Critical Journal V isual
communication
natasha rosic
Chapter one
S ize ? I s the chosen retailer for this project , they ’ ve been trading since 2000 under the JD group , ( jdplc , 2018). S ize ? A re famous for supplying such as
quality
products
N ike , N orth F ace
from
and
big
brands
A didas . T heir
stock comprises of limited edition and exclusive trainers ,
apparel ,
and
accessories .
T hey ’ ve
been on the news before for their consumers
are that desperate to get the latest trend , they ’ ll queue outside their stores in the early hours to get their hands on it ,
(S ize ?, 2018)..
customers queuing outside size stores
X S ize ?
are
producing
collaborating in will
S ize ? be
with
S tores
launched
a
new
capsule
C arhartt
and for
online .
to
collection be
T he
A utumn / winter
sold range
2020.
S ize ?
is famous for stocking popular streetwear
brands and limited edition pieces and collaborations ,
(S ize ?, 2018). H owever ,
they haven ’ t got a huge
brand awareness for their own products , on their
website they only have a few pairs of socks and basic
T- shirts . T o expand on their brand authenticity
and
following
the
streetwear
produce
an
they
will
brand ,
A utumn /
be
collaborating
C arhartt to W inter 2020
design
“T he auThenTic sneaker and apparel sTore since 2000. s Tocking rare and exclusive fooTwear alongside everyday classics .”
L ong
since
Lasting quaLity appareL thats ’ s been around
1889. a
popuLar brand in the skateboarding
commmunity for both women and men .
page one of my mood board ’ s and presentation for jd
and
collection .
the products available under size ? brand
X
with
C arhartt
A merican brand founded in 1889, known for its durable , quality and stylish apparel made in the U.S.A. I nitially C arhartt began as a working men ’ s clothing company but the 90’ s was is an
when the relationship and support of independent street art and music scene blossom . with
like - minded
projects
such
B y collaborating as V ans , S tussy
M ahogani M usic C arhartt have secured connection with the scene , (M organ , n . d ). and
their
T he A/W 2020
collaboration will be targeted at
S ize ?’ s typical consumer ; men and women , aged 18-35, hungry for limited edition , quality garments . T o appeal to C arhartt consumers an audience like
the designs will also been marketed to appeal to the
skating streetwear community .
To
create
collection
S ize ?
authenticity with
for
C arhartt
S ize ?
will
be
this
capsule
exclusive
to
stores and will be limited edition so once it ’ s
gone its gone , creating a sense of urgency in the consumer ’ s head that they need to get it
ASAP. T he
logo that will be featured on the collection is a combination of the two brands logo ’ s
who the collaboration will be between .
so it ’ s clear
T he
collection is going to comprise of ;
a hoodie , sweatshirt ,
T- shirt , jeans , hat , A trend that D utch trend watcher , L idewij E delkoort predicts for A/W 2020 is that instead of bag , shoes and denim jacket .
there
being
bright deep and
no
transitional
colourful
dark
colours
designers
gradually
clothes in
should
moving
(T erra , 2018). S o
into
in
point
from
summer
winter ,
retailers
transition darker
to
slowly
shades ,
instead of following
tradition this collection will be colourful using an assortment of deep and bright colours .
A
trend that ’ s taking centre stage in the future
of
fashion
is
sustainability
using sustainable materials ,
and
the
shift
to
(B eeck , 2018). B io sustainable dyes will be used for this collection , these dyes are made by using extracts from plants ,
dried
bodies
of
insects
and
minerals
instead of the man - made way of using chemicals and creating pollution ,
To
keep
C arhartts
(S adannavar , 2018).
passion to deliver quality
and long lasting garments , durable materials will
be used such as cotton duck , which they already use in their garments to make their products able to withstand tough conditions ,
(G empler ’ s , n . d ). I nstead of using standard cotton , the collection will be constructed from recycled cottons , polyester and nylon so it keeps on trend to be
A nother
trend
that ’ s
been
seen
sustainable .
to
grow
in
popularity is non - binary collections , it ’ s common
for girls to be seen wearing their boyfriends ’ jackets for and guys to wear girls ’ skinny jeans but
now
designers
are
releasing
collections
that are completely non - binary and are marketed for both male and females ,
(M calpine , 2018). done something like this , a lot of is the same for men and women .
