Gourmet Guide - Winter issue by Natalie

MAGAZINE WINTER 2020

HYGGE

AND NEW NORDIC CUISINE

HOME-GROWN South Africa's indigenous ingredients

heart-warming INDIAN RECIPES TO SPICE UP WINTER

HAND-PICKED CHEFS SHARE THEIR HOME-MADE RECIPES

amuse bouche

WELCOME FROM THE EDITOR

new Nordic cuisine at home DINING ON YOUR DOORSTEP

One, two or three plates?

uth Africa’s premium restaurant recognition of ongoing excellence

many countries restaurants aspire to a one, two or three-star rating. In South Africa, restaurants m for one, two or three plates, the ultimate accolade.

e prestigious plate rating, which equates to global standards of evaluating and rewarding refined d fine-dining establishments, has been lauded for its authenticity, impartiality and credibility. It ebrates the uniquity of South African cuisine. This is a collector’s keepsake of inspiring stories of e plated restaurants and awarded chefs that have elevated SA into a prime culinary destination.

scover what makes them tick, new chefs who are making their mark and established chefs ding new ways to feed voracious appetites – from classic and conservative to daring and fferent. Discerning diners trust the guide and its recommendations, using it to plan their culinary urneys around the country. Sandwiched between these covers are their mouthwatering, original cipes, personally tested by the chefs.

In stores now

indigenous ingredients

Plates are awarded for: excellent cuisine

exceptional dining that demands a detour

world-class destination dining – worthy of a flight

QUALITY INGREDIENTS GROWN AND PRODUCED IN SOUTH AFRICA

Jenny Handley

e plate rating was conceptualized by respected food writer and curator, Jenny Handley, proudly uth African, who believes that SA deserves front row on the culinary stage. She travels the obe to meet chefs and recruit reviewers, to review top restaurants, benchmark standards and to date her formal food qualifications. Jenny owns a brand performance business and in this guide e combines her passion for food, words and brand. SA R299.00

PLATED RESTAURANTS, AWARDED CHEFS & RECIPES South Africa’s premier restaurant recognition

15.indd All Pages

2019/10/02 13:26:44

Meet the team

Editor – Jenny Handley Production and copy editing – Natalie Brock Contributors – Beryl Menezes, Debbie Schermi, Julie- Ann Michell and Chris Tunnicliffe Design and layout – Wilna Combrinck Cover photograph – Claire Gunn Proofreading – Kristen Brock Sales – Jeanne van Rooyen, Shirley Roos and Anne Marais

Contact details

P.O. Box 32216, Camps Bay, 8040 +27 437 0334 | rsvp@jhpr.co.za www.gourmetguide.co.za jhp_gourmet_guide jenny_handley Jenny Handley Performance Management Stock images from unsplash.com JHP Gourmet Guide™

A spicy affair

haute reads JASON WHITEHEAD'S LOCKDOWN COOKBOOK

page 34 Thali by Claire Gunn

with signature recipes

restaurant reviews

A LINGERING LUNCH – LE CHÊNE 22 THE LAST SUPPER – FYN AND ZENIYA 26

the gourmet’s and connoisseur’s choice ASCEND ARTISANAL GIN AND AIOLI HOMEMADE FOODS

a spicy affair

ALLOW THE SPICES OF INDIA TO TURN UP THE HEAT THIS WINTER 34 RECIPES FROM THALI AND UPPER BLOEM RESTAURANT 40

from dining out to dining in

DINING IN WITH THE CHEFS FROM PLATED RESTAURANTS – SALSIFY, THE POT LUCK CLUB AND THE TEST KITCHEN

in my drawers

TOP FEMALE CHEFS SHARE THEIR FAVOURITE KITCHEN WEAPONS

business boomers

THE STORY OF HOW THE WOLF MET THE HARE

gourmet growing

PLANTING AND GROWING FRUIT AND VEG FROM FRESH PRODUCE AT HOME

recipes from chefs at home

RESTAURANTS FEATURED IN THE 2020 JHP GOURMET GUIDE SHARE THEIR RECIPES

food-writing course BECOME A CERTIFIED GOURMET WRITER

HYGGE IS DESCRIBED AS THE FEELING OF BEING COCOONED AND SAFE, SHIELDED FROM THE HARSHNESS OF THE WORLD.

amuse bouche

AMUSE BOUCHE

From our homes and hearts to yours... Pronounced ‘hooga’, hygge means well-being, coziness and intimacy. Picture yourself, clad in comfy leggings, sitting in an uncluttered room on a comfortable couch, with good lighting, candles flickering and a cashmere rug over your legs. You’re wearing a thick, woolly jersey and your hands are encircling a mug of hot chocolate. There is a pastry or piece of cake on a plate on the stylish table in front of you. You have just eaten a hearty meal – comfort food. That’s hygge. That’s how this issue was created – at home.

community of gourmet followers, down. I start each day by compiling a gratitude list and they are right up there with a warm bed, food and the love of family and friends. We’ve spiced up your winter with some tantalizing Indian fare, but the rest of the buffet is all local. Handpicked chefs have tested recipes in their own kitchens to share with you; we’ve discovered handcrafted products and given guidance so that you can cultivate your own homegrown produce. Discover indigenous ingredients on our doorstep that are heralded all over the world. From the last of fine-dining out with legendary chef Shin Takagi to now being a fine time to dine in – devour tales of iconic chefs who continue to inspire us with their innovation, resilience and crucially, their community spirit.

Hygge is also described as the feeling of being cocooned and safe, shielded from the harshness of the world. In addition to fear, uncertainty and desperation, lockdown has provided time for quiet, reflection and gratitude. Never has community or collaboration felt more important. I write this with one hand, halfway through two months of recuperating in a sling after shoulder surgery – it’s like sleeping upright in cattle class! There is nothing singlehanded about this magazine. I’ve never been more grateful for being part of a determined, dedicated team that vowed they would put this edition together, regardless of revenue. We could not let you, our ever-expanding

I finish each day asking myself if I have learnt something and contributed to others. There are countless feeding schemes and projects in need at hand. Follow the sterling example of the chefs, be hands-on and make your difference too. Stay safe, stay warm.

Jenny Handley 5

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

HAUTE TRAVEL

New Nordic cuisine at home BY JENNY HANDLEY

“New Nordic cuisine is more than just ingredients, it is a feel, a mood using textures of wood, stone and leaves that emphasise the clean tastes yet lend them comfort.”

HAUTE TRAVEL

Many South African chefs admire the simplicity and ethos of new Nordic cuisine. It was this, her Danish ancestry and the fascination for all things hygge that inspired Jenny Handley to make a long-awaited reservation at noma.

the link between nature and cooking, thereby unleashing the potential of the ingredients and creating a national identity for their cuisine. It needed to provide joy and pleasure, to be admired and respected.

WHEN THE COVID-19 VIRUS CHANGED HER PLANS, SHE DECIDED TO CONTINUE HER RESEARCH AND DINE OUT VICARIOUSLY. For the uninitiated, restaurant noma was opened in Copenhagen in 2003 by Claus Meyer, who wanted to work solely with Nordic produce and to restore the harmony between food and the planet. He employed 25-year-old RenĂŠ Redzepi as head chef and partner. Together these men took the culinary world by storm, and the new Nordic cuisine that has captivated chefs and food lovers globally, was born. The philosophy? To cook only with Nordic produce to repair

These two trailblazers organised the New Nordic Cuisine Symposium in 2004, collaborating with other top chefs in their area, to develop a manifesto, a guiding light to inspire and follow. The manifesto aims to express the purity, freshness, simplicity and ethics of the region and reflect the changes of the seasons with ingredients and produce from their

Danish capital, Copenhagen. Here you may start your day traditionally with rye bread, eggs and coffee, or coffee at an artisanal bakery where pastries like cardamom buns provide the kick start. Smokehouses are popular. Lunch is often eaten on the run (Danes leave work early to fetch their children), and the smørrebrød is a must either seated in a restaurant, at the counter, or as a takeaway. In addition to herring and snaps, sausages and burgers are popular. Afternoon breaks are part of the relaxed culture, either outdoors in parks at the harbour or quay in summer, in winter in a cosy café. Danes like to eat out, but also love entertaining in their homes for a hygge-like time. Robust stews, soups, roasts and comfort food dominate the table in winter, and fermented dishes, made when seasonal ingredients are blooming, are plentiful. A bounty of fresh fish and seafood is appreciated, and the spoils of urban farming treasured. In summer an outside

own climate, landscape and waters. Mandating the combination of good taste and modern knowledge of health and well-being, it promotes Nordic produce, producers and their culture plus animal welfare and ethical production. Encouraging the development of potential in new applications of traditional products is vital. It combines the best cookery and culinary traditions with global influences, and local self-sufficiency with regional sharing of high-quality products. The chefs are supported by industry and other cookery craftsmen. It’s a successful collaboration and now ongoing way of life that has put new Nordic cuisine on the map as one to admire and aspire to. Many iconic chefs in South Africa have their feet firmly on the soil. For them too it’s about local produce, foraging for or growing unusual, undiscovered ingredients. The similarity of the two cuisines is discernable. Let’s look at

barbecue, like the South African braai, is a must. Apart from the smørrebrød, could this not be a description of Cape Town? Debbie Schermi, a private chef living in Malta, is currently studying food-writing online through the Gourmet Guide. She records her internship at noma as a career definer. I drilled her to discover more… HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE NEW NORDIC CUISINE? I would say new Nordic cuisine really focuses on respecting what the environment that you are cooking in has to offer you. Creating the desired tastes, contrasts, acidic components using ingredients native to the region without importing or growing anything that wouldn’t naturally grow there. I believe it is letting the ingredient, picked in its prime, speak in its simplicity. New Nordic cuisine is incredibly complex in its uses of layering techniques. It uses products from the areas, manipulated in a variety of ways, stored and fermented with

Snaps Smørrebrød

Learn the lingo ‘SMØRREBRØD’ is a traditional Scandinavian open-faced sandwich that usually consists of a piece of buttered rye bread, a dense, dark brown bread, topped with commercial or homemade cold cuts, pieces of meat or fish, cheese or spreads, and garnishes. ‘SNAPS’ is a Danish and Swedish word for a small shot of a strong alcoholic beverage taken during the course of a meal.

