern fare featuring shawarma, hummus, falafel, gyro rice bowls with chicken and lamb, and rose drinks. 3200 W.

TC Italian In the Cherryland Center, TC Italian creates from-

Hunan Authentic Chinese eatery that also offers Japanese

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian ac-

SOUTH AIRPORT RD., 929.346.2210 LD • $

scratch salad dressings, country French bread pizzas and delish lasagna. 1752 S. GARFIELD AVE., 231.631.8745 LD • $$$

cuisine. 1425 S. AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.1388 L (TUESUN) D (FRI-SUN) • $

cent. 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.8989 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

The Kitchen Salads, wraps, tacos. All to go. 1249 WOODMERE

The Underground Cheesecake Co. Housemade soups,

AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.8646 BL & EARLY D • $

Tiki Pineapple Tropical café offering eats and treats for ev-

eryone, including their famous dairy- and fat-free Dole Whip soft-serve, all made with local ingredients. 1218 S. GARFIELD AVE.,

231.421.3868 BL • $

Mulligan’s Pub and Grill Stuffed burgers, extravagant sal-

ads and sammies, ribs and whitefish at this year-round establishment at the Crown Golf Club. 2430 W. CROWN DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2166 LD • BAR • $-$$

sandwiches and a huge array of incredibly delish cheesecakes. 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.492.0382 L • $

West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and

more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. 12719 SOUTH

BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/ LAKE ANN/THOMPSONVILLE

BAR • $

The Bread Lady Small-batch artisan-style breads, cookies,

Sparky's Diner Famous diner with the same great service,

food and environment you love, with more exciting options. 1462 W. SOUTH AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8005 BLD • $$

Taste of India In the Food Court of Grand Traverse Mall, au-

thentic Indian cuisine: curry, paneer, vindaloo, chicken tikka masala, biriyani, aloo gobi, and side dishes like naan and basmati rice. 3200 W. SOUTH AIRPORT RD., 231.220.9057 LD • $$

Willie’s Rear Full breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers. Coun-

ter and table seating. 1315 W. S. AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY,

CASS ST., CADILLAC, 231.468.3526 BLD • $

Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. 304 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5461 BL • $

Cadillac Grill This lodge-style, car-themed eatery’s cuisine runs

from bar food to fine dining. 7839 E. 46 ½ RD., OVERLOOKING THE ELDORADO GOLF COURSE, CADILLAC, 231.779.3663 LD • BAR • $$

Clam Lake Beer Company 40 craft beers on tap, wood-

Coyote Crossing Resort Full bar & restaurant with North-

wiches, local fountain sodas, coffee, local wines and now a new deli and pizza counter. 912 W. FRONT ST., 231.947.9312 LD • $

Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now

231.944.1355 LD •BAR • $-$$

After 26 Casual eatery dedicated to employing adults with developmental disabilities and cognitive impairment. 127 W.

West Side Beverage Offers many varieties of craft beers, sand-

BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC

Sauce at Incredible Mo’s Artisan pizza, pasta, salad in a kidfriendly atmosphere. 1355 SILVER LAKE CROSSINGS BLVD., GRAWN,

CADILLAC

fired pizzas, grilled Angus burgers. 106 MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC,

wiches, smoothies, coffee, tea and baked goods. 260 E. TENTH

at a new location. 225 E. 16TH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1239

BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250 BLD • $-$$

WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922 LD • BAR • $$ •

Oryana 10th Street Café Locally sourced organic sandST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.0191 BLD • $-$$

231.882.9631 LD • BAR • $-$$

specialty muffins and other dessert treats. Also special orders for cakes of all sizes. 19773 LINWOOD AVE., LAKE ANN, 231.275.2253 BLD • $$

The Cherry Hut Homemade cherry pies, jams, jellies, red-and-

white-clad servers and American-style food. 211 N. MICHIGAN AVE.

(US-31), BEULAH, 231.882.4431 LD • $-$$

Cold Creek Inn Perch, planked whitefish, homemade pizza,

burgers. 185 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5531 LD • BAR •

$-$$

Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Wood-

paneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites.