C arhartt
has
S ize ?
C arhartts
their apparel and
collaboration will be taking
this trend on board and making their collection
available for all sexes .
B oth S ize ? main
form
and of
C arhartt
use social media as their
advertisement .
S ize ?
has
928,000 755,000,
I nstagram followers and C arhartt has (I nstagram , 2019). N either of the brands use
heavily
commercialised advertisement they are very casual
and laid back with their marketing of collections .
S ocial
the
media will be used as the main platform for
marketing
of
collaborating with
the
collaboration .
C arhartt
S ize ?
are
S ize ?,
also
with the intention to
create an authentic brand association for
to reach a wider target audience to increase their
brand awareness , and to also get the personality of the brand across , will be featured
(Y ork , 2017). T he collaboration on both of their I nstagram .
C elebrity
endorsers will be used to help boost the
coverage of the collaboration , and
female
D omond
social
media
T yler
the
influencers
C reator B eatrice
B abybolika . T yler the creator is an 27- year - old . H e ’ s famous for his music - W olf G ang and street style , he now how has his own clothing label “G olf W ang ”, (F lynn , 2018). H e also skateboards which fits into our target market perfectly . H is success has left him with an immense social media following , 6.6 million I nstagram followers . W ith T yler being and
extremely creative
a face of the collaboration and advertising it on his
I nstagram
35
males .
page the collaboration will reach all
his followers and fans , who are typically aged
18C arhartt brand image perfectly and most importantly he isn ’ t affiliated with any other brands so there won ’ t be any confusion about which brand he is representing .
T he
collaboration
is
going
to
be
gender
fluid ,
designed for both men and women , so to reach a
wider
and
audience
B abybolika
B eatrice
influencers
will be faces
B eatrice D omond of the collection .
is a well - known social media influencer
who skateboards .
B eatrice
N ew Y ork and has a huge following on social media . H uge skating brands such as ; V ans , S upreme N ew Y ork and S pitfire sponsor her , (M eronek , n . d ). H er image fits S ize ?’ s and C arhartt ’ s brand image perfectly is
24,
from
and she will help the collaboration reach out to both male and female skateboarders .
A nni B olika
24- year - old streetwear social media influencer , from C ologne . O ther than her huge following on I nstagram A nni has a blog called “ lifeisapigsty ” where she blogs about her latest outfits , (B olika , n . d ). A nni would be beneficial to is
the collaboration because she will be able to style the collection to appeal to a
“ girlier ”
audience and
show how the collection can be styled in a feminine way .
T yler
will match the
S ize ?
and
I nstagram is the main platform for the collaboration between S ize ? and C arhartt because its visual . I nstagram has more than 700 million users that continues to grow and most people use I nstagram daily . A dvertisement on I nstagram is less intrusive and because the target audience for the collaboration is them .
It’s
18-35
it ’ s less likely to irritate
S hopify to ads and sell products instantly , which makes I nstagram the best social media platform to advertise on (K atai , n . d ). T he images posted will keep in theme with both brand images of being causal and natural . A ll the easy to add
images posted will be on location and look natural so the consumer can imagine the collection in their
wardrobes and wearing them in their day to day activities .
