Inside Napa Valley: Summer/Fall 2021 by Napa Register

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napa valley Summer/Fall 2021

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It’s a Small World Canine care returns The grains of Napa Filipino resilience Getting to Know You: Linsey Gallagher An artist in wood Amphibians around us Great Estates Pairings with Cab Living the Life Donkey rescue Getting on Track For the love of trees Crossword puzzle Food Trucks of Napa County A Napa classic: Sally Gordon

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Summer in the Napa Valley S E A N S C U L LY D i re ctor of Ne w s C onte nt

i. I am sitting as editor for this issue as Napa Valley Publishing searches for a new president and ad director to take over for the retiring Davis Taylor. Hopef u l l y, w e c a n introduce our new leader in the November issue of Inside Napa Valley magazine. In the meantime, we’ll bring you the same eclectic mix of news and profiles and features that have made Inside Napa Valley such a hit over the years (did we mention “award-winning” too? Can’t forget that). This issue, we’ll visit with a SUMMER/FALL 2021

artist in the carpentry shop and join in as a local beermaker harvests the Napa Valley’s heritage grains for his latest brew. We’ll learn about the amphibious wildlife around us and how to care for the trees that beautify our landscape. We’ll learn about a new non-profit rescuing stranded, abandoned and unwanted donkeys (did you know that can make great pets? Read on). We’ll visit with Small World restaurant in Napa and with a taco truck turning out the best fish tacos this side of the Baja California border. We’ll learn how a Napa private school used their annual fundraising race to give the kids a little touch of normalcy,

and how a canine therapy organization is slowly recovering from the pandemic. We’ll meet a longtime resident who reflects on the changes she’s seen in Napa and we’ll meet the head of the organization dedicated to luring visitors to our lovely corner of the world. We’ll learn about healthy food pairings with Napa County’s iconic Cabs, and we’ll take a peek inside a spectacular estate in the hills not all that far from St. Helena and Napa. And as always, we’ll bring you some of our favorite articles of the last few months from the Napa Valley Publishing family of newspapers. So take a moment to enjoy

the last few weeks of summer and join us for this edition of Inside Napa Valley. On the Cover: Events are slowly returning to the Napa Valley, courtesy of Bob McClenahan, bobmcclenahan.com. Editor’s note: Many of you will be receiving this edition by mail, the sixth time we have distributed our free quarterly magazine to postal customers in and around Napa. If you like what you see and want to be part of supporting local journalism, please consider becoming a member at napavalleyregister. com /members. INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 3

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Ahmad Ali Musa (“Mike”), owner of Napa’s Middle Eastern Small World Restaurant, prepares for the lunch crowd with General Manager Rico Gramlich in 2017.

It’s a Small World Napa restaurant brings far-flung cuisine to a cozy downtown Napa spot CRAIG SMITH Small World Restaurant has been serving Mediterranean food at 932 Coombs, between First and Second Streets, since 1995. Three of the most popular items on the menu are the falafels, hummus and shawarma, but count on seeing happy patrons eating burgers and fries as well. The website describes the menu as “Food from Nazareth and around the World.” Owner Mike Ali Musa says the emphasis is “between Middle Eastern and Islamic (Jewish) food. I named it ‘Small World’ because we live in small world, and everybody should come together.” Every year, Mike changes one or two things on the menu, just to keep it interesting for regulars. “This year, we added a fish burger. It’s fried cod tail on a brioche bun with all the fixings, plus green cabbage, parsley and one of three cheeses. People like it a lot.” For that matter, people like Small World a lot. You’d be hard pressed to find a time of day when they aren’t filled with customers. 6 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Mike was born in Nazareth, Israel. His father is, in his words, “one of the best chefs, period.” Dad owned a restaurant, and even as a child; Mike wanted to do the same thing. The Ali Musa family moved to LA in 1980, and vacationed in Napa. “My father and uncles had train sets, and we would stop at the Loose Caboose every year so they could buy something new. Who knew I’d own a restaurant just blocks away.” Much of his family relocated to Napa in 1988. One of Mike’s uncles owned Valley Liquor Market, where Mike worked until he opened the restaurant. The first year was a challenge for Small World. Downtown Napa had a lot of vacancies, and getting known took a while. “Napa was dead. We used to close at 3 p.m. The only people on the streets were skaters. Mike said his landlord, Mike Danelen, saved him. “He took me to his warehouse, loaded two coolers in a truck

Without hesitating, he said, “You want to work? Be here tomorrow.” Mike takes good care of his employees, and is thankful for everyone who works with him. Out of a staff of nine, most have been with him over ten years. During COVID, no one left. Getting Mike to talk about his staff in this way took a little prodding. “I’m not trying to sound like anything special,” he said. “Life is short. We’re all one, and we need to look out for each other.” He believes that everybody deserves a second chance, or even a third. He is also a dedicated family man. It’s not unusual to find uncles and cousins at the restaurant. He and wife Jennifer have four children, and Mike says they practically grew up at Small World. They all go to Israel every year to visit with relatives. “My kids have never had a vacation here, but they love their aunts and uncles and cousins. Besides, Nazareth and the beaches are beautiful.” Mike has ready advice for anyone wishing to get into the restaurant business. “If you can take the heat, get in the kitchen. It’s not as easy as it looks, though.” Small World has international regulars, as well as lots of locals who frequent the place. The restaurant is open six days a week. With a twinkle in his eye, Mike explains that, “God wants Sundays off, and so do I.”

and brought them to me, free of charge. When we were having trouble making rent the first year, he told me not to pay rent for four months. He was one of the most humble, sweet guys I’ve known.” When Danelen was dying, he demanded that Mike find and hand him their lease agreement. His landlord took out a pen, and across the bottom of the document wrote, “Should the building ever be for sale, Mike has the right of first refusal to buy it.” Mike took advantage of the generous move, and has owned the building for 15 years. More importantly, Mike remembers the kindness his landlord showed him, and has passed it on since opening the restaurant. Two of his employees were homeless when he hired them. One had just gotten out of prison. Mike witnessed, right across the street from the restaurant, a woman get hit by a man who turned out to be her husband. Mike asked her Craig Smith is executive direcwhy she stayed with him, and she tor of the Downtown Napa said that she had no money or job. Association. SUMMER/FALL 2021

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WHO LET THE DOGS IN Canine-assisted therapy plans a comeback

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Suzanne Lavallee, president and founder of Stellina, with Margaux, her female Belgian Malinois.

8 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

JESSICA ZIMMER

s pandemic restrictions ease, nonprofits that offer canine-assisted therapy are looking to return to schools, hospitals, and nursing homes. Board members are applying new best practices to ensure the safety of dogs, volunteers, and people visiting with the dogs. “We did not hurry into this. Our goal is to make sure the experience is safe for everyone. Measures to protect the community include special sprays after a visit, a disposable paper pad on a person’s lap, and hand sanitizer for the volunteer who is involved,” said Sara DeCrevel, board president of Napa-based Paws for Healing. Paws for Healing trains dogs and volunteers and provides canine-assisted therapy in Napa, Solano, and Sonoma counties. The organization typically has over 200 active teams visiting rehabilitation centers, mental health facilities, veteran’s facilities, senior care residences, and hospice and career support groups. Its Paws for Reading teams, which encourage children to read to dogs, visit public libraries and schools. In mid-July, Paws for Healing started allowing a volunteer to bring one to two dogs a week to an assisted living facility in Napa. “We’re tip-toeing into this situation by having the dogs in a common area for people with dementia. Residents come out one at a time to pet and spend time with the dogs,” said DeCrevel. A volunteer offered a preview of the visits a week prior by doing a walk-through of the facility with the dogs. Residents could see the dogs from their doorways as the volunteers introduced themselves and the animals. DeCrevel said precautions include bathing the dogs before visits with chlorhexidine shampoo. Chlorhexidine, an antiseptic, kills germs on skin but does not negatively affect skin and hair. Volunteers also spray and wipe the dogs with a chlorhexidine solution Please see Canine, Page 10

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after contact with every resident. “We wipe the paws and the top of the fur. Usually the dogs don’t mind. It’s extra petting to them,” said DeCrevel. Volunteers keep visits brief, at most a few minutes for each person. They check with facilities staff to make sure protocols are up to date and being followed. Paws for Healing is now talking with Queen of the Valley Medical Center and St. Helena Hospital about reintroducing canine-assisted therapy teams in fall 2021. DeCrevel said the nonprofit is not actively training volunteers. Paws for Healing encourages its current volunteers to continue keeping their dogs ready for visits. “The last time we took a group of dogs out to support the community was to visit firefighters in Santa Rosa in the fall fires in 2020. When I took the dogs’ uniforms out then, they knew what they were. They were dancing all around the room,” said DeCrevel. DeCrevel added Paws for Healing is exploring new ideas for virtual visits to K-12 schools for fall 2021. Stellina Psychiatric Service Dogs, a Napa-based nonprofit, is using summer 2021 to prepare to serve local residents with mental health needs. Stellina’s mission is to provide psychiatric service dogs to individuals who need such dogs to assist them in mitigating symptoms of anxiety, depression, or post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD). Psychiatric service dogs, a subset of service dogs, are individually trained to perform specific tasks for their person. “The dogs may use physical behavior to calm their handler, such as nose bumping, (lying) on top of the handler, placing their head in the handler’s lap, gently leaning against the body, or licking their hand. In addition, a dog may work to create space between 10 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Courtesy of Paws for Healing‌

A child visits with a Paws for Healing therapy dog before the pandemic.

Courtesy of Paws for Healing‌

A Paws for Healing therapy dog visits with a child before the pandemic.

Courtesy of Paws for Healing‌

A Paws for Healing therapy dog stands ready to serve.

A student reads to a Paws for Healing therapy dog, in school prior to the pandemic.

the handler and a person that is causing the handler stress. A typical method is standing in between the handler and their conversation partner,” said Suzanne Lavallee, president and founder of Stellina. Lavallee is also the founder of

dog-ventures, a St. Helena dog adventure camp. Lavallee said the point of a psychiatric service dog is to allow their handler to function in day to day life, just as guide dogs aid individuals with visual impairments.

“The dogs also provide companionship and unconditional love,” said Lavallee. Lavallee said Stellina is now fundraising and contacting trainers to bring dogs to Napa Valley in the next two years. The nonprofit gained approval to become a 501c3 nonprofit in September 2020. The organization wants to focus on working with four breeds, German Shepherds, Belgian Malinois, Dutch Shepherds, and Border Collies. These breeds have a long history of serving as solid and reliable working dogs, particularly as guide dogs and service dogs. Lavallee said she grew to understand the need for psychiatric service dogs by helping three people in Napa Valley secure such dogs. “Soon after the individuals got their dogs, I asked each of them what they got from the dogs and why they needed them. It’s those stories, which contain reasons ranging from anxiety and depression to the fires and PTSD, that motivated me to start Stellina,” said Lavallee. Lavallee said she then invited professional dog trainers, counselors, and psychologists to join Stellina’s board. “We wrote the business plan and got all the necessary steps done for the Franchise Tax Board and the Internal Revenue Service, through the pandemic. The shelter-in-place restrictions, two wildfires, and for some board members, evacuations, didn’t stop our collaboration. No matter where we were and what was on our plate, we collaborated by phone, email, and Zoom to get this organization started,” said Lavallee. Lavallee said in several years, Stellina may be interested in establishing a community outreach program to bring dogs to schools. “It may look a little different than a typical canine-assisted therapy program, but that’s fine. We want to serve members of the community looking to recover,” said Lavallee. SUMMER/FALL 2021

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Rachel Britten, owner of the Mendocino Grain Project, checks the harvested heirloom grain grown at Fisher Vineyards in Calistoga. Tim Carl LLC

REAPING AS HE SOWS Napa Valley’s Heirloom Grain Harvest 2021

12 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

SUMMER/FALL 2021

TIM CARL

he Napa Valley is known for growing and making some of the finest wines in the world. But few realize that there was a time in the mid- to late-1800s when wheat and other grains were widely planted throughout the Napa Valley, too. Today there are only a few farmers in the valley who still grow grains, and one of them is Nile Zacherle, winemaker, master beer brewer and owner of St. Helena’s Mad Fritz Brewery. “We love the idea of growing our own grains that go into our locally made beers,” Zacherle said. “We call them ‘origin beers’ because the ingredients are sourced locally.” One of the challenges Zacherle faces is finding land (most of which is already planted with wine grapes) where he can plant his grain crop. Another issue is how to harvest the grain once it has been grown. “It’s not like you can just use a grape-harvesting crew to harvest grain such as wheat,” he said. “You need specialized machinery and folks who have experience about the how, what and when to harvest.” In order to harvest the grains, Zacherle has worked with the Mendocino Grain

location for their crops, and because a combine harvester is expensive machinery to purchase and maintain, MGP’s services are in high demand. “It’s exciting that there are more and more people out there who are hoping to grow their own foods, many on very small pieces of land,” Britten said.

Tim Carl LLC‌photos

Project (MGP), who own and operate their own Northern California farm, where they grow a host of foods that include grains. The MGP also harvests small plots of grains for farmers such as Zacherle. “Our company has worked with Nile for some time now,” said Rachel Britten, owner of the MGP. “It’s a real pleasure to work with our farmer partners who are growing sustainable, organic, heirloom grains but might not have all the gear, time or experience when it comes to harvesting.” Like Zacherle, many of the farmers for whom Britten harvests don’t have a consistent

GROWING GRAIN IN THE NAPA VALLEY HAS NEVER BEEN EASY Back in the 1850s, when Thomas Rutherford and his new wife, Elizabeth Yount, farmed wheat at their Rutherford Ranch (more than 1,000 acres of land between what is now Oakville and Rutherford), they, too, found growing and harvesting grain posed certain challenges. At that time, due to the gold rush and an influx of immigrants to the area, flour prices had skyrocketed from 6 cents a pound to nearly 30 cents. By the 1860s 1.3 million bushels (39,000 tons) of wheat were being grown in the region. Hand-harvesting grains was the only option, Please see Grain, Page 14

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GRAIN From Page 13

and labor was in short supply. Transportation by horse-drawn cart to any of the local water-powered grain mills (Yountville Mill, built in 1837, or the Chiles Valley Mill, built in 1844, or the Bale Grist Mill, built in 1846, or others, including the Gosh and Rutherford mills in Napa and the Napa Milling Co., which today houses the Napa River Inn), was time-consuming. And shipping tons of flour to sell in San Francisco and Sacramento was nearly impossible due to poor road conditions. To resolve the challenges, the Rutherfords worked with Samuel Brannan to build a new train station near their ranch. At that time, Brannan, the first millionaire in California, was nearly finished with a trainrail project to connect the Bay Area to his new spa and resort in Calistoga. Both Brannan and the Rutherfords realized that the transportation of goods, services and people was of critical importance to the continued success of their business interests. Due to the gold rush and the expansion of California as a state, the ever-increasing demand for wheat and other grains must have seemed like it would never end. But it did. By the 1880s there was a glut of wheat on the market, followed by a drought, an influx of the grapevine disease, phylloxera, and then a financial collapse in the banking industry, all of which helped fuel the conversion of Napa Valley land to grapevines and tree crops such as prunes and walnuts. WHEAT TO BEER Today nearly all of the farmable land in the Napa Valley is covered in grapevines, which is often the most lucrative crop available for farmers to grow. Like the wheat boom and bust of the past, the ever-increasing demand for grapes is likely to slow sometime 14 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Tim Carl LLC‌photos

Nile Zacherle, winemaker and owner of Mad Fritz Brewery, shows two of the different heirloom wheats he grows locally and then uses for brewing his “origin beers.”

in the future. Until then, however, finding valley-floor land that might be planted with grain is a rare, transient proposition. “I’ve been really fortunate that there are good folks out there who allow me to plant after they’ve ripped out their vines and plan to leave their fields fallow for a year or two,” Zacherle said. “Grains such as heirloom wheats and malting barley grow fantastically well here, but this is a grape-based economy.” Consequently, Zacherle is on a constant search for a few open acres here or there. This year, the Fisher family — Zacherle is married to winemaker Whitney Fisher — has provided prime land in Calistoga for his cause, as did St. Helena’s Long Meadow Ranch. Zacherle explained that grapes typically bring in more revenue per acre than grain, but because

grain can grow with minimal labor and because he dry-farms without irrigation or costly infrastructure, the actual final profit potential is “close.” A more standard grain-grower might make even more. “The way we farm, we probably got 1.5 to 2 tons per acre,” he said. “That’s about 30 to 40 bushels per acre, but typical barley farmers tend to get 80 to 110.” Once the grain was ripe, Zacherle reached out to Britten. She and her team packed up an “experimental-sized” combine harvester that is typically used at small university experimental farms. When it arrived on an overcast morning in midsummer many locals and tourists took second glances as the unfamiliar contraption rolled down St. Helena’s Main Street. Once on location, it was ready for service.

Although only a few acres needed harvesting, the process was time-consuming and replete with moments when the harvester needed tweaking. For example, because each of the grains harvested has different sized seeds and coat compositions, the combine must be cleaned and calibrated between each one. The entire process took a few days to complete. When asked what the biggest surprise was that Britten faced as the new business owner, she laughed before answering. “I predicted that last year our first harvest would take about one month to complete,” she said. “It actually took three. Honestly, though, I’ve also been pleasantly surprised by how many people are really educated and interested in buying organic staple crops that are locally grown.” During the harvest days Zacherle dropped in often to check before speeding off to his day job as winemaker at David Arthur Vineyards, or to his brewery to check a new batch of beer or to spend time with his wife, and their two children. All the while Britten and her hired gun, Dylan Jones, who was learning the nuances of driving the combine, methodically worked the field, harvesting, adjusting and eventually eager to show off a handful of the pristine grain once it had been collected. As I watched the process I tried to picture what those earlier Napa Valley grain-growers had faced. Without a combine they would have had to harvest and process all of those many tons of flour by hand. And once complete, the grain needed to be transported. From there it was placed into sacks and shipped throughout the region, country and the world, where it was made into bread, pasta and even beer. “What I love about this entire process is that this amazing valley can grow so many excellent different crops besides wine grapes,” Zacherle said. “There is a long history here, and I’m just grateful that I can share — with the help of a lot of people — another side of what this place has to offer.” SUMMER/FALL 2021

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Members of the Filipino community, including American Canyon City Council Member David Oro (back, second from left), Luchi Marte Carey (far left), Dame Jose (center), Faith Ballesteros (second from right) and Clarence Mamaril (far right), gather before an anti-Asian hate rally in American Canyon in May 2021.

