The Gentlewoman Zine: The Sustainable Issuu nº 19

l the l gentlewoman The Sustainable Issue n° 19, Autumn and Winter 2018

UK £6.50

Lily Cole

US $15.99

The Gentlewoman The Sustainable Issue n° 19, Autumn and Winter 2018

Lily Cole (pp. 10-13) was photographed by Carter Smith at her home in Torquay.

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the gentlewoman ISSUE N° 19 AUTUMN AND WINTER 2018

For the cover, Lily Cole was photographed by Carter Smith at her home in Torquay, wearing Viktor & Rolf. See pages 00-00.

THE GENTLEWOMAN 73-75 Kenton Street London WC1N 1NN United Kingdom + 44 20 8616 5433 office@thegentlewoman.com

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©2018, The Gentlewoman, the authors and the photographers ISSN 1899-2329 Flower Power

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The Burberry Reformation

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Lily Cole

10-13

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SS19 has been all about going au natural. From embracing hair types and minimalistic makeup styling, to the charming floral print, it is clear the fashion-universe is realigning, with more consideration for our environment and the natural beauty it amasses.

Photography by VLAMOS YANNIS, details are MARC JACOBS SS19.

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The flower motif has been central to the fashion industry for centuries, usually being associated with the universal symbol of femininity. This seems all the more relevant now, with the budding fourth wave feminist movements shooting up all over the globe. The origins of the print, however, can be found in Asia: in Japan’s traditional kimono fabrics and China’s detailed embroideries. Jump forward a few centuries, and florals had reached Europe, which is where they began to be considered a status symbol and were thus very expensive . Industrial and technological developments meant that floral fabric production grew exponentially and headed straight into our wardrobes.

This year’s fashion events have shown a more rebellious side of florals, as they flourish into something far more exciting than just delicate refinement. The designers have publicised, again and again, that SS19 is not merely about layering, but purposefully clashing bright and boisterous patterns, so that they can both compete for their day in the sun.

It is not surprising that we have seen a resurgence of the flower-print, thanks to luxury fashion brands opting for lavish and baroque-inspired collections, such as Rodarte’s spin on extravagant romanticism at New York Fashion Week. Florals featured heavily in the hair accessories – yes, we can now expect to be festival-ready all year round – frills, embellishments and Victorian lace. Rodarte’s looks particularly radiated femininity, with their masses of voluminous tulle, silk pussy bows, and soft-hued floral-prints that were contrasted with crimson red and flamboyant fuchsia trimmings. Something about the silhouettes were reminiscent of punk princess – a theme also noted by Dolce & Gabbana at Milan Fashion Week.

They pursued ‘more is more’ for SS19, with the confliction of metallic fabric and bright, elaborate floral motif.

Tiered, capacious gowns and puffball sleeves were the foundation of the regal show. Wreath-like jewellery was another way to wear the look, starring prevalently in the hair styling and accessories. At Marc Jacobs, flowers have not just been inspiring prints, but even the cursive forms and natural textures of the New York show. The net and satin ruffles and coils explored natural world, whilst the peach and flamingo pink ensembles were particularly evocative of an English rose garden. In Paris, floral embroidery dominated; the Alexander McQueen SS19 Collection put much emphasis on flower-power, with punchy primary coloured applique paralleled with gothic leathers and fastenings.

It can be said that this coming season is going to truly update the floral symbol; no longer do flowers represent female passivity, but instead, femininity as a commanding force of nature. We’ve seen key influential women donning the trend – think back to Rihanna’s cover shoot for Vogue, where she was ornamented by a floral headpiece which, too, took centre stage. The Duchess of Sussex who, since becoming a member of the royal family, has arisen as a key fashion figure, favours floral prints over standard block colours when performing public duties. For the Royal Variety Performance, she wore an elegant halter-neck top that comprised of a sequined floral motif. It’s clearly the right time to join the jungle with this trend – layer some clashing prints, cinched in at the waist with a large leather belt and accessorise with flower crowns. It’s all about the excess!

