Formulation Design | 01 | 2021

Page 48

[Savannah Fine Chemicals]

TRULY INCLUSIVE BEAUTY INGREDIENTS FOR DIVERSE FORMULATIONS The challenges experienced by African consumers when it comes to finding suitable skin and hair care products are a powerful reminder of why representation of every form of beauty is so important in the personal care industry. Lipotec Active Ingredients, a Lubrizol Life Science company, has taken the concept of inclusive beauty a step further by testing Ebonitone biotech ingredient on South African volunteers with ethnic skin and by expanding the efficacy profile of Matmarine biotech ingredient to include both local ethnic and men’s skin.

E

bonitone biotech ingredient was developed by Lipotec Active Ingredients to meet the needs of ethnic skin which often vary greatly from the needs of other skin types. Hyperpigmentation is the result of different overlapping causes, particularly sun exposure. It can occur as a result of the inflammation associated with acne and is known as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Most experts agree that hyperpigmentation is a common problem among consumers with ethnic skin. Their melanin-rich skin is more susceptible to discoloration or the appearance of dark spots, resulting in an uneven colour or skin tone. Many of the products these consumers see advertised or find on shelf might not work for them, because their dark spots are much more pigmented and harder to improve.

Extract targeting hyperpigmentation

with skin phototypes V to VI and with an age range of between 35 and 50 years, who presented with a dull and uneven complexion. The volunteers applied a cream containing 2% Ebonitone biotech ingredient to half of their face and a placebo cream to the other half, twice a day for 56 days. Colorimetric measurements of the skin were taken on the cheek using a spectrophotometer. The luminance (L*) and individual typology angle (ITAº) parameters were determined. After 28 and 56 days of treatment, there were significant increases in skin luminance and in the ITAº, which indicates a lower degree of pigmentation (as seen in Figure 1). Digital photographs of the volunteers show improvement in the skin complexion after treatment with the active cream (see Figure 2). A self-assessment questionnaire completed by the volunteers at the end of the study confirmed their perception of a more luminous and healthy skin glow. These percentages were confirmed by volunteers for the following statements: • 92% agreed it helps to lighten up the skin tone • 80% said it improves skin luminosity • 88% confirmed their skin tone appears more even.

Thanks to its comprehensive mechanism of action, based on the regulation of multiple stages of the pigmentation process, Ebonitone biotech ingredient can even the skin tone with high efficacy even in dark skin phototypes. This biotechnology extract has been tested in vivo on South African volunteers – which is a significant turning point for the cosmetics industry in terms of diversity-focused beauty innovations that are relevant to the needs of local consumers. A clinical test was Figure 1: Results for the L* and the ITAº parameters. Statistical significance vs initial time: ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. Statistical significance vs placebo for L*: **p<0.01 (28 and 56 performed on a group of 24 days); for ITAº: **p<0.01 (28 days); ***p<0.001 (56 days) African female volunteers,

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FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA


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