World jeans paper

WORLD JEANS PAPER

ISSUE 1 FREE PAPER CREATED BY AMSTERDAM FASHION INSTITUE DEPARTMENT BRANDING

INTRODUCTION

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The main question of World Jeans Paper is: who wears what?

But most importantly why?

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World Jeans Paper

Jeans is an internationally comprehension. This indigo blue garment has left his mark on the many different cultures around the world. In this first World Jeans Paper, you can find all the information about different jeans brands, which are internationally known and established.

This portable paper provides a short but detailed and global overview of the worldwide jeans market. Explaining their origin, story, as well as their branding strategy and retail environment.

Many different design labelled jeans have been analyzed and all their specific characteristics are written down in this edition.

The position of the jeans brands in the market in relationship with customers is very important. The goal of World Jeans Paper is to analyse how the brands do this in real life, because than it becomes clear what the brands strategies are and can be used in different ways for professionals in the fashion world.

INDEX

1, 2, 3

4, 5

14

15, 16, 17, 18, 19 13

11, 12 21

6

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COLOFON World Jeans Paper EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Malou Wüstefeld & Loïs Palm CREATIVE DIRECTION Malou Wüstefeld, Loïs Palm, Anneloes van der Vinne, Claudia Brok IMAGE EDITOR Naomi Fassaert WORDS Daan Bak, Nicole Dekkers, Nikki Neervens, Charlotte Elzinga, Naomi Fassaert, Loïs Palm, Yoeri Jonker, Anneloes van der Vinne, Claudia Brok INTRODUCTION Anneloes van der Vinne, Nikki Neervens, Charlotte Elzinga TEKST EDITOR Nicole Dekkers, Nikki Neervens, Charlotte Elzinga, Yoeri Jonker

STYLING PHOTOSHOOT Claudia Brok PHOTOGRAPHY & EDITING Anneloes van der Vinne PRINT MANAGER Daan Bak SOURCE EDITING Claudia Brok GRAPHIC DESIGN Malou Wüstefeld & Loïs Palm INTERVIEW Yoeri Jonker, Claudia Brok, Naomi Fassaert PUBLISHER World Jeans Paper B.V. info@worldjeanspaper.com www.worldjeanspaper.com

Interview

6-7

North-America 1. Guess 2. True Religion 3. William Rast 4. 3x1 5. PRPS Jeans 6. Levi’s

10 12 14 16 18 20

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11 13 15 17 19 21

North-Europe 7. Cheap Monday 8. Acne 9. Nudie Jeans 10. Pepe Jeans

24 26 28 30

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25 27 29 31

Central-Europe 11. Dsquared2 12. Stone Island 13. Diesel 14. Lois Denim 15. Denham 16. Cars 17. Blue Blood 18. Scotch & Soda 19. Intoxica

34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50

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35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 51

Australia 20. Ksubi

54 - 55

Azia 21. Edwin

58 - 59

Segmentation

60 - 62

Conclusion

63

Resources

64 - 73

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10

7, 8

9

INTERVIEW Name: Carlo Raats • Date of birth: 12-19-1988 • Place of birth: Den Bosch, The Netherlands • Work: Jeans specialist Gstar, Den Bosch, The Netherlands Interview by: Claudia de Brok, Yoeri Jonkers and Naomi Fassaert

During my intership at Scotch & Soda, I developed a passion for denim. Within the years, jeans became more part of my life. With the knowledge and experiences I became a real jeans specialist.

2. What attracts you to denim?

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What attracted me the most to denim is the authenticity and the character of the product. It is comparable to a diary: every wear and tear becomes a memory.

3. Which ingredients make the perfect pair of jeans?

To my personal opinion craftsmanship and choice in materials are the most important aspects to creating a great pair of jeans. It is simply important that a fair amount of time and love is spent to create them. For instance, the production of a normal pair of jeans takes 16 minutes per pair. This is from the moment we create the fiber to the point where you can actually wear it. On the other hand, it takes three hours and more passion to produce Selvedge Ring spun denim. Evidentially, the quality is better.

4. What are the most current and innovative developments in the world of Denim?

There is a lot of time spent on sustainability and the aspect of green manufacturing. For some brands it is even their primary and most important selling point. Nudie Jeans released a 100% organic collection this year, while G-Star has plans of changing 30% of their production to green manufacturing in 2015.

However, in contrast to that particular fact, G-Star is one of the most innovative brands when it comes to production techniques. Take our Sanforized finish, for instance.

G-Star became the first to sell raw denim to the mainstream market.

5. A lot of brands look back to the history of denim and it’s roots and using words like ‘Heritage’. Is there a specific reason for that?

This was initiated by brands such as Lee and Levi’s. They have had a long history and can actually say something about that time. You could even say that Levi’s has had a monopoly on heritage since 1930.

6. How important is the presence of branding within the world of denim?

Very important! People no longer exclusively search for a pair of jeans. It is also about the image of the company and the experience and knowledge that is definitely needed for creating a pair of jeans.

Something the customer finds to be important.

7. If we look at the branding, designs and populairity of the current jeans brands.

Can you tell us the difference between now and 10 years back?

Well, new jeans brands rise and fall every year and although every brand aspires to be authentic, few actually achieve that. It is a difficult task when almost everything has already been done and not many have the expertise needed to become successful, something that you would not have seen 10 years ago. Despite of the fact that brands keep seeking ways to be innovative, people do not want the brand to change too much.

It has to stay recognizable.

Brand loyalty is one of the defining characteristics of the contemporary consumer.

8. Is there a gap in the market, a specific type of customer, that is not yet targeted?

I am afraid not. Although denim is still a hot item and will probably always be a significant part of what fashion is, the diversity is simply too high.

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1. What was the reason you had decided to become a jeans specialist?

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NORTH AMERICA

NEW YORK

GUESS JEANS Name of the brand: GUESS JEANS • Founded in: Los Angeles, USA, 1981 • Established by: The Marciano brothers.

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Theory

For Guess the inspirations for their jeans come from real men and women, something that fits the vision of ‘we feel connected with our customers’. Because Guess stayed so close to its customer, Guess created the ability to produce what the customer wants. Guess has always been trying to be on the forefront of style, and is considered an icon of style.

The brand is trying to deliver their products and services of uncompromising quality and integrity, consistent with the brand and their image.

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love”. Guess advertises in nearly every major magazine worldwide, on billboards and other communication channels. However not only the advertisements, but also a lot of models such as Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell made Guess famous. Guess also uses various social media, for example Facebook, Flickr, Twitter and Youtube. They also have a page on their website where you can post a photo of you and your Guess jeans.

Fashion environment

Claudia Schiffer for Guess 2012

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Language

The campaigns of Guess are iconic and have a worldwide reach.

Guess promises the customers consistent integrity with the brand and the image.

The Guess advertisements are very well known and recognizable. The black and white image of the Guess model has become a pop culture icon in the fashion history. Forbes described the advertisements as “catering to teenage cravings for sex, power, attention and self-

Amber Heard for Guess 2012

Ethnic group

Guess serves men, women, children and babies. The Guess man is tough; he looks like a cowboy or a marine in their campaigns. The biggest ethnic group of Guess are women between 18-28. Guess describes its ethnic group as; ‘The Guess girl is edgy, sexy, confident and loves to be looked at’. However, the ethnic group ‘women’ can also be divide in three groups; teenage girls, young college women in their twenties and women in their early thirties.

Guess flagshipstore USA

Roots

The Marciano brothers established Guess in 1981.

The style of the designs of the Marciano brothers is considered timeless, sensuous, strong and chic. The jeans model that made them famous was the 3-zip Marilyn. It was a stonewashed, slim-fit pair of jeans. Bloomingdale’s was the first department store that ordered two dozen of the 3-zip Marilyn jean. Within hours the entire stock has been sold out. This was the beginning of a long success story.

Guess jeans

Guess campaign summer 2012

Text by: Charlotte Elzinga, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Jeans detail

Guess considerers itself as sexy, iconic and sensual so are their jeans.

Their style is very American, but the jeans are defined by a European passion for cut, fit and great attention to detail. Most of the jeans for women are tight and the rise is usually low. The brand divides their jeans into four categories; Boot, Fashion, Skinny and Straight. All four models have their own style and fitting. What all jeans have in common is the Guess label with a question mark in it. The price of a pair of jeans varies between €89 - 180.

Guess has retail stores all over the world, but the majority of its stores are located in the United States and Canada. The brand sells its merchandise through its own Guess outlets and flagship stores, but also in several retail and department stores. The colour red is also very common in the shops, which stand for love and passion. Furthermore, Guess has its own web shop and is available at many other big web shops.

TRUE RELIGION In case of that they do not have a ethnic grothat they want to approach, True Religion aims for celebrities who do not mind spending a fair amount of money for jeans. The tone of voice of their campaigns is always romantic, with the casted models having an introspective moment or looking nonchalantly in the camera. In the beginning, when the brand did not sell, owner Lubell reached out to sales staff of the short selling stores and gave them a free pair, under the condition of wearing it in store all the time. The strategy has certainly paid off, as the jeans are regularly spotted in TV shows such as MTV’s “The Hills” and ABC’s “Grey’s Anatomy.” In March 2008, True Religion announced the launch of its consumer print advertising campaign, which was its first significant

Theory

True Religion wants to produce jeans that are timeless, have a great fitting, quality with a trendsetting appeal to today’s consumers.

The old cowboy look has been revised by the brand, making it more contemporary and ‘bohemian’, as the brand calls it. True Religion is very careful in its decisions concerning licensing. Quality control is one of the focus points, second is innovation, with respect to innovative design, superior quality control and the hippie mantra’s/core values ‘Peace’ & ‘Love’.

Ethnic group

Instead of focusing on age, the brand focuses on fashion consciousness. They are affluent customers who shop in their own branded retail stores, selected boutiques and specialty stores. They want to wear and seen in fashionable premium jeans and related apparel. The reached ethnic group is proud of owning a True Religion jeans, and through that pride, a sense of overdesigning comes to the surface. The brand is therefore seen as an innovative and quality driven brand, but as well a brand that might come off as overexposed and loud.

True Religion store

Roots

Bohemian, jeans and chic, if one word would not fit the list, which one would it be?

The answer is quite simple; it is none of the above. In the winter of 2002 Jeffrey Lubell founded True Religion with the intention of redefining premium denim, bringing the almost Bhuddist ambience to America in the form of jeans.

With his innovative vision, he achieved what would later become a new look for jeans.

marketing investment aimed to increase brand awareness.

Their campaigns, which always have a man and a woman placed in a romantic setting, have run in publications such as Vogue, Vanity Fair, Elle, Lucky, Maxim, GQ, Gotham, and LA Confidential. November saw the appearance of True Religion advertising on New York City billboards, buses, and taxis.

True Religion store

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True Religion Fall collection 2012

Text by: Yoeri Jonker, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Language

Fashion environment

The atmosphere of the retail environment is very laid back, while bringing the “he is a little bit country, she is a little bit rock and roll” feeling combined with an all American cowboy esthetic that works best in the United States. To compensate for this rather present look and feel, the

clothes are neatly placed within structured closets.

Retail stores are located in the more expensive areas of America, with certain outlet stores spread over Europe, located in Germany, The Netherlands, Belgium and England. These stores have a more modern feel, though still keeps that western/bohemian look as the blueprint. The location in wealthier areas is done with the idea that the price of the products is high.

Customers should feel like they do not have to go to some shady burrow to buy their jeans. With so many replicas on the black market, it is both a statement as reinsurance of authenticity.

Shops and e-shops that want to sell the jeans, have to be located in the same sort of areas.

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There are two things that make this brand different from other jeans brands. First the manner of stitching, the most distinct feature. It is a detail in design that is highly visible and a part of the identity. The stitching in True Religion jeans is thicker, there will be more threads used than comparable jeans brands, to realize higher visibility. True Religion was the first who named their jeans models. The names are ‘All American’, which fits the mental brand identity.

For example, popular model types are ‘Joey’, ‘Bobby’, ‘Sammy’ and ‘Nathan’. The least expensive model is the ‘Leo Simple Jean’ and the most expensive is the ‘Ricky Old Multi Super QT Jean’.

Prices of the jeans range from €170-370, depending on the amount of production time spent on stitching and therefore how detailed the jeans are.

Jeans detail

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Name of the brand: True Religion • Founded in: California, USA, 2002 • Established by: Jeffrey Lubel

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Name of the brand: William Rast • Founded in: Los Angeles, USA, 2005 • Founded by: Justin Timberlake and Trace Alaya

Jeans detail

Text by: Yoeri Jonker, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Language

The advertising of William Rast is far different from other brands with a famous celebrity as co-founder. The William Rast label have used Timberlake very carefully in their marketing campaigns, perhaps realizing that the peak of celebrity ‘designers’ has passed. The brand choose to advertise in Teen Vogue, Elle, Nylon and People, which are magazines that also focus on music and have the same target group as the brand.

Though the brand thinks it is innovative for its viral films and social media strategies, it is nothing new. It captures the imagination and gives a clear view of who William Rast is.

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William Rast campaign

Jeans detail

There is nothing truly special about the jeans, except the back pocket detail. The brand logo is stitched in the back pocket of every jean. For most of the jeans in a contrasting colour, except for the black jeans, which have black stitches. This is different from other brands, which patches a label on the back pocket or have a tag in the belt area. At William Rast, it is something that is processed into the pair of jeans, not something the brand attached at the end of the process on the jeans.

The names of the model types, for example Jackson and Jake, have a Memphis feel to them. It fits the brand.

The brand has jeans for men and women. For women, it has straight, boot cut, skinny, flared and ankle cuts. The colours of the washes range from light to dark blue and it even has a few white and black coloured jeans. For men, it has mostly straight cuts but also boot cut and skinny jeans. The fits are regular too loose and the colours are light as dark blue. Prices vary from €90-170.

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WILLIAM RAST

William Rast aims at the contemporary younger demographic and the more rebellious market that prefers a more cooler and raw look. This younger people, mainly kids, teenagers and tweenagers, know that it is Justin’s brand. This makes that its aim is sharp, because they actually reach this market with ease. The customers like music, fashion and are mostly of the time big fans of Justin Timberlake.

William Rast store

The brand utilizes a discriminative distribution.

In the United States, the company distributes its merchandise to luxury department stores and boutiques, including Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales, Lisa Klein and Fred Segal. Their own stores visualise the ‘New-American’ look and Memphis sensibility shown in campaigns. Outside America, its products are sold to better department stores and boutiques in Canada and Europe. The company also sells merchandise on its website.

William Rast store

Fashion environment

Ethnic group

William Rast campaign

Theory

Mission of the brand is to embody the new American biker culture, reborn into an all American freedom fighter called William Rast. Even though the person is fictional, the brand identity is not.

William Rast is captured in all the communication towards their target group. There are not many brands that have a fictional person as focus point

for their vision and mission.

But it works, since it makes the brand come to life. Rast is defined by confidence, freedom and certain rawness.

William Rast campaign

Roots

What do you get when you combine two childhood friends, a Los Angeles state of mind and add a hint of rural utilitarianism, a dash of urban sophistication and mix that with a few shots of SexyBack? William Rast. The brand is founded by Trace Alaya and co-founded by Justin Timberlake in 2005 and started with the idea of sharing their Memphis sensibility with the world of denim.

transparency

3x1

value uniqueness

Name of the brand: 3X1 • Founded in: New York, USA, 2010 • Established by: Scott Morrison

Text by: Anneloes van der Vinne, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

The price of a “normal” pair of jeans is in the range of €173 270. Prices of a bespoken pair of jeans begin at €920, and there is a €95 non-refundable deposit required to make an appointment.

