Formulation Design | 01 | 2021 by New Media B2B

ISSUE 1 | 2021

FORMULATION

DES GN A resourceful guide for brands, manufacturers and R&D experts

Smart ingredients and inspiring concepts

[Guideline formulations and technical content to sustain NPD

G H T T O YO U

at your fingertips

TRANSFORMING INGREDIENTS INTO SOLUTIONS Helping You Source The Most Innovative Materials In The Industry As Well As Functional Ingredients To Optimise Your Personal Care Formulation

Your partner in essential chemistry

IMCD South Africa 275 Oak Ave Randburg www.imcdgroup.com

[Contents] The team EDITORIAL

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za LAYOUT & DESIGN: David Kyslinger

FORMULATION

DES GN ISSUE 1 | 2021

SUB-EDITOR: Katrien Smit

ADVERTISING

SALES EXECUTIVE: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za

6 NEWS

SALES EXECUTIVE: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za

Givaudan Active Beauty tackles oily skin issues

SALES EXECUTIVE: Càndida Giambò-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za

INTERNATIONAL SALES

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

CIRCULATION

CIRCULATION MANAGER: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

PUBLISHING TEAM

GENERAL MANAGER: Dev Naidoo PRODUCTION CONTROLLER: Mandy Ackerman ART DIRECTOR: David Kyslinger

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd

MANAGEMENT TEAM

CEO: Aileen Lamb COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER: Ruth Shogoe CEO MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson HEAD OFFICE New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd 8th floor, Media24 Centre, 40 Heerengracht Cape Town, 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 406 2002 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

New peptide enhances hair’s natural pigmentation

7 LOCAL DEMAND GROWS FOR COSMETICS FORMULATED WITH NATURAL INGREDIENTS

Report reveals SA consumers favour natural ingredients

8 EDITORIAL Styling polymers from AECI Specialty Chemicals Provitamin showcases how GO-VC inhibits skin dryness Botanichem navigates the basics of formulating cosmetics

Chemgrit Cosmetics delivers on its promise of exceptional products

FORMULATION 101: NAVIGATING THE BASICS

Pharma excipients and formulation solutions from Gattefossé How to formulate with Cirebelle’s Cirebase LB55 CJP Chemicals brings you supply chain innovation Bring life to formulations with Eco Product’s baobab oil

Discover ESP’s ingredients for vegan beauty products

YOUR RELIABLE SUPPLIER FOR DRUG DEVELOPMENT

One-stop ingredient shopping from Merck Explore Solvay’s natural ingredients for textured hair Truly inclusive technologies brought to you by Savannah Fine Chemicals Harness the power of JRS Rettenmaier’s plant-based ingredients

The views expressed in this journal, other than those specifically stated, are not necessarily those of the publisher. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the content and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom.

Vantage Specialty Chemicals secures the sustainable supply of jojoba

THE RISE OF VEGAN BEAUTY PRODUCTS WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[ Ed’s Note]

BE INSPIRED BY

world-class ingredients G

lobal trends are changing the way formulators design personal care and pharmaceutical products. These days, suppliers of ingredients play a key role in the development process, assisting formulators in keeping up with what’s hot and innovative on the market. In line with this trend, P&C Review brings you the Formulation Design e-book – a resourceful guide for brands, manufacturers and R&D experts in the cosmetics, personal care, pharma and nutraceutical industries. The launch edition of Formulation Design is packed with interesting content on personal care and health and wellness trends packaged with innovative ingredients and formulation technologies that have been developed with these market trends in mind. Solutions for inclusive

beauty, vegan cosmetics, plant-based ingredients, products that aid patient compliance and safe and effective synthetic technologies are some of the themes highlighted in the e-book. Look out for the guideline formulations, which have been included to assist you on your new product development journey. There are also videos and links to multiple layers of additional content, which will provide you with all the information you need to develop safe and effective cosmetics and healthcare products. Enjoy the read!

[Ad index Issue 1 | 2021] AECI Specialty Chemicals..........................9............................. www.aeciworld.com

EcoProducts................................................35...................... www.ecoproducts.co.za

Afrisil Speciality Ingredients...................13......................................www.afrisil.com

Essential Specialised Products.............39..................................www.esp-sa.co.za

Authentic Oil’s...............................................6....................www.authentic-oils.co.za

IMCD SA .......................................................IFC............................www.imcdgroup.com

Botanichem .................................................15....................... www.botanichem.co.za

Merck..............................................................43..............www.merck4cosmetics.com

Carst & Walker/Gattefossé ............... OBC................................... www.carst.co.za/ ......................................................................................................... www.gattefosse.com

Nautica Organic Trading............................11................. www.nauticaorganics.com

Chemgrit Cosmetics...................................19......... www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za

Savannah Fine Chemicals...................... 49............................www.savannah.co.za

Chempack Industries..................................11....................................www.cpack.co.za Cirebelle ....................................................... 27................................ www.cirebelle.com

Solvay Polymers & Chemicals South Africa ................................................ 47.................................... www.solvay.com

CJP Chemicals............................................... 5..................... www.cjpchemicals.co.za

The Care Co....................................................11.................................. www.careco.co.za

Claman.............................................................7................................ www.claman.co.za

Vantage Specialty Chemicals ...............55.......................... www.vantagegrp.com

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Rettenmaier South Africa (JRS)............51 ................. www.jrspersonalcare.com

CJP Chemicals Driving Innovation and Excellence

Tel: 011-494-6700 Email: nataliem@cjpchemicals.co.za Web: www.cjpchemicals.co.za

[ News]

Mangixyl is a universal, genderless ingredient created from responsibly sourced mango leaves

GIVAUDAN ACTIVE BEAUTY TACKLES OILY SKIN ISSUES WITH MANGIXYL The producer of innovative ingredients is proud to launch Mangixyl, a powerful microbiome-friendly cosmetic ingredient with proven efficacy targeting oily skin through sebum regulation. Created from

Givaudan Active Beauty’s double-blind tests versus placebo

responsibly sourced mango leaves and designed with inclusive beauty

studies, encompassing three different skin ethnicities (African,

in mind, this sustainable innovation from Givaudan Active Beauty

Asian and Caucasian) have also shown a 49.5% improvement in

encapsulates the company’s purpose of ‘creating for happier, healthier

sebum quality. Mangixyl is a universal, genderless ingredient that

lives with love for nature’.

is suitable for all age groups and skin tones. This and other active

The mango leaves are sourced in collaboration with the Association Bendia, based in the village of Koro, Burkina Faso, in the heart of West Africa. Run by volunteers, this initiative empowers women to find

ingredients from Givaudan Active Beauty are available in South Africa from The Care Co. Head of procurement fine fragrances and active beauty, Maxence

employment by matching them with suitable job opportunities in the

Billas comments: “Mangixyl is a great example of how we work

leaf-harvesting process.

closely with communities to source ingredients in a responsible

After harvesting, the mango leaves undergo a green fractionation

way, with maximum respect for people and the environment. This

process to produce Mangixyl. This fully natural, microbiome-friendly

approach not only helps us to support these communities but

active ingredient regulates sebum production (down to 15.9% after one

also makes our supply chain more secure and gives our customers

month depending on the complexion) to relieve the discomfort caused

access to high-quality, responsibly sourced products at a time when

by oily skin – a global concern for consumers.

sustainability and traceability are top of mind for consumers.”

PEPTIDE TECHNOLOGY EFFECTIVE IN RESTORING ORIGINAL HAIR COLOUR Silverfree intensively and progressively enhances the natural

Authentic Oil’s is a wholesaler of perfume oils, essential oils as well as cosmetic and home care fragrances. We supply raw materials to manufacturers and we also offer a contract manufacturing service whereby we manufacture on your behalf.

pigmentation of hair and has a remnant effect that continues for at least four months after the last application. Sederma, which is experienced in peptide science for cosmetic applications, created Silverfree as a peptide technology that re-educates the hair bulb to produce its own natural authentic pigmentation. The peptide also provides enhanced protection against intrinsic and extrinsic oxidative damage. Its efficacy against hair greying was demonstrated in vitro and in vivo through four independent clinical studies. Based on these results, Silverfree visibly reduced the density of white hair (32.4% down to 86%) and restored the original hair colour (27.4% pigmented hair up to 385%). Being water soluble, Silverfree is highly suitable for cold process manufacturing. This biomimetic peptide allows everyone to maintain their identity and embrace with pride the individuality of their own hair colour.

Authentic Oil’s (Pty) Ltd Should you require any additional information please contact GINO on 062 276 1771 | www.authentic-oils.co.za

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

All the results of the clinical studies, as well as in vitro and consumer studies, are available upon request through your Sederma sales representative.

[ News]

LOCAL DEMAND GROWS FOR COSMETICS FORMULATED WITH NATURAL INGREDIENTS Consumer spending patterns in South Africa are reflecting the economic downturn caused by the impact of the pandemic, with spending focused on essential items. This is according to The Cosmetics Industry in South Africa 2021 report by Research and Markets, which states that the lockdown has had a significant effect on the cosmetics industry as frequent handwashing and use of hand sanitisers has resulted in an increased use of hand creams and lotions to moisturise the skin. Numerous cosmetics companies have started manufacturing hand sanitisers. Retailers also reported increased sales of hair care products when salons were closed, while sales of nail polish and shaving products also grew. Consumers’ concerns about sustainability and the use of harmful ingredients has led to a growing market for cosmetics formulated with natural ingredients. The number of cosmetics start-ups has increased, often as a result of black

Consumers’ concerns about sustainability and the use of harmful ingredients has led to a growing market for cosmetics formulated with natural ingredients

consumer complaints about the lack of products for their skin and hair requirements, leading to the development of new brands. Men

popularised by independent beauty brands and followed by

are becoming more fashion-conscious and the number of male-

established companies.

focused grooming products and beauty parlours are increasing.

These trends have also resulted in mergers and acquisitions as

Online sales of products, including cosmetics, has grown significantly

major companies seek to benefit from the success of independent

since the start of the lockdown.

brands. Throughout the lockdown people have generally stuck to

Digitalisation, wellness, personalisation and sustainability are some of the important beauty and grooming trends, largely

their normal skin care routine, but sales of makeup have declined due to fewer trips outside the home, and the wearing of masks.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[AECI Specialty Chemicals]

MADE BY NATURE, STYLED BY YOU Styling polymers are products which, when applied, form a thin film over the surface of the hair, causing adjacent strands to be attracted to one another through capillary forces. These forces hold the hair together until they are broken by washing or combing. Styling polymers are used in hair sprays, setting or styling gels, waxes and other styling aids.

rends in the global hair styling market include the customisation of products and the use of natural ingredients in on-the-go hair styling products. Globally, the hair fixative market is showing a clear trend towards natural alternatives over the commonly used styling polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). This trend is expected to continue to grow exponentially over the next few years, as consumers become more aware of the ingredients incorporated in the products they buy, and the origin thereof. Concerns associated MaizeCare’s benefits in hair styling applications: • improved curl retention • frizz control • style durability • maintains humidity resistance • enhances volume • provides sebum absorption. Creating MaizeCare polymers TM

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

with PVP include flaking in dry conditions and tackiness in hot, humid conditions, leading to a dull appearance of the hair.

Bio-based styling polymer With a proven portfolio in hair styling ingredients, AECI Specialty Chemicals is introducing a biobased styling polymer called MaizeCare. This styling polymer is derived from corn and provides numerous benefits in hair care formulations. It also has an attractive INCI of hydrolysed corn starch. MaizeCare acts as a versatile film former and styling aid, which can range from exceptional stiffness to soft-touch styling. It is supplied in an easy-to-use powder format and is dispersible both in cold and hot water. It is best used with rheology modifiers to improve the particle size suspension. MaizeCare is compatible with a range of rheology modifiers and has the added benefit of being hygroscopic. It allows flexibility in hair care styling from a stiff hold to subtle definition, and textures from waxes to sprays.

[AECI Specialty Chemicals] MaizeCare versus PVP MaizeCare has undergone extensive performance testing in various formulations. It was compared to PVP in a styling gel formulation at various percentages. A hair stiffness analysis was done, which showed that the stiffness between MaizeCare and PVP was comparable.

