The Complete Guide to Jaguar Tracking

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THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO

JAGUAR TRACKING


WHY SEE JAGUARS IN THE WILD? Jaguars are the largest big cat in the Western Hemisphere. They possess one of the strongest bites in the animal kingdom, which allows them to kill armoured prey like caiman and even break open the shells of turtles. Inspiring both fear and awe in the people with whom they shared the landscape for millennia, the jaguar came to be worshipped by indigenous cultures throughout Central and South America. The Aztecs utilised an elite military unit known as the jaguar warriors, Amazonian tribes drank jaguar blood to absorb the power of the predator and communed with its spirit during psychedelic experiences, and the Maya pantheon included multiple jaguar deities associated with everything from war to midwifery. The jaguar has reigned long in the consciousness of humans in the Americas, and even today we seek it out for reasons running the gamut from the nefarious to the transcendental. Ranging from the United States to Argentina and more or less everywhere in between, jaguars are both pervasive and elusive. No-one knows how many live here – estimates range from 15,000 to 100,000. Their preferred habitat is dense forest, and their camouflaged coat allows them to blend in well with their surroundings. They are an ambush predator, observing their prey while lurking amidst the shadows of dawn and dusk.

Jaguars can be found hunting on land, in water, and in trees, something no other cat does. For this reason, they are the species closest to the heart of Alan Rabinowitz, CEO of big cat charity Panthera. Jaguars are ‘resilient’, he says, but more than this, they are animals of grace and dignity that are worthy of our respect: ‘You’ll never see them as a “circus” animal… they just want to be left alone.’ Sighting jaguars in the wild is an unforgettable experience, one that puts you within the habitat of one of the world’s most iconic species whose place in humanity’s cultural and spiritual history is matched by few other animals. This guide will provide key information on the jaguar and how best to maximise your chances of seeing one on safari. We’ll focus on where, when and how to track them, as well as our favourite itineraries and accommodation options within the big cat’s habitat.

Seeing a jaguar is not the same as seeing a lion in the African savannah, a penguin waddling across Antarctica or a whale breaching the surface of one of the world’s oceans. Going in search of a jaguar requires time, patience, and a keen eye.

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WHERE TO SEE JAGUARS Although jaguars are found in 18 countries throughout the Americas, their elusive nature and preferred habitat of dense forest makes finding them difficult in much of their range. There are some key areas which offer a greater chance of sightings, however, and this map highlights four of these places.

1. BELIZE

2. COSTA RICA

Belize’s Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary was the first jaguar preserve ever established, and remains one of the best places to spot the big cat in Central America; the 150-square-mile habitat is home to around 200 of them. As one of the most heavily forested countries in the world, Belize’s other preserves also provide a number of key corridors for the species.

Thought to have first evolved here in the Caribbean Basin, jaguars can be found hunting sea turtles on Costa Rican beaches and stalking through the rainforests of the country’s interior. Although very rare, your best bet for sightings are the various protected areas here, including Tortuguero and Corcovado National Parks and the Talamanca mountain range.

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3. BRAZILIAN AMAZON

4. BRAZILIAN PANTANAL

The vast scale and dense rainforest of the Brazilian Amazon means locating jaguars here is a difficult task, but many do live here. Although much of the central Amazon is difficult to access, by sticking to the rivers you may be able to spot a jaguar coming to the water’s edge to drink or hunt.

This is the best place to see jaguars in the wild. A high population density, accessible habitat and wellestablished ecotourism industry give travellers a much better chance of making a sighting than in other parts of the jaguar’s range. As ever, plying the region’s waterways and keeping an eye on riverbanks is key.

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HOW TO MAXIMISE YOUR CHANCES OF SEEING JAGUARS IN THE WILD

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RIGHT PLACE It goes without saying that you need to be in the right place to see jaguars. With luck and perseverance, sightings can be had in a number of locations throughout the Americas, including protected areas in Belize, Costa Rica and the Amazon, but the Brazilian Pantanal is undoubtedly the cream of the crop. Although this UNESCO World Heritage Site is the largest continental wetland in the world at over 50,000 square miles - an area larger than England – there are certain key places here that offer a better chance of sightings than anywhere else.