JESSICA ZIMMER

apa’s Filipino community is coming together during the COVID-19 pandemic to encourage listening, sharing, and techniques for empowerment. The goal is to combat numerous stressors, including anti-Asian hate, the toll on healthcare professionals, the inability to travel to the Philippines, and the isolation of virtual learning. “The past year has been remarkably trying, not just for the Filipino American community, but communities everywhere. The lockdown, COVID, economic concerns, the presidential election, and the social justice movement created a cauldron of reactions that manifested itself in 2020,” said American City Council Member David Oro. 16 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

RESTORING

MENTAL HEALTH Napa County’s Filipino community addresses the pandemic

Oro said telling the history of the Filipino community is a way to acknowledge the expectations and contributions that Napa County residents have faced, “even as the cauldron is still

bubbling.” “Approximately one third of the population of American Canyon is of Asian descent, with many residents being Filipino and Filipino American. You can’t

find a street in American Canyon without a Filipino nurse living there. These members of our community were and are the frontline workers. They have continued to care for the sick admirably while they, their families, and the community are caring for them,” said Oro. March 2021 data from National Nurses United, the largest union of registered nurses (RNs) in the U.S., show that approximately 26 percent of RNS who have died from COVID-19 and related complications are Filipino. Filipinos make up 4 percent of the RNs in the U.S. Lourdes Moldre, clinical director of oncology services for UC Davis Health and a member of the Philippine Nurses Association of America, said although Filipino healthcare workers have sustained losses, they have joined SUMMER/FALL 2021

forces with social workers to create flyers and social media materials. The purpose of the effort is to encourage members of the Filipino community to get vaccinated. “The best way to prevent more stress and loss within the community is vaccination. There are a lot of myths floating around about COVID in the Philippines and the U.S., such as that you only need to get one shot of a mRNA vaccine, outside of a onetime J&J vaccination. Targeted materials in Tagalog and English, especially for elderly people and individuals suffering from hypertension and diabetes, help a great deal,” said Moldre. Moldre said members of the Filipino community who are not healthcare workers are also forging ties by digitally and physically reaching out to one another. “We’re engaging in monthly awareness events like group meetings, pulling out all the positivity

is helping younger members of the community find their voice. Clarence Mamaril, a Filipino community liaison for the Napa Valley Education Foundation, said in 2020, approximately 15 Filipino-American students were active in Filipino Life and Generations Group (FLAGG). “FLAGG is composed of students in American Canyon Middle School and American Canyon High School (ACHS). Over Zoom, we discussed topics ranging from Filipino culture to how we were dealing with anxiety Angold Photography‌ and depression,” said Mamaril. Mamaril said students learned Oro family standing. From left to right, first row: Patricia Oro, David Oro’s mother Anna Ritchey, David Oro’s father Thomas Ritchey, and American from one another, ACHS social Canyon City Council Member David Oro. Second row: Oscar Oro, Mya Oro, and worker and FLAGG co-coorLeah Oro. dinator Roxana Plancarte, and adult volunteers from the Filithat’s still going on. Being open, Moldre. pino community who are also authentic, and unafraid to talk to members of FLAGG, including peers is important. Those connec- GETTING STUDENTS Council Member Oro. The group tions help us decompress. They ON BOARD often discussed how to access create a system that is sustainEncouraging Filipino students able for people of all ages,” said who go to school together to talk Please see Mental, Page 18

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mental health resources and coping strategies. Another frequent activity was coming up with affirmations and gratitudes, positive statements to acknowledge progress and give thanks. “Next year, we’ll start the program anew. All of the information we’re learning about students’ concerns, what helps them, what they like to talk about, and their personal experiences, helps us understand how to support Filipino students in the group and throughout Napa Valley,” said Mamaril. Mamaril, Moldre, Oro, Luchi Marte Carey, and other members of the Filipino community also worked to organize an antiAsian hate rally in mid May 2021. The event brought together students, parents, and community leaders to take a stand against antiAsian crimes and discrimination. At Napa Valley College, administrators and faculty are collaborating to help young adults take the next step to support their peers. Sherry Tennyson, career consultant at Napa Valley College, and Professor Nicollette Morales, adjunct faculty of humanities, have developed a Filipino learning community. Connecting members of the community through classes and discussion groups will ensure these college students have support and feedback from their peers. “In 2021, the Filipinx learning community will be about 160 students. Just as last year, we will make every effort to help students identify direct aid, find mental health counselors, and start support groups and discussions within the larger group,” said Tennyson. Morales said one of the objectives of the learning community is to create community within the college setting for Filipinx students. “We also talk about diversity within Filipinx culture, such as the different languages that Filipinx people speak beyond Tagalog. Ilonggo, Ilocano and Visayan are a few of the many languages spoken in the Philippines. We ask our students what’s going with their families as well. We know they have multiple roles in our community. The things we cover together get shared with siblings, parents, and coworkers,” said Morales. Morales said one of the new concepts she is utilizing for this holistic approach is “barangays,” small groups. The word comes from “balangay,” a Malay word that means “sailboat.” It refers to a house on land and a boat on water where families and friends live 18 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Courtesy of Lourdes Moldre‌

Lourdes Moldre, clinical director of oncology services for UC Davis Health and a member of the Philippine Nurses Association of America, holds up an anti-Asian hate sign.

together. “We plan to divide the class into these different barangays for class discussions. We’ll build rapport within them and the class as a whole. That will help students understand that history starts with them and their story. They’ll get to write about where they are going and where the Filipinx community is headed,” said Morales. Tennyson said strengthening the support network helps repair damage caused by the pandemic. “In March 2020, so many of our students were left on their own. Their classes went virtual. They didn’t see their peers during shelter-in-place. A number of students and their parents lost jobs. Students had to pause internships and career plans. What we are doing now helps the younger generation find the confidence to form new paths. It also teaches them to be there for themselves, their friends, and their families,” said Tennyson. REACHING FILIPINOS UPVALLEY The majority of Napa Valley’s Filipino population is concentrated in the southern part of the county. Yet there are pockets of Filipino residents in St. Helena, Angwin, and Calistoga, said Karen Verzosa, a Calistoga resident and member of the Filipino community. “The Filipino community in Calistoga is smaller. Usually we keep to ourselves. Yet this is a good time to connect. Then people know there’s someone who’s going through the same things and they can get support,” said Verzosa. Verzosa said there is also a group of Filipino vineyard workers at a certain Upvalley winery. Outreach is needed to help them feel connected to other Filipinos in the southern end of the Valley. Agnes Ramos, owner of Napa Valley Tea Company and a member of the Filipino

community, has made contact with a number of the farmer and vineyard worker groups. Ramos said in years prior to the pandemic, she and other members of the Filipino community brought turkeys to the groups for Christmas and Thanksgiving. In return, the groups shared Asian vegetables such as Chinese Long Beans that they grew on small plots. Ramos, who is a physical therapist, gave back by checking people’s blood pressure and sharing information about healthy diets for people with diabetes. “They are living in close quarters and often don’t seek medical care. This is why we come to offer help. We know where they are and how to reach out to them,” said Ramos. Ramos also reaches out to members of the Calistoga Filipino community from her tea stall. Ramos operates the stall every Saturday at the Calistoga Farmers Market. “We check in with one another, saying hello and making sure we are OK. We talk about all the small things that have changed since the pandemic started. The Calistoga Farmers Market has kept going, giving us that human connection through the pandemic,” said Ramos. Ramos said these uplifting moments helped carry her through difficult times, such as incidents of anti-Asian racism in Calistoga. “I had people come up to tell me, “It’s because of you that we have the virus.” I let them know that I am Filipino. Then they said, “Well, you’re all the same.” I walked away and told the manager. It’s frustrating when this happens. But we’re resilient. We move on from people who would treat us this way,” said Ramos. Ramos added that there are individuals in and beyond the Filipino community who demonstrate thoughtfulness and kindness. “COVID has motivated a lot of people to open up their minds. They’ve educated themselves about the circumstances of the pandemic. I have seen people become more gracious to people in the service industry and in the medical field,” said Ramos. Ramos said these are the changes that will help Napa Valley’s Filipino community become stronger during the period of recovery. “The idea is for us (the Filipino community) and people outside of it to know we are dealing with so much hardship. We can recognize what we lost and that we need to stabilize now. For good and for bad, these lessons are not new to us. For generations, our families have survived. Our parents taught us to prioritize what you really need versus what you want,” said Ramos. SUMMER/FALL 2021

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Linsey Gallagher, President and CEO, Visit Napa Valley Favorite day trip (inside Napa Valley): Taking a bike ride on the Napa Valley Vine Trail with my husband and kids. (Both of my children learned to ride 2 wheel bikes (never had training wheels) very young, thanks to this wonderful community asset which makes biking safe and easy for all.) If we bribe them with a stop at Bouchon Bakery for a macaroon cookie and a bacon cheddar scone, they will ride all the way from our house in downtown Napa up to Yountville and back. Favorite day trip (outside Napa Valley): Our family loves to hike to the beach via Abbot’s Lagoon Trail at Point Reyes National Seashore. Most recent earworm? Thanks to my 9-year old daughter who plays DJ in the car it’s Maroon 5’s “Memories.” If I’m in control of the tuned in the car, the song that has been sticking in my head lately is “Country Again” by Thomas Rhett. What food can you not live without? Pasta Strangest hobby? Hmmm. I grew up in Norwich, Vermont, on the Connecticut River overlooking the Dartmouth College boat house (the launch point for the crew rowing teams). The summer between high school and college, I joined the community crew club and learned to row. After that, I went on to row on club crew team at the University of Vermont. What did you want to be when you grew up? A hairstylist or ballerina. Sadly, I never became any good at styling hair or dancing. Best beach read? People magazine. I’ve been a loyal subscriber since high school. What’s the farthest you’ve ever been from home? In my prior role with California Wine Institute where I served as VP of International Marketing, I led the California Wine Export Program that promoted California Wines in 30+ countries around the world. I spent 10 years traveling abroad extensively, flying a California flag and promoting the Golden State as a great place to grow grapes and make wine, and telling the world what makes 20 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

this an iconic and aspirational destination for tourists and wine drinkers around the world. I was fortunate to travel often to China, Japan, Hong Kong, South Korea, Canada, Mexico, Cuba, the U.K., Ireland, Germany, Sweden and Russia while in that role. Favorite pet? I am not a pet person (even though growing up in Vermont we had one of every pet under the sun — cow, horse, sheep, goat, cat, dog, chickens, rabbits, ducks, frogs, fish, etc.) I finally caved in this past March after the persistent urging of my children, and our family adopted a sweet and energetic 1 ½ year old German Shepherd named Luna. The kids and my husband are thrilled. Me, not so much… Last time you cried? This past weekend, leaving my childhood home in Vermont. I had gone home to pick up my kids, who were fortunate to spend a month there with my parents, roaming free in the Green Mountain State and enjoying the beautiful (and rainy!) summer. Last time you laughed until you cried? On my birthday this past June. We were having dinner at Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch with my sister and my parents (I was born on their 4th wedding anniversary, so it’s a dual celebration in our family that day) who were all out here visiting from the East Coast. My mom was taking a photo of my dad with my sister and me, and she was profusely critical of his “photo face” in the pose. My sister and I ended up in hysterics as my mom continued to coach him on his pose. She’s the master of unsolicited feedback, and we affectionately refer to her as “the mom-ager.” Why visit Napa Valley? I love the intersection of wine and tourism. I grew up in Vermont, a state with more cows than people and known for its maple syrup and cheddar cheese. I enjoy “elevated” agriculture, especially when agro-tourism can contribute to a community and enhance the quality of life of its residents as well as visitors. The Napa Valley is a very special place on this earth, and I feel very fortunate to be a steward of this brand on the world stage. The pandemic has been devastating with its impact on the hospitality and tourism sector globally. But the Napa Valley is resilient and will recover and return to prosperity very soon. I am honored to help lead leading this recovery journey for our hospitality businesses here in Napa Valley. SUMMER/FALL 2021

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A craftsman OUT OF TIME TIM CARL

fourth-generation Napa Valley craftsman, Philip Beltrami doesn’t just make wooden furniture, he uncovers history. Part expert woodworker and part historian, over the years he has shifted away from construction to focus on crafting tables, 22 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

chests and other furniture pieces that are beautiful to look at while they also reveal layers of stories contained within the reclaimed wood itself. Like a true magician, Beltrami reanimates old wine barrels, ancient wooden wine tanks and discarded planks from barns and

demolished structures from some of the region’s first wineries. Look closely at any of his pieces and you will see intricate wood-grain patterns from trees cut down long ago, maybe a retained handdrilled dowel or two, perhaps the red stain from an ancient wine or barrel end cuts that look

saw-tooth jagged, even a few bungholes from where an enormous corked plugged an ancient wine barrel from years past. Beltrami’s furniture pieces are works of art. They are built by a man with deep roots to the region, often using tools left to him by old timers after they SUMMER/FALL 2021

passed away. Each piece is a reflection of nature’s grandeur, his love of craft and a deep reverence for history and effort, as if giving a respectful nod to those longpast trees and also to the men and woman who have made the valley what it is today. GIVING VOICE TO THE PAST “Growing up, I learned how to listen,” he said. “When I listened closely I learned how to work with my hands and how to build.” We sat in his workshop — an old converted garage at his home in St. Helena. Every shelf and surface was replete with tools that looked as if they might have time-traveled from a blacksmith’s shop from centuries earlier. It’s a slow, peaceful place, one where you might notice something surprising within something long forgotten. “I was taught to respect not only the material but also all the skill and many hours of work that were needed to create something of use,” he said. “When I build anything I feel like I am giving voice to that past. To me, the remembering and sharing of memories is a big part of each piece I make.” Beltrami grew up in St. Helena and graduated from high school in 1981. He was the football quarterback who took his small-town team to a 1980 winning season, and in the same year he earned the most valuable player award for his role on the baseball team. After graduation he immediately started working construction, following in the footsteps of many of his family members. ANGELO BORLA Sometime in the late 1800s, Beltrami’s great-great-granduncle, Angelo Borla, immigrated to the Napa Valley from the tiny village of Medeglia within the Ticino canton of Switzerland, which SUMMER/FALL 2021

boarders Italy. Even in 2010 only 355 residents lived in Medeglia. And although since 1803 Ticino has been one of the 26 cantons forming the Swiss Confederation, for centuries this remote region within the foothills of the Alps has had the influence of a confluence of cultures — Swiss, German, Italian and Celtic. However, then, like today, the official language of Ticino was Italian. The Ticino region is known for its Lake Como district,

high-quality Merlot wines, sublime polenta-based dishes and craft beer. It is also known for the expert masons who built ornate cathedrals, intricate estates, grand wineries and flawless stone roads. One of the most famous stone structures in the region — the Castello Visconti — is widely thought to have been designed by Leonardo da Vinci. The masons of Ticino have been in demand for centuries. Back in the mid- to late 1800s, when an influx of new

money flooded into California because of the gold rush, a booming fur trade and the construction of railroads —the Napa Valley drew a collection of entrepreneurs, many of whom desired to build their own grand wine estates. Most of these new construction projects were modeled after those found in Europe, and many sought craftspeople from the famed Ticino region to help build them. One of them was Borla. “Angelo [Borla] was a mason and was asked here to help build some of the earliest wineries,” Beltrami said. “He worked on — and was even the foreman on — some of the biggest projects at the time — Larkmead, BV, Markham and Spotswood.” Look around the Napa Valley today and you’ll still find some of the craftsmanship of those times. Tightly knit stones, each expertly carved with intricate details, were created to last not a few years or even a single lifetime but with centuries and multiple generations in mind. FINDING A PATH FORWARD THROUGH THE PAST Beltrami learned his craft from a parade of mentors who were both family and friends. On one of his first jobs, vintner Robert Pepi mentioned in passing that he needed a few tables built for his new tasting room. The wood he wanted used to make them was discarded redwood from venerable tanks at the Louis Martini winery. The old-growth wood was pristine and had held various vintages of aging wines for decades. Please see Beltrami, Page 24 INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 23

BELTRAMI From Page 23

“When I made that first table it just felt right,” he said. From that day forward, Beltrami kept an eye out for any wood that might be repurposed into something of use, often gifting the finished items to his construction clients. “What other people might see as a flaw I often see as history,” he said. “Using all those techniques I have been taught by so many and often using the tools that have been left in my care, I can begin to see the end piece emerge — one that tells the story of all the pieces contained within it.” I’ve known Beltrami and his extensive family since I was a child. He was always quiet, often waiting to ask the right question at the right time. He is one of the few people I know who look square into your eyes with every word they speak and who speaks with such reverence and respect for the past, deferring nearly all praise to his teachers, family and friends. The truth is that he straddles the past and the present, and his work reflects this. Purchasing a piece of handcrafted furniture from him has much more in common with those revered masonry structures in the Napa Valley that his ancestors built than a stripped-down modern version. “I got hurt a few years back, so I needed to slow down with my construction business,” he said. “But what that gave me was the opportunity to focus on this.” He gestured at items he was working on — a stunning curved chest, a table made from part of a single wine barrel and dozens of other pieces in various stages of completion. Sit long enough and he can tell you the provenance of each tool, every piece of wood and much of the history behind them. Stay even a fraction longer and you will undoubtedly hear about his gratitude for nearly everyone he has met along his path. Listening to his stories of the Napa Valley in such a setting was mesmerizing. The sound of his voice mingled with the sweet aroma of freshly sawed oak from a wine barrel and a dustiness from a workshop that seems familiar with hard work. In the moments between stories all was quiet except for the occasional caw of a raven or a distantly passing car. “Everywhere I turn I can imagine all of those who came before,” he said. “And I feel like they’d want me to remember, too, to show others what they’ve shared with me.”

24 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

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wonder to behold Amphibians are all around us but are rarely seen – unless you look TIM CARL As a kid I was always drawn to the critters of this world. I was — and remain — fascinated by the complexity and diversity of life around us, but it is amphibians that have always captured my heart. Birds are, of course, easy to admire with their beautiful calls and often vibrant-colored feathers. Mammals such as foxes, raccoons, squirrels, deer, coyotes and bears can easily grab headlines, as can reptiles, especially snakes. Insects such as black widow spiders and monarch butterflies have understandably dominated the collective psyche of many. Plants, fungi and algae are also full of mystery and wonder, providing nutrients that are the basis of life itself. A host of other living organisms — bacteria and single-cell protists — are all worthy of study and appreciation. However amphibians — frogs, toads, salamanders, newts and caecilians — have always held a particular appeal for me. COLORFUL, TOXIC AND SLIMY My mother, on the other hand, found my fascination with these damp-skinned, sometimes slimy creatures much less enthralling. It was not uncommon for a jailbreak to occur from one of my many terrariums or aquariums, one of which led to our frantic search for my highly prized rough skinned newt. This 6-inch-long 26 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

creature can exude the same tetrodotoxin (TTX, a kind of neurotoxin) found in some of the world’s deadliest animals, including the blue-ringed octopus, puffer fish and porcupinefish. Once my newt was found and replaced into its safety-glass-enclosed confines, I dutifully washed my hands while my mother ordered me to release all of my animals back into the wild. My hourslong impassioned defense of the importance of continued “scientific research” somehow succeeded and I kept my laboratory operational. Rough-skinned newts are found in still ponds, and their blue-beige skin is in dramatic contrast to their vibrant orange underbellies. These newts are often misidentified as California “orange-bellied” newts that look strikingly similar and are also poisonous. Like many poisonous creatures, the vivid skin color of rough-skinned newts is a warning to would-be predators. However, if attacked and eaten despite the fair warning, the newt releases TTX through its skin. Although the concentration might not be enough to kill the attacking animal outright, it is often enough to allow the newt’s escape. It is not uncommon to witness an inex-

perie n c e d garter snake or raptor recoil after a first nibble. Interestingly, every time these newts release TTX they, too, are flooded with the paralytic-chemical, but they are immune to the effects. Scientists are still trying to understand the mechanism of this immunity. AMPHIBIANS’ DOUBLE LIFE Amphibians are coldblooded (endothermic) vertebrates (have a backbone) and thrive in both aquatic and terrestrial habitats. The term “amphibian” is derived from the Greek word “amphibious,” which refers to living a double life. This is appropriate because most amphibians spend part of their life cycle within water (many larval forms include gills) and part of their lives on land. Some have evolved to live only on land or in water. Frogs and toads do not have tails as adults, whereas salaman-

ders and newts retain their tails into adulthood. Caecilians are limbless, resemble large worms and live in tropical locations. Most amphibians have porous skin that absorbs and releases gasses, essentially functioning as external lungs. Some terrestrial salamanders and frogs have lost their internal lungs altogether and rely solely on “cutaneous (skin) respiration.” INDICATOR SPECIES Because of their porous, highly absorbent skin, amphibians are highly sensitive to pollution, infections and changes to the environment. Known as “indicator species,” this collection of tiny creatures is followed closely by scientists to help monitor and track changes in an ecosystem’s health. By the late 1980s communities around the world were SUMMER/FALL 2021

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A green chorus or pacific treefrog, Pseudacris regilla Henk Wallays, Dreamstime.com‌

Rough-skinned Newt (Taricha granulosa) crawling on leaves in San Mateo County. Yuval Helfman, Dreamstime.com‌

reporting large die-offs of amphibians, with entire populations decimated in some locations. By the mid-1990s an infectious fungal disease — chytridiomycosis — was determined to be the culprit. Since then, the insidious, highly deadly and transmissible disease has been one of the leading causes of a global decline in amphibian populations. Though not completely understood, the fungus that causes chytridiomycosis — Batrachochytrium dendrobatidis — primarily affects the animal’s skin, interfering with normal breathing, hydration, temperature regulation and the normal transfer of nutrients. A 2019 review in the scientific journal “Science” found that chytridiomycosis was a leading factor in the decline of more than 500 species of amphibians worldwide — 90 of which have gone extinct. Unlike SUMMER/FALL 2021

when I was growing up in the 1970s and unaware of the risks of spreading pathogens to these sensitive creatures, we now know that because B. dendrobatidis is found in California, avoiding the handling of amphibians is highly encouraged. However, that doesn’t mean a long-distance relationship with amphibians isn’t possible. Listening to the Pacific tree frog (Pseudacris regilla, also known as the Pacific chorus frog) is one of the most joyous sounds of early spring. Find the right location after a long, deep rain and listen as these small green animals begin to call, each male singing his song in the hope of attracting a female, their music so riveting and rhythmic that it can take on an otherworldly background buzz. ENSATINA IS A “RING SPECIES” Overturn a rock in the garden, move old fallen logs or even shift a potted outdoor plant and chances are you’ll find a tiny, sticklike California slender salamander lurking somewhere in the damp soil. Or perhaps you’ll find one of my Please see Amphibians, Page 28

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favorite salamanders, Ensatina. Delicate to the point of taking on a tissue-paper fragility, most Ensatina have developed intricate methods to avoid or deter predators. For example, a subspecies found locally — E. oregonensis — has the pale color of decaying putrefied flesh, and another subspecies called EE. eschscholtzii — found south of the Napa Valley — has a coloration similar to the poisonous rough-skinned newt. Ensatina as a group also make up a fascinating example of active speciation. In the 1940s UC Berkeley herpetologist Robert C. Stebbins noticed a fascinating attribute of distinct populations of Ensatina throughout California. A defining characteristic of a species is that they can interbreed even between geographically distant populations, and that was true of the widely distributed Ensatina. Even though widely different in coloration, different populations interbreed. However, what Stebbins noticed was there were two populations that lived near each other but rarely if ever interbred. This all might sound a little like inside baseball, but let me explain why this was an important discovery in the study of evolution. Because evolution occurs at timeframes that

A male painted Ensatina in Northern California.

are beyond the grasp of human experience — new species arise over hundreds of thousands of years, if not millions — so finding an active example of speciation is rare. But that’s exactly what Stebbins believed he was witnessing through this tiny creature. Referred to as a “ring species” because their population formed what looked like an elongated ring around California’s interior — some of the subpopulations along the coast and some in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains — Ensatina became a model for studying the very processes of evolution itself. These studies continue. AWE-INSPIRING WONDER When I was a child I could spend hours sitting within nature and pondering the wonder that might be witnessed under an

Henkwallays, Dreamstime.com‌

overturned rock or log. Watching closely, I learned of complex and intricate communities of interdependent beings. Yes, there were predator and prey dynamics, but there were also synergies and interdependencies between plants, animals and soil. Many of the organisms looked strange, and a few appeared frightening at first glance. What I learned then was that if I studied anything by watching nature in action or heading to the library or asking experts or talking to a select few adults who took my inquiries seriously, I normally found three things: 1) We don’t know very much about most of what’s around us, 2) what we do know is incomplete, and 3) the observation of even the most banal of first-appearing creatures invariably led me into a world of awe-inspiring wonder and a desire to learn more.