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THE BURBERRY REFORMATION

Even the name of Riccardo Tisci’s debut Burberry collection, ‘Kingdom’, echoes the growing desire for a holistic and inclusive approach to sustainability in the fashion industry. Today, luxury fashion houses including Burberry, are becoming aware of their influence and the need for transparency with their supply chains – or, in this case, their kingdoms.

It is time for a transformation; a theme that SS19 has been all about, beginning with London Fashion Week’s new ecological standards and the British Fashion Council’s banning of fur on the runway. Tisci responded swiftly, vowing to no longer utilise real animal fur in any of the brand’s products or incinerate unsold stock , as part of the Burberry revolution. Burberry design is no longer solely inspired by British Heritage, but by ‘Creating Tomorrow’s Heritage’ , reflecting the industry’s snowballing consciousness towards

to create a harmony of workwear ensembles for the modern woman, reminiscent of a watercolour chef-d’oeuvre. This functionality was established further by the sizeable leather bucket bags, sleek and simple hair styling and monochromatic makeup adorned by the models. Beige, a colour already made desirable by Burberry, has been given a millennial renewal by Tisci, with flowing box-pleat and puffball skirts, batwing shirts, ruffles, delicate fringing and metallic embellishments. Nevertheless, the runway’s opening look paid tribute to the fashion house’s roots: a fawn trench coat (inspired by Thomas Burberry’s first design in 1879 ), pulled in at the waist with a contrasting walnut-brown elasticated cinch belt. When paired with nude patent heels, the outfit radiated elegant professionalism.

As the collection evolved, the runway became a firework show of daring blacks, cherry reds and graphic prints.

Tisci truly achieved ‘kingly’-attributes in his SS19 Collection. He has managed to reform the Burberry image, whilst remaining true to the brand. It turns out Peter Pan-collared tweed coats and delicate ditsy florals can magically fall under the same kingdom as graphic, animal prints and lame fringing… who knew? This coming season, it is all about inclusivity, revealed

by Tisci down to every last detail – even the model casting was diverse and dynamic, including prevalent faces like Kendall Jenner, attracting an equally varied and sophisticated customer. The venue was electric with promise and brimming with possibility; with the artistic director’s fresh ethical values, a change is surely on the horizon. Transcending the bounds of the traditional, luxury-brand designer, in ‘Kingdom’, Burberry raises the bar for innovation and novelty in the fashion industry.

its environmental and ethical impacts.

The earthy neutrals that dominated Tisci’s SS19 Collection were perhaps used for this purpose: to clarify the ties between us and nature. The layering of French vanillas and dusky beiges were mirrored by the white-washed tiered venue, an old sorting office, framing the models as if each piece was a work of art. The panels of mirror and glass only aided this fairy-tale atmosphere. For a 162-year-old company , Tisci’s revolution could be likened to a Renaissance period. The accents of cornflower blue, royal navy and mint greens fused

The more refined silks, satins and cottons were replaced by audacious patent leathers, décolleté necklines fashioned from Chantilly lace, and sheer mesh materials. One look from the collection particularly reflected this punk revival – a patent, crimson trench was layered atop a black oversized hoodie, revealing a taut, ivory Chelsea collar beneath. The ensemble signalled, yet again, a shift and modernisation of the stiffened silhouettes of British Heritage into truly liberating design with a conscience.

It is fair to say that Riccardo

And fashion, once again, lives happily ever after.

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TEXT: NATALIE EVANS PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDERS CHRISTIAN MADSEN

Kingdom.

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THE GENTLEWOMAN THE SUSTAINABLE ISSUE N° 19 AUTUMN AND WINTER 2018

The Future of

Lily Cole 10

Fashion.

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longevity

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Lily has lived in her dreamy, countryside house since travelling the world as a model, turned actress, turned activist, made her realise there’s no place like home.

Photographer: CARTER SMITH

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LILY COLE

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See you in the future.

(See you in the next season.)