Chopard anniversary
Finally, a navigation system without that annoying voice. “I’m not saying a word.”
Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Ref. 3902: “Please make a U-turn if possible.” The instruments used by sailors in the tradition of Vasco da Gama and Fernando Magellan tend to be less intrusive. As the greatest adventurers on the world’s oceans, the discoverer of the sea route to India (1497) and the first man to circumnavigate the globe (1519) were bound together by courage, navigational skills and outstanding nautical expertise. Their ability to determine time, course and position reliably enabled them to conquer a global empire. Almost 500 years later, two Portuguese businessmen took a trip to Schaffhausen: Messrs Rodrigues and Teixeira (the latter a direct descendant of the well-known mariner) were in search of a wristwatch with all the qualities of a marine chronograph. Their quest led to the birth of an icon: using the ultra-precise 74-calibre pocket watch movement, our engineers created a wristwatch of unprecedented accuracy: the Portuguese. The history of IWC began in 1868 when Florentine Ariosto Jones, an American watchmaker and entrepreneur from Boston, founded the International Watch Company in northeastManufactory in ern Switzerland. Since then, the firm’s Schaffhausen. engineers have developed legendary timepieces such as the Grande Complication, the Ingenieur line, the Portuguese models, the Pilot’s Watch family, and the Da Vinci and Aquatimer series. ‘Probus Scafusia’ (good solid craftsmanship from Schaffhausen) is a reassuringly clear expression of IWC’s philosophy. And for
over 140 years, the many technical achievements and innovations originating from Schaffhausen have set standards for the world of watchmaking. The Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph is a legend of navigation in its own right. It was first unveiled as the historic Yacht Club in a gold case in 1967. Equipped with a rugged automatic movement, it was produced until the mid-1980s. Now its descendant offers an alternative to the more classical members of the Portuguese family with a contemporary, sporting flair. The precision integral to a genuine nautical instrument is expressed to perfection on the clearly laid-out dial with chapter IWC-manufactured ring. Water-resistant 6 bar with a diam- movement. eter of 45.4 mm, the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph is guaranteed to find a berth in the harbour of your choice, even at the height of the season. Its IWC-manufactured 89360-calibre movement with flyback function and automatic double-pawl winding guarantees precise landings by day and night. And even if you do happen to head off in the wrong direction, no one’s going to start nagging you. IWC. Engineered for men.
Mechanical IWC-manufactured movement (figure) | Flyback function | Automatic IWC doublepawl winding system | Date display | Antireflective sapphire glass | Sapphire-glass back cover | Water-resistant 6 bar | Stainless steel
IWC Schaf f hausen, Swit zerland. w w w.iwc.com
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23 219-223 George Sreet Aberdeen AB25 1HY Tel: 01224 636632 Fax: 01224 624223 www. finniesjewellers.co.uk enquiries@ finniesjewellers.co.uk
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contents 06 A FAMILY FIRM
23 community jewellers
Finnies has always kept it in their family – they share the Proudly supporting the community – Peggy Finnie’s secrets of their success charitable efforts have been rewarded with an MBE
Jewellery photographed June 2010 – prices and availability may vary
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09 A Timeless Icon
35 2011 Jewellery Catalogue
Ever the epitome of style Gucci reveal their latest watch collection
Stunning jewels and sparkling designs – be inspired by the latest collections instore
14 Jewellery that Dazzles
72 perfect platinum
Beautiful jewellery, would we expect anything less striking from Gucci’s latest collection?
Cool platinum is the world’s ultimate precious metal – Alison Marshall finds out more
17 enter the dragon
75 Design on Perfume
Josh Sims enters the ‘Dragon’s Den’ to discuss life and aspirations with entrepreneur Peter Jones
Take your pick from the ultimate chic scents with the latest designer perfume offerings
22 The New Petite Face of Chanel J12
82 Planning your Special Day
The new 29mm Chanel J12 proves that bigger is not always better
Take the worry out of wedding planning with Finnies comprehensive guide to the best in the area
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Publisher Peter Marshall PA Olivia White Managing Editor Shirley Marshall Editor Katy Morris Assistant Editor Sue Christelow
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Editorial Contributors Margaret Halliday Alison Marshall Josh Sims Design Manager Philip Donnelly Designer Jemma Pentney Production Glyn Mansfield Network Photography Myburgh du Plessis Jewellery Sales Manager Diane Farnham Sales Support Diane Warren
Network
BOOK Publishing Ltd
28 Ballmoor, Celtic Court, Buckingham MK18 1RQ Tel: +44 (0)1280 829300 Fax: +44 (0)1280 829350 general@networklifestyle.com www.networkpublishingltd.com © Network Book Publishing Ltd 2010. While every effort is made to ensure accuracy, no responsibility can be accepted for inaccuracies, howsoever caused. No liability can be accepted for illustrations, photographs, artwork or advertising materials while in transmission or with the publisher or their agents. All information is correct at time of going to print.
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contents 95 Golden Year for Rutland
106 Under the Sea
The award-winning Rutland Hotel is the ultimate destination for rest and relaxation in the heart of Edinburgh
Featuring Breitling’s latest SuperOcean watch, Josh Sims goes deep into this latest development
99 Cashmere Touch
109 Racing for Time
With over 200 year’s experience Johnstons of Elgin are Dutch watch brand TW Steel join forces with Renault the masters at producing luxury cashmere F1 Team
100 Imperiale Standards
116 let them eat cake
Chopard introduce their latest, classically designed, watch collection
Josh Sims indulges in star pâtissier Christophe Michalak’s cake creations
102 Watching the Seas
119 The Connoisseurs’ Choice
Homage to the pioneering voyages of Portugal Josh Sims takes a look at latest offering from IWC
Bernex – offers heirloom quality at affordable prices
105 The Flight of the Skyhawk Citizen pays tribute to the ‘touch of brilliance’ that is the Red Arrows with their new Citizen Skyhawk
Finnies the Jeweller
a family High quality, value for money and providing a high level of customer service are areas in which every jeweller hopes to excel. However, only Finnies the Jeweller can claim that they have excelled in these areas since 1957.
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he personal touch has always been a key motto for the family jeweller and it is clear that their customers appreciate this as they return time and time again. “Often it’s the couples that return to buy from us,” director Sarah Dawson explains, “maybe an engagement or wedding ring, then an eternity or christening and then jewellery for their own children, who in turn come back to us.” And after offering over 50 years of choice and personal service it is no surprise that Finnies have a wealth of loyal customers. Finnies the Jewellers was first set up in 1957 when Ron Finnie opened his own shop
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in St Nicholas Street repairing watches, before moving just three years later to the store’s current location on George Street. It was in this store that Finnies served Aberdeen with great service and quality products until 2001 saw the expansion of the original shop into the neighbouring vacant pub, The Glens. Standing at the corner of George Street and John Street, the new development saw Finnies’ popularity develop even further. “The expansion was definitely needed.” explains Sarah. “We were renowned for having customers queuing outside in order to purchase their Christmas presents,” she adds, “we’re still busy but at least they can queue inside!” Sarah Dawson knows all about Christmas in Finnies; as the daughter of
Peggy and Ron Finnie she has spent a great deal of time in the store, and later married Stewart Dawson in 1981, who also became a member of the team. Today, three generations of the Finnies family are involved in the business. Ron and Peggy are still very much involved, with Peggy taking a keen interest in charity work, while Ron focuses on the stone side of the business. The second generation, Matthew Finnie and Sarah Dawson, now look after the day-to-day running of the store. Matthew is the expert on the watch side of the business while Stewart and Sarah concentrate on the jewellery that they are so famed for. Recently Sarah and Stewart’s children, daughter Dominique and son Declan, have also followed in their
firm... parents’ and grandparents’ footsteps, by working for the business. Dominique, who passed her Gemology course last year in London, has recently been working in the Chanel fine jewellery boutique in Harrods. “Working for Chanel has been such a fantastic experience and I feel I can take so much back to Finnies,” Dominique explains. “The jewellery ranges from £1000 to £1,000,000 – dealing with a different type of customer and such a high value product.” She adds: “My role consists of sales and running the boutique – I have learnt a great deal especially in regards to management, dealing with high value transactions and a different way of business.” Dominique is also enthusiastic about her time spent in London, and often visits fine jewellers such as Graff, Mouseiff, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chopard, Bvlgari and Boodles in order to gain inspiration and ideas that she can take back to Finnies. Meanwhile, son Declan is learning his passion in Finnies “I really enjoy working on the watch counter,” he enthuses, “I’ve met so many big names in the watch business – it’s a brilliant experience.”
And for Finnies their reputation has grown for holding some of the most exclusive watch and jewellery brands available in the North East – from Cartier, IWC, Bell & Ross, Georg Jensen and Chopard the range is extensive. With all these brands there must be plenty of memorable moments; “Definitely one of our highlights was Raymond Weil’s visit in 1995, he is such a recognised name in the watch world and we were one of the first to stock him” explains watch enthusiast, Matthew Finnie. “We try to cater for all tastes,” he says, “we have over 25 brands, and have pieces from over £25 and pieces for over £100,000.” So how do Ron and Peggy feel about the popularity of Finnies? “Originally when we first opened we had to stock the shop with some of our wedding presents!” Peggy explains, “it’s amazing to think how far it’s come now.” And with watches, jewellery, gifts, glassware and a variety of grandfather and grandmother clocks in stock, there really is something for everyone, together with quality staff and service it is understandable why they say ‘Finnies – for life’.
Clockwise from left to right: Mary Macpherson, Ron Finnie and Raymond Garden, 1979 The Glens Pub now Finnies watch showroom, 2001 The new OMEGA clock Raymond Weil with Peggy and Ron Finnie, 1995 The refit of The Glens The Finnies sign above front door The completed refurbishment The jewellery refit and new roof The old shop interior before the refit, 2000
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icon a timeless
Gucci Timepieces have always been associated with style.
Josh Sims discovers the background behind this immortal brand and the figures that endorse the epitome of fashion – the Gucci watch.