Language

Fashion environment

Ethnic group Article of trade

Despite of 3x1 offering men and women denim, the brand is not cut out for everyone. The products of the brand are delivered in limited editions. The denim products themselves are each in limited-edition style.

As said before, the brand also offers a bespoke denim service, allowing patrons to work individually with Morrison and his pattern maker to make a pair of jeans that fits the needs of the customer.

3x1 tries, with their unique and personal experience, to target people who love jeans and are interested in the whole process off a pair of jeans. This group wants to be involved in designing their jeans.

3x1 creates the world’s first denim atelier and, introduces the first luxury denim brand.

The brand presents something never seen before in retail, a concept which combines manufacturing and the retail environment. They attach value to transparency and exclusivity, while they educate and inform the customer in a way that has never been done before. All products are made in the atelier, which is housed in three separate glass rooms. Every pair of jeans is produced in a limited quantity of 8, 12, 16 or 24 pieces and is individually numbered. As mentioned before, 3x1 has a made to measure service where customers can design their own one of a kind pair of jeans. The fabric selection

3x1 workspace

consumer is tailored and given the opportunity to create a one of a kind pair of raw or selvage denim jeans by using the highest quality denim from Japan and North Carolina.

3x1 Believes that people love to learn how things are made and that there is something magical about seeing the process itself.

They try to facilitate this vision; 3x1 incorporates each of the processes of design, patternmaking and sewing into their modern gallery/retail/ work space, to give customers a personal denim experience.

Jeans detail

Theory

The 3x1, Right Hand Twill, is defined by transparency and uniqueness with only one location in the Soho neighbourhood, New York City. The Retail, design studio, gallery space and manufacturing all takes place at 15 Mercer Street. With a total of 4.000 square feet of retail and 3.200 square feet of design studio space, 3x1 gives consumers the entire denim cycle from conception, manufacturing to eventually taking a new pair of jeans home. 3x1 creates an environment where each

3X1 store Soho, New York

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Roots

In September 2010, denim designer Scott Morrison announced the launch of his new denim brand 3x1.

The name comes from the standard weaving construction for denim, the 3x1 RHT (Right Hand Twill). The ‘ 3 by 1’ in 3x1 also represents Morrisons’ third concept, establishing of a new jeans brand. Following the success of his first two brands, Morrison sought to create something that could not be replicated, and in the process, capture the uniqueness of New York City, the place he calls home

3x1 jeans presentation

3X1 store Soho, New York

3x1 wants to be exclusive, personal and special, so they want people to reach out to the brand, instead of the brand reaching out for the people. Besides the experience you can encounter in their workspace and store, which is the prominent brand communication, they only use their website to communicate. Here you can

see and buy the products, find information about the brand, their blog, videos or make an appointment for your own pair of bespoken jeans. The jeans are the core of the brand communication, because you can assemble each element of the jeans, by choosing leg shape, back pockets, hardware, thread and buttons.

The communication is also the experience you can feel in the store and workspace, this experience is the main point of the whole communication, because de costumer can see the process and feel the transparency and uniqueness, which are the key elements of the brand.

3x1 ateliers provide a vantage point to experience every nuance of creating exceptional denim, from the personal touch of their tailors to their pattern makers and sewers working behind the glass, each brings a pair of 3x1 jeans to life. The whole store and workspace is, consistent to the idea of the brand, total transparency. You can follow the whole process of each pair of jeans through the window.

3x1 has 700 pairs of jeans in stock (ranging in sizes from 23 - 40), as well as an offering of more than a 100 denim and novelty fabrics for customers who would like to create a custom or bespoken pair of jeans. The brand carries American, Italian, and Japanese denims, many of them exclusively for 3x1.

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offered to customers consists of more than 60 selvedge denims from around the world.

PRPS JEANS

PRPS campaign fall winter 2012

Text by: Daan Bak, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Ethnic group

PRPS store Van Dijk, Waalwijk, The Netherlands

PRPS targets middle age men and women who are well styled. Their ethnic group is well up to date and wants to be different and stand out in the way they look.

The customers of PRPS want clothes with high quality and a nice fit, but also want to look fashionable at the same time.

PRPS Jeans “Brushed Never Broken”

Jeans detail

Label PRPS

Theory

The brand claims that their idea of clothes is based on the experiences and childhood of the founder Donwan Harrell.

This results into a brand with a rich outdoor and vintage or used feel to it. Donwan claims to know the importance of clothes made for a purpose, and wants to bring this back into the modern denim world.

To do this, the brand focuses on a worn-to-utilities theory, which is making the quality and strength significantly important.

Logo PRPS

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Roots

PRPS Jeans is a denim brand from New York, which was founded in 2002 by Donwan Harrell.

The brand says that they have an unique philosophy, which is based on the life experiences of the founder. Harrel grew up living an outdoor lifestyle, coming from hunting and logging family. Harrell says that he learned to appreciate clothing that was made especially for this purpose.

In a later stadium of his childhood, he started a hobby in the drag race industry and travelled around the world.

Harrell claims that these are the most important influences in his life, career and designs.

inspirations of the designers youth. This result into jeans with oil stains, handmade damages, mud and more specific effects. The pair of jeans feels like it has been used in hard labour for many years, but are in fact new.

This principle is symbolised in their slogan: “Brushed, Never Broken”. Because of the claimed high quality of jeans that they produce, the brand positions itself in a high class range. The price varies between €450 - 1000. This does not make the brand very affordable and makes the brand exclusive. Therefor PRPS also launched a less expensive line called “PRPS Goods & Co” to compete with mid-market brands. However with pricing from €140 - 250, PRPS Goods & Co is still an expensive brand.

Language

PRPS rarely advertises or makes commercial campaigns next to their catalogues.

The brand involves itself with social media on a regular base, such as Facebook. By this they are trying to get their customers to get involved with the brand. However, due to their growing popularity, there is an increasing amount of blogs writing about the brand. Magazines such as GQ and Men’s Health pick this up.

The free publicity is making the brand even more popular.

PRPS post photos of celebrities wearing their jeans on the Facebook page and their website. The catalogues that the brand makes are heavily influenced by their philosophy. The look and feel of the book, text, images and layout have a rich outdoor and vintage feeling, this is catalogues a refection of their jeans and brand.

Fashion environment

PRPS only has few stores, but the stores that the brand does have are quite remarkable.

They succeed in incorporating their whole brand philosophy into their stores. PRPS claims that they want to give their store environment a rich vintage and outdoor feeling.

This is accomplished by the use of materials such as eroded wood, sand and stone, which give a nostalgic feeling to the retail environments.

Of course this environment can only be accomplished in a special store or in their own stores.

The majority of the stores where they are selling their clothes are not in one line with the branding strategy, obviously because the brand does not own these stores.

However, the brand only pops up in the more refined and exclusive stores. PRPS does this to make sure that the brand remains its own identity.

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PRPS claims that each item of their collection is designed with a specific purpose in mind.

The brand believes that their jeans are meant to be worn and utilised. Therefore, the brand sees it as their responsibility to deliver the perfect denim in every detail, claiming that they produce one of the finest pair of jeans in the world. This is due to the unique production process of the brand.

They use African cotton to make their jeans. After the cotton is shipped to Japan and woven in small batches on a vintage Levi loom shuttle, the denim has a unique quality and feel according to the brand.

The brand wants to differentiate itself by making high quality denim inspired on their worn and utilise theory and personal

Jeans detail

Article of trade

Name of the brand: PRPS Jeans • Founded in: New York, USA, 2002 • Established by: Donwan Harrell

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Levi’s Curve ID campaign 2011

Text by: Nicole Dekkers, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Theory

The brand wants to be seen as classic American and cool in an effortless demeanor, positioned as the original and definitive jeans brand. Levi’s wants to lead, not follow.

The brand wants to evolve,

driven by its pioneering and innovative spirit. They want to inspire people from different lifestyles, who have a pioneering spirit, to show their individual style. Levi’s believes that clothes can make a difference. The heritage of Levi’s knows two foundations who are committed to improve the lives of those in need and social change. Original, honest, confident and youthful are some of the brand’s core attributes. For Levi’s, sustainability is important, it is embedded in their culture and business.

Ethnic group

Through the broad distribution of Levi’s the brand approach consumers of all ages and lifestyles. They make jeans for everyone. The brand focuses on consumers who

seek high-quality jeans wear and other fashion essentials at affordable prices. Through a number of sub-brands and product lines of Levi’s, they try to target specific consumer segments. For example, the brand targets with their engineered jeans, customers in the age group of 13-24.

Levi’s collaborated with a number of notable design partners. The brand has a

Article of trade

Levi’s offers a broad range of products, including jeans, tops, skirts, jackets, footwear and related accessories. Jeans from Levi’s are affordable.

The price of a pair of jeans varies between € 70 -120.

The design of a Levi’s pocket has become the biggest legal battleground in American fashion. According to Strauss, other brands had stolen the signature denim stitches of Levi’s, details such as two

Levi’s store Amsterdam

Roots

Levi’s is part of Levi Strauss & Co., established in 1853 as a dry-goods wholesale company in San Francisco founded by Levi Strauss. Twenty years later, Levi Strauss and Nevada tailor Jacob Davis created the world’s first jeans when they applied for a patent on the process of putting rivets in pants. This was for strength in response to a need for work clothes during the gold rush.

In the 1950s and 1960s, Levi’s jeans became popular among a wide range of youth subcultures. Denim became a symbol for freedom, selfexpression and youth.

Language

The brand advertises around the world through a broad mix of media, including television, national publications, the Internet, cinema, billboards and posters. They also use other marketing sources, including event and music sponsorships, music videos, leading fashion magazines and alternative marketing techniques, including streetlevel events.

licensee through the Warhol Foundation to re-create images of his pop art on denim. In partnership with Apple, it has created the Levi’s Red Wire DLX jeans, with a docking cradle and retractable headphones compatible with iPods. In November 2009, Levi’s collaborated with the citizens of Braddock, Pennsylvania, with the goal of promoting a line of workwear clothing that harkens back to the brand’s 150-year heritage. Levi’s decided to produce its new Go Forth marketing campaign in Braddock. The campaign features Braddock’s citizens doing real work, the ‘real’ aspect is very important.

Another marketing strategy is the Levi’s Curve ID. The brand observed 60,000 women

worldwide. The result was that there is not the perfect body but there is the perfect jeans fit. They designed jeans to fit based on shape, not size.

Levi’s Curve ID makes buying Levi’s more personal.

Music is often part of Levi’s marketing strategy, because they believe it inspires a larger amount of people than any other art form. The brand uses old recordings of popular music in television commercials. Levi’s has also teamed up with Spotify and Clash magazine to get music fans involved in co-creating a live event, called Levi’s Craft Of Music.

Fashion environment

The brand sells in many cities.

They want the city to be a part of the store. Levi’s opened a store in Amsterdam with the idea that the store represents Levi’s as well as Amsterdam. Maurizio Donadi of Levi’s decided to place banks out of churches in the store. These banks are used as show tables for the different jeans. Next to jeans, there are also other products for sale in the store such as Levi’s sneakers, shirts, blouses and belts. The company sells their clothing in more than 110 countries through three geographic divisions: North America, Europe and Asia Pacific, so you can say that Levi’s has quite a wide distribution.

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Name of the brand: Levi’s • Founded in: San Fransisco, USA, 1853 • Established by: Levi Strauss

Jeans detail Levi’s

Levi’s features a wide range of jeans lines, including: The Red Tab product line, characterised by their Tab Device trademark. These products are the foundation of the brand, with the classic 501. They encompass a wide range of jeans, offered in a variety of fits, fabrics, finishes and styles to appeal a broad spectrum of consumers.

The Levi’s engineered jeans.

These jeans are ergonomically developed in Europe, to fit the body’s contours. They also have a three dimensional shape, the company believe they provide innovative design, unique style, superior comfort and ease of movement.

Levi’s store Amsterdam

LEVI’S

The Silvertab products, offers a more fashion-forward product range featuring technologically advanced fabrics, such as microfiber, nylon rib stops, “oily” canvas and innovative finishes for denim jeans.

Levi’s store Amsterdam

intersecting arcs and the red Tab Device, a fabric tab stitched into the back right pocket.

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NORTH EUROPE

SWEDEN

CHEAP MONDAY

Article of trade

The best known details of Cheap Mondays’ jeans are the skull logo and the unisex, super- stretch, skinny fit ‘tight unwashed jeans. The jeans have a higher percentage of stretch in the denim to keep them slim, yet comfortable.

Besides regular jeans, the brand also sells chino’s, casual jeans and raw denims with no washes.

Jeans customized by nature

Christian statement because of the many wars in history. In January 2012 Cheap Monday changed the logo in more religious countries, because the logo could have been the cause of furious response, which in term could be a reason for retailers to drop the brand. Cheap Monday replaced the inverted crucifix for a single line.

Ethnic group

The ethnic group of Cheap Monday are men and women between 15 - 25 years old that stay away from everything average. The characteristics of this group are young, creative and trendy. This group looks for adventure and loves second hand clothing. They seek alternative fashion items for a cheap price, to create an individual look.

shows. Through the website, you can always stay up to date. In 2012 Cheap Monday opened a digital ‘Sneak Peak Shop’, which shows the new collection before the catwalk show has taken place. On the original Cheap Monday web shop the brand uses photos of models wearing clothes.

On those photos the heads of the models are removed with Photoshop. The focus is on the clothing; this is the most important thing, not the models.

Fashion environment

Flagshipstore Copenhagen

Theory

Cheap Monday believes that it can compete with the high-end brands, on fashion level and quality. They are influenced by the streets and mix this with inspiration from the catwalk. Cheap Monday is basic, rebellious with a punk touch, but also wants to play fair and humble. They want to effort high quality for a cheap price between €50 – 80. The brand is located in the lower segment of the jeans market.

Cheap Monday can now be found in more than 35 countries. The brand sells in more than 1800 stores all over the world. In the Netherlands we can only find the brand in shop-in-shops or web shops.

The logo made by Bjorn Atldax and Karl Grandin can be seen as the most typical visual of the brand and sets the tone for all communication.

The logo, a skull with inverted crucifix, was meant as an anti

Flagshipstore Copenhagen

Roots

Cheap Monday was originally a second hand clothing shop based in Sweden. In 2000 Örjan Andersson, Adem Friberg and two other friends opened this shop in Stockholm. The store was called Weekend, because it was only open during Saturdays and Sundays. The store was a great success and they decided to call it Weekday. Weekday sold high fashion and exclusive denim brands mixed with second hand clothing. Some of the jeans were very expensive, and there was a need for cheaper but still fashionable so ‘Cheap Monday‘ was born.

It was an immediate success and in January 2005 Cheap Monday was developed into a full-scale collection. In 2008 Cheap Monday collaborated with H&M.

Spring Summer collection 2013

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Spring Summer collection 2013

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Cheap Monday communicates without traditional marketing, but has a strong view about the way the brand presents itself to the world. They are active on blogs and social media as, twitter and Facebook. The skull logo and website is the most important manner of communication for Cheap Monday. The website is clear and organize. Everything you want to know about the brand can be found on it, for instance the new arrivals, catalogues and fashion

The flagship store located in the centre of Copenhagen is a big Cheap Monday shop, which is trendy and young.

This store has an industrial look because they use heavy and raw materials like metal and wood. Dark colours also enhance the feeling of being in an old factory. This design is consistent with the concept of Cheap Monday. The retail of Cheap Monday is quite masculine. When entering the store, you have a total shopping experience of Cheap Monday.

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Cheap Monday carries a main collection for men and women.

This is a three in-season collection. The brand has strict rules concerning quality and safety and focuses on the environment and their labour.

