Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine October 2020

FESTIVE CANDY COCKTAILS // TIPS FOR COOKING WITH PUMPKIN FALL IN FRANKFORT—HERE ARE OUR STOPS (ADD YOUR OWN!)

INSIDE: NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE VIRTUAL TOUR

LIGHTHOUSES! THREE SHORELINE DAY TRIPS FOR THIS COLOR SEASON

oint P ion house s s i M Light

SLEEPING BEAR TURNS 50 THE FOUNDING, THE STRUGGLES, THE ULTIMATE TREASURE

LEHTO’S LEGENDARY PASTIES YOUR FIRST MUST-STOP IN THE U.P.

ROCK HUNTING’S BEST SEASON HOW TO POLISH YOUR FINDS

OCTOBER 2020

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$4.50

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9/4/20 7:54 AM

GRAND OPENING SPECIALS Free Cooler When You Open a New Account 1

Cash Back When You Open an Auto Loan 3

Bonus Cash

with Checking Account and Direct Deposit 2

Free USB Night Light Charger

with New Visa Credit Card

4

RECEIVE MORE WITH AN ACCOUNT FROM MSUFCU Take advantage of these limited-time specials by visiting our new branch on South Union Street, opening your account online, or giving us a call.

Don’t have an account? Open one today!

Traverse City, Union St. Branch 312 S. Union St. msufcu.org • 231-715-4016 All offers valid September 1 – October 31, 2020, and are only valid for members with accounts in good standing. 1 Each qualifying member who opens an account will receive a free cooler within 4 to 6 weeks of promotion end. Not valid for existing members or youth accounts. May not be combined with any other new account offers. 2 Each qualifying member who opens a new checking account and adds direct deposit of their net biweekly payroll of $1,200 or more to their MSUFCU checking account will receive $100. First direct deposit must be made by 11/30/2020. $100 will be deposited to checking account within 4-6 weeks of the first direct deposit. May not be combined with any other checking or deposit offers. 3 $100 cash back offer valid on auto, RV, and boat loans of $20,000 or more. Qualifying members will receive $100 deposited into their accounts within 4-6 weeks of loan disbursal. Offer valid for new loans and loans refinanced from another financial institution; offer does not apply to refinances of existing MSUFCU auto, RV, or boat loans. Offer valid on direct and indirect loans for existing members only. Indirect new members not eligible. Cannot be combined with any other auto/RV/boat loan offers.

4 After first qualifying purchase on new Visa Credit Card opened during the promotional period, you will receive a USB night light charger. Qualifying purchases must be made between 9/1/2020 and 10/31/2020 and exclude tax payments, any unauthorized charges or transactions, cash advances, convenience checks, balance transfers, and fees of any kind. USB night light charger will be mailed to you within 4-6 weeks of qualifying purchase. Offer void if qualifying purchase is returned. While supplies last. First come, first served. Federally insured by NCUA.

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Contents

Discover more about Up North, people, places, food and events.

october | features

28

36 42

28 | LIGHTHOUSE COLOR TOUR Three Great Lakes lighthouses + three shoreside towns. Pick one and make it a day trip, or spend a long weekend visiting them all.

36 | LEHTO’S LEGENDARY PASTIES (STILL THE REAL DEAL) The perfect golden-brown, savory pasty awaits you in the U.P. No gravy needed.

42 | SLEEPING BEAR TURNS 50 A half-century after Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore was established, peace reigns in the most beautiful place in America.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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contents | departments

9 7 | EDITOR’S NOTE 9 | UP NORTH A scuba diver reveals the beauty and mystery of the many shipwrecks of the Great Lakes.

Plus, discover the history behind an iconic art deco building in Traverse City, and find out when to see fall color this year.

17 | OCTOBER EVENTS With the turning of the leaves comes plenty of color tours, wine events, harvest festivals and, of course, pumpkin picking.

The Home of Pepper Mill Spices

Gift shopping tastefully simple

21 | TRAVEL Spend a perfect fall day in Frankfort—from biking to Crystal Lake and cruising scenic M-22, to grabbing a beer and some garlic Parmesan popcorn at Stormcloud Brewing.

23 | UP IN MICHIGAN Kitchen & Pantry Accessories Decor, Gifts, Gift Baskets Famous custom blended seasonings of the highest quality pepper and spices.

Reflections on the lessons of empathy we can learn from the seasonal spectacle of Lepidoptera— the array of butterflies, skippers and moths found in Northern Michigan.

27 | OUTDOORS

The House of Good Taste!

Downtown Alden •Downtown Open 7 days, Alden 10am-5pm May thru Dec Open 7(231) days, 10am-5pm, May thru Dec 331-4711 • (800) 226-5481 Visit us(213) all year long at www.aldenmillhouse.com 331-4711 • (800) 226-5481

Visit us all year long at aldenmillhouse.com

Fall is the best season for rock hunting—high winds and waves are constantly bringing new stones to shore. So, head out to your favorite beach in search of our state’s prized Petoskey, and polish up your finds.

49 | DINING Make scrumptious pumpkin dishes thanks to these tips and techniques from Chef John Richardson of Gaylord’s Bearded Dogg Lounge.

53 | LOCAL TABLE Cozy up with buttermilk biscuits served warm with a dab of local honey or spice-infused pumpkin butter.

55 | DRINKS Snag a few goodies from your kids’ trick-or-treat bags for these wickedly delicious drink recipes from Northern Latitudes Distillery.

56 | LOVE OF THE LAND This fall, Michigan residents are poised to vote on a ballot measure that could further the preservation of parks and natural lands.

ON THE COVER Mission Point Lighthouse Photo by Dave Weidner

FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

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MyNorth.com

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Lake Michigan Waterfront A MyNorth Media Publication VOLUME 40 • NUMBER 5

PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF

Deborah Wyatt Fellows

CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER

Michael Wnek

MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL AND CONTENT EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson

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ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Ann Gatrell Sarah Haase Chelsea Harland Meg Lau

MARKETING DIRECTOR

Erin Lutke

BOOKKEEPER

Beach Rd Crystal Downs

Andrew VanDrie Kandace Chapple Kim Schneider Tim Tebeau

DIRECTOR OF SALES

OFFICE MANAGER

(231) 651-9711 suzy.voltz@gmail.com

Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist

Jen Berigan

MYNORTH TICKETS CUSTOMER SUCCESS SPECIALIST

Suzy Voltz

Allison Jarrell

WEB DIRECTOR

MARKETING COORDINATOR

MLS 187 7189

Kara Jarvis

Emily Oakes Libby Stallman

Making Your Kitchen The Ideal Place To Be

Bridal Registry & Gift Certificates

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Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 S Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 Subscriber Services Visit MyNorth.com/Account to renew your subscription, change your address, or review your account.

Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800-678-3416 between 8:30 am and 5 pm EST.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly

by Prism Publications Inc., 125 S Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684.

Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $24.95 for 12 issues.

Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2020, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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editor’s note

Remembering Kurt Luedtke

BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

I lost a dear friend last month.

It wasn’t COVID-19—but rather the winding down of a long and remarkable life. People all over, particularly Eleanor, his wife of many decades, are adjusting to a world without Kurt. I’m certainly one of them.

I would not try to write about Kurt’s life, or the loss of him, if it weren’t for profound impact on this dream of a magazine for more than 37 years. I met Kurt Luedtke when I was 26 years old and in way over my head, having started Traverse on a song and a prayer, and neither seemed to be helping. I owed more than $180,000 in active payables, and any one of 10 things could shut us down on any given day. I was working two jobs, and still, I was a believer in the truest sense.

As such, I’d taken to calling all kinds of experienced people around the country to ask one question: “Should I quit?” People were remarkably kind to look at and talk about our situation.

And they were equally kind when they all answered my question with, “Yes.” Most did not believe Northern Michigan could support a four-color magazine. I believed differently, knowing our passionate entrepreneurs and the readers who dearly love this place.

One of the people I called suggested I reach out to Kurt, who spent time in Glen Arbor. He was a Pulitzer Prize winner, Executive Editor of the Detroit Free Press at the age of 33 and nominated for an Oscar for Best Original Screenplay for “Absence of Malice.”

Daunting, but I didn’t miss a beat.

They had told me he was incredibly smart. And I needed smart.

I called Kurt in Glen Arbor on a blustery Monday in October. He answered the way he did every time his phone rang: “Kurt Luedtke.” He was absolutely silent as I babbled a bit, and then he finally said, in his notoriously clipped manner, “Come out at 5. And bring three issues.” And he hung up.

I arrived at 5 p.m., sat down on the couch and began my passionate story of why this magazine should survive. Kurt was a chain smoker. And he liked to move around. After about 15 minutes, having been through many of these sorts of meetings, I figured I had about 15 more minutes and I’d be back in the car.

I talked faster. He smoked and walked more, asking the occasional question.

At one point I looked at the clock and saw it was 7 p.m. I apologized that I’d taken so much of his time. He said, “I don’t have anywhere to be. Do you?” I said, “No,” and he did his thing with his hand that meant keep going. Then he stopped and said, “But, Deb, you probably want to take off your coat.”

At around 10:30 p.m., after the most engaging conversation I’d ever had about the magazine’s reason for being and the obvious challenges, Kurt said, “You have two options. If you want to quit, I’ll get you a job anywhere in the country. If you want to keep going, I’ll help you figure this out. Let’s get something to eat.” I stood up to follow him, feeling for the first time since I’d started that, just maybe, I wasn’t a failure.

We went out to a local tavern, and I got my first taste of his storytelling prowess, and of a life filled with remarkable stories. I also got my first glimpse of Kurt’s brain, his very dry humor, his intolerance of feckless thought and his insatiable curiosity. We closed down the bar. When I got back in my car, I was so wound up that I drove to Empire Bluffs, parked away from the entrance (because, of course, you can’t be in the dunes at 2:30 in the morning), and walked to the top of the dune. I looked out at the enormous expanse of black and stars, the sound of the waves far below and trees creaking behind me, and I thought, if it all ended that night, I’d be left with a profound sense of gratitude. Even though Kurt, too, had said he didn’t think the region could support a magazine, he didn’t tell me to quit.

After that first night, Kurt met with the staff. He helped us hone our mission. He even went to plead my case with someone at the state tax agency when I had a tax problem. That first year, Kurt was in Glen Arbor doing the last rewrites on “Out of Africa” and was always happy to have someone to grab a burger with, as well as many, many Bourbon Manhattans—no fruit, the color of tobacco. I was the lucky recipient of Kurt Up North. Through weekly drinks and dinner over the next three decades, I spent time with him in a place he loved, outside the wider 4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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editor’s note

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world. And I saw yet another example of how Northern Michigan embraces creative and accomplished people: For the most part, he was just Kurt. And that was how he liked it.

Kurt gave praise, not just because he thought it was well deserved, but because he knew you knew it was.

And the same with criticism. Anyone who has worked for Kurt or asked for his input knows he could skewer you brilliantly and often. During the four decades of our friendship, I’d occasionally get an email from him, after an issue came out that said things like, “I thought you were a writer. After reading this column, maybe not.” As I said, he didn’t suffer fools lightly.

But, the thing about Kurt was, he took the time, if he wanted to, to truly know you, know what you dreamed of, know what you were capable of, know the standards you set for yourself. His input, no matter how harshly put, always came when he saw you dropping the ball on those very things.

So, once the sting subsided, a sense of possibility emerged because Kurt believed you could do better.

I met Kurt when it was just me and my dog, Sara. I knew him my entire adult life, and he was a part of it all. He didn’t quite get why I would have four kids but from our first, he poured over the stories I would tell, finding joy in their antics and such compassion in their struggles. Kurt and Eleanor always treated our kids with warmth, humor and a respect often reserved for adults.

Kurt was brilliant. He was the person you wanted in the face of challenge. He had the most wonderful laugh, and when you made him laugh, it was like winning the lottery. He was a student of the lives of those he cared about, making each of us feel as though there was nothing too small to share with him—and nothing too big.

And so, we start learning how to live in a world without Kurt. What I wouldn’t give to dial the phone one more time and hear: “Kurt Luedtke.”

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth.com. debwf@traversemagazine.com.

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MyNorth.com

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Up North

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

The Siren Song of Shipwrecks

Traverse City resident Chris Roxburgh is an electrical contractor who owns First Class Wiring. He’s also a scuba diver and underwater photographer, known for the beautiful images and videos he takes of Great Lakes shipwrecks—and for diving in all four seasons, even under ice. 4

BY CARLY SIMPSON | PHOTOS BY CHRIS ROXBURGH

Traverse, Northern Northern Michigan’s Michigan’s Magazine Magazine || Traverse,

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up north | shipwrecks

Taste What’s

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How many shipwrecks have you dived to in the Great Lakes?

I have dove on 68 shipwrecks so far and counting.

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So far, what are your favorites?

Westmoreland, Frankfort, Lake Michigan, 200’: Westmoreland was amazing to see because of its story. [Legend has it she went down with a winter’s pay for the entire garrison stationed at Fort Mackinac—gold pieces that would be worth millions today. Read the full story at MyNorth.com/Westmoreland.] The ship is intact—the wheel is in place, and the hogging arches are a sight to see.

!

W E N

Eber Ward, Straits of Mackinac, 142’: The Eber Ward is sitting upright and still intact with anchors on its deck.

This ship is massive and you can see the giant hole from the ice chunk that went through her hull on the day she sank. There is a pair of boots in her bow and light illuminates her top floor through the windows.

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And how many more are on your bucket list?

I’m planning to dive every known wreck I can reach at a depth of 200 feet or less in the Great Lakes. So, a few hundred more.

Schooner Typo, Presque Isle, Lake Huron, 200’: The Typo is a ghost ship sitting proud 200’ down. With her masts standing tall, this schooner has its rigging in place and the bell can be seen on the deck. Her bowsprit is reaching out from the darkness with ropes attached, and the anchor is on her side.

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Jane, Arcadia, Lake Michigan, 110’: The Jane is one of my favorite shipwrecks because it’s a mini freighter and only two ships like her were ever built. She sits upright and artifacts including the bell and anchor can still be seen. 4

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MyNorth.com

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shipwrecks | up north

What's it like down there, so far below the surface?

It’s almost surreal to see these ships deep underwater as they are frozen in time. I love to experience the history and see the wrecks as they looked before they went down. Sometimes it’s a bit eerie visiting an underwater wreck from the 1800s, knowing it was someone’s final resting place.

When diving a shipwreck, what rules should people be aware of?

The rules of wreck diving are to look and not touch or disturb anything; leave it as you found it.

It’s illegal to remove things off wrecks.

I read your article in Michigan Country Lines Magazine and you mentioned you've seen pollution, dumping and littering impacting the Great Lakes—what are some of the things you come across while you're in the water?

I’m always finding garbage like plastics pollution, cups, wrappers, etc. and gather what I can during my dives. I was hired last year by the Detroit Free Press to work on a plastics pollution story that made national news.

Do you remember seeing trash and pollution when you were a kid, having grown up in this area?

When I was a kid there was not as much trash as there is now. We see thousands more people here in Traverse City now now during our festivals and our busy summers, which makes for even more trash.

Did You Know?

Are you working with other divers or solo on any projects?

I’m working with Dusty Klifman and my wife, Bea Roxburgh, on systematically documenting shipwrecks in the Great Lakes. I’m also currently writing a book called “Leelanau Underwater” that will feature shipwrecks around Leelanau County.

THERE ARE MORE THAN 6,000 SHIPWRECKS IN THE GREAT LAKES, COSTING AN ESTIMATED 30,000 MARINERS THEIR LIVES, ACCORDING TO THE GREAT LAKES SHIPWRECK MUSEUM IN PARADISE.

What's one thing you wish everyone knew about the Great Lakes?

We have the best shipwreck diving in the world.

Anything else you want to share with our readers?

Let’s all enjoy our waters and do our part to help keep them clean by removing trash as we see it and do our best to leave no trace during beach and water activities.

Due to COVID-19, Chris has had to cancel several of his shipwreck presentations, but you can follow his journeys and watch for future events at facebook.com/ChrisRoxburghDiver.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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fall color | up north

Head to MyNorth.com/FallColorMap for a handy guide from Tom on where to see the best color in the Northern Lower Peninsula and the Upper Peninsula, updated weekly from the first day of fall (September 22) through the end of October.

