Traverse, Northern Michigan's Magazine November 2018

MYNORTH HOLIDAYS INSIDE!

shop local!

thankful for

CHEESY POTATOES THE ULTIMATE UP NORTH HOLIDAY RECIPE

CRAFT WHISKEY Local Spirits for the Season

SNOW SPORT REPORT!

The Buzz from the Slopes

WINTER FISHING Steelhead on the Boardman PRIME RIB PRIMER From Maxbauer's Butchers

WILDLIFE 911 On Patrol with Conservation Officer Borkovich GREAT LAKE GETAWAYS Big Waves + Cozy Rooms FRIENDSGIVING FEAST (With The Fresh Exchange + Friends) SEPTEMBER 2018 NOVEMBER 2017

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Contents

Discover more about Up North, people, places, food and events.

november | features

22 | A NORTHERN FRIENDSGIVING Megan and Mike Gilger of The Fresh Exchange lifestyle blog offer up tips, recipes (with scrumptious photos) for a cozy Up North November feast with friends.

26 | WILDLIFE 911 After years guarding our forests, veteran Michigan conservation officer John Borkovich writes a book. Here’s one harrowing tale.

28 | SNOW SPORT REPORT The buzz on perfect powder, new gear, cozy fireside getaways and Crystal Mountain’s new amabassador with the golden locks.

30 | PLEASE PASS THE CHEESY POTATOES We give our unofficial state dish a local foods makeover. Stretchy pants required.

PLUS | MYNORTH HOLIDAYS SHOP LOCAL 100+ GIFTS FROM OUR NORTHERN MICHIGAN SMALL TOWNS, HANDPICKED FOR YOU.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

NOV ’18

3

contents | departments

39 Mark Rosenbaum

128 River Street, Elk Rapids, MI 49629 - 231 264 6660 www.mullalys128.com hello ifnore is for FIND US ONthis FACEBOOK

Get a taste of Michigan this fall — take a bite of a Michigan Apple! Taste the tradition and find out why Michigan is the place where apples love to grow.

9 | EDITOR’S NOTE

37 | LOCAL TABLE

11 | UP NORTH

Smoked butter elevates just about everything.

Three tributes to Leelanau wine pioneer Bernie Rink— bottled. Marquette gets its own (Joe Pera-style) comedy show.

This man made a 30-foot Mackinaw boat in his driveway.

39 | DRINKS Toast the season with local whiskey.

40 | OUTDOORS Catch yourself a steelhead.

15 | NOVEMBER EVENTS

ON THE COVER

So much to do up here!

Hibernating prohibited.

It’s cheesy potato season.

PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

19 | TRAVEL Curl up with a Great Lake out your window.

20 | UP IN MICHIGAN Reminiscences of Native American icon Dan Pine.

FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

33 | DINING

MichiganApples.com 4

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Primo butcher shops and fool-proof prime rib.

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Welcome Home to Chelsea Park II A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/ EDITOR IN CHIEF EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR WEB EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Deborah Wyatt Fellows Emily Tyra Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Elizabeth Aseritis, Caroline Dahlquist Lou Blouin, Kim Schneider, Tim Tebeau, Andrew VanDrie Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Rachel Watson

JUNIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Breanne Kerner

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Julie Parker

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Jim Driver Ann Gatrell Jill Hayes Meg Lau Chris Hunt Cyndi Ludka Drew Warner

MARKETING DIRECTOR

Rachel North

DIRECTOR OF AUDIENCE ENGAGEMENT AND BRAND STRATEGY MYNORTH TICKETS MANAGER OFFICE MANAGER CONTROLLER

Only 3 units left!

Joe Beyer

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Discover This Hidden Treasure Privacy and location are key when it comes to the tranquil setting of Chelsea Park II. Adjacent to Miller Creek Nature Reserve and only minutes from Downtown Traverse City and Munson Hospital. These 2BR/2BA condominiums offer main floor living with a full basement (plumbed for 3rd bath and egress windows for two additional bedrooms), natural gas fireplace, and oversized two-car garage.

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Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 Subscriber Services Visit MyNorth.com/sub to change your address or to review your account.

Please e-mail other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800.785.8632 between 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. EST. Reprints Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly

by Prism Publications Inc., 125 Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684.

Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $27.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2018, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

CHELSEA PARK II TRAVERSE CITY

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NOV ’18

7

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MyNorth.com

editor’s note

RURAL ROUTE TEXT BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS | PHOTO BY ANGELA BROWN

O

ur mailbox is at the end of our dirt road, a half-mile from our house. We gave this nary a thought on that sleety November day when we moved our family—two-and-a-half-year-old Ben, one-week-old Peter and our aging dog, Sara—into our little spot on the lake. But we’d never lived with a mailbox farther away than the end of our drive and we quickly found the distance disconcerting. We added coordinating who would get the mail to our hectic daily schedule, lest it be discovered we’d forgotten it just as we’d settled in for a winter evening.

On occasion we’d forget. Sometimes we’d leave it, but that was surprisingly hard to do.

As we got settled and Peter grew heartier, I began bundling the boys onto the sled for a trip up the plowed road to get the mail. It’s a beautiful walk. A handful of houses are tucked behind curtains of cedar and poplar. Three streams flow under the road at different points and animal tracks abound.

We’d usually set off on our outing in high spirits, Ben marching along in his tri-colored snow boots, Sara making half-hearted attempts to follow a rabbit scent. If we were lucky, Peter would actually doze.

But a mile-round-trip was about a half-mile too long, especially at a snow-suited toddler’s pace. Shortly after starting the return leg, the baby would no longer be dozing or cooing or even whimpering. He’d be screaming. Opting for speed, I’d load Ben back into the sled against his will. To keep him from crying, I’d give him the mail to carry. And then Sara would turn her wise, tired eyes at me, sit down and not move. “Just let me catch my breath a minute,” she would have said if she could. The baby crying, my poor old dog resting and Ben “reading” and then dispensing Newsweek, L.L. Bean catalogs and utility bills into the slush and snow.

It was never quite the walk down the lane I’d pictured.

The box still stands as a sentry marking the end of what our four kids call our “bumpy” road and the beginning of the paved, county road. Through sun, rain, sleet and snow we’ve made our way to the mail on foot, skis, snowshoes, bikes and wagons. A favorite stop: the abandoned pontoon boat the boys named “Our friend the old boat.” Such adventures we’ve had upon that boat, mostly visiting grandmas and grandpas.

Sometimes our walks would be raucous fun, with the trip going by in a wink. Sometimes it took forever, when they’d fight over who carried the mail or whine that they simply couldn’t make it back without food or water. And sometimes, in the evening light or the heat of the day, they’d

be quiet, reflective, content to hang close and share a story or a secret or maybe just the sound of the wind in the trees.

The trip to the box continued to be a family affair—until the summer when, for the first time, the kids started going on their own. A few times a week, a rag-tag group of siblings and friends set off to get the mail, walking our much-loved dog, Foxy. I was hesitant the first time I let them head off, reviewing carefully the procedure for crossing the “busy” road to the mailbox. Assuring me that they understood the protocol completely, off they went.

As they ran up the drive, I could still see them as toddlers bustling up the hill in front of me, giggling as I pretended I couldn’t keep up. And I could still feel Sara, now gone, bumping up against my leg every now and then so I’d stop walking and crouch down for a rest and a chance to scratch between her ears. I turned back toward the house reminding myself that this is a country version of a rite-of-passage—full of memories, full of promise.

And then, in relatively short order, back they came—running down the driveway at full speeds, faces hot and flushed.

Foxy, a herder who likes nothing better than to run, was in the thick of it, eyes dancing, tongue wagging. Stories were told to me hurriedly through smiles, as pieces of mail were thrust in my direction out of sweaty hands that were still so small. And then, just as suddenly, they were off to the lake.

I recall clearly the first time they actually convinced me to let them take their then-21-month-old sister Olivia along—only as far as the last bend in the road so she wouldn’t be near the traffic. She was beside herself with joy and sat perched in her stroller, ready for anything. Of course, she refused to stay in her stroller, wanted to swim in the streams along the way and generally gave them all a run for their money.

Needless to say, her trips to the mailbox were with me along for a while longer. So were lots of theirs.

And that suited me just fine.

A version of this essay originally appeared in Reflections of a Life Up North , available at MyNorth.com/Reflections. =

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth. debwf@traversemagazine.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

NOV ’18

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Combining ournavigating team of specialists ur devotion is to our clients,Our and we treat them over if they were aago, part and of our own family. the coast of aging well. It is about collaborating a team of professional advisors tofor become educated andclients. anticipate unites the disciplined perspectives and fiwith nancial expertise of two generations the benefi t of our Our clients believe that Planning and Investment Management is about solving for quality of life and navigating what’s to come next in Financial life. the coast of aging well. It is about collaborating with a team of professional advisors to become educated and anticipate Out story began overin40 years ago, and like/our client’s lives, /has transitioned and evolved over time. Combining our team what’s to come next life.

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Up North

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

BERNIE RINK

TRIBUTES

A Toast to Bernie Rink The closing of Boskydel Vineyard last December left the Leelanau Wine Trail void of one of its most colorful characters: Bernie Rink. Rink, 91, retired after operating Boskydel for more than four decades. The homespun tasting room won legions of fans over the years but puzzled newcomers, often taken aback by the owner’s sometimes curmudgeonly ways. Rink is credited with launching the peninsula’s flourishing commercial wine industry, now home to more than two dozen wineries.

Created from French-American hybrids, his wines were approachable and affordable.

Boskydel wines may be no more, but, fittingly, three Leelanau Peninsula vintners have released tribute wines to Rink. “What a pioneer he was and what an impact he had on all of us,” says Taylor Simpson, co-owner of Good Harbor Vineyards, one of the three.

“There never will be another Boskydel in this day and age. The industry has changed so much and taken on a whole new life. But it’s nice to have memories of Boskydel and to share them.”

TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

Turn the page for more on the three tribute wines. Each displays a caricature of Bernie behind the bar in his tasting room, designed by son, Jim Rink, and would be wonderful to toast with at your Thanksgiving table.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

NOV ’18

11

upnorth | what's up

Continued from page 11.

2017 Medium Sweet Vignoles, Good Harbor Vineyards.

Aromatic, flush with big peach flavor, with a clean finish. Although vignoles, an American hybrid, are high in acidity, this vintage is incredibly balanced, with about 4.5 percent residual sugar. “This was one of my favorite wines that Bernie produced,” says Sam Simpson, co-owner of Good Harbor Vineyards. “Every year he came out with a really nice vignoles. His was more dry in style; ours is more approachable to the public as a medium sweet wine.” GOODHARBOR.COM

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2017 Soleil Blanc, Bel Lago Vineyards & Winery.

Bel Lago owner and vintner Charlie Edson harvested several Boskydel varieties for his tribute wine, including Vignoles, Traminette and Seyval Blanc. His goal was to approximate one of his favorite Boskydel blends. His 2017 Soleil Blanc boasts tropical fruit notes, guava and citrus, with baked pear and hints of spice and crushed flowers.

“I just always liked the flavor profile of the Boskydel version of this wine,” Edson says. “Elegant, subtle, unique, always nice fruit—a great food wine.”

BELLAGO.COM —Greg Tasker

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MyNorth.com

GREG TASKER

BUILD BEAUTIFUL

2017 Sparkling deCHAUNAC Rosé, Mawby.

An off-dry rosé made from 100 percent de chaunac red wine grapes, a French-American hybrid, hand-picked from Rink’s 64-acre farm near South Lake Leelanau. This rosé boasts a tremendously vibrant color (darker than traditional rosés) and fresh light berry flavors.

Mawby produced just 200 cases, released in April. The tribute wine has sold out in Mawby’s tasting room but you might snag one at local wine retailers. LMAWBY.COM

what's up | upnorth

JOE PERA

WHAT TO WATCH

LEF T: COURTESY JOE PER A // RIGHT: GREGORY CUTSHAW

JOE PERA TALKS WITH YOU Not only has New York comedian Joe Pera’s Adult Swim program garnered respectable ratings and oodles of critical acclaim in its first season, it’s also given viewers a look at life in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.

It’s one of the year’s most refreshing new comedies, and it’s perfect for parents and kids home from college to watch together after, say, a big turkey dinner.

The soft-spoken and endearingly unconventional lead plays a middle school choir teacher, who was born and raised in Marquette and, to quote the character, is “just in awe of Michigan’s geological splendor.”

Though filming was split between Marquette and Milwaukee, Wisconsin, last year, the U.P. is a clear focal point of Talks With You. Upper Michigan’s largest city is used to familiarize viewers with the kindly, old fashioned protagonist and self-proclaimed “rock hound.” Over the course of nine heartwarming and side-splitting episodes, Pera takes a fall drive and visits one of the peninsula’s estimated 300 waterfalls to restore his soul.

He dresses as Marquette County prosecutor and Anatomy Of A Murder author John D. Voelker on Halloween, shops at Econofoods, enjoys whitefish at Thill’s Fish House, and doles out facts about Superior Dome (“the largest wooden dome in North America”) and the important role Northern Michigan iron played in the nation’s development.

Fittingly, this unexpected breakout comedy relies on a largely overlooked—or downright unknown—region to introduce an audience to the odd, upbeat, and undeniably likable character who’s proud to call Marquette home. —Tyler Maas

NORTHERN NEIGHBOR

The Pride of Ponshewaing

BOB SCHAFER

What’s the first thing you would do if you built a 30-foot sailboat in your driveway?

Make sure it floats?

Okay. What’s the second thing you would do?

Take friends and neighbors for a sail?

Exactly. And, that’s exactly what Ponshewaing resident Bob Schafer did. After making sure his hand-hewn boat floated and he had the right amount of rocks on board for ballast, he invited his family, friends and neighbors earlier this year to go sailing on Crooked Lake in his yet to be officially named Mackinaw Boat, which is currently simply referred to as “Bob’s Boat.”

Bob began building his own boats back when he and his family lived in St. Ignace, between roofing and carpentry jobs. As his skills grew, so did his interest in boats designed specifically for the region, in particular open workboats with sails generally called Mackinaw Boats. Boats built with readily available resources and simple carpentry tools. The original Mackinaw Boats were built in the Mackinac Straits area, hence the name, and roughly based on the flat bottom, double-ended design of Native American canoes whose technology was well known in the area by both the Voyageurs and the native North Americans they were in partnership with in the area. Bob’s first Mackinaw Boat, a 16’ single-mast, gaff-rigged skiff built from the same basic scaled-down drawings of his latest boat, sits sadly out of the water, but proudly in front of Darrow’s Family Restaurant in, appropriately enough, Mackinaw City. Even out of the water, this little boat is an attention getter.

After their children had grown and left home, Bob and his wife Debbie landed in Ponshewaing. That is where, a few winters ago, Bob and his grandson, Jack, went off into the woods and waded through two feet of snow with an axe to chop down a carefully selected Douglas fir tree. The tree that would be shaped and eventually laid down on the snow in the driveway to become the keel of the boat.