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

patience to reach the height of what they can be. It is delicate, yet bold, simple yet complex. Amplifying, intensifying and highlighting flavours. New Nordic is more than just taste. It sets itself apart through its ethos of sustainability, the emphasis on relationships with producers and product traceability. YOUR FAVOURITE DISH WHILE WORKING AT NOMA? I had two favourite dishes whilst I worked there. One that I really enjoyed preparing whilst the other was breath-taking to eat. The first was considered one of the snack plates. It was Autumn at the time, so the base plate was layered with carefully positioned dried leaves. Nestled in these leaves were five or six different bites. One for example was a dehydrated plum leather, very tart, moulded into a leaf. Another was a delicate branch carefully dotted with soured cream, tiny nasturtium leaves and ants. This was always the most fun to make.

WHICH INGREDIENTS TYPIFY NEW NORDIC CUISINE? (I would say that) there was a focus on vegetables and wild plants, seaweeds like sea buckthorn, mosses, yet not forgetting game meat and incredible seafood. To me new Nordic cuisine is more than just ingredients, it is a feel, a mood using textures of wood, stone and leaves that emphasise the clean tastes yet lend them comfort. WHAT EDIBLE MEMORY DID YOU BRING HOME FROM COPENHAGEN? I would say slightly dangerously, a curiosity to try, smell and touch all the plants that I find here in Malta. I am more curious about the plants that grow around us and how they can safely be incorporated into dishes. It also made me a lot more conscientious about what grows on the island, what ingredients have little recognition and how much food is imported. On a more practical level, those cardamom buns! References:

However, the dish that made me pause and took my breath away was a scallop that was shucked to order so that it almost still pulsed, served sliced, raw in its shell dressed with a mussel liquor. It was so sweet, fresh and sublime.

The Nordic Kitchen – one year of family cooking, by Claus Meyer. Copenhagen Cult Recipes, by Christine Rudolph and Susie Theodorou. The Little Book of Hygge, by Meik Wiking.

Scot Kirton, executive chef of three-plated La Colombe in Cape Town, visited noma in 2019. "Eating at the new Noma was a real experience, it was simple and fresh, we went during the vegetable season and had 18 courses dedicated to vegetables. They take fermentation to the next level. The technique of growing mould was interesting, but not so sure we would be attempting anything like that back home,” he says, when asked about the meal.

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

ROOIBOSÂ IS A SOUTH AFRICAN REDDISH PLANT GROWN PREDOMINANTLY IN THE CEDERBERG AREA SINCE THE 18TH CENTURY.

INDIGENOUS INGREDIENTS

Indigenous ingredients South Africa has much to be proud of in terms of culinary prowess, owed to quality ingredients that are grown and produced here. So unique that many are trademarked. The Gourmet Guide shares a few.

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

True coffee connoisseurs know and appreciate that the low caffeine levels of the RACEMOSA bean. It is naturally bitter yet light and refreshing. A tinge of liquorice and mint, smoky tones and the dry, woody taste, are distinctive flavours. Endemic to the coastal forests between Mozambique and northern KwaZuluNatal it is drought resistant, hardy, and resilient. Protected in South Africa because of its rarity, it is also difficult to get to, growing in remote areas which makes it naturally protected. The round fruits turn purplish in colour during their summer ripening. Many a visitor to South Africa departs with their duty-free allocation of AMARULA after enjoying it well-chilled over ice, or in a cocktail blended from whiskey or vodka. A cream liqueur, it is made from a base spirit distilled from fruits of the African marula tree, dubbed the elephant tree as they like to eat these fruits. They are carefully selected and hand-picked. A mixture of sugar and cream is created and added to the aged base. The result is a rich, creamy liqueur with a discreet caramel flavour. Taste slowly and notes of vanilla and spices will sing too.

INDIGENOUS INGREDIENTS

Certified KAROO MEAT of origin comes from the remote and pristine part of the country envied for its clean water and air. The certification mark is owned by the Karoo Development Foundation, certifying the origin of the mutton and lamb. It guarantees the origin from sheep born or raised in the Karoo region for at least six continuous months before slaughtering. These sheep graze naturally and are free of growth hormones. Slaughtering and processing is done in accordance to food safety standards. Most importantly, the taste is distinctive and delicious.

In 1925 two cultivars came together to create PINOTAGE, a wine indigenous to South Africa. This red grape variety is made from Pinot Noir and Cinsault (also known as Hermitage). Made in different styles, they are usually dark red. Expect the flavours of purple or red fruits, bold tannins in aged varieties with robust, earthy aromas of tobacco, bacon and Rooibos. This full-bodied varietal pairs well with meats like game and charcuterie and aged cheese.

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

HUGUENOT® CHEESE made by Dalewood Fromage is still the largest head produced in SA. Dedicated to the colourful heritage of this country, it is created from the pastures of the Cape. A semi-hard cheese, it is moulded into large, golden wheels, slow matured for at least six months. There are many other lesser-known crafted cheeses in this country, from BOKMAKIRI soft goat’s milk cheese to KWAITO mild, creamy cows’ milk cheese made by the Indezi River Cheese Company. Kwaito is a name given to a genre of music, also originating from the language of Isicamtho language, meaning ‘cool’. There are also lesser-known varieties of equivalent distinction and quality, like internationally award-winning WOOKIE AYRBY, named after a South African domestic worker called Wookie Ayrby Mkhize who lives in the rural, Midlands community of KwaZulu-Natal.

INDIGENOUS INGREDIENTS

These piquant, spicy and sweet peppers took the country by storm in the 90s when they were discovered in the Eastern Cape, then cultivated and processed in Tzaneen. The range of PEPPADEW® products is created and packaged to reflect the warmth and essence of Africa. SPEKBOOM (Portulacaria afra) also known as elephant food or pork bush, is endemic to South Africa. South Africa’s edible wonder plant, rich in vitamin C, has green succulent leaves that are photosynthetic, making plant food from sunlight. It sucks CO2 out of the atmosphere and is therefore known as a carbon sponge – one hectare can sequester four to 10 tons annually. Its sour, lemony flavour works well in pickles and salads and can be used to substitute nasturtium leaves in a dish. It grows predominantly in the Eastern Cape and thrives in poor soil.

Mineral-rich, flavourful and deemed healing, BALENI salt is used as a table salt, for healing and as a trading commodity. The indigenous Tsonga community has been sourcing it from a swamp created by a mineral spring, called Baleni, for approximately 2000 years. Considered sacred, the extraction is done with an ancestral, tradition ceremony. A winter harvest sees women collecting the white salt crust along the banks of the swamp. It is filtered and boiled then formed and was originally formed into cones for sun-baking. Now, it is stored as loose crystals in plastic vessels.

ROOIBOS is a South African reddish plant grown predominantly in the Cederberg area since the 18th century. Meaning ‘red bush’, rooibos leaves are commonly used for brewing a distinctive tea to which milk or lemon is added, or it is enjoyed au naturel. It is also a popular base for iced tea and red espresso. Sold as leaves and teabags, it is also available with other flavours added. It’s value lies not only in its distinctive flavour, the health and anti-aging properties of Rooibos are lauded, and it is exported worldwide.

INDIGENOUS INGREDIENTS

sauce. 5 When the mixture is thick, add the cheese and egg yolks and mix together until cheese has melted. 6 Whip up the egg whites until stiff peaks and fold into the cooled white sauce. 7 Pour into ramekins until half full and bake for 20 - 30 minutes au bain-marie. 8 Turn the oven down to 110°C for a further 30 minutes or until firm to touch. 9 Reheat at 190°C for 10 minutes when ready to serve. Grappa sauce 1 Bring the cream to a boil. 2 Remove from heat and whisk in the cheese. 3 Add Grappa and season to taste.

