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TURNING THE TIDE

Fear of losing benefi ts and the overvaluation of higher education means uptake of apprenticeships is in the doldrums. But are we at a pivotal point in shaping their future?

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WORDS NATASHA RIGLER

Apprenticeships are traditionally the most popular route into the hairdressing industry. But the NHBF’s 2020 Industry Statistics, combined with the July’s State of the Industry Survey, shows the fragile state they are in.

Uptake was already down, but now the pandemic has forced 64% of 1750 respondents to cut back on supporting apprentices. In June, only 12% said they would hire an apprentice within the next three months.

We are in the middle of a skills shortage, and the gap looks set to widen even further. Taking the high road

Edward Hemmings, creative director and director of education at Alan D Hairdressing Education, noticed a shift in the late 1990s.

‘Th e Blair government decided that every kid would go to university,’ he explains. ‘Suddenly we saw kids who would naturally become hairdressers becoming distracted and doing something else.’

Higher education is still favoured over vocational learning. NHBF vice president Amanda LodgeStewart, director of Th e Link Training Academy, says: ‘Teachers and career advisers prefer to get children into full-time education after their GCSEs. It’s easier for them to manage and assess, and they get results.

‘Th e hair and beauty sector is hugely undervalued by careers advisers, teachers and sometimes parents. Th is is such a shame, as you need so many skills to be successful in this industry.’

Money worries

To be eligible for government apprenticeship incentives, salons and barbershops – frustratingly – cannot employ apprentices beforehand as ‘Saturday staff ’. An apprenticeship is also considered to be full-time employment at £4.30 an hour, and parents who receive benefi ts are no longer allowed to claim for that child.

Amanda says: ‘Th e way Universal Credit works can deter parents from encouraging their teenagers to go into apprenticeships because of the negative fi nancial impact.’

Edward, who gives career talks to children as young as 10, says: ‘An apprentice could earn more than their parents’ lost benefi t. But by the time travel and food costs are subtracted, there may not be enough to put into the family’s pot.

‘Some parents are terrifi ed they won’t be able to feed their other children. We need to fi nd out whether this is fact or fear. Th ere’s clearly an issue either way that must be addressed.’

Th e pandemic has wreaked havoc on apprenticeships. Salon closures and a drop in revenue meant owners have been forced to let many go. And for those apprentices clinging on, hours of in-salon training have been lost, and end-point assessments (EPAs) cancelled. Increased costs for second-year apprentices are also a major barrier – at present, an apprentice over the age of 19 who is in the second year of their apprenticeship must be paid the age-appropriate National Minimum Wage or National Living Wage, rather than the apprenticeship rate. Businesses are increasingly unable to aff ord apprentices and the jump in cost in the second year for older learners greatly infl uences the apprentices they take on, reducing opportunities for those wishing to reskill. Future-proofi ng the industry Th ankfully, the tide is turning. Th e Institute for Apprenticeships and Technical Education (IfATE), together with trailblazer steering USEFUL RESOURCES NHBF guide to taking on an apprentice:

nhbf.co.uk/taking-on-an-apprentice

NHBF education hub: nhbf.co.uk/

apprentices-and-t-levels

NHBF guide to recruiting: nhbf.co.uk/

recruit-the-right-salon-team

NHBF Industry Statistics: nhbf.co.uk/

industry-research

NHBF State of the Industry Survey

July 2021: nhbf.co.uk/nhbf-survey

THE WAY UNIVERSAL CREDIT WORKS CAN DETER PARENTS FROM ENCOURAGING THEIR TEENAGERS TO GO INTO APPRENTICESHIPS

GERRI DANGERFIELD KEANE ‘TALENT HAS BEEN SLIPPING THROUGH THE NET’

Gerri Dangerfi eld Keane, from Dangerfi eld & Keane, started his career as an apprentice when he was 14. Apprenticeships have evolved since then, but Gerri, now 60, hasn’t forgotten his roots.

He says: ‘You can mould your apprentice from the beginning and instil all your best core values and culture into them.

‘This is so valuable, as someone who has trained and qualifi ed elsewhere is unlikely to have the same standard, ethos and way of dealing with customers.’

Gerri has experienced a sharp decline in apprenticeship applications. Tellingly, from those he does receive, many are from university graduates.

‘They walk through my door with a degree because they’ve suddenly realised hairdressing is what they’ve always wanted to do,’ Gerri says. ‘The problem was, they were guided by their parents or teachers.

‘Talent has been slipping through the net, so change needs to happen.’

LET’S GET TALKING

groups, has already agreed to dispensations for current apprentices, including EPA extensions.

Th e NHBF dedicated July to apprentices and learners. Most importantly, however, the UK government introduced new incentives this year.

At the time of writing, businesses in England were being off ered £3000 for new employees of any age who start their apprenticeship between 1 April 2021 and 30 September 2021. Th e incentive payment is in addition to the £1000 that employers already receive for hiring an apprentice aged 16 to 18, or an apprentice under 25 with an education,

The NHBF has kickstarted a conversation about bout the future of hairdressing with our Shaping the the Future of the Industry campaign.

We want to hear your thoughts about where re things are heading – and whether or not you like it. like ke e it.

Richard Lambert, NHBF chief executive, says: ys: ‘If there is a positive from Covid-19, it is the elevated profi le of the hair and beauty sector, and we must use this to ensure a successful future for the industry.

‘What we need is for all hair and beauty health and care plan or professionals, from salon owners to those just who has been in the care starting out, to join in the conversation and let of their local authority. us know your thoughts.’ Wales was also

Join in the chat on our social channels off ering apprenticeship @nhbfsocial #shapingthefutureoftheindustry incentives, based on age and contract of employment, and Scotland launched two new schemes that closed in July. In Northern Ireland, the New Apprenticeship Incentive Scheme, with up to £3000 on off er, runs until 31 March 2022. West Yorkshire-based Amanda says: ‘Over the last few months, we have seen an encouraging uptake in employers looking for apprentices. I think this is due to the incentive scheme in England.’ Edward is hoping the past 18 months will also help close the skills gap. ‘Our stock has gone up, and schools are going to appreciate that artifi cial intelligence cannot replace a hairdresser,’ he says. ‘We are futureproof, and vocational careers will now be valued that much more.’

KATIE COOK ‘I’VE GROWN AS A PERSON’

Katie Cook, 19, is set to complete her EPA following an apprenticeship at Brooke Evans’ salon BE Ironbridge, in Telford.

When I fi rst started, some people asked why I didn’t just go to college and do a hairdressing course. But doing an apprenticeship is so much better.

You’re in the workplace and are interacting with customers from the word go. You mature a lot. You’ve got to be hardworking and get up in the morning and think, ‘I want to do this.’

I frequently have to think on my feet because everyone around me is busy. That has really made me grow as a person.

I will defi nitely be staying once I’ve fi nished. Brooke really cares about my training.

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