Bob is getting to know his newest and mightiest Mackinaw vessel and, over this winter, he is hoping to find a homeport for it. In the meantime, he’s eying the right tree to become the keel of his next one. —Gregory Cutshaw

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

NOV ’18

13

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Find Your Cottage or Hotel Up North mynorth.com/vacation

14

MyNorth.com

calendar | events

TIX Look for this symbol in our Events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

November EDITED BY LIBBY STALLMAN

SAT

3

SUN

4

Sports | Bell’s annual Iceman Cometh is a challenging 30-mile mountain bike race from Kalkaska to Traverse City. iceman.com Music | Anda Union brings a wide range of musical instruments and vocal styles together in a fusion that would make Genghis Khan himself proud.

Milliken Auditorium, Traverse City. MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

10

Festivals | Flapjack & Flannel Festival: 10+ Breweries. 30+ Brews. Pancake pairings, live music, heated tents and good times! The Little Fleet, Traverse City. MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

And More | Toast the Season

10

SUN

4

DAYLIGHT SAVINGS ENDS

TUE

6

THU

8

SUN

11

ELECTION DAY

Theater | Join the

Young Company under the sea! Old Town Playhouse presents Disney’s The Little Mermaid, Jr. Traverse City.

MyNorthTickets.com

TUE

13

WED

21

along the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail with wine and food pairings, recipes and holiday shopping. Two weekends: Nov. 3 & 4 or Nov. 10 & 11. lpwines.com And More

Nature | In honor of

Veterans Day, park entrance fees are waived today at Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore! Take a hike, bring a picnic and enjoy the fast-fleeing days of autumn in this beautiful setting. nps.gov/slbe

Art | Visit the Dennos Museum and explore Homage, a collection of 40-framed neck-pieces created as a celebration and tribute to Canadian women, past and present. dennosmuseum.org

FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS

Music | (21) Billy String’s new album, Turmoil & Tinfoil, taps into psychedelia in Americana, referencing everything from the Grateful Dead to Sturgill Simpson.

Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts, Manistee.

MyNorthTickets.com

THU

22

THANKSGIVING DAY

FRI

Holiday | HollyPOP! is a two-day market showcasing original art, quality crafts, holiday decorations, food favorites and gift items galore. Old Art Building, Leland. oldartbuilding.com

SAT

And More | Area restaurants partner with the Wineries of Old Mission to create a perfect mac & cheese and wine pairing for the annual Great Mac & Cheese Bake Off. MyNorthTickets.com

WED

Literary | Teens wanted at the Traverse City Main Library to assist in planning future events, socialize and have fun! Every Wed. at 5:30pm. tadl.org

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

NOV ’18

15

Art

Kids

Live Art for TART: 3

Traverse City Children’s Book Festival: 10

Please find more Art at MyNorth.com

Watch artists bring art to life in real-time, bid on your favorites in silent auction. Live music from Andrew Brown Jazz Manouche Trio. $5 suggested donation. $1 per vote to choose a crowd favorite. 5-9pm. Percentage of evening will benefit TART Trails. Right Brain Brewery, Traverse City. traversetrails.org

Please find more Kids at MyNorth.com.

TCCBF is a celebration of children, families, community and literacy. The festival offers a sampling of books for the entire family from a variety of Michigan and national publishers. Local nonprofits are on hand with fun, kidfriendly activities and crafts. General attendance is free; no tickets required. Proceeds from the Traverse City Children's Book Festival benefit Born to Read. 10am-2pm, City Opera House. 231.933.0448, tcchildrensbookfestival.com

Fairs, Festivals & Holidays

Please find more Fairs, Festivals & Holidays at MyNorth.com.

Holiday Open House in Suttons Bay: 17

Support your local businesses AND local schools at the same time by shopping local during the Holiday Open House. 231.271.5077, suttonsbayarea.com Christmas in Onekama: 17-18

FEATURED EVENTS Look for this symbol in our Events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

TIX

Arts and crafts show, chili cook-off and more, Sat. 10am4pm. Celebration of Lights in the Farr Center, Sun. 6-8pm. onekama.info Boyne City Holiday Open House & Santa Parade: 23

Boyne City, 5-9pm. boynechamber.com Leland Pajama Party Shopping Event: 23

Kick off the busiest holiday shopping weekend on Friday morning with the annual PJ Party. Special Early Bird discounts, fantastic sales all day, food pantry kick-off, fill out your Holiday Wish List at Leland shops. 231.866.1133, lelandmi.com Glen Arbor Bed Parade, Tree Lighting & Holiday Market Preview Party: 23, 24

Friday, 9–9:30 a.m., Bed Parade. Saturday, Tree Lighting, caroling (6:45 p.m.) followed by Holiday Market preview in the townhall, 7-8pm. Free and open to the public. Glen Arbor. visitglenarbor.com

11/3 MITCH ALBOM

Milliken Auditorium, Traverse City

11/10 FLAPJACK & FLANNEL The Little Fleet, Traverse City

11/23 - 12/8 A CHRISTMAS CAROL Old Town Playhouse, Traverse City

11/29 JAZZ REACH PRESENTS METTA QUINTE Milliken Auditorium, Traverse City

11/30 - 12/9 THE NUTCRACKER BALLET

Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts, Manistee

For more information visit MyNorthTickets.com.

16

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Music

Please find more Music at MyNorth.com.

Bob Milne: 9

Bob Milne is considered to be the best ragtime/boogiewoogie pianist in the world, and his natural ability to hear and play music goes back to his early childhood. He continues to play 250 performances each year. Crooked Tree Arts Center, Petoskey. 231.347.3209, MyNorthTickets.com Simon Shaheen: 9

Shaheen dazzles his listeners as he deftly leaps from traditional Arabic sounds to jazz and Western classical styles.

West Shore Community College, Scottville. 231.843.5507, MyNorthTickets.com

Nature

Please find Nature at MyNorth.com.

Owls and Owl Pellets: 10

Learn the science of owls and owl pellets. Dissect your own pellet to see what these owls were hunting for!

1-2:30pm, Grass River Natural Area, Bellaire. 231.533.8576, grassriver.org

Charlevoix Parade & Tree Lighting: 23

East Park, 5:30pm. charlevoix.org

Tree Lighting in Cross Village: 23 Music, food, and festivities at Three Pines Studio, 5:30pm. threepinesstudio.com Walloon Lake: 23

Watch the tree lighting and enjoy hot chocolate in the Christmas Village. 6pm, visitpetoskeymichigan.com Frankfort Elberta Events: 24

22nd Annual Holly Berry Arts & Crafts Fair is an indoor Holiday Art Fair with over 100 artists. Enjoy Santa and Mrs. Claus’ arrival at Hotel Frankfort with complimentary candy canes and horse-drawn carriage rides. Festival of Trees at the Benzie Historical Society. Frankfort Community Tree Lighting, Rotary Park. 231.352.7251, frankfort-elberta.com Harbor Springs Tree Lighting: 24

A special tradition and an unforgettable way to kick off the holiday season! 6:30pm. harborspringschamber.com Indian River's Holiday Open House: 24

6-9pm, visitpetoskeymichigan.com

Film

Theater

Please find Theater at MyNorth.com.

Traverse City Central High School presents Newsies: 8

Based on the real-life Newsboy Strike of 1899, this new Disney musical tells the story of Jack Kelly, a rebellious newsboy who dreams of a life as an artist away from the big city. Performances during the second and third weekends in November. TC West’s production of Newsies is planned for the first two weekends in March, 2019.

231.933.3573, MyNorthTickets.com

And More

Please find And More at MyNorth.com.

Comedy Night in Omena: 8

Appetizer buffet and a comedy show at the Omena Knot Just a Bar. Cash bar. 231.386.7393. MyNorthTickets.com Shop Your Community Day: 10

Downtown Traverse City salutes the community and shares a portion of proceeds towards the community’s favorite charities. Do your holiday shopping in advance and 15% of your purchase amount will be donated to the charity of your choice. 231.922.2050, downtowntc.com

Please find more Film at MyNorth.com.

25¢ Matinees at the State Theater: 7-28

Classic Matinees every Wednesday at 10:30am; Kids Matinees every Saturday at 10am, Traverse City. Check the website for the full lineup. stateandbijou.org

Libby Stallman is calendar editor of Traverse. Enter your event information at MyNorth.com/events two to three months prior to event date. Questions or more information email Libby@mynorth.com.

Taste What’s

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Holiday 2018

Come visit our extensive tasting room Fresh extra-virgin olive oils Aged balsamic vinegars Gourmet items for the pantry Cooking classes that inspire

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what to do | travel

BIG LAKE DRAMA Time spent near water has a long list of benefits, among them the preholiday boost of lowering stress and anxiety, along with a general sense of wellbeing and happiness. We can only surmise that a November squall simply multiplies that—especially when you’re watching the wave show from the cozy perch of a beachfront inn, by a roaring fire.

TEXT BY KIM SCHNEIDER | PHOTO BY ANGELA BROWN

INN AT BAY HARBOR, LAKE MICHIGAN

LAKE MICHIGAN

LAKE HURON

LAKE SUPERIOR

Let Lake Michigan’s power play out from your elegant Grand Suite at the Inn on Bay Harbor, especially perfect for the way you can gaze at the fireplace and big lake at the same time. Plus, whether the day brings rain or snow, your whole vacation is under one trademark red roof. You’re just an elevator ride from your cocooning lavender body wrap and Petoskey stone massage that comes with the signature Northern Luxury Body Treatment at the on-site spa. Then enjoy the dinner classic of Great Lakes walleye by the massive dining room windows. INNATBAYHARBOR.COM

Settle into the hot tub on the private deck jutting over the beach to savor the Lake Huron spray without even getting a chill. Rooms at Huron House Bed and Breakfast in Oscoda come with gas fireplaces, flat screen TVs and Netflix for those who want to hunker in and binge. Breakfast specialties like housebaked croissants covered in caramel sauce and crushed walnuts are delivered to your door. If you do leave the room, be sure it’s to meander to the outdoor fire pit where the crackling of the fire can mingle with your trip’s soundtrack of pounding waves. HURONHOUSE.COM

The gales of November are especially poignant when you’re gazing upon Lake Superior from the cliff-top rooms where keepers once kept watch for shipwreck survivors during late fall storms. Rooms at The Inn at Big Bay Point Lighthouse are outfitted with gas fireplaces and windows, great for storm-watching amid the extra drama of the rotating light. The coffee pot is always on, so wander the shoreline and 47 acres of woods and meadow, then warm up afterward; there’s an evening cookie snack. For fun, borrow the on-site lighthouse books or the copy of Anatomy of a Murder, filmed nearby.

BIGBAYLIGHTHOUSE.COM

Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she's the author of the recently-published book, 100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die. kimschneider.net

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

NOV ’18

19

up in michigan | essay PINE FAMILY ANCESTORS

Lesson from DAN PINE I was awed by my own success: me—half WASP, half Russian Jew— interviewing Dan Pine. This was the Dr. Dan Pine, healer and teacher and hereditary chief descended from the great Chief Shingwaukonsee who had, with other Ojibway chiefs, negotiated the fate of all the lands north of Lakes Superior and Huron with the Englishman, William Robinson.

My blood was more that of Robinson than Shingwaukonsee. My English ancestors came over in the 1600s and moved onto Indian lands in the northeastern U.S. One of them got killed during King Philip’s War while roofing his new house built too close to a Wampanoag village.

Regardless of my lack of Native blood, Win Awenen Nisitotung, the newspaper of the Sault Ste. Marie Tribe of Chippewa Indians hired me as a writer. It was a wonderful job. I had a reason to do research and ask any questions I had about Native culture.

All my life I’d admired what I thought of as the Native American way of life.

In my 20s I moved to the Upper Peninsula, to live in the forest, off the grid: to reduce life to the basics, eliminate the distractions of modern amenities like electricity, running water and telephone.

It sounded simple and idyllic in the pages of Mother Earth News. The reality was far different. I was always dirty and the half of me facing away from the fire in the wood-burning stove, cold.

Wild foods described by Euell Gibbons in Stalking the Wild Asparagus were bitter and unpalatable. Bradford Angier’s advice to use the underground stems of goldthread for some kind of ailment— I can’t remember what—resulted in a mouth full of tangled wire. Native people, with centuries of experience living this way, would certainly do better than we back-to-nature newcomers.

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DAN PINE

In 1980 I began working for the Sault Tribe newspaper. Most of the employees were Native American. Most didn’t seem to care that I wasn’t. People were nice enough, as at any job. We talked about everyday things … kids, weekend plans, the weather … more than Native American rights.

Still, those rights were very much in the news. We’d moved to the Sault because those rights had been challenged. My husband had been hired as the fisheries biologist for the three northern Michigan fishing tribes who were engaged in battle for commercial fishing rights promised in treaties.

Even with all my remorse over my

DAN PINE WAS A SMALL MAN. HE GREETED ME KINDLY. HIS EYES WERE DARK AND SOMBER AND PEERED UP FROM BENEATH HEAVY EYELIDS. people’s history, a deep appreciation of Native culture and friends within the Tribe, and even though the general label, “Indian,” encompassed a large amorphous group of people of all colors, shapes and political leanings, I still felt like an interloper. There was no denying my membership in the large group called “whites.” It hurt to be in the category of oppressor.

When Dan Pine agreed to see me, I went bolstered by my role as a writer for the tribal newspaper.

His house looked like the other plain houses among the pine trees along the road through Garden River reserve in Ontario—nothing that hinted at the stature I’d assigned him. Probably there was

a dim entry-way for boots and jackets.

I don’t remember. He almost certainly accepted my offering of tobacco, a symbol of his agreement to speak honestly with me.

Dan Pine was a small man. He greeted me kindly. His eyes were dark and somber and peered up from beneath heavy eyelids. This man had insights into the wisdom of the natural world—centuries of knowledge passed down through the generations. He knew of deep universal mysteries. I was way out of my depth.

We sat at an immaculate worn gray Formica table in his kitchen. I took out my notebook and fumbled with my tape recorder, notebook, my pen, myself. I felt awkward and clumsy. My preparations felt frivolous. The situation called for something weighty.

I’d prepared questions about the changes he’d seen over his more than 80 years. But they felt immensely inadequate. “Tell me about your religion,” felt ridiculous. His religion? Really? How does one jump into questions about the very basis of a culture? Every question seemed either too trivial to warrant his attention or impossible to answer in less than a lifetime.

When he began talking, he continued for 30 or 40 minutes, directing his words toward the kitchen sink on the other side of the room. I tried to jot things down but couldn’t form coherent thoughts. It may have been the fault of the refrigerator motor. It never stopped. How could anyone live with such a loud refrigerator?

I strained to listen.

His words flowed, tumbling over one another, eddying off, moving forward.

But never any more graspable than the water of the St. Mary’s River that now forms a political barrier that divides what was one nation into two separate countries, Canada and the United States.4

LEFT: SUSAN MOORE // RIGHT: COURTESY OF SHINGWAUK RESIDENTIAL SCHOOLS CENTRE, ALGOMA UNIVERSITY

A Sault Sainte Marie writer reflects on the interview of a lifetime. TEXT BY LESLIE ASKWITH

essay | up in michigan

He must have spoken about his understanding of his world. I could hear only with my understanding of mine.

