Gourmet Guide magazine - Summer 2019 by Natalie

journeys of flavour MAGAZINE SUMMER 2019

Do-able, delectable recipes

LEGENDARY CHOUFFE BEER

VEG by

Jamie Oliver

Luxury

staycations

Amuse bouche 3

Welcome from the editor

Haute travel 4

La Petite Ferme – the perfect position for exploring a culinary town

Haute dinners and beds 12 One or all, or one-for-all

Haute seasonal staycations 22

Sensational spa-stays Four ball, four plates or four courses?

Haute on everyone’s lips 34 The Gourmet Guide updates movements of haute chefs

Haute ingredients 44

What’s fresh and in season

Haute performance 46

The 2020 JHP Gourmet Guide™ launch celebratory affair

Haute chef 58

Meet chef Virgil Kahn as Indochine raises its name

Haute community 61 ‘Mind your Backs’

Haute drinks 62

Legendary Chouffe beer – the chefs’ choice

Haute favourites 66

Michelin-trained chef Wandi Mabaso Award-winning writer Malu Lambert

Haute skills 70

Eat, write, repeat – become a gourmet writer

Haute reads 72

VEG by Jamie Oliver

Meet the team

Content and editing – Jenny Handley Production and copy editing – Natalie Brock Design and layout – Wilna Combrinck Content and cover photograph – Anne Marais Content – Rosanne Buchanan Proofreading – Kristen Brock Sales – Jeanne van Rooyen and Shirley Roos

Contact details

P.O. Box 32216, Camps Bay, 8040 +27 437 0334 | rsvp@jhpr.co.za www.gourmetguide.co.za jhp_gourmet_guide jenny_handley Jenny Handley Performance Management Stock images from unsplash.com JHP Gourmet Guide™

Amuse bouche WELCOME TO THE SUMMER EDITION OF THE GOURMET GUIDE.

It’s the celebratory season, one that should be more about chillaxing than spending hours in the kitchen. Chefs have tested, shared and photographed ravishing yet real recipes that are easy to replicate – even Jamie Oliver has gifted us some special recipes from his latest book. Pack away your passports, forget about visas and forex, instead head outdoors for a picnic or a walk in the mountains whilst staying at home. Being privileged to travel extensively in my line of work I am often reminded of how exceptional our produce, restaurants and chefs are – and we live in one of the most scenic, sought-after countries in the world, especially if food and wine set your heart on fire. Beer may be your drink of choice, so we secured some serving and pairing tips from La Chouffe, which is perfect for quenching your thirst on a hot summer’s day. Writing about food, meeting chefs and reviewing restaurants is, for me, an honour. We were very excited to host our first introductory food-writing course aimed at those wishing to do the same. Congratulations to talented photographer Anne Marais, who, after attending the course, not only reviewed an event for the Gourmet Guide magazine, but also took the bright and colourful cover photograph for this issue. The innovative course will be available in an online format early in 2020. If you too would like to upskill yourself, visit www.gourmetguide.co.za.

Why not indulge in a staycation that is sophisticated and stylish? Be a tourist in your own town, or venture to the valley of food and wine, where La Petite Ferme offers the perfect place for gastronomic exploration. We have given you some ideas to get you going – or staying overnight – with a spa indulgence or game of golf on the menu, from Cape Town to Johannesburg. There are lots of dining-out options too. We have followed some lauded chefs as they pave their way in haute new spots, or stay where they are and reach the pinnacle of their career – like Virgil Kahn of Indochine, now a threeplated restaurant. We share some of the behind-the-scenes from the 2020 JHP Gourmet Guide™ awards and plating event, and applaud wine writer Malu Lambert, who returned from London where she represented SA, holding a coveted award. As it is the season of giving, we have ensured that there is plenty to win too. Put your feet up or run wild, but be sure to celebrate summer in whatever way feeds your soul.

Jenny Handley

La Petite Ferme the perfect position for exploring a culinary town

JENNY HANDLEY EXPERIENCED THE SPLENDOUR OF FRANSCHHOEK FROM THE LUXURY OF LA PETITE FERME. La Petite Ferme has established itself as the prime property from which one can easily explore picturesque Franschhoek and the surrounds. Local and international guests appreciate the tranquility, warm country hospitality, and exceptional accommodation. The Manor House and Vineyard Suites boast sweeping views from its lofty position on the slopes of the Oliphants Pass and Middagkrans Mountain Range. Unwinding at the splash pool on your private deck, or indoors in front of the fireplaces, makes tearing yourself away challenging. Modern décor and all the bells and whistles that one expects from a top-class property, are discreetly evident. In-room snacks and amenities are quality. One can walk off the cuisine in the vineyards, enjoy a vine orientation and tasting, buckle down for a bike adventure or take it easy, taking advantage of the mobile beauty spa.

A SEQUENCE OF SMILES A sequence of smiles is what awaits as you leave your suite. Engaging General Manager Riaan Kruger runs a tight-knit team of dedicated staff who endeavour to make each small interaction matter. He is justifiably proud of the property and the people who make it happen. “Great service is what we do, exceptional hospitality is how we make our guests feel.” AWARD-WINNING WINES Their expert wine tasting, conducted by passionate and well-informed Avron Williams, was in the small, intimate boutique-style wine-tasting room. He led us through the La Petite Ferme range of white, red and Methode Cap Classique wines with charm and interest, providing nuggets of information about the familyowned estate that is a pillar of the community. Pride of place is winemaker Wikus Pretorius’s ‘Wikus’ blend of Elim Semillon and Franschhoek Sauvignon Blanc, with hints of tropical fruit, passion fruit and blackcurrant. It was hard to

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6 choose only one memento of our stay from their hand-crafted wines – the barrel-fermented Chardonnay, their Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Baboon Rock wines are all a good example of what the lauded Franschhoek terroir has to offer.

the Mediterranean. He has a flair for keeping tradition whilst accenting the spirit of the wine estate. His childhood comes out to play in dishes like stuffed vetkoek with goats’ cheese.

CONTEMPORARY COUNTRY CUISINE

“My inspiration for summer this year is based on simplicity of farm to table and making use of the purest and natural ingredients. I have also looked at the trends happening in the Nordic states and taken a little from them and entwined it into our summer menu. With our new garden adding a natural aroma that filters through the restaurant, we are also able to use the freshest produce and herbs. We have started to use a lot more exotic herbs like Vietnamese coriander, blood sorrel, minion basil, pineapple sorrel etc,” says Kyle. His summer ingredients of choice include cucumbers, tomatoes and baby rainbow carrots. In cooler seasons, he conjures up exciting dishes using black potatoes, wild mushrooms and Beluga black beans. His aim is to pay homage to the heritage of this beautiful farm, cooking classic dishes with his inimitable twist. All items are made from scratch.

The restaurant overlooks expansive green lawns with the valley beckoning below, with windows wide open when the weather allows. The ambience is one of happiness, expect plenty of beaming tourists clad in their customary khaki, with panache. Head chef Kyle Norris and his team are devoted to showcasing local produce, and satisfying appetites for South African fare. Dishes are generous in portion and flavour, like the tasty La Petite Ferme classic of slowroasted lamb. “Although our lamb dish is a classic we have changed it to fit in with new European trends of fewer traditional meat sauces, instead more vegetablebased or fermented sauces. Now our venison is accompanied by a reducedbeetroot juice infused with blueberry for two days. The classic lamb with a pea-and-mint jus is elevated with fresh chocolate mint from our garden. A classic with a twist,” says Kyle. You may choose a mushroom and beetroot salad, a pumpkin-crusted Franschhoek trout or the Valrhona chocolate torte, but know that there is something for everyone. Kyle likes to blend unique cultural flavours of SA with the vibrancy and variety of

HERE COMES SUMMER

INSPIRED BY HERITAGE Here is a chef who likes to showcase the valley, inspired by researching global trends, then threading them into his cuisine. Kyle and his team work closely with local farmers and suppliers to ensure the freshest produce daily. Indigenous ingredients sourced ethically, and organically-

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farmed produce from family-owned and local producers, take pride of place on aesthetically-pleasing, designer plates – bold, bright and beautiful. Breakfast for in-house guests is equally impressive. There can be no better way, or place, to start another day in the glorious valley that has, with restaurants of this stature, been dubbed the culinary town of South Africa. The restaurant at La Petite Ferme is open for lunch from 12h00 – 15h30 and for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays from 18h30 – 21h00 in summer. Reservations are recommended. Facebook: La Petite Ferme Franschhoek Instagram: @la_petiteferme

CLICK HERE TO BOOK SPICY CAULIFLOWER STEAK WITH TRUFFLE CAULIFLOWER PURÉE INGREDIENTS Cauliflower steak 1 head cauliflower 500g buttermilk 100g kimchi sauce salt to taste 5ml oil butter Truffle cauliflower purée 250g cauliflower, thinly sliced 3 cloves garlic, sliced 20g butter water

100ml cream salt truffle zest Garlic fondants 10 garlic cloves 100g butter Dukkha spice 230g cashews, toasted and chopped 230g almonds, toasted and chopped 30g cumin seeds 30g coriander seeds 40g caraway seeds 10g black peppercorns 60g dried thyme 40g sumac

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8 juice of 2 oranges zest of 3 lemons 110g toasted and smoked sesame seeds Spring onion oil 150g shallot, or onion 480ml sunflower oil, or rapeseed vegetable oil 150g spring onion, +- 15 stalks Garnish 4 whole peppadews METHOD Cauliflower steak 1 Cut the cauliflower into steaks and keep the off cuts aside for the purée. 2 Coat the cauliflower steaks in the marinade of buttermilk and kimchi sauce, and vacuum pack. 3 Cook in a pot of boiling water until al dente. Remove and cool in ice bath. 4 Seasons with salt and coat one side in oil. Grill until nicely coloured and slightly charred. Repeat on the other side. 5 For service put a knob of butter on top and heat in the oven. Truffle cauliflower purée 1 Place the cauliflower, garlic and butter in a pot. Add a little bit of water to help steam the cauliflower. 2 Cover with cling wrap and cook on medium-low heat until the cauliflower is very soft. Remove the cling wrap and turn the heat up. Cook until remaining liquid evaporates. 3 Add enough cream to almost cover the cauliflower. Simmer until the cream reduces a bit and the cauliflower is soft. Remove and blend until smooth. 4 Season with salt then truffle zest to taste. Pass through a chinois.