Chapter two
The North Face is a brand under the Millets group known for designing and manufacturing durable products suitable for all weather types such as; waterproof coats, tents and bags, and have recently shown their interest in using more sustainable materials to make their products, (TheNorthFace, 2018). Millets has a very dated looking website and isn’t considered a young person’s brand. However, The North Face has grown in popularity and become “cool” brand, (Gordon, 2016). A collaboration with a festival will bring a younger target audience to the Millets group. Glastonbury Festival, the largest greenfield festival in the world, (Glastonbury, 2018), which is why it’s the chosen festival to collaborate with. The target audience will be 18-50 so it appeals to all of Glastonbury and The North Faces audience.
The North Face and Glastonbury are both very proud of their eco consciousness and have sections on their website dedicated to creating more awareness. The North face has a recycling reward in place called “The Loop�, where their consumers can take their old apparel and footwear into their stores and The North Face will recycle them and in return they offer a reward, (TheNorthFace, n.d).
Glastonbury promotes on their website that they’re a “Green festival” and has a section that gives their festival goers a chance to “opens their eyes” to all the damage and waste that is left when the festival is over, (Eavis, n.d). It has been said that they will also be banning plastic bottles for the 2019 festival, (Snapes, 2018).
Plastic Poncho’s are an essential for many festival goers and have a short life span. Often made from polyethylene, they are flimsy and very easily torn then ultimately end up in the bin. On estimate they take hundreds of years to degrade, (PecoPoncho, n.d). There are lots of companies such as; Peco Poncho, Bold Cup and Can O Water already trying to tackle the disposable waste. Offering consumers biodegradable replacements for their beloved plastic products. This collaboration aims to remove the idea of disposable and replace it with reusable, encouraging consumers to invest in products to last them years.
The collaboration is intended to promote a limited-edition collection of sustainable waterproof coats and t-shirts to spread the word about how wasteful the festival industry is. If everyone who attends a festival in summer 2019, brought just one plastic cup that single cup will take 450 years to decompose, (Leblanc, 2018).
Both brands are conscious of the waste and rising landfills so the collaboration between the two of them is going to be “eye opening� and stylish. Glastonbury is famous for its rainy spells and being extremely muddy, and headlines hit spread with pictures of festival goers drenched and caked in mud, (Ruck, 2016). The North Face is a huge brand famous for its weather appropriate, durable gear. Waterproof jackets fall under that umbrella and will be the product that will be the centre of the collaboration. The intention is so pursude consumers to replace their beloved plastic disposable ponchos, and invest in a quality, durable waterproof jacket that will last them years.
Glastonbury and The North Face both appeal to a wide variety of consumers; old and young, male and female, gay and straight and that’s the beauty of this collaboration, it will be for everyone. Taking influence from the 90’s rave scene and modern day festival fashion the collection is going to consist of 3 colourful waterproof jackets with designs to appeal to all age groups and genders. The North Faces price range is high for their typical waterproof jackets, so the collection will include a lightweight jacket at a lower price range so it’s still available for everyone.
The rave scene was a place you could dress however you wanted and nobody thought anything of it, this was an era where fashion mistakes were acceptable, (Cerni, 2013). The top 90’s rave trends consisted of; oversized hats, dungarees, baggy trousers, cropped tops, neon colours, sportswear, bright coloured hair and sunglasses, (Constantino, 2017). Its obvious todays festival scene has taken trends from the 90’s rave scene and given them a modern twist. Festival fashion isn’t as forgiving in terms of fashion mistakes, people dress with the intention to express themselves through their clothing but also to look good, (Panych, 2015).
Brands such as; Easy Tiger, Jaded London, The Gyspy Shrine and Love Specs offer an array of colourful outfits and accessories for festival goers to dress up in. The collaboration will take inspiration from both 90’s rave scene and festival fashion trends.
The Colour palette is made up of the colours used in Glastonbury festivals logo. This is to ensure its clear that The North Face are doing a limited edition collection with Glastonbury.
