Travese, Northern Michigan's Magazine October 2018 by MyNorth

I N S I D E // F O L L O W I N G PA G E 6 4

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE TOUR TRAVERSE CITY AREA HOME TOUR

Peak Color! 10 VIEWS TO TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY

GAME DAY RECIPE

The Best-Ever Pumpkin Chili

REDS FOR YOUR GLASS

FISH ON!

In Search of the Mythical Muskies of the UP

2Lads, Mari Vineyards + More

SERIOUSLY FUN STORYTELLING

From TC's Fulfillament

MOUNTAIN BIKE CULTURE Colorful Terrain + Bold Advice TRUE STORY I Was a Ghost-Tour Guide on Mackinac Island

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Contents

Discover more about Up North, people, places, food and events.

october | features

36 60

36 | 10 BEST COLOR TOUR VIEWS Head on a gorgeous, pinch-me-I’m-dreaming tour across the forest and waters (and waterfalls!) of our special place on earth.

44 | MUSKIE CAMP CALLING Dave Karczynski takes you inside a long camp tradition on an unforgettable riverine adventure in the U.P.

50 | HERE’S THE INSIDE STORY Behind the scenes with the Traverse City storytelling show that melds work- and life-purpose.

54 | THRILL RIDE As fall colors blaze, head to the Grand Traverse Commons to spin the mountain bike trails in the hilly forest.

60 | TALE OF 2LADS Tim Tebeau profiles the wine “makers and shakers” of this top-flight Northern Michigan winery.

plus | NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE – COME TOUR WITH US! Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’18

contents | departments

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TOSKI TOSKI SANDS TOSKI SANDS SANDS MM EE AA T TM M AA RR KK EE T T& &W W I NI N E ES S HH OO PP M E AT M A R K E T & W I N E S H O P

EXETXEN T SNIV EE SESLEECT SIV XTE LEECIO N NEN TIO OSFIV S E QU T E O C FE T QA TP IT IOIN ULL OP YW ALIT N EO O Y QU W O ,EFA, T IN IT AA TALT Y 151%5 O WFINE, LALLP L % F A AT 15% OF. F. LL OFF.

TOSKI TOSKI SANDS SANDS M E AT M A R K E T & W I N E S H O P M E AT M A R K E T & W I N E S H O P

EXTEN SIVE SELEECXTTEN IVE SE IONSO LECTIO Q N U OP A OFF TTO L IT Y WIN QUALIT WINEE,, ALPL AT 1Y5% A T 15% O OFF. ALL FF.

9 | EDITOR’S NOTE 15 | UP NORTH Happy news from Suttons Bay, Sleeping Bear Dunes and Elk Rapids.

19 | THIS IS MYNORTH

MyNorth.com

Make a pot of this pumpkin chili and make some friends.

21 | OCTOBER EVENTS

79 | OUTDOORS

Fall fun, coming your way.

33 | UP IN MICHIGAN What it’s like to be a ghost-tour guide on Mackinac Island.

Red wines to try now.

Trail run in the fall splendor.

80 | LOVE OF THE LAND See the champion trees at Lake Bluff Bird Sanctuary.

ON THE COVER Grand Portal Point, Pictured Rocks. PHOTO BY HEATHER HIGHAM

WW WW W.W. TO SK ND SM AR CO MM TO S IKSA I SA ND SM AK R ET. K ET. CO W -W. TO SETO K I SASNKDESYM |A R K ET. C O M 2 229249W4M M1 -1 91 1,9 P , P ETO S K E Y |2 3213- 13-43 74-71 -51751 7 1 2 2 9 4 M - 1 1 9 , P ETO S K E Y | 2 3 1 - 3 4 7 - 1 5 7 1

WW WW. W.TO TOS S K I SA N D S M A R K W K ET. ET.C CO OM M M--111199,, P P ETO ETO S SK KE 22229944 M EY Y || 22 3311--334477--11557711

69 | LOCAL FOODIE

77 | DRINKS

Wine taste like a pro (for real).

MIIEERR M MEE A AT S & F R E S H F I SS H PPRREEM H//SSEEAAFFO OO ODD WIIN NEE,, SSPP EE C I A LT Y B E E R & W & LLIIQ QU UO ORR CIIA ALT LT YY G R O C E R I E S & PP R SSPPEEC RO OD DU UCCEE MPPO OR RTT EE D D & DOMESTIC C IIM CH HEEEESSEE DEELL II & & P R E PA R E D F O D OO OD DSS

Color tour hikes and eat spots.

Hang out with us online, on social and at MyNorthTickets.

31 | TRAVEL

P RPERM I EIRE RM M E AETAST S& &F RFERSEHS HF IFSIHS /HS/ESAEFAOF O EM OD OD P RW EM E R M E A T S &Y FBREEES R H F I S H / S EOARF O O D I NII E W N,ES, PSEPCE ICAILT A LT Y B E E R& &L ILQI U QUOR WCI INAELT , SYP E CRIOACLT Y IB E E&R P&R O L IDQUUCOER S PSE G E R E S P E C I A LT Y G R O C E R I E S & P R O D U C E P EP C I ATLT Y G R O CMEERSI T E S & P REOED UCE ISM I MO PR O RETD E D& &D O D O M E SITCI CC H C H ESEES E I MDP EOLRI T& E D & D ORM E S FT O IC C HEESE D E L I &P RPERPA E PAERD ED FO OD O SD S D E L I & P R E PA R E D F O O D S

65 | DINING

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WHERE APPLES LOVE TO GROW Taste the flavor of fall with every crunch of a Michigan Apple.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Prism Publications Inc., 125 Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $27.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2018, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’18

00493 SHADOW TRAILS WALLOON LAKE 1,399,000 · 3 Bed · 3 Bath · 2,346 Sq. Feet · 105 Feet Waterfront

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editor’s note

dream

BELIEVERS TEXT BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

ere is our mission statement, and while we didn’t have one in the crazy first decade of the company, the sentiment could be found on the day we first set up our sawhorse desks: “We are committed to celebrating and protecting Northern Michigan’s environment, recreational opportunities, cultural experiences, intact small towns and enduring entrepreneurial spirit.” I chose paper and ink as our canvas. It was a reflection of my passion for the medium and my belief that only a magazine of the best quality could capture the beauty and the life of this place. In this issue, we meet two wonderful young women who have chosen a different medium for storytelling, inviting entrepreneurs on stage to share with an audience the reason their chosen work fulfills not only their dream but also gives back to the region at the same time. Chelsea Bay Dennis, of The Conscious Entrepreneur, and Shea Petaja, story coach, two women who grew up in Northern Michigan, discovered they shared a passion for helping others find meaning in work, as well as living life with intention. Out of that came Fulfillament, a monthly get-together where a handful of entrepreneurs tell their story to an audience, who in the end grants one of the storytellers $500. The stories are designed to be both a celebration of the creative entrepreneurial spirit and recognition that each person taking the stage is pursuing that dream in a remarkable place. I am fond of saying that Northern Michigan has long been a region made up of dreamers, people seeking a life of balance and willing to take the risks involved in starting or working for new enterprises. I’ve loved telling the stories of some of our earliest fruit farmers who, traveling by ship and against all odds, and often with peril, threw their lot in with our land. In the years before I ever started the magazine, in Traverse City alone, it was entrepreneurs who stood to benefit from waterfront development, yet fought to preserve what became the Open Space. And it was a new set of individuals who worked to stop a four-story mall from being built on what has become the home of the downtown farm market, celebrating local food and the harvest. There was clearly economic gain of a certain kind to be had, but we have long been a region that

values the role the land and water play even in our economy, and work to take the time to examine just what “gain” really is. Finding this balance has long been at the root of this place. Fulfillament offers an exploration of those very things through those who take the stage. Their next gathering is on October 11 at The Warehouse in Traverse City. I was delighted when I saw the lineup as we’ve had the honor of capturing on paper each of the entrepreneurs who now will be telling their own story on stage. It is pure joy to see the dialogue finding new mediums with fresh voices. I remember the artwork for Light of Day Organics: tins of tea filled with actual whole berries, mint leaves and bars of cinnamon mixed with Angela’s passion for the power of an organic cup of tea. When she takes the stage, I suspect the crowd will be able to smell the earth and the mint as she speaks. Different mediums; shared passion. Who wouldn’t have wanted to write about Carter and Todd Oosterhouse, returning to their roots and opening Bonobo Winery? Not only have we been able to cover their wine-making, but also much of their philanthropic work done in the region. I suspect Todd’s voice will be as a native son honoring the land and, I suspect, of drinking great wine all the while. Jeff Smith captured Jim Olson’s unwavering commitment to water in the magazine in 2011 when Jim announced the formation of Flow for Water, an outgrowth of Jim’s lifetime of work on the environment. That evening at the State Theater, Olson laid out the mission for Flow for Water that includes state and federal laws passed that clearly state all Great Lakes waters (groundwater and surface water) should be considered a commons and protected through public trust. Jeff cites the rousing applause at just the introduction of Jim’s name that night and called him one of the audience’s “water heroes.” An enduring memory of that issue was the photo of Jim standing on a swim raft with nothing but water around him. On October 11, Liz Kirkwood will take the stage at Fulfillament, and share her story as the executive director of this critical organization and her 18 years as a lawyer working passionately on behalf of the environment. 4 Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’18

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editor’s note

Also taking the stage will be Matt Myers, who founded M22 with his brother, Keegan. Native sons as well, these two first appeared on our cover one July long ago when we wrote about them as kiteboarders and instructors. As legend has it, a friend along for the day of the shoot had made a T-shirt using the road sign for M-22. While our readers loved the article, what many of them wanted to know was where could they get that shirt. I called Matt to tell him so and the rest is M22 history. Matt and Keegan represent so much of what Fulfillament and my staff of so many years seeks to capture: They are incredible entrepreneurs who regularly give back to efforts designed to preserve and protect this place. They have faced challenges together, personal and professional, but never compromised their belief in life with intention and a commitment to the essence of place. I can only imagine Matt’s sincerity, gratitude and sense of purpose that will surely come through when he takes the stage. And so it goes on. This issue is awe-inspiring in its photography, from the spectacular beauty around us in fall landscapes, the magic of a river, a lone fisherman at night and the swoop of a trail located in the heart of our region’s largest city. There are dreams woven into the Torch Lake Café and Sam’s Graces, and tips on honoring the integrity that goes with the craft of making wine, beer and spirits. And stitched within and throughout are the people who have made the commitment to approaching work with passion, and this place with a sense of awe and stewardship. Sometimes people ask me how we come up with ideas or keep our mission and execution fresh after 38 years. I usually share tales of how many stories of we have to leave on the table after each meeting. To you I say simply, turn the page.

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth. debwf@traversemagazine.com.

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OCT ’18

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Magnificent Log Home Near Marquette This home, once featured on the cover of Log Home Living magazine, gives you both 500 feet of Lake Superior and 500 feet of Saux Head Lake. It is a setting that changes with your mood: majestic and grand, or peaceful and introspective. The home itself has 5 bedrooms and 4 fireplaces, and is an easy 14 mile drive to Marquette. As part of the Saux Head Point Association, this property also comes with a jointly-owned 640-acre forestland and mile of undeveloped Lake Superior beach. $1,395,000

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Up North

A NORTHERN NEIGHBOR

The Duck Side Of Art

DAVE WEIDNER

Since 1976, the Michigan State Duck Stamp Program has generated millions of dollars for wetland and waterfowl conservation. Artwork for the stamp is selected every year in a national competition. This year, Suttons Bay artist Chris Smith took first place. This is the fourth time since 2005 that Smith’s artwork has been chosen for the official stamp. But this year’s win was especially sweet, as it was the first time a hunting dog appeared on the winning entry. In addition to the regularly issued stamp, Smith’s work was also made into a special governor’s edition with 100 prints signed by Smith and Michigan Governor Rick Snyder. Here, Smith—who is also an author and freelance illustrator of over 24 hunting and fishing books—talks about his career, the role hunting plays in conservation and in his art, and the “World Series” of wildlife art contests. 4

Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT ’18 Traverse,

upnorth | what's up Continued from page 15.

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Growing up, you actually wanted to be a baseball player. Then you were injured and really dove into art. Can you tell us about that? I used to eat-breathe-sleep baseball. In high school downstate, I played shortstop and was a good enough hitter that some local colleges were scouting me during my junior year. Then I took a line drive to my left eye, blowing out my orbit. A faulty surgery took away nearly all the vision. But when I came out of surgery, my two questions for the doctor were if I could still draw and shoot a shotgun again. Baseball was a distant third. Talk about a perspective change. Your winning artwork is a symbolic recognition of the hunter AND his dog’s role in waterfowl conservation. Why do you think it took 39 years for all these elements to come together on the annual stamp? Honestly, I was shocked to find out myself. I knew it hadn't been done much, but ever? One reason might be that many wildlife artists aren't out there hunting all the time— or aren't training their own dogs—so a dog in the scene isn't an obvious choice as it would be to, say, go to the park and photograph ducks to paint, which happens often. Other reasons might be art related: painting dogs and people realistically is tough enough; painting them realistically and small can send anyone to the drooling academy. You can ruin a perfectly good duck painting by trying to add to it, so most artists often remove that risk from the equation. I went out on a limb and it paid off, but it could easily have gone the other way. This might seem odd to some people, but you’re a pretty avid duck hunter. Why is hunting so important to your art? I could talk all day about how hunters are primary caretakers of wildlife, especially waterfowl. Without our support—taxes on licenses and ammunition, and volunteer work with organizations like Delta Waterfowl and Ducks Unlimited—waterfowl populations wouldn't be anything like they are today. But I also don't feel my art would be as authentic if I didn't hunt and fish. I know what everything I paint is supposed to look like because I've been out there pursuing and observing those animals my entire life. A lot of the folks who commission my art are hunters who view art critically, and I think they appreciate that I'm out there banging my frozen hands on a cold duck boat each morning or training hunting dogs in the spring. I'm a sportsman like they are, and it's cool when they see that, too. For more information, on Chris Smith Wildlife and Sporting Dog Art, check out chrissmithart.com. —Bob Butz

what's up | upnorth

Hope (and Funds) for Our Parks

SWEET STARTUP

TINY TRAVELING BOUTIQUE Tawny Elizabeth Cox’s Tiny Traveling Boutique in Elk Rapids encompasses everything that comes to mind when you meet her: inviting, fun, stylish, Michigan-made. With over a decade of retail knowledge and a background in fashion marketing, Tawny (pictured above) wanted to create her own shop to align her business with her values—in something different from the traditional brick and mortar. Family close by to offer a strong support system and a true love of the natural surroundings of Elk Rapids made it an easy choice for her to set up shop, and she began remodeling a former camper. When curating pieces for the boutique, Tawny supports other small business owners throughout the U.S. and Canada—primarily, women. She has received a resounding response from the Elk Rapids community; find her parked on Ames Street just north of downtown Elk Rapids (Thursday through Saturday 11a.m. to 5 p.m.) or check out her offerings on Instagram and Facebook @tinytravelingboutique. —Meaghin Rose

MEAGHIN ROSE

KELLY REWA

A bipartisan group of U.S. senators has introduced a bill to bring some relief to America’s national parks. The Restore Our Parks Act would be salve for the estimated $12 billion backlog of overdue maintenance and repairs now estimated to exist across the country’s park system. If the money comes through, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore Superintendent Scott Tucker told us that could mean a chance to chip away at the $18 million of “deferred maintenance” projects he has on his list. Either way, though, Tucker says his team already has a five-year plan to tackle some of the park’s biggest needs, including redoing the Good Harbor parking lot, rehabbing the Empire Bluffs trail and updating the aging septic system at the Dune Climb. And with any luck, they’ll eventually get to a few things on their wishlist—like improving accessibility for those with disabilities and creating mobile apps to enhance visitors’ experiences. —Lou Blouin

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT ’18

A custom-fit investment plan A investment plan is custom-fit just a conversation away is just a conversation away

Done right, a financial advisor works with you to develop an investment plan designed to Done right, a financial advisor works you you to develop an investment planplan, designed to help you meet your unique goals. We with can help create your personalized and we’ll help you youronunique goals. Weto can help youyou create your personalized plan, and review it meet with you a regular basis help keep on track. Working together is allwe’ll review it with you on a regular basis to help keep you on track. Working together is all about you. about you. Call for a complimentary portfolio consultation. Call for a complimentary portfolio consultation. Watts Financial Consulting Group of Wells Fargo Advisors Watts Financial Consulting Group of Wells Fargo Advisors Benjamin Watts Financial Advisor Benjamin Watts 10850 E Traverse Financial Advisor Hwy Ste 5575 TraverseE Traverse City, MI 49684 10850 Hwy Ste 5575 Direct: 231-946-1630 Traverse City, MI 49684 Ben.Watts@wellsfargoadvisors.com Direct: 231-946-1630 wellsfargoadvisors.com Ben.Watts@wellsfargoadvisors.com wellsfargoadvisors.com

Jeffrey Watts Managing Director – Investment Officer Jeffrey Watts 10850 E Traverse Ste 5575 Officer Managing DirectorHwy – Investment Traverse City, MI 49684 10850 E Traverse Hwy Ste 5575 (231) 946-1630 Traverse City, MI 49684 jeffrey.watts@wellsfargoadvisors.com (231) 946-1630 wellsfargoadvisors.com jeffrey.watts@wellsfargoadvisors.com wellsfargoadvisors.com

Wells Fargo Advisors isand a trade name usedProducts: by Wells FargouClearing Services, LLC, Member a registered broker-dealer non-bank u NOSIPC, u MAYand Investment Insurance NOT FDIC Insured Bank Guarantee Lose Value affiliate of Wells Fargo & Company. © 2016 Wells Fargo Clearing Services, LLC. All rights reserved. Wells Fargo Advisors is a trade name used by Wells Fargo Clearing Services, LLC, Member SIPC, a registered broker-dealer and non-bank affiliate of Wells Fargo & Company. © 2016 Wells Fargo Clearing Services, LLC. All rights reserved.

A2062A2062

Investment and Insurance Products: u NOT FDIC Insured u NO Bank Guarantee u MAY Lose Value

0218-04880 0218-04880

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Hang out with us beyond the pages of Traverse Magazine.

TAKE A VIDEO VACATION Sit back, relax, and enjoy these beautiful aerial views of Michigan’s Tunnel of Trees during peak fall color.

TAYLOR BROWN

MyNorth.com/TunnelTreesAir

SHARE YOUR #MYNORTH ADVENTURES Follow us @MyNorthMedia and tag your October pics with #MyNorth. You could end up in the pages of Traverse Magazine.

OCTOBER EVENT HIGHLIGHT OCTOBER 12–13 DRUMMOND ISLAND FALL ON THE ISLAND FESTIVAL Drummond Island Township Hall

CELEBRATE TRAVERSE MAGAZINE IN-PERSON IN NORTHERN MICHIGAN

@ PALKO1205

Join our editorial staff, special guests and your fellow readers at Suttons Bay Ciders for a free celebration of our October 2018 Traverse Magazine. Enjoy casual, fun networking, drink specials and spectacular views of the Leelanau Peninsula. Editor Emily Tyra and Founder Deborah Wyatt Fellows will raise a glass and share behind-the-scene stories of the Fall Color Tour issue. Wednesday, September 26, from 5 to 7 p.m. RSVP: MyNorth.com/HappyHour

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’18

Marty Rhein [CKD + CBD] SENIOR INTERIOR DESIGNER

bacdesigntc.com

There is so much we can do. “This is the golden age of oncology. With some of the new medications, we’re making a lot of progress. It’s exciting. We can help almost everyone in some way.” – Zachary Hector-Word, MD | Medical Oncologist

Our regional team of cancer experts work together to detect, diagnose and fight cancer. No matter where you live in northern Michigan, you have access to Munson Healthcare’s system of coordinated cancer care. Together, we’ll make a plan. Together, we’ll get through this.