“They perfectly illustrate the glamour of Gucci’s past but also how this heritage can be relevant today” Frida Giannini
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ne image features a beautiful model, shot in black and white, walking her dogs in the park, her monogram-printed handbag over one shoulder and a matching valise on her other arm. In another image, a chi-chi couple, the man artfully dishevelled, in blazer and loafers, carrying a holdall, walks along a London airport concourse. They are evocative pictures, if run-of-the-mill in the context of today’s fashion and lifestyle brand advertising, with its retro recreations of what we think of now as being the inherently more stylish decades of the past. But look again and those images are not carefully art directed to evoke the past – they are from the past. The woman in the park is the Russian-born model Veruschka – daughter of a Prussian count, a player in Antonioni’s ‘Blow Up’. And the slightly harassed-looking gent not so fresh from a long haul flight, that’s the actor and fellow style icon Peter Sellers – Goon, star of ‘Dr. Strangelove’ and the Pink Panther movies – with his third wife, model Miranda Quarry in 1970. While other shoots try to suggest history, this is history and yet – all fashion comes around – looks as fitting today as it did 40 years ago. Both images are from Gucci’s photographic archive – an enviable collection of stylish snaps needing no enhancements,
no updating – and have been selected as the basis for Gucci Timepieces’ worldwide advertising campaign, running throughout this year. The appeal of the images is two-fold. Firstly, they express Gucci’s history – evidence, if you like, of the height of the brand’s fashionability then as now. As Gucci’s creative director Frida Giannini has put it: “They perfectly illustrate the glamour of Gucci’s past but also how this heritage can be relevant today”. Second is the contrast – between what is to modern eyes the classic chic of these stars of the 60s and the modernity of Gucci’s latest Swiss-made watches, most strikingly perhaps with the I-Gucci, the first digital watch from the brand, launched last year. Minimalistic, tactile – thanks to the rubber strap – and with two simultaneous time-zone displays, it is the kind of watch that Sellers could have used for wherever he is going or has come from. The Veruschka image, meanwhile, features the G-Gucci model, also first released last year, and fittingly a revision of a 1960s design – it is as much jewellery piece as watch, with an inset across the dial from the case forming a letter G. The images may date from a time before Gucci actually began to make watches, in the early 1970s, but together they create a sense that the company has somehow always been one of the world’s largest watch manufacturers and distributors, as it is today. The G-Timeless collection, for example, designed
top right: U-Play Collection bottom left: G-Frame Collection bottom right: Forever Now Advertising Campaign
by Giannini, is a range neither looking backwards nor forwards, but shaped with the contemporary in mind. The pieces are available in different sizes – from the smaller and feminine through to the outsized chronograph model – and using a variety of both materials, with straps in leather, rubber, steel or with the high-gloss metallic PVD coating, and of dials, including black, brushed silver, the fashionable white or perhaps even more fashionable Gucci brown. And, of course, for those who want neither an understated nod to the swinging sixties, nor a sleek piece of space-age functionality, but a little glitz, Gucci provides that too. Take a mother of pearl dial, add 12 diamonds to the dial and 24 diamonds to the bezel and the resulting 27mm model could not be more at home in the G-Timeless range – after all, as the collection’s name suggest, diamonds are forever. Also designed by Frida Giannini is the new U-Play Gucci timepiece – practical and stylish this watch
offers an interchangeable design of components to suit the wearers ever changing moods. With removable bezels available in different tones and materials as well as a choice of sizes boasting straps of black patent leather, beige satin, white Guccissima leather, and blue ostrich skin among others, incompatibility is not an option. Feminine, timeless, fashionable and of course, ingenious, the new U-Play gives the option to be any or all of the above. Despite the consistent delivery of exciting style it is the ‘Forever Now’ campaign that really celebrates the classic chic that Gucci prides itself on delivering with each design. The original black and white photograph of Gucci artisans in Florence’s Via delle Caldaie taken in 1953 is the key stone behind this campaign. Gracing newspaper spreads, lifestyle and business magazines the iconic image draws attention to this world leader of luxury fashion brands and in 2011 celebrates the birthday of Gucci – 90 years young.
dazzles jewellery that
above: salma hayek top right: icon bold collection opposite: jennifer lopez below: bamboo collection
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Craftsmanship and original design have always been synonymous with Gucci Jewellery worn by stars all over the world. Earrings, necklaces or bangles, Josh Sims discovers the iconic ideas behind our favourite Gucci pieces.
hen the likes of Salma Hayek and Jennifer Lopez were on the red carpet at Cannes for a Vanity Fair gala, you can be sure that every stop has been pulled to maximise the glamour, and that includes the traditional sparklers worn at such an event. Indeed, Hayek wore pink gold cocktail earrings and matching ring with morganite centre stone and brown round cut diamonds, while Lopez’s white gold earrings glistened with princess cut white diamonds and cognac topaz. As ever, the press coverage wowed over the spectacularly beautiful items of jewellery. But what perhaps made their choices all the more intriguing, from a design perspective, is that they were created by a company that has a heritage in serious jewellery that is only a little over a decade old. Not the august setters of stones for these ladies – they wore Gucci. Certainly, given the relative youth of the Italian fashion giant’s involvement in high-end jewellery, it has come a long way – its craftsmanship, gemology and stone-cutting has already placed it as a worldclass contender against companies with not only specialist expertise in this field, but a long and respected track record. Gucci has even opened a dedicated high jewellery store, in New York.
So, while Gucci has had a line in silver since the 1960s, what has allowed it to cover so much ground so quickly when it comes to more exclusive pieces? The internationally-known brand-name helps when launching into any new category, of course. It already comes, too, with signature designs that translate well into precious metals and stones. Take, for example, the horse-bit, the decorative detail nodding to Gucci’s equestrian past, found on bags and shoes and now in jewellery, such as the horse-bit bracelet or cocktail rings that use the distinctive shape in multiples to create a stone setting. Nor is the horse-bit alone. Ironically, austerity has ultimately inspired luxury. Gucci’s famed bamboo handle, introduced by Gucci for bags during World War Two as a way of circumventing materials shortages, is now reproduced as a silver, enamel or gold bracelet, with pieces featuring as part of the 2010 collection. The Diamante canvas, with a crisscross diamond pattern created during the 1930s to be woven into hemp and used on luggage – again as a way of combatting leather shortages of the time – is also now found on a ring or bangle in 18kt yellow or white gold.
But perhaps the real reason for Gucci’s success in fine jewellery over the last few years has been its insistence on the use of traditional crafts in its manufacture (entirely by artisans based in northern Italy), without insisting on traditional style. While, for example, the creation of a cast for a ring using the lost wax process (one of several ways a jeweller might create a mould for precious metal) requires eight different craftspeople and seven days of work, the result is still a distinctly modern piece designed to be worn everyday, not locked away for special occasions. Few, of course, would want to do that. True, they may not attract quite the flurry of flashbulbs as Hayek and Lopez in their Gucci jewellery, but at least they will be guaranteed to dazzle those with a sensitivity for fine craft and design.
dragon enter the
Josh Sims speaks to entrepreneur and ‘Dragon’ Peter Jones about opportunities, values and other ‘big’ issues. Finnies the Jeweller
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eter Jones is big. Not just in the media limelight, although his spot on the panel of the BBC’s hit show ‘Dragon’s Den’ has assured him a prime-time TV series in the US, won him book deals and made him the face of BT and other brands. And not just in the bank account department, although the serial entrepreneur is said to be worth getting on for £200m, maybe more. Enough at least, that not even he is sure. “I was always taught never to talk about money but if that’s what you say then that’s fine with me,” he says vaguely, in reply to what is the most vulgar question he must get asked all the time. And he doesn’t mean hundreds of pounds. No, Peter
Jones is big in the physical sense. From his cowboyish boots, to beyond his Dulux-white teeth, he is an imposing 6’7”. He must make an impression when he enters a boardroom. “Only in the sense that I’ve often walked into an office and nearly knocked myself out on a doorframe,” he jokes. “That means a very formal meeting can turn into laughter very quickly, which breaks the ice. So I suppose my height has helped me in business really. People tend to look at me and think either ‘he’s tall’ or ‘freak’.” And people do tend to look at him these days. Jones is quick to admit that being asked to be on TV (financially-speaking, he is by far the Dragon panel’s most successful member) was not only a privilege and an
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opportunity – it gave a businessman unknown outside of business circles the punch to make his charitable Peter Jones Foundation more farreaching that it might otherwise be – but also “one of the biggest ego trips I’ve ever had, but that soon diminishes when you realize you are still the same person,” he says. “In short, I was proud, as were my parents, that TV meant people would get to know the real me.” He continues: “Here was a guy from Maidenhead making it not only in business but on the screen. Seeing myself on TV and realising that I looked about 10 was not so good. But I’ve enjoyed the attention and enjoy it now because it means I’m attached to inspiring people and ideas.” People, indeed, who now constantly stop him in the street with some crazy proposals. It is perhaps one reason for Jones’ success that he seems genuinely ready not to turn down any opportunity for a good deal. “Finding those real light-bulb moments in business is very rare,” as he points out. Here, after all, is a man who saw some value in Reggae Reggae Sauce while other dragons looked dumbfounded – last year it outsold ketchup in the UK. Also, the man who set up a tennis academy when he was 16, then a cocktail bar, then tried to build his own computers – some successes and some that didn’t succeed – before getting a job, building some capital and going it alone again, this time catching an early wave of the mobile telecommunications boom with the launch of Telecoms Company, the business that made him a lot of money. He now has his own private equity company and has investments in over 25 different businesses. “Sure, I think I’ve had a lot of luck. In fact, some people who know me will say it’s all been luck,” he jokes again. “I’ve certainly been a believer in quickly working with people who are better than me at what they do than I could be, which takes the business forward.” But, in Jones’ case at least – and maybe this is true of all major entrepreneurs – there is also immense self-belief. It smacks slightly of a man who has feasted heartily not so much on The Waterside Inn’s fine fare as too many selfhelp books, but Jones’ creed that there is no such thing as failure is passionately put, albeit from the comfort of a tidy fortune. “There is a need to have some edge in
“I’ve certainly been a believer in quickly working with people who are better than me at what they do than I could be, which takes the business forward.”
business, whether it’s an ability to evaluate an idea or a mental attitude,” he says. “But we really have a problem in the UK with an outlook that says ‘can I do it?’ rather than ‘I can do it’. Of course, you have to be ready to accept failure in business but ‘failure’ really is an appalling word. It’s not failure but feedback. Failure is demeaning. It keeps you in a box. Feedback is something you can learn from and take on to your next effort.” A disappointment with the entrepreneurial culture in the UK – with its recent history of being great at generating ground-breaking ideas and rubbish at realising them – is one reason why it was Jones who hectored/assisted government into last year launching a National Enterprise Academy, a chain of business academies – the latest is planned to open in Sheffield in September – with the intention of giving late teens both the vocational skills and the right attitude to go into business for themselves. He’d like them to be starting even earlier, and has in mind a series of children’s books written with a
business slant, all about people he has met in business. “If I wrote about a shopkeeper the character would probably be Mr Green,” Jones suggests, with a wry reference to his friend and owner of much of the British high-street. This somewhat belies the notion that entrepreneurs are gifted individuals destined to make pots of money, own a stable of exotic classic cars and so many houses they lose count – all true for Jones, of course, but not the point. Jones, still a keen tennis-player, cites John McEnroe and the fact that as a teenager he is said to have played just once a week before turning pro. Entrepreneurs are not gifted like that, he says. “You are not born an entrepreneur, you’re made into one. You need the foundation to build on, you need early mentoring [Jones’ father had his own air conditioning and consultancy business], and then to be passionate and determined as well – but that doesn’t make us unusual people.” When you have made money it doesn’t, for example, make you any less cautious with it. That’s why Jones has come up with the idea
of match-funding for when his five children go out into the world: whatever they earn, he’ll double it, unless they work in the charitable sector in which case they’ll get more. “The idea of them just inheriting a load of money terrifies me,” Jones says. “Give an 18-year-old £50,000 and they’d go and do exactly what I would have done – buy a Ferrari. Of course, I’d have been devastated if my dad had come up with the same plan for me...” It is also why Jones pays off his credit cards at the end of the month and called round for the most competitive quote when fitting out one of his houses with new curtains recently. Maybe the more you have strived to make money, the more respect it commands. “I still value money to such a great degree,” says Jones. “My parents are the same. They could live anywhere they wanted now but still live in the family home where I grew up. Sure, I’m successful in one way. I can eat in a nice restaurant with a great chef, I can drive there in a great car – all that. But I don’t take any of it for granted.”