The North Face have collection points for unwanted textiles in their stores across the country, this is part of their “The Loop� programme, (TheNorthFace, n.d) These materials will be used to construct the jackets for the collection. Materials such as; polyester, Nylon, Cotton, Gore-Tex. Bio sustainable dyes will be used instead of man made dyes made up of chemicals, these dyes are made by extracts from plants, dried insects bodies and minerals, (Sadannavar, 2018).
The logo is clear and bold so it’s obvious who the collaboration is between. Made up of The North Faces logo in black and Glastonbury above it, using the Glastonbury festival colour palette, Green, Blue, Red, Pink, Yellow and black. The Logo will be featured on all the jackets, t-shirts and tote bags in the collection, similarly to how The North Face features its logo on their own garments – a small logo to one side of the chest then a larger print on the back. It will be featured clearly on the garments because logo branding is back in trends and it also markets the products whilst consumers are wearing it, (Greene, 2014).
Festivals are famous for the life long memories made, amazing artist and overall fabulous experience but what isn’t shared as openly is the mass of mess and waste left behind when the festival goers leave. Thousands of tents, sleeping bags, and chairs are left behind to go in the bin, (Ward, 2018). Glastonbury promotes itself as a “green” festival and prides itself on being “eye opening” and teaching people about the different ways to recycle, reuse and save our resources, (Glastonbury, 2019).
Stella McCartney is a fashion designer who’s made it her responsibility to use her platform to make consumers aware of the impact humans are having on the environment and where our waste goes. Stella’s 2017 campaign was showcased her latest collection being modelled on a landfill, showing the harsh contrast between where our old things inevitably end up, (Harper’s Bazaar, 2017). Another brand doing its bit to help spread awareness and make sustainable clothing is Ksenia Schnaide, a fashion label making clothing out of recycled denim, (Teather, 2018). Adidas is another brand, they recently teamed up with Parley and sold 1 million pairs of shoes made from recycled plastic found in the oceans, (Teather, 2018).
Parley & Adidas
Inspiration from McCartney, Schnaide and Adidas’s campaigns will be used to market the collection, it will be both informative and fashionable. McCartney used shocking images to get her audience’s attention and a similar approach will be used for this collaboration. Images of the aftermath waste of Glastonbury festival 2017 will be used in the advertisement campaign so it can keep in theme with Glastonbury’s “eye opening” message. Like McCartneys and Adidas campaigns the models wearing the jackets will be shot with a backdrop of the festivals aftermath “landfill” like backdrop.
The North Face has previously had a pop up store at Mountain Festival 2018, and it was the most “iconicâ€? pop up to date. It featured a tent with The North Face logo on, and had their merchandise available to buy, (TheNorthFace, 2018). The North Faces price point is on average ÂŁ150 for a waterproof jacket, which is a lot more expensive than a disposable plastic poncho. To make the collection available for all price ranges a light weight poncho will be included in the collection, and for those who already have their waterproof jackets there will be tote bags and t-shirts available to buy, made from recycled materials with the featuring the logo.
At Glastonbury Festival 2019, there will be a pop up store. It will be similar to the pop up tent The North Face did at Mountain Festival except it will feature the collaborating logo. The first 10 jackets will be given away for free, but to get everyone talking about the collaboration and to be in for the chance of winning a free jacket, festival goers will have to hunt the pop up down. There will be clues given out via social media pages and posters dotted around the festival.
This give away will be announced on The North Face’s, Glastonbury festivals and the celebrity endorsers social media pages and regular updates of how many of the 10 free jackets have been claimed and how many remain. Photos of the winners will be posted as and when they claim them. The idea is to create a buzz around the collaboration and exclusivity. Glastonbury releases the line-up for the festival through posters in windows and via their Instagram and Twitter pages, which always causes a stir on the internet and keeps people guessing about what’s to come, (Skynews, 2018). Throughout the build-up to the festival date, similar posters will be posted on social media, paired with the beauty of word of mouth is going to be a main marketing platform for the collaboration.
