Photographing East Anglia

Page 1

A PHOTO-LOCATION AND VISITOR GUIDEBOOK

P H O TO G R A P H I N G

EAST ANGLIA NORFOLK • SUFFOLK • NORTH ESSEX • CAMBRIDGESHIRE JUSTIN MINNS



A PHOTO-LOCATION AND VISITOR GUIDEBOOK

P H O TO G R A P H I N G

EAST ANGLIA NORFOLK • SUFFOLK • NORTH ESSEX • CAMBRIDGESHIRE JUSTIN MINNS


PHOTOGRAPHING EAST ANGLIA BY JUSTIN MINNS

First published in the United Kingdom in 2019 by fotoVUE. www.fotovue.com

Copyright © fotoVUE Limited 2019. Text and Photography: Copyright © Justin Minns 2019. Foreword Copyright © Justin Minns 2019. Justin Minns has asserted his right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as the author of this work. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system without the written permission of the publisher, except for the use of brief quotations in a book review. TRADEMARKS: fotoVUE and the fotoVUE wordmark are the registered trademarks of fotoVUE Ltd. Edited by Susie Ryder. Design and layout by Ryder Design – www.ryderdesign.studio Book project managed by Mick Ryan. All maps within this publication were produced by Don Williams of Bute Cartographics. Map location overlay and graphics by Mick Ryan. Maps contain Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2016. A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-1-9160145-0-3 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 The author, publisher and others involved in the design and publication of this guide book accept no responsibility for any loss or damage users may suffer as a result of using this book. Users of this book are responsible for their own safety and use the information herein at their own risk. Users should always be aware of weather forecasts, conditions, time of day and their own ability before venturing out. Front cover: St Benet’s Mill from Thurne early on a calm winter’s morning (page 192). Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 47mm, ISO 100, 1/2s at f/16. LEE polariser, tripod. Dec. Rear cover left: Beach huts in the dunes in winter light, Southwold (page 246). Canon 5D II, 16–35mm at 18mm, ISO 100, 1/25s at f/16. LEE 0.9 hard ND grad, tripod. Dec. Rear cover right: Hedgehog Cottage, Lavenham (page 392). Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 55mm, ISO 100, 1/250s at f/8. Apr. Opposite: A country lane in the mist, near Flatford (page 366). Canon 7D, 17–55mm at 55mm, ISO 100, 1/200s at f/8. LEE 0.6 soft ND grad, tripod. Sep. Printed and bound in Europe by Latitude Press Ltd.


There is nothing ugly; I never saw an ugly thing in my life: for let the form of an object be what it may – light, shade, and perspective will always make it beautiful. John Constable


CONTENTS

Locations and map overview ������������ 6 Acknowledgements ������������������������������� 8 Foreword by David Noton ��������������� 12 Introduction �������������������������������������������� 14 Getting to and around East Anglia ����������������������������������������������� 18 Where to stay, eat and drink ��������� 20 East Anglia weather and seasonal highlights ����������������������������� 24 East Anglia climate ����������������������������� 28 Using this guidebook to get the best images ������������������������������������ 30 Camera, lenses and captions ��������� 32 Classic East Anglia locations ���������� 34 Access and behaviour ������������������������ 38

4

CONTENTS

NORTH NORFOLK

THE BROADS & EAST NORFOLK COAST

Introduction ����������������������������������������� 42 Area Map ������������������������������������������������ 44

Introduction �������������������������������������� 148 Area Map ��������������������������������������������� 149

1 Snettisham ������������������������������������ 48 2 Old Hunstanton ��������������������������� 52 3 Thornham �������������������������������������� 60 4 Brancaster Beach & Staithe ���� 66 5 Burnham Overy Staithe ����������� 72 6 Holkham Beach ��������������������������� 76 7 Wells-next-the-Sea ��������������������� 80 8 Stiffkey �������������������������������������������� 86 9 Blakeney ����������������������������������������� 90 10 Cley next the Sea ����������������������� 94 11 The Poppy Line ���������������������������� 98 12 Sheringham ������������������������������� 102 13 Felbrigg Estate �������������������������� 106 14 Cromer ����������������������������������������� 112 15 Overstrand ���������������������������������� 118 16 Blickling Estate �������������������������� 122 17 Bintree Mill ��������������������������������� 128 18 Roydon Common �������������������� 132 19 Norfolk Tulip Fields ������������������ 136

1 Happisburgh ������������������������������ 2 Sea Palling ���������������������������������� 3 Hickling Broad Boathouses �������������������������������� 4 Horsey Windpump & Brograve Mill ������������������������������ 5 West Somerton ������������������������ 6 East Somerton Church ���������� 7 Winterton-on-Sea ������������������� 8 Caister-on-Sea �������������������������� 9 Ormesby Little Broad ������������� 10 Thurne ������������������������������������������ 11 St Benet’s Abbey ��������������������� 12 Turf Fen Drainage Mill ����������� 13 Norwich ���������������������������������������� ››› The Broads by Boat ���������������� 14 Halvergate Marshes ��������������� 15 Berney Arms Windmill ����������� 16 Herringfleet Drainage Mill ���

152 158 162 166 174 178 180 184 188 192 200 202 208 216 218 224 230


THE SUFFOLK COAST

THE ESSEX & SUFFOLK BORDER

CAMBRIDGESHIRE & THE BRECKS

Introduction �������������������������������������� 238 Area Map ��������������������������������������������� 239

Introduction �������������������������������������� 330 Area Map ��������������������������������������������� 332

Introduction �������������������������������������� 420 Area Map ��������������������������������������������� 422

1 Covehithe ������������������������������������ 2 Southwold ����������������������������������� 3 Walberswick ������������������������������� 4 Dunwich Heath ������������������������ 5 Sizewell ����������������������������������������� 6 Framlingham Castle ��������������� 7 Saxtead Green Windmill ������ 8 Helmingham Hall �������������������� 9 Snape Maltings ������������������������ 10 Iken ������������������������������������������������ 11 Aldeburgh ����������������������������������� 12 Orford & Orford Ness ������������� 13 Woodbridge Tide Mill & Sutton Hoo ���������������������������� 14 Shingle Street ���������������������������� 15 Bawdsey ��������������������������������������

1 Cobbold’s Point ������������������������ 2 Landguard Point ���������������������� 3 Dovercourt Lighthouse ��������� 4 Pin Mill ������������������������������������������ 5 Freston Tower & The Orwell Bridge �������������������� 6 Holbrook Creek ������������������������� 7 Flatford ����������������������������������������� ››› The Landscape Masters �������� 8 Sudbury Water Meadows ���� 9 Suffolk Wool Towns ���������������� Kersey �������������������������������������������� Lavenham ����������������������������������� Cavendish ����������������������������������� 10 Brightlingsea ����������������������������� 11 Mersea Island ��������������������������� 12 Tollesbury ������������������������������������

1 Houghton Mill ��������������������������� 2 Mullard Observatory �������������� 3 Cambridge ���������������������������������� 4 Wicken Fen ��������������������������������� 5 Stretham Old Engine ������������� 6 Ely ��������������������������������������������������� 7 Thetford Forest ������������������������� 8 Ickworth House ������������������������

242 246 256 260 268 272 276 280 286 290 296 304 312 318 324

336 338 344 350 356 362 366 376 378 388 390 392 394 398 402 410

426 432 436 446 458 462 466 478

FEATURE PAGES Historic Buildings, Gardens & Stately Homes ������������������������������������ Shows & Events ���������������������������������� Nature Reserves ��������������������������������� Walks ������������������������������������������������������� Coastal Photography ���������������������� Using Filters ����������������������������������������� Long Exposures ���������������������������������� About the Author ������������������������������ About fotoVUE �����������������������������������

CONTENTS

486 492 496 502 506 514 518 524 526

5


EAST ANGLIA – LOCATIONS AND MAP OVERVIEW NORTH NORFOLK

THE SUFFOLK COAST

1 Snettisham ����������������������������������������������������������������������� 48 2 Old Hunstanton �������������������������������������������������������������������� 52 3 Thornham ������������������������������������������������������������������������� 60 4 Brancaster Beach & Staithe ��������������������������������������� 66 5 Burnham Overy Staithe ���������������������������������������������� 72 6 Holkham Beach �������������������������������������������������������������������� 76 7 Wells-next-the-Sea �������������������������������������������������������� 80 8 Stiffkey �������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 86 9 Blakeney ����������������������������������������������������������������������������� 90 10 Cley next the Sea ���������������������������������������������������������������� 94 11 The Poppy Line ��������������������������������������������������������������� 98 12 Sheringham ������������������������������������������������������������������������ 102 13 Felbrigg Estate ������������������������������������������������������������� 106 14 Cromer ����������������������������������������������������������������������������� 112 15 Overstrand ��������������������������������������������������������������������������� 118 16 Blickling Estate ������������������������������������������������������������� 122 17 Bintree Mill ��������������������������������������������������������������������� 128 18 Roydon Common ������������������������������������������������������������� 132 19 Norfolk Tulip Fields ����������������������������������������������������������� 136

1 Covehithe ����������������������������������������������������������������������� 242 2 Southwold ���������������������������������������������������������������������� 246 3 Walberswick ������������������������������������������������������������������� 256 4 Dunwich Heath ����������������������������������������������������������������� 260 5 Sizewell ���������������������������������������������������������������������������� 268 6 Framlingham Castle �������������������������������������������������������� 272 7 Saxtead Green Windmill ����������������������������������������������� 276 8 Helmingham Hall ������������������������������������������������������� 280 9 Snape Maltings ������������������������������������������������������������ 286 10 Iken ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 290 11 Aldeburgh ���������������������������������������������������������������������������� 296 12 Orford & Orford Ness ������������������������������������������������ 304 13 Woodbridge Tide Mill & Sutton Hoo ����������������� 312 14 Shingle Street ��������������������������������������������������������������������� 318 15 Bawdsey ������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 324

THE BROADS & EAST NORFOLK COAST 1 Happisburgh ����������������������������������������������������������������� 152 2 Sea Palling ���������������������������������������������������������������������� 158 3 Hickling Broad Boathouses ������������������������������������������ 162 4 Horsey Windpump & Brograve Mill �������������������� 166 5 West Somerton ������������������������������������������������������������ 174 6 East Somerton Church ��������������������������������������������� 178 7 Winterton-on-Sea ������������������������������������������������������������ 180 8 Caister-on-Sea ������������������������������������������������������������������� 184 9 Ormesby Little Broad ������������������������������������������������ 188 10 Thurne ����������������������������������������������������������������������������� 192 11 St Benet’s Abbey �������������������������������������������������������� 200 12 Turf Fen Drainage Mill ���������������������������������������������� 202 13 Norwich ��������������������������������������������������������������������������� 208 ››› The Broads by Boat ��������������������������������������������������������� 216 14 Halvergate Marshes �������������������������������������������������������� 218 15 Berney Arms Windmill ���������������������������������������������������� 224 16 Herringfleet Drainage Mill �������������������������������������������� 230