Finnies the Jeweller
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www.chanel.com
29 MM
New model: 29 mm diameter. Watch in white high-tech ceramic. 40 diamonds (est. TCW: 0.90 carat). Mother of pearl dial. 8 diamond indicators.
j12 the new petite face of
Chanel’s J12 watch has always been an icon of style and the latest 29mm dial ensures that small and sleek is most definitely the way forward.
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12’ may be a class in yacht racing, suggesting the watches’ active attitude. And it is even used as a colour code in automotive design, perhaps suggesting the watches’ distinctive lines or the principle of super lightweight bodywork that Chanel borrows from the sportscar industry for its timepieces. But J12 also suggests the highly functional – the tool that transcends the timeliness of fashion. That is something that could be said of much that has come from Chanel. Indeed, the J12 is available in versions of varying degrees of sobriety – from the stripped-down to the bejewelled, with stones requiring up to 350 hours to set; in a spectrum of complexity – from reliable automatics created at Chanel’s Swiss workshops near the watchmaking Mecca of La Chaux de Fonds, through to the calibre 3125, a unique Chanel mechanism developed with Audemars Piguet; with different functions – from a GMT through to a chronograph; and even in different sizes – the J12 being available in four sizes and thicknesses. Most are limited editions. Its elegant but essential exterior provides the heart of the J12’s personality and gives it a pioneering unisex appeal, as chic on a slender wrist as it is sporty on a man’s. More strikingly still is its
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ground-breaking use black or white ceramic, reflecting the light with the glossiness of oil or the opalescence of pearl and giving a graphic and minimalistic style that, while the J12 may come with touches in rubber, steel and precious metals, makes it utterly distinctive. And now style is available in a diameter of 29mm. The Chanel J12 29mm, a celebratory watch of ten years of Chanel J12 was launched at the recent Basel World. Incorporating Chanels classically high tech ceramic and steel materials but taking the design further with a miniature 29mm diameter dial. This petite version of a classic looses none of the features that the original J12 has to offer. A precision quartz movement is paired with eight diamond indexes in either black lacquered or mother-of-pearl while a wrist can sparkle with the option of a diamond encrusted bezel. Featuring the high precision quartz movement that speaks of Chanel quality the 29mm J12 is the ultimate style icon. Certainly its look has ensured that, since it was unveiled a decade ago, the J12 remains among the most originally styled watches to be launched to the market. Of course, being a luxury brand steeped in style, Chanel is also aware of just how well, as its founder put it, “black expresses everything. White too. They are absolutely beautiful, the perfect pair.”
community Finnies the Jewellers – beautiful jewellery, fantastic service and a dedication to helping the Aberdeenshire community.
jewellers
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“We try to focus our help to those who are local to the North East of Scotland and those which will benefit most from our contribution.”
or Peggy Finnie giving back is just part of of the day job. Together with son Matthew Finnie the team have continued to keep their charity work in full focus despite the difficult trading period. “Yes, business has been more difficult this year,” explains Matthew Finnie, “but we have not shied away from our corporate responsibilities,” he continues. Receiving a number of requests weekly to help causes around the area, Matthew often finds it difficult to choose. “It can be disappointing – we would love to help them all and deciding those we can support is never easy,” he reflects. “We try to focus our help to those who are local to the North East of Scotland and those which will benefit most from our contribution.” For the jewellers this contribution takes place in many ways; the company has been involved in countless awards events, fundraisers, charity dinners, donations and sponsors. In the last year alone over 60 different charities have been supported with Matthew working together with his mother Peggy to make the ever-difficult decision process. As well as assisting with Finnies the Jewellers own charitable responsibilities she undertakes a great many unique projects in the local community. As a director of The Manor Project – a scheme to provide accommodation – she, together with husband Ron, recently provided a complete house makeover to some of the tenants. The refurbishment came as a complete surprise to the tenants as they returned home to find their flats with new furniture, carpets and fresh decorating – transforming their homes. This project was financed by Peggy as she took over the Aberdeen City Council charity shop in her very own George Street for a week selling a mixture of goods previously collected. Assisted by volunteers, all close friends joined together with Peggy to raise over £2500. As well as this Peggy and Ron have been keen supporters of the Inchgarth community centre, based in a retired school building in Aberdeen. The centre provides all types of community services and a venue for voluntary groups, as well as providing an inspirational place for people young and old from all different backgrounds to meet.
Finnies the Jeweller
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INDEPENDENCE IS A STATE OF MIND
Noemia Mother-of-pearl dial and Stainless steel case with diamonds Crown with midnight blue dome Sapphire crystal www.raymond-weil.com
community jewellers
The latest addition to the centre is that of ‘Peggy’s Tea Room’ funded by Finnies and a perfect place for people to relax with a cup of tea. Together with Paul O’Connor dedicated volunteers support the project and tea room with the grand opening being launched by Peggy Finnie herself. It may seem like a busy year for Peggy but Matthew explains that this is nothing unusual: “Her ability to enthuse about worthwhile causes is infectious,” he explains, “It is amazing how hard she works to galvanise and create assistance for charities that she believes are worth supporting.” Inevitably Peggy’s hard work has not been unrecognised and Peggy has been honoured with an MBE by the Queen on the 2010 New Honours list. The Finnies team are very proud of Peggy’s achievement, “Many have witnessed her community work which has gone on after the Finnies the Jeweller shop door closes each night,” says Matthew. “Most who know Peggy are grateful for society saying ‘thank you’ to her in this way, for there can be – for a lifetime of her care and consideration of others – no greater recognition.” Peggy will collect her award from the Queen at Buckingham Palace during January 2011 accompanied by husband Ron. It is fair to say that behind this great woman, there is a great man – and of course a great team!
Curteisltd 01
02 01. Hand engraved lockets 02. Elegant Crosses & St Christophers and Earring designs 03. Modern and traditional handmade jewellery 04. Inspired – contemporary gold and silver range 05. Classic and Modern cufflink designs 06. Fashionable Bangles & Torques
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www.curteis.com
ft a gi erish e r h a sh th c l b os e a s o n l ’ u yo this Time iTH Hw C U O in T
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Tissot Lovely Diamonds chosen by Michael Owen – Football Player
Get in touch at www.tissot.ch
chosen by Deepika Padukone – Actress
Introducing Cat Deeley and the Infinity Collection
Finnies the Jeweller
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379 North Deeside Road, Cults, Aberdeen AB15 9SX Tel: 01224 868687 Ballater Road, Aboyne AB34 5HN Tel: 013398 87665 14 Carden Place, Aberdeen AB10 1UR Tel: 01224 632464
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may emerald 1 £1450 2 £980 3 £1065 4 £1399 5 £1560 6 £3175 7 £1250 8 £1950 9 £2199 10 £2150 11 £2025 12 £2785
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august peridot
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november topaz 1
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i nnni ei es s t ht he eJ eJweewl leelrl e r 7 17 1 FFi n
perfect
platinum Rare, beautiful and resilient
Alison Marshall is dazzled by the world’s most precious metal.
W
No other metal used to create jewellery
ith an appealing
be seen today in the Louvre. The Spanish
cool glamour all of
conquistadors and the Indians of pre-
is so rare and difficult to mine. Found in
its own, platinum
Columbian South America also realised this
only a few locations in the world, it is mined
is today’s choice for
stunning metal’s true potential.
predominantly in Russia and South Africa.
jewellery that is as
Charles IV of England commissioned
To produce a single ounce in platinum, ten
a platinum room and, in 1780, King Louis
tonnes of ore must be mined and refined, a
itself. Twenty times rarer than gold and even
XVI of France favoured this precious metal
process that takes eight weeks. In comparison,
more lovely, a strong platinum setting makes
for royal decoration. The screen goddesses
only three tonnes of ore have to be mined to
the perfect partner for fiery diamonds, and
Marilyn Monroe and Jayne Mansfield were
source an ounce of gold – a difference that
will clasp your precious stones tight forever. It
known as the ‘platinum blondes’ of the big
is reflected in the price and exclusivity of the
is little surprise that the world’s most fabulous
screen, and celebrities today such as Nicole
two metals.
diamonds, the Star of Africa and the Koh-i-
Kidman, Catherine Zeta Jones and Jennifer
Noor, are embraced in timelessly dependable
Lopez are reportedly bewitched by this
Europe and its appeal is clear to see. With its
platinum settings.
exquisite metal.
cool brightness, it makes the perfect partner for
enduring as love
Platinum’s tough beauty has been
The UK is the biggest platinum market in
Crafted at the very highest purity levels of a diamond’s white-hot fire. And with fashion
heralded across the world and through time.
any of the precious metals used for jewellery,
loudly applauding white metal, platinum is
As early as 700BC, the ancient Egyptians
all platinum in the UK is hallmarked to show
the must-have ultimate symbol of the rare
mastered the techniques of processing
its quality. Platinum articles are mostly 95
and precious. Whether it’s combined with
platinum. The document casket of the high
per cent pure and it is the purity that gives it
the icy fire of diamonds, sky blue sapphires,
priestess Schepenupet is decorated with
a sensuous blue-whiteness that is exclusively
or romantic red rubies, platinum has all the
ornate hieroglyphics in platinum and can
its own.
attributes for a stunning piece of jewellery.
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Wedding Bands
Eternally Yours The ultimate symbol of devotion, platinum
About Platinum Most couple’s financial considerations
conveys the rarity and brilliance of true love.
revolve around buying a house and a car, but
With its purity of colour and spirit, it makes
in these times of increased travel and global
the ideal gift for any special occasion; from a
awareness, even the home is not the life purchase
symbol of betrothal, a promise of eternity or a
it once was. Taking this into consideration, the
gift to mark a new addition to the family.
rings you buy to celebrate your marriage are
Fashionably cool and sensibly hard
likely to be the most lasting purchases you make
wearing, platinum has become a wise choice
throughout your whole life. Bearing this in mind
for discerning couples of their engagement and
the only answer is to purchase the rings of the
wedding rings, and to celebrate other precious
purest metal – platinum.
moments in their lives together. With its immaculate virtues, platinum
are not afraid to wear and enjoy jewellery,
amazingly durable – even daily wear will not
men have much more choice today than
cause any loss to the metal. In fact, rather than
their fathers did years ago. Today, matching
taking on a scratched appearance over time,
wedding rings don’t have to mean just a
platinum develops its own patina, burnished
complementary engraving inside a gold
with the passing years. If you are investing
wedding band. The coolness and reassuringly
in beautifully cut, fiery white diamonds, you
weighty feel of platinum makes it ideal for
need a setting that not only complements their
creating rings for men. Precious gems for the male are also
to come. Jewellers know it makes sense for you
proving popular – diamonds are now both
to invest in platinum. The price may be higher
a girl’s and her man’s best friend. Favourites
than gold, but platinum is pure and rare,
include brushed platinum bands featuring a
enduringly beautiful and a luxurious classic,
subtle solitaire embedded in the cool metal, or
making it excellent value for money.
a secret diamond hidden inside the band.
With the average couple spending in the
As the most precious metal jewellers
region of £15,000 on their wedding day, It
can offer, platinum’s hot-white good looks
makes sense to focus on the enduring symbols
are as equally suited to classic designs as to
of commitment: the rings. Longer lasting
designer creations. Whether your taste is
than the wedding cake, the flowers, and the
classic or contemporary, ostentatious or subtle,
fashion styles of the time, a platinum ring will
platinum’s perfect attributes combine with any
be the constant reminder of your special day.
precious stone to create stunning jewellery,
Its astonishing strength will ensure that it will
which will be as eternally beautiful and long
hardly alter after years of marriage.
lasting as the reason for the gift itself.