When comparing humidity resistance, MaizeCare showed to be superior to PVP, with significant increased curl retention as a function of polymer loading. MaizeCare can be used in waxes, styling creams, gels and sprays. Featured in Table 1, Maizecare is used in a sprayable

Table 1: Tame Me Turmeric – Spray (CPF 4163)

Ingredient

INCI

Wt%

Aqua/Water

94.51

MaizeCare Style Polymer

Hydrolysed Corn Starch

Vitamin Concentrate water soluble N unpreserved (410144.00.2)

Propylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sorbitol, Panthenol, Retinyl Palmitate, Linseed Acid. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract, Tocopherol

0.1

Polysorbate 20

0.3

Dowsil CE-8411

Bis-Diisopropanolamino-PG-propyl Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PEG-14 Copolymer (and) Polysorbate 20 (and) Butyloctanol

2.0

PE 91

Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

0.99

Turmeric Smoothie

Fragrance

0.10

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[AECI Specialty Chemicals] format which delivers exceptional performance. In testing, the Tame Me Turmeric spray was compared to a commercial benchmark containing maltodextrin/ VP copolymer. A dry combing test was also performed, comparing the spray formulation to a control containing no Dowsil CE-8411 and a commercial benchmark. An Instron tensile instrument was used during the test and the results showed a 67% improvement in dry combing with the Tame Me Turmeric spray compared with the commercial benchmark. A half-head test was also analysed. A total of 0.75g of the spray and a commercial benchmark were applied to oily, damp hair. The panellist reported easier combing and detangling with the Tame Me Turmeric spray, with more overall volume and less fly-aways. •

Hair stiffness analysis by Dia-Stron. Comparable stiffness is noted between MaizeCare Style and PVP, as well as increased stiffness as a function of polymer loading

AECI Specialty Chemicals – Karen.meyer@aeciworld.com

“MaizeCare can be used in waxes, styling creams, gels and sprays”

MaizeCare Style exhibits superior humidity resistance to PVP

Before treatment

After treatment

Panellist reported easier combing and detangling with Tame Me Turmeric compared to the commercial benchmark

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

ingredient suppliers

Personal and Home Care Polymer Manufactures Opacifiers Conditioners Sensory modifiers Rheology modifiers Emulsifiers

skin care • hair care • body care • active ingredients functionals • visual & vectorised ingredients colour pigments • makeup • nail polish nail treatments • polish removers • hair bleach dyes • oils • butters • scrubs • clays • emulsifiers rheologicals • botanicals • plant extracts natural colours • acids • vitamins vegetable surfactants • oleochemicals floral waters • glycerin packaging •• sustainable • green • halal serum • tubes • cosmetic

Chempack Industries | Contact: Linda Thieme 083 600 0167 / 064 610 2736 | Email: linda@cpack.co.za Website: www.cpack.co.za

tel: +27 11 268 5555 mobile: +27 82 456 6652 email: info@careco.co.za website: www.careco.co.za

Nautica Organic Trading Standard sticker resized.indd 1

2021/04/01 12:48 AM

Wholesalers of Speciality Ingredients. Conventional and organic carrier and essential oils & Butters. • Ecocert approved Emulsiﬁers, Preservatives & Surfactants • Certiﬁed Organic oils and Butters (Kiwa BCS Oko-Garantie GMBH) • Squalane, Hemisqualane, Hyaluronic acid solution, Symbiosolv Clear • Marine Collagen, Waxes, Clays, Ecocert approved Glycerine. Contact Details Donna 083 357 4922 donna@nauticaorganics.com Cassy 083 266 2657 or 031 822 0601 cassy@nauticaorganics.com Website: www.nauticaorganics.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[Afrisil Speciality Ingredients]

THE SKIN DRYNESS INHIBITORY MECHANISM OF GO-VC, AN AMPHIPHILIC ASCORBIC-ACID DERIVATIVE Since tight junctions are known to play an important role in skin barrier function, their functional deterioration is thought to induce skin dryness. Provitamin, represented locally by Afrisil Speciality Ingredients, has investigated the skin dryness-inhibitory effect of GO-VC with a focus on tight junctions.

scorbic-acid (AsA) derivatives are widely used in cosmetics for their skin-brightening, anti-wrinkle and anti-acne effects. However, since AsA and its derivatives are reported to suppress the secretion of sebum1, they have a possibility to promote skin dryness in some cases. In recent years, 2-O-glyceryl-3-O-octyl ascorbic acid (GO-VC), of which glycerine and octanol are bound to hydroxyl groups at the C-2 and C-3 positions of AsA respectively (see Figure 1), has been developed as an amphiphilic AsA derivative with excellent stability. Since glycerine and octanol are known to have humectant ability and antimicrobial activity, GO-VC is anticipated to have a moisturising effect and antimicrobial activity. In a clinical study, GO-VC has been confirmed to have a suppressing effect on Propionibacterium acnes proliferation and to improve Acne vulgaris. Regarding the moisturising effect, a sensory evaluation confirmed that GO-VC provides skin with a moist feeling that is not sticky or greasy (see Figure 2). However, the skin dryness-inhibitory effect and the mechanism of action of GO-VC were still unclear. Provitamin conducted various studies on human volunteers and epidermal keratinocytes in order to clarify the skin dryness-inhibitory effect and GO-VC mechanism of action. The results of this study were presented by Provitamin’s researchers at the 2020 IFSCC Congress in Yokohama, Japan.

Figure 1: Chemical structure of GO-VC

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Figure 2: Sensory evaluation test of GO-VC

What are tight junctions? Existing as an outermost layer, the skin is the organ responsible for barrier protection as it prevents water loss and protects the body from the invasion of external chemicals and microorganisms. The skin barrier function mainly originates from its lipid lamella structure consisting of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids that are found in the interstice of the stratum corneum (SC) and tight junctions (TJ), which exist at the second level of the granular layer.2, 3, 4 TJ is one of the cell adhesion apparatuses consisting of several proteins such as claudin-1, occludin and zonula occludens-1 (ZO-1) (see Figure 3). Although the important function of TJ is recognised as its barrier protection property against the penetration of metal ions such as Ca2+ and Mg2+ between SC and the granular layer4, TJ is also known to function as a barrier against water. For instance, atopic dermatitis – a chronic inflammatory disease as a result of impaired barrier function – is reported to show the dysfunction of TJ due to the down-regulation of claudin-1 expression.5 Even in healthy skin, reduced barrier function can result in a rough texture and the start of skin

[Afrisil Speciality Ingredients]

Figure 3: Structure of tight junctions (TJ)

dryness.6 Provitamin conducted a human volunteer test to evaluate the behaviour of the skin surface water content (SWC) and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) after an application of GO-VC. The researchers investigated the mechanism of action of GO-VC with a focus on TJ assembly.

METHODS 1. Human volunteer test to determine SWC and TEWL A group of 10 volunteers (five men and women between 24 to 57 years of age) participated in the test.

A sample solution containing 0.1% GO-VC and a placebo without the active ingredient were applied once a day to the inner sides of the left or right upper arm, respectively. SWC and TEWL were measured with a Corneometer CM825 (Courage and Khazaka, Köln) and a Tewameter TM300 (Courage and Khazaka) after treatment with the sample and the placebo solutions at six and 12 weeks, respectively. SWC and TEWL at both sites were also measured before starting the treatments as the baseline values.

2. Determination of the mRNA and protein expressions of TJ-member proteins After being pre-cultured at 37°C in an environment of 5% CO2 for 24 hours, normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) were treated with GO-VC for 72 hours. Thereafter the mRNA expressions of claudin-1, occludin, and ZO-1 in the cells were determined with real-time reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR). Similarly, the protein expression of claudin-1 was also visualised with immunofluorescent staining.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[Afrisil Speciality Ingredients] RESULTS 1. The effect of GO-VC on SWC and TEWL After the topical application of 0.1% GO-VC for 12 weeks on the inner side of the upper arm of the volunteers, the GO-VC-applied site was found to have a significant increase in SWC while TEWL significantly decreased at the site, compared to those of the placebo-applied site (see Figure 4).

2. The effect of GO-VC on TJ-member proteins To clarify the impact of GO-VC on TJ assembly, the study investigated the mRNA expression levels of claudin-1, occludin, and ZO-1 in GOVC-treated NHEKs. The results showed GO-VC significantly increased the mRNA expression levels of claudin-1, occludin, and ZO-1 (see Figure 5). In addition, the immunofluorescent staining of claudin-1 showed higher red fluorescence at a region of the cell membrane of GO-VC-treated NHEKs than that of the control or non-treatedNHEKs (see Figure 6), indicating that GO-VC increased the protein expression of claudin-1.

Discussion Skin dryness, of which the typical characteristics are lower SWC and higher TEWL, is known to cause oxidative stress and inflammation in the

Figure 4: The effect of GO-VC on SWC and TEWL

Figure 6: The effect of GO-VC on the protein expression of claudin-1 in NHEKs

skin, resulting in a probability of skin issues such as hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.7, 8, 9 TJ, which consists of several proteins such as claudin-1, occludin, and ZO-1, exists at the second level of granular layer within the epidermis and is an important structure for maintaining hydration, because the TJ is known to act as a barrier preventing water loss from within the skin.4, 5 Therefore, the reinforcement of TJ assembly is a promising approach to suppress skin dryness. This study investigated the potential of GO-VC to improve skin barrier function with a focus on TJ assembly. Firstly, in the human volunteer test the site where GO-VC was applied showed a significant increase in SWC and a decrease in TEWL when compared to the placebo-applied site (see Figure 4). An in vivo study was also conducted to investigate the mechanism of action of GO-VC on SWC and TEWL. GO-VC up-regulated the mRNA expressions of claudin-1, occludin, and ZO-1 in NHEKs (see Figure 5). To confirm the results in RT-PCR, a cytohistological study was performed with a focus on the protein expression of claudin-1, which is a representative protein in TJ. GO-VC-treated NHEKs increased the protein expression of claudin-1 (see Figure 6). In conclusion, GO-VC was effective in enhancing skin hydration by reinforcing the barrier function through an increase in the synthesis of TJ member proteins. The potential of GO-VC as a cosmetic ingredient was also shown in its ability to supress the effect of skin dryness. • REFERENCES: 1. Y. Tokudome, Y. Takahashi, J Dermat Cosmetol, 1, 66 ~ 70 (2017) 2. M.J. Choi, H.I. Maibach, Am. J Clin Dermatol, 6, 215 ~ 223 (2005) 3. J.W. Fluhr et al., J Invest Dermatol, 117, 44 ~ 51 (2001) 4. N. Kirschner et al., J Invest Dermatol, 113, 1161 ~ 1169 (2013) 5. R. Gruber et al., Am J Pathol, 185, 2777 ~ 2789 (2015) 6. C.R. Harding et al., Int J Cosmet Sci, 22, 21 ~ 52 (2000) 7. H. Fujita, T. Hirao, M. Takahashi, Skin Res Technol, 13, 84 ~ 90 (2007) 8. Y. Kobayashi et al., Int J Cosmet Sci, 30, 35 ~ 40 (2008) 9. Y. Ashida, M. Ogo, M. Denda, Br J Dermatol, 144, 238 ~ 243 (2001)

Figure 5: The effect of GO-VC on the mRNA expressions of claudin-1, occludin, and ZO-1 in NHEKs

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Afrisil – www.afrisil.com Provitamin – ito-provitamin.co.jp/en

Botanichem actively making a change

SUPPLIER OF ACTIVES & TECHNICAL SERVICES Specialists in botanical and natural ingredients.

STABILITY TESTING FORMULATION QUALITY ASSURANCE DOSSIER PRESENTATION FOR INTERNATIONAL MARKETS FULL COSMETIC REGULATORY SERVICES

STS

StabilityTestingServices ROBYN BROWN robyn@botanichem.co.za | www.botanichem.co.za +27 11 425 2205 | 084 599 0063

[ Botanichem]

FORMULATION 101: NAVIGATING THE BASICS Cosmetic formulation is part science, part art and a lot of planning. While it’s exciting to create a new product or range, it can also be daunting to figure out how to convert your idea into a real product with shelf appeal – especially if you are new to the cosmetics industry. In this article, Botanichem and Stability Testing Services take you through each step of process involved in developing your own cosmetic product.

ormulation is the blending a of raw ingredients and carefully selected actives into a single product. The process takes several factors into account including the unique properties of raw ingredients and the chemical changes that occur when they are combined together in different ways. According to Robyn Brown of Botanichem, the ultimate goal is to create a safe, stable, effective and long-lasting product that meets the needs of your target market. In order to achieve this, it is important to find a formulator who can guide you and to have a comprehensive brief. The actual formulation process differs depending on the type of product being developed, however the starting point is always a comprehensive and detailed brief. “I cannot emphasise how important it is to put together a good brief with a solid plan and

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

reasonable timelines,” says Brown. “So many good products never get off the ground because of poor planning.” Prior to the physical formulation of any product, take time to produce the brief. Do as much research as possible and include as many details as you can. The brief needs to take the following into account: quality expectations; compliance needs; budget; timing; quantities; packaging design; marketing strategy and general aesthetics. It is a good idea to have competitor products or popular concepts to use as benchmarks for your ideas. And be open to adapting your idea – very rarely does the first concept work 100%. Only once the brief has been accepted and agreed upon can the formulator move forward to source raw materials and start with product development.

[ Botanichem] • Is the launch date achievable? Allow enough time for each step in the process, as this will ultimately deliver the best results. Rushing product formulation often leads to recalls and long-term damage to a brand or product’s reputation. • Is this a new concept, line extension, competitive activity or market segmentation? If you are launching a new product it will take a lot more time. A line extension or competitive activity are slightly easier as you already have a starting point. • What is the desired market image of the product? How would your target consumer perceive the product. This includes everything from its appearance and feel to the product’s fragrance and any attributes it conveys.

may affect ingredients as certain ingredients have to be purchased in large quantities. Sometimes the costs of these larger pack sizes can be prohibitive. • What claims will be made? Label claims must be truthful and accurate. To make certain claims, you must ensure that the ingredients and actives are able to deliver on them. Should you include a sunscreen in the formulation, SPF testing is compulsory. • How will you substantiate the claims? Being able to prove label claims are true is not only important but also governed by law. Claim substantiation requires testing in the form of independent clinical trials or independent marketing trials. Ask yourself if you are prepared to do comprehensive testing, because prices can be exorbitant.

2. Market positioning

4. Ingredients

• Is it a competitive product? Know the brands you’re competing against and what differentiates your product from theirs – is it price, ingredients, results or all three? • Who is your target market? Be clear about this and include information on the gender, age, lifestyle and purchasing habits of your target consumer. • What is the user’s LSM? This is a major consideration when it comes to costings, as it will determine what ingredients and actives are available to you.