A15

THE ESSEX & SUFFOLK BORDER 1 Cobbold’s Point ����������������������������������������������������������� 336 2 Landguard Point ��������������������������������������������������������������� 338 3 Dovercourt Lighthouse ��������������������������������������������� 344 4 Pin Mill ����������������������������������������������������������������������������� 350 5 Freston Tower & The Orwell Bridge �������������������������� 356 6 Holbrook Creek ������������������������������������������������������������������ 362 7 Flatford ���������������������������������������������������������������������������� 366 ››› The Landscape Masters ������������������������������������������������ 376 8 Sudbury Water Meadows ��������������������������������������� 378 9 Suffolk Wool Towns ���������������������������������������������������� 388 Kersey ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 390 Lavenham ���������������������������������������������������������������������������� 392 Cavendish ���������������������������������������������������������������������������� 394 10 Brightlingsea ����������������������������������������������������������������� 398 11 Mersea Island ��������������������������������������������������������������� 402 12 Tollesbury ����������������������������������������������������������������������� 410

CAMBRIDGESHIRE & THE BRECKS 1 Houghton Mill �������������������������������������������������������������� 426 2 Mullard Observatory ������������������������������������������������� 432 3 Cambridge ��������������������������������������������������������������������� 436 4 Wicken Fen ��������������������������������������������������������������������� 446 5 Stretham Old Engine ������������������������������������������������ 458 6 Ely �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 462 7 Thetford Forest ������������������������������������������������������������ 466 8 Ickworth House ����������������������������������������������������������� 478

16

A6

10 9

M1 8 7

2

3

1

6

EAST ANGLIA – LOCATIONS AND MAP OVERVIEW


Horncastle

A52

A1028

Spilsby Woodhall Spa A155

A158

Skegness

A52

R

A16

am it h

W

A17

THE WASH

A1121 A52

Boston

A151

A151

Spalding

King’s Lynn

18 A1065

ne

R Ne

A1139

Downham Market

A47

A47 A605

17

A1101

A141 Chatteris

15

A1(M)

Huntingdon

24

e

a

21

26

1

R Gr

A14

A1

Newmarket

28

A1198

33

3

12

2

St Albans

1

6 5 4

22

Hertford

A10

Potters Bar 23 24 M25

A1

5

A40 2 1

A414 A12

4

29

M25

LONDON A205 A24

M25 9 Leatherhead

12

Brentwood

A10 A12

A316

A23

30

55

A232

Croydon

3

M25 4

5

Chatham A228 3

M20 M26

2

2a

3

4

4

Maidstone

n

11 Aldeburgh

10

13

12 Orford Ness

Woodbridge

14 A14 60

1

15

2 Felixstowe 3 Harwich The Naze Frinton-on-Sea

Clacton-on-Sea

West Mersea

Burnham-on-Crouch Foulness Point 0

Sheerness A249

M2

7 8

miles

Southend-on-Sea Thames Estuary Herne Bay

6

7

Sturry A2

Margate A299

Whitstable

5

M20

5 6

5 A1094

9

be

5 4 6

7

Isle of Sheppey Eastchurch

Rochester

2

4

Saxmundham

Southminster

Grain

1

de

Southwold

N

Canvey Island

Tilbury

A2 2 Gravesend

Al

58

57

56

A12 A137

2 3

A414

South Woodham Ferrers A130 Billericay Rayleigh A127

A13

31

A20

17

Basildon

30

12

Maldon

18

15

28

A406

1

20 19

Chelmsford

7

27

26

4 2

M4

25

A1071

11

Epping

6

A12

53

1

A144

A1120

Wickham Market

Ipswich

Halstead l a ck wa te

A1060

A145

Framlingham

A120 29 A1124 Stansted 27 Colchester Coggeshall Braintree 26 Airport 25 A120 Wivenhoe A120 Great Kelvedon 24 A133 Brightlingsea A131 A12 Dunmow 10 Witham 22

Harlow

Watford M1

Ware

A414 R Lea

3 2

21 6

8a 8

Beccles

R

A14 Claydon

A134

r tou

A1(M)

A120

Bishop’s Stortford

A602

A131

16

Halesworth

RD e

8

50 51

Hadleigh

A143 A12

Lowestoft

Harleston

A140 7 Debenham

9

Sudbury 8

v

ey en

Great Yarmouth

15

Loddon

A143

49

Lavenham A1141

14

A12

Stowmarket

A1092

A1017

47

Acle

Bungay

r

Stevenage

7

M11

A146

R Wa

Caister-onSea

8

RY are

B

8

Stansted Mountfitchet

R

A507

A14

A134

Saffron Walden

13

A143

43

A143

A10

9

A505

9

Royston

42

RS

Letchworth

A505

A505

8

A1066

A1088 A134

Bury St Edmunds

A1307 Haverhill

10

Biggleswade

40

A11 Great Shelford

11

Sandy

10

36

35

A47

Diss

Ixworth

38

37

A14

Yare

A140

A11

A10

Cambridge

A1

4 A142

5

t Ouse

30 14 13

A428 St Neots

A11

6 7

Norwich

Attleborough

Thetford

4 5

A149

11 10 9

su m

7

Mildenhall

A1123

St Ives

23

A1101

6 Ely

14 18

R

en

NATIONAL PARK

3

12

A11

The Brecks

Brandon

A142

A141

A1075

Little Ouse

Littleport

re

Wymondham

A1065

Mundford

16

W

Bu

Hoveton

A47

Swaffham

Stoke A134 Ferry

A10

A1067

Dereham A47

Fincham

A1122

March

Peterborough

Castle Acre

A47

R

A140

17

R

Crowland

A15

A47

Wisbech

Aylsham

THE BROADS

North Walsham 1 2 A149 Stalham

16

A148

A149

A1101

Fakenham

Dersingham

19 A16

9 10 Sheringham Cromer 14 11 12 15 13 Holt A148

8

Heacham

1 Holbeach A17

6 7

A149 Burnham Market

Hunstanton 2

A16

A52

5

4

3

Blakeney Wellsnext-the-Sea Point

R

Tattershall

A153

5

3

A16 Alford

A153 A158

A28 Stour t

ea Gr

Canterbury

North Foreland Broadstairs

A256

Ramsgate Sandwich

10


FOREWORD Foreword by David Noton Landscape photography is a life-enriching experience. Anyone who has headed out in the darkness before dawn, laden with camera bag and tripod to stand on a lonely shore watching the first light of the day paint the world, knows the joy of it. And the satisfaction of capturing an image that does justice to the majesty of Mother Nature is the icing on a cake that soon becomes completely addictive. But it is an activity not without its frustrations, because the name of the game is being in the right place, at the right time, and that is a lot more difficult to achieve than it sounds. For any landscape photographer the first decision they have to take is where to go, and when. In my experience of almost 40 years of photographic forays, making that call is actually the hardest part of the whole photographic process. Here, in this excellent photographer’s guidebook to East Anglia by Justin Minns, help is at hand. The predominantly flat landscapes of East Anglia are not easy to photograph, but that lack of elevation allows the very first and last light of day to linger long on the beguiling land and seascapes of the region. It is the very characteristic the accomplished Justin Minns has turned to his advantage as he has photographically investigated the spirit of the region over many years of dawn and dusk patrols. Now, in this eminently useful, practical and above all inspirational guide we can tap into his experience and invaluable local knowledge to plan our own photographic missions in this understated yet captivating landscape. I am sure his advice, and the inspiration of his evocative photography, will be the spur for many a reader to venture forth in search of their own creative fulfilment in East Anglia. Good luck, happy hunting, and may the light be with you.

David Noton February 2019

David Noton is a renowned landscape and travel photographer with over 32 years’ experience as a professional. His images sell all over the world, both as fine art photography and commercially in advertising and publishing, and his clients include Canon, the National Trust, Royal Mail, the BBC and Lonely Planet Magazine. David is also a widely published writer, author, presenter, tutor, film maker and a Canon Ambassador. He is a Fellow of the Royal Photographic Society, an official Adobe Influencer and a brand ambassador for Manfrotto. He publishes the acclaimed f11 Photography Magazine. www.davidnoton.com www.f11photographymagazine.com

Opposite: The coal barn at Thornham (page 60) at sunrise, with splashes of sea lavender on the marsh. Canon 5D IV, 16–35mm at 25mm, ISO 200, 1/2s at f/16. LEE 0.6 medium ND grad, tripod. July.

12

FOREWORD





WHERE TO STAY, EAT AND DRINK Where to stay in East Anglia East Anglia is a popular destination for a quiet getaway so there is a great deal of choice if you are thinking of staying in the region. If you were looking for the most central location to use as a base, it would be the Norwich area, from which just about anywhere in East Anglia is no more than an hour’s drive away. However, due to the size of the region and the scarcity of major roads, exploring the whole region from one central location isn’t especially practical. Every area in this book is well furnished with hotels, pubs, B&Bs and holiday cottages – especially around the coast, so the better option is to stay locally and explore each area individually. Choosing accommodation within easy reach of the main routes across the area will keep driving times to a minimum, something you’ll really appreciate when setting the alarm for those sunrise shoots. Here are the best resources to help you find a bed and breakfast, hotel, pub or holiday cottage: www.visiteastofengland.com �������� www.tripadvisor.com For something a little more unusual search the listings on: www.landmarktrust.org.uk ��������� www.quirkyaccom.com For camping, there are over sixty campsites and caravan parks in the region; search the East Anglia listing on www.pitchup.com

Accommodation  • Rose & Crown, Snettisham �������������������������������������������������� PE31 7LX • Cliff Farmhouse B&B, Hunstanton ������������������������������� PE36 6HX • The Black Lion Hotel, Little Walsingham ���������������� NR22 6DB • The Hero, Burnham Overy Staithe ��������������������������������� PE31 8JE • Stone Lodge, Holt ������������������������������������������������������������������� NR25 6QH • Millhouse B&B, Overstrand ���������������������������������������������� NR27 0NB • Beechwood Hotel, North Walsham ��������������������������� NR28 0HD • Dairy Barns B&B, Hickling ��������������������������������������������������� NR12 0BE • The Boathouse, Ormesby ��������������������������������������������������� NR29 3LP • Riverside Hotel, Norwich ������������������������������������������������������ NR8 5DD • The Georgian Townhouse, Norwich ����������������������������� NR2 2RB • The Waveney House Hotel, Beccles ��������������������������� NR34 9PL • The White Horse Hotel, Eye ������������������������������������������������� IP23 7ET

