Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine December 2018

ROASTED CHESTNUTS IN MANISTEE • HOMETOWN BREADMAKERS • EARLY DAYS AT NUB'S NOB

INSIDE: NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE FOLLOWING PAGE 40

HOLIDAYS UP NORTH

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546 M-72 South East Kalkaska • 231.258.2146

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Chandler Street in Leland Live in historic downtown Leland! Customize this J. Peterson

new build to your taste. You’ll love the open fl oor plan, fi replace, half bath, and gorgeous kitchen with island and premium fi nishes. Slider opens to private fi nished patio for entertaining. Main fl oor master has luxurious, spacious en-suite. 2 bedrooms and full bath on the upper level and framed ready to fi nish lower level. J. Peterson is known for blending contemporary and traditional elements together in perfect harmony. Detached 2-car garage and landscaped yard complete this wonderful offering. Situated close enough to walk/bike to downtown shops, restaurants and beaches but far enough away from the hustle and bustle of Main Street. Come enjoy life in beautiful Leland! Need more space? The lower level can be finished with 1 additional bedroom, family room and bath making this a 4 bedroom/3.5 bath home for an additional charge. $599,000 MLS#1847197

797 N Dalton Shores

Here’s your chance to own 116’ of some of the best sandy waterfront on North Lake Leelanau and build a J Peterson Home custom designed by J Visser for this parcel. This is the last lot available in this private neighborhood. Gorgeous 1 acre parcel offers seclusion down a private road just off of M-204 (E Duck Lake Rd) yet is close to downtown Lake Leelanau and historic Leland. The property has some of the finest hard sand bottom frontage. Enjoy world-class lake views from every room. You’ll love the open concept living with beautiful kitchen and dining, fireplace, mud room, laundry and half bath. Main floor master has a luxury en-suite. Just off the kitchen you will relax by the lake on the large patio. Upstairs offers a loft with vaulted ceilings, 2 bedrooms, full bath plus a large bonus/bunk room (possible 4th bedroom) over the 2 stall attached garage. Professionally designed amenities include Pella windows, Kohler fixtures, solid surface countertops and all the quality you expect from a J. Peterson home. Exterior is maintenance-free with cement lap board siding, in-ground sprinklers, landscaping and more! Construction has begun, it’s time to customize this home with your desired finishes. $1,300,000. MLS#1846412.

joel@joelpetersonhomes.com | 654 Croswell, East Grand Rapids | 616.940.9288 516 E. Front St., Traverse City | 231.994.2168

Contents

Discover more about Up North, people, places, food and events.

december | features

22 | SMALL TOWN, BIG HOLIDAY SPIRIT Twinkly storefronts, brisk lake air, sweet eats and kicked-back fun wait for you in Glen Arbor.

28 | CELEBRATE LIKE A LUMBERJACK So, what was the Yuletide like deep in the turn-of-the-century forest?

Pull up a stump...PLUS: our picks to outfit a modern-day Lumberjack (or Lumberjill) this winter.

34 | A SNOW DAY AT SWEETWATER Welcome friends with a farm-to-door wreath. Kalin Sheick of Sweetwater Floral shows you how.

38 | THE GIFT OF BAKING It’s an homage to our favorite bakers, in the nick of time for big holiday breakfasts.

PLUS | NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE (FOLLOWING PAGE 40)

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’18

3

contents | departments

Consign.

Donate.

Regift.

51

zanyconsignment.com

9 | EDITOR’S NOTE 11 | UP NORTH Chestnuts roasting in Manistee; stocking stuffing in Petoskey.

15 | DECEMBER EVENTS Good cheer all the way to the New Year.

18 | THIS IS MY NORTH

51 | DRINKS Short days call for dark beers.

55 | OUTDOORS Point those cross-country skis to Petoskey Brewing Co. for a well-earned pint. Hat hair allowed.

56 | LOVE OF THE LAND A winter waterfall.

Hang out with us online, on social and at MyNorth Tickets.

ON THE COVER

19 | TRAVEL

PHOTO BY COURTNEY KENT

Merry making at Sweetwater Lavender Farm, Petoskey.

Stay up for the ball drop in a sweet small town.

21 | UP IN MICHIGAN A coming-of-age tale on the ski hills of Nub’s Nob.

facebook.com/mynorthmedia

41 | DINING

instagram.com/mynorthmedia

The North’s best beer halls.

49 | LOCAL TABLE Bourbon-laced fruitcakes shipped from the tip of the Keweenaw.

4

MyNorth.com

FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA

pinterest.com/mynorthmedia twitter.com/mynorth

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/ EDITOR IN CHIEF EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR WEB EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Deborah Wyatt Fellows Emily Tyra Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Elizabeth Aseritis, Caroline Dahlquist Lou Blouin, Kim Schneider, Tim Tebeau, Andrew VanDrie Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Rachel Watson

JUNIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Breanne Kerner

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Julie Parker

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Jim Driver Ann Gatrell Jill Hayes Meg Lau Chris Hunt Cyndi Ludka Drew Warner

MARKETING DIRECTOR

Rachel North

DIRECTOR OF AUDIENCE ENGAGEMENT AND BRAND STRATEGY MYNORTH TICKETS MANAGER OFFICE MANAGER CONTROLLER

Joe Beyer

THE GIFT THAT PROMISES A YEAR FILLED WITH UNFORGETTABLE MOMENTS...

Hannah Malinowski Libby Stallman Chris Ruszel

THE LEXUS

DECEMBER TO REMEMBER SALES EVENT

Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 Subscriber Services Visit MyNorth.com/sub to change your address or to review your account.

Please e-mail other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800.785.8632 between 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. EST. Reprints Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly

by Prism Publications Inc., 125 Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684.

Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $27.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2018, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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DEC ’18

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MyNorth.com

10/9/18 3:49 PM

editor’s note

IN PRAISE OF WINTER TEXT BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS | PHOTO BY ANGELA BROWN

I

t happens on cue as the days shorten and frost greets us in the mornings: Some people start groaning about winter, making jokes about escape, already hunching shoulders as if to ward off the cold that is upon us. And then there’s me. The annoying one in the group who steps up in praise of winter and inevitably, happily a few like minds chime in. Some people truly don’t like winter; others just enjoy the low hum of winter woes and I think still others just haven’t figured out how magical and powerful the season is.

It’s easier to love winter during this time of year when holiday lights make Northern Michigan’s small towns glimmer like the best Hallmark movie set. It’s easier to deal with the darkened days when streets and shops literally glow and the sidewalks are filled into the evening with holiday shoppers looking for those handpicked items simply not found in a big box and dropping coins in the buckets of local high school kids playing carols wearing lopsided Santa hats. Downtown tree lightings, Santa ushered in by volunteer firefighters, community buildings buzzing with local artists…truly, it’s impossible not to love Northern Michigan in winter at the holidays.

If that is Northern Michigan’s holiday palette, the palette that follows is not as easily defined and yet no less emotive.

Images and emotions of winter are defined, in part, not by their consistency but by their wild fluctuation.

Jet-black branches of trees, naked and exposed, become more art than function. A cornflower blue sky is a reason for conversation. The creaking of a hardwood, a slight exhale, the hollow echo of a whoop from the one who has skied ahead are often the only sounds that define an afternoon.

There are smiles no one sees.

Spending any real time in Northern Michigan in the winter means making peace with the unknown. Embracing both the fury and the hush. There’s an understanding the life runs the gamut: Awe, adventure, introspection, a sense of warmth. Welcoming friends and family in out of the darkened winter night can find us the most grateful and content, while the next day winter can be a more personal

journey. And the winter wind howling against our windows reminds us that there are many kinds of security in life, some simpler to achieve than others; a soft down comforter, faces still slightly wind burned, a book that never seems to leave its place by the fire, a woodpile well covered.

We choose being here in the winter knowing that life in this season is different. And we thrive when we remember to let that be true. It’s about having the luxury of a moonlight walk or ski when the full moon happens to fall on a Tuesday.

Carving the first slow S-curves into the powdered slopes of a local ski resort on a Wednesday evening. Lingering with a friend a bit longer because winter gives us permission to not rush on to the next thing. Stomping the snow off boots just as you open the door to a coffeehouse and are met with that rush of pure, aromatic warmth. Offering an interested customer a cup of cider and being pleasantly surprised when the bell over the door interrupts your conversation. Coming upon a snowy owl 50 yards into the woods when you surely ought to be getting dinner started. Walking back from the mailbox at night, your home aglow, the air so clear and cold it makes you catch your breath, a small stream of chimney smoke dancing against a star-laden sky.

Winter slows life down for us. And when we are at our best, we adjust our expectations. We strive for true balance between what we ask this place to be and what it so easily is. It is achingly beautiful. It is visceral. It is as honest as we let it be. It is so much fun. It is filled creative spirit that thrives when we honor the core of what this place is about.

And if we let it, life in Northern Michigan in the winter always leads us quietly back to those things we want to value most. Welcome winter.

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth. debwf@traversemagazine.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’18

9

Celebrating 40 Years

MIX OR MATCH HAPPY PLACE GLASSWARE 4 FOR $25 OR $7.99 EACH 231.271.6895 • FrontPorchSuttonsBay.com Downtown Suttons Bay • Open Daily

10

MyNorth.com

Up North

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

A NORTHERN NEIGHBOR

The Sleighbell of the Ball The Manistee Old Christmas Weekend, best known for its locally famed Sleighbell Parade, turns 30 this year. For 29 of those, local architect Kendra Thompson has been buying, roasting and gifting chestnuts with friends at four grilling stations along the parade route while decked out in a period-perfect cape and hat. Most paradegoers have tasted the treat but not all know the origins of the custom—and event itself. But first, the chestnuts...

Where do you get them?

We initially got them through the local grocery store’s produce wholesaler—an Italian chestnut.

Later a gentleman from Grant, Michigan, contacted me about the chestnuts he was growing. We’ve purchased from him ever since.

They’re a little smaller and much sweeter.

How does the cooking process work?

Cooking time is really dependent on how hot the charcoal is. When we first get started on parade day, it takes a little longer, and people get a little anxious. If they bear with us, the chestnuts will get roasted. When the coals are going really well, it only takes about five minutes. The shell will split open slightly, and the ones really done will pop.

DAVE WEIDNER

Where'd the idea get its start?

A lot of towns have Christmas parades, but none have a Christmas parade like Manistee’s Sleighbell. The whole concept is that it’s done in a historic fashion, meaning there are no motorized vehicles, not a bunch of bells and whistles. There are horses and carriages and caroling groups folks dressed up in a way that depicts our Victorian heritage, our historic heritage. In England and across Europe during the cooler weather, there’ll be vendors selling chestnuts— that's how the chestnuts plugged in. But we'll always give the chestnuts for free. We’re not looking to make money. We’re looking to spread cheer. 4 Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’18

11

up north | what's up

Welcome Home to Chelsea Park II

Only 3 units left!

Discover This Hidden Treasure Privacy and location are key when it comes to the tranquil setting of Chelsea Park II. Adjacent to Miller Creek Nature Reserve and only minutes from Downtown Traverse City and Munson Hospital. These 2BR/2BA condominiums offer main floor living with a full basement (plumbed for 3rd bath and egress windows for two additional bedrooms), natural gas fireplace, and oversized two-car garage.

Quality construction with updated amenities such as heated tile floors in the master bath and quartz counter-tops throughout and all your appliances are included! Exterior maintenance, lawn care, and snow removal are included in your low monthly association dues.

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What kind of feedback do you get from people who stop for a taste?

We have the folks who come back year after year who can’t wait to get chestnuts.

It’s probably the only time all year they eat them, but they look forward to it. We have others who have never tasted one before, and it’s interesting to watch the reaction on their face. They either love it—or don't love it. Then there are a fair number of people who aren’t daring enough to even try one.

They just enjoy having hot chestnuts in their pocket to keep them warm. And that’s great.

I love the way merchants, parade participants and even visitors dress. How do they know what's period appropriate?

We have how-to classes and fashion shows on different styles of attire from the 1870s, 1880s and 1890s, all the way from what a lumberjack would wear to what the wealthy ladies would. Then we would have hands-on sessions and make Victorian hats or wraps.

We also showed how to take what you have in your closet now and with a few extra accessories, boom, have something reflective of Victorian attire.

What will you be wearing on parade day?

I wear an old black velvet and mink-collared cape from the museum, and I have a hat with peacock feathers in it and a big hoop skirt.

For roasting chestnuts, it’s probably not quite appropriate, but my husband does a lot of the work, and he dresses in black and red plaid wool bibs and wool hat and so forth.

CHELSEA PARK II TRAVERSE CITY

12

MyNorth.com

Butch Broad Developer 231-218-4965

Jerri Kindlinger Realtor/Manager 231-645-5020

info@chelseaparktc.com www.chelseaparktc.com

Does just dressing like that transport you to another era?

I do feel transported. We’re kind of living, breathing history, at least for a few hours.

—Kim Schneider

Find Kendra and the rest of the revelers downtown Manistee, December 6th through 9th. manisteesleighbellparade.com

what's up | up north

CLASSIC UP NORTH

Grandpa Shorter’s A family—and holiday—legacy shines bright at this 72-year-old Petoskey shop.

MOCCASINS: DAVE WEIDNER // HISTORICS: COURTESY GR ANDPA SHORTER'S

A PETOSKEY ICON SINCE 1946

As the first flurries fly, you’ll find Jennifer Shorter bustling amid the shelves or cheerfully beautifying boxes and bags at Grandpa Shorter’s Gifts in Petoskey.

The third-generation proprietor has been walking over the same hardwood floors since she was a little girl helping her grandparents, Carl and Ruth, who opened the business in 1946.

Prior to the 1980s, it was called Shorter’s Indian Craft Shop. The store’s namesake sold totem poles, birch bark canoes and other Native American goods from what was then a modest 8-by-24-foot space.

Shorter’s very first account as a storeowner was none other than the famed Minnetonka Moccasins.

Both brands have grown together over the past seven decades, and you’ll still find significant floor space devoted to the carefully crafted footwear today.

Though years have passed and shelves are stocked with modern, trendy goods month after month, the selection of Minnetonkas and deer skin gloves evoke a lifetime of family history. Jennifer welcomes shoppers with both brimming pride and neighborly warmth.

Patrons pass down loyalty from generation to generation. “I love hearing from customers that they remember when they couldn’t see over the counter as little kids, and now they are bringing their grandchildren,” says Jennifer.

The spirit of the season thrives here: shimmering lights are hung and large velvet bows pose against the white of the building. December brings window displays that are nothing short of grandiose, a tradition Jennifer carries from her mother, Mari. “We have always wanted them to be in some small way like windows in the big cities at the holidays: fanciful and full of merriment.”—Kaitlin Dudlets Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’18

13

Happy Holidays! bac-tc.com

I love my patients’ courage.

“My patients face the ultimate adversity, and yet they find ways to get up every day and live their lives and go to work and take care of their kids and fight for their life.

I aspire to be a little bit like them every single day.”

– Yelena Kier, DO | Medical Oncologist

Our regional cancer team works together to detect, diagnose and fight cancer. Wherever you live in northern Michigan, you have access to Munson Healthcare’s system of expert, coordinated cancer care.

Together, we’ll make a plan. Together, we’ll get through this.

