HASAMIYAKI: Porcelain dream

TEXT: Deidre Foley

IMAGES: Hasami Town Tourist Info

Away from the hustle and bustle of city life, nestled between mountains, lies the small town of Hasami. Residents enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of Nagasaki’s only landlocked town. Tourists are drawn to the cute cafes, relaxing onsen, and most of all, the prominent and historic pottery industry.

The pottery produced in Hasami is called Hasamiyaki (波佐見焼), or Hasami ware. Items from here are known for their high quality, practical nature, and reasonable prices. This reputation dates back to the beginnings of Hasamiyaki, about 400 years ago, when production was focused on making items for the average citizen’s daily use. Many of these pieces were sold at affordable prices compared to porcelain pottery from neighbouring towns. In other words, it was pottery for the people. Even today, the Hasami junior high and elementary schools use Hasamiyaki bowls and plates for their school lunch!

Hasamiyaki doesn’t have one uniform look, though it is always unified in its material: porcelain. The porcelain is white, whereas clay is often a terracotta brown or gray. Many also say that porcelain is more difficult to work with than other clays. The material is common to other pottery styles from nearby towns, such as Imari or Arita (both in the neighboring Saga Prefecture). There are some popular traits in Hasamiyaki, although they by no means define the style overall: stackable items (especially mugs) and paintings drawn in indigo. Historically, Hasamiyaki was produced in several climbing kilns (登り窯) around town. These kilns were made by digging a hole into the hillside, and the kiln “climbs” up the hill. Although they are no longer in use today, a few remain standing throughout the town. The most well-known may be the remains of the Nakao Climbing Kiln (中尾上登窯跡), which is the world’s second-largest climbing kiln. It is 160-meters long and overlooks the historic pottery district of Nakaoyama.

A little more centrally-located is Hasami Ceramics Park, or Yakimono Park (やき もの公園). Akin to an open-air museum, it features recreations of 12 kilns from around the world. Nearby is the Hasami Tourist Exchange Center, which houses a small exhibition about the history of pottery, as well as a sizable shop of Hasamiyaki from myriad local artists and companies.

Another great chance to pick up some Hasamiyaki is at the 62nd annual Hasami Ceramics Festival (波佐見陶器まつり), which is quickly approaching during Golden Week (April 29 to May 5). The festival is mainly held at Yakimono Park, with a smaller setup at the Hasami-Arita Interchange. In total, over 100 vendors come together and sell their work, often marked down as much as 30% to 40% from the original price. Such steep discounts attract people from around the region, with attendance exceeding 300,000 visitors for the past two years.

Although Hasami is accessible by bus, it’s easiest to get to by car. There is limited parking at the event so it is best to carpool and arrive early.