They try to involve nature into branding, for example ‘customized by nature’. The team of Cheap Monday places jeans in the nature on three different locations in Sweden.

After a year, the pants are shaped and created by the weather and all have their different story. The brand never use PVC, marino wool, fur or feathers. The brand only uses skin from stocks reared for meat production.

Jeans detail

Name of the brand: Cheap Monday • Founded in: Stockholm, Zweden, 2000 • Established by: Örjan Andersson & Adem Friberg

collective

artdisciplines

ACNE Name of the brand: Acne • Founded in: Stockholm, Sweden, 1996 • Established by: Mr. Johansson

clean

Text by: Nicole Dekkers, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Ethnic group

The typical Acne customer is a well educated person, whether young or old, who is inspired by and admires art as much as they do understand the art of designing. This customer is someone who is interested in the brand’s lifestyle and design aesthetics and has a broad interest in fashion, art, furniture, music and lifestyle.

The quality and silhouette of the clothing is what triggers the target audience. This ‘Acne person’ will also value soft colours, clean sober design and impeccable craftsmanship.

Article of trade

Jeans detail Acne

Acne Paper

Language

Acne Store London, UK

Theory

The Acne style, fairly generic and based on classic jeans and work style, is in fact a mash-up of influences from music, film and other disciplines. Acne always tries to combine art and industry in a manner that felt logical.

Mr. Johansson, founder of Acne, compared his work to that of a musician, creating an emotion through colour and variations of fit rather than notes and melody. He believes Acne’s clothing is functional and related to architecture.

He calls it graphic, not minimal. Every item should be considered as a piece of art.

Acne looks back at history and tries to do something modern and new. They want to offer accessible luxury, but do not want Acne to be super mega by high accessibility.

Acne store London, UK

Roots

Acne, which stands for “Ambition to Create Novel Expression”, started as a creative collective in Stockholm in 1996, with four creative individuals who each had a different field of expertise. The ambition of Acne was to create and develop a lifestyle brand through the production of desirable products, as well as helping others build their brands. This led to different assignments in advertising, graphic design and film production. In 1997 the collective branched out into fashion by accident, by creating 100 pairs of unisex jeans, which were given away to family and friends.

They were featured in the Swedish Elle and became the foundations of Acne Jeans, which now sells over 300,000 pairs of jeans a year.

Acne Studios does not advertise or market itself through visual fashion campaigns or communication channels. They simply could not afford it at the beginning.

Instead, the label brands itself through its bi-annual magazine Acne Paper. Acne Paper covers the disciplines of art, fashion, photography, design, architecture, academia and culture. Each issue is based on a theme. The founder of Acne calls it their “crown jewel”. In their magazine they show what the brand talks about every time they do a collection, and during the creative process that is never shown in the clothing.

They prefer to invest in new products, such as Acne Paper, rather advertise in the traditional manner.

Acne collaborated with different participants within the creative industry. For example, they collaborated with couture house Lanvin in 2008 on a denim-based capsule collection. Acne also launched a furniture line of sofas based on Swedish furniture designer’s Carl Malmsten’s sofa Nya Berlin in September 2010.

Fashion Environment

Acne’s products are sold in more than 650 stores spread over 40 countries. Amsterdam even has an Acne Studio (Acne stores are known as studios). They try to recreate the atmosphere of a working creative space in their stores to the idea of Andreas Fornell. The brand want to make the customer feel comfortable, while offering a taste of something new and unexpected. The jeans in the studio are presented in a big squared closet. The rest of the clothes are shown on a clothing rack. In the centre of the shop is a table, which displays shoes, Acne Paper and other stuff.

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Campaign Acne Resort 2013

Acne is alone in cultivating an image as something more than another jeans brand.

Beyond its basic five-pocket jeans with red stitching, Acne makes blazers, dresses from sweatshirt material, trim blazers and T-shirts. The jeans of Acne are known for their simplicity and narrow fit. They are very basic and simple and do not have many details. The washes varies from light to dark, but the most jeans are dark coloured. Despite Acne is not a cheap brand, the price range of Acne jeans is not that high. It varies from €150 - 280.

NUDIE JEANS Article of trade

Theory

The concept of Nudie Jeans Co. is based on ‘The Naked Truth About Denim’. With this slogan they want to show their love for denim. The brand believes that there is no fabric that ages quite as beautifully as denim. The longer you wear your jeans, the more character and attitude they acquire. They also believe that jeans and music share the same soul and attitude.

The spirit of music is very

important in their approach in the business. They are not looking for fly-by-night fads; they will always stay true to jeans. Their inspiration comes far from the world of glamour and catwalks. The prices of the jeans are between €100 - 300, so the prices are not really fly-by-night either and you have to pay quite some money to create your personal jeans.

Ethnic group

The people they are aiming at are young men at the age of 20-35. They are music lovers, and music is an important aspect of their lives. These men have a carefree attitude and want to explore the world.

The target group of Nudie Jeans Co. must understand and embrace the passion for denim, like the brand does.

Nudie Jeans

Jeans detail

The branding of Nudie Jeans Co. has a close relation with music. There are some bands that have a place on their blog or website, such as Band of Horses, Little Dragon, Magic Kids and so on. The brand also invites these bands for openings, stores and parties.

This is a good method to attract their target group, but it is also makes it more specific, since music is very personal. The brand is also a sponsor for different music parties. This is an interactive way to get to know Nudie.

They do not do commercial advertising, because they believe word-of-mouth to be the most rewarding marketing.

Tapping into the fact that genuine denim lovers prefer to discover a product by themselves.

Fashion environment

The brand is international and has stores in over 20 countries. They have flagship stores, shop-in-shops, and the collection can also be bought online. Logically, in the flagship stores you will find the key elements of the brand. Bands that are close to Nudie Jeans often visit the brand stores. Because of that that, the element of music comes to live. The bands that play in these stores fit flawlessly with the brand.

The retail environments of Nudie are quite masculine; there are a lot of dark colours in the stores, it has a modern feeling with white accents, a fixed interior and it is very obvious that their main selling point is denim, as there lies the brand’s focus.

Nudie Jeans store Göteborg, Sweden

Roots

“Your jeans go where you go.

They live your lifestyle.

They get abrasions and scars.

And they bleed.

Just like you.”

Nudie Jeans campaign Fall/Winter 2011

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Nudie Jeans campaign Faal/Winter 2012

Text by: Nikki Neervens, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Gothenburg, Sweden is the place where Nudie Jeans Co. was founded in 2001

by Maria Erixon. She is an ex staff member of the Jeans brand Lee. She took her knowledge and made it into a new jeans brand. The brand has established itself both at home and abroad with an unfussy, trend-defying approach. The brand values convey the naked truth about denim and acknowledge the fact that the history of jeans is closer to rock than fashion.

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The jeans of Nudie Jeans Co. have been 100% organic since FW12. This was a goal they set in 2006 and now have achieved. It was very important for them that all jeans were organic. They are market leaders in this innovative aspect. They get their denim fabrics in Italy and Turkey, because they believe that these two countries make the best denim in the world.

Typical Nudie trademarks are orange stitching in pockets and the funny names of the models like Thin Finn and Slim Jim. These models are an example of their trend-defying approach, because the models are basic and only the quality washing are changing.

Their goal is to make the jeans feel like a second skin, naked and personal. They believe that you will shape your jeans by your lifestyle. This personal aspect is critical in the jeans of Nudie. Dry Selvage is the core of all lines, the heart of their brand. In this collection you can find the values key to the brand, because these jeans are the most personal one.

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Name of the brand: Nudie Jeans Co. • Founded in: Gothenburg, Sweden, 2001 • Established by: Maria Erixon

PEPE JEANS

Ethnic group

The Pepe Jeans customer is individualistic and their are interested in music and sports, but they also think that it is very important to follow the fashion industry.

‘Everything Can be Worn With Denim’ is their philosophy.

They are always striving to be innovative and continuously searching for new, forwardlooking standards and finishes.

Name of the brand: Pepe Jeans • Founded in: London, UK, 1973 • Established by: Nitin, Arun and Milan Shah Text by: Naomi Fassaert and Anneloes van der Vinne, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

inspiration from the world, youth, music and sports. This is reflected in the products of Pepe Jeans, they always have a cool, casual and most important ‘global’ look.

The collection of jeans is large and consists several washes that tell a story to young men woman and kids.

Besides denim, Pepe also sells other apparel, shoes and accessories.

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Pepe Jeans London has a global advertising campaign in all the countries where it is sold. Pepe believes in giving away a consistent brand message across the world.

Music plays a big role for Pepe Jeans. Today, Pepe Jeans has been a part of many important photo shoots and modelling contracts. However, one of the most significant may be the launch of the (now world-known model) Kate Moss career, who had her first advertising contract by Pepe Jeans. Christiano Ronaldo, and Sienna Miller have been modelling for the Pepe Jeans campaigns. Another interesting fact is that Pepe Jeans launched a line inspired

by Andy Warholl called “Andy Warholl by Pepe Jeans” in 2012.

Pepe jeans store

Fashion environment

Pepe Jeans launched its internationally styled, high street fashion inspired store at Linking Road, Khar in 2012.

As mentioned before, they also have a store located at Portobello Road Market, West London and at Kings Road, London. This new Pepe Jeans store provides a vibrant source of pioneering youth culture and the perfect gateway to an all-new experience of fashion. Other ways of selling their clothing is through sample sales and multi-brand stores.

William Rast campaign

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Pepe jeans

Theory

Pepe Jeans considers itself as the biggest casual wear brand in the United Kingdom, which is competing with the rest of the world. The vision of Pepe Jeans is ‘youth with a strong attitude’. The brand takes its inspiration from the youth and follows their needs by getting to know their lifestyle.

Pepe jeans store

American market at its feet, Pepe Jeans seduces major European countries to buy their denim.

Pepe Jeans Fall/Winter 2012

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Roots

Pepe Jeans started as a weekend roadside stall by the three brothers Nitin, Arun and Milan Shah in 1973.

Their shop was located at Portobello Road Market, West London. Before they started the brand, Nitin worked for a petrol station and was spotted by a man named Shantilal Parmar, who ran a jeanswear business. Shantilal Parmar took Nitin from the petrol station to work for him, where he learned all about the Jeanswear industry, fabrics, stitching, washes, packaging and marketing. Nitin and his two brothers started their own company, Sholemay Ltd., trading as Pepe Jeans.

With the expansion of their business, the brothers opened a Pepe Jeans boutique at Kings Road, London. They expanded and by the 1980’s they were one of the most successful British fashion brands in the U.S. With the

William Rast campaign

Pepe Jeans Fall/Winter 2012

Pepe jeans thinks it is important to leave a good impression on their customers.

It is not just the fit, but all the brand values and brand aspirations that makes Pepe products so comfortable.

The brand always keeps a close watch on the global market and response on their customers. They get

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CENTRAL EUROPE

ITALY

DSQUARED2 JEANS Name of the brand: Dsquared2 • Founded in: Milan, Italy, 1994 • Established by: Dean & Dan Caten Text by: Daan Bak, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Ethical group

Dsquared2 targets men and women who are in their mid twenties to mid thirties and are not afraid to amaze, but at the same time want to be sophisticated. These men and women are strong individuals who want to wear clothes with a distinct look and high quality. The price of a pair of jeans varies between €300 600. This makes Dsquared2 exclusive.

Due to the price range, the jeans are not affordable for a large group of customers. However, Dsquared2 also started producing a perfume, attracting a wider range of customers.

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Detail Dsquared jeans Dsquared2 shock advertisement summer 2008

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Theory

According to the brand, their philosophy is based on an intelligent mix of the original Canadian wit and refined Italian tailoring, which together with attention to detail are the foundation of Dsquared2. The brand is known for being chic and sophisticated, while remaining sexy and provocative at the same time.

The philosophy of Dsquared2 is also based on the roots and living areas of the designers. Dean & Dan claim their inspiration comes from continuous traveling, explaining their brand motto: “Born in Canada, living in London, made in Italy”.

Fashion environement

Dsquared2 has a wide range of stores all over the world. Their accessories line, consisting of shoes and belts, is very popular and quite easy to get, but stores selling the clothes are more difficult to find. Due to the high price range, only high fashion boutiques sell the clothing of Dsquared2.

Dsquared2 also sells a less expensive line at several warehouses.

Dsquared2’s own store environments are far more interesting to look at. At the moment, they own a few flagship stores around the world. Remarkable about their store environment is that the brand incorporates their whole

philosophy into the store.

The flagship environment is big, uses a lot of outdoor materials, such as wood, and has a rich, outdoor feeling.

The stores are decorated in a certain theme, such as the theme “forest”: by using light and pictures on the wall, the visitors are supposed to feel like there are trees around them. Every collection got its own theme. Although the store can change in appearance, it never loses its high class and chic feeling.

Store environment Milaan, Italy

Dsquared2 shock advertisement summer 2010

Roots

Dean & Dan grew up in a suburb in Toronto. According to them, they have been interested in fashion since their early childhood.

Designing dresses for their older sisters and friends, they slowly developed a passion for fashion. In a later stage of their youth the Canadian twin brothers moved to New York to attend the Parson’s School of Design. After graduating Dean and Dan moved to Milan, Italy to become fashion designers.

After multiple collaborations they presented their first line of menswear in 1994. This was a huge success, followed by a collection for women in 2003.

Throughout their career the twin brothers received a lot of awards for their designs.

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The Dsquared2 advertising is based on two principles.

Celebrity endorsement is one of them. The popularity and brand awareness is coming from celebrities, such as Madonna and Britney Spears, wearing the brand to parties and events. The second principle to their branding strategy is their advertisement. The brand tries to incorporate their philosophy in their advertisements. This leads to sexy, but shocking and sometimes even vulgar advertisements. Most of the times Dsquared2 campaigns are the topic of discussion and in rare cases even get banned from a certain country.

However, lately the brand chooses a more neat and sophisticated look for their advertisements, makes the brand look more mature than before.

Alongside their advertising Dean & Dan became a symbol for the brand. Dsquared2 is involved with all sorts of public events, and pictures of the two designers with the most important people constantly pop up, making them icons.

This is heavily influencing the popularity and the brand awareness.

Dsquared2 fall winter 2012 campaign

Article of trade

The jeans are influenced by the roots and travel behavior of the designers. This, for instance, is visible in the details referring to their Canadian roots incorporate in their jeans. Dsquared2 denim is well known for their extremely tight or extremely wide cut. The jeans usually have small or big leather patches, an unique closure and (multiple) washings. The jeans are a symbol of their design philosophy. They have a vintage and outdoor feeling to it, combined with eroticism, wit and high quality tailoring.

STONE ISLAND Name of the brand: Stone Island • Founded in: Ravarino, Italy, 1982 • Established by: Massimo Osti

Theory

Stone Island store Florance, Italy

Language

Stone Island label

According to the company, Stone Island’s philosophy goes hand in hand with the philosophy of C.P. Company.

Stone Island says that the clothes are designed with a military influence and uniform touch. The brand believes that uniform garments are designed to give men functional clothes to wear during a certain job and because of the certain status within the connotation of a uniform, it gives the person who is wearing it status and elegance.

To obtain the philosophy in the modern fashion world, Stone Island is constantly involved in experiments with elements such as fabrics and yarns. To give their military uniform garments an innovative look that fits into their idea of designing elegant apparel for tomorrow.