• What fragrance will you use? If you’re launching a range will all the products smell the same? The positioning of a product will determine whether you want to go with a natural fragrance or something more luxurious. It can be conflicting or confusing when products in the same range have different fragrances. Fragrance allergens need to be listed on the product’s ingredients listing. Bear in mind that many essential oils are phototoxic and even more allergenic than using fragrances. • What skin feel is intended for your product? How consumers experience a product will determine whether they use it again or not. This impacts the formula as certain ingredients impart a more luxurious skin feel and will impact on cost. What the formulator perceives is often very different to what the marketer perceives

1. Creating the brief

3. Advertising and sales • How is the product to be advertised/marketed? This may not have a direct impact on formulation, but certain ingredients are easier to market than others. If you are using a new active, you may need to allocate a bigger budget to educating potential customers as they will not be familiar with the ingredients. Botanichem encourages its customers to have a thorough understanding of their market as you cannot blame the formulator or the formulation for a poor-selling product, when in fact the reason is a lack of research or marketing. • Where is it to be sold? This will influence the choice of ingredients. For example, if you are aiming to sell your products in wellness stores, you will need to include botanical and natural ingredients. And if your product needs to be stored in a certain way – Botanichem can formulate for that type of storage. • Monthly, how many units will be sold? This impacts production and batch size, which

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[ Botanichem] or describes. A benchmark feel is often requested so that the formulator understands exactly what the marketer desires to achieve. • Ingredients and marketing claims If you want to formulate a product around a claim, you will need to include a specific ingredient or combination of ingredients which deliver on the claim. Ingredient compatibility is key – are they suitable for use in your product’s formulation? Are they being used at correct or legal limits? • What are the product’s principal characteristics? Decide on the physical properties of your product – will it be a gel, cream, lotion or milk.

5. Packaging • Type of packaging It is important to know whether you want to use a bottle, tube, tub, pump bottle etc. from the outset as this impacts certain aspects of the formula such as viscosity. • Material Is the packaging going to be plastic or glass. Some ingredients are not stable in plastic and require glass packaging or airless tubes. • Colour What colour container would you like, or would you prefer a clear, colourless or white container? • Pack sizes Will you use a standard size packaging or would you prefer a bonus or jumbo size pack to offer consumers more value? Are the pack sizes legal, according to trade and metrology. Avoid misleading packaging – you can’t put a 50g product in a 150g container to fool the customer into believing they receiving more value. • Labelling Will the label be self-adhesive, shrink-sleeve or silkscreen i.e. printed directly onto the packaging? When will the labelling be done – before or after filling? Is your product’s label compliant with regulatory requirements?

6. Testing • Stability testing A product should be tested for stability to determine its shelf life, safety for use and any potential issues, such as the product separating at high temperatures. Stability testing should be done once the formulation has been finalised but before final production and distribution. This is necessary to prevent recalls and damage to your reputation. The shelf life, specifications and certificate of analysis or COA should be drawn up once stability testing has been completed.

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

• Preservative challenge testing This determines the efficacy of the preservatives in your product by exposing it to specified types of bacteria and fungi. These test results provide data on whether the product is adequately preserved. Preservative challenge testing is very necessary to avoid products becoming contaminated on shelf. The health risks associated with using a contaminated product include mild to severe reactions, skin irritation and illness. Product recalls are costly and they can be damaging to your brand and the company’s reputation. • Patch testing This test determines if any ingredients in the formulation are likely to cause an allergic reaction. Sometimes a combination of chemicals can cause skin to react. In order to claim ‘dermatologically tested’ on your product’s label, you need to have patch testing done independently which shows a non-irritant status result. A dermatologist is also required to sign off the results before the claim can be made. • Clinical trials Not only does clinical testing of your cosmetics and personal care products play a key role in substantiating label claims, it also ensures that your products are safe for consumers to use. But these tests can be expensive and time consuming. SPF testing is mandatory if a product contains a sunscreen and a sunscreen claim or SPF claim is made. The CANSA Smart Choice Seal can only be used on a product’s packaging if you have applied for and paid to use it. • Marketing trials These are also known as consumer trials whereby your product is trialled by a sample group of volunteers who then give feedback. Marketing trials are not as scientific as clinical trials and do not carry same weight but they are more cost effective and can be used in marketing campaigns. • SPF testing Sun protection has become one of the more regulated areas of cosmetics. An SPF test measures the ability of a sunscreen to protect the skin against sunburn. Broad spectrum tests determine a product’s ability to protect against both UVA and UVB radiation. •

Botanichem – w w w.botanichem.co.za

Chemgrit Cosmetics (Pty) Ltd supplies raw materials and ingredients to the cosmetics, skin and personal care industries. - Personalised Service - Outstanding Quality - Reliability - Flexibility www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za 011 397 4455 info@chemgritsa.co.za johrinda@chemgritsa.co.za

PROUD EXCLUSIVE AGENT FOR

[Chemgrit Cosmetics]

PROMISING EXCELLENCE, DELIVERING THE EXCEPTIONAL

The cosmetics industry is highly competitive, yet, despite the many players and what can be a difficult environment in which to operate, Chemgrit Cosmetics has managed to differentiate itself from the competition.

he business was founded by Athol Carter. At the time, he saw an opportunity to service the industry more efficiently. So he took advantage of the situation and grew the business from there. “Chemgrit Cosmetics has built its reputation on being transparent and honest, and we have always worked with customers that have the same values. The result is partnerships that are a win-win situation for everyone,” explains Chemgrit sales manager, Johrinda van Rensburg. She adds that the company focuses on building lasting business relationships from which they believe sales and profit will come naturally. Chemgrit started out as a family-owned business in 1989, dealing mainly in personal care ingredients and raw materials. Over the years, the company has expanded into various other industries whilst the cosmetics division has gone from strength to strength and now has several exclusive agencies to its name.

Quality ingredients from reliable suppliers One of the first agencies it acquired was UKbased Fragrance Oils International, which specialises in the creation of perfumery essences and natural herbal extracts for use in the fine fragrance, personal care, room fragrances and household cleaning sectors. Chemgrit Cosmetics now supplies a range of chemical raw materials, ingredients and actives to the personal, skin and hair care markets as well as the home care and pharmaceutical industries. “Our suppliers give us excellent support, which allows us to provide our customers with great advice, products and service,” says Van Rensburg. Aside from sourcing quality ingredients from reliable suppliers worldwide, people continue to be central to the success of the business. “Our customers, suppliers and staff are our future – great products but poor service does not make good business sense,” comments Carter. Chemgrit Cosmetics also accommodates small to medium-sized businesses by repacking ingredients into smaller quantities to make them more accessible and affordable for startups and smaller operations. This continues to be a major area of growth as the appetite for entrepreneurship increases. “We have been a part of many small business owners’ journeys – some of whom have become big names in the industry. We are proud to have been there for them when they started out,” says Van Rensburg.

Global supply with a local touch Chemgrit Cosmetics sources products from all over the world. The company has an office in China, which has helped establish longterm relationships with quality suppliers in the Far East.

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

[Chemgrit Cosmetics]

Staff also travel regularly to meet with suppliers and producers to maintain relationships and to ensure that the products supplied are of the best quality and procured at the most competitive prices. Regular attendance of international trade shows ensures that the company is in touch with the latest global trends. Locally, Chemgrit Cosmetics has offices and warehousing facilities in Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town, enabling it to service and support customers countrywide.

Formulation solutions Chemgrit Cosmetics has an onsite laboratory which provides customers with formulation and technical assistance. The laboratory also offers training to customers on how to use various raw materials and demonstrates new trends and innovations. Due to COVID-19, the laboratory is currently not offering training. However, customers are encouraged to contact Chemgrit Cosmetics to check when training will be available. Many of the company’s suppliers also provide guideline formulations, which can help to inspire customers with ideas for new products.

Anna Stolz, Lesego Bodibe, Stephanie Gompel-Ratsiane and Johrinda van Rensburg

After more than three decades in the business, Chemgrit Cosmetics remains as committed as ever to providing quality products and services at affordable prices.

PRODUCT CATEGORIES Chemgrit Cosmetics supplies ingredients and actives for the following products: • conditioners • shampoo • styling products • baby care and cleansing • body and hand care • liquid soap • personal care wipes • shower and bath products • face care • face cleansing • colour care • after-sun • self-tanning • sun protection • antiperspirants and deodorants • toothpaste and mouthwash.

Key agencies • Fragrance Oils International specialises in the creation of perfumery essences and natural herbal extracts for use in fine fragrance, personal care, air care and household cleaning applications. • Chemyunion is a Brazilian company that manufactures raw materials used in the cosmetics and personal care industry. It is recognised globally for the creation, development and manufacture of innovative assets which are used in many well-known global brands. • GfN & Selco manufactures high-quality active substances for the cosmetics, pharmaceutical and food supplement industries. The company specialises in combining ingredients of natural origin with innovative active substances. • Cremer Oleo is a supplier of soap bases consisting mainly of vegetable oils. Its portfolio offers various palm-free and RSPO-certified alternatives as well as different qualities of organic oils. These products are supplied in the form of noodles or flakes.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[Chemgrit Cosmetics] • Pritty Pearlescent Pigments is a professional pearlescent pigments manufacturer. The company exports to more than 50 countries worldwide, which sees its products used in various applications including cosmetics, decorative paints, plastics, wallpaper, powder coatings, automotive paints, etc.

RAW MATERIALS AND INGREDIENTS Chemgrit Cosmetics’ portfolio consists of the following: • actives • cationic products • colours, oxides and lakes

The Chemgrit Cosmetics team

• colour stabilisers

Johrinda van Rensburg, sales manager, oversees the company’s cosmetics division. She has an in-depth knowledge of the division’s entire portfolio of products and liaises with suppliers and agencies to ensure supply of the latest innovative ingredients and raw materials. Van Rensburg’s motto is “today is always the most productive day of your week”. Lesego Bodibe, technical sales representative, services Gauteng customers and specialises in personal care. Bodibe’s motto is “product quality matters”. Anna Stolz, technical cosmetic consultant, deals with online enquiries. She also addresses all cosmetic enquiries from internal sales assistants and telephonic queries as well as manages samples and the movement of stock. Stolz’s motto is “just do it as well as possible”.

• cream bases

“Chemgrit Cosmetics has built its reputation on being transparent and honest” 22

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

• effect pigments • emollients • emulsifiers • fragrances • glitters • opacifiers • pearlising agents • polymers • protein products • surfactants • UV filters • waxes. Judith Leshabane, the laboratory assistant, helps with formulations, lab projects and the preparation of samples for customers. She is also responsible for assisting with the analysis of non-conforming batches, as well as laboratory document control and admin. Leshabane’s motto is “creating a divine path for satisfied customers”. Bryan Tennant is the customer sales representative for Cape Town and surrounds. He has been involved in the cosmetics division since 2009 and has a good general knowledge of all products, while fragrances are his strength. Tennant’s motto is “there is no product we will not attempt to find for our customers”. Stephanie Gompel-Ratsiane is the Durban sales representative. She provides technical and commercial guidance on new and existing product development and has a special interest in hair and personal care. Gompel-Ratsiane’s motto is “responsiveness is key to service”. •

Chemgrit Cosmetics – www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za

[Gattefossé]

YOUR RELIABLE SUPPLIER FOR DRUG DEVELOPMENT As a leading provider of functional lipid excipients and formulation solutions to healthcare industries worldwide, Gattefossé is committed to delivering high-quality excipients, technical support and inspiring formulations for drug delivery.

Oral drug delivery Lipid excipients for oral drug delivery include solubility and bioavailability enhancers, lubricants, modified release, taste-masking, API protection and suspending agents. Excipients are used in a variety of processes enabling the formulation of different dosage forms, mainly tablets, granules, hard and soft capsules. Many active pharmaceutical ingredients have poor water solubility and/or poor permeability, which affect their bioavailability. Lipidbased formulations are widely used to overcome these issues and can be developed in using a stepwise approach, which is described in Gattefossé’s brochure. Gelucire 44/14 and Labrasol ALF are self-emulsifying excipients that can be used as single excipient to increase drug solubility, permeability and/or bioavailability of drugs. Multiple excipient combinations using oils (e.g. Maisine CC, Peceol), surfactants (e.g. Gelucire, Labrafil) and solvents (e.g. Transcutol HP) form self-emulsifying lipid-based formulations. Click on the link for more information: https://bit.ly/3wJtlmQ. Tablets and capsules are the most preferred dosage forms. However, a lubricant

is required to reduce the friction between particles and equipment when manufacturing tablets and capsules. Compritol 888 ATO is a lubricant of choice for challenging pharmaceutical tablets when used at 1% to 3%. Its inertness eliminates drug-excipient incompatibility issues. As mixing time and speed do not affect its efficiency or tablet hardness, it offers flexibility in formulation development and production. It is the ‘trouble-shooting’ lubricant for tabletting. Click on the link for more information: https://bit.ly/3fXyce8. Many APIs have an unpleasant taste or odour which need to be masked to facilitate their absorption. Coating the drug particle with a lipid film is a common practice to positively change the drug organoleptic properties. Precirol ATO 5 can be used in a high shear or fluid bed coating process and enables the formation of a film coating WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[Gattefossé] around the drug particle to mask its taste. Click on the link for more information: https://bit.ly/32dIP4N. Ideal drug candidates for sustained-release delivery are often BCS class 1 (high water solubility, high permeability) with a short half-life. Formulating a modified release dosage form is also a strategy frequently pursued by pharmaceutical laboratories to extend their market exclusivity after patent expiry. For patients, sustained release formulations enable reduced dosing frequency, reduced drug blood level fluctuations, improved patient compliance and less side effects. Compritol 888 ATO is a smart solution for sustained drug release when used at 10% to 25%. It forms an inert matrix from which the drug diffuses slowly over time. Used alone or in combination with HPMC it enables the production of sustained-release tablets using a direct compression process and with higher drug load achievable. Click on the link for more information: https://bit.ly/3fYdOtE. Popularity of soft gels is booming. They can be filled with a carrier containing the drug in a solubilised or dispersed manner. Geloil SC is an ideal ready-touse suspending agent, specially designed for easy soft gelatin capsule production. If drug solubility and bioavailability are a limiting factor, then a liquid lipid-based formulation can be developed and filled into a soft gel. Click on the link for more information: https://bit.ly/320PYW0.