MyNorth.com

calendar | events

TIX Look for this symbol in our Events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

October EDITED BY LIBBY STALLMAN

Music | Pop/Soul singer, songwriter and Broadway chanteuse Morgan James returns with her second album, Reckless Abandon. City Opera House, Traverse City. cityoperahouse.org

SAT

And More | Celebrate Harvest Day at Chateau Chantal with a Wine Aroma Challenge, Mini Slurpin’ Seminar and Grape Stompin’on the west lawn, weather permitting. chateauchantal.com

MON

Festivals | Drummond Island

6 FRI

12 SAT

13 TAYLOR BROWN

SUN

FRI

Fall on the Island Festival offers incredible food, tasty craft beer, a talented line-up of musicians, the Artisan Fair, the 5K/10K or tee off in the golf tournament. MyNorthTickets.com

And More | Northern Home & Cottage’s second home tour of the season, featuring gorgeous homes in the Traverse City area, 10am - 5pm. Tickets available at 800.836.0717 or MyNorthTickets.com.

14 15 FRI

SAT

Festivals | Experience the magic of autumn in Northern Michigan at the 40th Annual Charlevoix Apple Festival. October 12-14. visitcharlevoix.com

SUN

And More | Boyne Appétit! Enjoy two-for-one pricing, or specially priced multi-course meals during the Boyne City Restaurant Week, October 15–20. boynechamber.com

Music | The Great Lakes Chamber Orchestra's Young People's Concert introduces each major family of instruments in the orchestra, with melodies that bounce from one instrument to another! Petoskey Middle School. MyNorthTickets.com

THU

Theater | A multimedia play that combines videotaped interviews with Holocaust survivors and live actors: And Then They Came for Me, Remembering the World of Anne Frank. West Shore Community College, Scottville. MyNorthTickets.com

And More | The Annual Mackinac Island Women’s Wellness & a Wee Bit O’ Wine Weekend features art shows, captivating seminars, yoga, spa days, fabulous shopping and so much more! Mission Point Resort. MyNorthTickets.com Theater | Shakespeare's

As You Like It entertains with a cast of comedic characters who inhabit the forest for a hilarious romp. Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts, Manistee. MyNorthTickets.com

FRI

Theater| Durang X Durang

is a double bill of short farcical plays with outrageous comedy and biting satire. OTP StudioTheatre @ the Depot. MyNorthTickets.com

WED

HAPPY HALLOWEEN

FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’18

(231) 922-2050 downtowntc.com

#LETSTAKEAWALK in Downtown Traverse City

OVER 100 Michigan Makers

122 Cass St, Downtown TC next to Omelette Shoppe

1-800-405-6909

MySecretStash.com

Alden | Elk Rapids | Traverse City | Suttons Bay

(231) 929-0340

Sara Hardy Downtown Farmers Market Wednesdays & Saturdays

Downtown Halloween Walk October 27

Shop Your Community Day November 10

130 HALL STREET TRAVERSE CITY 231-252-4132

MyNorth.com

Light Parade, Tree Lighting & Santa’s Arrival November 17

224 E. Front Street, Traverse City • 231.929.3940

DOWNTOWN GIFT CERTIFICATES MAKE THE PERFECT GIFT! CONVENIENT PARKING IN THE LARRY C. HARDY & OLD TOWN PARKING DECKS

FEATURED EVENTS Look for this symbol in our Events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

TIX

Landmark Lodging & Waterfront Dining 10/6 EMPIRE HOPS & HARVEST FESTIVAL

Bay View inn, Bay View Victorian country inn on the shores of Little Traverse Bay. 800-258-1886

Empire

10/6 BARAGA BEER FEST Waterfront Park

10/12 THE SHORELINE MUSIC SOCIETY

Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts

Crooked riVer lodge, alanson Family-friendly lodge, overlooking the picturesque Crooked River. Indoor pool. 866-548-0700

10/12-13 DRUMMOND ISLAND FALL ON THE ISLAND FESTIVAL

Drummond Island Township Hall

10/19-20 MACKINAC ISLAND WOMEN'S WELLNESS & A WEE BIT O' WINE WEEKEND

Perry Hotel, Petoskey Just off the bay in Petoskey’s historic downtown Gaslight District. 800-737-1899

Mission Point Resort

Fall Packages Available For more information visit MyNorthTickets.com.

staffords.Com Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’18

Crystal Lake

Mid Century Modern Architecture

This 4 bedroom, 3.5 bath home is tucked at the end of a private road and offers loads of natural light and an expansive sunset view of Lake Leelanau. There is plenty of room to entertain in the large kitchen that spills out to the waterside wrap around deck. Enjoy a large main ﬂoor master suite, separate guest house, two car garage and a dock for your favorite water toys just steps from your door! Just minutes to Traverse City and Suttons Bay. 7200 Shugart Shores, Traverse City MLS 1846823 $895,000

Suzy Voltz

(231) 651-9711 suzy.voltz@gmail.com

4 ive • mls 184663 Shorewood Dr

Get lost this fall in beautiful Northern Michigan BEAUTIFUL “SMART” HOME IN INCOCHEE Just 5 minutes from downtown TC, this 5 bedroom 3 bath home offers high quality finishes throughout. Main floor living includes a spacious master suite opening onto a large deck, a sunbathed office, mudroom with built in lockers & laundry. Lower level walk-out includes 2 bedrooms, family room and workshop. Space abounds! Steps from Willow Hill Elementary, the beach, restaurants and shopping. Call for your showing today! 1688 Incochee Hills Drive MLS 1851163 $699,900

ANN PORTER

ASSOCIATE BROKER | 231.944.4959 SCHMIDT REALTORS

Ann@AnnPorterTC.com |AnnPorterTC.com

MyNorth.com

RealEstateOne.com

57 N. Michigan Ave • Beulah • 231-882-4449

Come visit us in Traverse City, Glen Arbor, Torch Lake, Suttons Bay and surrounding areas.

811 W. Front Street, Traverse City, MI 49684

888-844-TAVR • www.tavronline.com

october | events

Art

Please find more Art at MyNorth.com

The Arty Party: 19 - 20

A wide variety of media from local artists at the Old Art Building in Leland. oldartbuilding.com

Dance

Please find more Dance at MyNorth.com.

SwingShift and the Stars: 19

The second show of the season! SwingShift and the Stars is an inventive dance-off, but more than that, it is a platform for area nonprofits to gain awareness, foster new relationships and raise much-needed funds for their organizations. swingshiftandthestars.org

Fairs, Festivals & Holidays

Please find more Fairs, Festivals & Holidays at MyNorth.com.

Beer Week: 8-13

Celebrate all that is great about Craft Beer in Michigan and do it in the cool, scenic, foodie town of Frankfort. Nightly beer tasting, concerts, food events and tap takeovers. frankfortbeerweek.com

Kids

Please find more Kids at MyNorth.com.

Jacob’s Corn Maze: 1-30

Oct. 27 Thriller Night. 3.5 miles from West Grand Traverse Bay on M-72. 231.632.MAZE, jacobscornmaze.com. Downtown Halloween Walk: 27

October closes with a parade of little ghosts and goblins as downtown hosts costume-clad children and their parents to trick or treat at participating stores throughout the Downtown Traverse City area, 10-11:30am. 231.922.2050, downtowntc.com. Trunk or Treat: 31

Back your vehicle into a parking spot on Main Street and share treats with the tricksters on the sidewalk. 5-8pm. 231.352.7251, frankfort-elberta.com.

Literary

Please find more Literary at MyNorth.com.

Michigan Hemingway Society Annual Conference: 5-7

The Michigan Hemingway Society hosts its annual conference at The Terrace Inn of Bay View, Petoskey. “Hemingway and WWI” 231.347.7200, michiganhemingwaysociety.org.

Outstanding International Autumn Styles for Men and Women at

National Writers Series Fall Line Up: 10, 20, 21, 22

Oct. 10 Joe Hill, best-selling American horror writer and author of Strange Weather. Oct. 20 Amy Goldstein, author of Janesville: An American Story, about the long-term effects of a plant’s closing. Oct. 21 Tayari Jones, bestselling author of An American Marriage (an Oprah’s Book Club selection), a story about a husband unfairly found guilty of rape. Oct. 22 Alice Walker, one of America’s bestknown writers and author of The Color Purple, discusses her novels, nonfiction work, and her recently released collection of poems titled An Arrow Out of the Heart. Enjoy a cash bar, live music and Morsels Sweet Treats, stage conversation and Q & A with author. City Opera House, Traverse City. 231.941.8082, nationalwritersseries.org.

State and Main Streets • Harbor Springs 231.526.6914 • hildaharbor@gmail.com Open Daily 10am-5pm • Sunday 12pm-4pm

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’18

2432 Red Apple Road, Manistee The water levels are high on Lake Michigan right now but when they recede you’ll be glad you found this beautiful one-story 4-BR, 2-BA home with 100 ft of frontage on LAKE MICHIGAN and 55 steps to the lake. Over an acre of land! Open floor plan with a wood-burning brick fireplace. Enormous main-flr master suite, an addition in 2001. And a main-flr laundry rm. Plus storage galore! You’ll enjoy the 2-car att gar, the 2-car det gar with an unfinished storage rm above it and the HUGE unfinished bsmnt. So there is room for added value if finished off, although no need; there’s already plenty of space. You’ll also love the fenced garden... and an extra refrigerator and freezer in the bsmnt for your produce. Metal roof in 2012. Hickory flrs in LR/DR. Geo-thermal heat. 2 water heaters. Generator. $695,000

Northport Point Waterfront 1008 E. Bay Drive, Northport $1,890,000 • MLS1846453 Northport Point is a family friendly community atmosphere that fosters memories that will last a lifetime. Home will accommodate extended family and friends with 6 bedrooms and 4.5 baths. This magniﬁcent home sits on over 190 feet of sandy beach frontage on Lake Michigan, but nestled into a cove allowing just enough solitude to have a dock & hoist for convenient and enjoyable boating. Meagan Luce (231) 883-8440 meagan@meaganluce.com soldbymeagan.com

LakeMI.com

Call/Text Suzanne Riley 231.620.9561

CENTURY 21 NORTHLAND, 241 E STATE ST, TRAVERSE CITY, MI (231) 929-7900

Established 1985

THE GREY GABLES INN RESTAURANT A Part of Charlevoix’s Heritage Since 1936

Celebrating 25 Years

Charlevoix’s Best Kept Secret

Serving Dinner • Cocktails • Sushi Menu • Piano Bar • Live Entertainment

A Harbor Sp rings Landmark for Over 30 Years!

308 BELVEDERE AVENUE • CHARLEVOIX, MICHIGAN 231.547.9261 • WWW.GREYGABLESINN.COM

Serving Dinner • Cocktails • Sushi Menu Live Entertainment • Piano Bar

We Ship Everywhere! Order at ... tomsmomscookies.com

Reservations Welcome Banquet & Catering Facilities THE GREYRoom GABLES INN RESTAURANT

Featured on the Today Show, the Food Network and the Rachael Ray Show!

Featuring SEA TO TABLE concept all Fall!

A Part of Charlevoix’s Heritage Since 1936

Serving Dinner • Cocktails • Sushi Menu • Live Piano Bar • Entertainment on Weekends Reservations Welcome • Banquet Room & Catering Facilities • Now Taking Holiday Reservations 308 BELVEDERE AVENUE • CHARLEVOIX, MICHIGAN 308 BELVEDERE AVENUE • CHARLEVOIX, MICHIGAN • 231.547.9261 • WWW.GREYGABLESINN.COM

TOM’S MOM’S

231.547.9261 • WWW.GREYGABLESINN.COM

MyNorth.com

Open Year Round 7 Days a Week Summer: 10am - 10pm Off Season: 10am - 5:30 Mon-Sat 10am - 4pm Sun

267 S. Spring St. · Harbor Springs 231-526-6606

october | events

Music

Please find more Music at MyNorth.com.

Dave Bennett Quartet: 5

Toe-tapping swing, moody blues and emotional ballads, this quartet features music from the Swing era, country, rockabilly and pop. Crooked Tree Arts Center, Petoskey. MyNorthTickets.com

ART BEAT

SATURDAY, OCT. 6

All That Jazz Music House Museum Fundraiser: 7

Kick up your heels and raise the roof in 1920s style! Music House Museum, Williamsburg. MyNorthTickets.com

Nature

Please find Nature at MyNorth.com.

Yuba Creek Natural Area Trail Building: 3 - 25

Volunteers help to 'cut-in' a trail along a steep slope into the scenic Yuba valley. All tools and gloves will be provided (bring your own favorite pair, if desired), but wear sturdy shoes and bring water. 231.929.7911, gtrlc.org. Mark Rosenbaum

Autumn Fest at 11am: a super fun, all-ages community event. Take a stroll through the forest on a trick-or-treat trail and enjoy fall arts and crafts. Owl Prowl at 7pm: learn about local owls with an indoor presentation and then go for a night hike in search of these amazing birds. Bellaire. 231.533.8314, grassriver.org.

Theater

Please find Theater at MyNorth.com.

( Happy Shopping! 128 River Street, Elk Rapids, MI 49629 - 231 264 6660 www.mullalys128.com hello ifnore is for FIND US ONthis FACEBOOK

(

Events at Grass River Natural Area: 20

.com

Mamma Mia!: 14-30

ABBA’s hit songs tell the hilarious story of a young woman’s search for her birth father. Old Town Playhouse, Traverse City. 231.947.2210, MyNorthTickets.com

And More

Please find And More at MyNorth.com.

Black Star Farms Estate & Wine Tasting Tours: 1-29

Enjoy a 45 minute guided tour through breathtaking property on the Leelanau Peninsula while learning the history of the iconic estate and about the journey from grape to glass. Followed by a premium tasting featuring internationally award-winning wines, cider and spirits. MyNorthTickets.com Groundwork's Harvest at the Commons: 13

Groundwork’s annual Harvest at the Commons event brings together friends, neighbors, and farmers to celebrate our environment, economy and community—everything we love about Michigan! $60/person for delicious farm-totable dinner and music by Detroit blues queen Thornetta Davis. 5-10pm, Traverse City. groundworkcenter.org

Leave a lasting impression on the

Petoskey Restaurant Week: 19-26

causes that are most important to you,

Three-course menus for $25 for dinner and $15 for lunch, with some establishments offering two-for-one pricing. Enjoy your favorite restaurants and discover new ones at an affordable price. The best restaurants of Petoskey and Bay Harbor have joined forces for this special culinary event! petoskeyrestaurantweek.com

Libby Stallman is calendar editor of Traverse. Enter your event information at MyNorth.com/events two to three months prior to event date. Questions or more information email Libby@mynorth.com.

through legacy gift planning with the Community Foundation.

231.935.4066 GTRCF.ORG

WHAT IMPRESSION WILL YOU CREATE?

ANTRIM . BENZIE . GRAND TRAVERSE . KALKASKA . LEELANAU

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’18

VISIT THE FRANKFORT FILM FESTIVAL www.frankfortgardentheater.com

— Celebrating 62 Years — 1956 - 2018

The Sleeping Bear Dunes are still here

NYC ARTISAN JACKETS

And so are we!

~ Motel rooms ~ ~ Luxury whirlpool suites ~ ~ Vacation condominiums ~ ~ Indoor pool & spa ~ ~ Full service marina ~ ~ Walk to shopping & restaurants ~

Suzy Voltz Shop online at www.hullsoffrankfort.com

Hull’s of Frankfort 419 Main Street, Frankfort | 231-352-4642

(231) 651-9711 suzy.voltz@gmail.com

RealEstateOne.com 57 N. Michigan Ave • Beulah 231-882-4449

15 S. Second St.,Frankfort, MI 800-346-9614 • 231-352-9614 www.HarborLightsResort.net

FROM SOIL TO SPIRITS!

TASTING, TOURS, DELICIOUS CRAFT COCKTAILS, SNACKS!

vodka • Gin • Rum • WHISKEY & specialty liquors

open year round!

2.5 miles from Crystal Mountain Resort 14234 DZUIBANEK ROAD, THOMPSONVILLE, MI 49683

231.378.3474 • ironfishdistillery.com

FOUNDERS PEAK2PEAK

MORE THAN JUST A RACE Race your way through the beautiful northern Michigan landscape as you compete in the 13th Annual Founders Peak2Peak Mountain Bike Classic on October 20 at Crystal Mountain. Race participants can enjoy special lodging discounts. Come early, stay late and make a full weekend out of it at the PEAKtoberfest, October 19-21, where you’ll enjoy German food, delicious drinks, live music, chairlift rides and more.

855.674.6547 CRYSTALMOUNTAIN.COM

42007 Traverse, October, Crystal Peak2Peak Ad.indd 1

9/5/18 4:27 PM

9TH ANNUAL GREAT LAKES GLASS PUMPKIN PATCH DAY October 6, 2018 11am-7pm

Elizabeth Blair

FinePearls

Sponsored by Three Pines Studio in conjunction with Boyer Glassworks Featuring hundreds of hand-blown glass pumpkins crafted by local glass artists, Harry Boyer and Lynn Dinning. One-of-a-kind glass pumpkins in a variety of colors, shapes, sizes and price ranges. These glass art pumpkins are perfect for the autumn season, yet beautiful enough to display year-round. Come pick the perfect pumpkin for yourself or as a gift. The Pumpkin Patch will be set up in the gardens outside and inside at Boyer Glassworks and Three Pines Studio. Pumpkins will be available throughout the fall season.

Cross Village, MI 231.526.9447 May-Oct 11am-7pm (Daily) Nov-Apr 11am-5pm (Fri-Mon)

Boyer Glassworks

Harbor Springs, MI 231.526.6359 Mon-Sat 10am-5pm (May-Dec)

Quietly collected by women who know. 115 W. Main Street | Harbor Springs, MI | 231.526.7500 westmainpearls.com | ElizabethBlair.com Jewelers of America Cultured Pearl Association of America american Gem Society

Worth Sharing UPtravel.com

UP80617 Traverse Magazine-September 2018.indd 1

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8/13/18 4:41 PM

what to do | travel

WINE TASTE LIKE A PRO Come fall harvest, vines and grapes are at their lushest and vineyard excitement at its peak. The fact that you won't often get a tasting room to yourself doesn't need to dampen the experience—not when you follow our primer for wine tasting like it’s your job (we wish!). TEXT BY KIM SCHNEIDER

GET BEYOND THE TASTING BAR Lingering is the latest vineyard visit trend, whether for an extended tasting paired with cheese, a glass of wine on the vineyard deck or beside an outdoor fire, or on a guided cellar tour. At Chateau Chantal, wander amid vines on the “Founders Trail,” a walking path now open year-round (except on spraying days) that encourages you to explore the vineyard; you can also stomp grapes at the October 6 Harvest Fest. Hang with the owner/vintner—Verterra's Paul Hamlin—when you book a private tour and tasting with a vineyard view of library wines so limited they're not served in the tasting room. Or just sit and stare at the fall color view at Petoskey Farms, where owner Tracie Roush says she operates her own fall color hotline, so to speak, for callers looking to come at peak and also solicits a roster of harvest helpers who pick in exchange for vineyard lunch, snacks and a bottle of wine from the grapes they picked.