A collection of renderings by Tim Carl of various amphibians found in the region, many found within the Napa Valley itself. 28 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Tim Carl‌

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pectacular” might be the best word to sum up the property at 861 Conn Valley Road in St. Helena, which is on the market for $16,950,000, listing agent Matt Bjorner said. This property and the one next door which is being developed, were once owned by long-time local physician, Dr. Darter, Bjorner said. “What strikes you first and foremost, is the architecture,” Bjorner said. “Its modern

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R AC H E L R A S K I N - Z R I H E N use of glass, steel and concrete, but with added touches of rich wood to also give it that rustic, country feel. The enclosed glass entryway that bridges the two main structures of the residence (is also striking). And the unique views through the Conn Valley corridor to Pritchard Hill and Lake Hennessey … It’s very rare to get such big views, minutes to the valley floor with no road noise from passing cars below.” Builder Steve Carreiro, describes the unique property as “elegant and industrial,”

with steel trusses, with wood ceilings. “It’s really cool,” he said. “Everyone’s impressed with it. The floors, also. They’re dark European oak, 12-inch wide, long plank, too, and is very interesting looking. I get a lot of comments on that, too.” The newly constructed six-bedroom, eight-bath, 902 square foot estate is perched on more than 10 private acres, “with sweeping views from the vineyards below to Pritchard Hill and Lake Hennessey,” according to the listing. It features a 5,902

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861 Conn Valley Road, St. Helena 861connvalley.com MATT BJORNER (310) 528-1768 Mbjorner@gmail.com

square-foot, four-bedroom main residence. “Exposed structural steel, expansive glass, stained woods, smooth coat stucco, and natural limestone are blended throughout,” the listing says. “The primary great room accommodates the chef’s kitchen and prep pantry, eating nook, formal dining, wine cellar and living area.” Only “a scenic three miles from town,” the property also features a two-bedroom guest house, “meticulously designed to complement the property’s natural topography,” it says. A glass entry breezeway connects the main living structure to the master wing “and reveals the sweeping views and expansive outdoor living space beyond.” “The wood paneled vaulted ceiling, cupolas, oversized windows and glass sliders allow natural light to flood throughout the space,” it says. “The adjacent media room, with its fully opening exterior wall of glass, offers a walk-up bar and houses the residence’s three guest suites.” The master wing features a private study, spacious bedroom with interior living area, covered outdoor patio, spa-inspired bathroom, expansive walk-in closet and two private studios below. The nearby guest house, roughly 1,000 square feet, offers two more bedroom suites, living room, kitchenette and covered outdoor deck. The unique marriage of metal and glass and the warmth of the vertical farmhouse wood siding creates an interesting modern/ industrial/farmhouse feel to the property, the listing says. And this all opens to a limestone patio that spans the length of the main residence, offering “the amenities and setting for private relaxing and entertaining. “Accessible from all main living areas and the master suite, the patio features a covered cabana with outdoor kitchen, infinity edge pool and spa, full bathroom with changing area, sunken fire pit with built-in banquet, wood burning outdoor fireplace, and covered sitting areas outside the great room and master suite.” The bocce court sits below the pool with lighting for night time play. The estate is designed to invite indoor/ outdoor living. “Throughout the main residence, expansive walls of glass open up to seamlessly connect the interior and exterior living spaces,” it says. “Outside the great room, Please see Island, Page 32

SUMMER/FALL 2021

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ISLAND From Page 31

the 270-plus square foot covered patio features a custom stained wood paneled ceiling, exposed structural steel beams, recessed lighting and speakers. The exterior limestone patios subtly transition at the same level into the wide plank oak hardwood floors inside the residence.” All in all, it’s an impressive place to be, Carreiro said. “The vision was to make it to 32 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

appeal to someone who really wants a unique place to live,” he said. “I am most impressed with how the house fits in with the landscape. You feel like you’re on a million acres, so it has a really unique seclusion and connection with nature. I’m impressed with what nature does with it. The clouds are up there. The sunrises are amazing in the morning. The big glass doors that open up to the outside, gives you the feeling like you’re out in the middle of nowhere, though you’re not that far from town. It’s really a fun place to be. Spectacular views everywhere. It’s really cool.” SUMMER/FALL 2021

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34 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Matching Napa Valley’s Cabernet Sauvignons with vegetarian and heart-friendly options is possible, with help from the pros. “You want to go for the rich, roasted items that cut through the tannins. Hearty, flavorful vegetables such as Portobello mushrooms, zucchini, tomatoes, and garlic are excellent choices. If you use a minimal amount of olive oil, a dish can be restrained yet flavorful,” said Christie Dufault, professor of wine at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Greystone. Dufault, who is also a sommelier, said “doctoring up” dishes like ratatouille with spices makes pairings more intense. “Add a hint of rosemary or more black pepper. You can bring out the aromatic spiciness of your

Cabernet,” said Dufault. Wine enthusiasts have many choices. Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons are made from Calistoga to Wild Horse Valley. In the sunny, northern AVAs, wines tend to be more full-bodied and jammy. In the cooler, southern AVAs, wines tend to be more balanced and integrated. Lars Kronmark, professor of culinary arts at CIA at Greystone, said diners can choose from young Cabs between two and four years old up to aged Cabs between 10 to 15 years old. “The older Cabs are more of a narrow family. Cabernet Sauvignon usually doesn’t last beyond 15 years,” said Kronmark. Kronmark said lean red meat choices for pairings include

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venison, elk, and lamb. Wild duck, rich but not salty meat sauces, and pasta dishes with pecorino cheese from Sonoma County also work. “The key is to add some sweetness. Think of vegetables with a sprinkle of pancetta or bacon crumbles, or a drizzle of sweet balsamic glace,” said Kronmark. Kronmark said rich items bind with protein and fat, allowing more of the fruit flavor of the wine to come through. Kronmark advised sharper Cabernets will need more acidic sauces with a hint of sweetness. Older Cabernets tend to go well with vegetables sauteed in miso stock and butter. “It helps to look at the popular dishes that people eat in areas where Cabernet Sauvignon has historically been grown. Go back, look at the cookbooks of special game menus for the last 50 years. Review the ingredient list to understand where a chef finds inspiration,” said Kronmark. CHEFS TRADE NOTES A bit of knowledge about the terroir of Napa Valley will help a home chef. As an example, Chef Tod Kawachi of St. Supéry Estate Vineyards and Winery said St. Supéry’s 2017 Rutherford Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is grown on the Rutherford Bench. This is the area in the center of Napa Valley around the town of Rutherford. “The mineral rich alluvial and sandy clay loam soil results in a fine grain tannin often referred to as Rutherford dust. (This tannin is) smooth and elegant. You can even pair this wine with chicken or fish. You’ll need to add a strong seasoning for fish to stand up to Cabernet Sauvignon,” said Kawachi. Kawachi added searing or encrusting vegetables on the grill creates flavors that match a “big” Cab Sauv. “You’re looking for that heavier profile. I suggest saucing grilled items with salsa verde or chimichurri, which are tart, garlicky green sauces,” said Kawachi. Kawachi said home cooks should stay away from spicy and sweet dishes. “Those crush the beautiful fruit Please see Cabernet, Page 36

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Courtesy of Christie Dufault‌

Christie Dufault, professor of wine at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone.

Lars Kronmark‌

A collection of 1976 Cabernet Sauvignons made by Louis Martini, held by Lars Kronmark, professor of culinary arts at CIA at Greystone.

Courtesy of Lars Kronmark‌

Lars Kronmark, professor of culinary arts at CIA Greystone, enjoys a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon with veal chops, wild mushroom sauce, and parsley mashed potatoes.

INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 35

Sara Sanger‌

Meg Smith‌

St. Supéry Estate Vineyards and Winery’s Dollarhide Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.

CABERNET From Page 35

and bring out the hot alcohol in the wine. Ingredients like chilis and sugar make a Cabernet Sauvignon burn on the tongue and in the throat,” said Kawachi. Chef Aaron LeRoi, who works as an independent private chef throughout the Napa Valley, said it is possible for a home cook to tailor certain favorites to pair with Cabernet Sauvignons. “Mildly spiced jerk chicken with coconut brown rice and quinoa and seasonal vegetables works. Lentil Bolognese, which is even healthier and lighter, brings that earthy legume taste to match the wine,” said LeRoi. LeRoi said younger wines from 2018 and 2019 will be more fruit forward. These wines are better for drinking on their own. “Cabernet Sauvignons from 2016 and 2017 are more tannic and better suited for food. Cabernet Sauvignons from the Silverado Trail, particularly those from Quixote Winery, stand up to heavier foods,” said LeRoi.

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Meg Smith‌

Chef Tod Kawachi of St. Supéry Estate Vineyards and Winery making one of his creations.

LeRoi said he gets a feel for how to match the wine by tasting a bit of it at first. “I often cook for private dinner parties, like birthday parties. The guests will bring a wine from their wine tasting the previous day. I usually ask to taste the wine before I start cooking,” said LeRoi. LeRoi said it is possible to pair Cabernet Sauvignons with modified desserts. “I make a pound cake or chocolate cake with a cup less sugar than normal. That way you taste the cake more than the sweetness. I add fresh, unsweetened whipped cream and compote made with berries and spices. You want the fruit to be a bit tart,” said LeRoi. UNDERSTANDING YOUR CAB Researching a Cabernet Sauvignon through tasting is a good way to get a sense of a wine’s qualities. Jordan Mackay, a James Beard-award winning writer on wine and spirits, said the limits of the category “Cabernet Sauvignon” are extremely flexible. “When it’s not too ripe, those complexities haven’t developed. Cabernet Sauvignon

can impart a variety of flavors. Cabernet Sauvignon can be minty, herbal, herbaceous, or mineral. It often has pleasant spice notes from the wood in the barrel,” said Mackay. Mackay said he particularly enjoys Parallel Wines’ Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon made by Philippe Melka. “This wine has a nice structure, a savory quality, and character that comes out with age. I also enjoy Ashes & Diamonds’ Cabernet Sauvignons. They are expressive of different parts of Napa Valley, like the Oakville or the Oak Knoll District,” said Mackay. Mackay said his go-to vegetable dishes for Cabernet Sauvignon include cauliflower steak cooked in reduced mushroom stock, red wine, shallots and butter. He also likes piperade, a dark Basque stew with peppers, tomatoes, and garlic. When a wine enthusiast is dining out, they should pair a Cabernet Sauvignon with light dishes that have a balance of salt and acid. Morgan Robinson, co-founder of Southside, a Napa fast casual café with three locations, said Southside’s wine list includes the Silver Oak

St. Supéry Napa Valley Estate Wines. From left to right: Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Moscato.

Cabernet Sauvignon. “This goes well with our smoked chicken salad. It includes Point Reyes Original Blue Cheese and is dressed with our preserved lemon vinaigrette. The balance of the blue cheese and the lemon vinaigrette with the greens creates a perfect backdrop for the Silver Oak Cabernet. Another one of our favorite pairings with Cab is with our Barbacoa Bowl. We smoke our heritage breed pork shoulder before we work our magic and turn it into carnitas. The smoked pork and black beans are just a natural with any great Napa Cab,” said Robinson. Robinson said many diners are surprised that naturally caramelized meats and vegetables go well with Cabernet Sauvignon. He added it is also possible to make matching Cabernet Sauvignons easy. There is a to-go option. “At our Southside’s Century location on Gasser Drive, you can choose a bird and Silver Oaks’ Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Fried Chicken Fridays have been a favorite since early spring. I advise going light on the chicken and heavy on the salad,” said Robinson.

SUMMER/FALL 2021

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LIVING THE LIFE

CONTEMPT TO CAMP Colin Macphail

hen you could bake a pizza on the sidewalk in Calistoga, a family’s thoughts turn to camping. Time to head to the coast for some cool air and sea breezes filled with those calming negative ions. Sarah picked Gualala. The kids like it there. I like it because it sounds like we went somewhere exotic in South America, not just a couple of hours from Calistoga. We go to a private campsite by the Gualala River. The river was so low and sluggish this year that I asked the kids not to swim in it. It looked like a pool that had had hundreds of occupants daily for weeks and no chlorine additions. The oceanfront time was the best — salty air and messing around with stones, sand, and shells. Gualala is far enough north that the coastline is very sparsely visited. At the campsite, you tent cheek by jowl and pretend you can’t read the sell-by date on the packet of sausages your neighbor is about to grill. We occupied an upscale shanty town, studiously ignoring each other to create the illusion of being alone in the great outdoors. For Campbell and Alice, the trip seems to be mostly about burning stuff. Poking a fire and waving burning sticks makes up about 70% of why they are there. As soon as they woke up, they asked, “Can we start a fire.” I counted 99 campsites, and as it was a busy weekend, the park was packed. Everybody had a campfire going. My throat 38 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

C O L I N M AC P H A I L was raspy for three days. It sounded like I worked in the music business in Nashville and I felt like a smoked mackerel hung up to dry between two giant redwoods. Our immediate neighbors had brought in their wood to save $20. It smelt like they were burning an old sofa. A nice split log becomes the new currency of the campsite. “I’d sell one of my children into slave labor for four nice dry pieces of oak.” This was the first trip I’d encountered dexterous raccoons. It’s disconcerting that they are not scared of you at all. I woke up to the sound of munching. After opening four different zips, five different ways, I finally found the combination that opened the tent. There is nothing louder than a zipper on a sleeping campsite at two o’clock in the morning. With a peg-pounding hammer in hand, I approached the raccoon. The raccoon did not run away. It looked at me and ran the risk analysis, “It’s dark, you can hardly see me, you are tiptoeing in bare feet, and you think you’ll hit me from there with that hammer? I’ll take my chances...” I finally pestered him enough to go open someone else’s food containers, but he did so grudgingly. Some people bring an incredible amount of stuff. A nearby family of about a hundred occupied three sites and had a full mobile kitchen set up with a steel frame for pots and pans that included a surprisingly extensive BBQ spice rack. Up against the side of one of their RV’s was a flat-screen the size of a pool

table. From dawn to dusk, they sat in their reclining camping chairs watching American football and action movies. As for the campsite bathrooms, don’t even get me started. If there were one reason not to go camping, trudging over there bleary-eyed at seven in the morning would be it. The stalls are so close together you can hear your neighbor’s thoughts. Campbell loved my story of his Uncle Tommy’s mischievousness as a youth so much that he persuaded me to let him buy Super Glue. Then he snuck to the bathrooms and glued a quarter in the middle of the floor. He was pleased with himself. Yes, camping is all about the family memories. One of my special moments was when we pulled up and parked behind some folks heading down to Bowling Ball Beach. They were entering the trees as I pulled up in the truck, and we started piling out. Thirty seconds later, the guy returned to the bike rack on his car. He got a cable out and started laboriously locking up their bikes. I guess our camping attire and appearance had degraded to “suspect” after three days. My most cherished beach memory is Alice struggling to find the best word to describe how nice it was to lie in a shallow lagoon luxuriating in the splendid isolation and womblike water temperature. “Dad isn’t this… so contemptuous!” Couldn’t have said it better myself. Colin MacPhail is a wine consultant and writer who lives in Calistoga. SUMMER/FALL 2021

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Oscar’s Place Wine country donkey rescue, rehab sanctuary, helps save Napa winery equine

R AC H E L R A S K I N ZRIHEN

Ron King with Red.

40 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Submitted photo‌

Ron King, former Time, Inc., Senior VP, says he’s traded life in the fast lane for the world of donkey rescue, and it’s a lucky thing for Buttercup, the donkey at Napa’s ADAMVS winery, who might have died otherwise. King, 52, who has worked on Style, Essence, Sunset and Southern magazines, said at about the time he retired from media, several unexpected stars aligned and he found himself with the desire and the wherewithal to rescue donkeys which would otherwise be slaughtered for their hides. “Two things happened serendipitously,” he said. “I was helping sell a piece of property in Hopland – 45 miles north of Santa Rosa – for the owner. When I moved here, I found it a beautiful place, and at about the same time, I read an article about the rate at which donkeys were being slaughtered for this popular Chinese (medicine – ejiao).” Websites on the issue say in the past decade or so, the growing popularity of ejiao, which supposedly treats anemia, reproductive issues and insomnia, has led to the destruction of millions of donkeys. Though its curative properties are unproven, according to NPR.com, it is nevertheless an ingredient in tonics and face creams to the tune of millions of dollars and about four million dead donkeys annually. Then, King said he saw a story on Tik Tok about a woman who was rescuing donkeys. “She was going to auctions and outbidding the others, but had no place to take (the donkeys),” he said. “Both these things happened in the same

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week. So, I looked out my window, and here I had this place with 75 acres, with a barn. I was retired from media, and now I rescue donkeys.” Oscar’s Place Adoption Center & Sanctuary, is named for a favorite cat of the property owner/client – Los Angeles philanthropist Phil Selway, who, King said, wants his legacy to be one of animal welfare. “In December, 2020, we contacted that lady and got our first five donkeys, to make sure it was a good match and we fell in love with them,” he said. “Then, the next 25 came in early January. They come from a kill pen in Bowie, Texas, where they are being auctioned off by the pound for slaughter.” Oscar’s Place was awarded Verified status as of Aug. 1 by the Global Federation of Animal Sanctuaries (GFAS), the only globally recognized organization providing standards for identifying legitimate animal sanctuaries. “I am committed to doing everything in my power to help these donkeys,” King said. “I was advised early on that Please see Oscar, Page 42

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Oscar’s Place Oscar’s Place/The Selway Family Foundation is a 501c3 non-profit oscarsplace.org

Pia, the baby donkey

Submitted photo‌

Ron King with Viejo

Submitted photo‌

INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 41

Ron King with Calico.

Submitted photo‌

OSCAR From Page 41

accreditation from GFAS would provide us the resources and validation needed to accelerate our work.” Though donkeys make great family pets for someone with enough room, most of the doomed equines are owner surrenders, or wild captures, King said. “There are options before auction, but many people don’t know that,” he said. “They call themselves a livestock auction, but on their site they do say they’re a kill center.” This discovery didn’t sit well with King. “It was sad,” he said. “I was born on a farm in Arkansas, but donkeys never entered my brain. It made me research donkeys and I realized how incredible they are. So smart, friendly and emotional. And there are people saving dogs and cats and horses but not many saving donkeys, so I became an advocate for them.” Enter Napa’s ADAMVS winery. “This Napa winery’s donkey is sick and the vet said she’s dying of loneliness,” King said. “They came here to adopt a companion. It shows (the animals’) level of intelligence and emotions.” Kit Gilbert is general manager of ADAMVS which, she said, is Latin for “born from our red earth.” “We have that red earth here in Napa, it’s lava derived. It’s absolutely spectacular 42 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

for growing cabernet sauvignon,” she said. The winery’s chickens had been falling prey to predators, and officials were advised to invest in a guard animal. “Our vet suggested we rescue a donkey, because we were losing chickens,” she said. “We now have a donkey named Buttercup, who we got as a guard for our chickens, and haven’t lost one in three years.” But, all was not well with Buttercup, Gilbert said. “We notice over the last 12 months or so, since the fires, and having her evacuated, and all the stressful events, she was having medical issues,” she said. “We spoil her. She gets the best, organic food; she gets lots of attention; a great place to live, but she was having these issues. We were told that pack animals can have these issues from loneliness. So we were told another donkey or even a pony would work, but we love Buttercup so much we wanted to get her a donkey companion.” ADAMVS’ Cristina Chavez discovered Oscar’s Place, and did “a whole lot of research” and decided to contact them, and King and Oscar’s officials matched Buttercup with McGee, a “fixed” male rescue about Buttercup’s age, that seemed like the perfect fit, Gilbert said. “They were incredible, they found us McGee,” she said. “He’s handsome, sweet, the right age, mild mannered, and he likes people but also likes his space, which is a good balance for us. We want this to be a happy home for them. Donkeys are kinda like penguins in that they have one partner for life. They’re inseparable. So we’re hoping to find that love-match for Buttercup.” Though the adoption process is “serious,” Gilbert said were expecting McGee over the summer. She describes the fourman team at Oscar’s Place as “extraordinarily professional and passionate about what they do. Cristina said she observed that when babies are born at the ranch, there’s a human there to help, and they get acclimated to humans. It’s a beautiful place and everyone there is 100 percent engaged in what they’re doing, and they’re doing it for the right reasons.” The donkeys come to Oscar’s through Tahlia Fischer and her Bakersfield-based nonprofit, All Seated in a Barn, horse and donkey rescue, who raises funds to outbid others at the kill center auctions to buy the donkeys. So far, she’s given Oscar’s 55 of them. “We take them in, do emotional and physical rehab and once they’re ready, we adopt them out. We have a waiting list of

seven,” he said. Each new arrival is quickly named for record keeping’s sake, so they have donkeys named Pickles, Snickers, Alfredo – “from a social media thing – what’s the last thing you ate,” King said. “Like, we have a skinny white one we called Justin Bieber.” Although the whole point is to adopt these animals out to good homes, King said saying goodbye is difficult. He’s adopted a half dozen himself. “We are committed to their rehabilitation,” he said. The physical is easy, but the emotional requires a lot of interaction and we get very close and I get emotional every time one leaves. I have adopted six. Goose, Pickles and Shadow, Viejo, Felix, and Whiz kid. We kept the first three, who are under a year old. Viejo is an old man, and he visits with people. The last two were so sick when they arrived and have permanent physical issues.” King said donkey rescue is his future. “I’m the steward for now, and we have a succession plan and it will live beyond me,” he said. “I spent the first 50 years working to help humans, including me. And now I’m helping donkeys. They say thank you every day. They’re just so loving. They’re treated so badly in the auction houses, it takes a couple weeks but they eventually realize they’re safe and we’re here to help them. I think they can tell.”