231-392-8400 | munsonhealthcare.org/cancer Cadillac | Charlevoix | Gaylord | Grayling | Manistee | Traverse City

14

MyNorth.com

calendar | events

December

TIX Look for this symbol in our Events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

EDITED BY LIBBY STALLMAN

CHARLEVOIX BRIDGE DROP visitcharlevoix.com/BridgeDrop

SAT

1

LUDINGTON BALL DROP downtownludington.org/nye

Music | Voice finalist and

Leelanau County resident Joshua Davis shares heartfelt stories of family, friends and traveling on the road along with original and cover songs. Old Art Building, Leland. MyNorthTickets.com

SUN

2

HANUKKAH BEGINS

SUN

Music | Take a memorable glimpse into the enchanting spirit of Christmas, as the finest traditional artists from Ireland bring you on a fun-filled start to the holiday season with Irish Christmas in America at The Dennos Museum Center, Traverse City. MyNorthTickets.com

2

THU

ANGELA BROWN

6

Holiday | Step back in

time at the Victorian Sleighbell Parade & Old Christmas Weekend in Manistee, complete with a beautiful display of luminaria, caroling, and the lighting of the tree. manisteesleighbellparade.com

TRAVERSE CITY BALL DROP traversecity.com

FRI

7

Theater | Catch a performance of The Nutcracker Ballet at the Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts on Dec. 7 and 8, or at Benzie Central Auditorium on Dec. 8.

MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

Theater | Enjoy A Christmas

8

MON

10 FRI

14

Carol, a festive tale of redemption and compassion, at the Old Town Playhouse in Traverse City.

MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

And More | Santa Claus is

FRI

Holiday | Celebrate the Winter

15 21

And More | Soup and Bread

at The Little Fleet is always the 2nd Monday of the month.

Enjoy soup while supporting a local organization; this month’s proceeds will go to Northwest Michigan Ballet, Traverse City. thelittlefleet.com

Sports | Six guests ski or

board for the price of one at Boyne Mountain today! boynemountain.com

FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS

MARQUETTE downtownmarquette.org

coming … to breakfast! The Grand Traverse Resort & Spa is serving a family friendly buffet and Jolly Ol' Saint Nick is on hand for photos and to visit with children.

MyNorthTickets.com

Solstice with sweets and hot cocoa, a movie, silent auction, and musical performances by Samuel Seth Bernard, Mark Lavengood, Robin Lee Berry, Katie Lee & Friends. Crooked Tree Arts Center, Petoskey. blissfest.org

TUE

25 SAT

29 MON

31

MERRY CHRISTMAS

Sports | Let the dogsled Team

Evergreen show you what they’re made of as they tote you along the golf course at Treetops Resort, Gaylord. treetops.com

Holiday | Ring in the New

Year by traveling back in time for a Prohibition-Era, Roaring 20’s-style celebration at the 123 Speakeasy in Traverse City.

MyNorthTickets.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’18

15

130 HALL STREET TRAVERSE CITY 231-252-4132

Graham

REAL ESTATE

#1 in Residential Sales & Listings in the Harbor Springs Area 231.526.6251 • grahamre.com • 198 E. Main Street, Harbor Springs, MI 49740

3081 Forrest Avenue • Harbor Springs

16

275 E. Bay Street • Harbor Springs

4,155 SQ. FT. • 4 BEDROOMS • 4.5 BATHS

4,899 SQ. FT. • 6 BEDROOMS • 6 BATHS

Enjoy the most beautiful sandy beach on Little Traverse Bay from this newly built waterfront home. Sunset views are breathtaking from the large covered lakeside porch and second-floor sunset balcony. Luxurious features include custom tile, hardwood floors, exquisite trim, paneling and built-ins, 2 fireplaces, and high-end appliances and fixtures. Admire Lake Michigan year-round with efficient the Smart Home technology. Listed at $3,850,000.

Brand new “urban cottage” with an extraordinary downtown location and water views! Over 6,700 square feet of indoor/outdoor living space including 2 covered porches, 2 patios and a roof-top deck. Up to 6 bedrooms, 6 baths, chef’s kitchen with Cornue Fe’ and Subzero appliances, and dual refrigeration/dishwashers.

Meticulously built by The Cottage Company with fresh coastal designs by Cottage Company Interiors. Listed at $4,500,000.

Listed by Sam DeCamp & Penny McCready sam@grahamre.com • 231.526.6251

Listed by Andrew Bowman abowman@grahamre.com • 231.526.6251

MyNorth.com

december | events

Petoskey Holiday Open House: 7

Save yourself a trip. Call ahead to verify all times and dates. Find more events at MyNorth.com

Art

Please find more Art at MyNorth.com

Big Group/Small Works: 1-28

Selected works that are the perfect size and affordability for gift giving. A wide range of styles and subject matter will be represented. Higher Art Gallery, Traverse City.

231.252.4616. higherartgallery.com

Dance

Please find more Dance at MyNorth.com.

Swan Lake at Interlochen Arts Academy: 6-8

Interlochen presents Tchaikovsky's brilliant and beautiful ballet Swan Lake as this year's holiday classic. This beloved tale of a princess turned into a swan by an evil sorcerer's curse is a time-honored ballet classic, and an experience for the whole family. Corson Auditorium. interlochen.org

Visit downtown Petoskey for the region’s premier holiday season event! Santa Claus makes an appearance to light the giant Christmas tree in Pennsylvania Park and the streets close down while the merchants open their doors to offer warm holiday greetings and hospitality. Enjoy merry entertainment by carolers, local nonprofits and the AMAZING Petoskey High School Steel Drum Band!

231.348.0388, petoskeydowntown.com

Please find more Fairs, Festivals & Holidays at MyNorth.com.

9th Annual Light Up the Night in Bellaire: 1

Celebrate the joys of the Christmas season. Activities include everything from a free kid’s movie and ornament making to the annual soup cook-off with 10+ participating restaurants and a visit with Santa after the “Parade of Lights.” Also, tree lighting, caroling and a live nativity; this is truly a family friendly event! bellairechamber.org Holiday Festival in the Village of Suttons Bay: 1-2

A weekend of fun including a family movie, Santa’s arrival by fire truck at 5pm with caroling on Sat. followed by Antlers & Elves at Brain Storm! and Enerdyne from noon to 3pm on Sun. Cookie exchange and Community Choral concert at the Congregational Church, 3pm. 231.271.5077, suttonsbayarea.com

Film

Please find more Film at MyNorth.com.

The Bay Film Series Presents Free Solo: 2-4

National Geographic Documentary Film’s FREE SOLO, a stunning, intimate and unflinching portrait of the free soloist climber Alex Honnold, as he prepares to achieve his lifelong dream: climbing the face of the world’s most famous rock ... the 3,000-foot El Capitan in Yosemite National Park ... without a rope. Celebrated as one of the greatest athletic feats of any kind, Honnold’s climb set the ultimate standard: perfection or death. One film per month—September thru April. Regular admission price for non-subscribers.

Suttons Bay, 231.271.5800, thebaytheatre.com

Kids

Downtown Traverse City Holiday Events, Shopping: 1-2, 13, 20

Walking in a Winter Wonderland Dec. 1-2: It’s a little bit window decorating contest, a little bit scavenger hunt, and a whole lot of fun! Participants get to vote for their favorite store’s window display. Find all of this year’s special hidden objects in the store windows and you can win a $250 Downtown Gift Certificate! Ballots at participating businesses. Cocoa Crawl Dec. 2: Spend the day shopping locally for the holidays and sipping on hot cocoa at various locations. Participants will vote for their favorite. Holiday open house with Sales & Specials at downtown stores. Dec. 13: Ladies’ Night; Dec. 20: Men’s Night; both events 5-9pm.

231.922.2050, downtowntc.com

Nature

Please find Nature at MyNorth.com.

What has sharp pointed needles and grows at Grass River? Discover the differences between pines, spruces, and firs at Grass River. Learn ID techniques and then take a short naturalist-led hike to test your skills. This 1.5-hour program is $5 per person. Bellaire, grassriver.org

Sports

Please find Sports at MyNorth.com.

Jingle Bell 5K: 16

The Jingle Bell Run tours favorite neighborhood streets bordering downtown Traverse City that are decked out in holiday lights and decorations. The event, highlighted by runners of all ages and abilities donned in festive holiday costumes, is a non-timed 3-mile run or walk, followed by holiday cookies and hot chocolate. tctrackclub.com

Please find more Kids at MyNorth.com.

Enjoy tea service at Stafford’s Perry Hotel with principal performers of Crooked Tree Arts Center School of Ballet including: Clara, the Nutcracker, the Snow Queen, the Dew Drop Fairy, Mirliton, and, of course, the Sugar Plum Fairy! Enjoy traditional tea or lemonade, sweet and savory treats and tea sandwiches. 1 or 3pm. 231.347.4337, crookedtree.org

Literary

Please find more Literary at MyNorth.com.

Theater

Please find Theater at MyNorth.com.

A Woman Called Truth: 14-16

Sojourner Truth was a remarkable woman who escaped slavery to become a popular and respected advocate for abolition and women’s rights. By combining spirituals and folk songs of the time with Truth’s own words, this play shows her uncommon clear-sightedness, courage, and wit as she fought injustice wherever she found it.

Not recommended for very young children. OTP Studio Theatre @ the Depot. MyNorthTickets.com

Events at Horizon Books: 1-28

Dec. 1: Author signing by Donald Totten and book launch

by Anne-Marie Oomen. Dec. 8: Author signing & talk with Tom Carr. Dec. 15: Author and illustrator signing with Beverly J. Porter and Jan Bower. Author signing by Heather Shumaker. Dec. 16 & 17: Author signing by Karl Manke. Dec. 22: Author signing by Michelle White. Dec. 28: Live Music with the Jim Crockett Trio. Story hour for little ones every Friday at 10am. Traverse City. horizonbooks.com

Train Wonderland: 1-2

Visit Castle Farms for holiday fun with your entire family. Kids of all ages will love having unlimited access to the extravaganza of model and interactive train displays, including the ever-popular Polar Express and riding-trains for children. Holiday interactive games, crafts, snacks, and hot cocoa are included. visitcharlevoix.com

The Glen Arbor Players ring in the holidays with The Bells of Saint Mary’s,” a Christmas classic. Glen Lake Community Reformed Church. 231.334.6112, glenarborart.org

Tree Identification at Grass River: 15

Sugar Plum Fairy Tea: 1

Fairs, Festivals & Holidays

The Bells of St. Mary’s: 14-15

Music

Please find more Music at MyNorth.com.

The Blow at The Little Fleet: 3

The Little Fleet is happy to host Melissa Dyne and Khaela Maricich of New York City-based The Blow, an experimental pop music duo. Hear cuts from their new album, “Brand New Abyss.” Doors open at 7pm. $12 general admission.

MyNorthTickets.com

And More

Please find And More at MyNorth.com.

Winter Porch Pots Workshop: 1

The Botanic Garden Visitor Center is the location for this fantastic holiday workshop with floral designer Terry Hooper of Hooper's Farm Gardens! Participants use assorted greens, flowers, berries, ribbons and more to create a lovely winter porch pot to enjoy during the cold weather months. 10am–noon; $35 fee. MyNorthTickets.com Black Star Farms Premium Wine & Cheese Tasting: 1-31

Guided table service tasting includes six wines chosen to complement your palate, along with a souvenir glass, an artisan cheese board with house-made crackers, mixed nuts, and chocolate. Sit back and relax as you sip, nibble and excite your senses in the heart of Northern Michigan wine country. Suttons Bay. MyNorthTickets.com

May Erlewine and the Motivations: 14

Live music at the Old Art Building in Leland. This 7-piece retro-groove band plays original and soul classics with May carrying the show invoking a positive and intentional message. It’s warm and fuzzy, it’s fun while playing to the real struggles and grief in our lives. “Everyone’s welcome to be real and that’s the whole point,” Erlewine says of the dance parties. The result? An evening of small revolutions meant to shake things up, just enough. A room full of voices and motions and visions. oldartbuilding.com

Libby Stallman is calendar editor of Traverse. Enter your event information at MyNorth.com/events two to three months prior to event date. Questions or more information email Libby@mynorth.com.

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12/11 SHORT'S BREWERY DINNER The Cooks' House

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what to do | travel

SMALL-TOWN NEW YEAR’S EVE The midnight “ball” drop might be a glowing cherry dropped 115 feet (in TC) or an Upper Peninsula pasty (Escanaba, eh). But more than the countdown, a festive atmosphere draws you to our sweet downtowns.

TEXT BY KIM SCHNEIDER | PHOTO BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

MACKINAC ISLAND Mackinac Island’s anti-party has perhaps counter-intuitively become one of the state's hottest tickets, says Bart Berkshire at the Lilac Tree Suites and Spa. Otherwise closed for the winter, the hotel opens for the weekend, and it generally sells out for the next year shortly after the clock strikes midnight.

There’s a special magic to having the snow-cloaked island mostly to yourselves, he says, and once a couple or family visits, they seem to make it a tradition, he says. Just a few restaurants open, and mingling locals and visitors become fast friends. Most guests round out the weekend with outings on silent ski trails or sledding hills and take a trek on a horsedrawn carriage. Then there’s the low-key but well-cheered drop: a large stuffed turtle wrapped in lights, lowered from the Lilac Tree roof, complete with anticipatory countdown.

MACKINACISLAND.ORG

CHARLEVOIX Book a room at the Weathervane Terrace Inn and Suites, so on New Year’s Eve day you can take a short walk from town and somewhere near the town's drawbridge—this party's centerpiece. Some years, a replica drawbridge is lowered from the real thing; this year, the actual bridge will be lowered to the timing of the count. The planning committee has early birds and young families in mind with fireworks displays at both 9 p.m. and midnight. Fun starts in the early afternoon

with s'mores around bonfires at East Park, a free family movie, and the snowman building contest—try to best the reigning champion snow-shark. Round out the fun with bridge-drop specials at local restaurants or a fat tire bike trip (get your rentals at Revolution Bikes) on the woodsy (also good for walking and snowshoeing) trails of Mt. McSauba.

VISITCHARLEVOIX.COM

LUDINGTON & MARQUETTE Both of these Great Lakes shoreline towns—one on Superior, the other on Michigan, do New Year's right. Ludington boasts an outdoor tent area that come mid-evening turns party central. The beer tasting, live music and dancing are all in the center of this town, leading up to midnight fireworks and the drop of a particularly fiery ball decked out with 6,000 LED lights (visitludington.com). In Marquette, twinkly lights line trees near the Masonic Building, and crowds gather for the ball drop from the top. Toast the new year and the city’s creative microbrew scene with an Ore Dock Glad Tidings (made from ingredients found in Victorian England) or Blackrocks Nordsky Sessions IPA. DOWNTOWNMARQUETTE.ORG

Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she's the author of the recently-published book, 100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die. kimschneider.net

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essay | up in michigan

Dorie’s Legacy She’d often run the chairlift for an extra hour on lovely, late-season evenings, so we could all ski just a little bit longer.

TEXT BY JAMES MCCULLOUGH

In this picture, Dorie Sarns smiles alongside my parents who are young and stylish, with sporty yellow ski glasses, my mom in a fur hat. I’m the youngest child, 4 years old, and in my first ski season. It’s 1965, the year Dorie assumed ownership and management of Nub’s Nob where I would spend every winter—Thanksgiving weekend to the end of March—for over 40 years, cultivating a deep love for the sport I had to abandon.