Stone Island has multiple ways to promote itself. As most brands, Stone Island is involved with social media such as Facebook. The brand has an extremely wide range of actively involved followers, who are spreading the word of the brand. Stone Island also advertises on a regular base in magazines. These advertisements are a direct reflection of the brands philosophy. The models pose strong and powerful, that reassembles their military look and feel. Posing in front of a white or equal background, creates an industrial look and reflects their innovative way of looking at fabrics and how they design their jeans, co-incidentally making their advertisements very recognisable. Another branding strategy is their

logo, or ‘badge’. It consists of an embroidered fabric that, according to Stone Island, has distinguished the brand since their first collection. The fabric holds a compass with as the needle a rose, and is displayed like an insignia on a military garment. This as well contributes to the brand popularity and recognition.

Fashion environment

Stone Island has a wide range of stores selling the clothes worldwide. However the brand only pops up in stores that are in line with the brand.

And while Stone Island and C.P. Company can be seen as two separate brands, it is not unusual to see the two brands together in one store.

Besides the stores selling the

brand, Stone Island also has their own stores around the world. The store environment of Stone Island is a direct translation of their brand philosophy. The stores have an intelligent, conceptual and industrial feeling. The experimental part of the brand is clearly visible in the layout and furnishing of the stores.

At the same time, the stores focus on the heritage of the brand by display the logo in a certain way.

This as well contributes to the brand popularity and recognition.

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Stone Island advertisement Spring/Summer 2011

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Roots

Back in 1982, Stone Island was a part of C.P. Company.

The founder, Massimo Osti, was a graphic designer who started designing T-shirts.

The shirts he produced where remarkable because of the way they were printed. His designs where such a success that he was asked to design a whole collection.

Stone Island says that they were born when Massimo started experimenting with a new fabric called Lorry Tarpaulin. Massimo believes that the strength of his designs rely on the experimental aspects of fabrics and cuts. The heavy Lorry Tarpaulin fabric was one of them. After washing it for many hours in water, stones and sand, the fabric had a softer look, but was far from C.P. Companies visual vocabulary. According to Massimo, he decided to start a special collection in this fabric and called it Stone Island.

Article of trade

Stone Island claims that they characterise themselves by their military look full of heritage and innovative ways to look at garments and fabrics. Stone Island says that through this philosophy they design innovative clothes for the future. According to Stone Island, this is realised in their never ending research on dyeing clothes en finding new methods of special treatments for the garments.

This makes their jeans special. The denim that they produce is comfortable to wear and is designed to wear with function and ease. The jeans are cut in a simple and elegant way, making the look of the jeans not especially recognisable. However, their innovative look in their clothes is making all the difference.

The washing and finishing of the jeans results into elegant, comfortable, powerful denim.

Stone Island store Florance, Italy

Ethnic group

Stone Island and C.P. Company goes hand in hand together, as well as does their ethnic group. Stone Island claims that their clothes are perfect for men who are interested in heritage and new innovative ways to create tradition.

This, refers to their cultural heritage. According to the brand, the ethnic group is looking for functional, sometimes avant garde and futuristic, even dreamlike clothing. Because of the tremendous time that Stone island claims to put into research of uniforms and innovative ways to create new fabrics and finishing’s the price varies between €180 450.

Stone Island store, London

Stone Island jeans

Text by: Daan Bak, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Text by: Naomi Fassaert, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Ethnic group

Theory Language

Diesel store

The brand started with the motto “Only the Brave”, but changed it later to “For Successful Living”. Their original motto “Only the Brave” characterizes their first era, defining themselves as a jeans- and workwear apparel company and trying to find their place in the context of the 80’s fashion. They try to differentiate themselves from other brands by innovating and selling jeans that looked worn. At the start of the brand, people didn’t realise this look was intentional.

They often returned the jeans, because the customer believed them to be defective.

Fortunately, these series of misunderstandings didn’t last long and people started to understand the concept.

Nowadays, Diesels’ vision is “For Successful Living”, which means you should get the most out of life. You have to think with your heart instead of your head. Diesel operates in an independent and emotional way and will

Diesel jeans detail

Roots

Renzo Rosso created the brand in 1978, together with the owner of Moltex and founder of Replay Adriano Goldschmied. Co-incidentally, they are also founders of the Genius Group, the cradle of many successful trademarks such as Katherine Hamnett, Martin Guy, Goldie, Ten Big Boys and Diesel. The name “Diesel” was chosen as an avant-garde symbol of the oil crisis in the 70’s and as an international word because it is easy to understand and pronounced the same way around the world. The brand, also considered an alternative ‘energy’, is a metaphor for an alternative taste in casual wear which brought Diesel worldwide success.

Diesel Campaign 2010

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Label

Diesel Campaign 2012

Diesel particularly aims at people who are young at heart and spirit. Age plays no role for Diesel. The formula of Diesel is to anticipate trends instead of following them.

They renew their collections before the trend is really there. If you look at the price range of the products, which is between €100 - 240, you will notice that whoever buys this product has to be a young professional. Diesel is becoming more luxurious and exclusive when they set up the Diesel Gold Line, with has prices going up to €2000. Diesel is actually saying that they’re aiming at a person with balls, who is well educated and earns enough money to be able to buy its products.

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The products of Diesel are characterised by their Italian background and their motivation to stay ahead of trends. The brand does not follow established trends.

Instead their products are innovative and at times a bit radical, but always show careful attention to details and focus on the selection of quality materials and production techniques.

Diesel is a typical Italian product, which is reflected in characteristics in their jeans, like the perfect finishing in details and treatments.

Several washings ensure the vintage look. One of those washings is the Bastonati Wash, which means ‘thrashing of the jeans’ in English.

The Italian flag, (made of 3 collared stitching stripes) double belt loops, and branding line (the logo) on the 5th pocket on front are standard on a five pocket jeans.

The sub-collections consists out of: Diesel Male, Diesel Female, Diesel Black Gold, 55DSL, Diesel KID and Lifestyle products.

What makes this brand different from its competitors is the way they advertise their apparel, often in outspoken and sometimes bizarre campaigns. While other brands portray models using the clothes in a semi-staged scenario, Diesel excels at creating stories around their photographs. This is the way a top brand plays with the audience. Diesel always looks at the social conditions in the world of today and shows their own interpretation in their campaigns, with a playful twist. The brands innovative approach to marketing has made it the first clothing company to market their clothing in video games, and has developed innovative approaches to fashion shows.

Diesel wants to tell us that it is not only about selling products; they enrich the buyer with a lifestyle, a feeling of not conforming to the norm. It’s about making a statement, to demand attention.

Fashion Environment

Diesel has eight flagship stores based in Rome, London, Paris, New York, San Francisco, Amsterdam, Milan and Tokyo, which makes Diesels influence spread globally, refraining it from being ignored. In order to give an exclusive feeling, they hang only three garments of each design on the rack. To compete with Levi’s, Diesel also came with a body profile.

The men are categorized into 4 sections, the women into 3. They look at the body type to see which jeans have the best fit. The employees of Diesel are selected on their lifestyle, because it has to fit their concept. What they look like and the way they act is more important than their qualifications.

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continue to operate this way. They believe that when you believe in something, you can make it successful.

This brand follows its own path, to achieve a satisfying result. This is the way Diesel distinguishes itself from other denim brands.

Name of the brand: Diesel • Founded in: Moldeva, Italy • Established by: Renzo Rosso and Adriano Goldschmied

Jeans detail

DIESEL

Name of the brand: Lois Denim • Founded in: Valencia, Spain, 1962 • Established by: Marino Saez

Text by: Loïs Palm, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Language

The restart of Lois Denim made a huge difference in their communication with customers; they use more channels to do their branding.

They are focussing on the press and the media by doing a lot of interviews, mainly in fashion magazines and on the Internet. They want people to know about the latest strategy of Lois.

Despite of this, the website of Lois is a bit confusing, due to the navigation not having gotten much of attention.

Therefore, the idea of the jeans is not clear and falling apart. However, they do communicate the toughness of the brand very well by the right use of colour and strong images. What is remarkable is that there are no campaigns or ads used for the restart.

Lois Deni at theBread and Butter 2011

Theory

Fashion environment

Lois wants their retail environment to be seen as tough, innovative and authentic with a modern twist.

The roots of this brand are very important and the whole store has a Spanish feeling.

They use much wood in their stores for walls and furniture.

This gives a warm and nostalgic feeling. They hang the saddle and the handlebar of a bike on the wall, which refers to the horns of a bull.

Lois’s differentiates itself by collaborating with three other fashion brands in a concept store which is established in Eindhoven.

Fashion Envoirment of Lois

The brand’s unique heritage of 50 years as Spanish jeans brand is remarkable and they want people to know it. Lois says that they are pure, tough, powerful and incredible.

They want to be more than just fashion. Their goal is to become an A-brand, which is why quality is so important in their products. Lois limits its distribution to a select number of high-end jeans boutiques, but with the speed of a vertical manufacturing company (for example H&M), so that the designs are on the market within eight weeks.

Mixing the North-European jeans look with a Spanish flavour is very important to Lois. Only the Spanish elements are restricted to the visual aspect, such as the bull in the logo, symbolic for Spain and for strength. A visual expression in their store, where, for example, a hanged bicycle handlebar which refers to the horns of the bull.

Their modern gallery/retail/ work space is to give their customers a personal denim experience.

Crew Woodstock wearing Lois

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Roots

Lois Denim was established in 1962, where revolutionary sentiments high and there were beautiful ideals of making love and not war. The first important part of their idea was to create a brand and product, not built on the history of cowboys and horses. They wanted to create a fun pair of jeans, one that found its birth on the dance floor. These jeans would not be built on function, but on fashion. Eventually a dream brought to reality in 1979, when the fashion elites and celebrities from the music, fashion and sports industry all wore Lois. The European seventies distinguished the Lois jeans style: deep pockets, recognisable logo (the Spanish bull) and a tight fit. In 2007 Lois couldn’t keep the production profitable and disappeared from the market. However, Lois made her comeback in 2011, where the roots stood central, but the present gave it a more contemporary twist to keep it up to date.

Lois differentiates itself by keeping elements from the seventies in their products.

“With respect to the history of the brand, we’re going to make new things, because some of the elements of Lois Jeans can not be given away.”

These elements are the Lois button, the leather patch, the back pocket stitching and the bull itself.

Next to the standard collection that will be in stores begin 2013, there will be a collection called Lois Legends. Lois still believes in their success in the early seventies. Rock stars wore Lois, so everyone wanted to wear Lois. The collection brings back iconic jeans models introduced by Lois back in their glory days. In the Legend collection, they use different kinds of slogans like: “Dare to

Lois jeans detail

Lois Denim, detail

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be a Legend”. The collection brings the most loved cuts and washes from the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s.

“The One” is a recurring model, homage paid to the very first pair of Lois jeans by giving it an up-to-date look and feel.

They pay special attention to the fact that The One is double stitched.

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Ethnic group

Lois does not have a specific target group they are focussing on. Both men and women who are sensitive for trends will feel themselves comfortable by wearing Lois.

The brand operates in the middle end of the market, so it is quite affordable for many people. The price of a pair of jeans varies between €80 120.

Jeans detail

LOIS DENIM

DENHAM Name of the brand: Denham • Founded in: Amsterdam, The Netherlands, 2009 • Established by: Jason Denham

Why Denham stands out from hundreds of other premium denim brands can be found in the motto of the company: “The truth is in the details”.

This motto becomes evident when taking a closer look at the products. Founder Jason Denham balances progressive and innovative design in a unique way, with respect for the craftsmanship and tradition of classic jeans

Theory

Denham has two concepts, which supply the designers with the inspiration needed for making a collection. The first one: beauty of the details is very important. A perfect finish and surprising details are essential. The second one is the preservation of traditions and simultaneously destroying ordinary, old-fashioned methods, which the brand thinks it is crucial.

Denham translated these two concepts to a logo, symbolized by the scissors used by Jason Denham to cut his first pair of jeans 17 years ago. The brand says it stands for quality, detail and innovation. Denham is inspired by past, present and future and would like to renew.

Jeans detail

around your hand, the shape will have 7 points, not 5. The Denham pocket is a symbol of the hand of the worker for whom workwear was originally created. The use of fully tailored Boxed Button-Holes on pockets further represents Denham’s fascination with quality workmanship.

The Denham collection also includes tops, coats, jumpers, bags and accessories. A pair of Denham jeans costs between €150 - 250, but the exclusive collection is more expensive and can be up to €500.

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making. Denham’s secret of making a perfect pair of jeans starts by understanding the history and the tradition of denim from a philosophical perspective.

from unworn to worn-in can not start without a fresh pair, so the space is also home to the Virgin denim collection. Denham’s Virgin denim program represents their unwashed denim, and symbolizes the beginning of a highly individual journey that each one starts from the moment a pristine pair is taken home for the first time, to the pleasure of sliding into a uniquely worn-in-favouritemonths pair of jeans later.

A typical characteristic of Denham Jeans is the 7-Point Pocket. If you draw a line

Fashion environment

Ethnic group

The brand does not want to follow the mainstream.

Not everyone can afford the jeans and not everybody has the Denham philosophy in themselves. This makes the ethnic group smaller and different than other jeans brands. Denham is made for young professionals, both men and women with an age between 20-40 years old and with a desire for quality and a heart for traditional craftmanship. They want to stand out from the rest and do not mind to spend more money on a good pair of jeans when they can customize it to what they want it to be.

The Denham Stores are located in Amsterdam, Tokyo, Osaka, London and sell in more than 250 retail stores all over the world. In addition to selling the latest Denham jeans collection in the stores, it showcases the design origins of Denham and tells the story of denim like a museum. Highlights include a vintage denim collection (on display behind glass), beautifully presented limited edition Japanese Saki from

Hiro and fun accessories. Each of their stores has a ‘Blue Salad Bar’, a screen where u can make a selection from every imaginable variation of stitching and nail buttons for your own pair of Denham Jeans.

The setting of the store in Amsterdam is a beautiful old canal house in Amsterdam’s ‘Negen Straatjes’ area, with lots of small details and original features to discover

and admire. All the shops are based on the design of the shop in Amsterdam, and expressing the same signature to merging traditionalism and modernity together. Deep wood flooring contrasts with gallery-style white walls, and clean minimalist interior elements are accented with carefully selected industrial design.

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Denham wants to give an exclusive feeling to the customer. This is one of the reasons why they do not much advertising. Through their slogan, ‘The truth is in the details’, they want to communicate their philosophy.

The people who get this message and understand it, are worthy of owning a pair of Denham jeans. Denham only advertises through wordof-mouth, interviews for newspapers, Internet blogs, independent magazines and short films on their website to maintain their philosophy.

Denham store, Amsterdam

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Theory

“DENHAM Respect for craftsmanship”

Denham store, Amsterdam

Roots

Jason Denham has a long and established history within the denim sector. He started his career in 1992 working in the store of Joe Casley-Hayford.

He also worked for Pepe Jeans London and found the Dutch jeans brand Blue Blood with Steve te Pas. When he left these brands, he decided to create a product that would take the market by storm. In the spring of 2009 “Denham, the jeansmaker” was born.

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In their jeans, the brand shows their passion for denim in several ways. It is in the fabric, model and in so much more. The jeans are inspired by the designs in an antique pattern book and the models are named after the ancient tailoring techniques. Denham jeans are cut on raw denim materials from the legendry Japanese house of Hiro and are hand finished in Italy.

Jason Denham has a fascination for Japanese denim, as in his opinion, they have the best ‘blue indigo’ he has ever seen. The journey

Denham store, Amsterdam

Denham campaign 2012

Denham jeans

Text by: Naomi Fassaert, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Name of the brand: Cars • Founded in: The Netherlands • Established by: Cees van Bueren

Text by: Yoeri Jonker, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

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Roots

Renzo Rosso created the CARS is founded in 1982 and has 30 years of experience under its belt. Wehkamp and Vroom & Dreesman solely represent the brand. As a kid, you probably wore it. As an adult, it’s probably part of your nostalgia. CARS Jeans has been around for many years and saw brands come and go while they survived. It has brought balance and a certain dynamic into the Dutch street wear with its own classics and current trends.