In the end, my reporter’s notebook contained a few phrases, broken strings too short to tie together. My tape recorder had picked up only the refrigerator’s drone, so loud it muffled his words.

Recently I looked back at old publications done by our Win Awenen Nisitotung staff. I hadn’t written an article about Dan Pine, but there was a beautiful photo of him, because he was beautiful.

It shows a smooth-cheeked man who looks younger than 80, wrinkles where life puts them and deep-set gentle eyes. It brought back the feeling in that kitchen, the power of his presence and voice.

That impression is still more vivid than any from the many articles I wrote.

I found an online recording of him that was made at about the time we met. He was addressing a group of his own people and his words are perfectly clear. “It’s so hard sometimes to fit into another culture,” he is saying. “Which … you, you got to wedge yourself in there.

You don’t belong there. Your education is different.”

Maybe that was my lesson during our interview, not to try to wedge myself into a culture that was not mine. Maybe Dan Pine and the refrigerator were in cahoots. The best way for me to receive that message was to not understand any of the words I was hearing.

I still feel sympathy and sadness for the cruelties we humans continue to inflict on each other, but over the years my guilt has faded. My path is my own, begun by my ancestors who weren’t only people who invaded Indian country, but did many more positive things as well.

And when they didn’t, well, that was my history, too.

Were Dan Pine’s teachings that day intended specifically for me? I hope so.

He was known for his ability to set people on the right path. Sharon Syrette of the Batchewana First Nation wrote a poem about him that may answer that question. She wrote, “… your teachings will always be heard in the stillness of the room for you exist in all.” (“Feelings For Life”, 2015)

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

NOV ’18

21

NICHOLAS 22 ROZNOWSKI MyNorth.com / COOP

GATHERING FOR A MEAL WITH FRIENDS BEFORE THE HUSTLE OF HOLIDAY EVENTS IS HOW MEGAN GILGER OF THE FRESH EXCHANGE USHERS IN A SENSE OF GRATITUDE.

I

t is drizzling and the lake has taken on dark gray tones. Two crackling fires and the scent of wood smoke fills the air at Fieldguide Farmhouse in Central Lake. We instantly feel welcomed and are hugged by all. We’re here to enjoy a Friendsgiving with friends: chef Nicholas Roznowski from COOP, floral designer Kalin Scheick from Sweetwater Floral, and our host Lee Maynard, owner of this 1910 foursquare fieldstone farmhouse inn.

Nicholas is in the kitchen opening jars of pumpkin preserves and poached pears saved from the harvest a few months prior. The air is heady with roasting vegetables and fresh herbs.

There is no lack of goodness in this scene.

Creating a gathering of friends is important any time of year, but it seems as we close out fall and we draw closer to the holiday season our gatherings with those we love and enjoy becomes an even more exciting part of the season. Our little crew all has something to offer to bring this gathering together. Each brings expertise to pull off a simple and beautiful gathering that pays respect to the beauty of this place Lee has created.

Together we prep. Lee stokes fires to keep the house warm and inviting.

Kalin pulls together table arrangements out on the porch with Maple her Bernese Mountain Dog. I tuck evergreen stems in the rope-tied napkins—just some cedar cut from the hedge. There is nothing better than using what is available to us right outside.

It isn’t long before Nicholas brings out snacks and things to be shared as we all work. We stop and clink cheers, refuel and talk about how thankful we are to enjoy life in this beautiful place.

As the sun lowers in the sky, Nicholas pulls the chicken out of the oven

for dinner. Lighting candles and filling wine glasses is all that is left to be done.

We each take a seat and the conversations from the afternoon while getting everything ready carries to the table nearly seamlessly. We make jokes about who is the head of the table and reference the dinner scene in Chevy Chase’s Christmas Vacation, but we know better than to think Nicholas’s bird is anything but perfect.

Sure enough, it’s as amazing as we could have dreamed. The food, the laughter, the wine, and even the coming together to do the dishes. As our conversation continued well past the meal and the fires were stoked again and again, we felt warm and filled in the way only an intentional and simple evening with friends in November can warm you.

The snow began to stick for the first time as we drove home that night, but the evening left us ready and prepared for the winter months ahead.

A NATURAL ARRANGEMENT L Natural elements make all the difference—I like dried lavender, dried hydrangea blooms, or sprigs or branches you find on a walk.

Up North this time of year offers amazing foraging opportunities.

L On the evergreen side, November is the best time to start working in “holiday” greens subtly and they hold so well in arrangements. Look for cedar, pine and spruce as great starters.

L Your vessel is the easiest way to make a statement—think beyond traditional vases. I like to hunt for them at True North Interior Design & Antiques in Charlevoix.

EASYGOING GATHERINGS LN o need for anything fancy—neutral plates and napkins work great.

Don’t overthink it. The food is the centerpiece.

L Use varying heights of candles to warm your guests’ faces in the candlelight during the meal.

Simple white tapers are perfect.

L Allow everyone to have a task they oversee. Giving guests and friends a chance to participate makes everyone feel a part of the experience.

L Stoke fires before friends arrive so they feel instantly warm upon entering the space for the evening.

L Fourme d’Ambert (French blue cheese) L Canned pears or pear preserves L Grilled pearl onions L Fresh pumpkin purée, seasoned with cinnamon, cloves, ginger, nutmeg, mace and allspice L Fresh herbs and gem lettuces L Flatbread crackers

— Megan Gilger of the design and lifestyle blog The Fresh Exchange,

— Kalin Scheick, floral designer at Petoskey-based Sweetwater Floral, sweetwaternorth.com

THE BEST WELCOME SNACK Create a cheese and crackers spread like none other.

(To cook with fresh pumpkin, bake it as you would any winter squash.

Cool then scrape out the pulp and purée in a blender/food processor.)

Mix and match cheese and accompaniements on flatbread crackers.

— Nicholas Roznowski, chef/owner at Petoskey’s COOP, cooptables.com

thefreshexchange.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '18

23

KALIN SCHEICK / SWEETWATER FLORAL + MAPLE

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MEGAN GILGER / THE FRESH EXCHANGE

THE PERFECT FALL SALAD Here’s Nicholas’s secret formula for crave-worthy salad.

CHIPOTLE ROASTED CHICKEN Carve into this delectable bird from Nicholas Roznowski, chef/owner at Petoskey’s COOP, and get ready for cheers.

1 chicken, washed & patted dry with paper towel 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons fresh thyme, minced 5 tablespoons honey 2 tablespoons lemon juice 5 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 K tablespoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons ground chipotle powder 1 teaspoon Dijon or stone ground mustard Allow chicken to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Whisk remaining ingredients together in a small bowl.

Rub glaze over entire chicken and place in a shallow roasting pan, fitted with a rack. (Coarsely chopped veggies layered on bottom of pan also work as an impromptu “rack”). Roast for 30 minutes until skin has browned.

Reduce heat to 350 degrees and rotate the pan 180 degrees.

Roast for another 30 minutes, occasionally basting the chicken with its juices by using a spoon or brush.

Chicken is done when the internal temperature reaches 180 degrees in the thickest part of the bird.

PUMPKIN BREAD WITH BUTTER! Need we say more? Find the recipe here: MyNorth.com/pumpkinbread

Choose greens to your liking—he goes with a healthy mix of fresh spinach, kale, Swiss chard, and watercress. Rinse and dry greens, set aside.

Go for a variety of fall vegetables including beets, carrots, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, fennel, onions, etc. Having some raw, roasted and pickled items makes for a tasty contrast in flavors.

For a quick vinaigrette, shake together vigorously in a jar: M cup olive oil, L cup fresh squeezed lemon juice, kosher salt and fresh ground pepper to taste.

Shave on big curls of nutty, fruity Parmesan cheese with a vegetable peeler.

And for crunch, his take on roasted pumpkin seeds: ROASTED PEPITAS 2

cups raw pepita seeds

IN A SMALL BOWL COMBINE AND MIX: 2 tablespoons vegetable oil ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon paprika ¼ teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon Tabasco sauce 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce Preheat oven to 250 degrees.

Add pepitas and spread on baking sheet, bake uncovered for 45 minutes until dry and crispy. Cool.

BOOK YOUR HOME BASE Yes, Fieldguide Farmhouse offers lodging accommodations for individuals as well as groups—the entire house sleeps up to eight. The hosts love animals and have a friendly dog Louie and cat Daisy, so well-behaved pets are welcome.

Availability ranges from two to five nights and extended stays can happily be arranged. Located within 10 miles of Shanty Creek Resort and Glacial Hills Pathway, there’s lots of access to adventure and early winter’s magical peace and quiet when you return. fieldguidefarmhouse.com More options: It can mean booking years in advance in some cases to score the most popular Lake Michigan rentals plus often you can’t rent one for less than a week during the summer. Not so in November, when dates are more flexible, rates far lower. First, gather some friends. At Leelanau Vacation Rentals, the company’s “Empire Beach” House lets the six of you relax from a beachside perch at just $141 a night per couple (including all fees but with a two-night minimum). Downtown is just a beach stroll away. Or gather the whole gang. “Log Home” south of Northport sleeps 21 and rents for $3,150 for three nights in November, $11,100 a week in summer. lvrrentals.com. — Kim Schneider Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '18

25

FOR DECADES, IF YOU GOT INTO TROUBLE IN THE MICHIGAN WOODS YOU WANTED CONSERVATION OFFICER JOHN BORKOVICH THERE. LIKEWISE, IF YOU WERE TROUBLE IN THE MICHIGAN WOODS, OFFICER BORKOVICH WAS THE LAST PERSON YOU’D WANT TO SEE. YEP, SURE AS SHOOTIN’ NO MATTER WHAT THE ISSUE WAS, THE 6-FOOT-2-INCH OFFICER (RECIPIENT OF MICHIGAN CONSERVATION OFFICER OF THE YEAR AND THE SHIKAR SAFAR INTERNATIONAL OFFICER OF THE YEAR AWARDS) WOULD FIND YOU BY TRUCK, FOOT, SNOWMOBILE, PLANE—WHATEVER IT TOOK TO GET THE JOB DONE. IN HIS MEMOIR, WILDLIFE 911: ON PATROL (ARBUTUS PRESS, 2017), BORKOVICH CHRONICLES HIS 27 YEARS AS A MICHIGAN CONSERVATION OFFICER. IF THE STORIES READ A BIT LIKE BOYS LIFE MAGAZINE CIRCA 1960S, THAT’S WHY WE LOVE THEM. IT SEEMS TO US THAT THE WORLD COULD USE A FEW MORE BORKOVICH TYPES. WHICH IS WHY WE CHOSE TO EXCERPT THE CHAPTER BELOW THAT INCLUDES JOHN’S BROTHER, MIKE—A FORMER NORTHERN MICHIGAN CONSERVATION OFFICER AND CURRENT LEELANAU COUNTY SHERIFF. — ELIZABETH EDWARDS

15 SAFE HUNTING TIPS. Officer Borkovich would approve.

MyNorth.com/safehunting

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MyNorth.com

N E E D L E I N A H AY S TA C K

Conservation officers are on the hunter’s mind a lot. When people are hunting or poaching, they think about the game warden, especially if they are poaching. They wonder what tree we are hiding behind. They think we are everywhere and any minute, we might jump out. Poachers look at low flying airplanes, thinking that they are DNR spotting officers. Poachers even drive by the local conservation officers’ homes to check to see if the patrol truck is at home. It’s nice when legal hunters also think of conservation officers often. When they see or hear of possible poaching, they often think of a single officer, in hopes that they can call that officer for help. It is nice to know we are thought of often.

There are other times that we are thought of which are not so obvious. This story involves a lost hunter who was freezing to death and wishing John Borkovich could find him and save him.

One night, St. Clair County dispatch received a 911 cell phone call from a lost and very cold hunter. Dispatch contacted me and also sent several of their units and summoned the Grant and Burtchville Township Fire Departments to respond to the location of the lost hunter. Several of us first responders met at the lost hunter’s vehicle. It is amazing how much compassion and regard for human life that our law enforcement and fire department personnel have.

We all rushed to the scene to eagerly begin braving the bitter cold in search of the lost man. We set up a command post, and along with police, firemen, and ambulance personnel on standby, we plotted our strategy. One more call from the hunter came into 911 where he stated that his phone battery was dying and that he was also dying, he was getting very cold and was going to lie down.

My brother Mike (also a Michigan Conservation Officer at the time) was patrolling with me as we met all the emergency first responders and expressed our concern about the subject’s survival chances if we could not find him soon. For several hours you see, the temperature was six degrees Fahrenheit, and there was a 30 mile an hour northeast wind blowing. The wind chill could soon become deadly.

We all searched and searched the rugged terrain along the Black River. The hunter was lost somewhere out there in some of the thickest, wildest habitat for miles around. The absence of snow only harmed our efforts of trying to locate the man. Now, very dark and getting colder, we felt a sense of urgency as we checked and searched the area. No luck again was the response from the other search teams. We all met back at the command post that we had set up near the waiting ambulance.

I told the firemen and police that my brother Mike and I would take a team of searchers and (thinking out of the box) go in the complete opposite direction from where the subject thought he was. We walked a mile or so and slowly searched the autumn olive and multiflora rose thickets for the poor guy. Every once in awhile we would stop and listen for possible distress calls. We were all tangled up in a massive multifloral rose infestation when we stopped to listen again.

My brother Mike said, “Everyone hold still, I hear a voice ahead of us.” Sure enough, we could hear a faint “help me” and “John, John,” coming from the tangle ahead of us. Oh my, I felt like someone just gave me a million dollars. I swelled up with pride at the fact that the dying man was crying out my name for his salvation. We anxiously walked and crawled into the brush, and from about 15 to 20 feet away, we heard, “John, is that you?” Then we slowly and excitedly made it to the missing hunter.

The freezing man had curled up into the fetal position and was suffering from hypothermia, and later told us that he believed that he was going to die in that spot and knew his life was over.

He looked at us and said, “John, I knew if anyone could find me, it would be you.” That sure made me feel proud. It’s a really good feeling to know that hunters, fishermen, and outdoors people rely on us so much. We touch a lot of lives in so many different ways.

We took the freezing man to the waiting ambulance, and all gave each other high fives for another job well done. The appreciative hunter did send a thank you letter to all the firemen, and to my brother and me for saving his life. Getting to him was like finding a needle in a haystack but more rewarding!

—John Borkovich

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Traverse Magazine. lissa@traversemagazine.com // Andy Wakeman is an editorial and commercial photographer proud to call Northern Michigan home. andywakemanphoto.com

READ ON!