20

WHERE TO STAY, EAT AND DRINK

• The White Lion, Aldeburgh ������������������������������������������������� IP15 5BJ • Bawdsey Hall, Bawdsey �������������������������������������������������������� IP12 3AS • Thatched Farm B&B, Waldringfield ����������������������������� IP12 4PW • Angel Inn, Stoke-by-Nayland ��������������������������������������������� CO6 4SA • Bridge Hotel, Brandon ������������������������������������������������������������ IP27 0AX • The Thorpe Guesthouse, Hemingford Grey ��������� PE28 9DA • Meadow Farm B&B, Cambridge ��������������������������������� CB25 9NN

Breakfast, lunch & dinner  • Thornham Deli, Thornham ������������������������������������������������ PE36 6LX • Bang In Wells, Wells-next-the-Sea ������������������������������ NR23 1AF • Lifeboat Cafe, Cromer ���������������������������������������������������������� NR27 9HE • Smallsticks Cafe, Cart Gap ������������������������������������������������ NR12 0QL • Poppylands, Horsey ���������������������������������������������������������������� NR29 4EQ • Winterton Dunes Beach Cafe, Winterton ��������������� NR29 4AJ • Scooters, Acle ������������������������������������������������������������������������������� NR13 3QJ • Harbour Cafe, Southwold ����������������������������������������������������� IP18 6TA • Gunhill Beach Kiosk, Southwold ������������������������������������� IP18 6HQ • Chopping Hill, Aldeburgh ����������������������������������������������������� IP15 5AL • The Common Room, Framlingham ������������������������������ IP13 9AH • Honey & Harvey, Melton ������������������������������������������������������ IP12 1QT • The Boathouse, Bawdsey ���������������������������������������������������� IP12 3AX • Norfolk Wildlife Trust visitor centre, Cley ���������������� NR25 7SA • The Loft – Tea by the sea, Tollesbury ��������������������������� CM9 8SE

Pubs  When it comes to pubs, you are spoilt for choice in East Anglia, from cosy traditional pubs to gastro pubs, all serving good food with much of it sourced locally, as well as the region’s excellent beers. On all the section maps, the nearest pub to a location is marked by a symbol. The following are some of my favourites, along with recommendations from the helpful people on my Facebook page. • The Rose and Crown, Snettisham ��������������������������������� PE31 7LX • Ancient Mariner, Old Hunstanton ����������������������������������� PE36 6JJ • The Lifeboat Inn, Thornham ��������������������������������������������� PE36 6LT • The Jolly Sailors, Brancaster Staithe ����������������������������� PE31 8BJ • The Three Horse Shoes, Warham �������������������������������� NR23 1NL • The Anchor Inn, Morston �������������������������������������������������� NR25 7AA • The Dun Cow, Salthouse ���������������������������������������������������� NR25 7XA • Nelson Head, Horsey ������������������������������������������������������������ NR29 4AD • Fisherman’s Return, Winterton ������������������������������������ NR29 4BN


The Ramsholt Arms by the River Deben.

• Greyhound Inn, Hickling ����������������������������������������������������� NR12 0YA • Fur and Feather, Woodbastwick ����������������������������������� NR13 6HQ • The Bell Inn, Salhouse ��������������������������������������������������������� NR13 6RW • The Lion, Thurne ���������������������������������������������������������������������� NR29 3AP • Adam and Eve, Norwich ���������������������������������������������������������� NR3 1RZ • Duke’s Head, Somerleyton ���������������������������������������������� NR32 5QR • Lord Nelson, Southwold ���������������������������������������������������������� IP18 6EJ • The Anchor, Walberswick ��������������������������������������������������� IP18 6UA • The Ship, Dunwich �������������������������������������������������������������������� IP17 3DT • Westleton Crown, Westleton �������������������������������������������� IP17 3AD • White Horse, Baddingham �������������������������������������������������� IP13 8JR • The Unruly Pig, Woodbridge ��������������������������������������������� IP12 2PU • The Ramsholt Arms, Ramsholt ���������������������������������������� IP12 3AB • The Butt and Oyster Inn, Pin Mill ������������������������������������� IP9 1JW • The Ferry Boat, Felixstowe ��������������������������������������������������� IP11 9RZ • The Swan, Lavenham ����������������������������������������������������������� CO10 9QA • The Angel Inn, Stoke-by-Nayland ��������������������������������� CO6 4SA • The Anchor Inn, Nayland ������������������������������������������������������� CO6 4JL • The Sun Inn, Dedham ������������������������������������������������������������� CO7 6DF • Peldon Rose, Peldon �������������������������������������������������������������������� CO5 7QJ • The Hopbine, Cambridge ����������������������������������������������������� CB1 1HA • The Maid’s Head, Wicken ������������������������������������������������������ CB7 5XR • The Axe and Compass, Hemingford Abbots ������� PE28 9AH

Fish and chips/seafood  • Eric’s Fish & Chips, Thornham ������������������������������������������ PE36 6LS • The Crab Hut, Brancaster Staithe �������������������������������� PE31 8BW • French’s Fish Shop, Wells-next-the-Sea ������������������ NR23 1AH • The Sheringham Trawler ���������������������������������������������������� NR26 8DT • No 1, Cromer ������������������������������������������������������������������������������ NR27 9HP • Ken’s Traditional Fish & Chips, Wroxham ������������ NR12 8DA • Solebay Fish Co., Southwold ��������������������������������������������� IP18 6ND • Golden Galleon, Aldeburgh ������������������������������������������������ IP15 5AR • Butley Orford Oysterage, Orford ������������������������������������ IP12 2LH • Fish Dish, Felixstowe ���������������������������������������������������������������� IP11 2AD • Pieseas Chippy, Harwich ���������������������������������������������������� CO12 3DA • The Company Shed, West Mersea ���������������������������������� CO5 8PA • The Viking, Cambridge ������������������������������������������������������������ CB4 1XE • The Best Plaice, Burwell ����������������������������������������������������� CB25 0DU

Overleaf: Boats beached at low tide, Burnham Overy Staithe (page 72). Canon 5D IV, 16–35mm at 16mm, ISO 100, 1/80s at f/16, (Blend of 3 bracketed exposures). tripod. Mar.

WHERE TO STAY, EAT AND DRINK

21


CLASSIC EAST ANGLIA LOCATIONS If you want to visit and photograph East Anglia’s most beautiful and classic photography locations, here, in no particular order, is my top ten. 1 Old Hunstanton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Thornham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Wells-next-the-Sea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Happisburgh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Thurne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Herringfleet Drainage Mill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Southwold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Aldeburgh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Dovercourt Lighthouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Flatford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

North Norfolk ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 52 North Norfolk ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 60 North Norfolk ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 80 The Broads & East Norfolk Coast ���������������������������������������������������� 152 The Broads & East Norfolk Coast ���������������������������������������������������� 192 The Broads & East Norfolk Coast ���������������������������������������������������� 230 The Suffolk Coast ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 246 The Suffolk Coast ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 296 The Essex & Suffolk Border ������������������������������������������������������������������������ 344 The Essex & Suffolk Border ������������������������������������������������������������������������ 366

1 OLD HUNSTANTON

P.52

2 THORNHAM

3 WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA

P.80

4 HAPPISBURGH

34

CLASSIC EAST ANGLIA LOCATIONS

P.60

P.152


5 THURNE

P.192

6 HERRINGFLEET DRAINAGE MILL P.230

7 SOUTHWOLD

P.246

8 ALDEBURGH

P.296

9 DOVERCOURT LIGHTHOUSE

P.344

10 FLATFORD

P.366

CLASSIC EAST ANGLIA LOCATIONS

35



NORTH NORFOLK

High tide floods the marshes at Thornham. Canon 5D IV, 16–35mm at 28mm, ISO 100, 1/4s at f/11. LEE polariser, 0.6 hard ND grad, tripod. Nov.


4

3

Thornham

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path

Old Hunstanton 2

Ancient Mariner Inn

Brancaster Bay

Beach

5

A149

Thornham ThornhamThornham Deli

A149

Brancaster

The Hero

Beach

Holkham

Holkham Hall

Burnham Market B1

Burnham Thorpe

7

Quay

Bang in Wells

Wells-nextthe-Sea

Th

35

Ringstead

6

Burnham Overy Staithe

Jolly Sailors

B 1153

Holme next the Sea

Holkham NNR

Scolt Head Island NNR

Staithe

Titchwell Marsh NR

Lifeboat Inn

Cliff Farmhouse B&B

Hunstanton

Beach & Staithe

Holkham Beach

Holkham Bay

Scolt Head Island

Brancaster

North Creake

Docking

Little Walsingham

Stanhoe

Sedgeford

The Black Lion Hotel

Walsingham Abbey f tif r e iv

y

B1454

Wighton

South Creake

5 B1

15

Rose & Crown

dar

Sandringham Sandringham

Sandringham

Syderstone

4

ay sW

Dersingham

B1

45

Tattersett

B

y Riv

A148

Roydon

NORTH NORFOLK

Grimston 45

3

B115

19

Middleton

and ay h s W st Pat dar a Ped olk Co rf No

B11

Gayton

Tulip Fields

A1065

Great Massingham

Roydon Common King’s Lynn NNR B1145

A10

Colkirk

Little Massingham

18

North Runcton

Hempton

Harpley

er

Castle Castle Rising Rising Castle Castle

A47

Fakenham

East Rudham

B1153

ingle

Castle Rising

L Sn

A148

1153

A149 Bab

355

Great Bircham

Ped

Snettisham Nature Reserve

B1

East Winch Castle Acre

Blackborough End

R iv

B1105

Snettisham

1

Snettisham

R

S

ke

Heacham

B1105

B11 5

5

5

A149

er N a

Pentney

r

Narborough

A47

Marham Shouldham

Swaffham

A134 A10 A1122

Fincham

Beachamwell

A1065

Whissonsett

1 Snettisham �������������������������������� 48 2 Old Hunstanton ����������������������� 52 3 Thornham ���������������������������������� 60 Mileham 4 Brancaster Beach & Staithe ������������������������������������ 66 145 B1 5 Burnham Overy Staithe � ������ Litcham72 6 Holkham Beach ����������������������� 76 7 Wells-next-the-Sea ����������������� 80 8 Stiffkey ���������������������������������������� 86 9 Blakeney ������������������������������������� 90 10 Cley next the Sea ������������������� 94 11 The Poppy Line ������������������������ 98 12 Sheringham ��������������������������� 102 13 Felbrigg 106 A47 SporleEstate ���������������������� 14 Cromer ������������������������������������� 112 15 Overstrand ������������������������������ 118 16 Blickling Estate ���������������������� 122 Necton 17 Bintree Mill ����������������������������� 128 18 Roydon Common ���������������� 132 19 Norfolk Tulip Fields �������������� 136