Cars jeans

Theory

The vision behind CARS is that well designed jeans do not have to come with a shocking price tag. They hope to reach the specific locals with lower prices, without letting the quality of the jeans suffer.

Furthermore, CARS believes that which course of business they decide to take, they have to maintain affordability, timelessness and comfort.

This is what CARS stands for, these are their core values.

keep people up to date by uploading lookbooks and keeping a blog that people can follow, which mainly posts about denim, travel and festivals.

Ethnic group

CARS has a rather large target group. The brand focuses on women, men and also children, something that is rare in the world of denim.

The brand explains that their target group is wide, because their jeans are for every age and every type, suitable for every occasion and season.

This target group feels attracted to the affordable prices. The fashion aspect comes in second place, but is also important. However, their brand does not attract teenagers and tweenagers and mostly sells to mothers and children from the age of 4 to 12.

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Their collection works with all kinds of washes, from near black to light blue. The cuts for women are straight, skinny and boot cut. The fits vary for slim to loose even as the rise varies from low to high. The fits for men mainly focus on straight cuts, but sometimes

Store-in-store Cars, V&D

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Little Cars collection, Spring/Summer 2013

In 2011 CARS chose a new model for the brand, Dutch singer songwriter Ilse de Lange. Ilse de Lange calls it a merger in which she and the brand work together. To CARS

Jeans, this merger was bound to happen, since both are very down to earth and creative.

The same as with the singer, CARS has been successful for a long time, never changing who they are, keeping an open character and remaining accessible to everyone.

During so-called ‘Adrenaline Sessions’, Ilse de Lange gets the chance to pitch her ideas on designs. The brand also designs the new tour of Ilse de Lange, which is also a way to promote CARS. Ilse de Lange is also featured in the advertising campaign, which was published and spread through cities in March of this year. CARS Jeans also appears on several events, like the Just Kidz Modebeurs in Amsterdam. As the website changed in the years, they try to stay current and

The difference between CARS jeans and other brands is that CARS does not have its own store and survived in the world of denim without it for 30 years. They mainly sells their jeans online through the website of Wehkamp and in store through Vroom & Dreesman. By visiting the department store Vroom & Dreesman, you can not see or feel the identity of Cars.

The shelves are different, but do not show affordability.

Most of the time, it seems like the identity of the brand is taken over by the store.

The whole collection can be viewed through the website of CARS Jeans, but to purchase, there is another website called CarsStore. This is their own web shop.

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release a straight cut or loose fit. The prices are between €30-70.

Different are the outof-proportion price tags that come with the jeans.

Especially with the children jeans, the price tags are extra large, maybe to make it look more childish. The stitches they use in their designs are rougher, less subtle. It has a very straightforward look, less refined. Another detail is the use of highly visible stitches, which are used for an obvious reason.

Campaign Fall/Winter 2013 Men

CARS

BLUE BLOOD Language

Name of the brand: Blue Blood • Founded in: Amsterdam, The Netherlands, 2002 • Established by: Jason Denham and Steve te Pas

Jeans detail

Text by: Nikki Neervens, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Theory

As mentioned before, the company started making jeans for their friends. This became the key to the concept of the brand, as everything they do is built on love; the love for their friends, the love for quality, the love for craftsmanship and so on. You could say Blue Blood was built on the people whom they are passionate about and on their

adornment for jeans. The love for denim is illustrated in their name ‘Blue Blood’, it means that they have indigo running through their veins. It is also a synonym for royalty and aristocracy, emphasizing the love for quality, tradition and craftsmanship. The lobster as logo is a logical step if you know that this animal actually has indigo blood running through its veins. Indigo is the most important colour for the brand, which is not really a surprise.

Because friends are so important for this brand its tone of voice is also very informal and laid back.

Customers are spoken to as if they are really their friends, a tone of voice resulting in a nice and warm feeling.

The prices are a little bit less friendly; they are between €120 - 200. This makes them a luxury brand, positioning them between street and high fashion.

Fashion environment

Blue Blood store Amsterdam, Koningsplein

Roots

Blue Blood is an Amsterdam based jeans brand established in 2002 by Jason Denham and Steve te Pas. They presented the brand as the new luxury jeans label. They offered a small and focused jeans collection based on the best fabrics, exclusive washings and unique details.

At first, they made jeans for their friends; this was the basis for their company.

Later on, that basis became a special line in their collection called ‘For Our Friends’.

BB Give Blood campaign 2012

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BB Give Blood campaign 2012

Ethnic group

The people they want to attract are young, creative individuals with a little bit of attitude. They must have a lust for life and love for jeans, and they also want to attract people who can finance this love, because the prices of their jeans are not low. In their campaign you can see young people whom are intellectual and up-to-date, but with an edge. For instance, you can see them smoking in the campaign.

this line are made by classic hand scraping, ecological dirt wash and 3D editing.

The second line is the ‘Dry Goods’ line: these jeans are produced without H2O and have a non-worn look.

The more intense and longer you wear your jeans, the more unique they will get. It distinguished itself from other lines by an off-white patch with green typography. The fabric they use for this line comes from Japan and has the weight of 12 and 14 ounces.

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The collection of Blue Blood is inspired by authentic workwear with a tailored twist. To symbolize the focus on workwear, you can find a pencil pocket in each pair of jeans, with inside a Blue Blood carpenter pencil. Within the main collection, Blue Blood has two lines that are really characteristic. The first one is called ‘For Our Friends’ and this is the phrase on what they concept is built. The signature detail for the ‘For Our Friends’ collection is a black patch on the right back pocket. The washes used on

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The branding activities of Blue Blood are informal and personal. They do not have advertisements in magazines, which makes them less known by a big group of consumers.

But that is good for them, because they do not want to attract the customers who only consumes. They want to attract the people who are willing to search for the perfect pair of jeans and then find Blue Blood.

The brand does have a method of branding that is a bit different from other brands. Blue Blood is really interactive with its customers; the brand encourages people to do things. Their latest campaign, ‘Give Blood Campaign’, raises awareness for the importance of blood donation and raises money for the Red Cross.

Blue Blood has online and real life retail, both with the concept “For Our Friends” visually present. The brand owns four stores in The Netherlands, three in Amsterdam (PC142, CS18, KP11) and one in Rotterdam (OB65). Different stores through The Netherlands, 65 stores to be exact, sell small parts of the collection. Most of the collection can also be bought on the brand’s online store and at other online stores.

The atmosphere in the stores is friendly and warm, which links to their “For Our Friends” concept. The employees are nice and very willing to help. This contributes to the friendly feeling. The colours are saturated with bright accents and they also use a lot of dark wood. This makes their retail environments warm, but also a bit masculine.

Furthermore, you will also notice the craftsmanship in their stores.

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Amsterdams Blauw is the denim collection of Scotch & Soda. The designers are a young and ambitious team that gets inspiration from American and Japanese denim aesthetics. The name Amsterdams Blauw refers to the colour of the paint that was used in the Golden Century to paint Dutch porcelain. The Amsterdam based brand has been there since the eighties. They had a restart in 2001 thanks to three new owners.

Theory

Scotch & Soda is a brand that will get inspiration from everywhere and absorb this to make it their own. To Scotch & Soda, it is important to make vintage oriented apparel.

They believe that this makes great garments that suit every individual. They want people to love their clothes and enjoy wearing them as a personal pleasure.

Scotch & Soda gets inspiration from all over the world and

mix this with elements of their own style. This makes the concept of the brand unique, because through this inspiration the brand is very diverse and accessible. All of the products contain passion and unique elements. Because they do not want to speed up the production, like most brands, they stick to two collections a year. Scotch & Soda has 45 retail stores worldwide and more than 8000 other sales points.

Ethnic group

Scotch & Soda does not believe in targeting a specific group. They put a great effort in making clothes that fit and please each and everyone of their customers. They design clothes for men (Scotch & Soda), women (Maison Scotch) and children (Scotch R’belle for girls and Scotch Shrunk for boys). Everyone aged 4-40 is sure to find something that fits their taste and their individual identity in the store.

The marketing strategy of Scotch & Soda is to communicate through the website. On the website they have information about the brand, their blog, campaign videos about Amsterdam Blauw, new arrivals and an up to date online store. The clothing is very central in their brand communication; it shows the details, how it is made and how you can wear it.

Scotch & Soda does not advertise in magazines, or in other commercial channels.

They want the brand to be exclusive. Scotch & Soda wants the people to reach out to the brand, instead of the brand reaching out for the people. Therefore, they can feel the world of diversity and creativity that belongs to the brand.

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The jeans are young and fresh and the colours they used are indigo, black or blue. The brand uses different washes, for example the hand and stonewash and saturated 3D whiskers. The prices of Scotch & Soda jeans are between €90 - 170, so it is positioned in a higher segment.

Fashion environment

Scotch & Soda takes great pride in the level and uniqueness of the feeling and visual merchandising in the stores. The wooden material and the warm colours used in the design of the store create a very comfortable and welcoming atmosphere for the customer. Creativity is evident in every detail of the stores. One thing that is very characteristic in their stores is the perfume. When you enter the store, you will smell the perfume of the brand.

This level of excellence also extends to the staff in the store. For instance, instead of meeting managers or sales people, you are welcomed by ‘Fashion Hosts’ and ‘Stylists’.

All the employees in the store know the products very well: they are able to explain every detail of the product.

Scotch & Soada store Berlin

Roots

“The ethnic group can discover new tints and details when wearing the jeans”

Scotch Shrunk lookbook fall/winter 2012/2013

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Store wall Scotch & Soda Amsterdam

Scotch & Soada campaign 2012

Text by: Claudia Brok, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Jeans detail

Scotch & Soda makes different jeans models for men and women. The characteristics are the same in each jeans. The brand believes that the jeans will come alive when the customers wear it. One of the elements of the jeans is the presence of three crosses symbolizing Amsterdam on the back of the jeans. Inside of the jeans, you can read messages such as “Have a nice denim day” or “Wear it with love”. This makes the product more personal and connects to the customer. They also give each model a signature name, as if they where handmade. The designers pay much attention to the fitting of the jeans, so that almost none of the jeans are the same. They look at the chest, waist, low waist, hip and inseam. For men and women the cut of the jeans is different. For men the designs are: regular, slim, boot cut, anti fit and loose taper cuts.

For women they make the following designs: straight leg, skinny, chino, tapered leg, jigging, high waist, loose fit tapered and boyfriend cuts.

Scotch & Soada store Breda

Name of the brand: Scotch & Soda • Founded in: Amsterdam, The Netherlands, 1985 • Established by: Laurent Hompes

INTOXICA Name of the brand: Intoxica • Founded in: Amsterdam, The Netherlands, 2005 • Established by: Kentroy Yearwood

Ethnic group

The ethnic group of Intoxica has an eye for sustainability and high fashion and will focus on the brand identity.

They always tries to be different from the rest of the world. They have to be, because sustainability is not

as customary as Intoxica would like to see. Intoxica does not focus on body ideals.

The average pair of jeans is €270 and Intoxica is only sold in a very limited and thoughtfully selected number of shops throughout the world.

Intoxica fashion envoirment

Theory

Intoxica is more than a denim producer. It believes that if you develop a product, you should add something to the product that already exists, otherwise it is a waste of

effort and material. By using more than 85% of organic material and aiming for a 100% honest and fair trade production, Intoxica tries to reach their goals. The aim of the brand is to invigorate the customer to make a different choice. Ethical and sustainable values have priority, but it seems that the surprising designs of Kentroy Yearwood eventually make the consumers aware of that fact.

Intoxica Fall/Winter 2012 collection

Roots

Intoxica started with the idea that labels overwhelm the society, therefore not leaving much of the attention for the individual.

However, people do not think of the environment. That is why Kentroy Yearwood, the designer of Intoxica, is not concerned about fashion or trends when he designs for Intoxica. He asked himself the question “what will happen when the product is no longer worn?” With this idea, the denim brand Intoxica was born in 2005.

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Intoxica does not communicate with conventional ways of advertising such as billboards, magazines and advertisements. It only shows its new collection at fashion shows and through their own website. However, the website does not seem to be up to date, not showing any women apparel.

Intoxica takes part at symposia’s like Beyond Green, AIFW, the Green Fashion Competition, Co-Lab and the fashion and architect exposition by ArcAm. With these methods, Intoxica reaches the specific target group it wants to reach. The brand has a Twitter account, but not much information is given on it. Intoxica gets more attention as a brand by offering lectures about sustainability.

Fashion environment

Intoxica sells its products all over the world. The label is selling its jeans in special selected shops like Ecofabs Concept Store in Amsterdam and the NoGood store in Paris, which are shops with a selected range of sustainable brands. These stores display the clothes more like it is an exhibition than as a standard retail environment, which matches the luxurious and exclusive feeling of the brand.is taken over by the store.

Intoxica fashion envoirment

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Intoxica fashion envoirment

Intoxica fashion envoirment

Text by: Charlotte Elzinga, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Intoxica fashion envoirment

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The jeans of Intoxica are organic and fair-trade.

Most of the jeans have a relaxed loose fit and a casual luxurious look and feel.

For Intoxica, luxury means a 100% fair process. The Japanese denim that is used in Kentroy’s designs is woven by using traditional craft techniques, washed without the use of any chemicals and is dyed in an environmental friendly manner. The way of dying and producing the jeans give them that unique quality and drape. Intoxica started as a jeans brand only for men, but at the AIFW also showed sweaters, shirts and jackets and even a women’s collection. The plastic covered branding patch and copper coloured buttons are typical details of a pair of Intoxica jeans.

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AUSTRALIA

AUSTRALIA

Name of the brand: KSUBI • Founded in: Sydney, Australia, 2001 • Established by: Gareth Moody, Dan Single, George Gorrow, Paul Wilson and Oscar Wright

Ksubi store, Melbourne

Roots

Gareth Moody, Dan Single, George Gorrow, Paul Wilson and Oscar Wright launched their underground brand at the Mercedes Fashion Week in 2001. They started solely with sunglasses and jeans, they have experimented with different washes and renewing forms of presentation which resulted in rather theatrical collection presentations.

Their brand, named Ksubi is an Australian jeans brand.

This brand from Down Under presents itself as ambitious and inventive.

Theory

Both George Gorrow and Dan Single have been quoted to say that their brand does not look at other brands.

They believe this is because Australia has been isolated and disconnected from the fashion world for so long; they

Ksubi store, Sydney

were bound to find their own way. The key to the concept of Ksubi is being experimental, but having fun with it. With this concept they hope to create a unique wash, design and fit, which remain tough, with an effortless look. Core values are tough, innovative and evolving.

their look. This look is seen through the whole promotion of the collection. Releasing videos with photos of the lookbook accompanied with distorted visuals and sounds of war documentations.

Hosting lavish parties and using supermodels like Erin Wasson, Ksubi generates online controversy and is therefore deliberately provocative in order to receive attention. Furthermore, they set up a blog concerning sex and fashion, an online sponsored magazine, limited edition custom pieces, a Facebook and Twitter page, and everything has a consistent motivation.

Ethnic group

The people who wear Ksubi are open minded, free-spirited and creative. Ksubi aims for the younger 16 - 30 aged surfers, skateboarders or creative with the need for relaxation and fun, but with a hunger for adrenaline and new experiences. They love a good party, but prefer the underground scene with indie, alternative music above the more mainstream house clubs; this connects with the esthetics and model of the jeans.