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n Platinum jewellery is the purest jewellery. It is totally skincompatible and never tarnishes or loses its deep white colour.
Platinum’s qualities also appeal to men and now that macho figures in the public eye
will not cause allergy or tarnish. It is also
beauty, but will also hold them safe for years
n Platinum is the best setting for all types and colours of gems. Its brilliant white lustre reflects their true colour and its superior strength holds them securely.
n Platinum is 20 times rarer than gold. It is worked into jewellery by the most skilled craftsmen and is sold by the best jewellers. n Platinum jewellery is beautiful to the touch. It has a silky polished surface and a sensuous, heavier feel and speaks of value, beauty and quality. n Platinum jewellery is eternal. Made to last a lifetime – and even longer – it is extremely resistant to everyday wear and tear. n Platinum jewellery is fashionable and stylish. It combines perfectly with other metals and on its own has a classical look of quality that never goes out of fashion. n Platinum is the metal of choice for perfect moments. Cherished emotions, boundless joy, platinum expresses all these and more.
Thierry Mugler
Womanity Thierry Mugler reinvents the world of luxury perfume by combining the most unexpected ingredients in indulgent doses. His perfectionism makes each bottle a work of art. Womanity is a faceted fragrance whose sides reflect the countless faces of womanhood. The incorporation, for the first time ever, of sweet and salty notes in the composition of a fragrance. First, sweet brightness. Sensuous and dazzling top notes. A fruity-juicy and delicately milky fig note. Comforting. Then the salty insolence of the caviar notes – subtle, troubling, almost animal. With punch and appeal. Finally, the elegance of the woody accord, stemming from fig wood and leaves. Green, sensuous and classy. Fig and caviar: the shock of ingredients.
perfume designs on
I f you have a favourite fashion designer it is often not only their clothes you can wear, but their perfumes too. Take a walk along the catwalk below where we turn the spotlight on a few.
Marc Jacobs
Daisy ‘in the Air’ The original daisy fragrance in a playful limited edition bottle. A sparkling floral scent, fresh and feminine with a touch of whimsy. At the heart of Daisy is a floral with a vintage edge: violet. Daisy opens with the luscious natural freshness of wild strawberry, violet leaves and ruby red grapefruit. The heart of gardenia, violet petals and jasmine petals is a luminous modern vintage. Musk, vanilla infusion and white woods round out the balance of notes with smooth softness and warm sensuality.
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Giorgio Armani
Acqua di Gioia There is a charming sense of jubilation from the very first vegetal notes which are carried along in a deliciously heady current of crushed mint, with a zest of Italian Limone Primo Fiore Femminelle, harvested from the first spring blossoms in Calabria. This emotion transforms into an aquatic renaissance with a delicate and crystalline nature derived from the scent of water jasmine, giving the perfume sophisticated and unexpected facets. At its base, Acqua di Gioia bears the signature of water rooted in the Earth, revealed by luscious cedar sprinkled with sensuous brown sugar and labdanum, which is one of the rare plants to possess animal notes.
gucci
Guilty As the newest edition to Gucci fragrances, Guilty pays homage to the modern day woman’s seductive, strong and independent style with its seamless blend of floral and oriental tones. Opening with a floral harmony of bright citrus and pepper, its aroma forms a tantalizing symphony of scents, inspiring empowerment as well as invoking feminine sexuality. Gucci’s bottle for this alluring scent epitomizes the twenty-first century woman with its sleek, sexy and outspoken design. The heart of the fragrance carries gentle lilac accents encapsulated by blissfully fruity notes while continuing the peppery effect by introducing subtle hints of geranium. The initial floral bouquet gives way to faint whispers of vanilla rounding out in to the perfume’s warm, mellow oriental essence – perfect for the office or a night on the town.
DIOR
J’Adore The incarnation of absolute femininity in an opulent fruity-floral bouquet. J’adore takes flight with a fresh accord of bergamot, opening into a vibrant armful of roses with a delicate jasmine drydown. The sensual, curvaceous lines of its amphora bottle make this a legendary perfume. The top note is ylang ylang, grown in the Comoros archipelago, bringing elegance, volume and originality. The middle note is the classic damask rose and the base note of sambac jasmine is the symbol of soft femininity – jasmine is one of the most commonly used flowers in perfumery.
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perfume, fragrance or scent?
Call it what you will, covering our bodies with a sweet-smelling liquid stretches back to Egyptian times and beyond. Margaret Halliday looks at the development of perfume from then to now.
A
lthough the word perfume comes from the Latin ‘per’ meaning ‘through’ and ‘fumus’, which is ‘smoke’, it was the French who later gave the name ‘parfum’ to the pleasant smells that drift through the air from burning incense, so this can be regarded as the first perfume. Hieroglyphics show that perfume played an important part in the lives of the Egyptians, identifiable as fragranced balms and essential oils, and it is frequently found in tombs and used in embalming. When Tutankhamen’s tomb was opened, there was still a trace of a strong fragrance and that was from 3,300 years ago! Even in the Bible there is frequent mention of fragrance with frankincense, an aromatic resin, perhaps the most well known. However, it is the Greeks who are attributed with the art of making the first liquid perfume, although then perfumes were fragrant powders mixed with heavy oils with no alcoholic base. During the Roman empire the popularity of the public baths resulted in the practice of citizens applying perfume three times a day. Pet dogs and horses were perfumed; at feasts, birds were released from cages to release perfume from their wings. Furnishings were scented and servants wore aromatics. Cleopatra is said to have met Mark Antony on a ship with perfumed sails and that clouds of perfume wafted in front of the assembled throng before her barge came into view. The process of extracting oils from flowers by means of distillation (the procedure most commonly used today) was developed by Avicenna, an Arabian doctor and chemist in the 10th century. Until his discovery, liquid perfumes of oil and crushed herbs or petals made a strong blend. Avicenna first experimented with roses and the resulting delicate rose water immediately became popular. As the ages wore on and international trade routes opened up, the art of making perfume spread throughout the world and as a result different aromatics were added to make new fragrances. In the 17th century, perfume caught on in France where it became associated with sensuaity. But the big advance in perfumery
came in the 18th century, with the creation of eau de Cologne, a blend of rosemary, neroli, bergamot and lemon. The French also adopted the ancient Egyptian art of making perfume containers and created all kinds of fancy perfume bottles, prompted by the opening of the Baccarat glass factory in 1765. One of the French pioneers was Jean Patou, who introduced his famous perfume, Joy, in 1930 – it is known as ‘the costliest perfume in the world’. Possibly the most famous perfume of all time is Chanel No. 5, which was created in 1921. In the later years of the 20th century the perfume industry boomed. In the 1970s white florals and florientals (a combination of florals and orientals) were popular. This was the decade when the USA began to influence the perfume industry. Designer perfumes also started to find prominence – Yves St Laurent introduced Rive Gauche in 1970, still available today, but Mary Quant’s Havoc, launched in 1974, a lighter perfumed body spray for the younger generation, is discontinued. Perfume names are evocative, perhaps none more so than Opium from Yves St Laurent. Launched in 1977 it was considered so controversial at the time that it was nearly banned in the US. In the 1980s power fragrances reflected the mood of the times whereas in the more environmentallyconscious 90s, fresh
ozonic and sweet notes were the preference. Today choice abounds with designer and celebrity perfumes launching with regularity. And contrary to popular belief men’s fragrances (most certainly not known as perfumes or scents) are not a recent innovation – Christian Dior introduced Eau Sauvage as long ago as 1966 – and continue to be a thriving part of this multi-billion industry. It is an industry that is forever seeking new consumers so not only can you find perfumes for children and babies you can also buy them for your cats and dogs – well, it’s only what the Egyptians did, after all!
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TIME FLIES
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Only true connoisseurs of prestige watches will appreciate the quality of Rapport craftsmanship and the originality of Rapport design found in our range of Automatic Watch Winders, Collector Boxes and Watch & Jewellery Portmanteaux
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Planning Your Special Day Wedding
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Finnies the Jeweller
Feature
Planning Your Special Day Wedding
Feature
Planning your
Special Day Finnies the Jewellers witnesses a lot of
engagements – happy couples choosing rings together or customers wishing to surprise their lucky partners. By offering choice and guidance Finnies aims to give the highest level of service for these fiancés and fianceés to be. For future brides and grooms there is nothing more exciting than planning your wedding day, but with so much to think about it’s difficult to know where to start! Fortunately Finnies is at hand and has sourced the best from the local area so that planning your special day is as easy as choosing a ring with us. An excellent starting point is with the ‘Bride’s
Images courtesy of The Studio, Alex Taylor Watts photography
Bible’, the Grampian Wedding Directory which lists all the wedding suppliers in the area. Here you will find everything you need to know about dresses, flowers and anything else wedding related. Featured within are selected suppliers of traditional Highland dress, cars and cakes; we also highlight individuals in the areas of photography and film, and suggest the perfect place to stay local and where to go for your honeymoon destination.
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Planning Your Special Day Wedding
Feature
Grampian Wedding Directory – ‘The Bride’s Bible’ The Grampian Wedding Directory (GWD) is the ‘musthave’ title for brides planning their wedding day. GWD is designed to give brides-to-be a helping hand to shape and deliver their dream wedding and covers all aspects of weddings, throughout the different seasons. As an invaluable source of information, many brides refer to GWD as their ‘bible’. For some it acts as a safety net to ensure no detail is overlooked and that, literally, the icing is on the cake! Being A5-size, GWD is compact and readily stored in a handbag or desk drawer, allowing brides to have it with them, and to refer to it, anytime, anywhere. Beware, however, over its 10 years, GWD has grown considerably in weight, from 56 to 228 pages! With colour photography throughout, GWD’s high quality editorial is divided into six, colour-coded sections, followed by the listing section with over 60 different headings. Published in April and September, each issue of GWD gives brides the opportunity to win prizes worth thousands of pounds. All the competitions are entered online at the GWD website, www.gwd.uk.com, which mirrors the printed directory. GWD also works in partnership with the Your Wedding Exhibition. YWE is held at the AECC in Aberdeen in January every year and is by far the largest wedding exhibition in the north-east of Scotland. GWD and YWE bring together all the key ingredients to a successful wedding. For further information visit www.gwd.uk.com or telephone: 01224 865466. Grampian Wedding Directory, House of Morgan, 479 North Deeside Road, Cults, Aberdeen AB15 9TJ.
Dress in Style the Traditional Way Neil Selbie offers the best service in kilt hire and Highland dress outfits in the north-east of Scotland. Years of experience are brought to bear in ensuring that you look your best for your special event, with a full stock of kilts in over a dozen tartans from some of the best mills and weavers in Scotland, waistcoats and matching tweed jackets, shirts, leather and fur sporrans, belts with celtic buckles, socks and ghillie brogues, and all the necessary accessories. All hires and purchased outfits are fully measured and experienced fitters will guide you through the full Highland outfit experience. A made-to-measure service is also available. For more information visit www.neilselbie.com, email info@neilselbie.com or telephone 01224 735155. Neil Selbie & Co Ltd, The Shop, Station Brae, Peterculter, Aberdeen AB14 0PX.
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“... the best service in kilt hire and Highland dress outfits in the northeast of Scotland.”