There’s plenty more wild tales where this came from. Snag a copy of Wildlife 911: On Patrol by veteran Michigan Conservation Officer John Borkovich and discover all the behind-the-scenes pluck and grit it takes to protect our Michigan wildlife and natural resources. wildlife911officer.com =

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '18

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WE’VE GOT THE BUZZ ON PERFECT POWDER, NEW GEAR AND THE COZIEST FIRESIDE GETAWAYS STRAIGHT FROM NORTHERN MICHIGAN’S MOST BELOVED WINTER RESORTS AND COMMUNITY HILLS. WE PROMISE YOU HAVEN’T SEEN IT ALL. TEXT BY KATIE DUDLETS // PHOTOS COURTESY OF FISHER THE DOG AND CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN

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PLAN A SKI-CATION. Find the best runs, events, specials and more all winter long. MyNorth.com/SkiUpNorth

CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN

WINTER WEATHER FORECAST Here’s our crystal ball-call for this winter’s weather: No one knows for sure. Some meteorologist are pointing to milder weather thanks to the El Niño effect, while the Farmer’s Almanac is warning folks to get out their show shovels. Either way, WPBN’s meteorologists Joe Charlevoix says, not to worry, our resorts have you covered: “The resorts can make tons and tons of snow. While natural snow is manna from heaven for the resorts, they can keep the slopes in great shape with their own snowmaking!”

PUMP UP THE POWDER Thanks to new snowmaking infrastructure, Shanty Creek (shantycreek.com) and Nub’s Nob (nubsnob.com) will be pumping out even more precipitation, allowing the resorts to compensate for the higher temperatures and open terrain earlier in the season.

Meanwhile, Boyne Mountain (boynemountain.com) has rebuilt its intake screen system, improving the snowmaking water quality so you can revel in the perfect powder.

CREATURE COMFORTS OR DEFROST AND REFUEL Nub’s Nob has a brand new espresso bar for warming up and waking up. Craving a pizza and a microbrew or hot chocolate? A full kitchen and full bar at Timberlee Hills (timberleehills.com ) has something for the entire family. Boyne Highlands (boynehighlands.com) has truly outdone itself with their food court, now with a yogurt bar, house-baked goods and enhanced ramen offerings for quick, onthe-go energy. The Slopeside Lounge is launching a late night menu that will be available until 1 a.m.

TOTALLY TUBULAR With freshly-carved additional lanes, Mount Holiday (mt-holiday.com ) has expanded its tube run to accommodate the ever-growing number of tubers. THE spot for pure tubing fun, Timberlee Hills has purchased additional tubes to expand its rental fleet, even bringing double tubes into the mix so you can experience all the downhill fun with a friend.

RENTAL REFRESH To make sure you’re stylin’ on the slopes this winter, three of our Northern Michigan resorts have updated rental equipment for the season. Shanty Creek has a brand-new haul from Rossignol,

including skis, snowboards and boots. Mount Holiday also updated and expanded its ski and snowboard rental fleet and you’ll find brand new Atomic cross-country skis at Crystal Mountain (crystalmountain.com).

EPIC EXPANSIONS This year, Shanty Creek has excavated its trails by nearly 20 feet, allowing for side-by-side track-set trails and plenty of space for groomed skate skiing. There’s also a new Nordic Center at Schuss Village, providing out-the-door access to a variety of trails for skiers of every proficiency level. Timberlee Hills finished a massive remodel this summer, resulting in a completely revamped lodge.

You can also find a recently constructed lodge on the Mount Holiday property. And finally, Hickory Hills (traversecitymi.gov; preservehickory.com) underwent a sizable, much-celebrated renovation in the off-season, so expect to see a brand new lodge in addition to more ski runs.

EASY RIDING Pick up your lift tickets faster thanks to self-serve “vending machines” at Shanty Creek. Find the self-ticketing kiosks at Ivan’s and The Lodge at Cedar River. Mount Bohemia (mtbohemia.com) is introducing the Monkey’s Bus, a new backcountry vehicle to help you focus on your vacation rather than transportation to the best runs.

Boyne Mountain rebuilt the load ramp on the Victor and Ramshead lifts and added a new Wintersteiger Machine to improve your ski and snowboard service. Nub’s Nob added 215 new compartments to their expanded locker room and has added two new pads to their lift, making the ride up as comfortable as possible.

FAMILY FUN Ensuring all-ages fun, Crystal Mountain is building a snow playground in the center of the village this winter. (Let the kiddos blow off some steam while you’re being pampered in the spa.) Plus, Boyne Mountain reshaped the Ramshead Terrain Park, so all of your daredevils can flaunt their most elaborate stunts.

Kaitlin Dudlets was an editorial intern at Traverse and is a recent graduate of Michigan State University. writtenbykaitlinrenee.com // Photos courtesy of Fisher and Crystal Mountain.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '18

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CHEESE: We are smitten with the sharp, edgy, melty Michigan-made Pinconning cheeses found in the dairy end-cap at Ebels General Store in Falmouth.

SPICES: Greet the wooden gnomes outside Alden Mill House and enter an old world spice emporium where you can get pepper and paprika that actually pack a punch. (Say that five times fast).

HERBS: Bear Creek Organic Farm in Petoskey keeps ya local year-round.

CHIPS: After their turn in the oven, these gooey cheesy potatoes need a bit of crunch and a kiss of additional saltiness. Great Lakes Kettle Cooked Originals use, yep, Michigan potatoes, cooked in small batches.

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SKILLET: Grab a sturdy 12-inch cast iron that would make a lumberjack mess hall cook proud at Cutler’s in Petoskey or Mary’s Kitchen Port in T.C. Note: this recipe also fits perfectly in a 13x9-in. baking dish.

POTATOES: Starchy, sauce-smoothing Russets are the tater for the job. Look for the sticker with Kitchen Farms—4th-generation Elmira grower—on bags at Meijer. Slice potatoes 1/8-inch with Kyocera Adjustable Mandoline, at Crystal Crate & Cargo in Beulah.

MILK: Go whole for this dish. Shetler Family Dairy in Kalkaska has you covered.

Please Pass the Cheesy Potatoes MICHIGANDERS ARE POTATO PROUD WHEN IT COMES TO OUR ULTIMATE GET-TOGETHER DISH. SPOON RIGHT IN AND SEE WHY. BYLINE BY EMILY BETZ TYRA // PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

A

switch flips in November when dusk comes by the time we get home. It’s the only cue many of us need to tug on cozy clothes...and unleash our down-home cooking tendencies. Pastas, potatoes and other carbs stashed in the back of the pantry get comfy with the dairy products in the fridge. It feels instinctual, like we’re modern pioneers raiding the root cellar for tuber or two, then hitting up the larder for some cheese.

As an editor, keeping fresh on food trends is part of my job. I celebrate regional preferences, and especially cherish the things that are purely Michigan. So I eagerly took the bait when Google researchers revealed the most Googled Thanksgiving recipe in every state in a digital map that went viral on the web.

Oh, Michigan, you did not disappoint. Cheesy potatoes for the win.

Fluffy mashed and marshmallowtopped sweet potato casseroles are invited to our collective Thanksgiving table, but it’s not a good time until the cheesy potatoes show up, like the fun aunt who gets everyone laughing through awkward pauses and puts hearts at ease.

Cheesy potatoes certainly have my heart. They were my Midwestern mom’s mightiest dish, and she taught me how to make them with convenience products: Ore-Ida potatoes, cream-ofwhatever soup, a tub of sour cream, lots of mild cheddar and a blanket of buttered Kellogg’s Corn Flakes, or, to my delight, potato chips that she let me crush in a Ziploc. My sister and I tried a skinny edition of the mother recipe when we were in our 20s and

abandoned it quickly. Mom, as usual, was right.

The cornflake-topped variety was my go-to when I lived in downtown Traverse City and worked as a young staffer at this very magazine. My grandparents drove down on certain Sundays from Northport to have dinner with my husband and me. We were totally just kids. I was freaked out that the homemade French dressing was not holding up to Grandma’s and Andy was hoping that the steaks from Maxbauer Meat Market would not be overcooked when we sliced into them.

But we always had cheesy potatoes on the menu as our saving grace.

Our 1930’s Cape Cod had a heavy swinging door from the kitchen to the dining room, and I swept through it with a molten-hot pan of cheddarcloaked creamy potatoes with their gilded crust, and left all my screw-ups behind in the kitchen. I set the cheesy potatoes on the table—Grandma probably nudged a potholder under them just before I did—with my heart overflowing. They were going to be good. Papa took giant scoops, ate them with gusto along with the black, crispy steaks.

I always sent him with the rest home, my tiny gesture after all the kindnesses he gave me, including slipping me a twenty for those steaks we had burned.

He would call me the next day and say how delicious these potatoes were for breakfast with his eggs.

As much of a grasshopper cook I was at the time, I just kept at it.

I became a food reporter at Traverse Magazine, watching the true pros in our Up North farms, creameries, and restaurant kitchens, then later editor

at a national food magazine, before returning to my Traverse roots. And as I observed, I became a bolder cook.

I got out the mandoline and shingled thin potatoes in the pan like a cobbled roof on a snug cottage. I made a roux then added Shetler Family Dairy milk and fresh cheese made nearby. I even forsake Mom’s corn flakes, showering experiments like crispy local leeks on top. If people were over, I said “look away a second” and grated on even more cheese before I put the whole hefty dish in the oven to get golden and the snowy potatoes to become soft and creamy and ready to dig into.

The best part: as artisan or as 80s old-school as the ingredients that go into it, cheesy potatoes are always come-together food. Easy to share and to offer seconds. Party potatoes. And that’s one more funny thing, I don’t believe Google counted in its official Thanksgiving food tally by state all the pet names we have for cheesy potatoes.

Party potatoes, hashbrown casserole, cheesy scalloped potatoes, and classic au gratin—more like “awgrotten” the way we say it.

So who’s bringing the cheesy potatoes? I hope you are.

Emily Tyra is editor of Traverse. emily@traversemagazine.com / David Weidner is a commercial and landscape photographer who resides in the Northwoods of Michigan. www.dweidnerphoto.com

FALL COMFORT. These cheesy recipes will warm you from the inside out.

MyNorth.com/ComfortFood

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '18

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4 Tablespoons butter (plus additional for greasing skillet) 1 teaspoon ground mustard K teaspoon salt K teaspoon pepper K teaspoon paprika V teaspoon nutmeg K teaspoon fresh thyme 2 cloves garlic, minced N cup all-purpose flour 2 cups whole milk 2 cups grated sharp Pinconning OR cheddar cheese 1 K cups grated mild Pinconning OR mild cheddar cheese (divided) 3 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced N cup grated Parmesan O cup crushed potato chips

Minced chives

Additional fresh thyme 32

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Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a large pot or Dutch oven, melt butter over medium heat, add spices and garlic and cook 1 minute or until fragrant. Whisk in flour, cook while whisking 3 minutes.

Whisk in milk, smoothing out any lumps. Bring to a boil. Immediately reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until thickened slightly, about 5 minutes.

Gradually stir in 2 cups sharp Pinconning (or sharp cheddar) and 1 cup mild Pinconning (or mild cheddar). Add potatoes and toss to coat. Simmer in sauce for 5 minutes.

Pour potatoes into a well-buttered 12-inch cast iron skillet. Top with remaining K cup mild cheese and N cup Parmesan, and bake, loosely covered with foil for 25 minutes. Remove foil and bake 15 minutes more or until cheese is bubbly and potatoes are tender. Carefully remove from oven (handle and pan are hot!). Sprinkle with crushed potato chips, chives and thyme. Serves 8-10.

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contents

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Breanne Kerner

DIRECTOR OF SALES

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MARKETING DIRECTOR DIRECTOR OF AUDIENCE ENGAGEMENT AND BRAND STRATEGY MYNORTH TICKETS MANAGER OFFICE MANAGER CONTROLLER

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Ann Gatrell Chris Hunt Cyndi Ludka Drew Warner Jill Hayes Jim Driver Meg Lau

21 Boyne City 22 Elk Rapids 25 Traverse City

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38 Leelanau

Hannah Malinowski

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Libby Stallman

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A Supplement to

FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 Fax: 231.941.8391

Reprints Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174.

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Subscriber Services Visit MyNorth.com and click on “Subscriptions” to change your address or to review your account. Please e-mail other subscription inquiries to traverse@pcspublink.com or call 800.785.8632 between 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. EST.

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Woo the rock hound in your life with a Petoskey stone pendant tied up with string. ... Korner Gem, Traverse City, 231-929.9175, kornergem.com

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Snip holly or cedar from the backyard hedges and attach with festive Washi tape. A pencil eraser dipped in white paint makes pretty polka dots— use the dull side of the paper for best adhesion.

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At last, an idea for all those corks you’ve stashed.

Make a mini-tree with an evergreen bough and a cork “trunk.” Doodle on a tiding of joy.

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(1) FRESHWATER PEARL WRIST WRAPPING BRACELETS, Elizabeth Blair Fine Pearls, Harbor Springs, 231. 526.7500, elizabethblair.com, $100 each (2) WOMAN’S LEOPARD SPERRYS, Propellers, Harbor Springs, 231.526.6885, $85, walstrom.com/propellers $85

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Petoskey Santa flies in to light the big, fat evergreen in the middle of Pennsylvania Park at this city’s Holiday Open House, held always on the first Friday of December. After, Santa visits with wee ones in the park gazebo, resplendent in lights and garland for the occasion.

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WE BELIEVE IT’S WHAT’S INSIDE THAT COUNTS!

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CELEBRATE IN

C HA RLEVOIX

HOLIDAY PARADE AND TREE LIGHTING CELEBRATION November 23, 3–6 p.m. visitcharlevoix.com

Charlevoix Lake Charlevoix may be ice, but the shore-side cookies and cocoa by the Christmas tree in downtown East Park warm the tummies of the crowds that assemble on Bridge Street for the annual Holiday Parade and Tree Lighting on November 23.

PHOTO BY MICHAEL MURPHY IV PHOTOGRAPHY

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Find more gift ideas, seasonal crafts and recipes at MyNorth.com/holidays

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(1) SANBORN MINNESOTA PADDLE, Schulman Paddleworks, Charlevoix, 231.437.3157, schulmanpaddleworks.com, $170.00 (2) NEWARI HANDKNIT HAT & GLOVES, J. Phillips, Charlevoix, 231.547.6072, FB, gloves $29; hat: $39 (3) DOG BOWL, The Lake House, Charlevoix, 231.437.3425, thelakehousecharlevoix.com, 231.437.3425, $25

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(4) LES ACROBATES STACKING MEN, Ga GA For Kids, Charlevoix, 231.547.1600, gagaforkids.com, $29 (5) FELT BIRDS, True North Interior Design & Antiques, Charlevoix, 231.437.3833, FB, $10 each

(7) PENDLETON RAIN BOOTS, National Park CollectionClothing Company, Charlevoix, 231.547.6361, myclothingco.com, $105 (8) ROCKYOURKID GUITAR SHIRT, Ga GA For Kids, Charlevoix, 231.547.1600, gagaforkids.com,$49

(6) ROCKYOURKID BALLET OUTFITS, Ga GA For Kids, Charlevoix, 231.547.1600, gagaforkids.com, small $55; large $58

HOLIDAYS

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Dress in Style this Holiday with a custom look from thistle! Our stylists will help you find the perfect outfit for yourself or loved ones. We also carry gift items including jewelry, Swan Creek candles, Beekman 1802, and dog gifts including our NEW doggie denim!!

