PUMA TRACKING CHILE
The snow underfoot sparkled so brightly I felt like I was trampling on a carpet of diamonds. Under crisp blue skies, the beauty of Patagonia’s winter – its lakes, glaciers, mountains and rivers – revealed itself in every direction. But that would have to wait. We knew a puma and her cubs were close: if we were quick, we might just catch our first sighting of South America’s iconic and most elusive big cat.
Sue Watts, writing for The Telegraph travelling with Natural World Safaris
Torres del Paine National Park, spanning nearly 900 square miles of southern, is home to a high density of pumas. Tracking pumas isn’t easy. They don’t roar like lions, nor do they wear GPS collars signalling their whereabouts. Instead, trackers need to rely on nature’s tell-tale signs – the guanacos’ alarm cry, their panicked running, or standing rigid, staring towards the puma they’ve just sensed. Condors, eagles and vulture-like caracaras also help, circling over kills. Most important is the experience of our expect guides in knowing the puma’s usual rituals and behaviour. Our trackers have years of knowledge gleaned from time spent in this rugged terrain, learning the movement and mindset of these elusive felines.
Our puma tracking departures offer the opportunity to explore this wild landscape of dramatic mountain scenery and Patagonian Steppe, flatlands of thorny calafate bushes and prickly shrubs, dotted with tumbled rocks that provide a popular resting place for pumas.
Natural World Safaris knows puma tracking like no other travel outfitter. Our passion has allowed us to gain unique access to experts and specialists you won’t be able to travel with through anyone else. Puma trekking trips can be extended to include other areas within Chile. Explore the Atacama Desert to seek out Incan culture, salt flats, geysers and more. Or how about remote Easter Island; just five hours from Santiago is the UNESCO world heritage site of Rapa Nui with its iconic statues and excellent scuba diving. Email our Destination Specialists on sales@naturalworldsafaris.com and we can send you a range of itinerary ideas to suit your interests, budget and travel style.
ABOUT PUMAS
The puma – also known as the cougar, mountain lion, panther or catamount – is the world’s most adaptable big cat. The species can be found all the way from the Canadian Rockies to the tip of South America, making its home in a variety of forests, deserts, steppes, scrublands, grasslands and mountainous areas. There are plenty of places where one can spot a puma, but it is the windswept wilds of Chilean Patagonia that offer by far the best puma tracking experience.
Although pumas can be found throughout Patagonia, there is an exceptionally high density of cats in the Torres del Paine National Park thanks to an abundance of prey, a vast area to roam uninhabited by humans, and the fact that it is strictly forbidden to hunt pumas in Chile. Pumas in Patagonia tend to be bigger than the North American ones due to the favourable living conditions.
WHEN TO GO
Puma tracking can be done in Patagonia year-round with the different seasons offering different experiences.
Summer (October - April): The Patagonian summer is the most popular time to visit the region to take advantage of the best weather. The days are long with up to 17 hours of light a day in December, with a good chance of clear, bright skies. This tends to be the busiest time of year for visitors to the park, especially people trekking, which can make the pumas a little more cautious, opting to hunt high in the mountains.
Winter (June - August): Moving into the Patagonia winter it gets very cold and the weather inhospitable. The pumas follow the guanaco herds down to the areas below the snow line, and there is a better chance of undisturbed sightings in the winter, although the conditions can be tough. This is a particularly good time for photography, with snow covered backdrops. The snow cover also offers the opportunity to track prints and there is virtually nobody else in the park; just you, the mountains and the cats in what is sometimes referred to as silent season.
Spring (September - November) and Autumn (March - May): These are good months to visit the region to see the colours of spring flowers and autumnal foliage.
OTHER WILDLIFE
This is rugged terrain – often buffeted by high winds – which ensures the animals that do survive here are among the hardiest in South America.
The puma may be at the top of the food chain here, but it is not the largest inhabitant of Patagonia by any stretch. That honour goes to the guanaco, a wild relative of the llama that is at least three times the size of a fully grown puma. Standing at two metres tall and living in herds, they have been called “the continent’s most challenging prey”.