Given that jaguars live alone (with the exception of mothers and cubs) and claim territories of many square miles, you need intimate knowledge of the region you’re visiting in order to find the areas where they are most active. It’s essential to use guides who are wildlife specialists with years of experience spotting jaguars. We only use the services of those who keep track of local sightings and the movements of jaguars within the local area, which gives the guides the best chance of finding the cats.

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RIGHT TIME Jaguars generally lead a crepuscular lifestyle, meaning they are most active at dawn and dusk, but it is possible to spot them at any time of day (or night). The best time of year to see jaguars in the Pantanal is during the dry season, which lasts from June to October. Waterholes become scarcer during this time, which creates a higher density of jaguars around the bodies of water which haven’t dried up. As a result, local guides are better able to predict in which locations the jaguars will be found.

Regardless of where in the Americas you find yourself, it is usually advisable to stay close to water, which will allow you to be best situated when the cats approach to drink or hunt.

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RIGHT APPROACH Many tour companies will sell packages that include night drives, jungle treks and horse-riding excursions to try and spot jaguars. While these are great ways to see some of the other animals found in the incredibly biodiverse Pantanal, they aren’t the best approach if a sighting of the elusive jaguar is your main goal. Although jaguars can be active once the sun has set, the noise of the vehicles on night drives serves as a deterrent to the cats and warns them to stay away. Horse-riding trips are considerably less noisy but tend to take place in more open areas not often frequented by jaguars, while the dense vegetation encountered on jungle treks makes it hard to spot anything other than a rustle of the bushes should you come across one of the big cats.

The best opportunity to see jaguars is on a riverboat safari through the Brazilian Pantanal, as the boats don’t disturb jaguars and the visibility from the deck to the shoreline is excellent, making for great photographic opportunities. We’ve had some amazing sightings of cats coming down to the river for a leisurely drink of water or a swim, as the rivers provide an excellent source of prey (including deer, capybara and caiman).

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JAGUAR CONSERVATION

Compared to other members of the big cat family, the jaguar has a relatively healthy, stable and widespread population; only the puma has a larger distribution. Despite this, the jaguar is still a conservation concern, having been eradicated from 40% of its former range. Once found throughout the southwestern U.S. all the way down to the Argentinian pampas, Panthera onca still exists in 18 Latin American countries, but habitat loss has fragmented populations and poses a danger to the jaguar’s genetic diversity.

PANTHERA In a bid to remedy this, the Jaguar Corridor Initiative has been launched by big cat charity Panthera, with a view to conserving jaguar across their entire 6 million km² range throughout Central and South America. The focus of the project lies in protecting core populations of the big cat within human landscapes, where “corridors” like cattle ranches and plantations help to bridge the gap between wild habitats. Jaguars are notoriously elusive animals, but their presence across so many nations – as well as the increasing threat of deforestation and habitat loss – means that interactions with people are inevitable. The threat posed to livestock is often the main cause of jaguar-human conflict, with ranchers engaging in retaliatory or precautionary killings in order to protect their animals. Panthera are working with landowners in 14 of the jaguar’s 18 range states to promote methods of ranching that will benefit both predator and prey, such as building more secure livestock enclosures and

introducing safe deterrents to properties. Education also plays a key role, as the overhunting of a jaguar’s usual prey by local communities encourages livestock predation. Writing in the July 2017 volume of Global Ecology and Conservation, Panthera’s Fernando Tortato and Rafael Hoogesteijn estimate that while a single cow in the Brazilian Pantanal is worth $2,000 in its lifetime, each jaguar here brings in $108,000 a year in ecotourism income. This means that a massive part of the work done to protect jaguars in this area must focus on the people that live here, especially when it comes to sharing ecotourism revenue with local ranchers and landowners. If the loss of livestock is compensated for many times over, it would mean that jaguars and humans here can live in harmony. The Pantanal is home to the highest density of jaguars in the world, and one of the healthiest and most stable core populations of the species. More than 95% of the land here is privately owned, and although this means jaguars inevitably intrude on ranches and plantations, it has also contributed to a flourishing ecotourism industry when landowners, conservationists and travel outfitters work together. Showing local communities that they can benefit from co-existing peacefully with jaguars is crucial to protecting the species. Also important is informing said communities that as an apex predator, a healthy jaguar population begets a healthy ecosystem, from the top to the bottom of the food chain.

