TABLE FOR TWO
LOOK BACK, PUSH FORWARD Avanzare brings new life to a modest space By Mark Loehrke
C
omfort food tends to get an unfairly bad rap in some quarters these days, as if in failing to explicitly reinvent the culinary wheel (even if just for the sake of doing so) a new restaurant that opts instead to craft a menu of well-chosen and finely executed staples is somehow not worthy of the same regard as its more daring brethren. But when it comes to Avanzare (667 W. Roosevelt Rd., 630.317.7076, avanzarerestaurant.com)—where a trio of Chicago restaurant veterans are bringing both Italian classics and the best of 54 APRIL 2020 / NAPERVILLEMAGAZINE.COM
their combined dining résumés to new life—the only proper response to any hint of been-there-done-that dismissal would be something along the lines of senza senso (Italian for “nonsense”). Partners Ricardo Brizuela, Gabriel Hernandez, and Jose Estrada are in fact pursuing a philosophy of not just fully respecting and embracing tradition, but pushing forward (which is the English meaning of avanzare) as well. “Our goal is to do classic Italian cooking with a few twists and turns, and to make almost everything we use right here onsite,” Brizuela says.
RED (SAUCE) ALERT For proof that Avanzare has a firm grasp on the fundamentals of traditional Italian cuisine, look no further than the appetizer slate, where tender meatballs rest on a bed of soft polenta and are bathed in a tomato sauce that confirms that your coming meal is indeed in good hands. Traditionalists can get their fix for calamari with the fritto misto, which combines the fried squid with scallops, shrimp, and zucchini in a light marinara. Both of these are best enjoyed with a selection from the extensive wine list, where nearly 90 percent of the options hail from Italy. On a cold night, a steaming bowl of the hearty escarole soup is a great option for dipping the housemade focaccia and sourdough breads as well. The breads emerge from the same wood-burning oven that fires up the half-dozen pizzas on the menu, including the gamberi, which layers shrimp and grilled zucchini atop a pesto base alongside chunks of Gorgonzola.
PHOTOS BY E. JASON WAMBSGANS/CHICAGO TRIBUNE
Tagliolini frutti di mare