N

Blakeney Point Blakeney NNR

8

Blakeney

Stiffkey Stiffkey

Cley Marshes NR

10

Marsh

A149

Wiveton

Rive

Langham

Salthouse

B1

11

l r G

156

Beach Cliffs 12

Cley next Salthouse A149 the Sea Dun Cow Weybourne

Anchor Inn

Warham

hree Horseshoes

Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path

Quay

9

av

2

Cromer Sheringham Hall

Poppy Line

en

Binham

miles

0

Sheringham

Millhouse B&B

13

Bodham

Great Wood

Fellbrigg Gresham Woods

Stone Lodge

Felbrigg

Hall

Roughton

B11 10 A148

Swanton Novers

B1

9 14 B1

Little noring

35

Melton Constable

Briston

4

Erpingham Itteringham

Saxthorpe 0

Banningham 16

11 B1

Stibbard

Hindolveston B1

14

9

Great Wood

Lake

R

5

17 Brisley

Bintree

Buxton

Foxley B1145

Bawdeswell

Hevingham

54

B13

B1

Ri

ve

146

ens u m

Felthorpe

A140

A1067

B15

35

Lyng

149

Swanton Morley

rW

B1

Beetley

Cawston

Reepham

B1110

45

Brampton

Foulsham

Bintree Mill

North Elmham

B11

re

B114

Guist

r Bu

Blickling Blickling Blickling Estate Aylsham

iv e

Wood Norton

A1067

A149

A140

Aldborough

Thursford

Great Ryburgh

Overstrand Overstrand

ParkFelbrigg

Baconsthorpe Hindringham

15

Lifeboat Cafe

A148

Holt

14

Longham

Horsford

Horsham St Faith

A1270 A1270

Ringland A47

Mattishall

Yaxham A1075

Shipdham

B1

Garvestone

Hellesdon

R i v e r Tu d

13

Welborne

5

Thuxton

New Costessey

Easton

R i ver Y e ar 108

B1

Bawburgh

A47

A1074

Norwich

Barford Little Melton

Old Catton

B11

Dereham

50

Taverham

Cringleford A47


5

BURNHAM OVERY STAITHE

Burnham Overy is one of the seven medieval villages that had the Burnham name, all within a two-mile radius of one another. The name Overy literally means ‘over the river’, while the Staithe part came later, when the village centre moved downriver after the river silted up. It was on the river here at Burnham Overy Staithe that the 10-year-old Nelson, born a mile down the road at Burnham Thorpe, learned to sail a dinghy, just two years before he joined the navy. You can almost picture it in Nelson’s day, when it would have been a busy port delivering cargo to the local villages but silting of the river has reduced it to the delightfully sleepy little harbour visible today.

What to shoot and viewpoints Like most places along the North Norfolk coast, it changes drastically here with the tides. At high tide the river is a broad expanse of water with bobbing boats reflected in the calm surface, while at low tide it becomes a shallow trickle, boats left grounded in all directions on the mud and sandbars. Low tide has more options but there’s no shortage of photogenic views at any time.

At high tide the quay in front of the boathouse (the long white building on the river front) offers the best (i.e. the driest) vantage point. From here views stretch along the river in either direction. The thick wooden posts lining the quay can be used to frame the view or step up on to the road and use the higher viewpoint to capture the quay in shot. The path along the sea wall provides another raised view over the harbour towards the boathouse. This longer view works well at high tide with a telephoto lens to compress the distance and emphasise the jumble of boats. The view is just as good when the tide is out but at low tide I like to take the opportunity to wade across the river to the sandbars and saltmarsh on the opposite bank. For an hour or two either side of low tide the river is shallow enough directly in front of the car park to wade across in wellies, but keep a close eye on the tide to avoid getting wet feet on the way back. There’s no telling where the boats will land as the tide goes out but look for one or two attractive vessels to base a composition around, using the rippled sand as a lead. Alternatively, use one in the foreground of a wider view of the harbour. >>

A boat on the sandbanks across the river at low tide. Canon 5D II, 16–35mm at 16mm, ISO 100, 1/10s at f/16. LEE polariser & 0.6 hard ND grad, tripod. Mar.

72

NORTH NORFOLK – BURNHAM OVERY STAITHE


How to get here

Accessibility

Burnham Overy Staithe is on the North Norfolk coast 4.6 miles west of Wells-next-the-Sea. From Wells take the A149 west (towards Hunstanton) for around 4.5 miles. On entering the village 30mph zone take the first right, East Harbour Way, opposite the Hero pub. At the first bend in the road turn right and parking is in front of the river.

Most of the viewpoints are only a few metres from the car park so there’s not much walking involved but it can be soft under foot limiting wheelchair access to the car park or quay.

A word of caution: at high tide the car park floods so, if visiting at high tide, either park at the back of the car park furthest from the river or better still in one of the handful of spaces on East Harbour Way, just past the boathouse. Parking Lat/Long: 52.965065, 0.746067 Parking Grid Ref: TF 844 444 Parking Postcode: PE31 8JF Map: OS Explorer Map 251 (1:25 000) Norfolk Coast Central

Best time of year/day With views in several directions, there are plenty of opportunities here at dawn or dusk throughout the year. From late spring through to early autumn the sun rises and sets in view out over the marsh, while winter brings the chance of low light and dramatic skies. It gets busy during the day in summer but evenings are usually quiet.

Top left: Boats scattered in the river at low tide. Canon 5D II, 17–40mm at 23mm, ISO 100, 1/30s at f/8. LEE 0.6 hard ND grad, tripod. May. Above: Last light on the quay at high tide. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 35mm, ISO 100, 1/4s at f/11. LEE polariser, tripod. July.

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5

BURNHAM OVERY STAITHE

Top: The view from the quay at sunset. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 67mm, ISO 100, 1/10s at f/11. LEE 0.6 hard ND grad, tripod. July. Middle: A jumble of boats at low tide. Canon 5D II, 16–35mm at 31mm, ISO 100, 1/30s at f/16. LEE 0.9 medium ND grad, tripod. July. Above: A view of Burnham Overy Staithe Windmill. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 45mm, ISO 100, 1/40s at f/16. LEE polariser, tripod. Aug.

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NORTH NORFOLK – BURNHAM OVERY STAITHE

Looking back towards the quay at low tide, sunset. Canon 5D II, 17–40mm at 31mm, ISO 100, 1/60s at f/11. Tripod. May.


If you want to explore further, there is a pristine dune-lined beach at the end of the one to one-and-a-half-mile walk along the sea wall to the east of the car park. In the opposite direction, a mile west along the coast road is Tower Windmill, a well-preserved black windmill, visible for some distance

across the flat landscape and – if you’re looking for an unique base for a stay in Norfolk – it’s been converted into holiday accommodation by the National Trust.

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13

FELBRIGG ESTATE

Felbrigg Hall is an elegant Jacobean country house set in an estate of some 1,760 acres of rolling North-Norfolk countryside. Much of the woodland and parkland surrounding the Hall is a designated Site of Specific Scientific Interest.

What to shoot and viewpoints The parkland and woodland are open from dawn until dusk and can be accessed via many footpaths, offering lots of options for dawn–dusk photography. Felbrigg’s walled garden, with its octagonal dovecote and central pond will also hold plenty of interest for photographers and garden lovers alike. For details of opening times and entry fees for the house and gardens, visit the National Trust website.

Viewpoint 1 – The Great Wood Two of Felbrigg’s many highlights can be found in the Great Wood and the first is just a short walk from the car park.

Take the path to the left of the walled garden and follow it up straight up towards the woods, where it eventually passes under the canopy of Victory V walk – a grand avenue of beech trees planted to commemorate the end of World War II. The towering beeches are at their best in spring, when sporting fresh green leaves, or in all their autumn glory. They work well when photographed with a 70–200mm lens (a useful lens in the woods), which makes the trees appear closer together and crops out any distracting bright areas of sky. It’s worth waiting around for somebody walking along the path to give your shots a sense of scale; plenty of local dogwalkers use the woods so you shouldn’t have to wait long! At the top of the V take the path straight ahead, which leads through the woods to the second woodland highlight: the dramatically named Lion’s Mouth. Somewhat anticlimactically, this is just the name of a lane that passes through the woods. However, much of this hidden gem’s route is lined by huge, ancient, twisted trees which, like the Victory V walk, look stunning in spring and autumn.

Early morning at he Victory V walk. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 88mm, ISO 100, 1s at f/8. Tripod. Oct.

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NORTH NORFOLK – FELBRIGG ESTATE


Autumn colour at the Lion’s Mouth (VP1). Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 45mm, ISO 100, 2.5s at f/8. LEE polariser, tripod. Nov.

How to get here Felbrigg Estate is 2.7 miles south west of Cromer. Take the A148 south west out of Cromer and after almost 1.5 miles turn left on to the B1436, signposted by a brown sign to Felbrigg Hall. The entrance to Felbrigg is the next turning on the right, marked by two small gatehouses. Follow the lane until you reach the pay and display car park (free to National Trust members). Parking Lat/Long: 52.907007, 1.262753 Parking Grid Ref: TG 192 393 Parking Postcode: NR11 8PR Map: OS Explorer Map 252 (1:25 000) Norfolk Coast East

Accessibility  The main paths around the Hall, walled garden and up to the Victory V are flat and wheelchair friendly but away from here, the paths are more uneven. Paths in the wood can be muddy in autumn and winter, so wellies or walking boots are recommended.

Best time of year/day The trees around the estate, particularly the ancient beeches in the woods, are stunning in autumn and in spring, when they’re dressed in fresh green. The walled garden is at its best in spring and summer. Felbrigg, like many National Trust estates is popular and gets busy but the parkland is open dawn to dusk, so come early if you want to avoid the crowds.

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16

BLICKLING ESTATE

Top: The entrance to the temple, tucked away in the gardens. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 93mm, ISO 100, 1/3s at f/16. Tripod. Dec. Middle: Colourful autumn beech leaves. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 85mm, ISO 400, 1/640s at f/4. Oct. Above: Evening light on bluebells in the Great Wood. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 47mm, ISO 100, 1/5s at f/8. LEE polariser, tripod. Apr.

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NORTH NORFOLK – BLICKLING ESTATE

Top: The mausoleum in the Great Woods in infrared. Fuji X-Pro1 (infrared converted), 14mm, ISO 100, 1/180s at f/5.6. Apr. Above: Autumn colour in the Great Wood. Canon 5D II, 70–200mm at 70mm, ISO 100, 1/5s at f/8. LEE polariser, tripod. Oct.


Top: The gardens are full of colourful corners with interesting features. Canon 5D IV, 100–400mm at 100mm, ISO 100, 0.6s at f/16. Tripod. July.