From those early days, until she sold the resort, Dorie ran Nub’s like a club for locals, and for herself. I can still envision her riding the lift as her two dogs chased her up the hill, then back down as she descended with her definitive, controlled style. Even from a distance, we all knew it was Dorie as she took on the steepest hills, Scarface and Chute, even into her late years. I remember her as fearless, kind, and generous, holding costs to $5 day tickets, so anyone who wanted to could afford to ski.

By middle school, youth ruled the hills, flying past each other in tight mischievous squadrons, skiing out of bounds, building jumps and sometimes waiting midway up a short, steep run called “Crazy Otto” for anyone we knew to pass by at the bottom on their way to the lift. We’d tuck one after the other straight down like strafing warplanes to spray snow on our victims as we flew by, and on snowy days, the boldest among us would jump off the old red chairlift as it crested the hill at the top of Smokey, hoping ski patroller Hank Miller wouldn’t catch us and take our lift tickets.

We crowded the fire inside when cold, just long enough to defrost toes, then headed back out, all the time knowing the dear Germanic women in hairnets and worn, white aprons were glazing donuts in the basement kitchen, and anticipating Wanda Davert’s voice calling out the loud speaker when they were ready, sending children tucking downhill, kicking off our skis and digging in pockets for change.

As time passed, skiing became an obsession, and while most peers admired the baseball, basketball and football heroes of the day, our heroes were slalom and giant slalom champions, Jean Claude Killy, Ingemar Stenmark, the Mahre brothers, and the fearless downhiller, Franz Klammer.

When I joined the ski team freshman year, I found my only positive association with school. It was the early days of the program, through the kindness of the shop teacher, Mr. Festerling, a novice skier, who agreed to drive the bus and help set courses. So, we coached ourselves until Larry Gunderson took over, bringing with him the talented Shorter Brothers, Bill and Dean, who coached the team into one of the powerhouse programs in the state. It offered me discipline and direction in the insights of their paternalistic assistance. Dean, especially, understood how to build my fragile confidence, commenting with smiling praise and redirection: “That was good—now try it again and focus on finishing the turn,” while Bill pushed me toward aggressiveness and higher speeds. Through their instruction, we became talented racers and far better ski-

ers. No doubt I could not have survived public school without them. They are emblematic of Dorie’s spirit, the sense of familial ownership of place, and the passing on of skills and love of sport.

Four years later, after racing for the University of Michigan, I became Petoskey High School’s head ski team coach, driving young skiers to Nub’s every school day, setting courses, sharing what skill I’d acquired over the years. Jack Frank had begun a feeder program, The Ski Academy, we started a booster club, a middle school program, a ski swap to raise funds, and the boys won the state championship in 1987.

I moved on from coaching afterward, and in 1989 tore my right ACL off on the race hill, the beginning of the slow physical decay of that knee, and over time, a domino effect from an early life of high-speed skiing crashes, mountain bike crashes, a more recent motorcycle crash.

Oddly, it’s been 17 years since I’ve skied. After seven surgeries on most of my major joints, I feel like I’m held together with binder twine and Gorilla Tape. Still, when powder wafts from the sky, and on late season evenings, I think of Dorie, and it hits me how strange it is not to be in line at the green chair, among the old companions, anticipating the pull of gravity, the bite and rhythms of carving skis, and the warmth and generosity of those who came before.

James McCullough teaches at North Central Michigan College. jmccullough@ncmich.edu

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MERRY REVELERS, GLEN ARBOR WAITS FOR YOU. TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS PHOTOS BY JON-PAUL ALLGAIER + JESSE GREEN

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Christmas floats into Glen Arbor, on a 14-foot rowboat that the owner has had since he was a boy, and atop a lake he has swum in since he was a child. People in this tiny town, slipped between Sleeping Bear Bay, the Glen Lakes and the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, are fond of simple traditions‌

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '18

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JESSE GREEN JON-PAUL ALLGAIER

JESSE GREEN

COURTESY OF CHERRY REPUBLIC

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he owner of the boat, Frank Siepker, lives with his wife, Tracy, on Big Glen Lake. Over Thanksgiving weekend Frank and Tracy don waders, wrap a fresh-cut Christmas tree in lights, prop it in an aluminum frame that Frank built for his old fishing boat, stabilize the tree to the boat with guide wire, then wade in and drag the boat some 600 feet offshore where they anchor it in four feet of water.

The lake is icy by then, the wind is usually whipping and sometimes they have to fight waves. But the couple relishes the effort: “It’s pretty cool to wake up to every day,” Franks says of the tree.

Fortunately for folks crossing the bridge between Big and Little Glen Lakes, the Christmas tree is in easy view. After the sun goes down the colored lights shine on icy black, often moonlit, water.

Oh, holy night.

A couple miles away in downtown Glen Arbor at the iconic Art’s Tavern, owner Tim Barr does his part to welcome the holidays.

Imagine a guy who looks a little like Santa and a lot like ZZ Top. That’s Tim, and in the days before Thanksgiving he oversees

Snowor No

extensive decorating of his classic red brick tavern, the pièce de résistance being the words Merry Christmas and Happy New Year spelled out in man-sized letters lit up by white bulbs across the flat-topped roof. But as sure as Art’s Tavern only takes cash and checks, the lights don’t go on until the wee hours of the day after Thanksgiving. Which means that the bed-headed shoppers heading out at 6 a.m. for the annual Black Friday Shop in Your Pajamas event are welcomed into the otherwise dark town by the glowing orb emanating from Art’s.

That Friday evening, Glen Arbor formally kicks off the holidays with the lighting of the town Christmas tree and a Holiday Marketplace (that continues on Saturday) in the town hall. By the time holiday week arrives, the town is brimming with spirit. Read on for how to make the most of the holidays in Glen Arbor.

For lodging options: visitglenarbor.com

THERE’S PLENTY OF OUTDOOR FUN TO BE HAD IN AND AROUND GLEN ARBOR AT THE HOLIDAYS. HERE’S YOUR GUIDE TO GETTIN’ OUT THERE:

DOWNHILL SKIING The Homestead Resort This resort’s intimate, family-friendly ski area has 13 runs that range from easy to difficult, a ski school, ski rental a pony tow and a ski tow. It also has a jaw-dropping view of Lake Michigan from the top of the ski hill. thehomesteadresort.com

and you can walk the beach along the bay.

Those are the Manitou Islands on the horizon, Sleeping Bear Point is west, Pyramid Point is north and those shiny rocks with the honeycomb pattern are ice-covered Petoskey stones. Access the beach at the end of South Lake Street and South Manitou View Boulevard.

WALKABLE WINE TASTING TOUR Leave the car behind and saunter around Glen Arbor tasting local wines along the way at: Cherry Republic 6026 South Lake Street, 231.226.3014; Glen Arbor Wines, 5873 South Lake Street, 231.835.2196; M22 Glen Arbor, 6298 W. Western Avenue; 231.334.4420.

TRAILS Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail Stretching 27 miles from the town of Empire to Bohemian Road, this trail is a great place to immerse in a winter wonderland. Most sections are groomed for cross-country skiing. Snowshoes and fat tire bikes welcomed too. sleepingbeartrail.org

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore If it’s a snowless holiday week, any of the dozen or so trails of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore make for exhilarating hikes. Enough snow to head out on skis or snowshoes? The 8-mile looped Bay View Trail that winds through the farmsteads of the Port Oneida Rural Historic District is inspirational. Find the trailhead off Thoreson Road about 3 miles north of Glen Arbor. nps.gov/slbe/

BEST LITTLE PARK IN AMERICA Just this year, Glen Arbor unveiled a magnificent renovation of the township park located between M22, South Lake and State Streets. Bundle the kids up and turn them loose on ten universally accessible, state-of-the-art pieces of play-equipment.

Holiday bonus: the big climbing feature in the center even looks like a Christmas tree.

Palmer Woods Preserve Four miles of often-groomed trails wind through 721 acres on a ridge above Glen Lake. Bring your cross-country skis, snowshoes or fat tire bikes. From M22 north of Glen Arbor turn on Wheeler Road and proceed 3 miles to the trailhead. leelanauconservancy.org Sleeping Bear Bay Beach Stay below the high water mark (where the stones and sand end and the grass begins)

SNOW SPORT RENTALS The Cyclery at Crystal River Outfitters Cross-country skis, snowshoes, fat bikes and ice skate rentals. 6249 River Road, 231.334.4420.

The Homestead Resort Downhill and cross-country skis, ice skate rentals, snowboards, snowshoes. 1 Wood Ridge Road, 231.334.5000.

SLEIGH RIDE! Jingle all the way through the wooded trails of Black Horse Farms. Three sleighs that fit up to 12 well-bundled people can handle large groups. Sleighs stop at a trailside warming house for hot chocolate.

231.334.4705; blackhorsellc.com

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JESSE GREEN

JESSE GREEN

JON-PAUL ALLGAIER

BEST SLEDDING HILL EVER No trees. A whopper of a slope grade.

A cushy landing if you fall off your sled. Yep, the Dune Climb in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore—the park’s biggest attraction in the summer—is equally awesome in winter. To know: Wear goggles because no matter how deep the snow, the sand finds its way to your face; stay within the boundaries the park has marked for sledding; sledding or skiing of any type is prohibited unless there is snow (and if there isn’t it is still a blast to hike up and run down!) and you’ll need a park visitors pass. Find the Dune Climb on M109 3.7 miles southwest of Glen Arbor. nps.gov/slbe/

DUNE SLEDDING PHOTO CAPTION TO GO HERE 26 MyNorth.com

HOLIDAY SHOPPING Check your list twice at a handful of creative and hardy shops that stay open through the New Year...

Glen Arbor Artisans features the ink and watercolor visions of Kristin Hurlin and fine woodworking of Paul May. Closed Monday–Thursday. 5956 South Ray Street

LOCATION: M22 AKA WESTERN AVENUE Smack in the middle of town, the Totem Shop has long been known for its toy section—but adults can shop its fabulous outerwear with brands from Patagonia to Keen. 6521 Western Avenue

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY! CASUAL Burgers, tater tots to write home about and late night shotski (shots mounted on a ski) fun at Art’s Tavern (6487 Western Avenue, 231.334.3754), great tavern fare with a cherry accent and craft beer at Cherry Republic House (6026 South Lake Street, 231.266.3014), burgers, steaks, pasta and whitefish in an Up North ambiance at Western Avenue Grill (6410 Western Avenue, 231.334.3362), a crackling fire, well-stocked bar and great burgers, steaks and onion rings at Boone Docks (5858 Manitou View, 231.334.6444), don’t miss the burger with the egg on top, live music nights and more at the Little Traverse Inn (149 E Harbor Highway, 231. 228.2560), 10 miles north of Glen Arbor on M22.

Find a fresh, fun and eclectic mix of home elements, toys and clothes at Coastal, a beachy-style building located in the Crystal River Recreation District along with Crystal River Outfitter and the M22 Cyclery. 6324 W. Western Avenue Warm up with tea tasting at Great Lakes Tea & Spice, lust over the fabulous Turkishinspired handmade jewelry at Arabella, find cards and more at Joyfull. 6640 W Western Avenue LOCATION: SOUTH LAKE STREET Pick up your favorite cherry-themed products from preserves to pies, wine to T-shirts at Cherry Republic, all in an exuberant destination-shopping atmosphere. Outdoor fire pits on the pretty Republic grounds are made for winter s’mores. 6026 South Lake Street Browse bestsellers and books about the region and by regional authors in the Cottage Book Shop, an authentic cabin. 5989 South Lake Street Find gems, rocks and minerals in exquisite and creative settings at Becky Thatcher Designs. 5795 S Lake Street LOCATION: SOUTH M22 AKA RAY STREET The Sportsman Shop will outfit for everything you need to go ice fishing from the gear to styling outerwear from Woolrich, Columbia and Toad & Co. 5914 S Ray Street Glen Arbor logo wear and other souvenirs and gifts live side-by-side enlightenment for your soul at Cabin Fever and Evolve in the Village Sampler shopping plaza. 5917 Ray Street

FINE DINING Linger over upscale New American cuisine and the view of Sleeping Bear out the window at Blu (5705 S Lake Street, 231.334.2530); rave about the veal saltimbocca, lasagna bolognese and other pasta choices to at Trattoria Funistrada (4566 W. MacFarlane Road, Maple City, 231.334.3900); feel (and eat) like you are in a French country restaurant at La Becasse (9001 S Dunns Farm Road, Maple City, 231.334.3944), indulge in authentic Italian from Italian-born Chef Piomba at The Homestead Resort’s Nonna’s (1 Woodridge Road, 231.334.5000).

CARRYOUT Bear Paw Pizza in the center of town kills the hangries (6444 Western Avenue, 231.334.2327), Riverfront Pizza & Deli slings fab pizza and sandwiches to go on one side of the building and is outfitted with a small but mighty lunch deli open Tuesday through Friday on the other (6281 River Road, 231.334.3876), Market 22 makes real-deal Detroit-style pizza and sandwiches 10 miles north of Glen Arbor on M22 at (497 E Harbor Highway, Maple

City, 231.228.6422), the deli counter at Anderson’s Market (6545 Western Avenue, 231.334.3149) is a sure-bet for roast chicken and can’t stop-eating-it mac ’n’ cheese.

CARRY IN Bring a pizza or anything else your appetite desires and order up a glass of local wine to go with at Glen Arbor Wines (5873 South Lake Street, 231.835.2196).

NEW YEAR’S EVE There will be loads of holiday cheer, libations and live music at Boone Docks. But you have to reserve a table for one of two seatings at Art’s Tavern (231.334.3754) to see the ball drop … hint: a ladder, a rubber ball and aluminum foil.

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor at Traverse. lissa@traversemagazine.com // Jon-Paul Allgaier photographs lifestyle, food, product and weddings from his base in Traverse City. greyscalegroup.net // Photographer Jesse Green shoots commercial, wedding and lifestyle photography from Detroit and Leelanau County. jessedavidgreen.com

A Glen Arbor Christmas Story Curl up with the fam in front of a crackling fire and Margaret Day Travis’s beautifully penned memoir of her family’s annual Christmas-shopping trip to Traverse City from Glen Arbor out loud. Margaret was one of lumberman D.H. Day’s five children. Anyone who has ever scaled the Sleeping Bear Dune Climb will recognize his legacy, the Victorian-style Day barn and farmhouse that so elegantly marks the vista from the top of that huge sand pile.

HERE’S A TEASER. As we sped across the snow between the black and white winter hardwoods, our nerve ends literally vibrated with the sweetness of the Russian harness chimes ... The whole forest seemed to throb with a silver ecstasy.

FIND THE REST of the Glen Arbor story at MyNorth.com/ChristmasPilgrimage

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STORY BY MOLLY KORROCH // PHOTOS ARCHIVES OF MICHIGAN + ANDY WAKEMAN

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We all sat at the same place at each meal.

Growing up in Williamsburg, Virginia, my family and I always took a drive to Colonial Williamsburg and the nearby Jamestown Settlement during the holidays. We’d go see costumed interpreters at Jamestown butcher a hog with reproduction seventeenth century knives, and then stroll the cobblestone streets of Colonial Williamsburg pointing out holiday decorations fashioned from local period materials like magnolia leaves, cotton, and oyster shells. In the wintertime, the blunt scent of wood smoke wafted from the historic areas directly to our front porch.