TIMING IS EVERYTHING Michigan wineries welcome 1.7 million tourists a year, mostly between June and October. Visit midweek so it won't feel like they've all joined you on the same peak October color weekend.

Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she's the author of the recently-published book, 100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die. kimschneider.net

TASTING ROOM DO'S We asked tasting room managers for tips on how you can be the kind of guest they love to see coming. Stash this cheat sheet and get the very most from your visit. 1. Be curious and open to trying things outside of your regular pour. Says Lindy Kellogg, tasting room manager at Shady Lane Cellars, this is how you broaden your palate and find some potential new favorites. A tasting room is also the perfect place to try a new grape varietal, or a wine made in a new style, says Marie Chantal-Dalese, president and CEO of Chateau Chantal. 2. Think like a sommelier and go light on the perfumes; they affect your taste of the wine—and that of those around you. 3. Be patient with staff, especially on busy fall Saturdays. If you want a more personalized experience, ask (ahead of your visit) about private tasting or pairing opportunities. 4. Pay attention to tasting notes and hone in on descriptors. Maybe you can't necessarily pick up that “hint of white flowers” or “cherry note,” but you will know if you liked (or didn't) a wine described that way. Knowing which descriptors relate to which wines you liked will help you hone in on good selections at other tasting rooms, restaurants or wine shops. 5. Pick only a couple of wines to taste from the start, even if your tasting fee gives you five or more samples. Your reaction to the first tastes will help staff guide you to other wines you're likely to love. 6. Leave preconceptions at the door. The muscat wine at Shady Lane, for instance, is not your sweet grocery store Moscato but instead correctly listed in the dry section of the tasting menu. 7. Feel free to dump and spit if you're tasting your way across an extended day. No one will be offended, and you'll make it safely to far more stops. Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’18

COASTER CRITTERS

405 N. St. Joseph • Suttons Bay, MI 49682

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231.271.4664 Ruth Conklin and Studio

Vertu Coasters

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AMORITAS VINEYARDS TASTING ROOM OPEN DAILY: 12-6PM 6701 E DUCK LAKE ROAD, LAKE LEELANAU, MICHIGAN, 49653 | PH: 231-994-2300

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112 North Main Street Leland, MI 49654 (231) 256-7747 info@TampicoLelandMi.com FOLLOW US! www.facebook.com/Tampicolelandmi

Suttons Bay, MI 49682 231.271.3841 www.bahles.net Monday-Saturday 9:30-5:30 Sunday 11-4

essay | up in michigan

I WAS A MACKINAC ISLAND GHOST-TOUR GUIDE

Why did I take the job? I didn't believe in ghosts. I was terrified of public speaking. I had to walk down Main Street wearing a long black cape. Maybe I was temporarily possessed ... TEXT BY CARLY SIMPSON | PHOTO BY SARA WRIGHT

I don't believe in ghosts. Well, I should say, I didn't believe in ghosts. That is until I became a ghost-tour guide on Mackinac Island. It was the summer after my freshman year of college and my roommate and I had traded in textbooks for island life. By day, I was the exhibit cleaner at Fort Mackinac and a retail associate at the Island Bookstore. By night, I was a tour guide, sharing spooky stories and island legends. "That's my room," I would say each night, pointing up to the third floor of Mission House, which houses Mackinac Island State Park employees. Built in 1825, the house served as a boarding school for more than 500 Native American and Métis children. There were 16 known deaths among the students—most due to illness. And it is these children who are believed to haunt the house today.

The ghosts wander the first two floors and the basement (the third floor wasn’t added until 1845 when Mission House became a hotel, and ghosts generally stick to places they know). They’ve been seen and heard playing at night—tossing a ball in the hallway and knocking over alarm clocks. For many tenants, it isn’t uncommon to be wakened by a ghost bumping into your bed. Of course, I didn’t know any of this until after I moved in. The building next door to Mission House, the Mission Point Theater, is known to be haunted too. A ghost by the name of Harvey roams the area. I’m pretty sure I met him. Before I became an official guide, I had to run through the tour several times with a seasoned veteran. I got partnered with Lamech, who liked to pull pranks on newbies.

We were running through a story about Harvey in the pitch-black theater (lights off for dramatic effect). “Okay, Lamech, cut it out,” I said, turning to face him in the darkness. Lamech was dragging a chair backstage to creep me out. I thought. “Cut what out?” he replied from the other direction. Nope, he wasn’t backstage. For someone who didn’t believe in ghosts, my gut hit the floor pretty fast. I finally worked up the nerve to pull back the stage curtain and flip the light switch. The chair was there. Alone. My day job was on the ghost tour, too. Monday through Friday, I was the first to arrive at Fort Mackinac at 7:30 a.m. I unlocked the buildings, turned lights and exhibit displays on, swept and washed floors—basically made sure things were ready to go before guests arrived. Some mornings the fog rolling4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’18

Traverse City Lumber 5700 US 31 S Grawn, MI 49637 www.bldr.com

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essay | up in michigan

in off the Straits was so heavy I couldn’t see the next building over. Oh, and a murder of crows lived at the fort, their caws mixing with creaky wood floors. A classic spooky combo. It’s believed that several ghosts haunt the fort including two children whose father was stationed there, and the phantom piper heard playing on misty mornings at the north entryway. The creepiest building by far, however, is the Post Hospital. Dating back to

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1828, it’s the oldest hospital building in Michigan. Nineteenth-century medical tools line the walls and an audio-video display shows Post Surgeon Dr. Erasmus Wolcott diagnosing patients. A tourist is rumored to have taken a photo of an unexplainable ghostly leg in the hospital and many visitors say they feel sad upon entering. I can’t say I ever felt sad, but I regularly got chills—the spine-tingling kind—and that gut feeling something is watching you. Are ghosts real? I’ve never seen one, so how can I say for sure? But what I do know is the island of fudge and horses has a mysterious side. And you should probably take a flashlight and a friend with you. Brave enough to take the tour? Visit hauntsofmackinac.com. Or read Haunts of Mackinac by Todd Clements, founder of the tour. Carly Simpson is web editor of MyNorth.com and Traverse Magazine. csimpson@traversemagazine.com

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www.ihg.com Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’18

BEST COLOR TOUR VIEWS YES, THIS IS MICHIGAN. TAKE IT ALL IN. UP NORTH’S MOST BEAUTIFUL VISTAS—AND HOW TO ENJOY THEM TO THE FULLEST.

TEXT BY CARLY SIMPSON // PHOTOS BY HEATHER HIGHAM + JOHN HILL

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Traverse, Northern Michiganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Magazine | OCT '18

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1 | R ANSOM LAKE + JOSHUA CROSSING COVERED BRIDGE Lake Ann (a.k.a. Loon Song Covered Bridge)

on the back patio, but be sure to see the view of Power Island and West Grand Traverse Bay from the front yard. 15900 Rue de Vin, Traverse City. 231.223.4110. chateauchantal.com

GET THERE: Ransom Lake: The Lake Ann Road Parking Area

has barrier-free parking and restrooms, and a universally accessible trail along Ransom Creek to a deck overlooking the lake. There is a second access point and parking lot off Bellows Lake Road and 1.8 miles of trails. *Hunting is allowed at the natural area. Wear bright colors. GET THERE: Joshua Crossing: From Lake Ann, take Maple

Street west for about a half-mile. Turn right on Reynolds Road. Drive 1 mile and park on the side of the road just past Sleeping Bear Resort. A short trail (about 200 feet) will lead you to the bridge. 7700 N. Reynolds Rd. DON’T MISS: Grab a gourmet pizza at Stone Oven on First

Street then mosey next door to Lake Ann Brewing for a craft beer or cider (or go straight for a cold one—Stone Oven will deliver to you). Catching a fall color sunrise? The Red Door Coffee House serves breakfast, pastries and espresso. Take your goodies to Almira Township Lakefront Park for a picnic by Lake Ann (the park is also on Maple Street, .1 mile from the coffee shop).

2 | GRAND PORTAL POINT // Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore GET THERE: Park at Chapel Basin Parking Lot. You’ll be hiking

out to the point. The 10-mile Chapel Loop will take you past Chapel Falls and Chapel Beach before Grand Portal Point, the halfway mark. Choose to add on 3.4 miles round-trip to see Spray Falls and 1.4 miles to get to Mosquito Falls. Map: nps.gov/piro/planyourvisit/dayhikes.htm DON’T MISS: See Grand Portal Point from the water with

Pictured Rocks Cruises. Tours run through mid-October and often sell out so pre-purchase your tickets. Fares range from $38 (classic and sunset cruises) to $45 (Spray Falls cruise). Children ages 6–12 cost $10 and children under 6 cost $1. 100 City Park Dr., Munising. 906.387.2379. picturedrocks.com DO THIS: Visit the Alger County Heritage Center. Exhibits feature Grand Island, the Munising Woodenware Company, barn building, homemaking, and sauna—a Yooper ritual. A fur trader’s cabin and blacksmith shop are also on site. Open Tuesday–Saturday, noon to 3 p.m. 1496 Washington St., Munising. 906.387.4308

3 | CHATEAU CHANTAL // Old Mission Peninsula GET THERE: From the base of Old Mission, head north for about

a half-mile on Peninsula Drive. Stay right onto M-37 (Center Road) and drive 12 miles. Chateau Chantal will be on the right on Rue de Vin. If it’s warm out, enjoy a glass of wine

DON’T MISS: Old Mission Flowers is a self-serve garden

with hundreds of varieties. The garden is open daily from dawn to dusk through October. Containers, water, flower preservative, and scissors are available, and the flowers are sold on an honor system with prices ranging from $.50 to $5 a stem. Bring cash or check. (16550 Center Rd., Traverse City. 231.499.5474. oldmissionflowers.com) Watch for farm stands as you’re driving on the peninsula for seasonal produce, baked goods, honey, and more. Cherry Capital Farm Market is the oldest in Grand Traverse County. 14325 Center Rd. Traverse City. 231.223.7283.

4 | SCOTT FALLS // Au Train GET THERE: From Munising, travel 10 miles west on M-28. The H.J. Rathfoot Roadside Park will be on the right—park here—with restrooms, picnic tables, charcoal grills, and beach access. The falls are across the highway. Walk behind the falls for a fantastic photo op. DON’T MISS: The “Face in the Rock” at the roadside park.

The stone carving was done as a tribute to Powers of the Chippewa tribe who lived on battle with the Sioux. Plaques tell the full story.

by a French voyager in 1820 Air, the sole survivor of the Grand Island before a bloody along the wooden boardwalk

DO THIS: Stop by Falling Rock Cafe & Bookstore in downtown

Munising before you head out. An uber-local smoked whitefish breakfast bagel is served all day along with smoothies, espresso drinks, and deli sandwiches (we hear the custom grilled cheese is something special). Browse the 30,000-plus new, used, and rare books, too. (Find the book, A Face in the Rock - The Tale of a Grand Island Chippewa, $26.95.) And, psst, as of press time this Munising gathering place is for sale to just the right buyer. Why not pull up a chair and stay a while? 104 E. Munising Ave., Munising. 906.387.3008. fallingrockcafe.com

5 | BROWN BRIDGE QUIET AREA // Mayfield GET THERE: Located about 11 miles southeast of downtown

Traverse City. Take South Garfield Road to Brown Bridge Road. The parking area is on the left before you reach Wadsworth Road. Explore 6 miles of hiking trails and several overlooks of the Boardman River. You can also access the quiet area off Ranch Rudolf Road. *Deer hunting is allowed outside the core area and on the far east section. Wear bright colors. natureiscalling.org

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

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DON’T MISS: Don’s Drive-In looks the same as it did in 1958. Order a burger and milkshake or warm up with a bowl of chili. donsdriveinmi.com DO THIS: Go on a horseback riding tour at Ranch Rudolf. Trail

rides are generally offered through the third week in October, but call ahead for availability. Choose a one- or two-hour ride, or a 15-minute “buckaroo” adventure for children ages 3–7. Not in full giddyup mode? Take a scenic 45-minute hayride through the Boardman River Valley courtesy of Prince and Monte, the ranch’s Belgian horses. 6841 Brown Bridge Rd., Traverse City. 231-947-9529. ranchrudolf.com

6 | HIGH ROLLAWAYS // Buckley

DON’T MISS: Glen Arbor has several galleries featuring Michigan

artists. Park the car downtown and walk to Synchronicity Gallery, Ruth Conklin Gallery, Glen Arbor Artisans, Glen Lake Artists Gallery, and Forest Gallery. At Cottage Book Shop, a darling log cabin, you’ll find posters of iconic places within Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore—they look beautiful framed.

9 | JORDAN RIVER VALLEY // Elmira GET THERE: This is the Landslide Overlook. From Alba, drive

west on Alba Highway for about 1 mile and turn right on Harvey Road. Follow the overlook signs for 2 miles to the end of Harvey Road. It’s also a stop on the Jordan River Pathway loop, which is popular among backpackers.

GET THERE: From downtown Buckley, take East Wexford

Avenue 1 mile to N 17 Road. Hang a right and drive a halfmile to W 4 Road. Continue 4 miles. Stay on W 4 Road when it becomes dirt. Follow the North Country Trailhead signs to the trailhead and High Rollways Observation Deck. DON’T MISS: Get homemade cider and fresh donuts then

pick pumpkins at Pahl’s Country Store. A $4 entrance fee includes hay and straw mazes. Say hey to friendly farm animals (shoutout to Penelope the pygmy goat). Wagon rides and barrel train rides are offered on weekends. 11168 M-37, Buckley. 231.269.4400. pahlscountrystore.com

7 | PETOSKEY AREA // Along US-131 GET THERE: From Boyne Falls, head north on US-131 to Sheridan

Road, about 14.5 miles. Turn right. Sheridan Road dead-ends at Howard Street. Turn left and head into downtown Petoskey.

DON’T MISS: The Pigeon River Country State Forest near

Gaylord is home to the second largest free-ranging elk herd in the Midwest. The best time to visit is September and October during mating season. Elk viewing has become popular, so visit during the week if possible. The best viewing is done from your car—don’t forget binoculars. Three places to go: On Fontinalis Road about 3 miles north of Sturgeon Valley Road you will find a small cleared parking area and field; the DNR-signed elk-viewing area on East Sturgeon Valley Road, about 8 miles east of Vanderbilt; less than 1 mile north of the Osmun Road and Clark Bridge Road intersection. If you don’t see an elk in the wild, go to Gaylord City’s Elk Park. Currently about 70 elk can be viewed near the Elks Lodge off Grandview Boulevard. gaylordmichigan.net

10 | CHIPPEWA RUN NATURAL AREA // Empire GET THERE: From the intersection on M-72 and M-22 in

DON’T MISS: Satisfy your sweet tooth at Johan’s Pastry Shop

with giant apple fritters or if you get there early, their glazed or cinnamon-and-sugared pumpkin doughnuts (565 W. Mitchell St., Petoskey. 231.347.3815). Then stop by Somebody’s Gallery and browse works by various Michigan artists, including jewelry, paintings, furniture, sculptures, and more. 302 E. Lake St., Petoskey. 231.881.4745. somebodysgallery.com

8 | DH DAY FARM // Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore GET THERE: From downtown Glen Arbor, take M-109 west for about 2 miles. Turn left to stay on M-109, South Dune Highway. In a half-mile, the farm will be on your left. The farm is private property. Enjoy the view from the side of the road or hike to the top of the Dune Climb for a gorgeous aerial view. (You’ll need a park pass to hike the dunes; available at Dune Climb entrance; $20 per vehicle, valid for seven days.)

Empire, head north on M-22 for about a mile. The parking area is located on the left just south of the creek. Hike the 1.5-mile trail on easy terrain. 11300 S. Leelanau Hwy. leelanauconservancy.org DON’T MISS: Explore downtown Empire. Sleeping Bear Gallery

features a variety of mediums—metal, wood, glass, painting, sculptures, photography—and is open through October. Across the street, The Misers’ Hoard has an inticing mix of old and new decor—plan on spending some time here. Shipwreck Cafe serves breakfast wraps and hearty sandwiches on delectable pretzel or herb rolls.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

CAN’T GET ENOUGH? See more of Heather Higham’s gorgeous photos at facebook.com/mynorthmedia

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… JUST KIDDING. A BONUS NO. 11, BECAUSE WE COULDN’T HELP OURSELVES PHOTO BY JOHN HILL

11 | RUTH LAKE // NEAR MARQUETTE GET THERE: About 30 miles west of Ishpeming and 43 miles from Marquette, Ruth Lake is located right off US-41/M-28 in Three Lakes. Pull over at the Ruth Lake Picnic Area. DON’T MISS: Head into Ishpeming and delve into the local culture of Yooperism at Da Yoopers Tourist Trap. Home of “Gus,” the largest working chainsaw in the world, and “Big Ernie,” the largest working rifle in the world, Da Yoopers has gifts, wacky vehicles, and sculptures made from found objects. 490 Steel St., Ishpeming. 906.485.5595. dayoopers.com Established in 1918, the Marquette Regional History Center is celebrating its 100th birthday. The museum’s permanent collection includes artifacts from the prehistoric copper culture through contemporary times. Admission: adults $7, seniors $6, students $3, children 12 and under $2. 145 W. Spring St., Marquette. 906.226.3571. marquettehistory.org Around the corner, the Upper Peninsula Children’s Museum where kids can climb into the stomach and slide down the intestine in The Human Body exhibit, play in an enormous tree, see turtles in The Fantastic Forest, and explore an archaeological dig site in the Wunderground. Admission: adults and children ages 2–17 $6, children 1 and under free, families with 10 members or fewer $25. 123 W. Baraga Ave., Marquette. 906.226.3911. upchildrensmuseum.org Carly Simpson is web editor of MyNorth.com and Traverse. csimpson@traversemagazine.com // Heather Higham is a landscape & portrait photographer based in beautiful Traverse City. snaphappygal.com // John Hill is an adventure photographer that strives to inspire people to experience the beauty of Michigan for themselves. www.johnhillphotos.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

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MUSKIE CAMP CALLING THE FICKLE, SHARP-TOOTHED MUSKELLUNGE —MUSKIE FOR SHORT— LURES A GROUP OF GUYS TO THE U.P. FOR A WEEKEND. ONCE THE MYSTICAL RIVER GRABS HOLD OF THEM, THERE IS NO GOING BACK.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY DAVE KARCZYNSKI