Planning Your Special Day Wedding
Feature
Find the Finest Cars at Finesse Finesse Limos has the most impressive fleet of luxury stretch limousines in the northeast of Scotland. Established in 2005, the company has recently invested heavily in a fleet of stunning white vehicles ideal for the wedding market. There are two matching stretch Chrysler C-300 cars and a stretch H2 Hummer just acquired in 2010. The cars are well maintained and comply fully with local council legislation, aimed at making the industry safer. The company is also proud of its loyal group of regular drivers who are continuously and independently vetted. The Chrysler C-300 – the ‘Baby Bentley’ – is one of the finest limousines that has ever been built and features all the luxuries expected from such a prestigious vehicle, a quality limousine as built by ‘Krystal’, the world’s leaders in limousine technology and design. The H3 Hummer has a huge presence and is effortlessly stylish. Each vehicle can carry up to eight of your wedding party or you can have it all to yourself to enjoy refreshments and music en route. The company will be delighted to cater for any extra special requests, to tailor the experience exactly the way you want it on your special day.
The Finesse Limo Company not only operates one of the best maintained fleets in the area, but also prides itself on its courteous and friendly chauffeurs. Choosing Finesse will add a little extra style and grace to your wedding.
For further information visit www.finesselimo.co.uk or telephone 01224 582225. Finesse Limo Company, 27 York Place, Aberdeen AB11 5DH.
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Planning Your Special Day Wedding
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A 5-Star Reception Since opening in December 1993, The Marcliffe Hotel and Spa has played host to countless weddings. Its relaxed elegance and ambience provides one of the best locations in Aberdeen for your special day. Marcliffe has gained worldwide renown as Aberdeen’s only five-star hotel and it has deservedly earned itself membership of the coveted Small Luxury Hotels of the World consortium. Marcliffe’s expert wedding team will tailor your special occasion precisely to suit your needs – even a kilted Scottish piper or pipe band can be arranged. Its gardens and spacious grounds are ideal for photographs and for the wedding function there is a choice of six private banqueting and conference rooms. These charming, individually-decorated suites are perfect for any number of people – from just two to 400! The Spa offers beauty care and therapeutic treatments for both ladies and gentlemen for both before and after the occasion. With 35 rooms and seven suites set up to a luxurious standard, you and your guests can also stay before and after the event. The Marcliffe is set in 11 acres of beautiful wooded grounds on the western fringe of Aberdeen, a setting so romantic and picturesque it is hard to believe that it is only three miles from the city centre.
For further information visit www.marcliffe.com. Telephone: 01224 861000. The Marcliffe Hotel and Spa, North Deeside Road, Pitfodels, Aberdeen AB15 9YA.
“Marcliffe has gained worldwide renown as Aberdeen’s only five-star hotel” 86
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Planning Your Special Day Wedding
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Offering picturesque views and a beach front location, the Beach Ballroom is a unique and romantic venue, the perfect location for your dream wedding. We can cater for small intimate celebrations up to grand weddings, please call the Duty Manager on 01224 647647 or email beachballroom@aberdeencity.gov.uk for more information. 1 1 www.beachballroom.com
01224 647647
beachballroom.com
Photography by Deeside Photographics, www.deesidephoto.co.uk
Beach Ballroom
Have your Cake and Eat it For the ultimate in bespoke wedding cakes Kelly of Cults will create a unique and spectacular centrepiece for your wedding feast. Founded in 1902 by Master Baker, Benjamin Kelly, his principles of quality, value and service are still at the core of the family business today. Everything is made by hand in Kelly’s own bakehouse and many products are still made to old family recipes using only the finest of ingredients. The cakes are baked to order and then passed onto the confectioners to decorate exactly to your specification. The most commonly requested wedding cake filling is the traditional rich dark fruit, but other options are available ranging from sultana (a lighter fruit version) or Genoa cake (sultana with cherries) to Madeira (sponge with jam and cream) or chocolate sponge with chocolate cream. You can even have a tier in each although two or three tiers are the most popular. As for the decoration, Kelly of Cults’ team of confectioners is skilled in all forms of icing and decoration and is only too happy to discuss individual requirements. You can visit the store’s Wedding Cake Parlour to chat with the confectioners, view a range of dummy cakes and browse photographs of previous creations.
For further information contact Kelly of Cults, 345 North Deeside Road, Cults, Aberdeen AB15 9SX. Telephone: 0845 456 1902. The Wedding Cake Parlour is open 8am to 4.30pm Monday to Saturday.
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Planning Your Special Day Wedding
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With this ring ... Finnies the Jewellers know how important weddings are – from the proposal to the anniversary, choosing the correct ring is vital. The friendly and helpful staff at Finnies can assist with your allimportant decision – with over 50 years of experience in the jewellery business, they can offer advice and ideas, whether choosing to propose or choosing together. From a jewellery showroom, with every design and style imaginable, to private and romantic ring rooms perfect for selecting your engagement ring, Finnies are well-practised at helping you make your choice. Take your time, as you decide from the stunning collection of rings available. As well as a large collection of styles in store, bespoke and individual rings can also be made by Finnies – choose your own setting, stones and style as our skilled craftsmen create your dream ring. Discuss with the sales assistants your perfect ring, as they show you a range of mounts to make your ring bespoke to you. Whether single stone, three stone or something more unusual, like Finnies Italian mounts, decide on style and shape – then choose your preferred metal: classic yellow gold, white gold or platinum. Learn about the ‘four Cs’: Cut, Carat Weight, Colour and Clarity, as you select your diamonds, and be filled with the ‘fifth C’ – confidence – as your ring is handcrafted by the Finnies setter. Keep in touch as your ring goes through the process of being completed, and make any last-minute adjustments. Finally, have a lastminute clean, to really add sparkle to the big day. Whether for engagement rings, wedding bands or future eternity rings, this bespoke service is available to you. In addition, for added peace of mind, one year’s complimentary insurance, along with a yearly check and clean, is available for all engagement rings. Gifts and presents are also available at Finnies, with bridesmaid and groomsmen gifts also displayed in store. Whether popping in for a look, taking time over your purchase or having your ring sized, Finnies’ trained and qualified staff are delighted to assist you.
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Planning Your Special Day Wedding
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A Photographic Storybook of your Day Professional wedding and portrait photographer Simon Clubb is one of Scotland’s best. Over the years he has won numerous awards for his unique and innovative images and he has also been a recipient of the coveted title of Scottish Classical Wedding Photographer of the Year and Scottish Portrait Photographer of the Year. Simon Clubb Photography is a young and vibrant company producing creative ideas to suit the fashionable nature of wedding photography in today’s market. Each wedding commission is personally undertaken by Simon, from the very first meeting to the photography itself. Simon recognises that a wedding day is all about enjoyment and believes that the success of his photography is due to his ability to put at ease even the most camera-shy subjects. His friendly and relaxed approach to dealing with people helps all his subjects to enjoy the experience from start to finish and, more importantly, this allows them to look radiant and true to their own personality in the photographs he takes. Simon will create a truly wonderful storybook of your day – each individual album is designed personally and is beautifully presented, using the latest technology to create a stunning finished contemporary album. Simon believes that it is a privilege to create images that will evoke great memories forever. His 19 years of experience, awards and countless commendations as well as membership to the Master Photographers Association are your assurance of quality. He will create a lasting record of your day that will bring joy to all who share his wonderful images.
For further information please visit www.simonclubb.com or telephone 01224 585158. Simon Clubb Photography, 144 Crown St, Aberdeen AB11 6HS.
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Destinations for Love “There is only one happiness in life, to love and to be loved.”
Duncan’s Travel has to be your first port of call for booking your honeymoon or overseas wedding as this is what they really love to do. It will be the most memorable holiday of your life, so make it extra special and stress free by letting their knowledgeable staff take care of the arrangements. Established in 1975, you can book with complete peace of mind knowing that Duncan’s Travel is fully bonded and licensed with ABTA and IATA. They are also a member of the Advantage Consortium which gives them access to competitively priced holidays while still remaining completely independent. There are so many fantastic destinations to choose from, whether it’s for the romance of Rome, the passion of Paris, the delights of Dubai or the magic of Mauritius, rest assured Duncan’s Travel can organise them all. Your desire may be a tailor-made Honeymoon or Wedding – if so, let their staff know what you really wish for and they’ll get started immediately on making your dream come true! Private appointments can also be made. As an idea for your wedding gift list, Duncan’s Travel can even arrange gift vouchers so that your wedding guests can contribute towards making your holiday a perfect start to your life together. For more information please visit: Duncan’s Travel, 387a North Deeside Road, Cults, Aberdeen AB15 9SX. Telephone: 01224 861959. www.duncanstravel.com
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Planning Your Special Day Wedding
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Relive your Wedding Day on DVD & Blu-ray Your wedding day is a day that you will have planned and dreamt about more than any other and one that you will want to remember for the rest of your life. A professionally produced DVD and high definition Blu-ray film allows you to capture all the emotion, excitement and atmosphere of your special day, forever. With 20 years’ experience and seven national awards, Mark Stuart is one of Scotlands’s most experienced and sought after Wedding Film Makers. His wedding DVDs have been ranked by the Institute of Videography in the top five of the UK’s best Wedding Day Films for six consecutive years, giving you peace of mind knowing that the responsibility of filming your day is in safe hands. Mark’s shooting style is highly unobtrusive and candid. He will capture your day as it unfolds naturally without you having to perform for the camera. Mark’s goal with every film is to tell the story of the day in a way that portrays the people, details and settings in the most complimentary and appealing way. High-quality, exciting and moving wedding films are watched over and over again and have an emotional impact on the viewer that words cannot describe. Mark Stuart Wedding Films will deliver a DVD that you will be proud to share and enjoy with your family and friends for many years to come. For more information and to view samples, please visit www.ms-films.co.uk or telephone 01224 314999 or 07720 891784. Mark Stuart Wedding Films, 15 Springfield Road, Aberdeen AB15 7RU.
High Definition Blu-ray discs are now available in addition to DVD discs supplied as standard. MASTER MEMBER
INSTITUTE OF VIDEOGRAPHY
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EBEL BRASILIA
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Explore ExploreEdinburgh Edinburgh with withour ourRoyal Royal Package Package Includes Includes entry entry into into thethe Royal Royal Yacht Yacht Britannia, Britannia, The The Palace Palace ofof Holyrood, Holyrood, and and Edinburgh Edinburgh Castle, Castle, bed bed and and breakfast breakfast forfor two two nights, nights, and and aa three three course course meal meal in in ourour award award winning winning restaurant. restaurant. It also It also provides provides you you with with aa two two day day bus bus pass, pass, allowing allowing access access around around thethe city city and and anan ideal ideal sightseeing sightseeing tour tour forfor allall weathers. weathers.
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ForFor more more information information visit visit www.therutlandhotel.com www.therutlandhotel.com
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GOLDEN YEAR
FOR THE RUTLAND The Rutland in Edinburgh’s West End was nominated Boutique Hotel of the Year 2010 at the Scottish Hotel Awards, with its head chef and innovative wine list also scooping gold awards.