Instagram will be the focal platform because its visual and has 700 million users. It will also be easy to attach “Shopify” which will make it quick and easy for people to buy if they like what they see, (Katai, 2018). Twitter is also a great marketing tool; its cost effective because its free to use and reaches a lot of people, (Joseph, n.d).
Celebrity endorsers will be used to represent the collection and to reach out to all the target audience. The idea is to get everyone talking about this collaboration. The North Face was hugely popular by 90’s rappers and today by grime mc’s, (Dazed, 2016). Stormzy is a grime artist and is one of the headliners at Glastonbury 2019, he’s got a huge 1.9 million Instagram followers, he will be one of the chosen celebrity endorsers for this campaign. Kylie Minogue is another headliner at Glastonbury Festival 2019 and has an entirely different audience to Stormzy, she has 1.8 million Instagram followers, (Instagram, n.d). Kylie will appeal to a glamourous female audience, which will be a new audience for The North Face.
Chapter three For my own brief, I intend to shoot and style images for an editorial high end fashion shoot. I began by researching my favourite fashion bloggers, stylist and designers in search of inspiration. I have followed Mancunian fashion blogger Megan Ellaby on social media for a few years and have always loved her sense of style, she’s famous for clashing and layering bold, bright patterns and prints. Megan has 191,000 Instagram followers and has her own blog which has led her to huge successes including launching her own clothing label, “Saturday”, which is another platform for Megan to promote her iconic bright bold style, (Megan, n.d). Megan’s style and images look retro and inspired by the 1960’s and 1970’s which is what I love most about her.
A creative fashion stylist who experiments with colours, textures and patters is, Helen McGlukin. Originally from Sheffield Helen is a freelance fashion stylist and artistic director who has worked with many high-street brands such as; Asos, Nasty Gal and Topshop, (Linkedin, n.d). Helen and spoke at university about past projects and shoots she’s worked on, commercial and editorial. Helen explained when shooting for commercial purposes shoots have less creative freedom and her favourite shoots are editorial which is why I have opted to shoot and style an editorial shoot. Helen shoots on film and digital, dependent on the project, (McGlukin, 2018). I’d like to use film for my images because I think it adds character to the imaegs. What I love about Helen is her images could tell a million different stories, some are taken in simple everyday situations such as; eating tea at a table or just simply standing outside on the street. This is something I’d like to use in my own editorial shoot.
Juno Calypso is London based artist who works with photography, film and does installations too. Famous for being the photographer who went on a “one woman honeymoon” in Pennsylvania, to find the perfect stage for her series of self-portrait photographs titled “The Honeymoon”, (Dazed, 2015). Humour and irony are also important aspects for Calypso’s images, (Spicer, 2017). As well as working on her own projects Calypso has also worked with huge fashion brands such as; Burberry, where she directed a short Christmas advert titled “close your eyes and think of Christmas” staring Naomi Campbell and her mum, (Baines, 2018). Calypso’s images tell a story and this is something I’d like to use in my own series of images.
Celine is a French fashion house, famous for their no-frills silhouettes, contrasting textures, original fabrics and neutral colour palettes. Their brand ethos is to break away from fast fashion disposable attitudes and design timeless pieces for their consumers to keep for decades, (Teller, 2015). Just like Celine, I’d my images to promote timeless fashion and to steer clear of commercial fast fashion.
Jeurgen Teller is German photographer, who is successful in both the commercial and fine art photography world and is iconic for the raw emotion his work imposes on viewers, (Maupin, n.d). Teller doesn’t differentiate between his commercial and artistic work. He photographed Diaria Werbowy for one of Celine’s campaigns. The idea behind the campaign was to show that luxury can be illustrated in a more practical way, (Teller, 2017). I’d like to experiment taking images from different angles, and I’m also going to leave my images untouched to give a raw emotional experience when looking at them.