Butterflies in the walled garden. Canon 5D IV, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 400, 1/2000s at f/5.6. July.

Above: First light on the garden’s flower beds. Canon 5D IV, 16–35mm at 33mm, ISO 100, 0.8s at f/22. Tripod. July.

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NORFOLK TULIP FIELDS

19

A barley field sprinkled with poppies. Canon 5D II, 70–200mm at 200mm, ISO 100, 1/80s at f/4. Tripod. June.

A field of poppies backlit by the setting sun. Canon 5D II, 70–200mm at 160mm, ISO 100, 1/100s at f/5.6. Tripod. June.

Other flowers Daffodils Cultivated fields of daffodils can be found in a similar area of Norfolk to tulips – south west of Kings Lynn – and photographing them requires employing the same sort of techniques.

Rapeseed The bright yellow fields are ubiquitous across East Anglia and look especially effective with a focal point in the field – a solitary tree for example – or when contrasted with green fields or other flowers.

Poppies It’s hard to predict where poppy fields will appear from one year to the next as the seeds need to be disturbed in order to germinate. If you find a poppy field or a smattering of poppies amongst a crop like wheat or barley, as well as the wide angle views, using a longer lens to zoom in on them can help to compress the distance between blooms, giving the impression of more flowers. Focussing on a small group of flowers amongst the crop can also be effective. >>

A rapeseed field adding foreground colour to this view of Belstead church, Suffolk. Fuji X-T10, 18–55mm at 18mm, ISO 200, 1/50s at f/11. LEE 0.6 medium ND grad, tripod. Apr.

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NORTH NORFOLK – NORFOLK TULIP FIELDS

A field of daffodils backlit by the rising sun. Canon 5D II, 70–200mm at 200mm, ISO 400, 1/640s at f/4. Tripod. Mar.


A low angle view along a row of daffodils. Fuji X-T10, 14mm, ISO 200, 1/280s at f/5.6. Mar.

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4

HORSEY WINDPUMP & BROGRAVE MILL

Built in 1912 on the 18th-century foundations of Horsey Black Mill, Horsey Windpump is an iconic sight, standing serenely over the surrounding reed beds and marshes. Yet the stately structure has had a torrid history. It was built just in time to weather the floods of 1912 and was used to drain the Horsey estate until a lightning strike put it out of action in 1943. A shortage of timber during the war meant it wasn’t repaired for several years. Now under the care of the National Trust, the stocks were eventually taken down in the 1950s. It was dealt another blow in 1987 when the cap was damaged and the fantail blew off in the great storm before it was finally repaired and opened to the public in 1990. It is currently undergoing further restoration (see page 170). On the Waxham New Cut drainage channel, a mile north of Horsey Windpump and long past the need for mere restoration, stands Brograve Mill. Built in 1771 by Sir Berney Brograve, only two stocks and a few stubs of the sails remain. The whole structure is leaning drunkenly but if there’s one thing most photographers love, it’s dereliction.

A cormorant on Horsey Mere. Canon 5D IV, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 800, 1/4000s at f/5.6. LEE 0.6 soft ND grad, tripod. Aug.

Horsey Windpump from along the dyke. Canon 5D II, 17–40mm at 23mm, ISO 100, 1s at f/11. LEE 0.6 hard ND grad, tripod. Jan.

How to get here Horsey is on the eastern edge of the Broads, very close to the coast and 8 miles north of Caister-on-Sea. Take the Caister bypass north and follow the road for 8 miles, passing through the villages of Hemsby, Winterton, East and West Somerton all the way to Horsey Windpump, which will be visible beside the long straight road about 1.5 miles past West Somerton. Park in the National Trust car park on the left. Parking Lat/Long: 52.742682, 1.638061 VP 1 Parking Grid Ref: TG 457 221 VP 2 Parking Grid Ref: TG 448 235 Parking Postcode: NR29 4EE Map: OS Explorer Map OL40 (1:25 000) The Broads

Accessibility  Horsey Windpump is only a few metres from the car park and is easily accessible for wheelchair users. The walk to Brograve Mill takes around twenty minutes on flat ground but the path is narrow, uneven and often muddy in places.

Best time of year/day Like many places on the Broads, both Horsey and Brograve are at their best in calm weather, when there are reflections on the water and, if conditions are right, there is a chance of mist; spring and autumn are often likely times of year for this. Summer months are good for golden hour side light on Horsey Windpump, but the staithe will likely be busy with boats obscuring the view. You can also catch the sun setting behind Brograve Mill at this time of year, though the path can get a bit overgrown. Winter is my favourite time of year here. With few if any boats and on calm, clear days laced with a thick frost and pastel hues colouring the sky, it is truly beautiful. Opposite: Horsey Windpump from along the staithe on a calm, frosty morning. Canon 5D II, 17–40mm at 20mm, ISO 100, 1.3s at f/16. LEE 0.6 hard ND grad, tripod. Jan.



5

WEST SOMERTON Viewpoint 2 – Martham Broad view Continue for a few minutes along the path past the windpump and the river turns left away from the footpath. From this bend there is a view west along the river towards Martham Broad with Heigham Holmes Windpump visible in the distance across the reed beds. The windpump is nearly a mile away so I like to use a telephoto lens in the range of a 70–200mm or even 100–400mm here to prevent if from looking very small in the frame. As the river runs in a westerly direction here it’s also a good spot for a sunset view, especially in March and September when the sun sets behind the windpump. If the reeds aren’t too high, there’s also a view back towards the windpump from a little further around the bend. If you can’t see over the top of the reeds, try getting closer to the water and finding a gap through them. Martham Broad is a nature reserve so this is a great spot for wildlife. Keep an eye out for bearded tits in the reed beds and barn owls or marsh harriers hunting over the marshes and meadows.

Top: A male bearded tit in the reed beds in winter. Canon 5D IV, 100–400mm at 400mm, ISO 1600, 1/3200s at f/5.6. Dec. Middle: The view across Martham Broad to Heigham Holmes; windpump in the distance. Canon 5D IV, 100–400mm at 300mm, ISO 100, 1/13s at f/16. Tripod. Dec. Bottom: Looking along the river towards the sunset over Martham Broad. Canon 5D IV, 24-105mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/15s at f/16. LEE 0.9 hard ND grad, tripod. Apr.

Opposite: Swans flying across the view towards Martham Broad at sunset. Canon 5D IV, 100–400mm at 310mm, ISO 400, 1/500s at f/5.6. LEE 0.9 medium ND grad, tripod. Apr.

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8

CAISTER-ON-SEA As the groynes are best photographed with water swirling around them, check the tides before visiting to get the most from the location. The tidal range isn’t large here so there’s quite a good window of opportunity, though at high tide the groins will be largely submerged and at low tide they will be left high and dry. The ideal time to visit is 1–2 hours after high tide, with the tide receding. It’s worth wandering along the beach to explore, as each of the groynes is a little different; some are longer or more prominent than others, depending on how the sand has been shifted by the tides. Offshore here are the thirty turbines of Scroby Sands Wind Farm, which you’ll either regard as an interesting background or an eyesore. Choose your viewpoint according to your point of view – another good reason to explore. At the northern end of the beach, a Second World War concrete pillbox squats, half-buried in the sand. It makes another interesting subject to photograph, particularly when surrounded by water.

How to get here Caister-on-Sea is a seaside town on the east coast of Norfolk, just over 3 miles north of Great Yarmouth. From the A47 roundabout at Great Yarmouth, head south east on the A149. Turn left at the next roundabout on to North Quay (A149), which later becomes Lawn Avenue and then Caister Road (still A149). You’ll reach Caister town centre after just over a mile. Turn right on to Beach Road and the car park is the fourth turning on the right. Parking Lat/Long: 52.646543, 1.734424 Parking Grid Ref: TG 528 119 Parking Postcode: NR30 5HD Map: OS Explorer Map OL40 (1:25 000) The Broads

Accessibility The beach is just over 100m from the car park and the sea defences are spread along approximately half a mile of beach.

Top: A long exposure turns the sea misty, emphasising the sea defences. Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 32mm, ISO 100, 59s at f/16. LEE 0.6 hard ND grad & Big Stopper, tripod. Sep. Middle: Three wind turbines emerging from the fog on Scroby Sands. Canon 5D IV, 100–400mm at 275mm, ISO 100, 15s at f/16. Tripod. Mar. Above: Looking north towards the pillbox in the surf. Canon 5D IV, 16–35mm at 16mm, ISO 100, 1/3s at f/16. LEE 0.6 hard ND grad & 0.9 ND, tripod. Jan.

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THE BROADS & EAST NORFOLK COAST – CAISTER-ON-SEA

Best time of year/day The beach here faces slightly north of east so sunrise is the best time to visit throughout the year. That said, in mid-winter, when the sun rises in the south east, it is harder to catch the sun rising in the shot. ‘Bad’ weather days with overcast or dramatic skies are great here too, particularly for long exposures.


Looking down on to the sea defences emphasises the zigzag shape. Canon 5D IV, 16–35mm at 18mm, ISO 100, 1s at f/16. LEE 0.6 hard ND grad & 0.9 ND, tripod. Jan.


Thurne Mill rising above the reeds in afternoon light (VP1). Canon 5D II, 17–40mm at 40mm, ISO 100, 1/125s at f/8. LEE polariser, tripod. Mar.



10

THURNE

A misty sunrise at Thurne Mill. Canon 7D, 17–55mm at 55mm, ISO 100, 1/40s at f/11. LEE 0.9 hard ND grad, tripod. Oct.

Viewpoint 2 – South of the dyke From the car park, head back to the road and walk around the end of Thurne Dyke. Go through the wooden gate on the right and pick up the path alongside the dyke. From the corner by the river, and if there are no boats moored in the way, there is a wide expanse of water for reflections of Thurne Mill on the opposite bank. It looks stunning when photographed under an ominous sky. Follow the path around the corner and south along the river and St Benet’s Mill will be visible across the reed beds. The strong shapes of the mill and the reeds make worthy subjects silhouetted against the setting sun. There are a few paths through the reeds to the river’s edge but these are often waterlogged so use them with caution (and wellies!) or stay on dry land and use them in your composition as lead-in lines through the reeds. Further south there are a couple of moorings in the riverbank that provide views across to St Benet’s Mill. The first is a wooden jetty next to a houseboat; at the second – around 100m further along the river – a wooden boardwalk and some hefty mooring posts serve as useful foreground interest. I can’t be entirely certain if these jetties are private or not, but they are the only ones without ‘private’ signs on them so my assumption is, they’re not. If they are in use (which they most likely will be during the season), they won’t be much use for photography anyway.