231.775.6150 BLD • BAR • $-$$

woods décor set on beautiful property in the Manistee National Forest. American fare. Live music. Open six days a week year round. 8593 S. 13 RD., CADILLAC, 231.862.3212 LD • BAR • $$

Evergreen Resort Terrace Room restaurant—Stellar water

and woods views plus American fare, Sun. brunch and sandwiches. BLD • BAR • $$ Curly’s Up North Bar & Grill—Casual bar food in a snug knotty-pine setting. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 7880 MACKINAW TRAIL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9947

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an Alpenhaus-style dining room. 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563 LD • BAR • $$

Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks. 1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575 LD • BAR • $

Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club-style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5332 LD • BAR • $$ •

Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid

231.421.5506 BL • $

BLD • BAR • $-$$ 12500 CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN DR., THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000

selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting. 523 N.

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST

Five Shores Brewing Craft brewery with appetizers to share and pressed sandwiches. 163 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH,

Raven Social BBQ plates, burgers, soon-to-be-famous pou-

Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay

view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. 13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079 LD • BAR • $$ • Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks,

burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. 13890 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393 BLD • BAR • $-$$$ •

Jacob's Farm Jacob’s Farm Maze features not only their well-

loved summer and fall activities, but also has become a wedding and event venue with food and bar. 7100 E. TRAVERSE HWY., 231.632.6293 LD • BAR • $

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 100, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960 LD • BAR • $$ Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast

and lunch all day. 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY,

231.252.4648 BL • $$

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under

the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. 717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213 LD • BAR • $-$$

The Silver Swan Global fare and killer desserts. 13692 S. WEST

BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203 LD • $

54 T R A V E R S E

231.383.4400 LD • BAR • $-$$

Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken,

MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810 LD • BAR • $

tine, house-brewed craft beer. 119 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC,

231.444.6396 LD • BAR • $-$$

pizza, soups, salads. 14848 THOMPSON AVE., THOMPSONVILLE, 231.378.2554 LD • BAR • $

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA

Hungry Tummy Restaurant Full breakfasts (chicken-fried steak, eggs and gravy ... ), pizza, broasted chicken and more.

Arcadia Bluffs Golf Club & Restaurant Fresh fish, aged

226 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5103 BLD • BAR • $-$$

L'Chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and

bagels. 274 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5221 BL • $

Lucky Dog Bar and Grille Burgers, smoked wings, brats, sandwiches, craft beer, cocktails. 223 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH,

beef, Mediterranean rack of lamb and an emphasis on local ingredients all served with a spectacular view of Lake Michigan.

14710 NORTHWOOD HWY., ARCADIA, 231.889.3001 BLD • $-$$$

Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399 BLD • BAR • $-$$

231.383.4499 LD • BAR • $-$$

Blue Fish Kitchen + Bar New American cuisine, tradi-

The Manitou Whitefish, perch, duck with cherry sauce, ribs,

231.887.4188 LD • BAR $-$$$

NORTH SCENIC HWY., HONOR, 231.882.4761 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. 1100 28TH ST., MANISTEE, 231.723.8000 LD

steaks, seafood. Nine miles north of Frankfort on M-22. 4349

Papa J’s Pizzeria & Diner Sparkling diner serving home-

made dishes and fine pizza pie. Weekend buffets and everyday pizza lunch buffet. 10583 MAIN ST., HONOR, 231.325.7070 BLD • $

Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere.

Steaks, Italian, Mexican. 10921 MAIN ST., HONOR, 231.227.1200

tional fare, vegetarian and vegan. 312 RIVER ST., MANISTEE.