Nov. 23: Holiday Tree Lighting Dec. 1: Holiday Open House Dec. 7: 26th Annual Holly Days Dec. 28: Second City Holiday Revue

(231) 547-2101 | Charlevoix.org

THISTLESTYLE.COM

Children’s and Women’s Clothing and Accessories shoes - books - toys - and more!

Pre-order Your Holiday Baked Goods!

325 Bridge St. - Charlevoix - 231.437.3395 LIKE US ON FACEBOOK!

www.gagaforkids.com 323 Bridge Street • Charlevoix, MI 49720 • 231.547.1600

Gourmet Salt Water Taffy For a step back in time in Downtown Charlevoix Great Stocking Stuffers and Advent Calendar Gifts We also carry SUGAR FREE taffy

231-547-9288

TheTaffyBarrel.com

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Traverse Magazine

LOCAL TICKETS ONE PLACE 11/10 11/10 12/31

FLAPJACK & FLANNEL TOAST THE SEASON 2018 ROARING 20’S NEW YEAR’S EVE

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(9) MAPLE SRIRACHA & MAPLE BBQ, Harwood Gold, Charlevoix, 231.437.3900, harwoodgold.com, sriracha $7.95; bbq $6.95 (10) HANDPAINTED CHARLEVOIX CHRISTMAS TREE BULB, Elements, Charlevoix, 231. 547.5820, FB, $10

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(11) GOURMET SALTWATER TAFFY, The Taffy Barrel, Charlevoix, 231.547.9288, thetaffybarrel.com, $4.75/0.5lb (12) UNO DE 50 BRACELET & EARRINGS, J. Phillips, Charlevoix, 231.547.6072, FB, bracelet: $145; earrings: $110

(14) PJ HARLOW PJ SET, Ga GA For Kids, Charlevoix, 231.547.1600, gagaforkids.com, nightie $59.99; lounge pants $67; cardigan $57 (15) TIN WOODY, True North Interior Design & Antiques, Charlevoix, 231.437.3833, FB, $125

(13) ZINC TAGS AND SOAPSTONE CHALK, Bloom Floral Design, Charlevoix, 231.675.9017, bloomfloraldesign.com, tags $10; chalk $8

HOLIDAYS

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Nov. 17: Polar Express PJ Party Nov. 17: Earlier than the Bird Holiday Sales Nov. 22: Kiwanis Turkey Trot 5K & Fun Run Nov. 23: Holiday Open House & Santa Parade Dec. 1: Holiday Hobby Craft Show Dec. 5: Jolly Gingerbread

(231) 582-6222 | BoyneChamber.com

PENINSULA

Downtown Boyne City peninsulaco.com 231.335.7180

COUNTRY NOW THEN COUNTRY NOW & T&HEN HE LAZY RIVER UP U TPHETL AZY RIVER Open 7 Days All year 211 E. Water Street Boyne City (231) 582-2355

Like A White Birch In A Pine Forest

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Check out what’s happening at BoyneCityMainStreet.com TM

out what’s happening at BoyneCityMainStreet.com CheckCheck out what’s happening at BoyneCityMainStreet.com TM

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Traverse Magazine

CELEBRATE IN

BOYNE CITY

SANTA PARADE AND HOLIDAY OPEN HOUSE November 23, 5–9 p.m. boynechamber.com

Boyne City Tiny tots with their eyes aglow will find it hard to sleep after Boyne City’s holiday kickoff on November 23. A Santa parade, visits with Santa, free carriage rides, live nativity scene (pet Gunther the camel!), and as always, beautiful Lake Charlevoix waving happy holidays in the background.

PHOTO BY MICHIGAN BAREFOOT MEMORIES

Find more gift ideas, seasonal crafts and recipes at MyNorth.com/holidays

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(1) 2019 AHMEEK 95 SKIS, Shaggy’s Skis, Boyne City, 231.459.4323, skishaggys.com, $649

(3) KITCHEN BOA TOWEL, Country Now & Then, Boyne City, 231.582.2355, FB, $24.99

(2) MICHIGAN CAP, Boyne Trading Co., 231.582.6445, FB, $22

(4) CHARLEVOIX BREWING CO. HOODIE, Boyne City Tap Room, Boyne City, 231.459.4487, bctaproom.com, $20

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(5) KAVU ACROSS THE SHOULDER BACKPACK, Peninsula, Boyne City, 231.335.7180, peninsulaco.com, $50

(6) BANNED BOOKS MUG, Local Flavor Books, Boyne City, 231.582.7499, localflavorbookstore.com, $15.95

HOLIDAYS

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Elk Rapids Come Dasher, come Dancer, Prancer and Vixen—to Elk Rapids on December 1. This darling town tucked along Lake Michigan, Elk Lake and the Elk River welcomes reindeer to its holiday celebration from 12:30 to 2:30 pm.

As the sun sets, take a free horse-drawn wagon or sleigh ride and then join the carolers around a community bonfire.

PHOTO BY GRAYDON DECAMP

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Traverse Magazine

CELEBRATE IN

ELK RAPIDS

HOLIDAY OPEN HOUSE December 1, 12:30-8 p.m. elkrapidschamber.org

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(1) PISTIL LEATHER GLOVES, Stuff & Such, Elk Rapids, 231.264.9093, FB, mens $50; womens $76

(5) METAL BEACH HOUSE SIGN, Ginger Snaps, Elk Rapids, 231.264.8922, FB $16.99

(9) PERFORATED MOTIF TOTE, Haystacks, Elk Rapids, 231.498.2086, haystacks.net, $64.00

(2) SOCKS IN BALLS, Stuff & Such, Elk Rapids, 231.264.9093, FB, $10.95

(6) MICHIGAN MITTEN CANDLE, Relish, Elk Rapids, 231.498.2272, relishtc.com, $34.00

(10) METAL CAR AND TRAILER SCULPTURE, Mullaly’s 128 Gallery, Elk Rapids, 231.264.6660, mullalys128.com, $575

(3) TEXTURED POCKET DRESS, Relish, Elk Rapids, 231.498.2272, relishtc.com, $55.00

(7) BATH BOMBS & SOAP DISH, Wildflower Soapworks, Elk Rapids, 231.264.8000, wildflowersoapworks.com, daisy: $8 each, balls: $4 each, soap dish: $4

(11) TWO TONE BIAS SKIRT, Haystacks, Elk Rapids, 231.498.2086, haystacks.net, $56.00

(4) TINY MUSIC BOXES, Nature Connection, Elk Rapids, 231.264.6330, natureconnection-er.com, $7.95 each

(8) OLLIE’S SKI TRIP CHILDREN’S DISH SET ILLUSTRATED

BY SWEDISH ARTIST ELSA BESKOW, Cellar 152 Wine & Gourmet Market, 231.264.9000, cellar152.com, $38

Find more gift ideas, seasonal crafts and recipes at MyNorth.com/holidays

HOLIDAYS

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Holiday gathering made easy!

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Great corporate gift ideas!

601 Randolph St. Traverse City 231-922-8022 • www.baybreadco.com

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Traverse Magazine

130 HALL STREET TRAVERSE CITY 231-252-4132

CELEBRATE IN

TRAVERSE CITY

DOWNTOWN LIGHT PARADE, SANTA’S ARRIVAL & TREE LIGHTING November 17, 5:30–9 p.m.

LADIES’ NIGHT IN DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY December 6, 5–9 p.m

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY COCOA CRAWL Sip cocoa around downtown and vote for your favorite!

December 2, 11 a.m–2 p.m.

MEN’S NIGHT IN DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY 5–9p.m., December 13 downtowntc.com

T raverse City Grand Traverse Bay winks in the background as happy families make their way from the Christmas tree set in the middle of Cass Street (at Front Street) to Santa’s House at City Centre Plaza a block away.

Note: the festivities are the Saturday before Thanksgiving this year— earlier than usual!

PHOTO BY JILL COOK

HOLIDAYS

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(1) GOLD MEASURING SET, Wood & Cloth, Traverse City, 231.421.8710, woodandcloth.com, cups $17; spoons $10

(5) CROCHET COASTERS, Peppercorn, Traverse City, 231.941.4146, peppercorntc.com, $9.99 set of 4

(2) QUICK REFERENCE TEA TOWEL, Peppercorn, Traverse City, 231.941.4146, peppercorntc.com, $9.99

(6) STERLING SILVER FOREST FLOOR LINK BRACELET WITH GOLD LEAF, Becky Thatcher Designs, Traverse City, 231.947.5088, beckythatcherdesigns.com, $325

(3) HAMMERED BRASS BAR SET, Ella's, Traverse City, 231.947.9401, swingbyellas.com, tools and shaker, $70 each (4)HAPPY CAMPER CERAMIC SERVING TRAYS, Suhm-thing, Traverse City, 231.941.0150, FB $32 set

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Traverse Magazine

(7) STERLING SILVER LONG BARK TEXTURED SADDLE RING WITH DIAMOND, Becky Thatcher Designs, Traverse City, 231.947.5088, beckythatcherdesigns.com, $650

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(8) FUSTINIS STARTER PACK, Three olive oils and three vinegars, Fustini's Oils & Vinegars, Traverse City, 231.944.1145, fustinis.com, $45 (9) PETERSON’S BACKYARD BIRDS OF THE MIDWEST POSTER, Wildbirds Unlimited, 231.946.0431, traversecity.wbu.com, $18.99 (10) URBAN BIRDWATCHING NOTEBOOK, Premier Floral Design and Gift Emporium, the Village at Grand Traverse Commons, Traverse City, 231.947.1167, premierfloraldesign.com, $8

Find more gift ideas, seasonal crafts and recipes at MyNorth.com/holidays

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(11) HANDMADE 14K GOLD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, Gold and Jaye Jewelry, Traverse City, 231.252.4132, FB, $2600; earrings $549

(14) GOLD MUSHROOM RING WITH DIAMOND, Becky Thatcher Designs, Traverse City, 231.947.5088, beckythatcherdesigns.com, $1795

(12) GROWLER W/ GROWLER DRYER, High Five Threads, Village at Grand Traverse Commons, Traverse City, 231.668.8591, highfivethreads.com, growler $15; dryer $10

(15) LONG GOLD BARK EARRINGS, Becky Thatcher Designs, Traverse City, 231.947.5088, beckythatcherdesigns.com, $650

(13) PURE WOOL CAT BED, Sanctuary, The Village at Grand Traverse Commons, Traverse City, 231.932.0775, sanctuarytc.com, $85

(16) COLOR CHANGING MUGS, Nifty Things, Traverse City, 231.929.9665, niftythingsonline.com, $18.99

(17) MAMA & PAPA BEAR T-SHIRT, Suhm-thing, Traverse City, 231.941.0150, FB $24 each (18) TURKISH COTTON TOWEL, Northern Lights, Traverse City, 231.421.8751, $22 (19) PET TAGS, Nest of Grand Traverse, 231.946.0232, nestofgrandtraverse.com, $14 each (20) CERAMIC CAT DISHES, Peppercorn, Traverse City, 231.941.4146, peppercorntc.com, $3.99 each

HOLIDAYS

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#LETSTAKEAWALK in Downtown Traverse City

Celebrate the holidays with style

224 E. Front Street, Traverse City 231.929.3940 • Like us on

100% HANDMADE GLASS MOSAIC LAMPS - THE PERFECT GIFT! SO MANY COLORS - SO MANY DESIGNS SO BEAUTIFUL AND UNIQUE

Santa’s Arrival, Tree Lighting, and Downtown Light Parade November 17

Downtown Cocoa Crawl December 2

Ladies’ Night December 6

NORTHERN LIGHTS | 113 PARK ST STE 101B TRAVERSE CITY, MI | 231.421.8751

MOSAICLAMPSNYC.COM

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Traverse Magazine

Men’s Night December 13

Fresh. Flavor. Fun. DOWNTOWN • 128 East Front Street Traverse City, MI • 231-941-7632 poppycockstc.com

DOWNTOWN GIFT CERTIFICATES MAKE THE PERFECT GIFT!

(231) 922-2050 downtowntc.com

Artistic Urban Goods

231.486.6805 / 156 e. front st, • tc / open 7 days a week

Given

Over 100 Michigan Makers

Filled with stories and stunning photos for the History Buff, The Foodie, the Armchair-Architect and the Weekend Walleye Warrior, all at the same time.

Limited Time Only $20 | mynorth.com/give | 231.941.5976

122 Cass St. Traverse City Next to the Omelette Shoppe

231•929•0340

MySecretStash.com

CONVENIENT PARKING IN THE LARRY C. HARDY & OLD TOWN PARKING DECKS

HOLIDAYS

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Christmastide

…filling every day with Holiday fun!

@thevillagetc #TheVillageTC Home of Oh My! Pins and the

Grand Traverse Bay Beach Glass Co.

ADD SOME SPICE TO YOUR LIFE

Get yours in our Coffee Bar or online: highergroundstrading.com

In The Village at Grand Traverse Commons 231.932.0775 | sanctuarytc.com

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(22) 45 DEGREE NORTH PENDANT GOLD WITH DIAMOND, $350; PENINSULA PENDANT STERLING SILVER, GOLD WITH DIAMOND, $400, James C. Smith Fine Jewelry, Traverse City, 231.941.3300, jamescsmith.net (23) SPICE SOAP & AFTER SHAVE, Notably Natural, Village at Grand Traverse Commons, Traverse City, 231.929.1100, notablynatural.com, spice soap $5, after shave $14.50 (24) POM BASKETS, Darling Botanical Co. 231.421.8440, darlingbotanical.com, $24 each (25) YOOPER BAR, Michigan Farm Market, 866.544.1088, mifarmmarket.com, The Village at Grand Traverse Commons, $1.99

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(26) PLAID SCARF, Nest of Grand Traverse, Traverse City, 231.946.0232, nestofgrandtraverse.com, $42 (27) CARDINAL SWEATER, My Secret Stash, Traverse City, 231.929.0340, mysecretstash.com, $40 (28) HANDMADE WEEKEND BAG, Northern Lights, Traverse City, 231.421.8751, $750.00

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(31) JUNIPER BERRY COCKTAIL SYRUP, Premier Floral Design and Gift Emporium, the Village at Grand Traverse Commons, Traverse City, premierfloraldesign.com, 231.947.1167, $9.95 (32) MERRY CHRISTMAS RECIPE BOOK, Christmastide, The Village at Grand Traverse Commons, Traverse City, 231.714.5022 The Village at Grand Traverse, FB, $14.99

(29) COMMONS JIGSAW PUZZLE , Christmastide, The Village at Grand Traverse Commons, Traverse City, 231.714.5022 The Village at Grand Traverse, FB, $19.95 (30) MICHIGAN PILLOW, Nest of Grand Traverse, Traverse City, 231.946.0232, nestofgrandtraverse.com, $63.00

Find more gift ideas, seasonal crafts and recipes at MyNorth.com/holidays HOLIDAYS

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Give the Gift Of Fun To Northern Michigan’s #1 Entertainment Center

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Only 6 minutes from The Grand Traverse Mall. Just 1.5 miles west of Menards/Chums Corner

11/8

ZONTA FESTIVAL OF TREES PREVIEW PARTY

Golden-Fowler Home Furnishings, TC 44”Wx6”Dx21”H

11/8

2018 FIFTH ANNUAL IPA CHALLENGE The Little Fleet, TC

11/15 THE LITTLE PRINCE AND THE MAN FROM MARS The Depot, TC

11/17 NMC CHILDREN’S CHOIR & 18 HOLIDAY CONCERT Lars Hockstad Auditorium, TC

METAL WALL SCULPTURE

Metal Wall Art • Candle Holders • Wine Holders • Lanterns • Displays for Running Medals • Custom Orders

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Traverse Magazine

Made in Michigan by natives of the Mitt

Pure Michigan Blue Diamond and Silver Ring only at

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Given No matter where they live now, you and Northern Michigan are still on their minds and in their hearts – they’ll love your gift of Traverse Magazine.