HUGUENOT SOUFFLÉ By three-plated Greenhouse restaurant at the Cellars-Hohenort Hotel INGREDIENTS Huguenot soufflé breadcrumbs 75g butter 80g flour 10g cornflour pinch of salt 2C milk 80g Huguenot cheese 20g Parmesan cheese 6 egg yolks 300g egg whites 20g chives

SIMPLE SPEKBOOM SALAD By Gourmet Guide, Jenny Handley INGREDIENTS 1 x 400g tin chickpeas, drained 2 large tomatoes, chopped 1 small red onion, finely chopped ½C spekboom leaves, washed 10g parsley, finely chopped 80ml olive oil 1T white wine vinegar 1T honey 1t Dijon mustard 1 clove garlic, crushed salt and pepper

Grappa sauce 250g cream 40g Huguenot cheese 12ml Grappa salt and pepper

METHOD 1 In a bowl combine chickpeas, tomatoes, onion, spekboom and parsley. Set aside. 2 Mix olive oil, vinegar, honey, mustard and garlic in a jar. Shake to be sure it’s well combined. 3 Pour dressing over salad, give it a toss, season accordingly and serve.

METHOD Huguenot soufflé 1 Preheat oven to 130°C. 2 Spray, butter and line ramekins with breadcrumbs. 3 In a saucepan melt butter, add both flours and salt mixing well. 4 Slowly add the milk and stir with a whisk so that no lumps form, this is your basic bechamel

SERVES 4

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

A LINGERING LUNCH

One sometimes contemplates what dishes should feature in a last meal. Jenny Handley was lucky that her last lunch review before lockdown was at Le chêne Restaurant on the Leeu Estates in Franschhoek.

The influence of chef de cuisine and owner Darren Badenhorst, who bases himself at sister restaurant, one-plated Le coin Français, was evident in every dish. Having opened Le coin Français mid-October 2017, two years later to the day he opened Le chêne (meaning ‘the oak tree’). The cross pollination of the two restaurants ensures that when you have been to one, you cannot wait to experience the other.

‘naartjcello’ cured and cold-smoked Franschhoek trout with mountain buchu and valley verde stole my heart. The main courses, a baked and BBQ local hake, prawn, salted lemon and garden pea risotto with an aerated bisque, and the slippery jack and leek ash-dusted venison loin, would satisfy the most discerning epicurean. The desserts were true to provenance and place. ‘A tribute to local honey’ – bavarois with a molten glaze, bee pollen, brûlée meringue and rose caviar – was as memorable as the chocolate terrarium of mushrooms. The stand-out, surprisingly, was the palate cleanser – an ode to the estate wines, a brûlée of grapes.

At Le chêne the outside comes in – 90 percent of the fresh produce is from the estate and the influence of nature is depicted in the décor and dishes. My companion and I were equally impressed by our starters. I wistfully admired her burrata salad with saffron heirloom-tomato ragout and wild rosemary shortbread until my

Service was informative and attentive, but we were encouraged to linger to enjoy the sophisticated surrounds. “Every day is breathtaking, the team is great. Darren’s style pays tribute to his ingredients,” says Oelof. We say provocative, thoughtful and impressive, to be remembered for as long as lockdown lasts.

THE EXCURSION STARTED WITH A GARDEN TOUR LED BY ANIMATED AND ENTHUSIASTIC HEAD CHEF OELOF VORSTER AND FINISHED WITH A VIEWING OF THEIR ENVIABLE WINE CELLAR.

A lingering lunch – Le chêne 22

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

A LINGERING LUNCH

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GOURMET GUIDE/AUTUMN 2020

THE LAST SUPPER

When four hands hold an unforgettable dining experience, you know it will be exceptional. What Jenny Handley did not know was that it would be her last fine-dining adventure for a while, a ‘last supper’ before lockdown.

or the zen-like ceiling, it was all eyes on Shin creating sushi. Poetry in motion. With Moët & Chandon in hand we reacquainted with Shin taking care not to distract him. Less than a year ago we had savoured the unforgettable experience of dining at his restaurant, followed by a morning in the markets of Kanazawa together where we witnessed not only his respect for ingredients, but more importantly how suppliers respected him.

THERE IS NOTHING LIKE GOING OUT ON A HIGH. AS I WRITE THIS I CAN CLOSE MY EYES AND TASTE THE FLAVOURS; I CAN SEE THE INTRICATE DISHES AND AGAIN APPRECIATE THE PURE GENIUS OF JAPANESE CHEF SHIN TAKAGI OF TWO MICHELIN-STARRED ZENIYA IN KANAZAWA AND PETER TEMPELHOFF OF TWO-PLATED FYN IN CAPE TOWN.

The last supper –

FYN and Zeniya 26

It was a three-night culinary adventure for Shin, his first visit to Africa. Night one was a special dinner at Ellerman House, where his friend, fellow chef Peter is Culinary Director. Friday and Saturday were dinners at FYN for members of the public who were quick off the mark to make a reservation for a trip to gourmet heaven. It was with a frisson of excitement and anticipation that we took our seats at the counter with a bird’s eye view of two maestros at work. Rather than being distracted by the spectacular vista of Table Mountain,

The selection of four canapés was equally sensational – prawn and seaweed with a sesame soya gel, then daikon with carrot, soba and sancho, then a delicate dish that simply combined thin strips of squid with figs and lastly a tuna and seabass nigiri. The array of dishes that followed showcasing the marriage of Japanese and South African flavours was equally impressive. It began with goma tofu with ikura and shoya. The tuna and lobster sashimi with chirizu sauce had

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

A traditional kaiseki dining experience is a series of exquisitely served dishes, in which the relationship between the produce and the plate is of paramount importance.

and once the pressure of service abated, Shin offered Ashley a personal sushi lesson. We watched in delight.

discreet tones of yuzu and mirin. The kingklip tempura with mussel nestled graciously on a pool of piquant lemon miso. The eel and foie gras with dashi leeks and white ponzu was a highlight. The responsibly-sourced abalone and Chilean seabass with jibuni and wasabi stimulated memories of the days when we dived unrestricted for abalone, and how at my 25th birthday we served it for 50 people! It is now a delicacy and a treat.

Brown sugar ice cream sprinkled with sesame seeds and the camembert cheesecake with yuzu quince and a pine nut biscotti were both heavenly. The Japanese are very proud of their sweets made from beans, the only part of their cuisine after which I do not hanker. Dry sweets brought specially from Kanazawa and red bean and mint brought a oncein-a-lifetime dinner to a close.

Shin had brought many of his ingredients from Japan for this occasion, including his favourite saké. Each course was perfectly paired with iconic South African wines or Japanese saké. The Wagyu beef with tomatillo and chicken jus was harmonized with a Kanonkop Cabernet 2010, with general manager and wine connoisseur Jennifer Hugé then treating us to the 2009 vintage too, to make a comparison. Both were blissful. Chefs Peter Tempelhoff and Ashley Moss were hard at work in the background ensuring that every diner was happy,

A quick chat with Shin after dinner revealed that he planned to spend his one day in Cape Town paragliding. With the southeaster blowing his penchant for adventure was instead fuelled by the heat of the fire on the mountain near Ellerman House where he was safely ensconced. Hours after lockdown in South Africa had been announced he made his way safely back to Japan, leaving behind indelible food memories for all those who were fortunate to feel the heat of four hands coming together in harmony.

JAPANESE INGREDIENTSÂ daikon winter radish soba buckwheat

Zeniya Kanazawa is where the sushi conveyor belt originated. Zeniya, one of its flagship restaurants, offers the traditional kaiseki dining experience. A series of exquisitely served dishes, in which the relationship between the produce and the plate is of paramount importance. This family restaurant has seating for eight at the counter, plus a private dining room. Chef Shin personally prepares and serves the dishes. The restaurant entrance is understated, like most Michelin-starred restaurants in Japan, their two stars are not publicly displayed. Discretion is preferred. Part of the Relais & ChĂ˘teaux family, this restaurant perfectly showcases and balances the cornerstones of the brand. www.relaischateaux.com/us/ japan/zeniya-ishikawa

sancho pepper nigiri sushi made from raw fish on rice goma tofu sesame tofu ikura salmon caviar shoya soya sauce chirizu mildly spicy dipping sauce miso fermented paste made from soya beans dashi fish stock ponzu citrus-based sauce jibuni traditional stew from Kanazawa wasabi horseradish yuzu sauce made from the yuzu fruit

Visit www.fynrestaurant.com to discover how FYN can deliver a kaiseki or family dinner to your home.

The gourmet’s choice AIOLI HOMEMADE FOODS After years of working together as frontrunners in South Africa’s catering industry, chef duo Annalize Buchanan and Ollie Swart introduce Aioli; a series of homemade sauces and condiments inspired by years of cooking beautiful, wholesome food. At Aioli, the quality of ingredients is of utmost importance. The chefs focus on using locally-sourced produce wherever possible, which is used in a way that allows nature to do the talking. Annalize and Ollie believe that a sauce or condiment can take a meal from ordinary to extraordinary, and hope that Aioli can add a small touch of magic to your meals!

The connoisseur’s choice ASCEND HANDCRAFTED CITRUS GIN With an abundance of craft gins being made in the Cape, it’s refreshing to discover one handcrafted in Jozi. And refreshing it is – urban, modern, vibrant. It’s an easy-drinking gin with ascending notes created from nine meticulously selected botanicals. Made by Ol’ Jimmy’s, renowned for their bespoke house brands crafted for corporates, chefs and restaurants, and special occasions, it’s in a class of its own.

The Famous Herb Salad Dressing, Red Chilli, Green Chilli, Korean BBQ and Homemade Sweet Mustard are priced between R85 and R95, the Truffle and Asian miso Aioli are R120. Place your order online via their website www.aioli.co.za. They are currently delivering to all areas of Cape Town and Stellenbosch on Wednesdays and Thursdays.