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JAGUAR CONSERVATION The situation in the Pantanal is not reflected everywhere in the jaguar’s range, however. In some places, jaguars are hunted and killed for no other reason than that they’re jaguars. Their skins, bones and teeth can fetch a high price, which makes hunting the big cat a lucrative opportunity for impoverished communities. In recent years, the demand for jaguar teeth for use in traditional Asian medicine has led to an alarming rise in poaching, particularly in Bolivia. Between 2014 and 2016, the Bolivian authorities seized 800 teeth – equating to the deaths of around 200 jaguars – with China being the most likely destination for the contraband. Although the export of jaguar parts is illegal, the possibility of profit is great enough to encourage poaching, with a single tooth going for as much as $100 to $200.

ONÇAFARI PROJECT Despite the illegal trade in jaguar parts, many people are working hard to protect Panthera onca. The Onçafari Project is a conservation initiative composed of vets and biologists who work to protect jaguars in the Pantanal’s Caiman Ecological Refuge through both research and ecotourism. Established in 2011, the team at Onçafari have worked to habituate the cats and monitor both their health and behaviour through regular check-ups and radio collar data. The project has been a great success – in 2012, only 15% of guests in the refuge came away with a jaguar sighting, but in 2016, this number had risen to 75%, and as high as 90% during the dry season. Onçafari have also been successful in reintroducing captive jaguars into the wild for the first time in history, when they rehabilitated two orphaned cubs and eventually returned them to their natural habitat in the Pantanal in 2016. They are now currently working to reintroduce two more cubs into the Amazon. Learning more about the jaguar allows us to implement more effective conservation strategies, and an increased likelihood of sightings spells benefits for the ecotourism industry, which will contribute more and more money to protecting this iconic species.

IMPROVING THE INTERFACE BETWEEN HUMAN AND JAGUAR IS THE ONLY WAY TO ENSURE THE SURVIVAL OF THE SPECIES.

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OTHER WILDLIFE OF THE PANTANAL

The jaguar may be the most iconic resident of the Pantanal, but it shares this vast and biodiverse area with a large number of other animals. The lowland tapir, with its distinctive prehensile snout, is one of the largest terrestrial animals in all of South America. They are excellent swimmers and can be seen in the Pantanal’s rivers and wetland areas, as well as along riverbanks, where they tend to sleep. The largest rodent in the world, the capybara, also favours wetland areas. These highly social animals graze on grasses and aquatic plants and are often seen in groups of anywhere from 10 to 100 individuals. The giant river otter, another semiaquatic mammal, also plies the Pantanal’s waterways in search of food, while marsh deer possess hooves specially adapted for swimming. The giant anteater tends to favour drier land but can still be found throughout the Pantanal, where it forages in open grassland for its preferred prey of ants, larvae and termites. With their long snout, distinctive markings and bushy tail, these insectivores are instantly recognisable, although those living in the Pantanal have been found to be mostly nocturnal. Amongst the trees, you’ll be able to spot capuchins – made famous as the “organ grinder” monkey – and howler monkeys, so named for their loud calls which can be heard up to three miles away. One of the most common reptiles in the Pantanal is the yacare caiman, with 10 million individuals thought to exist in the region. Although not as large as some crocodilians in other parts of the world, males can still regularly reach sizes of 6 – 9 ft. The Pantanal is also home to the green anaconda, which at an average length of 15 ft is the secondlongest snake in the world, as well as the heaviest. The name of its genus, Eunectes, means “good swimmer” in Greek, and the snake lives up to this moniker when propelling its massive bulk through the Pantanal’s rivers. The Pantanal’s birdlife will be a constant on any safari here, and the species are vibrant and varied. You’ll be able to spot bright blue hyacinth macaws and lime green parakeets sharing the skies with yellow-headed vultures and chaco eagles, while waterbirds like egrets, herons and spoonbills hunt in ponds and rivers. Two of South America’s most distinctive birds – the southern crested caracara and jabiru stork – can also be spotted here. In drier areas, you may even be able to spot South America’s largest bird, the flightless greater rhea.