Limited Time Only $20 | mynorth.com/give | 231.941.5976

HOLIDAYS

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find us on

HOLIDAY HENS • Locally crafted by Marilyn Fries • Permanent greens for indoor or outdoor decorating • Available in store only, $49.

• Perfect for those who love farmhouse decorating, backyard farming and the fresh look of greenery at the holidays.

SMOKED & FRESH FISH - SMOKED SAUSAGE - PATE & SEAFOOD

Located in the center of the village of Beulah. Visit us at 262 S. Benzie Blvd.

SHIPPING ALL SEASON - NOVEMBER 1 TO MEMORIAL DAY 231.547.2532 - Find Us On Facebook

EXCEPTIONAL COFFEE FROM A WORLD OF GOOD FRIENDS

SHOP GIFTS at highergroundstrading.com

crystalcrate.com | 231.882.5294

“LOCAL TICKETS ONE PLACE

The Home of Pepper Mill Spices

If you have a kitchen, get in here!

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11/15 ANNIE THE MUSICAL -11/18 Gaylord St. Mary Cathedral School 11/23 A CHRISTMAS CAROL -12/8 Old Town Playhouse, Traverse City 12/2

Gift Baskets & Spice Boxes

IRISH CHRISTMAS IN AMERICA Milliken Auditorium, Traverse City

12/15 BREAKFAST WITH SANTA Grand Traverse Resort & Spa

Personal and Business Gifts!

Make Your Shopping Tastefully Simple!

(213) 331-4711 • (800) 226-5481

aldenmillhouse.com

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Traverse Magazine

ALPINE CHOCOLAT HAUS, 12-PIECE GIFT BOX Alpine Chocolat Haus, Boyne City, 231.582.2355, alpine-chocolat-haus.com, $13.99

AMERICAN SPOON FOODS GIFT SET: Heirloom Red Pepper Relish $12.95, Salted Maple Caramel $12.95, Apricot Jam $10.95, American Spoon, Traverse City, 231.935.4480, spoon.com

Festive and Delish!

A guest bearing food is always welcome.

PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

GREAT LAKES TEA & SPICE LOOSE TEA: Sweetwater Vanilla $8.95, Orange Cream Soother $8.95, Pomegranate White, $16.95 Glen Arbor, 231.645.8327, teaandspice.com

CHERRY PECAN ELARA BAR Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate, Empire, 231.326.3030, grocersdaughter.com, $6

HOLIDAYS

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Traverse Magazine

MYNORTHTICKETS.COM 800.836.0717 125 PARK STREET TRAVERSE CITY, MI 49684

SIX LUGS CHERRY ALMOND PRESERVES Peppercorn, Traverse City, 231.941.4146, peppercorntc.com, $7.99

PANTRY PAIRING SET: OLIVE OIL, VINEGAR AND PESTO Fustini's Oils & Vinegars, Traverse City, 231.944.1145, fustinis.com, $47.85

SALSA BAR IN A BOX: BLACK BEAN, PEACH, BACON Traverse Bay Farms, Elk Rapids, 877.746.7477, traversebayfarms.com, $30

BLACKBERRY PIE FILLING The Fillmore, 231.887.4121, thefillmoreofmanistee.com, $6.99 HOLIDAYS

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Leelanau The town halls, parks and shops of the villages along Leelanau Peninsula’s scenic M22 are aglow with lights and cheer at the holiday season. Check out events from shop-in-your-pjs to tree lightings.

PHOTO BY ANGELA BROWN

CELEBRATE IN

LEELANAU

SUTTONS BAY HOLIDAY OPEN HOUSE November 17, noon–4 p.m.

HOLIDAY IN THE VILLAGE OF SUTTONS BAY December 1 & 2, suttonsbayarea.com NORTHPORT COMMUNITY BAND AND VILLAGE VOICE CHRISTMAS CONCERT December 9, 2 p.m., Northport Public School northportomenachamber.org LELAND’S PJ PARTY & SALE November 23, 8 a.m.–5 p.m.

HOLLYPOP! Old Art Building, Leland November 23–24 MERRY MARKETPLACE, OLD ART BUILDING, LELAND December 1, 10 a.m.–4 p.m., lelandmi.com GLEN ARBOR PAJAMA SHOPPING PARTY November 23, 6:30–9 a.m.

GLEN ARBOR CHRISTMAS TREE LIGHTING & HOLIDAY MARKET PREVIEW PARTY November 23, 6:30–8 p.m.

GLEN ARBOR HOLIDAY MARKETPLACE November 24, 10 a.m.–3:30 p.m., visitglenarbor.com EMPIRE ARTISANS MARKET November 24, 11 a.m.–5 p.m., empirechamber.com

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(1) FOLKLORE MUGS & COFFEE POT, Coastal Glen Arbor, 231.835.2120, crystalriveroutfitters.com/coastal $12 each (2) LITERARY GUEST SOAPS, Lima Bean, Suttons Bay, 231.271.5462, thelimabean.net, $4 each (3) ROBERTO TIRADO TERACOTTA SCULPTURES, Tampico, Leland, 231.256.7747, tampicolelandmi.com, Bird $12, La Luna $85 (4) VIOLIN SHAPED CHEESEBOARD, The Pennington Collection, Northport, 231.386-9890, penningtoncollection.com, $66

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(5) NORTHERN CHRISTMAS ORNAMENTS, Two Fish Gallery, Leland, 231.256. 9350, twofishleland.com, $19.95 each (6) FAMILY MUG WITH LID, Front Porch, Suttons Bay, 231.271.6895, frontporchsuttonsbay.com, $14.99 (7) WOMAN’S HERRINGBONE COAT BY SCHNEIDERS, Bahle’s of Suttons Bay, Suttons Bay, 231.271.3841, bahles.net, $699

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(8) SWEDISH HOLIDAY TOWEL , Northwood Gifts, Glen Arbor, 231.334.3000, northwoodshardware.com, $12 (9) SWEDISH CANDLESTICKS, Northwood Gifts, Glen Arbor, 231.334.3000, northwoodshardware.com, $15 (10) SWEDISH MUG, Northwood Gifts, Glen Arbor, 231.334.3000, northwoodshardware.com, $15 (11) OAKAYZIE SIX-PACK CANNED CIDER, 45 North Vineyard and Winery, fortyfivenorth.com, 231.271.1188, $13.98

HOLIDAYS

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Boring holiday gift exchange?

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GIVE SOME ART’S WEAR, ART’S GOODS & GIFT CERTIFICATES. OPEN DAILY at 7 AM. artsglenarbor.com

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The fun store behind the pink bench

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by MyNorth Media

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Open all year

231-386-9890 Like us on Facebook 40

Traverse Magazine

Leland Pandora-style Bead

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Find more gift ideas, seasonal crafts and recipes at MyNorth.com/holidays

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(12) ITALIAN BALSAM VINEGAR & GREEK FIRST COLD PRESS OLIVE OIL, Great Lakes Tea & Spice, Glen Arbor, 231.645.8327, teaandspice.com, Meyer Lemon Balsamic Vinegar, $17.95, Sweet Cherry Balsamic Vinegar, $24.95, Greek Green Gold Extra Virgin Olive Oil, $21.95

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(16) HOUSE DRINKING CHOCOLATE, Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate, Empire, 231.326.3030, grocersdaughter.com, $3.50

(20) WINE TAPA NO MORE BUGS IN YOUR WINE!, Amoritas Vineyards, Lake Leelanau, 231.994.2300, amoritasvineyards.com, Tapa, $5

(17) FOUR-PIECE CHOCOLATE GIFT BOX, Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate, Empire, 231.326.3030, grocersdaughter.com, $10

(21) PATAGONIA CLASSIC BALKAN HAT, Coastal Glen Arbor, 231.835.2120, crystalriveroutfitters.com/coastal, $35

(13) THREE-STACK RINGS, TOPAZ EARRINGS & RING, Pearl, moonstone, white topaz Arabella, Glen Arbor, 231.645.7225, arabellaconcepts.com, $175; $395 each

(18) HANDPAINTED BLESSINGS BOWL, Shoreline Arts, Suttons Bay, 231.313.4228, shorelinearts309.com, $98

(22) ROCK LIQUID SOAP & SPONGE HOLDER, Painted Bird, Suttons Bay, 231.271.3050, painted-bird.com, $38; $26

(14) MAN’S BEST FRIEND TIE BY BIRD DOG BAY, Dune Berry, Leland, 231.933.0001, duneberry.com, $85

(19) MEND JEWELRY, Miser’s Hoard, Empire, 231.620.1829, the-misers-hoard.business.site, necklace $30; earrings $20

(23) MEN’S SOCKS, Pantherella and Marcollani, Bahle’s of Suttons Bay, Suttons Bay, 231.271.3841, bahles.net, $26-$28

(15) SMATHERS & BRANSON KEY CHAINS, Dune Berry, Leland, 231.933.0001, duneberry.com, $30 each HOLIDAYS

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The Misers’ Hoard Uptown finds in Downtown Empire

Gather around our cozy fireplace with a glass of Ciccone wine. Book your Holiday Party with us!

Find us on Facebook

C I C C O N E V I N E YA R D. C O M

10126 W. Front Street PO Box 576 Empire, MI 49630 - 231.620.1829

Looking for a gift for the wine lover on your list? Look no further! Visit our website for Ciccone wine, logo items and gift certificates!

Brain Storm!

O HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL

GAMES TOYS PUZZLES

Specializing in Smart & Imaginative Fun! 221 St Joseph (M-22) Suttons Bay, MI 231.271.0314 brainstormsb@charter.net

S U T T O N S B AY, M I | 2 3 1 . 2 7 1 . 5 5 5 3

Celebrating 40 Years

Family Values Bowl HUG OFTEN • MAKE PEACE • GIGGLE & LAUGH

231.271.6895 • FrontPorchSuttonsBay.com Downtown Suttons Bay • Open Daily

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(25) PATAGONIA KIDS' HAT, Coastal Glen Arbor, 231.835.2120, crystalriveroutfitters.com/coastal, $29

(26) PATAGONIA KIDS' MITTENS, Coastal Glen Arbor, 231.835.2120, crystalriveroutfitters.com/coastal, $29 each

(29) KATE SPADE INSULATED TUMBLER Dune Berry, Leland, 231.933.0001, duneberry.com, $18

(33) KATE SPADE THERMAL MUG, Dune Berry Leland, 231.933.0001, duneberry.com, $18

(30) PENDLETON MOTOR ROBE , Coastal Glen Arbor, 231.835.2120, crystalriveroutfitters.com/coastal, $99.50

(34) COIN BANK PUZZLE, Coastal, Glen Arbor, 231.835.2120, crystalriveroutfitters.com/coastal, $15

(27) LET’S GO GLAMPING CHILDREN’S OUTFIT, Empire Outdoors, Empire, 231.326.5433, empireoutdoors.com, $29.99

(28) REEL TIRED CHILDREN’S OUTFIT, Empire Outdoors, Empire, 231.326.5433, empireoutdoors.com, $29.99

(31) NEXYZ, Enerdyne, Suttons Bay, 231.271.6033, enerdynet.com, $64.99

(35) MAMA BEAR AND HER CUBS HOODIE, Empire Outdoors, Empire, 231.326.5433, empireoutdoors.com, $39.99

(32) HOME SLACKLINE, Brain Storm, Suttons Bay, 231.271.0314, brainstormsb.com, $62.99

(36) PARADISE BOUND LUGGAGE TAG, Lilly Pulitzer, Dune Berry, Leland, 231.933.0001, duneberry.com, $12

HOLIDAYS

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43

Stuff their stocking with Michigan state parks

Find unique gifts for just about anyone on your list. These goods give twice because every purchase means real support for Michigan’s state parks, trails, waterways and historic sites.

www.goods4mi.com

CHRISTMAS MAGIC (parade, Santa and more) December 8

BENZIE COUNTY COMMUNITY CHRISTMAS CONCERT December 8–9

FESTIVAL OF TREES AT THE BENZIE HISTORICAL SOCIETY November 24–25 benzie.org

CELEBRATE IN

B EULA H

Beulah Give this darling town on Crystal Lake an extra hug-squeeze for its Christmas parade (December 8 this year) award for Best-Decorated Emergency Vehicle. And let us tell you, these first responders know how to decorate!

PHOTO BY KRIS RILEY PRODUCTIONS

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(1) THYMES CANDLE IN COPPER BOWL, Crystal Crate n’ Cargo, Beulah, 231.882.5294, crystalcrate.com, $50

(4) L’ARTISTE LACEUP BOOTS, Luna Boutique, Beulah, 231.882.7359, lunaboutiquebeulah.com, $139

(2) CUDDLE (HANDLELESS) MUGS, 254 South, Beulah, info@254south.com, 254south.com, $21.50 each

(5) METAL REINDEER, Crystal Moon, Beulah, 231.651.5009, FB, $125

(3) CHIKIE BOOTS, Luna Boutique, Beulah, 231.882.7359, lunaboutiquebeulah.com, $142

(6) PINE AND COTTON BOUGHS, Crystal Moon, Beulah, 231.651.5009, FB, $15

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(7) PETOSKEY & PEARL NECKLACE, $148 & ABALONE EARRINGS, $32, Jackleen’s Jems, Beulah, 231.882.2390, jackleensjems.com (8) HANG ANYWHERE DOUBLE HAMMOCK, Crystal Lake Adventure Sports, Beulah, 231.882.2527, crystallakeadventuresports.com, $69.99

HOLIDAYS

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45

— Celebrating 62 Years — S’MORES

1956 - 2018

LIGHTHOUSE

Featuring 100 Michigan artists, Mary’s Gift Gallery is your choice for affordable, handmade gifts this holiday season.

OPEN SEVEN DAYS PER WEEK

SCIENCE LAB

GOOD BURGER

And don’t miss Holiday Market!

CHRISTMAS CAMPERS

Shop online at www.hullsoffrankfort.com

LOCAL TICKETS ONE PLACE 11/30-12/9 NUTCRACKER BALLET Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts, Manistee

Hull’s of Frankfort 419 Main Street, Frankfort | 231-352-4642

Given Send your friends and family on a Northern Michigan vacation every month for just $20 – no, really!