To enjoy this handcrafted citrus gin, please click below website

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To enjoy this handcrafted citrus gin, please click below website

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ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. NOT FOR SALE TO PERSONS UNDER THE AGE OF 18

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

A SPICY AFFAIR

A spicy

affair

with local produce to make curry, and hence the popularity of the ‘Durban curry’. Durban, in KwaZulu-Natal, has the largest Indian population in SA. The ‘bunny chow’, also a trademark South African dish which is a hollowed-out loaf of bread filled with curry, also has its origins in Durban, where the bania or Indian trading community served it as a one-pot meal.

THE HEADY AROMAS OF GINGER, CARDAMOM AND TEA LEAVES BREWING TOGETHER FOR A COMFORTING CUPPA CHAI IS A COMMON FEATURE OF MOST INDIAN HOUSEHOLDS ON CHILLY WINTER MORNINGS. In South Africa, the current lockdown due to the Covid-19 pandemic also means more home-cooked meals with family, often over a steaming bowl of umngqusho, waterblommetjie bredie, spicy Durban curry or simple soup for the soul. It is the subtle spices in these dishes that emit warmth, aromas and flavours that truly spice up Winter.

Thali by Claire Gunn

Sensuous, simmering, sumptuous spice sensations for this winter by Beryl Menezes, who recently moved to Johannesburg from her hometown of Mumbai. She shares both her love and knowledge of Indian cuisine, and that of equally passionate locals.

With the passage of time and the spread of the South African Indian community, Indian cuisine and spices came to be loved and enjoyed across the country. THE RISING POPULARITY OF INDIAN CUISINE

Spices have been around for over 7000 years. The word ‘spice’ comes from the Latin species, signifying a commodity of value and distinction. Precious to traders in the 16th and 17th centuries, spices were used as a preservative and for embalming. They were highly regarded for their healing properties as much as they were for their fragrance and imparting exotic flavours to food. Spices travelled to South Africa with the Indian indentured labourers in the 1800’s who used them

The best way to showcase a country’s cultural heritage is often through its cuisine. With food at the centre of most festivities, and the tradition of sharing meals as a community being common to both Indian and South African culture, the Indian influence on the local palate was no surprise. “So much of what could be considered South African food has been influenced

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

population, more Indian restaurants, as well as ready mixes which can be easily turned into delicious Indian meals at home. “Two of our most popular spices are mother-in-law masala, a staple Durban fiery curry mix named after the stereotypical firebrand Indian motherin-law and Durban style leaf masala, an all-purpose spice blend,” they tell us.

by Malay, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Indian and indigenous African palates. If there was one common denominator, it is that all the resulting dishes are big on flavour,” remarks Johannesburgbased writer and photographer, Saaleha Idrees Bamjee. These varied influences have also resulted in the ubiquitous flavour profile of each region across the country. “In Durban, the Indian cuisine is authentic and more robust with a lot of chilli used, owing to the large Indian population there. Cape Town’s Malay influence means more pickles, atchaar, chutneys and sambal in Indian preparations, while in Johannesburg, the Indian curries are milder in spice quotient, since the population here enjoys nursing a drink along with their meal,” explains celebrated Chef Sizo Henna, who owns Johannesburg’s upmarket restaurant, Blaque Bistro.

Johannesburg-based Akhalwaya’s Spice on Grant, affiliated to Akhalwaya’s Spice Importers, have been in the spice business in South Africa for over 70 years. According to current proprietors Ahmed Akhalwaya and Zaheda Motala, while there has always been a good demand for Indian spices, the recent preference for a vegetarian diet corresponds to the rising prominence of spices which lend great flavour to vegetarian dishes. COOKING WITH SPICES

Undoubtedly the sumptuous Indian restaurant fare of popular dishes like butter chicken, korma, vindaloo, and biryani piqued the curiosity of patrons to replicate the same at home, opening up the avenue for the proliferation of Indian spice stores.

As the wintry weather calls for soothing, sumptuous meals which are high on flavour and provide the much-needed body heat, there can be nothing better than an Indian curry. “Curries work best for this cold

THE SPICE TRAIL MOST POPULAR INDIAN DISHES

Vinod and Chandrika Harie have been running The Spice Emporium in Durban since 1988. They report a growing demand for their spice blends by both Indians and South Africans. They attribute the rising popularity of spices to cooking shows, growing awareness of a well-travelled, multicultural

Breyani, Durban curry, bunny chow, butter chicken, vindaloo, korma, tikka masala, samoosa, sambal, chutney, poppadoms.

NAQIYAH MAYAT'S CREAMY BUTTER CHICKEN

A SPICY AFFAIR

season because of their heat and the healing properties of spices used in their preparation,” says Rickan Naidoo, proprietor of the five-year old Bryanstonbased restaurant, The Curry Boss. “You can make a curry using almost any ingredient, including our local indigenous produce. I use spices like chilli and turmeric powder on braais or in stews, while ginger, garlic, cinnamon, cardamom, aniseed and paprika are all used in local South African dishes as well.” Naidoo claims to have customers coming in from all over South Africa to taste his Durban-style, Indian-fusion specialities like bunny chow, samp and mutton, trotters and beans, and lamb biryani. While ready masalas and curry pastes are a shortcut to easy Indian home cooking, Johannesburg-based author and influencer, Naqiyah Mayat, believes there is nothing like cooking with spices from scratch. “The inspiration behind my recently released book, ‘The Beginning: Indian recipes from my home’ which is the first part of a trilogy, is to introduce and familiarise people with cooking with Indian spices through simple recipes, refuting the need for preservative-laden ready mixes. I have also partnered with Akhalwaya’s Spices on Grant to come up with a 15-spice basic starter pack which people can buy to aid them with cooking the recipes in my book,” she tells us.

Photograph by Claire Gunn

CROSSING BOUNDARIES Spices today have crossed the boundaries between Indian and South African cuisine, with chicken curry

THE IMPORTANCE OF TEMPERING SPICES Tempering whole spices in a bit of ‘ghee’ (clarified butter) or roasting dry spices beforehand, pounding them to a powder, helps release essential oils, hidden antioxidants and aromatics, besides enhancing the overall flavour of the dish. The heat from the pan is the catalyst for the flavour molecules to become more active and transmittable. Frying also takes away some of the moisture in the spice and concentrates the flavour.

and pap, cinnamon-spiced bobotie, paprika-flavoured sausages, koeksister made with ginger and mixed spice, mielie-meal roti and even cardamom and nutmeg-spiced South African desserts, all being enjoyed by the larger population. According to Cape Town-based chef Emma Hofmans, “I cook with a lot of cumin, turmeric, ginger, garlic, garam masala, chilli and coriander. Karoo lamb is wonderful with Indian flavours, while our local fish, kingklip, also goes well in an Indian curry. Besides, Indian spices could also be paired with sorghum, cassava and madumbi.” Nafisa Akabor, a Durban-born technology journalist and food blogger

Clockwise from top: Vinod and Chandrika Harie of The Spice Emporium in Durban; Upper Bloem Restaurant's red chicken curry; The Curry Boss' signature bunny chow; Saaleha Idrees Bamjee's steak-and-coconut curry; Naqiyah Mayat, the Johannesburg-based author of 'The Beginning: Indian Recipes from my home'; an array of dishes from Thali

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

SPICES AND HEALTH BENEFITS The redeeming quality of spices goes beyond that of being mere fragrance boosters and flavour enhancers. If variety is the spice of life, then spices, with their numerous health benefits can definitely add longevity to your years. Turmeric, which can be added to warm milk and honey as a winter nightcap or consumed as a latte, has antiinflammatory properties. Cloves, cumin, nutmeg, black pepper, ginger, garlic and coriander help boost the immune system, while chillies and cinnamon have antioxidant properties, which can control cholesterol. Breath fresheners fennel and cardamom aid in digestion, while bay leaf has antibacterial properties. The list is endless. To be sure, the secret to staying healthy and happy is adding a touch of spice to your life.

POPULAR INDIAN SPICES IN SOUTH AFRICA Cumin, coriander, cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, bay leaf, fennel, black pepper.

STEAMED LINEFISH WITH SAFFRON-CHILLI CREAM SAUCE By Liam Tomlin of Thali INGREDIENTS 30g butter 30g red onion, peeled and finely chopped 10g garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 pinch salt 1 pinch chilli flakes 1 pinch saffron 1C coconut cream 1 lime cheek 4 x 100g portions skinless kingklip vegetable oil 1 bunch spring onions, washed and sliced 2 red chillies, sliced 50g deep-fried shallots (see separate recipe) micro coriander for garnish METHOD 1 In a medium-sized saucepan, melt butter and add red onion, garlic and salt and sweat down until soft and translucent. Add chilli flakes and saffron and cook out for a further 5 minutes until the saffron has bled out. Add coconut cream and reduce by a third and remove from the heat. Squeeze in the juice of 1 lime cheek and adjust seasoning. 2 If you do not have a steamer at home, the best alternative would be to take a large deep pot and place a colander into the pot and pour just enough water into the bottom of the pot so that the water level sits just below the bottom of the colander. Bring water up to the boil and lower the heat so that it’s

brown. 2 Remove from the heat and, using a slotted spoon, lift the onions out of the oil and drain on paper towel to absorb any excess oil. 3 Season to taste with salt and pepper. When the oil is cool, pour it through a fine sieve into a clean, airtight container until ready to use again.

just simmering and cover with a lid. 3 Take the fish, brush it with vegetable oil and season it well with salt and pepper. Place the fish onto a piece of parchment paper into the bottom of the colander and cover the pot with a lid. 4 The amount of time the fish needs in the steamer depends on the thickness of the fish. A guideline would be to use a 100g piece of fish as a single serving for main course size, and steam it for approximately 8 - 10 minutes. An easy way to check if the fish is done is to probe it with a skewer. There should be no resistance on the fish and the tip of the skewer should come out warm. 5 Transfer the fish to a plate, spoon a generous amount of warm sauce over the fish, garnish it with sliced spring onions, sliced red chilli, deep fried shallots and micro coriander. Serve immediately.