Fashion Night in Sydney, 2011

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Kolors Campaign in Spring Summer 2011

Text by: Yoeri Jonker, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

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In the branding of Ksubi the product is very important, but there is also a consistent motivation; as long as the designers think it is fun to do. For instance their Kolors campaign, which had a viral video with girls jumping over cars, all in an 80’s setting.

They promoted their coloured denim range collection.

This collection was an “OurFavorites” collection, where the designers chose the best colour washes and variations that they used through the years. Their W.A.R campaign this season has the same 80’s esthetic as the Kolors campaign, but takes it further by bringing a more contrasting look with washes, making them rawer and tougher in

Fashion environment

Ksubi does not solely sell to Australia, as they did back in the days, today they sell all over the world. For instance, the “Cannabis” store in Tokyo, which featured eye-catching designs referencing a tension between material comfort and a desire for simplicity.

However, their stores generally consist of daring artwork, floors embedded with crumbling tiles, referring to their tougher, nonchalant approach. To this day, they sell their jeans in the United Kingdom, the United States, Hong Kong, Canada, New Zealand and Sweden. Another interesting fact is that their pop-up stores links to the experimental character of the brand.

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The apparel of Ksubi, especially their jeans, have a rough, unrefined look with a good fit. Recognizable by the double-crossed graphic logo, placed in a square framework on the back of their jeans and on the button of the jeans. Raffles, wrinkled denim, bleaches, fade washes, stonewashes; their jeans look as if they have been worn for years. They pretend that their jeans carry a story and experience with them, without having that saggy, outworn model. The washes and other processes that the jeans must endure cannot compromise the fit. As Paul Wilson said in an interview with Dazed&Confused: “The girls’ butts look amazing in super stretch and the boys’ silhouette still looks tough even though it’s bright.” The typical Ksubi jeans range from €70 - 250, depending on the cost of the process.

Jeans detail

KSUBI

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TOKYO

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AZIE

EDWIN JEANS Name of the brand: Edwin • Founded in: Tokyo, Japan, 1947 • Established by: Mr. Tsunemi

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Ethnic group

Fashion environment

The brand is located mainly in Japan, as it finds their origins there. The brand is also available in Asia, the United States and in Europe.

They have their own retail stores, but their apparel is also sold in many private and online shops around the world.

They provide online shopping service on their homepage for their customers in Japan,

the United States and Europe, which makes it rather easy to get your own pair of Edwin jeans. This follows the philosophy of the brand, that Edwin Jeans are for everyone.

In the Netherlands, outlets can most commonly be found in small boutiques (for example, Tenue de Nimes).

Edwin magazine 2011

Edwin store London

Although there is no typical Edwin ethnic group, there is no one they aim for, the brand appears to be popular with the real Denim lovers, who value the amount of work and details Edwin puts in their jeans. However, if a group should be chosen, it would be the free-minded and flexible people; those who demand a tougher, more resilient pair of jeans.

campaign, both shot in the UK. While their tone of voice remains the same, the location seems a bit darker but redeeming, comparable with early morning dew. Another interesting branding method that Edwin uses is their sponsored magazine ED Zine V, which features a collection of images, thoughts, idealisms and curiosities surrounding the brand, seen through the eyes of photographers and illustrators. It is a rather aesthetic magazine for their specific locals.

Edwin store London

Theory

Behind every Edwin jeans lies the aspiration of creating the perfect jeans for everyone. With innovation, craftsmanship and culture as their philosophy, they do not see a pair of jeans as a style or work of art. They see it as a genuine product that everyone can wear, as long as you find the right wash and fit. Therefore, history, quality, craftsmanship, innovation and integrity have been paramount characteristics to define the ethos and aesthetics of the brand. The brand represents it’s strong desire of opening up the possibilities of jeans through freethinking. They believe that you can continue to create jeans that fit everyone through creating dreams, movement and culture.

This innovation can even be seen in their production process. All of the machinery within Edwin factories has been custom made to guarantee that no other brand is able to recreate their jeans. It also creates the ability to find new ways of manufacturing jeans.

Edwin has always been a promoter of the American Dream and American sociology. On their website, every visual has an American touch, whether it is the biker boys cruising through a woodland area or the setting of the London store opening.

The brand also casted Brad Pitt as face of the brand because of being an example for the American people.

Edwin also refers to the Americans in Japan in World War Two in the campaign from fall/winter 2011.

Edwin also links to the Great Britain ambience with their latest lookbook and

Edwin store opening London

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Roots

Mr. Tsunemi is one of the most interesting citizens of Japan. He was the first to domestically manufacture denim in Japan, ands also the first to create a pound heavy ring sprung denim jeans, the first to invent stone washing and old washing. America is the country where denim originally came from, but the ‘Land of the Rising Sun’ became one of the most innovating countries in the world of denim when Mr. Tsunemi established Edwin.

Priding itself on innovation and craftsmanship, utilising exclusive fabrics, unique technology, hand wash processes and continual progression in design and fit, Edwin is without a doubt a defining chapter in the history of Denim.

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Edwin and Hypebeast Editorial Gilbere Forte 2011

Text by: Yoeri Jonker, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Jeans details

Edwin has the ability to tailor jeans that fit your body shape, height, looks and even your mood. On their website and in their stores they have a fit guide to make sure the jeans you choose suit your body type. Other distinct features are the tapered fit, the salvaged back pockets, a special inside seam, the coin pocket and a selvedge denim fabric exclusively for Edwin. Comparable to custom tailoring, you can choose your own buttons and fabric, which taps into their Perfect Jeans ethic. The range of Edwin jeans vary from €120 - 600, depending on your choice of customization.

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SEGMENTATION The most important subject of this jeans paper is to create a worldwide view of the jeans market. The main question asked in the introduction is: who wears what? And why?

So the relationship between the customers and the jeans brands become clear. The answer of this question lies in the segmentation and conclusion.

Guess Levi’s

Diesel

Nudie Jeans Blue Blood Acne

SINGLES

Diesel

Lois Jeans

Levi’s

YOUNG DEPENDENTS

Scotch en Soda

Intoxica

Stone Island

Guess

YOUNG FAMILIES

Denham

Diesel Lois Jeans

PRPS Levi’s

Lois Jeans

Cheap Monday

Denham Dsquared - 60 - WORLD JEANS PAPER

AVERAGE FAMILIES

Pepe Jeans Diesel Acne

Scotch en Soda

Levi’s

Scotch & Soda

Blue Blood

Guess

3x1

Stone Island

PRPS

Lois Jeans

YOUNG INDEPENDENTS

Pepe Jeans

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Pepe Jeans

Levi’s

PRPS

Guess Levi’s

SENIOR CITIZENS

EARLY ENJOYERS

Cheap Monday

Levi’s

Diesel

Lois Jeans

Denham

Blue Blood 3x1 Levi’s

SUCCESSFUL FAMILIES

Nudie Jeans

Acne

Dsquared2 Scotch & Soda

Nudie Jeans 3x1

Young dependents

These are young school goers, their age is generally less than 20. Their income level is low, as it is usually the product of parttime jobs and pocket money.

Young independents

Young independents are independent householders living in flats, apartments, more often rented than owner-occupied. Their age lies between 22 and 30. Because they have generally just started their careers, their income varies from low to average.

Young families

This group comprises couples and, especially, families with young children. Their age lies between 25 and 30. These young families live in flats, apartments and terraced houses, sometimes as tenants and sometimes as owner-occupiers. Their income is average or a little lower.

Singles

Their age varies from 30 to 50. They are relatively often urban house-owners and have no children living at home. These people are generally young urban professionals and career makers. Their income varies from average to well above average.

Average families

‘Average families’ are almost all families with children; the adults are 30 to 50 years old. They have an average income. With regard to expenditure, this group is in the most expensive life phase, with the children growing up and entering post-school studies.

Successful families

‘Successful families’ are families with older children. The adults are 35 to 50 years old. They are career-makers and their income is usually well above the average. Expenditures are high, both because their children are growing up and entering studies, and because of their higher disposable income.

Early enjoyers

These are older people who live alone or with a partner. They are 50 years old or more and their children have left home. Their income level is average or higher; thanks to falling household costs, their disposable income is relatively high.

Senior citizens

These are pensioners, more than 70 years old, living alone or with a partner. Their income is average.

CONCLUSION High communication

R

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Focus on product

Focus on perception

Low communication

If we take a look at the segmentation, we can conclude that the most important segmentations are: Young Independents Singles and Successful Families.

This means that most brands can relate to these groups.

This has several reasons.

The first reason is, that people of those three segmentations mostly have a higher income and lower expenses so they can affort expensive brands.

We can concluded that the brands that focus on these ethnic groups are commercial brands and for this reason they have a larger range.

During the segmentation it became obvious that only Levi’s is focusing on people older than fifty years old.

The Early Enjoyers and Senior Citizens consider quality and trust as important.

We concluded that a brand should focus to this group by branding based on a trust and quality philosophy. We have also discovered that brands that could target these ethnic groups, in most cases do not reach them because of the lack of communication.

Matrix

Besides the general segmentation, we developed a matrix which enlarges the perspective of all the brands. On the horizontal line we opposite the focus on perception and focus on product. The results of the segmentation is very important to differentiates the brand. The vertical line represents the high and low communication. This is also an important value if we look at the branding of brands.

Eventually we make a conclusion about which combination is often used and which is not.

Conclusion

On the side of “product aiming” and “much communication” we can concluded that there is a gap in the market. There are not many brands positioned here. This is because their strength is in the product and not as much in their heritage of campaigns. But when you communicate more often, a wider range of consumers will have knowledge of your brand.

The special feeling of finding a great new jeans will be disappeared, but instead more people will know about your special product and spread the word around the world.

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Visual segmentation

RESOURCES Books Woolnough.R, 2008, The A to Z Book of Menswear. Bespoke Solutions ltd.

Websites 3x1 bespoke. http://3x1.us/pages/bespoke [viewed: 13 October 2012] 14oz-Berlin. http://14oz-berlin.blogspot.nl/2012/06/3x1-new-handmade-denim-forwomen-men-in.html [Viewed: 18 October 2012] Bread and butter. http://www.breadandbutter.com/summer2012therock/de/brands/brand-bible/brand/3147/ [viewed: 18 October 2012] Bullett Media. http://bullettmedia.com/editorial/bullett-tours-3x1-scott-morrisonsimpressive-denim-utopia/ [viewed: 13 October 2012] Cool Hunting. http://www.coolhunting.com/style/3x1-denim-solution. [viewed: 9 October 2012] Jatzer. http://www.yatzer.com/Build-Your-Jeans-The-3x1-Way [viewed: 18 October 2012] Images source

Interview magazine. www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/jonny-johansson/#_ [viewed: 15 October 2012] New York Times. www.nytimes.com/2009/10/15/fashion/15ACNE. html?pagewanted=all&_r=0 [viewed: 15 October 2012] Vogue Italia. www.vogue.it/en/talents/success-stories/2011/07/jonnyjohansson-acne [viewed: 15 October 2012] Image source Campaign picture Acne Paper. www.Colette.fr [viewed: 24 October 2012] Details jeans Stoy Munkholm. www.stoy-munkholm.com/acne-jeans-flex-basement. html [viewed: 24 October 2012] Fashion environment Style guide. www.styleguide.nl/2010/04/page/6/ [viewed: 24 October 2012]

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Detail Jeans Dusty Rose W1’s, 2012.http://3x1nyc.tumblr.com/ [viewed: 22 October 2012] Logo 3x1 14oz – Berlin blogspot. http://14oz-berlin.blogspot.nl/2012/06/3x1new-handmade-denim-for-women-men-in.htm [viewed: 22 October 2012]

Acne Books Klaus N. Hang, 2006, The Denim Bible Jeans Encyclopedia II, Sportswear International, Frankfurt/Main.

Store visites Acne studio Oude Spiegelstraat 8 1016 KJ Amsterdam Websites Acne Studios profile. www.acnestudios.com [viewed: 15 October 2012] David Report. davidreport.com/the-report/issue-5-2006-communication-with/ [viewed: 15 October 2012] Hintmag. www.hintmag.com/blog/2009/08/q-jonny-johansson.html [viewed: 15 October 2012] Innovating sustainable fashion. innovatingsustainablefashion.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/group-2_ acne_small.pdf [viewed: 15 October 2012]

Cars

Books Klaus N. Hang, 2006, The Denim Bible Jeans Encyclopedia II, Sportswear International, Frankfurt/Main.

Unknown, 2010, The Denim Bible Jeans Encyclopedia III, Sportswear International, Frankfurt/Main Store visites Blue Blood Store Koningsplein 11 1017 BB Amsterdam Websites Blue Blood profile. www.bluebloodbrand.com [viewed: 7 October 2012] Blue Blood Brand. www.facebook.com/bluebloodbrand [viewed: 7 October 2012] Amsterdams jeansbedrijf Blue Blood faillet. www.parool.nl [viewed: 10 October 2012] Textilia. www.textilia.com [viewed: 11 October 2012] Image source Campaign pictures Blue Blood Store Koningsplein 11 1017 BB Amsterdam [visited: 18 October 2012] Blue Blood Brand. www.facebook.com/bluebloodbrand [viewed: 7 October 2012] Details jeans Dekkers.N., 2012. Blue Blood detail jeans [photographed: 20 October 2012] Fashion environment Dekkers.N., 2012. Blue Blood store, Amsterdam [photographed: 20 October 2012]

fashionunited. http://www.fashionunited.nl/Nieuws/Columns/Cheap_ Monday_opent_digitale_%27Sneak_Peak_Shop%27_2012082737122/ [viewed: 14 October 2012]

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New store Copenhagen. http://www.fash ionunited.nl/Nieuws/Show/ Cheap_Monday_ geopend_2009120726737 [viewed: 12 October 2012]

Interviews Bootmans, K., Employee at V&D Eindhoven.

Image source

Store visites Cars Vrijstraat 11 5611 AT Eindhoven

Campagne picture The fashionisto. http://thefashionisto.com/mode/cheap-mondayembraces-weird-for-their-springsummer-2013-collection/ [viewed: 22 October 2012] Detail Jeans Brok.C., 2012, Cheap Monday detail jeans. [photographed: 20 October 2012]

V&D Kalverstraat 203 1012 XC Amsterdam

Cars profile http://www.carsjeans.nl [viewed: 12 October 2012]

Blue Blood

Ian Allen, 2012, Courtesy of 3x1. http://www.yatzer.com/assets/Article/2818/images/3x1-soho-nycyatzer-1.jpg [viewed: 22 October 2012]

fashionunited, http://www.fashionunited.nl/Nieuws/Show/Cheap_ Monday_geopend_2009120726737/ [viewed: 14 October 2012]

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Logo Acne Acne Studios profile. www.acnestudios.com [viewed: 24 October 2012]

Fashion environment Dana DeCoursey, 2011, 3x1 Made Here. http://bullett.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/ uploads/2012/06/1_3x1-1500x1200.jpg [viewed: 24 October 2012]

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Denham Books M. Miller, Woodward. S., 2012,The Art of the Ordinary. Bleu jeans. paperback, London.

Miller. D, Woodward. S., 2011, Global denim. MPG books group. USA.

Carshttp://www.carsjeans.nl/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/menlookbook1.jpg [viewed: 12 October 2012] Ht back drops. http://www.htbackdrops.com/v2/albums/ userpics/10150/Ilse_delange1.jpg [viewed: 12 October 2012] Details jeans Sake store. http://www.sakestore.nl/media/catalog/product/c/a/carsjeans-bjorn2.jpg [viewed: 12 October 2012]

Marsh. G, Trynka. P., 2005, Denim. From cowboys to catwalks: a visual history of the world’s most legendary fabric. London.