Garlic fondants 1 Place the garlic cloves in a small pot and add a decent amount of butter, enough that when it melts it will submerge the garlic cloves. 2 Cover with a cartouche and simmer until the garlic is slightly soft. Remove cartouche and turn the heat up. 3 Swirl the pot constantly until the garlic goes golden brown. Remove from butter. Dukkha spice 1 Toast the spices and allow to cool completely, then blend. 2 Combine all together and then dry under the pass. Store in a vac bag. Spring onion oil 1 Peel shallots and thinly slice. Wash and then dry thoroughly with kitchen towel or paper. Cut into lengthways (separate the white and green part). 2 Pour oil into a frying pan over a medium-low heat. Add shallots then leave to simmer until it becomes lightly brown. Turn off the heat. Take out the shallot pieces with slotted spoon, drain and then pour the excess oil back to the pan. 3 Turn the heat back on. Add the white part of the spring onion. Leave to simmer over a medium low heat until it wrinkles a bit. Add the green part of the spring onion. Turn off the heat when it turns brown 4 Pour the oil into a sterilised, airtight jar. Garnish Slice peppadews into four and use as a garnish. Serves 4

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VENISON FILLET WITH PINK PEPPERCORN BROCCOLI AND ROASTED SWEET POTATO INGREDIENTS Pink peppercorn broccoli 250g tenderstem broccoli 10g pink peppercorns 10g butter salt Roasted sweet potato 500g sweet potato, peeled 5g salt 1 cinnamon stick 15ml treacle sugar 25g butter, cubed Hibiscus pickled onion 400g water 80g sugar 5g coriander seeds 2g peppercorns 15g dried hibiscus 400g white wine vinegar 20g salt 500g pickling onions Blueberry reduction 1kg frozen blueberries 300g orange juice 100g glucose 1 orange, zested and micro planed Toasted cashews 250g cashew nuts 1 egg white 1g salt Venison 200g venison fillet or loins 1L duck fat 6 cloves garlic 6 – 8 sprigs lemon thyme

Caramelized stone fruit 1kg stone fruit (peaches, plums, apricot) 100g brown sugar 15g butter METHOD Pink peppercorn broccoli 1 Clean the broccoli by cutting off the end root and removing the leaves. 2 Lightly toast the peppercorns in a pan. Remove and allow to cool. 3 Blend the peppercorns until course. 4 For service time, heat a pan with a little bit of butter. Add the broccoli and allow to cook till al dente. Toss with peppercorns and season with salt. HAUTE TRAVEL

10 in a vacuum bag and add enough of the pickling liquid to cover halfway up the onions. Vacuum pack or place in pickling jar. Blueberry reduction 1 Combine all ingredients except for the zest. Simmer until syrupy. 2 Stir through zest and chill. Toasted cashews 1 Toast the cashew nuts at 160°C until lightly golden brown. Remove from heat and allow to cool. 2 Whip egg whites until foamy. Toss the cashew nuts in the whites and seasons with salt. 3 Using a slotted spoon, remove the nuts and place on a tray with parchment paper. Bake at 180°C until golden brown and crispy. Roasted sweet potato 1 Roughly cut the potatoes into wedges. Place in a tin foil, lined tray and sprinkle with salt, cinnamon and treacle sugar. 2 Spread the butter throughout the tray. Roast in the oven at 180°C until the sweet potatoes are soft when poked with a knife but not mushy. 3 Remove from oven and allow to cool. Before serving, place on a tray in an oven until coloured. Hibiscus pickled onion 1 Combine water, sugar, coriander seeds and peppercorns. Heat, whisking periodically, until the sugar has dissolved. 2 Add the hibiscus and simmer for 1 minute. Add the white wine vinegar. 3 Cut the pickling onions in half and petal them. Blanch them for 30 seconds in boiling water and then refresh in ice water. 4 Place

Venison 1 Place the thyme and garlic in the fat duck and heat till melted. Remove from heat to reach a temperature of 65°C. Leave to infuse for 15 minutes. 2 Place fillets in a casserole dish and pour the duck fat over it, it must cover the loins. 3 Let these fillets sit for 2 to 3 days in the duck fat. Remove at any time when ready to grill and grill to choice. Caramelized stone fruit 1 Halve and de-pip the fruit. Bring a nonstick pan to temperature and place the cut fruit cut in pan. Watch this process as you want the colour to darken. 2 When at required colour add sugar, turn down the temperature to medium and wait for sugar to melt and caramelize. 3 Add butter and remove from heat, allow to cool. Serves 4

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THE FOOD-AND-WINE VALLEY The small town of Franschhoek in the Western Cape boasts natural and architectural beauty. The Cape Dutch buildings, centuries-old vineyards and quaint main street are the perfect platform for discovering five plated restaurants that have given this village the reputation of being the finest foodand-wine town in the country. Here chefs collaborate to ensure that only premium produce is served, foraged from their farms and discovered on the doorsteps. Franschhoek Tourism Association: www.franschhoektourism.activitar.com Franschhoek Wine Tram: www.franschhoek.org.za/activities/ franschhoek-wine-tram

13 Consider dinner, bed and breakfast as part of your staycation – one or all, here is one-for-all.

BEETROOT CHOCOLATE FONDANT

Even one night away can feel like a miniholiday. Curate your own special dinner, bed and breakfast treat. Have them together, or do just one? Dinner could be a vibey, urban affair at Urbanologi in Jozi, a fine-dining treat at Serendipity in George, or bed-and-breakfast at Tintswalo at Boulders. Perhaps all three, at Queen Victoria Hotel in the V&A Waterfront? The options are endless – here are a few to kickstart your planning process.

Urbanologi

INNER CITY, CUTTING-EDGE, EXPERIMENTAL AND LOCAL

One or all, or one-for-all

Set in the destination craft brewery Mad Giant, the energy is industrial and vibey – it was an excellent setting for executive chef Jack Coetzee to mastermind his own stylish street food. His legacy will live on, as it was during his tenure that the restaurant received one-plate status in the 2019 JHP Gourmet Guide™. Nothing goes to waste at Urbanologi. Here they take sustainability one step further by limiting their choice of food suppliers to those located 150km from the restaurant. Inspired by revolutionary chefs like Dan Barber and the Third Industrial Revolution movement, Jack believed, and set the example that it is a chef’s

responsibility to promote ethical eating. This sense of purpose is the regional focus of the Urbanologi menu, and it’s easy to navigate and trace the origin of each supplier – because the menu lists the name of the producer/farmer and where it is. It’s on his doorstep. The menu categories have also evolved from listing dishes according to the cooking technique to the type of supplier: from the baker, butcher, fishmonger, brewery and greengrocer. The food styling is modern, and each dish is a delight. Expect bold experimental touches like a lemon balm (part of the mint herb family) pesto (floral and light) and beer vinegar/mustard using leftover wort (sugary liquid) from the beer-making process. The Cape Malay trout ceviche with pickled baby onion and onion powder will create an indelible memory. There’s a lot of focus on fresh vegetables so vegetarians have loads of choice. Diners are encouraged to share dishes that are inspired by global cooking styles. Anything goes, from duck fat rotis, fermented parsnip chips to hummus. On the menu, you’ll also find South African influences like the mielie-pap bread – brioche made with mielie meal roasted over coals, like a roosterkoek, and served with a beer

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mustard and sun-dried tomatoes. On the drink’s menu – beer, freshly brewed of course – and a small selection of wines. “We needed to focus a bit more… to give what we do a driving force, a purpose behind it. Chefs have the power to change the way we eat.” Chef Jack Coetzee As Jack departs to expand his international experience, we wish him well. Come back Jack!

Recipe supplied by Urbanologi

CLICK HERE TO BOOK

BEETROOT CHOCOLATE FONDANT INGREDIENTS Chocolate fondant 100g couverture chocolate 100g butter 2 egg yolks 15 whole eggs 50g castor sugar 30g flour

Used-coffee tuile base 100g used, ground coffee 100g oats 60g butter 3C beer 120g cream 120g sugar Tuile 200g used-coffee tuile base 20g icing sugar 70g egg white 20g flour Salted-caramel gelato 3C milk 5 egg yolks 125g castor sugar 60g sugar 10g salt 100ml cream Roasted candy beetroot 20 baby candy beetroot (must have tails on) 1T olive oil pinch of salt 5g thyme

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METHOD Chocolate fondant 1 Melt chocolate and butter over a bain-marie. 2 Whisk egg yolks and sugar to a light, fluffy sabayon. 3 Pour in chocolate mix and combine. 4 Sieve flour and fold through mix. 5 Refrigerate until cool. 6 Fill desired moulds and bake at 180°C for 11 to 15 minutes.

sure all the beetroot will be evenly seasoned. 2 Lay down tin foil, place beetroot on the base. Cover with foil to make a parcel. 3 Bake at 180°C for 30 minutes. 4 Once baked, remove from the foil and peel the skins off. This must be done whilst the beetroot is still hot. 5 Slice beets. One beetroot in half and the other in quarters. Store in olive oil until needed.

Used-coffee tuile base 1 Sauté the used coffee and oats in butter until golden. 2 Add the beer, cream and sugar. Cook down until it becomes thick and pasty. Allow to cool.

TO SERVE 1 Preheat oven to 180°C. 2 Spray your mould to ensure that it may be removed without damaging your fondant. Fill the chocolate fondant moulds with mixture. Bake at 180°C for 11 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of your mould. It should be just baked enough around the outside to keeps its integrity and soft and liquid in the centre. 3 To plate, remove the fondant from the mould and place on the right-hand side of the plate. 4 Take your coffee tuiles and insert them into the fondant. The aim here is to provide height and visual interest to your plate so avoid symmetry at all costs. 5 Remove your baby beets from the oil and arrange the on the plate. We want to use the colour and the shape of the beetroot to add to the aesthetics of the plate. 6 Scoop some gelato and arrange it on the left-hand side of the fondant about a centimetre or two from the rest of the components. 7 Finish with a generous dusting of beetroot powder.

Tuile 1 Blend 200g of the base with icing sugar, egg whites and flour. 2 Spread thinly on parchment paper and bake at 180°C for 17 minutes. Leave to cool before removing. Salted caramel gelato 1 Place milk into a pot and bring up to a simmer. 2 Whisk the eggs and castor sugar until well combined. 3 Temper eggs and cream. Bring mixture up to 84°C. 4 Strain gelato base through muslin and allow to cool before use. 5 Make a caramel by placing the sugar in a pot on stovetop. Once it’s reached 150°C add the salt and cream into the caramel and allow to cool. 6 Put the gelato base in the thermomix, heat to 60°C. 7 Add the caramel to the ice cream. 8 Once emulsified place in churner until finished. Roasted candy beetroot 1 Place beetroot in a small bowl. Add olive oil, salt and thyme. Toss, making

Serves 10

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17 expertise are clear, and she excels at layering and combining flavours. She loves working with spekboom (succulent), madumbe (root veg), buchu (fynbos) and the ‘indigenous bounty’. Rather than following trends she experiments with local ingredients. Rudolf describes the food served as ‘hunting the pot’ as he personally ventures into the surf to catch shellfish and hunts for game meat. The menu is a set five-course table d’hôte. Each course reflects the season and plays on local traditions, like a summery take on a Waldorf salad with pickled raisins, pecan sand and warthog carpaccio, a refreshing cauliflower, lime and coconut soup and a buchu and lemon ‘slurpy’ – a foam rather than an icy palate cleanser.