MAKES 200G

SERVES 4 Chef’s note: To store, pour into a clean, dry, airtight container and refrigerate. The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. DEEP-FRIED SHALLOTS INGREDIENTS 750ml vegetable oil 4 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced sea salt freshly-ground black pepper

Thali by Claire Gunn

adds, “We made our own chilli biltong when I was a teenager. You can also cook potjiekos, which is similar to a curry if you think about it, and add spices for an Indian flavour. Besides, ostrich fillets, chakalaka, boerewors, bobotie, and vetkoek with savoury mince, all lend themselves well to Indian spices.”

A SPICY AFFAIR

METHOD 1 In a heavy-based saucepan, heat the oil to 170°C. Add the onion and, stirring frequently, cook until crisp and golden

A SPICY AFFAIR

6 mushrooms, sliced 3 shallots, peeled and sliced 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 2 green chillies, chopped 1 small piece of ginger, peeled and chopped ¼ lemongrass stick, finely chopped 1T red curry paste ¼C tomato puree ½ tin coconut milk 4 kaffir lime leaves 1T tamarind paste 2T fish sauce 1T sugar or honey pinch salt jasmine rice METHOD 1 Fry the chicken cubes in a frying pan with coconut oil till golden and cooked. Take out the pan and set aside. 2 Season the mushrooms and aubergine and fry in more coconut oil. Set aside with chicken. 3 In same pan sweat shallots, then add garlic, chillies, ginger, lemongrass and red curry paste. Cook for 5 - 7 minutes. 4 Add in the tomato puree and cook for a further minute. Then add coconut milk and lime leaves. Reduce heat and simmer slowly for 20 minutes. 5 Season with fish sauce, tamarind and sugar (or honey) to taste. 6 Add the chicken, aubergine and mushroom back into the pan and mix through until heated up again. 7 Serve with jasmine rice.

STAY-AT-HOME RED CHICKEN CURRY By Henry Vigar of one-plated Upper Bloem Restaurant This dish is inspired by a Thai red curry – adapted to incorporate veggies we have at home and staples from the pantry. INGREDIENTS 2 chicken breasts, diced 1T coconut oil 1 small aubergine, peeled and diced

SERVES 2

Indian spice stores CAPE TOWN Atlas Trading Co. 104 Wale Street, Schotsche Kloof

Mumbai Spiceworks Shop No. 7, 319 Felix Dlamini Road, Overport

Cape Spice Emporium 176 Imam Haron Road, Claremont

JOHANNESBURG Akhalwaya’s Spice On Grant 53 Grant Avenue, Norwood

Zam Zam Spices 61 Ruth Road, Rylands

Saravana’s Spices Corner Rivonia Road & 11th Avenue, Rivonia

House of Spice Shop G93A, Parow Centre, Voortrekker Road, Parow

Little India Spice & Grocery store 333, Rivonia Boulevard, Edenburg, Sandton

DURBAN The Spice Emporium Monty Naicker Street

India Waale 138, 11 Street, Parkmore, Sandton th

Gorima’s The Pavilion, Jack Martens Drive, Dawncliffe

Oriental Plaza 38-60, Lilian Ngoyi Street, Fordsburg

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

From dining out to

dining in

FROM DINING OUT TO DINING IN

As restaurants reboot and offer home deliveries, Jenny Handley supported three chefs from plated restaurants in Cape Town, to review what is on offer for a gourmet gathering of two.

FLAVOUR IS AN ESSENTIAL

POT LUCK PANACHE

Chef Ryan Cole of one-plated Salsify has always impressed with his careful consideration, interesting flavour combinations of quality ingredients and ingenuity. He has successfully managed to make his mark with Essentials by Ryan Cole.

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always loved the feast of Asian flavours at two-plated The Pot Luck Club. When I saw that they were offering a dining-in option, I was first in line. In my enthusiasm I ordered on a Monday morning for dinner that night not realising that delivery is speedy, daily from 12h00, with last orders being taken at 18h45. Dinner arrived at lunch time. In my urgency I double-ordered the fish sliders but was able to make the evidence of my stupidity magically disappear moments after delivery. That night my husband and I sat down to the delightful array of dishes which reheated to perfection.

A light, tasty fettuccine and fennel salad tossed with a subtle dressing was followed by slices of pork covered in a tangy Balinese dressing â&#x20AC;&#x201C; sublime. It was served with a small portion of roasted root vegetables and a coleslaw, finally tailed by tiramisu. The joy of having a weekly date night for two had cemented itself with a good start. At R395 plus R50 delivery, well worth the treat. There is a spectrum of mouthwatering deli essentials in addition to the three-course menu that changes weekly. Orders close at 10pm for nextday delivery. WhatsApp: 0827615270 or email cole.ryan@live.com.

FISH SLIDERS FROM THE POT LUCK CLUB

After the scrumptious fish sliders, we devoured the crispy calamari with spicy soy dressing and then the prawn laska Malaysian curry. We took a break from sharing, the carnivore taking first dibs on the braaied Asian pork rib with slaw and I the peri-peri chicken, charred pepper

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

and kale salad. It is recommended that you order between five and eight dishes for two people. We were well sated with these five and could not have managed dessert in spite of them being enticing. Monday night madness comes at a cost, but we loved every mouthful. A GIFT THAT KEEPS ON GIVING I may have initially balked at the investment required for a Luke Dale Roberts Gourmet Hamper, but it left a good taste in my mouth. Designed as a treat or gift that can form the foundation of a few quality meals, it is three-plated The Test Kitchen’s characteristic excellence that is yet again unquestionable. As the bespoke box was revealed beneath artisanal breads, I lifted the printed cloth to expose the spoils that would provide three dinners for two, and more. Directions and details of what to eat when, heating and serving suggestions, were included. Dinner one began with a few slices of slow-smoked Norwegian salmon, cured in citrus for 24 hours then slow-smoked for 12. I served it with a dollop of the piquant horseradish crème fraîche, a cucumber-and-dill compote and baguette slices. The classic chicken, leek and mushroom pie with its gentle touch of tarragon, accompanied by Joel Robuchon’s buttery mash, was rich and satisfying, so that we could not contemplate dessert.

beetroot and a selection of goat’s cheese (from third-generation master cheesemaker Pepe of Kommetjie). The superb duck and pork belly country pâté was elevated with country bread and homemade apple chutney. Teamed with a glass of Taittinger, a beautiful sunset was viewed through rose-tinted glasses! Rose-scented meringue baskets dusted in pistachios and Iranian rose petals were filled with a heavenly berry compote and spoonful of vanilla mascarpone. Oh yum… and there were still four more… The third dinner was beef bourguignonne, a rich stew created from grass-fed beef shin, red wine and aromatics, with the last of the mash. I picked spinach from my garden, steamed it and stirred the remains of the horseradish crème fraîche through it, and voila. We opened a bottle of 2011 Hartenberg Shiraz and felt like a king and queen. Two more sumptuously-filled meringues followed, with the last two still waiting in the wings. There are five options available to choose between, ranging from vegetarian at R1500 to top of the range hampers of R5000. Visit www.lukedaleroberts.com/ to place your order online, available in Cape Town and Johannesburg. I applaud what many chefs are doing countrywide in taking their talents from dining out to dining in, from three course meals to à la carte and lockdown hampers. To buy a restaurant gift voucher through Dineplan visit voucherplan.co.za. Let’s all support them.

Night two saw us dining al fresco, a picnic of sophistication. The last of the salmon was now enjoyed with potted

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

IN MY DRAWERS...

To honour female chefs during August, Women’s Month, the Gourmet Guide quizzed some of SA’s women chefs countrywide about the arsenal of weapons in their kitchens without which they cannot live.

Chantel Dartnall SOUTH AFRICA’S MOST AWARDWINNING FEMALE CHEF AND QUEEN OF BOTANICAL CUISINE My beautiful bright red ‘zjoerr’ machine – (Bamix blender) is one of my favourite kitchen tools as it just makes life in the kitchen so much easier and this is my prized tool for making the most beautiful sauce foams.

In my drawers... 48

The one kitchen gadget that I just can’t live without is my Vulkanus knife sharpener. It is just so quick and easy to use and always ensures a perfect sharp edge to my beautiful knives. The tool that I use most in my home kitchen other than my knife is my Microplane long grater, it makes light work of zesting citrus and ensures that none of the bitter pith makes it into my baking or sauces.