Predicting Peak Color

still 50 percent changed. The warmth of Lake Michigan keeps the trees greener a little longer than those inland. This is why the Tunnel of Trees, in Emmet County near the lakeshore, is one of the spots that generally doesn't change until late October.

Each fall, we’ve all got the same question: when will we see fall color around here? Whether “here” means Gaylord and Grayling or the Lake Michigan coast, Doppler 9&10 Chief Meteorologist Tom O’Hare is the guy to ask. For Tom’s weekly color updates, head to MyNorth.com/FallColorMap.

BY CARLY SIMPSON | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

So, that million-dollar question: when will we see color around here?

You would think the answer is simple, but it's not. The color change depends on a lot of things. First, the amount of sunshine is a major factor.

The long days of summer sun keep the leaves green as the trees make chlorophyll. However, as the days get shorter, trees stop making as much chlorophyll, and the leaves start to change. This is when things get interesting in Northern Michigan. The more sunshine we get in September, the more delayed the change. Add in a big drop in temperatures and lots of clouds, and colors change quicker. And we can't forget the amount of rainfall—

if we are in a drought, plan on a quicker change.

A good example is last year. The color change started off as expected, but a warm and sunny spell slowed things down by about two weeks. This means predicting the timing of the color change is not an easy task.

Trees at higher elevations change color first, and areas along the lakeshore, like the Tunnel of Trees, see color later on. I'm guessing this has to do with temperature?

Since higher elevations are colder than the lakeshores, the change can be even more noticeable. Inland spots can be past peak while lakeside areas are

Your friend is planning a fall color vacation. What advice do you share?

When friends ask me when the best time to tour Northern Lower Michigan is, I generally say, mid- to late-October. Reason is, there’s almost always good color somewhere in the area. Higher elevations are at peak or past peak, as well as the U.P., and lower elevations are 50 percent changed or approaching peak.

I recommend those coming up early to check out the U.P. and higher elevations of the Lower Peninsula. There are many areas to see color in Northern Michigan. Heading north on I-75 is a good start, with waves of orange and red around every bend. Traveling south along US-131, you find incredible color from Petoskey to Kalkaska along the hills to the east. Along M-32, M-72 or M-55, you can find even more color that can be breathtaking. The key is finding multiple elevation changes to see color near and far.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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S T!

history | up north « OCTOBER 1987

Stationed in Time

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

A THRIVING REGION

It was October 1987 when Traverse featured Traverse City’s iconic Crandall’s Super Service gas station. The Michigan Bureau of History had recently designated the station as a historic landmark.

It’s impossible to celebrate our 40th anniversary at Traverse without also honoring the small businesses and nonprofit organizations that have supported our mission throughout the years and who make Northern Michigan such a special place to live and visit.

Each month we’ll continue to share these important anniversaries in print, and you can find the full list at MyNorth.com/ BizAnniversaries. —A.J. 49 YEARS The Outfitter, Harbor Springs 48 YEARS Rowe Inn, Ellsworth Frederick Crosley Ball, Harbor Springs 46 YEARS The Flower Station, Traverse City Charlevoix Area Humane Society

BY ALLISON JARRELL

Traverse writer Tim Penning noted that not much had changed at Crandall’s since the time when a gas station was considered a new idea. “The cars come in different styles now and the pumps offer more varieties of gasoline, but the building remains the same,” Penning wrote in ’87.

Today, memories of 72-year-old Deronda “Curly” Crandall can be found throughout the art deco building and tiling, now home to Randy’s Olde Towne Service. The original lettering spelling out “washing,” “greasing,” “batteries” and “tires” still hangs above the garage doors. And on one of the shop’s doors, the metal portion along the bottom is concave from all the times Crandall kicked it open to pump gas for a customer.

In 1987, Crandall was no longer running the station, but he was still pumping gas and greeting customers the same way he did in 1936. Crandall and his brother Max began leasing the station in the 1930s, and in 1960, after Max went into business for himself, Crandall bought the station—marking the start of Crandall’s Super Service. “I know most of the people who come in here,” Crandall told Traverse in ’87. “A lot of them are customers who have been coming here for years. Some come in to see me, I think, and they still call me by name.”

Crandall passed away in August 1995. He sold the station in the early 1990s to Randy Schmerheim, a former competitor who ran the Shell station across the street from Crandall’s, and today, the building at the corner of Eighth and Union Street is home to Randy’s Olde Towne Service. Randy’s shop specializes in an array of auto diagnostics, repair and maintenance services. But beyond that, Randy offers patrons something truly unique—the opportunity to take a step back in time.

45 YEARS The Clothing Company, Charlevoix 44 YEARS Leelanau Books, Leland Leelanau Children’s Center, Leland Burdco, Inc., Traverse City 42 YEARS Whiteford Associates, Inc., Traverse City 41 YEARS White and Liebler Architects, Petoskey Donna Popke, Interior Design, Suttons Bay 40 YEARS Sound Productions, Clare Yanke Designs Fine Jewelry, Traverse City BrickWays Foundation, Traverse City Trend Window & Design, Traverse City Sheren Plumbing and Heating, Petoskey King Orchards, Central Lake Benzie Area Symphony Orchestra La Bécasse, Maple City

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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9/8/20 9:24 AM

TIX Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

October

Please note, as these dates approach, some events may be postponed or canceled to protect the safety of both event organizers and attendees. Throughout the year, visit MyNorth.com/Events for current community happenings.

ED ITED BY L I BBY STAL L MAN

THU

1

FRI

EMPIRE HOPS & HARVEST FESTIVAL Food, drinks and live music in downtown Empire. Oct. 2–3; empirechamber.com

SAT

SLEEPING BEAR MARATHON, HALF MARATHON & 5K The out-and-back course takes runners by the Dune Climb, Little Glen Lake and Glen Arbor, with plenty of gorgeous views in between. sleepingbearmarathon.com

2 3

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

HUNT FOR THE REDS OF OCTOBER Leelanau wineries are known for award-winning whites, but this event is all about discovering the high-quality reds also produced on the peninsula. Your ticket gets you a pour at more than 20 participating wineries.

Monday–Friday, Oct. 1–31; MyNorthTickets.com

MON

5

FRANKFORT BEER WEEK Craft beer-inspired events, menus and specials through Oct. 10 at a variety of Frankfort businesses and restaurants. frankfortbeerweek.com

SAT

B.B. KING BLUES BAND The Great Lakes Center for the Arts in Bay Harbor presents the B.B. King Blues Band with Claudette King and Michael Lee. greatlakescfa.org

SAT

ORCHARDS AT SUNSET VIRTUAL 5K AND FUN RUN The annual race has gone virtual this year. Run by yourself or with friends Oct. 1–31. Turn in your race times to be eligible for prizes for top racers. All money raised goes to the students of Leelanau Montessori Public School Academy.

MyNorthTickets.com

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SUN

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12TH ANNUAL TUFF ENUFF GOLF TOURNAMENT Play one of Michigan’s toughest golf courses, The Bear at Grand Traverse Resort and Spa, at its absolute hardest. For one day only, The Bear turns into 7,000+ yards of long-range tee boxes, aggressive greens and challenging hole locations.

MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

MURDER MYSTERY DINNER Bribe suspects for clues and gather information to uncover the guest who is whacking all the invitees. Just be careful—you could be the next victim! Otsego Resort, Gaylord.

MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

PEAK2PEAK MOUNTAIN BIKE CLASSIC This annual event at Crystal Mountain is in its 15th year.

Riders pedal through hardwood and pine forests along two-tracks and flowing single-track on a course that’s fast and challenging. crystalmountain.com

FRI

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE VIRTUAL HOME TOUR Explore 8 of the North's most stunning residences from the comfort of your home through virtual video documentaries.

This donation-only event benefits Child & Family Services of Northwest Michigan.

MyNorthTickets.com

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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PHOTO BY TAYLOR BROWN

events | october

3 FALL WINE EVENTS & TOURS Toast peak fall color season with these local wines.

HUNT FOR THE REDS OF OCTOBER WEEKDAYS IN OCTOBER Wineries on the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail, voted No. 2 Best Wine Region in the nation by USA Today, are well-known for riesling and other cool-climate white varietals, but the area’s award-winning reds are often overlooked. So, all month long, Leelanau County vintners at more than 20 participating wineries are showcasing their best red wines, including big and bold merlots, aromatic and spicy pinot noirs and more.

Tickets are $25 per person and include a souvenir wine glass. Your ticket gets you a complimentary pour at each of the participating wineries throughout the month (Monday–Friday). After your featured wine tasting, standard tasting fees apply. Proceeds from the event benefit the American Red Cross of Northern Michigan.

MyNorthTickets.com; lpwines.com

OTSEGO RESORT'S ANNUAL WINE & CHEESE FALL COLOR TOUR OCTOBER 3 & 17

BLACK STAR FARMS ARCTUROS DINING SERIES - HARVEST BOUNTIES OCTOBER 23

Cruise The Tribute golf course at the Gaylord resort, stopping at four stations along the way for food and wine pairings (two wine tastings and one small bite per station). Guests will enjoy a complimentary tasting of bubbly when they check in at the resort’s Sitzmark Bar. (Golfing not included.)

The events and culinary team at Black Star Farms in Suttons Bay invites you to spend an evening at the beautiful inn for their popular dining series, which features seasonal ingredients sourced from Northern Michigan farms.

Station 1: Rosé All Day - rosé and pinot noir at hole #3 Station 2: Chardonnay or Should I Go? chardonnay and cabernet at hole #7 Station 3: You Had Me At Merlot - merlot and a white blend at hole #10 Station 4: Be Reislingable - late harvest riesling and mulled wine at hole #14 Tickets for the event cost $48 and are available at MyNorthTickets.com. otsegoclub.com

Find more wine events throughout the year at MyNorthTickets.com and MyNorth.com/Events.

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Each event includes a distinctly local element, such as musical accompaniment, an expert-led morel hunt or al fresco dining atop the estate vineyard. The evening begins at 6 p.m. with a welcoming reception and a themed craft cocktail. During dinner service, the culinary team will share the inspiration behind the menu, and a winery representative will talk about the wine pairings with updates on new releases and vintages.

This month's menu will feature lateautumn produce sourced from Black Star's own chef's garden. Dress for the weather— the event will be outdoors under a tent.

The ticket price, $125, includes the welcome cocktail, dinner, wine pairings, tax and service fee. MyNorthTickets.com; blackstarfarms.com

MyNorth.com

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9/3/20 3:11 PM

october | events

A PUMPKIN PICKIN’ WE GO These local farms and markets all offer plenty of fall fun, plus plump pumpkins in all colors, shapes and sizes.

PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

FARMER WHITE'S 11373 S. US-31, WILLIAMSBURG Pull over at this sweet red-and-white barn for local produce, artisan baked goods, handmade jams and pumpkins galore.

GALLAGHER'S FARM MARKET 7237 E. TRAVERSE HWY., TRAVERSE CITY There's a reason this family-run farm has a line before they open on the first day of pumpkin doughnut season. You can smell the warm, freshly baked goodies all the way from the pumpkin patch as you pick this year’s favorites.

JACOB'S FARM 7100 E. TRAVERSE HWY., TRAVERSE CITY In addition to three corn mazes—a kiddie corn maze, haunted corn maze and the epic 10-acre corn maze (this year’s theme is Michigan shipwrecks)— Jacob's offers U-Pick pumpkins, apples and hayrides.

This year the farm is also adding several exciting amenities including a full-service kitchen, an outdoor bar and more.

KNAEBE'S MMMUNCHY KRUNCHY APPLE FARM AND CIDER MILL 2621 S. KARSTEN RD., ROGERS CITY Not only does this beautiful orchard have U-Pick apples, a pumpkin patch, farm animals, a playground and a corn maze (several activities are free!), it also stays open later for adults, offering hard cider and wood-fired pizza.

PAHL'S PUMPKIN PATCH 11168 N. M-37, BUCKLEY Pumpkins, wagon rides and adorable farm animals— yes! Plus, homemade cider and doughnuts.

POND HILL FARM 5699 S. LAKESHORE DRIVE, HARBOR SPRINGS Make it a whole day: U-Pick pumpkins, hayrides, the famous squash rocket, a picnic area and cafe, petting zoo, winery/brewery—the list goes on!

ROYAL FARMS, INC. 10445 N. US-31, ELLSWORTH You’re not just stopping for pumpkins—pick apples, get treats from the bakery and cap it all off with a wine and hard cider tasting.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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Weathervane Terrace Inn & Suites • Only rated hotel in downtown Charlevoix • Largest seasonal outdoor heated pool • Indoor hot tubs and fireplaces • Some balconies with views of lake or bridge • Free high speed fiber internet.

www.weathervane-chx.com info@weathervane-chx.com 111 Pine River Ln., Charlevoix • 231.547.9955

Always the unique and unexpected since 1986

Old Pawn & Estate Indian Jewelry BUYING & selling Native Treasures since 1986

112 North Main Street Leland, MI 49654 (231) 256-7747 info@TampicoLelandMi.com FOLLOW US! www.facebook.com/Tampicolelandmi

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9/7/20 12:02 PM

what to do | travel

24 HOURS IN FRANKFORT

BY KIM SCHNEIDER | PHOTO BY MAE STIER

Picture the family vacation of the '50s and '60s; kids piled into the station wagon, bikes on back. Add some stunning beaches (and great rock hunting) and even a root beer float from a nostalgic drive-in restaurant, and you have Frankfort, Michigan, one of the state's most classic and scenic beach towns. And here’s a secret: Frankfort only gets prettier come autumn. Here are some musts for a perfect fall day in Frankfort.

ON-WATER LODGING You've got options, but it's fun to pick a place with a past. Rent a lodge room or cozy cottage on the bluff at circa1930s Chimney Corners Resort, located on M-22 with views (and 300 feet of sandy beach frontage) of the turquoisepainted Crystal Lake. Or stay right on the Frankfort harbor at Harbor Lights Resort.

The elegant condominium rentals are set on the spot where guests of yore arriving on steamships would once have spent their vacations at the Royal Frontenac Hotel—a grand dame that rivaled Mackinac Island’s Grand Hotel from 1902 until 1912 when the Royal Frontenac was lost in a fire. CHIMNEYCORNERSRESORT. COM; HARBORLIGHTSRESORT.NET

ROAD (OR TRAIL) TRIP Grab your bike (or rent one) and ride one of the state's prettiest bike trails. Start in Frankfort and cruise the paved Betsie Valley Trail to the stunning blues of Crystal Lake where aggregate continues through Beulah and on to Thompsonville. Or, roll down the car windows and go for a spin on the state's iconic M-22, named one of America’s most scenic fall drives by USA Today. The stretch of M-22 from

Manistee to Leelanau County (Frankfort in the center of that route) is gorgeous in the fall, but any time of year you'll gasp at the view from the top of the 120-step climb to Arcadia Overlook.

down the road from the studio, visit the cute critters at Crystal Lake Alpaca Farm and Boutique. GWENFROSTIC.COM;

BETSIEVALLEYTRAIL.ORG

ROCK HUNT ‘TIL SUNSET

CRAFT BEER EXPERIENCES Stormcloud is more than a brewery— it’s a destination that goes well beyond craft beer. This Frankfort favorite holds an annual film series where dinner and brews match the flick being shown right next door at The Garden Theater. A curling league takes up the discs each winter on Stormcloud’s own ice rink and the regular menu features items like Thai One On pizza with curried shrimp and a peanut drizzle. Pop in the downtown location for some garlic Parmesan popcorn with your brew on the wide patio. STORMCLOUDBREWING.COM

CRYSTALLAKEALPACAFARM.COM

Some say fall is the best time of all for rock hunting as high winds are always bringing fresh rocks up to the beach. Drive a couple of miles north of Frankfort to Point Betsie where you’ll find an iconic lighthouse and a beach that’s perfect for rock hounds. Bring your camera and capture the lighthouse, beach and big lake with the Manitou islands in the distance. Stay for sunset, or head back downtown to catch the day’s last rays as they descend behind the 67-foot-high tower of the North Breakwater Lighthouse.

