A Rolling Country Kitchen

A yellow train car glides across the coastline, cheered along by yellow flags rustling in the Ariake sea breeze. You sip some black tea and enjoy a bite of roll cake as the hushed sounds of waves on the shore wash over your ears. Through the window to your left: sunlight scatters across the ocean expanse, stretching far into the horizon. Turning inland, Mt. Fugen-dake looms in the green distance. A layer of mist wreathes her peak. A lunch of stewed pork and cream soup is served while the subdued rumbling of the train car continues on, meandering towards the castletown of Shimabara.

The Shimabara Peninsula, or hanto, is one of Kyushu’s most under-appreciated gems, located about an hour and a half outside of Nagasaki City. The hanto is home to three main areas: Unzen, Shimabara, and Minami-Shimabara. Each location offers tourists something special. Visitors can hike through the Unzen-Amakusa National Park and spend the night in a forest cabin. In MinamtiShimabara, guests can sunbathe on Maehama Beach and unwind at the Masago hotspring. In Shimabara, sightseers can tour Shimabara Castle and stroll along the “Samurai Street.”

The Shimatetsu Café Train is a unique way to tour the natural beauty of the Shimabara Peninsula from the comfort of a passenger car. On board the peninsula’s sole traveling café, you can enjoy savory local cuisine and mouthwatering desserts. A dedicated train attendant will act as your guide, providing facts about local landmarks and introducing the names and ingredients of each dish served.

Among the varied food options are: stewed Unzen pork, “tea-infused” carbonara, chestnut Mont Blanc, fresh-made caramel, ginger pudding, strawberry frozen yogurt, camembert roll cake, and more. The café menu changes depending on the season, allowing for different dining experiences throughout the year. As the journey lasts two hours (one way) starting from Isahaya Station and ending at Shimabara Station, customers can enjoy dining at a leisurely pace.

While approaching Omisaki Station (the only stop to be made during the trip), the tracks run closer to the sea than most other lines in Japan. Around the station, locals will tie yellow flags to ropes and pray for happiness. It is believed that the yellow flags will bring luck to those who write their wishes upon them. The golden-yellow cloth fluttering by the sea provides a great photo opportunity while you take in the hanto’s splendor.

The cost of a one-way ticket is 5,500 yen for adults, 3,500 for children (ages 7-12), and 1,000 for children 6 and under. When purchasing a ticket at Isahaya Station, you can choose between the lunch course or the tea sweets only course. Every ticket allows for a free tour of Shimabara Castle and Shimeisho Spring Water Garden. After getting off at the last stop, you can easily access these sites (and they are definitely worth a visit).

So, if the Ariake breeze is calling your name and you’d like to escape the city life for a taste of the countryside, then the Shimatetsu Café Train is your ticket to foodie paradise.

TEXT: Kane Pride

PHOTOS: Shimatetsu Railway Co.