SKIN CARE
Combat ashy skin with moisturising essentials Dry skin irritancy is a universal struggle. Nearly every person will experience it at some point in life. Exogenous factors like the weather can have an effect, but luckily there are defenses that can be used to protect against dry skin as well as proactively counteract it. Jacques Strydom, technical manager at AECI Specialty Chemicals, discusses dry skin in various skin types and how to address it with essential moisturising actives.
W
INTER WITH ITS cold temperatures,
A SOLUTION TO IMPROVE DRY SKIN
EXPLORING HYALURONIC ACID
low humidity and chilling winds is
Besides the itchiness and irritancy caused by
Arguably one of the most important moisturising
normally the worst time of year for
dry skin, it also makes the skin appear older. Dry
actives is hyaluronic acid (HA). HA occurs naturally
skin moisture. These environmental factors are
skin does not necessarily cause cracks, but it
in all vertebrate tissues and throughout the body
rather effective at stripping the skin of its natural
does enhance the appearance thereof.
in various connective tissues, synovial joint fluids
The solution? Moisturisation, of course.
and in varying amounts in the skin. It is in the
would protect the skin from transepidermal water
Luckily, moisturisation is a well-studied field of
skin that the body holds the primary reservoir
loss (TEWL). Over and above the direct effects
skin care and one that we know to be absolutely
of HA – up to 50% of the total. Because of its
of the weather, when it is cold, we tend to take
vital to modern skin health. Today, there are many
unique rheological, viscoelastic and hygroscopic
warmer (and longer) showers or baths, once again
options to promote moisturisation, including
properties, HA plays a pivotal role in protecting,
stripping the skin’s lipid barrier with soap.
ingredient classes like emollients that form
stabilising and reinforcing skin at the cellular level.
lipid barrier, which under normal circumstances
Apart from a beautiful appearance, higher
an artificial barrier to prevent moisture loss,
HA, along with collagen, elastin and essential
levels of melanin protect skin during sun
humectants that draw moisture to the skin and
lipids, form the primary elements of the human
exposure. While there are many benefits to having
which hydrate the stratum corneum, as well as
skin matrix. Native HA is naturally produced by
a more melanated skin type, there are also certain
actives that penetrate deeper into the skin to
skin cells mainly in varying concentrations of low
drawbacks. Differences in melanin levels in turn
restore and protect important mechanisms that
molecular weight polymers (15kDa), all the way
relate to differences in sun-related skin changes,
keep skin supple and hydrated.
through to high molecular weight polymers (up
affecting the stratum corneum’s water content
to 2 000kDa). The size of the polymer dictates its
and its ability to retain moisture. Dry skin is also a
biological role in the skin and its primary benefit.
bit more noticeable on certain skin tones, due to the direct contrast with the lighter appearance of dry and flaky skin cells.
When using HA in skin care, scientists prefer to work with sodium hyaluronate (or NaHA), which is the synthesised salt counterpart of HA. It has similar benefits to HA and is
7
more stable in its form and less likely
SIGNS OF DRY SKIN:
1. roughness 2. reduced firmness 3. cracking 4. flaking 5. scaling 6. reduced elasticity 7. ashy skin/white lines.
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QUARTER 3 2021 // P&C AFRICA
to oxidise. Sodium hyaluronate also has a smaller molecular size, so it can penetrate deeper into the skin, where it can attract and hold moisture, swell and therefore assist in making skin look plumper. This mechanism of action results in a youngerlooking skin with less visible wrinkles.
