Truly inclusive beauty ingredients for diverse formulations

The challenges experienced by African consumers when it comes to finding suitable skin and hair care products are a powerful reminder of why representation of every form of beauty is so important in the personal care industry. Lipotec Active Ingredients, a Lubrizol Life Science company, has taken the concept of inclusive beauty a step further by testing Ebonitone biotech ingredient on South African volunteers with ethnic skin and by expanding the efficacy profile of Matmarine biotech ingredient to include both local ethnic and men’s skin.

Ebonitone biotech ingredient was developed by Lipotec Active Ingredients to meet the needs of ethnic skin which often vary greatly from the needs of other skin types.

Hyperpigmentation is the result of different overlapping causes, particularly sun exposure. It can occur as a result of the inflammation associated with acne and is known as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Most experts agree that hyperpigmentation is a common problem among consumers with ethnic skin. Their melanin-rich skin is more susceptible to discoloration or the appearance of dark spots, resulting in an uneven colour or skin tone. Many of the products these consumers see advertised or find on shelf might not work for them, because their dark spots are much more pigmented and harder to improve.

Extract targeting hyperpigmentation

Thanks to its comprehensive mechanism of action, based on the regulation of multiple stages of the pigmentation process, Ebonitone biotech ingredient can even the skin tone with high efficacy even in dark skin phototypes.

This biotechnology extract has been tested in vivo on South African volunteers – which is a significant turning point for the cosmetics industry in terms of diversity-focused beauty innovations that are relevant to the needs of local consumers.

A clinical test was performed on a group of 24 African female volunteers, with skin phototypes V to VI and with an age range of between 35 and 50 years, who presented with a dull and uneven complexion. The volunteers applied a cream containing 2% Ebonitone biotech ingredient to half of their face and a placebo cream to the other half, twice a day for 56 days.

Figure 1: Results for the L* and the ITAº parameters. Statistical significance vs initial time: ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. Statistical significance vs placebo for L*: **p<0.01 (28 and 56 days); for ITAº: **p<0.01 (28 days); ***p<0.001 (56 days)

Colorimetric measurements of the skin were taken on the cheek using a spectrophotometer. The luminance (L*) and individual typology angle (ITAº) parameters were determined. After 28 and 56 days of treatment, there were significant increases in skin luminance and in the ITAº, which indicates a lower degree of pigmentation (as seen in Figure 1). Digital photographs of the volunteers show improvement in the skin complexion after treatment with the active cream (see Figure 2).

A self-assessment questionnaire completed by the volunteers at the end of the study confirmed their perception of a more luminous and healthy skin glow. These percentages were confirmed by volunteers for the following statements:

• 92% agreed it helps to lighten up the skin tone

• 80% said it improves skin luminosity

• 88% confirmed their skin tone appears more even.

A complete efficacy profile

In different ethnicities, Matmarine biotech ingredient helps improve the appearance of combination and oily skin while keeping it hydrated. In addition to the initial efficacy studies conducted on Caucasian and Asian individuals, Lipotec Active Ingredients has assessed the ability of the ingredient to decrease shininess and minimise pores in African skin. This in vivo study involved 22 African female volunteers, aged between 18 and 45, with combination to oily skin, ranging in phototype from V to VI. The volunteers either applied a cream containing 3% Matmarine biotech ingredient or a placebo cream to half their face, twice a day for 28 days.

Thereafter, skin mattification, moisturisation and pore analysis parameters were evaluated. High resolution digital photographs were taken using the Colorface system while frame scan software was used to analyse the images of the cheek area (close to the nose wing), to determine the coefficient of the visibility of pores after treatment. The results showed that 3% Matmarine biotech ingredient significantly minimised pores in African skin by 20.1% (see Figure 3).

This expanded efficacy data on all skin types including men’s skin makes Matmarine biotech ingredient a truly inclusive technology for diversity-focused beauty and skin care products. The ingredient offers multifunctional, high-performance and sustainability benefits as it reduces sebum, maintains proper skin hydration over a long period and is of a 100% natural origin.

The new in vivo results complete the efficacy profile of Matmarine biotech ingredient and reconfirm its capacity to harmonise skin’s complexion regardless of consumers’ ethnicity or gender, because enlarged pores, inflammation and blemishes are common concerns associated with all oily skin types.

Ebonitone biotech ingredient and Matmarine biotech ingredient are available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals. •

Figure 3: Matmarine biotech ingredient significantly minimised the appearance of pores in African skin, compared to the placebo

Savannah Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za