Topical drug delivery Lipid excipients for topical drug delivery include solubilisers, emulsifiers and viscosity modifying agents. Emulsifiers are designed for challenging formulations and deliver excellent texture and sensorial properties. Solubilisers provide skin penetration enhancement and viscosity agents

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

that stabilise formulations. These excipients are used in creams, emulgels, lotions, foams, microemulsions and gels. The texture of the topical dosage form is important as it impacts patient compliance. Gattefossé has a full range of emulsifiers and texture modifiers enabling the formulation of light or rich creams, all types of gels, balms, ointments and more. Tefose 63 is a multifunctional emulsifier, enabling a one-pot process and offering excellent mucosal and skin tolerance. It is used worldwide with a broad range of APIs, including the ‘azole’ antifungals to treat vaginal infections and mycosis. In combination with Labrafil M 1944 CS, it delivers exceptional heat stability to topical emulsions. Click on the link for more information: https://bit.ly/3t3TV8d. Skin delivery is successfully achieved when the drug is properly formulated in a vehicle, enabling its solubilisation and diffusion in the skin layers. Depending on the target (topical or transdermal), the vehicle contains a solubiliser and/or permeation enhancer to assist in drug solubilisation and diffusion in the skin. Transcutol P is a safe and effective hydrophilic solvent widely used to deliver a drug to the skin. In combination with Capryol or Lauroglycol, it offers interesting synergies for transdermal drug delivery. Click on the link for more information: https://bit.ly/3t6xijd.

“Gattefossé provides bespoke technical and regulatory support to accelerate drug development”

[Gattefossé]

Rectal and vaginal drug delivery Lipid excipients for suppository and pessary formulation include hard fat and hard fat with additives. These bases provide excellent physico-chemical stability and optimise drug delivery for a wide range of active pharmaceutical ingredients and manufacturing equipment. Suppocire NAI 25 A is a versatile suppository base used with numerous APIs, including paracetamol, guaranteeing excellent drug release properties for a fast-acting antipyretic effect. Ovucire 3460 is a hard fat pessary base delivering enhanced spreadability within the vaginal cavity and good mechanical resistance. As it is non-irritant

and provides excellent mucosal tolerance, it is widely used in antifungal treatments. Click on the link for more information: https://bit.ly/2PFSFK1.

International technical support With an international network of technical representatives and technical centres of excellence in USA, France, India and China, Gattefossé provides bespoke technical and regulatory support to accelerate drug development. For local support do not hesitate to contact Carst & Walker in South Africa. For more information on Gattefossé’s excipients and to download up-to-date technical and regulatory documentation, brochures and case studies, please visit the company’s website. •

Gattefossé – www.gattefosse.com Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[Cirebelle]

Learn how to make a body cream with three ingredients

CIREBASE LB55

– THE PERFECT BALANCE BETWEEN PERFORMANCE AND SUSTAINABILITY Cirebelle, a global leader in high-performance wax-based ingredient solutions, offers a highly economical, self-emulsifying cream base for sustainable personal care applications

n line with the evolving trend of ‘less-butbetter’, which sees skin care formulations containing fewer ingredients, LB55 has been developed with the purpose to deliver premium products, together with positive effects on the environment and the skin.

Using CireWax in LB55 CireBase LB55 is a blend of naturally-derived ingredients and the classic CireWax. The CireWax, made from biodegradable and safe synthetic wax, adds stability and hydration properties to the formulation. Based on the CireWax clinical studies, the synthetic wax offers luxurious benefits while imparting gloss to the formulation and a smooth texture on skin.

* Clinical study: Skin smoothness

Formulating with CireBase LB55 The functional benefits and features of LB55 are in line with what consumers want from skin care products. These demands include sustainable ingredients that leave the environment and the skin in a better condition than before. As a result, ingredients that are gentle and non-toxic and which help nourish and protect the skin are of great interest to consumers.

The benefits of CireWax in LB55 • excellent emulsion stability and inertness due to its straight chain molecular structure • excellent oil-binding abilities for rich butter textures • film-forming properties and an elegant and smooth skin feel without silicones* • improved viscosity, gloss and whiteness of emulsions • skin hydration** • hypoallergenic.

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

** Clinical study: Skin hydration

[Cirebelle] Hydrating Sweet Flora Exfoliating Cream Cleanser

Ingredient

INCI

Ad to 100

D.I Water

Aqua

5.0

CireNat Extract Bulbine

Bulbine Frutescens Leaf Juice, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

3.0

Glycerin

4.0

Kaolin

2.0

Titanium Dioxide

8.0

Milcoside 304

Decyl Glucoside

3.0

Crodateric CAS 50

Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine

5.0

CireBase LB55

2.0

CireBase LB55 can be used in various applications, including lotions, cream, butters, wash-off products (i.e. surfactant systems), baby care and sun care products.

Stearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Synthetic Wax (and) PEG-150 Distearate (and) Isohexadecene

PEG 40-HCO

Hydrogenated Castor Oil

0.5

Energy-efficient cold processing

Fragrance

Perfume

CireNat Rice Bran spheres Red

Oriza Sativa (Rice Bran) wax (and) CI 73360

2.0

Microcare PEHG

Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol

0.5

Glucamate VLT Thickener

PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate (and) Propanediol

1.5

Phase A

The features and benefits of CireBase LB55 • petroleum-free • silicone-free • non-irritant • self-thickening without the use of gums and guars • cold-process • elegant, smooth skin feel • glossy premium finish • versatility in formulations.

In addition to offering formulation benefits, the low melting point property of LB55 provides manufacturers with a unique energysaving advantage in that it can be used in cold processing. In a simple three-phase process, you can – for example – create a lotion base, using only three ingredients, such as LB55, deionised water and a preservative. •

www.cirebelle.co.za

Manufacturing instructions: Heat water to ~50˚C and add phase A ingredients in the order listed; stir until homogenous. Melt LB55 and pre-mix phase B ingredients. Add phase B to phase A and homogenise with a high-shear mixer. Add phase C to the batch and mix using an overhead stirrer.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[CJP Chemicals]

LEADING THROUGH EXCELLENCE AND INNOVATION IN THE SUPPLY CHAIN CJP Chemicals’ personal care and pharma division offers a comprehensive range of innovative ingredients which deliver ease-of-use, technical performance and efficacy to its customers’ formulations. This division also offers class-leading ingredients and formulation technologies for home care products.

JP Chemicals has a proud history in Southern Africa and is committed to providing excellence and innovation to its customers and principals. The company represents a wide variety of leading international manufacturers of personal care, pharmaceutical and home care ingredients.

Sun care solutions from Seppic Seppic is an expert in the fields of active ingredients, textures and the creation of new concepts. This supplier puts its know-how to work for cosmetics players and captures new trends around the globe. Seppic offers a complete range of ingredients, such as actives, thickeners, emulsifiers, emollients, and texturising and foaming agents through its multiexpertise platform which utilises cell biology, cutaneous biology, biochemistry, chemistry, plant extraction, biotechnology, formulation, analysis and toxicology. In just a few years, sun protection has become the most controversial cosmetic market. Some studies have shown that sunscreens contribute to coral bleaching, most of the chemical filters are currently being evaluated for their potential endocrine disrupting effect, nano-sized particles’ effect on health remain unknown and non-nano mineral filters remain difficult to formulate. Sun care products are nevertheless still essential to preserve population skin’s sun capital, what is a true public health challenge. The problem may appear intractable, since no ideal solution emerges. However, different formulation strategies can be implemented in order to obtain the best compromise between product efficacy, consumer safety and environmental protection. Seppic suggests a water-resistant inorganic sunscreen SPF30 (US20112), featured in Table 1, which will avoid the spread of the UV filters in marine environments while guaranteeing a homogeneous application on skin for optimal

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

protection. The formulation contains Sensanov WR, a phosphate anionic emulsifier which creates a light and easily-spreadable sun care product. It provides a light skin-feel followed by the sensation of a matte, velvety veil that slowly envelops the skin. The unique film-forming chemistry of the emulsifier offers waterresistant properties ideal for the development of sun care formulations. Emosmart L19, a high-purity, non-polar and readily-biodegradable emollient, shows excellent compatibility with all types of oils and helps to disperse minerals (TiO2/ZnO). It gives a fresh and vanishing texture with a matte after-feel. Sepinov EMT 10 thickens and stabilises the emulsion while providing glide-on freshness and a satiny skin-feel. Table 1: Water-resistant inorganic sunscreen SPF30 (US20112)

Phase Ingredient A

Aqua/Water

% to 100

Glycerine

3.0

Sodium Hydroxide Solution 25% (w/w)

0.2

Emosmart L19

8.0

Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate

9.0

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

8.0

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

1.0

Zinc Oxide

10.0

Titanium Dioxide (and) Alumina (and) Stearic Acid

10.0

Sensanov WR

Sepinov EMT 10

Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin

2.0 0.25 1.0

Process: For a lab scale batch of 300g, combine phase B ingredients and heat the mixture up to 40°C to melt the polyhydroxystearic acid. Add phase C ingredients one by one into B while homogenising at 5 000rpm. Once phase C is added, homogenise at high shear for a few more minutes if needed. When phases B and C are properly dispersed and uniformed, stop homogenising and add phase D while heating to 85°C. Heat the aqueous phase (A) to 85°C. Heat up the oily phase (B+C+D) to 85°C, then add phase E. Combine oily and aqueous phases together and homogenise at 4 000rpm for four minutes. Cool down the batch to 60°C with low shear mixing and add phase F, then cool down the batch to room temperature.

[CJP Chemicals] CONNECT WITH IOI OLEO ON SOCIAL MEDIA For interactive video content on the supplier’s natural-based oleo-specialty ingredients. @ioi_oleo_care_studio on TikTok

Touching technologies from IOI Oleo IOI Oleo GmbH invents, develops, produces and sells natural-based oleo-specialty ingredients. Since 1912, IOI Oleo is a long-term reliable partner with strong brands, including Imwitor, Miglyol, Softigen, Softisan, Dynasan, and Witarix – for made-in-Germany quality ingredients that inspire trust for use in cosmetic, pharmaceutical and nutrition applications. The company’s broad portfolio of natural emollients, emulsifiers and multi-functionals makes IOI Oleo a creative and innovative partner for both modern and nature-based cosmetic formulators. With the help of the CARE Studio, IOI Oleo’s in-house application laboratory, it accompanies formulators on their choices from technical dossiers to sensorial wishes to finalise their signature touch formula. In an emotion-driven market, IOI Oleo’s safe and sustainable solutions offer formulators the best support to pick the best story, performance and sensory profile needed for a concept. All of this occurs in constant and transparent respect of nature. IOI Oleo recently relaunched Miglyol 8810, a water-light, fast-spreading and natural-based vegan emollient for improved formulas. This high-polarity emollient eases solubilising of chemical UV-filters and contributes to enhanced SPF retention. Its high polarity is also great for dispersing pigments in any type of colour cosmetics formulation. It has also relaunched Softisan 649, a vegan, all-purpose product offering a highly substantive protecting film for an improved skin barrier. The unique chemical structure of this safe and widely-used ingredient gives it water-resistance and water-binding capacities. It also provides a smooth and caring sensation for highperformance cosmetics.

CARE Studio by IOI Oleo on YouTube

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[CJP Chemicals] Sharon Laboratories’ preservative solutions for sensitive skin Sharon Laboratories is a global manufacturer of preservative solutions for personal care products. Sharon Laboratories’ accumulated knowledge and know-how has allowed it to formulate a wide variety of innovative and highly successful products, providing solutions for the entire personal care industry, including skin care, sun care, baby care, wipes and more, meeting industry and consumer trends. The market for sensitive skin products is on the rise, coupled with the challenges formulators face when preserving these products. Alternatives to classic preservatives are often too mild and at high concentration they pose a problem to sensitive skin. Preservatives are a fundamental part of a formula since they guarantee the safety of the consumer. They inhibit the growth of bacteria, mould, and fungi, even after the product has been opened and exposed to the elements and during use. Inappropriate preservation of a formula poses serious health risks beyond sensitive skin. The industry has struggled to bring efficient alternatives to the market to cater the needs of sensitive skin. Cosmetic brands facing consumer feedback linked to skin irritation issues are challenging suppliers of preservative systems to adapt to this need. Sharon Laboratories, known for its innovative preservation solutions for more than 40 years, has developed two lines that answer preservation needs for sensitive skin product applications. Sharomix Amplify and SharoSense Plus offer the following benefits: • low level of use • broad spectrum • compatibility in anionic, cationic and non-ionic formulas • non-pH-dependant. With the growing demand for sensitive skin care formulations, these solutions offer full protection, without compromising on skin sensitivity.