TIP: Rock hunting on the North’s beaches is best right after a storm, and it's easier to see stones on cloudy days.

UNIQUE DESTINATIONS

POINTBETSIE.ORG

Not far from Frankfort, in neighboring Benzonia, tour the late artist Gwen Frostic's still-working studio and store, which prints and sells her signature cards, journals and more, featuring the frolicking forest creatures and plants that Frostic is famous for. Then, just

Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she's the author of “100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die.”

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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9/9/20 10:30 AM

essay | up in michigan

A Lesson in Empathy

BY JAMES MCCULLOUGH

A

ccording to my mother, I named them “butter butters” in my first year of life, drawn to the entire seasonal spectacle of Lepidoptera—the rich array of butterflies, skippers, and moths, their nocturnal associates.

Below my childhood house in Petoskey, from the day I was released from the yard, I pursued them with my net through an array of ecosystems stretching from the hardwood bird sanctuary to the stream flowing through the old deer park, the open dunes of the Winter Sports Park and the solitary field beyond and beside the Bay View woods. I would chase them, capture them, hold them gently by the thorax, admire and release them.

Smitten by the dramatic spectrum of design and color across the species, I observed their mystical transformations, species-specific flight patterns and paradoxical strength. As I explored, I discovered how species vary from wetlands with each new degree of water’s scarcity, how all living things must adapt to survive, and that some species preferred shaded, damp canopies; others preferred dry and open spaces. I recognized that the early spring Mourning Cloaks marked the new season of butterflies and the end of winter.

The field was full of butterflies: Angel Wings and Angle Wings, Tiger Swallowtails, Black Swallowtails, RedSpotted Purples, Red Admirals, White Admirals, Wood Nymphs, Compton Tortoiseshells, American Painted Ladies, the Question Mark and the Comma, Common Cabbage and Sul-

It is a lesson of empathy—that the living are meant to grow, some to fly away, and we are all the better when we let them.

phur butterflies, Blues, Checkerspots and Skippers (whose antennae differ from butterflies), and my favorite, mostly for its dramatic name: the Great Spangled Fritillary.

My parents gave me a field guide at the age of 10 that introduced the

lepidopterist’s scientific manner of study, capturing specimens, euthanizing them in a jar, then framing them behind glass. I took on the mantel of “lepidopterist,” following protocol and framing specimens until I had a collection that over the years included nearly every species I knew, except the Milbert’s Tortoise Shell, which eluded me.

Butterflies evolve with encoded behaviors and sensitivities, beginning as tiny eggs that break open into little, voracious caterpillars who plump themselves on vegetation until the day they attach to the underside of plants, bark or other protected sites.

They grow until their skin splits, dropping off to reveal the flexible chrysalis whose outer shell will dry and harden, forming a protective shell in which the encased butterfly can grow. In time, an emerging adult cracks its shell, wet and crinkled, hanging upside-down to inflate the wings with blood—wings made of two chitinous membranes, supported and nourished through tubular veins that allow oxygen exchange, like breathing. Once inflated, the wings dry, covered with thousands of hairs and tiny overlapping chitin scales (in Greek, Lepidoptera means "scale-wing”) including, on the male’s forewing, unique scent scales4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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9/3/20 3:24 PM

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essay | up in michigan

that produce pheromones to attract females. Once fully inflated and dry, the adult magically takes flight; but if tattered or stripped of scales, the wings cannot repair themselves, they struggle and die.

I’m grateful for their symbolism, as nature instructs, and for the understandings that began by watching their miraculous transformations, from egg to caterpillar, caterpillar to cocoon or chrysalis, to the emergence of the adult, the mating dances, then the return to egg, and only in the environs each species requires.

Because of butterflies and other insects, my eyes opened to the churning, inter-webbed runes of the natural world, with the overcoming sensation born of consciousness of vast relationships between the kingdoms, phyla, classes, orders, families, genus and species of interdependent creatures and the realities of predation. From then on, a natural consciousness and sensitivity drew me to others who needed the outdoors, and repelled me from those who did not.

In my teens, the field was bulldozed for apartments, and it struck me in the stomach, that with the loss of habitat, butterflies could disappear from our world. I felt perhaps I, too, was to blame, confronting the futility and harm that comes with the desire to possess, a lesson I would forget and relearn for the rest of my life. It is a lesson of empathy—that the living are meant to grow, some to fly away, and we are all the better when we let them.

James McCullough teaches writing and literature at North Central Michigan College.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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9/3/20 3:25 PM

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9/9/20 10:33 AM

HOW TO POLISH PETOSKEY STONES LIKE A PRO Fall is the best season for rock hunting—high winds (you’ve heard of the gales of November) and waves are constantly bringing new stones to shore. So, head out to your favorite beach in search of our state’s prized Petoskey, then exercise that good ol’ Midwestern work ethic and get to polishing your finds (it’s an arm workout!).

TEXT BY KATHRYN DAVIS | PHOTO BY GAIL SNABLE

SUPPLIES

DIRECTIONS

» 220-, 400- and 600-grit sandpaper You’ll find these at your local hardware store.

Choose a variety that still works when wet.

» Some people like to round off their stones first. You can use a file to shave the stone into the desired shape. If you want to keep your stone au naturel, skip this step.

» A file This will only be necessary if you choose to round or reshape your stone.

» After your stone has been shaped, dunk the Petoskey in the bowl of water and begin sanding the damp stone with 220-grit paper. This sandpaper is the roughest of the three and should be used to rid the stone of any obvious scratches or unsightly patches. Rub the sandpaper against the stone in a steady, circular motion until the stone’s whole surface has been sufficiently scoured. This first sanding is the most important and should be performed thoroughly. This stage of sanding took us the longest—it can take up to several hours, depending on how large your Petoskey is. When you’re done, rinse and dry the stone, then dump out the dirty water and refill the bowl.

» A towel or several layers of newspaper Things are going to get a little wet. »

A piece of corduroy or velvet fabric We used red velvet and found that our stone was stained from the dyes in the fabric. Choose a more neutral-toned fabric to avoid this.

»

Polishing powder or compound You can purchase products made specifically for rock polishing (we did), but many car-finishing rubbing compounds will work just as well.

»

A container of water A bowl or small basin will do. You’ll need to empty and refill your container with clean water several times throughout the process.

RULES OF ROCK HUNTING Remember, it's illegal to take stones from national parks or lakeshores such as Sleeping Bear Dunes, Pictured Rocks and Isle Royale. If you're rocking hunting on state-owned land, you cannot remove more than the aggregate total weight of 25 pounds, per individual per year of any rock, mineral specimen (exclusive of any gold-bearing material), or invertebrate fossil for individual or non-commercial hobby use.

» Repeat this process using the 400-grit sandpaper to work out any scratches left by the 220-grit paper. Rinse and dry the stone.

Replace the water in the bowl. » Finish sanding with the 600-grit paper. When you think you’ve done a thorough job and the stone looks and feels smooth, rinse it and continue sanding for 5–10 more minutes. » Examine the stone for any remaining scratches. Don’t polish your stone until all abrasions are gone. » Apply a small amount of polishing powder or compound to a piece of corduroy or velvet, then use the fabric to work the polishing product into the stone in a circular motion. When you’ve thoroughly polished the stone’s entire surface, wipe it with a clean, dry cloth and let the polish dry. » Admire your work, and find a special place to display your hand-polished Petoskey stone! (This was our favorite part.)

Kathryn Davis is a former Traverse Magazine intern.

VIDEO | We walk you through each step in a one-minute how-to video at MyNorth.com/PolishAPetoskey

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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MCGULPIN POINT LIGHTHOUSE & HISTORIC SITE 28

MyNorth.com

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9/3/20 7:53 PM

MCGULPIN POINT LIGHTHOUSE & HISTORIC SITE GET THERE // 500 Headlands Rd., Mackinaw City McGulpin Point Lighthouse & Historic Site is located adjacent to The Headlands International Dark Sky Park, west of Mackinaw City.

LIGHTHOUSE

COLOR TOUR THREE GREAT LAKES LIGHTHOUSES. THREE SHORESIDE TOWNS. PICK ONE AND MAKE IT A DAY TRIP, OR SPEND A LONG WEEKEND VISITING THEM ALL.

TEXT BY CARLY SIMPSON PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

LIGHTHOUSE LORE // McGulpin Point Lighthouse and its keepers helped ships navigate the treacherous waters in the Straits of Mackinac from 1869–1906. Emmet County purchased it from private owners in 2008 and extensively restored it, including replacing the light and its enclosed lantern room. The county also added a barn near the lighthouse with additional history displays inside.

One of the lighthouse’s most notable keepers, James Davenport, was transferred to McGulpin Point in September 1879, serving for 27 years until the station was discontinued. The following story was researched and written by Terry Pepper, a beloved lighthouse expert, author and former executive director of the Great Lakes Lighthouse Keepers Association, who passed away in 2019: December 5, 1893, was a particularly eventful one at McGulpin Point when the wooden propeller Waldo A. Avery caught fire while passing through the Straits. By the time the vessel was off McGulpin Point, the fire was raging so badly that to save his crew, the captain steered the vessel toward the lighthouse at full steam. Keeper Davenport had left the station for Mackinaw City earlier in the day, and with the passing of his wife two years prior, his nine children were alone at the station.

Accustomed to lighthouse life, the children were a resourceful group, and prepared for the care of the survivors. Imagine the fear in the children’s hearts as they saw the crew members fighting for their lives on the approaching vessel.

Alerted to what was going on, Davenport rushed back to the station with a number of Mackinaw City residents. With the vessel’s lifeboat burned and unusable, numerous trips to the burning boat were made with the lighthouse station’s small skiff, until all 17 crew members had been brought to safety.

The Lighthouse Board officially authorized the discontinuance of McGulpin Point on November 12, 1906, and keeper Davenport climbed the stairs to exhibit his light for the last time on the closing of the navigation season on December 15 of that year. The station was boarded-up and the lantern and lens removed, with Davenport serving as caretaker for a few weeks until his transfer to Mission Point Lighthouse, where he continued to serve until his retirement in 1917.

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DID YOU KNOW? // Four hundred years ago, pilgrims arrived on the Mayflower in present-day Massachusetts, and Plymouth Rock became a symbol of American settlement. However, 405 years ago, when French explorers were traveling the Straits of Mackinac by canoe, they were using a rock at least five times the size of Plymouth’s as a navigational aid and also to gauge water levels. The little-known McGulpin Rock, which has a height of 9 feet and weighs 54 tons, has been used since at least 1615

by French explorers, and Native Americans observed it much earlier. Note: Due to high water levels in the Great Lakes, the massive rock is now nearly underwater. Only the top 10–12 inches are visible at this time from the beach at McGulpin Point.

MAKE IT A DAY ➻D INE // Audie’s Restaurant (audies.com) has been serving guests since the Mighty Mac was built— desserts are always homemade and the whitefish is delivered fresh from the Great Lakes daily. Dine in or place an order to-go for a picnic with fall color views at Alexander Henry Park. The park has front-row views of the Mackinac Bridge, and at the beach you can even walk underneath a portion of the 26,372-foot structure. ➻ ATTRACTIONS // The park is set between Colonial Michilimackinac and Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse, both operated by Mackinac State Historic Parks and open through October 11 (mackinacparks.com). ➻ TIP // Don’t forget your camera; the tree-filled park lets you capture the lighthouse, Mackinac Bridge and fall color all in one frame.

WHEN THE LIGHTHOUSE WAS TRANSFERRED ACROSS THE CHANNEL TO THE SOUTH PIER IN AUGUST 1911, IT WAS PAINTED RED.

VISIT // The lighthouse is open daily from May 15October 31 (admission is $3 per person; children under 5 are free). There’s a view of the Mackinac Bridge from the tower, a gift shop, several picnic tables and a cottage next to the lighthouse that’s available for overnight rental.

Due to COVID-19, only one family/household is permitted inside the lighthouse and gift shop at a time, and masks must be worn inside public buildings. An approximately 0.1-mile Discovery Trail leads from the top of the bluff near the lighthouse down to the waterfront, with five stations along the way sharing the human history of the area, which dates back 9,000 years to when Native Americans lived near the water on what’s now called McGulpin Point. mcgulpinpoint.org

CHARLEVOIX SOUTH PIER LIGHTHOUSE GET THERE // Access the south pier from Lake Michigan Beach Park (95 Grant St.) in Charlevoix, or follow the sidewalk along Round Lake channel, located off downtown’s Bridge Street, where the Charlevoix Memorial Bridge crosses the channel.

LIGHTHOUSE LORE // The Charlevoix South Pier Lighthouse is thought to be one of the most photographed on the Great Lakes, for the simple reason it’s so easy to get to. “Seen against our million-dollar sunsets, it has to have been caught on camera millions of times over the past century,” says Charlevoix Historical Society Curator David L. Miles.

Today, three groups work together to care for the iconic lighthouse: it’s owned by the City of Charlevoix, maintained and preserved by the Charlevoix Historical Society and operated by the United States Coast Guard (the light and fog signals are still actively used for navigation).

When the Historical Society came on board in 2006, major restorations began—re-glazing the black lantern (it’s the original, believe it or not, David says, from 1885), removing an enormous amount of rust, replacing rotted walls and fixing other structural deterioration.

The Historical Society is also responsible for painting the lighthouse its now well-known fire-engine red.

But, the lighthouse hasn’t always been red, or located on the south pier. It actually began life on the north pier, made of wood and painted white (today the 1948 structure is fabricated from steel). When the lighthouse was transferred across the channel to the south pier in August 1911, it was painted red.

In 1968, by order of the federal government, the structure was again painted white. “There was a great hue and cry against it from the townspeople and resorters, but there was nothing they could do about it,” David says.

Nearly 40 years later, when it came time to apply a fresh coat of paint in 2006, the State Historic Preservation Office mandated that it be the historically correct color from 50 years ago (red), or restoration funds wouldn’t be provided. That, in turn, made many people who had only known it as white, equally furious.

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DID YOU KNOW? // In the mid 1900s, one of the station’s foghorns was nicknamed Ferdinand, after the Walt Disney cartoon bull, because it’s rich BAAAAAAAH-boom reverberated across town and sounded like the bellowing of a bull. The current horn is “puny” in comparison, David says.

VISIT // The lighthouse isn’t open to visitors, but the pier is.

And, as we mentioned, sunsets here are incredible. Members of the U.S. Lighthouse Society Passport Program can get their passports stamped at the Charlevoix Historical Society Museum (103 State St., chxhistory.com). Not a member yet? Join the club at uslhs.org/fun/passport-club and start collecting custom stamps when you visit lighthouses, museums and lightships across the U.S. MAKE IT A DAY ➻ HIKE: Soak in panoramic views steeped in red, yellow and orange atop Mt. McSauba, with mighty Lake Michigan as the backdrop. The four-season, 80-acre recreation area has a 0.7-mile trail loop that connects to more than half a mile of beach frontage and an 18-hole disc golf course. (09223 McSauba Rd., cityofcharlevoix.org) ➻ DINE: Cozy up to the bar at Bridge Street Taproom (202 Bridge St., bridgestreettaproom.com). Comfort food reigns at this local pub with 32 taps: Melty mac ‘n’ cheese is served on sourdough sandwiches and hearty soups are made from scratch every day.

MISSION POINT LIGHTHOUSE GET THERE // 20500 Center Rd., Traverse City Mission Point Lighthouse is tucked on the tip of Old Mission Peninsula. Take M-37 until it ends at the light.

LIGHTHOUSE LORE // Mission Point Lighthouse is celebrating its 150th birthday this year. The lighthouse was first lit on September 10, 1870, and decommissioned in 1933 (a buoy with an automatic light sits offshore now).

Seven keepers tended to the light during those years, including Captain John Lane and his wife, Sarah. The Lanes worked together, watching ships, keeping the light burning and caring for the grounds until John died on December 12, 1906. Sarah then became the first and only female keeper in Mission Point’s history, continuing the duties for two years until James Davenport took over (after his post ended at McGulpin Point Lighthouse).