Limited Time Only $20 | mynorth.com/give | 231.941.5976

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Traverse Magazine

CELEBRATE IN

F RA N KF O RT

TREE LIGHTING & SANTA Santa at Frankfort High School (1–3p.m.), free carriage rides all day and tree lighting at 7 p.m., November 24, frankfort-elberta.com

Frankort On November 24, hop aboard a carriage in front of the Frankfort High School for an old-fashioned ride through this storybook town dressed for the holidays. Santa will be in the school from 1 to 3 p.m. and the town Christmas tree is lit at 7 p.m.

PHOTO BY KRIS RILEY PRODUCTIONS

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(1) ROCK HOUND SCOOP, Anet & Ollies Five & Dime, Frankfort, 231.352.8103, FB, 2-foot $12.99; 3-foot $18.99

(3) LAKE MICHIGAN UNSALTED BLANKET, Michigan Rag Co., 231.352.7028, marushka.com $26.99

(2) LOCALLY MADE MITTENS, Hull’s of Frankfort, 231.352.4642, hullsoffrankfort.com $39.99

(4) SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY T-SHIRT, Stormcloud Brewing Company, Frankfort, 231.352.0118, stormcloudbrewing.com, $25

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(5) NATURE’S FRIEND, THE GWEN FROSTIC STORY

BY LINDSEY MCDIVITT AND EILEEN RYAN EWEN, The Bookstore, Frankfort, 231.352.9720, FB, $16.99 (6) FRANKFORT LIFE GUARD OUTFIT, Frannie’s Follies, Frankfort, 231.352.7255, FB, top $16.99; bottoms $15.99

HOLIDAYS

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47

Given Relax! They love it.

For just $20 you sent them a whole year of the best stories and beautiful Northern Michigan life they adore. And each month it arrives, they are reminded of you and your thoughtful and smart gift. $20 for 12 Issues | mynorth.com/give | 231.941.5976

CELEBRATE IN

MANISTEE

Manistee

VICTORIAN SLEIGHBELL PARADE AND OLD CHRISTMAS WEEKEND December 6–9 manisteechamber.com

Top hat? Check! Bustled skirt and matching bonnet? Check.

Hankering for roasted chestnuts?

Check! You’re ready for Manistee’s fabulous and famous Victorian Sleighbell Parade and Old Christmas Weekend PHOTO BY ANDREW ALLEN

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(1) COW HIDE PURSE, Moving Spirits, Manistee, 231.299.3005, FB, $199

(4) SUSHI GO! CARD GAME, Happy Owl Bookshop, Manistee, 231.887.4411, happyowlbookshop.com, $13.99

(2) RED DANGLE EARRINGS, Moving Spirits, Manistee, 231.299.3005, FB, $10

(5) BEACH GLASS CHRISTMAS TREE, Swankyz, Manistee, 231.887.4187 swankyz.com, $49.99

(3) DUTCH OVEN WITH BUILT-IN THERMOMETER, The Ideal Kitchen, Manistee, 231.398.9895, theidealkitchen.com, $299.90

(6) NORTH CHANNEL BREWING GROWLER & LOGO STICKER, North Channel Brewing, Manistee, 231.299.1020, northchannelbrewing.com, growler $8; sticker $4

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(7) HANDMADE LEATHER APRON, The Ideal Kitchen, Manistee, 231.398.9895, theidealkitchen.com, $149.99

Find more gift ideas, seasonal crafts and recipes at MyNorth.com/holidays

HOLIDAYS

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49

AY HOME

Holiday Home Tour | Dec 1 Local residents decorate and open up their homes for the trimmed for the holidays.

I

ILLAC , M R T AVEL G

Where there's a purpose in the present

A BLE D E

TROLL PRODUCTS

C.

AIL

AV

REQUEST A NEW GUIDE! Our all new travel guide will be available December. Visit our site to request yours!

E UID

2019

C

AD

ERFA CAB E

Smoked Whitefish, Salmon, Trout, Chubs, Salmon Jerky, Whitefish Pate, and Spreads

E R!

EN D

OP

Caberfae Peaks is Open!

Hit the slopes and all 485’ of vertical drop at Caberfae Peaks! A premier ski destination.

KS PEA

SKI AT

Loose Gems • Custom Design

R TOU

HOLI D

EXPLORE WINTER!

ECE M B

111 N. Mitchell St., Cadillac (231) 468-3230

Visit our website to learn more about our area!

(231) 775-0657

CadillacMichigan.com

231.444.6460 • www.saturngems.net

LOCAL & UNIQUE GIFTS Like us on Facebook

Lightly loved clothing from brand name designers.

Women’s active wear to formal wear along with accessories.

7642 S. US 131 Cadillac, Michigan 231.779.4956 | 1.800.HOLIDAY

www.ihg.com

108 N. Mitchell Street Next to Cadillac Pharmacy | 231.775.7424

www.wexfordjewelers.com or call us at 231.775.1289

Good Morning.

MyNorth I’d Rather Be Up North coffee cups

Women’s Stylish Clothing Accessories • Gifts Home Decor • & More!

101 S. Mitchell St., Downtown Cadillac • 231.468.3241 102 S. Michigan Ave., Big Rapids • 231.629.8464

www. iloveserendipity.com 50

Traverse Magazine

.com

800-678-3416

Cadillac

Cadillac City Park sparkles with joy and merriment through the holidays, beginning with the city’s Christmas in the Park event on November 24.

Santa, nativity scenes, caroling and spectacular lights— all with beautiful Lake Cadillac in the background.

PHOTO COURTESY CADILLAC AREA VISITORS BUREAU

CELEBRATE IN

C A DILLAC

CHRISTMAS IN THE PARK & LIGHT UP DOWNTOWN CADILLAC November 24, 6 p.m. cadillac.org

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(1) MICHIGAN RINGS, Wexford Jewelers, Cadillac, 231.775.1289, wexfordjewelers.com, silver $119; copper $49; silver w/blue diamonds $459 (2) AVA’S ILLUMINATIONS CANDLE, The Ultimate Gift, Cadillac, 231.468.3230, theultimategiftstop.com, $24.98 (3) HAT & FINGERLESS GLOVE SET, Serendipity, Cadillac, 231.468.3241, iloveserendipity.com, hat $26.95; gloves $28.95

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(4) WINTER IN MICHIGAN SIGN, Serendipity, Cadillac, 231.468.3241, iloveserendipity.com, $110.95

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(7) EMINENCE ORGANIC SKIN CARE STARTER KIT, Blossom Boutique, Cadillac, 231.775.6461, FB, $78.95

(5) REINDEER BUCKET, Serendipity, Cadillac, 231.468.3241, iloveserendipity.com, $34.95 (6) THIS GRANDMA IS FABULOUS MUG, Country Cottage Decor, Cadillac, 231.779.2434, countrycottagehomedecor.com, $11.99

Find more gift ideas, seasonal crafts and recipes at MyNorth.com/holidays

HOLIDAYS

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51

ON THE BRANCH: Petoskey Stone Ornaments

by Korner Gem

SH P Mitt-chigan Oven Mitt

by Salt Labs

Michigan Campfire Apparel

by UpNorth Michigan

Pandora style beads in Leland Blue & Petoskey

by Korner Gem

Stormy Kromer Apparel

by Stormy Kromer

Beer Gear

by G3 Studios

Pure Michigan Enamel Pendant

by Outdoor Beerdsman

Ironton Cable Pearl Bracelet

by Elizabeth Blair Fine Pearls

Michigan Bucket List Tumbler

by Tandem for Two

.com LOCALLY INSPIRED

• CAREFULLY CURATED

Shop this ad at ShopMyNorth.com/Ad | 800-678-3416

GOLF SPA SHOP DINE STAY

GET UP AND GO The rhythm of falling snow and endless sparkling lights. The magic of the holidays in Northern Michigan is more than an afternoon of gift shopping or hot cocoa by the fireplace.

More than the inviting warmth of the spa or a romantic dinner for two over wine. It’s having all of those things at your fingertips. You won’t believe it if you haven’t seen it.

Get up and go at grandtraverseresort.com/holidays.

Owned and Operated by the Grand Traverse Band of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians

Dining RESTAURANT GUIDE | LOCAL FOODIE | DRINKS

The Butter that Goes with Everything | 37 Local Whiskey to Love | 39

TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

MEAT MARKETS

MAXBAUER

DAVE WEIDNER

407 SOUTH UNION STREET, TRAVERSE CITY | 231.947.7698

“Was that the best pork chop you ever ate?,” Maxbauer owner, Mark Wilson, asks a returning customer as he surveys a spotless bank of meat cases housing richly marbled Delmonico roasts, fresh spirals of Polish sausage and double-cut tomahawk pork chops bobbing in cider brine. The resident meat maven’s joie de vivre is infectious as he greets and dispenses cooking tips to a steady stream of customers filtering past vintage butcher blocks merchandised with wine features and housemade spice rubs. Since buying

the 100-year-old butcher shop in 2012, Mark and his wife, Stephanie, have more than doubled their business through relentless customer service, community engagement and a commitment to premium ethically raised meats. An addictive smokehouse program kicking out house-cured bacon, jerky and smoked sausages has scored them Traverse Magazine Red Hot Best awards galore. With winter metabolism and holiday feasts on the horizon, join us this month as we prowl the North’s best butcher shops.4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '18

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dining | meat markets

FOODIE FILE

Mark & Stephanie Wilson OWNERS | MAXBAUER

A veteran of the Maxbauer’s meat counter, Mark Wilson had his eyes on swinging the boss cleaver for years when the opportunity finally arose in 2012. Mark’s meat savvy and customer service skills matched with his wife Stephanie’s business and culinary skills has business booming. We sit down with the Wilsons to talk butcher shop basics, giving back to the community and get a prime rib primer.

What’s the first question we should ask when visiting a butcher shop?

S: Rule #1 is don’t be intimidated. Ask the butcher where their meat comes from and how it’s raised. If you’re buying ground meat, make sure it was ground after it came into the store. Look in the case. All the beef should be red inside and out, anything grey or brown means it’s old.

M: If we cut a pork chop Thursday morning, it’s going into sausage if it hasn’t sold by Friday afternoon.

What three products can we use to measure a good meat counter?

M: Porterhouse steak, beef jerky and fresh bratwurst. The steak needs to be well-marbled and precisely trimmed. The jerky should be tender and not too salty, and when eating bratwurst you’ll immediately know if the sausage was made with fresh spices or a premix.

I’m hosting a holiday dinner party, what’s on the menu?

S: Prime rib is probably the easiest holiday roast but there are a few things you’ll need: some of our roast beef rub, a remote oven thermometer and one of those 1970’s-style electric carving knives.

Run us the through the pre-oven prep... oh, and explain the electric knife.

S: Pull the roast out of your fridge at least four hours before you start cooking so it comes up to room temperature. Make sure you dry it with paper towel and then put on the rub. The salt is key to forming a great crust. The knife will get you perfect, uniform slices. Nobody wants a wedge cut.

Showstopper roast, check. What’s an easy way to up our potluck cred?

M: I got this one. Buy one of our four-pound rings of fresh polish sausage, dry it off, rub it with a little oil and put it in a shallow roasting pan with sauerkraut mounded on either side. 425 degree oven for 25-30 minutes and you’ll make a lot of friends.

Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com. Dave Weidner is a freelance photographer based in Traverse City. dweidnerphoto@gmail.com.

Indulge your carnivore cravings at these quality independent meat markets.

BURRITT’S MARKET 509 WEST FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY 231.946.3300 TOSKI SANDS MARKET 2294 M-119, PETOSKEY 231.347.1571 ANDERSON’S IGA 6545 WESTERN AVENUE, GLEN ARBOR 231.334.3149 HONOR FAMILY MARKET 10625 MAIN STREET, HONOR 989.325.3360 L&J MEAT MARKET 3901 SOUTH MOREY ROAD, LAKE CITY 231.839.2176 EBELS GENERAL STORE 420 EAST PROSPER ROAD, FALMOUTH 231.826.3333

DAVE WEIDNER

We know you sell a lot of meat but tell us about giving it away.

M: I’ve always felt called to impact hunger in our area. Since buying the store we’ve partnered with the Northwest Food Coalition.

Through our own donations and by leveraging relationships with our vendors we’ve been able to supply tens of thousands of pounds of protein to local food banks.

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restaurant guide | dining

CHARLEVOIX/ANTRIM/OTSEGO/ CRAWFORD/KALKASKA

Restaurant Guide

BLD: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner BAR: Alcohol served. $: Entrées under $10 $$: $10–20 $$$: Above $20 Water view

Cormack’s Deli Fabulous sandwiches, soups and bbq, open Mon.-Fri. 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. BL • $ 2569 CHARLEVOIX AVE.,

PETOSKEY, 231.347.7570

Duffy’s Garage and Grille Pasta, burgers, inventive pizzas. LD • BAR • $$ 317 E LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3663

new

MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0466

231.439.9250

Traverse City

Manistee

Kalkaska Grayling

Cadillac

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR •

$-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

BELLAIRE/BOYNE/WALLOON

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. LD • BAR

SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

$-$$$ 04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. D, SUN. BRUNCH • BAR • $$-

Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge— Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern—American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD •

The Paper Station Fresh, relaxed and inventive foods. BLD • $ 145 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4546

Pierson's Grille & Spirits Ribs, whitefish, pizza, burgers and other staples of life. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 130 STATE ST., HARCharcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL ST.,

PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771 Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD •

Pellston Harbor Springs Petoskey Bay Harbor

Gaylord

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY,

new Pour Public House

Mackinaw City

Bellaire Elk Rapids

Frankfort

BOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2967

Mackinac Island

Boyne City East Jordan

Ellsworth

Smokey Jose’s Water-side restaurant where BBQ and bourbon meet tacos & tequila. LD BAR $-$$ 7263 MAIN STREET

LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321

EMMET AND NORTH

Petoskey

7304 MAIN ST, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8255

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour.

Go to MyNorth.com/restaurants

Charlevoix

Huron Street Pub & Grill Classic pub food. LD BAR $-$$

$$$ 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY, 877.442.6464

Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants

Mackinaw City

BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 Moka A fireplace in, a rustic-modern patio out, plus Italian coffees, irresistible sandwiches and baked creations. BLD • $

102 SOUTH BRIDGE LANE, BELLAIRE, 231.533.6262

The Pelican’s Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads homemade desserts. D BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY,

231.582.0049

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store.

LD • BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE,

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room— fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS,

231.535.2999

Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

CHARLEVOIX/CENTRAL LAKE/ ELLSWORTH/EAST JORDAN

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and composed salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E.