• BAR • $-$$

The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843 D • $-$$ •

BLD • BAR • $-$$

/ SEPTEMBER 2021

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8/2/21 8:45 PM

The Culinary North

Crystal Downs Beach Road Conundrum Cafe Light lunch fare, Hawaiian shave ice and

alcohol available to purchase. 603 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA,

231.352.8150 BL • $-$$

Crescent Bakery Artisanal breads, pies, cheesecakes, and handdecorated cookies. 404 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4611 BL • $ Dinghy’s Local favorite for 25 years with house-smoked meats

including famous ribs, half-pound burger, Big BLT, Mexican and kids menus. Award-winning Friday fish fry. 415 MAIN ST., FRANK-

FORT, 231.352.4702 LD • BAR • $$

The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and wood-fired piz-

zas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients. 318 RIVER ST,

mls 1846259 250 Beach Road •

MANISTEE, 231.887.4121 LD• BAR • $-$$

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114

300 ft of Lake Mic higan Be achfront.

BLD • $–$$ •

The Glenwood Casual dining, almond-battered shrimp and bleu cheese filet mignon, homemade desserts. Open for dinner at 5 p.m. 4604 MAIN ST., ONEKAMA, 231.889.3734 D • BAR

• $–$$$ •

Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn. 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090 BLD • $-$$$

L’Chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and

310 Beach Road • mls 1888140

bagels. 318 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 BL • $-$$

ke Michigan. home on La nd ou ar r Yea

Lighthouse Café Robust breakfasts, soups, salads, sandwich-

es, burgers, steak, perch, liver and onions. 735 FRANKFORT AVE.,

ELBERTA, 231.352.5273 BLD • $–$$

Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. 515 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9136 LD • BAR $-$$

North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the draw-

Suzy Voltz

(231) 651-9711 suzy.voltz@gmail.com

RealEstateOne.com

57 N. Michigan Ave, Beulah 231-882-4449

bridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with meats smoked daily and excellent craft beers on tap. 86 WASHINGTON ST., MANISTEE, 231.299.1020 LD • BAR $-$$ •

Papano’s Pizza Traditional pizza pie. 334 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.6700 D • $–$$

Rock's Landing Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with

global influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. 1577 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 D • BAR $$ •

Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair

with inventive, smart bistro fare. 303 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118 LD • BAR • $-$$

Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Tavo and Tarrah Hernandez

turned their food truck into a restaurant dream-come-true with ultra-fresh tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas, aguas frescas and tamarind mules. 344 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.887.4441 LD

THE BEST SIPS AND SNACKS IN THE NORTH DELIVERED TO YOUR INBOX MONTHLY

• BAR • $-$$

Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib, pasta, whitefish, craft beer, regional wines, gourmet pizza, specialty salads. 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751 LD • BAR • $-$$

T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for paninis, Mexican cuisine and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. 399 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174 LD • BAR • $ Villa Marine Friday fish special. Saturday prime rib. American

cooking. 228 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.5450 LD • $-$$

Yellow Dog Café Fabulous coffee, sandwiches, baked goods. 4850 MAIN ST., ONEKAMA, 231.508.5008 LD • $

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS! MyNorth.com > Food & Drink > Restaurants

MYNORTH.COM/NEWSLETTER

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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8/6/21 11:35 AM

Traverse + LONG LAKE ISLAND HOPPING

COCKTAIL: MINER’S MULE

ROCK HUNTING BEACHES

p.50

p.40

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Lavender Road Trip

Beaver Island Glamping

Firefighters Grill

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

RED HOT BEST This year's winners for outdoor dining, trails, wineries & more p.28

SPECIAL INSERT

Northern Home & Cottage

06.21

SPEND SOME TIME UP NORTH... WITHOUT USING VACATION DAYS. Subscribe yourself or someone you love for a full year of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine for $24.95 and receive 6 issues of Northern Home & Cottage, the Vacation Guide and 10 other special sections. MyNorth.com/Subscribe

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8/6/21 11:37 AM

T he Cu l i nary North Last Call

SPICE IS NICE by STACEY BRUGEMAN

This spicy-sweet cocktail is the best way to unwind after a trip to the cider mill.