As a southern-raised daughter of Michiganders, most of what I knew about Michigan history (according to my mom’s fourth-grade memories) was that ancient glaciers are responsible for the topography of the state, and special boats shipped Christmas trees from the Upper Peninsula to Chicago.

If growing up in Williamsburg taught me anything, it’s the importance of knowing what happened before you. Moving up north earlier this year, I was eager to learn about the myth and romance of lumberjack adventure: people from all around the country and some from overseas trying to make their way toward some kind of fortune—literally hacking their way toward uncertain futures with axes and two-man saws. A Michigan winter conjures images of people inhaling stacks of syrup-soaked flapjacks, snow freezing on men’s beards in the untouched morning air and, of course, the sticky, tingling scent of freshly cut pine. I discovered that the reality is, as it often is, a mix of exhaustion, desperation, joy, and sometimes a bit of success.

Men scouted for patches of pine and reported back to the various lumber barons, who hired even more people to come and chop it all down. Lumber camps sprouted up all over Northern Michigan, as lumber barons had already chewed up all the pine that the East Coast had to offer. By the 1880s, this seemingly random pocket of northwoods was the focal point of an entire industry.

For the lumberman, winter began in the fall. Early crews carved sleigh-paths through the woods in anticipation of the snowy days to come. The ground was still too soggy to efficiently transport the logs. They had to wait for the freeze.

For some, this was merely a seasonal job; a bachelor might work for one or two years—storing up adventurous stories to tell his grandchildren—then move on to a safer vocation before starting a family. Others were immigrants working to save money to bring their families to America. There were farmers who worked the fields in the warm months and went out to the woods in the winter. A few men were allowed to bring their families along. Women could work doing laundry or cooking for the camp.

Days began around 5 a.m. in a dark frozen morning. The men fed the camp’s resident oxen, horses, or other animals.

Then breakfast—pancakes or cold leftovers—and, clapping their hands together for warmth, a long walk to the day’s work in the woods. The kitchen workers, called “cookies,” sometimes brought hot lunches out to the men on sleds. Dinners were a silent affair, but sometimes an egregious action required words. One lumberjack remembers his first meal at a camp: “We all sat at the same place at each meal. That was the rule. There was nothing but benches to sit on but your position on that bench was important. I was a youngster when I went in there. I got in another man’s seat. When he came in he asked me to move. I resented it because I had my plate full and I was hungry. He just grabbed me around the neck and dragged me off that seat. I wanted to be a man awful bad. I got up and I hit him. Then he hit me and that was the end of it. There wasn’t a man that moved to protect this small young boy. The cook came out and he was the King—‘Take that fight outdoors!’ ” —George Hanner, a Michigan lumberjack, 1896

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The lumberjacks each ate between 6,000 and 8,000 calories per day, which is comparable to the amount eaten by Olympic athletes during peak performance. Logging companies went to great lengths to ensure that their workers were well fed and ate from good quality plates and cutlery. Tin was most common, but some companies kept ceramic dishes. The philosophy was that the happier the worker, the more likely they would be to return the following season.

Difficult but rewarding work, hearty meals, and cabin life may sound quaint or idyllic, but life in the woods was far from cozy. Daily operations records from Salling Hanson and Company in Grayling often included notes of workers hurt or killed: “One of our employees … was killed Saturday by a falling tree,” and, “Chris Johnson got two fingers taken off in loading big stuff in the woods. His hand was caught in the block.”

Out in the woods, you had to be alert to any potential danger to yourself or those around you. Even then, unavoidable accidents could happen.

Lumberjacks worked six days a week with Sunday as their only day of rest. They spent their free time playing games, singing together, or simply resting.

“As cards are not allowed, some rough games are played.

At nine o’clock the lights are put out and no noise disturbs the night’s quiet, except the snorers (by no means few) who keep up a not very agreeable concert,” wrote C.A. Harper, a Michigan lumberjack in 1882.

The holiday season brought much of the same—work.

First and foremost, a lumber camp was a place of business; however, instilling morale and camaraderie was also important to the company’s success: logging is a team sport. And though the lumberjacks all came from someplace different, a well-run camp could enjoy the community and fellowship of the holidays.

Unless Christmas Day fell on a Sunday, it was unlikely that they would be given the day off. Instead, their celebration came in the form of a hearty feast after the day’s work.

A cream soup was a particular treat as most everyday soups were broth-based, and meats would either be purchased in the local town or hunted and trapped by a company-hired hunter.

A home-cooked meal is always a comfort, particularly at Christmastime. And pie is a universal enjoyment—for most of us. (And to the rest of you, thanks for the extra slice.) I leave you with a bastardization of one of my favorite quotations: “Honestly, the best pumpkin pie you ever had was probably not that much better than the worst pumpkin pie you’ve ever had.” And, in that spirit, perhaps you’ll try your hand at this modern rendition of a lumberjack’s holiday pumpkin pie.

Special thanks to Historian Hillary Pine of Hartwick Pines State Park, Visitors Center & Logging Museum for providing a sample Christmas dinner—and pumpkin pie recipe—and for showing this Southerner around a beautiful Michigan park, but mostly for the wonderful coincidence of her name.

Molly Korroch is a journalist currently based in Suttons Bay. Visit her website at mollyhunterkorroch.com or follow her at @mollykorroch. // Photos from Archives of Michigan.

Lumber Camp Christmas Dinner Fresh and canned fruit, smoked and pickled fish , crackers , bread , rolls Mushroom cream soup Root vegetables such as turnips , rutabagas , and radishes with small pieces of bacon or salt pork , served with an apple cider vinegar dressing Available meats such as venison , pheasant, rabbit, or pork served roasted with plenty of stuffing and gravy Mashed potatoes , cranberry jelly , peas , green beans Pumpkin , apple , cherry and vinegar pies Molasses and shortbread cookies Fruitcake or plum pudding

Old-Timey Pumpkin Pie Makes enough filling for 3 pies 1 3 1½ ½ 4

1

quart milk cups boiled and strained pumpkin (or other squash) cups sugar cup molasses eggs: yolks and whites beaten separately a little salt tablespoon each ginger and cinnamon

Recipe adapted from the 1887 White House Cookbook. Temperature and time not given: the writer assumes a cook reading this would already know these things.

We’d suggest pouring the filling into tins lined with lard-based pie pastry, and baking the pies at 375 degrees for 45-60 minutes or until just-wiggly in the middle, but set.

MICHIGAN’S CHRISTMAS TREE SHIP. A legendary schooner carried the spirit of Christmas to turn-of-thecentury Chicago. Then one stormy year, it never came.

MyNorth.com/ChristmasShip

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '18

31

The long-kept secret to working hard and playing hard in the Michigan elements is simple: stay dry and warm in duds that will last a lifetime.

We explored Jay’s Sporting Goods—familyowned and headquartered in Clare since 1971—to find the classics, both new and tried-and-true.

Oh, yes, northwoods ruggedness is right in style, from the beard to the boots.

But it’s style with staying power.

Here’s our winter woods wish list, from head to toe...

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '18

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a snow day at sweetwater She’s

fun-loving.

creates

C

She’s wildly talented. Petoskey floral designer Kalin Sheick farm-to-door wreaths, having a jolly ol’ time along the way.

lassic lake effect. Snow is coming down at more than an inch per hour and it’s white, fluffy and picture perfect. It also helps to hide the parts of this small farm that aren’t the best. The winter here is a time for a blanket of white to wipe the slate clean.

From the windows in our kitchen looking out, it seems that there are no projects that await us, as they do in spring. This fresh beautiful canvas is what makes slowing down during this time of year so easy.

On a December day in 2015, my husband and I, both 20-somethings from the suburbs, unloaded a U-Haul and got to work on a scraggly 10 acres with a barn full of junk. The weather that day was unseasonably balmy. I like to joke that it was an act of kind karma from the weather gods, making it seem like this entire project would be easy.

We had sold the cutest house you could ever imagine in Cadillac, and moved north to be near our favorite place, Walloon Lake. My parents live on Walloon, and the summer before we’d been married in their backyard. We knew that if we wanted to lay our roots down in Northern Michigan for the long haul, it had to be nearby.

But the farm needed work. Lots of it. It was a true needle in the haystack find on the real estate market—just minutes from downtown Petoskey, yet it feels like it is deep in the country. When we pulled in the driveway for a walk-through in October of 2015 I told my husband Matt, “If it’s livable, we are taking it.”

I never really knew where the farm would lead us. I knew that lavender was in the plan, and honestly thought it would be just a small lavender farm. But slowly, as the plants matured along with us, we realized that it was a special gathering place for memorable, intimate and special events. In the summer of 2016 I started an event called, ‘The Gather Series’, a monthly dinner party where we invited strangers to our table, set in the field, to enjoy the best dishes from local food vendors. It was an instant highlight to our adventure here.

As a floral designer for weddings, my summers are jampacked. We also regularly host yoga, private events, flower workshops and meditation. Somewhere in that schedule I make it a priority to jump in the lake, take a nap in the lavender and have plenty of family time. All of that, paired with the lavender bloom in July, makes the seasons fly and in what feels like a blink, snow is falling again.

Our first full winter here I taught myself to make wreaths with stuff I cut from around the yard, and before I knew it we were hosting wreath workshops.

I’ve always loved wreaths. They are a symbol of hospitality, something we take pretty seriously here at our tiny 10-acre farm wedged between Walloon Lake and Little Traverse Bay. And Northern Michigan is bursting with the best materials you can imagine for making your very own evergreen wreath.

I put it out there that I was going to host a workshop in the barn, I’d teach everyone how to make an evergreen wreath for the holidays and we’d have a glass of wine and eat a cookie and listen to holiday music: it sold out in less than a week.

That first wreath party has turned into five wreath workshops hosted in the barn each season. In all, we teach about a hundred people how to make their own wreaths, a lifelong skill I hope they take with them to utilize season after season. And as the farm continues to feel more like our dream come true each day, I’ve learned the importance of slowing down, inviting friends over, and entertaining with no fuss, just fun.

The wonderful thing is, that anyone can throw a wreath party, whether they own a farm or not. Making the time for this special afternoon with friends in the midst of the busy holidays is a wonderful gift. Take it from me, you don’t have to wait until your house is perfect, barn is ideal, or you’ve become a better cook to start hosting. Time is a nonrenewable resource, and we only have so much. Fill your table with people you love, something delicious in a glass and magic will happen.

Don’t stress about decor, or tablescapes, I’ve found that when entertaining the more simple and seasonal I keep it, the more impactful it is. Nothing makes my heart happier than a table filled to the brim with natural materials being used to make a wreath. Other moments I love from these parties: letting candles burn down, the clinking of glassware and the relaxation of no-fuss entertaining.

I wish for you a place you can gather, a table you can sit around and the real connection shared over that table. I wish for you the moment the conversation goes up an octave and a champagne cork pops. I wish for you a dog sleeping under the table and that comfortable feeling that comes from surrounding yourself with family and friends.

Kalin Sheick is Owner/Creative Director of Sweetwater Floral. When she’s not designing stunning wedding flowers, you can find her stomping in the snow at her Petoskey farm with her giant dogs Maple and Wally, or clinking a glass of bubbly with her husband. // Courtney Kent is one half of The Compass Points Here, a photography and videography company based in Traverse City. thecompasspointshere.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '18

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throw your own

wreath party FORAGE NONTRADITIONAL INGREDIENTS FROM YOUR PROPERTY The farm has an entire field of red twig dogwood to cut from. I also forage cedar, pine and anything evergreen. Dried flowers are a dream to work with in wreaths. We dry thousands of bundles of lavender each summer, some of it for our wreaths. I also cut and dry hydrangea in the fall to use in wreaths.

PROVIDE THE TOOLS AND MATERIALS Give each guest a wreath frame and paddle wire (found at any craft store), garden scissors or ‘snips’ and room to work.

THERE IS NO RIGHT WAY! Encourage your guests to try funky combinations of materials and get creative.

Half the fun is seeing what everyone comes up with.

WREATH-MAKING 101 Your wreath will be constructed of small bundles of your foraged material attached to the wire frame with the paddle wire.

• S elect the material for your bundle. Know that you will want all of your bundles to be fairly uniform in size.

• Cut a length of paddle wire that is long enough to attach to the frame and wrap the bundle several times.

• Attach (by twisting) one end of the wire to the wire frame near its center.

Holding your bundle on the frame, wrap the paddle wire around the frame at least twice, tightening as you work, to secure your bundle.

• Repeat the steps, working around the frame until you are finished.

CHRISTMAS AT SWEETWATER Word of Kalin’s wreath workshops spread quickly and spots for this year sold out fast. You can still soak up a little of this Petoskey winter wonderland Nov 22-25 or Dec 1-2. Pick out a Christmas tree or one of her famous wreaths—with hot cocoa in hand, of course. sweetwaternorth.com

A HOLIDAY TRADITION. These local farms and markets have Christmas trees, wreaths, garland and plenty of sweet treats. MyNorth.com/ChristmasTrees

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '18

37

IF YOU WANT TO BRING A NEIGHBORHOOD TOGETHER, BREAKING BREAD IS A BEAUTIFUL PLACE TO START. STORY BY EMILY TYRA // PHOTOS BY MICHAEL POEHLMAN 38

MyNorth.com

T

he stars are out, and so are the morning buns. It’s a happy day at Common Good Bakery, most especially in the pastry case. Besides those buns—croissant dough rolled up with cinnamon, sugar and orange zest—there are buttery cheddar scones, almond croissants anointed inside and out with frangipane, and plump pain au chocolate that were hours in the making. Before their 6 a.m. debut, all these pastries were mixed, scooped, patted, proofed, folded, rested, rolled and many other verbs that makes them so irresistible.

And those breads: sourdough country loaves, with funny little “ears,” and sesame semolina baguettes, tips kissed with char. The aroma makes you want to tuck one under your arm and run to find the nearest pot of soup.

Common Good is a nook of respite smack dab in the bustle of Fourteenth and Division Streets. The baking team’s cadence, led by chef and owner Jason Gollan, is measured and relatively quiet, except for the intermittent roar from the 13-foot steam-injected brick oven. It was imported from Arcole, in the Veneto region of Italy and built by hand in the bakery.

“It took five of us a week,” says Gollan, “The manufacturer sent an engineer over from Italy, a man named Mario. The most amazing thing is that Mario had no instructions. It was all in his head.”

If the oven bellows and hisses when kids are in the store, Gollan teases that he’s keeping watch on a dragon in the back. It’s kind of true. Gollan, along with sous chef Kait Kelly, arrives at 1 a.m. to feed the beast up to 200 pounds of dough per hour. They make all the table bread for The Cooks’ House. They bake and deliver the ciabatta rolls and brioche buns Rare Bird uses for sandwiches and burgers.

The direct-to-restaurant business is the perfect balance, says Gollan, to the model he and his wife, Linda, a hospice nurse, wanted for their bakery from the start. A corner place focused on the surrounding neighborhoods. They bake to build community, in person, making sure the people of Traverse City have incredible bread to mop up their stews and to transform everyday breakfast toast into an event.

This morning, still before 7 a.m., three bread club members, lovingly called “bread heads,” pop in for their weekly loaf.

Members buy yearly or half-year shares and select a day to pick up their bread. “It’s like a CSA, only crustier,” Gollan deadpans. “For me, bread club is beyond just selling bread.

What I really want is for it to be a community.”