231.437.3612

231.526.6201

Gaylord

PETOSKEY/HARBOR SPRINGS/ Traverse City CROSS VILLAGE/PELLSTON/ BAY HARBOR/MACKINAC ISLAND

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY,

231.753.2221

Cadillac

The Bistro Saucer-sized homemade pancakes, comfort food. BL • $ 1900 US 31., PETOSKEY, 231.347.5583 Chandler’s Art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981 City Park Grill Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101

MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900

Vernales Restaurant Chop house, sports bar and wine bar with patio dining. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3018 M119, HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4777

Villa Ristorante Italiano Authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and hand-rolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

Vintage Chophouse/Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$

INN AT BAY HARBOR RENAISSANCE LAKE MICHIGAN GOLF RESORT, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

The Cantina Authentic Mexican in Van Pelt Alley behind Bridge Street. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 VAN PELT PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. LD • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD •

BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

Kelsey B’s Lakeside Food & Spirits Dine on burgers, steaks and fish and soak up the Lake Charlevoix views.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 230 FERRY AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2960

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '18

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dining | restaurant guide

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E. JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

Scovie’s Gourmet Deli & Bake Shop Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistrostyle comfort food. LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel.

LD • BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D •

BAR • $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

ELK RAPIDS

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively sounds of Zydeco, jazz and blues. LD • BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530

LEELANAU

Siren Hall Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, fresh-off-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 151

Locally Made Artisanal Cheese

RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231. 264.6062

Mackina

bossmousecheese.com

Petoskey

Northport

Gaylord

Leland

2018/2019 Cookbook Our talented kitchen staff creates a week long menu with recipes from each cookbook.

Empire Frankfort

Suttons Bay Glen Arbor Cedar Traverse City

November 5th - 11th, 2018: BOQUERIA

by Marc Vidal & Yann de Rochefort

December 3rd - 9th, 2018: THE COMPLETE ROBUCHON

by Joel Robuchon

LEELANAU COUNTY Manistee

Cadillac

Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole.

January 7th - 13th, 2019: BANGKOK

BLD • BAR • $-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

February 4th - 10th, 2019: AMICAL ALUMNI WEEK

The Bluebird Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the offseason. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND,

by Leela Punyaratabandhu

March 4th - 10th, 2019: NOPI

by Yotam Ottolenghi & Ramael Scully

April 1st - 7th, 2019: SALUTE LOCAL WINE AND SPIRITS WEEK May 6th - 11th, 2019: STATE BIRD PROVISIONS

by Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski

231.256.9081

Boone Dock’s Shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444

Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers.

LD • BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688

Big Cat Brewing Company Great comfort food including pot roast, perch and Southern-fried chicken, but now with house-brewed beer. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 8699 S. GOOD HARBOR

TR., CEDAR, 231.228.2282

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MCFAR-

LANE, MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

Garage Bar & Grill BBQ & bar eats. LD • BAR • $-$$ 108 S

WAUKAZOO ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386. 5511

229 E. Front St., Traverse City, MI 49684 (231) 941-8888

www.amical.com

36

MyNorth.com

Joe’s Friendly Tavern Whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$ 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

local table | dining

Knot Just a Bar

Fish and burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019

BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE,

SMOKED BUTTER

231.334.3944

Leland Lodge Bogeys— BLD • BAR • $-$$ 565 PEARL ST., LELAND, 231.256.9848

Little Traverse Inn Old World gastro pub highlights the food and beer of the British Isles. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 149 E.

HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY. 231. 228.2560

BOSS MOUSE CHEESE

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR • $ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

From her storybook-farm in Kingsley, Sue Kurta, founder, owner and head cheesemaker at Boss Mouse Cheese, has helped pioneer Northern Michigan’s small but luscious artisanalcheese industry. Kurta’s cheese, handmade using milk from Traverse City’s Moomers dairy, has garnered legions of fans—fans whose need-for-cheese turned (also) to butter when she began cold-smoking creamy butter chunks in applewood smoke.

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on scratch regional cuisine. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413 N.

ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

North Country Grill & Pub (Whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) , fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR •

$$ 420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY,

231.228.6692

GRAND TRAVERSE

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

Mackinaw City

Tucker’s of Northport Bistro-style casual fine dining.

Meet. Dine. Bowl. LD • BAR • $-$$ 116 WAUKAZOO, NORTH-

PORT, 231.386.1061

Petoskey

Gaylord Old Mission

Frankfort

Manistee

Acme Traverse City Interlochen

What should you do with this dreamy and totally Northern Michigan delicacy? Anything your heart desires. Here are some ways to use it that will help stoke your cravings.

Cadillac

OLD MISSION PENINSULA

Boathouse Restaurant Casually elegant spot with great steaks, seafood, large local wine selection. Sunday brunch. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 14039 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4030

» Slather on good bread

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. LD • BAR • $$

» Spread on corn on the cob

13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

» Drizzle on squash » Sauté mushrooms

TRAVERSE CITY—DOWNTOWN

» Scramble eggs

Alliance James Beard-nominee Pete Peterson teams with up-and-coming chef James Bloomfield at this Warehouse District bistro. LD • BAR • $-$$ 144 HALL ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

» Melt on popcorn » Caramelize onions

231.642.5545

» Top a baked potato

Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

» Baste a butter burger or steak

231.941.8888

» Fry hashbrowns

Bistro Fou Fou Chef Guillaume Hazaël-Massieux also of La Bécasse in Maple City brings his country French cooking downtown. LD • $$-$$$ 118 CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.6583 Blue Heron 2 Local ingredients used in homemade bread and soup and other scratch dishes like roasted vegetable breakfast bowl. BL • $ 408 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

DAVE WEIDNER

Bay Bread Company Artisan breads, sandwiches, salads, soups. BLD • $ 601 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.8022 Boss Mouse Smoked Butter also comes vegan and salt-free.

Find out where to purchase it, including how to order it online at bossmousecheese.com. —E.E.

231.778.2583

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '18

37

dining | restaurant guide

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with fromscratch farmer food. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST

Bubba’s Burgers, chimis, salads, tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E.

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. D • BAR • $$$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME,

FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

231.534.6000

The Cooks’ House Sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-$$$ 115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

McGee’s No. 72 Gourmet burgers, fries, pizza and other sophisticated bar food. D • BAR • $$ 4341 M72 E., TRAVERSE

CITY, 922.9515

231.946.8700

CITY, 231.421.8800

Firefly Sushi, steaks and burgers. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST.,

Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

The Franklin Flatbread, salads, lamb and beef burgers, bistro dinners. LD • BAR • $-$$ 160 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2727

Frenchies Famous Three tables and carryout, offers superb hot sandwiches and espresso drinks. BL • $ 619 RANDOLPH ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1228

Georgina’s Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 236 E. FRONT

STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1555

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, soups, salads and quiche. BL • $ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437

Harvest Hip Asian and Latin influenced menu. LD • BAR • $ 127 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.486.6037

Little Bohemia Famous Olive Burger featured on Food Network. Full menu. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 540 W. FRONT ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.6925

Mackinaw Brewing Co. House-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty char-burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR •

$$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.943.2793

Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steak and burger house. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,

231.534.8888

Thai Café Eat in or take out authentic Thai cuisine in a cafe atmosphere. LD • $-$$ 1219 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, The Soup Cup, a MicroSouperie Homemade soups, grilled cheese, Belgian fries. L • $ 718 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.7687

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY,

Cadillac

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ ONEKAMA/BEULAH

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails). BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114

Lucky Dog Bar & Grill Fire-grilled brats, tacos, burgers, smoked wings, craft beer, wine, liquor. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S.

Yellow Dog Café Fabulous coffee, sandwiches, baked goods. LD $ 4850 MAIN ST, ONEKAMA, 231.508.5008

ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8002

FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted woodfired flatbreads and flavorful house brews. LD • BAR • $-$$

642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

new Raduno Neighborhood deli featuring homemade pasta,

sausages, charcuterie and salads. LD • $-$$ 545 E EIGHTH ST.,

Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad.

LD • BAR • $$ 13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips A new location for ultrafresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

• $$-$$ $ 120 S. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR •

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30,

$$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960

231.943.2500

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4648

The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons.

Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$

MyNorth.com

Onekama Manistee

Common Good Bakery Handmade pastries, bread, croissants, breakfasts, soups, sandwiches.. BL • $ 537 W 14TH new

ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

38

Traverse City

Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST

WEST GRANDVIEW PARKWAY, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0500

Frankfort Beulah Benzonia

BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499

CROSSINGS BLVD, GRAWN, 231.944.1355

Warehouse Kitchen & Cork Seasonally inspired farmto-fork restaurant inside Hotel Indigo. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 263

Gaylord

Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872

237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9645

CITY, 231.929.0900

Petoskey

231.946.3991

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY,

Sorellina Authentic Italian from Antipasta to pasta. D • BAR

Mackinaw City

231.929.1303

Sauce at Incredible Mo’s Artisan pizza, pasta, salad in a kid-friendly atmosphere. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1355 SILVER LAKE

CITY, 231.933.8700

CITY, 231.943.2922

231.642.5020

Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD • $-$$$

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh-sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT

new West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted BENZIE / MANISTEE / WEXFORD chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

TRAVERSE CITY 231.421.118

231.941.7632

BLD • BAR • $-$$ 12930 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7795

Smoke and Porter Public House A new American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY,

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.941.7325

Tuscan Bistro Great patio, marina delivery and Mickey Cannon’s fresh bistro eats with Cajun and Italian influences.

717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY,

231.929.8989

Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants!

Go to MyNorth.com/restaurants

whiskey | drinks

GOOD SPIRITS

BY TIM TEBEAU

The North is filthy with craft distillers kicking out some of the best brown liquor north of Kentucky.

Stash a few of these.

TRAVERSE CITY WHISKEY CO. AMERICAN CHERRY EDITION MAMMOTH DISTILLING WOOLY BOURBON

DISTILLER FILE

Chris Fredrickson CO-OWNER | TRAVERSE CITY WHISKEY COMPANY, 231.922.8292

Upon discovering a set of his great-grandfather’s distilling patents at the family farm, a whiskey wormhole opened up for Traverse City native, Chris Fredrickson that led to the founding of the Traverse City Whiskey Company in 2012 and their downtown distillery two years later. We sit down with Chris to talk whiskey mechanics and get an Ol’ Fashioned recipe to ward off the first freeze.

GRAND TRAVERSE DISTILLERY OLE GEORGE STRAIGHT RYE WHISKEY IRON FISH DISTILLERY BOURBON WHISKEY FINISHED IN MAPLE SYRUP BARRELS CIVILIZED SPIRITS WHISKEY ETHANOLOGY FRUMENTUM WHITE WHISKEY NORTHERN LATITUDES DISTILLERY LATITUDES STRAIGHT BOURBON WHISKEY

In a world flush with whiskey, how does Traverse City Whiskey Company stand apart?

With each whiskey we try to find a differentiator that ties it to the area and reflects our values and heritage. Since cherry farming is a true marker of Traverse City, our American Cherry Edition is infused with Northern Michigan cherries. We’re also producing limited-edition Michigan apple and maple syrup-infused whiskeys.

How does whiskey infusion work?

For the fruit whiskeys, we use our Traverse City Straight Bourbon as the base whiskey and each barrel, after it's completed aging, is macerated with 10 pounds of local fruit for 10 days so the whiskey takes on the subtle essence of cherry or apple.

What role do the barrels themselves play?

In our world the water, and even more so the wood, are the key components to great whiskey. We work with generational coopers in Kentucky and Tennessee to get top-quality American oak with a lighter char to help the whiskey mature with more complexity and elegance.

DAVE WEIDNER

Let’s start drinking. What kind of whiskey glass should we have behind the bar?

You need two, actually. The first is an 8-10 ounce tumbler or “Old Fashioned” glass for making whiskey cocktails or sipping it on the rocks. The second is a Glenacairn glass that focuses the whiskey’s aromas when drinking it neat.

Straight sippin’ aside, what’s the best way to drink whiskey this November?

My favorite is our Stillhouse recipe for an Ol’ Fashioned. You can stop by and drink one at our happy hour sessions Monday through Thursday from 3-7 p.m. or make it at home.

Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com.

Dave Weidner is a freelance photographer based in Traverse City. dweidnerphoto@gmail.com.

TRAVERSE CITY WHISKEY COMPANY OL’ FASHIONED INGREDIENTS 1 orange wedge K ounce simple syrup 4 dashes Angostura bitters 2 ounces Traverse City Whiskey Company American Cherry Edition large ice cubes 1 Traverse City Whiskey Company Premium Cocktail Cherry

METHOD In a rocks glass muddle the orange wedge, bitters and simple syrup.

Add the whiskey and ice cubes, stir to combine and garnish with the cocktail cherry.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | NOV '18

39

steelhead fishing | outdoors

BRAVE THE BOARDMAN Enjoy hooking into some winter steelhead on a river all to yourself.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ANDREW VANDRIE

Gather up the gumption and your cold-weather gear and head to downtown TC for steelhead fishing on river frontage devoid of the elbow-to-elbow crowds of spring run. The steelhead can be notoriously finicky, even more so come wintertime. Still, the lack of competition and the potential for a chrome chase right downtown is ample enticement. As the Boardman succumbs to the cold, seek out the slow, wide pools for potential strikes. Facing falling water and air temperatures, steelhead will slink back into deeper holds. Watch the forecast and target relative warm-ups following a stretch of cold weather to ambush more active steelhead cruising toward traditional river lies. Slow water means small presentation. Stick to miniscule jigs tipped with waxworms

such as size 10 Rat Finkees or Jammin Jigs (see sidebar). Come equipped with a plethora of colors, with chartreuse, orange and pink the go-to staples. In addition to jigs, dime-sized spawn bags are a good standby.

Wade into the river with a full 9 to 11 ft. medium-action steelhead rod. A reel spooled with 8 lbs. mono joined by a barrel swivel to a 6 lbs. fluorocarbon leader will offer enough strength without spooking wary steelies. Comb the river with a float set-up. Secure an adjustable balsa float (such as a Sheffield or Blackbird floats) and a 1/8 egg sinker to the mono above the swivel. Tie on a 3-4 ft. section of flouro leader and knot on your jig of choice at the end. The adjustable float will enable you to set the jig depth to get right into the snout

of deep-holding steelhead. Hold the rod at a 45° angle to the river surface and follow the drift with the rod tip. Once the float submarines, set the hook and hang on! Steelhead are powerful and will perform impressive aerial displays and line-zinging runs.

Maintain good tension, adjust drag, and reel hand-over-fist when they come back upriver. The objective is to tire them out rather than muscle them to hand. Once you’ve wrestled the steelhead to the net, keep it in the water as much as possible. Unhook with care, let it recover, and watch as it slinks back into a wintery hold.

Andrew VanDrie writes from Traverse City. vandrian@umich.edu.

CHASING CHROME...

Steelhead fishing calls for the ability to adjust and improvise—equip yourself with the Steelhead Super Tube Kit from Jammin Jigs (jamminjigs.com).

Consisting of 24 jigs in an array of colors and patterns, this is a good starter kit with enough variety to seduce even the most tight-lipped steelhead.

40

MyNorth.com

LAUGHING WHITEFISH RIVER

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NEAR MARQUETTE, MI

87.66° W

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