IN MY DRAWERS...

Charné Sampson

Zola Nene

PREVIOUSLY SOUS CHEF AT LA COLOMBE BEFORE TAKING THE REINS AT EPICE Global knife – it’s a 14cm, Global GS series – I have a few different knives but there’s one I simply feel lost without when making any dish. It is the perfect size, not too heavy or light, I’d have to say it fits my hand like a glove. Spatula – I prefer using the medium Le Creuset spatula. It has dual use. The silicone heads are heat resistant up to 250°C, perfect to use when making a hot pot of food, no need to worry about the pot catching on the bottom or the spatula melting. Also helps when you need to scrape every last bit of batter from the mixing bowl. Measuring cups – I’m not picky. I must admit at home I could be found baking or making pastries a lot more often than cooking. Unlike cooking baking needs to be a lot more precise with regards to measurements, so without measuring cups I would truly be at a loss.

CHEF, AUTHOR, FOOD STYLIST AND JUDGE ON THE GREAT SOUTH AFRICAN BAKE OFF

Kayla-Ann Osborn THE CHEF RESPONSIBLE FOR ELEVATING DURBAN’S PROMINENCE ON THE FINE-DINING MAP My top weapons would be (and I’m super picky, it must work and not be over complicated) my cast-iron frying pan. It’s a lovely blue colour, like my KitchenAid. I cook everything in it. It’s got an amazing even heat. I actually have two of them as do my mom and sister. We all love them.

Microplane: I use mine every day – for grating ginger, garlic, lemon zest and cheese – it stays super sharp, which is why I love it so much! Pumpkin spatula (from Le Creuset): It’s a spatula and spoon rolled into one – it’s the perfect utensil! I use it for cooking and baking, it’s a definite fave! Speed peeler: It’s probably the cheapest utensil in my kitchen, but the most used. I use it for peeling (obvs) and for making ribbons for salads too.

The attachments for my KitchenAid from the JHP Gourmet Guide™ awards have become my right hand. I didn’t have one before and I have grown so attached to this. I make everything in it. Pasta dough, bread dough, cakes, whipped caramel ganache, everything. Third, and I think one of the most underrated little pieces in the kitchen, is a stick blender. Just a good old Braun stick blender. I finish off everything with it. I blend a block of butter into all of my sauces before I serve them. And we love gravy in our family so that too, gets a glossy finish with the stick blender and a blob of butter.

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

HOMEWARE FOR THE GOURMET…

Homeware for the gourmet…

A new, creative kid will be on the block in Chelsea Village, Wynberg, Cape Town, in the heart of the décor hub. Meanwhile customers can shop the world by browsing the online version, purchasing now for delivery later.

when, over not too few glasses of red, they had a fabulous idea. What if they could leave their husbands in charge of the children for a fortnight while they jetted off to France on a whirlwind trip of architecture, cheese, wine, a little bit of shopping and not a school lunch box in sight! Now, with an ideal location, a vast variety of unique findings from many exotic countries, their new journey of sharing their love of art, custom-made products, decor and gift store with the public, has begun.

Wolfe & Hare, a bespoke, luxurious interiors store will be opening their doors after lockdown finishes. Owners Kizzie Stenslunde and Amelia Audinwood, two eccentric, colourloving best friends have found the perfect space to unpack their artistic talents and one-of-a-kind discoveries. The story of how the Wolfe came to dance with the Hare started 10 years ago at the door of their off-springs’ classroom. They discovered a shared passion for art (both are talented artists), interior design, a blooming good laugh and a great cappuccino.

From Morocco to India, South Africa to Zimbabwe and France to Italy, the two artistic shoppers have created one-of-a-kind ranges of beautiful products from all over the globe. From exquisite art custom-printed onto fabric material with authentic kitchen and homeware boasting bold designs, the shop will be a cornucopia of colours. Tablecloths, napkins and aprons will whet your appetite, visit www.wolfeandhare.co.za.

However, their journey with Wolfe & Hare started in earnest seven years ago,

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

Gourmet growing

GOURMET GROWING

HAND PICK YOUR OWN HOMEGROWN PRODUCE, RE-GROWN FROM SCRAPS. JULIE-ANN MICHELL AND CHRIS TUNNICLIFFE OF JULIP LANDSCAPING PLANT THE SEEDS FOR YOU. Why not re-grow your store-bought veggies from scraps and rope the kids in for a lesson? TAKE HEED OF SEEDS Fruits such as peppers, tomatoes, lemons and pomegranates are easily grown from what we throw away. Keep the seeds that would usually be tossed and rinse them gently. Allow them to dry out for a few days (not the lemon pips, these must be moist when planted) in a brown paper bag, or anything that allows them to breathe, before planting at a depth of around 2cm in moist potting soil. Cover the top of the pot with cling film, poke small holes with a toothpick, and place in a sunny, warm location. Germination times will vary a little, but when the small seedlings sprout, remove the plastic covering and watch your beauties grow. Slices of your favourite tomato variety can be laid on the soil of a big pot plant. As the fleshy fruit dries out, it gives the seeds much-needed nutrients to germinate and grow. Just remember to choose a big pot, and keep it just for tomatoes, as they will grow incredibly fast. FIND YOUR ROOTS

Contact Julip Landscaping for tailor-made veggiegarden solutions on juliplandscaping@gmail.com.

Spring onions, leeks, celery, lemon grass and anything else sold with

roots still attached are even easier to grow. These are best stored at room temperature in a clear vase/glass with water. Harvest the leaves as needed and the rest stays fresher for far longer than when theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re refrigerated. While the method is the same for all of these, letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s take leeks for example: Cut the leek around 2cm from where the roots grow, place the root ball, cut-side up, in a shallow bowl and fill with water to just below your cut line. These will grow new leaves in a matter of hours and can be planted in a pot plant and placed in a sunny spot when the leaves are around 8cm tall.

TOP TIPS: All veggie scraps can be used. Google a quick video on the items you have at hand (think carrot tops, garlic cloves and ginger). Slips/cuttings of herbs can be grown in a glass of water on a sunny windowsill. In-season produce will always taste better and will be more likely to be produced locally. Now is the perfect time to plant (or re-grow) carrots, leeks, spinach, beans, peas, radish, beetroot, onions, garlic, cabbage, parsnip, thyme, origanum, rosemary etc.

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

HAUTE READS

WHEN THE NEWS HIT ABOUT LOCKDOWN IN SOUTH AFRICA, CHEF JASON WHITEHEAD WAS QUICK TO ACCELERATE HIS INNOVATIVE SKILLS AND PRODUCE A TASTY RECIPE E-BOOK FOR FOODLOVERS AND FANS.

MY LOCKDOWN COOKBOOK

From simple to fancy, day one to day 26, you will find local dishes like bobotie and pickled fish, to all-timefavourite Sunday roasts, sauces, curries and tempting desserts. Doing good and helping others is part of Jason’s plan, a percentage of every purchase goes to Streetscapes, an NPO close to his heart, that offers street people a second chance to re-build their lives.

lockdown My

cookbook 56

CHEF JASON WHITEHEAD

A diary of sorts, with recipes & short stories from a chef in quarantine

“

LIAM TOMLIN

”

Great easy recipes for a great cause!

To whet your appetite, here are two recipes from his book.

Purchase his book at R99, of which 50% goes to Streetscapes.

LEMON VERBENA CHEESECAKE WITH STRAWBERRY CRUST

CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE

INGREDIENTS Crust 140g strawberry wafer sticks 80g butter, melted 1T flour 1T castor sugar

METHOD 1 Preheat oven to 165°C. 2 Pop the strawberry wafer sticks into a food processor and blitz until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs. 3 Add sugar and flour and blitz again. Melt the butter and add to the strawberry wafer mixture and blitz once more. 4 Spray a smallish cake tin (around 23cm) with Spray and Cook. Line the tin with wax proof paper, shiny side facing inwards. Press the crust mixture into the bottom of the tin, until it is evenly flat and fairly smooth, then set aside. 5 In a small

Cheesecake filling 300g full-fat cream cheese / mascarpone 80g castor sugar 1 whole egg + 1 egg yolk 1 squirt vanilla extract 1T flour 1T lemon juice 100ml cream small handful lemon verbena leaves

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

Carrot purée 3 large carrots, peeled and chopped ½C bourbon + ¼C water ½t cumin seeds 2T butter ¼C cream

saucepan, add the lemon verbena leaves and cream. Bring to a simmer and allow the lemon verbena leaves to infuse into the cream, no longer than about a minute. Using a stick blender, blend the verbena cream mixture, then pass through a sieve, pressing down on the verbena leaves to extract as much flavour as possible. Allow to cool slightly. 6 Place the cream cheese and castor sugar into a mixing bowl and using a hand mixer (you could use a whisk if you have the energy), whisk until smooth. Add in the egg yolk and whisk until well combined, then add the whole egg and continue whisking. Now add the vanilla, flour and lemon juice and whisk to combine, making sure the flour in well incorporated and there are no lumps. 7 Tap the bowl with the cheesecake mixture in it on the counter a couple of times to get rid of as many air bubbles as possible. 8 Pour into the cake tin and place into the oven for 50 minutes. Once done, turn the oven off and leave the cheesecake in the oven for another hour (this helps prevent cracks on the top).

