[CJP Chemicals]
LEADING THROUGH EXCELLENCE AND INNOVATION IN THE SUPPLY CHAIN CJP Chemicals’ personal care and pharma division offers a comprehensive range of innovative ingredients which deliver ease-of-use, technical performance and efficacy to its customers’ formulations. This division also offers class-leading ingredients and formulation technologies for home care products.
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JP Chemicals has a proud history in Southern Africa and is committed to providing excellence and innovation to its customers and principals. The company represents a wide variety of leading international manufacturers of personal care, pharmaceutical and home care ingredients.
Sun care solutions from Seppic Seppic is an expert in the fields of active ingredients, textures and the creation of new concepts. This supplier puts its know-how to work for cosmetics players and captures new trends around the globe. Seppic offers a complete range of ingredients, such as actives, thickeners, emulsifiers, emollients, and texturising and foaming agents through its multiexpertise platform which utilises cell biology, cutaneous biology, biochemistry, chemistry, plant extraction, biotechnology, formulation, analysis and toxicology. In just a few years, sun protection has become the most controversial cosmetic market. Some studies have shown that sunscreens contribute to coral bleaching, most of the chemical filters are currently being evaluated for their potential endocrine disrupting effect, nano-sized particles’ effect on health remain unknown and non-nano mineral filters remain difficult to formulate. Sun care products are nevertheless still essential to preserve population skin’s sun capital, what is a true public health challenge. The problem may appear intractable, since no ideal solution emerges. However, different formulation strategies can be implemented in order to obtain the best compromise between product efficacy, consumer safety and environmental protection. Seppic suggests a water-resistant inorganic sunscreen SPF30 (US20112), featured in Table 1, which will avoid the spread of the UV filters in marine environments while guaranteeing a homogeneous application on skin for optimal
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FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
protection. The formulation contains Sensanov WR, a phosphate anionic emulsifier which creates a light and easily-spreadable sun care product. It provides a light skin-feel followed by the sensation of a matte, velvety veil that slowly envelops the skin. The unique film-forming chemistry of the emulsifier offers waterresistant properties ideal for the development of sun care formulations. Emosmart L19, a high-purity, non-polar and readily-biodegradable emollient, shows excellent compatibility with all types of oils and helps to disperse minerals (TiO2/ZnO). It gives a fresh and vanishing texture with a matte after-feel. Sepinov EMT 10 thickens and stabilises the emulsion while providing glide-on freshness and a satiny skin-feel. Table 1: Water-resistant inorganic sunscreen SPF30 (US20112)
Phase Ingredient A
B
C
Aqua/Water
% to 100
Glycerine
3.0
Sodium Hydroxide Solution 25% (w/w)
0.2
Emosmart L19
8.0
Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate
9.0
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
8.0
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
1.0
Zinc Oxide
10.0
Titanium Dioxide (and) Alumina (and) Stearic Acid
10.0
D
Sensanov WR
E
Sepinov EMT 10
F
Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin
2.0 0.25 1.0
Process: For a lab scale batch of 300g, combine phase B ingredients and heat the mixture up to 40°C to melt the polyhydroxystearic acid. Add phase C ingredients one by one into B while homogenising at 5 000rpm. Once phase C is added, homogenise at high shear for a few more minutes if needed. When phases B and C are properly dispersed and uniformed, stop homogenising and add phase D while heating to 85°C. Heat the aqueous phase (A) to 85°C. Heat up the oily phase (B+C+D) to 85°C, then add phase E. Combine oily and aqueous phases together and homogenise at 4 000rpm for four minutes. Cool down the batch to 60°C with low shear mixing and add phase F, then cool down the batch to room temperature.