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THE BROADS & EAST NORFOLK COAST – THURNE

Top: Yachts passing St Benet’s Level Drainage Mill on a spring morning (VP2). Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 50mm, ISO 400, 1/640s at f/8. Apr. Above: The sun setting behind St Benet’s Mill (VP2). Canon 5D II, 70–200mm at 125mm, ISO 100, 1/25s at f/11. LEE 0.9 hard ND grad, tripod. May.

There is a path that runs along the opposite bank of the river towards St Benet’s Abbey, which is accessed from the very end of Cold Harbour Lane, south from Ludham village. From this path there are great sunrise views across the river to Thurne Mill and different views of St Benet’s Mill. Unfortunately this isn’t a public footpath and for the last year or so this path has been closed to the public with access currently for anglers only. I mention it here for information only, in case that should ever change.


Looking across the River Thurne towards St Benet’s Mill (VP1). Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 55mm, ISO 100, 1/2s at f/16. LEE 0.6 medium ND grad & polariser, tripod. Dec.

THE BROADS & EAST NORFOLK COAST – THURNE

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Boardman’s Mill framed by a gap in the trees. Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 60mm, ISO 100, 1/15s at f/16. Tripod. Dec.



Blue hour from Mousehold Heath. Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 75mm, ISO 100, 30s at f/16. LEE 0.6 hard ND grad. Feb.



THE BROADS BY BOAT

A perfect day for sailing on the River Thurne. Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 24mm, ISO 400, 1/1600s at f/8. Apr.

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The Broads National Park is Britain’s third largest inland waterway and, although it has more than 190 miles of public footpaths, many of the shallow lakes and rivers that make up the Broads are impossible to reach on foot. So, with 125 miles of navigable waterway to explore, the best way to see the region is definitely from the water. Here are some of the many ways to do it …

Norfolk Wherry Originally trading boats used to transport cargo inland from the coast, wherries were later developed as pleasure boats to meet the demands of tourism on the Broads and fitted out to a high standard. There are just eight remaining and most of these are sailed regularly with some available to charter … surely the most stylish way to see the Broads. For more information go to: www.wherryyachtcharter.org

Canoe As well as being the most environmentally friendly way to see the Broads, canoes or kayaks enable you to see some of the areas of the Broads that are inaccessible to motorboats. This could be because they are nature reserves, the water is too shallow or channels too narrow. Paddling quietly down miles of these undisturbed waterways, you have a much better chance of seeing some of the Broads’ more elusive wildlife like kingfishers, bitterns and even otters. For canoe hire or guided tours go to: www.thecanoeman.com

Guided tours There are several really good wildlife boat tours on the Broads and the guides’ knowledge of the area and its wildlife usually means you’ll get more from your visit. Go to: www.wildlife-boat-trips.co.uk or visit: www.broads-authority.gov.uk/boating

Boat hire For more information on hiring a boat, either for the day or for a holiday, go to: www.broads-authority.gov.uk/boating

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Berney Arms Windmill from the banks of the River Yare at first light (VP2). Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 28mm, ISO 100, 1/20s at f/16. LEE polariser, tripod. Aug.


16

HERRINGFLEET DRAINAGE MILL

The windpump lit by soft, early-morning light. Canon 5D II, 17–40mm at 17mm, ISO 100, 1/60s at f/11. LEE 0.6 soft ND grad, tripod. Apr.

Across the bridge, a raised footpath runs parallel to the dyke providing some welcome elevation for views of the mill and surrounding marshland – a position that works especially well on misty mornings. Turning right on to this path offers great views back towards the front of the mill and from that angle, the sun will rise behind it through most of the year (check with the sun-position compass).

Walk the other way along the path for shots of the mill from behind, lit by the first rays of sunlight.

How to get here

Accessibility

Herringfleet Drainage Mill is tucked away on a remote marsh by the River Waveney about 6 miles south west of Great Yarmouth. From Great Yarmouth follow the A143 towards Beccles for just over 5 miles then turn left on to the B1074 signposted Lowestoft. The car park is around a mile along the road in the lay-by on the right. An alternative, more convenient parking place if you are planning on stopping for a drink or bite to eat, is at the Duke’s Head Pub, Slugs Lane NR32 5QR. From here, follow the lane next to the car park down to the river and turn right following the riverside path for less than a mile to the mill.

The walk from the car park is around 900m but the path is fairly steep and narrow through the woods and can get muddy on the marsh. Dawn or dusk in the woods can be dark so don’t forget to take a head torch.

Parking Lat/Long: 52.526012, 1.638249 Parking Grid Ref: TM 465 976 Parking Postcode: NR32 5QT Map: OS Explorer Map OL40 (1:25 000) The Broads

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HERRINGFLEET DRAINAGE MILL

While it can be tempting to stay close to the mill with a wide angle lens, it’s also worth wandering further along any of the paths for shots of the structure in the wider landscape especially under the sweeping sky.

Best time of year/day The mill can be photographed from several different directions so there are always options in the golden-hour light at either end of the day throughout the year. Early mornings are probably the best time of day, when a mist often hangs over the marshes. Autumn is a good time to visit when the reed beds take on a golden hue, and frosty winter mornings can be particularly spectacular.


Herringfleet Drainage Mill reflected in the dyke early on a winter morning. Canon 5D II, 17–40mm at 26mm, ISO 100, 1/6s at f/16. LEE 0.9 soft ND grad, tripod. Dec.


THE SUFFOLK COAST – INTRODUCTION ‘Unspoilt’ is the word that springs to mind when describing the Suffolk coast. Virtually the entire length, certainly everything covered in these pages, lies within the Suffolk Coast and Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. In the south, the remote shingle beaches pounded by the North Sea, around Bawdsey, Shingle Street and Orford Ness are somewhat bleak at first sight but it is in their remoteness and the solitude of the few cottages along the shore in which lies their charm. Further north, the beaches become sandier and edged in places – notably Dunwich and Covehithe – with cliffs. These aren’t the rugged, rocky kind, (this is East Anglia after all) but rather golden, sandy limestone that glow softly in the morning sun. Military history is visible in the shape of defences dotted along the coast, from the Napoleonic Martello towers to the World War II concrete pillboxes and tank traps but otherwise there is relatively little development. The coast here is as much shaped by the sea as by man … quite literally in fact. The shingle beaches are an ever-shifting landscape, their shape and size changing quite dramatically with each tidal surge and you only have to see the trees that line the beach at Covehithe to realise the cliffs are eroding at an alarming rate. Ironically perhaps, amongst all this unspoilt coast, it is the developed areas that are the most popular with photographers. Particularly Southwold with its picture-postcard pier and colourful beach huts (which have been know to sell for over £100,000!) and Aldeburgh with its eclectic mix of the quirky and the traditional. Meandering sedately inland from the coast are the rivers Deben, Ore (later becoming the Alde) and Blyth. All are the sort of slow, sweeping estuaries, flanked by reed beds and saltmarsh that characterise the region. It’s well worth venturing inland to explore the patchwork of farmland, lowland heath (like that at Dunwich) and woodland that is as unspoilt as the coast itself.

Previous spread: A dramatic sunrise on the Suffolk coast at Aldeburgh. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/30s at f/11. LEE 0.6 hard ND grad, tripod. Oct.

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THE SUFFOLK COAST

1 Covehithe ���������������������������������� 242 2 Southwold ��������������������������������� 246 3 Walberswick ������������������������������ 256 4 Dunwich Heath ����������������������� 260 5 Sizewell ��������������������������������������� 268 6 Framlingham Castle ������������� 272 7 Saxtead Green Windmill ����� 276 8 Helmingham Hall ������������������� 280 9 Snape Maltings ����������������������� 286 10 Iken ����������������������������������������������� 290 11 Aldeburgh ���������������������������������� 296 12 Orford & Orford Ness ������������ 304 13 Woodbridge Tide Mill & Sutton Hoo ��������������������������� 312 14 Shingle Street �������������������������� 318 15 Bawdsey ������������������������������������� 324

Maps • OS Explorer Map 231 (1:25 000) Southwold & Bungay • OS Explorer Map 212 (1:25 000) Woodbridge & Saxmundham • OS Explorer Map 211 (1:25 000) Bury St Edmunds & Stowmarket • OS Explorer Map 197 (1:25 000) Ipswich, Felixstowe & Harwich


Earsham

A140

Bungay

62 A143 B10

Beccles

Ringsfield

Mutford B1127

Alburgh

Pulham St Mary

A146

Harleston

Kessingland

A145

Homersfield

A12

A144

Mendham

Benacre Broad

Wrentham 1

124

B1

B11

23

Halesworth

Fressingfield

3

B111

7

Laxfield

B1125

18

Worlingworth

Ri v

12

er A

Leiston

9

B111

Chopping Hill

Beach

9

Tunstall B1

10

White Lion Hotel

Iken Iken

8

Sudbourne

B1077

Rendlesham A12 B10 79

13

Honey & Harvey

A1152

Melton

B1084

Woodbridge

Orford Castle

The Unruly Pig

Sutton Hoo Tide Mill

Aldeburgh 11 Slaughden quay

e

0 B1

07

Grundisburgh

Orford River Ferry

Aldeburgh Bay

12

Orford & Orford Ness

Orford Ness

Orfordness - Havergate National Nature Reserve

Ri v

er

Sutton

ben

Thatched Farm Bed & Breakfast and Holiday Cottages

De

Ipswich

Hollesley B1083

A12

Hollesley Bay

Newbourne

Shingle Street

14

Ramsholt Arms

A14

N

Bawdsey Rive B1456

A14

r Orw

Chelmondiston

ell

5

Thorpeness

r Ald

69

A1094

Snape

22

Snape Maltings

n

Otley

A12

e

Wickham Market

B1

Sizewell

B11

v

078

Coastguard cottages Beach

116

D eb

Monewden

Dunwich Heath

Sizewell Power Station

Saxmunden

Ri

Helmingham 8 Hall

Helmingham Hall

4

Westleton Crown

B1

Brandeston er

The Anchor

Dunwich

Minsmere Nature Reserve

A12

9

Framlingham

Framsden

Kiosk

l

B111

6

A1120

2

Pier & beach huts Lighthouse Dunes Dunes Harbour Gunhill Beach

de

Framlingham Framlingham Castle Castle

Common Room CafĂŠ

B1

A1120

Dennington

Debenham

Westleton

Peasenhall

White Horse Inn

Saxtead Green

3

Lord Nelson

Walberswick

A12

16 B11

B11

Harbour Cafe The Anchor

Bramfield

B11

2

Southwold

th Blythburgh

A144

17

B1117

7

A1095

R i v er Bly

Walpole Stradbroke

6

B112

116 B1

Hoxne 118

Covehithe Broad

B112

A145

Rive

B1

Wangford

7

Brockdish

B112

Metfield

A143

Covehithe Covehithe

Rumburgh

Trimley St Martin

Boathouse Cafe

15

Bawdsey

Beach

The Ferry Boat Inn

Old Felixstowe

0

miles

2.5




Deer in the heather (VP1). Canon 7D, 300mm, ISO 200, 1/500s at f/5.6. Aug.