Goat’s cheese frosting 100g soft goat’s cheese 100g cream cheese 100g full-fat yoghurt 50g icing sugar Carrot ‘cake’ ½C flour ½C butter, softened 1 egg yolk 1 small purple carrot, finely grated ¼C carrot caramel pinch of salt Maldon salt to sprinkle after baking

INGREDIENTS Carrot chips 2 baby carrots 1C sugar 1C water

METHOD Carrot chips 1 Peel the baby carrots with a potato peeler from top to tip 4 times on each side, discarding the first peel. In a saucepan add water and sugar and bring to a simmer. Once the sugar has dissolved, add the carrot strips and simmer for about 8 minutes. 2 Preheat the oven to 100°C. Remove the carrot strips from the sugar syrup, scraping as much of the syrup off as possible, and place them on a non-stick baking sheet, then pop them into the oven for about 45 minutes to dry out.

Carrot caramel remaining syrup from carrot chips 1 large carrot, grated 1 star anise

Carrot caramel 1 Using the same sugar syrup as you did for the chips, add the grated carrot and star anise.

TEXTURES OF CARROTS

HAUTE READS

piping bag, then pop into the fridge until needed.

2 Simmer until the syrup by half and slightly thickened (it will thicken further once it cools). Strain and discard the carrots.

Carrot ‘cake’ 1 Whisk everything together until smooth. 2 Place the mixture into nonstick cookie moulds and pop into a preheated oven (200°C) for 10 to 15 minutes (depends on the size of the moulds) until the tops begin to brown. 3 Remove from the oven, and while still hot, sprinkle with Maldon salt.

Carrot purée 1 Add all the ingredients to the pan, except 1 tablespoon of the butter and the cream. 2 Cook until tender and most of the liquid has evaporated. 3 Allow to cool slightly, then add pop everything into a blender, along with the last tablespoon of butter and the cream. Blend until smooth, then pass through a sieve.

PLATING Plate like in the picture or get creative and do your own thing. Tag Jason on social media (@chefjasonwhitehead) as he would love to see your creative touch on this dish.

Goat’s cheese frosting Simply whisk everything together and then place into a squeezy bottle or

TEXTURES OF CARROTS

RECIPES FROM CHEFS AT HOME

Recipes from

WEST COAST SEAFOOD CHOWDER By Harald Bresselschmidt of oneplated Aubergine

chefs at home 60

INGREDIENTS 30 medium-sized black mussels 12 white mussels ½ bottle of Chenin Blanc 20 whelks 4 crabs 50g butter 2 twigs dune spinach 100g sea lettuce 2 gloves garlic 3 shallots 30g ginger, cut in fine strips 1 stick lemongrass, halved lengthwise and roughly chopped to release flavour 5 lime leaves 2 star anise ½T fennel seeds 15 strands saffron 2 fresh baby fennel bulbs, halved 2 x 400ml cans coconut cream 20g fresh coriander for garnish 200g basmati rice

Photograph by Alain Proust

Chefs from restaurants featured in the 2020 JHP Gourmet Guide share their recipes made at home.

Foraged along the on the West Coast shoreline – use whatever you can find and you can add some hake, baby spinach and basil if need be.

METHOD 1 Ensure that the cooked mussels are free from sand. Cook the white and the black mussels by placing them in a hot casserole dish and then flashing them off with the Chenin Blanc. Close the lid and boil for a few minutes, then remove all the open mussels with cooking tongs, set the stock aside.

2 Add the whelks to the stock and let it simmer for 15 minutes. Pull the whelk meat out of the shells and remove the intestines. 3 Cut the crab in four pieces, remove the stomach. 4 Once the mussels, crab and whelks have been prepared, braise the rest of the ingredients (besides the coconut cream, rice and coriander) in a casserole dish with the butter until glazed. 5 Add the crab and sweat briefly before adding the saved mussel stock and the coconut cream. Bring to the boil and then remove the crab and all the non-edible spices. Reduce the stock to a chowder consistency and if necessary, bind with corn or rice flour. 6 Before serving, layer the seafood, sea lettuce and the dune spinach in the stock and bring to the boil. 7 Garnish with coriander and serve with basmati rice. SERVES 4

Photograph by Alain Proust

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

RECIPES FROM CHEFS AT HOME

METHOD

SMOKED CHILLI SAUCE By Michael Deg of one-plated Cavalli

1 Place your smoking chips in the bottom of a large pot. Place your chillies, onions and garlic into a colander that will fit over the large pot. 2 Completely cover the top and sides of the colander with tin foil so that no smoke can escape. 3 Place the pot on a medium heat, for roughly 10 minutes. Make sure that there is smoke coming from the chips. After 10 minutes of smoking, remove from the heat, but let the chillies remain covered and in the smoke. 4 In a separate pot, bring your sugar and vinegar to the boil. Once your sugar has dissolved, add your smoked chillies, onions and garlic. Add your tomato paste and water. Cook on a medium heat for 40 minutes giving it a stir every so often to make sure nothing is sticking to the bottom of the pot. 5 Let your mixture cool, then pop it in a blender, and blend until smooth. Enjoy!

This super-easy smoking recipe makes the most wonderfully versatile homemade chilli sauce. Perfect for using as a marinade, to spice up regular mayonnaise, or on its own as a fiery relish. You can even make a banging pasta dish by stirring through a few tablespoons of this hot-sweetsmoky-blend with your favourite tomato sauce. Get creative and enjoy! INGREDIENTS 500g mixed chillies (red/green/ jalapeno/habanero) 2 medium red onions, chopped 6 cloves garlic 1 handful smoking chips 50g brown sugar 100ml white wine vinegar 4T tomato paste 200ml water

MAKES 2 CUPS

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

RECIPES FROM CHEFS AT HOME

POTATO GNOCCHI WITH BRAISED BEEF SHIN By Nanda Cardoso of one-plated Chefs Warehouse & Canteen

For presentation 10g butter 2T extra-virgin olive oil 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 sprig thyme salt freshly-ground pepper 100g Parmesan, grated 20g crispy baby onions 20g chives, sliced

INGREDIENTS Potato gnocchi 900g potatoes 150g cake flour, sieved + extra for surfaces 60g Parmesan cheese, grated 2t fine salt 3 large free-range egg yolks 50ml extra-virgin olive oil

METHOD Potato gnocchi 1 Preheat the oven to 180Â°C. 2 Rinse the potatoes and spread them out evenly onto a tray. 3 Place the potatoes into the preheated oven and leave to roast for 45minutes to 1 hour, until the potatoes can be pierced with the back of a spoon with no resistance. 4 Once the potatoes are cooked remove them from the oven and split each potato in half, scoop the flesh out of the skins, discard the potato skins and pass the flesh through a fine drum sieve. 5 Once the potatoes are passed, weigh out 600g of the cooked potato and transfer to a large bowl. Cut the cake flour, Parmesan and salt into the potatoes with a large spoon. 6 Once the flour is cut into the potatoes, add the egg yolks and olive oil and mix through. 7 Turn the mixture out onto a floured surface and gently work into a smooth dough, be careful not to overwork the dough, it should still be warm. 8 Transfer the dough into a piping bag fitted with a nozzle and keep on a warm surface. 9 Pipe the dough into long strips on a floured surface, then cut the strips every 2cm. Gently pinch each

Braised beef shin 1.2kg beef shin, cut 4cm thick 2T extra-virgin olive oil salt freshly-ground pepper 1 large white onion, peeled and quartered 2 carrots, peeled and quartered 2 sticks celery, cut into 5cm lengths 4 cloves garlic, crushed 1C red wine 100ml port 1Â˝L chicken or beef stock 2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 bay leaves 1 sprig fresh rosemary Macedoine mirepoix vegetables 2 carrots, peeled 2 sticks celery 1 leek, cleaned 1T extra-virgin olive oil 1T butter salt freshly-ground pepper

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

block in the centre to form a little bow shape. 10 Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. 11 Once the water is boiling, gently drop the gnocchi into the water. Once the gnocchi floats to the surface set a timer for 1 ½ minutes, then remove from the boiling water and plunge them into a bath of ice water to stop the cooking process. 12 Drain the gnocchi from the water and toss through olive oil to prevent them from sticking. Braised beef shin 1 Preheat the oven to 150°C. 2 Heat up a large heavy-based saucepan and drizzle with the olive oil. 3 Season each piece of beef shin with salt and freshlyground pepper then place it into the pan and sear each piece of shin on all sides before removing from the pan. 4 Once all the shin has been caramelised, place the onions, carrots, celery and garlic into the pan and caramelise the vegetables. 5 Once an even brown colour is achieved on the vegetables, deglaze the pan with the red wine and port, leave to reduce by half. 6 Transfer the beef shin, wine reduction and vegetables into a deep oven dish. Pour the chicken stock into the dish, add the thyme, bay leaves and rosemary. Seal the tray with tin foil and