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

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hat good,” Aldo Leopold once asked, “are 40 freedoms without a blank spot on the map?” This was the very question my three friends and I set about discussing one summer some eight years ago while planning what was supposed to be a one-time October adventure. After two months of consultation with DeLorme Gazateers, Google Earth, internet message boards, ancient watershed reports and every half-hinted rumor we could collectively remember, we decided the place to let our collective freedoms fly was the Tahquamenon River in the Eastern Upper Peninsula. And, being fly anglers just a little tired of trout, we would funnel our liberties toward the pursuit of esox masquinongy: the muskellunge. Those readers unacquainted with the sport of muskie fishing are excused by reason of sanity: it takes more than a half-pint of madness to chase North America’s largest gamefish. But it’s not the size of the quarry that makes the enterprise suspect (though it’s true our landing net is big enough for two full grown adults to enjoy a comfortable lunch). Rather, it’s the extreme wariness of the pursued. A fallacious cliché declares the muskie the fish of 10,000 casts, but having fished them for nearly a decade, and being a talented counter with a graduate degree in fiction writing, I can assert that the number is actually closer to infinity (several of my hardestfishing friends have yet to bring a fish to hand). But this elusiveness is not to suggest that not catching a muskie is the same as not seeing one. Far from it. Muskies are in fact among the most curious fish in the catalog, regularly

tracking flies and lures back to the boat with a shark’s bulging wake, and so seeing one is a fairly regular occurrence; it’s getting one to actually eat your offering that’s difficult—a curious challenge given that muskies literally live to eat. To put things in perspective: take your greatest gourmand friend and imagine their second favorite hobby was staring at their food—chin on table, eyes wide—before walking away without having taken a bite or paid their bill. This inexplicable moodiness is what makes a muskie a muskie. Only once has every member of our party boated a muskie during a single trip. And despite a lack of sane accommodation (just a mess of tents and tarps stained by every form of tobacco ever invented) we persevere. Rapturously, in fact. Two years of muskie camp became four, four became six. One member moved to Atlanta, another to Minneapolis, but this has only made our yearly expeditions longer and more complex. Somehow, an outing born of a single wild hare has become—with apologies to our very admirable trout and turkey camps—not just a ritual, but the sporting ritual of the year. Parsing why this should be the case has become regular campfire practice, and during especially rainy or fishless trips the question dominates morning coffee as well. Easy answers are hard to come by. Certainly, one reason muskie camp continues to exist against all odds is for the rare opportunity for transformative suffering—think pain of the most noble, beatific, Old Testament variety. The three of us have borne witness to all-night windstorms so furious the hammocks we slept in Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

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GET YOUR FISHING BUDDIES. Dave takes us on another epic fishing adventure, this time on Beaver Island. MyNorth.com/carpfishing

bucked and lurched with the trees till morning; frigid nights that froze our waders so stiff we had to ice-breaker our feet back in come morning; mosquitoes so large they shuddered in the trees like grouse; hands pulped to hamburger by the double burden of wet cork and wetter hand; casting shoulders with sworn oaths to stay impinged till the end of time; and so on. The following is a fact: if you do not believe in the redemptive power of pain, lay down thy fresh purchased muskie rod and get thee to a B&B. Then there is the beauty of the evening light on the Tahquamenon River in October, which when placed alongside the aforementioned hardships induces in the viewer an ecstatic sense of the sublime. It happens at least once a trip, usually while motoring back to camp in a biting evening wind, that you feel as if you’ve slipped through a cosmic gaping wormhole into another galaxy, and you are left struggling like a camera against its shutter to take it all in, all the same fluorescent colors you see in a street-artist’s spray-painted cosmos, but without any of the attendant nausea. Quite the opposite. In fact it was on the Tahq that I had my most loving and generous thought ever about the Earth, that in a far future where we humans had spread to establish smart colonies on other spheres, I’d be among those still sneaking back to Earth once a year, and thinking to myself as I visited my old haunts: “You had to admit, even in the most cosmic scheme of things, it’s a rather beautiful place.” As if this beauty wasn’t enough, there’s also the fact that muskie camp reminds us that the human body is a tool whose edges fade with time, but that there are activities that provide fair compensation for the blunting. Catching a good muskie, I maintain, is one of them. Not that you’ll spend much time actually tethered to a fish, relatively speaking. 12, 20, and 72 are the respective seconds that camp members spent embroiled in combat with living specimens in the last calendar year. Spread out over a lifetime, these numbers suggest that even the luckiest in our triad will be hard pressed to have broken the ten-minute mark by the time he makes his Final Cast. But time, muskie fishing would argue, is not created equal. Those heart-pounding moments when a shovel-headed beast appears just inches from your fly, or when a fire of belabored wet wood finally catches and springs starward, casting towering shadows over time spent assembling sandwiches, sitting in traffic and staring at screens. Last but not least, perhaps the most persuasive case for muskie camp’s longevity is for the faith it has instilled in us. We all know that the small world we live and work in day to day—one well-circumscribed, fenced in, and concretized—can and will, by the second day of camp, be transformed into a bigger place, restoring our souls to their original condition and most primeval shape—about four feet long and full of teeth. Dave Karczynski teaches writing and photography at the University of Michigan, Ann Arbor.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

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A vegetarian butcher, a cherry entrepreneur and a beatboxer walk into a bar. It’s not a joke. It’s Fulfillament, a storytelling event at The Workshop Brewing Company in Traverse City. And those are just three of the storytellers for the night. There are a total of five (one is always a musician who performs), and each have 15 minutes to share their journey toward fulfillment and meaning through vocation—their inside story. But—and this is where the name of the event comes in—there is a focus on the filament, the glow of a light bulb, the WHY that makes a person come alive. It’s not business profile. It’s not an outrageous story with a punchline. It’s deeper. It’s about that inside thread of light. Filament + fulfillment = Fulfillament. And it’s the brainchild of two Traverse City women, Chelsea Bay Dennis and Shea Petaja. Today, we are seated in Shea’s backyard just a few blocks from Grand Traverse Bay under a warm July sun. The daylilies are in full bloom and there are outdoor lights strung over a tiny dog pen for her tiny Pomeranian—known for embarking on long-distance adventures if she gets loose—named Poppy. Chelsea is a graphic designer and creative consultant who focuses on working with socially and environmentally conscious businesses. She’s married and mother to two-year-old daughter, Midori. Shea is a radio co-host for New Retirement Radio, the CXO (Chief Experience Officer) at Prout Financial Design, and has started a story coach business. “I’m launching a brand new process to help people find their story and using my life coaching experience to inform it,” she says.

Today Shea’s feet are bare and propped up on the patio chair next to her. Poppy has been given instructions to let us talk in peace. Here, my conversation with the cocreators of Fulfillament as they talk about what fulfillment looks like, both for others and themselves: HOW DID YOU TWO CONNECT? C: We knew each other back in high school. We reconnected years later in Traverse City and realized we had a similar heart. And we are both passionate about living out our truths, and helping others live more fully, inside and out. S: On the outside, we are opposites. I’m a night owl/she’s an early bird, I wear black/she wears color, I drive/she walks, I’m an intrapreneur/she’s an entrepreneur, I have a Pomeranian/she has a toddler. Our two coaching styles are also completely opposite. I do a lot of the psychology behind a dream, the internal work. Chelsea is more of a small business coach, helping people make stuff happen. We work well together. She shows them how to pull the trigger, I tell them they can! HOW DOES LIFE COACHING TURN INTO STORYTELLING? C: I wanted to do something bigger than one-on-one coaching, I wanted to inspire a lot of people to love what they do. Rather than “teaching” through a workshop or conference, we decided we could “show not tell” through stories. I had always helped companies tell their stories through branding, so it was natural to do this. At Fulfillament, hearing stories from community leaders and entrepreneurs takes away the mystery, the thought that

others have something that we do not. We all have failures, ah-ha moments, joys and tragedies that make us who we are, and we are all capable of starting something, changing something, loving what we do and making a difference. S: I was going to be a pastor. I ended up with a Communications degree with an emphasis in theater. Essentially, I wanted to help people understand themselves through their story. I have always been curious about people and their lives. Even when I sold furniture, one of my many careers, I couldn’t help but ask someone testing out a mattress, “So, what is it that you do for a living?” I just couldn’t help myself! I had to know! Chelsea’s husband said to me one night, “You should be a life coach too.” I said, “I don’t think so.” Three months later I began my own certification alongside Chels. WHAT DOES A STORYTELLING EVENT LOOK LIKE? C: You’ll hear their life story; their ups, downs, clarity... and you’ll think, whoa, that’s totally me! It’s like one big permission slip to ask yourself what makes you come alive and challenge yourself to do something about it. You see yourself in the storytellers. S: And it’s not just the audience that changes from hearing their story. The speaker changes from having to write and tell their story. They realize how much they’ve done and gotten through. It’s radical. They learn how to own their own story. TELL ME HOW A SPEAKER CHANGED AFTER THEIR STORY. C: Stephanie Wiitala is a perfect example. She told her story about doing

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

all this awesome passion work as a chef for Black Star Farms. She finished speaking and realized she was doing this for someone else, but she wanted to do it for herself. So she opened her own business, Sugar 2 Salt, which has become a respected and loved part of our foodie community. S: Julie Green, a hospice nurse, told her story. She never talked about her career because people found it too depressing. But her story was so compelling and humorous, that she got a standing ovation, our first at any event. Her story changed me. C: And there’s Chuck Korson, owner of BLK MRKT. He used to work at bars in college—at the dark end of the day. He intentionally switched to coffee to be the light in the morning that can positively affect people for the rest of their day. He runs a coffee shop full of people and he didn’t realize what a big part of the community he was until he told that story. HOW DOES FULFILLAMENT GO BEYOND THAT NIGHT? C: We are big on making a difference with your work, so we try to positively impact the attendees, sponsors, suppliers, environment, community, etc. A few things we do is give a discount to those who walk or bike and give out a $500 grant at each event to one person who has a good idea that needs help to get moving. WHY $500? C: Ten years ago, I had a friend who was unhappy being a counselor and dreamed about becoming a photographer. All she needed was a computer. I believed in her and gave her $500, no strings attached. Now she is a full-time independent photographer! As a thank you, she photographed my wedding! That’s how the “good idea grant” got started. S: The grant comes with a coaching session with each of us. An idea is great, but what are you going to do about it? We empower them to make it real and chart a path to make it happen.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BEST GRANT STORY YET? S: Our craziest grant ever given went to Casey Petz who wanted to find a cheap sailboat to get people out on the lake. He ended up getting a 43-foot sailboat donated to the community to get veterans out on the water (Great Lakes Warrior Sailing). He had a hard time spending the grant money; he tried to give it back to us because everyone donated everything. WHAT’S THE STORY ABOUT YOU THAT NO ONE HEARS? C: Our chronic pain, on a daily basis. S: My friend says, “To be a whole person, you really have to struggle.” Our struggle is our chronic pain. For me, it’s my head. For her, it’s her gut. C: Pain can be lonely. It separates you from the rest of the world. Sharing the experience with each other helps. S: Pain cuts the B.S. out. You don’t have the bandwidth to handle setbacks. The sicker I got, the more serious I got—I can thank my illness for that. The more limited I became, the harder I pushed. I’m sick, cool, I’m going to become a Life Coach. I’m getting sicker—I’ll take on clients! You’re not going to take me down. S: We don’t look sick because no one knows about or sees the pain. We feel 90...inside! C: But it’s part of our story. Shea is 38, and Chelsea is 36, both were born and raised in Traverse City. The next Fulfillament event is October 11 at Workshop Brewing Company. Visit fulfillamentstories.com for more information and podcasts of previous speakers including Ty Schmidt (Norté), Jerry Dennis (writer), Rich Brauer (filmmaker), Jettie Rae (musician), Tim Young (Food for Thought), Eric Patterson (Cooks’ House), May Erlewine (musician), brotha James and more. Kandace Chapple is a freelance writer and co-publisher of Grand Traverse Woman Magazine. You can find her at www.kandacechapple.com // Michael Poehlman is a Traverse City-based commercial, portrait and fine art photographer. Check out some highlights at michaelpoehlman.com

Every Fulfillament speaker wraps up their talk by offering a challenge to the crowd to find fulfillment in their own lives. Here are two from the co-hosts. CHELSEA: Take on the quote “We are the ones we have been waiting for.” (Alice Walker). Make that thing you are waiting for happen—yourself. SHEA: Don’t go at it alone. Find a partner to co-create with, share your talents and invite others into it.

FULFILLAMENT IN ACTION. Peek inside Stephanie Wiitala’s restaurant, Sugar 2 Salt. (Be prepared to make breakfast plans—it’s amazing.) MyNorth.com/insideS2S

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

MyNorth.com

HE CAME OF AGE ON THE TRAILS AT GRAND TRAVERSE COMMONS, WHEN THEY WERE STILL A PART OF THE TRAVERSE CITY STATE HOSPITAL GROUNDS. ADVENTURE PHOTOGRAPHER ERIK OLSON TELLS HOW ONE RIP DOWN HIS HOMETOWN HILL WAS ALL IT TOOK TO GET HOOKED. ESSAY + PHOTOS BY ERIK OLSEN

t was the 90’s. Times were simple, hair was in curtains, and certain sports started getting “extreme.” Cycling was no exception. Network giant ESPN was quick to host competitions that would push this concept into the stratosphere. The ESPN Extreme Games (this was before extreme was forced to sacrifice its “E”) were chock-full of strong characters like Hans “No Way” Rey and Missy “The Missile” Giovi splashed all over television. They were as outlandish as the bikes they rode. Manufacturers were paying attention, trying to construct bikes that could keep up with the exhibitions of their athletes. I recall seeing a Muddy Fox Interactive for the first time, a bike forged of non-traditional shapes with odd fixtures, springs and mechanical bits bolted on in random places. The pilots of these contraptions would shield themselves in off-road motorcycle armor making them look more like gladiators, far removed from their cross-country counterparts. I am sure that all of this appears to be incoherent rambling—you are probably correct—however as a youth just marrying myself to a sport, the teen angst within it certainly left a lasting impression on me, for better or worse. While home from college for the summer I was exploring in the woods behind the Traverse City State Hospital, trying to familiarize myself with the multitude of loops making up the trial system. After getting myself thoroughly lost, I entered into an area that seemed less tracked. I was tracing a trail that ended in a wooden structure; a ramp that did not touch the ground on the far end. Eureka! I had found the first of several very large wooden drop-jumps that could only mean one of two things: either I had found a portal that transported me to Vail Colorado and the mid-90’s downhill race scene, or someone had been inspired to create similar features here, right under

my nose. We didn’t quite have “jurassic terrain” but someone was making the best of what we did have. And it was pretty scary looking. The following day I was back with my burly ramp-riding helmet and a buddy. We rode everything we dared until we ran out of daylight. You couldn’t wipe the dirt or smiles from our faces. This was like realizing a dream. This place was amazing: beautifully sculpted features, trails utilizing the hillsides and carving left and right under the largest canopy of leaves imaginable. It inspired a sense of awe with a certain crafted beauty. It was quickly apparent that someone had been working hard constructing all of this. I set out day after day, any time I was free from work to try to dial in the trails, continuing to discover more. I was spending so much time up there that I started to run into other riders, many of them from all corners of Michigan. I started to see how special this place was to so many people. I heard stories about how these paths were originally built as walking trails by patients at the State Hospital decades before. I found out the trails had names (there is no signage posted). “This is called Bucket Run. Someone found a rusty old bucket when they were cutting into the hillside.” “This trail is called Onion Run.” Why is it called onion run? “Wait until the wild leeks start to poke through the ground, you’ll know.” There was a warmth to everyone I met at the trail system. On some weekends it was the oddest collection of people sharing a common interest and a common appreciation for something we all knew was special. My almost suspension-less cross-country bike was starting to show signs of heavy use and it was clear that it was holding me back. On a recommendation I persued a local shop I knew as the source of most of my snowboard gear but in the summer

was a skate shop and downhiller’s mecca. On my second visit I walked away with my first NASA-inspired downhill rig and within two weeks was able to ride every feature on the grounds of the State Hospital with grace. The end of summer was approaching when I caught word of The Bootleg. This culminating race event happens late into the fall. A race with character. Price of entry is one used bicycle part that functions. I headed back to school. I was sure to come back for Bootleg Weekend though. I pulled in to discover a parking lot filled with cars. New and old faces from all over Michigan. A surprisingly formal race setup existed in the woods and the race trails were manicured and cleaned of fall leaves. The racing heats went off without any real incidents and to the adulation of cheering fans (yes, there was a crowd!) and other competitors alike. To my utter surprise my name was called as the 3rd place finisher that year, meaning I was able to be the third person to rummage through the collection of used bike parts scattered in the bed of a pickup to collect my trophy. I was beyond hooked. As school and life got more complex I became less of a fixture in the hills, but I still make it a point to go spend a lot of time up there. Last year I even raced the Bootleg again. Some of the faces have changed but there is still an old crew up there shepherding in the new crew. Come up and ride, come up and watch. Take part in a cleanup day or do some trail building. You will find an eclectic group of enthusiastic people from little grommets ripping around on fat bikes to teens on slack downhill bikes to retirees in spandex on 29ers. Everyone with dirt and smiles on their faces. Erik Olsen shoots active lifestyle and commercial photography from Traverse City. erik@eolsenphoto.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

MyNorth.com

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PEDAL ON. Discover more epic bike adventures, sweet trails and the people influencing cycling culture in Northern Michigan. MyNorth.com/bike

• C oax a friend into tagging along. The buddysystem is a good fail-safe and adds a subtle level of competition to outrace your pals. •O bserve proper spacing while riding to allow ample room to brake. • S tay on the path. Be respectful of all plants, wildlife and other trail users.

• Always wear a helmet. Riding gloves are also recommended for protection. • Even when trails are marked and color-coded accordingly, it’s prudent to at least snap a pic of the map located at the trailheads. This can be a useful reference when you are in the back trails and encounter forks and intersections. —Drew VanDrie

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

MyNorth.com

MOUNTAIN BIKING IS ON A COMPLETE AND TOTAL TEAR RIGHT NOW, AND WE ARE LOVING THAT TREND. TO HELP FUEL THE SURGE, WE ASKED RIDERS AT TWO OF THE NORTH’S DESTINATION BIKE SHOPS, SPENCER NEMECEK AT LATITUDE 45 IN PETOSKEY (476 W. MITCHELL ST., 231.348.5342, LATITUDE45.COM) AND CODY SOVIS AT EINSTEIN CYCLES IN TRAVERSE CITY (1990 N. US 31, 231.421.8148, EINSTEINCYCLES.COM) FOR 10 NORTHERN MICHIGAN MOUNTAIN BIKE TRAILS THEY’D RECOMMEND TO FRIENDS—GOOD FRIENDS.

➊ NORTH COUNTRY TRAIL, PETOSKEY

➍ GLACIAL HILLS, BELLAIRE

Round Petoskey way, the more northern sections of the North Country Trail deliver flatter terrain that’s ideal for beginners, intermediates and families. Park where the trail crosses Kip Road and head north. A notable climb starts things off, but then the trail levels out.

Sovis and Nemecek both recommend this one. “The community is really behind Glacial Hills and keeps it really well maintained,” Sovis says. And Nemecek’s take: “A ton of trail and it’s really well done.” Expect 31.5 miles of well-engineered, flowy trails. Accessible enough for beginners, attitude enough for experts.

South of Petoskey, the North Country Trail gets tougher, with huge, quad-burner climbs. Take US-131 south to Bear Lake Road. Turn east and follow to where the road veers to become Maxwell. Park where the trail crosses Maxwell Road and follow the trail signs.

➋ BOYNE CITY SCHOOL FOREST, BOYNE CITY The Boyne school system offers mountain bike trails on a chunk of forest it owns (Go Boyne schools!). “It’s flowy and easy, but is still fun for people who can rip downhill runs, too,” Nemecek says. Look for an advanced loop to be added soon. 3.7 miles of trail (expanding to 11 miles). From Boyne City, go north on Wildwood Harbor Road to Erickson. Left on Erickson. Park a few hundred yards past where Erickson intersects Griffen.