As a keeper, Sarah was expected to light the lamp every evening at sunset, and keep it continually burning until sunrise; trim the wicks every four hours to ensure the light was bright; keep an exact account of the quantity of oil used each night; do household chores and keep the light station in good condition; entertain visitors to the lighthouse; and, of course, rescue sailors in peril. She also had to care for her husband who had poor health for years Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '20

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MCGULPIN POINT

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LIGHTHOUSES ARE ENDLESSLY SUGGESTIVE SIGNIFIERS OF BOTH HUMAN ISOLATION AND OUR ULTIMATE CONNECTEDNESS TO EACH OTHER. — VIRGINIA WOOLF

MCGULPIN POINT CHARLEVOIX

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before he passed away, and raise her daughter, Minnie Lane, who lived at Mission Point Lighthouse with her parents for nine years before marrying, according to the Old Mission Peninsula Historical Society’s records.

During her two years as keeper, Sarah helped with 27 successful rescues. When she retired in December 1908, she had served as an assistant lightkeeper and head lightkeeper for nearly 25 years.

When Mission Point Lighthouse was decommissioned and abandoned by the coastguard in 1933, it was severely vandalized.

In 1939, a retiring lighthouse keeper was offered the lighthouse for $1, but he wasn’t interested. Nearly 10 years later, in 1948, a group of 43 residents of Old Mission Peninsula started a collection, raising approximately $1,900 to purchase the lighthouse and adjacent grounds. The township then purchased it from them, and over the years it has been beautifully renovated.

DID YOU KNOW? // Mission Point Lighthouse is 65 miles from Grand Traverse Lighthouse in Northport and 65 miles from Point Betsie Lighthouse in Frankfort. It sits almost directly on the 45th parallel, halfway between the North Pole and Equator. The imaginary line is a few hundred yards offshore in Grand Traverse Bay. VISIT // At the time of publication, the lighthouse tower isn’t currently open to visitors due to COVID-19. The first floor is open with limited hours, including the gift shop and a museum room; the park (and its miles of hiking and biking trails!) is always open until 10 p.m.

The lighthouse sits near a sandy beach and is surrounded by five acres of wooded township land and hundreds of acres of state land.

Trail maps are posted in the park. Follow the lighthouse on Facebook for updates or visit its website, missionpointlighthouse.com.

MAKE IT A DAY

MISSION POINT

MISSION POINT

➻ DINE: We love the rustic vibes, craft brews and artisan pizzas at Jolly Pumpkin (13512 Peninsula Dr., jollypumpkin.com), and we’re definitely not alone in our adoration. Jolly Pumpkin’s Traverse City location was named one of the top 10 brewpubs in the U.S. in 2018 by USA Today. ➻ SIP: Bowers Harbor Vineyards makes a lighthouse wine, and a portion of its sales are used for restoration projects at Mission Point (2896 Bowers Harbor Rd., bowersharbor.com). Buy a bottle for later and take a glass to enjoy on the patio. It’s a prime spot for sunsets with West Grand Traverse Bay twinkling behind vineyard rows, and neighboring trees lending bright pops of orange, red and yellow to the scene. ➻ DRIVE: M-37 (also known as Center Road) makes for a fabulous fall color drive. On your way up to the lighthouse, stop at Pelizzari Natural Area (6852 Center Rd., gtrlc.org) to hike some or all of the nearly 3 miles of trails through wide meadows and fields, former orchards and quiet forests (hunting isn’t allowed here, so don’t worry about wearing orange). Farther up the peninsula, pull over at the Center Road Scenic Overlook, located next to Chateau Grand Traverse Winery.

Carly Simpson is the editor of the wildly popular email newsletter The Daily Splash.

Subscribe at MyNorth.com/Newsletters // David Weidner is a commercial and landscape photographer who resides in the Northwoods of Michigan.

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LEHTO’S

Legendary Pasties. Still the Real Deal.

The perfect golden-brown, savory pasty awaits you in the U.P. No gravy needed.

TEXT BY CHRIS LOUD // PHOTOS BY ALLISON JARRELL

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MIKE DANIELSON // WRAPPING PASTIES FRESH FROM THE OVEN

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Driving west from St. Ignace along U.S. Route 2 in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, the promise of that above-the-bridge vibe hits in true form as I pass by the first round of chain restaurants.

I’m hungry, but no commercial fast food for me.

I’m in search of a pasty: the U.P.’s most famous food and, as they say up here, the world’s original fast food. That’s why I am headed to Lehto’s. Pasty shops have been coming and going all over the U.P. for decades, with some popping up below the bridge in the mitten, but few have stayed true for as long as Lehto’s.

For those who don’t know, a true pasty is a hearty handheld pastry packed with comforting ingredients like beef, potatoes and other root vegetables and is built to match those that the earliest miners in the U.P. carried in their lunch pails, or even their pockets.

There is agreement that true pasties include rutabaga, the ingredient that most consider to be the deal-breaker on whether it’s a real pasty or something else entirely. After that main ingredient, the debate over what makes a true pasty continues to rage. The way Lehto’s makes their pasties, inside and out, has a lot to do with why they’re often recognized as one of the purest, true-to-form pasty shops you can find. Lehto’s has two locations now, with a new spot in downtown St. Ignace, and the original located about eight miles west of the Mackinac Bridge on Route 2. I decide to visit the original location first.

As soon as you see the jutting sign at the original Lehto’s, you know this is the real deal. The building itself has barely changed since it opened more than 70 years ago. The long history and regional fame dwarf the actual size of the operation. Quickly, the aroma and textures place you at your grandma’s vinyl-topped kitchen table. It’s a simple, cozy takeout counter, backdropped with black and white photos of family and newspaper clippings.

Owners Bill and Laurie Walker also have some proud displays of their son, Max, a graduate of the U.S. Coast Guard Academy. This is a family business, there’s no mistaking that.

“My wife’s aunt and uncle, Johnny and Cassie, opened the shop up in 1947,” remembers Bill. “Then their daughter and granddaughter worked alongside them here for a long time, and then when they passed away, Dee, my wife’s cousin, took it over. Then, when she passed away, her brother ran it for a year. He approached us, and then we bought it and took it over about five or six years ago.” Lehto’s has been a family-owned business for more than seven decades.

Once inside the shop, Bill gets right to why his pasties are king. “One thing we do is we slice our potatoes and we shred our rutabaga, and it layers easily,” Bill says. “Our pasty, you can eat it out of your hand. It’s not going to fall apart. People that cube or dice their vegetables, you have to really eat that on a plate with a fork. Ours holds together.”

The handheld aspect is more important to its origin than you might think. “That’s what they did in the mines,” Bill says. “That’s the original food. They’d take it down, carrying it in their pocket, and they’d eat it out of their hand down in the mines. It’s supposed to be handheld.”

The pasty, a derivative of a broader family of medieval meat pies, originated in Cornwall on England’s rugged southwestern peninsula. Cornish men and boys going to work underground would grab their pasty as they left home, labeled with their initials written in the dough with a toothpick. That personalized pasty was a comfort down in the dark and dangerous tin and copper mines. In the 1840s, when prospectors began seeking out Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, experienced miners from Cornwall immigrated to help develop the mines. They brought the pasty with them and, despite larger waves of immigrants from Italy and Finland, the Cornish pasty stuck as the preferred miners’ food.

Lehto’s tries to stick to the original form as much as possible, while still offering a very select assortment of other options for people who may want to try the concept of a pasty, but aren’t interested in its purest form. For starters, the beef pasty is the original and remains the most popular at Lehto’s. At the new location in downtown St. Ignace, they also offer a chicken and vegetable version in addition to the beef, accommodating dietary restrictions and letting visitors enjoy the closest thing to an original pasty as possible. If you want the true experience, menu limitations and all, the original location offers only the beef pasty.

While there is ongoing debate about the structural integrity and the internal ingredients, the real controversy comes when folks want to introduce a condiment into the formula. Like most proud, regional cuisines, there’s a right way and a wrong way, according to the locals. For instance, in Chicago, you just don’t put ketchup on your Chicago-style hot dog. Or, depending on what region you get your ribs, if there’s a dry rub, it might be insulting to ask for sauce. For Lehto’s, and most of the Upper Peninsula, the condiment choice is ketchup, or you eat the pasty plain—no gravy. It’s a lot about the intended taste, and the gratuitous addition of sauce is not needed to make it taste good, so it’s also very much a pride thing.

“The theory behind the gravy is that bad pasties need gravy,” Bill says, with a slight grin. “They’re not moist, they need the extra flavor. If somebody asked for gravy, Aunt Cass would say, ‘My pasties don’t need gravy.’ ” Today, one of the things Lehto’s does to bridge the gap between staunch purist and pleasing the customer is to make intentional Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '20

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KASTEN BELONGA // PREPARING A TRAY OF PASTIES FOR THE OVEN

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decisions on what to offer, what to suggest and what to just not make available. Bill and Laurie want people to enjoy the experience, and in their eyes, the enjoyment comes from not just the taste and service but also from understanding the roots and the original concept. The philosophy behind the pasty from the very beginning was to provide a bit of comfort while away from home, and Bill wants to offer that. Since pasty shops below the bridge offer gravy, Lehto’s customers from downstate prefer what they are used to. “We added gravy,” Bill admits. “We see a lot of gravy in the summer and then when summer’s over, the gravy sales go down, quite a bit. So, it’s the down-staters that come up who want the gravy.”

At the original location, I set my eyes on the comically small menu. A beef pasty, optional gravy side (yes, they charge for this, and you know why) and a pop or water. That’s the entire menu. So, after much deliberation, I ordered the beef pasty, no gravy. It was deeply comforting, and truly handheld, just what I was expecting after my chat with Bill. What was surprising was how flavorful it was, just as is. Going no gravy is not for the sake of being true to form—Lehto’s beef pasty really doesn’t need gravy. If you want to try other options, the menu does suggest going to the downtown St. Ignace location.

They haven’t steered me wrong yet, so I figure I might as well follow this final suggestion and check out their new digs.

The St. Ignace location is bright, modern and inviting, but for the most part, structured the exact same way as the original location.

A simple takeout counter, and a brief menu. For the sake of this article, I ordered all three options—chicken, veggie and another beef. I also got a side of ketchup this time, just to test the waters.

However, I did NOT get gravy. I will only do so below the bridge, and only if suggested by the specific pasty chef I patronize.

I enjoyed the chicken and veggie options. They were surprisingly quite a bit different from the original beef. I took that as a sign that Lehto’s is not in the business to recreate the original pasty. If they’re going to make new versions, they’re going to be brand new, stand-alone pasties. Despite how tasty the chicken and veggie pasties were, I have to admit the original beef is my favorite. There’s just something about it, beyond the taste, that brings it all together. They also offered a cookie, which again, I had to try for the sake of the story, and it was actually one of the best chocolate chip cookies I’ve had in a while. It fit perfectly with the rest of the menu—simple, comforting, extremely tasty, and, of course … handheld.

Chris Loud is the co-founder of The Boardman Review and writes from Traverse City.

Follow him @cfloud on Instagram // Allison Jarrell is associate editor of Traverse Magazine. allison@mynorth.com

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A HALF CENTURY AFTER SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE WAS ESTABLISHED, PEACE REIGNS IN THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACE IN AMERICA. STORY BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS // PHOTOS BY TAYLOR BROWN

EMPIRE BLUFF TRAIL

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T

he summer I was 5, in 1963, my dad took my brother and me on a hike across the Sleeping Bear Dunes. Somewhere out on that hump of tawny sand and prickly dune grass, I told my dad that I could feel the big mother bear breathing under my feet.

My grandparents lived in Glen Arbor, down the road from the dunes, so I was versed in the Native American legend (well commercialized by tourist shops in the area) of the bear and her cubs.

As the story goes, the mother bear and her two cubs were fleeing a fire in Wisconsin and swam across Lake Michigan. Just offshore of the Leelanau Peninsula, the cubs sank, to rise again as North and South Manitou Islands. Their grieving, exhausted momma made it to the mainland, where she still sleeps, having morphed into the celebrated dune, waiting for the Great Manitou to bring her cubs back to life. I still believed in Santa and the Easter Bunny, so why not this momma bear?

In retrospect, it’s hard not to see that moment as metaphoric: The Sleeping Bear was, indeed, waking up—at least in a political sense. In 1961, Michigan’s Senator Philip Hart had introduced to Congress the first of several versions of a bill to create a new national park encompassing the magnificent coastal dunes that line the shoreline of Benzie and Leelanau counties in northwest Michigan. On October 21, 1970, 50 years ago this month, and nine years after Senator Hart’s first bill, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore was officially created.

TOP: MY BROTHER, MOTHER, GRANDFATHER AND ME IN 1963, IN FRONT OF MY GRANDPARENTS’ BUSINESS, THE BUILDING THAT NOW HOUSES THE WESTERN AVENUE GRILL IN GLEN ARBOR. BELOW: SUMMER OF 1968, NORTH BAR LAKE WHERE MY PARENTS HAD PROPERTY THAT THEY WERE LATER FORCED TO SELL TO THE PARK. MY MOTHER AND I ARE IN THE YELLOW SUITS.

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The on-paper description of this park (a lakeshore is a specific designation for what is actually a national park) reads as 35 miles of Lake Michigan shoreline that stretch north of the town of Frankfort to just south of Leland, punctuated by the towns of Glen Arbor and Empire and by perch-dune bluffs that rise 400 feet or more above the water, 26 inland lakes, the Manitou Islands, two rivers, ancient glacial kettles and moraines, pastoral farmland and beech, maple and white pine forests.

But anyone who has ever been here knows words can’t do this park justice. The beauty of Sleeping Bear, a landscape carved out by glaciers eons ago and shaped by wind and waves ever since, is ephemeral. The crystalline waters of Lake Michigan and Glen Lake (the largest of the inland lakes) are prisms for the sun, reflecting its light back in swaths of blue and green that vary day-to-day, minuteto-minute, in shades from cobalt to aqua, turquoise to sea foam.

That shifting light makes the Manitou Islands feel huge and close one hour—only to steal them away in mist the next. Hiking the trails up to Pyramid and Sleeping Bear points can make you feel almost godlike, hovering as you are over this sweep of shoreline, blue sea and those mighty Manitous. Sleeping Bear’s isn’t the fearsome beauty of western parks like Yosemite or Glacier, nor is it the magnificently sculpted landforms of the southwestern parks. Its sandy beaches remind of Cape Hatteras National Seashore on the Atlantic, except that nothing will bite you in Lake Michigan. Sleeping Bear’s beauty is inspirational but gentle, nurturing, maternal—like that mother bear …

Of course, the entity called Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore is the intersection of this natural beauty with a federal bureaucracy. And from the park’s inception, it has been both a case study in the role of public lands versus private ownership, as well as the more recent debates over preserving natural spaces and opening them for public use. At the ripe old age of 50, the park has weathered these storms, coming light years in this balance.

But that was not always the case. When the men who did the first government reconnaissance for the park back in 1958 saw the dunes for the first time, they were smitten with what they believed was not just a national treasure but also a national secret. The trouble was, the area was no secret to year-round residents and summer homeowners, mostly from Chicago and Detroit, who were already deeply attached to their dunes and lakes. All but several thousand acres (the two small state parks, D.H. Day and Platte River) of what was to become the park, in fact, were privately held.

When, beginning in the 1960s, the federal government burst into the once-quiet communities ready to buy (or condemn and buy, if need be) the land that would make up the new park, landowners seethed with anger. They organized and fought the new park with vengeance, from their town halls, from meetings in the local school gymnasiums and with hundreds upon hundreds of pleading letters to their congressmen.

My own family was split on the issue and more than one argument in my grandparents’ Glen Arbor living room ended with flushed

faces and a troubled silence. My parents, young Ann Arbor liberals, sided with then-Interior Secretary Stewart Udall and his aggressive approach to federal land preservation. (Under Udall’s tenure, four national parks and eight national seashores and lakeshores, including Sleeping Bear, were established.) My grandparents, like virtually all of their neighbors, feared their beautiful, quiet town would be overrun with tourists. But the most troubling issue was the government’s condemnation of private property. As far as they were concerned, that was Communism with a capital C. My parents and grandparents ended up being forced to sell several undeveloped lots on North Bar Lake, that they had hoped to build family cottages on, to the government. But their loss paled in comparison to what other families suffered—suffering that was made worse by land acquisition personnel that, by all accounts, bullied and even lied in order to make their land quotas and budgets.