11

ALDEBURGH

Boats on the northern end of the beach from a low angle. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 45mm, ISO 100, 1/80s at f/11. Oct.

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THE SUFFOLK COAST – ALDEBURGH


Now a well-heeled seaside town, Aldeburgh was once a thriving Tudor port and the Golden Hind, Sir Frances Drake’s historic ship was built in the boatyards here. A more recent claim to fame is the Aldeburgh Festival, an internationally renowned music festival founded in 1948 by Benjamin Britten, who lived, worked and – like photographers and artists today – found inspiration in the coast here. Much of Aldeburgh’s charm comes from the unusual mix of buildings dotted around the town and along the seafront; from the beautifully preserved 16th-century Moot Hall to fishing shacks selling the day’s catch. The shingle beach is strewn with brightly painted fishing boats, both old and new, and all the associated paraphernalia of nets and lobster pots that photographers love.

What to shoot and viewpoints Viewpoint 1 – The beach Some of the more interesting boats are more or less in front of the parking and these look excellent against big sunrise skies. Look for single boats or small groups that you can isolate for a cleaner composition. A wide angle lens and low viewpoint are great for making the most of those shots. In the summer, swathes of red valerian flower along the shingle, add a vibrant blush to the beach. Try getting down low and framing shots of the boats with the flowers, or shooting through them with a large aperture and longer focal length for out-of-focus colour effects. The beach here is also a great place for close-up shots and a telephoto lens like the 70–200mm is ideal for picking these details out. >>

Overleaf: Looking south towards houses on the seafront. Canon 7D, 17–55mm at 55mm, ISO 100, 1/8s at f/8. LEE 0.6 hard ND grad, tripod. Jan.

THE SUFFOLK COAST – ALDEBURGH

297





Looking down the River Deben to the Tide Mill at sunrise (VP1). Canon 5D II, 17–40mm at 37mm, ISO 100, 1s at f/16. LEE 0.9 soft ND grad, tripod. Sep.



A dramatic long exposure at a high tide. Canon 5D II, 17–40mm at 21mm, ISO 50, 501s at f/16. LEE 0.6 hard ND grad, 0.9 ND & Big Stopper, tripod. June.


7

FLATFORD

A tiny cluster of thatched cottages built around an 18th-century water mill on the River Stour, Flatford is world famous thanks to the paintings of John Constable, who lived in nearby East Bergholt. Surprisingly, little has changed (except of course that there are more tourists these days) in the 200 years or so since Constable painted here and many of the scenes we’re so familiar with are still recognisable today. Flatford’s attraction goes beyond the village though: it lies on perhaps the most picturesque stretch of the River Stour as it meanders its way through a typically English landscape of fields and cattle-grazed meadows in the Dedham Vale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, otherwise known as Constable Country.

What to shoot and viewpoints Viewpoint 1 – The Mill & Cottages The short path down from the car park brings you out in front of Bridge Cottage (more on this shortly), to reach the mill. Carry on down the lane and bear left. Just after passing behind the National Trust shop and tearoom, you’ll see a gravel drive on the right; this is the dry dock, scene of Constable’s Boat Building, but carry on past it to the river and, to the left, there’s a view through the trees to the mill. Continue to the end of the lane and you’ll arrive at the familiar view of Willy Lott’s cottage from The Haywain. Options are fairly limited here – the best view is the classic one looking across the mill pool but for something a little different try shooting from a little further back down the lane to include the mill as well. From in front of the cottage there are views back towards the mill, with bullrushes by the water’s edge providing an interesting foreground. As a bonus, if you are here early in the morning, you’ll often be rewarded by the sight of a kingfisher hunting in the pool. A footpath continues beyond Willy Lott’s cottage; take the path to the left and, from the hillside, there are views over the valley with glimpses of the cottage and mill amongst the trees. Back at Bridge Cottage, cross over the bridge and turn left. This side of the river offers views of the cottage and bridge reflected in the calm water. A little further along the path

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THE ESSEX & SUFFOLK BORDER – FLATFORD

past the lock are views across to the other side of the mill. There are many classic ‘postcard’ views at places like Flatford and where alternatives are limited, often the best way to acquire something different is to shoot in different weather or conditions, or try different techniques like infrared for example.

Opposite top left: Bridge Cottage. Canon 50D, 17–55mm at 18mm, ISO 100, 1/2 at f/16. Right: Flatford Mill in winter light. Canon G1-X at 28mm, ISO 100, 1/10 at f/8. Opposite middle left: A glimpse of Flatford Mill through the trees. Canon 7D, 50mm, ISO 100, 1/320s at f/8. Tripod. July. Right: Looking down the lane towards Willy Lott’s cottage in summer. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 67mm, ISO 100, 1/6s at f/11, (Blend of 3 bracketed exposures). Tripod. July.

How to get here Flatford is on the River Stour, 3 miles west of Manningtree. Take the A137 north from Manningtree, cross over the river and at the roundabout turn left on to the B1070. Follow the road for 1.3 miles then turn left towards East Bergholt. At the crossroads, turn left by the large white cottage and follow the lane until you see the brown sign for the car park on the left. The car park is free to National Trust members. Parking Lat/Long: 51.961777, 1.019783 Parking Grid Ref: TM 753 333 Parking Postcode: CO7 6UJ Map: OS Explorer Map 196 (1:25 000) Sudbury, Hadleigh & Dedham Vale

Accessibility  Flatford itself is wheelchair friendly and there is disabled parking in front of the visitor centre (turn left immediately before the car park entrance – the National Trust car park is on the left at the bottom of the hill). The river walk to Dedham is around 2 miles and flat but it’s across fields so can be muddy in winter.

Best time of year/day Flatford gets very busy during the daytime, particularly in the summer but early mornings and evenings are peaceful and the best times to avoid the crowds. With the gardens in flower, spring or summer is a lovely time to visit. A blanket of mist over the meadows and river is often the reward for those dedicated enough to get up in the very early hours. The village itself sits in a bit of a dip and the sun takes a little while to reach it, so I prefer to shoot the river at dawn and move on to the cottages once the sun is a little higher. For atmosphere, winter is hard to beat. The mill and thatched cottages look glorious lit by the last rays of afternoon sunlight and on a still, crisp morning, the oft-present layer of mist can turn to freezing fog creating spectacular frosts.


Below: Mist in the valley at dawn. Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 105mm, ISO 100, 1/4s at f/11. LEE 0.6 medium ND grad, tripod. Nov.


8

SUDBURY WATER MEADOWS

Top: A frosty morning on Fillingpit Meadows. 5D MkIV, 24–105mm at 32mm, ISO 100, 1/20s at f/11. LEE 0.9 medium ND grad, tripod. Nov. Above: A common, misty, morning. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 32mm, ISO 100, 1s at f/11. LEE 0.6 soft ND grad, tripod. Sep.

Kings Marsh Cross the next footbridge over the river, continuing south towards the cottages and mill pool and then bear right towards another footbridge, crossing it on to Kings Marsh. Here, a neat line of trees on the opposite bank make a great backdrop to the river, particularly when reflected in the water on a calm morning, or shrouded in mist. The trees themselves look best with foliage in summer or autumn, but in winter, bare branches reveal the church beyond.

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THE ESSEX & SUFFOLK BORDER – SUDBURY WATER MEADOWS


Sunrise through the mist at Kings Meadow. 5D MkII, 24–105mm at 28mm, ISO 100, 1/6s at f/11. LEE 0.6 hard ND grad, tripod. Mar.

THE ESSEX & SUFFOLK BORDER – SUDBURY WATER MEADOWS

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9

SUFFOLK WOOL TOWNS

In the 15th century, when the wool trade was at its peak, the Suffolk Wool Towns were among the richest places in the country. The extraordinary wealth from the production and trade of woollen cloth was used to build the timber-framed houses and grand churches that are a characteristic of the towns and villages like Lavenham, Long Melford, Sudbury, Hadleigh, Clare, Kersey and Cavendish.

Things unravelled in the 16th century when Flemish weavers began producing a cheaper, more fashionable cloth. The wool trade collapsed and a long period of impoverishment followed. The inhabitants of the wool towns couldn’t afford to upgrade their timber-framed houses to brick or stone, so today we are left with some of the best-preserved medieval towns and prettiest villages in Suffolk.


The ford in the beautiful village of Kersey. Fuji X-T10, 18–55mm at 20mm, ISO 200, 1/100s at f/11. June.




CAMBRIDGESHIRE & THE BRECKS – INTRODUCTION While most photographers visiting East Anglia are probably more likely to head straight for the coast, they’d be missing out if they didn’t spend some time exploring the west of the region as well, an area characterised in the main by two unusual habitats: the Brecks and the Fens. One of the driest regions in the UK, the Brecks was once an area of ancient heathland covering south west Norfolk and north west Suffolk. ‘Brecks’ were fields cultivated until the soil became exhausted and then left to revert to heathland. Much of the area is now covered by Thetford Forest, the largest man-made lowland forest in Britain and its heathland, pine and broadleaved woods hold plenty of photographic opportunities. To the west of the Brecks, and in stark contrast to their dryness, lie the Fens, an area of marshland stretching from Cambridgeshire into Norfolk and Lincolnshire. Nearly all of this marsh has been drained for agricultural use but areas have been preserved as nature reserves such as that at Wicken Fen, and ongoing projects are returning more of the fens to their original state. Even by East Anglia’s standards, this part of the region is flat – in most places only a few metres above sea level – and Holme Fen, the lowest point in the UK, lies 2.75 metres below sea level. There are some hills here, the largest of which at a whopping thirty-nine metres above sea level, is at Ely, where the magnificent cathedral, known as the ship of the fens, dominates the landscape for miles around. To the south of the Fens is the city of Cambridge. Known for being home to one of the top universities in the world, the city’s rambling streets and quaint passageways are packed with wonderful architecture, Thanks largely to there being more bikes than cars in the city centre, it has a relaxing, peaceful atmosphere … aside from the hordes of tourists that is.

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CAMBRIDGESHIRE & THE BRECKS – INTRODUCTION

Punts lined up in the summer sun, Cambridge. Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 65mm, ISO 100, 1/50s at f/5.6. LEE polariser. Aug.


Maps • OS Explorer Map 225 (1:25 000) Huntingdon & St Ives • OS Explorer Map 209 (1:25 000) Cambridge • OS Explorer Map 226 (1:25 000) Ely & Newmarket

• OS Explorer Map 229 (1:25 000) Thetford Forest in the Brecks • OS Explorer Map 211 (1:25 000) Bury St Edmunds & Stowmarket

CAMBRIDGESHIRE & THE BRECKS – INTRODUCTION

421



Mullard radio telescopes in infrared. Fuji X-Pro1, 14mm, ISO 200, 1/280s at f/8. July.