The culpeo, or Andean fox, sits below the puma in the pecking order of Patagonia’s predators. Opportunistic in nature, it can be seen scavenging carrion (including puma kills) as well as hunting small rodents. The South American grey fox, a smaller relative of the culpeo, also stalks the region’s hills.
The pampas cat, Geoffroy’s cat and the kodkod are three cat species that also prey upon Patagonia’s rodents and nonnative rabbits.
been enshrined by Chile as a National Natural Monument. Keep an eye out also for hig-nosed skunks and hairy armadillos.
The birdlife of Patagonia includes the lesser rhea, a large flightless bird about a metre in height, as well as many other species that can be seen on the wing. There are owls, flamingos, kingfishers, parakeets, meadowlarks, woodpeckers and buzzard-eagles, to name just a few.
The southern crested caracara and its distinctive golden beak is often a highlight of birdwatchers’ travels to Patagonia, as is the Andean condor, the largest flying bird in the world.
Travel to the coast in Chlean Patagonia and you’re likely to be greeted with the sight of large fur seal and sea lion colonies, as well as plenty of penguins.
Other noteworthy mammals include the pudú, the world’s smallest deer, and the huemul, a larger deer species that has
Depending on which part of Chile’s coastline you visit, you may encounter Magellanic, southern rockhopper or macaroni penguins. Off shore, seafarers can hope to catch sight of cetaceans making the most of the rich waters, including orcas, whales and various dolphin species.
A PUMA TRACKING EXPERIENCE
Our Latin America Destination Specialist, Tristan Whitworth, shares his experience of tracking pumas.
“The early bird catches the worm” is not a quote that I live by. So, when at 4:30am my alarm shook me from a deep sleep during my first night in Torres del Paine National Park, to say I was struggling would be an understatement. But sore eyes soon gave way to excitement.
As stripped on layer after layer of lifesaving thermals, it dawned on me that I might be one of a lucky few to catch a glimpse of the elusive puma today, the apex predator of Patagonia.
Entrusting my wildlife-viewing fate to a team of experienced trackers, we set off in our 4x4 and made our way out of the national park, Thermoses in hand, to an area of private land where pumas are known to roam. Last night at dinner, our main guide Diego explained that a fresh guanaco kill had been spotted near a ridge, towering over Lago Sarmiento.
The plan this morning was to venture out to the area around the lake, as it was likely that whatever took down the poor camelid would return at first light to feed. After a 25-minute drive, the jeep had taken us as far as it could,
and it was time to continue on foot in the 60mph winds. My initial thoughts were to sarcastically thank Antarctica for sharing these gales with us, and to wholeheartedly thank my wife for her expertise in the aforementioned lifesaving thermals.
After quite some time spent walking up and downhill against the wind, marvelling at these vast but unforgiving Patagonian landscapes, adrenaline hit a new high as we were signalled to slow down the pace and remain quiet. There, about 50 metres ahead, the reward for my effort had just finished breakfast, and what a sight it was. Not one, but five pumas – a mother and four cubs – had spent the early hours of the day making quick work of a guanaco. They were already walking in the direction of their next spot, somewhere to sleep off the proteindense calories for the rest of the day.
This next hour truly made this morning’s efforts entirely worthwhile. It goes without saying that not interfering with this family’s day and causing any kind of disturbance was our main priority. The cats were at least 60 or 70 metres downhill now, and watching them from this distance, with the emerald-blue lake and snowy peaks in the background, made for a stunning sighting. We started walking towards the lake,
maintaining that same distance. This activity is commonly known as puma tracking, but in that instant, found that description inaccurate. was walking with pumas, sharing a fleeting moment of their day, on their turf, in their home.
As we arrived within 20 metres of the vast Lago Sarmiento, with the family of pumas 60 metres to our right in a small rocky area, the morning got even better. Led by their fearless mother, the family turned towards us and started slowly pacing in our direction, completely oblivious to our presence.
What I didn’t expect was that the mother wouldn’t break stride until she stopped five metres from us. Five metres separated me from this magnificent beast and it’s in this precious moment that I found there is such a thing as forgetting to breathe.