Store Visites Bijenkorf Coolsingel 105 3012 AG Rotterdam Diesel Heiligeweg 15 1012 XN Amsterdam

Ztat. http://i1.ztat.net/large/C7/42/4A/00/59/53/C7424A005953@3.1.jpg [viewed: 12 October 2012]

Websites Berlin Blogspot. http://14oz-berlin.blogspot.nl/2012/01/denham-service-co-14-ozbasement-18-20.html [viewed: 14 October 2012]

Fashion environment Jonker. Y., 2012. fashion environment William Rast. [photographed: 14 October 2012]

Denham profile. http://www.denhamthejeanmaker.com [viewed: 12 October 2012]

Logo Cars Blogspot. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_HxWiEe0JSDc/TAjqCzh6msI/ AAAAAAAAABA/noJARvqkZ6Q/s1600/Cars+logo+2010.JPG [viewed: 12 October 2012]

Cheap Monday Websites Cheap Monday profile. http://www.cheapmonday.com [viewed: 9 October 2012]

DenimHunsters. http://denimhunters.com/history/european/denham [viewed: 12 October 2012] Denimology. http://www.denimology.com/2009/08/jason_denham_-_interview.php [viewed: 14 October 2012] Revolversf. http://www.revolversf.com/blogs/news/1678062-designer-profiledenham-the-jeanmaker [viewed: 14 October 2012]

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3x1

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Thekdu. http://thekdu.net/denham/2011/04/07/%E2%80%9Cdenh am-service-co-%E2%80%9D/ [viewed: 15 October 2012]

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Image Source Campagne picture Stuarts london blog. http://www.stuartslondon.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/ Denham-Intro.jpg [viewed: 19 October 2012]

Ezine Articles. http://ezinearticles.com/?The-History-of-Diesel-JeansBrand&id=3371704 [viewed: 15 October 2012] Great Denim. http://www.greatdenim.com/diesel-jeans/ [viewed: 16 October 2012]

Details jeans Denham profile. http://www.denhamthejeanmaker html [date.com/cards/webstore/all/ all/0-20/list. [viewed: 23 October 2012]

Image Source Campagne picture Diesel profile, http://www.diesel.com/campaign [viewed: 19 October 2012]

Oz Jeans. http://www.ozjeans.com/denham-ss-womens-lookbook/ [viewed: 19 October 2012]

Details jeans Denim Blog, http://www.denimblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/ diesel-fit-for-life.png [viewed: 19 October 2012]

Store diesel. http://store.diesel.com/ [viewed: 19 October 2012] Fashion environment Denham profile. http://www.denhamthejeanmaker.com/#/card/1400/ the-denham-women-s-boutique.json [viewed: 20 October 2012]

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Denham profile. http://www.denhamthejeanmaker.com/#/card/108/ denham-store-495.json [viewed: 20 October 2012] Logo Denham Denham. http://www.Denham.com [viewed: 17 October 2012]

Store diesel, http://store.diesel.com/ [viewed: 19 October 2012]

Articles Diesel Case Study, Branded Hedonism Enric Gili Fort | ID520 Communication Planning | Fall 2010 | Institute of Design, IIT [viewed: 16 October 2012]

Books Marsh. G, Trynka. P., 2005, Denim. From cowboys to catwalks: a visual history of the world’s most legendary fabric. Aurum Press, London.

M. Miller, Woodward. S., 2012,The Art of the Ordinary. Bleu jeans. paperback, London.

Miller. D, Woodward. S., 2011, Global denim. MPG books group. USA.

Interview mailing HQ Diesel Benelux Hugo van der Goeslaan 2 5613 LG Eindhoven, Netherlands (benelux_hr@diesel.com)

Store Visites Bijenkorf Diesel shop-in-shop Coolsingel 105 3012 AG Rotterdam

Diesel Flagship store Heiligeweg 15 1012 XN Amsterdam Websites Business case studies,http://businesscasestudies.co.uk/diesel/livebreathe-and-wear-passion/introduction.html [viewed: 15 October 2012]

WPC. http://wpc.4d27.edgecastcdn.net/004D27/Ad%20Campaigns/ Dsquared2Fall212/Dsquared+Fall+2012+Ad+Campaign+1.jpg [Viewed: 18 October 2012] Details jeans Cdn 103. http://cdn103.iofferphoto.com/img3/item/150/774/833/ hot-2011-new-dsquared2-jeans-dsquared-men-s-jeans-d2-d216.jpg [Viewed: 18 October 2012] Dartagnan menswear. http://images.dartagnanmenswear.co.uk/ dartagnanmenswear/17b00c3d-a33e-4658-b265-a4ca64bb64f2/85. jpgx [Viewed: 18 October 2012] Love and chic. www.loveandchic.com/illustr/goodphotos/ mediumimages/30870.jpg [Viewed: 18 October 2012] Fashion environment Vanity by. /vanityby.blogspot.nl/2009_04_01_archive.html [Viewed: 18 October 2012] Flickr. http://flickrhivemind.net/Tags/deandan/Interesting [Viewed: 18 October 2012]

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Dsquarded2

Fashion lover. http://fashionlover.com/wpcontent/uploads/2010/09/ DsuaredStoreMilano.jpg [Viewed: 18 October 2012] Logo Dsquared2 Denim Blog. http://www.denimblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/ prps-logo.jpg [Viewed: 23 October 2012]

Edwin Websites Edwin profile. http://www.edwin-europe.com [viewed: 15 October 2012] Its in your jeans ltd. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xFWpiVEgmGE [viewed: 15 October 2012]

Interviews Kloks, R., Manager Match Laren.

Vimeo. http://vimeo.com/38745244 [viewed: 15 October 2012]

Store visites Match Laren Brink 11 1251 KR Laren

Vimeo. http://vimeo.com/38228872 [viewed: 15 October 2012]

Blogspot, http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_kSaGOTLVjU0/TSLfYERT__I/ AAAAAAAAAFA/gNxLQo1iXAU/s1600/edwin+505x.png [viewed: 15 October 2012] Sfaar, http://www.sfaar.ee/store/files/2012/09/edwin-sen-blackskinny-red-selvage-raw-state-4_1024x1024.jpg [viewed: 15 October 2012] Fashion environment Denim hunters, http://denimhunters.com/wp-content/ uploads/2012/03/Billede-15.jpg [viewed: 15 October 2012] Sb tv, http://sbtv.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_6044.jpg [viewed: 15 October 2012] Logo Edwin Brands of the world. http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/logo/edwin-jeans [viewed: 15 October 2012]

Guess Websites Business week. http://www. businessweek.com/magazine/ content/06_51/ b4014079.htm [viewed: 16 October 2012] Guess profile. http://www.guess.eu [viewed: 12 October 2012] Guess profile. http://www.guess.com/worldofguess/# [viewed: 12 October 2012] Guess profile. http://www.guess.com/worldofguess/#/bios [viewed: 12 October 2012] Guess profile. http://www.guess.com/worldofguess/#/heritage [viewed: 12 October 2012] Guess profile. http://www.guess.com/worldofguess/#/philanthropy [viewed: 12 October 2012] Guess profile. http://www.guess.com/worldofguess/#/missionstatement [viewed: 12 October 2012] Guess profile. http://www.guess.com/worldofguess/#/ campaign2012SpringGuess [viewed: 12 October 2012] LA times. http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/alltherage/2012/04/ guess-celebrates-30-years-with-capsule-collection-book.html [viewed: 12 October 2012]

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Shot by Jake. http://www.shotbyjake.com/wp-content/gallery/ cache/1086__900x_2011-shotbyjake.com-7649.jpg [viewed: 15 October 2012]

Details jeans Zalando. http://www.zalando.nl/guess-foxy-jeans-blauwgu123a003-961.html [viewed: 20 October 2012]

Kymyka. http://www.kymyka.nl/index.php?option=com_content&view= article&id=127&Itemid=189 [Viewed: 17 October 2012]

Image Source Campagne picture Frillr. http://frillr.com/files/images/DSquared2%20Spring-Summer%20 2008%20Womens%20Ad%20Campaign.preview.jpg [Viewed: 18 October 2012]

Details jeans Sane communications. http://www.sanecommunications.com/wpcontent/uploads/2011/10/IMG_9745.jpg [viewed: 15 October 2012] Denim Hunters, http://denimhunters.com/wp-content/ uploads/2011/11/P10104551.jpg [viewed: 15 October 2012]

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5election. http://5election.com/2010/01/17/denham-the-dutch-jeansmaker/#translate-nl [viewed: 15 October 2012]

Websites Bright. http://www.bright.nl/shop-voor-een-sustainable-style [viewed: 15 October 2012] Ecofabs, http://ecofabs.nl/ecofabs-amsterdam-duurzaam-3-juli [viewed:20 October 2012] Eco fashion world, http://www.ecofashionworld.com/Recycled-Clothing/ detail/Intoxica/onecat/Resources+Eco-Criteria+Recycled/0.html [viewed: 10 October 2012]

PedestrianTv. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cKfqSBja6o [viewed: 17 October 2012] Planetnotion. http://www.planetnotion.com/2011/12/19/interviewksubi/ [viewed: 17 October 2012] Robert Waczynski. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsKdDlMXKXQ [viewed: 17 October 2012] Style.http://www.style.com/stylefile/2010/04/ksubis-content-to-letthe-good-times-roll/[viewed 17 October 2012]

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Onze wereld, http://www.onzewereld.nl/index php?page=3_1&articleId=701 [viewed: 20 October 2012]

Image Source Campagne picture Angurs hamel. http://www.angusrshamal.com/wp-content/ uploads/2011/05/kolors2.jpg [viewed: 17 October 2012]

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Image source Campaign picture Intoxica profile. http://www.intoxica- jeanss.com/ [viewed: 22 October 2012] Details jeans billet doux store. http://billetdouxstore.blogspot.nl/2007/09/intoxicajeans.html [viewed: 22 October 2012] Logo Intoxica Intoxica hyves. http://intoxica.hyves.nl/ [viewed: 20 October 2012]

I offer photo. http://cdn102.iofferphoto.com/img/item/709/834/01/ celeb-favor-ksubi-tsubi-super-skinny-zip-jeans-squawk-bbc55.jpg [viewed: 17 October 2012] Style likeu. http://stylelikeu.com/upload/photos/orig_tn_ photo-40578-589.jpg [viewed: 17 October 2012] I offer photo. http://cdn102.iofferphoto.com/img/item/709/834/01/ celeb-favor-ksubi-tsubi-super-skinny-zip-jeans-squawk-bbc55.jpg [viewed: 17 October 2012] Fashion environment Blogspot. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZWA31MPwwC0/S9Ene5FkE1I/ AAAAAAAAGC8/ZLu5OJXnvv4/s1600/ksubi+002.jpg [viewed: 17 October 2012]

Ksubi Websites Anthem Magazine. http://vimeo.com/2206902 [viewed: 17 October 2012] Dazed&Confused. http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/ article/10278/1/exclusive-ksubi-kolors-film [viewed: 17 October 2012]

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Details jeans Blogspot. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/a1uRs8UdiZg/TmbsIr6C4pI/ AAAAAAAAxB8/OotAGlC03CU/s1600/IMG_0562.JPG [viewed: 17 October 2012]

Blogspot. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kv3q5UvoVuQ/TtHuOxcGAgI/ AAAAAAAAAVA/aQbrfT8bTIw/s1600/P1012129.JPG [viewed: 17 October 2012] Scoop. http://scoop.intel.com/files/2012/07/Ksubi_will-i-am_cutting. png [viewed: 17 October 2012] Logo Ksubi Ottica-isee. http://www.ottica-isee.it/image/data/Loghi/Ksubi%20 Logo%202010.jpg?_route_=shop/image/data/Loghi/Ksubi%20 Logo%202010.jpg [viewed: 17 October 2012]

Lee Store visites Lee store Alte Schönhauser Straße 38, 10119 Berlin

Versheid, www.versheid.com/2012/01/levis-store-in-amsterdamgeopend/ [viewed: 18 October 2012] Image source Campaign picture Wieden + Kennedy. www.wk.com/campaign/curve_id [viewed: 24 October 2012]

Websites Gooseuk. www.gooseuk.com [viewed: 15 October 2012]

Details jeans SidMashBurn. www.bootic.com/sidmashburn/_shop/levi-s-501-r-jeanblack [viewed: 24 October 2012]

Lee history. www.eu.lee.com/home [viewed: 9 October 2012]

Fashion environment. Versheid. www.versheid.com/2012/01/levisstore-in-amsterdam-geopend/ [viewed: 24 October 2012]

Lee profile. www.lee.com [viewed: 11 October 2012]

Logo Levi’s Brands of the world. www.brandsoftheworld.com [viewed: 24 October 2012]

123 help me. www.123helpme.com [viewed: 17 October 2012] Image source Campaign picture Lee. www.eu.lee.com [viewed: 15 October 2012] Tumblr lee. lee101.tumblr.com [viewed: 15 October 2012]

Lois Denim Interview Veen.M., Marketing Coordinator Lois Denim.

Detail jeans Eu lee. www.eu.lee.com [viewed: 15 October 2012] Tumbl. lee101.tumblr.com [viewed: 15 October 2012]

Websites A Janaku. http://ajanaku.com/a-day-in-valencia-with-lois/ [viewed: 13 October 2012]

Fashion Environment Wusteféld. M., 2012, Lee store Berlin. [photographed: 22 October 2012] Logo Lee Brands of the world. www.brandsoftheworld.com [viewed:17 October 2012]

Fashionunited. http://www.fashionunited.nl/Nieuws/Leads/Lois_klaar_ voor_terugkeer_naar_eenentwintig_landen_2011120134645/ [viewed: 13 October 2012] Just like sushi. http://justlikesushi.creatorsofdesire.com/going-emeraldlois/ [viewed: 13 October 2012] Lois denim profile. http://www.loisdenim.com/ [viewed: 13 October 2012]

Levi’s

Books Klaus N. Hang, 2006, The Denim Bible Jeans Encyclopedia II, Sportswear International, Frankfurt/Main.

Store visites Levi’s Kalverstraat 55 1012NZ Amsterdam Websites Esquire. www.esquire.nl/Stijlencyclopedie/Levi-s-mikt-op-jong-enhongerig [viewed: 18 October 2012] Levi’s. eu.levi.com/en_GB/craftofmusic [viewed: 18 October 2012] Levi Strauss. levistrauss.com/sites/default/files/ librarydocument/2011/4/levistrauss-annualreport-2010.pdf [viewed: 18 October 2012] Levi’s 501 Integrated marketing strategy. faculty.darden.virginia.edu/ farrisp/IMC/files/ppt/Competition/Levi6.pdf [viewed: 18 October 2012] Slideshare. www.slideshare.net/sdaadil/levis-strauss-jeans [viewed: 18 October 2012]

Supercollider. geoffnorthcott.com/blog/2010/06/digital-retailexperiences-opportunities-and-trends/ [viewed: 18 October 2012]

Nsmbl. http://www.nsmbl.com/lauras-diary-valencia-with-lois-jeans/ [viewed: 13 October 2012]

Images source Campagne picture, Facebook, https://www.facebook.com/photo. php?fbid=313753772056599&set=pb.101583499940295.2207520000.1351419416&type=3&theater [viewed: 15 October 2012] Facebook, https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=29660823043 7820&set=pb.101583499940295.-2207520000.1351419416&type= 3&theater [viewed: 15 October 2012] Details jeans, Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/photo. php?fbid=211276425637668&set=pb.101583499940295.2207520000.1351419889&type=3&theater [viewed: 20 October 2012] Fashion environment, Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php? fbid=325610080870968&set=a.324922377606405.69228.1015834 99940295&type=1&theater [viewed: 15 October 2012] Logo Lois jeans Brands of the world. http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/logo/lois-0 [viewed: 15 October 2012] Stand Lois “Bullshit”., 2012 Bread and Butter.