The 1960’s was an era where the stories of almost every social aspect of the decade was reflected in fashion, (Rothman, 2017). Art and fashion were used as platforms for activism and story-telling. Traditions were challenged, and attitudes were changed. The 1960’s was the first-time fashion was aimed at a young audience allowing people to express themselves through fashion. Music, art and photographers heavily influenced the fashion scene, (Dudbridge, n.d). The ideas of “prim and proper” were tested and social movements and activists saw a drastic change in fashion. The civil rights movement saw a rise in black models and bright African inspired patterns. The women’s rights movement saw the birth of the mini skirt and clothing designed for women who worked, (Rothman, 2017). Even the first man landing on the moon influenced a fashion trend, clothing made from materials like metals and plastics made with metallic and neon colours, (Michelle, n.d) Andy Warhol is a famous artist, most famous for being part of the Pop Art movement in the 1960’s, just like Ellaby, McGlukin, Calypso, Celine and Teller he uses everyday objects and makes art with them. His most famous artwork features common household objects such as; Coca-Cola cans, Chanel perfume bottles and Campbell’s soup, (Artsy.net, n.d). This concept works with my idea to style and create raw images that tell a story.
This concept from the 1960’s is repeating itself, fashion is being used again as a platform for activism and social movements. Examples of this include The Deep End Club, a fashion brand where artists and activists have joined together to use this platform to promote the worlds injustices. There slogan is; “Change starts with community!”, (Stories, n.d). Other example of social movements influencing retailers is obesity, stores are now becoming more inclusive of all body types and are now making their collections available for all sizes by releasing larger sizes for plus size women, (Meyersohn, 2018). A larger proportion of models from ethnic descent are being used in ad campaigns, and on the catwalk and continues to grow, (Wilson, 2014). Therefore, I’m taking inspiration from social movements and influences from today’s society and using portraying aspects through my images.
In the most recent years the fashion industry has begun celebrating peoples’ imperfections, scars, albinism, freckles and all. Models including Winnie Harlow, Lara Stone and Shaun Ross wouldn’t be where they are without theirs, (i-D Team, 2014). I believe that all the stylists, artists and photographers I’ve taken inspiration from use this theme throughout their work. Promoting imperfections aren’t that imperfect after all and they are beautiful. Which is why this will be the social movement I’m going to be telling the story of through my editorial images.
Statement brightly coloured eye shadows is a new trend that’s emerged, the beauty trend is encouraging people to get creative and push boundaries, (Maccorquodale, 2018). I will be using inspiration from this trend to create bright, bold statement eyes for my images.
I wanted my images to tell a story like Calypso’s, McGlukin and Tellers. I took inspiration from Ellabys style and combination of bright colours and patterns, I’d like to expand further on this in my final project and experiment more in a studio and on more locations. I used a film camera to take all my images, thinking it’d add textures and make the pictures feel more “raw”. It worked well but I did encounter a few issues, one of my films didn’t develop the whole film came back destroyed. Another issue I encountered was I was unable to see how the images looked until I had the film developed.
Chapter Four
For my final major project next semester, I’d like to expand on my editorial images and look further into printing my images for a publisher. PYLOT is a publisher that showcases artistic and fashion photography. All their content is shot on film and they don’t believe in editing their images to retouch or enhance any of their models’ skin or body shape. They believe this creates their “PYLOT aesthetic”, and creates images with energy (PYLOT, n.d). Each issue has a theme and they intend to break the mould and influence their consumers, (Barnett, 2016). PYLOT magazine would be the perfect publisher to showcase my S/S 2020 editorial images because all my images will be shot on film and I’d like to keep to the “PYLOT aesthetic” and my images will remain untouched and raw. , 2018). Calypso’s images tell a story and this is something I’d I’d also like to experiment like to use in my own with video, it’s a media I’ve never used before series of images. and I’d like to expand my skill set. Calypso’s Burberry advert inspired me to experiment with transforming my raw still images into a short film.
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Biography for chapter three and four
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