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NWS TRISTAN’S TRAVEL JOURNAL Nothing in life is guaranteed, except death, taxes and the jaguar ruling the Pantanal. To most, the jaguar is the number one highlight of any wildlife safari to Brazil, and rightfully so. The third-largest big cat in the world is majestic, beautiful, awe-inspiring… the superlatives run dry before you manage to accurately describe the apex predator of the Amazon and Pantanal. The excitement leading up to my first sighting was visible, as I just couldn’t get that grin off my face before heading out on the banks of the Cuiabá River in the northern Pantanal. You know the jaguars are there, so as long as you are here at the right time of year – the best time to travel is during the dry-season months between June and October – it’s just a matter of when you will see one and what it will be doing. I wasn’t picky, and over the course of 16 days I was treated to 15 sightings. Whether the jaguar was sleeping in golden sunlight, losing a staring competition with a caiman, mating among the trees or hunting on the riverbanks, each sighting produced moments of true unfiltered amazement. Although every sighting was special for me, my favourite one may also have been the one where the jaguar was the most hidden by vegetation. At the Caiman Ecological Refuge, a 53,000-acre ranch teeming with wildlife in the southern Pantanal, a young female in need of privacy left the pond where she was hunting for caiman and ran for the treeline as we approached in our truck. We came to a halt and observed her for a little while, as we could only make out her head and a few rosettes on her coat from behind the bushes. What made this particular sighting special was that the treeline section of forest she entered was part of a restricted and protected national reserve. It’s off-limits to everyone: no traveller, biologist or local cattle farmer is allowed beyond this treeline, a decision taken by the federal government to ensure the protection of certain wildlife-rich areas across the country. I had the funny feeling that this jaguar knew this, and was telling us something along the lines of, “OK, you may see me, but this is MY land, MY primary rainforest”. Or maybe she was playing a game of seduction, trying carefully not to reveal too much and maintain the mystery. Either way, it worked, and left us baffled.

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BEST LODGES FOR JAGUAR SIGHTINGS To be in the right place at the right time on your jaguar safari, the right accommodation is key. Staying somewhere in the Brazilian Pantanal will provide you with a perfect platform for excursions into the wild in search of this magnificent big cat. Each of the options listed here have been chosen for their proximity to waterways – which offer the best chance of seeing jaguars here in the Pantanal – and for the quality of their expert guides.

BAIAZINHA LODGE This traditional ranch-style lodge is found within the Caiman Ecological Refuge, home to The Onçafari Project. Situated on the banks of a crystal-clear lake, you’ll be able to enjoy the sun sparkling on this wetland waterway from the lodge’s balconies, lounge area or swimming pool. Baiazinha’s proximity to the Córrego Agachi River also allows for easy access to boat trips, which offer the best chance of spotting jaguars in the Pantanal.

BARRANCO ALTO ECO LODGE A 27,000-acre ranch in the southern Pantanal serves as the setting for Barranco Alto, a lodge run by two biologists with a focus on supporting research and reducing humans’ ecological impact here in the region. Wildlife excursions can be undertaken on horseback, in canoes or in 4x4s. The lodge sits along the northern bank of the Rio Negro – perfect for water-based journeys.

CORDILHEIRA LODGE For guests staying at Cordilheira Lodge, jeep safaris present the best option for spotting jaguars, as the refuge is home to the cats that Onçafari are in the process of monitoring and habituating. Cordilheira is also a great choice for viewing other wildlife, as a wooded hillside can be explored on one side of the lodge while the other side offers fantastic views of the nearby lake.

HOTEL PANTANAL NORTE Found at the end of the Transpantaneira Highway – the road which runs the length of the Pantanal – this hotel is the largest and most easily accessible of our chosen accommodation options, but jaguars can still be sighted not far from here thanks to the hotel’s fleet of boats and enviable location on the Cuiabá River. The gardens here attract toucans, macaws and other colourful Pantanal birdlife.