RECIPES FROM CHEFS AT HOME

place into the oven for 3 hours. 7 After 3 hours, remove the tray from the oven and check if the beef is cooked and tender, pulling away from the bone. It may need to go longer. 8 Once the beef is cooked, remove it from the braising liquid and pick it off the bone in large chunks. 9 Strain the braising liquid into a saucepot, discard the remaining vegetables and reduce the liquid by half. Once the liquid is reduced by half add the picked beef shin into the sauce and adjust the seasoning with salt and freshly-ground pepper. Macedoine mirepoix vegetables 1 Prepare the mirepoix vegetables by cutting the carrots, leeks and celery into macedoine cubes (roughly 1cm x1cm). 2 Heat up a heavy-based pan and drizzle with olive oil. Melt the butter into the olive oil before adding the cubed vegetables. 3 Sauté the vegetables over a medium heat until the vegetables are cooked and firm to the bite, season with salt and freshly-ground pepper. 4 Transfer the macedoine mirepoix into the braised beef shin mixture and mix through. For the presentation 1 Heat up a non-stick frying pan, drizzle with olive oil. 2 Gently place the gnocchi into the frying pan and caramelise each side until golden brown. Whilst panfrying the gnocchi, drop the butter, garlic and thyme into the pan. Season with salt and freshly-ground pepper. 3 Remove the gnocchi from the pan and place into a serving dish, scoop the beef shin mixture over the gnocchi and garnish with grated Parmesan, crispy fried onions and chives before serving. SERVES 4

ORANGE AND CAMPARI CAKE

ORANGE AND CAMPARI CAKE By David Higgs of one-plated Marble

butter and allow it to cool before adding it to the egg and yogurt mixture. 6 Mix the flour and the orange zest together and fold into the liquid mixture. 7 Pour into the greased pan and bake at 170˚C for 45 minutes, checking regularly.

INGREDIENTS Cake 8 oranges, zest from four and juice from all eight 350g Greek yogurt 4 eggs 300g sugar 250g butter 350g semolina flour 100g ground almonds

Syrup 1 Cook all the ingredients together in a pan until melted and they reach a jam consistency. 2 Pour over the cake as it comes out of the oven. SERVES 12

Syrup 100ml Campari 300g sugar 8 oranges, juiced

TRADITIONAL BOUEF BOURGUIGNON By Darren Badenhorst of one-plated Le coin Français

METHOD Cake 1 Grease and line a spring-form pan. 2 Zest four oranges. 3 Whisk eggs until pale and thick. Add the sugar to the egg mixture. 4 In an electric mixer, on medium speed, add the yogurt. 5 Melt

INGREDIENTS 250g thick-cut smoky bacon, cubed 3½T extra-virgin olive oil 1.25kg beef cheek, trimmed and cut into equal (size) quarters 2 large carrots, sliced

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

the stove, then cover and simmer in the lower part of the oven for 3 to 4 hours, or until the meat is easily pierced. 6 In the last hour of cooking, bring 50g butter and 2 teaspoons oil to a medium heat in a sauté pan. Add the pearl onions and bay leaves and toss around in the fat until they’ve browned, around 10 minutes. Then stir in ½ cup beef stock, a small pinch of salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the onions for about 40 minutes, until the liquid has evaporated, and the onions are tender. 7 Remove the onions and set aside. Discard the bay leaves and wipe out the skillet. Add the remaining butter and oil and bring to a medium heat. Add the mushrooms and thyme and cook for about 5 minutes, shaking the pan to coat with the butter and thyme. 8 Place a colander over a large pot. Drain the beef stew through the colander and into the pot. Place the pot with the sauce over a medium heat and simmer for about 5 minutes, skimming any fat on top then fold chopped parsley through it. Pour the beef and vegetables back into the Dutch oven. Add the pearl onions and mushrooms to the pot. Pour the sauce over the beef mix and simmer for an additional 3 to 5 minutes to combine till desired consistency and seasoning.

1 large white onion, finely diced 1 pinch coarse salt and freshly-ground pepper 2T all-purpose flour 2T tomato paste 3 cloves garlic, smashed 3C red wine 3C beef stock 1 herb bouquet (4 sprigs parsley, 4 sprigs thyme, 2 sprigs rosemary) 100g butter 2 bay leaves 12-18 small pearl onions 500g fresh button mushrooms, quartered 2t picked thyme 50g finely chopped parsley METHOD 1 Preheat oven to 160°C. In a large Dutch oven, sauté the bacon in 1 tablespoon of oil for about 3 minutes, until it starts to lightly brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. 2 Dry the beef with paper towel for better browning. In batches, sear the beef well on all sides in the Dutch oven. Set aside with the bacon. 3 Back in the pot, add the sliced carrots and onions; sauté in fat until browned, about 3 minutes. If there’s any excess fat, drain it now. 4 Add the bacon and beef back to the pot. Season with ½ teaspoon coarse salt and ¼ teaspoon ground pepper. Toss. Sprinkle with flour and toss once more. 5 To the pot, add the tomato paste and garlic and cook off for 2 minutes, then add the wine, deglaze the cooking liquid well then add stock and the herb bouquet. The liquid should barely cover the meat and vegetables. Bring to a light simmer on

RECIPES FROM CHEFS AT HOME

METHOD 1 Season the seabass with salt and pepper, and splash it with saké. 2 Arrange in a heatproof dish, and spread the black bean paste on top. 3 Cover with cling film and steam over heat for about 8 to 10 minutes. 4 Remove it and top the fish with ginger and chives. 5 Heat the new-style oil in a small pan until smoking hot, then pour onto the fish. 6 Remove the fish and arrange on a plate. 7 Finish it off by pouring the leftover juice on top of the fish.

CHILEAN SEABASS WITH NEWSTYLE BLACK BEAN SAUCE By Harold Hurtada of two-plated Nobu INGREDIENTS 200g Chilean seabass sea salt black pepper saké 1½T black bean paste (fermented bean paste preserved with wheat flour, salt and yeast) 10g ginger, sliced into long,fine julienne strips 15g chives, cut 5cm long 40ml new-style oil (a mix of sesame oil and olive oil)

CHEF’S NOTE: You can place vegetables alongside the fish while it is steaming. SERVES 2

CHILEAN SEABASS WITH NEW-STYLE BLACK BEAN SAUCE

SERVING SUGGESTIONS Best served with smooth mashed potatoes, lightly-toasted French baguette or rice. SERVES 6

GOURMET GUIDE/WINTER 2020

RECIPES FROM CHEFS AT HOME

Pancetta 1 Cut the pancetta into matchstick sized lardons and fry in the olive oil until crispy. 2 Drain on some kitchen paper and set aside.

in a food processor until fine. 3 In a mixer with the dough hook, mix the flour mixture with the egg whites and water until a dough is formed. 4 Wash the celeriac and dry them off. Do not peel. 5 Roll out the dough until 5mm in thickness. Cut into big enough pieces and wrap around the entire celeriac. 6 Bake for 1 hour. 7 Remove from oven and cool slightly. 8 Break open the dough and remove the celeriac. Discard the baked dough. 9 Peel the celeriac, then rinse and dry with paper towel. 10 Cut the celeriac into quarters and keep warm.

Beurre noisette 1 Heat the butter in a saucepan until it starts to separate and turn golden brown. 2 Gently skim off the foam from the top of the butter and discard. 3 Chop the hazelnuts finely and add to the clarified butter. Keep warm. Linefish 1 Season the linefish with salt and pepper and fry in olive oil skin side down until skin is crispy. 2 Turn over gently and cook until done.

Celeriac purée 1 Wash, peel and chop the celeriac into large pieces. 2 Cook in the milk in a pot until soft. 3 Blend until smooth and season.

PAN-ROASTED LINEFISH WITH FENNEL, CELERIAC AND BEURRE NOISETTE By Carolize Coetzee of Tokara, Haute Promise Award winner

Celeriac purée 2 medium-sized whole celeriac 300ml milk salt and pepper

INGREDIENTS Salt-baked celeriac 800g coarse salt 500g cake flour 120g egg whites 1C water 2 medium-sized whole celeriac

Fennel jus 2C fennel juice and braising liquid 50ml olive oil

Fennel bulbs 2 large fennel bulbs salt and pepper

Pancetta 100g thick-cut pancetta olive oil

Beurre noisette 250g unsalted butter 50g toasted hazelnuts Linefish 4 x 180g linefish fillets olive oil salt and pepper Garnish Fennel tops METHOD Salt-baked celeriac 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. 2 Blend the salt and flour together

PLATING 1 Place two tablespoons of celeriac purée in the centre of the plate and make a small indentation in the middle with the back of a spoon. Carefully fill the indentation with the fennel jus. 2 On either side of the purée arrange the fennel and salt-baked celeriac. 3 Place the fish skin-side up on top of the celeriac purée and fennel jus. Spoon some beurre noisette over the fish and garnish with the crispy pancetta and reserved fennel tops. 4 Serve immediately.

Fennel bulbs 1 Wash the fennel bulbs, cut the tops off and quarter them. Save some of the finer fennel tops for garnish. 2 Juice the remaining tops and any offcuts in a blender with a little water. 3 Vacuum seal the fennel bulbs with the juice and cook for 45 minutes at 85°C. If you are unable to cook sous vide, then you can place the fennel bulbs with the juice in an oven tray and cover with foil. Braise for 30 minutes in the oven at 180°C. 4 Remove from the oven and set the braising liquid aside.

SERVES 4

Fennel jus 1 Blend the braising liquid and olive oil with a stick blender until emulsified. 2 Keep warm.

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