The bakery recently invited all bread club members and their families to a tent party in Common Good’s alley, serving punch and homemade Roman-style pizza. “Our mission is to make Traverse City a better place in every aspect. We live in a world that’s full of cynicism and fear, and that’s not going away, so why not focus more on hanging out and getting to know each other. That’s the real reason we’re doing it.”

Indeed. And, deep down, Gollan bakes because he’s made to be a baker. “I’ve worked in some great kitchens. I spent 10 years in kitchens, cooking. The pace of that, the yelling, the culture ... wasn’t my personality. You know? You have to be who you are.”

He likes baking because it’s essentially the same every day, but he gets to play inside of that. “If you are always working on how you can improve things ... then I think you are doing ok.”

And in Gollan’s quiet quest for continuous improvement, Common Good’s bread and pastries just keep getting better.

The ethereal crumb of the croissants came from nailing the proof time. He and his team spent a week working out a combo of precise scoring and steam to get the trademark “ears” on the country loaf. He holds a loaf by the ear. “If you can do that ... ,” hooking his fingers on the tawny ridge jutting irresistibly from the top of the loaf and trailing off.

When asked if that makes him happy, he says no. “But you’ve done your job as a baker.”

“Day to day, I do everything in the same order. That allows me to work on the nuance of everything, including how efficient my movements are and other things that don’t matter to anyone else,” he smiles.

Back to the pastry counter: A man, on his morning commute, picks out an apricot Danish. Based on the twinkle in his eye as he carries the bakery bag with a scratch-made gift inside to his warm car, those things do matter to this guy.

Common Good Bakery is open Tuesday through Saturday in winter. 6 a.m. to 3 p.m., 537 W. Fourteenth Street, Traverse City, commongoodbakery.com Emily Tyra is editor of Traverse Magazine. emily@traversemagazine.com // Michael Poehlman is a Traverse City-based commercial, portrait and fine art photographer. Check out some highlights at michaelpoehlman.com

SOUP & BREAD NIGHT Gollan takes the “common good” part of his bakery name seriously. He teams up with The Little Fleet and chef friends from local restaurants including Raduno, Betty’s Hot Dish, The Cooks’ House, S2S Sugar 2 Salt, Press On Juice and Harvest TC, for a free community meal that supports local charities. Local chefs donate soup. Gollan donates bread. You come eat soup and donate what you can to the charity selected each month. “Soup & Bread” night is at The Little Fleet, 6-8 pm the second Monday of the month through the winter. —E.T. Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '18

39

WE ASKED OUR READERS WHERE TO GO WHEN CRAVING FOR A WARM LOAF FRESH FROM THE OVEN. THESE ARE THE BASTIONS OF HAND-CRAFTED BREAD IN NORTHERN MICHIGAN. BAY BREAD CO., TRAVERSE CITY Blue cheese baguette? Asiago baguette? Ciabatta? These loaves leaven our dreams, and from them, we cannot choose just one.

9 BEAN ROWS, SUTTONS BAY A wood-fired oven is responsible for the perfect texture of their crusts.

Try the rustic baguette, airy ciabatta and sea salt and fennel bread.

STONE HOUSE BREAD, TRAVERSE CITY Cherry walnut, asiago, and Kalamata olive are just a few of the scrumptious loaves you’ll find in stores across Michigan, Ohio and Indiana.

BOYNE CITY BAKERY, BOYNE CITY Chef Gildas Berrou was born and raised in Quimper, France and spent years baking with some of the best bread chefs in Paris, Tours, Bordeaux and Lyon. Lucky for us, he’s now running his own bakery right here in Northern Michigan.

COMMON GOOD BAKERY, TRAVERSE CITY We can’t get enough of the thick-crusted country sourdough, which is fermented for 48 hours giving it an incredible tangy flavor.

CRESCENT BAKERY, FRANKFORT Potato, cinnamon raisin and honey whole wheat are just a few of the loaves you’ll find on the rotating bread schedule.

CROOKED TREE BREADWORKS, PETOSKEY The pepper Parmesan loaf generally gets all the attention (it is delicious), but the Locals’ Loaf is worth noting, too. Founder Greg Carpenter wanted to bake bread starting from seed, so with the help of Scheel Family Farm, he grew a small crop of Hard Red Winter Wheat. The Locals’ Loaf is made with only three ingredients: winter wheat, well water and a pinch of salt.

PLEASANTON BRICK OVEN BAKERY, TRAVERSE CITY Three words. Bacon. Onion. Baguette.

POTTER’S BAKERY, TRAVERSE CITY You’ll dream of cinnamon swirls after one bite.

THIRD COAST BAKERY, TRAVERSE CITY Third Coast Bakery makes allergy-safe bread (gluten-free, dairy-free, soy-free, vegan) and it tastes amazing.

Did we forget one? Don’t be shy: editorial@traversemagazine.com

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MyNorth.com

DECEMBER ‘18/JANUARY ‘19

For the Way You Live Up North

NORTHERN STYLE: SALVAGED LOOKS

TRENDS! STONE THAT ROCKS

ARCADIA BLUFFS SMALL FOOTPRINT, BIG STYLE TORCH LAKE RELAXED CONTEMPORARY

A SUPPLEMENT TO

HARBOR SPRINGS AN ARTIST’S RETREAT

GET MORE LIVING IDEAS AT MYNORTH.COM. CLICK ON LIVE HERE/HOME IDEAS.

PROMISE, PASSION & PROFESSIONALISM

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For more than 25 years, Drost Landscape has established itself as an industry leader in creating innovative and memorable environments by integrating Landscape Architecture, current construction techniques, skilled craftsmen and other related disciplines.

Drost Landscape proudly serves all of Northern Michigan and beyond.

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Quality Attention to every detail

Beauty rests on necessities.

The line of beauty is the line of perfect economy.

Ralph Waldo Emerson 1803 -1882

Paul Maurer General Contracting has been building beautiful custom homes in the Grand Traverse Region for nearly 40 years, and during that time we have learned at lot. The most meaningful lesson learned is this– it’s all about what the homeowner wants, not what we want. We believe in listening carefully to our customers and then delivering on their vision. It’s the cornerstone for success.

231.941.1448 • paulmaurer.com • Traverse City, Michigan

Volume 23

For the way you live Up North

•

Number 6

22

HOMES: DAVE SPECKMAN // SLAVAGED CAN: DAVE WEIDNER

12

32

features

departments

12 Living Art

From a brilliant artist’s mind comes her brilliantly designed home and studio.

7 Editor’s Note

Fluid Style

22 Up in Ardnamare

A not-so-big, perfectly designed home with a Lake Michigan view as big as the horizon.

32 Enlightened Lakeside

Sleek, clean-lined and full of light and views. This is not your grandmother’s cottage.

8 Northern Style

Salvaged Looks 11 Trends!

Stone that Rocks

Click on Live Here >Home Ideas

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC ‘18 | JAN ‘19

NHC3

DEC 2018/JAN 2019

contents

231.946.1234 env-arch.com

231.946.1234 env-arch.com

en•vi•ron•ment noun

LET’S DESIGN AND BUILD YOUR FOREVER HOME

• 1. the surroundings or conditions in which a person, animal, or plant lives or operates.

231.946.1234 env-arch.com

Contact a sales representative: Jason Kramer | (269) 366-9735 Jason.Kramer@Jameshardie.com © 2017 James Hardie Building Products Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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MyNorth.com

AD1609-N-05/17

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF

EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR WEB EDITOR

ART DIRECTOR

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Deborah Wyatt Fellows Emily Tyra Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr Rachel Watson

JUNIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Breanne Kerner

Julie Parker

DIRECTOR OF SALES

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Jim Driver Ann Gatrell Jill Hayes

Chris Hunt Meg Lau

Cyndi Ludka Drew Warner

MARKETING DIRECTOR

Rachel North

DIRECTOR OF AUDIENCE ENGAGEMENT AND BRAND STRATEGY

Joe Beyer

OFFICE MANAGER

Libby Stallman

CONTROLLER

Chris Ruszel

From the publisher of

Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 Fax: 231.941.8391 Email: x2k9g@traversemagazine.com

Subscriber Services To order or renew a subscription, order gift subscriptions, or change your address, visit us online at traversemagazine.com and click on “Subscriptions.”

To contact us by phone, call 800.678.3416 between 9 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. EST.

Reprints Wright’s Reprints, 877.652.5295

Northern Home & Cottage is published as a supplement to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine 125 Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684 All rights reserved. Copyright 2018, Prism Publications Inc.

1776 M-37 South, Traverse City

Phone: (231)943-3440 Fax: (231)943-3441 Email: Naturesedge1776@gmail.com

Granite, Marble, Quartz, Quartzite, Limestone, Onyx, and Soapstone Surfaces Professional Fabrication & Installation Free Estimates

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC ‘18 | JAN ‘19

NHC5

featured on

Sidock Group, Inc. is now throughout Michigan, providing Architecture and Engineering services to Residential, Commercial and Municipal clients.

Bradley J. Butcher, AIA bbutcher@sidockgroup.com 989.705.8400 sidockgroup.com Novi • Wyandotte • Lansing Muskegon • Gaylord • Sault Ste. Marie

Building your own getaway.

We pride ourselves on relationship-based homebuilding, remodeling, and painting. Our family of craftsmen is ready to partner with you to build your dream home.

bccfamily.com • 231-439-1600 • Harbor Springs, MI

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editor’s note

West Michigan

of

Grand Rapids

Traverse City

SUNROOMS

The perfect addition to all homes & cottages

Fluid Style

DAVE SPECKMAN

It is nearing our printing deadline as I write this, and I can’t help a bit of reflection on this issue of Northern Home & Cottage. My inbox is full of correspondence with the delightful homeowners and builders who helped make this magazine what it is. As usual, producing this issue has broadened my style/product horizons: I’ve learned about cool new windows that seal tighter when the wind blows, I saw a slab of coral-colored marble that made me swoon and I fell in love with the idea of an unbroken plane of porcelain flooring that continues from the living area through the outdoor terrace and up the fireplace facade.

All of that and more, yet, when I close my eyes I see water ... so clearly I can almost feel its ebb and flow.

My mind flashes images of the expansive Lake Michigan view from one of our three featured homes, this one atop a steep hill in Arcadia. I am dazzled by the brilliant blue of Torch Lake on the August day I visited the home in the story Enlightened Lakeside. And in my mind’s eye, I see the colorful boats that float blissfully from the ceiling (hung by wires) of artist Elizabeth Fergus-Jean’s studio in Harbor Springs. There’s more—a roiling early winter storm whose liquid gray mountains sank a schooner off Leland in 1854. In 1978, another storm parted the sand and up came the Lark. A young man named Pat McKee obtained a permit from the state to salvage the wood (it has long since become illegal to take anything from a wreck).

The old boards sat in storage for decades, until Pat decided to turn the old boards into handsome clocks and benches—see them on our Northern Style spread this month.

In remembering the water, I saw clearly how so much of what we build and create in Northern Michigan aches to capture the beauty, drama and essence of water. Water is to us what the desert is to Sedona, the hills to San Francisco, the mountains to Denver. It defines our lifestyle and, well, our style. How cool is that?

Our sunrooms, WeatherMaster® windows, decks and railings are designed for a worry-free experience. They are designed to extend your enjoyment of the outdoors without common annoyances like wind, rain, insects and harmful U.V. Rays. A Sunspace Sunroom, as well as our WeatherMaster® products will not only add beauty and comfort to any home or cottage, but also increase the value.

WEATHERMASTER® WINDOWS & DOORS

Traverse city

231-360-9827 Grand Rapids

616-249-8712

sunspacewestmichigan.com

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com.

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC ‘18 | JAN ‘19

NHC7

1

2

4

3

SALVAGED LOOKS

SMALL TOKENS OF HISTORY CURATED BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS AND GAIL SNABLE PHOTOS DAVID WEIDNER

8

MyNorth.com

1. Lithograph Blocks: Antiquities Barn, 231.943.2121, antiquitiesbarn.com, $85 each 2. R eclaimed Barn Wood Kitchen Island: Great Lakes Reclaimed, 719.322.3344, greatlakesreclaimed.com, $2,200 3. G asoline Can Lamp: Old Spud Warehouse, Gaylord, 989.731.0330, oldspudwarehouse.com, $299 4. C lock Made From the Salvage of a Lake Michigan Shipwreck: Pat McKee, Petoskey, 231.409.4023, $2,450

8

5

6 9

7

10 5. H orse Barn Door: Antiquities Barn, 231.943.2121, antiquitiesbarn.com, $1,600 6. C orbels: Deer Creek Junk, East Jordan, 231.675.2606, deercreekjunk.com, $65 each 7. F rench, Bread Board: Antiquities Barn, 231.943.2121, antiquitiesbarn.com, $250

9. H andcrafted Bench Made From the Salvage of a Lake Michigan Shipwreck: Pat McKee, Petoskey, 231.409.4023, $675 10. G lobe Ornaments: EmpireBlu, Traverse City, 231.944.0643, FB, $7 each

8. O ld Indian Motorcycle Bar Sign: Grey Wolf Creek, LLC, Traverse City, 231.922.9535, $500 Northern Home & Cottage

DEC ‘18 | JAN ‘19

NHC 9

The Original Stormy Kromer Cap

by Stormy Kromer

Petoskey Stone Pillow

by L. Saile Designer Jewelry

At Widing Custom Homes, we can build you custom comfort, like no other.

Accredited by The Better Business Bureau

www.WidingCustomHomes.com 934 South Garfield Ave, Traverse City | 231.933.6680

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MyNorth.com

trends!

STONE THAT ROCKS

By Elizabeth Edwards

At his new Stratus Marble & Granite location across from the Traverse City Baseball Stadium, owner Brad Jurik has more than enough space to do what he loves: import the planet’s most beautiful slabs of natural rock to Northern Michigan and fabricate them into countertops, wall hangings, fireplace facades, floors and more. We checked in with Brad to learn more about what he does.

I felt like a kid in a candy store touring your fabrication plant—the colors and the patterns are just phenomenal! What am I seeing?

Granite, quartzite, onyx, slate, travertine, marble, limestone, labradorite, basalt …

Where does it all come from?

The material is literally from all over the world. Fifty percent of the world’s granite come from Brazil right now, but we also have material from India, Mexico, Italy, China, Canada, Madagascar …

Give us a quick primer on the best way to use some of these rocks: Granite comes in all patterns and colors and holds up well in the kitchen.

Quartzite is a natural rock (Quartz is the trademark name for man-made material that consists of quartz that has been crunched up and glued back together).

It is beautiful and desirable from the standpoint that it has the visual characteristics of marble—with flowing veins. Like granite, it holds up well in kitchens.

Marble is used often for its beauty but it is minerally different than granite and acid can etch it.

Limestone is actually a younger marble. It is just not fully crystallized, and it is also sensitive to acid.

Using it in bathrooms is a less of a concern than in the kitchen but there are ways of treating it so that it is highly resistant.

Onyx, while composed of the same minerals as marble, is generally translucent. When it is backlight it is just gorgeous.

Okay, so you get shipments of these hunky slabs to Stratus. How do they make their way to people’s homes?

Once a customer visits and selects a stone, we come to your house and make a digital template of where the slab will be used. Then we program that template into our robot friend to cut the pieces. We have a machine that has both a diamond saw and water jet.

The saw cuts faster than the water jet and is good for straight cuts and mild curves. The water jet is for more complicated cuts. Some of the slabs make a pit stop for a custom-edge on a different machine.