Imagine the heartbreak of Louis and Marion Warnes, for instance, who had devoted their adult lives to building the Sleeping Bear Dunesmobile Rides and then were forced to close up shop and sell their dune acreage to the park. Or, of the Grosvenor family, who had generations invested in the ferry service to the Manitou Islands—as much a way of life as a business. The family’s docks on the Manitou Islands were condemned, and worse yet, evaluated as vacant rather than higher-valued commercial property. The Grosvenors hired attorneys to fight to have their properties reevaluated. In the end, the government gave them a higher purchase price: “Just enough to pay the attorneys,” Mike Grosvenor says. The Grosvenor family had no choice but to relinquish their independence and transform their business into a National Park Concession to ferry park visitors to the islands.

Those same land acquisition officers also condemned Kathy and Tom Stocklen’s canoe livery on the Platte River. But the couple fought tenaciously for years and eventually won the right to keep their business—as long they never changed the nature of it. “We were working 105 hours a week at the livery and then working on our case—we put 5,000 hours in in two years. It was a sad, sad time. Everyone was treated differently, and they pitted neighbor against neighbor,” Kathy says. The Stocklens have since sold Riverside Canoes, but it remains the only privately held business within the park.

Needless to say, for the park’s first personnel, it was a lonely job—though it had its moments. Pete LaValley, who was hired in March of 1972, recalls freezing in the late winter weather while painting the boarded-up Coast Guard Station in Glen Haven (now the park’s Maritime Museum). The payoff was being the first park personnel to be assigned to South Manitou Island. Often, he had the 8-square-mile island all to himself.

But dealing with the fallout of the land acquisition was tough.

“I understood people’s angst,” he says. “But at times, it came out in very, very harsh ways. We just put our noses to the grindstone and kept going … [we said to ourselves] we’re looking 40 years down the road; that’s where we’re headed.”

CLOCK WISE: PIERCE STOCKING SCENIC DRIVE # 9 // DU NE CLIMB —MARK ER 12 // CANNERY BOATHOUSE MUSEUM FR ANK FORT // SLEEPING B E AR POINT // SOUTH MANITOU ISL AND

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BALANCING THE WILD Sleeping Bear Dunes Deputy Superintendent Tom Ulrich started his job during Christmas of 2002—just after the park had celebrated its 32nd birthday. Ulrich was thrilled that he’d landed a position at Sleeping Bear. “People don’t understand how spectacular this is,” he says, adding that when he tours friends who work at heavy-hitter parks in the West around Sleeping Bear, they are always blown away by its beauty.

But when Ulrich arrived, the park had a big problem: Its preparation of an updated General Management Plan (GMP)—the document guiding each national park—had just been halted due to public outcry. The outcry was over a section in the GMP that included areas marked wilderness that called for closing roads to some popular Lake Michigan beaches and demolishing many of the park’s 360 historical structures. Citizen activists rose up, and the Interior Department halted the plan.

Superintendent Dusty Shultz and Ulrich restarted the GMP process, determined to listen to the public and come up with a suitable plan. The first years were contentious, recalls Jeannette Feeheley, who presided over a group called Citizens for Access to the Lakeshore. Over the course of the next few years, however, Ulrich gave more than a hundred presentations to some 3,000 people—and listened to their comments.

By the end of the process, both parties had grown to respect each other—and more importantly, they had a GMP they all agreed on.

The resulting wilderness bill was ultimately passed with bipartisan support by Congress in 2014—and congressional testimony from Feeheley herself. Beyond reshaping the wilderness to maintain road access to beaches, while still ensuring outstanding opportunities for hunting, hiking, paddling, mushrooming and other quiet recreation, the new GMP also protects all of the park’s 360 farms and buildings.

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACE IN AMERICA On a June day in 2011, I sat at a table at Blu, a restaurant on Sleeping Bear Bay in Glen Arbor, opposite a young producer, Sabrina Parise, from “Good Morning America.” She’d flown in from New York City to shoot footage of Sleeping Bear because the park had just won the network’s “Most Beautiful Place in America,” contest.

The folks in her Big Apple office, she told me, were surprised by the fact that Sleeping Bear had come out the winner of the nomination list that included internationally famous places including Point Reyes, California; Lanikai Beach, Hawaii; Cape Cod, Massachusetts; Aspen, Colorado; Sedona, Arizona and Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming. The fact was, Parise told me, only one person at the GMA office had even heard of Sleeping Bear, and that person was a college intern who had once worked a summer job in Glen Arbor.

When the folks from the GMA office called Sleeping Bear’s visitor center for help in, well, trying to figure out basically where this park was, how to get there and where to stay, Ulrich referred them to this magazine—as we have been extensively celebrating and protecting Sleeping Bear since Deb Wyatt Fellows founded

Traverse Magazine in 1981. Since I live bull’s-eye in the middle of Glen Arbor, I got the tour guide job. It was all very exciting—except that, on that first day of Parise’s visit, Sleeping Bear was acting more like a petulant cub than the beautiful beloved momma bear: A gray haze had settled over the dunes and the bay, casting a gloomy, nondescript mood.

By the next morning, the haze had lifted and Parise got a visual lesson in why Sleeping Bear won her network’s award.

The award elicited conflicting emotions for those of us who live in the area. On one hand, it was a powerful affirmation of just how special Sleeping Bear is. On the other, of course, the publicity was sure to translate into crowds. Indeed, the GMA award boosted the park’s visitor numbers from 1.2 million to 1.5 million annually.

“Some people think that the numbers doubled after the award,” Ulrich says. “They didn’t. But it did put the park in the national consciousness. It used to be mostly known in the upper Midwest, now it is known across the nation.”

Of course, the majority of those 300,000 extra visitors, as is the case with the rest of the 1.2 million, mostly show up in July and August, crowding the small downtowns and rural highways.

When Scott Tucker, the park’s present superintendent, arrived in 2016, solving local issues created by that congestion was high on his agenda. One means to that end is the Sleeping Bear Gateways Council, made up of representatives from the National Park Service, local governments, businesses, chambers of commerce and individuals. (Ironically, the Gateways Council, renamed in 2018, began its life in the 1970s as the Citizens Council of the Sleeping Bear Dune Area that fought so vehemently against the park.)

Partnering with the local communities has certainly helped calm old frustrations about the park. But more than anything, the simple fact that this precious landscape remains, preserved in perpetuity, is what has mellowed opinions about it most of all. “I believe we all appreciate the fact that this area didn’t become over-developed,” says Mike Grosvenor. “I don’t know as I’d have wanted to trust all of the development to a bunch of investors. Left to its own, the Manitou Islands would have been destroyed, unquestionably. There were already people subdividing South Manitou.”

Even Kathy Stocklen has praise for the park. “It was never about the park in general,” she says of her struggle to keep her business.

“It is a lovely asset to our fragile, rural area.”

As Superintendent Tucker sees it, with most old wounds healed now, his main job is to stay the beautiful course. “My goal is that when Sleeping Bear celebrates its 100th anniversary, the park will look exactly the same then as it does today,” he says.

And that’s something no one in Sleeping Bear is arguing over.

Elizabeth Edwards is the managing editor at Traverse Magazine. lissa@traversemagazine.com // Taylor Brown graduated in May 2019 from the Great Lakes Maritime Academy in Traverse City. He’s now a civilian merchant marine officer licensed to work aboard commercial ships on the Great Lakes and oceans. Follow his adventures on Instagram at @tayderbrown.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | OCT '20

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Volume 26

For the way you live Up North

•

Number 5

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2020

contents 8

44

42

32

features 22 Kitchen with a View 26 I ntroducing the Northern Home & Cottage 2020 Virtual Tour

28 The New Chalet

30 New Urban Cottage

32 Home Sweet Hygge Home

departments 36

38

42

44

46

Up North Cottage Update

7

Prairie Style and Green Nouveau Farmhouse Tree House Soft English Accent

8

Editor’s Note For Every Challenge, an Opportunity orthern Moods N Bring Autumn Inside

10 C ollections Three-Season Rooms to Stretch Porch Season

Click on Live Here >Home Ideas

Northern Home & Cottage

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A MyNorth Media Publication

PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF

Deborah Wyatt Fellows

CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER

Michael Wnek

MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL AND CONTENT EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist Kim Schneider Tim Tebeau Andrew VanDrie Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr Rachel Watson Claire Houser

WEB DIRECTOR

Jen Berigan

DIRECTOR OF SALES

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MARKETING COORDINATOR MYNORTH TICKETS CUSTOMER SUCCESS SPECIALIST OFFICE MANAGER BOOKKEEPER

Kara Jarvis

Emily Oakes Libby Stallman Kim Stewart

From the Publisher of

Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 S Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 Subscriber Services Visit MyNorth.com/sub to change your address or to review your account.

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COMINS, MICHIGAN

Reprints Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174.

Northern Home & Cottage is published as a supplement to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. 125 S Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. All rights reserved. Copyright 2020, Prism Publications Inc.

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editor’s note

TOMMY GREEN // HYGGE HOME // PAGE 32

What could be more important in your home…?

Knowledge, Quality, Service Free Consultation

For Every Challenge, an Opportunity So, there we were—the staff of Traverse Magazine / Northern Home & Cottage—hunched over our computer screens at a Google Hangout meeting in April. That’s how we have been meeting since we all went remote in March in the new world of COVID-19. This day the question was, what would happen to our beloved annual September/October home tours? Fall seemed so far away back then. Surely this COVID thing would be over … but, what if? And even if it was winding down, would homeowners want crowds of people walking through their house so soon afterward? For that matter, would anyone want to crowd into the houses? So, as streaks of snow fell outside our respective windows that day, we made the decision to cancel the home tours and signed off the meeting resolved to think outside the box (thinking outside the box being something our creative staff is exceptionally good at).

It wasn’t even a week later that our marketing director, Erin Lutke, called another meeting to discuss a virtual tour. It seemed the perfect answer. But, being who we are at MyNorth Media, it couldn’t be just your average Realtor-style pan of the houses. Inspired by HGTV’s Chip and Joanna Gaines and Jonathon and Drew Scott, we hired Greg MacMaster and his Eagle Eye Video Production and Drone Service to make our Northern Home & Cottage 2020 Virtual Home Tour videos. Just as exciting, eight homeowners and their contractors and designers signed on to give our new concept a try. To our absolute delight, most of them were willing to go on camera for us.

The entire production has been exciting, creative and has proved the power of building relationships to get through this COVID thing—even though we all stood six feet away from each other (and wore masks when not on camera!). The result is an intimate tour through eight homes, all beautiful and all distinct from one another.

Find out how to access our Northern Home & Cottage 2020 Virtual Tour on page 26 of this issue. And in the meantime, read my stories on the tour homes. I had as much fun researching and writing them as I always do. I’m sure you are going to love the mix of homes (modern, craftsman, renovations, rustic and more) that we’ve put together for the tour—exactly as we’ve done for 11 consecutive years now …

Stay well, and I’ll see you virtually!

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Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com Northern Home & Cottage

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Kitchen with a View The story of a historic Walloon Lake home with a cloistered kitchen, and the homeowners and their renovation dream team who rescued it.

Text by Elizabeth Edwards

vintage gem, the house designed around a series

Nance came up with a plan for glassing in the screened-in porch,

of octagonals (think Monticello) had nestled onto

and completely removing that load-bearing wall to open up the

a hill overlooking aquamarine-colored Walloon

kitchen to that expansive Walloon Lake view. The plan, of course,

Lake since 1941. Bedecked in red striped

would need to be executed by Birchwood Construction. But no

awnings, the home had been a landmark on

problem there, says co-owner Ken Provost. “It took some head

the lake for decades when a 16-year-old girl

scratching, but it really wasn’t anything we haven’t faced before. We

boating by with a friend pointed it out and told her friend, “I’m going to live there someday.”

do a lot of remodels that involve transferring weights and loads.”

But by far the most dramatic moment of the complicated reno

Flash-forward some years later, and the girl, now married, was

was when the wall came down to reveal a view of Walloon Lake.

boating with her husband, and he pointed to the house and said:

With its new, wide-open space, the kitchen was an open book,

“That’s always been my favorite house. And it was once owned by

waiting for great design. The homeowners, avid skiers, spend time

one of my dad's good friends who passed away years ago."

each year in the French Alps. Those experiences have given them a

No doubt, the young couple shared a sophisticated eye for

passion for the French lifestyle. “Everything is thought about. There

architecture. As they were to learn, the home had been designed

is always something beautiful to look at, to touch and to taste. A

by Charles Noble, who had made a prestigious name for himself

kitchen is not just about, now we are going to feed you.”

designing Art Deco buildings in Detroit, among them the once grand Lee Plaza Hotel and the still hopping Elwood Grill.

Keeping those sentiments, the homeowner also wanted the room grounded in the airy, cottagey style that Walloon Lake homes

By then, the home had been vacant for a number of years, so the

are known for. Kitchen designer Jill Brecheisen helped translate the

young couple decided to look into purchasing it. It turns out the

homeowner’s vision into the elements of this showpiece (though

family members who had inherited it were hoping to find a buyer

not showy) kitchen.

who would treasure it the way their family had. Done deal.

A stained oak floor with 7.5-inch planks and custom milled tri-

That was 22 years ago. “Everyone thought that we would tear

ple-bead wall paneling painted in Benjamin Moore’s Simply White

it down,” the homeowner says. But, of course, that was out of the

set the stage for the kitchen’s embracing efficiency. The Birchwood

question. “It is a love-affair house,” she adds.

team’s careful craftsmanship, which includes built-in shelves and a

But the kitchen was small and outdated. Worst of all, it had no

coffered ceiling, shines throughout.

lake view as a load-bearing wall cloistered it from the inspirational

Brecheisen designed all of the cabinetry as well as the furniture-

Walloon Lake view found through the family room windows and

quality island base made from knotty alder with an Heirloom

screened-in porch just on the other side. Previous contractors had

Finish. With its 2.5-inch deep marble-like quartz countertop and

told the couple the wall could never be removed because of the

Euro-inspired bar stools backed with a Nordic fabric, the island is a

complicated ceiling system based around those octagonal shapes.

fresh take on Old World style.

Enter the Renovation Dream Team: Gary Nance Design,

“We are all in the kitchen, all the time,” says the homeowner,

Birchwood Construction and Jill Brecheisen of Kitchens by Design.

marveling at the fact that the family had lived for 20 years in the

The couple had grown comfortable working with Birchwood’s tal-

home with the cramped, viewless kitchen. “Now there’s this expanse

ented crew on a number of renovations throughout the home. “They

of Walloon Lake all around you … the light and the views; that’s why

are fantastic to work with,” says the homeowner, noting their skill

we live up here.”

and professionalism.

PAID CONTENT

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231-649-1838 • gmottbuilders.com Photo by Trap-Studio

ON THE VIRTUAL TOUR BEGINNING OCTOBER 30TH

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Reel in your dream home.

420 South Division Street • Traverse City 231.932.9700 • www.KitchenChoreography.net

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Your home. Your life. Your memories.

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Northern Home & Cottage

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WELCOME TO THE

Northern Home and Cottage 2020 Virtual Tour Pop the popcorn and put on your cozy clothes—it’s time for an in-depth virtual look inside eight of the North’s coolest homes. (Get a sneak peek of these homes on the following pages of this issue of Northern Home & Cottage!)

The Northern Home and Cottage 2020 Virtual Tour—launching October 30—features contractors, designers and homeowners walking you through eight unique and outstanding homes in Northern Michigan. One by one, they share the thoughts behind each home’s features, point out the details that make each home stand out and reflect upon capturing the dreams of the homeowners.

As always, knowing that the revenue from the tour goes to Child and Family Services of Northwest Michigan, these homeowners have opened their homes to help a child.