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Table 2: Hydrating creamy liquid soap

Phase Ingredients A

Function

Water, demineralised

w/w Qs to 100

Sodium Trideceth Sulfate & Sodium Lauroamphoacetate & Cocamide DEA

Surfactants

20.00

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Melissa Officinalis seed Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Lavendula Angustifolia Oil

Moisturising, anti-stress, relaxing, skin conditioning

8.00

Glycerin

Humectant

0.50

Guar gum

Thickener

0.30

BHT

Anti-oxidant

0.05

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

Conditioning

0.50

Sharomix AM24 Methylpropanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyquaternium-80, Didecyldimonium Chloride

Preservative solution

Sodium chloride solution 3%

Stabiliser

Citric acid (50%)

pH adjuster

0.70

15.00 Qs

Process: 1. Pre-mix phase B ingredients in a separate tank. 2. In the main vessel, load water and surfactants. Mix slowly (150 rpm) until homogenous. 3. Increase mixing speed to 300 rpm, and slowly add pre-mixed phase B. 4. Keep high speed mixing for another 10 minutes. 5. Decrease mixing speed 150 rpm. 6. Add the sodium chloride solution while stirring. 7. Adjust the pH to 6 to 7.

Sensitive skin: a growing category

[CJP Chemicals] Table 3: Foundation

Phase

Raw Material

Premix

Water

Preservatives (EDTA)

0.5

Rheology Modifier (Carbopol)

0.5

Premix

New esters from IOI Esterchem Beauty evolves in line with the sophistication of science and technology. The emergence of new ingredients has sent beauty aficionados on a celebratory and frenzy mode as they create more ways to explore beauty on different spectrum. Take esters for example, a theoretically simple esterification process produces derivatives which have the full potential to be used in personal care and colour cosmetics formulations. One ester worth paying attention to is Ethyl Hexyl, which IOI Esterchem, Malaysia is proud of having produced. It is available in two variants, namely Ethyl Hexyl Palmitate (EHP) and Ethyl Hexyl Stearate (EHS). Both variants possess excellent emollient properties which impart better hydration and retain moisture, subsequently maintaining skin’s natural moisture reservoir. Their ability to lubricate anything that comes in contact with the skin improves the penetration and enhances the absorption of active ingredients for excellent efficacy. These esters are also advantageous when used in colour cosmetics formulations where different pigments are incorporated and the interfacial tension between the pigments needs to be reduced for efficient blending. The versatility of these two esters makes them suitable for use in different applications such as hair care (shampoos and conditioners), creambased products and colour cosmetics that set current beauty trends. The esters have dry-slip feel that is similar to the texture of a silicone, so they are justifiably deemed to be a good organic replacement for

Premix

Gram

Glycerine

Isopropyl Myristate/Isopropyl Palmitate

Butylene Glycol/Propylene Glycol

Dimethicone

Mineral Oil

Glyceryl Mono Stearate 40 (self-emulsifying)

Glyceryl Mono Stearate 40 (non-self-emulsifying)

Water

Actives

Colour Agent

Spreading Agent (medium chain Triglycerides 60/40)

* A foundation is quite a complex formulation because you have to take account the factors of emulsion and colour. * Because a pigmented powder of a different colour is used such as iron oxide yellow, or zinc oxide and melanin, a good spreading agent must be added to incorporate all of them. * This formulation is merely a guideline; IOI Esterchem cannot be held liable for any issues arising from the formulation.

silicones. They are non-comedogenic when compared to silicones and other heavy oils. While these two esters might be new, for apparent reasons, formulators are already experimenting with them on to embark on a new experience of advanced cosmetics formulations. •

“CJP Chemicals has a proud history in Southern Africa and is committed to providing excellence and innovation to its customers and principals”

CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[ Eco Products]

BRING LIFE TO YOUR FORMULATIONS

with baobab oil Botanical oils from Africa, particularly baobab oil, are trending natural ingredients in the cosmetics industry. Although it’s been around for centuries, baobab oil has only recently become a popular beauty ingredient. This article looks at some of the many reasons why.

aobab oil, with its lengthy history, is produced locally by EcoProducts. Apart from it being a botanical oil with a great story around biodiversity and social development, arguably the biggest benefit of baobab is its many uses. It can be used as a key ingredient in skin and hair care products or it can be used alone in small amounts as a rich and nourishing treatment. Often referred to as the ‘tree of life’, the baobab tree is native to Africa. These trees live for over 1 000 years, which is how they earned their highly-fitting nickname. Part of the appeal of baobab is that the pulp of its fruit – extracted from baobab pods and then transformed into raw powder – has been a favoured ingredient in wellness and beauty treatments for many years. More recently, the beauty industry has turned its attention to the oil, which is extracted from baobab seeds. According to a technical paper entitled ‘Beauty in Baobab: A Pilot Study of the Safety and Efficacy of Adansonia digitata Seed Oil’, authored by Baatile Komane, Ilze Vermaak, Guy Kamatou, Beverley Summers and Alvaro Viljoen, and published in the Brazilian Journal of Pharmacognosy, about 5% of the seed content

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is oil – with oleic, linoleic and palmitic acids as the major fatty acids. The high content of linoleic and oleic acids is known to soften the skin and restore and moisturise the epidermis. In addition, the fatty acids regenerate epithelial tissues, which makes the seed oil a very good carrier oil that is of value to the cosmetics industry.

Pilot study with promising results As documented in the Komane technical article, baobab oil, liquid paraffin, a market-leading intensive care lotion and a market-leading petroleum jelly were tested in comparison for their effect on TEWL, moisture retention (hydration) and skin barrier function (occlusive) properties. Baobab oil and liquid paraffin exhibited similar skin recovery properties. Baobab oil is well-known for its non-siccative (non-drying) property which renders it a suitable cosmetic oil for the prevention of skin dryness. The small molecular structure of the oil results in rapid absorption while palmitic and oleic acids have been reported to be effective percutaneous absorption enhancers. It was further reported that linoleic acid (36.0% in the test sample) is the most frequently used fatty acid in cosmetic

[ Eco Products] products as it moisturises the skin and aids in the healing process of dermatoses and sunburns.

An oil with good cosmetic potential Seed oils are an important component of many plants and currently play a significant role in both the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. Baobab seed oil is one such ingredient, which has rapidly gained popularity on the global market and is highly regarded by researchers in the field of ethnobotany and ethnopharmacology, particularly for its cosmetic benefits. The pilot study detailed in the Komane technical article aimed to elaborate on the scientific confirmation that baobab oil has good cosmetic potential with its non-irritating, hydrating, moisturising and occluding benefit on the skin. In addition, the unique ratio of saturated and unsaturated fatty acid

“The high content of linoleic and oleic acids is known to soften the skin and restore and moisturise the epidermis”

Did you know Baobab oil is the go-to multi-tasking mama of all botanical oils, helping to nourish dry, flaky skin; soothe sunburn; and calm skin irritations. This rich golden-amber oil absorbs quickly to hydrate and soften the skin. It is proven safe for the entire family, even on baby’s sensitive skin, and is safe for use during pregnancy. It’s also ideal in hair care products, such as Pantene’s Nutrient Blends range, which includes a Hydrating Glow shampoo formulated with baobab essence as a key ingredient.

present in the oil renders it an oil which may have pharmacological properties that could be highly significant in the cosmetic industry when applied topically.

A great story of biodiversity Baobab trees are iconic trees in Africa. They are not only a source of food, fibre and medicine to thousands of people across the continent, but also provide homes to many animals, birds and insects. Baobabs produce a hard, capsule-like fruit that takes six months to mature before it drops off the tree and is ready to be eaten. Baobab flowers are magnificent saucer-shaped flowers that only open at night and last 12 hours before they die and are pollinated by bats and hawkmoths. Baobabs are resilient trees occurring in wide habitats right across Africa and contributing to the continent’s immense biodiversity. The business of EcoProducts is centred entirely on these magical trees. The company was founded in 2006 by Dr Sarah Venter, who had a vision to start an organisation that would work to support rural communities and biodiversity alike. Over the last 15 years, WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[ Eco Products] EcoProducts has grown into a successful business, with an annual production volume of over 80MT of organic baobab powder for the food industry and 10MT of baobab oil for the cosmetics industry. EcoProducts now supports up to 1 500 rural harvesters a year and employs up to 50 people in the processing of the fruit. Dr Venter also established the Baobab Foundation, a non-profit organisation, which supports the replanting of trees, biodiversity research, environmental education and preschools for the communities that live around baobabs. •

POSSIBLE COSMETIC CLAIMS Baobab oil has been tested for its efficacy in several skin care applications. When formulating with baobab oil, the following cosmetic claims may be possible – though they are application and quantity specific: • hydrates the skin • moisturises the skin • increases skin elasticity • reduces skin temperature • optimises skin pH • non-irritating • fragrance-free • improves the skin’s barrier function • protective, nourishing and soothing • restores skin barrier function of dry skin • reduces the appearance of wrinkles • maintains skin barrier function.

Baobab Foundation – www.baobabfoundation.co.za EcoProducts – w w w.ecoproducts.co.za

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

[ Essential Specialised Products]

THE RISE OF

vegan beauty products Consumer awareness shapes the beauty industry as formulators adapt to a global push for vegan, natural and sustainable innovations. Environmental impact, ingredient origins and social responsibility issues shift consumer perception to quality, traceable products.

eauty regimens have the potential to expose consumers to a variety of toxic and unpleasant chemicals, with small doses adding up to harmful possibilities. As formulators and brands explore dependable options, organic and natural formulations are increasing in demand. Inspired by nature, Arbor Organic Technologies, represented locally by Essential Specialised Products (ESP), provides a range of value-adding ingredients. Veganism, once considered a niche concept, has now become mainstream. As consumers become more concerned about sustainable living, they are becoming increasingly aware of the ingredients and production methods behind their favourite products. Today’s consumers are more knowledgeable and have a wide variety of product options to choose from and an abundance of information at hand when deciding. This demand for anything vegan is making other industries take notice, especially the beauty industry.

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Unclear terminology defined There is a lot of confusing jargon around vegan beauty terminology – ‘cruelty-free’ is one example, with many people believing that vegan beauty and cruelty-free are one and the same. Simply put, vegan beauty means the absence of animal-derived ingredients or by-products, while cruelty-free refers to a product that is not tested on animals. In other words, it is possible for a vegan item to have been tested on an animal and a cruelty-free product to contain animal ingredients. Common animal-derived ingredients found in beauty products include honey, beeswax, lanolin (wool grease), squalene (shark liver oil), carmine (crushed-up beetles), gelatine (cow or pig bones, tendons, or ligaments), allantoin (cow urine), ambergris (whale vomit) and placenta (sheep organs). While these ingredients are harmless, they are not necessarily better for consumer products. The thought of these animal products being

[ Essential Specialised Products] Table 1: Dry shampoo aerosol prototype formulation

Phase

Ingredient

INCI

SD Alcohol 40-B

19.0

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate

2.00

22011 AC Rice Starch Powder

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch

1.00

Pentylene Glycol

1.00

11334LZN ABC Rhodiola Extract AQ ECT

Water & Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract

0.50

11613PF ABS Yuzu Extract BG PF

Butylene Glycol & Citrus Junos Seed Extract

0.50

21005PF AC Biopolymer Chia PF

Coconut Acid & Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract

0.50

11301LNZ AC Hair & Scalp Complex

Water & Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract & Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract & Betaine & Hexylene Glycol & Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract & Camellia Sinersis Leaf Extract & Hexapeptide-11

0.50

Isopropyl Myristate

0.20

A30003 Organic Hemp Oil

Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil

0.10

20964 AC Vegan Keratin OS

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil & Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Seed Extract & Hydrolysed Cicer Seed Extract & Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract

1.00

ESP D5

Cyclopentasiloxane

0.50

Fragrance

0.20

Rice NS

Dimethylimidazolidinone Rice Starch

5.00

A-46

Isobutane – Propane

found in moisturisers, cosmetics and shampoos may also be a deterrent.

Ethical consumption and ingredient scrutiny Consumers are also demonstrating a marked aversion to chemical-based beauty products, owing to safety reasons, and are drawn towards products that are deemed ‘clean’, ‘natural’ and ‘safe’. This comment is an argument for another day, as the word ‘chemical’ is controversial and if all chemicals were removed from a beauty product – what would be left! A healthy planet and great skin care products mutually exist in the contemporary consumer’s mind, and indeed in their world of consumption. Ethical products made from natural ingredients must also be effective and not compromise on delivering sought-after benefits. Consumers are actively seeking cruelty-free and plant-based products inspired by ethicallyled choices, which includes their personal care product choices. This is creating countless opportunities for the manufacturers of vegan beauty products. One of the biggest positives to come out of the vegan beauty movement is that it is encouraging shoppers to assess ingredients. Consumers are being empowered to question the research and

% w/w

68.00

Process: 1. Add SD alcohol into the tank. Disperse Phase A solids into alcohol and homogenise/mix thoroughly until uniform. 2. Add Phase B ingredients separately and continue mixing until homogeneous. 3. Add Phase C ingredients separately and continue mixing until homogeneous. 4. Add Phase D in increments with thorough mixing for 15 minutes. 5. Fill cans and charge with the Phase E propellant.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[ Essential Specialised Products] claims that are made about their products. All the signs point to an industry that is working toward being not only cleaner, but also vegan and cruelty-free. The future of the beauty industry is indeed vegan and not animal-tested.

