ARITA PORCELAIN PARK: Checkered and Mate

Text and images: Flipi Poggenpoel

It’s quiet in the hall while soft light streams in through the ceiling-high win- dows. Periodically I can hear a cough, someone mumbling to themselves, or the deep clink of ceramics. In front of me is a gorgeous collection of 32 pieces on a black and white checkered board. I’m playing in my first chess tournament, the 2nd An- nual Arita Porcelain Park Chess Taikai. My opponent picks up a marble white pawn and puts it down two squares up the board.

Coming back from South Africa in January 2019, my luggage contained a large, heavy, wooden chess set which my aunt and uncle brought back from Tanzania many years ago. I had always found the game slightly alluring, but only upon setting up the board in my Omura City apartment did the time and place combine to let my interest bloom. In January 2020 I finally had the chance to attend an over-theboard competition in Japan. There were many surprises in store for me that day, not the least of which was a new appreciation for good ceramic craftsmanship.

The tournament was hosted in Arita, inside the somewhat out of place Zwinger Palace. Built in a European style, the palace towers over the back end of the Arita Porcelain Park. It’s hard to miss, and likely all visitors walk across its moat, through the entry arch and out into the gardens and field behind. I had done this very same walk myself, but previously I had no real idea what was taking place inside the building. As it turned out, the Zwinger Palace is an art gallery that most frequently displays pieces of ceramic craftsmanship from the local artisans and continues the legacy of a strong export brand from just over our prefecture’s border.

Arita porcelain was well-known in earlier days, exported as a highly sought-after product by Europeans and other customers with the money to buy it. Over the years it has seeped into many overseas markets, as a good friend of mine found while visiting Taiwan recently. Sitting in a cafe, her drink was served in a vessel with smooth lines, consistent texture, and a warm, unassuming color. To her delight, she found that the piece was, in fact, an Arita export. As a former ALT from Arita, this seems to have been a fated reunion for her.

As I sit and write this, I unconsciously eye my own cup. I may not know much about the making of Arita Touki (pottery) yet, but I can fully appreciate how a great set of ceramic ware, my personal preferences being mugs, can add warmth to any moment of the day. On the day of our tournament, we had 9 boards, with 18 uniquely inspired designs.

For those interested in the Arita Porcelain Park, I highly recommend a visit. There is a shop with other local produce as well, from sake to snacks, and a buffet lunch restaurant that I plan to go eat at again really soon. More information can be found at their official website (www. arita-touki.com). The ceramic chess sets we played with were the work of Chess Jewel (チェジェル) which you can look up at chejewel.com.

If you’re interested in playing chess yourself, then I’d recommend reaching out to the Nagasaki or Imari chess clubs: imari-chess.jimdofree.com higashiyamate-chikyukan.com