➌

AVALANCHE PRESERVE, BOYNE CITY With a badass trail system right in its midst, Boyne City makes an ideal locale for an afternoon ride and post-trail bevs. What Nemecek likes here: “There’s a big climb and then the descent back is awesome.” Avalanche is an older trail, so not especially flowy, but the terrain makes up for it. A longer, less steep trail to the top is also an option. Total trail length 4.8 miles. The International Mountain Biking Association is building more trail, which will be well engineered and more flowy.

➎

HANSON HILLS, GRAYLING A nice mix of terrain and trail lengths makes Hanson Hills good for all skill levels. Flat at the start, followed by decent hills. A bit sandy at times. “Pretty well engineered,” Nemecek says. Total trail 24 miles. A mile southwest of Grayling.

➏ VASA, WILLIAMSBURG Near Traverse City, the big obvious go-to trail is the Vasa, but the trail also has a not-so-obvious and exquisite extra. First, the obvious: Choose between riding the 15 miles of relatively wide XC trail (cut wide for skate skiing), which is ideal for beginners and families, but can be fun for riders looking to hammer it (trailhead off Bartlett Road, Williamsburg). Or opt for the 12 miles of easy to moderate single-track (trailhead off Supply Road). The not-soobvious bonus, says Sovis: miles and miles of bootleg single-track that twists through a 16-square-mile swath of Pere Marquette State Forest. Bring a compass, but don’t worry, you can’t get too lost, because the section is bordered by highways—you’ll hit one eventually. Six miles east of downtown Traverse City.

➐ GT COMMONS, TRAVERSE CITY Just a couple miles of trail here, but the accessibility—right in TC—combined with the terrain—hilly!—make this bite-sized bit of backcountry a local riders go-to destination. Perfect for after-work training and

finding camaraderie with fellow pedalers. Bonus: “There are some steep descents, especially for younger riders on dedicated downhill bikes. Big jumps and big gaps. Nothing I’d ride, but it’s fun to watch,” Sovis says. A mile west of downtown TC.

➑ ARCADIA DUNES, ARCADIA A lovely and professionally engineered and constructed trail a couple miles north of the tiny burg of Arcadia, near the Lake Michigan shore. Roll across 8.2 miles of hilly terrain on flowy trails. “You can easily spend three or four hours here,” Sovis says. (Expand the ride by parking in Arcadia, a couple of miles south and ride gravel roads to the trailhead.) Take M22 to St. Pierre Road; turn east, parking 100 yards down.

➒ BIG M, MANISTEE A robust mix of terrain—flats, sustained climbs—and 33 miles of trail make this system appealing to anybody. Trail style is a mix of XC trail, two-track and singletrack. Those looking to take on a long day of riding can do so here. Twelve miles east of Manistee off Udell Hills Road.

➓ N ORTH COUNTRY TRAIL ALONG MANISTEE RIVER, MESICK Expect solitude, lots of elevation changes and marvelous views of the river valley through the filter of pine and hardwood forest on this stretch of the NCT. “It’s a little bit rougher, a bit more isolated,” Sovis says. His advice: pack plenty of water, energy snacks, tools and a flat repair kit. Park at Marilla Road trailhead, near Mesick. From M115, turn southwest on Hodenpyl Dam Road, go 5.5 miles, look for trailhead. Pedal south to Dillings Road. Do an out-and-back ride. —Jeff Smith

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

MyNorth.com

TALE OF 2LADS MEET TWO INNOVATORS CHANGING THE FACE OF NORTHWEST MICHIGAN’S WINE SCENE. TEXT BYTIM TEBOW // PHOTOS BY JESSE GREEN

Sharp October light filters through the leaves spattering asymmetrical shadows on the curves of Sleepy Hollow Road. The land itself is a sine wave here near the tip of the Old Mission Peninsula, dipping and rolling before it flatlines into the watery plane of East Grand Traverse Bay. Coming around the last bend, the sharpest one that will test your suspension if you hit it too fast, the curves give way to a stunning hilltop geometry. Two L’s made of steel, concrete and glass are transposed on an axis made by the rising sun. Symmetrical rows of cabernet franc, pinot noir and chardonnay vines spider out along taut linear trellis wires. The angular steel silhouette of a tractor is parked next to stacked cubes of bottle pallets. It’s not even 10 a.m. and already the parking lot is starting to fill. Four twenty-somethings roll out of a Subaru. A middle-aged couple in shiny white Range Rover coo over the vista. Inside, the tasting room staff are polishing glasses and popping the crown caps from cold bottles of bubbly. Welcome to 2Lads, the new shape of Old Mission. What is now arguably the edgiest endeavor in Northwest Michigan’s wine scene began with two lads, Chris Baldyga and Cornel Olivier, shouting across a rattling bottling line at Chateau Grand Traverse where they worked as “cellar rats” in the winter of 1999. The two connected through wine and rugby and became friends before Baldyga moved to Grand Rapids to work in retail wine shops and Olivier continued his training and became opening winemaker at Brys Estate. Raised among cabernet vines in his native South Africa, Olivier’s focus from day one was to produce high quality red wines in the sandy soils and erratic climate of Northern Michigan. “Cornel brought some his first bottlings from Brys down for me to taste and my first reaction was ‘holy crap,’ what’s happening in Traverse City?” Chris recalls as we sip the lads’ pinot noir Cuvée Beatrice on a patio overlooking East Bay. Putting $30 bottles of Northwest Michigan cabernet franc and merlot on his retail shelves next to wines from established regions like Napa Valley and watching them disappear in the hands of customers eager for something new led Baldyga and Olivier down a Bacchanalian rabbit hole that would lead to a hilltop cherry orchard replanted to thriving grape vines beside an ultra modern multimillion dollar gravity-fed winery and tasting room.

Construction began on the property in 2007 as Baldyga and Olivier worked with Traverse Architecture Group to manifest their vision of a facility that would embrace modernity and communicate their youthful dressed-down perspective on wine. “We were really young when we started—the whole project was designed to capture that youthful irreverence and let our disruptive attitude flow through the whole thing from top to bottom: bold labels, bold wines, bold building,” Baldyga says. “This all pointed to a modern, angular facility; we really like the juxtaposition of a modern glass and steel building next to a green farm.” While 2Lads’ artfully sexy temple of contemporary vino and their hip, matte black labels and matching swag yield a multigenerational buzz to visiting wine tourists, it’s the byproduct of the “green farm” that has undeniably fueled their success. The art and science of 2Lads’ grape growing and winemaking is under the jurisdiction of Cornel Olivier who attributes the wines’ purity and power almost wholly to the health of his vineyards. “These soils were almost dead when we found them,” Olivier recalls as we walk between vine rows lushly upholstered in green cover crops. “There haven’t been any pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers applied to these vineyards since they came online in 2008-2009; what we’ve done instead is work to build up the biomass so the vines are existing in a healthy environment. Instead of a sprayer we use a hoe and weed knife to give the soil all the nutrients it needs, the cover crops provide food and habitat for insects, which in turn keeps them out of the canopy.” Throughout the arc of the growing season, Cornel and his team work tirelessly to prune the vines and manage their yields for optimum phenolic ripeness and concentration. Once the fruit is picked and shuttled into the spotless crush pad, Olivier is just as meticulous, ensuring that yeast strains, maceration times and fermentation temperatures are tailored to the conditions of the grapes in any given year. “Winemaking every year is different,” Cornel admits, “at this point, ten years in, we’ve seen about all the possible chemical scenarios of the grapes and harvest and can react accordingly. It’s a matter of staying on top of processes in the cellar and making sure everything is meticulously clean and sanitized. Most of the problems that happen with winemaking can be traced back to dirty housekeeping.” Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

MyNorth.com

ONE OF A KIND. Open your next bottle of 2Lads with a Leland blue and Petoskey stone corkscrew. MyNorth.com/stonecorkscrew

EXPERIENCE OLD MISSION WINES Of course, 2Lads is just a taste. There are nine wineries on the Old Mission Wine Trail (wineriesofomp.com) and a 10th not on the trail, Bonobo. Book a tour bus—Grand Traverse Tours, Brew Bus, and Traverse City Wine and Beer Tours offer a variety of options—or plan on having a designated driver (you can treat them a bottle or two to enjoy at home).

While downstairs in the cellar stainless steel tanks house a living universe of yeast, skins and must as newly harvested pinot gris percolates in the first stages of fermentation, the upstairs tasting room has come to life with the clink of crystal and the excited echoes of 2Lads wine club members ricocheting off the polished cement floors as we join the fray. While 2Lads produces exquisite chardonnays, rieslings, pinot gris and rosés, the tasting room buzz, by design, is mostly geared toward red wines and bubbles. Tasting room staff, kitted out in hip branded T-shirts, pour bottle-fermented sparkling pinot grigio, inky reserve merlot and three distinct cuvées of pinot noir. The cross bar banter is friendly and unpretentious and residual sales seem brisk with bottles and cases constantly leaving the door, but Chris says this, the 2Lads experience, is the next platform for innovation. “Right now this works and it’s profitable but it’s also raucous and

loud and we want our guests to really be able to connect with the wines, to change the environment, slow down and have conversations about dirt and winemaking and wine and let the wines be tasted in their best light.” This best light is going to shine through a new system with seated tastings where tasting room staff curate a private, personal 20-40 minute sessions for small groups of guests with five to six wines and a food component. “We’re constantly asking ourselves ‘how can we change the conversation?” Baldyga says and, just like that, 2Lads takes a new shape. Traverse food and drinks editor, Tim Tebeau, writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com // Jesse Green shoots commercial, wedding and lifestyle photography from Detroit and Leelanau County. jessedavidgreen.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

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231.941.1448 • paulmaurer.com • Traverse City, Michigan

Volume 23

For the way you live Up North

•

Number 5

OCT/NOV2018

contents 16

61 features 14 Welcome to the 7th Annual Northern Home & Cottage Tour

departments 35 Tuscany Meets Traverse City 40 The Fun House

16 Sunrise Stunner 44 Shingle Style 22 The Heart of Town 50 The Wow Factor 27 Mohr Style

7 Editor’s Note Home Tour Time 8 Northern Style Ethnographic 11 Trends! Fireplaces

54 Up North Heaven 30 Good Bones, Great Style

61 Leland River Home Click on Live Here >Home Ideas

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘18

NHC3

Lorem ipsum

Why Buy It When You Can Build It

106 Depot St. - Bellaire, MI - 231.350.7440 | pleasantvalleycustomhomes.com

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF

EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR WEB EDITOR

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

JUNIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Deborah Wyatt Fellows

www.bldr.com www.bldr.com www.bldr.com

Traverse Traverse City City Lumber Lumber Traverse City 5700 US 5700Lumber US 31 31 SS 5700MI 31 S Grawn, MIUS 49637 Grawn, 49637 Grawn, MI 49637 231.943.7000 231.943.7000 231.943.7000

Emily Tyra Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr Rachel Watson Breanne Kerner

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Jim Driver Ann Gatrell Jill Hayes Chris Hunt Meg Lau Cyndi Ludka Drew Warner

MARKETING DIRECTOR

Rachel North

DIRECTOR OF AUDIENCE ENGAGEMENT AND BRAND STRATEGY

Joe Beyer

OFFICE MANAGER

Libby Stallman

CONTROLLER

Chris Ruszel

From the publisher of

Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 Fax: 231.941.8391 Email: x2k9g@traversemagazine.com

Subscriber Services To order or renew a subscription, order gift subscriptions, or change your address, visit us online at traversemagazine.com and click on “Subscriptions.” To contact us by phone, call 800.678.3416 between 9 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. EST.

Reprints Wright’s Reprints, 877.652.5295

Northern Home & Cottage is published as a supplement to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine 125 Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684 All rights reserved. Copyright 2018, Prism Publications Inc.

Your Your Source Source For: For: Cabinetry Cabinetry Decks Decks Houses/Garages Houses/Garages Floor Covering Floor Covering Pole Barns Pole Barns Windows & Doors Windows & Doors

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘18

NHC5

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MyNorth.com

editor’s note Crystal Lake Alpaca Farm & Boutique ite items from enc “Exquis hantin

g animals.”

sweaters, throws, mittens, socks, hats, stuffed animals, & much more!

Home Tour Time... and Why We Love Ethnographic Style In September we showcased eight stunning homes in the Petoskey area. This month, we focus on the Traverse City/Leelanau area with 10 homes you won’t want to miss. Included in our lineup: A shingle-style home on Glen Lake, a river home in downtown Leland, an empty-nesters downtown Traverse City dream house, an Old Mission beauty that overlooks East Bay, two 90s condos made over into cottage-glam and more. Trust me, this is a tour you do not want to miss. While you’re perusing this issue with its sneak-peek of the tour homes, don’t miss our Northern Style department with its curated layout of global home elements, all collected in Northern Michigan boutiques. The spread was inspired by an interview I had recently with interior designer Tom Stringer. Tom is a renowned Chicago-based designer who has summered his entire life at his family’s cottage compound on Mullett Lake north of Petoskey. He has also traveled extensively to exotic and far-flung places that include North Africa, Thailand, Fiji, to name just a few of the stamps on his passport. A number of Tom’s clients have summer homes in the Harbor Springs area and he has shown them how a culturally diverse narrative can be threaded through our Northern Michigan context with inspirational results. Tom’s book, An Adventurous Life, Global Interiors by Tom Stringer, is included on our Northern Style pages—and we point you to his web site so you can purchase a copy and launch your own style epiphany.

Sep 4 - Dec 29 : 11am - 4:30pm 4907 River Road, Frankfort • (231) 920-7085 CrystalLakeAlpacaBoutique.com

featured on

Sidock Group, Inc. is now throughout Michigan, providing Architecture and Engineering services to Residential, Commercial and Municipal clients.

Bradley J. Butcher, AIA bbutcher@sidockgroup.com 989.705.8400 sidockgroup.com Novi • Wyandotte • Lansing • Bay City • Detroit Muskegon • Gaylord • Sault Ste. Marie

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com. Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘18

NHC7

ETHNOGRAPHY

1. Faux Zebra Pillow: Chatham House Interior Design, Petoskey, 231.881.9290, chathamhouseinteriordesign.com | $385

PATTERNS + COLORS

2. Carved Elephant Stool: Lake Street Design Studio, Petoskey, 231.348.1824, lakestreetdesignstudio.com | $49

CURATED BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS AND GAIL SNABLE PHOTOS DAVID WEIDNER

3. A frican Basket: Lake Street Design Studio, Petoskey, 231.348.1824, lakestreetdesignstudio.com | $87 4. T urkish Mosaic Lamp: Northern Lights, Traverse City, 231.421.8751, mosaiclampsnyc.com | $135

MyNorth.com

10 5. Antique Teak Bowl: Chatham House Interior Design, Petoskey, 231.881.9290, chathamhouseinteriordesign.com $419 6. An Adventurous Life, Global Interiors By Tom Stringer: tomstringer.com | $60 7. Vintage Hand Embroidered Turkish Tablecloth (or pouf cover): Arabella, Glen Arbor, 231.645.7225, arabellaconcepts.com | $800

8. K azak Rug: (5-by-7-feet), Rugport, Petoskey, 231.881.9393, rugport.com | $1850 9. P ainting: Lake Street Design Studio, Petoskey, 231.348.1824, lakestreetdesignstudio.com | $225 10. Garnet Pomegranate: (Handmade in Turkey), Arabella, Glen Arbor, 231.645.7225, arabellaconcepts.com | $65 each

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;18

NHC 9

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trends!

WHAT’S HOT IN GAS FIREPLACES AND WOODSTOVES.

By Elizabeth Edwards

DAVINCI FIREPLACE

BLAZE KING

Who: Tim Boals, Team Member Ferguson’s Fireplaces and Stoves

Who: Jim McCall, co-owner of Source Julien 231.943.8190 // sourcejulien.com

231.946.2440 // fergusonfireplace.com

So wood ... does anyone heat with it anymore? Burning wood is a uniquely Northern Michigan opportunity and the manufacturers are all about meeting new standards in clean burning stoves set for 2020. Not only are the new wood burners clean and efficient. They are updated with new clean-line looks.

But gas seems to be on fire right now— pardon the pun. For those opting for the convenience and comfort of natural gas or propane fireplaces, the options are equally impressive. Gas fireplaces are so flexible people are opting for multiple units throughout the home to provide highly stylized custom zone heat in various parts of the home. One of the coolest innovations in fireplaces is the DaVinci Cool Touch. This fireplace provides impressive flames but remains cool to the touch. This makes the DaVinci ideal for public spaces like restaurants and business lobbies as the Cool Touch reduces liability risk. Not surprisingly, summer homeowners are choosing the DaVinci to provide them a gorgeous summer evening fireplace without the confounding heat in the warmer months.

Any innovations in wood stoves you’d like to share? Yes, we carry a company called Blaze King that manufactures their stoves in Walla Walla, Washington. The stoves use a catalyst-reburn technology. What that translates to is an automatic damper that can control the burn time of a load of wood for up to 40 hours. They are also very green—with low emissions. They meet and in most cases exceed the upcoming 2020 EPA standards. What’s hot in fireplaces? Gas fireplaces are getting sleek and modern looking. In 2015 the government mandated that glass-fronted gas fireplaces all have safety barrier screens to keep people from burning themselves when they touched the glass. The problem with a screen, however, is that it blocks the heat and part of the view. An Israeli company called Ortal came up with a double-glassed design that allows the glass front to stay cool while the unit still provides heat. It’s really a neat concept. Other companies are doing it now but Ortal started it.

More Trends!

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV '18

NHC 11

You won’t find them in ordinary kitchens. Or at ordinary stores. Sub-Zero, the preservation specialist. Wolf, the cooking specialist. You’ll find them only at your local kitchen specialist.

Advance Electric • 846 Carpenter Rd. • Gaylord, MI 49735 • 989-732-2485 • advancelectric.com

trends!

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Who: Tony Fifarek, Sales Manager Phillips Lifestyles and Phillips Home & Hearth 231.633.3728 // phillipslifestyles.com

You are lovin’ the new look in gas fireplaces: Yes, we are seeing a real uptick in gas fireplaces now that the economy is rebounding. They are coming out with some really exciting styles—linear and built into a wall like an aquarium. The best part is that instead of fake wood logs they have a range of exciting fire base options, including glass media, engineered driftwood logs, and even engineered rock formations.

Serving Northern Michigan Since 1952 955 South Airport Rd. W • Traverse City • 231-946-2440 FERGUSONFIREPLACE.COM

interior design services

They are styling! But how much heat do they put out? Most people are surprised at how much heat comes from these. If you want the flames to look good the fireplace needs to be from three- to six-feet wide. In some cases they can kick out 60,000 BTU’s—enough to accommodate 2500 square feet. Options like heat ducts can push all that heat into other areas. There are even kits to push the air above your television—if you want to mount it above the fireplace like most people do—so the heat doesn’t hurt the television.

PHOTO ABOVE: This unit is dressed up to impress! ML47 Linear Fireplace Copper Willowbrook Front with Natural River Rock and a Desert, Wave Speckled Panel

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Visit our Showroom at 212 River St. Elk Rapids 231-933-4321 www.cedarcreekinteriors.com

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV '18

NHC 13

Traverse Area Northern Home & Cottage Tour Saturday October 13, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Once again weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve assembled the two premier one-day home tours in Northern Michigan. Phase II, Northern Home & Cottage

We are so grateful to the homeowners who have so generously

Traverse Area Tour, is set for October 13, 2018. Join us to tour

opened their homes for this tour that benefits Child & Family

10 stunning homes in Leelanau, Traverse City and Old Mission

Services of Northwestern Michigan. Established in the 1930s, this

Peninsula. Tour highlights? We have several contemporary-chic

organization provides crucial services to the children and families

Glen Lake homes, a river home in downtown Leland, an empty-

of our region.

nesters downtown Traverse City dreamhouse, an Old Mission beauty that overlooks East Bay, two 90s condos made cottage-glam and more. This tour is very doable in a day, but it helps to plan your route ahead of time. When you buy your tickets online (before Thursday October

12), you'll have access to driving tips and last minute updates via email.