SOUTHWILD JAGUAR FLOTEL Unique among hotels in the Pantanal, SouthWild offer accommodation that isn’t just next to the region’s rivers, but on them. Their floating hotel in the northern Pantanal offers guests the chance to view jaguars from the hotel itself, and the ability to sail along the waterways here in search of the best spots for sightings is a definite added bonus.

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BEST SAFARIS FOR JAGUAR SIGHTINGS Crafted by our Destination Specialists who are experts in putting you in the right place at the right time to maximise wildlife sightings, the following safari itineraries allow you to immerse yourself in the world of the jaguar while experiencing unparalleled wildlife and wilderness. We are also able to tailor each safari according to your own personal preferences, so speak to us if you want to add stops at certain destinations or incorporate specialist activities into your itinerary.

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PANTANAL JAGUAR SAFARI ACCOMMODATION Southwild Jaguar Flotel

“THE PANTANAL IS THE WORLD’S LARGEST WETLAND AND THE BEST PLACE TO OBSERVE JAGUARS IN THEIR NATURAL HABITAT.”

TRIP DETAILS

An adventurous 7 day jaguar tracking safari - from £3,795 per person sharing, excluding international flights. The North Pantanal lies at a higher altitude than the southern section, making it less prone to flooding during the wet season. The existence of the Transpantaneira Highway also makes the north more accessible than the south. At the start of this safari, you’ll travel down the Transpantaneira towards your first night’s accommodation on the banks of the Pixaim River, passing habitats populated by capybara, caiman and a host of birdlife. On the second day you’ll make your way to Porto Jofre, where you’ll settle in to your home for the next four days: the SouthWild Jaguar Flotel. From here you’ll embark on daily excursions into the wilds of the Pantanal aboard private boats, travelling along the region’s rivers for sightings of caiman, tapirs and river otters in addition to the elusive jaguar. Photographers will be especially pleased with the pivoting chairs that offer 180° views of the riverbanks. Our clients have reported an average of two jaguar sightings a day here during the dry season! The penultimate day of your safari will involve you re-joining the Transpantaneira as you head to the SouthWild Pantanal, a lodge which offers boat outings and night drives in addition to resident wildlife guides, who will be able to educate you about the creatures which call this area home. Rise early the following day and transfer to Cuiabá Airport for your return flight, leaving the jaguars behind.

This is a tailor-made safari which can be amended to suit your preferences. For more details, give us a call: UK Office: +44 (0) 1273 691 642 US Toll Free: 1866 357 6569

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BRAZIL WILDLIFE SAFARI ACCOMMODATION Cristalino Lodge

Southwild Jaguar Flotel

Barranco Alto Eco-Lodge

TRIP DETAILS

An immersive 21 day safari exploring the natural highlights of Brazil from £10,995 per person sharing, excluding international flights. If you’re hoping to combine great jaguar sightings with the best that the rest of Brazil has to offer, look no further than this 21-day odyssey across the country. You’ll start and finish in Rio de Janeiro, soaking up the culture of one of the most vibrant cities in the world. In between you’ll visit both the Pantanal and the Amazon for 11 full days of wildlife encounters, as well as the natural wonder of Iguassu Falls on the Argentinian border. Your first port of call after Rio de Janeiro is the southern Amazon, where you’ll be staying in the pristine Cristalino Reserve at a gorgeous eco-lodge. While jaguar sightings are very rare here, there is a wealth of other wildlife on offer including monkeys, snakes, macaws, over 500 species of bird and a mind-boggling 1,800 varieties of butterfly. There is a 50-metre canopy tower available for use in addition to boats and canoes, and expert naturalist guides will accompany you on your excursions. When your time in the Amazon comes to an end, you’ll head straight to the Pantanal, taking in both the north and the south to maximise your chances of sighting jaguars. You may also spot giant otters, giant anteaters, caiman and capybara while travelling via boat, jeep or horse. As one of Brazil’s most iconic landmarks, Iguassu Falls is not to be missed, and you’ll be able to view its approximately 270 waterfalls from your hotel located within the national park here.