Vegan keratin alternative Active Concepts, represented locally by ESP, continually strives to meet the ethos of the new-age consumer and the rising trend of vegan beauty. This trend has inspired the development of new functional equivalents from botanical sources. An ingredient in the spotlight is keratin. Hydrolysed keratin, while naturally derived, has conventionally been prepared from keratin-containing animal parts including feathers, wool and hair. Active Concepts meets the ethos of the new-age consumer with AC Vegan Keratin OS, a vegan and sustainable hydrolysed keratin alternative in an oil-soluble form. Table 1 showcases AC Vegan Keratin OS in a dry shampoo aerosol prototype formulation. Chickpea, lentil and quinoa are superfoods that are plentiful in nature and provide an easily accessible path to mimic the amino acid composition of hydrolysed animal keratin. The selective combination of quinoa, lentil and chickpea peptides in an apricot oil base provides a plantbased, non-GMO, gluten-free functional equivalent to oil-soluble hydrolysed keratin. AC Vegan Keratin OS offers hair care brands and manufacturers a sustainable, accountable and effective solution for hair smoothing and hydration claims. BENEFITS AND GUIDELINES OF AC VEGAN KERATIN OS • increases hair hydration • reduces hair frizz • improves wet and dry combability

Figure 1: Results of the hair hydration gravimetric analysis on AC Vegan Keratin OS

“The future of the beauty industry is indeed vegan and not animal-tested” A gravimetric analysis was performed to assess its hydrating ability on the hair and to determine if AC Vegan Keratin OS could provide benefits comparable to animalderived keratin. The results shown in Figure 1 indicate that it can maintain hair hydration, comparable to animal (sheep’s wool)-derived hydrolysed keratin after an equivalent and controlled drying time. •

• suitable for use in anhydrous products • added to the oil phase of an emulsion • suggested use level is 1.0% to 10.0% • temperature stable up to 70°C • pH-stability ranges from 4 to 7.

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Essential Specialised Products – www.esp-sa.co.za

ACTIVE CONCEPTS HAS A WIDE RANGE OF VEGAN, ETHICALLY SOURCED, AND SUSTAINABLE INGREDIENTS AVAILABLE. AS THEIR PREFERRED PARTNER, CONTACT ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS FOR MORE INFORMATION.

INGREDIENTS FOR THE ETHICALLY AND ECOCONSCIOUS CONSUMER. JOIN THE SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY MOVEMENT.

HAIR CARE

SKIN CARE

BODY CARE

SPA CARE

ESP-SA.CO.ZA admin@esp-sa.co.za +27 10 595 9690

[ Merck]

ONE-STOP SHOPPING AT ITS BEST The manufacturing environment has become such a busy place in recent years. Formulators and NPD teams are under pressure to provide new products and innovative concepts in record time. What if there was a supplier who could provide innovative and effective ingredients all in one place? Here is a small preview of the vast range Merck has to offer. Special effect pigments Ethereal mother of pearl effects are daily occurrences – when light catches a soap bubble, on the inside of a seashell and the shimmer of fish scales or a string of pearls. Pearlescent pigments mimic these effects and can be used to make lipsticks, nail polishes and eye shadows shimmer with a thousand colors. Effect pigments are not only used in decorative cosmetics but also in liquid soaps, shower gels and shampoos to enhance their appearance and add a remarkable shimmer. When added to face and body products, these pigments create a soft, radiant glow on the skin which doesn’t go unnoticed. Merck’s extensive product range encompassing the Timiron, Colorona, Xirona and Ronastar brands allows you to achieve amazing effects – from pearly and metallic sheens, shimmers and sparkles, to those elusive colour travel effects that change colour depending on the angle of the incidental light. Click here to learn more: https://bit.ly/3uBTeTE.

Skin perfection Active ingredients are a cornerstone of the cosmetics business. The RonaCare group of raw materials each has specialised modes of action in anti-wrinkle, moisturising, soothing, anticellulite and whitening properties. Many of the products in this range are inspired by nature – Merck observes the natural world and transfers solutions to the cosmetics industry. RonaCare RenouMer is a prime example of a product inspired by nature. The secret of the success of this active substance lies within the cytoplasm of the red marine algae sustainably harvested along the coast of Brittany. RenouMer is based on a nutritional cytoplasmic extract and has revitalising and moisturising properties which delay the visible onset of skin ageing. RonaCare Ectoin comes with a whole host of unique properties and claims. This substance is

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

produced in nature by a living bacterium found in salt lakes and deserts, the ectoine in the cell is what ensures the survival of these bacteria even though they are exposed to high doses of UV radiation and massive fluctuations in temperature. Extensive research has shown that RonaCare Ectoin has similar protective effects on human skin – protecting it against unfavourable external factors. Click on the link to find out more about this amazing ingredient or explore the rest of Merck’s portfolio of active ingredients, all of which have been tested and proven effective: https://bit.ly/3rZUWg9.

Light protection and tanning We all know that using cosmetics with UV filters is essential. Merck’s extensive Eusolex portfolio covers organic, inorganic and encapsulated UV filters which provide formulators with peace of mind and the power of choice to design cosmetics that protect the skin against the harmful effects of UV radiation. Modern cosmetic sunscreens should contain not only UV filters, but also effective antioxidants to

[ Merck] neutralise the free radicals generated by UV, blue light and infrared light. Merck offers a selection of powerful antioxidants that can do just this, protecting skin against sunlight and pollutioninduced damage. Nothing rejuvenates the appearance like a natural glow. A healthy tan without the risk of sun exposure is possible thanks to safe and effective bronzing substances in the Merck portfolio. Click here to learn more: https://bit.ly/2Qb3N15. Because precious formulations also deserve protection, Merck offers solutions in the Oxynex range which effectively protect cosmetic formulations against deterioration. Click here to learn more: https://bit.ly/3uCgv7Z.

Insect repellent Insect Repellent IR3535 is an active ingredient used to shield people against the bites of mosquitoes, ticks, flies and lice. It has been proven safe for use in products targeting all ages, from babies to geriatrics. Since IR3535 is a non-toxic ingredient with a very similar structure to molecules occurring in nature, it won’t damage the environment or fragile ecosystems. It is suitable for all types of formulations, from gels to pump sprays, aerosols and lotions and can be applied on the skin to protect against those pesky mosquitos, or on the hair to repel headlice and even in products to protect our beloved pets too. Click here to learn more: https://bit.ly/3wz7cb3.

Perfect in every way Increasingly, consumers expect that their cosmetics offer them more than just an attractive, fashionable colour or a pleasant fragrance. They want products to be easy to apply, long lasting, to instantly mask wrinkles and other imperfections, and to give them the effect of a fresh and rested complexion. RonaFlair functional fillers are the perfect tool to ensure your product gives consumers what they want, instantly. Click here to learn more: https://bit.ly/3dPM87D. Whether it is skin perfection or stunning effects, there is a solution from Merck waiting to be explored. Merck also offers formulation support, trend forecasts, analysis, and much more – just ask the experts. •

HERE ARE SOME EXAMPLES OF MERCK’S INNOVATIVE, READY-TO-USE FORMULATIONS Natural mineral sunscreen for kids SPF 25

Phase Ingredients A

INCI

Montanov S

Coco-Glucoside, Coconut Alcohol

3.00

Jojoba Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

10.50

Montanov 202

Arachidyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Behenyl Alcohol

1.00

LexFeel Natural

Heptyl Undecylenate

6.00

Zinc Oxide

5.50

RonaCare Zinc Oxide

Water, demineralised Glycerol anhydrous (vegetable) Emprove bio

Art. No.

1.30148

Aqua 1.37028 Glycerin

58.50 4.00

Avicel PC 611

Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum

1.00

Rhodicare XC

Xanthan Gum

0.20

Eusolex T-AVO

Preservatives

1.05335 Titanium Dioxide (Nano), Silica

10.00 q.s.

Process: Disperse Avicel PC 611 and Rhodicare XC in phase B and stir until homogeneous. Disperse A1 in phase A and B1 in phase B. Heat up both phases to 80°C. Add phase A to B. Homogenise using an Ultra-Turrax for 1.5 minutes at 9 500 rpm. Cool down to room temperature while stirring. Add phase C below 40°C.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[ Merck]

“Nothing rejuvenates the appearance like a natural glow ” Dew drop eye cream-gel Phase

Ingredients

Art. No.

INCI

RonaCare Ectoin IQ

1.32400

Ectoin

0.50

RonaCare Allantoin

1.01015

Allantoin

0.20

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin

1.00

Glycerin, Aqua

3.00

Aqua

Add 100

Lecigel Glycerol 85%

1.04091

Water, demineralised B

RonaCare Poppy SE

1.32149

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Papaver Rhoeas Extract, Tocopherol

2.00

Oxynex L-CV Liquid

1.32330

Alcohol, Tocopherol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride,

0.05

Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid Isostearyl Isostearate

Isostearyl Isostearate

Preservatives C D

2.00 2.00

RonaFlair Balance Gold

1.17734

CI 77891, Mica, Tin Oxide

2.00

RonaFlair LDP White

1.17755

Sodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate, CI 77891, Silica

1.00

RonaCare Sodium Hydroxide Solution 32%

1.32287

Aqua, Sodium Hydroxide

q.s.

Process: Solubilise RonaCare Allantoin and RonaCare Ectoin IQ in water and glycerin. Sprinkle Lecigel and stir at high speed for about 15 minutes. Add slowly premixed phase B and stir at high speed for about 10 minutes. Add phase C and stir until all the fillers are well-dispersed. Add phase D to adjust pH to between 6.5 and 7.

Natural eyeshadow balm – golden bronze Phase

Ingredients

Art.

INCI

No. A

Colorona Bronze Fine

1.17384

Mica, CI 77491

19.65

Colorona Tangerine Orange

1.17089

Mica, CI 77491, CI 77891

19.65

RonaFlair Flawless

1.17789

Silica, CI 77891, CI 77491

14.40

RonaFlair White Sapphire

1.17751

Alumina (or alternatively: Synthetic Sapphire)

3.50

RonaFlair Softshade

1.17731

CI 77891, Mica, Silica, Alumina

3.50

Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Rhus

4.40

2225 Phyto Wax

Verniciflua Peel Cera/Rhus Succedanea Fruit Cera, Shorea Robusta Resin Biophilic H

Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C12-16 Alcohols

Emogreen L15

C15-19 Alkane

13.00

2.20

Cetiol CC

Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Tocopherol

12.70

Cetiol C5

Coco-Caprylate, Tocopherol

7.00

Process: Prepare phase B and heat it to 80°C. Add phase A slowly and mix until all pigments and fillers are well-dispersed. At 80°C, pour the paste into suitable packaging and let it cool down to room temperature.

Merck – www.merckgroup.com

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

[Solvay]

GIVE TEXTURED HAIR A BOOST WITH NATURAL REPAIR INGREDIENTS As the demand grows for textured hair care products, formulators will need to continue to develop effective methods to address the specific needs of this type of hair. Hair has been and still remains a strong social symbol amplified by the growing natural hair care movement and the desire to reconnect with cultural identity.

edicated options are limited, leaving consumers with textured hair struggling to find trustworthy, mainstream brands that can offer tailored solutions. Among the challenges that textured hair poses is dryness resulting from the hair’s intrinsic curl pattern, elevated cuticles, lower sebum secretion and its limited spreading along the shaft. Textured hair can also be challenging to nourish and treat due to its high ellipticity, curliness and structural delicacy. These unique characteristics call for the specially designed and formulated solutions that Solvay can provide.

Solvay combines its strategic positioning with its access to recognised experts and its relationships with innovative partnerships, working hand-inhand with salons and formulators to advance the production, testing and evaluation of the next generation of textured hair care products. Solvay has cracked the code for creating formulas designed to keep hair healthy, drawing from a full palette of hair repair ingredients that includes Jaguar C162, Mackpro Plus Rice C and Polycare Split Therapy. Jaguar C162 provides combing, conditioning and softness to even the most damaged hair. The attributes of Mackpro Plus Rice C deliver shiny, healthy and beautiful long hair, while Polycare Split Therapy secures the full, long-lasting sealing of the splits. These natural repair ingredients also nourish and care for the fibre, from root to tip.

A bio-based conditioning solution Consumers no longer have to choose between a lower-performing, ecofriendly solution and an effective, yet conventional product. Formulators can use Jaguar C162 to easily create different products targeting all types of hair while fulfilling the two most critical consumer expectations: 1. performance 2. a natural solution that offers a wholesome, nude feel.