Submitted photo‌

McGee the donkey, one of the animals rescued by Oscar’s Place.

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Track St. John’s Lutheran school adjusts annual event to meet COVID reality

VA L E R I E OW E N S

espite all odds and a year like none other, St. John’s Lutheran was determined to provide students with a sense of normalcy. The Napa-based private school was determined to make the annual Get on Track (Color Run) event in April as traditional as possible, while still adjusting to the new pandemic reality. As a mother of two sons attending the school, I stepped into the role of chair of the event with one intention, and that was to make sure every child had fun. The baton had been passed to me yet the blueprint needed to comply

44 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

with COVID safety guidelines. Given the past year, I recognized that the overall goal and framework would have to be altered. The challenge was how to keep the heart and soul of the event intact. Having big shoes to fill, I admit I was nervous. Year after year, parent volunteers have made this a spectacular event. One that my sons look forward to every year. Money is not only raised to support the students but a portion of the funds are also shared with local charities. I knew right away that I had my work cut out for me given the new

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protocols. However, what I found was a community of teachers, staff, parents, volunteers and sponsors who provided unwavering support. I witnessed students who were thrilled to have a day, no matter what it looked like, where they could celebrate and leave behind COVID, even if it was just for a few hours. “I love how Get on Track brings the entire school community together,” said St. John’s Principal Christy Wood. “The enjoyment of seeing our students physically active to promote fundraising is a joy. I love to see our students pushing themselves hard running around the track and then to see our parents cheering the students on is magical.” According to veteran St. John’s teacher Betsy Gewirz, the event originated in the early 1980s as a fundraiser and was called the “JogA-Thon.” Gewirz mentioned that the event took place originally in the south parking lot. Then, a number of years back, the name was changed to “Get On Track” since the school’s

track was completed. Eventually, the name evolved into The Color Run. “It was also decided a few years ago that each class would adopt a charity and a portion of the raised money would be donated,” said Gewirz. “The event built a community within the school and was often attended by relatives and church members, bringing a sense of serving those in need.” This year, the overarching objective was to promote regularity and raise funds that would benefit the students’ education and enrichment opportunities through the Association of Parents and Teachers or APT. As the one and only fundraiser for the year, the goal was to create a dynamic event that followed every safety precaution while giving the kids something to look forward to. The event included a track color run adhering to COVID-19 guidelines, a spirit week, an online flat fee donation platform, a NIFTY FIFTY Drawing, poster contest and Please see Track, Page 46

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additional classroom and student prizes. In the end, resilience prevailed. Students were asked to think outside of the box to obtain donations. Sponsors were approached with hope and a new principal emerged with guidance and leadership. Together, the students and sponsors raised over 34,000 according to APT Treasurer Mike Manfred. “Get On Track is the highlight of the school year,” said Natalie Allen, parent of 3rd grader Violet Allen,. “It’s such a joy to see the school community come together in the spirit of fun to raise money for the school and awareness for various charities.” With a new school year approaching, the dawn of a new day comes to light. With a committee in place and restrictions lifted, Get On Track will return to its former glory. Moving the event to the spring of 2022, I look forward to chairing the event once again and working with the great family of St, John’s Lutheran School. At the heart of the community is the notion that no matter what challenge is set before them, they will continue to soar as Eagles.

46 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

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For the love of trees Experts offer advice on how best to care for your home trees

bout a month ago, my HOA had some tree work done. I could hear the racket of their saws and woodchipper for hours as I worked in my home office. There are two tall trees on either side of our parking lot; I don’t know what kind, but they shake tremendously in the wind and it was not uncommon for large branches to fall off in a gust, so they clearly needed some attention. The next day, when I went to see the result of all that noise, I was dismayed to find these once-proud trees butchered beyond recognition. This wasn’t a mere pruning – this was practically an assassination. I know little about trees and tree care, but it seemed obvious even to me that the workers had no idea what they were doing, beyond trying to remove mass. The plants were

E L AY N A T RU C K E R denuded, with spindly branches suddenly bare to the sky and bizarre formations made out of the branches that hung down and to the sides. One of my neighbors declared that after seeing the hack job done on these trees she cried. It got me thinking: besides being unsightly, what damage could have been done to the trees with this poor pruning? I turned to two Napa locals who have been working on trees for a long time. Bill Pramuk, Consulting Arborist with Pramuk, Trees and Associates; and Joe Schneider of Pacific Tree Care, based in Calistoga. I knew their decades of experience could help me understand the consequences of bad pruning, as well as inform us of how we can best care for our trees in our fire-prone, drying

climate. Both experts agreed that pruning should be done sparingly, and Joe cautioned that this is especially the case in drought conditions. Pruning a tree is all about structural integrity: some trees add a fair amount of weight as they get older and, if they’re in your yard, tree owners will want to occasionally get rid of older branches so young growth has a better chance. Joe noted that our indigenous oak species can live up to seven hundred years Bill Pramuk (the oldest he’s ever come across was about four hundred), and they grow out and down, with old branches eventually sloughing off. That’s all well and good in a wild landscape, but on your property, you might need to guide this process. Propped limbs – branches that help prop up the tree – tend to be pruned away in favor of elevation, but this practice should be discouraged, as it can weaken a tree’s structural development. Bill says that “trees should be mindfully examined at least once per year, and not at the same

A Canary Island pine, Spain. Anders93, Dreamstime.com

48 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

SPRING/SUMMER 2021

Andreistanescu, Dreamstime.com‌

A large coast live oak tree, near San Jose.

time of the year every year.” An arborist will look at the architecture of the tree to see where there might be potential for failure, and then prune with an eye to discouraging that from happening. The key to it all: exercise restraint. As Bill notes, “trees and forests existed just fine for tens of millions of years with no pruning before Homo sapiens appeared.” “You want a happy tree,” Joe adds, “put it back in the forest. Create the amenities that 400 million years of evolution have added.” Why is it important to properly prune your trees? Bill lists a litany of reasons: structural failure, permanent disfigurement, increased risk of disease and pests, “temporary loss of normal flowering or fruiting,” and even conflicts with your neighbors. Joe likens good pruning to a hug, and bad pruning to a punch. You want the tree to respond to pruning with increased vitality, not react to aggressive pruning which might cause a tree to put on a lot more growth over a short period of time, defeating the purpose. Joe loves to speak in analogies: “Leaves are the employees – they’re making money for the business. They get paid in nutrients and water. If you overprune your tree and fire the employees, you have less money coming in and have to hire new employees. They’re still in training,” meaning they won’t do as good a job at resource management, hence

SUMMER/FALL 2021

Cynthia Sweeney, Weekly Calistogan‌

Joe Schneider, right and his Pacific Tree Care crew planted new trees along Lincoln Avenue in Calistoga on Jan. 31, 2020 replacing trees that were dying.

that possible loss of fruit or flowers that Bill noted. Both experts agreed that drought care includes a lot of attention paid to the soil and root systems, not so much to the tree above ground. Mulch is the most important component, according

to Joe. A hearty amount of mulch helps maintain moisture levels, which in a drought, helps maximize water usage. Chip mulch from wood chippers is a great base, and if you can add composted Please see Trees, Page 50

INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 49

A Chinese elm in Laguna Woods, California.

Vlad303, Dreamstime.com‌

A coastal redwood, Washington state

TREES From Page 49

mulch, that’s even better. You want to keep the microorganisms in the soil happy, because they are integral to a healthy root system. There are even injectable fungi spores for soil treatments, to help build your soil, if necessary. If you do irrigate, water with a drip system or laser-cut tubing, the best ways to keep soil moist without wasting water. Pruning during a drought can lead to poor resource management. Open wounds (i.e. pruning cuts) make a tree react with defensive measures, when they should be focusing on keeping their root systems healthy. And if too many branches are removed, the ones remaining may become sun-damaged. I asked both Bill and Joe what tree species they think will do well as our climate continues to heat up and dry out. Bill mentioned the work of arborist Dave Muffly of Oaktopia, who believes the netleaf oak (Quercus rugosa), a tree native to Mexico that is well-adapted to hot weather, might do well in our area. As an added bonus, it might not be susceptible to 50 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Sudden Oak Death. Joe stressed that native species are always the way to go, but if you do decide to go with an exotic plant, do your research so you know how to care for it. Fires are another growing presence in our area, so I asked the two arborists about the best way to protect trees on your property from fire damage. Both agree that creating a defensible space is the smartest thing to do, and Joe admonishes that elevating the tree with pruning will only lead to more light getting to the ground beneath the tree, spurring the growth of fire-prone plants like grasses. Bill suggests working with your local Fire Safe Council, if you’re in an area that has one, and if your property is wooded or forested, to check if you qualify for funding through the Napa County Resource Conservation District or Natural Resource Conservation Service. The most fire-resistant native tree is the coastal redwood, but these are tough to have on personal property. The coastal live oak, as well as valley oaks, are also good choices. Joe also recommends Canary Island pines and Chinese elms. One of the keys to surviving fire is size; larger trees tend to be more resistant to fire. Another is having lots of meristematic points; these junctures allow a tree to grow new parts out of old parts, and having more of them means a tree might be able to survive a fire better than others. Certain fires, of course, are just too violent for anything to survive, and if a fire burns hot enough, it could kill the microbiome of the soil, so even if the tree survives the fire, it might not live for much long after. There is no protection for a tree in a firestorm, unfortunately. If a tree on your property is left standing after a fire, have an arborist come take a look at it soon afterwards, and follow up

JenningsSayre, Dreamstime.com‌

with examinations for about three years. Joe explained the initial examination process: the arborist will take two-inch plugs of the trees so you can see how healthy it is inside. You want to test the most visibly fire damaged area. If the plug is white and gelatinous, the tree will probably be okay. Put the plug back in, increase irrigation a little bit, and add mulch but no nitrogen. If the plug smells like wine, meaning the liquid inside has fermented, it probably won’t survive. His advice? “Save your money, plant a new tree.” I had to ask Bill and Joe if they have a favorite tree, and they do. Bill loves coastal redwoods but has often had to recommend removing them if they’re planted too close to a home. He also loves oaks, namely the coastal live oak, which can present some fun and interesting challenges to proper care. Joe loves the valley oaks as well, with their pendulating limbs and geotropic growth due to gravity’s pull. He’s also deeply inspired by giant sequoias, and once had the opportunity to climb down the inside of a 259-foot tall tree that had been mostly hollowed out by lightning fire, which can smolder inside a tree for hundreds of years. “Talk about a spiritual encounter,” he exclaimed. Any last advice for tree owners? If an arborist recommends a certain treatment, make sure they tell you why. If they can’t tell you why, it’s probably not necessary for the tree’s health and they’re only trying to make money. Often, the best thing to do for a tree is to leave it alone. If you want to call in either of these professionals, Bill Pramuk can be reached at info@billpramuk.com or (707) 363-0114; Joe Schneider and Pacific Tree Care can be contacted at info@pacifictreecare.com or (707) 942-0261. SUMMER/FALL 2021

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IN NAPA VALLEY TIM CARL

were only able to process about 20% of our wine last year because of smoke damage, but the little we do have is pretty fantastic.”

Kirk Venge carries on a wine industry legacy For more than two decades winemaker Kirk Venge has made some of the finest examples of wines the Napa Valley has to offer. He also nearly lost everything in last year’s 2020 Glass Fire, when he watched as a wall of flames descended toward his winery and tasting room in Calistoga. “Up until then, the 2020 vintage had looked near perfect, and we were days away from harvesting,” he said. But in late September a raging inferno ripped through the region — scorching 70,000 acres and incinerating 1,555 structures. Among those were 27 damaged wineries and six that burned to the ground. The fire then left a path of singed vineyards in its wake. That night the flames headed straight at Venge as he tried to wet down his structures with a hose. “The fire came so fast that at one point I had to get to the middle of the vineyard for safety,” he said. “I was pretty certain the winery was done for.”

52 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Tim Carl LLC‌

Kirk Venge’s DLCV wine named in honor of his mother, Dianna Lynn Candy Venge.

In a fortunate twist of fate, the winds shifted and the conflagration abruptly turned. Over the next few days, Kirk stood guard, stamping out small fires that started as flaming embers continued dropping from the smoke-filled sky. When the fire had eventually been fully extinguished, all of his structures and vineyards had been left virtually untouched. “It was pretty amazing,” he said. “We

GOOD BONES‌ Kirk Venge’s grandfather, Per, the son of immigrants from Denmark, started a wine and spirits import business in Southern California in the mid-20th century, inspiring Kirk’s father, Nils Venge, to become a winemaker. Nils graduated from UC Davis with a degree in viticulture in 1967, followed by a tour of duty in Vietnam as a Navy reservist before moving to the Napa Valley where he worked for notable wineries, such as Charles Krug, Sterling and Groth. Eventually, in 1976 — the year Kirk was born — his family purchased a 17-acre parcel in Oakville and planted it with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Growing up, Kirk witnessed his father become an influential force within Napa Valley and beyond. Nils made some of the wines ogled over by wine reviewers such as Robert Parker Jr., including the 1985 Groth Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon that received a 100-point

SUMMER/FALL 2021

score, which, according to the Saddleback website, made him the first American winemaker to do so. By the mid-1990s Kirk’s family had launched their own Venge Family wine brand and purchased a second property — the old Rossini “ghost winery” in Bell Canyon, just northeast of St. Helena. Hoping to build a “forever” winery, the family set about renovating the dilapidated building that had sat vacant since being abandoned during Prohibition. “It was pretty amazing — old stone walls and a cellar — really good bones,” Kirk said. Kirk was involved with the entire process of renovation, believing that one day the reimagined structure would be where he would make wine as an adult. However, when his parents divorced in 2008 the winery was sold to the William Foley group. Kirk was left adrift and pondering how he might ever afford his own winery.

AN ANGEL‌ “I always wanted to be a winery owner — even when I was just 6 years old,” Kirk said. “I looked up to my dad, and I thought that working in the vineyards, driving tractors, traveling and being around interesting people seemed like such a great life.” But purchasing a vineyard and constructing a winery are exceptionally expensive, and with the family’s winery sold, it appeared he might never own his own operation. That’s when his mother and sister stepped in. “My mother was my first ‘angel investor,’” he said. “She and my sister loaned me money to get me started. They both provided me the support and resources to purchase the vineyard and build a small winery. Without them, this would never have happened.” Kirk’s mother passed in 2011, but her legacy lives on through his winery and vineyard. He has also honored her by creating a wine in her name — “DLCV” for Dianna

An aerial view of the Venge vineyard.

Lynn Candy Venge. Only one or two barrels of this wine are made each year — from the finest selection of the vintage — and each bottle costs $475. This wine is so rare and sought-after that no mention can be found on the winery’s website, and allocations are by invitation only.

Tim Carl LLC‌

“She was and always will be my life’s inspiration,” he said. “This wine is one way I can share with others just how special she was.” FINDING A MENTOR‌ Kirk, like his father before him, Please see Venge, Page 54

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Kirk Venge at his winery off Silverado Trail, south of Calistoga in the Napa Valley

VENGE From Page 51

had obtained a viticulture and enology degree from UC Davis. As a student there, he found an influential mentor, Hugh Davies, who would eventually take the reins at his own family’s Schramsberg Vineyards, a sparkling wine producer in the Napa Valley. Another of the second-generation Napa Valley vintners, Davies, 10 years Kirk’s senior, was attending UC Davis’ influential winemaking school to obtain a master’s in enology. “I felt exceptionally lucky to have Hugh take me under his wing like that,” Kirk said. Beyond helping Davies at school, Kirk also worked at Schramsberg during the summers. “Kirk was an enthusiastic, hard-working 18-year-old when I first met him,” Davies said. “Always positive, always present, he was a great candidate to join my tasting panel for my master’s thesis work.” Eventually, Kirk would work at other wineries, including Mumm Napa and internships overseas. Today, Kirk is himself a mentor for dozens of aspiring winemakers, not only those working and interning at his winery but also those working at the numerous brands for which he consults, including B Cellars Winery, Bacio Divino Cellars, Eleven Eleven Wines, Hunnicutt Wine Co. Implicit Cellars, JAX Vineyards, Macauley Vineyard, Mirror Wines, Promise Wine, Sky Devil Wines, Trespass Vineyards and Tres Perlas Wines. “Kirk was cut out to do this kind of work,” Davies said. “He’s carried his infectious energy straight on through these last 25+ years, and it is no surprise to see him succeed as a winemaker and winery owner/ operator.” 54 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Tim Carl LLC‌

THE WINES OF VENGE‌ Besides being pleasant and happy, Kirk is a winemaker whose talents are in high demand because he consistently makes delicious wines. I am not talking about the type of deliciousness of many high-scoring wines of yesteryear with over-the-top alcohol and sweetness. I am speaking of wines that can be “big” without being unidimensional and cloying. Producing little more than a few hundred cases of each different wine each vintage, Kirk’s offerings this year include a range of red wines and two white wines. I detail four: the 2019 Brown Ranch Chardonnay ($47 per bottle, 400 cases made), the 2019 Signal Fire Calistoga Zinfandel ($50 per bottle, 450 cases made), the 2017 Kenefick Ranch Merlot ($75 per bottle, 300 cases made) and the 2018 Bone Ash Calistoga Cabernet Sauvignon ($115 per bottle, 600 cases made). The Brown Ranch Chardonnay comes from grapes grown in the Carneros region of south Napa. This wine is straw-gold in color with aromas of orange blossom, chalk and toasted hazelnuts. Flavors of ripe pear, grilled pineapple, coconut zest and candied lemon merge with vanilla. Try this wine with sautéed sea scallops served with grilled mission figs and a salad of arugula tossed in a light dressing of apple cider vinegar and olive oil. The grapes for the Signal Fire Zinfandel are sourced from Kirk’s Calistoga dry-farmed, old-vine vineyard just north of the hot-springs geyser. Beyond natural rain, these venerable vines receive no irrigation and produce a tiny crop — only 1 ton of grapes per acre. Able to survive in the parched soils by having strong, deep roots, the grapes produce a surreal wine — inky-black in color with complex aromas of sun-dried red raspberries, cracked black peppercorns, dried sage and molasses. Flavors include blackberry jam, toasted malt and German chocolate cake. Enjoy this with spareribs brushed with puree of sun-dried cherries.