It’s this easy:

•

Head to MyNorth.com/Tour20

• Make the suggested donation of $15 to support Child and Family Services of Northwest Michigan and get your ticket.

•

• On October 30, you will receive another email with a link to the virtual tour page.

• Enter your password and you will find all the homes ready to view!

• Want to go back again and again? No problem. The Virtual Tour will stay up until the end of 2020.

Watch for an email with a unique password.

Little Tra verse Bay

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MyNorth.com

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TOUR

WELCOME

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1 LOCATION GLEN ARBOR BUILDER AYERS CONTRACTING AYERSCONTRACTINGLLC@GMAIL.COM

the new chalet THIS FRESH TAKE ON A CLASSIC, COTTAGE STYLE IS A HEAD-TURNER. DEEP BLUE SHIPLAP EXTERIOR SIDING WITH BLACK WINDOWS? OH, YAY!

Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Speckman Photography

Homeowner Marcus Trombetta designed this cottage himself,

cone-shaped gas stove and weathered oak beams from a Michigan

while living in a 275-square-foot apartment in New York City.

barn spanning the cathedral ceiling. The open kitchen is defined

While that may be the inspiration for the home’s streamlined and

by a quartz-topped island with waterfall sides and the range back-

compact efficiency, that’s where the similarity to a Big Apple dwell-

splash made from white subway tiles mounted in a herringbone

ing stops. Set in a grove of trees and just a short walk from the

pattern. The eye candy doesn’t stop there. (Hint: boutique tile in

public Lake Michigan beach in downtown Glen Arbor, the home is

the three bathrooms and nautically inspired two-toned wood floor

a quintessential Up North chalet—with several distinctive twists.

upstairs.)

“I knew I wanted a house that didn’t look like it came from the suburbs where I grew up downstate,” he says.

Bill Ayers of Ayers Contracting built the home. Ayers, Trombetta says, worked through even the trickiest issues (installing the weath-

True to chalet style, the home is a perfect rectangle with a

ered beams with a skytrack!) easily. Beyond that, Trombetta says

facade that “looks like home plate on a baseball diamond,” he says.

Ayers shares his penchant for perfection. "He is absolutely as atten-

Modern-rustic touches that kick up this home’s cool factor include

tive to the details as I am." As Trombetta was only able to be onsite

black-framed windows and front door, cedar shiplap siding and

five times during the entire building process, he was especially

gooseneck barn lights. But it's the unusual choice of dark blue

grateful for Ayers’ clear and consistent communication through

(Anchors Away by Sherwin Williams) for the cedar siding that really

texts, photos and phone calls. But best of all, Ayers finished the

sets this home apart. Originally, Trombetta had envisioned white

project on budget.

siding with black windows—a combination that is trending right

Ayers, in turn, thanks his team of ace subcontractors, including

now. But wanting to make his own unique statement, Trombetta

D & W Mechanical, McMartin Tile & Marble, Kasson Contracting II,

took his color search out of the box and ended up with the blue.

TC Coatings Unlimited and Fortified Coatings, for help that made

While he figured it would be a handsome contrast with the dark

the building process seamless.

windows, what he didn’t count on, he says, is “how striking the dark

Meet Trombetta and Ayers in our Northern Home & Cottage

blue is against the massive hardwoods and pines that surround the

2020 Virtual Tour, as they walk you through this new take on an Up

home.”

North vacation home.

The modern-rustic vibe continues inside with a stunning exposed-aggregate epoxy concrete floor (in-floor heat!), a retro

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2 LOCATION HARBOR SPRINGS DESIGNER/BUILDER COTTAGE COMPANY COTTAGE-COMPANY.COM

new urban cottage OLD-FASHIONED SMALL-TOWN LIVING COMBINES WITH MODERN AMENITIES IN THIS DREAM HOME ON LITTLE TRAVERSE BAY IN HARBOR SPRINGS.

Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Cottage Company

The shady streets of Harbor Springs, lined with Victorian summer

The Mossburgs’ daughter, interior designer Kelly Konoske, outfit-

cottages, look like something out of a storybook. When Rob and Vee

ted the home with her own line of soothing, neutral-toned furniture,

Mossburg headquartered their design-and-build business, Cottage

most upholstered in performance fabric (perfect for a vacation

Company, here more than 20 years ago, they were determined

home’s relaxed living), fun mid-century modern floor lamps and

not to change that, but to develop cottages that are in harmony

two-toned chrome-and-black hardware fixtures.

with it. That philosophy is known as New Urbanism—a term that

The timeless kitchen mixes cottage elements including shiplap

means building and renovating within existing cities and neighbor-

walls and ceiling with a Euro-classic La Cornue Fe Range, a sophis-

hoods to decrease sprawl and to promote old-fashioned, close-knit

ticated marble-like quartz waterfall countertop and transitional

communities.

frameless white cabinetry. A stunning glass-doored hutch, framed

To that end, this white clapboard cottage, with its exposed rafter tails and wide porches, nestles graciously into its neighborhood of

in black, mirrors a black-framed window across the kitchen. “Black doors are big for 2020,” Kelly says.

19th-century Victorian cottages on Bay Street in downtown Harbor

Among the other stellar touches that the Mossburgs will point

Springs. Only the handsome, black-framed windows are a hint that

out in our 2020 Virtual Tour are the master bedroom, with its sooth-

something fresh is going on here. A reno perhaps?

ing color palette and view of Little Traverse Bay; the master bath,

That is precisely the reaction that Rob Mossburg likes to see

where a black-metal-and-glass wall divides the shower and free-

when people view the brand-new home he built on a vacant lot

standing tub area from the vanity area; and the pièce de résistance

at 275 E. Bay Street. Inside, six-inch planked white oak floors and

of this beautiful home—a rooftop deck that looks out over the bay

shiplap walls continue the vintage cottage feel—while providing the

and Harbor Springs’ charming downtown.

backdrop for views of Little Traverse Bay across the street.

Join the Mossburgs as they give you an up-close look at this stunning home on the Northern Home & Cottage 2020 Virtual Tour.

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3 LOCATION TRAVERSE CITY CONTRACTOR G. MOTT BUILDERS GMOTTBUILDERS.COM

home sweet hygge home A YOUNG COUPLE FINDS HAPPINESS (AND SOME UNEXPECTED LUXURIES!) IN A KICKED-UP MODERN VERSION OF A KIT HOME.

Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Trap-Studio

Tommy and Lauren Greene had been searching for a home in Traverse City for several months when Sean Karcher hired their

vision. Beyond that, he was honest, trustworthy and reliable. His follow through was great, and we actually came in under budget.”

company, Trap-Studio (Tommy is a photographer and graphic

The finished product could easily grace the pages of Dwell

designer, and Lauren is a branding expert), to do creative work for

Magazine (the international modern homes magazine, has, in fact,

his company, Hygge Supply. Karcher’s Leelanau-based company

done a story on Hygge Supply). Black on the outside—to please

sells modern, minimalist kit homes. Made from SIP panels, they are

Tommy—and white on the inside for Lauren, the home is bathed in

also highly energy efficient. After learning more about the company,

light from Hygge’s signature floor-to-ceiling windows and extra-tall

Lauren says: “We realized this was the direction we wanted to go, so

ceilings. “It’s like living in a big light box, it’s great for photo work,”

we changed our search from a home to property.”

Lauren says.

Not long after, the couple settled on a wooded piece of land off

The floor plan centers around a great room with a streamlined,

Keystone Road just outside of Traverse City. From blueprint to

efficient kitchen. The master suite is on one end of the room, with

lighting, the Hygge process is streamlined, offering clients a list of

two more bedrooms and a bathroom on the other end. The Hygge

pre-selected choices, all of which have a modern, Scandinavian look

package included some unexpected luxuries, such as a polished

and are often made from eco-friendly, recycled materials. “If you

concrete floor, a wood-burning fireplace, a soaking tub in the

want to build a minimalist home but don’t have the time and energy

master bath and even a high-tech door lock that works via your

to focus on it, it’s a great way to go,” says Lauren.

thumbprint.

The Hygge kit comes with all the parts and pieces, but it still

Join the Greenes and Gary Mott as they tour you through this

needs to be built from the ground up. For that job, the Greenes hired

fresh take on building your dream house in our Northern Home and

Gary Mott of G. Mott Builders. “We met with him and immediately

Cottage 2020 Virtual Tour.

clicked,” says Lauren. “We found him to really understand our

Northern Home & Cottage

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231-932-9700 • KitchenChoreography.net Photo by Speckman Photography

Read our story on page 36!

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34

MyNorth.com

NHC 3 G.Mott Builders.indd 34

9/9/20 12:45 PM

TUNE INTO

Real Estate Entertainment TV

Northern Michigan

STYLE

TM

Now tour our design showrooms

VIRTUALLY

Catch it on...

Produced and Operated

by Eagle Eye Video Production and Drone Service. Official Videographer of the Northern Home & Cottage 2020 Virtual Home Tours!

BUILDING CENTERS & DESIGN SHOWROOMS PETOSKEY | HARBOR SPRINGS | GAYLORD | TRAVERSE CITY

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Northern Home & Cottage

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4 LOCATION LELAND DESIGNER/BUILDER KITCHEN CHOREOGRAPHY KITCHENCHOREOGRAPHY.NET

up north cottage update SHIPLAP AS THE NEW BEADBOARD SHINES IN THIS RELAXED BUT SOPHISTICATED RENO OF A 1990S COTTAGE ON THE LEELANAU PENINSULA.

Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Speckman Photography

Andrew and Elaine Oliver were living in Hong Kong when they

That cohesive working relationship shines in the finished renova-

came across a Zillow listing that sounded like it was exactly the

tion—from the new reclaimed chestnut floors, to the cooks’ dream

summer home they’d spent years searching for. The 1990s cottage

kitchen outfitted with a generous quartzite-topped island and new

might have needed some updating, but its bones were good, and

creamy-white cabinetry. The pièce de résistance of this kitchen,

importantly, it was a quarter mile from Andrew’s mother’s house,

however, is what Elaine calls, “my husband’s kitchen,”—a pantry

across from his grandfather’s and near an uncle and cousins.

tucked into the space left after a built-in desk was removed and

Beyond all of that, the lot was very private. The couple bought the

a two-foot space was taken out of a closet in a bedroom on the

home, sight unseen.

opposite wall. The pantry—with its subway tile walls and barn-

After they’d spent some time in the home, they thought—maybe

wood sliding barn door—beautifully houses all manner of cooking

a new wood floor to replace the old laminate floor? And that down-

gadgetry, from coffee-making equipment to Andrew’s sous vide and,

draft from the hood vent over the range was irritating ... “Everything

yes, his canning equipment.

kind of snowballed from there,” Elaine says.

The rest of the home shares the relaxed modern farmhouse vibe,

Besides being avid cooks (among his other culinary talents,

including shiplap that replaces all drywall, a fun use of wallpaper

Andrew cans), the couple also loves collecting art and furniture.

(swallows on the wall-papered ceiling of the laundry room!) and an

So, they were both very invested in how they wanted their home to

upstairs children’s bunk room with six built-in bunks.

look and feel. They took their ideas to contractor Bob Biggs of Biggs

Join Angela Goodall as she reveals more of this smart, stylish

Construction and architect Mark Humitz of Cornwell Architects—

renovation on our Northern Home & Cottage 2020 Virtual Tour.

they, in turn, steered the couple toward adding Angela Goodall of

Tip: Watch carefully to discover the Kitchen Choreography secret to

Kitchen Choreography to the design-and-build team. It turned out

shiplap walls in the shower!

to be a key piece of advice: “She and her team were amazing,” says Elaine. “Angela gave us technical guidance and we had a fabulous design collaboration.”

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5 LOCATION LONG LAKE BUILDER MAPLERIDGE CONSTRUCTION MAPLERIDGE.US

prairie style and green QUESTION: CAN A STUNNING, LIGHT-FILLED HOME ALSO BE ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY AND SUPER HEALTHY TO LIVE IN? ANSWER: THE DAHLSTROM HOME ON LONG LAKE.

Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Speckman Photography

With its hip roof, overhanging eaves and stone-and-timber exte-

ceiling fans and the cross ventilation from four sliding glass doors

rior, Rick and Kate Dahlstrom’s home looks as though it could have

in the living room and one 12-foot slider that opens up to 6 feet wide

been built near the beginning of the last century, during the Prairie-

in the adjacent dining room.

style movement of architecture. Behind all of that gracious style, however, are some cutting-edge green building techniques.

Of course, all those sliding glass doors mean light pours into the great room, making it anything but the heavy, dark spaces that

A green, health-conscious home was the single most important

traditional Prairie-style homes tend to be. And whether the doors

item on the Dahlstroms’ wish list when they planned the home,

are open or not, you’ll breathe easy in this home with its sustain-

says Kate, who credits Mapleridge Construction with getting the

able and low-VOC products: carpet, hickory flooring, paint, stain

message: “They were very knowledgeable and open to working with

and polyurethane. Rick and Kate are particularly grateful to Elite

what we wanted.”

Custom Painting, who did the painting and staining, because they

Among the green products used in the home is a highly energy-

“bent over backward to use zero- to low-VOC products.”

efficient fully-adhered house wrap (versus the stapled-on type) that

While that might all read a little like broccoli, this home doesn’t

really keeps out ice and water. Layered on top of that is two inches

lack for Hollandaise sauce—so to speak!—it includes a gorgeous

of rigid foam insulation. All that snugness is finished off with a

sunroom, a loft with a balcony overlooking the lake, numerous

combination of spray foam insulation and blown cellulose insula-

live-edged shelves and walls, many made from wood felled from the

tion. “It’s likely double the energy efficiency of an average home,”

property, and a to-die-for wine room.

says Karl Hitchcock, project manager for Mapleridge Construction.

Meet the Dahlstroms and the Mapleridge team as they tour you

While the home has air conditioning, the homeowners only plan

through this beautiful home on our Northern Home & Cottage 2020

to use it in exceptional humidity, relying instead on a number of

Virtual Home Tour.

Northern Home & Cottage

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NHC 5 Mapleridge.indd 40

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TRILLIUM Custom Homes www.trilliumshore.com Photo by Jacqueline Southby

Read our story on page 46!

View This Home ON THE VIRTUAL TOUR BEGINNING OCTOBER 30TH Buy Tickets: mynorth.com/tour

TOUR

231-218-6849 • snorrisconstruction.com Photo by Speckman Photography

Read our story on page 44!

EMMET

ON THE VIRTUAL TOUR BEGINNING OCTOBER 30TH

Across from the Airport 8737 Hwy M-119 & Petoskey, MI 49770 231-348-5959 CO.

BRIC K BLOCK

View This Home Buy Tickets: mynorth.com/tour

TOUR

www.emmetbrick.com Northern Home & Cottage

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6 LOCATION OLD MISSION PENINSULA BUILDER PAUL MAURER GENERAL CONTRACTING PAULMAURER.COM INTERIOR DESIGNER PAIGE LEE INTERIORS PAIGELEEINTERIORS.COM

nouveau farmhouse A 1990S HOUSE ON OLD MISSION PENINSULA GETS A MAKEOVER THAT BREATHES NEW LIFE INTO A HOME THAT WAS BORN WITH GOOD BONES.

Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Speckman Photography

Sometimes in a renovation project, one thing naturally leads to

a planner,” she says. “And then you realize how invaluable one is.”

another … that was the case when Anne and Tom Peterson hired

And that was exactly what Anne found working with the designer

Paul Maurer General Contracting and interior designer Paige

she hired, Paige Maurer of Paige Lee Interiors. Beyond being a

Maurer to update the master bathroom in the home they had

wealth of knowledge about products, resources and style, “she kept

recently purchased. The couple loved the house, built in 1996, for

everything moving,” says Anne.

its floor plan (main floor master, room for their children and grand-

A month into the project, the Petersons realized that as long as

child to visit…) and its setting in Old Mission Peninsula’s wine and

the home was ripped up, maybe they should tackle updating the

orchard country. But that master bath with its carpet and small

kitchen, too; and if they did the kitchen, then maybe it was time to

shower enclosure? It needed some work.

update the entire great room. Paige and PMGC signed on.