MyNorth.com

To find resources on our 2018 Northern Home & Cottage Tour homes, please go to MyNorth.com/2018tour. Tickets (along with the tour map and driving directions) are $23 in advance, $26 day of. To purchase tickets please go to MyNorthTickets.com. For more information: 800.836.0717.

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Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;18

NHC 15

TOUR HOME

MyNorth.com

LOCATION 9347 CENTER ROAD TRAVERSE CITY CONTRACTOR STEVE EVELEIGH NORTHWEST CARPENTRY 231.218.3061 NORTHWESTCARPENTRY.COM

sunrise stunner Text by Cara McDonald // Photos by Dave Speckman

Summertime in southern Ohio? Hot. The

house has classic cottage style elements—a

sculptural—richly stained four-inch walnut

sun shines pale through a thick soup of

wraparound porch, dormers, columns, con-

slabs that echo the wide-plank walnut

humidity, the locusts hum, the leaves hang

temporary beach composite wood siding in

hardwood floors.

limp waiting for a breeze. It’s enough to

a rich gray—with here and there bold state-

In the kitchen, custom Amish cabine-

make you get in the car and point it North.

ments like the peaked black metal roof. It’s

try from Wolverine Cabinet Company in

Cincinnati residents Bill and Cary

as stately as any vintage home, but with

Traverse City sets the backdrop for fun

Harrod have been doing just that for

a crisp modern appeal that is imminently

details like tongue-and-groove paneling

years. The empty nesters have long loved

livable.

and sparkling quartz surfaces.

East Bay’s sunrise views, so when an Old

Steve and his team made the lot eleva-

Pam worked with the homeowners to

Mission Peninsula lot facing the bay (with

tion work by creating a drive-under garage

pull the interior look together further,

frontage just across the road) came on

with a basement and extra living space

blending classic details like subway tile

the market, they knew it would be the

that includes an extra bedroom, bath, and

with distressed ironwork and Edison bulbs

right fit to build their dream home. But in

a storeroom.

for on-trend appeal.

order to capture those sun-on-the-water

The home is designed for main-floor

At roughly 2,800 square feet, the Harrods,

views, the home would need to be built

living, and a master and laundry share

haven is large enough to welcome their

into a hillside—a tricky build-and-design

the porch-wrapped level with the living/

college-aged son and any visitors, but small

feat. Enter homebuilder Steve Eveleigh

kitchen area, while the upstairs is home

enough to be cozy when they are there

of Northwest Carpentry and his design

to a loft and two bedrooms—“plus mighty

alone. “We build energy efficient homes,

team that included Jim Walters of Creative

killer bay views thanks to the elevation,”

so it’s a super efficient home,” notes Steve,

Home Design, Pam Sheridan of WaterLeaf

Steve says.

“but most of all, we wanted it to be com-

Design and, of course, the homeowners.

The interior gets a contemporary twist

The design process lasted about five

from details like a custom made open

months while the team worked out all the

stairway with steel and iron overlook-

details—but all that work has paid off. The

ing the great room. The steps are almost

fortable year round.” (Old) mission accomplished.

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘18

NHC 17

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Traverse City 231-943-1114

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;18

NHC 19

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Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;18

NHC 21

TOUR HOME

MyNorth.com

LOCATION 250 EAST TENTH STREET TRAVERSE CITY CONTRACTOR GARY MOTT G. MOTT BUILDERS 231.649.1838 GMOTTBUILDERS.COM

the heart of town Text by Cara McDonald // Photos by A. Marie Photography

Larry and Christine Flynn thought

she wanted by thinking about what I’d

1898 home, as were the foundation beams,

downsizing and moving from the outer

want to see in my own home,” says Gary.

which were cut to size and used as the

Traverse City limits to something snug

“It made the process actually a lot of fun.”

fireplace mantle. Gary’s favorite detail? The

near downtown would be easy. But bidding

Working together, the builder and his

slab walnut desk, made from local trees by

wars, scarcity of inventory, and the reali-

client created a 1550-square-foot, two

his favorite area sawmill that uses a circu-

ties of circa 1880s shotgun houses with

bedroom/two bath bungalow—a perfect

lar saw for unusual rough-sawn details. The

floor plans that no reno could fix started

everyday size for the empty nesters, but it

furnishings were selected from Art Sample

to sink in.

had to be roomy enough to welcome three

Furniture Store with the help of designer Patty Donohue.

Then one day she and her husband were

sons and their growing families. “It’s not

running on the TART trail near Oryana,

huge,” says Flynn, “but with the layout we

For Christine, the heart of the home

and peeled off to see a “for sale by owner”

can fit everybody in here and you don’t feel

is the deep and spacious—and classic

sign tacked in the yard just across from

crammed in.” The living area is central, and

bungalow—front porch, with two sitting

the community market. Sadly, the house,

a bedroom, the kitchen and an office all

areas and a wide and welcoming sidewalk

in pretty rough shape, was a tough salvage,

open onto it, negating the need for space-

leading to it (“We are the ‘come on up’

and in the end the Flynns decided to

wasting hallways.

kind of porch people,” she says.) Plumbing

rebuild something in its place, with the

Though the home is a bungalow, the

pipe runs along the top as a curtain rod,

guiding rule that it had to fit in to the exist-

interior design is updated in a rustic refined

and Flynn hung white curtains tied back

ing neighborhood.

style, with loads of custom details that

to define the porch and lend an air of coziness.

Christine thought it seemed easy—she

add texture. White shiplap on the entry

had a floor plan and layout she loved, and

and kitchen backsplash complements

The team stayed true to the Flynns origi-

had just found the perfect picture of an

the wide-plank gray oak flooring and all-

nal vision of new home with vintage

exterior for her dream home. But it took her

white kitchen. The countertops are a mix

sensibilities. Proof positive is that the

three tries to find the person to bring the

of white pearl granite on the island, and

neighbors sat up and took notice. “The

dream into the here and now. As soon as

a leathered gray-black pearl granite, done

number one compliment we hear is thank

she brought Gary Mott of G. Mott Builders

with an acid-etching treatment that gives

you, thank you, thank you for building a

into the mix, she knew she’d found her

the surface a soft, matte, more rustic feel.

house that fits right in. It looks like it could

partner for the project. “Our personal styles

The pantry door was salvaged (with a fresh

have always been here,” says Flynn.

are very similar, so I would just intuit what

coat of chalk paint) from the pre-existing

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘18

NHC 23

“Architecture should speak of its time and place, but yearn for timelessness.” Frank Gehry Photography by Beth Singer

LET’S DESIGN AND BUILD YOUR FOREVER HOME

Elk Rapids Northville 231.498.2500 248.515.4477 josephmoseyarchitecture.com

Design for those willing to dream.

REMODELING INTERIOR DESIGN KITCHENS/BATHS CUSTOM FABRICATION

B.C.D. INTERIORS DESIGN & DWELL

541 W. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, MI 49684 231.946.6882 WWW.BAYCABINETRY.COM 24

MyNorth.com

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;18

NHC 25

SERVICING THE “STRAITS OF MACKINAC” FOR 20 YEARS. Building family dreams, one custom home at a time.

REAL ESTATE MackinacProperties.com info@MackinacProperties.com

northernmichiganVR.com info@northernmichiganVR.com

We can make your dreams come true mobile: 231.342.4455 | fax: 231.933.7065 | calybrhomes.com

906.643.9242

Building homes is a craft. Building relationships is an art.

bccfamily.com • 231-439-1600 • Harbor Springs, MI

MyNorth.com

LOCATION 5421 LONE BEECH DRIVE TRAVERSE CITY CONTRACTOR CALYBR HOMES 231.342.4455 TRAVERSE CITY CALYBRHOMES.COM

mohr style Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Dave Speckman

This home by Brian and Erica Mohr of

more modern look. The floors are oak with

the big deck, is an understatedly dramatic

Calybr Homes was built for Calbyr project

a warm, natural-weathered finish. The

medley of black, gray and white tones.

manager, Matt Barr and his wife Rhiannon.

couple transformed an antique black-metal

A luxurious soaking tub is paired with

The couple wanted a home that combined

former post office station into a cubby-

a custom-shower outfitted with a heated

rustic sensibilities with clean lines and the

filled desk for a truly unique and very

mirror to eliminate fogging—perfect for

Mohrs delivered.

functional accent piece.

shaving in the shower.

A deck off the living area is open on

A fabulous lower-level wet bar and adja-

one side and screened on the other—a

cent exercise room round out this shining

ried stone, barnwood walls flanking the

space that revolves around an outdoor

example of everything a family home can

fireplace and a barnwood tray ceiling. The

fireplace that matches the indoor fireplace.

be.

barnwood is whitewashed for a lighter,

The master suite, which offers access to

OCT | NOV ‘18

NHC 27

idence

Northern Home & Cottage

raverse City, MI 49685

DESIGN PRODUCTIONS

N ORRIS

Cell: 231.642.7881 - caleb@norrisdesignpro.com - www.norrisdesignpro.com

The main floor spells out the theme with a rustic fireplace faced in rugged quar-

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Fine cabinetry For your home Jill Brecheisen, Designer • kitchensbydesignpetoskey.com 214 Petoskey St. • 231.347.8400 • Downtown Petoskey

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MYNORTHTICKETS.COM 800.836.0717 125 PARK STREET TRAVERSE CITY, MI 49684

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Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;18

NHC 29

TOUR HOME

MyNorth.com

LOCATION 1502 WAYNE STREET TRAVERSE CITY CONTRACTOR NORTHWOOD KITCHENS TRAVERSE CITY 231.941.1470 NORTHWOODKITCHENS.COM

good bones, great style Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Dave Speckman

Sara Tucker purchased this home,

knew that all those organic elements would

and in came a generous island with

tucked away at the top of Traverse City’s

cohabit harmoniously with her fondness

bamboo cabinetry, a quartz countertop

Wayne Hill neighborhood, about a year ago.

for Asian design.

with a waterfall side and walnut counter-

Built in 1952, the house possessed plenty of

To polish the diamond-in-the-rough

top inset that doubles as a casual-meal spot

the drawbacks from that era’s design—the

she’d purchased, Sara turned to the able

and serving space. Bamboo cabinetry and

most blatant being a tiny kitchen largely

help of Laura Brudzinski at Northwood

quartz countertops are carried through the

cut off from the living area and blocked

Kitchens. Working closely with Sara,

perimeter where the backsplash is a combi-

from the horizon-view of Grand Traverse

Laura came up with a plan to remove the

nation of grass-colored tumbled travertine

Bay out the living room windows.

drop ceiling in the kitchen and widen the

tile and glass-look-alike ceramic tile that speak to this Asian-accented room.

That said, the home is also blessed with

entrance into the living room—creating

some of the charms of late mid-century

a more modern connection to the living

There are other brilliant touches in this

modern architecture including natural

area. She also altered the original window

home that tourgoers will find inspira-

touches like pine beams, pine floors, a sky-

pattern to make space for much-needed

tional—especially for anyone looking to

light in the bathroom’s cathedral ceiling,

countertop, all without losing the gorgeous

renovate an older home.

and a site-setting that spills down the

tree-filled view out the window.

wooded hillside like a waterfall—making

Up came the old linoleum floor and

the home feel a bit like a tree house. Sara

down went cork. Out went the tiny island

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘18

NHC 31

Reflect Your Own Personal Style

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Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;18

NHC 33

Prep your home for the change of Seasons

Dining Rooms, Buffets, Barstools, and much more…

your

Orchestrating Vision

607 Randolph Street l Suite 102 l Traverse City, MI 231.642.5085 l HomeWorksInteriors.store Mon-Fri 10am-5:30 pm l Sat 10:00 am- 3:00 pm l Sun Closed

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Northern Michigan’s only design firm creating a true “one stop shopping” experience for your new construction or remodel project. Our highly-skilled design team streamline every detail from flooring products to ceiling treatments. Our in-house project management team will coordinate the industry-leading installation crews on all materials you select to create a seamless transition between design concept and project completion .

www.KitchenChoreography.net 420 South Division Street, Traverse City

231.932.9700 Fabrication, Fabrication, service service & & design design ll Traverse Traverse City City ll 231.929.2848 231.929.2848 ll stratusmarble.com stratusmarble.com

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LOCATION 139 UPTOWN COURT TRAVERSE CITY CONTRACTOR KITCHEN CHOREOGRAPHY TRAVERSE CITY 231.932.9700 KITCHENCHOREOGRAPHY.NET

tuscany meets traverse city Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Jason Hulet

This riverfront condominium, completely

the home, including buttercream and

in the condo, was brought in through the

customized by Kitchen Choreography, is

alder-glazed cabinetry in the kitchen and

neighboring condo wall (which was still

proof that you don’t have to make life-

a cranberry-red hutch in the dining room.

under construction) so it could be installed

style sacrifices to live in the downtown

The alder is repeated in a wet bar that

flawlessly and in one piece.

area. Angela Goodall, co-owner and lead

houses Frank’s collection of notewor-

The upstairs whole-floor master suite is

designer at Kitchen Choreography, first

thy libations. A full, custom walnut wine

another don’t-miss. Here the theme is

met the Londys in 2008 when they were

cellar adjacent to it showcases Kelly’s love

classic black and white, with a pop of red—

looking to purchase and renovate a condo

of wine.

including a red-painted claw foot tub.

in Manistee. That purchase didn’t work

Brick tiles, compass inlays and tin ceil-

A small woodstove tucked into a cozy nook

out, but some 10 years later found the

ings are among the must-see details in

is the perfect spot for enjoying coffee and a

homeowner-design team working together

this home. The wood flooring, created by

book on cold winter mornings. Frank plans

on this downtown Traverse City project.

Heritage Wood Floors, is 5-inch planked

to tend his bees on the downtown rooftop

The Londys took their design inspiration

oak with a wire-brushed treatment to give

deck—a deck that also offers a gorgeous

from the timelessly sophisticated architec-

texture to the surface and depth to the

view of the Boardman River and the his-

ture and interiors of ancient Europe. To

finish. The island Fusion quartzite coun-

toric Sixth Street neighborhood.

that end, warm tones are used throughout

tertop, one of the prize design elements

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘18

NHC 35

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Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;18

NHC 37

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Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;18

NHC 39

TOUR HOME

MyNorth.com

LOCATION 6866 WEST MACFARLANE ROAD GLEN ARBOR CONTRACTOR ELIZABETH JERORE HOME CABINETRY & INTERIORS 231.947.7040 HOMECABINETRYANDINTERIORS.COM

the fun house Text by Cara McDonald // Photos by Dave Speckman

The Quigleys loved their Glen Lake log

handle a playful, mid-century vibe. Working

New paint and flooring throughout

cabin—so much, in fact, that they kept their

from mood boards, Liz was able to direct

freshened the whole cottage, and the bath-

eye on the place next door, a circa-1940

the project remotely while the homeown-

rooms got a new lease on life with dark

former lodge building from a long-gone

ers were at home in Brighton, Michigan.

gray large-format tile and fun mixed-glass

cabin resort. They thought it might make a

First things first, the exterior needed

accents. There aren’t any light fixtures

sweet family compound for all their visitors

siding replaced and larger casing around

in the baths—instead, Liz used mirrors

and children, as well as a potential vacation

windows to open things up. A fresh coat of

with backlit LED lighting that, she admits,

rental. “It was a bit of a defensive buy,” says

“Sea Serpent,” a dark charcoal-navy, pro-

creates a soft halo of light that makes

owner Apple Quigley, in part to ensure the

vides a crisp contrast to the limey green

everyone look pretty, even with beach hair.

lakefront stayed cottage-y, “and that no

doors added for a touch of fun. A new

The bedrooms benefitted from playful

one came along to tear it down and build a

garage went in and, to break up the monot-

textiles to riff on the palette, and a large

behemoth in its place.”

ony of a “big slab of white,” she added

“what the heck is this?” space, part of an

frosted windows.

old garage at one time, got turned into a

When at last it went on the market, they asked their designer and project manager,

Inside, the task was to lighten everything

bunk room with built-in beds (“we see a lot

Liz Jerore of At Home Cabinetry & Interiors,

up. “When you walk in the house you just

of these lately,” adds Liz), which have cute

to do a walk-through to see what it would

see blue Glen Lake, you walk right in to

touches like pullout stairs with storage and

take to remodel the 3,000-square-foot ram-

the view,” says Apple. “We wanted it light,

locally made railings.

bling building.

a modern cottage feel.” Liz opted to keep

The cottage now sleeps 12, and a down-

“It was pretty dated, with a lot of deferred

wainscoting and oak that had been “nice in

stairs beach-level kitchenette adjacent to

maintenance...” says Liz, pausing, then

its day.” “Rather than rip it out,” she says,

a family room and bedroom makes things

blurting: “Okay, it was quite a challenge!”

“I said ‘let’s just paint it and let it be the

comfy for multi-generational groups and

Mold. Mothballs. Very dark 1970s paneled

texture in the house.’ We painted out every

families.

walls. Dead animals in the ceilings. But the

thing that made sense, and replaced what

Quigleys had it firmly in mind to restore it.

was just... yucky.”

Apple, whose next-door cabin is more traditional, is thrilled with the result. “It’s

Liz’s agenda? A total refresh without

Every room has a beautiful something-

more of a fun house,” she says. “Not some-

reinventing the wheel. “I felt like going a

special about it, whether it’s the view, the

thing I’d do at home, but I love having

little retro with it,” Apple says. Liz agreed

size of the room, or special custom fea-

something like this to retreat to, with a

the house, with its low rooflines, could

tures, Liz says.

little ‘Wow’ feel.”

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘18

NHC 41

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Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;18

NHC 43

TOUR HOME

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LOCATION 5769 NORTHWOOD DRIVE GLEN ARBOR CONTRACTOR RENDER CONSTRUCTION 231.943.1654 RENDERCONSTRUCTION.COM

shingle style Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Beth Singer

This handsome shingle-style home

Mosey Architecture and Eric Render

window and for the homeowners collection

hearkens to New England’s coastal vernac-

Construction. Both men, who have worked

of colorful art.

ular—a style the homeowners grew fond of

together on a number of projects (and with

The marble facade on the fireplace

after years summering on Block Island in

Nicole on several), have reputations for

echoes the open all-white kitchen across

Providence, Rhode Island when they lived

doing meticulous work.

the living and dining area from it. Designed

in the east. Eventually, they moved back

Another plus: Joseph is particularly tal-

by Liz Firebaugh of Signature Kitchens,

to Michigan and decided to settle their

ented at designing period architecture, so

the kitchen is both classical and functional

second-home roots in Glen Arbor, where

he knew exactly what the homeowners

with its white cabinetry, custom hood,

the wife spent her childhood summers and

were imagining when they described the

White Princess quartz countertops and an

where her parents have a summer home.

style of home they’d like. So much so, in

island generous enough to allow multiple

The couple purchased a sweet but

fact, that he got the design right on the

people to gather around it. Details include

slightly worn ranch-style home on Glen

first draft. As the homeowner describes

an apron sink, polished nickel faucets and

Lake and was content to settle into it for

it: “I told him, I really want a house that

48-inch Thermador Pro Harmony Range.

a bit before they decided how they would

echoes New England shingle style. The first

No doubt, serenity is the theme in this

update it. The straight-line wind that tore

drawing he made was the one we have

home—but tourgoers will also be enam-

through Glen Arbor in the summer of 2015

stayed with. He basically didn’t have to

ored with fun, bold touches that include a

wreaking destruction in its path, however,

tweak or change it after that.”

television room with its walls and molding

made their decision for them. The storm

The construction went seamlessly with

all painted a dark blue-gray. Two different

did enough destruction that the homeown-

Eric and Nicole simplifying the design

floral wallpaper patterns, one in a down-

ers realized their only choice was to take

decisions for the busy homeowners every

stairs powder room and the other in an

down the old structure and build again.

step of the way. The end result is a com-

upstairs bedroom, add a burst of feminine

For architect and builder recommenda-

fortable farmhouse-feel imbued with an

charm to the home. Another powder room

tions, the homeowners asked their friend,

elegant casualness. Pale-stained white

is decorated with carved birds.