The Kenefick Ranch Merlot fruit comes from the nearby Kenefick Vineyard just north of Kirk’s property and represents a scrumptious example of the versatility of the merlot grape. One of my favorite varieties of Vitis vinifera, this example of wine is a study in concentration. The color is mahogany in the glass with aromatics that linger on dried blueberry, darkroasted coffee, fresh tobacco and Chambord. In the mouth, this wine is a silky wave, with flavors of duck confit and Chinese five-spice that finish with blueberry and cedar incense. Ponder enjoying this wine alongside seared duck breast sauced with cherries and port reduction. Bone Ash is grown at the Calistoga winery location and produces Cabernet Sauvignon wines comparable to many of the adjacent well-regarded vineyards such as the Fisher Family, Kenefick and Araujo vineyards. This wine is quintessential Napa Valley Cab, opaque in the glass with a ruby rim and aromas of creme de cassis, cedar, leather and black truffle. The flavors are of a classic French demi-glace sauce that has been infused with bacon, umeshu and Mexican chocolate. This wine would go with any hearty game dish. I’m picturing venison grilled over an oak-wood fire that has a few sprigs of thyme smoldering in the ashes, accompanied by grilled radicchio that has been brushed lightly with balsamic vinegar. KIRK VENGE — ROOTED HERE‌ “He is rooted here,” Davies said. “Here’s a guy that was born into this industry and community — we are fortunate to have his commitment, his experience and motivation here in the Napa Valley.” This rootedness seems to be an important source of Kirk’s success, and it furthers his family’s legacy of helping define and refine what it means to be a Napa Valley vintner. “There are plenty of challenges — drought, fire, the skyrocketing cost of insurance — but I love what we make, I love wine,” he said. “This is usable art — tangible, collectible and changes with time.” Kirk paused and looked out the window of his tasting room. A few groups of visitors occasionally oohed and aahed as they tasted wine on the outside deck. Beyond, less than 50 yards away, the winery structure stood flanked by green rows of vines. In the distance sun-baked, dry, beige hills loomed, many still strewn with blackened trees from the recent fire. “Yes, there are challenges,” he repeated, “but for me, the most powerful force out there is remembering just how much there is to be grateful for — family, friends and the opportunity to live, work and share this amazing place.” SUMMER/FALL 2021

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Tacos

La Esperanza: Baja-style tacos and meals at your fingertips JENNIFER HUFFMAN j h uf f man @n apa news.c om

ou won’t have to go far for some of Napa’s best Baja-style tacos and food. Just make a stop at Tacos La Esperanza. Parked almost in front of Matthew’s Mattress, at 1551 Soscol Ave., the food truck is open 10:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., 365 days-a-year. “It doesn’t matter what holiday,”—he’s open, said owner Rene Gonzalez Jr. “We gotta stay loyal to our customers.” WHO’S MAKING YOUR FOOD?‌ Gonzalez himself. “I’m the boss.” inside. Lightly battered fish with an aoli-type sauce was another WHAT YOU’RE EATING:‌ winner. The shrimp torta comes Tacos, burritos, quesadillas, on a fluffy “bun” that got a little tortas, aguas frescas and chips soggy on the way home, but that and salsa. Fill with your choice didn’t stop us from eating every of asada (steak), pollo (chicken), bite. carnitas (fried pork), pastor (spicy pork), camaron (shrimp), BACK STORY:‌ pescado (fish), lengua (beef Gonzalez has operated Tacos tounge) or birria (spicy shredded La Esperanza on the 1500 block beef ). of Soscol Avenue for more than On a recent visit, two diners a dozen years. tried a varied selection of foods The food business is in his from La Esperanza including an blood. It began with Gonzalez’s al pastor taco, a shrimp taco, a great-grandmother’s restaurant in fish taco, carne asada taco, ques- the Mexican state of Ensenada – abirria taco and a shrimp torta. the birthplace of the recipe for The shrimp taco, a favorite, the Baja-style fish tacos that his was pleasantly sweet but also truck serves today. His father and acidic. A carne asada taco wasn’t his uncles have run food trucks too dry and had a wonderful bal- all over the Bay Area since the anced flavor. 1970s, according to Gonzalez. The quesabirria featured a Even his 75-year-old grandfather crunchy corn tortilla with the still slings tacos out of his truck shredded meat and a spicy sauce in Oakland. 58 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

DON’T LEAVE WITHOUT TRYING:‌ The Ensenada fish tacos. “It’s a traditional recipe from my hometown,” said Gonzalez.

Jennifer Huffman, Register‌

Tacos La Esperanza has a menu with items that range from just a few dollars up to about $18.

PRICE RANGE:‌ Tacos start at $2.50. The most expensive item is a big from out of state and even out shrimp burrito: it’s $18. of the country. “We keep it old school,” and customers find him HIS PRIME PARKING SPOT:‌ by word of mouth, said GonzaSoscol Avenue is a great loca- lez. “It’s better that way.” tion, he noted. “We’re close to downtown, the Westin, the River WORD TO THE WISE:‌ Terrace Inn, the Oxbow… More “You can get a beef burrito than 50% of our customers are anywhere,” Gonzalez said. La tourists.” Esperanza makes a quesabirria, which is birria-style cooked beef ON THE DOWN LOW:‌ folded into a tortilla with spices. Unlike many food trucks, Or try a steak and shrimp burGonzalez hardly promotes his rito, he advised. business on social media. He doesn’t have to. His customers You can reach reporter Jennifer come from all over, including Huffman at 256-2218 or jhuffVallejo, Fairfield and tourists man@napanews.com SUMMER/FALL 2021

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WEST WON

BREAD A grandfather’s story led to a new Napa bakery K AT H L E E N R E Y N O L D S When Kyle Kuehner was a child, hearty bread was served with every dinner at his grandparent’s house. Also at every meal, his grandpa would pull apart the dark, rich bread and proclaim, “The bread that won the west!” That statement made more of an impression on young Kyle than he realized. “I didn’t know much about bread,” Kuehner said. “Much less about how to make it.” Nonetheless, he would go on to become a baker, specifically, a bread baker. But that’s not where the story began. “My college majors were English literature and creative writing,” said Kuehner. “I started out as an English language teacher for foreign students at a private school in San Francisco. I loved teaching, but when I was named the academic manager, I wasn’t happy in the work.” As a hobby to relieve the job grind, he started baking bread at home. He’d practice different breads over and over before moving on to the next type of bread. He realized that he loved the art of baking bread. “After a year of home baking, I left the academic life and got a job at Firebrand Artisan Breads in Oakland. It was great and I couldn’t have asked for a better situation,” said Kuehner. Kuehner worked closely with the founder and head baker, Matt Kreutz. “I did everything there, packed bread, made pretzels and worked my way up to baking. I was allowed to dive right in.” He and his wife, Elise, lived in San Francisco. He commuted to the bakery in Oakland, and she commuted to her position as a pediatric nurse at Stanford in Palo Alto. They wanted a change of pace from the city life with a move to the country. They came to Napa on a whim. “We saw a house we loved, and it was the best decision we ever made. It’s a wonderful community. You can see the community togetherness, especially at the farmer’s market. It’s been great.” Kyle commuted to Oakland five nights a week, working from 9 p.m. to 5 a.m. for a year, he said. “I made a change to be closer to home and worked at the Model Bakery.” At Firebrand, he’d learned what it took to run a production bakery and always had the desire to have his own operation. When his son was born, he made the big move. For about three 60 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Anya McInroy photo‌

Kyle and Elise Kuehner, with their children at their West Won Bread bakery and cafe in Napa.

to try and are close to West Won Bread bakes a variety of sourdough introducing loaves including baguettes and a quinoa loaf. a brioche. Sasha Paulsen/Register‌ “ We’re expanding our pasyears he baked and sold his bread, under the try side. We’ve brought on some great Culinary name Royal Artisan Breads, at the Napa and St. Institute graduates who are bakers and it’s been Helena Farmer’s Markets. a pleasure working with them and be teaching “I started looking for a retail location in 2019. again. One of them is working on croissants, I bought equipment, a commercial stove, and galettes and other different sweets. We always mixer. I’d already invested $60,000 so I had to want to be there for bread but also offer somekeep moving forward, although COVID slowed thing different to set us apart.” down the search for a place. A lot of the process Kyle’s baking hours aren’t as onerous as they was stressful but became exciting when we started once were. Most days he and the other bakers making progress.” start at 6 a.m. and mix until noon, then spend After extensive renovations to a site that previ- the rest of the day shaping the bread by hand. ously housed Quiznos Sub Restaurant, Kuehner Bread is baked in the evening and the last person opened West Won Bread at 1800 Soscol Ave. in finishes up around 2 a.m. Napa on April 22 of this year. He continues to “Along with pastries, we’re working on focacsell bread and sandwiches at the farmer’s markets. cia with different toppings like prosciutto and “I fell in love with making bread, working figs, summer squash and mozzarella. Roasted with my hands and learning the craft. In a way, peaches are popular. We want to offer more grabbread crossed my path when I’d reached a fork and-go items, salads and sandwiches, expand our in my life. I enjoy the team aspect of working use of leftovers by making croutons and breadtogether for a goal. That may have come from crumbs.” playing team sports.” West Won offers a variety of toasted breakfast “I’m always striving to make the perfect loaf. items, seasonal sandwiches and specials, along I tell bakery students that they really must love with cheeses and various beverages. Their website the work. It’s physically demanding and tiring. is www.westwonbread.com. You have to love it.” “One thing our staff always comments on is So far, the most popular bread at the Napa that over 75% of our customers are local. Yes, Farmer’s Market and the bakery is the West Won Napa is a tourist destination, but my support Organic Sourdough, made with wheat and whole system are the locals who come in three or four rye. Kyle’s personal favorite is the Sprouted Rye times a week. That’s who we want, people who and Sesame. His stock rotates between 12 and 14 say ‘hi’ and see a friendly face. We’re trying to different artisan breads. give something back to them in the products we “People really enjoy the breads we make with make. I want them to see what they’ve invested ancient grain such as spelt. We’ve used einkorn, in me, in their time and support.” the oldest cultivated grain known. People with West Won Bread is at 1800 A Soscol Ave., gluten sensitivity find it’s easier on their stom- Napa, in the Soscol Business Center Park. It achs. We mill the einkorn berries, and the bread opens at 7 a.m. for freshly baked bread, scones, is completely dense, like rye with a different fla- cookies, and other seasonal dishes, and also serves vor. It’s become hard and expensive to get that beverages, sandwiches and salads. For more inforgrain though.” mation, visit westwonbread.com or call 707-927The bakers are always working on new bread 5597. SUMMER/FALL 2021

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A move to Napa sets up a varied new life path When longtime resident Sally Gordon was a student at UC Berkeley in the mid-Sixties, she and her friends would drive up to the small, quiet town of Napa on weekends to taste wines. “Napa was known, at least in the Bay Area at that time, as the destination for people who appreciated good wine. Schramsberg, Beaulieu, Inglenook, Mondavi, Charles Krug – they all had small tasting rooms.” Sally Gordon “The industry hadn’t even begun to take off. The only wine readily available anywhere came from the Central Valley in glass jugs,” she says. “At the time, it was customary for people to just drink coffee with their meals. Robert Mondavi had a big vision for Napa and was

intent on educating people about wine and the significance of this region. I remember Margrit was always in the background, making note of what people were interested in.” Sally moved to Napa with her husband in 1977. “We were living in San Francisco and decided to move to a quieter place to start a family. We paid $80,000 for a duplex in the historical district of Napa and thought that was an astronomical amount of money. I never thought in a million years that 44 years later, I would still be here. I just never wanted to leave.” Sally soon discovered that her business of buying and selling French fine art was a timely and perfect niche that led to a partnership and then a full-time position with Domain Chandon. “I read about their opening in Yountville while in Nice,” she says. “I visited their new tasting room as soon as I came home. I looked around and said, ‘You’ve got all these bare walls and I’ve got lots of French

art. How about we work together?’” Sally filled the walls and enjoyed talking about the artwork while pouring sparkling wine for tourists. When all the artwork sold, she was invited to create another show. The arrangement was going so well, the winery (which had grown to include Yountville’s first fine dining restaurant) offered Sally the newly created full-time position of public relations director. In that position, Sally helped launch and grow Domain Chandon’s wine club, the first known loyalty club in the industry. She traveled extensively and the membership grew from 10,000 to 150,000 members in five years. “We were inventing and discovering what worked,” she says. “The concept grew like wildfire and became a successful model for all the rest to follow.” After leaving Chandon, Sally worked with Warren Winiarski, the founder and former proprietor of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and then with Chalone Wine Group for six years before deciding to open up her own wine bar in Yountville. Gordon’s Café and Wine Bar was located in the building that is now Ciccio’s and Submited photo

62 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

SPRING/SUMMER 2021

originally served as one of the first grocery/gas stations between Napa and St. Helena. “We were next door to famous Pancha’s bar and would often trade dinners for drinks. Pancha’s was a great neighbor and let us use some of their land for an herb and vegetable garden for the restaurant.” “At the time,” she says, “There were no other existing wine bars in Yountville except for Chandon. The only restaurants were the Diner (where Ad Hoc now exists), Bob Hurley’s place, the French Laundry, and Gordon’s. But the landscape of Yountville was changing and more and more people were stopping in. Thomas Keller and the French Laundry had arrived just about a year prior and they were a sensation right away. They would hold their staff meetings at Gordon’s all the time. It was a wonderful tight-knit community.” From 1996 to 2007, Gordon’s enjoyed a great run, but complying with the ever-changing ordinances finally compelled Sally to make the difficult decision to close the doors for good, saying goodbye to her long-time friends, the head chef and lead server. She then started a successful catering business and even considered opening up a new restaurant, but she thankfully heeded the

Sally and Steve

Submitted photo‌

advice of a mentor who told her the timing was wrong to start a new business. After taking several years off, it was Sally’s Rabbi who suggested she consider becoming certified as a life coach. Skeptical at first, Sally went back to school at UC Davis and although she was the oldest person in the class, she found herself invigorated and inspired to launch into a new career. Four years later, Sally says, “I should have done this versus ever opening a restaurant!” When she reflects on changes she’s seen in the valley since arriving here in the late 1970s, Sally has mixed feelings on its development. “Oxbow’s opening was wonderful,” she

says. “The marketplace serves out-of-towners and neighbors alike. However, I feel that downtown planners have seemingly focused on developing only what is attractive to tourists. Not that we shouldn’t have new businesses; I believe there just hasn’t been enough thought into what stores would also serve locals.” “Things are going to evolve,” she says. “I just can’t get behind changing to cater to projects and people who don’t care about preserving all the rare and special qualities that originally drew so many people to make this valley home.” “I would only want more folks to be aware that Napa is what it is today because a long history of thoughtful and talented individuals worked very hard to pave the way. This is a serious town with serious wines and it deserves that respect.” “A lot of people come here, make career changes and add so much to our community. Even though I’m not in the wine business anymore I feel like I’m still making a contribution to this community. Life coaching’s essence is helping people move on in their lives to achieve their goals. I’m so happy that I’ve become a coach and I’m achieving mine.”

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New billing for a stage star of yesterday STERLING MORRIS

Clarice Vance, 18701961, was famous singer, vaudevillian

small, moss-covered stone marked #31 in the potter’s field section of St. Helena’s historic cemetery has been replaced by a new granite marker that reads: “Clarice Vance, 1870 – 1961, American star of the Stage and Pioneer Recording Artist.” Just how the strikingly handsome and over 6-foot-tall stage star spent her last years in the Napa Valley and came to final rest in St. Helena is a story that might have inspired the song, “There’s a Broken Heart for Every Light on Broadway.” With a career that began in farce comedy in the early 1890s and gained momentum in the early 1900s as “The Southern Singer,” Vance was singing popular dialect and story songs of the day. By 1904 her name could be seen in lights and on the bills of all the major vaudeville houses across the U.S. In London in 1909 she performed at the Palace with a 40-piece orchestra and was held over for 26 weeks. In 1910 she appeared in the lavish Broadway musical “A Skylark.” Her photograph appeared on countless sheet music covers from 1897 to 1914. She recorded for Edison and Victor from 1905 to 1909. Her most requested song (which she recorded three times) was “Mariar,” written by her then-husband Mose Gumble. Others were “I’m Afraid to Come Home in the Dark,” “He’s a Cousin of Mine” (revived by Sam Cooke in 1964), and “It Looks Like a Big Night Tonight.” Her droll humor, comic timing and refined manner of delivery were her fortune on the stage 64 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Photos Courtesy Sterling Morris‌

Clarice Vance was a singer and stage star who lapsed into obscurity and was buried in a potter’s field at the St. Helena Public Cemetery.

wherever she went. Her photo graced the covers of Variety and the pages of Vanity Fair and Redbook and she had a ginbased cocktail named for her. Her marriage to Gumble in 1904, manager of the New York branch of Remick Music Publishing, was major theatrical news. The couple divorced in 1914. Where once her every move, including the theft of her jewels and the burning of her Long Island retreat, was reported in the tabloids,

including The Police Gazette, her star began to rapidly fade. An appearance at the Tivoli in San Francisco in 1921 “singing her old songs” was among her last documented theatrical engagements. This was followed by a couple of notable movie appearances. By 1930 she was out of the limelight having survived a failed business venture and the suicide of her fourth husband and was living in San Francisco working as a “dramatic coach.” From 1951

until her death in 1961, she suffered from dementia as a patient at Napa State Hospital. She died there at age 91 knowing only her name and that she was “an actress.” Upon her death, a San Francisco theatrical historian was contacted and confirmed that she was indeed “an actress” — but more than that, she had been a “star.” In the absence of friends or relatives, Actor’s Equity was then approached to assist with minimal burial costs. Renewed interest in Vance, her recordings and career has revived her name and re-established her place in American theatrical history. A CD containing all 22 of her recordings is now available accompanied by a detailed biography and rare photographs from her own theatrical scrapbooks. In addition to non-stop performing from coast to coast introducing hit after hit for over 20 years, she wrote and published songs and even wrote a stage play, “April First” that resides in the American Memories archive in the Library of Congress. During those active years, her vitality, drive and wit could best be described by the title of her amusing 1907 recording of “I’d Rather TwoStep Than Waltz, Bill.” Admirers, with the help of the St. Helena Historical Society, have now given Vance a proper headstone. In the center is a beautiful photo of her as she is best remembered. SUMMER/FALL 2021

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Drew Glassell is the executive chef at Calistoga’s Fleetwood “wood-fired good food” eatery.

Tim Carl LLC photos

Fleetwood at Calistoga Motor Lodge focuses on fire-grilled fare TIM CARL Emerging from the pandemic with a bang, Fleetwood has fast become a local favorite with visitors sure to follow. With a focused menu that centers around firegrilled items, the kitchen team has years of experience both in the culinary arts and in working in the Napa Valley. “We are focused on providing our guests an experience that exceeds their expectations and is also comfortable and fun,” said executive chef Drew Glassell (formerly of Gary Danko, Jardiniere, and Roadhouse 29). Glassell is no newcomer to the local food scene. For years he has worked

66 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

side by side with chef Douglas Keane at his Michelin-starred restaurant, Cyrus. Today Glassell, along with a collection of fine cooks and chefs, is running his own show. At the front of the house, Neil Robinson (Roadhouse 29, Fish Story Napa, Park Hyatt San Francisco) has assembled a solid crew who are experienced and able to maintain an easygoing ambiance. The new restaurant is located in the completely renovated and updated Calistoga Motor Lodge and Spa near the intersection of the Silverado Trail and Highway 29.

FIRE-GRILLED FARE FOCUS “We want to be that go-to spot where the community can pop in for [food and] a drink and catch up with a familiar face,” said Stephen Chan, co-founder and a principal at EPHP as well as a partner at SH. The entire hotel has been renovated, during which time the new 154-seat restaurant was added. The complex has a hip, retro 1970s vibe blended with a New Age feel. Guests enter the restaurant through a large lobby area. A bar area with seating features large windows that open to the outdoor dining area.

SUMMER/FALL 2021

Wood-fired pizzas at Fleetwood in Calistoga range from $16 to $19. The dough is made using a five-day process to create a layered “crispy, chewy” crust.

Fleet-wood’s menu is “wood-fired inspired” Italian/ Mediterranean wine country cuisine with a nod to locally sourced ingredients. BELOW: Fleetwood restaurant is located in the renovated Calistoga Motor Lodge and Spa near the intersection of the Silverado Trail and Highway 29.

SPRING/SUMMER 2021

Outside, are a fireplace, two hammocks, picnic tables and a nearby pool. Those amenities give a casual “hanging out by the pool” feel and provide a fun, splashy ambient background noise. The inside dining room is slightly more formal, with booths and tables and an open kitchen at the far end. Central to the menu’s “fire grilled-fare” focus, one entire wall of the restaurant is lined with two wood-fired ovens and a woodfired grill. “What sets Fleetwood apart is the combination of Drew’s culinary expertise with the relaxed environment,” Chan said. “The vibe is as though you are relaxing at a great friend’s house who happens to prepare an epic meal.” A successful new restaurant’s launch in the Napa Valley is often predicated on how the locals respond. Of course, any new place is one that curious residents explore, but if they come back that can be a very good sign. Each of the three times I’ve been to Fleetwood numerous local folks sat at the bar or ate outside or inside in both small and large groups. “There’s a good buzz happening here and the food is fantastic,” said one local who didn’t want to be identified so as not to upset the proprietors of any of her other local haunts. The menu is “wood-fired inspired” Italian/Mediterranean wine country cuisine with the obligatory nod to local farmers, vintners and locally sourced ingredients. While this might describe nearly half of the restaurants in the Napa Valley, with Glassell and team these foci take on delicious twists and turns.