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Intoxica

Nudie Jeans Co. Books Klaus N. Hang, 2006, The Denim Bible Jeans Encyclopedia II, Sportswear International, Frankfurt/Main Unknown, 2010, The Denim Bible Jeans Encyclopedia III, Sportswear International, Frankfurt/Main Magazines Nudie Jeans Co., 2012, Maria has the word, The Nudie Jeans Post, p. 2 Nudie Jeans Co., 2012, Denim Voices, The Nudie Jeans Post, p. 8-9

Store Visites Bijenkorf Dam 1 1012 JS Amsterdam

8e253ef0163044c0fa370d-800wi [viewed: 14 October 2012] Selvedgeyard. http://theselvedgeyard.wordpress.com/2012/03/18/ the-prps-noir-collection-vintage-reinterpreted-world-class-denim/ [viewed: 14 October 2012]

V&D Pepe Jeans shop-in-shop Hoogstraat 185 3011 PM Rotterdam Centrum

Fashion environment

Websites Nova FM. http://www.novafm.com.au/article/pepe-jeans-fashion-philosophy [viewed: 18 October 2012] Oxbridge writers. http://www.oxbridgewriters.com/essays/business/fastestgrowingdenimandcasual-wearbrands.php [viewed: 18 October 2012]

Selvedgeyard. http://theselvedgeyard.wordpress.com/2012/03/18/ the-prps-noir-collection-vintage-reinterpreted-world-class-denim/ [viewed: 14 October 2012]

Logo PRPS, Denim Blog. http://www.denimblog.com/wp-content/ uploads/2008/11/prps-logo.jpg [viewed: 23 October 2012]

http://www.pepejeans.com/home/history.html [viewed: 18 October 2012]

Nudie Jeans Co profile. www.nudiejeans.com [viewed: 7 October 2012]

Books

PRPS

Nudie Jeans Co. Blog. www.blog.nudiejeans.com [viewed: 7 October 2012]

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Nudie Jeans Co. PPT. www.classes.bus.oregonstate.edu [viewed: 11 October 2012] De 9 beste eco spijkerbroekmerken. www.hetkanwel.nl [viewed: 10 October 2012]

Image source

Interviews Verwers, R,. Manager Sartoria Naarden.

Store visites Sartoria Kooltjesbuurt 1 14 11 RZ Naarden

Campaign picture Nudie Jeans Co profile. www.nudiejeans.com [viewed: 7 October 2012]

Websites Denimology. http://www.denimology.com/2011/11/prps_japan_by_donwan_harrell. php [Viewed: 12 October 2012]

Nudie Jeans Co Blog. blog.nudiejeans.com [viewed: 7 October 2012]

Facebook. http://www.facebook.com/prpscollection [viewed: 11 October 2012]

Details jeans Nudie Jeans Co Profile. www.nudiejeans.com [viewed: 7 October 2012]

Hyperbeats. http://hypebeast.com/2011/12/a-conversation-with-donwan-harrell-ofprps/[viewed: 11 October 2012]

Nudie Jeans Co Blog. blog.nudiejeans.com [viewed: 7 October 2012]

Hyperbeats. http://hypebeast.com/2012/08/essentials-donwan-harrell/ [viewed: 11 October 2012]

Fashion environment Nudie Jeans Co. Profile. www.nudiejeans.com [viewed: 7 October 2012]

PRPS profile. http://www.prpsgoods.com [viewed: 10 October 2012]

Nudie Jeans Co. Blog. blog.nudiejeans.com [viewed: 7 October 2012]

Style.com. http://http://www.style.com/search/?cx=0108581783668 68418930%3Aiiy4mfznaiq&q=prps&cof=FORID%3A11 [viewed: 10 October 2012]

Logo Nudie Jeans Co World of brand. www.worldofbrand.com [viewed: 22 October 2012]

Style.com. http://www.style.com/stylefile/2008/08/one-from-the-boys-prps-iscutting-for-girls/ [viewed: 10 October 2012]

Pepe Jeans Books M. Miller, Woodward. S., 2012,The Art of the Ordinary. Bleu jeans. paperback, London.

Miller. D, Woodward. S., 2011, Global denim. MPG books group. USA. Marsh. G, Trynka. P., 2005, Denim. From cowboys to catwalks: a visual history of the world’s most legendary fabric. Aurum Press, London.

Store Visiting Peek & Cloppenburg

Denim hunt. http://www.denimhunt.com/.a/6a00d83420b8e253ef016 3044c0fa370d-800wi [viewed: 14 October 2012]

Van Dijk Waalwijk, http://www.vandijkwaalwijk.nl/blog/page/6/ [viewed: 14 October 2012]

Pepe Jeans profile. http://www.pepejeans.com/home/history.html [viewed: 18 October 2012]

Websites Duurzame jeans spijkerbroek. www.rankabrand.com [viewed: 10 October 2012]

SCOTCH%20AND%20SODA [viewed: 20 October 2012]

Style.com. http://www.style.com/stylefile/tag/prps/ [viewed: 10 October 2012] Twitter inc. http://www.twitter.com/prpscollection [viewed: 11 October 2012]

Image Source Campagne picture PRPS, profile. http://www.prpsgoods.com [viewed: 14 October 2012] Details jeans, Denimhunt. http://www.denimhunt.com/.a/6a00d83420b

Scotch and Soda

Scotch Shrunk. fall/winter 2012-2013.

Intervieuws Kleijsen, R., Visual merchandiser, Scotch & Soda, Breda.

Store visites Scotch & Soda Houtmarkt 1 4811JC Breda Websites Denim plus. http://www.denimplus.nl/Scotch-amp-Soda-mf-42.html [viewed: 12 October 2012] Fashionunited. http://www.fashionunited.nl/option,com_jobline/ task,view/id,23263/ [viewed: 11 October 2012]

Interviews

Stone Island

Kloks, R., Manager Match Laren.

Store visites Match Laren Brink 11 1251 KR Laren Websites CP Company. http://www.cpcompany.com [Viewed: 19 October 2012] CP Company. http://store.cpcompany.com/home.asp?tskay=BD387244 &gender=season/fw/id/3794 [Viewed: 19 October 2012] CP Company. http://www.cpcompany.co.uk/features/brand-history/ page/brandhistory/ [Viewed: 19 October 2012] CP Company. http://www.cpcompany.com/#/filosofia/ [Viewed: 19 October 2012] Love to have. http://www.lovestohave.com/brand/stone-island [Viewed: 19 October 2012] May clothing. http://www.maysclothing.co.uk/stone-island-history.html [Viewed: 19 October 2012] Osti-Archive. http://www.osti-archive.com/blog/2012/07/20/stoneisland-archivio-‘982-‘012-30th-anniversary-book/ [Viewed: 19 October 2012] Stone Island profile. http://www.stoneisland.com [Viewed: 19 October 2012] Stone Island. http://www.stoneisland-corporate.com/en/history/ [Viewed: 19 October 2012]

Scotch & Soda profile. http://www.scotch-soda.com [viewed: 9 October 2012]

Stone Island http://www.stoneisland-corporate.com/en/philosophy/ [Viewed: 19 October 2012]

Texas radio hamilton. http://www.texasradiohamilton.co.nz/scotchsoda-denim-jeans-hamilton-new-zealand/ [viewed: 11 October 2012]

Image Source

Wag magazine. http://wadmag.com/words/ breaking-news/scotchsoda-amsterdam-shop/ [viewed: 12 October 2012] Source image Campagne picture Scotch and Soda. http://www.scotch-soda.com/en/collection/ campaign/category/men [viewed: 22 October] Details jeans Brok.C., 2012, Details jeans, Scotch & Soda. [viewed: 22 October] fashion environment, the denim gay. http://thedenimguy.com/wpcontent/uploads/2011/09/Scotch-Store-11.jpg [viewed: 23 October 2012] Wadmag. http://wadmag.com/words/breaking-news/scotch-soda-newstore-in-berlin/ [viewed: 23 October 2012]

Campagne picture NYC Fashion. http://nyc-fashion.com/stone-island-spring-summer-2012ad-campaign/ [viewed: 19 October 2012] Details jeans BBC Clothing. http://blog.bbclothing.co.uk/2010/01/08/new-stoneisland-badged-jeans-for-ss2010/ [viewed: 19 October 2012] Dapper http://www.dapperdesignerwear.co.uk/p47698/Stone-Island-Jeans/c09492-9492 [viewed: 19 October 2012] Found http://www.found-nyc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90870 [viewed: 19 October 2012] Jethwas. http://www.jethwas.co.uk/StoneIsland.aspx [viewed: 19 October 2012]

Brok.C., 2012, fashion environment. Scotch & Soda, Breda. [photographed: 21 October 2012]

Oipolloi. http://www.oipolloi.com/30-years-of-stone-island [viewed: 19 October 2012]

Logo Scotch & Soda Brands of the world, http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/search/logo/

Fashion environment, http://pop-professor.blogspot.nl/2011/12/icejacket-display-stone-island.html

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Pepe Jeans shop-in-shop Hoogstraat 200 3011 PV Rotterdam

Think. http://www.think19.com/?p=263 [Viewed: 19 October 2012] Kenton magazine, http://kentonmagazine.com/stone-island-30-goes-public-in-florence/ [viewed: 19 October 2012] Questmag https://questmag.com/blog/stone-island-celebrates-30-years/ [viewed: 19 October 2012]

Logo Stone Island Brands of the world, http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/logo/stoneisland [viewed: 23 October 2012]

True Religion Websites AdAge 2008. http://adage.com/article/print-edition/true-religion-amarketing-50-case-study/132417/ [viewed: 19 October 2012] CNN 2009. http://money.cnn.com/2009/11/16/ news/companies/ true_religion_jeans.fortune/ index.htm [viewed : 17 October 2012]

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Fashion United. http://www.fashionunited.nl/Nieuws/Leads/True_ Religion%3A_meer_merkwinkels_in_Europa_2010072730811/ [viewed: 17 October 2012] MRketplace 2011. http://www.mrketplace. com/3741/true-religionbrand-steps-into-shoes-and-accessories/ [viewed: 17 October 2012] Moldalvski 2008. http://philmoldavski.wordpress. com/2008/12/24/ true-religion-a-marketing-suc cess/ [viewed: 17 October 2012]

Details jeans, http://www.accentclothing.com/media/catalog/ product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d2713 6e95/1/1/111647_mens_truereligion_jeans_rickysuper_195.jpg [viewed: 19 October 2012] Metabr.http://www.metabr.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/ IMG_0990.jpg[viewed: 19 October 2012] Fashion environment Business week. http://www.businessweek.com/managing/management_ innovation/blog/archives/Bev%20Center%20Opening%2005%20 21%2009%20028.JPG [viewed: 19 October 2012] Vgo corp. http://www.vgocorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/ FSO9377.jpg [viewed: 19 October 2012] Unifa jades. http://www.unifa.jades24.com/TrueReligion/TrueReligionStoreOpenings/ Berlin/Store/StoreBereich.jpg [viewed: 19 October 2012] Logo True Religion 202.133.122.159. http://202.133.122.159/blog/true%20religion%20 logo.jpg [viewed: 19 October 2012]

William Rast Magazines Feugere, S., 2009 “Just In Jeans”, Vogue Paris, May 2009, p. 109-104 [viewed: 14 October 2012] Guirelle, e.

2010 “Southern Comfort”, Teen Vogue, October 2010, p. 90 [viewed: 14 October 2012] Lucienne Jaques,2010 “Required Year” Nylon, September 2010, p. 106 [viewed: 14 October 2012]

Oregon University 2010. http://uoinvestment group.org/wp-content/ uploads/2010/11/Trlg-update.pdf [viewed: 17 October 2012]

n/a , 2008 “Justin Takes New York”, People, Sep tember 22, 2008, p.

136-138 [viewed: 14 October 2012]

Papers 2006. http://www.oppapers.com/essays/ implementation-Truereligion-Jeans/90978 [viewed: 19 October 2012]

Websites Erica Jennings. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4n818FN4DqI [viewed: 14 October 2012]

True Religion. http://www.truereligionbrandjeans.com/counterfeit_ products.html [viewed: 17 October 2012]

Mairi 2008. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNUlNkCUQqQ&feature=related [viewed: 14 October 2012]

True Religion. http://www.truereligionbrandjeans.com/company_profile. aspx [viewed: 17 October 2012]

Mairi 2008. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzSgwVVxolY&feature=relmfu [viewed: 14 October 2012]

Image Source

Selectism 2009. http://www.selectism.com/ news/2009/03/18/atwork-with-william-rasts-johan-marcella-lindeberg/ [viewed: 14 October 2012]

Campagne picture Alexi Lubomirski, http://www.alexilubomirski.com/galleries/t/11_292_ TR.jpg [viewed: 19 October 2012] The fashionisto. http://www.thefashionisto.com/d/2012/7/true002.jpg [viewed: 19 October 2012] Got celeb. http://www.gotceleb.com/wp-content/uploads/celebrities/ candice-swanepoel/true-religion-jeans-ads-2011/candice-swanepoeltrue-religion-jeans-ads-2011-04.jpg [viewed: 19 October 2012] Show stalker. http://showstalker.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/ candice-swanepoel-jeans-001.jpg [viewed: 19 October 2012]

William Rast Profile. http://www.williamrast.com/about.html [viewed: 14 October 2012]

Image Source Campagne picture Beauty confessional. http://www.beautyconfessional.net/ images/2008/08/29/justin_timberlake_william_rast_trac.jpg [viewed: 14 October 2012]

Refined bro. http://refinedbro.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/justin_ timberlake_william_rast_tr_5.jpg [viewed: 14 October 2012]

The fashionisto. http://thefashionisto.com/wp-content/ uploads/2008/07/william_rast_justin_timberlake_3.jpg [viewed: 14 October 2012] Details jeans Ebayimg. http://i.ebayimg.com/t/WILLIAM-RAST-JERRI-WOMENS-ULTRASKINNY-SLIM-FIT-DARK-DENIM-JEANS-SIZE-24-NEW-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjA w/$(KGrHqZHJDQE7y9+vCcpBPD6o2,00w~~60_57.JPG [viewed: 14 October 2012] Ebayimg. http://i.ebayimg.com/t/WILLIAM-RAST-SAVOY-WOMENS-SLIMFLARE-LEG-LIGHT-BLUE-JEANS-SIZE-25x33-NEW-175-/00/s/MTIwMFgxN jAw/$(KGrHqFHJCEE7zCqyvKEBPCi+Du07!~~60_57.JPG [viewed: 14 October 2012] Fashion environment, Denimaniac. http://denimaniac.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/william-rast01.jpg [viewed: 14 October 2012] Wwd.http://www.wwd.com/images/processed/wwd/2009/11/06/ william-rast/landscape/01-large/william-rast01.jpg [viewed: 14 October 2012] Logo William Ras, Jonker.Y., 2012, logo William Rast. [viewed: 14 October 2012]

Bronnen Shoot Asia Unknown. 22 January 2009, Tokyo Street Scene. http://commons. wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Tokyo_street_3.jpg [viewed: 28 October 2012] Switzerland Van der Vinne, A., July 2010, Switzerland.

America Kooiman, A., 2009, New York.

Australia Celine, 12 March 2012, Australia. From: http://celine80.wordpress. com/2007/03/12/australie/ [viewed: 28 October 2012] Italy John, E., August 2011, A typical Italian street. From: http://blogs. cornell.edu/coreyabroad/tag/parma/ [viewed: 28 October 2012]

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[viewed: 19 October 2012]