Nicole Withers of Jones-Keena & Co., a

oak floors, soothing sage-gray wall colors,

This classic, timeless home so filled with

Bloomfield, Michigan-based interior design

white molding and a white v-groove/cof-

artistic touches is one not to miss on

firm with a number of Up North clients.

fered ceiling create a peaceful backdrop

the tour.

Nicole recommended the team of Joseph

for the stunning Glen Lake view out the

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘18

NHC 45

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Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘18

NHC 49

TOUR HOME

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LOCATION 14 VANTAGE POINTE THE HOMESTEAD RESORT GLEN ARBOR CONTRACTOR WILL KLEEHAMMER KLEEHAMMER CONSTRUCTION, LLC 231.218.9675 KLEECON.COM

the wow factor Text by Patty LaNoue Stearns

Everyone who walks inside this condo does a double-take. “‘Wow’ is the first utterance,” says the wife. The two-story view is a super stunner:

cottage,” says Van Nort, who also trans-

say they did everything by phone, photos,

formed the bland, outdated bathrooms

email and U.S. Mail. After renting condos at

with new vanities, fixtures and elegant

The Homestead for 30 years, they decided

wallpapers.

on this three-level, 3,000-square-foot space,

North and South Manitou Islands, Sleeping

“The master bath was all vanilla. There

Bear Point, and in the middle, the azure

was a square tub and a pet-washing

Asked about their favorite parts of the

blue of Sleeping Bear Bay.

station.” Now there’s a shower with a

redesign of what they refer to as their

space-saving glass barn door, beautiful tile

cond-age (condo + cottage), the wife picks

“We spend all day watching the weather roll in,” says her husband.

which fulfilled all their dreams.

on the floors and walls that looks like linen,

the 37-inch-high marble-patterned Corian

Their circa-1987 condo at The Homestead

a blue glass border of subway tile inside the

counters, because she and her husband are

came fully furnished and very out of date.

shower, and navy-and-white wallpaper to

both tall. His faves are the 2.5-car garage

They didn’t need to tear down walls, but the

complete the theme.

and the charming courtyard with Japanese

electrical needed a complete overhaul and they wanted a rich nautical theme.

Another striking part of the redo is the

maple and hydrangeas. Both adore all

formerly barren fireplace, now adorned

the great people they’ve met since they moved in.

That’s exactly what Will Kleehammer,

with handmade blue-and-white tiles, a

the general contractor, and Karen Van

white wood surround and mantel and stun-

Nort, their designer, delivered, with tongue-

ning sconces above. Tongue-and-groove

and-groove ceilings, board-and-batten

paneling goes partway up the two-story

wainscoting, built-in cabinetry and a palate

wall, and deep blue walls on either side

of crisp blues and whites throughout. Van

frame the expanse.

Nort also incorporated the wife’s East

“We started the renovation in October of

Coast family’s antiques and memorabilia

2016 and finished in March of 2017,” says

from three generations into her design.

the husband. “There wasn’t a hiccup. We

“They moved into a very contemporary condo and wanted a coastal summer

And that view isn’t too shabby, either.

thoroughly enjoyed the process.” The couple, who live in the Detroit area,

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘18

NHC 51

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Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;18

NHC 53

TOUR HOME 54

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LOCATION 5500 OVERBROOK ROAD SOUTH BEACH #59 THE HOMESTEAD RESORT GLEN ARBOR CONTRACTOR WILL KLEEHAMMER KLEEHAMMER CONSTRUCTION, LLC 231.218.9675 KLEECON.COM

up north heaven Text by Patty LaNoue Stearns

Carl and Virginia McCoy spent two

every room including the exterior deck, and

is Pratt and Larson tile made in Portland,

weeks in Glen Arbor in 2011 and they

appliances that they adore, such as their

Oregon, and whose custom doors are from

couldn’t get it out of their minds. The

new Kitchen Aid range with glass cooktop

Source Julien in Traverse City. “The hearth

Grosse Pointe Woods couple decided they

and many-function burners, and the oven

is made of a solid piece of quartz, which is

wanted a vacation condo with a waterfront

with a baking drawer for slow-cooking

the same as the countertops in the kitchen,”

view, so in December 2014 they bought a

as well.

says Carl. “It took six men to carry it in!”

1,200-square-foot, 2-bedroom, 2-bath 1980s

“We love to cook and entertain,” says

The master bath also has great creature

condo at The Homestead’s South Beach

Carl. Virginia roundly agrees: “Our love of

features: A heated floor and an electric

Club.

food and wine drove our renovation. We

Mr. Steam towel bar that allows for pro-

The first thing they did was hire a struc-

wanted to cook together and center our

gramming the heat. “If you would shower

tural engineer, to see if the tight, enclosed

entertaining around food and wine. We

routinely at 6 a.m. you can program it to

kitchen’s walls could be removed so the

even planned in a wine refrigerator.”

come on at 5 so that your towels are toasty

living room, dining room and kitchen could

Carl says the room that the wine cooler

warm when you get out of the shower. It is

open up and take in the breathtaking views

inhabits is shared with the stacked laundry

great in winter up here and in the humid

and sunsets over Lake Michigan. The engi-

appliances. “It’s really sweet, like the inte-

summer as well,” Carl explains.

neer said yes.

rior of a boat—everything fits into a small

The McCoys now savor all that the area

space with crown molding, cabinetry and

has to offer—streaming Interlochen Public

pantry.”

Radio on their sound system, shopping

They also hired General Contractor Will Kleehammer to do the demo and rebuild. They also asked their longtime interior

The couple, who just celebrated their

for fresh produce at the farmers’ markets,

designer, Margo Bishop of St. Clair Shores,

40th anniversary, rave about the trans-

sipping all the earthly delights from the

to do the rest.

formation of the entire condo, whose

many local wineries.

A year later, after ripping out the entire

Benjamin Moore paint hues echo the

“It’s hard to rip ourselves from the water-

interior and putting it back together again

colors of the lake, the dunes and the pines.

front,” says Carl, “but we try to support all

with a more elegant Craftsman feel and

Coincidentally, the new shade in their

of the local businesses.’’

with views beyond compare, it was party

master bedroom is called South Beach, the

time. There’s brand-new everything here,

same name as their condo association.

including crown molding, LED lighting,

The McCoys can curl up in front of

air conditioning, a Sonos sound system in

the fireplace, whose handsome surround

Clearly, they’ve found their Nirvana, right here in Northern Michigan.

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘18

NHC 55

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Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;18

NHC 57

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Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;18

NHC 59

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2636 Garfield Road N Suite 33 · Traverse City, MI 49686 www.silverwoodenterprises.com · 231.929.2445

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Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;18

NHC 61

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Tour our design showrooms The most extensive collection of Northern Michigan style When you’re craving touchable inspiration, grab your keys, grab your ideas and tour our gorgeous design showrooms. Open our doors, then open our windows, cabinets and appliances.

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BUILDING CENTERS & DESIGN SHOWROOMS PETOSKEY | HARBOR SPRINGS | GAYLORD | TRAVERSE CITY |

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LOCATION 2333 SOUTH PENWOOD TRAIL LELAND CONTRACTOR J PETERSON HOMES JOELPETERSONHOMES.COM 231.994.2168

leland river house Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Dave Speckman

As one of the region’s preeminent build-

this builder’s ability to source the coolest

wood but won’t suffer nicks and scratches.

ers, Joel Peterson could have built about

products) the home feels as though it has

Four bedrooms and a game room above the

any style of home one could imagine on

graced this river-side property for decades.

garage round out the home.

his lot on the Leland River—a parcel that

White oak floors, recycled barn beams

The relaxed contemporary interior with

is enviably within walking distance of

and a white oak fireplace mantel parlay

its muted-palette is by Missy Walters of

Leland’s charming downtown, beaches and

that last century-feel into the interior. But

Studio M Interiors based in Grand Rapids.

historic Fishtown. Fortunately for those of

underneath its timeless aura is an easy-

The exterior landscaping is as meticulously

us who are passionate about Leland’s river-

to-care for, completely modern home. The

thought out as is the home’s interior. The

scape, Joel and his wife, Kris, built a home

open floor plan that is flooded with light

Petersons took the extra effort to get a DEQ

that is, quite simply, perfect for its site.

and views of the river from two banks

permit for a permanent dock—which is

The couple worked with the Grand

of french door/window systems make the

more handsome and will hold up better

Rapids-based firm J Visser Design on the

not-so-big home feel airy and generous. The

than a temporary one. And if you have ever

style they call California rustic—which it

small but extremely efficient open kitchen

dreamed of having gas piped right to your

indeed is. But with the home’s basic cabin/

exudes style and function with a Wolf

outdoor firepit and outdoor lanterns, this is

farmhouse design, its shake-sided exterior,

range, Sub-Zero refrigerator and a Cambria

where you will see that efficient and dra-

and its sage trim, sage shutters and even

Quartz topped island with waterfall sides.

matic touch in 3-D.

sage window casings/mullions (thanks to

Modern melamine cabinetry looks like

Northern Home & Cottage

OCT | NOV ‘18

NHC 63

MyNorth.com

10262 SW Torch Lake Dr. - Rapid City, MI 49676 Draper.Construction@yahoo.com | 231.322.3015

AaronDraperConstruction.com

Quality Attention to every detail

Dining RESTAURANT GUIDE | LOCAL FOODIE | DRINKS

Fresh Bites (and Fresh Air) Chili for Game Day Reds for Fall

TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

Color Tour

EATS

DAVE WEIDNER

(AND HIKES)

Torch Lake Café’s steeple looks south toward a shoreline lit up in fiery fall color. In the kitchen, flames lick up from cast iron grill grates to char juicy burger patties for proprietary creations like the TLC Burger stacked with thick cut Plath’s bacon, sautéed mushrooms and onions. Read on this month as we seek tasty grub proximate to some of the North’s prime autumn walkabouts.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

LOCAL TICKETS ONE PLACE 10/4-13

MAMMA MIA!

Old Town Playhouse

WOMEN’S WINE DOWN 2018

10/11

Grand Hotel, Mackinac Island

10/12-13

DRUMMOND ISLAND FALL FESTIVAL Drummond Island Township Hall

10/12-20

“URINETOWN” THE MUSICAL

Traverse City West Senior High School

10/18

FRESH COAST FILM FESTIVAL

11/3-4 & 11/10-11

TOAST THE SEASON

Marquette, Michigan

Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail

MYNORTHTICKETS.COM // 800.836.0717 // 125 PARK STREET // TRAVERSE CITY MyNorth is home of MyNorthTickets and Traverse Magazine

color tour | dining PERCH SANDWICH FROM TORCH LAKE CAFE

1 2

TORCH LAKE CAFE 4990 US-31 NORTH, CENTRAL LAKE | 231.599.1111

Eastport’s landmark 19th century church reborn as a bustling roadhouse by owners Jim Hettinger and Leanna Collins channels a retro resort vibe with nightly live music performed by Collins’ Deep Blue Boys Band and a rotating schedule of visiting folk, jazz, rock and big band acts. TLC’s menu is driven by classic roadhouse Americana with burly halfpound burgers, a crispy perch sandwich, steaks and pizzas with housemade San Marzano marinara. The bar, inset with a bathymetric relief map of Torch Lake, slings a selection of local craft beers and throwback cocktails like an ice-cream-spiked Raspberry Hummer. » HIKE: GLACIAL HILLS PATHWAY AND NATURAL AREA Burn off your TLC Burger hoofing it under blazing maple canopies on the 30-mile trail network at Glacial Hills just outside Bellaire. Traversing 12 distinct habitat zones, visitors can trek forth from three well-signed trailheads on the 765-acre property. GLACIALHILLSTRAILS.ORG SAM'S GRACES 339 STATE STREET, HARBOR SPRINGS | 231.242.1230

Divert to this Harbor Springs micro eatery for crisp-edged Napolitanostyle pizzas piled with Mitten-raised meats and locally grown produce then slid into a wood-fired inferno. » HIKE: OFFIELD NATURE PRESERVE The rolling hardwood hillsides north of Harbor Springs are a primo spot to gawk at autumn glory. The Offield Preserve’s 390 acres offer four miles of interconnected trails tracing open meadows and mixed forest.

DAVE WEIDNER

LANDTRUST.ORG

BARRELBACK 04069 M-75, WALLOON LAKE | 231.535.6000

A 180-degree eyeful of aquamarine water accents the panorama of Walloon Lake shoreline painted in red, orange and gold. Soak it up with a crispy whitefish sandwich and a cold pint of pale ale. » HIKE: DEAD MAN’S HILL Skitter down the gravel road connecting US-131 to the Jordan River Pathway where a 3.1-mile up-and-down day hike through dense woods rewards you with an Instagram-worthy overlook of the Jordan Valley that is perhaps the North’s best autumn vista. ANTRIMCOUNTY.ORG JOLLY PUMPKIN 13512 PENINSULA DRIVE, TRAVERSE CITY | 231.223.4333

Aprés-hike, you deserve to sit among tall pines and peeks of Bowers Harbor and destroy a cider-braised pork shank with cheddar grits or a crispy two-handed falafel burger. The perfect foil, of course, is a bottleconditioned sour beer like the seasonally relevant La Roja. » HIKE: OLD MISSION POINT PARK Strike out from Lighthouse Park on a five-mile loop that winds past orchards and through old forest, affording views of both East and West Grand Traverse Bays surrounded by miles of Lake Michigan coast lit up in fall splendor. MICHIGANTRAILMAPS.COM

Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey.

PIZZA FROM SAM'S GRACES

dining@traversemagazine.com. Dave Weidner is a freelance photographer based in Traverse City. dweidnerphoto@gmail.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

NOW SERVING we hope you enjoy what our local farmers, fishermen and artisans have produced, our culinary and brewery teams prepare, and our servers bring to your table.

AFTER SEVEN DECADES, WE KNOW ALASKA LIKE NO ONE ELSE. From the grandeur of Denali National Park to pristine glaciers and historic frontier towns, there’s no better way to experience Alaska than on a Holland America Line cruise or Land+Sea Journey. On board you’ll enjoy classic style, attentive service, and fine dining. Whether you’re drawn to The Great Land by its breathtaking wilderness or its colorful history, the best way to really see Alaska is with Holland American Line.

13512 peninsula drive • old mission peninsula 231.223.4222 • missiontable.net

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT - THE TRAVEL AUTHORITY

116 Cass St | Traverse City, MI | 49684 | 231.947.0880 | TraverseCity@thetravelauthority.com

wedding

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local table | dining

PUMPKIN CHILI Game day calls for a big, bubbling pot of chili. Pumpkin can be a surprise ingredient that offers up creamy, autumnal undertones— and packs your chili with nutrition. Kick it up even more by using natural, Northern Michigan-raised ground beef—whether the Lions are feelin’ it or not, your chili wins! —E.E. 1 1 1 2 2 1 4 1 1

medium onion, peeled and diced pound lean ground beef tablespoon olive oil 15-ounce cans cannelloni beans, undrained 16-ounce cans of diced tomatoes, undrained cup pumpkin, fresh-baked and pureed (or canned) ounce can chopped green chilis tablespoon cumin tablespoon chili pepper

1 ½

teaspoon unsweetened chocolate powder teaspoon cinnamon Salt to taste Pepitas for garnish Cilantro for garnish

In a Dutch oven or large soup pot saute the beef and onions in the olive oil. Stir in the remaining ingredients and simmer covered for at least an hour, stirring occasionally. Garnish each bowl with chopped cilantro and pepitas.

GOOD INGREDIENTS Brake for a pumpkin at the nearest farm stand. Bake it as you would an acorn squash. When the flesh is soft, scoop it out of the shell and puree. Omena Organics canned pumpkin is the product of a three-generation Leelanau County farm family. Find it at a number of Northern Michigan grocery stores or purchase it online at OMENAORGANICS.COM .

NORTHERN MICHIGAN-RAISED BEEF Gallagher’s Farm Market and Bakery 7237 E Traverse Highway, Traverse City, 231.421.5199, GALLAGHERSFARMMARKETTC.COM

Cottonwood Springs Farm 6192 S French Road, Cedar, 231.228.6578, COTTONWOODSPRINGFARM.COM

Bargy Farms 2946 US 31 South, Kewadin, 231.264.5190 Birgy’s Farm 1723 Birgy Road, Fife Lake, 231.879.3949, BIRGYSFARM.COM Bufka Brothers Farm 575 East Valley Road, Maple City, 231.228.7884

DAVE WEIDNER

Conant’s Maplehurst Farms 3904 M 88 North, Central Lake, 231.544.6664 Shetler Family Dairy & Farm Store 5436 Tyler Road SE, Kalkaska, 231.258.8216, SHETLERMILK.COM

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

M VE with the ONE that makes it easy

Restaurant Guide

BIG PLATTE LAKE

399 RiveR St. • ManiStee, Mi 49660 RaMSdellinn.coM • 231.398.7901 t.J.’S Pub: 231.398.9174

TOY HARBOR 20% OFF SALE

$275,000 - 3 BR / 1.5 BA - 1274 SF Platte Lake Access - Huge Garage Kathy Neveu 231-342-0921 MLS# 1850606

BLD: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner BAR: Alcohol served. $: Entrées under $10 $$: $10–20 $$$: Above $20 Water view

CRU WINE BAR

$525,000 - Turn Key Restaurant/Bar Remodeled in 2012 - Frankfort Suzanne Voltz 231-651-9711 MLS# 1846478

OCTOBER 5-14

Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants Go to MyNorth.com/restaurants

MON-THURS & SAT 10AM-5:30PM FRI 10AM-8PM • SUN 11AM-4PM

EMMET AND NORTH Mackinac Island

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NORTH LAKE LEEANAU FRONTAGE $589,000 - 1.2 acres of woods 246' of level hard sandy bottom - Rustic John Watkins 231-620-4284 MLS# 1851586

Pellston Harbor Springs Petoskey Bay Harbor

Gaylord

Frankfort

Manistee

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FINE ART • JEWLERY UNIQUE GIFTS FUNCTIONAL ART

302 E. Lake St. Petoskey 231-881-4745 somebodysgallery.com 70

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$829,000 - 3 acre estate sized parcel Views of North and South Manitou Islands John Watkins 231-620-4284 MLS# 1847828 57 N Michigan Ave, Beulah 113 N. Main St., Leland

RealEstateOne.com

PETOSKEY/HARBOR SPRINGS/ Traverse City CROSS VILLAGE/PELLSTON/ BAY HARBOR/MACKINAC ISLAND

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY,

231.753.2221

Cadillac

The Bistro Saucer-sized homemade pancakes, comfort food. BL • $ 1900 US 31., PETOSKEY, 231.347.5583 Chandler’s Art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981 City Park Grill Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101

restaurant guide | dining CHARLEVOIX/ANTRIM/OTSEGO/ CRAWFORD/KALKASKA Cormack’s Deli Fabulous sandwiches, soups and bbq, open Mon.-Fri. 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. BL • $ 2569 CHARLEVOIX AVE.,

Mackinaw City

PETOSKEY, 231.347.7570

JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

Duffy’s Garage and Grille Pasta, burgers, inventive pizzas. LD • BAR • $$ 317 E LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3663

new

Charlevoix

Scovie’s Gourmet Deli & Bake Shop Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistrostyle comfort food. LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX,

Petoskey Boyne City East Jordan

Ellsworth

Huron Street Pub & Grill Classic pub food. LD BAR $-$$

Bellaire

7304 MAIN ST, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8255

231.237.7827

Gaylord

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel.