FOOD AND DRINKS‌ Yes, there is a collection of woodfired pizzas that range from $16 to $19, each created using dough that has been made using a five-day process to create a layered “crispy, chewy” crust right when it comes out of the oven. A Caesar-inspired salad ($15) uses grilled romaine to give the dish a welcome smoky pop, and sheets of tissue-thin Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese wrap the salad like a toothsome and generous gift. Other bites include juicy meatballs ($14) topped with crispy little discs of cheese that provide a pop of salt and textural balance and stretchy Buffalo mozzarella with grilled peaches and sourdough bread ($16). Entrees include the Rocky Chicken Breast ($26) accompanied with a farro risotto that is crazy good, and the meat is as tender as if prepared under sous vide and then seared in a hot oven. Melt-in-your-mouth cipollino onion and simply prepared green beans make this chicken dish a hearty go-to after a long day of wine tasting. Those missing Roadhouse 29 will be happily relieved to find that a version of its hearty grilled hamburger and fries ($22) is once again available. There are also a grilled strip loin steak with gnocchi ($36) and two pasta options, agnolotti ($16) and rigatoni with chicken ($22). Two kids’ dishes, pasta and a pepperoni pizza, and two desserts, polenta Please see Fleetwood, Page 68

INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 67

Fleetwood’s meatballs are topped with crispy discs of cheese.

Neil Robinson is the restaurant manager at Calistoga’s Fleetwood “wood-fired good food” eatery.

FLEETWOOD From Page 67

cake with grilled roasted strawberries and crackly, creamy cannelloni are all $12. Only two sweet choices? Glassell hinted that more might be on the way. The wine list is small and focused on local producers who don’t make a lot of wine. “Our emphasis on local is reflected on the menu as well as our wine list,” Chan said. “Some rare local gems that are still under the radar.” I can appreciate the focus, especially at a new restaurant still trying to figure out what works, but fewer than a dozen options does seem a bit too frugal, given that there are more than 30 craft wineries almost within walking distance of the restaurant. Each wine can be purchased by the glass or bottle. By-the-glass prices range from $11 to $18, and corkage is $20 per bottle, although on Mondays this is waived for any wine coming from Napa or Sonoma. The drinks menu is lively. Robinson and his team are having some fun with options such as the Pesca Perfecto, which includes a blend of rum, peach, lemon and ginger beer topped with a “float” of dark rum. Was I surprised and delighted that it was delicious and actually paired with my salad? I was! All cocktails are $14. Fleetwood is Calistoga’s newest restaurant to hit the ground running after the lockdown was lifted. Given the team led

68 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Tim Carl LLC‌

Wood-fired pizza from Calistoga’s Fleetwood restaurant.

by Glassell and Robinson, the food and drinks program gives every other like restaurant in the Napa Valley a run for their money. I am sure they will continue to tweak things here and there, but what I hope doesn’t change is the management’s obvious commitment to hiring a solid team of experienced local professionals who have a track record for serving high-quality fare in a manner that is both welcoming and fun. And isn’t that what we all need right now? To hang out with some friends and share some delicious food and drinks without breaking the bank? I know I speak for many when I say that we hope Fleetwood continues its success and has plans to remain a part of the community for a good long time. A GROWING TREND‌ Owned by Eagle Point Hotel Partners (EPHP), the hotel and restaurant are managed by Sightline Hospitality (SH), which also manages Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort and Mineral Springs

just down the street. The co-founder of SH, Rob Kline, also co-founded Chartres Lodging (CL) that is also owner/operator of Dr. Wilkinson’s. This collection of interconnected owners and operators is interesting because it highlights a growing trend in the Napa Valley and beyond. Since the “leisure” market is widely considered a growth industry, plenty of investment groups, private equity firms and individuals with extra cash on hand (and there are a lot of them post-pandemic) are clamoring for small hotels that were (or are) underutilized or undercapitalized. This growing demand for a limited resource (only so many such hotels and motels exist) is likely to accelerate. The benefits of such ardent interest in these small, often modestly cared-for hotels of a bygone era is that a ton of money initially flows into a community when they are purchased and fixed up, and workers are hired — all intended to attract customers. A potential long-term downside is that such investors often make their real money not from operating a business but by selling it. When they do, it’s often to bigger companies, collectives or even to Wall Street, all of which entities eventually look to make big profits from their new assets. It can be a predictable cycle and one that often includes phrases like “gaining efficiencies” and “liquidating redundant assets” or “re-engineered pricing,” all of which might result in shifting money away from the very community to which they initially brought money. Do these potential downsides happen in every such situation? Absolutely not, but the risk is real. However, in the short term at the very least, these types of economic plays are

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Heavyweight champ drew thousands in 1955 CYNTHIA SWEENEY e d ito r@weekl yc a l istoga n.c om

Nephew retraces Rocky Marciano’s Upvalley training grounds It was estimated the entire town of 1,400 lined the streets and rooftops to see boxing champion Rocky Marciano ride into town in the back of a white Cadillac convertible. Marciano had been wooed to Calistoga as his training grounds for a title fight against England’s Don Cockell in San Francisco on May 16, 1955. Marciano was given royal treatment, and the story was splashed all over the front page of The Weekly Calistogan on April 7 of that year. On his way Upvalley, the champ was met at the Napa County border and given a police escort. He was presented with a key to the City of Napa, and further Upvalley, also received the key to St. Helena. Marciano arrived in Calistoga escorted by fire engines, police cars, and the state patrol, arriving at a platform built especially for the occasion in front of the Bank of America building in the center of downtown. Al Triglia, who owned The Silverado bar at the time with his brother, Louis Carlenzoli, had a large welcome sign created for the occasion, which said “To your health, Rocky,” in Italian. Marciano was also presented a key to Calistoga by Mayor Howard “Boots” Butler. Marciano’s nephew, Perry Marciano, was in Calistoga last week, retracing the steps of his famous uncle. In June, he’ll travel to Des Moines, Iowa, where his uncle died in a plane crash in 1969, one day before his 46th birthday. In Calistoga, Perry Marciano 70 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

stopped at the Sharpsteen Museum to meet local residents, including Nick Triglia, Al’s son, and Dan Bazzoli, who shared photos, stories, and recalled the whoopla surrounding the famous boxer’s training. According to accounts at the time, Marciano stayed at the Silverado Hotel at the corner of Silverado Trail and Highway 29. Part of his training included running down Silverado Trail, and also up toward Mount St. Helena to have breakfast at a restaurant called Hanley’s. Afterwards, he’d run back to town. Marciano also practiced his sparring in a ring specially built at the fairgrounds in the Tubbs building. Over the weeks, thousands of spectators came from all over northern California to fill the seats, cheering and drinking beer — “Even 1,000 people on Easter Sunday,” The Weekly Calistogan reported at the time. Indeed, there were said to be 13 bars in town at the time, and even one local bruiser was said to have gone a few rounds with the champ in the fairgrounds ring. The town also gave Marciano boxing shorts and a robe bearing the town’s name, Calistoga. He wore the robe at the fight in San Francisco, and gave the trunks to Al Triglia after the fight. Triglia had them framed and hung in the bar. Perry Marciano recalls his uncle as an easy-going type, and also a “mover and shaker. He was everywhere. But he always had time for family. He was a gentleman and a sportsman. Back then, boxing was a gentlemanly sport.” Marciano’s father, Sonny, was the champ’s brother. He also recalled people coming and going all the time at his uncle’s house,

STF‌

World heavyweight champion Rocky Marciano posed specially for this photo at his training camp in Calistoga, California, on May 10, 1955. (AP Photo)

Cynthia Sweeney, Weekly Calistogan‌

Rocky Marciano’s nephew, Perry Marciano, left, stopped by Calistoga’s Sharpsteen Museum to meet with local residents, including Nick Triglia, who shared photos, stories, and recalled the hoopla surrounding the boxer’s training in Calistoga.

shaking his hand telling stories. “He would take time for anybody.” Marciano said his uncle never talked badly about another opponent. “He had a classy was of dealing with stuff. But still, “It was a different story when he was in the ring.” Marciano also recalled, as a youngster, running a 16mm projector, showing films of his uncle’s bouts to crowds of family and friends.

“They were sitting around eating pasta and cheering, just like it was happening live,” he said. After his training in Calistoga, Marciano defeated Don Cockell at Kezar Stadium in San Francisco. After going nine rounds, Marciano kept his title via a TKO when the referee stopped the bout. You can reach Cynthia Sweeney at 942-4035 or csweeney@ weeklycalistogan.com. SUMMER/FALL 2021

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Turning

THE TIDE Napa Valley’s Alisa Jacobson TIM CARL

Alisa Jacobson, owner and winemaker at Turning Tide wines, can often be found paddleboarding at Refugio Beach in Goleta, Santa Barbra County. Tim Carl LLC PHOTOS‌

72 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

ver the last two decades Alisa Jacobson has been a Napa Valley-based winemaker. She was the first employee of Joel Gott Wines, where she shepherded its winemaking production from 1,000 cases per year to more than a million. She has been one of the valley’s leading innovators, leveraging technology, new techniques, dogged determination and hard work to craft wines of distinction through rapid growth, fires, drought and labor shortages. Now she is leaving the Napa Valley and setting out on a new journey, launching her own brand — Turning Tide Wines — and operating under a new mantra. She’s plans to dedicate more time to her own brand and to spend more time farming her own vineyards in Oregon and Southern California. “The primary focus of Turning Tide Wines is sustainability,” she said. “Yes, quality is a must — if it’s not good no one will drink it — but it has to go farther than that.” Jacobson says she is excited to make wines from grape-growing regions where yearly fires, water use and extreme prices are not constant threats. Her new brand has at its core the idea that even a small wine company can lead changes that are not only positive for the wine industry but also good for the planet.

“I see an industry that is changing but too slowly,” she said. “We can do more and faster to ensure better environmental practices and also greater equality.” BORN CONNECTED TO LAND AND WATER‌ Jacobson grew up surrounded by farms in Brentwood, California. Although her parents were not full-time farmers — her mother is a retired teacher and her father is a retired electrical engineer who worked at Teradyne — they did have a small orchard of cherry trees. While other children might have run a lemonade stand growing up, Jacobson operated a small cherry stand. She also helped in the family’s vegetable garden and was an active member of 4-H, raising hogs and lambs to show at the summer fair. Farming in “old school” methods — using the Farmer’s Almanac, planting and harvesting based on the weather, following the moon and natural cycles and using only organic techniques — just seemed right to Jacobson. “We are all intimately connected to the land and water, and how we treat our crops and livestock matters,” she said. “It not only matters for the end product, but without understanding these connections we do ourselves a disservice in the long run.” Jacobson does not eat meat SUMMER/FALL 2021

because, as she explains, “If I didn’t raise it, then how could I know how the animal was treated and fed?” As a child she spent time with her family exploring the Northern California coast. Her grandparents — her grandmother Irene in particular — were big influences. “We’d go out to Mendocino, and before sunrise we’d head out to dive for shellfish. She [my grandmother] was right there, too.” Jacobson said. “Even though she had a fear of swimming, at the age of 60 she actually learned to swim.” Irene was tough yet wise, and her love of the ocean spilled over. On those mornings they’d sit together on the beach, cleaning their catch before grilling it up for breakfast. “She taught me to be brave and resilient — to be honest, hardworking and never give up,” Jacobson said. Ever since those days, Jacobson has been drawn back to the ocean. Now, not as a collector of crustaceans, but instead as an avid scuba diver and paddleboard enthusiast.

the grapes were picked before school started back up again. “Working those summers at the wineries helped focus my studies back at school,” she said. “I knew what I wanted to learn and why.” Tim Carl LLC‌

Alisa Jacobson, owner and winemaker at Turning Tide wines, at her vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley

HOGS TO WINE‌ After high school Jacobson headed to UC Davis, where she intended to study animal science. Holding fast to her farming roots, she’d wake before sunrise to help muck the hog stalls at the university’s small farm. “My friends would tease me and ask why I was doing it,” she said, “but that’s just me. I like to be involved. Besides, to be comfortable and competent in a task it’s important to understand the entire process. If not, how will you know how to tweak something if it goes wrong?” Like many attending UC Davis — one of the world’s leading wine-growing/making universities

— Jacobson was seduced by the lure of wine. Growing a crop that might be transformed into a product so heavily influenced by the quality of the farming, the yearly fluctuations in weather and the winemaker herself seemed like a challenge she was made for. “It just seemed to click,” she said. “Skilled farming, innovation, quality winemaking and a lot of hard work come together and produce a wine that is essentially a time capsule not only of that vintage, but also everything that goes into it.” Shifting from hogs to wineries, Jacobson spent her summers interning at sparkling wine producers such as Korbel and Schramsberg, where

BUILDING A BRAND FROM 1,000 CASES TO WELL OVER A MILLION‌ After graduating from college she was hired at Joseph Phelps Winery, interned in the off season in Australia and gained a reputation for her hard work, precision, ambition and infectious laugh. While she was at Joseph Phelps, she worked under head winemaker Sarah Gott, and two years later she was hired to make the wine at a fledgling wine startup that would eventually evolve into Joel Gott Wines. Jacobson was the Joel Gott company’s first employee, and she later rose to vice president of winemaking, overseeing a team of 35, more than half of them women. She said Please see Jacobson, Page 74

PREVENT MOSQUITOES Manage THe WaTer In anD arOUnD YOUr HOMe

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INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 73

“This gives the wine a more natural shift in pH and can be done by using charged resins,” From Page 73 she said. “It’s pretty cool what you can do with science and growing a brand to more than 1.4 technology.” million cases has been a combination of excitement and mind-bog- TURNING THE TIDE‌ gling complexity. In August Jacobson will offi“Having amazing mentors cially depart the company she including Heidi Barrett and Randy helped to create. Mason, and being inquisitive and “We all grew up in the busiobservant have gotten me a long ness together and the last 18 way — I also love experiments,” she years have been a whirlwind,” said. “Looking for vineyards in areas Joel Gott said. “She has been that were lesser-known but still also amazing to work with over all quite good and finding grower part- these years and we are super ners who were farming high-qual- excited for her next chapter.” ity and outside of the Napa Valley “I grew up in the company and

JACOBSON

Tim Carl LLC‌

Winemaker Alisa Jacobson is leaving Napa Valley, after two decades, to concentrate on her vineyards in Oregon and Southern California and on her brand, Turning the Tide.

allowed us to grow but also keep the prices down.” Examples of experiments included maintaining Sauvignon Blanc aromatics by fermenting it at low temperatures using cold-tolerant yeast strains. She also found that wines needing more brightness actually benefited more and retained better balance if she removed potassium rather than adding tartaric acid. 74 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

learned a ton along the way,” Jacobson said. “But I felt like it was time for me to take what I had learned and apply it to something new. I want to focus on organics and sustainability and forge a path for our industry to help with climate change, support groups like the West Coast Smoke Task Force and dedicate myself to improving the world’s oceans.” Turning Tide wines are sourced

from organic vineyards, and the packaging uses lightweight bottles and recyclable caps and includes labels that are made with compostable ink. A portion of the proceeds from each bottle sold goes to help free our oceans of plastic waste through the Wine to Water organization. The company is also dedicated to equitable hiring that promotes gender and racial equality.

cherry, sautéed lobster mushroom with shallots and sage, and spices such as nutmeg, cinnamon and clove. This would pair beautifully with mushroom risotto. This wine is possibly my favorite given this time of year. The Santa Ynez Red Blend with its combination of Tempranillo and Grenache speaks to its Spanish roots. This is a delicious wine full of classic flavors of red cherry, tobacco THE WINES OF TURNING and raisin, but it also carries with it a TIDE‌ bright acidity that screams of being I have tasted four of Jacobson’s paired with savory-spicy paella. wines: the 2019 Santa Rita Hills Santa Barbra County Chardonnay A PATH FORWARD‌ ($29.99 a bottle, 234 cases made); Jacobson has moved on from 2020 Santa Ynez Valley white the Napa Valley, which is likely blend ($19.99 a bottle, 440 cases to mourn her loss. Her expertise, made); the 2018 Pinot Noir from enthusiasm and innovation have Eola-Amity Hills Oregon ($42 a advanced the science of winemakbottle, 121 cases made) and the ing, and her sense of humor, dedica2020 Santa Ynez Valley Red Blend tion to fairness and work ethic have ($24.99 a bottle, 158 cases made). provided motivation and direction Each wine is bright and to those who follow. extremely aromatic. These are lovely, “I want to give a shout-out to expressive wines that speak to a life- Sarah and Joel Gott for giving me time of making distinct wines that the opportunity, freedom and flexigo with food and life. There is not bility to find my path,” she said. “I one wine that I would not gleefully am now honored with the opporshare with friends and family, and tunity to help others (including the price points make each offer- many young women) along the way ing accessible. These are wines that to help find their confidence, and you might expect at two or three teach and encourage their self-extimes the price points, if not more. pression.” Another interesting element to We stood on the beach as Jacobeach of these wines is that they all son readied her paddleboard for an have an ocean element that I find early morning ride. The sun was enthralling and at times perplexing, just rising, and the clouds glowed as in, where did that complexity orange, gold and purple in the come from? early morning light. Around us The Santa Rita Hills chardonnay gulls called and the smells of salty is straw-gold in the glass with aro- seaweed and surf perfumed the air. mas of mango, pineapple and lemon “What are my wishes for the rind. The mouth mirrors the nose future of the wine industry?” but with a salinity that pleasantly she asked rhetorically and then blends with hazelnut and mint. answered: “Provide an equal opporThink grilled plank-roasted salmon tunity for a diversity of men and with grilled pears and lemon. women of all races. We should all The white blend, a co-fermenta- farm more sustainably and stop tion of Verdelho and Chenin Blanc, extracting excessive ground water, is stunning and steely yet silky. cease using harmful pesticides and What a wonderful combination, herbicides that harm the natural full of citrus, sweet cantaloupe and flora of the vineyard and soil (and to tender green herbs such as chervil, prevent it from running off into the with a minerality that speaks to oys- water), and take regenerative steps ters with peppery mignonette or a to capture carbon. We can do this.” squeeze of lime and hot sauce. She paused, and then said The Pinot Noir is a creamy thoughtfully, amalgamation of sun-dried black “We have to do this.” SUMMER/FALL 2021

Keeping You In Hot Water Since 1976

Mariana Calderon Photography‌

Tomato pizza with garlic and oregano is on the menu at North Block restaurant in Yountville, which will be included in the 2021 Micheline guide.

Napa Valley Hot Tubs is your source for Artesian Spas, Big Green Egg, Green Mountain Grills, and Teak Outdoor Furniture by

Michelin’s chooses NORTH BLOCK Michelin adds Yountville’s North Block to its list‌ S A S H A PAU L S E N Yountville’s North Block restaurant is among the 10 new additions to the 2021 Michelin Guide California selection. It is the only one from Napa County added in 2021. The additions were announced as a lead up to the 2021 Michelin Guide California Bib Gourmand and Star announcements in late September. Two alumni of the Momofuku group of Asian-American fusion restaurants opened North Block last spring in the former Redd Wood space, now part of the North Block hotel (formerly Hotel Lucca.) Nick Tamburo, a former sous chef at Momofuku Ko and executive chef at Momofuku Nishi in Manhattan took charge of SUMMER/FALL 2021

the kitchen, while Andy Wedge, of Momofuku and Husk Nashville, is general manager and oversees the beverage program. No r t h Bl o c k , a t 6 7 5 7 Washington St., in Yountville, continues to serve wood-fired pizzas in addition to an inventive menu that spotlights local products. The Michelin announcement reads, “Chef Nick Tamburo had big shoes to fill following the closure of longtime favorite, Redd Wood, but he’s made it look effortless. Start with thin slivers of kampachi garnished with preserved perilla or swipe large corn and nori fritters through a cloud-like mousse of corn studded with trout roe. Wood-fired pizzas are a nod to the previous tenant.”

2746 Jefferson St, Napa 707-252-2441 napavalleyhottubs.com INSIDE NAPA VALLEY | 75

Submitted photo‌

Michael Byrnes stands in front of the house he built by himself on McCorkle Avenue.

Man builds house

BY HIMSELF J E S S E D UA RT E jd u a r te@sthel enastar.c om

Builder perseveres amid years of adversity Construction projects tend to be drawn out and full of unpleasant surprises, but Michael Byrnes’ St. Helena dream house set a new bar. He lost his mother, his construction loan was almost canceled, he caught a nasty case of COVID-19, he suffered two potentially life-threatening falls, construction took more than two years, and he had to do most of the work by himself. Byrnes says if he’d known what an ordeal it was going to be, his reaction would have been, “Yeah right, I’m out of here.” However, he overcame every obstacle one by one and is now proudly living in the house with his wife, Shavonna Kelley. Byrnes bought the small lot at the end of McCorkle Avenue in 2018. He secured Planning Commission approval to demolish the existing house and replace it with a 1,372-square-foot house of his own design. 76 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Submitted photo‌

Michael Byrnes works on the framing of his house on McCorkle Avenue.