3

CAMBRIDGE

The Bridge of Sighs from a punt. Fuji X-T10, 18–55mm at 18mm, ISO 200, 1/220s at f/8. Mar.

Further north, past the entrance to Clare College take the next right on to Garret Hostel Lane to what is easily the least attractive bridge on this stretch of the river. Ugly as it is, Garret Hostel Bridge is an excellent vantage point from which to photograph punts gliding lazily along the river towards the infinitely more attractive bridges at Clare College to the south or Trinity College to the north. Get there early or late to catch the first or last few punts of the day (the river gets chaotic with punts during the day)

440

CAMBRIDGESHIRE & THE BRECKS – CAMBRIDGE

and use a 70–200mm or similar lens to isolate a single punt and section of the river. Around 350m north along the river is the Bridge of Sighs, one of Cambridge’s most famous bridges. Named after the original in Venice, to which it bears little resemblance, it is best shot from nearby Kitchen Bridge on the grounds of St John’s College or from a punt which is a great way to experience the Backs. >>


Top: The entrance to Trinity College. Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 35mm, ISO 100, 1/25s at f/11. LEE polariser, tripod. Aug. Above: Cambridge University clock, above the door of Great St Mary’s Church. Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 80mm, ISO 100, 1/200s at f/5.6. Aug.

Top: Trinity Lane at blue hour. Canon 5D IV, 16–35mm at 35mm, ISO 100, 13s at f/22. Tripod. Sep. Above: King’s College from King’s Parade. Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/40s at f/16. LEE polariser, tripod. Aug.

Opposite top left: Close up of punts moored on the river. Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 47mm, ISO 100, 1/30s at f/8. LEE polariser, tripod. June. Top right: Close up of punts moored on the river. Canon 5D IV, 24–105mm at 85mm, ISO 100, 1/100s at f/5.6. LEE polariser. Aug.

CAMBRIDGESHIRE & THE BRECKS – CAMBRIDGE

441


7

THETFORD FOREST

Top: Backlit trees on a misty autumn morning at VP1. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 55mm, ISO 100, 1/6s at f/11. Tripod. Nov. Above: Silver birch and larch glowing with autumn colour. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 105mm, ISO 100, 1/60s at f/8. Tripod. Nov.

468

CAMBRIDGESHIRE & THE BRECKS – THETFORD FOREST

Autumnal beech leaves stand out against the early morning mist at VP1. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 105mm, ISO 100, 1/60s at f/8. Tripod. Nov.


Top: Walking the dog through a foggy forest (VP2). Canon 5D II, 100–400mm at 100mm, ISO 100, 1/15s at f/5.6. Tripod. Jan.

Autumnal conifers and silver birch. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 84mm, ISO 100, 1/8s at f/4. Tripod. Nov.

Above: An autumnal detail shot. Canon 5D II, 100mm macro, ISO 100, 1/30s at f/4. Tripod. Nov.

CAMBRIDGESHIRE & THE BRECKS – THETFORD FOREST

469


8

ICKWORTH HOUSE

The Canal Lake and walled garden at dawn. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 50mm, ISO 100, 0.8s at f/11. LEE 0.6 medium ND grad, tripod. Oct.

Viewpoint 2 – Around the lake Beside the entrance to the Italianate garden, the path carries on through parkland towards the church, walled garden and lake beyond. The pond you pass on the right, Parson’s Pond, and the 13th-century church ahead are believed to be the only remains of the tiny village of Ickworth, most of which was demolished in 1700 to make way for the parkland. In spring, these meadows are home to gambolling lambs, which are a joy to watch and photograph. Bring a telephoto lens, set your camera to continuous focus, keep your distance and watch and wait; it’s rarely too long before they’re leaping about. There are also good views of the church from along this path, especially in evening light, using the path as a lead-in line or framed by trees. Past the church, while the main path continues downhill through ancient trees to a pretty bridge, paths branch off to the left towards and around the walled garden and down to the lake. The walled

480

CAMBRIDGESHIRE & THE BRECKS – ICKWORTH HOUSE

garden is full of life including a wildflower meadow in summer with the old brick walls and peeling woodwork providing a great backdrop. Below the walled garden is the peaceful canal lake, a swell in the valley of the tiny River Linnet. There are beautiful views here across towards the walled garden, summerhouse, church and rotunda in the distance. Early on a calm morning, with wisps of mist rising from the water, first light streaming through the trees and perhaps a heron stalking the margins, it’s wonderful.

Opposite middle left: Gambolling lambs. Canon 5D II, 100–400mm at 250mm, ISO 400, 1/400s at f/5.6. Mar. Middle right: Detail of flowers in the walled garden. Canon 5D II, 100mm macro, ISO 100, 1/500s at f/2.8. Aug. Bottom left: Detail of flowers in the walled garden. Canon 5D II, 100mm macro, ISO 100, 1/125s at f/5.6. Aug. Bottom right: The path around the lake in morning light. Canon 5D II, 70–200mm at 118mm, ISO 100, 1/4s at f/11. LEE polariser, tripod. Nov.


The walled garden wildflower area. Canon 5D II, 24–105mm at 35mm, ISO 100, 1/5s at f/11. LEE polariser, tripod. Aug.



NATURE RESERVES

Seal pup at Blakeney National Nature Reserve Canon 7D, 100–400mm at 180mm, ISO 400, 1/320s at f/5.6. Dec.


ABOUT THE AUTHOR – JUSTIN MINNS Biography Justin Minns is a professional photographer based in Suffolk. Photography began as a hobby ten years ago when his wife bought him a digital compact camera for taking holiday snaps. Several years and cameras later, he developed an interest in landscape photography with the East Anglian landscape as his main focus. Early in his career Justin was recognised with several awards in the prestigious Landscape Photographer of the Year competition, commissions from the National Trust and an LRPS distinction from the Royal Photographic Society. He is now one of top landscape photographers in the UK, renowned for his ability to capture the spirit of a location. His work has been extensively published in, and he regularly writes for, the photographic press including Amateur Photography, Outdoor Photography, Practical Photography, On Landscape and Photo Plus magazines, as well as featuring in media around the world. In 2018, three of Justin’s images were commended in the Landscape Photographer of the Year competition, one of the many awards he has received from this prestigious competition, including twice being featured on the front cover of the competition book. He was the winner of the Your Vision 2018 competition and regularly places in the Outdoor Photographer of the Year, RHS Photography and International Garden Photographer of the Year competitions. Justin personally runs one-to-one and group landscape photography workshops including photographic workshops for the National Trust, Forestry Commission and Royal Photographic Society as well as leading photography tours to locations around the world for Tatra Photography. Justin uses Canon cameras and lenses, LEE filters (who kindly support his workshops) and Gitzo tripods You can book Justin for a photographic workshop, and buy his prints at: www.justinminns.co.uk

Moraine Lake, Canada in the snow. Canon 5D IV, 16–35mm at 20mm, ISO 100, 5s at f/11. LEE polariser, tripod. Sep.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR – JUSTIN MINNS



ABOUT FotoVUE If you are a keen photographer or want to take the best photos when out and about or on holiday, fotoVUE guidebooks show you where and how to take photographs in the world’s most beautiful places.

Website – www.fotovue.com Visit our website for articles on how to improve your photography, view inspirational photographs and learn more about our guidebooks. • Find out about our books • Additional viewpoints • Photography tutorials • News and special offers • Inspiration – full of amazing photographs • Articles and features by leading photographers Register for the fotoVUE newsletter to get regular updates and offers on our guidebooks.

Existing books fotoVUE photographer-authors use their local knowledge and expertise to show you the best locations to photograph and the best times to visit. • Photographing The Lake District – by Stuart Holmes • Photographing North Wales – by Simon Kitchin • Photographing Wildlife in the UK – by Andrew Marshall • Photographing Cornwall and Devon – by Adam Burton • Photographing Dorset – Mark Bauer

Contact: mick@fotovue.com 526

ABOUT FOTOVUE

• Photographing The Dolomites – James Rushforth •P hotographing The Peak District – Chris Gilbert & Mick Ryan • Photographing Scotland – Dougie Cunningham • Photographing South Wales – Drew Buckley • Photographing The Snowdonia Mountains – Nick Livesey • Photographing East Anglia – Justin Minns

Forthcoming titles • Photographing London – George Johnson • Photographing Northumberland – Anita Nicholson • Photographing The Cotswolds – Sarah Howard • Photographing West Ireland – Carsten Krieger •P hotographing The Yorkshire Dales – Lizzie Shepherd •P hotographing Iceland – James Rushforth, Geraldine Westrupp and Martin Sammtleben • Photographing Kent – Alex Hare • Photographing Dublin and Wicklow – Adrian Hendroff • Photographing The Hebrides – Chris Swan • Photographing The Night Sky – Alyn Wallace • Photographing Surrey and Sussex – Beata Moore • Photographing Family – Sarah Mason and Suzi Garlick Check the website for the latest on release dates.

www.fotovue.com Opposite: South Stack lighthouse, Anglesey, North Wales © Alyn Wallace (alynwallacephotography.com) author of the forthcoming Photographing The Night Sky published by fotoVUE.



fotoVUE guidebooks show you where and how to take photographs of the world’s most beautiful places.

PHOTOGRAPHING EAST ANGLIA

BY JUSTIN MINNS – WITH A FOREWORD BY DAVID NOTON An essential companion for anyone with a camera who is visiting East Anglia. The dramatic landscape and raw beauty of East Anglia is unique, giving photographic opportunities not found anywhere else in the UK. Its coastline is home to marshes, sandy beaches and dunes, beach huts and old harbours filled with boats. Nature reserves allow access to some of the best birdwatching in the UK. Inland, the fens, heaths, villages, waterways and woodlands inspired the paintings of John Constable and Thomas Gainsborough. You will find medieval castles, ancient villages, stately homes and the historic cities of Cambridge and Norwich. The Broads National Park is an extensive wetland area where under big East Anglian skies, windmills and windpumps look over a timeless landscape of reed beds and grazing marshes. In this photo-location and visitor guidebook, Justin Minns, an award-winning photographer and local to the area, takes you on a journey around the old kingdom of East Anglia so that you can make the most of your visit and take the best photographs, whether you are using a high-end DSLR or a mobile phone camera.

FEATURING:

• 150+ locations and over 800 beautiful photographs • Topographic maps and co-ordinates • Accessibility notes • Best times and seasonal highlights • Sun compass • Photographic tips For information about all our photo-location guidebooks visit:

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£27.95


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