Serendipity

Recipe supplied by Serendipity

A GARDEN ROUTE DELIGHT It’s a Monday night, it’s out of season and all 11 tables are occupied. That’s not to say the dining room is a clatter of noise. The two dining areas are small and intimate, there’s a flicker of candlelight and a low hum of convivial conversation. The elegant setting on the Touws River is magical, especially at sunset, and service is easy and relaxed. There’s nothing quite like Serendipity (also home to a stylish B&B) on the Garden Route. Chef Lizelle and maître d’ Rudolf Stolze have only refined what they originally set out to achieve 20 years ago – to celebrate South African cuisine. Lizelle has earned recognition for her inventive use of ingredients like venison, game birds and sustainable seafood. Her classical training and

All wine and drinks served pay tribute to the region – from craft beers to gin cocktails. The wine-pairing menu offers diners an opportunity to try some of the country’s more unusual boutique wines, including a delicious honey mead for dessert, and a sommelier explains each pairing.

Rudolf is a welcoming front-of-house host who shares their food philosophy. He’s animated and entertaining as he tells the stories behind each dish, and Lizelle mingles during dinner service. It’s a wonderful combination that makes for an easy, leisurely meal. www.serendipitywilderness.com CLICK HERE TO BOOK

VENISON BOBOTIE INGREDIENTS 1 onion, finely chopped ¼C sunflower oil 2T curry masala 1T coarsely-ground breyani spices 1T turmeric 1kg minced venison 1T salt 1t black pepper 1T fruit chutney ¼C lemon juice

1T brown sugar ½C raisins 1 slice white bread, finely crumbed 3 eggs METHOD 1 In a large saucepan, sauté onions in oil over medium heat until transparent. 2 Add all the spices and fry for a further 2 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180˚C. 3 Add minced meat and sauté, stirring well to mix with the spices. 4 Add salt, pepper, chutney, lemon juice, brown sugar and raisins. 5 Add breadcrumbs and 1 egg and mix well. 6 Transfer into an ovenproof baking dish. 7 Whisk up the remaining eggs and pour over the bobotie. 8 Bake until egg layer is set and golden, about 30 minutes. Serves 8 – 10 as a starter Bobotie is a traditional South African dish, served with sambals, coconut milk foam and poppadums.

The restaurant’s name came before the famous eponymous movie, the couple say, as it was an unexpected decision to move to the coast when they grew tired of the city rat race and wanted to spend more time together as a family. Armed with a B Com degree in hotel management and her training as a chef at Prue Leith Academy of Food and Wine, Lizelle wanted to get back into the kitchen after lecturing at Prue Leith. With his background in marketing,

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19 with a delectable garden pea panna cotta, pea and mint salad, chive crème fraîche mousse and garnished with a touch of trout roe, exquisitely served in glass. Both the 2017 and 2018 vintages, produced from grapes harvested exclusively from the estate, were applauded by the appreciative audience. Delicate tones of pineapple and pear with a nutty hint were savoured in the glass before a significant finish. Both Chris and Christo agree that it is a foodfocused wine.

Tintswalo at Boulders

A CELEBRATION OF SUMMER WINES After sauntering along the quaint shopping street of Simon’s Town, we arrived at Tinstswalo Boulders Boutique Villa. We booked into our sumptuous suite, Mary Rose – all rooms are named after famous ships. The nine suites and the children’s suite provide a relaxed, home-from-home ambience where you can cocoon yourself, or be sociable in the spacious living, dining or pool areas, which, like some of the rooms, offer fabulous sea views. It was with writing, eating, wining friends in the media that we gathered in the courtyard to taste our first of the Bouchard Finlayson wines. Their Sauvignon Blanc 2018 provided the perfect foil for yellowfin tuna sushi roll, seared beef teriyaki roll and a Springbok and chakalaka kare pan. We took our seats at a long table as

executive chef Christo Pretorius of the 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa – guest chef at this gourmet food and wine event, welcomed us and explained the dishes. The first was the tangy, succulent Moroccan lamb en croute with brioche, a pickled apricot purèe, labneh, crispy chickpeas and cured lemon peel, paired with the Sans Barrique Chardonnay 2017. Lively, stimulating conversation flowed with the wine before Chris Albrecht, the passionate winemaker of Bouchard Finlayson, introduced us to their new flagship 2017 Missionvale Chardonnay. It is named after the mission hospital which was established on the property in the early 19th century. A sevenyear tenure with winemaker and ‘king of Pinot Noir’ Peter Finlayson, Chris has taken the helm for the last three harvests, and the results justify his obvious, yet humble pride. The finesse of this wine matched the Fizantakraal salmon trout perfectly. The marinated trout tartare was served

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The main course of Angus Bavette steak with artichoke purèe, soy truffle cream and a ‘meaty’ grilled king oyster mushroom was served with shiitake mushrooms and a pinot noir beef jus. It’s companions? The much-lauded Galpin Peak Pinot Noir 2015 and 2018 vintage, well introduced by the 12 Apostles’ sommelier, Gregory Mutambe, brand ambassador for Bouchard Finlayson. Dessert of a quartet of petit fours featuring some of my favourite flavours – coffee, caramel, chocolate, vanilla to name a few – brought a memorable evening of fine dining and fine wines, to a close. Before a delicious and generous breakfast with sterling views of False Bay we took advantage of the direct access to Boulders Beach and the famed penguins. They make for intoxicating, mesmerizing viewing. Endangered, but oblivious to our fascination, they toddled, swam, mated and ran. We also made friends with dassies, meerkats and seagulls, all enjoying the fynbos and solitude of this unique spot.

WIN! BED AND BREAKFAST FOR TWO AT TINTSWALO AT BOULDERS PLUS A BOTTLE OF GALPIN PEAK PINOT NOIR 2018 AND CROCODILE'S LAIR 2017

www.tintswalo.com/boulders/villa HAUTE DINNERS AND BEDS

See the competitions page on our website for details.

Queen Victoria Hotel

METHOD Tuna loin 1 Season loin with smoked paprika and Maldon salt to taste. 2 Sear in a smoking hot pan with a DASH of olive oil. Cook the tuna on one side as to char and blacken it. 3 Quickly flip over and finish off with a knob of butter and thyme. 4 Based with the butter remove from the pan and set aside to rest. The desired temperature of the tuna should be rare to medium rare.

TAKE FIVE-STAR REFUGE FROM THE FRENZY OF A WORKING HARBOUR

Recipe supplied by Dash

This regal hotel with its triple-volume foyer, spiral staircase, glass lift and crystal chandeliers is the epitomy of opulence. Add a gym, swimming pool and spa, and you know you can relax like royalty, either venturing out to explore the allure of the V&A Waterfront, or simply stay in. Dash Restaurant is Cape Town’s best-kept secret. Have a relaxed lunch, perhaps a flatbread with grilled halloumi, cauliflower, mint and honey or their chef’s butter chicken curry with roti and sambal? Dinner is a more elegant, dignified affair. You may even wish to take a quick garden tour and a nibble of their newly-grown wasabi lettuce, to see where their freshest-of-fresh dishes begin. Look out for their monthly dinners when chef Chris Erasmus of two-plated restaurant Foliage joins Chef Ash of Dash for a memorable evening of foraging flavours. The Sanctuary spa offers purity and balance with their unique range of body care products, Moya, inspired by the fynbos found on the slopes of Table Mountain. Here is a hotel that offers a full 360-degree option – dinner, bed, breakfast and all the bells and whistles that one loves, inbetween. newmarkhotels.com/places/hotels/ queen-victoria-hotel CLICK HERE TO BOOK

BLACKENED TUNA INGREDIENTS Tuna loin 100g yellowfin tuna loin 10g smoked paprika Maldon salt 10g butter 2g thyme Fennel foam 200ml coconut cream 2g soy lecithin 5g fennel seeds Tom yum 1 lemongrass 2 red chillies 2g coriander seeds 60g galangal 3 cloves garlic 2L vegetable stock 800ml coconut cream 100g seaweed (nori) 25ml fish sauce 80ml lime juice foraged beach herbs, i.e. sout slaai, seaweed, beach spinach 100g fresh coriander

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Fennel foam 1 Add coconut cream, soy lecithin and fennel seeds to a saucepan. Heat up and remove from the stove. 2 Allow to infuse for 10 to 15 minutes. Blend, strain and set aside for plating. Tom yum 1 In a medium saucepan heat up a DASH of olive oil and gently sauté the

lemongrass, chillies, coriander seeds, galangal and garlic. 2 After a minute or two add the vegetable stock and bring to a simmer. 3 Add coconut cream, nori sheets, fish sauce, lime juice and foraged seaweed. Gently simmer for a further 30 minutes. The broth should taste spicy, sour and herbaceous, a perfect balance. 4 Finally add fresh coriander. Blend and then strain through a tea towel to get the smoothest broth. PLATING 1 Place your tuna in a bowl (I dress mine with smoked beef fat) garnish with sout slaai, beach spinach and a couple of roasted vine tomatoes. 2 Blend up the fennel-infused coconut cream from above to create the foam, spoon over the tuna and add a generous ladle full of steaming tom yum. Serves 2

Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa WHERE SOPHISTICATION MEETS SOLITUDE

Sensational spa-stays

If a staycation is your choice this summer, combine fine dining with a special spa treat.

HAUTE SEASONAL STAYCATIONS

Tucked away in the heart of Sandhurst, Johannesburg, is the Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa, in 10 acres of indigenous gardens. Opulence, decadence and discretion await. Not many hotels can boast having two top female chefs at the helm, who rather than competing, complement one another. Dinner at two-plated Grei*, where chef Candice Philip offers an herbaceous epicurean journey, will be a highlight. Named after the small rural town of Madiba’s home, Qunu, is where you’ll experience modern African cuisine. Chef Jane-Therese Mulry, an Australian, has worked all over the world, under culinary maestros like Marco Pierre White, in far-flung corners from North Island to bustling Bangkok. Expect dishes like butterpoached lobster, melon, sweetcorn and Champagne beurre blanc with charred corn and dill oil. The mushrooms and hemp – grilled king oyster mushroom, mushroom tartare, hemp nut tabbouleh, cigar of mushroom pate and Rooibos gel, and carrot risotto, showcase her talent with vegetarian and vegan dishes. Jane-Therese finds inspiration on site in the garden, called Sarapana. She has a burgeoning interest in nutrition. “It’s time for me as a chef to use this

to collate knowledge that I have, and will have, and bring it together. It’s from cooking around the world, from knowledge of nutrition – I want to bring back what we don’t want to lose.” Expect stinging nettle, radish leaves and other natural ingredients that give life to what you may think could be waste, adding life and lustre to her dishes. The Saxon Spa ‘sanctuary of the senses’ travels you to relaxation and beyond. If you cannot decide what to choose from the spa menu, why not consider the Molten Brown signature journey – a candle-lit, 90-minute orange-andbergamot journey in the Hammam. Start sipping tea whilst your feet are washed, then have an exfoliation, a body wash, a refreshing Vichy shower before a detoxing massage. It includes a hair and scalp treatment and crystal therapy, and lastly, as you are 100% unwound, a neck stretch. This sensory adventure is a holiday on its own. Stay on the straight and narrow by sipping a clarity juice afterwards – a heady combination of green tea, carrot, lime, lemongrass, ginger and turmeric. It will kickstart your metabolism and boost your immunity. It will be hard to take your leave of this soothing space. *Read more about Grei in the printed 2020 JHP Gourmet Guide™ publication.