Byrnes has an extensive background in architecture, carpentry, construction management, financial consultancy for contractors, and design/build contracting. His goal was to design a modest farmhouse — no garage — that would fit into the surrounding neighborhood so neatly that it could pass for a remodel instead of a new house. After demolishing the old house and laying the foundation for the new one in July 2019, he got word that his mother in

New York was dying. He drove across the country to say goodbye and get her affairs in order, then returned to the Bay Area “grief-stricken and clearly not playing with all my marbles,” as he recalls. “There’d been no sign that she was in decline, just all of a sudden — uh oh, she has five days to live,” he said. The bad news kept coming. Byrnes’ beloved cat Miles died. His car was totaled in an accident. A noxious plume from the Kincade Fire in Sonoma County settled over St. Helena, which was hit by scattered power outages. January rainfall made it difficult to start the framing. Meanwhile a South Bay business associate he’d been counting on to help him with construction, based on favors Byrnes had previously done for him, backed out, Byrnes said. “So then I was like, ‘All right, I’ll do it myself,’” Byrnes said. And so he did, with assistance from neighbors like John Yates, who helped with some of the larger trusses, Said Nuseibeh, who lent tools, and retired firefighter Brian Streblow, who was walking his dogs in the area when he saw Byrnes struggling to lift some beams. Byrnes said he’s grateful to all of his neighbors for tolerating years of construction. Byrnes had done framing in college, and he was quite familiar with the project plans, having drawn them himself. However, California’s building code is highly demanding — “there’s 10,000 nails in that little house,” Byrnes said — and framing is typically handled by an entire team, not one guy. “It got to where I couldn’t open my hands in the morning,” he said. “I felt like I was out of my league.” Byrnes completed the framing, roofing, windows and half of the siding by himself. He said it was “backbreaking” work — almost literally, on the two occasions he fell from the structure. He credits his martial arts training with teaching him how to fall without

serious injury. Financing presented another challenge. The price of construction materials rose during the pandemic, so Byrnes’ lumber budget, not including trusses, jumped from $27,000 to $38,000. In early 2020, Byrnes’ lender announced it was recalling its construction loan, including his. Byrnes pleaded with his loan officer. Impressed by Byrnes’ quixotic one-man construction project, the loan officer took pity and agreed not to call the loan — as long as Byrnes kept working by himself. The pandemic reared its ugly head again in December, when Byrnes came down with COVID-19. “I went down really hard. I couldn’t even stand up,” he said. “I couldn’t eat. I couldn’t drink. I couldn’t even listen to people because it gave me some sort of vertigo.” He wanted to go to the hospital, but he couldn’t be admitted unless his blood oxygen level fell to 89. It was at 92. It took weeks for him to regain his strength and get back to work in February. After a final round of inspections, the house received a certificate of occupancy on May 25. The house has a number of details that have great personal significance to Byrnes, including some wisterias he’s planting as a shrine to his late mother. He and Kelley will rent out the house and move in permanently when they retire, but he vows never to sell it. “Building a house by yourself means you can put a lot of love into it,” Byrnes said. “There are so many things about it that connect to my past or give honor and thanks to the people who trained me. Other people won’t see it, but I know it’s there. “In that sense, it’s probably the most meaningful thing I’ve done in my entire life.” You can reach Jesse Duarte at 967-6803 or jduarte@sthelenastar.com. SUMMER/FALL 2021

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Samantha Sheehan’s adventures in winemaking inspired her mother, Linda, to write a novel, “Decanted.” Nicola Parisi‌

A mother, daughter and a lot of grapes K AT H L E E N R E Y N O L D S

One woman’s winemaking experiences inspires Mom to write a novel

inda Sheehan is the first to tell you that when she started writing “Decanted,” she didn’t know much about wine. “My daughter Samantha is the owner and winemaker of Poe Wines and my son Trevor is a wine collector, owner and vintner of Precision Wines,” Sheehan said. “I learned about natural wines, what additives do, single vintages and the different grapes from them. Everything I wrote about in the book, I ran by them first for accuracy.” “Decanted” started out as a memoir for her daughter before Sheehan switched over to a novel. The only hint of the book being changed to fiction is that it’s written in the first person. “A lot of the winery incidents in the book are based on what happened to my daughter when she was first learning about winemaking,” she said. “Decanted” tells the story of 78 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

a young woman, aptly named Samantha, who chucks her Big 5 accounting job to work the wine harvest in France. It deftly interweaves the modern-day narrative with the story of her mentor, Aunt Vivian, an American in Paris in the early days of World War II. Flashback scenes centering on Aunt Vivian flesh out the character and give readers insight into the decisions both she and her niece make for their lives. In the late 1930s, the sense of drama builds as Hitler prepares to invade France. Vivian is close to a longsought career in the Parisian fashion world, but is she prepared to shelve all the groundwork she’s done to flee from possible danger? It is from Vivian that Samantha inherits her work ethic, her optimism, grit and instinct for sensing when the grapes are at their peak. Artfully, the reader learns the craft of winemaking through Samantha’s wine education. “I wanted to add a lot of fun knowledge to make it interesting, without making it a study guide,” Sheehan said. “The world of wine can be an intimidating

subject for a lot of people.” The book contrasts the OldWorld style versus the New World way of winemaking: stainless steel versus wood and low yield versus high revenue. As the fictional Samantha learns about wine, she’s also introduced to romance. Is she naïve, falling for a man who may be unfaithful? The book is categorized as women’s fiction, with sensual scenes played against the backdrop of the French countryside. The scenes add texture to a sense of place and character development. Sheehan skillfully captures the sense of light, scents and sounds of France, whether in a dark, mushroom-laden wine cellar or at a sumptuous harvest feast. The reader feels a part of the action from the sweat, dust and heat of working the vineyards to an elegant dinner with prestigious guests. “Decanted” is also the story of wine sellers, wine moguls and the winemakers forced to compromise on quality to receive high scores from critics. When the plot moves to Napa, it’s a fun ride recognizing local spots and guessing which real-life winemakers are fictionalized. “Is that supposed to be — ?” is an enjoyable guessing game when the Napa Valley characters appear. Sheehan relieves tension with humorous scenes, mostly surrounding Samantha’s battling parents, who have taken their

mid-life crises to a new level. Samantha labors to make her dreams a reality when disaster, literally and figuratively, strikes. Naming the fictionalized wines in the book was an unexpected challenge for Linda. “It seems every name is taken,” explained Sheehan. “My daughter was happy to allow me to use the name of one of her actual brands, Ultraviolet. We had the trademark on that name, so we were safe to use it.” Another absorbing and well-researched aspect of the novel is the care taken to protect art from counterfeiting, whether it be paintings, labels or the wine itself. What is the providence of the old wine in your cellar — is it worth $50 a bottle or $10,000? Sheehan started her road to a writing career working for CBS Entertainment in New York as producer of late-night movie programming. She moved to Los Angeles and wrote trailers for movies and television shows. “Sometimes the movies were pre-sold before completion and there was no actual footage available,” she said with a chuckle. “I’d have to make do with existing images and often had the celebrities from the films discuss their involvement in lieu of video.” Sheehan moved to Napa 10 years ago. When she’s not writing, she enjoys riding her horse Valentino, an 18-year-old warmblood who specializes in jumping. Her other passion is golf, which she plays with gusto at Silverado. Her knowledge on the links has helped for her next novel, “Fore Play,” a comedy set at a Southern California country club. It will be available later this summer. Between novels and her hobbies, Linda made time to write an original television show currently being shopped around Hollywood by a former producer of “Mad About You.” Titled “Wine and Spirits,” it follows the theme of a woman thrust into the unanticipated role of winemaker. SUMMER/FALL 2021

A R T I S A N K N I V E S I N N A PA VA L L E Y The Cadillac of its Kind.

Stop by and learn how to throw a tomahawk! We sharpen knives. | 1380 Main Street, St. Helena 707-244-5188 | newwestknifeworks.com

Helping Napa guys look good Williamson & Company perseveres amidst fashion changes, moves and pandemic Israel Valencia of Infinity Visuals‌

CRAIG SMITH f o r t he Register

Jay Williamson, owner of Williamson & Company. The store has been in Napa since 1975 and is now at 1144 Main St.

f anybody understands men’s apparel, it’s Jay Williamson, owner of Williamson & Company, the store his father opened in 1975. Since it opened, a lot of things have changed in the menswear world, from what men wear to how they buy. One constant? A lot of men just don’t like to shop. “A lot of customers originally come to us because they don’t have to leave town, but our reputation depends on how comfortable guys feel while they’re here and how they look when they leave,” Jay Williamson said. “We are extremely soft-sell. If you don’t look good in something, we’ll tell you. We are definitely a local’s store and depend on word-ofmouth referrals, so we have to be good.” While Williamson’s core customers have historically been men in their thirties to sixties, the store carries a number of lines that Williamson said skew younger. “We carry a ton of Kuhl, which caters to all ages, as well as Johnnie O, 7 Diamonds, Olukai and Joes on the Nose. Conversely, we sell a lot of Jack Victor sports coats and slacks when dressing more formally is called for.” Williamson said he likes to bring in a couple of new lines every season, to give the store a fresh look, but will only do so if it’s a quality line. “We stay away from things that will only last one season.” He wants his inventory to be perfect but realizes that that’s like chasing the wind. “We keep working the inventory, trying to be completely satisfied, but of course we never are.” Williamson & Company is also the place for tuxedos and suit rentals, an area of the business that is starting to return. “Proms and weddings were pretty much non-existent last year, but they are coming back.” Many of the weddings planned for this year are smaller than in year’s past. “Just another example of change,” said Williams, a smile on his face. 80 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Jennifer Huffman, Register‌

Williamson & Company is located on Main Street in downtown Napa.

Craig Williamson was the director of golf at Silverado Country Club. When he left, he took his inventory, from golf clothing and accessories for men and women, plus a few sportscoats, and with his partner Jack Doshier opened his store as one of the original tenants in the Grapeyard Shopping Center. When the golf-related items were gone, he began selling clothes for the working professional, eventually with an inventory of 300 suits. He opened a second store in St. Helena, but closed it Christmas Eve, 1993, to concentrate on the Napa location. Son Jay left Napa for college, settling in the East Bay where he managed a Gap Store. He moved back to Napa and went to work at the store in 1994. In 1995, his dad’s partner had a heart attack, and Jay took over day-to-day operations. He bought the store in 2003, changed the name, dropping “Craig” to make it “Williamson & Company,” and moved it to Downtown Napa the same year (he was the last original tenant in the Grapeyard, said Jay). By that point, men’s fashion had begun to change in many ways. “In the early 2000s, men began to wear Tommy Bahama and could leave their shirttails out.” For a few years, the island look was the rage, and Williamson carried the whole line. “Most businesses adopted casual Friday’s. By

the time we moved downtown we were down to 100 suits.” That had a domino effect. “Less suits means less ties and dress shirts.” Ye, sport coats remain strong, as well as shirts with fun patterns. Williamson & Company still carries a good selection of tropical wear, as well as shoes, jeans, casual and dress slacks, belts, socks, underwear– everything you would expect in a quality men’s shop. Also changed over the years is the way people shop. Prior to the Great Recession, people’s shopping patterns were predictable. Businesses could count on a certain percentage of business coming on Wednesday, for example, and could schedule staff accordingly. “Now we take it day-to-day. We may have a slow Saturday, and a really busy Wednesday morning.” Part of that may be due to the increasing number of mid-week visitors Napa gets, which allows Williamson & Company to bring in a different inventory mix. “More foot traffic allows us to bring in a greater selection, which benefits our locals.” And while Napa has always been a good place to do business, it gets better all the time. “It’s good to be in a town where things are moving forward. Napa is not a stagnant town. There are new stores opening all the time.” Williamson still enjoys retail and would encourage anyone who is interested in getting into the business to do so, carefully. “You need to find your niche, something you love, and keep expenses down until you are established.” From the looks of things, people are following that advice. “There are really good shops opening up downtown. Retail here gets better and better.” Williamson & Company is at 1144 Main St., and is open daily. Stop in – you’ll probably walk out looking better. You can reach reporter Jennifer Huffman at 256-2218 or jhuffman@napanews.com SUMMER/FALL 2021

Bald eagles are one of many raptors who live in Napa County. Angela Cistone Zierenberg

Wildlife

OF NAPA VALLEY ANGELA CISTONE ZIERENBERG

Birds, bears, bobcats and more With its diverse landscape, Napa County and its surrounding areas are rich with an abundance of wildlife. If you are lucky enough to live here or you’re just visiting, you don’t have to venture far to see a wide variety of mammals and birds. Napa is located along the Pacific Flyway, a migratory bird path that extends from Mexico to Canada, bringing thousands of birds to the county every year. From the San Francisco Bay Delta estuary to the marshlands and riparian corridors, the mixture of biological regions here in the valley attracts songbirds, shorebirds, and SUMMER/FALL 2021

raptors. Napa’s Lake Berryessa is just a 30-minute drive northeast and is a raptor haven. This massive body of water is surrounded by a mixture of conifers, oaks, open grasslands, and rocky outcrops. The habitats are home to bald eagles, golden eagles, osprey, peregrine falcons, prairie falcons, northern harriers, American kestrels, and burrowing owls. As you drive around the lake, there are several places available to park and view wildlife. Pack a lunch and don’t forget your binoculars. You may get lucky and spot a mammal or two, perhaps a crafty gray fox or even a stealthy bobcat. If water birds are your thing, take a 20-minute drive

south to the American Canyon Wetlands. Here you will be able to view a plethora of ducks, shorebirds, egrets, and herons. The habitat at the wetlands varies from grasslands to freshwater ponds, saltwater ponds, and pickleweed marsh. According to an online bird sighting database, eBird.org, more than 200 different species of birds have been sighted at this hotspot already in 2021. You will

Playful river otters can often be seen in the American Canyon Wetlands. sierra cistone

LEFT: Deer and their offspring can be seen throughout Napa County. BELOW: A gray fox, at home in the Napa hills. Jon Johnston photos

Please see Wildlife, Page 82 | 81

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WILDLIFE

82 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

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Napa Valley’s BottleVin A N N E WA R D E R N S T

Where wine meets technology

hen the pandemic struck and wineries and other businesses scrambled to provide services that didn’t require touching surfaces, QR codes snapped to attention and became the popular girl in the room. (QR codes are those square black and white bar codes, readable with your smartphone.) But a couple of local guys who started BottleVin were ahead of the curve and already on the mark, set to go with QR codes and more, with a dynamic tool for wineries and wine lovers that can connect, engage, educate, entertain, and nurture relationships, all through a smartphone and the smarts behind BottleVin. “For small wineries that do not have huge marketing budgets, word of mouth is the next best way,” said Steve Reynolds of Reynolds Family Winery on Silverado Trail near Napa. “Having our message directly in the hands of the customers is a tremendous step in equaling the playing field for the little guy.” BottleVin is the vehicle behind the messaging and supports QR, NFC, and UPC codes as well as label recognition. It is the brainchild of St. Helena native Paul Salcedo, who earned some food and wine chops in Calistoga and other Napa Valley restaurants, and another guy, Jason Driver, whose grandparents lived in the Napa Valley, where he spent a good deal of time growing up. The co-founders of BottleVin met several years ago while working at Bosko’s in Calistoga. Salcedo left Napa Valley for Silicon Valley to pursue his other love, technology, and Driver, who was born in Mountain View and has lived in Hawaii and the Midwest, 84 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Paul Salcedo, left, and Jason Driver, are the cofounders of BottleVin.

pursued his interests in food. Their mutual interests of food, wine and technology intersect in BottleVin. Growing up in St. Helena, Salcedo was raised around the wine industry. His neighbor was Ken Robison, winemaker for Franciscan, Piña Cellars, and Pope Valley Winery, who taught him how to smell, taste and appreciate wine. “He was like a second father to me,” Salcedo said, recalling that he got help with math education in the Robison household. Robison instilled in Salcedo an appreciation for what goes into wine; the dedication to the land and craft of winemaking; the savoring of a vintage and understanding of how the wine was crafted; difficulties of winemaking and making a business of it. “I knew that at some time the food and wine and technology would come together,” Salcedo said of his professional pursuits.

And that’s exactly what BottleVin is, a combination of wine and technology. It is a platform that is at once useful to the consumer and the winery owner. Wine lovers, or even the occasional wine sipper, will find BottleVin’s platform helpful in selecting a wine that will pair with the meal they are ordering at their favorite restaurant, for example. Or, if a home chef is preparing a meal for a special occasion, BottleVin can help with wine and food pairings, and with finding specific recipes that are created to go with a favorite winery’s bottle of wine. Basically, BottleVin is a technological way for wineries to talk to and engage their customers, Salcedo said. BottleVin is constantly evolving and finding new ways for wineries, which are the company’s target business, or “partner,” as Salcedo refers to them, to digitally communicate

BottleVin‌

with clientele. And it’s all done using a smartphone’s camera that reads a QR or NFC code. With just a tap of the phone, the codes set up by BottleVin are dynamic and can whisk away the viewer to see myriad details about the wine. The story of the wine in the bottle is at the fingertips of the smartphone user. Early adopters such as Reynolds Family Winery and Bricoleur Vineyards are supporters of the concept and embrace the many opportunities BottleVin’s platform offers them to engage with their wine club members, occasional buyers, and would-be tasters. “We learned a lot working as a team on what this needed to be for the ‘wine world’ and its customers,” Reynolds said. “The one key mission statement was: ‘Every bottle has a story that needs to be told.’ BottleVin is revolutionary for ‘farm to table’ or grape to table SUMMER/FALL 2021

as this would be.” There are lot of wine choices out there and small wineries have to compete against the name recognition of big corporations. It’s difficult to stand out in a wine shop surrounded by dozens of other great wines. BottleVin gives wineries an opportunity to make a connection by providing the consumer an opportunity to learn more about the grapes, vineyard, agricultural practices, flavor profile, and whatever else the winery wants to communicate. Through the customized codes a consumer can view a video of the winemaker talking about the vintage of the wine a consumer is holding in their hand. At a restaurant, a bottle of wine with a BottleVin code can help a diner decide which wine will please their palate best based on the meal they’ve ordered. Some wine bottle labels have a description of what the wine inside tastes like, or where the grapes were grown, or how the

BottleVin‌

Reynolds Family Winery labels on a bottling line display the BottleVin logo, an indication that a smartphone camera can be used to scan the label image and get access to the story behind the wine and winery.

wine was produced, but the space there is limited. “You can only fit so much on the back of the bottle,” Salcedo said. Imagine planning a special dinner and going to the wine cellar to select the perfect bottle of wine to serve your sweetie on your anniversary. In the cellar are some Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons that are always going to be good, but wines have personalities that evolve as they age and

a wine opened today might taste differently than it would have tasted opened a year earlier, or a year later. Winemakers taste their wines in bottle as they age and take notes along the way. Through BottleVin, the winemaker can convey that information to anyone who is cellaring a bottle of their wine by uploading their notes to BottleVin. The consumer taps their phone to their bottle and learns that the wine is reaching its peak;

time to pop it open and drink it now. Or, the winemaker might say it could lay down another five years, so put that one back on the shelf and reach for a different vintage. BottleVin can give you “all the cool geeky stuff ” about the wine, too, that you might find on a tech sheet, Salcedo said. And that geeky stuff works both ways. Wineries are able to track data attached to their bottles giving sales and marketing teams the ability to analyze and measure a campaign, he said. “We love that BottleVin educates our customers on our winemaking practices, tasting notes, and more with a simple tap to our wines,” said Mark Hanson, founder and CEO of Bricoleur. “BottleVin keeps our information relevant, up-to-date, and is easy for our customers to access. We are excited about this partnership and believe that this will be an amazing sales tool for us in and out of our tasting room.”

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VINYL

MAKES A COMEBACK RIGHT: Tim Leonard just opened a vinyl record store at 2375 California Blvd. in Napa called Right On !!! Records. TOP: Right On !!! Records just opened on California Boulevard in Napa. Jennifer Huffmanphotos, Register ‌

86 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Napa has a dedicated record store for the first time in 20 years JENNIFER HUFFMAN j huf f man@nap ane w s . co m

s a kid, Tim Leonard fell in love with music and vinyl records. In fact, he still has his favorite LPs, bought back when he was in junior high, like the Rolling Stones and the Kinks. “Music has always been a part of my life,” said Leonard, who is 61. “I’m passionate about it.” Today, Leonard has more than 1,200 vinyl records in his personal collection. And now he’s spinning his passion in a new direction. Leonard just opened a vinyl record store at 2375 California Blvd. in Napa. Called Right On !!! Records, it’s the first such standalone retailer to open in Napa in more than 20 years. This new small business owner said he was inspired to start Right On !!! Records after Please see Records, Page 88

SUMMER/FALL 2021

Jennifer Huffman, Register‌

Tim Leonard just opened a vinyl record store at 2375 California Blvd. in Napa. Called Right On !!! Records, it’s the first such standalone record retailer to open in Napa in more than 20 years. That’s customer Scott Yeager that Leonard is talking with. Jennifer Huffman, Register‌

Right On !!! Records, 2375 California Blvd., in Napa.

