Aesthetics advice

HOW MUCH MUCH?

Non-surgical cosmetic (also known as aesthetic) procedures are increasingly accessible and in demand. Th ese procedures are aimed at enhancing or altering appearance, but when a client comes in requesting a procedure that’s clearly going too far – or obviously the result of other pressures and issues than just the wish for a cosmetic ‘tweak’ – how much of a responsibility do practitioners have to advise them?

What’s more, a recent Health and Social Care Select Committee report identifi ed a rise in body image dissatisfaction as the driver behind the new market.

A deeper issue

‘Unreasonable’ requests are driven partly by the bombardment of fi ltered images that many clients are now subjected to. ‘To some extent these pressures have always existed, but they have been magnifi ed with the rise of social media, as the lines between reality and fi lters have become increasingly blurred,’

Aesthetics professionals discuss their role in advising clients on procedures, especially given the increasing demand, accessibility and vulnerability of clients with body issues.

WORDS RADHIKA HOLMSTRÖM

says Dr Matthew Jarvie-Th omas IMPROVING STANDARDS of Th e Cosmetic Skin Clinic.

It becomes particularly The new section in the Health and Care Act 2022, which received Royal alarming when clients are asking Assent at the end of April, gives the government powers to introduce a for a procedure thinking it’s a licensing scheme for practitioners operating in England, and work is now solution – but their problem is, underway to decide what this will look like. The scheme will help to take in fact, psychological rather than physical. ‘I’ve had, say, an absolutely beautiful woman who wanted to feel better about herself, but it was obvious that further the NHBF recommendation that all premises off ering non-surgical aesthetics procedures should be licensed. The Health and Social Care Select Committ ee has said this process must be sped up to happen within a year. Elsewhere, Scotland has recently announced its intention to update its laws around non-surgical cosmetic procedures. what she needed was therapy,’ NHBF COMMENT: Caroline Larissey says: ‘The NHBF is pleased to see, on says skin repair expert Lorena the back of our writt en evidence, recommendations around specifi c Oberg. ‘Th e imperfections she premises standards with enforcement powers att ached and a qualifi cations wanted me to help her with and training framework as a central pillar to the future licensing regime. were not really there.’ ‘The proposed taskforce makes sense in bringing together the diff erent

Matthew agrees. ‘For many regulatory bodies and it’s essential that the hair and beauty sector is people, there are certain aspects of their appearance that have changed or have always bothered them that contribute to a lack of represented here. We have also consistently called for a central point of contact for advice and guidance for the public. ‘In line with the report, we are keen to push on, engage in the government’s consultation process and deliver bett er public safety.’ confi dence,’ he says. ‘For these clients, aesthetic procedures can be a boost to self-confi dence and can help overcome anxieties. However, it is clearly diff erent for a client with body dysmorphic disorder or other mental health issues driving their desire for a procedure.’

Dr Simon Ravichandran of Clinetix adds: ‘Body dysmorphic disorder is surprisingly common. It’s probably even higher in people who are asking for a procedure to help them “improve” their appearance, and repeated studies have shown that in 95% of cases it makes no diff erence.’ When to say no Th is, they all agree, is when a practitioner’s role is not to deliver, but to advise against a procedure.

‘It is hard to say no, NHBF COMMENT: Caroline Larissey, RESOURCES but it is our duty as professionals to NHBF director of quality and standards, says: ‘The growth of social media, new • Support on spott ing the signs of body dysmorphia (or body dysmorphic disorder): nhbf.co.uk/body-image always take into account the aspects that the client might not be aware of,’ says Dr Iman Nurlin of Ouronyx London. platforms, the promotion and the rise of social infl uencers has been fundamental to the increased client interest in face and body image. ‘Clearly, questions need to continue to be asked (and data collected) about • The full select committ ee ‘Th e client comes in why so many, oft en young, people feel report on the impact of with their the need to change their appearance.’ body image on mental expectations, and physical health: bit.ly/ HoC-committ ee-report dreams and wishes – some of which may be unrealistic or high risk – and they might need POPULAR PROCEDURES guidance and reliable advice.’ In a 2020 NHBF aesthetics Lorena Oberg adds: ‘I think survey, the most popular (less it’s important for practitioners invasive) aesthetic procedures to understand what side of the were microneedling and street we need to be on. If we chemical peels, mostly carried have a client who clearly has out in beauty salons. Dermal some degree of body dysmorphia, fi llers and botulinum toxins we need to immediately say: (Botox) were the most popular “We can’t touch you”.’ injectable procedures.