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

[Solvay] The light-conditioning properties of Jaguar C162 meet consumers’ needs for optimising the intrinsic nature of their own hair and enabling selfexpression through products designed as ‘just for me’. When combined with plant oils, ester oils or silicones in both clear and opaque formulations, this unique guar polymer can also address damaged and over-processed hair. Jaguar C162 offers a best-in-class ability to deposit silicones on over-processed hair, making it an ideal choice for addressing this specific concern. Discover Solvay’s velvet curl cream formulation featured in Table 1. This care and styling hybrid product is formulated with Jaguar C162 and provides durable hydration, facilitates styling and structures the hair curl. Table 1: Velvet curl cream

Phase

Ingredient

C16-C18 Cetearyl Alcohol

Mackester GS100 Glyceryl stearate & PEG-100 Stearate

Jaguar C162 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

Fentacare 2231 MS I 90 Behentrimonium Methosulfate Water C

Preservative

% as supplied

0.6 Qs to 100 Qs

Process: 1. Weigh all the ingredients of the oily phase (B) and aqueous phase (A) in two separate closed beakers. 2. Heat phase A and phase B to 65°C to 70°C for 15 minutes under stirring at 350 rpm. 3. After 10 minutes, add the guar in A by increasing the agitation of the water phase to 600 rpm and sprinkling the guar derivative. Continue stirring during five minutes at 65°C to 70°C. 4. Turn off the source of heat and add part B (oil phase) to part A under vigorous mixing at 900 rpm while homogenising for at least 10 minutes. 5. Reduce the mixing speed to 700 rpm during the cooling phase and add the preservative. Mix until uniform for 15 minutes.

SOLVAY’S COMMITMENT TO SUSTAINABILITY The company combines its dedication to engineering the most advanced hair care solutions with a passion for creating sustainable materials for natural hair care products. Solvay’s range of guar polymers are bio-based and naturally derived from guar seeds that are sustainably sourced in India through Solvay’s Sustainable Guar Initiative programme. The company is proud to partner with guar farmers and empowers them with tools and knowledge to encourage sustainable farming practices, which result in more continuous, highyield production.

A powerful vegan quaternised protein Mackpro Plus Rice C uses technology derived from rice – an ancient and valued food staple that resonates with certain beauty rituals in the Asian culture. This gluten-free quaternised protein provides conditioning to damaged, dry and textured hair and helps enhance hair longevity. It provides formulators with an answer to the call for vegan and cruelty-free ingredients and serves as an ideal alternative to quaternised keratin and quaternised wheat proteins. Solvay has designed a tailored routine of 10 products specifically for textured hair. The routine includes an eco-friendly conditioning formula (see Table 2), which showcases the benefits of Mackpro Plus Rice C and its ability to make styling easier, to structure the curl and provide durable hydration that keeps the follicles in good health. Table 2: Eco-friendly conditioner

Ingredient

% as supplied

Cetearyl Alcohol

Mackester GSV Glycol Stearate

Shea Butter

Mackine 301U MB Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine

Deionised Water

Qs to 100

Lactic Acid at 85%

0.8

Mackaderm LIA MB Isoamyl Laurate

Mackpro Plus Rice C Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolysed Rice Protein

2.5

Sodium Benzoate

1.1

Tocopherol

0.1

Citric Acid or Lactic Acid

To pH 4

Process: 1. Heat the water and Mackine 301U MB (phase A) at 75°C in a closed beaker for 10 minutes. Add lactic acid while stirring. 2. Heat the Cetearyl Alcohol, Mackester GSV and Shea Butter (phase B) up to a maximum of 75°C for 10 minutes. 3. Remove the closed beaker from the heating bath and add the oily phase (B) into the aqueous phase (A) under vigorous mixing at 500 rpm to 800 rpm for 10 minutes. 4. Reduce the mixing rate for the cooling phase to 350 rpm and after 20 minutes add the preservative. 5. 20 minutes later, add Mackaderm LIA MB under 350 rpm and keep stirring. 6. Six to 10 minutes later, add Mackpro Plus Rice C. 7. Add Tocopherol and keep stirring for five minutes. 8. Adjust the pH to 4.0 to 4.5 with a Citric Acid or Lactic Acid solution. 9. If necessary, compensate for water loss.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[Solvay] Full split reparation for long and healthy hair Trimming is no longer the only fix for repairing damaged hair. Polycare Split Therapy keeps hair long and strong by delivering long-lasting sealing of split ends, repairing more than 90% after the first use. Formulators can use this bio-sourced ingredient to create holistic split end repair products, such as shampoos, conditioners and serums. Showcased in Table 3, the Solvay deep conditioning mask for curly hair gives a durable full split sealing for shiny, healthy and beautiful long hair thanks to the Polycare Split Therapy. • Table 3: Deep conditioning mask for curly hair

Phase

Ingredient

C16-C18 Cetearyl Alcohol

Mackaderm LIA MB Isoamyl Laurate

Mackester GS100 Glyceryl Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate

Solvay introduces solutions for the textured hair market

% as supplied

Fentacare 2231 MS I 90 Behentrimonium Methosulfate

2.5

Fentacare 2231 EF Behentrimonium Chloride

1.2

Polycare Split Therapy Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

0.8

0.8 Water

Qs to 100

Glycerine

Preservative

Process: 1. Weigh all the ingredients of the oily phase (B) and aqueous phase (A) in two separate closed beakers. 2. Heat each phase up to 65°C to 70°C for 15 minutes while stirring at 350 rpm. 3. After 10 minutes add the guar to phase A by sprinkling the guar derivative while increasing agitation to 600 rpm. Continue stirring for five minutes at 65°C to 70°C. 4. Turn of the source of heat and add part B (oil phase) to part A under vigorous mixing at 900 rpm. Continue to homogenise for at least 10 minutes. 5. Reduce the speed during the cooling phase to 700 rpm and add the preservative and glycerine. Mix until uniform for 15 minutes. 6. Reduce the agitation to 350 rpm and mix for 30 minutes. 7. If necessary, compensate for water loss and pH adjustment.

“Solvay has cracked the code for creating formulas designed to keep hair healthy, drawing from a full palette of hair repair ingredients” Solvay – www.solvay.co.za

46 FORMULATION DESIGN

// WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Excellent Solubilizer Better Stability Excellent Humectant Agent

Hexylene Glycol

Coupling Agent

Biodegradable, widely-used solution for skin care, hair care, color cosmetics and perfumery, Hexylene Glycol (HGL) is widely applied to cosmetics due to humectant, emulsifying and cleansing properties. In Micelar Water formulation, HGL also acts as Hydrotope, improving solubility of the makeup.

INCI Name

Function

Water

90.05

Disodium EDTA

Chelating Agent

0.10

PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides

Surfactant

0.60

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (orange) Fruit Water

Flavoring agent/ Nourishing agent

0.20

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Emulsifier

4.00

Hexylene Glycol

Humectant

5.00

Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexyglycerin

Preservative

0.05

LVP-VOC (US) Low Vapor Pressure Not Harmful to Humans, Animals or Environment

Miscelar Water with better performance Phase

Biodegradable

Procedure 1) Understirring, add the ingredients from phase A, one by one. 2) Premix the ingredients from phase B. 3) Pour phase A into phase B and keep mixing until get a clear emulsion.

KNOW MORE

www.solvay.com

Low Odor

[Savannah Fine Chemicals]

TRULY INCLUSIVE BEAUTY INGREDIENTS FOR DIVERSE FORMULATIONS The challenges experienced by African consumers when it comes to finding suitable skin and hair care products are a powerful reminder of why representation of every form of beauty is so important in the personal care industry. Lipotec Active Ingredients, a Lubrizol Life Science company, has taken the concept of inclusive beauty a step further by testing Ebonitone biotech ingredient on South African volunteers with ethnic skin and by expanding the efficacy profile of Matmarine biotech ingredient to include both local ethnic and men’s skin.

bonitone biotech ingredient was developed by Lipotec Active Ingredients to meet the needs of ethnic skin which often vary greatly from the needs of other skin types. Hyperpigmentation is the result of different overlapping causes, particularly sun exposure. It can occur as a result of the inflammation associated with acne and is known as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Most experts agree that hyperpigmentation is a common problem among consumers with ethnic skin. Their melanin-rich skin is more susceptible to discoloration or the appearance of dark spots, resulting in an uneven colour or skin tone. Many of the products these consumers see advertised or find on shelf might not work for them, because their dark spots are much more pigmented and harder to improve.

Extract targeting hyperpigmentation

with skin phototypes V to VI and with an age range of between 35 and 50 years, who presented with a dull and uneven complexion. The volunteers applied a cream containing 2% Ebonitone biotech ingredient to half of their face and a placebo cream to the other half, twice a day for 56 days. Colorimetric measurements of the skin were taken on the cheek using a spectrophotometer. The luminance (L*) and individual typology angle (ITAº) parameters were determined. After 28 and 56 days of treatment, there were significant increases in skin luminance and in the ITAº, which indicates a lower degree of pigmentation (as seen in Figure 1). Digital photographs of the volunteers show improvement in the skin complexion after treatment with the active cream (see Figure 2). A self-assessment questionnaire completed by the volunteers at the end of the study confirmed their perception of a more luminous and healthy skin glow. These percentages were confirmed by volunteers for the following statements: • 92% agreed it helps to lighten up the skin tone • 80% said it improves skin luminosity • 88% confirmed their skin tone appears more even.

Thanks to its comprehensive mechanism of action, based on the regulation of multiple stages of the pigmentation process, Ebonitone biotech ingredient can even the skin tone with high efficacy even in dark skin phototypes. This biotechnology extract has been tested in vivo on South African volunteers – which is a significant turning point for the cosmetics industry in terms of diversity-focused beauty innovations that are relevant to the needs of local consumers. A clinical test was Figure 1: Results for the L* and the ITAº parameters. Statistical significance vs initial time: ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001. Statistical significance vs placebo for L*: **p<0.01 (28 and 56 performed on a group of 24 days); for ITAº: **p<0.01 (28 days); ***p<0.001 (56 days) African female volunteers,

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

[Savannah Fine Chemicals] A complete efficacy profile In different ethnicities, Matmarine biotech ingredient helps improve the appearance of combination and oily skin while keeping it hydrated. In addition to the initial efficacy studies conducted on Caucasian and Asian individuals, Lipotec Active Ingredients has assessed the ability of the ingredient to decrease shininess and minimise pores in African skin. This in vivo study involved 22 African female volunteers, aged between 18 and 45, with combination to oily skin, ranging in phototype from V to VI. The volunteers either applied a cream containing 3% Matmarine biotech ingredient or a placebo cream to half their face, twice a day for 28 days. Thereafter, skin mattification, moisturisation and pore analysis parameters were evaluated. High resolution digital photographs were taken using the Colorface system while frame scan software was used to analyse the images of the cheek area (close to the nose wing), to determine the coefficient of the visibility of pores after treatment. The results showed that 3% Matmarine biotech ingredient

0 Days

28 Days

56 Days

0 Days

28 Days

56 Days

lowest L*

highest L*

Figure 2: Macroscopic photographs of one volunteer and a luminosity map of another volunteer

significantly minimised pores in African skin by 20.1% (see Figure 3). This expanded efficacy data on all skin types including men’s skin makes Matmarine biotech ingredient a truly inclusive technology for diversity-focused beauty and skin care

CUTTING EDGE TECHNOLOGY WITH SENSORY EXPERTISE WHICH WILL SET YOU APART

RELIABLE – CONSISTENT – SUSTAINABLE – QUALITY DRIVEN

Durban: +27 31 202 0794 Email: info@savannah.co.za

www.savannah.co.za WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[Savannah Fine Chemicals] Table 1: Mattifying and skin tone corrector (development formulation)

Phase

Ingredient

INCI

% w/w

Deionised Water

Aqua

q.s.100

effisin Propanediol

Propanediol

Glycerine

7.00

Versene NA2 Crystals

Disodium EDTA

0.20

Potassium Sorbate

0.10

Ultrez 20

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

0.30

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

1.00

Soldoc EB 29

Isopropyl Isostearate

5.00

Glyceryl Stearate AS SE

Glyceryl Stearate, Peg-100 Stearate

5.00

Silica, Dimethicone

2.00

Docoil DIPS

Diisopropyl sebacate

2.00

Docoil DIPA

Diisopropyl Adipate

2.00

Tocopheryl Acetate

0.40

Phenoxyethanol

0.35

Velvesil 125

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

3.00

Element-14 200

Dimethicone

3.00

Matmarine blue ingredient

on request

3.00

Actimoist BIO 1 advanced botanical ingredient

on request

2.00

Ebonitone marine ingredient

on request

2.00

Novemer EC-1 Polymer

Acrylates/Acrylamide Copolymer (and) Mineral Oil (and) Polysorbate 85

0.50

Fragrance (Parfum)

0.10

Sodium Hydroxide (20% in an aqueous solution)

Sodium Hydroxide

q.s.

TOTAL

10.00

100.00

Process: 1. In an adequate vessel, dissolve while mixing the Propanediol, Glycerin, Disodium EDTA and Potassium Sorbate in the water. 2. Add the Carbopol Ultrez Polymer while stirring. 3. Add the Potassium Cetyl Phosphate while stirring and heat the solution to between 70°C to 75°C.

CUTTING EDGE TECHNOLOGY

4. Mix and melt phase B ingredients at 70°C to 75°C. 5. Add phase B to phase A while stirring with a turbine mixer. 6. Add phase C while stirring.

7. Add phase D while stirring.

WITH SENSORY EXPERTISE WHICH WILL SET YOU APART

8. Add phase E while stirring. 9. Add phase F while stirring.

10. Add phase G to adjust the pH to between 6.0 and 6.5.

RELIABLE – CONSISTENT – SUSTAINABLE

products. The ingredient offers multifunctional, high-performance and sustainability benefits as it reduces sebum, maintains proper skin hydration over a long period and is of a 100% natural origin. The new in vivo results complete the efficacy profile of Matmarine biotech ingredient and reconfirm its capacity to harmonise skin’s complexion regardless of consumers’ ethnicity or gender, because enlarged pores, inflammation and blemishes are common concerns associated with all oily skin types. Ebonitone biotech ingredient and Matmarine biotech ingredient are available in South Africa – QUALITY DRIVEN from Savannah Fine Chemicals. •

Durban: +27 31 202 0794 Email: info@savannah.co.za

www.savannah.co.za Figure 3: Matmarine biotech ingredient significantly minimised the appearance of pores in African skin, compared to the placebo

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Savannah Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

[JRS Rettenmaier South Africa]

HARNESS THE POWER OF PLANT AND OCEANBASED INGREDIENTS Driven by global trends to replace synthetic raw materials in personal care products, the demand for sustainable, natural and biodegradable raw materials has seen steady growth. J. Rettenmaier & Sohne (JRS) creates sustainable, natural and biodegradable plant- and ocean-based ingredients for use as functional additives in personal care products.

RS offers natural rheology modifiers that can function as thickeners and stabilisers with a non-sticky feel. The Vivastar and Vivapur ranges can be used in opaque and clear formulations. Both consist of an instant powder product, ideal for use in waterless/ dry formulations. The Vitacel and Vivapur ranges offer an eco-friendly exfoliant and scrub alternative to synthetic microbeads. These natural exfoliants provide a perfect balance between aesthetics and functionality as they come in a range of different colours and particle sizes, offering various degrees of exfoliation. If you’re looking for alternatives to synthetic powders and fibres, JRS produces two varieties of effect powders. The Vitacel and Vivapur

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

ranges can be used as substitutes for PMMA, nylon, PE, boron nitride and silica powders and fibres to enhance the sensory experience of a product. The effect powders also improve spreadability whilst supporting wrinkle smoothing, mattifying and opacity claims.

Good for people and the planet All JRS’s products are produced from various raw material sources, including cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, fruit and the latest addition to its portfolio, alginates. All products are eco-friendly, skin-friendly, fast and easily biodegradable, made from renewable resources, vegan and non-GMO. Halal and Kosher as well as ECOCERT/COSMOS certificates are available on request.

[JRS Rettenmaier South Africa] Table 1: Butter scrub

Phase Product

INCI

Vitacel CS 300 Soft

Cellulose

30.0

Jojoba Oil

Simmondia Chinesis Seed Oil

Fragrance

Parfum

0.3

Tocopherol

0.2

Demineralised water

Aqua

Euxyl PE 9010

Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

24.0

44.5 1.0

Vitacel CS 300 Soft functions as a soft exfoliant in the butter scrub Table 2: Flawless pressed powder

Phase Product

INCI

Vivapur CS

Microcrystalline

Sensory 12

Cellulose

Vitacel CS 5

Avena Sativa (Oat) Bran

% 14.0 50.0

Oat DP Opal

Mica

30.0

Zetemol 2IS

Isostearyl Isostearate

5.0

Euxyl PE 9010

Phenoxyethanol (and)

1.0

Ethylhexylglycerin Vivapur CS Sensory 12 enhances the sensory benefits of the pressed powder while Vitacel CS 5 Oat offers natural colour

“The Vitacel and Vivapur ranges can be used as substitutes for PMMA, nylon, PE, boron nitride and silica powders and fibres” JRS Rettenmaier South Africa is a member of the family-owned J. Rettenmaier Group, which has more than 140 years of experience in the development, processing and optimisation of high-grade natural fibres. The group’s headquarters are located in Rosenberg, Germany with over 3 500 employees worldwide. With its expertise in sustainable, natural and biodegradable ingredients, the group is one of the largest producers of INCI: Cellulose and INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose products worldwide, with global regulatory, technical and service network support as well as local operational support. The group also has regional production and logistic centres based in Europe, the United States and Asia. For formulation guidelines, samples or additional information, please send an e-mail to info@rettenmaier.co.za. •

JRS Rettenmaier South Africa – rettenmaier.co.za/jrs-za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[ Vantage Specialty Chemicals]

Vantage offers a wide portfolio of natural oils

SECURING THE SUPPLY OF SUSTAINABLE JOJOBA-BASED BEAUTY INGREDIENTS Climate change imposes new stress on farmers and the industries that depend on them. Vantage Specialty Chemicals explores how integrated dual sourcing creates a supply chain that is climate-change-proof, and which protects manufacturers of cosmetics.

limate change poses not just one, but a whole slew of challenges to farmers and downstream industries. From damaging winds during a storm, to erosion and even landslides, major weather conditions have always been a concern for farms and now they are becoming aggressively more common. In spring 2018, unusually heavy rain caused massive flooding across the US Midwest, leaving some areas 10 feet deep in sand. In Nebraska alone, it is estimated that farmers lost $440 million worth of cattle. As a result of these floods, many farmers had to delay spring planting. Delays in crops aren’t just stressful for farmers – they could lead to significant supply

chain disruption for the food and personal care industry, the latter of which continues to rely more and more on naturally-derived ingredients. Beyond the catastrophic and headline-making weather disasters, farmers around the world are starting to notice that seasons aren’t what they used to be. Growing seasons are starting earlier and temperatures are getting higher in already warm climates. While a longer growing season could theoretically have some advantages, it also presents more obstacles in the short term, such as an increase in pest population. Early spring onset can also cause crops to grow before the soil holds enough water and nutrients, or it can ruin fruit crops that bud early and then later experience spring frost. Plus, warmer winters can affect other farming practices like grain storage.

An industry at risk More erratic and changing seasons pose an inevitable challenge for the cosmetic industry, which has embarked on a transformative journey toward using more natural ingredients. As the industry shifts to raw materials increasingly derived from natural feedstock, it also becomes more and more exposed to the risk that climate change represents to crops and harvests. Many oils, emollients, emulsifiers and botanical extracts are now partially or entirely derived from natural resources. Vegetable oils have benefited from the natural craze over the past few years and have become increasingly popular to formulators and consumers. These botanicallyderived ingredients resonate well with beauty and food enthusiasts concerned about their wellness and living a healthy lifestyle. Contrary to synthetic ingredients, the availability of vegetable oils is directly connected to weather conditions and so is the quality of the harvest. Purchasing

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

[ Vantage Specialty Chemicals] Table 1: Conditioning Oil Bar

Phase Ingredient

INCI

Lipobutter Refined Shea

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)

24.00

Lipocol SC Pastilles

Cetearyl Alcohol

35.30

Lipo GMS-450 Veg

Glyceryl Stearate (Vegetable based)

2.00

Liponate CCC MB

Coco-Caprylate/ Caprate

3.00

Lipovol C-76

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

15.00

Liponate Jojoba 20

Jojoba Esters

9.00

Jojoba Wax Flaxes

Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil

5.00

Varisoft BT 85 Pellets Behentrimonium Chloride

5.00

Vitamin E Acetate

Tocopheryl Acetate

0.30

Kopcerin CG

Ethylhexylglycerin (and) Caprylyl Glycol

0.60

Fragrance

Fragrance FAV-219833

0.80

This bar conditioner developed with natural ingredients contains a unique complex on vegetable oils, jojoba esters and butters for smooth, hydrated and healthy-looking hair

departments have faced their fair share of challenges in the past years because of this. In 2013 for instance, a poor rainy season led to an 80% drop in the Spanish olive production, sending the entire supply chain for olive and its derivatives like olive oil, into a whirlwind. More recently in 2020, the US apricot output was estimated to be down by 30% compared to previous years, due to a combination of poor weather conditions and limited available workforce. This drastic decrease in production created very tight conditions for apricot kernel oil for personal care formulations. To make up for the limited supply from the United States, oil suppliers and cosmetics manufacturers had to quickly approve alternative sources from the Eastern hemisphere, creating an unwelcomed burden on quality and formulation departments. “Vegetable oils represent a unique challenge for procurement departments. These oils typically have a short shelf life. There is also often an intricate interdependency or competition with the food industry, which can add a layer of complexity when harvest conditions are poor and supply tight. Purchasers need to be in constant contact with farmers and processing facilities to keep up with this fast-evolving market,” says

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // FORMULATION DESIGN

[ Vantage Specialty Chemicals] Brenda Lopez Salas, strategic sourcing manager for Vantage Personal Care. The consequences of climate change are still not fully understood and are not likely to impact all continents in the same way at the same time. But as the beauty and personal care industry shows no sign of slowing down in its transition to natural ingredients, it becomes increasingly challenging for purchasers to secure their procurement routes.

Secure supply chain toolkit Putting in place the right processes can help alleviate the risks associated with sourcing natural ingredients, but they all come with a high degree of added complexity: • Full vision over ingredient traceability – in an ideal world, purchasers would like to know the full picture of how the raw materials they purchase are sourced, starting from the farm or country of harvest. Combining this mapping with meteorologic alerts can help purchasers anticipate potential shortage risks based on climatic conditions. This approach can however become cumbersome and still requires the approval of alternative sources. • Dual sourcing – creating backup strategies can also mitigate climate-related shortages. This requires several suppliers to exist for a raw material and they must be located in different regions worldwide to reduce the chances of a meteorological event impacting all alternative suppliers at once. While this option often proves to be efficient, it generates more complexity and creates the need for upfront quality approval of all suppliers.

Jojoba cultivation The question of supply safety for natural oils is something Vantage comes across on a regular basis. When the company decided to become the leading supplier of jojoba oil in 2012, concerns about jojoba oil scarcity and potential shortages were very much alive in the minds of its customers’ procurement departments. Jojoba grows in very specific conditions and requires a subtle balance of dry and hot weather and reasonably mild winters to avoid the devastating effect of frost on the seeds. This is key to ensure the seeds reach their maximum potential in oil concentration. Seeds

FORMULATION DESIGN // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

are collected once a year, so any erratic weather can wreak havoc into the harvest season and on the final oil output. In order to protect companies from annual shortages, Vantage has invested in jojoba farms both in the Northern hemisphere in Arizona where jojoba is native, and in the Southern hemisphere, in Argentina, where the Monte Desert provides similar weather conditions to the North American Sonoran Desert. Jojoba seeds are collected at both sites and oil can be extracted nearby. This geo-diversification in both hemispheres drastically reduces any risk that, in the event of a bad harvest, manufacturers around the globe would be left with no available jojoba oil. Furthermore, by directly operating its farms, Vantage keeps full traceability of the oil, from ‘farms to formulations’. This integrated supply chain model, from cultivation to oil refining, allows the company to strategically manage its safety stocks of both seeds and oils, further eliminating any risk of shortage. This integration also gives it total control over the quality of its product, assuring that no matter the origin of the product, each batch is delivered within the same specification, year after year. “Operating two farms on two continents has really allowed us to come through for our customers in moments where they needed reliability and consistency to support their global growth. Jojoba oil has become increasingly popular over the past few years, and we take pride in our ability to keep delivering a consistently high-quality product, no matter what unexpected surprises Mother Nature throws at us,” says Amber Schwartz, jojoba operations director for Vantage. As climate change creates more uncertainty over seasonal patterns, with potential dramatic impact over crop harvests around the globe, Vantage is committed to supporting cosmetics manufacturers with the most reliable level of services. By adapting and investing in this geodiversification model for jojoba, it provides customers the security of dual sourcing, along with the simplicity of dealing with a unique supplier, and one oil quality-standard. This leads to complete peace-of-mind, from ‘farms to formulations’. •

Vantage South Africa – kim.maccallum@

2020/21 P&C Review and Symrise

P&C Review and Symrise are unveiling a re-energised New Product Competition that is relevant to all players in the South African cosmetics industry. The 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition will now be judged according to the following market segments: • Mass/Masstige • Prestige • Privé Label The entries scoring the highest in each of the three segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.

Who is eligible to enter: • Local and international personal care, hair care, skin care, beauty and cosmetics brands, whose products are available in South Africa. • Brand owners, private label or house brands, manufacturers, retailers or distributors who have launched new products between 1 January 2019 and May 2021.

review Pharmaceutical & & Cosmetic

All entries will receive confidential reports with extensive feedback from our panel of expert judges, who collectively hold over 100 years’ experience in their respective fields. Each product/range entered into the 2020/21 New Product Competition will be judged on the following criteria: • Formulation design • Regulatory compliance • Packaging • Marketing incorporating social media and digital campaigns.

Entries are now open and will close on 1 June 2021. For more information or to enter, contact Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review on 071 359 4519 or send an email to Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za. www.pharmacos.co.za

www.carst.co.za

www.gattefosse.com

Providing functional excipients and technical support

Oral

Topical

Rectal/Vaginal

Formulation Design | 01 | 2021

Articles inside

Securing the supply of sustainable jojoba-based beauty ingredients

Harness the power of plant and ocean-based ingredients

Truly inclusive beauty ingredients for diverse formulations

Give textured hair a boost with natural repair ingredients

One-stop shopping at its best

The rise of vegan beauty products

Bring life to your formulations with baobab oil

Leading through excellence and innovation in the supply chain

CireBase LB55 – the perfect balance between performance and sustainability

Your reliable supplier for drug development

Promising excellence, delivering the exceptional

FORMULATION 101: Navigating the basics

The skin dryness inhibitory mechanism of GO-VC, an amphiphilic ascorbic-acid derivative

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