This is a tailor-made safari which can be amended to suit your preferences. For more details, give us a call: UK Office: +44 (0) 1273 691 642 US Toll Free: 1866 357 6569

WWW.NATURALWORLDSAFARIS.COM | SALES@NATURALWORLDSAFARIS.COM | UK: +44 (0)1273 691| US: 6421866 | US:357 18666569 357 |6569 | AU668 1800 668 890 WWW.NATURALWORLDSAFARIS.COM | SALES@NATURALWORLDSAFARIS.COM | UK: +44 (0)1273 691 642 AU: 1800 890


ULTIMATE JAGUAR SAFARI ACCOMMODATION Southwild Jaguar Suites

“THE ULTIMATE JAGUAR SAFARI; BE IN WITH THE BEST CHANCE OF SEEING THESE MAGNIFICENT BIG CATS IN THE WILD.”

TRIP DETAILS This is a tailor-made safari which can be amended to suit your preferences.

An adventurous 11 day jaguar tracking safari - from £5,200 per person sharing, excluding international flights. With a full focus on the Brazilian Pantanal, this safari takes you to both the northern and southern sections of the world’s largest wetland area in search of the jaguar. You’ll be tracking the big cats in jeeps and in boats, while night excursions will give you an alternative perspective on the habitats of the Pantanal. Upon arrival into Cuiabá, you’ll be met by your guide and begin to drive further into the Pantanal, watching as civilisation recedes and wildlife begins to appear along the side of the road. A 2-day stay at the SouthWild Pantanal gives you opportunities for canoeing, piranha fishing, jeep safaris and night walks. The terminus of the Transpantaneira lies at Porto Jofre, your destination on Day 4 of your safari. Jaguars can often be seen along the final 20 miles of the highway, so keep your eyes peeled. Next you’ll transfer along the Piquirí River to the SouthWild Jaguar Suites, which floats off the riverbank in prime jaguar-viewing territory. Make sure to make the most of the photographic opportunities on the way! During your time at the Suites you’ll enjoy two boat outings per day – six in total – which are perfect for spotting jaguars as they take to the riverbanks seeking prey, water or sunlight. Your next three nights will be spent at a lodge situated in a 27,000-acre ranch, where you can head out on walks with an expert naturalist guide, try your hand at horseback riding, search for giant anteaters and view jaguars along the Rio Negro.

For more details, give us a call: UK Office: +44 (0) 1273 691 642 US Toll Free: 1866 357 6569

WWW.NATURALWORLDSAFARIS.COM | SALES@NATURALWORLDSAFARIS.COM | UK: +44 (0)1273 691| US: 6421866 | US:357 18666569 357 |6569 | AU668 1800 668 890 WWW.NATURALWORLDSAFARIS.COM | SALES@NATURALWORLDSAFARIS.COM | UK: +44 (0)1273 691 642 AU: 1800 890


WHY NWS IN THE PANTANAL? As niche wildlife outfitters, we pride ourselves on providing clients with animal encounters that will live long in the memory. Originally operating as World Big Cat Safaris (as well as World Bear Safaris and World Primate Safaris), NWS was formed in 2005 to assemble our team’s considerable natural world experience under one banner. In addition to jaguars in Brazil, we have taken clients to see Chile’s elusive pumas, Bengal tigers in India and Siberian tigers in Russia, lions, cheetahs and leopards on the plains of Africa, and snow leopards stalking through the Himalayas.

We have a 100% success rate when it comes to jaguar sightings in the Pantanal. Our extensive first-hand knowledge of the animal, area and accommodation allows us to tailor itineraries that will take you to exactly where you need to be. The expert guides we work with on the ground, many of whom are also naturalists who have worked in the Pantanal for decades, will be on hand to provide you with their considerable expertise throughout your trip. From the first point of contact, our focus will be on putting you in the right place at the right time to maximise your wildlife experience.

FIND OUT MORE OR BOOK Call from UK +44 (0)1273 691 642 Toll Free from US 1866 357 6569 Toll Free from Australia 1800 668 890 Email sales@naturalworldsafaris.com

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