RECORDS From Page 86

being out of work for several months during the COVID-19 pandemic. He had a job in the wine industry, but “I got burnt out,” said Leonard. During the pandemic, “I just reassessed my life and what would make me happy.” Music was the answer. After a lengthy search for the right space, Right On !!! Records officially opened on June 4. Located at the site of a former Great Clips hair salon, his shop is adjacent to a Lucky grocery store. “I’m very excited for this new chapter in my life,” said Leonard. “I’m really happy to be here.” His opening weekend was a success, said Leonard. Several hundred records were purchased. In fact, he sold so many albums, he’s headed to a source in San Jose this week to buy more inventory. “People are clamoring for something like this” in Napa, he said. “There’s definitely a need.” Leonard said his shop currently has around 1,000 LPs, 2,000 CDs, and 1,200 single records for sale. Categories include rock, soul, R&B, country, folk, classical, jazz, and more. He even has some rare vinyl records from artists like Miles Davis, John Coltrane, Jimi Hendrix, and Neil Young, for example.

88 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

If you go: Right On !!! Records 2375 California Blvd. Suite A, Napa 707-224-4050 rightonnapa.com Open Tues. to Sun. 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

On !!! Records were Scott Yeager of Napa. “I’m happy the store is here,” said Yeager. “I like the whole atmosphere. It’s welcoming” and has a good collection of albums, he said. Yeager has already sold and traded music at the store and purchased albums: one by Tom Waits and one by Rainbow (a British rock band). According to the Recording Industry Association of America, in 2020 — and for the first time since 1986 — revenues from vinyl records were larger than from CDs. “Despite the challenges to retail sales from COVID-19 restrictions, vinyl grew 28.7% by value year-over-year to $626 million, though still only account for 5.2% of total revenues by value. Revenues from CDs declined 23% to $483 million, continuing a long-term decline,” said the report. Those statistics are encouraging, Leonard said. “I think the timing is right” for his new business. Nostalgia is one big reason for the renewed interest, he said. “You’re actually holding something tangible,” not a digital music file. When you play a record, “you reminisce about a time and place in your life. There’s an emotional connection to the music” and the time it comes from. Yet, Leonard remains realistic about his business prospects. “I have no delusions of becoming filthy rich” from owning an independent record store, he admitted. He is already enjoying his new career. “What a nice lifestyle, sitting around listening to records.”

Not every album is used, he noted. About 5% of his stock is brand new vinyl LPs from artists including Lloyd Cole, Big Star, Keith Urban, the Eagles, Alicia Keys, and Olivia O’Brien, who is from Napa. Album prices range from $1 to as high as $350, but most records fall in the $15 to $30 range. “That’s the sweet spot,” he noted. All the used records (except those priced $1) are individually inspected and cleaned, he said. Besides music, the store also sells some stereo equipment such as Bluetooth turntables and plans to host musicians and other music-related events or gatherings. A turntable “listening station” allows a shopper to hear a record or CD before buying. He’s also buying music from those who have albums and CDs to sell. While Right On !!! Records is the only dedicated record store in Napa, Leonard is not the only one selling vinyl. RebelGirl Records has a large space inside the Antiques on Second collective. Other Napans sell records at swap meets and online via Etsy and other such sites. “I think there’s room” for competition, said Leonard. “What we’re doing is different” from anything else offered in Napa today.” You can reach reporter Jennifer Huffman at One of Leonard’s first customers at Right 256-2218 or jhuffman@napanews.com

SUMMER/FALL 2021

Larkmead adapts to heat, drought, smoke

Napa Valley resilience

A N N E WA R D E R N S T

lass, classic and a touch of quirky all land on the timeline of Larkmead Vineyards. If you think you know the whole story there you may not; you may not have done enough research, tasted enough of their wine, or listened to enough tales. Talk to ANNE WARD Dan Petroski, ERNST who up until recently was the winemaker at Larkmead, and he’ll tell you that the yarns of cigar-smoking, gambling and first woman volunteer firefighter, Lillie Hitchcock Coit, should be Please see Larkmead, Page 90

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retired (more on Lillie later). The wave of the future for Larkmead — and any other winery that wants to stay in business, Petroski said — is finding grapes that will grow in the increasing heat Napa Valley is experiencing. Climate change is here, Petroski said, and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are not learning to adapt, so wineries and grape growers need to find the grapes that will grow best in this new climate that includes regular doses of drought, smoke from wildfires and the blazes themselves. At Larkmead they’ve used shade cloths and misters to beat the heat, and there are some vineyards that have experimented with spraying sunscreen on grapes, but Petroski said those things aren’t going to work going forward. Petroski, who has moved on to focus on his own project called Massican, has left to the new winemaker, Avery Heelan (promoted this week from associate winemaker) the experimental research section of Larkmead. The research vineyard, some three acres planted in 2020, includes varietals such as Charbono, Chenin Blanc, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Aglianico, Tempranillo, and Touriga Nacional, all thicker skinned and more tolerant of heat and less water. Charbono in particular is already a familiar face in Calistoga, where there are believed to be more acres planted to the varietal than anywhere else in California — at last report it stood at about 45 acres of the statewide total of about 76. It’s a friendly-drinking varietal that some like to pair with pizza and pasta, so popular there once was a Charbono society dedicated to the grape. Larkmead’s story — besides making great drink-now-orage-it-wine — Petroski said, 90 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Bob McClenahan photo‌

Salvador Garcia, Larkmead Vineyards foreman, oversees planting in the experimental vineyard block in fall 2020.

they are ready to drink right away, but for those who have patience, a tastebud reward is in store. Siebelist is pouring the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc) for tastings now. It’s full of dark berry flavors and dried herbs, but it can lay down for several years. In comparison the 2009 vintage (80 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 12 percent Petit Verdot, and 8 percent Cabernet Franc) shows where a younger wine can go Anne Ward Ernst‌ if allowed to age. The 2009 is One of the tasting salons in the Howard Backen-designed winery that rich and rounded with flavors includes art by proprietor Kate Solari Baker. of dark, ripe plums, clove and has been about being good Larkmead Lane, between High- notes of Snickerdoodle cookies. Other wines to enjoy stewards of the land and the way 29 and Silverado Trail. environment. “Every single During the pandemic shut- include Firebelle and Lillie, both named for Lillie Hitchaspect” has a climatic story down, Erik Siebelist, tasting attached to it, he said. room manager, said Larkmead cock Coit, the daughter of Larkmead founders Charles They’ve chosen bottles with was blessed to have ample and Martha Hitchcock, and for less weight, shortened the foils, seating available for outdoor whom the Coit Tower in San and planted cork trees, and any tastings. Now, being able to number of other things such as move indoors for tastings they Francisco is named. The Firebelle is a Meradded solar and planted pollican still spread guests apart lot-based supported by other nator gardens, to be environfor both safety and privacy in Bordeaux varietals, and the mentally friendly, for example. the Howard Backen-designed The research vineyard is a spaces. There are tasting salons Lillie is a Sauvignon Blanc that 21-year project, three pieces that give the sense of being on masquerades as a Chardonnay, in “seven-year chunks,” he a southern plantation, or a pri- they say. Learn about Larkmead’s said, that will place Larkmead vate home, and of course those “way ahead of the curve” in areas that show you where you other wines, tastings and history at Larkmead.com. terms of dealing with climate really are — Napa Valley — change. But in the meantime, with vineyard and mountain Larkmead continues to make views. And in some rooms one Anne Ward Ernst is a longtime impressive wines on a propcan enjoy the art of proprietor journalist and former editor erty located about mid-way Kate Solari Baker and a collec- of The Weekly Calistogan. between the downtowns of tion of Prohibition glass. Contact her at GlassHalfFullBCalistoga and St. Helena on The wines are released when yAnne@gmail.com. SUMMER/FALL 2021

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From the Netherlands A teacher, therapist and donut lady touched lives K AT H L E E N R E Y N O L D S Hank Zwetsloot calls meeting the love of his life, Yoka, the “luck of the draw.” Which it truly was. Yoka Zwetsloot came to Napa from the Netherlands and made an impact on all she met. In her 81 years, she went from being an immigrant housewife with five children (one child died not long after birth) to winning a world record in a bench press competition, participating in numerous marathons, teaching aerobics and adaptive physical education, performing massage therapy and being an impressive bread baker. Yoka passed away in June 2020. As they prepare a celebration of her life one year later, Hank Zwetsloot, and granddaughter, Erika Cole, reminisced with The Napa Register about Yoka. Yoka and Hank met in the Netherlands. “We were in a ballroom dancing class in December,” said Hank. “Everyone drew names to buy a small Christmas gift for someone else in the class.” After drawing his sister’s name, Hank was relieved when his friend asked if he could be the one to buy the sister a present. The next name Hank drew was for Yoka. “It was a large class, about 70 people, and I didn’t know who she was. But I found her.” The couple went on a total of two dates, one to the movies and one to Yoka’s employer’s company function before Hank’s family moved to America. “We met in December ’57 and I left in February 1958. We wrote letters to each other for four years.” Erika interjected that Hank had saved a big box of letters between her grandparents, but her grandfather wouldn’t translate them. “He says that the Dutch wouldn’t translate,” she said and chuckled. “We think he doesn’t want us to know what’s in the love 94 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

The Zwetsloot family grew to include four children.

letters.” Hank joined the U.S. Navy. In 1959, he convinced his commanding officer to let him go to Europe on leave. He made a beeline to Yoka but only had enough money for a four-night hotel stay. Yoka persuaded her father to let the American sailor stay at her house. “I slept in the living room and no matter what time I awakened, her father was sitting there, watching me, protecting his daughter. After two weeks, I made up my mind and proposed.” He still had two years’ enlistment remaining. In 1960, after conquering a years’ worth of immigration paperwork, Yoka left her family and everything she’d known in Holland and came to America. “My ship had just set sail for Hawaii when she arrived. My father picked her up in Napa and she flew to Hawaii to see me.” Hank called Yuka “determined but fearful; gutsy but not brave.” She lived with her future in-laws until Hank returned home and

Submitted photo‌

they married on July l, 1961. Five children soon followed, although their first child died of a heart defect. Hank worked at Barwick-Dutton’s in Napa as an office equipment technician. Yoka sang in the church choir. When they were in their 30’s, Hank made a comment that changed her life course. “I told her she was getting ‘broad in the beam.’ It’s a navy term.” Erika spoke up, “So, it was a technical phrase, not an insult?” Hank laughed. “That’s when Yoka got serious,” he explained. “She gave up cigarettes, started going to college, taking classes, and working out. She began running and enjoyed it.” She joined the Napa Valley College team and, even in her 30s, was a star runner. She built on that strength well into her mid-70s. “Yuka had a big circle of friends and we all encouraged her when she ran marathons. The kids and grandkids would ride their bicycles part of the way with her when she

ran the Napa Marathon.” “Running was her therapy,” Hank said. “She would run to Skyline Park to the lake there and would cry out to God. That’s how she got through hard times.” By then, Hank worked at Mare Island and had completed his college degree in industrial engineering. Yoka graduated from Sonoma State in 1985. She got her teaching credential and went on to also become a certified massage professional. Yoka taught aerobics and adaptive P.E. at Napa Valley College to students, seniors, and police cadets. Yoka started weight training with a local coach who had been Mr. Universe. By 2007, she’d competed locally, at the state, national and international levels. At 68, she won a world record for the bench press in her category. Being Dutch, Hank and Yoka were used to riding their bicycles everywhere. “I engineered wooden seats so we could each take two children on the bikes. We were a sight. Yoka and I then went for longer rides. We’d take week-long rides to places like San Diego and Canada. In 1996, we rode our bikes across the country; 3,500 miles in 10 weeks.” On Sunday mornings, Yoka and Hank drove around town buying donuts. She then sold the donuts as a fundraiser for their church, earning her the nickname of Donut Lady. But she baked more treats than she purchased. Her family and friends attest to her baking skills. “She would bake everything from scratch, hand grinding the grain. She’d bake huge amounts and give them to her students or home-bound seniors. Up until one year of her death, she helped sort food at the Food Bank. She was still strong.” SUMMER/FALL 2021

HEALTHY

IS BETTER

Zia Wesley photo‌

Healthy menu items at House of Better at Dr. Wilkinson’s resort in Calistoga include a variety of housemade dips influenced by various cuisines; Japanese Uzu furikake, bean and green chili with pine nuts, creamy hemp hearts, and carrot harrisa.

Find ‘healthy comfort food’ at Dr. Wilkinson’s new restaurant CYNTHIA SWEENEY e d i tor @we e k lycal i st o g a n . c o m

ouse of Better, the new restaurant at Calistoga’s renovated Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs resort, offers a health-conscious, Southwestern-inspired menu that’s not your usual anything. Green chiles are at the heart of this flavorful, “healthy comfort food.” Think green chile stew, a green chile margarita, and green chile apple pie. The restaurant is the creation of Bay Area chef Trevor Logan, who some may know from San Francisco’s Green Chile Kitchen, and Chile Pies Baking Co., in Guerneville. Logan was strongly influenced by living in New Mexico during his 20s, and was indelibly taken with the fresh, high-desert grown, roasted green chiles. “I would bring them (to San Francisco) in my suitcase, until you couldn’t anymore,” Please see Healthy, Page 96

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The crew at Dr. Wilkinson’s new restaurant House of Better led by chef Trevor Logan, left, Jennie Russell, Nate Graham, and Melessio Santiago. The menu is inspired by Logan’s time spent in the southwest and many dishes are infused with roasted green chiles, including the pie.

HEALTHY From Page 95

he said. The resort itself has been completely redone and rebranded as Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs. It’s still a few weeks away from fully opening but its new restaurant is open now for dinner Thursday through Monday. House of Better has mostly outdoor seating. Designed by SB Architects and EDG Designs, two shipping containers make up the kitchen and bar area. An outdoor bar and greenery area sits adjacent to the restaurant with tables and lounge chairs for picnics or lawn games. “I feel like it has a little dash of Palm Springs thrown in,” Logan said. Logan’s menu is a match for the resort’s adopted “detox and retox” mantra. The idea is to detoxify your body with spa treatments and healthy food so you are ready to take on wine country. Or, take on wine country, then detoxify, repeat as necessary. “It’s all about finding a balance,” Logan said. “Detox so we 96 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

Submitted photo‌

off-limits to the green chile,” Logan said. For those detoxing, the restaurant and bar serves its own “wellness” cocktails and herbal tonics and ferments, and Medicinal Adaptogen Teas. There is also the green chile lemonade, housemade sangria, and a Fire Cider Wellness Tonic, an age-old remedy that, among other things, is good for a hangover. And then there are the pies. The pies are made with organic butter and less sugar than your typical pie. A daily rotation of homemade pies from Logan’s partner at the Chile Pies Baking Co. includes the popular green chile apple pie (of course, right?) with a cheddar crust and walnut streusel topping. This pie is drizzled with a red chili honey from Albuquerque, New Mexico. It’s an appropriate and pleasant surprise that many dishes on the menu incorporate specialty items. Logan originally started out with a food specialty store, before branching out to restaurant fare. Logan, in his early 50s, graduated from Berkeley’s holistic nutrition school Bauman College in 2018, and opened a pop-up in San Francisco called Booster Foods Nutrition Kitchen that sold protein bowls, seaweed salads and gluten-free pizzas. At one point, Logan had at one time six different locations. He closed Green Chile Kitchen in 2019, and is now at a point in his life where he’s happy to not be spending all his time managing. “I’ve found my niche. I did it all, and now I can focus on the thing I love,” he said. The restaurant had a soft opening last week and will have a grand opening May 8. House of Better is open for dinner service Thursday, Sunday and Monday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. and Friday to Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch hours are coming soon.

The menu at House of Better offers hearty, healthy options like booster bowls with sauteed kale, red quinoa and calabacitas,

House of Better at Dr. Wilkinson’s in Calistoga offers flavorful tonics and tinctures for detoxing.

can retox. Having fun with it and being self-aware that we all want to cleanse, and we all want to play. This is, after all, wine country.” Many of the dishes are substantial, like the Green Chile Stew with immunity broth, sweet potatoes and Greek yogurt, and the Carne Adovada, that features New Mexican Red Chimayo marinated pork, slow-roasted for 24 hours, and served with jicama slaw and blue tortillas, made daily in-house. Pickled turmeric and zucchini are featured with Reishi mushrooms in the Urban Mitaki salad, and the fish tacos are already a menu favorite, Logan said. The flatbread is baked in an outdoor, woodfired oven.

All ingredients sourced locally, and soon, the restaurant will soon start roasting its own chiles in a New Mexican chile roaster. It’s what Logan is most excited about, as he’s never seen one in action in Northern California, he said. The menu is a starter for the brand new facility, and future possibilities include a green chile burger. House of Better also offers wine and beer — some organic — and is partnering with local wineries including Tank, Maldonado, and Cliff Family wineries. There is also an agave wine margarita, and You can reach Cynthia Sweeney a green chile margarita. at 942-4035 or csweeney@ “There is nothing that is weeklycalistogan.com.

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LEFT: The facade of the new Mia Carta tasting room in Napa.

MIA CARTA

OPENS IN DOWNTOWN NAPA CRAIG SMITH

Six family wineries form a new collective tasting room

ike good wines, the idea for Mia Carta, a tasting room collective of six, family-owned and operated micro-production Napa Valley wineries, developed over time. A long time, actually. “We started coming to Napa for the wine 18 years ago,” said Shaun Mesher of him and his wife Stephanie. “Initially, we started with the big, commercial guys, then gravitated to the smaller wineries.” Mesher liked the relaxed atmosphere and talking to people in more intimate settings. “I love all the cool stories about people and wine. The stories may be the best part of wine drinking. I want to sit on my couch, drink and hear stories.” At the last comment, Stephanie and fellow partner Kim Bogner began to laugh. “Your couch is coming, promise!” The room had its grand opening on June 17, and some pieces are still coming together, including that couch. It’s hard to imagine that anything is “missing” – the room has an inviting, relaxed, unpretentious feel and look. This is a space where people can enjoy wine. And, again like a good wine, it will only get better. The concept for Mia Carta 98 | INSIDE NAPA VALLEY

began to gel when the founder of Essere, Frank D’Ambrosio, a veteran Napa grape grower and vineyard owner, casually mentioned to Shaun Mesher, a long-time club member, his plans to sell the Essere wine label and assets. Essere’s portfolio of ultra-premium wines is sourced from sustainable estate vineyards in Napa’s Oak Knoll, Yountville, and Coombsville AVA’s. Shaun took the idea of purchasing the winery back to his friends in Canada, and the future of Essere was set into motion. As a result, a dynamic collective of friends, with backgrounds in business, science, engineering and marketing, purchased the boutique Napa Valley label from Frank in 2017, and have been running it ever since. Shaun, a chemist, was later in Napa enjoying wine and conversation with Sharon Harris of RARECAT wines. The science of wine fascinates Shaun, and both Sharon and Shaun are passionate about the art of taste. He mentioned that he was considering opening a tasting room, and Sharon said she was also considering something similar. She also said that Ilsley Wines and Redmon Wines might be interested, but that both would insist on talking to Shaun to see if their philosophies were in line. They did, and it was a perfect fit. Art House Wines and Sciandri

Family Vineyards later joined the mix, and everything was set. Except, that is, for a location. After looking at and rejecting a few locations, the partners found their space, which is part of the Native Sons Building. The Sons were already negotiating with a couple of other prospective tenants when Shaun met them. “The building had bones, but it was a mess,” he said. “It had been earthquake retrofitted, but there were five layers of 2-by-4s and drywall on the walls, the floors needed leveling, the front of the building needed to be bumped out, and the exterior needed a complete overhaul.” Shaun could see the potential, and made the Sons the proverbial offer they couldn’t refuse. “I offered to bring it back to its original state.” There were challenges in store, like removing a safe with 13-inch thick concrete walls, that had been built into the building during its original construction. It took 26 months from the signing of the lease to open the doors. The features of the room unfold to the senses the longer you’re there. The back wall is a custom twostory, three-dimensional CNCmilled walnut wall map of the city of Napa. The tasting bar is crafted from 100% recycled paper. A vintage Piaggio “Ape del Vino”, which has been converted to a mobile tasting room for weddings or other

INTERSTICE Architects‌phtoos

The bar at Mia Carta, where six family-owned wineries will be pouring tastings in Napa.

events, is on display. The 15-foot stamped metal ceilings, with acoustic tiles fitted behind it, keeps reverberation and echoes at bay. The east wall is sustainably produced, floor-to-ceiling cork, while the opposing wall is exposed, preserved brick, original to the 1914 structure. Mia Carta has a private tasting room, a folding glass façade onto First Street which allows for open-air capabilities, and outdoor covered street dining with built-in heat lamps. The respective owners of the partnering wineries are all committed to spending time at Mia Carta. For guests who, like Shaun, enjoy talking about wine almost as much as drinking it, that will make the experience at Mia Carta unique. “The six wineries currently supporting us represent a good mix of Napa Valley wines, and we want to preserve that,” said Stephanie. “We’ve had other producers calling us, hoping to join us, and we are open to that.” Mia Carta is currently open Thursday through Monday. Stop by some time. Who knows? You might be able to sit on that couch with Shaun and enjoy a glass of good wine and conversation. Mia Carta is at 1209 First St., Napa. For more information, call 707-346-2244 or visit www.miacartanapa.com. SUMMER/FALL 2021

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Inside Napa Valley: Summer/Fall 2021

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