From that point we go from The Jetsons to the The Flintstones—meaning we polish each slab by hand.

There are machines that will do it, but if there are any flaws the machine just polishes them in. When we do it by hand we can do touch-ups and fixes.

Working with this stone is obviously about fine home design—but it is also about something much more ancient. Do you find you are conscious of that?

Oh yes, all the time. Our Carrera marble is from the same quarry as the marble from Michelangelo’s statue of David.

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '18 | JAN '19

NHC 11

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living art ELIZABETH FERGUS-JEAN CREATES ART THAT IS EQUALLY THOUGHT-PROVOKING AND BRILLIANTLY BEAUTIFUL. AND THAT’S JUST THE WAY SHE DESIGNED HER HARBOR SPRINGS HOME AND STUDIO.

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '18 | JAN '19

NHC 13

ARTIST ELIZAB ETH FERGUS -J E AN ’ S MEMORY BOATS “ FLOAT” B ELOW THE CEILING IN THE STU DIO SHE SHARES WITH HER H USBAND, PHOTOG R APHER AND MASTER PRINTER , JOHN FERGUS -J E AN .

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ELIZAB ETH DESIG NED THE L ABYRINTH THAT SHE WALKS AS A PART OF HER DAILY MEDITATION .

he journey (yes, that is what it is) into the home of artists

T

To stand in the big, open studio (with a fire dancing in the field-

Elizabeth Fergus-Jean and her husband, John, begins at

stone fireplace on the cool autumn day I visited) is to understand

the pale aqua, wood-slat front door that is set in a stone

that there is so much more here than meets the eye. A fact that is not

tower—a tower that is, and is meant to be, reminiscent of Bollingen

surprising given that beyond her Masters in Fine Art and her subse-

Tower in Switzerland, built by the famous psychologist Carl Jung.

quent career as an exquisitely skilled artist, Elizabeth has a Ph.D in

Enter the tower and look up to the peaked clapboard ceiling where

Mythological Studies—a degree that emphasized depth psychology,

tiny colored boats (that are in fact hung from the ceiling) seem to

defined loosely as the study of unconscious mental processes. Which

float in the air. They are a part of a project-series Elizabeth calls

brings us back to the tower, and its “shoutout,” as Elizabeth calls it,

Memory Boats. “Boats being a metaphor for the journey through life

to Carl Jung.

and onto the next life,” she explains.

Beyond all of that, Elizabeth also studied architecture. Which is

Through the doorway and into the spacious studio, more boats

why when she and John had the chance to build the home and studio

greet you; most are life-sized and hung on thin wire from the ceiling.

of their dreams in the forest north of Harbor Springs, she knew she

Each is unique, colorful and meant to convey a message. The boat

would design the structure, in her inspired and meticulous way, right

Elizabeth is working on the day I visited, Pining, is painted with

down to every last piece of molding, window placement and storage

ochre squiggly marks weaving across the brown, bark-like boat, to

cupboard. She even developed a Sherwin Williams paint color for her

resemble what happens to a tree when a pine beetle attacks it. Like

walls that is called Trance Gray—a color that plays off the shades

all of Elizabeth’s art, the boat is an environmental statement about

of bark on the trees in the forest outside the banks of 6-by-6 foot

the perils faced by our planet. When Pining is exhibited, it will hang

windows that line the walls and bring the outdoors into this room.

from the ceiling. Huge photographs of ravaged forests—photos that

“I call this my dream studio home as it combines all the elements I’ve

Elizabeth has taken and that John, a master printer, has printed, will

been dreaming about for 35 years,” she says.

➤

surround the boat.

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '18 | JAN '19

NHC 15

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DEC '18 | JAN '19

NHC 17

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ELIZAB ETH FERGUS -J E AN AT WORK IN HER STU DIO.

From the studio with its lofty view of the woods and its many inhabitants including deer and turkeys, the home cascades down to a small, perfectly efficient and perfectly enchanting living area.

This space shares many of the elements of the studio, the silver-gray stained maple flooring, soft-sage colored cabinetry with beautifully silver sparkled quartz and those magnificent 6-by 6-foot windows.

But Elizabeth kept the ceiling lower here as if to mimic the lower elevation outside the windows. The effect is a striking intimacy with the forest. One more metaphor for the human connection to the natural world, in a home and studio that is rich with them.

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com // Photos by Dave Speckman

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '18 | JAN '19

NHC 19

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DEC '18 | JAN '19

NHC 21

up in ardnamare HAVING IT ALL JUST MAY BE A ROLLING DUNESCAPE, A WORLD-CLASS GOLF COURSE AND A VIEW OF LAKE MICHIGAN IN YOUR FRONT YARD. ALL OF THAT AND A PERFECTLY THOUGHT-OUT, NOT-SO-BIG HOUSE.

CHRISTAL SAYS THAT ONE BON US OF HER SMALL BUT EFFICIENT KITCHEN WAS THE AFFORDABILIT Y OF HER MARB LE BACKSPL ASH . “ WE NEEDED SO LIT TLE THAT THE PRICE WASN ’T THAT BAD.”

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MyNorth.com

C

hristal McManus was raised in Indiana, not far from Lake Michigan and as long back as she can recall, she says, “Lake Michigan was at my core.” As an adult, her work took her

to Memphis, Tennessee, far away from those sparkling, freshwater shores. Christal learned to love Memphis, and even more so, her husband, Steve McManus, whom she met there. The couple had a big, busy life in Memphis—children, careers (including his as a state representative for 10 years) and a roomy house filled with French country antiques.

Years ago, the couple began planning for when the kids were raised and they could carve out a simpler lifestyle around the outdoor activities they both adore. Steve bought into Christal’s Lake Michigan passion, and the McManuses began property-scouting trips along the eastern Lake Michigan shore from St. Joseph all the way up to Harbor Springs. Christal did her homework first, scouring the Internet for interesting properties. One standout was a lot that was just south of the tiny town of Arcadia on M22. Situated atop a bluff that crests 450-feet above Lake Michigan—the property is surrounded by a dramatic, windswept scrubby-dune landscape that reminded the couple of the Irish coast, a place they both love, and that Steve, particularly, feels a strong connection to as he has family in Ireland.

They visited on a summer day nine years ago, and, yes, the property was as beautiful as the neighbor who was selling it had promised. The fact that the only development in sight was (and still is) the spectacular Arcadia Bluffs Golf Club upped the deal for Steve, an avid golfer.

The couple camped on the property for years, getting acquainted with its contours and the wildlife who called it home—deer, coyote, bear and bobcat (and judging from a huge set of cat prints Christal found on it last spring, likely a cougar). All the while, Christal scoured magazines and the Internet for house plans that captured their dream for “something very simple to build that capitalized on the views, gave us efficient use of a smaller footprint and offered us good options to bring the outdoors in on nice days.”

Eventually she came across plans for a not-so-big home in Seaside, Florida, with a layout that captured her attention for the way the home’s functional spaces—foyer, stairways and bathroom—were tucked into the back, leaving the view wide open to the living areas.

But on the exterior, it was a 1930s Swedish Classic Gothic—hardly the “Nantucket-meets-farmhouse look” look that she and Steve thought would fit well with the site.

➤

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '18 | JAN '19

NHC 25

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SH P

LEF T: AMONG THE TOUCHES THAT MAKE THE SMALL , G R ACIOUS FOYER FEEL L ARG ER IS THE SIG HTLINE CRE ATED BY LINING U P THE STAIRCASE TO THE U PSTAIRS WITH THE STAIRS TO THE WALKOUT LE VEL (OVER THE R AILING) ON EITHER SIDE OF THE FRONT DOOR .

RIG HT: THE MCMAN USES CARVED OUT AN OFFICE /LIB R ARY WHERE THE ORIGINAL PL AN CALLED FOR AN ELE VATOR . THE SPACE IS OUTFIT TED WITH A BOOKSHELF, COMPUTER DESK , RE ADING CHAIR AND TINY BALCONY THAT LOOKS OUT OVER THE DU NESCAPE . “ THAT’ S ALL YOU NEED, RIG HT ? ” CHRISTAL SAYS .

The McManuses sent the plan to their builder, Silverwood

a Carrera marble backsplash add effortless sophistication. Bonnie’s

Enterprises in Traverse City, whose team, led by Silverwood’s

resourceful and creative touches are found throughout the home,

founder and president Kendall Smith, transformed it into a Northern

including the stunning coral-toned marble countertop in the master

Michigan coastal home with everything the couple wanted. Off went

bath—a slab she discovered across the state in Flint.

the Gothic embellishments, on went cedar shingles, white clapboard

Kendall didn’t sign off on the project until he was sure the home

and simple, classic porch railings. Interior alterations included

could stand up to Northern Michigan winters and the year-round

removing an elevator to make room for an upstairs home office and

winds off Lake Michigan. Among his recommendations—welcomed

opening the kitchen to the living area. Silverwood’s field supervisor,

and inputted by the McManuses—were modified French doors at

Matt Nemode, worked closely with Christal to custom design and

the walkout level where the wind blows toward the house. While the

build a fireplace mantel, face and coordinated cabinetry that anchor

doors look like the real thing, they only open on one side to help block

the room in traditional cottage style.

wind gusts when they are opened. Kendall also altered the design

For the kitchen design, the Silverwood team recommended

of the two-tiered deck to accommodate snow and water runoff.

MasterCraft Cabinets whose designer, Bonnie Woolsey, took the lead

Additionally, he assisted Christal in the window selection. She chose

from the creamy white fireplace mantel and designed custom creamy

extra long windows with two panes at the top, a cottagey touch.

white kitchen cabinetry, and a three-paneled range hood that mimics

Kendall approved of the windows’ engineering—the harder the wind

the living area’s fireplace chaise. Black soapstone countertops and

blows the tighter their seal.

➤

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '18 | JAN '19

NHC 27

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THE G ENEROUS G ROU ND FLOOR BALCONY MAKES THE SMALLISH G RE AT ROOM LIVE L ARG E .

The home, finished this past summer, is sublimely suited to its

is more than sated and, to make so many great things better, Steve’s

site and to the couple who are enjoying it immensely. The diminu-

Gaelic-soul is delighted by the haunting strains of bagpipes that float

tive 936-square-foot footprint rises from a walkout level finished

across the dunescape, courtesy of the bagpiper who plays many

with two guest suites, the main level houses the kitchen and living

summer evenings on the grounds of Arcadia Bluffs Golf Club. All of

area and the third floor is devoted to the master suite and gem-sized

which spells out the reason for their home’s name, Ardnamare.

library/office. The interior style is a perfect balance of Christal’s care-

Christal came up with the idea for the name when she and Steve

fully curated French antiques and a relaxed coastal vibe enhanced

visited Ireland in 2014. In Gaelic, Ard means a high grassy hill, Na

by fabulously understated Benjamin Moore wall colors: Pale Oak on

means near and Mare is the sea. Christal’s parents gifted them the

the main level; White Sand in the master suite and Sailcloth on the

quarterboard (a ship’s sign) with the name in Gaelic-style letters that

walkout level. All the trim, including the fireplace mantel and face is

is now mounted on the front of the house that stands in dune grass

White Dove.

and looks out on a freshwater sea.

The serene wall colors are the backdrop for the incredible view of dune grass, small-but-resilient trees and seemingly endless water

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com // Photos by Dave Speckman

that envelops the home. Christal’s craving to be near Lake Michigan

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '18 | JAN '19

NHC 29

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resources Up in Ardnamare, page 22

CONTRACTOR Silverwood Enterprises, 231.929.2445, silverwoodenterprises.com WINDOWS Old Mission Windows, 231.947.2120, oldmissionwindows.com CABINETRY Mastercraft Cabinets, 231.276.9160, mccwoodworking.com FLOORING Bay View Flooring, 231.947.6900, bayviewflooring.com APPLIANCES Max’s Service Appliance, 231.947.6830, maxsservice.com UPHOLSTERY Mathewson Upholstering Studio, 231.398.9373, FB WINDOW TREATMENTS Kerry’s Blinds, 231.398.3053, kerrysblinds.com

Your Your Source Source For: For: Cabinetry Cabinetry Decks Decks Houses/Garages Houses/Garages Floor Covering Floor Covering Pole Barns Pole Barns Windows & Doors Windows & Doors Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '18 | JAN '19

NHC 31

enlightened lakeside AN INSPIRED ARCHITECT & ENGAGED HOMEOWNERS PULL ON AGE-OLD ARCHITECTURAL PRINCIPLES TO CREATE A FRESH TAKE ON WATERSIDE LIVING. TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS // PHOTOS BY DAVE SPECKMAN

THE STU NNING PORCEL AIN -TILED FIREPL ACE ADS INTIMACY TO BOTH SIDES OF THE G RE AT ROOM WHILE PRESERVING B E AUTIFU L , AIRY SIG HTLINES .

34

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A

rchitect Ken Richmond and his wife, artist Joan Richmond, spend a lot of time in Italy. Ken’s passion for the country, which Joan shares, began with a couple of college abroads

there years ago. Based in Rome, they’ve toured the entire country, including the renowned Amalfi Coast where villas nestled into the sides of the Lattari Mountain look over the cobalt waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Which, I strongly suspect, is why, when standing on the porcelaintiled terrace of this home overlooking the intensely blue, 19-mile-long Torch Lake, I felt as though I were in a villa. Not that Richmond, or the discerning homeowners, would ever desire a literal re-creation of an Italian villa in Northern Michigan. The homeowners imagined a contemporary rendition of an American lake house when they hired Richmond, who has made a reputation for his beautiful cottage designs—each distinct yet all evoking some sense of Northern Michigan lake-country vernacular architecture.

But like the skilled and wise architect that he is, Richmond is guided by ancient principles: perhaps the foremost being to work with the land, not against it—a feat that is particularly difficult when the site is hard to build, as in a parcel with a steep slope on one side, and a road on the other. As in the case of much of the Amalfi Coast.

As in the case of this Torch Lake lot. All too often, the modern fix is to scrape the site and create a plateau.

Richmond chose the ancient solution: snuggling the roadside part of the house into the hill. “That side of the house is buried three feet, which makes the house look much smaller from the road and blend into the site … I love that,” Richmond says.

On the waterside, the homeowners understandably wanted as much outdoor space attached to the home as possible (their beautiful beachfront is many steps down at the bottom of the slope). So Richmond planned the home’s design around a luxuriously generous terrace and then shaped the home around it in a kind of loose U. Or as he explains it: “I think of that house like a bridge. It feels like it is strung out across the hillside and then there is this spaciousness looking out at the water.”

A home snuggled into and strung out along an ancient hill with a terrace that overlooks a cobalt inland sea ... you get where I am going.

Being as conscious of the local vernacular as he is of the local topography, however, Richmond added exterior elements that reflect traditional Northern Michigan cottage design. The two wings

ARCHITEC T KEN RICHMOND DESIG NED THE U PSTAIRS BATHROOM WINDOWS TO MAKE THE ROOM FEEL LIKE IT IS HOVERING OVER THE WATER LIKE A SHIP ’ S B ERTH .

attached to the “bridge” (which houses the great room)

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '18 | JAN '19

➤

NHC 35

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TOP: THE KITCHEN TUCKED AT THE BACK OF THE G RE AT ROOM IS SHIELDED FROM THE ROAD VIEW BY DEEP E X TERIOR E AVES . SMALL BUT VERY EFFICIENT, IT IS OUTFIT TED WITH KEN ’ S TR ADEMARK PANTRY DESIG N THAT LOCATES THE REFRIG ER ATOR IN A SPACIOUS PANTRY OFF THE WORK ARE A .