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he Rutland is the vision of brothers Nic and Garreth Wood of Signature Pub Group, whose aim is to bring something unique and exciting to the capital’s social scene. The prominent Georgian building houses the city’s newest and multi-award-winning boutique hotel, a style bar and The Restaurant at The Rutland. The hotel houses 12 bespoke, en-suite bedrooms which blend the baroque with the ultra modern in style. Selected rooms offer unmatched views of the entire length of Princes Street and Edinburgh Castle. Nic Wood worked with interior designers Tibbatts Kirk Abel to develop The Rutland’s look, travelling extensively to seek pieces of furniture that are functional while making a statement. Most of the hotel’s sumptuous, modern furnishings have been personally sourced by Nic. The decadent, yet elegant, reception area features statement pieces such as Posh’n’Becks-style gigantic armchairs sourced from around the world. Combining views of Edinburgh Castle and along all Princes Street to Calton Hill with lavish interiors of red and black, The Restaurant at The Rutland is one of the most dramatic dining settings in Edinburgh. The restaurant can seat up to 100 people. Award-winning head chef David Haetzman personally selects the best local
suppliers for the restaurant and creates the tempting brasserie-style menu. His style of cooking is light and modern, influenced by Mediterranean cuisine and making the most of seasonally available, fresh Scottish produce. All dishes are freshly prepared in-house. The Restaurant at The Rutland offers a business lunch menu and a pre-theatre menu alongside the à la carte lunch and dinner
menus that change with the seasons. The restaurant is complemented by an impressive walk-in wine cellar and the extensive wine list (recognised with an award for its innovation) includes a wide selection of Old and New World wines. For something less formal the stunning open plan, ground floor bar is the perfect
place to be seen during the day or at night. True to the Signature Pub Group’s ethos of combining substance with style, the drinks’ offering is exceptional with a wide selection of wines, luxury brand liqueurs and spirits, speciality beers and seasonally changing cocktails. By day, a relaxed bar food menu is served alongside soft drinks, including freshly squeezed fruit juices, fine coffees and Eteaket teas. The Rutland is also home to the UK’s first interactive, touchsensitive ‘iBar’ in its late-night venue, The One Below (the bar’s surface is touch sensitive and reacts to objects being placed on it), ensuring The One Below is fast becoming the most talked about bar in Edinburgh. The three latest awards bring The Rutland’s tally to a grand total of 14 in just two years. Nic and his brother Graham, owner of The Chester Residence in Edinburgh, were also jointly awarded Entrepreneur of the Year in recognition of their success. For more information visit www.therutlandhotel.com The Rutland, 1-3 Rutland Street, Edinburgh. Tel: 0131 229 3402.
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Aberdeen’s Premier Hair & Beauty Salon
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spiro Estetica is Aberdeen’s premier hair and beauty salon, conveniently located in the heart of the city, on Schoolhill, next to The Bon Accord Shopping Centre.
Experts in hair design, our team of experienced stylists and assistants are on hand to ensure our clients benefit from cutting-edge hair-styling techniques. At Ispiro Estetica we work closely with our clients to create a hairstyle that reflects their individual personality, suits their lifestyle and meets their needs. We pride ourselves on giving our clients the kind of hair that looks great everyday, by passing on industry tips and advising about the very best products to maintain their look from haircare ranges such as Wella ®, Paul Mitchell ®, and GHD ®. This attention to detail ensures our clients return time after time and has earned the salon a reputation for creativity and excellent service.
Whether you seek a precision cut, custom colour, hair extensions, the perfect curl, nourishing treatments, permanent relaxer or a gorgeous up-do, from the moment you enter our 5-star salon you will feel at ease and be confident that you are in the very best of hands.
Professional 1 Hour Laser Teeth Whitening
DENTAWHITE
Nieve Jennings, Miss Scotland
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Full Procedure £299
Call today on 0800 458 9498 www.denta-white.co.uk
Established Aberdeen hair & beauty salon, highly experienced in all aspects of hairdressing and beauty treatments
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The salon’s not just about fabulous hair, although it is a great place to start! At Ispiro Estetica we are just as committed to beauty, and the second floor of our salon is dedicated to providing indulgent face, body and nail treatments in relaxing, comfortable surroundings. Our talented therapists offer a full range of specialist treatments using products from Collin ®, OPI ® and St.Tropez ®. Treat yourself to a manicure, pedicure, facial or massage, or choose from one of our other treatments. For top-to-toe glamour why not try one of our indulgent pamper packages and combine your favourite treatment with make-up and hairstyling? For that special occasion, such as a wedding or other big event, we can provide our services to you in our lively salon, in the comfort of your own home or at the location of your choice. Please get in touch to find out how we can tailor our services to make your day run as smoothly as possible.
Together with our partners Denta-White, our clients can now benefit from professional teethwhitening for a brighter smile, or we can recommend a variety of specialist non-surgical/surgical treatments from Aesthetics Aberdeen. Just ask your therapist about these services next time you visit the salon. We look forward to warmly welcoming you to Ispiro Estetica very soon.
28/07/2008 16:09:27
Non-surgical/surgical treatments Dermal Fillers
Youngblood Cosmetics
Chemical Peels
Laser Skin Rejuvenation
Micro Dermabrasion
Advanced Vaser Lipolysis
Tattoo Removal
Fine Line and Wrinkle Reduction
Pigmentation Laser Hair Removal Laser Acne Treatment Skin Surgery
Thread Vein Treatment Blepharoplasty Otoplasty
Mini Face Lifts
www.aetheticsaberdeen.co.uk 4 Schoolhill Aberdeen AB10 1JX T: 01224 641 999 (4th floor Ispiro Estetica)
4 Schoolhill Aberdeen AB10 1JX 01224 641 999
www.ispiro.co.uk
Cashmere Heritage Centre, Clothing, Coffee Shop, Food Hall, and Free Guided Mill Tours
Made In Scotland www.johnstonscashmere.com
Johnstons of Elgin Newmill Elgin IV30 4AF 01343 554099
Elgin
St. Andrews Corbridge
cashmere touch
For over two centuries Johnstons of Elgin has woven, spun and dyed the finest lambswool and cashmere. Indulgent and beautifully soft, this luxurious fabric is desired on a worldwide scale.
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“Johnstons is the cashmere provider of choice for some of the world’s most exclusive fashion houses.”
ashmere – traditional yet stylish; one company has always been at forefront of the creation of this beautiful material. Founded in 1797 Johnstons of Elgin still stands on the banks of the River Lossie in Moray with a second base in Hawick. Originally started by Alexander Johnston, he handed the company down to his sons until it was passed out of the family just after the First World War. It was then that Edward Harrison took over, keeping the Johnston name but focusing on the production of cloth and lightweight material. The company continued to expand as Edward exported scarves to America and took over other companies. By the beginning of the 21st century Johnstons of Elgin had become one of the most well known knitting and weaving companies in the world. Today the company is passionate about the cashmere that it produces – ethically produced to a high standard, Johnstons work together with Mongolian farmers to source high quality cashmere with herd sustainability a key initiative of the company. Although sourced from Mongolia, China, Australia and New Zealand the company is extremely proud of its Scottish roots with the weaving and manufacturing processes taking place in the highlands as well as the Scottish borders. A high quality luxurious product, Group Managing Director James Dracup is serious about the production of authentic cashmere: “Quality control is all important. We test all our raw cashmere to meet exacting specifications because all our customers want consistency,” he says. “Cashmere
is something to be cherished, like a diamond. If it has the slightest flaw it is not of the same value to the discerning buyer who is looking for something with a longevity and ultimate beauty.” And as always producing the highest quality cashmere really is Johnstons’ trademark. As well as the promise to offer the highest quality material, the company also prides itself on excelling in other areas. Meeting the trends is equally as important – with their team of designers producing classic and contemporary looks the group is now a figurehead of fashion. As well as its own collections Johnstons is the cashmere provider of choice for some of the world’s most exclusive fashion houses. These luxury brands appreciate the traditional production and authentic background that Johnstons provides and are proud to support British manufacturers. Still producing the very best cashmere in Elgin, Johnstons invite customers to visit and feel the luxury for themselves. From hand-combed raw material to finished product, the Johnstons knowledgeable guides take visitors through each of the stages including watching the product being dyed, teased, spun and hand finished by Johnstons’ skilled craftsmen. They also welcome customers to Elgin to peruse the shop for the latest in luxury designs, to settle back to reflect on the history of this Scottish brand in the coffee shop or purchase Johnstons’ cashmere, lambswool or tweed at their St Andrews and Corbridge branches. For more information about Johnstons of Elgin visit www.johnstonscashmere.com
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imperiale standards
For Chopard, high quality precision time-pieces are somewhat of a strength.
J osh Sims tells the story behind the new Imperiale watch line and supposes that if Anthony had given Cleopatra a watch, the Imperiale would have been it.
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mperiale may seem a rather grand name for a new watch line but perhaps Chopard can be forgiven for the exuberance around its fresh interpretations of the women’s model it first launched in 1994. After all, this year sees the 150th birthday of a company established by the equally memorably-named Louis-Ulysse – one who quickly established a reputation for making precision time-pieces that, after almost a century of business, found new life in 1963 when Karl Scheufele bought and revived it. And, besides, this is a company that has made its often highly-decorated watches for the Tsar of Russia, who over the early years of the 20th century became a loyal customer. Indeed, the latest incarnation of the Imperiale line does have something of an imperial bearing, and takes its design cues from the imperial age, with all its pomp and splendour. Its case, for example, its sculptural in shape, with its lugs echoing the columns of classical architecture – with amethyst briolette-cut cabochons for the 18ct rose gold version and blue sapphires for the 18ct white gold one, each stone giving a hint of the royal purple worn by Roman emperors – not only as a badge of their rank but because the dye was drawn from the rare murex shell, making such textiles especially expensive; its crown, similarly, is embedded with a facetted amethyst and shaped like a lotus flower, a symbol of purity - which at least hints at the way the imperial elites have liked to think of themselves, if not exactly reflecting the realities of imperial power. Other details add to the story too. The Imperiale’s dial is mother-of-peal – and styled to suggest the embroidered cushions onto which imperial families would place the insignia of their station; the numerals are Roman, of course; and even its hands are shaped like tapered daggers – hinting perhaps at the insecurity and intrigue of court life... All add up to create a watch that, were watches around at the time of Anthony, would have made a fitting choice for Cleopatra, of a gift of Napoleon to Josephine, with a wide variety of options – some 18 in all, the case in steel, rose or white gold and in two sizes (36mm and 40mm), metal bracelet or leather
strap (with a selection of colours), the movement quartz, mechanical automatic or chronograph. It is water-resistant to 50 meters. The Imperiale name might also be said to be suitable for the history of the company, more specifically the dynasty that is growing behind Chopard. That applies both to its origins and its later years. It was Chopard’s father Felicien who, although a farmer – and who, with other agricultural workers, was hired by local watch companies to assemble movement blanks over the winter – encouraged him to learn the watchmaker’s trade. Chopard’s son, Paul-Louis, took over after him, and his son, Paul-Andre in turn. And now Scheufele – the son of a watchmaker, and the pioneer of small but highly-detailed jewellery and watch style himself – sees his own son and daughter, Karl-Friedrich and Caroline, also become co-presidents of the company. The former, a trained goldsmith and watchmaker, oversees the men’s division and the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, while Caroline, a gemmologist, takes charge of design and the brand’s jewellery pieces. The reinvention of the Imperiale line has been her project. That family approach is also reflected in the nature of Chopard products – a rarity in the watch industry now, nearly all parts are made in-house, including the creation of its own calibres and right down to producing its own gold alloys. And in keeping with the family spirit, it also has its own internal training division, each year taking on 25 apprentice watchmakers and jewellers on a four year course. They learn their skills within the design traditions of Art Deco and Art Nouveau, both of which have had a considerable impact on the sensuous aesthetic so characteristic of Chopard and captured in its most famous models, among them Happy Diamonds and Happy Sport. And to these may well be added the new Imperiale.