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25 SMOKED CASHEW CHEESE, ARTICHOKE, BABY MARROW AND SORGHUM A vegan dish inspired by the Springboks. INGREDIENTS Smoked cashew cheese ½C raw cashews, soaked for at least 2 hours, drained and rinsed 1T nutritional yeast 1T freshly-squeezed lemon juice 1 crushed garlic powder ½t salt, more as needed ¼t freshly-ground black pepper ¼C water, more as needed Rooibos tea leaves for smoking. Marinated artichokes 2 lemons 6 artichoke hearts 1.5L vegetable stock 100g vegan butter salt

Recipe supplied by Qunu

Golden marrow dome 6 golden marrows 1 onion, chopped 1 clove garlic 1L vegetable stock agar agar Sorghum biscuit 90g non-dairy butter 50g icing sugar 25g golden syrup 5g ground ginger 5g ground cinnamon 1g bicarbonate soda 50g ground almonds 150g sorghum flour

Popped sorghum 100ml vegetable oil 50g sorghum grain Roasted baby golden marrow 8 baby golden marrows olive oil thyme oregano Garnish green baby marrows, thinly sliced watercress leaves and flowers roasted baby marrow wild rocket flowers popped sorghum METHOD Smoked cashew cheese 1 Smoke the cashews with Rooibos tea, by placing tea into a smoker and smouldering the tea leaves. Once tea is smoking, place the cashews inside a container and place container into the smoker, cover and remove from heat after 10 minutes. 2 Place the cashews, nutritional yeast, lemon juice,

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26 garlic powder, salt and pepper in a food processor. Pulse repeatedly to break the cashews down, until they form a coarse, wet meal. Scrape the sides of the food processor down with a spatula. 3 Turn the motor of the processor on. With the motor running, drizzle in the water and let the cashews process for about 10 seconds. Stop and scrape the machine down again. Continue processing for a full 1 to 2 minutes, or until the cashew cheese is smooth and thick, adding a tablespoon of extra water if needed. The consistency should be like hummus. Marinated artichokes 1 Squeeze 1 lemon into a pot with 1 litre of water. 2 Trim and clean artichoke hearts. Rubbing with lemon to ensure they don’t go brown. 3 Place them into the water with lemon juice. 4 Once all artichokes are trimmed and cleaned, drain from water and place into a pot with vegetable stock and vegan butter. 5 Place pot on the stove and bring to the boil. Place a cartouche to submerge artichokes to cook properly. Season with salt. 6 Once soft, remove. Place into a sous vide bag, add a little cooking liquor, seal and drop into ice water till chilled. Golden marrow dome 1 Slice off the outer skin of the baby marrows. 2 Sweat onions and garlic, add chopped golden marrow skin, cover and deglaze with vegetable stock. Cook till soft. Blend and strain. 3 Add 1g agar agar for every 100ml

27 liquid. Return to stove and simmer for 4 minutes. When thick pour into moulds and set. Sorghum biscuit 1 Cream butter and icing sugar. Add syrup, ginger, ground cinnamon and bicarbonate soda. 2 Add almond meal to blender and blend with 100ml water. Add to mix and fold in flour. Combine and rest. 3 Roll out and cut into desired shape – triangle. Bake at 180°C for 12 minutes. Popped sorghum 1 Heat pan. Add vegetable oil and sorghum grain and cook till puffed (looks like popcorn). 2 Drain on kitchen paper and set aside. Roasted baby golden marrow 1 Place baby marrows on top of a piece of tin foil, drizzle with olive oil and herbs. 2 Wrap the marrows in the foil and place into the oven to bake on 180°C till soft, roughly 12 minutes. 3 Remove from oven, allow to cool. PLATING 1 Place cashew cheese into a piping bag. Pipe into 4 artichokes. 2 Cut the remaining artichokes into wedges and arrange on top of the cheese. Arrange baby marrow and artichoke on plate. 3 Add the biscuit and garnish the artichoke with above mentioned salad garnish. 4 Place the golden marrow dome on the biscuit. 5 Finish by adding popped sorghum. Serves 4

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Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel

THE OASIS OF THE CAPE Every year many international visitors make the Belmond Mount Nelson their home and base from which to explore Cape Town. Some limit their explorations, instead choosing to rather laze at the pool or on the outdoor terrace overlooking the gorgeous 300-year-old gardens, sipping cocktails and relaxing. Now locals too can enjoy the sanctuary with their ‘Summer Bliss’ package – treat yourself to a 60-minute Sothys Fundamental Facial at the luxury Librisa Spa, a sumptuous lunch at the Oasis restaurant and a blissful day in or around the heated swimming pool. The Oasis restaurant, with its arresting, hand-painted mural depicting Cape flora and fauna, twinkling glass chandeliers and Lloyd-Loom-style chairs offer an ambience of five-star casual. Order from the á la carte menu which includes a selection of small plates highlighting Cape favourites like the bobotie bites, pickled fish and vetkoek – all homemade. Or create your own plate from

the vast and enticing selection on the impressive, ever-evolving buffet – every day offers something different. Executive chef Rudi Liebenberg and Oasis chef Llewelyn Hurter have married Mediterranean and pan-African specialities with aplomb. Transport yourself around the world on your taste buds, from Japan to Mexico. Gluten-free and decadent options are immense in the enticing artisanal bread and pastry corner (all baked on site) where one may want to linger all day. Desserts are designed to make even the most disciplined diner discreetly slip up for seconds. The laid-back Sunday lunch buffet with a carvery and live jazz is inviting, and breakfasts at the Oasis make you wish for longer days. If you wish to have a more formal dining experience, the Lord Nelson restaurant offers olde-world classics, and the Chef’s Table – a unique adventure of dining in the kitchen.

The Summer Bliss package at R995 per person is available until 30 April 2020, (except 15 December to 15 January).

Four ball, four plates or four courses?

31 A staycation that combines golf and good food is a great option – both Steenberg Estate in Constantia and Erinvale Estate in Somerset West have raised their games with new restaurant offerings.

Tryn

Steenberg Estate’s new-look restaurant ‘Tryn’ is named after Catharina Ras, who founded the estate in 1682. Losing three of her five husbands to mishaps in the wild, her feisty spirit is still lauded and alive in the bold tones of the now contemporary restaurant. Here Chef Kerry Kilpin, having established herself at Bistro Sixteen82, where her tapas menu is loved by many, has introduced bigger plates on which her love of global flavours shines. The bolder backdrop of the bar and red-and-jade private dining room offer other options, but the airy restaurant and outdoor seating is where diners will head when the sun shines. The ‘little pumpkins’ – small, pumpkin-coloured and shaped upholstered chairs – draw your eye away from the many carefully considered, modern details before you feast them on the vineyards beyond. Take a seat at the bar area, which is already a popular sundowner spot, before moving to your table. Starters boast an array of flavours, each more piquant than the last, from oysters, scallops and prawns to a Caesar salad. Middle Eastern and Asian seasonings are discreetly evident

CHEF KERRY KILPIN AT TRYN HAUTE SEASONAL STAYCATIONS

in many of her dishes. The ethicallysourced Cape bream as a main course, accompanied by a punchy aubergine parcel with butternut, coriander, harissa and rose petal, is a reminder of her commitment to ABALOBI. The dessert selection is enticing – consider the warm chocolate and strawberry dessert with basil ice cream, small and delicate in plating yet rich in flavour, or her original cheese dessert. A lot of sharing, oohs and aahs will follow. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, seven days a week, once you have been there you may wish to become a regular. While on the estate pamper yourself at the spa or book a round of golf on their challenging, award-winning golf course.

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Magnolia Social Dining Lounge To celebrate the metamorphosis from country pub to chic social lounge, Erinvale Estate in Somerset West recently hosted the launch of its new Magnolia Social Dining Lounge. Cape Town-based interior designers, Ernst H Interiors, curated the perfect balance (from trendy to timeless pieces) with the delicate, small-plate meals. A memorable experience, aimed to tantalize all five senses, head chef Stefan Bekker is taking the reins with his small hands on culinary team, and have revolutionised the dining style. Stefan chooses seasonal and locally sourced produce – some grown on the estate – to enhance the concept of social eating, emphasising culinary creativity and highlighting social interaction and conversation. His vast knowledge of the perfect, portionsized dishes comes from working for Qatar Airways for several years.

33 Working in hotel kitchens for most of his career, locally and globally, Stefan gets excited that he now has a fifth menu to play with. The menu is intelligent; a choice of four small plates, served tapasstyle, encouraging new taste journeys. His affinity for the Asian anthology throughout his menu is noteworthy, culminating in his decadent dessert menu. Expect dishes from open-prawn dim sum to an elegant Turkish delight globe, complemented with a host of cocktails, a specialised wine list and attentive service. The concept does not disappoint, leaving one feeling satiated and eager to return to experience more of the elegant ambience. Open daily from 11 to 11, this historical building surrounded by an avenue of trees, circled by the Hottentots-Holland mountains, might become your go-to for those regular social get-togethers. Other offerings on the estate include dining at their flagship restaurant Seventeen07, an overnight stay in one of their luxury 56 en-suite rooms, a round of golf at their Gary Player-designed 18-hole golf course and a day of relaxation at the opulent spa.

LIGHTLY-SMOKED TROUT WITH TOMATO BROTH INGREDIENTS Smoked ocean trout 1C rice 4 tea bags 4 cleaned trout fillets Maldon salt zest of 1 lemon Thai broth 1 white onion, chopped 30g grated garlic 1 fresh lemongrass, chopped 30g grated ginger 1 fresh red chilli, chopped 1t shrimp paste 150g cherry tomatoes 35ml fish sauce 1 can coconut milk 1 lemon 20g chopped coriander METHOD Smoked ocean trout You will need three sheets of strong foil. 1 Place foil in a frying pan, add your rice and tea leaves removed from the

CHEF STEFAN BEKKER

teabags. 2 Place another layer of foil onto the rice mixture and fold over the edges, tightly, and poke holes in the foil parcel. 3 Season your trout with salt and zest and place the fish skin down onto your foil parcel. 4 Cover the fish with another layer of foil and place the pan on high heat for 4 to 5 minutes until you see heavy smoke coming from the parcel. 5 Remove from heat but don’t uncover the trout, set aside for 10 minutes. Thai broth 1 In a medium-sized saucepan sauté the chopped onions, garlic, lemongrass, ginger and chilli over medium heat until your onions are translucent. 2 Add shrimp paste, tomatoes, fish sauce and coconut milk and simmer for 15 minutes over medium heat. 3 After cooking let sauce cool and then blend and strain. 4 To finish squeeze the juice of 1 lemon into sauce and add your freshly-chopped coriander. Serves 4

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Images supplied by Magnolia Social Dining Lounge

Rikku Ò'donnchü Exhibit A

CHEFS WARWICK KING, RIKKU Ó’DONNCHÜ AND CHRISTIAAN DE JONGH.