BOT TOM : THE STAIRCASE LE ADS TO AN OPEN B RIDG E THAT LOOKS OVER THE G RE AT ROOM AND LE ADS TO THE GU EST WING .

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '18 | JAN '19

NHC 37

12/1-12/31

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MyNorth.com

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TORCH L AKE SPRE ADS BIG AND B LU E J UST OVER THE TERR ACE WALL .

for example, don’t mirror each other —one is two-stories, the other

Structural engineer Angelo Vozza of Avanti Engineering worked

is a single story to give the effect of an old structure that was added

with builder Roger Gribi to execute the design. The homeowners

on to over the years. Dark stained, rough board and batten siding and

captained the decisions on the interior finishes, working with Nowak

deep eaves also help ground the structure in its Northern Michigan

Cabinets on minimalist modern-style kitchen cabinets in warm

environment.

wood tones. They also chose to clad the floor, fireplace chimney and

That said, the home is anything but your grandmother’s cottage, as in the stunning and contemporary two-story grid of windows that

face in coordinated porcelain tile that flows out on to that terrace— and feels like a contemporary take on marble.

flank the front door—an entry that is set on the side of the home

After two summers spent in their home, the homeowners under-

away from the road—and that floods the great room with light.

stand that their architect designed them a home for the ages: classic

Likewise, light pours in from the wall-sized glass Nana door between

yet contemporary; organic yet fresh and light as a new day. “We just

the great room and that fabulous terrace and its incredible Torch

love it,” says the homeowner.

Lake view.

Richmond has filled this home with other smaller but significant

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com // Photos by Dave Speckman

touches including a sleek floating staircase that climbs to a floating bridge that leads to the adult children’s suite, windows that are set at purposeful angles to catch the gorgeous lengthwise views of Torch and several window niches that hover over the water like a ship’s berth.

Northern Home & Cottage

DEC '18 | JAN '19

NHC 39

resources

Enlightened Lakeside, page 32

ARCHITECT Richmond Architecture, 231.946.0400, richmondarchitects.net BUILDER Gribi Builders, 231.264.5545 ENGINEERING Avanti Engineering, 231.933.0130, avantiengineering.net WINDOWS Marvin,Thomas & Milliken, 855.995.0900, tmmill.com KITCHEN CABINETS AND CUSTOM BED Nowak Cabinets, 231.264.8603, nowakcabinets.com APPLIANCES Max’s Service & Appliance, 231.947.6830, maxsservice.com TILE INSTALLER Wenger Tile & Marble, 231.421.1058 ELECTRICAL H & M Electric, 231.267.5059

1480 S. West Bay Shore Dr.,Suttons Bay, MI 49682 231-271-0010

1701 South Airport Rd. West Traverse City, MI 49686 231-947-1400

northernbuildingsupply.com 40

MyNorth.com

EXCAVATING Powell Excavating, 231.632.8498 LANDSCAPING Anita Silverman, 231.932.1925

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More Brew Pubs | 43 Spirit-Full Fruitcakes | 49 Dark Beers | 51

TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU | PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

BREW PUBS

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14277 MACKINAW HIGHWAY, MACKINAW CITY | 231.427.7007 Hunkered under a copse of old birch trees, Bière de Mac stands as a fortress of freshly brewed farmhouse ale just before the bridge. Polished wood paneling and black vinyl armchairs channel the ghost of a retro supper club that occupied the building for four decades before father/son duo George and Danny Ranville opened their brewpub in January of 2017. The menu, driven by Chef Edgar Jacobs, tracks brewfriendly couture anchored by sharing plates like flash-fried cauliflower glazed with honey, lime and sriracha, seriously

legit housemade baba ganoush and nachos mounded with roasted pork shoulder and charred green chiles. For beer enthusiasts in need of heartier fare to offset the Imperial ABV’s, Bière de Mac unapologetically delivers sweet potato poutine with cilantro and gouda curds, crispy whitefish goujons and formidable burgers like the Au Cheval dressed with green chiles, pepper jack and a fried egg. Read on this month as we indulge our early winter metabolism in the North’s best beer halls.4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '18

41

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TRAVERSE CITY • PETOSKEY • ANN ARBOR • HOLLAND

FUSTINIS.COM

brew pubs | dining

FOODIE FILE

George Ranville OWNER | BIÈRE DE MAC BREW WORKS

Centuries-deep roots in the Straits of Mackinac and a dose of entrepreneurial bravado inspired George Ranville and his son, Danny, to launch the Tip of the Mitt’s northernmost craft brewery in the winter of 2017. With two years of the beer business under his belt we sat down with George to talk inspiration, brew food innovation and the best way to gain five pounds in one meal.

Biere de Mac was an aprés-run idea?

Yep. Five-and-a-half years ago my wife and I were marathon training on the island.

When we finished in Marquette Park we met up with Danny and I told him ‘Wouldn’t it be great if we could get a cold local craft beer right now.’ He agreed.

Here we are.

DANNY RANVILLE, LEFT; GEORGE RANVILLE, RIGHT

ON THE ROAD

Burn a few calories on the snowshoes then get dosed fresh from the firkin with craft beers and creative eats at these winter brew pub destinations.

PADDLE HARD BREWING 227 EAST MICHIGAN AVENUE, GRAYLING | 989.745.6388 NORTH CHANNEL BREWING COMPANY 86 WASHINGTON STREET, MANISTEE | 231.299.1020

DAVE WEIDNER

FILLING STATION MICROBREWERY 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY | 231.946.8168 BEARDS BREWERY 215 EAST LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY | 231.753.2221 STIGGS BREWERY & KITCHEN 112 SOUTH PARK STREET, BOYNE CITY | 231.497.6100

What’s it like being the last brewery before the bridge?

Because of the huge seasonal swing in this town we have a small cast of regulars compared to most breweries so we have to reach out to travelers. That means providing great beer and interesting food that gives people a reason to pull off the freeway on their way to Lansing or Menominee.

You guys have definitely stepped out of the burger and pretzel box. Tell us what drives the menu.

We’re catering to foodies. Beer is very versatile with food and you can come here and pair a pint of our Dive Bar Situation Double IPA with soba noodles in dashi broth.

I can dig double IPA and dashi but since we’re talking dark beers this month what’s a clutch pairing for the cold?

I’d order up a flight of our Bateau Brown, 49 Fathoms, Dark Sky Dunkel and Winnie the Bulldog Imperial stout paired with our Mighty Mac & Cheese that has bacon lardons, Plath’s Polish sausage and butternut squash. That’ll warm you up.

Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com.

Dave Weidner is a freelance photographer based in Traverse City. dweidnerphoto@gmail.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '18

43

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restaurant guide | dining

CHARLEVOIX/ANTRIM/OTSEGO/ CRAWFORD/KALKASKA

Restaurant Guide

BLD: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner BAR: Alcohol served. $: Entrées under $10 $$: $10–20 $$$: Above $20 Water view

Cormack’s Deli Fabulous sandwiches, soups and bbq, open Mon.-Fri. 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. BL • $ 2569 CHARLEVOIX AVE.,

PETOSKEY, 231.347.7570

Duffy’s Garage and Grille Pasta, burgers, inventive pizzas. LD • BAR • $$ 317 E LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3663

new

MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0466

231.439.9250

Traverse City

Manistee

Kalkaska Grayling

Cadillac

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR •

$-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

BELLAIRE/BOYNE/WALLOON

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. LD • BAR

SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

$-$$$ 04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. D, SUN. BRUNCH • BAR • $$-

Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge— Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern—American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD •

The Paper Station Fresh, relaxed and inventive foods. BLD • $ 145 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4546

Pierson's Grille & Spirits Ribs, whitefish, pizza, burgers and other staples of life. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 130 STATE ST., HARCharcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL ST.,

PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771 Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD •

Pellston Harbor Springs Petoskey Bay Harbor

Gaylord

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY,

new Pour Public House

Mackinaw City

Bellaire Elk Rapids

Frankfort

BOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2967

Mackinac Island

Boyne City East Jordan

Ellsworth

Smokey Jose’s Water-side restaurant where BBQ and bourbon meet tacos & tequila. LD BAR $-$$ 7263 MAIN STREET

LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321

EMMET AND NORTH

Petoskey

7304 MAIN ST, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8255

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour.

Go to MyNorth.com/restaurants

Charlevoix

Huron Street Pub & Grill Classic pub food. LD BAR $-$$

$$$ 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY, 877.442.6464

Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants

Mackinaw City

BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 Moka A fireplace in, a rustic-modern patio out, plus Italian coffees, irresistible sandwiches and baked creations. BLD • $

102 SOUTH BRIDGE LANE, BELLAIRE, 231.533.6262

The Pelican’s Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads homemade desserts. D BAR $-$$ 5085 SHANTY CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY,

231.582.0049

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store.

LD • BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE,

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room— fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS,

231.535.2999

Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

CHARLEVOIX/CENTRAL LAKE/ ELLSWORTH/EAST JORDAN

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and composed salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E.

231.437.3612

231.526.6201

Gaylord

PETOSKEY/HARBOR SPRINGS/ Traverse City CROSS VILLAGE/PELLSTON/ BAY HARBOR/MACKINAC ISLAND

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY,

231.753.2221

Cadillac

The Bistro Saucer-sized homemade pancakes, comfort food. BL • $ 1900 US 31., PETOSKEY, 231.347.5583 Chandler’s Art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981 City Park Grill Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101

MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900

Vernales Restaurant Chop house, sports bar and wine bar with patio dining. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3018 M119, HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4777

Villa Ristorante Italiano Authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and hand-rolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

Vintage Chophouse/Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$

INN AT BAY HARBOR RENAISSANCE LAKE MICHIGAN GOLF RESORT, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

The Cantina Authentic Mexican in Van Pelt Alley behind Bridge Street. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 VAN PELT PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. LD • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD •

BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

Kelsey B’s Lakeside Food & Spirits Dine on burgers, steaks and fish and soak up the Lake Charlevoix views.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 230 FERRY AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2960

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '18

45

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Jeffrey Watts Financial BenjaminAdvisor Watts Jeffrey Watts Director Financial Advisor ManagingManaging Director – Investment Officer– Investment Officer 5575 Hwy Ste 5575 10850HwyESteTraverse 10850 E Traverse Hwy Ste 5575 10850 E Traverse Traverse City, MI 49684 Traverse City, MI 49684 10850 E Traverse Hwy Ste 5575 Direct: (231)Traverse 946-1630City, MI 49684 jeffrey.watts@wellsfargoadvisors.com Direct: (231) 946-1630 231-946-1630 Traverse City, MI 49684 jeffrey.watts@wellsfargoadvisors.com Ben.Watts@wellsfargoadvisors.com 231-946-1630 Ben.Watts@wellsfargoadvisors.com

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10850 E Traverse Hwy Ste 5575 Traverse City, MI 49684 231-946-1630 Ben.Watts@wellsfargoadvisors.co

Investment and Insurance Products: u NOT FDIC Insured u NO Bank Guarantee u MAY Lose Value Wells Fargo Advisors is a trade name used by Wells Fargo Clearing Services, LLC, Member SIPC, a registered broker-dealer and non-bank affiliate of Wells Fargo & Company. © 2016 Wells Fargo Clearing Services, LLC. All rights reserved.

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nd Insurance Products: u NOT FDIC Insured u NO Bank Guarantee u MAY Lose Value Investment u NOSIPC, u MAYand nd Insurance NOT FDIC Insured Bank Guarantee Lose Value affiliate trade name usedProducts:

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0318-02998 46 MyNorth.com

restaurant guide | dining

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E. JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

Knot Just a Bar

Fish and burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019

BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE,

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with fromscratch farmer food. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE

CITY, 922.9515

Bubba’s Burgers, chimis, salads, tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E.

Scovie’s Gourmet Deli & Bake Shop Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistrostyle comfort food. LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX,

231.334.3944

FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

231.237.7827

Leland Lodge Bogeys— BLD • BAR • $-$$ 565 PEARL ST., LELAND,

The Cooks’ House Sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-$$$ 115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel.

Little Traverse Inn Old World gastro pub highlights the food and beer of the British Isles. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 149 E.

231.256.9848

231.946.8700

Firefly Sushi, steaks and burgers. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST.,

LD • BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY. 231. 228.2560

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D •

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR •

The Franklin Flatbread, salads, lamb and beef burgers, bistro dinners. LD • BAR • $-$$ 160 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

BAR • $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

$ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on scratch regional cuisine. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413 N.

ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

ELK RAPIDS

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively sounds of Zydeco, jazz and blues. LD • BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530

LEELANAU

Siren Hall Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, fresh-off-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 151

RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231. 264.6062

North Country Grill & Pub (Whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) , fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR •

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1228

Georgina’s Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 236 E. FRONT

$$ 420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1555

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY,

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, soups, salads and quiche. BL • $ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N.

GRAND TRAVERSE Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas,

Harvest Hip Asian and Latin influenced menu. LD • BAR • $

231.228.6692

great beer listCity and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., Mackinaw SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

Mackinaw City

Tucker’s of Northport Bistro-style casual fine dining.

Meet. Dine. Bowl. LD • BAR • $-$$ 116 WAUKAZOO, NORTH-

Petoskey

231.943.2727

Frenchies Famous Three tables and carryout, offers superb hot sandwiches and espresso drinks. BL • $ 619 RANDOLPH ST.,

PORT, 231.386.1061

PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437

127 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.486.6037

Little Bohemia Famous Olive Burger featured on Food Network. Full menu. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 540 W. FRONT ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.6925

Mackinaw Brewing Co. House-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty char-burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR •

Petoskey

$$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100

Northport Gaylord

Leland Empire Frankfort

Suttons Bay Glen Arbor Cedar Traverse City

LEELANAU COUNTY Manistee

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Gaylord

Frankfort

Manistee

Old Mission Acme Traverse City

231.943.2793

Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST.,

Interlochen

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

Cadillac

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steak and burger house. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832

OLD MISSION PENINSULA

Cadillac

Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole.

BLD • BAR • $-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

Boathouse Restaurant Casually elegant spot with great steaks, seafood, large local wine selection. Sunday brunch. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 14039 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4030

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. LD • BAR • $$

The Bluebird Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the offseason. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND,

13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

Boone Dock’s Shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858

TRAVERSE CITY—DOWNTOWN

231.256.9081

MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444

Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers.

Alliance James Beard-nominee Pete Peterson teams with up-and-coming chef James Bloomfield at this Warehouse District bistro. LD • BAR • $-$$ 144 HALL ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.642.5545

Big Cat Brewing Company Great comfort food including pot roast, perch and Southern-fried chicken, but now with house-brewed beer. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 8699 S. GOOD HARBOR

Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MCFAR-

Bay Bread Company Artisan breads, sandwiches, salads, soups. BLD • $ 601 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.8022

Garage Bar & Grill BBQ & bar eats. LD • BAR • $-$$ 108 S

Bistro Fou Fou Chef Guillaume Hazaël-Massieux also of La Bécasse in Maple City brings his country French cooking downtown. LD • $$-$$$ 118 CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.6583

LANE, MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900 WAUKAZOO ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386. 5511

Joe’s Friendly Tavern Whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$ 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

Blue Heron 2 Local ingredients used in homemade bread and soup and other scratch dishes like roasted vegetable breakfast bowl. BL • $ 408 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.2583

231.941.7325

Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD • $-$$$ 237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9645

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY,

231.941.7632

LD • BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688

TR., CEDAR, 231.228.2282

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh-sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips A new location for ultrafresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE

CITY, 231.933.8700

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT STREET,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.943.2500

The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE

CITY, 231.929.0900

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '18

47

dining | restaurant guide

The Home of Pepper Mill Spices

If you have a kitchen, get in here!