New to the area, Anne began noticing trucks emblazoned with

The end product would make Chip and Joanna Gaines swoon—

the Paul Maurer General Contracting logo parked in front of beauti-

right down to the custom shiplap range hood and fireplace mantel.

ful homes under construction. Though she worried that the job was

The original red oak floors in the kitchen and great room, now

too small and their timeline too tight (they’d purchased the home

stained a pale gray, pull together creamy white cabinetry and a

in June and wanted the bathroom finished before they moved in, in

generous quartz island. And that master bathroom? It makes the

August), she gave them a call. Yep, PMGC could get their job done.

Petersons feel like they are staying in a luxury hotel.

Anne also did something she has never done before: she hired an interior designer to help her with the project. At first, Anne admits,

Join Paige as she points out many more of this home’s beautiful elements on our Northern Home & Cottage 2020 Virtual Tour.

she was reluctant to spend the extra money on a designer. “It’s like if you are getting married and you wonder if it’s really worth it to hire

Northern Home & Cottage

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7 LOCATION CEDAR BUILDER SCOTT NORRIS CONSTRUCTION SNORRISCONSTRUCTION.COM

tree house WESTERN RED CEDAR, MAPLE AND WHITE PINE BLEND NATURALLY IN THIS NEW HOME TUCKED INTO THE WOODS ON CEDAR LAKE.

Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Speckman Photography

After spending his career as a forestry professor, wood has a

of the light reflected off the lake that pours in through generous

special meaning for Kurt Pregitzer. So, when he and his wife, Maria,

windows, and the clear lacquer seal used on the butter-colored

began envisioning their retirement home, they knew it would

maple floors and creamy white-washed pine ceiling and beams.

include plenty of wood, both as a nod to his career and to blend in with their wooded site on Cedar Lake, just west of Traverse City.

To that end, the Pregitzers chose builder Scott Norris of Scott Norris Construction and his son, designer Caleb Norris, to build

Like so many things about this house, built on property that has been in Maria’s family for 40 years, the white pine has extra-special meaning: It was harvested from a pine plantation that her father planted the year she was born.

and design their home. The father and son have forged their careers

An open kitchen, featuring black granite countertops, maple

creating homes that utilize natural materials and are highly energy

upper cabinets and deep-gray bottom and island cabinets, rounds

efficient—another quality that was important to the Pregitzers.

out the great room. In the master bath, Swedish-blue tiles play on

Clad in western red cedar from Idaho (where Kurt finished his

the home’s simple, Nordic spirit. A walk-out lower level features a

career as Dean of the College of Natural Resources at University

handsome, exposed-aggregate polished concrete floor—the perfect

of Idaho, after teaching at both Michigan State and Michigan

floor covering to lead to the cedar sauna outfitted with a changing

Tech), the finished home feels completely natural set on a knoll

area and walk-in shower.

surrounded by maple, beech and pines. Black window frames and

There is much more to see and hear about in this truly unique

deck railings fashioned from black steel and wire add handsome,

home. Join Scott and Caleb Norris and the homeowners as they

rustic-industrial touches.

walk you through the house on our Northern Home & Cottage 2020

While an abundance of wood sometimes makes interiors feel

Virtual Tour.

dark, this great room is anything but, thanks to a combination

Northern Home & Cottage

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8 LOCATION SUTTONS BAY BUILDER TRILLIUM SHORE CUSTOM HOMES TRILLIUMSHORE.COM

a soft english accent THIS BRAND-NEW HOME EMBODIES A COZY EUROPEAN AESTHETIC.

Text by Elizabeth Edwards // Photos by Speckman Photography and Jamie Wilkins

Driving up the winding driveway to this stunning home in

ends in the blue swath of West Grand Traverse Bay. A spot of tea

Leelanau wine country, you're struck by the way it looks as though

here in the afternoon, or a sip of sherry in the evening would be oh,

it's been on this hillside for generations. A stone chimney and a

so lovely.

wrought iron balcony speak of older generations, while bands of red

The master bedroom has the same view and soothing calm that

brick and honey-colored cedar siding feel more contemporary. The

is echoed in the master bath, where a soaker tub with its own leafy

lovely fusion of periods is particularly fitting for the homeowner,

view, “was totally worth blowing the budget for,” Hazel says.

Hazel Brown, who comes from Sheffield, England, but recently

As absolutely soothing and effortless as those views are, Hazel

moved to Northern Michigan with her husband, Regis, by way of

credits builder Jamie Wilkins of Trillium Shore Custom Homes with

Burbank, California—just as the home was finished. “We are so

enhancing them. “He made the foundation just a bit higher to take

excited to be here—we plan to be here year-round,” says Hazel.

in more view,” she says.

And no doubt, the couple will be cozy come winter. Just inside

Indeed, Wilkins’ precise eye and dedication to his craft are found

the front door, the efficient kitchen feels as snug as an English

throughout the home. “We always had a clear vision of the style

cottage with its stained white oak floor, under-mounted farmhouse

and layout of our house, so our biggest challenge was finding the

sink, rustic leathered countertops and classic British AGA dual-fuel

right contractor to bring that to life,” explains Hazel. "Jamie is a very

range. The range backsplash, a tiled replica of Van Gogh's famous

visual, design-driven builder, and we immediately knew he was the

painting, "Poppies" (Hazel’s favorite flower and the name of the

right fit.

black lab who greets you at the door), highlights the kitchen’s Euro

“Jamie recommended a team of collaborators and he stayed close

flavor. That poppy red (or call it the red of an English phone booth?)

to the process from concept to completion, with creative sugges-

is picked up in colored-metal pendant lights above the counter.

tions and solutions at every stage,” Hazel continues. “We were also

The couple wanted a floor plan that was open but also defined, giving the spaces an intimate feeling. The solution is old-world

still living in Los Angeles, so there was a tremendous amount of trust required since we were absent during construction.”

-style brick arches that separate the kitchen from the living and

Meet Jamie Wilkins and Hazel Brown as they tour you through

dining rooms. A fieldstone fireplace in one corner of the room adds

this unique treat-of-a-home on our Northern Home & Cottage 2020

to (literally and figuratively) the room’s warmth. Everything here

Virtual Tour.

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NHC 8 Trillium Shore.indd 47

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Dining

RESTAURANT GUIDE | LOCAL TABLE | DRINKS

BY ALLISON JARRELL | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

Perfect Pumpkin Dishes

How do you prepare a whole pumpkin prior to cooking?

When preparing a whole pumpkin, be sure to use a very sharp knife and work on a sturdy surface. You will want to slice from the top down and work in sections. Use two hands on the knife if you have to gain leverage; pumpkins can be pretty firm. Be patient and take your time.

What advice would you give someone who is cooking with fresh pumpkin for the first time?

Roasting is your friend. There is nothing better than the smell of a pumpkin roasting in the oven. Be sure to cut the pumpkin in similarly sized chunks. If it is cut evenly, it will cook evenly.

Use your favorite oil to protect the flesh and skin, and season with plenty of salt, pepper and spices.4

1020_TVM_diningdrinks.indd 49

John Richardson, chef and owner of The Bearded Dogg Lounge in Gaylord, finds inspiration each fall in the abundance of fresh pumpkin available in the North, crafting seasonal dishes like roasted pumpkin soup with grilled apple chutney, pumpkin risotto, and bronzed and grilled pumpkin (just to name a few). He shares some tips for cooking with pumpkin at home, as well as his gnocchi recipe, which is sure to be a staple on your seasonal menu.

BEARDEDDOGGLOUNGE.COM

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dining | pumpkin For those new to cooking with pumpkin, what techniques and dishes do you recommend starting out with?

For beginners, pumpkin is best roasted and pureed into a soup or sauce. It is a great way for you to get to know how the squash will react to different cooking techniques.

You can always experiment with different flavorings in small batches until you get your seasoning and consistency just right. Just remember that you can always add more seasoning and liquid, but you can't take it out. Take notes and use measurements, even if a pinch is your measurement.

What is your favorite savory dish to make with pumpkin?

My favorite dish is gnocchi. You can substitute the pumpkin puree for potato and, with very little experimentation, you can dynamically change someone's dumpling experience. Toss the pumpkin gnocchi in a little sage brown butter and freshly grated Parmesan cheese, and enjoy.

Favorite pumpkin dessert?

Pumpkin crème brûlée is particularly good. Just be sure to use a few more egg yolks and some extra sugar in the recipe. Top it with homemade peanut butter whipped cream and you will be in for a treat.

JOHN RICHARDSON’S PUMPKIN GNOCCHI WITH SAGE BROWN BUTTER 1

pound pumpkin puree

1

pound all-purpose flour

2 eggs 1

teaspoon ancho chili powder

1

teaspoon smoked sweet paprika

1

teaspoon nutmeg

Cut your pumpkin into large chunks and coat with salt, pepper and olive oil. Roast the pumpkin pieces on a parchment-lined cookie sheet in a 400-degree oven until soft enough to cut with the side of a spoon (approximately 40 minutes). Once the

50

JOHN RICHARDSON

pumpkin is soft, use a potato masher or ricer and mix until completely smooth. A food processor is also very helpful. Weigh out one pound of your puree and add your seasonings. Place the pumpkin puree in the refrigerator overnight to help it dry out.

On a large work surface, pour the flour into a mound and make a well in the center. Add your eggs in the center and use a fork to beat them slightly. Add your pumpkin puree and mix until it forms a shaggy dough. Work the mixture until it is slightly sticky to the touch. Roll it into a ball, being careful not to overwork the dough. Cover with plastic wrap and let it sit for 30 minutes.

Working with a quarter of the dough at a time, roll the dough into long snakes about half an inch wide. Using the back of a kitchen knife or a bench scraper, cut the dough into pieces about one quarter-inch long and use a bit of flour to keep them from sticking

together. Once you have cut all of your pieces, you can freeze them for later use or cook immediately.

To cook the dumplings, bring a gallon of salted water to a boil and drop your gnocchi in for 3 minutes or until they float. You may also sear the gnocchi in a little oil with some salt and pepper in a non-stick pan over mediumhigh heat. Be sure to transfer the gnocchi to a paper towel before adding the brown butter sage sauce, otherwise they’ll be too greasy.

FOR THE BROWN BUTTER SAUCE Place one quarter-stick of salted butter per 6-8 ounce portion of gnocchi in a saucepan over medium heat with a sprig of sage per portion. Cook slowly until you see the butter turn amber and the sage starts to fry. Toss the hot gnocchi, sage sprigs and brown butter together, removing the sage stems before serving. Finish with freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Enjoy!

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

What tips do you have for freezing and storing pumpkin after it's cooked?

Squash tends to freeze pretty well when made into a sauce or soup. If you freeze it whole, it will become mushy.

I always get excited when I rediscover some frozen pumpkin puree in the cold winter months. It is a great addition to most hearty soups.

MyNorth.com

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restaurant guide | dining

RESTAURANT GUIDE | WATER VIEW BLD | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER BAR | ALCOHOL SERVED $ | ENTRÉES INDER $10 $$ | $10-20 $$$ | ABOVE $20

PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/INDIAN RIVER Dutch Oven Café and Deli French toast and farmers omelet stratas, sandwiches on famous homemade bread. BL •

$ 7611 U.S. 31, ALANSON, 231.548.2231

Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on the Bay Harbor marina. B • $ 4165 MAIN STREET, BAY

HARBOR, 231.439.9989

Original Pancake House Crepes, waffles, pancakes, omelettes, egg specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$ 840 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.2770

NEW The Queens Head Wine pub serving wine, spirits and draft beer along with delectable pub fare. LD • BAR • $ 250 N. HURON ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.445.7101

Vintage Chophouse/ Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$ INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlifedecorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.9471

CROSS VILLAGE/HARBOR SPRINGS/ PELLSTON/PETOSKEY

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR

NEW Provisions Wine Lounge Sommelier-curated wines by

SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and an evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321 Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR • $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY,

231.881.9800

Roast & Toast Hip coffeehouse with daily house-made soups, bread, bakery items and salads. On-site coffee roasting.

A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. BLD • $ 309 E. LAKE

STREET, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767

Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick oven pizzeria. BL • $ 3393 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.1230 Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. LD • BAR • $ 1200 N. U.S. 31, PETOSKEY, 231. 347.9291

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with a big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771 Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with a wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201 Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. D • BAR • $$ 1549 GLENDALE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.2410

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900

Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and handrolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. LD • BAR $-$$$

Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American cuisine with global wine and craft cocktail bar. D • BAR • $$ 129 EAST BAY ST.,

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY,

CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES

04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

231.753.2221

The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes, home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. BL • $ 423 MICHIGAN ST., PETO-

SKEY, 231.347.5583

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients.

Seminole Pub. BLD • BAR • $–$$ 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR

SPRINGS, 231.526.3000

Chandler’s Brick-walled and -floored dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to savor this art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SY-

MONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. LD • $ 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250

Pelican's Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads and homemade desserts. D • BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.412.6032

the glass and bottle, classic cocktails, Michigan craft beer and small plates. LD • BAR • $$ 123 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.2151 Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.0049

Stiggs Brewery Hand-crafted brews, from-scratch food like whitefish cakes, bourbon chicken sandwich, top sirloin wagyu steak. LD • BAR $-$$ 112 S. PARK ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6100 Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cuisine at Shanty Creek Resort with a view of Lake Bellaire. Breakfast, lunch & dinner. The River Bistro—Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, Lunch, (spring-fall) Ivan’s Mountainside Gril—Schuss Village-Pub food. BLD • BAR 1 SHANTY CREEK RD. (M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD • BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contemporary American food with a focus on local ingredients. D • BAR • $$ 213 N BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301

Torch Riviera Pasta, seafood, steaks, ribs, pizza. D • BAR • $$ 12899 CHERRY AVE., RAPID CITY, 231.322.4100

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D

• BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999

CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/ EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH

Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. D L • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE ST.,

CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

The Cantina Tacos and tequila with indoor and outdoor seating. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 VAN PELT PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3612

Charlevoix Pizza Company Scratch-made dough, fresh ingredients, golden crust, prepared daily. Plus, cheesy bread and wings. LD • $-$$ 311 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6300 East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling technique in this specialty food and wine shop. D • $-$$$ 12853 U.S. 31 N., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300

BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/WALLOON Boyne City Taproom Craft beer, wood-fired pizzas, wraps, burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 220 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.459.4487 Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge—Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern— American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 Corner Bistro French-inspired small plates, classic cocktails, wine, beer, Sunday brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 102 N. BRIDGE ST.,

BELLAIRE, 231.350.7344

Friske Orchards Cafe Cheerful roadside restaurant features farm-fresh breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and a bakery. BL • $ 10743 U.S. 31 S., ATWOOD, 231.599.2604 Lake Street Pub American pub with outdoor patio and firepit, BYO mac ‘n’ cheese, cocktails, 26 beers on tap. LD • $

That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Grey Gables Inn Graceful, intimate, Victorian atmosphere across from the harbor. D • BAR • $–$$$ 308 BELVEDERE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.9261

Lake Charlevoix Brewing Co. Craft brewery with good eats—grilled cheese sammies, tacos, quesadillas and beef jerky. LD • BAR • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE PARK DR., CHARLEVOIX,

231.437.3220

Pigs Eatin’ Ribs Real smokehouse with mouthwatering BBQ. Weekend breakfast. BLD • $-$$ 1418 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7447

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E. JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food. LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827

202 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6031

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9/3/20 4:04 PM

dining | restaurant guide Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with a massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel. LD •

BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D • BAR • $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

Torch Lake Cafe Inventive, ultra-fresh cuisine with sharable options like the seafood platter with black garlic butter. Or devour an elevated fried bologna sandwich with pickled green tomato and house Dijon all on your own... BLD • BAR • $-$$$

4990 US31 N, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.599.1111

Villager Pub ’50s atmosphere, whitefish, Mexican, ribs, sandwiches and pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHAR-

LEVOIX, 231.547.6925

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING/MANCELONA Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. LD • $ 147

RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901

Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in a wine bar on the Elk River. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9000

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better. BL • $$ 145 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively zydeco, jazz and blues. LD •

BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530

Siren Hall Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, fresh-off-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 151 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231. 264.6062

Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting. Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3917 SOUTH OLD

27, GAYLORD, 989.732.9288

Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. LD • BAR 227 E MICHIGAN AVE.,

GRAYLING, 989.745.6388

Spike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since 1933. LD • BAR $ 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113 Tap Room 32 Twenty handles of Michigan craft beers and a menu of modern brew-friendly vittles like truffle fries and Korean beef tacos. D • $$ 141 NORTH COURT AVE., GAYLORD,

989.748.8552

The Old Depot 1900s train depot features homestyle burgers, steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. BLD • $$ 10826 M-32 E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115

Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. BLD • BAR • $$-$$$

216 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5524

Treetops Sylvan Resort Hunters Grille, & Sports Bar. Steak, burgers, ribs, pasta, signature pizza, chicken, fish and glutenfree selections. Featuring a selection of 100 Michigan craft beer, wines, fabulous martinis. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ WILKINSON RD., GAYLORD, 800.444.6711

Shirley’s Café An ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. BLD • $ 528 S. WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210

LEELANAU COUNTY 45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and lunch. BL • $-$$ 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza.

Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. BLD • BAR •

$-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

Blu Exquisite regional cuisine from chef Randy Chamberlain in an intimate setting on Sleeping Bear Bay. D • BAR • $$$$ LAKE ST., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.2530

The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927. Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the off-season. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081 Boone Dock’s Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444 Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff. LD •

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA

Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers, hand-cut fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling in the winter. LD • BAR • $ 172

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2784 M-137, INTERLO-

BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688

W BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869

Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches, pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU,

231.256.9912

Fig's Sandwiches, breakfasts, salads homemade with local ingredients. Great selection of vegetarian dishes. BL • $$ 104

INTERLOCHEN/KINGLSEY Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout and so much more. LD BAR • $-$$ 10586 US31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.6401

Dilbert’s Soups, sandwiches, omelets and other home cooking served in a homey atmosphere. BLD • $ 11303 U.S. 31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.3005

CHEN, 231.276.6979

Judson Market and Restaurant Newly re-branded market and restaurant offering house-made and local items. Glutenfree, vegetarian, full bar. BLD • BAR • $$ 211 E. MAIN ST., KINGSLEY,

231.263.8120

W. MAIN ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.7720

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season.

OLD MISSION PENINSULA Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted onsite. LD • BAR • $$ 13512 OLD

LD • BAR • $ 7144 N. M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923

PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MCFARLANE,

Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, locally sourced fare and craft cocktails. D THURSDAY,

MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10844 E REVOLD RD., SUTTONS BAY,

FRIDAY & SATURDAY 5PM–9PM • BAR • $-$$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4222

Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials. LD • BAR • $$ 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.944.1297

231.223.7280

The Homestead Nonna’s Restaurant—Classically inspired, contemporary Italian cuisine. D • BAR $$-$$$ Beppi’s Sports Bar—Hand-tossed pizzas, paninis and salads. D • BAR • $-$$ 1

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY

WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000

Hop Lot Brewing Co. Family-friendly microbrewery with four-season patio and games serving ribs, tacos, wings and a s’more kit to top it all off. LD • BAR • $-$$ 658 S WEST-BAY SHORE

DR., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4445

Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$

11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019 BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE,

231.334.3944

Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace Amical and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch.

LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888

NEW Benedict A family-friendly restaurant offering breakfast and lunch sandwiches, pastries, salads, soups and more. BL • $ 405 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1000

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with fromscratch farmer food. and Michigan-crafted beers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads and tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-$$$

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR •

115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700

$ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. BLD • $

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch, including some gluten free dishes and pastries. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413 N. ST.

129 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. LD • BAR • $

JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

108 S. UNION, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233

North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR • $$

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST.,

420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast—all done well. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6692

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

The Good Bowl Fresh, authentic Vietnamese eatery. Donates $1 for every bowl to the charity of your choice. LD • BAR $-$$

328 E FRONT ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662

The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads. BL • $

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST.,

115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687

The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, breakfast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers share the menu.

$ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437

SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

BLD • $ 110 E. NAGONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. BL • Little G's Fusion Cuisine Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 531 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2713

Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. LD • BAR • $$ 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231.

Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR • $$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE

Wren Contemporary comfort food and a constantly changing menu to feature locally sourced ingredients. D • BAR • $$ 303

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

334.3362

N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.1175

CITY, 933.1100

231.943.2793

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MyNorth.com

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9/3/20 4:04 PM

local table | dining

buttermilk biscuits & pumpkin butter

Cozy up this fall with a plate of warm biscuits.

PHOTO BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

Light and moist, these homemade biscuits get their tang from a healthy shot of buttermilk. They're best served warm with a dab of local honey or spiceinfused pumpkin butter.

•

• •

• •

Preheat oven to 400°F. Mix dry • ingredients in a bowl. Pour into a food processor and add butter in chunks, pulsing until pea-sized crumbles form.

(To mix without food processor, cut in butter with two knives.) Slowly add www.9beanrows.com buttermilk and mix until entire mixture is just blended. Pour dough out onto a BAK E RY & DE L I floured surface and knead about five times. Pat out until about one inch thick.

Using a biscuit cutter or the floured rim of a large drinking glass, cut dough into FAR M STE AD circles. Bake on an ungreased cookie sheet for about 15 minutes, or until puffed and golden. Remove and serve warm with pumpkin butter.

cups unbleached flour

½

teaspoon salt

1

teaspoon baking powder

ž

teaspoon baking soda

1

tablespoon sugar

½

cup unsalted butter, cold

PUMP K IN BUT T E R

ž

cup buttermilk

Combine all ingredients in a heavy 4-quart saucepan. Stirring frequently to avoid burning, bring mixture to a boil over medium heat, then reduce heat and simmer until thick, 15–20 minutes.

(Thickening time will be reduced if using canned pumpkin.) Recipe yields about 2 cups of pumpkin butter; leftovers may be frozen in an airtight container for up to six months.

2 ½ cups cooked pumpkin, pureed (canned or homemade, directions to the right) ž

cup sugar

Âź

cup apple cider

½

teaspoon cinnamon

Âź

teaspoon ground cloves

Âź

teaspoon allspice

Âź

teaspoon nutmeg

Âź

teaspoon ground ginger

Dine-in & Carry-out

Dine-in Carry-out Dine-in & & Carry-out

••

•••

•

•

••

•

••

2

P UM P K I N B U T T E R

Dine-in && Carry-out Dine-in Carry-out

Dine-in & Carry-out

BISC UITS

B I SC U I TS

Dine-in & Carry-ou

&

Carry-out Dine-in & Carry-out

•

Dine-in

•

Dine-in & Carry-out

PREPARATION

INGREDIENTS

FAR M E R S M AR K E T S

Cooked & Pureed Pumpkin: To make your own purÊed pumpkin, wash a mediumsized sugar pumpkin and slice it, removing seeds and pith. Bake at 300°F skin-side up in a roasting pan filled with 1 cup water for 1 hour, or until tender.

Remove, cool, peel and purĂŠe the meat.

Keep Up on Up North!

Subscribe to our e-newsletters: MyNorth.com/Newsletter

Don’t feel like making your own spread? We recommend the pumpkin butter from Traverse Bay Farms—it’s chock-full of fresh pumpkin, sweet brown sugar and fall spices. And if you really feel like indulging, drizzle on some Maple Pumpkin Caramel from American Spoon. It’s reminiscent of pumpkin butter, but with a maple syrup, buttery caramel twist. TRAVERSEBAYFARMS.COM | SPOON.COM

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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9/9/20 10:55 AM

dining | restaurant guide Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST.,

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an alpenhaus-style dining room. LD

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, wellaged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH

Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks. LD

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

231.947.9832

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelets, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. BLD • $ 124 CASS,

231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590

Pangea’s Pizza Pub Craft pies, creative toppings. LD • BAR $-$$ 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800

Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD • $-$$$

237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9645

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7632

Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer.

LD • BAR • $$ 229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh, sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips Ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700 Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (including European Trappist ales) with your burger and lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128 S.

231.534.8888

• BAR • $$ 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991 Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted wood-fired flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. LD • BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now at a new location. BAR • $ 225 E. 16 ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1239

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST Rough-hewn eatery affords a great Apache Trout Grill bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. LD • BAR • $$

13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • $$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960

Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., ST. 30, TRAVERSE

• BAR • $ 1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575

Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club–style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. LD • BAR • $$ 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5332

Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting. LD • BAR • $ 523 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399 Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1100 28TH ST., MANISTEE,

231.723.8000

The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. D • $-$$ 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843

Dinghy’s Local favorite for 25 years with house-smoked meats including famous ribs, half-pound burger, Big BLT, award-winning Friday fish fry. LD • BAR • $$ 415 MAIN ST.,

CITY, 231.252.4648

FRANKFORT, 231.352.4702

The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and wood-fired pizzas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients. LD• BAR

UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4807

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$ 717

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRA-

The Silver Swan Ethnic fare and killer desserts. LD • $ 13692

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. LD • BAR

Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. BLD • $ 1333 YELLOW DR.,

VERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

• $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Sugar 2 Salt Traverse City's hot brunch spot serves up what is in season. B • $-$$ 1371 GRAY DR., SUITE 300, TRAVERSE CITY,

231.409.8382

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500 The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203

VERSE CITY, 231.421.1165

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST Don’s Drive In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. LD • $ 2030 U.S. 31 N.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.1860

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends.

D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000

Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-can-eat cod. BLD • $ 1103 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

Reflect Bistro and Lounge at Cambria Suites Hotel Breakfast, dinner and Happy Hour 4-7 p.m. daily. BD • BAR • $-$$$

255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000

Smoke and Porter Public House An American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT,

231.352.4114

Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn. BLD

TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453

• $-$$$ 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY,

L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $-$$ 325 MAIN STREET, FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. LD • BAR $-$$ 515

231.929.8989

West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922

FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9136

North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the drawbridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with meats smoked daily and excellent craft beers on tap. LD • BAR $-$$ 86 WASHINGTON ST, MANISTEE, 231.299.1020

231.929.090

Thirsty Fish Sports Grille Family-friendly sports bar with seafood, burgers, steaks, pasta and a 600-gallon fish tank.

Live music on the patio. LD • BAR • $-$$ 221 E. STATE ST., TRA-

• $-$$ 318 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4121

BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/THOMPSONVILLE Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Wood-paneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites. BLD • BAR • $-$$ M-115, THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000

Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken, pizza, soups, salads. LD • BAR • $ 14848 THOMPSON AVE., THOMPSONVILLE, 231.378.2554

Lucky Dog Bar and Grille Burgers, smoked wings, brats, sandwiches, craft beer, cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S. BENZIE

BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499

Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere.

Steaks, Italian, Mexican. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 10921 MAIN ST., HONOR,

Rock's Landing Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with ethnic influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. D • BAR $$ 1157 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST.,

FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Tavo and Tarrah Hernandez turned their food truck into a restaurant dream-come-true with ultra-fresh tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas. LD • BAR

• $-$$ 344 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4441

Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib pasta , whitefish, craft beer, regional wines. LD • BAR

• $-$$ 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751

T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for panini, mex and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. LD • BAR • $ 99 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174

231.227.1200

The Roadhouse Fresh Mex with a cool cantina atmosphere.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US 31), BENZONIA, 231.882.9631

Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers sandwiches. BLD • $-$$

245 S BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250

CADILLAC Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. BL • $ 304 N. MITCHELL,

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS! Go to MyNorth.com/Restaurants

CADILLAC, 231.775.5461

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MyNorth.com

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9/3/20 4:06 PM

candy | drinks

C A N DY C O C K TA I L S Snag a few goodies from your kids’ trick-or-treat bags for these wickedly delicious drinks.

BY CARLY SIMPSON | PHOTOS BY ALLISON JARRELL

Northern Latitudes Distillery in Lake Leelanau is known for its creative cocktail recipes—owners Mark and Mandy Moseler and their team have developed hundreds, many of which they share online at northernlatitudesdistillery.com/recipes. The local distillery is celebrating its eighth anniversary this year, having opened its doors on October 4, 2012. We’ll raise a candy-coated glass to that!

Mounds Cocktail INGREDIENTS 2 ounces Northern Latitudes’ Mackinac Island Fudge Chocolate Liqueur 2

ounces piña colada mix

Chocolate syrup for rimming

Shredded coconut for rimming

METHOD Rim a martini glass with chocolate syrup and shredded coconut. Swirl some extra syrup in a design inside the glass. Shake Mackinac Island Fudge Chocolate Liqueur and piña colada mix on ice. Add one ice cube to the bottom of a glass and pour in shaken ingredients. Garnish side of glass with a Mounds candy and sprinkle extra coconut on top.

Reese’s Cocktail INGREDIENTS 1 ½ ounces Reese’s infused vodka

(directions below) 1 ½ ounces milk

ABIGAIL KOPROWICZ, BAR MANAGER, NORTHERN LATITUDES DISTILLERY

1

ounce Northern Latitudes’ Mackinac Island Fudge Chocolate Liqueur

Chocolate syrup

Crushed Reese's candies for rimming

Reese’s peanut butter cup sliced for garnish

METHOD Fill a cocktail shaker with ice, then add infused vodka, milk and chocolate liqueur.

Shake until chilled. Rim a martini glass with syrup and crushed candy. Drizzle syrup inside the glass in a pattern. Pour mixture in prepared glass and garnish with Reese’s cup sliced for rim. *To make infused vodka, fill a mason jar with 1 cup Northern Latitudes’ Ice Dunes Vodka and ½ cup Reese’s pieces candy.

Cover with tight-fitting lid and shake.

Refrigerate overnight, then strain.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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9/3/20 4:07 PM

love of the land

Protecting Michigan’s Natural Resources A ballot initiative aims to increase funding for park improvements.

BY ALLISON JARRELL | PHOTO BY LITTLE TRAVERSE CONSERVANCY

RESORT TOWNSHIP EAST PARK

This November, Michigan residents will have the chance to further the protection and preservation of the state’s parks and natural lands, and a coalition of environmental advocates, hunters, fishers and business leaders are hoping they’ll take advantage of it.

For more than 40 years, the Michigan Natural Resources Trust Fund has served as a key funding source for Michigan’s parks, allocating more than $1 billion to protect the state’s natural resources. This includes more than $7.1 million across 10 grants to Emmet County alone, which has funded the acquisition of land and created public parks such as Headlands International Dark Sky Park, Little Traverse Bay View Park, Resort Bluffs and Pet-O-Se-Ga campground. The trust fund also contributed to portions of the Little Traverse Wheelway, which is utilized by more than 10,000 people daily in the summer months.

If approved by voters on November 3, the Michigan Use of State and Local Park Funds Amendment will change how revenue in the state’s park-related funds can be spent, including removing the cap on the size of the Michigan Natural Resources Trust Fund (it reached its $500 million cap in 2011). The amendment would also make projects to renovate recreational facilities eligible for grants and allow the parks endowment fund to be spent on park operations and maintenance.

56

“Though people often don’t realize it, the Michigan Natural Resources Trust Fund has provided Michigan’s citizens and visitors with some of the most popular natural areas throughout our state,” says Kieran Fleming, executive director of Little Traverse Conservancy. “Many Lake Michigan access points in the northwest part of the state were made possible through this fund. And several of the large projects that Michigan’s land trusts have completed cooperatively with the Department of Natural Resources have received trust fund grants, protecting literally thousands and thousands of acres along some of our most treasured natural features.”

In an effort to educate voters on the upcoming ballot measure, Heart of the Lakes, a statewide land conservation organization, coordinated an educational campaign and website (protectmi.org) to help the public understand how their favorite parks are largely funded with money from the trust fund.

“We are so fortunate to have this pool of money in Michigan and, if the ballot passes this fall, more support for basic infrastructure at these protected lands will be greatly appreciated by all who visit them,” Fleming says.

For a detailed breakdown of the ballot measure and how it would increase funding for parks, visit ballotpedia.org and search for Michigan Use of State and Local Park Funds Amendment.

MyNorth.com

1020_TVM_love of the land.indd 56

9/4/20 11:27 AM

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