Adventurous epicureans who experienced chef Rikku Ò'Donnchü’s talent at Gáte will be happy to know that he has found his niche in Bree Street, Cape Town. Celebrate a special occasion or simply book for dinner and a show – simultaneously. Don your glad rags to witness the wonders of his new restaurant, Exhibit A, where molecular gastronomy and the theatre of food are the order of the day.

Haute on everyone’s lips The Gourmet Guide keeps you updated on the movements of haute chefs.

With a glass of Champagne in hand cast your eye into the calm, streamlined kitchen before you admire the bright green backdrop and begin your 12-course foodand-art adventure. You are in for a series of surprises, some memorable dishes and very attentive, informative service. Chef Rikku pulls out all the stops when it comes to theatre and presentation, his Irish and Swedish parentage, contributing humour and sophistication, respectively, have served him well. You will be warned not to eat the edible list of options – from the earth, sea, farm, field and patisserie. After some delectable amuse bouches you will have a smoke break, a bread cigar to dip into ‘ash’ – dip deeply so that you can savour the caramelized onion resting right at the bottom. Next up oysters, topped with a piquant

sauce flavoured with coriander and nuts, served in a scallop shell with dry ice below creating a smokescreen. Delicious oyster vulgaris appears before vetkoek with caviar and Parmesan served with spekboom on a rock. Catch your breath as a delicate plate of quail eggs, balsamic pearls, shavings of truffle and crisp tomato biscuits delights you with each component, individually and in harmony. Unity is evident in the wine pairings which work well without being over-the-top. Talking of tomato, the twin course that so well represents Rikku’s philosophy of nose-to-tail (no wastage and plentiful foraging) is the plum tomato, teamed with basil – delightful in its simplicity. Rikku now arrives and, with a flourish, fries the beef tendons that are placed on top of salty beef tartare. The goose that laid the golden egg stars in the next act, dropped deftly to reveal the creamiest duck liver mousse, with the rest of the duck transformed into a small roulade that is heavenly. The forest is

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The beetroot dessert with shards of meringue and a gold-topped sphere is a treat. An array of petit fours includes an unassuming, unexpected Amarula frozen lolly. The cherry on top? It is a treat to hear people having a belly laugh, bursting edible helium balloons in such an opulent, upmarket setting, having fun. You will too. www.exhibita.co.za Lunch: Tuesday to Saturday: 12:00 – 14:00. Dinner: Tuesday to Saturday: 18:00 – late.

Freddie Dias – Basalt Restaurant

Chef Freddie Dias has returned to Jozi to elevate the refined dining scene in the city. Basalt at the Peech Hotel boasts a fresh, different design and concept in the heritage house, celebrating and harmonising local food and wines. The original restaurant space now has expansive sliding glass doors, allowing the indoors and outdoors to be integrated for an optimum, casual dining experience. From breakfast to dinner, guests from the hotel and beyond are giving rave reviews. Perfect for solo, couple, communal and family meals. Fresh, local flavour is the name of his game. Freddie is renowned for using his heritage (Portuguese) and global experience, having worked in Lisbon, Mexico, France and the UK before being mentored by Luke Dale Roberts at The Pot Luck Club in Cape Town. Expect the same level of creativity for which Freddie was renowned. www.thepeech.co.za/restaurant Tuesday – Saturday for dinners only. MEXICAN PORK BELLY

CHEF FREDDIE DIAS OF BASALT

INGREDIENTS Recado negro 60g dried arbol or Thai chillies 2 heads garlic 2 medium onions, with peel

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4 corn tortillas or 100g maize meal 100g achiote paste 20g allspice berries 6 whole cloves 4 sticks cinnamon 10g whole black pepper 20g dried origanum 20g dried epazote (optional) +- ½C red wine vinegar Pork belly 1 whole pork belly, skin on and bone off 4 whole oranges 2C organic chicken stock Roasted almond mole 1 small onion, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 whole jalapeno pepper, seeds removed and finely chopped 30g raisins 4 sprigs marjoram 20g ground cumin 1 medium heirloom tomato, roughly

chopped 300g toasted flaked almonds juice of 1 lemon 200ml water salt and pepper METHOD Recado negro 1 Heat a cast iron pan and grill the chillies, turning frequently, until they are completely black. (Chef’s tip: Be sure to do this in a well-ventilated area, the heat for the chillies can be overpowering, a sure-fire way to clear the lungs and sinuses!) 2 Grill the garlic and onion until the skin is completely black. Grill the tortillas until they are completely charred as well. 3 Wash the chillies well in plenty of water and throw out any seeds that float to the surface. 4 Lightly toast the spices (achiote, allspice, cloves, cinnamon, pepper, origanum and epazote) and then grind. 5 Put the ground spices, peeled onion and garlic,

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Recipe supplied by Basalt

the backdrop for the cheese course; you will fall in love with the croissant, made with cheese not butter, and the gorgonzola.

Recipe supplied by 9th Avenue Waterside

chillies, tortillas and vinegar in a food processor and blend into a fine paste (this could take several minutes). Add a little more vinegar if the paste has trouble turning in the machine. Pork belly 1 Season the flesh side of the belly with salt and let it rest. 2 Juice the oranges and mix with 300g of the recado negro paste. It should resemble a loose or wet paste. 3 Pour this paste over the pork belly and rub it all over. Leave to marinate for minimum 4 hours, or ideally overnight. 4 Transfer the belly onto a baking tray, skin-side up with all the marinade. Pour the chicken stock over it. 5 Tightly cover the roasting pan with foil and bake in an oven preheated to 150°C for 3 hours. After slow cooking the pork should be tender but not falling apart. 6 Strain the juices from the tray and reserve to make the sauce. 7 Leaving the belly on the baking tray, cover the top of the belly with silicon paper. Place another tray on top of the belly. Add some sort of weights to the tray to press the belly flat and evenly. Place the belly on top in the fridge and cool for at least 6 hours. 8 Once the belly is cold and nicely set, remove the weighted tray and cut the edges off to make a neat rectangular shape. Portion the belly into 150g squares. Then remove the skin. 9 For the sauce, take reserved juices from the tray. Add 20g of the spice paste plus the juice of half an orange and reduce slowly until thick and emulsified.

39 Roasted almond mole 1 Sauté the onion, garlic, jalapeno, raisins and tomato on a low heat for about 5 minutes. 2 Add the marjoram and cumin and cook for a further 5 minutes. 3 Add the almonds and mix to incorporate all the ingredients. 4 Add the lemon juice and water and cook on low for about 15 minutes. 5 Transfer the contents of the pot into a blender and blend on high for 10 minutes until its super smooth. Add a little warm water to loosen it up if too thick. PLATING Serve each portion of pork belly on a plate, spoon the sauce over, add a dollop of the roasted almond mole, and add chargrilled seasonal vegetables such as leeks, asparagus or fennel. Serves: Depending on the size of the pork belly, this could serve 6 to 8.

Graham and Gina Neilson – 9th Avenue Waterside

Fans of Graham and Gina Neilson have applauded loudly for their move to the Waterside where their legendary bistro fare is now paired with a view of Durban’s harbour. Neighbouring yacht clubs provide a vastly different setting to the shopping centre and carpark of before. The focus is still on excellent, quality cuisine (Graham), and personalized service (Gina). This dynamic, passionate couple have an ability to create a community around their food. Regulars have faithfully followed for their

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GRAHAM AND GINA NEILSON OF 9TH AVENUE WATERSIDE

ever-popular dishes, but ended up raving about the new menu with its renewed focus on seafood. The bar area and building have been given the thumbs up too.

Dark chocolate mousse 85g extra bittersweet chocolate, chopped ½C heavy cream ¼C whole milk

www.9thavewaterside.co.za

Mint and apple sorbet 2T sugar small bunch mint 6 – 8 apples, quartered and juiced to make 850ml ½ lemon, juiced

Lunch: Tuesday to Sunday 12:00 to 14:30. Dinner: Tuesday to Saturday 18:00 to 21:30.

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PEPPERMINT CRISP FOREST INGREDIENTS Peppermint mousse 2½C cream 4 peppermint tea bags 215ml sugar 475ml milk 6 egg yolks 2 leaves gelatine, soaked

Garnish chocolate biscuits toasted almond flakes mint chiffonade METHOD Peppermint mousse 1 Infuse 1C cream, tea bags and 15ml sugar together. 2 In a separate bowl beat 1 ½C cream and 75ml milk until thick but soft. 3 Boil 400ml milk and prepare the peppermint tea infusion.

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41 9TH AVENUE WATERSIDE

4 Beat egg yolks and 125ml sugar until thick. 5 Add boiling milk and tea and add to egg yolk and sugar mix. 6 Add gelatine and stir over bain-marie until thick. Cool to room temperature. 7 Fold in beaten cream to egg mixture. Pour into containers to set. Dark chocolate mousse 1 Melt the chocolate in a bowl over simmering water (not touching). 2 Whip the heavy cream until it holds soft peaks. 3 Bring the milk to a boil in a small saucepan, then whisk it into the chocolate. When the milk is incorporated, whisk in the whipped cream. Transfer to a container to set.

Mint and apple sorbet 1 Put the sugar in a small pan with 150ml water. Heat until the sugar has dissolved then add the mint. 2 Leave to infuse for 20 minutes. Strain and add to the apple and lemon juice. 3 Pour into an ice-cream maker and churn to a sorbet consistency PLATING 1 Scoop both mousses into the bottom of a bowl. 2 Cover with crumbled chocolate biscuits, toasted almond flakes and mint chiffonade. 3 Sit your sorbet on top. Serves 4

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HEADING

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: CHEFS TERRANCE MORRIS, OELOF VORSTER AND DARREN BADENHORST OF LE CHÊNE.

Charné Sampson – Epice

There is exciting movement in the culinary capital of the Cape, where chef Charné Sampson, formerly of La Colombe, is heading up Epice with Scot Kirton and James Gaag. She studied at Silwood Kitchen before working at The Restaurant at Waterkloof, Myoga and The Test Kitchen. Epice, adorned in spice colours, looks well set to tantalize tastebuds with a selection of spices beyond curry – vanilla, saffron and cinnamon, in a spicy site on Heritage Square. Flavours from India, Spain, Japan, Mexico, Denmark and the US have influenced the menu. Expect wild boar chorizo, spiced quail and an icecream trolley to cleanse your palate. Opening late 2019. www.epice.co.za CLICK HERE TO BOOK

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Darren Badenhorst – Le chêne

Chef Darren Badenhorst of Le coin Français, has opened a second restaurant in Franschhoek, this time on the Leeu Estate. He trained at Christina Martin School of Food and Wine and was executive chef at Benguerra Lodge in Mozambique. After becoming the youngest executive chef in the various hotels of the Three Cities hotel group Darren took the helm of The Restaurant at Grande Provence in Franschhoek. Here he became well known with an emphasis on his attention to detail in plating. Darren opened Le coin Français in 2017 and has made a name for himself as an innovative chef, the restaurant being awarded a plate for excellent cuisine in both the 2019 and 2020 JHP Gourmet Guides. www.lechene.co.za/restaurant Open seven days a week. Breakfast: 07:00 – 10:30, lunch: 12:00 – 14:30, dinner 19:00 – 20:30.

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45 AS THE WARMER WEATHER ARRIVES AND WE START TO DINE ALFRESCO, MEALS ARE LIGHTER, OFTEN TAKING FULL ADVANTAGE OF SUMMER’S BOUNTY. THE RULE OF SUM IS TO KEEP IT SIMPLE, SERVE FRUITS INDIVIDUALLY OR GROUP THEM TOGETHER. THE ADDITION OF SAVOURY COMPANIONS ALWAYS WORKS WELL. APPLES provide the perfect light bite au naturel, plus lending taste and texture to many salads. FIGS come into their own when you turn up the heat, filled with goats' cheese and drizzled with balsamic vinegar, wrapped in prosciutto and baked. The berries – STRAWBERRIES, RASPBERRIES, BLUEBERRIES, CHERRIES AND MULBERRIES can simply be dusted with icing sugar, blended into smoothies or baked clafoutis-style to provide a grande finale for any meal. Tropical

fruits like BANANAS, PAPAYAS, PINEAPPLES, GRANADILLAS, MANGOES AND MELONS are prolific in summer – a platter of these fruits served sliced, drizzled with your favourite tipple, is delicious. GRAPES too are versatile, and best appreciated in a glass of wine!

Stone fruits like APRICOTS, NECTARINES, PLUMS AND PEACHES are fabulous sliced in half, marinated in a little brandy and braaied. PEARS combine well with nutty flavours, and POMEGRANATES add life and colour to many salads. WATERMELONS are best served on the beach where the juice can drizzle down your chin before a bracing swim!

Summer bounty HAUTE INGREDIENTS

The Gourmet Guide launch Photographs by Anne Marais, KA photographer and Keagan Petersen

was a celebratory affair

TAKE A BEHIND-THE-SCENES PEEK AT THE PRIVATE FUNCTION THAT CHEFS ENJOYED FROM BEGINNING TO END. The annual announcement of SA’s plated restaurants and awarded chefs, and launch of the 2020 JHP Gourmet Guide™, provided an opportunity for chefs to celebrate their commitment to excellence, together. KitchenAid Africa hosted the event at their new, state-of-the-art experiential kitchen in Paarden Eiland, and each awarded chef and restaurant left, elated and ecstatic, with a KitchenAid artisanal mixer. For many chefs it was their day off, so it was vital that the day was designed to reward them. Whilst sipping Delaire Graff Estate’s Sunrise MCC and Rosé, Summercourt Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz, they caught up with colleagues and made new friends. Some said ‘cheers’ with La Chouffe from the

Belgian Beer Company. Others, with San Pellegrino’s water and soft drinks keeping them cool or illy coffee hotting things up, congratulated their peers and mentors, all in a truly relaxed and congratulatory mood. Bertus Basson gave the chefs exactly what they love devouring in down time – juicy burgers from his De Vrije Burger restaurant in Stellenbosch, served on beautiful Mervyn Gers Ceramics plates. Others sampled Italian fare from Italian Deli Online plus tasty pizza, and delectable, decadent waffles. It was a happy, memorable occasion. ABALOBI announced their first-ever Provenance awards, given to three pioneers paving the way in terms of sustainability and responsibility. Swiss International Air Lines presented their SWISS Culinary Innovation Award – all this after 36 plated restaurants were announced, plus five Haute Performance chefs became award winners. A fabulous day was had by all.

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Made to last the crème de la crème

Mervyn Gers of Mervyn Gers Ceramics pays equal attention to the four cornerstones of the business – quality, creativity, sustainability, (supporting local) and durability. As the business has expanded there has been more emphasis on creating ranges that can stand up to the harsh demands of a restaurant kitchen. “We make our own clay to ensure quality control. Our original recipe, developed with a Dutch ceramic expert, has evolved. We have invested in impact-testing equipment for on-site testing.”

Every year Mervyn and his team create bespoke plates for the plated restaurants, and this year their creativity knew no bounds as they produced the unique fermentation vessels for award winners. These were given to the crème de la crème chefs – the three three-plated restaurants who have held this honour for three consecutive years – Scot Kirton and James Gaag of La Colombe, Luke Dale Roberts of The Test Kitchen and Chantal Dartnall of Mosaic. Liam Tomlin, for having three plated restaurants this year, joined the esteemed quartet.

“A glaze expert assists with our unique, specially-made glazes to ensure that durability, and that glaze and clay body fit together. The Department of Chemical Engineering as UCT has been assisting us over the past year to increase the strength and durability of our clay and this has been done scientifically. We have done various impact tests and the strength of our products is above international standards,” says Mervyn proudly.

Time is often the best ingredient, and success we know is not realised overnight. These chefs set a fine example to those entering the industry. The five Haute Performance winners – Giles Edwards, Carolize Coetzee, Reuben Riffel, The Faber team and Bertus Basson – were also given fermentation vessels. They are popular for making kimchi, a traditional Korean dish growing in popularity all around the world. www.mervyngers.com

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WIN! A BEAUTIFUL FERMENTATION VESSEL FROM MERVYN GERS CERAMICS See the competitions page on our website for details.

Rewarding innovation There was unanimous applause when Peter Tempelhoff, founder and MD of FYN was announced as the worthy winner of the third SWISS Culinary Innovation Award. His Japanese-inspired restaurant opened in November 2018, with chef Ashley Moss and Jennifer Hugé making up the impressive trio. He is also Culinary Director of Ellerman House, and a global ambassador for the Relais & Châteaux group. Peter was previously at Greenhouse, CellarsHohenort Hotel, for 11 years. He is highly respected by fellow chefs and a mentor and inspiration to numerous chefs. There are many ways of evaluating innovation, in addition to considering the pillars of the SWISS brand – creativity, effort, efficiency, passion, accuracy, precision and sustainability. The JHP Gourmet Guide™ and plate rating benchmarks talent against

globally-iconic chefs and restaurants. Through research far and wide, with constant questioning, we ask what is the world wanting? Diners want fine-dining quality without always committing to a multi-course meal. Smaller portions, fewer ingredients, higher quality. Lighter is now de rigueur. The traditional kaiseki dinner is a multiple-course Japanese meal in which provenance, respect and presentation play equal roles, three values that this iconic chef is renowned for. Peter Tempelhoff of FYN conceptualized a condensed, three-course experience that is unique, experiential and exciting, a perfect marriage of Japanese and indigenous Cape flavours. Congratulations to Peter, who, with return business-class tickets to Europe on Swiss International Air Lines for himself and his partner, will make the most of the experience, luxury all the way.

HAUTE PERFORMANCE

Partners in provenance Provenance – ‘something’s origin, the source, but is also defined as the ‘history of ownership of a valued object’.

BERTUS BASSON

CHRISTIAAN CAMPBELL

ABAL BI HOO OM

COO

www . abalobi . org

NANDA CARDOSO

HAUTE PERFORMANCE

The JHP Gourmet Guide™ was proud to partner with ABALOBI for the 2020 Provenance Awards. Within a context of rapid environmental (including climate) and social change, many chefs in South Africa source their ingredients with careful attention to either or both ecological and social challenges, as well as new opportunities. They re-connect with their surrounding gardens and farms, reach out to, and support regional farming and fishing communities in their ‘farm to table’, ‘boat to plate’ restaurants. It creates a shared understanding of the importance of local, shorter and low-impact supply chains, and sustainability.

chains, and community cohesion and entrepreneurship as important precursors to launching longer-term ecological improvement. For more information visit www.abalobi.org.

ABALOBI is an African-based, fisherdriven social enterprise with global reach. Their mission is to contribute towards thriving, equitable and sustainable small-scale fishing communities in South Africa and beyond, through the joint development of technology. Their approach focuses on responsibility, and impact through innovation, driven by a suite of mobile apps, that relate to seafood traceability, fully documented fisheries, fair and transparent supply

BERTUS BASSON OF EIKE, OVERTURE, SPEK & BONE AND DE VRIJE BURGER: CHAMPION.

Three outstanding chefs have gone the extra mile in demonstrating dedication to the importance of provenance, and thereby creating change. NANDA CARDOSO OF CHEF’S WAREHOUSE & CANTEEN: INFLUENCER. This young pioneer is articulating, actioning and inspiring others to follow. Her ability to influence has been measured in terms of reach and impact.

A legendary chef who is hands-on, practising provenance in a tangible fashion in each of his five restaurants. CHRISTIAAN CAMPBELL OF THE WERF RESTAURANT: ADVOCATE. Here is an activist who is leading by example to create awareness and inspire change.

HAUTE PERFORMANCE

59 Whilst studying at the Hotel School in Granger Bay, he interned at the Arabella Westin and discovered his love of food, before a stint in a corporate kitchen, on the yachts and at Nobu. Virgil has been an integral part of Indochine’s success since it opened its doors in 2010. “Some chefs move around to get better, but I want to be in one place, this place, and be consistent in what I do. I need to challenge myself to be different,” he proudly states.

Haute chef haute news – Indochine raises its name

MEET THE LATEST ADDITION TO THE ESTEEMED UPPER ECHELON OF CHEFS IN SA – VIRGIL KAHN, EXECUTIVE CHEF OF THREEPLATED AFRO-INDIAN INDOCHINE RESTAURANT ON DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE. Looking out over the rim-flow pool in your private lodge with a glass of Delaire Graff wine in hand is one perfect way to work up an appetite for dining at the jewel of the estate. Others include a wine tasting or innovative treatment at the world-class spa.

Virgil Kahn is a man of contrasts. Serious yet adventurous, creative yet intellectual, he has an innate ability to exquisitely marry Cape flavours with Asian. His dishes are simple yet complex, ingenious and multi-sensory. In his words, “It looks good first, but once you start eating, it needs to be different. It needs to be new. It is unconventional, it opens your mind.” This accomplished chef was brought up in Bonteheuwel in Cape Town, where his talent of working with his hands became evident in carpentry.

HAUTE NEWS

His inspiration comes from the overwhelming visual splendour of Delaire Graff Estate, the vineyards, gardens, mountains and art. Virgil’s mantra is, “Be the best in that moment.” It shows on every plate and in every mouthful. He is a voracious reader, a pastime that has contributed to the intellectual side of his art and has given him an understanding of all cuisines.

each day, that will represent all that is freshly picked on the estate. The green tea-leaf salad is an explosion of flavours, the cured yellowtail and coconut turmeric ice with a cos lettuce salad (picked from Virgil’s garden at home) is piquant. Traditional Cape ingredients, like snoek and waterblommetjies, are perfectly blended with ponzu to create an unforgettable dish. A mango dessert with crispy lavender, white cardamom cream and curry leaf could end your epicurean journey with a crescendo. Enjoy it under a breathtaking art installation of 1000 swallows, with the majestic mountain as a backdrop.

Virgil adopts a variety of cooking methods and embraces the full spectrum of international flavours, “We are cooking global,” he claims. After stopping to admire perfect plating, guests are immediately entranced by the unapologetically bold Asian aromas. The fragrance of lemongrass, coriander, galangal, yuzu, ginger, chilli and other tantalizing scents seduce you. Salt and pepper are not complex enough for this inventive chef; the use of Asian ingredients make more sense for him. Extraordinary combinations are his trademark. Expect the unexpected in the trio of amuse bouche, different HAUTE NEWS

CLICK HERE TO BOOK

WIN! LUNCH FOR TWO AT INDOCHINE See the competitions page on our website for details.

LIAM TOMLIN IS ONE OF THE CHEFS ACKNOWLEDGED AS THE CRÈME DE LA CRÈME IN THE 2020 JHP GOURMET GUIDE™, FOR HAVING THREE PLATED RESTAURANTS. NOW HE WISHES TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE. When he talks about his latest project, ‘Mind your Backs’, his eyes light up. Three years ago, having agreed to help the Reach for a Dream Foundation facilitate a teenage girl’s dream of being a chef, he invited her to work with his team, in her specially embroidered chef jacket, cooking for a gala dinner. Sadly, she passed away recently. It fuelled Liam’s determination to make a difference for others. The restaurant industry is a gruelling one, stressful with high pressure and long hours, and many chefs seek solace in alcohol, drugs and can become addicted. In addition, there are restaurant staff in South Africa who face significant socio-economic related issues such as domestic violence, alltoo-common assault, and supporting extended families, adding to an already intolerable burden. Despite their acknowledged culinary talent, many

aspirant young chefs have never had the necessary training to equip them for managing people and businesses, and their behaviour can and does lead to heightened tensions in the kitchen. Liam has harnessed the support of other top chefs, like Luke Dale Roberts, and business people, to register a NPC called ‘Mind your Backs’, to alleviate these challenges. The foundation offers a proactive, responsive and responsible programme that aims to materially improve the mental health of the South African restaurant industry. ‘Mind Your Backs’ will offer access and referral to, and remedial treatment by, the right professional mental health specialist at the right time. It will balance the need for immediate, reactive crisis intervention for the individual with the longer-term goal of preventative training and leadership programmes for the broader industry. The ‘Mind Your Backs’ foundation, currently in its infancy stage, aims to ultimately offer practical, medical and financial assistance.

HEADING

LIAM TOMLIN, LUKE DALE ROBERTS AND THEIR HEAD CHEFS PLANNING THE WAY FORWARD.

63 AS YOU SAVOUR YOUR FIRST GLASS OF A LA CHOUFFE BEER, YOU MAY PICTURE A FAIRY OR A DWARF. IT ALL STARTED IN THE VALLÉE DES FÉES (VALLEY OF THE FAIRIES) IN THE LATE 1970S WHEN TWO BROTHERSIN-LAW BEGAN TO BREW THEIR OWN BEER IN THE ONE’S GARAGE. THEY STARTED WHAT IS NOW KNOWN BY BEER-LOVERS WORLDWIDE AS THE ‘CHOUFFE STORY’. The first sip of an international success story started with a brew of not even 50 litres, produced in 1982 at Achouffe Brewery. At the time (and still sometimes today) characterful beers were associated with an image of an abbey and a paunchy monk… even if the drink didn’t have a religious origin. The founders of the Achouffe Brewery wanted something different, something more likeable. THE THIRSTY DWARFS

WIN! 2 X 1.5L CHOUFFE AND 6 X BRANDED GLASSES See the competitions page on our website for details.

Legendary Chouffe beer the chefs’ choice

As demand and production grew, so did the family of dwarfs. Marcel (La Chouffe) and Malcolm (Mc Chouffe) were joined by Matthew (Houblon Chouffe) and Micheline (Cherry Chouffe)! Each dwarf with its unique personality represents a unique beer. La Chouffe, with a somewhat hoppy flavour, a taste of fresh coriander and fruits, seems to be the reason for their joie de vivre and shared joy of the origin of the Belgian Ardennes. Each dwarf is distinctive – Malcolm with a lilt in his voice, in his kilt, who chooses the rich ruby colour, touch of bitterness and robust character, reminding him of Scotland. He is known to choose

PIERRE GOBRON & CHRIS BAUWERAERTS Mc Chouffe over the blonde, gourmet sibling La Chouffe which has hints of anise, liquorice and caramel. The Houblon Chouffe combines three kinds of hops, resulting in a complex flavour. This India pale ale has an obvious bitterness and fruity notes. Sunloving dwarfs choose Chouffe Soleil, a mild and refreshing seasonal beer that boasts delicious citrus flavours, a touch of vanilla and peppery notes – radiant yet slightly cloudy. N’Ice Chouffe, a dark duo of mildness and strength, with spicy hints of thyme and curacao, beckons along with a fire when winter arrives. Little Marcel loves Chouffe Bok 6666 as much as he adores the view of the Valley of the Fairies. The cherry on the top? A radiant glow and fruity flavour make Cherry Chouffe a favourite with all the dwarfs, who choose the lure of juicy cherries transformed into a delectable beer. Look out for the 2020 edition of BIG CHOUFFE, the 130,000 bottles in this unique collection feature a screenprinted label designed by Bram De Baere.

LEGENDARY CHOUFFE BEER

CHEESE BOARD INGREDIENTS 200g Brie cheese, paired with La Chouffe 150g goats’ cheese, paired with Houblon Chouffe 150g Gorgonzola cheese, paired with Cherry Chouffe grapes figs in syrup melba toast or toasted French toast PLATING 1 Place pieces of cheese on a large plate. Scatter with grapes, dollops of figs and pieces of melba toast on the side. 2 Pair each cheese with recommended beer. Serves 4 SALMON BEURRE BLANC

SERVING, PAIRING, ENJOYING… Serve between 6 and 10 C. La Chouffe is best served in the 33cl tulip-shaped glass.

SALMON BEURRE BLANC

It is best paired with vegetables fennel, broccoli, asparagus, and loves spending time with fish and seafood like salmon, tuna, lobster, mussels and spicy sushi. That’s not all – let it be savoured with chicken, quail, rice, mustard sauce, fresh coriander and chives, melons and the ultimate – unpasteurized cheese.

INGREDIENTS Salmon 1kg salmon fillet, portioned into 4 equal pieces Mash potatoes 900g potatoes, peeled for a potato mash 200ml milk salt and pepper to taste Beurre blanc sauce 200ml La Chouffe 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 200ml cream 150g butter, cut into blocks salt and pepper to taste

Spinach remaining onion from beurre blanc sauce 500g baby spinach knob of butter METHOD Salmon 1 Sear salmon in a hot pan. 2 Place in an oven of 180°C for 5 minutes and set aside. Mash potatoes 1 Cut up peeled potatoes, boil in salted water until soft. 2 Drain and mash with milk, add salt and pepper and lastly, a touch of butter. Beurre blanc sauce 1 Reduce the beer over medium heat with half the chopped onions, until half the volume of liquid is left in the pot. 2 Add the cream and reduce again to half the starting volume. 3 Cool down for a minute and slowly whisk in the butter, add salt and pepper to taste. Spinach 1 Fry the onion in a pan with a nob of butter until golden brown. 2 Add the baby spinach and fry till al dente. PLATING Place the spinach in the centre of the plate and place the salmon on top. Place mash next to the spinach and drizzle the salmon with the beurre blanc sauce. Enjoy with a cold La Chouffe. Serves 4

LEGENDARY CHOUFFE BEER

Image by Georgia East

A few of my favourite things

The Gourmet Guide caught up with Malu Lambert, who was recently crowned the Louis Roederer and Mont Blanc Emerging Wine Writer of the Year 2019, making SA proud. THE EVENT LOOKED GLAMOROUS AND EXCITING. TELL US ABOUT IT.

I got to connect with my wine writing hero, Jancis Robinson.

The awards were held at Royal Academy of Arts in London, it was a fittingly glamorous affair attended by the world’s most revered wine writers. Champagne Louis Roederer was the pouring Champagne, of course, and

THIS MUST BE THE HIGHLIGHT OF YOUR CAREER. HOW DID IT START? I worked as a waiter to pay for my studies. This saw me going overseas at one point where I worked in a high-

HAUTE FAVOURITES

end London restaurant. Every Friday we tasted wines from all over the world at ‘Table 17’, and soon I not only fell in love with wine itself, but also the storytelling aspect of it. I came home and studied journalism, while working as an intern at Good Taste magazine while still waitering—I worked all night, wrote all day! Upon graduating I was offered a job at Good Taste as a writer, and from there I pushed myself to achieve. I worked at a few other publications before going freelance, and then in 2015 I won the title of Veritas Young Wine Writer. Currently I’m the wine editor for Food & Home Entertaining, and I contribute to Sawubona, Jancis Robinson, Winemag. co.za, Wines of South Africa, Winelands, wine.co.za, Cape Talk and more. I also run a copywriting agency called, FABLE. WHAT DO YOU BELIEVE ARE THE INGREDIENTS FOR BEING AN AWARD-WINNING WINE WRITER? You must be strategic in where you place your work. And I know this is unpopular these days, but be willing to work for free. All my big breaks have come from writing something for a publication that didn’t pay me for it. Why should they take a chance on you, an unknown writer, if you’re not willing to take a chance yourself? Don’t just write for some random blog, but identify where you want to be—and move mountains to get there. Another thing you must realise is that writing is hard, even after professionally writing now for over a decade, every time I sit in front of my screen it’s a challenge; because

I’m always pushing myself to be better, to think deeper—as soon as you think writing is easy, you aren’t doing a good job. And that kind of daily punishment is not for everyone! SOUTH AFRICAN WINES CAN HOLD THEIR OWN ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD, WHAT OTHER COUNTRIES COMPETE FOR YOUR LOVE OF THE VINE? I am so proud of South African wines; I wish the world knew our full story. I love French Chardonnay; I’ll never say no to a bottle of Puligny-Montrachet and a plate of oysters! I also recently tasted a range of amphora wines from Portugal that totally blew me away. WHAT ARE YOUR WINES OF CHOICE FOR DRINKING IN YOUR DOWN TIME? I’m mad about light-bodied reds, Swartland Cinsault in particular. Or the uniquely textured semillons our country makes, Boekenhoutskloof and Damascene are making some amazing examples. I also really enjoyed Jessica Saurwein’s Chi Riesling recently. SUMMER IS THE SEASON FOR…. Palomino, watch this space, I think it’s going to be the next big thing. Look out for Blackwater Wines, Kruger Wines and Fairview who are all making it. WHAT’S NEXT? Well… I’m going to be working on a book! An exciting opportunity has come my way, and I’m excited to get started. I’m also currently furthering my wine education with a Diploma in WSET.

HAUTE FAVOURITES

68 Soweto-born chef Wandi Mabaso of Les Créatifs is known as South Africa’s French cuisine ambassador. He spent a decade travelling the world, working alongside many famous French chefs such as the legendary Alain Ducasse.

69 FESTIVE DISH?

TIME OF THE DAY?

Difficult to answer that, many dishes are favourable depending on the season and weather, but since my favourite cuisine to eat is Indian, my favourite is a lamb curry.

Between 2am and 4am, that’s when everyone is sleeping, and everything is silent. That’s when I get my best creative ideas.

PLACE OF RELAXATION?

“You are only as good as your last dish.”

Anywhere out of the city where I can be surrounded by nature and animals, no industrial noise. This helps me switch off and relax.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT?

READ? The Wine Bible by Karen MacNeil. TRAVEL DESTINATION? I have travelled and lived in many places, but I would like to travel throughout South America, in particular Peru.

HAUTE FAVOURITES

QUOTE?

The opening of our unique restaurant Les Créatifs. CANNOT LIVE WITHOUT? Probably my phone, it’s terrible, I know. FOOD HERO? My mentor, Alain Ducasse. COOKBOOK? The Art of Fermentation.

HAUTE FAVOURITES

Eat, write, repeat Would you like to be a gourmet writer?

IF YOU LOVE FOOD, AND LOVE WRITING, WHY NOT MARRY YOUR TWO PASSIONS INTO AN INCOMEGENERATING REVENUE STREAM? This was the invitation that whet the appetites of a financial advisor, a chef, a photographer, company director and interior designer who gathered for a day of inspiration. The inaugural, introductory Gourmet Guide food writing course was a unanimous success. This unique course will now be available online from January 2020. It will galvanise you into action and get you writing. It covers the vital aspects of food writing that include content, vocabulary, interviews and reviews, culinary terms and recipe writing, self-editing, mediums plus personal marketing.

EAT RIGHT, THEN EAT AND WRITE Award-winning food and travel writer, global restaurant reviewer Jenny Handley, will help you build the foundation that is essential for becoming a respected and published professional scribe. Curator of the award-winning JHP Gourmet Guide™ that features and awards South Africa’s top restaurants with plates, Jenny’s passion lies with food and travel. It’s this passion that she will use as the vehicle to unleash your ability to write about yours.

Each of the seven modules will have a video introduction, slides and comprehensive information. Participants will complete assignments for each module, and after successful assessment and completion, will receive a certificate. Top candidates will enjoy the opportunity of writing for the Gourmet Guide online magazine. In addition to an insatiable appetite for food and knowledge, good English writing and computer skills, and access to e-mail and the internet, are essential. HAUTE SKILLS

HAUTE SKILLS

Jenny has interviewed iconic chefs and reviewed restaurants on almost every continent. She continually updates her formal food qualifications (food technology and nutrition) all over the world. Author of a series of bestselling business books, brand strategist and trainer, it’s time for Jenny to help you expand your career. For enquiries or to apply visit www.gourmetguide.co.za.

Haute reads

Delicious food that just happens to be meat-free

From Naked to nutritious, from 15 to 30-minute wonders to five ingredients, much-loved TV and celebrity chef Jamie Oliver always dishes up delicious. His latest repertoire of recipes, his first-ever vegetable-based book, is as appealing as all the others. Jamie sings the praises of the humble veg, loudly, with bright visuals and accessible ingredients. He wants everyone, not just vegetarians, to embrace the plant platform. His goodlooking cooking inspiration comes from all over the globe – there is not a soggy, wilted lettuce from London in sight! Instead, the mouth-watering dishes between these hard covers may convert even the most hardened carnivore into a vegetable-loving cook. From his Wonderful veg tagine to My veggie moussaka and the Roasted tomato risotto…turn the pages and change your ways. Available in bookstores at R430.

1 Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/gas 4. With a knife, cut the cores out of the tomatoes, then place cut side down in a snug-fitting baking dish with the whole garlic bulb, and scatter over the thyme sprigs. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon of oil, season with sea salt, and roast for 1 hour, or until starting to burst open (the juices will add game-changing flavour later on).

ROASTED TOMATO RISOTTO SWEET FENNEL, CRISPY THYME, GARLIC, VERMOUTH, PARMESAN Serves 6 Total time: 1 hour 6 large ripe tomatoes 1 bulb of garlic ½ a bunch of fresh thyme (15g) olive oil 1.2 litres organic vegetable stock 1 onion 1 bulb of fennel 2 knobs of unsalted butter 450g Arborio risotto rice 150ml dry white vermouth 80g Parmesan cheese

2 Bring the stock to a simmer. Peel and finely chop the onion and fennel, reserving any herby tops, then place in a large, high-sided pan on a medium heat with 1 tablespoon of oil and 1 knob of butter. Cook for 10 minutes, or until softened but not coloured, stirring occasionally, then stir in the rice to toast for 2 minutes. Pour in the vermouth and stir until absorbed. Add a ladleful of stock and wait until it’s been fully absorbed before adding another, stirring constantly and adding ladlefuls of stock until the rice is cooked – it will need 16 to 18 minutes. Beat in the remaining knob of butter, finely grate and beat in the Parmesan, then season to perfection and turn the heat off. Cover the pan and leave to relax for 2 minutes so the risotto becomes creamy and oozy.

Veg by Jamie Oliver is published by Penguin Random House © Jamie Oliver Enterprises Limited (2019 Veg). Photography: David Loftus.

3 Divide the risotto between warm plates, place a tomato in the centre with a little sweet garlic and the herby fennel tops, then drizzle over the tasty tomato juices.

WIN!

To make vegetarian: swap Parmesan for vegetarian hard cheese. TIP: Squeezing the smooth, mild garlic out of its skin after roasting adds a delicious bonus flavour to the risotto.

ONE OF TWO COPIES See the competitions page on our website for details.

HAUTE READS

ENERGY

FAT

SAT FAT

PROTEIN

CARBS

SUGARS

SALT

FIBRE

507kcal

15.3g

6.9g

13.6g

77.7g

7.6g

0.7g

5.3g

75 MY VEGGIE MOUSSAKA SWEET TOMATO, GRILLED AUBERGINES, CREAMY PORCINI & FETA SAUCE

WONDERFUL VEG TAGINE SAFFRON, PRESERVED LEMONS, APRICOTS, FLUFFY COUSCOUS & TOASTED ALMONDS

Serves 8 Total time: 2 hours

Serves 6 Total time: 1 hour

40g dried porcini mushrooms 2 onions 8 cloves of garlic olive oil ½ a cinnamon stick 1 bunch of fresh oregano (30g) 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 large aubergines (400g each) 1kg potatoes 2 x 400g tins of quality plum tomatoes 200g feta cheese 2 large free-range eggs 500ml semi-skimmed milk 1 whole nutmeg, for grating

1 pinch of saffron 4 cloves of garlic 4cm piece of ginger olive oil 1 teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ras el hanout 1 tablespoon sun-dried tomato paste 2.5kg mixed veg, such as aubergines, courgettes, carrots, cherry tomatoes, red onion, butternut squash, mixed-colour peppers 1 x 400g tin of chickpeas 100g dried apricots 1 preserved lemon 300g couscous ½ a bunch of mixed fresh herbs, such as dill, mint, flat-leaf parsley (15g) 20g flaked almonds

the mushrooms. Scrunch the tomatoes into the pan, then pour in 1 tin’s worth of water and leave to tick away on a medium heat for 30 minutes, stirring regularly. Preheat the oven to 200ºC/400ºF/gas 6.

1 Cover the porcini with 500ml of boiling water. Peel and finely slice the onions and garlic. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of oil into a large casserole pan over a medium-low heat, add the cinnamon and fry for 1 minute, then add the onion and garlic. Pick in the oregano leaves, pour in the vinegar, then simmer with the lid on for 20 minutes, or until soft and lightly golden, stirring regularly. Meanwhile, slice the aubergines lengthways 1cm thick, then chargrill in batches on a griddle pan. 2 Scrub the potatoes and slice 1cm thick, then add to the casserole pan with just the porcini water, reserving

3 Place the mushrooms in a blender with half the feta and the eggs. Pour in the milk, finely grate in half the nutmeg, then whiz until smooth. Season the tomato sauce to perfection with sea salt and black pepper, then spoon half into a 25cm x 35cm baking dish. Cover with half the aubergines, drizzle over 4 tablespoons of creamy sauce, then repeat, finishing with the remaining creamy sauce. Crumble over the rest of the feta, then bake for 40 minutes, or until golden and bubbling. 4 Delicious served with a simple lemony dressed green salad. TIP: Sometimes I swap the feta for grated halloumi. Ribbons of courgette grilled with the aubergine are very nice, too.

large chunks, adding them to the pan as you go. Tip in the chickpeas (juices and all), roughly chop and add the apricots and preserved lemon, discarding any pips, then season with sea salt and black pepper. Bring to the boil, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 45 minutes, or until tender, stirring occasionally. 2 When the veg are almost tender, just cover the couscous with boiling water, season with salt and pepper and pop a plate on top. Leave for 10 minutes, then fluff and fork up. Pick the herb leaves and toast the almonds. Serve the tagine and couscous sprinkled with the almonds and herbs. 3 Delicious served with harissa rippled yoghurt. TIP: In the summer I grow most of these vegetables, and I’m always eager to pick, wash and race to cook this dish – the flavour is just extraordinary with tender, delicate veg.

1 Put the saffron into a jug, cover with 500ml of boiling water and leave to infuse. Meanwhile, peel and finely slice the garlic and ginger, then place in a large casserole pan over a medium heat with 2 tablespoons of oil, the cumin, cinnamon and ras el hanout. Add the tomato paste, fry for a few minutes, stirring regularly, then pour over the saffron water. Trim and prep the veg, as necessary, then chop into

ENERGY

FAT

SAT FAT

PROTEIN

CARBS

SUGARS

SALT

FIBRE

ENERGY

FAT

SAT FAT

PROTEIN

CARBS

SUGARS

SALT

FIBRE

311kcal

11.6g

5.2g

14.6g

40g

13.4g

0.8g

5.6g

438kcal

9.6g

1.4g

16.3g

77.6g

27.7g

15.8g

Watch out for the autumn edition of the Gourmet Guide

Let us tell your story. To expose your brand to our haute audience contact us on rsvp@jhpr.co.za www.gourmetguide.co.za Terms and conditions for competitions

• All competitions featured in this issue will run until 29 February 2020. • Winners will be selected at random and will be contacted by 5 March 2020. • Gourmet Guide magazine reserves the right to publish names of the winners. • Competitions are open to SA residents only. • Prizes are not transferable or exchangeable and cannot be redeemed for cash. • Employees and contractors to Jenny Handley Performance Management cc, and their immediate family members, are not eligible to enter. • Jenny Handley Performance Management cc cannot be held responsible for any errors, omissions and/or technical failures throughout this promotion.