Overcome with total joy, it was imperative to remain calm – not the easiest task as the four cubs slowly joined their mother a short distance from us. The pumas seemingly taking notice of our presence was our cue to retreat, but with her eyes locked in with mine I could hardly hide my gleeful and triumphant smile. This moment was an unexpected treasure at the end of a blissful quest. This was walking with pumas.
PUMA TRACKING & WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY
6 DAYS, OCTOBER - MARCH
FROM £5,500 / $6,400 USD PP
Explore wild Patagonia in search of pumas and other wildlife with expert trackers and photographers.
This wonderful safari ventures through stunning Torres del Paine National Park with expert guides and photographers, some of which are the most qualified locals in terms in tracking, approximation and photography of the fauna in the region. Staying at the wonderful EcoCamp Patagonia, head out each day to explore the park in search of its wonderful wildlife and extraordinary landscapes.
Most days begin close to camp, in the park’s eastern sector, taking advantage of the stunning morning light and any animal activity. You will spend approximately six hours viewing and photographing the native wildlife of the park. You are likely to observe culpeo foxes, the mighty Andean condor, guanacos, and we hope to view the puma and the endangered huemul (South Andean deer). In the afternoons, after the peak sun hours and little wildlife activity, you may head to the western parts of the park. Here you have the opportunity to capture some of the more iconic landmarks such as Grey’s Glacier and The Horns while waiting for news from the trackers.
WHERE TO STAY
Offering a range of options from beautiful boutique hotels to ranch style wineries and luxury eco-camping, there is something to accommodate all tastes. The below properties are some of our Patagonian favourites:
Awasi Patagonia
This Relais & Chateaux property is built to complement its natural surroundings, Awasi Patagonia consists of 14 stunning modern lodges perfectly integrated into the stunning landscape of Chilean Patagonia. Located in a private reserve spanning 4,500 hectares, this lodge is a haven for those wanting to escape modern life and get in touch with nature. Each villa also comes with a private guide and private 4x4 vehicle.
Eco Camp Patagoia
(pictured)
Eco Camp prides itself in being Chile’s first fully sustainable accommodation, complete with green technology. The camp is comprised of a network of geodesic domes.
Explora Patagonia
Part of the Explora brand that was voted “World’s Leading Expedition Company” at the 2019 World Travel Awards, this striking lodge sits astride Salto Chico Falls and the turquoise waters of Lake Pehoé. Facilities include a spa, saunas, massage rooms, outdoor Jacuzzis and a heated indoor pool.
WHY US FOR PUMA TRACKING IN CHILE
Over the 17 years that Natural World Safaris has been established, we’ve sent clients all over the globe, to some of the most remote and least travelled parts of the planet. We are well recognised as the leading experts in our field; our awards and press coverage pay testament to this.
Most travel companies predominantly sell trekking trips in Torres del Paine, whereas our primary focus in this destination is wildlife. There are guides who operate using less than ethical practices that interrupt the pumas natural behaviour; we strictly only work with genuine experts who use traditional, nondisruptive tracking methods and operate non-obtrusively and with respect to the wildlife and natural environment.
Our team have spent time tracking pumas in Chile. We knowthe region well, and have several contacts and personal friends in-country who we can rely on. While you are away you also have access to our 24/7 emergency line so you can speak to somebody in our UK office at any time of day or night.
We use the very best English speaking guides and experienced trackers. Our focus is wildlife, putting you in the right place at the right time for memorable encounters.
IN THE PRESS & AWARDS
Natural World Safaris has won various awards for our unique and carefully crafted safaris. We’ve also featured in the press around the globe, receiving rave reviews from some of the world’s most respected travel writers.
“The Fixer to use”
“A marvel for first-hand knowledge of destinations”
“One of the most unique experiences in the world”
“One of the more intrepid operators in southern and eastern Africa”
“An adventure off the scale - a place and experience to make your heart beat faster”
YOUR NEXT STEPS
Contact our team of destination specialists at sales@naturalworldsafaris.com and somebody will get in touch to tell you more about this fantastic destination and the sort of options available for you. We can send you a sample of itineraries to look through, to suit your interests, travel style and budget.