here’s nothing quite like that first weekend of fall. The weather is still warm from the heat of summer. The leaves haven’t begun to turn in earnest yet, but there’s a whiff of autumn in the air. You pile everyone in the car and hit your favorite local cider mill. Sounds idyllic right? Flash forward a few hours. The kids have eaten one too many pumpkin donuts, there are sticky remnants of those caramel apples all over the back seat and they’ve already downed half of the gallon of cider that you brought home. Don’t let them finish what’s left. Instead, mix the cider that remains with your favorite Northern Michigan whiskey and a slightly spicy chile liqueur known as Ancho Reyes. When they (finally) drift off to sleep, this one’s for you, mom and dad. You’ve earned it. Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

photo by Dave Weidner / styling by Sarah Peschel

Spicy Whiskey Cider Collins

Serves 1 4 ounces fresh apple cider 1 ½ ounces whiskey 1 ounce Ancho Reyes, a chile liqueur ½ ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 ounces club soda 2 dashes of lemon bitters (optional) apple wheel Add ice to a tall Collins glass. Measure cider, whiskey, Ancho Reyes and lemon juice into the glass and stir to combine. Top with soda and bitters. Garnish with an apple wheel. Just like the kids, serve it with a straw, giving it one last whiz in the glass. –S.B.

F RO M

O U R

C E L L A R

Not flexing your mixology muscles tonight? Here’s what area beverage professionals are drinking right now. While Zingerman’s Creamery may be known for its cheese and gelato, the 20-year-old outfit also sells Michigan wines, like Cedar’s Bel Lago 2018 Pinot Noir. Brad Hedeman, who travels the world researching which imported products the Ann Arbor institution carries, loves that this bottling “has the terroir of Northern Michigan.” “The fresh water lakes and bays make this a more delicate pinot,” he says. The globe-trotting “food finder” recommends grabbing a local baguette, a tub of Zingerman’s pimento spread and sipping this peppery pinot until it’s time to light the grill. bellago.com, $25 per bottle

Every fall, the nation’s foremost beer experts gather to judge one of the highest honors in brewing—medals from the Great American Beer Festival. While we wait with bated breath to find out who the 2021 winners are, we’ll be sipping one of 2020’s silver medalists, the Stormcloud 228 Tripel. This time last year, the Frankfort-brewed sud beat out more than 100 other entrants in the BelgianStyle Abbey Ale category. This golden, lightbodied beer has layers of light spice and stone-fruit aromas—a classic tripel brewed right here at home. –S.B. stormcloudbrewing.com, $23 for a growler fill

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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8/2/21 8:45 PM

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8/6/21 1:59 PM

Outdoors

BIKING CADILLAC by KANDACE CHAPPLE

Cycle, hike or ski this picturesque path, then enjoy a fire at the new pavilion.

he first thing you notice when you get to the Cadillac Pathway trailhead— a packed dirt trail on the outskirts of Cadillac—is the striking new pavilion and its bright red steel roof. Once you park, you notice something else just as inviting: the towering stone fireplace under the pavilion with a stack of firewood at the ready. The new pavilion is a welcome and hearty addition to Cadillac’s well-loved bike-hike-and-ski trail. It opened in September 2020 after much planning and fund-raising, and it offers a beautiful and wide warm-up and meet-up spot for outdoor lovers, especially mountain bikers. But behind it, there’s someone still casually stealing the show: Mother Nature.

photo by Kandace Chapple

THE TRAILS

The 11.3-mile non-motorized Cadillac Pathway trail system features six different loops ranging from easy to difficult, all accessed from the new trailhead, complete with parking area and pavilion. The one-, two- and four-mile loops near the pavilion are relatively flat and popular choices. Previously, the pathway’s trails were accessed by parking at the local school, but the new trailhead and parking area give riders a dedicated place to gather. The trails starting from the pavilion allow access to the northern segments of the pathway, which are more moderate and great for beginners and families. Going farther into the heart of the pathway takes you onto harder trails, so be ready for more of a challenge. The trails are marked with signage throughout, although be aware the offshoots of unmarked single track so you don’t take a wrong turn. In the summer, biking and hiking are permitted on the trail, and in the winter, the trail is groomed for cross-country skiing. If there’s at least 6 inches of the white stuff (and there usually is!), there is an additional trail rolled at the Pathway—the Winter Sports Trail for fat tire bikes and snowshoers. These are all two-way trails, so an out-andback is a great option if you are new to the loops. The day my teenage son and I tackled the Pathway, it was late October and the tail-end of fall. The leaves had finished their first show and were on to their next—gathering in an endless swath of orange and browns on the ground above the crunch of fallen red pine needles.