Baby Bundt Towers Great for Parties!

Warehouse Kitchen & Cork Seasonally inspired farmto-fork restaurant inside Hotel Indigo. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 263

WEST GRANDVIEW PARKWAY, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0500

Baskets & Platters also available

Great Business Gift Ideas

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. D • BAR • $$$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000

McGee’s No. 72 Gourmet burgers, fries, pizza and other sophisticated bar food. D • BAR • $$ 4341 M72 E., TRAVERSE

CITY, 231.421.8800

Kitchen & Pantry Accessories Decor, Gifts, Gift Baskets

Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31,

Famous custom blended seasonings of the highest quality pepper and spices.

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

Personal and Business Gifts!

Smoke and Porter Public House A new American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY,

Make your shopping tastefully simple!

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,

The House of Good Taste!

Downtown Alden •Downtown Open 7 days, Alden 10am-5pm May thru Dec Open 7(231) days, 10am-5pm, May thru Dec 331-4711 • (800) 226-5481 Visit us(213) all year long at www.aldenmillhouse.com 331-4711 • (800) 226-5481

Visit us all year long at www.aldenmillhouse.com

231.642.5020

Sandwiches, Soups & Salads Free Wi Fi | 231-922-8022 Shop Local - Bring Fresh 601 Randolph St. • Traverse City www.baybreadco.com

231.534.8888

Thai Café Eat in or take out authentic Thai cuisine in a cafe atmosphere. LD • $-$$ 1219 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1303

The Soup Cup, a MicroSouperie Homemade soups, grilled cheese, Belgian fries. L • $ 718 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.7687

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.946.3991

Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 new Common Good Bakery Handmade pastries, bread, croissants, breakfasts, soups, sandwiches.. BL • $ 537 W 14TH

ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8002

The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted woodfired flatbreads and flavorful house brews. LD • BAR • $-$$

642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

new Raduno Neighborhood deli featuring homemade pasta,

sausages, charcuterie and salads. LD • $-$$ 545 E EIGHTH ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY 231.421.118

Sauce at Incredible Mo’s Artisan pizza, pasta, salad in a kid-friendly atmosphere. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1355 SILVER LAKE

CROSSINGS BLVD, GRAWN, 231.944.1355

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST

Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad.

Inspire and delight loved ones with the perfect holiday gift.

LD • BAR • $$ 13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Just $24 for an entire year of Northern Michigan.

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR

mynorth.com/gift

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • $$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960

Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4648

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local table | dining

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons.

Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$

717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY,

231.929.8989

Tuscan Bistro Great patio, marina delivery and Mickey Cannon’s fresh bistro eats with Cajun and Italian influences.

BLD • BAR • $-$$ 12930 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7795

POORROCK ABBEY

TRADITIONAL SOURDOUGH FRUITCAKE

new West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted BENZIE / MANISTEE / WEXFORD chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE

CITY, 231.943.2922

Mackinaw City

Petoskey

Gaylord

Frankfort Beulah Benzonia

In a monastery tucked on the Lake Superior shore of the Keweenaw Peninsula, the monks of the Holy Transfiguration Skete, Society of Saint John, lead a life devoted to simplicity, prayer and the arts. At their tiny store, Jampot, located nearby in Eagle Harbor, they also make enlightened foragedberry preserves and organic fruitcakes, marketed under the label Poorrock Abbey. If the spirit of the season is baked into this traditional sourdough fruitcake—know that it is drenched (the monks say “moistened”) with a seasonal spirit, aka rum. Your holiday guests will sing its praises. The monks retreat behind closed doors come October, but you can order their fruitcake and preserves online year-round at poorrockabbey.com.

Traverse City

Onekama Manistee

Cadillac

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ ONEKAMA/BEULAH

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails). BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114

Lucky Dog Bar & Grill Fire-grilled brats, tacos, burgers, smoked wings, craft beer, wine, liquor. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S.

BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499

Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants!

Go to MyNorth.com/restaurants

DAVE WEIDNER

Yellow Dog Café Fabulous coffee, sandwiches, baked goods. LD $ 4850 MAIN ST, ONEKAMA, 231.508.5008

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '18

49

Put some CGT under your tree.

Every sip is like a gift.

For any guest, for any gathering, for any reason this holiday season... we have a wine that’ll pair just perfectly. Uncork a bottle of CGT. And Uncork Your North.™ Open daily, year round • Wine Tasting & Tours

8 miles North of Traverse City • 12239 Center Rd. (M37) • (800) 283.0247 TASTING

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TOURS

VINEYARDS

THE INN

beer | drinks

MYNORTH ON TAP

BIÈRE DE MAC 49 FATHOMS Lactose sugar amps up the cocoa effect in this subtly sweet and creamy milk stout.

MONKEYFIST BREWING WOOKALAR STOUT Roasty, toasty dark malts orbit oatmeal smoothness in this burly Irish-style stout.

ORE DOCK PORTER The deft brewmeisters at Marquette’s Ore Dock embrace the darkness with a complex, classically styled porter that screams coffee and bittersweet chocolate.

DARK BEERS

BY TIM TEBEAU

Needing fortitude against those knife blade breezes off the big lake, we turn to beer’s dark side for our December drinking imperative. Stouts and porters, colored black from the use of dark roasted malts and thickly textural on account of oatmeal or lactose sugar, bleed the line between food and beverage. While there is no official distinction between stouts and porters, their use of roasted barley, malted or not, spins off chocolate, roasted coffee bean, smoke, vanilla and dried fruit notes. Taprooms will often drive dark beers with nitrogen instead of CO2, which imparts a dangerously crushable creaminess.

Proprietary styles of stout and porter can run the spectrum from slightly sweet and medium-bodied to intensely bitter and chewable. Any stout or porter carrying the “Imperial” designation means that you’ll need to call an Uber as alcohol by volume can spike from 8-11%. Sip these dark beers fireside or in the company of chipotle-laced chili or chocolate cake.

PETOSKEY BREWING MORNING FOG MOCHAJAVA STOUT Colored like vintage motor oil in the glass, Mochajava is surprisingly lithe and easy to drink. Nitrogen tapped for a creamy head.

ST. AMBROSE COLLUSION BROWN ALE St. Ambrose’s Collusion is a heavy-weight brown ale with porter soul. Hints of burnt sugar are offset with bitter coffee notes.

DAVE WEIDNER

STORMCLOUD BREWING THE DISAPPEARER PORTER So-called because of its sly smoothness, Brian Confer’s Anglo-Belgian Porter has the roasty hallmarks of a British pub draught amplified with Belgian yeast.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '18

51

TA S T E O F C H R I S T M A S From our Family to yours.... visit us to sample all of the offerings we have to make your holiday meal extra special.

F R I D A Y, D E C E M B E R 7, 1 - 5 P M S AT U R D A Y, D E C E M B E R 8 , 1 1 - 4 P M High Quality Award Winning USDA Inspected Smoked Meats and Processing.

Fresh Cuts Daily. Beef, Pork, Poultry and more. Packaged the way you like it!

420 East Prosper Rd., Falmouth • 231-826-3333 • ebelsgeneralstore.com

h . h . h .

S T C S P E A K E A S Y . C OM

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Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation

Publication Title: Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine.

2. Publication Number: 10713719. 3. Filing Date: 9/28/18.

4. Issue Frequency: monthly. 5. Number of issues published annually: 12. 6. Annual subscription price: $24.00. 7. Complete mailing address of known office of publication (not printer): 125 Park St, suite 155, Traverse City, Grand Traverse County, MI 49684. Contact Person: Jodi Simpson. Telephone: 231941-5976. 8. Complete mailing address of headquarters or general business office of publisher (not printer): same 9. Full names and complete mailing addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Deborah Wyatt Fellows, same as above. Editor: Emily Tyra, same as above. Managing Editor: Elizabeth Edwards, same as above. 10. Owner: Prism Publications, Inc, same as above, Deborah Wyatt Fellows, same as above. 11. Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders owning or holding 1% or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other securities: none. 12.

Tax Status has not changed during preceding 12 months. 13.

Publication Title: Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine 14.

Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: 10/18. 15. Extent and nature of circulation, Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12 months: a. Total number of copies (net press run): 21,540. b. Paid circulation: (1) mailed outside-county paid subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541. (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof copies and exchange copies): 11,303. (2) Mailed in-county paid subscriptions stated on Form 3541 (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof copies and exchange copies): 2,554. (3) Paid distribution outside the mails including sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales, and other paid distribution outside USPS: 2,363. (4) Paid distribution by other classes of mail through the USPS: 10. c. Total paid distribution [sum of 15b. (1), (2), (3), and (4)]: 16,474. d. Free or nominal rate distribution (by mail and outside the mail) (1) Outside-County copies included on PS Form 3541: 0. (2) In-County copies included on PS Form 3541: 250. (3) Copies mailed at other classes through the USPS: 0. (4) Free or nominal rate distribution outside the mail (carriers and other means): 0. e. Total free or nominal rate distribution (sum of 15d (1), (2), (3) and (4)): 250. f. Total distribution (sum of 15c and 15e): 16,474. g. Copies not distributed: 2,568. h. Total (sum of 15f and g): 19,042. i. Percent paid (15c/15f x 100): 98.8%. No. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: a. Total number of copies (net press run): 20,296. b. Paid circulation: (1) Mailed outside-county paid subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541. (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof and exchange copies): 12,202. (2) Mailed in-county paid subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541 (Include paid distribution above nominal rate, advertiser’s proof and exchange copies): 2,758. (3) Paid distribution outside the mails including sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales, and other paid distribution outside USPS: 2,553. (4) Paid distribution by other classes of mail through the USPS: 0. c. Total paid distribution [sum of 15b.

(1), (2), (3), and (4)]: 17,513. d. Free or nominal rate distribution (by mail and outside the mail) (1) Free or nominal rate outside-county copies included on PS Form 3541: 0. (2) Free or nominal rate in-county copies included on PS Form 3541: 250. (3) Free or nominal rate copies mailed at other classes through the USPS: 0. (4) Free or nominal rate distribution outside the mail (carriers or other means): 250. e. Total free or nominal rate distribution (sum of 15d (1), (2), (3) and (4): 250. f. Total distribution (sum of 15c and 15e): 17,763. g. Copies not distributed: 2,769. h. Total (sum of 15f and g): 20,532. i. Percent paid (15c/15f x 100): 98.5%. 16. Electronic Copy Circulation: not applicable 171. Publication of Statement of Ownership will be printed in the 12/18 issue of this publication.

18. Signature and Title of Editor, Publisher, Business Manager, or Owner: Deborah W. Fellows. Date: 9/28/18. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete.

I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties).

MICHIGAN MINERALS Copper

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TEST IT OUT IN STORE NOW! Computerized Finder • Motorized Mount 101 S. Mitchell St., Downtown Cadillac • 231.468.3241

Accurately Finds &Tracks almost 40,000 Celestial Objects

102 S. Michigan Ave., Big Rapids • 231.629.8464

www. iloveserendipity.com

223 St. Joseph

(231) 271-6033

(M22) Suttons Bay, MI

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | DEC '18

53

Traverse City Lumber 5700 US 31 S Grawn, MI 49637 231.943.7000

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1860 Surfside Drive, Manistee

123 ft of LAKE MICHIGAN views from practically every room in this wonderful 4-BR, 2-BA, 2-level home with a private stairway to the SANDY BEACH. Huge secluded lot with lush landscaping, sprawling decking on both sides of the home, patio off the walk-out lower level and a massive lawn for the kids and grandkids. The 4-car attached garage offers all kinds of storage; plus there’s much more parking for all your guests. Enormous living room on main floor and family room in lower level each have their own gas fireplace and phenomenal views of LK MI from the massive windows on each level. New roof in 2018. Central air too. Large eat-in kitchen and a separate dining room allow a nice flow for entertaining. This is your new Party Central ... or a quiet, private haven, if you prefer. (56 steps to the beach.) $549,900

Quietly collected by women who know.

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Call/Text Suzanne Riley 231.620.9561

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115 W. Main Street | Harbor Springs, MI | 231.526.7500 westmainpearls.com | ElizabethBlair.com Jewelers of America Cultured Pearl Association of America american Gem Society

cross-country ski | outdoors

HAVE A BREW-SKI Wrap up a cross-country ski day with a well-earned pint.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ANDREW VANDRIE

Cross-country skiing is an energizing way to enjoy the snowdrifts and arctic climes of a Michigan January. A favorite spot for a day trip is Petoskey State Park, just off M119, northeast of Petoskey. Look forward to wide, groomed trails that stretch the entirety of the property with outlets to pristine views of Little Traverse Bay. If the snow cover is ample, skiers also have the option to link up on the Little Traverse Wheelway at the southern tier of the park and then work back northward for a refreshing detour: a bite and a pint. Glide into Petoskey Brewing Co. (PETOSKEYBREWING.COM) for your pick of a dozen-plus seasonal offerings on tap and fantastic burgers.

stride, glide” motion, also known as the “diagonal stride” with the arms and legs moving in tandem as you propel along. The first step is the shuffle, moving forward with skis parallel to one another and establishing a rhythm. Next is to integrate a “kick,” which is the push off that generates the momentum. Finally, progressively transfer more weight to the ski that is sliding to experience the “glide” of the process. Keep knees slightly bent, lean forward and work on creating a rhythm that also synchronizes with the poles moving opposite to one another, similar to jogging. It will take some practice to establish coordination—so keep at it.

WHAT’S YOUR SKI STYLE?

GEAR UP

There are two methods of cross-country skiing—skate and classic. Skate utilizes a lateral push movement, similar to ice-skating, and requires more effort and coordination.

Classic is generally a better introduction to the sport as the participant takes advantage of plodding in set grooves (if on a groomed trail). The method for classic style is a “kick,

Petoskey’s Banhof Sport (bahnhof.com) and Traverse City’s Brick Wheels (brickwheels.com) offer daily ski rentals.

For attire: layering is key with synthetic base layer, possible mid-layer and a wind-blocking shell over top.

Andrew VanDrie writes from Traverse City. vandrian@umich.edu.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

DEC ’18

55

love of the land

Canyon Falls, Alberta PHOTO COURTESY GREG KRETOVIC

A raw winter moment deep in the Sturgeon River Gorge Wilderness, carved by falls and rapids.

It is part of a rugged 14,729-acre tract within the Upper Peninsula Ottawa National Forest. Greg Kretovic recently published Waterfalls of Michigan, a comprehensive guidebook covering over 130 of our most beautiful and impressive falls. WATERFALLSOFMICHIGAN.COM

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H o y l i p d p ays a H

Tis’ the season to find your perfect home Up North.

WALLYKIDD.COM 231-838-2700

wkidd@kiddleavy.com

325 EAST LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY