journeys of flavour MAGAZINE SPRING 2019
HAUTE
TRAVEL PROPERTY CUISINE FAVOURITES READS PRODUCTS
Barefoot with Blumenthal
Reunion catch of the day
real, relaxed and rustic
Contents
Amuse bouche
THERE IS SPRING IN MY STEP THE MINUTE THE BUDS START TO BLOSSOM AND THE BIRDS START TO CHIRP. I THEN GET EXCITED ABOUT THE FRESH PRODUCE THAT IS ABOUT TO PRESENT ITSELF IN MY GARDEN, BEGGING TO BE GENTLY TRANSFORMED INTO SALADS AND LESS ROBUST DISHES THAN I HAVE BEEN DEVOURING THROUGHOUT WINTER.
Amuse bouche
Welcome from the editor 3
Haute travel
Reunion – real, relaxed and rustic 4 Barefoot with Blumenthal 20
Haute property
The Werf – living the life – real sustainability 24 Babylonstoren – juice jamming 30 The bright side of Coobs 34 Faber 38
Haute cuisine
Rated chefs from the 2019 JHP Gourmet Guide™ share their recipes 44
Haute ingredients
What’s fresh and in season 56 Gourmet garden 58
Haute performance
ABALOBI – catch of the day 66 Stress, distress or eustress? 64
Haute favourites
A epicurean writer shares a few of his favourite things 68
Haute reads
My Vegetarian Braai by Adele Maartens 70
Haute products
Mervyn Gers Ceramics 74
Content and contributors • Jenny Handley • Natalie Brock • Wilna Combrinck • Anne Marais • Kristen Brock • Nthabeleng Meso • Jehan Scello Contact details P.O. Box 32216, Camps Bay, 8040 +27 437 0334 | rsvp@jhpr.co.za www.gourmetguide.co.za jhp_gourmet_guide jenny_handley Jenny Handley Performance Management Stock images from unsplash.com
Our review season for the printed 2020 JHP Gourmet Guide™ that showcases South Africa’s plated restaurants has closed. How exciting to announce that there will be more plated restaurants than ever before, indicative of how hard restaurants and chefs are working at upping their games. The printed guide will be further refined, with only plated restaurants featured – so the good news is that rated restaurants and their chefs’ recipes will appear in this online magazine each quarter. As chefs have to have held their positions from 1 January 2019 to be eligible for a plating, we can introduce you to the newest chefs regularly, plus report on restaurants that are not open to the public – watch out for our December edition for some tasty sleepovers! Talking of blossoms, imagine my joy when returning from a life-changing trip to Japan, my son crafted a cherry-blossom gin for me. Named by my sister-in-law, in memory of my darling mother who loved pink, floral and her daily tot, it is called Mother’s Pride. Win a bottle of this limited range in this issue – or order your own personalised range! You can also win a copy of My Vegetarian Braai by Adele Maartens, a collection of recipes that may want you to say farewell to meat as you celebrate spring around the braai and an ostrich egg platter with platinum fill from Mervyn Gers Ceramics.
This issue started with a sustainability focus, and during lengthy and stimulating debate, our team discovered that it means different things for different people. Some chefs focus purely on provenance, others on the responsibility of sustaining the people who work for them. It became evident that we needed to simply give you food for thought; to simply open the lid for internal debate on sustainability, reducing waste, alleviating stress and improving wellbeing and skills creation. The nuggets of knowledge that have been shared by chef Christiaan Campbell, ceramicist Mervyn Gers, HR director Jehan Scello, ABALOBI advocate Serge Raegemakers, chef and student Nthabeleng Meso, may be the catalyst we need to change our minds before we change our ways. We hope so. As you are contemplating the challenge of your bikini and beachwear (I swear they shrink in storage, needing sun to stay the same size?) why not travel with me to Reunion? Still feeling a little undiscovered, it offered a plethora of pleasure and natural beauty, worth a visit. It’s time to spring into step and get cooking – we hope that you enjoy the recipes that have been shared by our chefs, tested in their own kitchens, for your pleasure. Share the results by tagging us on Instagram @jhp_gourmet_guide.
Jenny Handley
Images by Jenny Handley
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Reunion – real, relaxed and rustic
Being married to an avid scuba diver means that Jenny Handley has been to many tropical islands. Her recent visit to Reunion was different to any other.
If you are expecting rows of regimental loungers on white beaches with waiters bearing cocktails and hawkers trawling up and down, you may be disappointed. However, if it is simplicity, nature and relaxation that you seek, then Reunion is the island for you. This is not a wall-to-wall resort island; it is uncommercial and uncomplicated. After a mere three-hour flight from Johannesburg to Roland Garros Airport in St Denis, capital of this French ‘department’, you’re there. Driving on the right-hand side of the road provides the first part of the adventure. Whilst highways circumvent the island, the escape routes with many roundabouts, can at first, be confusing. A few animated, bodylanguage conversations due to limited English being spoken, and we were on our way with a map drawn on a paper napkin from a kind petrol attendant. HAUTE TRAVEL
6 MY EYES CAUGHT, GLINTING IN THE SUNSHINE, THE RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX (R&C) SIGN AND I IMMEDIATELY RELAXED. THEIR CORNERSTONES OF CALM, COURTESY, COUNTRY, CHARM AND OF COURSE CUISINE, HOLD STEADFAST. WHEREVER I HAVE STAYED IN R&C PROPERTIES, FROM SOUTH AFRICA TO SRI LANKA, CORSICA TO MOROCCO AND MORE, BEING ENVELOPED INTO THE HEART AND SOUL OF A PROPERTY HAS RESULTED IN RAISING MY EXPECTATIONS. WHILE FINE GASTRONOMY MAY BE A DRAWCARD, IT IS THE PEOPLE WHO BRING A PLACE TO LIFE.
Blue Margouillat Seaview Hotel HAUTE TRAVEL
Arriving in time for breakfast meant that our introduction to the finest cuisine of the island was immediate. Minutes after a warm and ebullient welcome from co-owner Frédéric Kuhry, who has genuine and abundant hospitality pumping in his veins, I was distracted by the local art on display, a private collection that these owners have taken time and trouble to source. Both Frédéric (Maitre de Maison) and Marc Chappot (Chef de Cuisine), do R&C proud in their attention to detail. “Before the artists leave the island and find fame in salons in France,” claimed Fred, “we buy”. He then showed us to one of two villas with supreme sea views where cheeky hats, ice-cold Champagne and delectable chocolates and fruit awaited. It was hard to tear ourselves away from a suite which had every home comfort, plus the
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While fine gastronomy may be a drawcard, it is the people who bring a place to life. best Jacuzzi ever. It was here that we sipped Champagne and admired the view over the rim of a glass. For dinner on night one, bathed by a balmy-island breeze on the patio, we ordered off the á la carte menu. Foie gras, yellowfin tuna, shinny lobster and scallops were the heroes of our delectable dishes. During conversation chef Marc had explained that whilst island produce is the stalwart of their cuisine, they import high-quality ingredients to keep the discerning locals excited. In Reunion, there is no Michelin guide as in France, so they have one, two or three vanilla pods awarded to top restaurants. In South Africa we award plates to restaurants – one for excellent cuisine, two for a restaurant that demands a detour, and three for destination dining – a restaurant that is worthy of a flight. I was keen to see why three pods had been awarded to Blue Margouillat. The next morning a sumptuous breakfast of tropical fruits, French cheeses and charcuterie was followed by Fred sharing his vast knowledge HAUTE TRAVEL
of the island, scribbling on a map his invaluable info, to guarantee a good time. Having heard that the smaller volcano in the south was currently erupting, booking a helicopter ride was no longer a ‘should we’, but a ‘now’. One of Fred’s essential tips was that the 600m walk into the little town of Saint-Leu below the hotel would be leisurely, but the return walk steep and challenging. He laughingly told us to drive. An even lazier afternoon at the heated pool followed, our only movements to sip on delicious cocktails and tuck into a piquant prawn and cabbage salad. Sunset with Champagne in the Jacuzzi brought a perfect day to a close. The anticipation was building for a surprise dinner, to be prepared by Marc and his team, with the invitation to enter the kitchen ‘like family’ at any time. What a treat. Prawns on a cauliflower purée flavoured with citrus fruits – lime, lemon, pomelo, orange, topped with hazel nuts and cress, were delicious. Next red tuna with a foie gras foam, the local wild (sweet) asparagus and
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11 pine nuts. The local fish took our breath away – gently cooked in olive oil, local saffron and basil at 63°C for 20 minutes, served with lobster and chou-chou on a bed of the most delicate coconut and ginger sauce. A small yet memorable glass dish of cep-mushroom soup topped with chorizo, heavenly. Pigeon from Piton St Leu, in a white pepper and peanut crust, was tender and delicious. The selection from a cheese trolley and a tangy pineapple dessert brought a series of surprises to a close. Artistry of plating, a light hand with spices and true talent for creating superior sauces substantiated the reputation for fine gastronomy that this property has earned, along with its three vanilla pods in the Kaspro Guide. Definitely worthy of my flight! Sommelier Vanessa, who grew up on the island, led us through an unforgettable wine pairing and played interpreter (my French is non-existent). She took us into her cellar after dinner to admire her ever-growing, handpicked collection of predominantly French and South African wines. She had also commentated on the captivating production of our dishes when we had a few sneak peeks into the kitchen to watch Marc and his team at play. It was with heartfelt thanks, reluctance and indelible memories that we took our leave of our new ‘family’ and this enchanting property for the second leg of our Reunion adventure. Her magic, mysteries and magnificence beckoned.
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Lux* Saint Gilles
A five-star resort that is free of formality, Lux is poised on the west coast on a stretch of beach that fringes the lagoon. UPON ARRIVAL AT LUX* SAINT GILLES THE ‘TREE OF WISHES’ CAUGHT MY EYE. IT IS BRIGHTLY ADORNED WITH COLOURED TAGS THAT STATE SANTE (HEALTH), HAPPINESS AND LUCK. LIKE MANY OTHERS BEFORE ME, I SIMPLY WROTE MY DETAILS ON THE BACK OF ONE AND HUNG IT IN THE TREE. (SOME LUCKY SOUL WILL RETURN TO THIS RESORT, OR THEIR EQUALLY ENCHANTING RESORTS ON THE ISLANDS OF SEYCHELLES AND MALDIVES, MAYBE ME…). The welcome and the sea breeze were equally warm. Here service is laid-back and discreet, ensuring that guests are left to chillax. A five-star resort that is free of formality, Lux is poised on the west coast on a stretch of beach that fringes the lagoon. It is here that holidaymakers enjoy safe swimming within the coral reef, snorkeling, kayaking and stand-up paddling. The snorkeling was easy, two steps from the sand into the crystal-clear water to see parrot fish, pipe fish and a plethora of other vividly-hued fish. Whilst quiet and peaceful, a few beach bars and restaurants add to
the appeal, as does the absence of retail activity on sands as with so many tropical islands. The only ‘peddler’ was a masseur walking in the water gently tugging his bed behind him. No shouting, it was up to us to catch him if we wished to suspend ourselves over the water whilst enjoying a relaxing treatment. Our other options were to take advantage of the stylish spa at the hotel, and when feeling energetic (once!), to take advantage of the wellequipped gym. It was our preference to have early morning and late afternoon walks on the long stretch of sandy beach, the latter ended over a glass of Champagne. Stints of lying at the tranquil pool competed for our leisure time, and it was here that we worked up excellent appetites for dinner. Our first dinner was at the Creole restaurant, La Plage, a bright red-andwhite space that celebrates all that is colourful. We devoured a delicious array of spicy one-pot wonders that cemented our love of all things Creole flavoured. On another night, we shook the sand off our feet to dress up, and dined in style at L'Orangine, where a food-and-wine pairing was our choice.
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The colourful Creole cuisine is influenced by French, Indian and Chinese spices and neighbouring Madagascar. IT WAS TIME TO EXPLORE. THE HIGHLIGHT OF THIS HOLIDAY WAS THE HELICOPTER TRIP – A 45-MINUTE FLIP THAT SHOWCASED THE VERDANT GREEN FORESTS, THE MAJESTIC WATERFALLS (IN WHICH WE FLEW DOWN, CIRCLED AND CAME UP AGAIN) AND THE KILOMETRES OF UNSPOILT BEACHES. Three volcanic peaks in the centre – the Cilaos, Salazie and Mafate craters that make the island of the top 40 biodiversity hot spots globally – are surrounded by characteristic black ash, breathtaking in their naked, distinctive beauty. Down south evidence of where the volcano had erupted just two days prior, was seen in a puff of steam. The World Heritage site of craters and lava tunnels appeal to the adventurous. The Piton de la Fournaise volcano is one of the most active in the world, situated in the UNESCO-certified Reunion National Park. Most of the little towns have a market. Under vibrant hues of cloth the locals gather to sell fresh fruit and vegetables, basket ware, clothing and souvenirs. The biggest and most popular market with tourists is at Saint Paul, on Fridays from early till late, and Saturday HAUTE TRAVEL
mornings. Stocking up on the local pride of vanilla, spices, curry powder, masala and saffron is a must. There is a lively hum of activity, and even at its busiest, there is a sense of calm. Saint-Denis market is open every day except Sundays, and is known as the Madagascar market. It is advisable to go hungry, snack on fresh fruit for breakfast or sit at one of the stalls and savour local dishes for lunch. A short meander around this capital and its shops, gardens and distinctive architecture, was worth the drive. An early morning departure to the mountain village of Cilaos and characterful market brimming with food, spices, jewellery and other crafts, was worthwhile. As the approach road is known as the drive of 420 turns, it’s preferable to get going promptly to avoid having to navigate oncoming traffic in roads that could barely accommodate one car. The town boasts old, Creole-style buildings in the main street, and some charming shops. Strains of a celestial choir provided a surreal ambience as we witnessed the sun rising behind the local church and worshippers scattered into the sunshine.
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You’ll leave making plans to reunite with nature on this uncomplicated, simple, serene slice of unspoilt paradise The colourful Creole cuisine is influenced by French, Indian and Chinese spices and neighbouring Madagascar. The tasty traditional dishes like the cari (a tomato-based stew that is like a curry) and sausage rougail (tomato-based sausage dish) are accompanied by rice, beans or lentils. Main courses are usually fish, pork or poultry-based and often spices such as ginger, saffron add the distinctive flavour. The island is famous for vanilla, coffee and honey – and the local rum. French influence prevails so wonderful cheeses and charcuterie were always on offer, and we popped into little patisseries and boulangeries on many days for in-between sustenance. Le Cap Mechant is famed for its night life, and Restaurant Le Cap Mechant for typically local food. The speciality dish of palm hearts is a drawcard – nutty in taste, they are delicious natural or with a vinaigrette. Another memorable local meal was savoured at Auberge du Relais on the Main Street of Saint-Leu, where the owner spoke rare and perfect English. The vegetation varies greatly from north to south and east to west, inland and at the coast. Towards the end of our stay we dedicated a day to hiking to Cascade Langevin, off the Grand Galet approach road. During the two hours of trekking upwards we took our time to
appreciate the natural surroundings, topping to admire inviting rock pools, gorgeous green foliage and forest backdrops. We saw not another soul. This route is one of many that attracts hikers from all over the world. It was an experience that left little hooks in us, drawing us to repeat the pleasure and rush of endorphins that bring it to a sweaty close. Another highlight was a long drive from Lux Hotel along the coast down south, where we stopped at Grand Anse. Many locals flock to this site on Sundays to picnic and play in the wide-open spaces. Here wild vegetation, coconut trees and sand unite to form an idyllic backdrop, if a little wild. A wedding set-up was in progress, so we hijacked the backdrop to have a memento ‘coral’ anniversary photograph taken, scratching in the sand our (many) number of years. How fitting to be celebrating a coral anniversary on a coral island. I have worked out why it is called Reunion. For South Africans, a quick flight, the lack of crime, the tropical climate and friendliness of the laidback locals beckon. You’ll leave making plans to reunite with nature on this uncomplicated, simple, serene slice of unspoilt paradise, and may want to visit twice. Be sure to hang your health, happiness or luck tag in the ‘Tree of Wishes’.
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Travel tips
Pack your own goggle and snorkel, and a pair of beach shoes to prevent injury from the coral – beautiful yet hazardous to your feet. However, it’s more important to note that it is living, and you should avoid touching it or walking on it, to prevent damage. Reunion is part of France (a department), so the currency is the Euro. No visa is needed, nor is malaria medication a must. Best time to visit is in high season, from November to April. Time difference – two hours ahead of SA. Air Austral flies from Johannesburg to St Denis on Tuesdays and Saturdays. There is public transport, but the best and cheapest way of navigating the island is in a hired car. Temperatures are typically tropical, yet it is essential to dress warmly if you are heading up the volcanoes as it can get cold at the top. Follow lifeguard instructions regarding sharks, as there is risk if you swim or surf outside safe areas.
USEFUL WEBSITES • For an unforgettable helicopter flip: www.heligon.com • For diving: www.corail-plongee.com • Blue Margouillat: www.bluemargouillat.com • Relais & Châteaux: www.relaischateaux.com • Lux resorts: www.luxresorts.com • Reunion tourism: https://en.reunion.fr/
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20 water and retains the shape for the perfect poach egg! Try it for yourself.
THE NAMES HESTON BLUMENTHAL AND THE FAT DUCK NEED ABSOLUTELY NO INTRODUCTION IN THE CULINARY WORLD, BUT DID YOU KNOW THERE’S MORE TO THIS MAN THAN A FAT DUCK? ANNE MARIAS SHARES THE STORY OF NEWTON CROSS MEETING HESTON BLUMENTHAL – BAREFOOT ON THE BEACH.
Blumenthal barefoot with
While in the beautiful Maldives, training at the Soneva Fushi resort, principal of the South African Butler Academy, Newton Cross, caught up with Heston while he was on a planning break. The two share a great love of hospitality, an interest in gastronomy and the love of island life! They discussed Blumenthal’s restaurant, The Fat Duck, particularly how he arrived at formulating the menu and the culinary experiences a collective whole. He revealed his secret to poaching a perfect egg, the golden nuggets of information all foodies are biting at the proverbial bit for. His method does not include a vinegarand-water solution at all, however a tiny amount of table salt is added to boiling water – his scientific approach to poaching is to merely place a plate at the bottom of the pot of boiling water. His theory is that the egg lifts and remains inside the vortex of boiling
Newton recalls that Heston commented on the SABA training methods, commending that the butlers (he called them Mr or Mrs Fridays) were encouraged to make the decision for themselves. Whether they wanted to see a happy guest at the resort they worked at, being mindful of the guest and not just ‘doing their job’. So deciding that they would indeed be instrumental in making the guest enjoy their experience, and his parallel from a culinary perspective was that his guests would make a decision to enjoy the food, not just ‘have a meal’ – that it would be a choice you would be making. Heston mentioned that he was interested in opening a restaurant in Franschhoek, South Africa years ago, but has since centred his focus on his newer projects closer to home. His favourite South African flavours are our bobotie and the distinctly South-African biltong and was keen to incorporate it into his menus. He remembers on his visits to South Africa as a child, he really loved Juicy Juicy (the juice bars found in all major malls), monkey gland sauce (which used to be popular as a sauce in the Spur Steak ranches) and he absolutely loved our guavas. Blumenthal calls his scientific approach to cuisine “multi-sensory cooking”. He describes his menu as ‘your itinerary for the day’ and you are presented with a treasure island-like map filled to the brim with nostalgic food memories translated into a multi-sensory experience.
BAREFOOT WITH BLUMENTHAL
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Heston Marc Blumenthal OBE, was born in Kensington, London in May 1966, to a Jewish father born in Southern Rhodesia (now known as Zimbabwe) and an English mother who converted to Judaism.
He invented recipes for triplecooked chips and soft-centred Scotch eggs.
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In July 2006, Blumenthal was presented with an honorary Doctor of Science degree by Reading University in recognition of his unique scientific approach to food and long-standing relationship with the University's School of Food Biosciences.
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Blumenthal received an honorary Master of Science from Bristol University in 2007.
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In DECEMBER 2013, Blumenthal was presented with an honorary Doctor of Science degree by the University of London, recognising his pioneering research and achievements in his field. BAREFOOT WITH BLUMENTHAL
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In January 2006, Blumenthal was appointed an OBE in the New Year Honours List for his services to British gastronomy.
Blumenthal owns the restaurant Dinner in London, which has two Michelin stars, and two pubs in Bray, The Crown at Bray and The Hinds Head, which has one Michelin star.
He has been awarded honorary degrees for his scientific approach to cooking.
Also in July 2006, Blumenthal was the first chef to be awarded an Honorary Fellowship by the Royal Society of Chemistry.
In JUNE 2013, the College of Arms granted Blumenthal a personal coat of arms.
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BAREFOOT WITH BLUMENTHAL
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25 WHEN YOU DINE AT THE WERF RESTAURANT THERE IS MUCH TO ENTHRALL YOU – THE FARM SETTING AND THE FOOD ARE MATCHED IN ATTRACTION. LOOK CAREFULLY AND YOU WILL SEE MORE THAN A CHEF AND TEAM WHO BELIEVE IN SUSTAINABILITY – THEY LIVE IT. THE GOURMET GUIDE FIRED A FEW QUESTIONS AT CHRISTIAAN CAMPBELL, HEAD CHEF AND SUSTAINABILITY PIONEER. HOW DO YOU DEFINE SUSTAINABILITY? Ideally you want to leave the planet, through your interactions, in a better place than you found it.
Living the life – real sustainability
This is a tall order especially when the consequences of our collective actions are intertwined with a global society that has been (consciously or unconsciously) systematically working against nature for the last two hundred years. Of late I have started looking at restaurants, hotels, farms or any business for that matter, as a living organism, within another greater organism. All inputs and outputs within this organism need to serve a greater life supporting purpose, that being nature. WHAT RESPONSIBILITIES DOES A CHEF HAVE IN TERMS OF ENSURING SUSTAINABILITY IN THEIR RESTAURANTS? Chefs like any person on this planet can be a radical change agent through where and how they spend their money. Right now, buying power is one of
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27 practices are sustainable in nature if not regenerative in practice. We have established open and honest relationships with our suppliers. A relationship built on trust and time. The menus are inspired and driven by the seasonal produce coming off the farm or what is available locally. And of course, supplied by likeminded suppliers and producers. 2 Creative food styling and presentation ensures there is no waste and that ingredient trim is kept to a minimum. Any trim should be used for staff food. Any plate scrapings and compostable material is incorporated into the farms high-volume composting system.
the most powerful tools to support sustainability. Support farmers directly or indirectly that are at the very least making a change to sustainable farming practices with a clear vision in sight of regenerative agriculture. The chef playing an active role within an ‛organism’ can ensure all that enters the ‛organism’ is sustainable in nature and all that leaves the ‛organism’ is put to sustainable use. A chef is at the end of the day only as good as his team. It is important for the whole team to buy into ‛sustainable thinking’. If the team lives ‛sustainable thinking’ all the processes within the restaurant will be in a constant state of evolution on the journey towards
sustainability. The story of sustainability is expressed through our menu text and content, as well as by our chefs and front of house service team CAN YOU OUTLINE, BRIEFLY, WHAT THE WERF IS DOING THAT MAY SET AN EXAMPLE TO OTHER RESTAURANTS? 1 Werf is in a fortunate position where it receives all its beef, pork and eggs from Boschendal Farming. The Werf Butchery processes the cuts, nose to tail. At least fifty percent of the vegetable requirement for the restaurant is supplied from the Werf Food Garden. The Werf Food Garden and the animal husbandry
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3 Certain packaging such as plastic bags and polystyrene are returned to the supplier. All other clean packaging materials are collected by our inhouse recycling team on the farm. At the recycling depot the materials are further separated and collected by recycling processors. 4 Apart from supporting Boschendal Wines, we also have organic, biodynamic and natural wines on the wine list. 5 We support local artisanal brewers and craft spirits producers. High sugar beverages have been reduced to a minimum. 6 We use mostly enzyme-based cleaning agents. All other cleaning agents are biodegradable. 7 Most of the crockery used in the restaurant is made locally.
8 The fat collected from our fat traps is sold to a company that processes the fat into candle wax. 9 We are always looking at where we can make positive change in our operations. The road to sustainability is without end. IF A RESTAURANT IS WISHING TO USE COMPOSTABLE PACKAGING, WHAT STEPS DO THEY NEED TO TAKE TO ENSURE THAT THE DESIRED END RESULT IS ACHIEVED? Using compostable packaging comes with a responsibility. Compostable packing is only an effective environmentally-friendly option if the product ends up in an effective composting system. For compostable material to breakdown it needs three important criteria. Moisture, heat and time. The heat required is at least 55 degrees Celsius. Time: a minimum on some materials of 180 days provided the other two criteria have been met. It is important to procure compostable packaging from a reputable vendor. Ensure the packaging has conformed to an evaluation by a respected standards authority. The regulations and standards for the import of compostable packaging into South Africa is virtually non existent. There is a range of compostable packaging that looks very like plastic. The difference can only be noted on the coding on the packaging. With all the best intentions, there is a high risk that this packaging will be combined with regular single use plastic. If these
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WHY NOT HAVE YOUR OWN BESPOKE, ARTISANAL GIN CREATED? Life never looked nor tasted this good… info@oljimmys.co.za
WIN! ONE BOTTLE OF MOTHER'S PRIDE GIN See the competitions page on our website for details.
recycled materials are combined in the recycling process, the end product will be of unusable quality. In summary; try avoid using singleuse packaging, compostable or noncompostable. If you are going to use compostable packaging only use in a situation where you can reclaim this used packaging and process through an effective composting system.
DO YOU HAVE A MANTRA THAT YOU LIVE BY? Within the realm of sustainability:
43% ALC.
Always ask questions. Question. Question. Question. Website: www.boschendal.com
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Enjoy responsibly. Not for sale to persons under the age of 18.
Juice jamming 30
Images by Natalie Brock and Babylonstoren
Armed with nothing more than boots and a warm jacket, brand manager, Natalie Brock, attended Babylonstoren’s ‘Juice Jamming’.
31 DRIVING INTO ONE OF THE OLDEST CAPE DUTCH FARMS DURING A MONKEY’S WEDDING, SURROUNDED BY VINEYARDS, CLUCKING DUCKS AND GRAND PLANTATIONS, THE SHEER BEAUTY FORCED ME TO STOP AND INHALE. A WORKING FARM AT HEART, WITH SUSTAINABILITY AT ITS CORE, BABYLONSTOREN CUTS NO CORNERS IN PROVIDING GUESTS WITH MEMORABLE DAY-TO-DAY ACTIVITIES WHILE SHOWCASING RESPECT FOR NATURE AND PRODUCE. We were welcomed at the ‘Lekker Shop’ by knowledgeable food scientist, Debora van der Merwe, and passionate head gardener, Liezl van der Walt, over hot coffee and rusks. I discovered their A-class butchery and farm shop while waiting for fellow participants to arrive – a friendly bunch of foodies. Under umbrellas we set off to 'The Juicery', above the fragranced ‘Scented Room’. Production manager Louis Karsten walked us through the production of their small-batched, cold-pressed juices. We observed their juices (in their signature colours of red, green and yellow of course!) being made with stateof-the-art machinery from Austria and Spain, using seasonal tree-ripened fruit and freshly-picked vegetables. “It was a huge transition for the farmer to leave the fruit on trees until completely ripe to fully develop the flavour, generally they pick them weeks in advance for exporting. We had to create a new mindset of harvesting for optimum flavour for our juice,” said Debora. The use of
high pressure processing (HPP) is a cold preserving method that reduces the microbial count in the juice, allowing for a longer shelf-life of up to 21 days, rather than the four-to-five-day shelf life most cold-pressed juices have. Babylonstoren takes pride too in bottling their juices using recycled plastic. We voyaged through the luscious gardens of lemon trees, beetroot crops, spekboom, cherry blossoms and the healing garden, learning about the farming process. Getting your hands dirty is part of the plan, so I pulled my sleeves back, dusted the damp soil away and pulled out two beetroot in a vivid shade of deep purple. When our baskets were full, we set off to mix and match to create our own wholesome juice. I selected granadillas, clementines, one red apple and a splash of ginger. With camaraderie we all tested, tried and watched each other at play. After all it’s called ‘jamming’ – what fun! It was time for our bottles to make their way to be preserved. Whilst sipping and appreciating Babylonstoren’s signature juices, many laughs transpired as we guessed the ingredients in each. Lunch of home-made breads, salad, curriedlamb pie and a chocolate-brownie dessert awaited us in the Greenhouse. The harvest was laid on tables in the dappled light in amongst the plants. Reflecting on the day’s journey through this multi-faceted farm, we said cheers and departed nature’s playground at Babylonstoren with an overwhelming, sensory appreciation – a true triumph of senses.
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FOR INFO ON FUTURE COURSES Dates: Summer and Winter 2020 Times: 10h00 – 15h00 Cost: R700 per person Bookings: enquiries@babylonstoren.com www.babylonstoren.com
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Coobs The bright side of
35 THE GOURMET GUIDE CAUGHT UP WITH CHEF JAMES DIACK, SASSI TRAILBLAZER OF THE YEAR IN 2018, TO DISCOVER WHAT PROVENANCE MEANS TO HIM. “Provenance? The sourcing of ingredients and enriching of the community you are sourcing it from. We have 320 pigs and wild boar. If animals walk enough and get the right feed the flavour concentration is right. It is all about understanding origin – understanding the animal and what it eats. At Brightside ingredients originate from pure love. Our aim at Coobs is to enhance these ingredients, not change them,” says James. Brightside is the family farm in the Magaliesberg, where his mother Janet runs the operation. It is from here and within a 5km radius that James sources ingredients for his restaurants – Coobs, stalwart of the bustling restaurant strip of Parkhurst, Il Contadino in Parktown North and La Stalla in Melville. Coobs is his flagship, and it is here that he undertakes ‘serious cooking’. It was originally a café, now it holds its place on the list of fine dining establishments in Gauteng. “The concepts of my restaurants vary, but guests must expect the same standards with different execution. We sell an experience, it is a restaurant where every dish is beautiful because 90% of the ingredients come from our family farm, Brightside,” states James with obvious pride. “Other ingredients like the venison and Boerenkaas, are sourced within a 5km radius of the farm.”
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Janet keeps Brightside on the right side commercially by being handson and an integral member of the Magaliesberg community. Her influence ranges from teaching farm workers the basics of preserving so that they may use every pear harvested, to community projects, showing her true devotion to animals. They believe that this community is part of their restaurant team, and suppliers are given the same respect as the produce. The team at Coobs have been with James since the start and are all considered to be vital part of the extended family. When it is time to make a change to the menu, they all contribute their ideas, and they are quick to share the provenance of the dishes as they serve them, smiling. There is a lot to smile about – relax outdoors or take a seat indoors where you can admire colourful art. You may decide to have a quick glass of wine and a plate, or you may decide to go the whole hog – either way you will have the best of Brightside Farm brought to you. Choose from the array of mouthwatering fare on the ever-evolving menu designed around whatever is being produced, here and now. You will be spoilt for choice with delectable dishes like Brightside duck liver parfait with dukkah, preserved fruit, homemade chutney, candied walnuts and brioche. Look out for the wild boar ragu and the sublime pear dessert, like all the authentic cuisine, abundant in taste, texture and appeal.
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BRIGHTSIDE PORK BELLY INGREDIENTS Confit pork belly 1 whole pork belly, skin removed 20g salt 20g pepper 2L confit pork fat 6 to 8 fresh bay leaves Confit onions 1kg baby onions 2C white wine salt and pepper to taste Pommes Anna 14 potatoes 500g butter salt and pepper ½ palm of Parmesan Leeks, red cabbage and sultanas 6 leeks 1 red cabbage 250g sultanas 100g butter 50g jus Jus 5L beef stock 4C red wine 1T red-wine vinegar ½C sugar 1 ½C tomato paste 1 shot brandy Apple purée 6 Granny Smith apples 2T honey salt and pepper to taste 1 red onion, roughly chopped 300ml cream
Crispy pork crackling skin from the pork belly salt to taste METHOD Confit pork belly 1 Start with seasoning the pork belly with salt and pepper. 2 Place the pork belly in an oven tray and pour the pork fat over the belly making sure the belly is fully submerged. 3 Mix in the bay leaves and cover the tray with 2 layers of tin foil, seal tightly. 4 Cook in the oven at 85°C for 10 to 12 hours. 5 Once cooked remove from the oven and strain the fat, allow the pork belly to cool. Confit onions 1 Place the onions in a tray. 2 Add white wine and bake for 30 minutes at 200°C. Pommes Anna 1 Peel and slice the potatoes. 2 Place in a tray with 500g butter and bake at 200°C for 30 minutes. Leeks, red cabbage and sultanas 1 Place the leeks, red cabbage and sultanas into a pot. 2 Add 100g of butter and 50g jus. 3 Cook for 5 minutes until caramelized. Jus 1 Mix all ingredients together in a large pot. 2 Allow the mixture to reduce and thicken by at least half. 3 If the Jus does not thicken enough, allow to reduce more and add 1t cornflour to help thicken. HAUTE PROPERTY
Apple purée 1 Roughly chop the apples with the skin on. Place the apples in an oven tray, drizzle the apples with honey and season with salt and pepper. 2 Cover the tray with tin foil and cook for 15 minutes at 200°C. 3 Once the apples have softened remove from the oven and set aside. 4 Place the roughlychopped onions in a pot with a small amount of oil and brown. 5 Once onions are cooked, add the apples and allow cooking and reducing of the liquid. 6 Once all the liquid has cooked out, add the cream and allow to reduce
by half. 7 Once reduced pour the mixture into the food processor and blend. 8 Pass the mixture through a drum sieve. Crispy pork crackling 1 Remove pork skin from confit belly and boil in vegetable stock until translucent. 2 Portion the boiled pork skin into 5cm by 5cm blocks and place in food dehydrator for 18 hours. 3 Place in a deep fryer and allow the skin to puff and harden. 4 Remove puffed crackling and season. Serves 6
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Faber showcasing Mother Nature
Images by Claire Gunn and Jenny Handley
AVONDALE FARM IN PAARL IS AN ENVIABLE SETTING FOR ANY CHEF, NOT ONLY BECAUSE OF THE NATURAL SURROUNDS, BUT BECAUSE AT FABER THERE IS A TRULY HOLISTIC APPROACH FROM A COMPREHENSIVE TEAM ABLY LED BY MOTHER NATURE. THEIR ETHOS, TERRA EST VITA (SOIL IS LIFE) IS WHAT THEY LIVE AND OPERATE BY. THE SEASONS, SOIL, WATER, ENERGY, SUNSHINE, PLANTS AND ANIMALS PLAY THEIR PART ALONG WITH THE PROPRIETOR, WINE MAKER, CHEF, FRONT-OF-HOUSE AND KITCHEN TEAM. INTERCONNECTED AND INTERDEPENDENT.
dictates.” Expect to see the produce before it is taken to the kitchen – like a large wooden board overflowing with enticing porcini mushrooms that later arrives in a delectable dish, the fricassee of roasted Avondale porcini, with homemade pasta, charred onion, basil and Parmesan. There are always stand-out dishes, rich in authenticity, like the celeriac tagliatelle with a 64°C hen’s egg (just one of the 90 eggs harvested daily), a herb dressing and aged Boerenkaas. You will find fish on the menu, sourced from ABALOBI, and ocean trout from Wild Peacock.
Simplicity is the key word when it comes to chef Dale Stevens of Faber. The small, tight team ensures that the integration of front-of-house and the kitchen is seamless. Everyone lends a hand, and it is a happy, open kitchen that shares their positivity with guests in warm and engaging service.
In June 2019 Avondale Estate released their maiden vintage of Qvevri Red Blend and Qvevri Chenin Blanc. Vinified, fermented and matured in clay Qvevri (pronounced kwe-vree), Avondale is the only winery in South Africa to adopt this ancient style that originated in the European country of Georgia. This country on the Black Sea is lauded as the cradle of contemporary viticulture.
Dale and his chefs will have foraged and harvested their ingredients from the farm, which is a joy and a challenge – some ingredients are here today, gone tomorrow, often thanks to the squirrels. Expect a bounty of greens and fresh herbs on your plate in their farm-to-fork adventure – fresh, raw and organic. Choose from the á la carte menu or indulge in the sixcourse tasting menu. “We prepare very little, but we prepare every day,” says Dale. “We are aiming for consistency. Many guests are regulars, so we don’t change the menu too much, the farm
Avondale wines are organically certified to strict biodynamic principles adhered to on the estate. The Quevri Chenin Blanc is crafted from 100% Chenin Blanc, fermented and matured in Qvevri for a year. The red blend is made from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre (and pairs perfectly with the free-range duck breast served with preserved quince, wilted Swiss chard and Jerusalem artichokes). As you take your leave of the estate, you will drive past the clucking ducks, planning your return visit for another fresh-from-nature edible experience.
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ROASTED KAROO LAMB SADDLE, GRAIN MUSTARD WITH ROASTED AND CARROT PURÉE INGREDIENTS Lamb saddle and mirepoix vegetables 2 whole onions 1 bunch leeks 1 bunch celery 100g rosemary 100g thyme 1 whole garlic bulb, individual cloves gently smashed 800g deboned and rolled lamb saddle salt and ground pepper 50ml olive oil 50g butter 1T whole-grain mustard Spiced carrot pureé 1kg large carrots, peeled and sliced thinly 1 stick cinnamon star anise 3 cardamom pods 400ml chicken stock salt and pepper to taste 100ml fresh cream 1 fresh lemon wedge 500g baby rainbow carrots olive oil for drizzling METHOD Lamb saddle and mirepoix vegetables 1 Roughly chop mirepoix vegetables, place in a medium-sized oven tray and add rosemary, thyme and garlic bulb. Preheat oven to 180°C. 2 Heat
up a large saucepan. Season lamb generously with salt and ground pepper. Coat the pan in olive oil and seal off each side of the lamb saddle, on high heat until golden brown. 3 Place the sealed saddle on top of the mirepoix vegetables and cook for 45 minutes at 180°C, remove from oven and allow to rest for 15 minutes before slicing and serving. 4 Strain the pan drippings from the oven tray into a small sauce pot, whisk in butter and add mustard. Spiced carrot pureé 1 Add carrots, cinnamon, star anise and cardamom to a large pot. Sweat off on medium heat with a touch of olive oil for 5 minutes. 2 Add chicken stock and allow to cook until all liquid has evaporated, and carrots are soft to touch. 3 Season to taste and blend until smooth, slowly adding cream. Finish off with a squeeze of lemon juice. 4 Peel the baby carrots and place in roasting tray with a drizzle of olive oil, season with salt and ground black pepper. 5 Roast at 180°C for 10-15 minutes. PLATING Assemble hot, sliced lamb shoulder, carrot purée and roasted carrots on a warm plate and finish off with a tablespoon of the whole grain mustard jus. SERVES 4
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Gourmet Guide recipes JHP Gourmet Guideâ„¢ rated chefs share their recipes
PAELLA RISOTTO BY CHEF THEO CHILOANE OF GEMELLI
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PAELLA RISOTTO
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add prawns. 4 Set to a low heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Add a pinch of salt and pepper to taste. 5 Once the rice consistency is al dente, add fresh peas and fold in Parmesan. 6 Fold in saffron oil and chopped parsley and serve.
INGREDIENTS Saffron oil 4g saffron threads 330ml extra-virgin olive oil Paella risotto 30g sofrito 80g calamari tubes 5 clams 5 mussels 80g chorizo 150g partially-cooked risotto 1C shellfish stock 150ml Neapolitan sauce 30g beurre blanc 60g prawns salt pepper 30g fresh peas Parmesan 1T saffron oil parsley
SERVES 4 TURNIP GRATIN INGREDIENTS Turnip gratin 300g cream, warmed 1 clove garlic, peeled 100g onion, peeled 100g Parmesan, grated 1kg turnips, peeled and sliced fresh thyme salt, pepper to taste
METHOD Saffron oil 1 Warm up oil with the saffron threads to 30°C for 30 minutes, constantly stirring to make sure the threads diffuse evenly in the oil. 2 Cool it down to room temperature before use. Paella risotto 1 In a sauté pan, on high heat, add sofrito, calamari tubes, clams and mussels. 2 Add chopped chorizo and risotto rice. Sauté for one minute before pouring the shellfish stock. 3 Lightly fold in Neapolitan sauce and beurre blanc, then
Parmesan crumb 50g butter 1 clove garlic, grated 70g panko crumbs 70g Parmesan 5g picked thyme salt and pepper to taste Parmesan sauce 1 onion, sliced 1 garlic cloves, sliced 1 sprig thyme 15g butter 400ml white wine 1L vegetable stock 800ml cream 125g Parmesan, grated salt to taste
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"My favourite feedback from a guest is when they say a dish took them back to a place or a memory, it's a powerful thing." Chef Glen Foxcroft Williams of Foxcroft METHOD Turnip gratin 1 Blend cream, garlic, Parmesan and onion until smooth. 2 Dress the turnip slices in the cream mixture until evenly coated. 3 Line a shallow baking tray or bread tin with baking parchment. 4 Lay the dressed turnip slices flat on the tray, seasoning lightly with salt, pepper and picked thyme in between each layer. You can refrigerate it at this point if not cooking straight away. 5 Bake at 180°C for 45 to 50 minutes or until tender. 6 Top with crumb and return to oven for 5 to 10 minutes or until golden. Parmesan crumb 1 Melt the butter in a frying pan and add the grated garlic. Cook slowly until caramelized. 2 Add panko crumbs and stir to coat. 3 Once toasted lightly, add Parmesan, thyme, salt and pepper. Stir through until combined. Parmesan sauce 1 Sweat the onions, garlic and thyme in the butter, slowly, while covered until translucent and soft. 2 Deglaze with white wine and reduce. 3 Add vegetable stock and reduce slowly to a glaze. 4 Add cream and reduce by
one fifth. Strain and blend in Parmesan with a stick blender and season to taste. Serve hot. SERVES 8 TO 10 CURRIED AUBERGINE WITH POMEGRANATE INGREDIENTS Caramelised onion 5 baby onions, peeled but kept whole salt castor sugar Tip: Leave a bit of the bottom on to hold onion together. Curry base 2 onions, diced 3cm piece of ginger, finely diced 4 garlic cloves, finely diced 1 stick lemongrass, bruised 1 bay leaf 2 lime leaves 1t whole cumin ½t cardamom 1T coriander seeds, toasted and crushed 2t turmeric 7t mild curry powder 3t garam masala ½ small tin whole peeled tomatoes 1,5L vegetable stock
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46 Tip: The curry base will give you more that you need and can be used elsewhere. Curried aubergine 1kg aubergine, peeled and cut in 1.2cm cubes 300g rice flour sunflower oil, enough to ‘deep fry’ depending on what size pot you have off cuts cut to similar size pieces and fry separately again so there’s no waste 1C white wine vinegar 1C white balsamic vinegar 150g sugar 1 T cornflour Whipped goats’ yoghurt 250g hung goats’ yoghurt (place yoghurt in cheese cloth and colander overnight over a bowl, this will catch the whey from yoghurt leaving a more intensely flavoured yoghurt). 250g whipped cream, whipped to soft peaks ½ clove garlic, grated on a micro plane 10g mint ½t white balsamic vinegar juice of half a lemon 1t salt Garnish pomegranate picked coriander picked mint METHOD Caramelised onion 1 Bring salted water to a simmer, add onions and blanch for 4 minutes,
placing in ice water straight afterwards to stop the cooking process. 2 Pat dry and cut lengthwise. 3 Heat a pan till quite hot, season onions with salt and a bit of castor sugar and burn on cut side. 4 Allow to cool and pull apart the petals. The tiniest ones you can’t use to fill can be cut up and mixed in with the curry. Curry base 1 To make the base, sweat off onions, ginger and garlic. Add lemongrass, bay and lime leaves and spices and sweat for another minute. 2 Add tomato, cook for 1 minute, then add stock. Curried aubergine 1 Coat aubergine in rice flour, deep fry in batches at 160°C, or medium heat till golden. 2 Drain and place on paper towel and reserve. 3 Make a syrup by placing white wine vinegar, balsamic and sugar in a pot on a low heat on the stove. 4 Add 300g of syrup with the aubergine, put back on the stove and add cornflour. 5 Let cool and mix equal aubergine to curry, with chopped coriander. Whipped goats’ yoghurt 1 Mix all the ingredients except the cream. 2 Fold in the cream last and place in piping bag. PLATING 1 Place curry in onions, top with a few dots of yoghurt, pomegranate and herbs. 2 We serve it on beach stone, with a smoked spice mix below which we burn to give the extra effect of aroma when it reaches the table. MAKES 40 BITE-SIZE ONIONS
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CURRIED AUBERGINE BY CHEF ANDRE HILL OF UPPER BLOEM RESTAURANT
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TURNIP GRATIN BY CHEF GLEN FOXCROFT WILLIAMS OF FOXCROFT
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2 Vacuum and sous vide at 56.5°C for 40 minutes. 3 Take out and let it cool down to room temperature. Tip: If you don’t have a sous vide machine, you can grill the Springbok in a pan or on the braai and smear the pesto on afterwards. SOUS-VIDE SPRINGBOK BY FORMER CHEF PELLIE GROBLER OF THE BLACK BAMBOO
SPRINGBOK Sous-vide Springbok with aubergine roulade, miso mayonnaise, red-pepper pesto, aubergine purée, pickled-redpepper discs and red-pepper oil. INGREDIENTS Springbok 1 Springbok loin 4T pepper pesto Pepper Pesto 4 red bell peppers olive oil to drizzle 1 to 2t sea salt flakes generous pinch of freshly-ground black pepper handful of basil leaves, about 10g 4T toasted pine kernels 1 clove garlic, crushed 1T white wine vinegar olive oil to emulsify, +- 60ml Aubergine purée 2 medium aubergines 2 medium tomatoes
juice of 1 lemon 2 to 3 garlic cloves, crushed small bunch dill, chopped salt and pepper Aubergine roulade 1 aubergine aubergine purée goats’ cheese salt and pepper Miso mayonnaise 1T mayonnaise 1T miso ½t soya sauce Red pepper oil ½C olive oil ½C roasted red peppers, drained Garnish baby bok choi METHOD Springbok 1 Portion the Springbok loin into four, put each portion in a vacuum bag with a tablespoon of pepper pesto.
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Pepper pesto 1 Preheat oven to 180°C. 2 Cut the 4 sides off each pepper and use the bottom piece (trim off any white pith). 3 Place the peppers on a large baking sheet with the skin side down. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. 4 Roast for 25 minutes until the edges just start to blacken. 5 Place the peppers into a food processor with all the other ingredients except the olive oil, and blitz. 6 Pour the olive oil through the spout of the bowl adding bit by bit until you are happy with the consistency. Check the seasoning, adjust and process again. It takes a few minutes before you get a lovely smooth texture. Tip: Pesto freezes well and keep what you don’t use. Aubergine purée 1 Heat grill to very hot. Slice the aubergines and tomatoes in half lengthways, then grill for 25 mins, turning occasionally, until soft – the skin will remain firm, but the flesh will soften. 2 Remove the aubergines and tomatoes from the grill and leave until cool enough to handle. 3 Using a sharp knife, score the grilled flesh and scoop
out with a spoon. 4 Place tomatoes, aubergine, lemon juice, garlic and dill into a blender and blend until smooth. Season. 5 Put half in piping bag and keep the other half for the roulade. Aubergine roulade 1 Slice aubergine into thin slices and grill on griddle pan until soft and flexible. Put to one side to cool. 2 Mix the aubergine purée and goats’ cheese together until well combined. Add salt and pepper to taste. 3 Spoon aubergine and goats’ cheese onto slices of aubergine and roll up into roulade. Miso mayonnaise 1 Mix all ingredients together. Place into a piping bag and refrigerate until needed. Red pepper oil 1 Place the olive oil and roasted red peppers in a blender, and blend until almost smooth. 2 Strain through a fine mesh strainer lined with a double thickness of cheese cloth. 3 Cover and chill in the refrigerator at least 24 hours before serving. PLATING 1 Place a piece of aubergine roulade on a plate. Pipe a couple of dots of aubergine purée, pepper pesto and miso mayonnaise around the plate. 2 Sprinkle Springbok with finely chopped chives, cut in half and place on the plate. 3 Garnish with red pepper discs, baby bok choi and red pepper oil. SERVES 4
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52 TUNA LA MOUETTE INGREDIENTS White gazpacho 6 cloves garlic 125g sour dough bread (crusts removed) 150ml pomace-blend oil 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled and chopped clove garlic 150g almonds flaked, toasted 2T sherry vinegar salt Chive oil 600g oil 300g chives 300g baby spinach salt Tuna tartare dressing 100ml smoked oil 40g soya sauce 40g ponzu dressing 10g white wine vinegar 10g sugar 20g mirin Blackened compressed cucumber 1 cucumber salt Semi-dried grapes grapes oil Tuna 200g tuna Plating 5g coriander cress 5g onion cress 20g almonds, roasted with smoked paprika
53 METHOD White gazpacho 1 Confit on a low heat 6 cloves garlic in the olive oil, about 10 to 15 minutes. 2 Soak bread in water for 10 minutes and squeeze out. 3 Place all the ingredients in the blender and blend until smooth. 4 Leave for 1 hour in the fridge to infuse. 5 Strain through a fine sieve. Chive oil 1 Blend all ingredients for 5 minutes. 2 Using a strainer, leave to drip through cloth for 6 hours. Tip: This recipe makes more than what is required, the extra can be frozen and used for another occasion. Tuna tartare dressing Mix all ingredients together in bowl, than season to taste. Blackened compressed cucumber 1 Peel the cucumber, then cut in half, length ways. 2 Sprinkle with salt and vacuum pack for 6 hours. 3 Char very quickly in a flat pan, then cut into cubes. Semi-dried grapes Brush the grapes with oil, sprinkle with icing sugar and dry in oven at 100°C until semi dried. Tuna Mix about 200g diced raw tuna with about 30ml tuna dressing. PLATING In a serving bowl place tuna first then add a few drops of white gazpacho, nuts, cucumber, semi-dried grapes, coriander cress, onion cress and chive oil to finish. SERVES 4
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TUNA LA MOUETTE BY CHEF HENRY VIGAR OF LA MOUETTE
ONE OF THE MANY FACTORS IN LIVING A MORE SUSTAINABLE LIFE IS BUYING FRUIT AND VEGETABLES WHEN IN SEASON. SOMETIMES OUR DECISIONS ARE MADE BY PRICE, CONVENIENCE AND TASTE, BUT TAKE A MINUTE TO CONSIDER THE NUTRITIONAL VALUE, CARBON FOOTPRINT AND RESPECT FOR THE NATURAL CYCLE OF PRODUCTION WHILE SHOPPING. Spring has sprung and it’s the return of juicy berries, crunchy greens and stone fruits. South African stone-fruit farmers produce a total of around 350 000 tons per year, exporting only 22% while the remainder heads to our local markets. Plums are an exception, with 74% being exported globally.
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Spring vegetables include ARTICHOKES, ASPARAGUS, AUBERGINES and AVOCADOS; BABY MARROWS, BEANS, BEETROOT, BROCCOLI and BRUSSELS SPROUTS. From CABBAGE, CAULIFLOWER and CELERY to LEEKS, MARROWS AND MEALIES are up there too. PARSNIPS, PEPPERS and TOMATOES are radiant while TURNIPS and WATERCRESS can too be added to your sustainable and seasonal trolley.
Dive into the APRICOTS, CHERRIES, PEACHES AND PLUMS this spring – eat them raw, stew them or preserve them. They have vitamin C immuneboosting properties and are high in fibre, antioxidants and low in kilojoules. Juicy and tasty, they pack flavour into sweet or savoury dishes.
turnip the responsibility
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“To plant a garden, is to believe in tomorrow.” – Audrey Hepburn Spring is here…your summer body has been neglected, the garden is looking a little more tatty than usual and you don’t know where to start? Why not take our advice and kill all the birds with one stone? Micro-greens (think: radish, basil, coriander, dill, rocket) immediately make your salad look like you should work at that famous little, number-one restaurant–in-the-world. Micro-greens are incredibly easy to grow, even without a garden. Small packets of organic mixed (or single varietal) seeds are available at all good nurseries and online. Planted in a thin layer of moist soil, placed on your sunny windowsill, they’ll germinate and be ready for ‘Masterchef’ in 10 days.
Gourmet garden spring into action and get ‘cheffy’ too!
The directions on the packaging are fool proof. Don’t believe me? Check out a YouTube video and see for yourself. Some micro-greens have up to 40 times more nutrients than their mature selves would. They’re healthy, they look great, they’re perfect ‘first-time tryout plants’ and they make your house feel and smell like spring has sprung. While you’re at it, why not try growing some of the legumes? Lentils for example, may not appeal to hubby who loves hamburgers, but give him the micro-greens you’ve grown from these lentils on his burger and he will
be a guaranteed convert (maybe not guaranteed, but at least he ate part of a lentil and didn’t moan about it). If you have more space to play with, start your own veggie garden. All the micro-greens and legumes will thrive and grow into larger plants if allowed the space and the time. Great leafy greens to sow or plant in spring include spinach, lettuces, radishes and sweet peas. They tend to prefer cooler conditions, so get them in before the summer sun gets too hot. Try them out, they are seasonal, healthy and look good. Chris Tunnicliffe, co-owner of Julip Landscaping
Julip specialises in high-end, tailormade landscaping solutions and plant installations. From residential, commercial and large scale and agricultural landscaping to irrigation, decking, fencing and pergolas. We aim to transform your space to best suit you. Email: juliplandscaping@gmail.com Tel: 079 660 2063
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Catch of the day using technology to bridge the divide
THE GOURMET GUIDE CAUGHT UP WITH DR SERGE RAEMAEKERS, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF ABALOBI.
policy. A move to UCT followed, where for eight years he was a lecturer in environmental and geo sciences.
His passion is palpable, his enthusiasm infectious. He is one of the people behind the movement that has changed the way chefs and restaurants source their fish and seafood. You may have seen the QR code on the menu or table in your favourite restaurant. Scan it and you can see what, where, when and by whom your delicious fish was caught.
“Fishers are the stewards of our oceans, in essence, they are conservationists,” says Serge. “I wanted to do something practical, whilst waiting for policy implementation. We obtained a small grant which enabled us to connect with fishers, trail a first version of the app, and to co-produce knowledge with these fishers.”
Serge is a fisher scientist who arrived in SA in 2004 to do his PhD. Growing up in France and Belgium, he was here to source information on fisheries management. Whilst studying at Rhodes University he worked for two years on the Wild Coast doing stock surveys. Whilst chatting to fishers he realised that their knowledge was a key part of the fisheries management puzzle. Their local knowledge was rich, their continual daily observation of the ecosystem was invaluable and unrecognised. He continued to build his PhD as a social scientist, then got involved in a court case advocating for the fishers of the Western Cape whose rights were not being recognized nor rewarded. Serge started to develop a new idea for small scale fishing, whilst helping to articulate a new
Push fast forward and it is this data that has changed the landscape and how chefs and restaurants source their catch. The information is on an app as part of a ‘Catch of the Day’ announcement. Chefs simply send their order in by a specified time, and they receive their catch the next morning. Quality control is guaranteed, source is identified, and they now cook with what is locally and seasonally available. Who was the first chef, you may ask? Kerry Kilpin, of Steenberg Bistro Sixteen82, in November 2017, was the first to push ‘go’ when a group of Lamberts Bay fishers posted their catch. With one order she became the first of now 190 restaurants ordering in total up to three tons a week,
Fishers are the stewards of our oceans, in essence, they are conservationists. HAUTE PERFORMANCE
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Traceability, provenance and community collaboration have resulted from one application, from the dream of one inspired, enlightened, passionate man who turned the tide. thereby feeding 350 fisher families. Six communities are benefitting from the streamlined process in which 40 tons of fish were ordered in 2018, the first year of operations of the ABALOBI MARKETPLACE. The benefits are tangible and impressive – the fisher can negotiate, getting a better price, and there is increased pride in their profession. There is a connection between the buyer and the market, with better diversity. The chef is buying directly from the fisher – and can see the freshest of fish arrive in their restaurant within 24 hours, never having left the ice since being pulled up on the boat. The system is also pushing chefs to experiment with this basket of different species.
ABALOBI has created a close connection between chefs and fishers, and by doing so ensured a social return on investment. The difference this has made to the fishers is not only in numbers. Their livelihood is secured, with payment digital and transparent. Fishers appreciate their value to the chefs and restaurants; they claim their place in the fish chain. The chefs communicate and ask questions of the fishers in a WhatsApp group, plus attend workshops at ABALOBI. Traceability, provenance and community collaboration have resulted from one application and its implementation, from the dream of a passionate team who turned the tide.
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62 it’s easy for some people to be fooled in thinking that the restaurant industry is a glamorous place to work in. But for most us, who ‘sleep and wake up’ in the kitchen, the reality is rather challenging.
STRESS IS GENERALLY CONSIDERED TO BE NEGATIVE, BUT, WHEN CONTROLLED, IT CAN CREATE ACTION. DISTRESS NEEDS TO BE ALLEVIATED, BUT EUSTRESS, IS KNOWN AS POSITIVE STRESS. IT INCREASES PERFORMANCE DUE TO ELEVATED SENSES AND CONFIDENCE (KNOWN AS ‘GETTING INTO THE ZONE’). EITHER WAY, PROVIDING THE RIGHT ENVIRONMENT IS KEY. Nthabeleng Meso is a chef currently pursuing a bachelor’s degree in International Business in Culinary Arts at the Cesar Ritz Colleges at the Culinary Arts Academy Switzerland. She shares her concerns about stress.
Stress, distress or eustress? HAUTE PERFORMANCE
The restaurant industry is filled with talented, creative people united in their quest to perfect the art of food. Every person in the kitchen is responsible for making that come to light, with a head chef and a supportive team in the kitchen it can become a well-oiled machine. From the outside looking in, life in the restaurant may seem wonderful. With the growing number of celebrity chefs, fueled by social media,
Not so long ago, this challenge was highlighted by the passing of renowned American-celebrity chef, Anthony Bourdain. His passing once again highlighted the need for chefs and the hospitality industry to pay attention to the wellbeing of their staff, which will benefit them in retaining staff, promote longevity and sustainability in this industry. There are several things that causes stress in the restaurant industry; time spent away from family, low income, long working hours, multiple tasks going at the same time, lack of team spirit, the high expectancy to consistently deliver a certain standard of food and service and dealing with tough chefs. Finding a solution to this challenge is complex, as different people respond differently to challenges. There is light at the end of the restaurant tunnel; in recent years, some chefs have recognized the need for change and are encouraging their staff to speak up when they feel overwhelmed. In doing so, they have taken it upon themselves to change the old-school way of doing things by learning to manage their own tempers. Restaurants CAN deliver a high service standard without compromising the wellbeing of their staff.
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65 nap between lunch and dinner service can be an option for some, but not all. BREATHE
Work hard at wellbeing JEHAN SCELLO, A HR DIRECTOR WITH EXPERIENCE IN THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY, SHARED SOME SUGGESTIONS FOR MAINTAINING WELLBEING IN THE HECTIC, HURLY-BURLY WORLD OF HOSPITALITY. EAT Lack of free time and long-working hours often results in poor eating habits, eating at strange hours and consuming unhealthy foods. More restaurants need to ensure that their teams sit down together for a meal before service, which not only ensures a healthy meal, but creates a nurturing, team environment too.
Control your caffeine and sugar intake – often when tired the first resort is coffee and carbs, which give a quick high, but followed by a low. Consider daily doses of vitamins and nutritional supplementation, plus regular vitamin B shots to boost your immunity and help you in the overall quest for stress management.
Successful people in the hospitality industry are prone to having creative and obsessive mindsets. Their passion can make them relentless in the pursuit of excellence. To counteract the high demands, consider meditation yoga, walking or hiking. Mindfulness and good breathing are essential. Where possible, take short breaks in fresh air, just 20 minutes of exposure to the sun and vitamin D will boost your nutritional health. TIME OUT Long hours, very little time off and continued exhaustion can result in a lack of routine. It is advisable to incorporate meeting with friends on days off for outdoor walks, preferably in nature such as in the mountain, forest or near the ocean. This can keep the creative juices flowing – some chefs find this time useful for inspiration as they are
exposed to fynbos, veld flowers and other edible plants. There is a lack of time and energy for the boring, yet essential general life administration and domestic responsibilities. It is advisable to implement a routine or structured schedule for this. If possible, ensure adequate support e.g. a domestic helper on a weekly basis. If this is unaffordable then take one hour a week, pump up the music and just do it!
CONNECT There is often not enough time to focus on relationships. Make a concerted effort to be conscious of maintaining relationships outside the working environment, even if it is by having a quick coffee (or walk!) on the way to your shift. Make a concerted effort to establish and keep relationships with those outside the industry. Social media provides creative inspiration, but can be very timeconsuming, so try to manage your connectivity. Disconnect regularly, without guilt.
SLEEP Inconsistent working hours and feeling ‘wired’ after service can lead to taking ages to relax after a shift and often leads to issues with sleep. One useful option to alleviate this, is the use of a sleep app such as ‘Calm’ (www.calm.com) which has had positive results. A quick power
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Viognier, chatting to the winemakers and overlooking the valley and mountains beyond. READ?
A few of my favourite things
The Gourmet Guide chatted to epicurean writer and luxury-brand explorer, Steve Steinfeld, between meals. Follow him on 'The Jo’burg Foodie’ if you want more meat…
FOOD FRAGRANCE?
PLACE OF RELAXATION?
I think there’s something very nostalgic about the aromas of a slow-cooking stew. It reminds me of getting home after a long day at school and before even seeing the pot, slowly bubbling on the stove top or in the oven, knowing what was for dinner.
Abingdon Wine Estate, tucked away in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, it is such a hidden gem. There are few places I’d rather unwind than up on the lawns of the homestead, enjoying a glass of the estate’s MCC or signature
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A Greedy Man in a Hungry World by Jay Rayner. I think it’s a book everyone interested in food should read. Rayner delves into the meaty subjects of supermarkets, sustainability, food economics and more while disproving many of the common notions we currently hold and forecasting what we’ll need to feed the future. TRAVEL DESTINATION? Grootbos Private Nature Reserve. It’s one of the most memorable trips I’ve been on. It’s situated on a beautiful nature reserve overlooking Walker Bay with fynbos for kilometres around you and views all the way down to the ocean.
Kona (a special reserve which hasn’t been released locally), which while on the lower end of the scale, exudes the most glorious spicy, fruity and nutty notes. DRINK? Chaos White from Elgin Ridge. It’s a brilliantly clever Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon blend by winemaker Kosie van der Merwe. He uses a range of different fermentation techniques, from tank to whole bunch, to create an incredibly complex and nuanced wine. At first sip it’s pithy with notes of apple and a wonderfully oily, textured mouthfeel, but constantly evolves as you keep on drinking. RELAXATION RESTAURANT?
“I’m very much down to earth, just not this earth.”
Marble Restaurant. I jokingly refer to it as ‘The Joburg Foodie’s spiritual home’. It’s a very special place to me as I’ve been privileged to witness its journey from being the top of a parking lot to the world-class restaurant it is now. Breathtaking views of Jo’burg, excellent food and stellar service – it’s such a great space!
CAREER HIGHLIGHT?
FINE DINING RESTAURANT?
I was lucky enough to sit down for a coffee with Marco Pierre White.
The Restaurant at Waterkloof. I think Chef Gregory is a culinary genius; I love the sense of restraint that runs through his menu. There’s nothing missing from any of his dishes but more importantly there’s nothing that doesn’t need to be there either. It’s precise, well considered and expertly executed; it is incredibly clever cooking.
QUOTE?
CANNOT LIVE WITHOUT? My Nespresso machine! An espresso is the start and end to every day. I generally tend to stick to the stronger, darker Grand Crus such as Dharkan and Kazaar although recently I received the Hawaai
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69 THERE IS A WORLDWIDE TREND OF MOVING AWAY FROM HAVING MEAT AS THE MAIN EVENT. THIS COLOURFUL, ENTICING RECIPE BOOK MAY CHANGE THE WAY MANY CARNIVORES EAT, AND NOT ONLY ON MEAT-FREE MONDAYS.
My
Vegetarian Braai
Overflowing with flavour-filled recipes created by self-taught cook Adele Maartens, paired with mouthwatering photographs by Hein van Tonder, each recipe is more inviting than the next. Inspired by Adele’s love of learning cookery around the world, expect tastes from the Mediterranean to the Middle East. Divided into snacks and dips (look out for the blackeye pea, porcini mushroom and mozzarella arancini with avjar sauce, straight from Sicily), mains (how about braaied fennel with tomatoes, olives and capers?) and sides and salads (the braaied iceberg lettuce with tempered yoghurt dressing may catch your eye). There are also breads, desserts and drinks – some of the recipes are cooked on the fire, others enjoyed alongside. Recipes are simple, succinct and seductive – you will want to try every one of them. Penguin Random House, R325 ISBN 978-1-4323-1-0059
HARISSA TOFU AND GRILLED PEACH SALAD The spicy Moroccan harissa lifts tofu to another dimension. This salad can also be served in a wrap as a lunch snack
with a drizzle of lemon-flavoured olive oil and rocket. INGREDIENTS 500g extra-firm tofu 2T harissa paste 2T tamari 2T extra virgin olive oil juice of 1 lime 3 fresh peaches, halved and pitted 1 packet (35g) nut and seed sprinkles fresh rocket to garnish METHOD 1 Place the tofu on kitchen paper and press to remove as much moisture a possible. 2 Combine the harissa, tamari, olive oil and lime juice in a blender and blend well. 3 Place the tofu in a shallow bowl and pour in the harissa mixture. Make sure the tofu is completely covered with the harissa mixture. 4 Cover with cling film and refrigerate for 4 hours. 5 Make sure the grill is clean and well-oiled and the coals are medium to hot heat (about 180°C). 6 Place the tofu on the braai grid and braai for 5 minutes, turning by 90 degrees halfway through the cooking time to form a crisscross pattern if you like. 7 Turn the tofu over and braai for 5 minutes, again turning it by 90 degrees halfway through the cooking time. Cut the tofu into cubes, if preferred. 8 Place the peach halves on the braai grid for 2 minutes. Remove from the braai and leave to cool. 9 Mix the tofu with the peaches, sprinkle with the nut and seed mix, garnish with the rocket and serve as a side salad. Serves 4
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71 1t ground cumin 1t chopped fresh rosemary 1t smoked paprika sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper 1 egg extra virgin olive oil 1 packet flatbreads METHOD Raita To make the raita, grate the cucumber, wrap it in a tea towel and squeeze out the excess water. Mix the cucumber with the remaining raita ingredients and refrigerate to serve later once chilled.
MOROCCAN-STYLE CHICKPEA KEFTAS WITH LEMON AND MINT RAITA AND MINI FLATBREADS These keftas can be served as a quick snack or you can pop a couple of them into a pita pocket as your main meal and serve with a side salad. INGREDIENTS For the raita ½ English cucumber 1C Bulgarian yoghurt 1C fresh mint, chopped 2T grated lemon zest For the keftas 1 packet bamboo skewers 1 can (400g) chickpeas, drained and rinsed ½C canned black beans ¼C dried breadcrumbs ½ onion, diced ½C chopped fresh parsley ½C chopped fresh coriander ½C chopped fresh mint
Keftas 1 Soak the bamboo skewers for 1 hour while preparing the keftas. 2 In a food processor, pulse the chickpeas until roughly chopped and place them in a mixing bowl. Stir in the black beans and the breadcrumbs. 3 Add the rest of the kefta ingredients, except the olive oil and flatbreads, and stir well. If the mixture is not wet enough to form a firm ball, add a drizzle of olive oil. 4 Take a palmful of the mixture and press it around the skewer, then roll it lightly to form a sausage. You can decide how big or small you would like to have each sausage. Repeat until all the skewers are done. 5 Place on a braai grid over medium-hot coals and braai for 4 – 6 minutes until cooked, turning regularly. 6 Serve with your favourite warm flatbreads and zingy lemon and mint raita. Serves 10
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DOUGHNUTS WITH LEMON CURD MASCARPONE AND MIXED BERRIES Who would have thought that doughnuts on the braai could taste even better than they already do! INGREDIENTS 6 plain doughnuts, halved horizontally 1 punnet (300g) mixed berries ¾C whipping cream 1T icing sugar fresh mint to garnish For the lemon curd 4 large eggs, whisked ½C sugar 4t lemon zest ½C lemon juice 125g butter, cubed 1 tub (250g) mascarpone cheese METHOD 1 Place the doughnuts on the braai grid
WIN! ONE OF TWO COPIES OF MY VEGETARIAN BRAAI PLUS TWO BOTTLES OF TOKARA OLIVE OIL See the competitions page on our website for details.
over medium coals and toast for 1–2 minutes. Remove to cool for later use. 2 For the lemon curd, add the whisked eggs to a mixing bowl, along with the sugar, lemon zest and lemon juice, then whisk briskly. 3 Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water, making sure the bowl doesn’t touch the water, and stir occasionally. 4 Add the butter and keep stirring until the sauce thickens – this can take a couple of minutes. Once cooked, strain the curd into a jug and set aside to cool. 5 Whip the cream on high until it forms fluffy peaks. 6 Stir the mascarpone cheese into the cooled lemon curd and mix well. 7 Use a piping bag or spoon to top the doughnuts with the lemon curd mascarpone mixture. 8 Add the berries, a dollop of whipped cream and a sprinkling of icing sugar. Garnish with the mint leaves. SERVES 6
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Sustainability is not only about caring about the planet – people matter too. Ceramicist Mervyn Gers, cares about job creation and skills development.
Mervyn initially worked from a home studio, but as demand for his products started to increase, he employed additional help and eventually started looking for a larger studio. He found premises where a company, in March 2011, would be closing and retrenching all their staff. Mervyn jumped at the chance to secure the space and reemploy all four staff members to work with his existing four employees (who still form part of the 48 ceramists in the studio today). With an incredibly low staff turnover, the business has been able to provide a sustainable solution to unemployment. According to statistics, each job created has an impact on 4.8 people, not just the employee.
WIN!
“Our team come from diverse backgrounds, ranging from security work, cooks and electricians. More than 90% were trained inhouse in the art of ceramic production. We also train our ceramists in various divisions and roles, to ensure that they are not limited to a single manual task, but rather develop a holistic skillset across the entire production process. Focussing
AN OSTRICH EGG PLATTER WITH PLATINUM FILL See the competitions page on our website for details.
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on manual processes rather than mechanising the production line not only increases the number of jobs we can create, it also means traditional ceramic skills are being put to use in a business, preventing it from being confined to smaller studios and hobby potters,” says Mervyn proudly. LOCAL IS LEKKER 99% of their materials are sourced locally, with only those that cannot be found, being imported. “We actively reduce waste by re-using our greenware offcuts and have adapted our clay recipe to make use of this in every batch,” says Mervyn. The team at Mervyn Gers Ceramics recycles broken bisque product by milling it to form grog, which is used in their exquisite earth range. Mervyn is a man who does not shy away from a challenge and is currently working on an upcycled range of unique and once-off products. To view his range of bespoke ceramics visit www.mervyngers.com.
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Watch out for the summer edition of the Gourmet Guide To expose your brand to our haute audience contact us on rsvp@jhpr.co.za www.gourmetguide.co.za Terms and conditions for competitions • All competitions featured in this issue will run until 20 November 2019. • Winners will be selected at random and will be contacted by 9 December 2019. • Gourmet Guide magazine reserves the right to publish names of the winners. • Competitions are open to SA residents only. • Prizes are not transferable or exchangeable and cannot be redeemed for cash. • Employees and contractors to Jenny Handley Performance Management cc, and their immediate family members, are not eligible to enter. • Jenny Handley Performance Management cc cannot be held responsible for any errors, omissions and/or technical failures throughout this promotion.
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