We biked the full outer loop and the trail had its moments (as did we). It was smooth and welcoming one minute, and rowdy and rough the next. The hard-pack trail had wicked rocky downhills in a few spots, as well as gorgeous riding sailing through tall pines and maples. (And don’t be ashamed if you find yourself walking your bike up a few of the climbs either, ahem.) Also, be sure to watch for hikers sharing the trail and the occasional happy golden retriever. THE RACE

This trail hosts the Bear Claw Epic Mountain Bike Race every September (this year’s race is slated for Sept. 25). If you’re looking for a destination race, this might be the one. The race is fairly new and maintains that feel-good, smalltown charm. There are several options, though, so the hot rods can go out hard, leaving room for beginners or those who just want to accomplish a new race at a fun pace. Kids are welcome, too! All proceeds from the race go toward funding the construction of 11 miles of new single-track on the Cadillac Pathway. bearclawepic.com IF YOU GO

To access the Cadillac Pathway trailhead (3736 S. Seeley Rd., Cadillac), head to the intersection of Seeley and Boon roads, just five miles northeast of downtown Cadillac. Head east on Boon Road off Mitchell Street. Go 3.5 miles until the road hits a T, turn left and the lot is on your right. You can’t miss it—the new, bright red roof beckons! For a detailed map of the pathway, check out cadillacmichigan.com/ project/cadillac-pathway. A recreation passport is required to access the trailhead and can be purchased at Mitchell State Park or online at michigan.gov. Visit cadillacpathway.org for more details, and jump on their Facebook page for current pics and conditions. Kandace Chapple is a freelance writer and owner of Michigan Girl, an event planning business. She can be reached at kandacechapple.com. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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8/2/21 8:47 PM

Love of the Land

Elise M. Kummer Nature Preserve

LAND OF RESILIENCE by ALLISON JARRELL

lifelong steward of Michigan’s natural areas, Walter Kummer was inspired during the pandemic to find and protect a large swath of land in need of preservation. When he came across a 582-acre property near DeTour in the eastern U.P., he knew conservation of the land would be critical with its close proximity to the St. Mary’s River and Lake Huron. “The cooler temperatures of the northern Great Lakes make the land more resilient to climate change, allowing certain species to thrive in that microclimate,” he says. “Those are the areas that are going to be our ‘ark’ for saving many of our species.” Walter reached out to the Little Traverse Conservancy (LTC) with his idea, and the Elise M. Kummer Nature Preserve was established, now owned and managed by LTC. The preserve is named after Walter's mother, whom he 60

credits for instilling a love of the outdoors through family camping trips and time spent at beaches and state parks. This vast preserve, which is now open to the public, features several habitat types. The middle and southern portions are dominated by northern white cedar, with an open bog in the center, and the northern part of the preserve transitions to higher and drier mixed hardwood-conifer forest. Bear Lake is located in the northwest corner, and the northeast corner includes frontage on Brown Lake. Caribou Creek runs through the property. The preserve also includes more than 500 feet along Scenic Byway M-134 and is bisected by South Caribou Lake. To access the preserve from DeTour, take E. South Caribou Lake Road west for 4.2 miles—there will be a twotrack on the left that you can follow for about a quarter mile. A power line access provides a trail to explore the area. For more information, including a drone video, visit landtrust.org.

photo courtesy of Little Traverse Conservancy

New U.P. nature preserve established to protect Great Lakes wildlife.

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8/2/21 8:48 PM

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