Leading through excellence and innovation in the supply chain

CJP Chemicals’ personal care and pharma division offers a comprehensive range of innovative ingredients which deliver ease-of-use, technical performance and efficacy to its customers’ formulations. This division also offers class-leading ingredients and formulation technologies for home care products.

CJP Chemicals has a proud history in Southern Africa and is committed to providing excellence and innovation to its customers and principals. The company represents a wide variety of leading international manufacturers of personal care, pharmaceutical and home care ingredients.

Sun care solutions from Seppic

Seppic is an expert in the fields of active ingredients, textures and the creation of new concepts. This supplier puts its know-how to work for cosmetics players and captures new trends around the globe. Seppic offers a complete range of ingredients, such as actives, thickeners, emulsifiers, emollients, and texturising and foaming agents through its multiexpertise platform which utilises cell biology, cutaneous biology, biochemistry, chemistry, plant extraction, biotechnology, formulation, analysis and toxicology.

In just a few years, sun protection has become the most controversial cosmetic market. Some studies have shown that sunscreens contribute to coral bleaching, most of the chemical filters are currently being evaluated for their potential endocrine disrupting effect, nano-sized particles’ effect on health remain unknown and non-nano mineral filters remain difficult to formulate.

Sun care products are nevertheless still essential to preserve population skin’s sun capital, what is a true public health challenge. The problem may appear intractable, since no ideal solution emerges. However, different formulation strategies can be implemented in order to obtain the best compromise between product efficacy, consumer safety and environmental protection.

Seppic suggests a water-resistant inorganic sunscreen SPF30 (US20112), featured in Table 1, which will avoid the spread of the UV filters in marine environments while guaranteeing a homogeneous application on skin for optimal protection. The formulation contains Sensanov WR, a phosphate anionic emulsifier which creates a light and easily-spreadable sun care product. It provides a light skin-feel followed by the sensation of a matte, velvety veil that slowly envelops the skin. The unique film-forming chemistry of the emulsifier offers waterresistant properties ideal for the development of sun care formulations.

Emosmart L19, a high-purity, non-polar and readily-biodegradable emollient, shows excellent compatibility with all types of oils and helps to disperse minerals (TiO2/ZnO). It gives a fresh and vanishing texture with a matte after-feel. Sepinov EMT 10 thickens and stabilises the emulsion while providing glide-on freshness and a satiny skin-feel.

Touching technologies from IOI Oleo

IOI Oleo GmbH invents, develops, produces and sells natural-based oleo-specialty ingredients. Since 1912, IOI Oleo is a long-term reliable partner with strong brands, including Imwitor, Miglyol, Softigen, Softisan, Dynasan, and Witarix – for made-in-Germany quality ingredients that inspire trust for use in cosmetic, pharmaceutical and nutrition applications.

The company’s broad portfolio of natural emollients, emulsifiers and multi-functionals makes IOI Oleo a creative and innovative partner for both modern and nature-based cosmetic formulators. With the help of the CARE Studio, IOI Oleo’s in-house application laboratory, it accompanies formulators on their choices from technical dossiers to sensorial wishes to finalise their signature touch formula.

In an emotion-driven market, IOI Oleo’s safe and sustainable solutions offer formulators the best support to pick the best story, performance and sensory profile needed for a concept. All of this occurs in constant and transparent respect of nature.

IOI Oleo recently relaunched Miglyol 8810, a water-light, fast-spreading and natural-based vegan emollient for improved formulas. This high-polarity emollient eases solubilising of chemical UV-filters and contributes to enhanced SPF retention. Its high polarity is also great for dispersing pigments in any type of colour cosmetics formulation.

It has also relaunched Softisan 649, a vegan, all-purpose product offering a highly substantive protecting film for an improved skin barrier. The unique chemical structure of this safe and widely-used ingredient gives it water-resistance and water-binding capacities. It also provides a smooth and caring sensation for highperformance cosmetics.

Sharon Laboratories’ preservative solutions for sensitive skin

Sharon Laboratories is a global manufacturer of preservative solutions for personal care products. Sharon Laboratories’ accumulated knowledge and know-how has allowed it to formulate a wide variety of innovative and highly successful products, providing solutions for the entire personal care industry, including skin care, sun care, baby care, wipes and more, meeting industry and consumer trends.

The market for sensitive skin products is on the rise, coupled with the challenges formulators face when preserving these products. Alternatives to classic preservatives are often too mild and at high concentration they pose a problem to sensitive skin.

Preservatives are a fundamental part of a formula since they guarantee the safety of the consumer. They inhibit the growth of bacteria, mould, and fungi, even after the product has been opened and exposed to the elements and during use. Inappropriate preservation of a formula poses serious health risks beyond sensitive skin. The industry has struggled to bring efficient alternatives to the market to cater the needs of sensitive skin. Cosmetic brands facing consumer feedback linked to skin irritation issues are challenging suppliers of preservative systems to adapt to this need.

Sharon Laboratories, known for its innovative preservation solutions for more than 40 years, has developed two lines that answer preservation needs for sensitive skin product applications. Sharomix Amplify and SharoSense Plus offer the following benefits:

• low level of use

• broad spectrum

• compatibility in anionic, cationic and non-ionic formulas

• non-pH-dependant. With the growing demand for sensitive skin care formulations, these solutions offer full protection, without compromising on skin sensitivity.

New esters from IOI Esterchem

Beauty evolves in line with the sophistication of science and technology. The emergence of new ingredients has sent beauty aficionados on a celebratory and frenzy mode as they create more ways to explore beauty on different spectrum.

Take esters for example, a theoretically simple esterification process produces derivatives which have the full potential to be used in personal care and colour cosmetics formulations. One ester worth paying attention to is Ethyl Hexyl, which IOI Esterchem, Malaysia is proud of having produced. It is available in two variants, namely Ethyl Hexyl Palmitate (EHP) and Ethyl Hexyl Stearate (EHS). Both variants possess excellent emollient properties which impart better hydration and retain moisture, subsequently maintaining skin’s natural moisture reservoir. Their ability to lubricate anything that comes in contact with the skin improves the penetration and enhances the absorption of active ingredients for excellent efficacy.

These esters are also advantageous when used in colour cosmetics formulations where different pigments are incorporated and the interfacial tension between the pigments needs to be reduced for efficient blending.

The versatility of these two esters makes them suitable for use in different applications such as hair care (shampoos and conditioners), creambased products and colour cosmetics that set current beauty trends.

The esters have dry-slip feel that is similar to the texture of a silicone, so they are justifiably deemed to be a good organic replacement for silicones. They are non-comedogenic when compared to silicones and other heavy oils.

While these two esters might be new, for apparent reasons, formulators are already experimenting with them on to embark on a new experience of advanced cosmetics formulations. •

CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za