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seas watching the
Going back to the depths, Josh Sims takes a look at pollution-conscious brand IWC’s homage to the pioneering voyages of Portugal and its seafaring traditions.
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omewhere in the Pacific, ecology campaigner David de Rothschild sailed his Plastiki yacht – a vessel made of plastic bottles – through the Great Eastern Garbage Patch, an area of discarded plastic refuse estimated to be the size of Texas. An official partner of the awareness-raising adventure is IWC, a company whose impressive green credentials include a long-standing relationship with Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Ocean Futures Society, as well as being the first and so far only certified carbon neutral watch brand, a title it has held since 2007. It even subsidises its employees’ public transport costs or pays them to drive a car with reduced emissions. But the oceanic association is also timely for the company given its watch-making history – this year sees a celebration of its 80-year-old Portuguese line, a homage to Portugal’s seafaring tradition, originating in the pioneering voyages of Vasco de Gama, Fernando Magellan and Bartolomeu Dias and leading in 1939 to the commission of IWC by
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two importers in Lisbon and Porto of the first two Portuguese models – oversized precision timepieces with pocket-watch movements in the spirit of nautical instruments and, for the times, a radical departure for watch design. Indeed, it prompted new consideration to the functionality and reliability of any timepiece that has to work amid the extreme conditions often found at sea. Take, for example, just one of the newly re-imagined line, IWC’s Yacht Club, a classic of the 60s and 70s and now relaunched as a chronograph sports watch with IWC’s own 89360-calibre movement. There is its water-resistance to 6 bar, its screw-down crown and crown protection and an analogue display that allows, for navigation purposes, the measurement of long stop times up to 12 hours, a flyback function that instantly resets the second hand to begin new timings and, just as important at sea, a dial arrangement that allows the elapsed time to be as easily read as the time itself. It is perhaps an admission that utility must sometimes trump elegance as, for the first time, IWC has given a Yacht Club model luminescent indices and hands.
But for those who prefer to keep their feet firmly on dry land, the Portuguese relaunch also sees the introduction of some interesting complications. Among them is the more everyday Portuguese Chronograph, a mid-sized design, and a revamped Portuguese Automatic, with seven-day power reserve and now in red gold. Alongside these are the more connoisseur pieces, such as the Tourbillon Mystere Retrograde, a new model to the series, and the Portuguese Minute Repeater, a hunter style with a distinctive chime. The Portuguese Grande Complication, meanwhile, comes with a red gold case and silver-plated dial, behind which is a mechanism housing a minute repeater, and the production is limited to just 500 pieces. Also the Portuguese Perpetual Calender – with an autonomous perpetual calendar with year display, countdown to the next full moon and a twohemisphere moon phase display, for both the northern and southern hemispheres, of record-breaking accuracy. But perhaps the most unexpected of the new offerings is also in some senses the simplest: the Hand-Wound, with a 98295
calibre movement, one version with black dial and another with a silver-plated one, with both reflecting the trend for coloured markers (in this case a ‘60’ mark in red). As Christian Knoop, IWC’s creative director notes, automatic watches have become so standard, hand-wound now seems exotic and strangely innovative. “We’re so used to the convenience of automatics that hand-wounds will always be collectors’ pieces, for those who appreciate the difference between movements,” he says. Knoop adds that there are several reasons why now may be the right time for the revival of the hand-wound (and IWC is not alone in launching a hand-wound model in recent months). The power reserve of hand-wound movements has improved considerably, so wearers are not frequently having to wind up their watches. More advanced hand-wound movements will even outlast many automatics now. There are design benefits too: the absence of a rotor, by which an automatic movement self-winds, means the detail of the movement can be more clearly and beautifully rendered, making a crystal back as important as the one over the dial. It also allows the
watch case to be that much thinner. Often a top-notch hand-wound movement is actually more expensive to produce than an automatic one. “Sometimes a more striking look can be achieved when you take away rather than add,” says Knoop. And with the economic crisis calling for a more restrained, less exuberant approach to watch design, “the handwound fits the spirit of the times. Besides which, it is a way of buying into history”. Certainly, in an age in which the time can be found on every mobile phone, watches are arguably no longer just about telling the time, but more than that: accessing heritage and craftsmanship on a more intimate level. That may not be a seafarer’s concern as winds climb the Beaufort scale, but it counts with us land-lubbers.
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skyhawk The flight of the
With a motto of ‘eclat’ (French for brilliance) it is no surprise
that the Red Arrows’ aerobatic display team has paired with the award-winning watchmaker Citizen.
Josh Sims reveals all the tricks behind the new Citizen Red Arrows’ watch collection.
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he relationship between wristwatches and pilots has been a long one – not only have they at times been regarded as essential navigation tools, but the very first wristwatch was created specifically for a pioneering flyer. But an association with one of the world’s most famous aerobatic teams takes any watch to new heights, which is what Citizen brings with its Red Arrows’ collection of watches. Indeed, these models are a homage to the skills of the Royal Air Force Aerobatic Team and a celebration of this year being its 45th birthday – as well as offering highly functional timepieces of advanced precision in keeping with the so-called Diamond Nine’s breathtaking appreciation for the same. Take, for example, the Red Arrows Chronograph. It has a 1/5 second time measurement, 12/24-hour time and water resistance to 100 metres, but also a graphic device that nods to the Red Arrows’ iconic red BaE Hawk aircraft – represented at the tip of the second hand. Other models in the collection become part of the Red Arrows’ world just as much through their impressive specs. The Red Arrows pilot’s watch has a design devised for maximum legibility in the air, including non-reflective glass and oversized luminous markers, together with dual time and a slide rule ring for professional flight use. And the Red Arrows’ Skyhawk
A-T, similarly, has a 1/100 second chronograph – a split second attitude for split second manoeuvres – as well as characteristics beloved more of watch connoisseurs, such as a perpetual calendar, GMT calendar, power reserve display, world time function and alarm. More impressive still perhaps is its distinctive technology: this watch has both atomic timekeeping, picking up radio signals from atomic clocks that then adjust the time read-out for maximum accuracy, as well as Citizen’s unique Eco-Drive technology. Thin discs of amorphous silicon under the dial allow for the low maintenance conversion of light, be that sunlight or artificial light, into energy, stored in a super-efficient cell and used to power the quartz movement. It is arguably a suitable step on for the watch industry to warrant use of the Red Arrows’ motto, ‘eclat’, a French word meaning both ‘excellence’ and ‘brilliance’, each definition being apt for the always jawdropping display team. These are pilots, after all, that push their skills and bodies to the very limits – to forces of 7G. After 8G their aircraft need to be checked over with a fine tooth comb before flying again. Like today’s knowledgeable watch consumer, they expect their machines not to let them down even at the extremes of operation and Citizen’s impressive 5 year guarantee ensures that confidence is definitely something that can be relied upon.
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sea
under the
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Finnies the Jeweller
Josh Sims plumbs the depths with Breitling’s latest SuperOcean.
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any watches have glamorous, boys’ own associations. But few can claim to have been selected as official equipment by the Navy Seals, the US’s answer to the SAS. That Breitling’s SuperOcean was perhaps the inevitable choice was decided by the fact that it was watertight to a depth of 200m. This was back in 1957 when that was some feat. But the design was as appealing as the engineering: the diving watch was strong, being made from a one-piece case with the movement cased from the top for added protection. It had an armoured crystal glass. The luminescent hands and oversized hour markers were especially distinct set against their black background. And the bezel’s locking device meant that a potentially fatal misreading of time elapsed (and hence the air in your gas tank) was highly improbable. Such functionality made it an ideal piece of kit for elite special forces. But it was evidence of Breitling’s determination to make a best-in-class product that the SuperOcean was in part inspired simply by the fact that a reduced working week was encouraging the take-up of water sports. Of course, deep-sea diving and underwater exploration were also taking off. But when Willy Breitling celebrated his 25th year in charge of the company by deciding it should branch into watches for the waterborne after its success in building a reputation for watches for those who were airborne, perhaps even he had not foreseen that the government would also be buying into his new class of specialist timepiece; one, indeed, that Breitling was quick to build on with the launch of the TransOcean, a shockproof, self-winding certified chronometer that capitalised on the company’s aviation expertise. Jump forward over half a century and the SuperOcean line remains, if considerably more advanced. As impressive as 200m may have been back then, now water
resistance to the depths of 500m or much more is not only possible but typical of diving pieces. And the esteemed line’s latest incarnation – revamped in the guise of the new SuperOcean – goes really deep, to a staggering 1,500m, certainly a depth only ever likely to be seen by diving professionals. In fact, going way, way down has become as much a speciality of Breitling’s as going way, way up: its world-class Avenger Seawolf model even works at 3,000m below the surface... A further, necessary engineering advance for the new SuperOcean includes a decompression valve that serves to balance out the differences in pressure inside and
But for all that the SuperOcean meets professional standards, Breitling has also recognised that most owners will probably not be straying too far from the pool on holiday and so have also placed emphasis on designing a handsome watch too. The bezel, for example, is coated in black rubber, a stylish touch that, just like its knurled edge, also enhances its grip. There is a rubber wristband too, complete with perforations reminiscent of straps designed for racing drivers of the 1960s – just one of three straps the model comes with, including a second rubber strap for professional diving purposes, also with a push-button clasp and a folding mechanism to allow a precise fit, and a
“Other touches include Superluminova-coated numerals for maximum glow in the dark, and a sapphire crystal glass which has been glare-proofed on both sides to ensure maximum legibility in even the poorest light conditions.” outside of the watch – effectively to prevent the mechanism suffering the horological equivalent of ‘the bends’ and necessary, given the depths to which the latest generation of the watch can descend. When the internal pressure reaches three bars, the valve releases the helium stored inside the watch after diving at such depths. It’s worth it – without it the watch would explode. And that’s even with a 42mm case made from a saline corrosion-resistant steel alloy. Other touches include SuperLumiNova®-coated numerals for maximum glow in the dark, and a sapphire crystal glass which has been glare-proofed on both sides to ensure maximum legibility in even the poorest light conditions. And under the hood there is the Caliber 17 self-winding, Swissmade movement, one of Breitling’s most successful, sturdy and accurate, such that the details of its design remain something of a company secret.
bracelet for those after a dressier look. And in keeping with current trends in watch design for a splash of colour, the SuperOcean is also available in a spectrum of shades – yellow, red and blue, as well as the more classic silver or black – adorning the beveled inner bezel ring, as well as a touch at the tip of the second hand. As if the look of the watch didn’t make its underseaworthiness self-evident, Breitling has even decided to give the colours their own names, prefixing each of them with the word ‘abyss’. These are deep-sea hues. As for those Navy SEALS, they have stuck with Breitling for the last 50 years too. In fact, in 1995 the force even approached the company to devise a special watch to its exact specifications, and the Colt SuperOcean – one of the Aeromarine family – was created. The new SuperOcean holds to the same design integrity and pedigree. And if you hadn’t already figured this out, yes, you can wear it in the shower.