Elk Rapids

Smokey Jose’s Water-side restaurant where BBQ and bourbon meet tacos & tequila. LD BAR $-$$ 7263 MAIN STREET

MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0466

Frankfort

Traverse City

Kalkaska Grayling

LD • BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY,

231.439.9250

Manistee

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D •

Cadillac

BAR • $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR •

$-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR

ELK RAPIDS

BELLAIRE/BOYNE/WALLOON

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. LD • BAR

SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

$-$$$ 04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. D, SUN. BRUNCH • BAR • $$-

Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge— Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern—American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD •

$$$ 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY, 877.442.6464

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321

The Paper Station Fresh, relaxed and inventive foods. BLD • $ 145 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4546

Pierson's Grille & Spirits Ribs, whitefish, pizza, burgers and other staples of life. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 130 STATE ST., HAR-

BOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2967

new Pour Public House

Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL ST.,

PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771 Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD •

BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY,

231.582.0049

Gaylord

Empire Frankfort

Suttons Bay Glen Arbor Cedar Traverse City

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD • BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE,

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and composed salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E.

231.437.3612

INN AT BAY HARBOR RENAISSANCE LAKE MICHIGAN GOLF RESORT, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

Northport Leland

CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

Vintage Chophouse/Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$

Mackinaw

Petoskey

The Pelican’s Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads homemade desserts. D BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY

CHARLEVOIX/CENTRAL LAKE/ ELLSWORTH/EAST JORDAN

SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231. 264.6062

102 SOUTH BRIDGE LANE, BELLAIRE, 231.533.6262

Manistee

Cadillac

Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

231.256.9081

The Cantina Authentic Mexican in Van Pelt Alley behind Bridge Street. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 VAN PELT PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. LD • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD •

BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

Kelsey B’s Lakeside Food & Spirits Dine on burgers, steaks and fish and soak up the Lake Charlevoix views. LD • BAR • $-$$ 230 FERRY AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2960

LEELANAU COUNTY

The Bluebird Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the offseason. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND,

231.526.6201

Villa Ristorante Italiano Authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and hand-rolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887

Siren Hall Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, fresh-off-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 151

Moka A fireplace in, a rustic-modern patio out, plus Italian coffees, irresistible sandwiches and baked creations. BLD • $

Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $

SPRINGS, 231.242.4777

LEELANAU

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800

231.535.2999

Vernales Restaurant Chop house, sports bar and wine bar with patio dining. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3018 M119, HARBOR

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively sounds of Zydeco, jazz and blues. LD • BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530

BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room— fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS,

MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E.

Boone Dock’s Shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444

Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers. LD • BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688

Big Cat Brewing Company Great comfort food including pot roast, perch and Southern-fried chicken, but now with house-brewed beer. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 8699 S. GOOD HARBOR

TR., CEDAR, 231.228.2282

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MCFARLANE, MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

Garage Bar & Grill BBQ & bar eats. LD • BAR • $-$$ 108 S

WAUKAZOO ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386. 5511

Joe’s Friendly Tavern Whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$ 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

THE INCREDIBLE STORY OF

THEY DIDN’T KNOW IF IT WOULD EVER FLY AGAIN. BUT THE INSTRUCTORS AND MECHANICS AT NORTHWESTERN MICHIGAN COLLEGE NEVER GAVE UP. TEXT & PHOTOS BY DAN OSWALT

A-18 Super Cubs are designed and built by Piper Aircraft. This one made its debut back in 1953. Before coming to Traverse City, the plane was used by the National Forest Service, likely as a seeder. When the NMC crew found it, the plane was landbound—destroyed by a crash. Named N8777C (November 8777 Charlie) at the time, it was a forgotten aircraft. The renaming of N8777C to 644DR is in memory of pilot Don Rodriguez, a flight instructor at NMC who was onboard an L-39 Albatros that went missing during a practice flight for the 1998 National Cherry Festival Airshow. His loss is still felt by family and friends today. When NMC saw the plane on an auction site in the ‘90s, they purchased it immediately. The price? $1,500. (For reference, seaplanes today go for about $250,000.) The plane didn’t fly though, and some said it would never fly again. Bob Buttleman, former director of the aviation program, chose to think otherwise. His plan was to acquire the plane and make it a community project. But

MyNorth.com

as times grew hard at the college, and donors drew back, less attention was given to the plane. Pushed aside, it was up against a wall again. Enter Ed Borstel (who still works at NMC today as a lead mechanic). Ed came to NMC as a helicopter mechanic after retiring from the U.S. Air Force. Over the next seven years, Ed and 644 Delta Romeo got to know everything about each other. One of the wildest lessons Ed had to learn was the art of fabric covering. Take another look at the plane. Think it’s all metal? When you run your hand along the side it feels like a painted canvas—because it is. The only parts of the plane that are metal are the struts, engine mounts and floats—and some screws, bars and bolts here and there. 644 Delta Romeo is very unique compared to its PA-18 Super Cub siblings. If a part came in that fit, the NMC crew added it. If a donation of supplies was made to the hangar, they’d sift through the pieces and search for something that worked. Aviation geeks might notice 644 Delta Romeo is missing her thunderbolt art—instead, there are three black lines. Another key difference? Most PA-18 Super Cubs can’t land on water. Rather than choosing floats or wheels, NMC decided to invest in amphibious landing gear. Land or water, they can bring her down. The first engine test out on the runway was a landmark day for NMC. Mostly because it didn’t go according to plan. The intent was to fire up the engine and barrel it down the runway, maybe get a few feet

SOAR. See more photos from our flight aboard 644 Delta Romeo. MyNorth.com/YellowSeaplane

off the ground. Simple. But 644 Delta Romeo isn’t like most planes, she’s a high-flyer. Bob Buttleman taxied the plane out on the runway. Pushing the throttle he checked the magnetos in each engine. All was clear. He gave it some juice. To everyone’s amazement, the plane took off. High above the ground, Bob burst with as much excitement as the ground team far below—and calmed a few nerves. That overcast day in March 2007 was not only 644 Delta Romeo’s first runway test, it was her first flight in seven years. A bell hangs in the aviation office at NMC. It’s small, and you might miss it if you’re not paying attention. But when it rings, you can’t ignore it. Alex Bloye, the current director of NMC Aviation, explains that whenever a student passes a flight test, whether it’s their first solo flight or they’ve earned a new rating (like their seaplane rating), they come in and ring the bell. And everyone in the office—doesn’t matter what they’re in the middle of—comes out and cheers.

“We celebrate little victories here at NMC. Every one of them.” —Alex Bloye 644 Delta Romeo has had a lot of victories. From crash to recovery, every student who climbs aboard and each instructor who touches down—victory is in her wings. But to pilots, Alex tells me, every flight is just another adventure. Dan Oswalt spent the summer with us in Traverse City as an editorial intern writing articles for MyNorth.com, this is just one of them. Thanks, Dan.

Never miss out on great stories like these renew or subscribe for only $24 a year at mynorth.com/sub or call us in Traverse City at (231) 941-8174

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

dining | restaurant guide

Knot Just a Bar

Fish and burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019

BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE,

231.334.3944

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with fromscratch farmer food. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE

CITY, 922.9515

FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

231.256.9848

The Cooks’ House Sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-$$$ 115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Little Traverse Inn Old World gastro pub highlights the food and beer of the British Isles. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 149 E.

Firefly Sushi, steaks and burgers. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST.,

231.946.8700

HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY. 231. 228.2560

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR •

The Franklin Flatbread, salads, lamb and beef burgers, bistro dinners. LD • BAR • $-$$ 160 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on scratch regional cuisine. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413 N.

ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

North Country Grill & Pub (Whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) , fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR •

231.943.2727

Frenchies Famous Three tables and carryout, offers superb hot sandwiches and espresso drinks. BL • $ 619 RANDOLPH ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1228

Georgina’s Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 236 E. FRONT

$$ 420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1555

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY,

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, soups, salads and quiche. BL • $ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N.

GRAND TRAVERSE Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas,

Harvest Hip Asian and Latin influenced menu. LD • BAR • $

231.228.6692

great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

Mackinaw City

Tucker’s of Northport Bistro-style casual fine dining. Meet. Dine. Bowl. LD • BAR • $-$$ 116 WAUKAZOO, NORTHPORT, 231.386.1061

PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437

127 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.486.6037

Little Bohemia Famous Olive Burger featured on Food Network. Full menu. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 540 W. FRONT ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.6925

Mackinaw Brewing Co. House-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty char-burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR •

Petoskey

WEST GRANDVIEW PARKWAY, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0500

Bubba’s Burgers, chimis, salads, tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E.

Leland Lodge Bogeys— BLD • BAR • $-$$ 565 PEARL ST., LELAND,

$ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

Warehouse Kitchen & Cork Seasonally inspired farmto-fork restaurant inside Hotel Indigo. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 263

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. D • BAR • $$$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000

McGee’s No. 72 Gourmet burgers, fries, pizza and other sophisticated bar food. D • BAR • $$ 4341 M72 E., TRAVERSE

CITY, 231.421.8800

Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

Smoke and Porter Public House A new American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,

231.534.8888

Thai Café Eat in or take out authentic Thai cuisine in a cafe atmosphere. LD • $-$$ 1219 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1303

The Soup Cup, a MicroSouperie Homemade soups, grilled cheese, Belgian fries. L • $ 718 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.7687

$$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100 Gaylord Old Mission

Frankfort

Acme Traverse City Interlochen

Manistee

Cadillac

OLD MISSION PENINSULA

Boathouse Restaurant Casually elegant spot with great steaks, seafood, large local wine selection. Sunday brunch. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 14039 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4030

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. LD • BAR • $$

13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

TRAVERSE CITY—DOWNTOWN

Alliance James Beard-nominee Pete Peterson teams with up-and-coming chef James Bloomfield at this Warehouse District bistro. LD • BAR • $-$$ 144 HALL ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.642.5545

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.946.3991

Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST.,

Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic stea and burger house. LD • BAR •

new Common Good Bakery Handmade pastries, bread, croissants, breakfasts, soups, sandwiches.. BL • $ 537 W 14TH

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

$$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8002

Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD • $-$$$

642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

231.941.7325

new Raduno Neighborhood deli featuring homemade pasta,

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY,

TRAVERSE CITY 231.421.118

231.941.7632

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh-sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips A new location for ultrafresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE

231.941.8888

• $$-$$ $ 120 S. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Bay Bread Company Artisan breads, sandwiches, salads, soups. BLD • $ 601 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.8022

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.778.2583

The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted woodfired flatbreads and flavorful house brews. LD • BAR • $-$$

237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9645

CITY, 231.933.8700

Blue Heron 2 Local ingredients used in homemade bread and soup and other scratch dishes like roasted vegetable breakfast bowl. BL • $ 408 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.943.2793

Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Bistro Fou Fou Chef Guillaume Hazaël-Massieux also of La Bécasse in Maple City brings his country French cooking downtown. LD • $$-$$$ 118 CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.6583

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH

Sorellina Authentic Italian from Antipasta to pasta. D • BAR

231.943.2500

The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE

CITY, 231.929.0900

sausages, charcuterie and salads. LD • $-$$ 545 E EIGHTH ST.,

Sauce at Incredible Mo’s Artisan pizza, pasta, salad in a kid-friendly atmosphere. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1355 SILVER LAKE

CROSSINGS BLVD, GRAWN, 231.944.1355

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST

Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad.

LD • BAR • $$ 13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • $$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960

Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4648

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$

717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

MyNorth.com

restaurant guide| dining

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY,

F I N E D I N I N G · LO D G I N G · E V E N T S

231.929.8989

Tuscan Bistro Great patio, marina delivery and Mickey Cannon’s fresh bistro eats with Cajun and Italian influences. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 12930 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7795

West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted BENZIE / MANISTEE / WEXFORD chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE new

CITY, 231.943.2922

M AY ~ J A N

TheRiverside-Inn.com

231 256 9971

Mackinaw City

Petoskey

Gaylord

Frankfort Beulah Benzonia

Traverse City

Onekama Manistee

Cadillac

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ ONEKAMA/BEULAH

.com LOCALLY INSPIRED

• CAREFULLY CURATED

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails). BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114

Lucky Dog Bar & Grill Fire-grilled brats, tacos, burgers, smoked wings, craft beer, wine, liquor. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S.

BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499

Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

Yellow Dog Café Fabulous coffee, sandwiches, baked goods. LD $ 4850 MAIN ST, ONEKAMA, 231.508.5008

Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants! Go to MyNorth.com/restaurants

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

• AWARD WINNING BEER, PIZZA & SALAD • • COVERED OUTDOOR PATIO & BAR • • LIVE ENTERTAINMENT • • FAMILY FRIENDLY • OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER

Red Hot

Best

2018 Winner

(231) 946-8168 642 Railroad Place, Traverse City Located along the TART Trail

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red wine | drinks

FALL REDS IN THE GLASS

The earthy flavors of autumn cooking mean our wines should take a turn toward the dark side. Uncork these clutch bottlings from the exemplary 2016 harvest. VINO FILE

Sean O’Keefe

WINEMAKER | MARI VINEYARDS

Born with Old Mission winemaking in his blood, Sean O’Keefe travels the world as a student of wine and an ambassador for Northwest Michigan viticulture. We follow Sean into the cellar at Mari’s new state-of-art winery to dissect the nature of northern reds and talk about creating a new oeno-legacy.

First, let’s get a primer on the last two vintages. How did 2016 and 2017 shape up for wine production? 2016 was one of those rare vintages that favored both reds and whites on account of a warm, beautiful fall. Overall quality was good in 2017 but not as consistent as 2016 because of the weather erratically swinging between warm and cold.

DAVE WEIDNER

Now that Mari’s new winery is fully established, what’s its imprint on the Old Mission Peninsula wine scene? Because we’re faced with unique challenges here in terms of climate I think we need to learn from other edgy regions and try new techniques. Here at Mari, I think our edge is the Nella Serra system, our hoop house tunnels. Blending 10-15% of those grapes with our conventionally grown fruit gives the wines weight and texture and means we never have to add sugar. I’ve also learned to blend red varietals for balance. Let’s stay with blending. How have the Italian varietals you planted three years ago become part of the program at Mari? The Italian varietals seem to have grittier tannins and a whole different set of aromas. Teroldego and refosco, both grapes from Northeast Italy, are doing really well. They both have high acid, high tannin and give great color. The best teroldego barrels are getting blended with our merlot in a new wine called Proserpina.

Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com. Dave Weidner is a freelance photographer based in Traverse City. dweidnerphoto@gmail.com.

MARI VINEYARDS PRAEFECTUS 2016 A blend of conventionally grown cabernet franc accented with 25% cabernet sauvignon from Mari’s Nella Sera hoophouse system, Praefectus is forward with briary black raspberry, tar and cocoa accented with toasty oak. Pair with rosemary-rubbed lamb chops.

CHATEAU GRAND TRAVERSE GAMAY NOIR 2016 An unexposed ace-in-the-hole among Northern Michigan red varietals, CGT’s gamay yields a bright profile packed with tart cherry and tellicherry peppercorn made for fall mushroom risotto and pan-roasted lake trout.

2LADS PINOT NOIR CUVEE BEATRICE 2016 Winemaker Cornel Olivier teases remarkably expressive pinot noir from the soils surrounding 2Lads. Cuvee Beatrice sings with high tone red berry fruit and vanilla imparted from 10 months in French Oak. Plays nice with an autumn hash of butternut squash, mushrooms and smoked duck breast.

SHADY LANE MERLOT 2016 We should all be drinking Northern Michigan merlot. Expansive, luscious and replete with black cherry and chocolate, Shady Lane’s 2016 is texturally on point and a perfect match for seared venison loin.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '18

trail running | outdoors

WHERE TO TRAILBLAZE Grand Traverse Commons Trails, tracing the forested hills at Grand Traverse Commons in Traverse City, offer steep climbs for the adventurous. The Vasa Pathway, within the Pere Marquette State Forest in Acme, provides several access points and loops—3K, 5K, 10K and 25K— allowing runners of all abilities to plot a desired distance. Hickory Meadows, at the top of Randolph Street in Traverse City, serves up a combo of wide-open expanses complemented by wooded tracts. Pyramid Point Trail, near Glen Arbor, provides a truly wild space and a challenging blend of level cruising and hilly switchbacks. Grass River Natural Area, Bellaire, is a watery oasis with lakes, a meandering river, crystal clear creeks. The Big M Trail, in the Manistee National Forest, has four segments— nearly 40 miles total—offering challenging uphill intervals.

GLADE RUNNER Discover an easy joy when running the woods. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ANDREW VANDRIE

Leave the monotonous and mundane road runs in the dirt. Fall is an ideal time to race along the hiking trails of Northern Michigan. The hardwoods and meadows dazzle in vibrant color, and the air is crisp with mellow breezes that make for ideal running conditions. Trails present a quiet change in scenery from road traffic, and the soft ground of trail running also provides respite from the hard pounding of feet on pavement. To combat chill mornings without overheating, combine shorts with a long-sleeve (preferably moisture-wicking), breathable shirt. Tie on well-worn trainers, and let your

run turn any favored hiking tail into a fresh experience. As with any run, hydration is essential so have a full Nalgene handy—either waiting in the car or to carry with you. Northern Michigan offers a bevy of trail-running opportunities (see sidebar). Whichever trail you choose, be sure to enjoy the season’s prime-time blend of pleasant temps, glowing views and (relatively) empty trails. Andrew VanDrie writes from Traverse City. vandrian@umich.edu.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

OCT ’18

love of the land

Lake Bluff Bird Sanctuary, Manistee PHOTO COURTESY MANISTEE COUNTY VISITORS BUREAU

This 100-foot-high perch above Lake Michigan was originally the M.E. and Gertrude Gray home and property, and gifted to the Michigan Audubon Society to be open to the public year-round, every day from dawn until dusk. Fall is a glorious time to visit the 75-acre grounds to hike and bird-watch (look for horned grebes, bald eagles and downy woodpeckers). Or have a picnic in the shade of one of two Michigan Champion Trees, a sycamore maple or a giant sequoia (pictured above). For more on Lake Bluff Bird Sanctuary, go to MICHIGANAUDUBON.ORG.

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