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racing for time
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Dutch watch brand TW Steel unveils its
fficial timing partner to the Renault Formula 1 Team from 2010 to the end of the 2012 season, TW Steel celebrates Renault’s aviation roots and the origins of the first oversized watches with its latest collection. The new Renault F1 Team Pilot is a watch with big ambitions, while the Renault F1 Team CEO Tech embraces the team’s fame as a world championship winner. Both watches are available in four models while each collection offers a unique style and quality mechanisms that only TW Steel can offer. To honor Renault’s background in the aviation industry the Renault F1 Team Pilot utilises the Pilot watch’s ‘big face’ design to full capacity. Featuring a three hand, big calibre movement on a black face this watch is a perfect pilot’s timepiece. All watches in this collection feature the Renault F1 Team logo while two of the range, the TW672 and the TW673, use a chronographic movement and a hardened mineral crystal. As well as this both feature black leather straps with the signature two dots logo. TW Steel’s chief design officer Ton Cobelens is extremely happy with the latest design: “I was fascinated with Renault’s background in aviation and we developed the Pilot models from this research,” he explains. “Pilot watches were known for being oversized with bold, easy-to-read
latest ‘Renault F1 Team’ collection to celebrate the brand’s association with the world championship racing team. faces to ensure greater visibility at all times. We’ve developed this concept with the use of big numbers clearly visible in both the day and night.” For the Renault F1 Team CEO Tech, TW Steel have dedicated this area of the collection to the success that Renault has had with Formula 1, “we wanted to offer something that reflected more of the prestige associated with both Formula One and these watches purposefully mirror the values, by offering a more elaborate watch very much in keeping with the lifestyle associated with the sport,” confirms Cobelens. Again available in four executions each watch signifies the luxurious but intense feeling behind the sport. Both the TW680 and the TW681 measure and display time to 1/20th of a second within the chronograph movement. Cased in steel with real sapphire crystal and a flexible silicon rubber strap these watches are the ultimate signature of a championship watch. For the TW682 and TW683 editions the chronograph movement is paired with a black PVD case plating while the final touches to crown and screws on the bezel are gold plated. For added confidence all of the Renault F1 Team CEO Tech watches are water resistant to 10 metres. “This was an exciting project for me and I’m pleased that we have a collection that reflects both the best of TW Steel and the Renault F1 Team,” states Cobelens. “We’re offering the consumer a strong, distinctive looking watch with its roots planted firmly in Renault’s illustrious history.”
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cake let them eat
Josh Sims speaks to Christophe Michalak about his cake creations.
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hristophe Michalak has perhaps the ideal two excuses for eating cakes all day. “I think my first memory of eating cake was at the age of six when I really took to flan. In fact I’ve always been crazy about sweets, especially chocolate, and not really about savoury things. It’s why I run every day,” he says. “But friends say I’m the only person they know who can get away with it. And then I’m slightly hypo-glycaemic so I need the sugar. If I do any kind of sport I have to have a chocolate bar first...” Whether his minor medical condition, nor even the tinned food he says he grew up on, is sufficient excuse for becoming a star pâtissier – winner at age 30 of the biennial Coup de Monde de la Pâtisserie, the World Pastry Cup, now at age 35 the three-Michelin-star pâtissier at the acclaimed Paris Plaza Athénée, where he oversees some 22 pastry chefs and consults for the likes of Valrhona and Imbert – is another question. His CV has taken him via the Park Lane Hilton in London, the Brussels Hilton, the opening of a pâtisserie school in Kobe for Niçois Gregory Collet, and a shop for pâtissier great Pierre Hermé in New York. He was working as a sous-chef at the Ladurée Salon de Thé in Paris when he heard that Alain Ducasse was seeking a chef-pâtissier. Michalak got the job. Small wonder – he is very particular. “I really only like making the types of pastries that I like to eat,” he says, “and which I think are easy to eat. I don’t like mille-feuille for example, because when you cut it the cream spills out everywhere. We do that but we turn it on its side so that the cream stays inside the pastry. I don’t like little pastries either – eating them is just too complicated. I’d rather have a larger cake that can be cut into slices, big or small depending on what you like. And the bigger the cake the easier it is to control the flavour – they mature like wine.” Practicality may not be the only unexpected trait that Michalak assigns to a good cake. Style and panache is equally important, with pastry perhaps the apotheosis of the idea that we eat first with our eyes. Not every cake must be an extravaganza – he sees equal validity in updating the perhaps out of fashion classics, taking a religieuse choux bun, for example, and filling it not with the traditional cream but a concentrated pear reduction, or creating his annual sell-out Treasure Chest, a Christmas cake, albeit one that involves the creation of two kind of moulds and seven kinds of chocolate. Nor, as might be commonly perceived of French haute pâtisserie, must the cakes be overly serious: here, after all, is a man who makes macarons using After Eight mints and chocolatecoated marshmallow bears – for adults – and who, when he opened his Paulette Macarons store in Beverly Hills with Paule and Gérard Koumetz in 2007 – the first of a planned chain, a second having opened in San Francisco – tapped into local tastes with flavours inspired by Bounty and Snickers bars (“though I’ve had so
many I’m a bit tired of macarons now,” he adds. “I’m starting to hate them...”). But he often equates cake-making with couture fashion, the success of both being less about shock tactics than restraint, technical skill and allure: simple flavours, carefully combined, with maybe a dash of colour that actually does echo current style trends (and with, perhaps, tongue in cheek, given how the worlds of catwalks and cake rarely collide). He has developed the use of red to reflect the house colours of the Plaza Athénée, “and I can dress a cake like Lagerfeld can dress a model,” jokes the man who speaks of making pastry ‘collections’, wanted to be a designer/ illustrator when he was a boy, was too late
gives him a boyish cheekiness. He speaks of starting his career at the Park Lane as a naive 18-year-old, unable to speak English, making very little money and literally crying every night – “the beginning was very hard but pastry was my passion and I wanted to work with that as my job,” he says. “But it takes time to become a good pastry chef. There are, after all, lots of lazy ideas – for me strawberry and chocolate are not a good combination, for example, and yet you see it everywhere. You have to mature and I knew I’d found what I was good at. I always dreamt of being a champion – like Rocky Balboa.” He matured at the right time: according to Michalak, recent years have seen a sea-change in openness in the pastry world that has made the sharing of recipes typical – such that, for example, he trained last year’s Coup de Monde de la Pâtisserie winner – leading to even more experimentation and dynamism. The challenge, he says, is to keep finding the new. “So wherever I go on holiday I only eat local food,” he says. “Last time I was in Puerto Rico I ate their very famous local, uncooked pastry which is so awful - they put so much sugar in it – but also so good. They put lime and cream on brioche... I was crazy about that. And trying it broadens your horizons. Taking those established ideas and working with them is essential to moving pastry designs forward. You need to do that for your team too – if you’re not awake, neither are they. And no good pastries will come of that.”
“I like women to be not obviously sexy but very charismatic. And it should be the same when you first see a pastry: it should be, ‘wow, amazing!’ ” with his application to a suitable course and ended up training as a pâtissier instead. “I like everything sexy. Fashion is something for which you need to have a certain sensibility. I’m as sensitive to light, colour, shape as I am to salt and sweet.” Indeed, while he says it with a smile, he happily compares the impact a cake might have with that a glamorous woman might: “I like women to be not obviously sexy but very charismatic. And it should be the same when you first see a pastry: it should be, ‘wow, amazing!’ Not everyone agrees with that: Pierre Hermé doesn’t think it ultimately matters how the pastry looks. Of course, then the pastry should have structure and character – if you start speaking and the woman doesn’t have a brain, there goes the charisma.” Perhaps he has won the right to speak as perhaps only a Frenchman could, albeit one with a part rock star, part Tintin hairdo that
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Black White
Diamonds
the
choice
connoisseurs’
Heirloom quality at affordable prices – how is that possible? Nilesh Patel, Managing Director, discusses what makes Bernex stand the test of time.
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ernex has been passionate about watches for over 150 years, utilising its unquestionable experience and skill to create outstanding timepieces that are loved by their owners. With history dating back over a century and a half the company knows a thing or two about creating the timepieces that people desire.
What is the history of Bernex? Bernex was created by the Bouverat family in 1858 in the heartland of quality watchmaking in Switzerland, a village called Les Breuleux. The Bouverat family built the reputation of a leading watchmaker in Switzerland, and in 1919 one of the brothers, Geo Bouverat, came to England to establish the brand in the UK. Since then thousands of quality jewellers have helped establish the range of products as leaders in their field.
our experience has shown the demands of the customer remain the same regardless of their budget.
pride ourselves on the high specification of the products we manufacture.
Historically we have built our reputation on mechanical and automatic wrist watches appealing to the middle-aged man or companies that reward long service commitment with a special gift. However, the product portfolio has altered a lot over the years with the different demands of the customer; the changing trends of time and, of course, the constant definition of what is fashionable. Today, our customer profile reaches from twenty-somethings to great-grandparents celebrating births, weddings, anniversaries or just wanting a special gift to say ‘thank you’.
but that in itself does not make a Swiss watch better than a Far Eastern watch. As the market competition continues to grow, the definition of Swiss Made has been diluted. Some brands state Swiss Made but have all the parts from China, Korea, and merely assemble the watch in Switzerland so they can use the ‘Swiss Made’ stamp. Others have established in Switzerland to create an impression that they are Swiss Made. If you choose to buy a Swiss Made watch, then you should invest time in researching where, what and how your precious timepiece came into being. Otherwise you may pay a high quality price for a less than quality piece.
Why is Swiss Made so important? What is the Bernex customer profile? Switzerland is the home of fine watchmaking,
What do you think of the current trends?
In the current climate we have seen a move What makes Bernex different? towards traditional values, traditional styles For all the years that Bernex has been trading and, of course, value. The fashionable products the brand remains exclusive to the connoisseur that customers would ‘like to have’ have been who seeks outstanding quality without the put on hold and they seem to return back to fanfare of a large label. The philosophy of the classic timepieces. Our focus is to create Bernex has been to provide value for money, timepieces that can be worn today by you, quality products that are equal (if not better) tomorrow by your son, and in years to come by than the competition but at a price that is his son, and still be the valuable timepiece that affordable by all. you purchase. The classic timepiece is forever, Bernex has established a reputation that not just for the current trend. stands for unquestionable quality. Products that What makes Bernex such a success? work for years and without problems. Bernex Bernex strives to provide the best combination focuses on the importance of the consumer of quality and price. Our portfolio consists of experience which is crucial to our success. Swiss Made timepieces starting at just £125, Why would I choose a Bernex? giving the customer outstanding quality at a That would depend on what is important to value price point. However, our reputation you. Bernex offers traditional quality at a price is built on the mechanical and automatic that is often more competitive than its rivals. watches which retail for a little more. Our We believe that our products appeal to comprehensive portfolio consists of over those who know what they want and who will 100 models for the customers of all ages to appreciates the hand-finished touches, the select from. Our products differ from our quality materials (almost completely sourced competition because of the care taken in from European partners) and, of course, the producing our timepieces which are handno-fuss customer experience. assembled in Switzerland and checked again Our philosophy is to provide value – (by hand) before leaving our UK offices. We
Why is Bernex ‘the connoisseurs’ choice’? Our strap line of ‘the connoisseurs’ choice’ reflects all our values, desires and vision of where the brand sees itself. We are not mass market, not a leader in the fashion markets and not creating illusions to deceive the customer. Our strategy is to deliver the customer experience that is second to none at a price that only a connoisseur would appreciate. Visit Finnies to view the full catalogue and experience the quality that Bernex has to offer.
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FINNIES
Watch Collections
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