Think silicones, think clean and safe beauty for all

There is growing consumer interest in clean beauty, and hair care is finally catching up to the trend. According to Grant Industries, silicones are ideal clean beauty ingredients. Along with their safety, enhanced performance of active ingredients, compatibility with other materials including naturals, and their unmatched sensory acceptance, silicones are extremely valuable and desired for cosmetic formulations.

In the hair care category, shampoo bars and other waterless products are growing in popularity because they reduce the use of plastic packaging and are lighter to ship, reducing their environmental impact. Progress is also being made to reduce sulphates, synthetic fragrances and other non-essential ingredients in hair care product formulations. Besides the basic cosmetic products, silicones are used extensively in OTC, baby care, medical applications and products for sensitive skin due to their non-irritating characteristics. Silicones are also not animal-derived and therefore approved by vegans as cruelty-free materials. They are not related to palm and RSPO issues and are certified as GMO-free. The types of silicones used in cosmetic products are supported by scientific research and are considered extremely safe for consumer use. Silicones are effective, inert and versatile ingredients that benefit skin and hair in numerous ways.

CLEAN HAIR CARE

In line with the clean hair care trend, Grant Industries – represented by IMCD throughout Southern Africa – has launched two new, nextgeneration Gransense elastomers, which allow formulators to design clean and sustainable hair

Table 1: Coconut co-wash 2-in-1 solid shampoo Phase Ingredient INCI

A AminoSensyl HC Brassica Alcohol (and) Brassicyl Valinate Esylate Shea Butter Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) butter GransenseTC 21X/C Triheptanoin & Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Polyurethane-100

100.00%

Vegarol 1618 Cetearyl Alcohol Virgin Coconut Oil Cocos nucifera (Coconut) Seed Oil B Citric Acid Citric Acid ProCondition 22 Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine Elfan AT84 Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Amisoft LS-11(F) Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate

This minimalistic yet luxurious 2-in-1 solid shampoo gently cleanses and conditions the hair in one step with a non-stripping creamy foam. GransenseTC 21X/C leaves the hair silky

% w/w

4.00% 3.30% 3.50%

30.00% 5.00% 0.20% 2.00% 32.00% 20.00% and soft while improving the creaminess of the foam

care products. These elastomers support a wide range of free-from demands when it comes to formulation design, including water-free, quat-free, paraben-free, mineral oil-free, sulphate-free, GMO-free, petrolatum-free, PEG-free, TEA-free, phthalate-free, gluten-free, and fragrance-free. They are also 100% naturally-derived, 100% biobased and 100% bio-degradable ingredients.

The Gransense elastomers – GransenseTC 18X/C (INCI: Coco Caprylate/Caprate (and) Triehptanoin (and) C9-C12 Alkane (and) Polyurethane-100), and GransenseTC 21X/C (INCI: Triheptanoin (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Polyurethane-100) – are low-polar translucent gels, vegetable alkane and ester fluids available in medium to non-volatile options.

Ecocert-COSMOS-approved, these clean, sustainable, transparent, versatile and formulatorfriendly elastomers are compatible with many hair care ingredients, such as natural oils; waxes; fatty alcohols; quats; anionic, cationic and non-ionic surfactants; and commonly used preservatives. They are also heat stable and can be used in hot or cold processes and in different cosmetic formats,

Table 2: Love my curves hair perfector leave-on cream Phase Ingredient INCI

A Water Water (Aqua) ProCondition 22 Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine Glycerin USP Glycerin B Shea Butter Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) butter GransenseTC 21X/C Triheptanoin & Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Polyurethane-100 Vegarol 1618 Cetearyl Alcohol Citric Acid USP Citric Acid Solagum Tara Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum Argan Oil Argan Oil Virgin Eutanol G Octyldodecanol Vegelight1214 LC Coconut Alkanes/Coco-Caprylate Caprate Lexgard Natural Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Glyceryl

% w/w

64.40% 2.00% 1.00% 1.00% 5.00%

5.00% 0.30% 0.30% 2.00% 2.00% 6.00% 1.00%

100.00%

Did you know?

The organic portion of Gransense elastomers may migrate to the surface of plastic packaging, behaving as a plasticiser altering the shape of the packaging as well asfinishedproductperformance.Toavoid this phenomenon, it is recommended to use glass packaging or co-extruded thick wall polyester, polyethylene terephthalate or phenolic-type plastics where applicable.

including liquids, emulsions, anhydrous, solids and dispersions.

Multiple effects are possible with the Gransense elastomers, such as moisturising and repairing sensations, a soft and smooth afterfeel, and matte or shine effects.

They also meet the increasing demand for natural formulations. See Tables 1 and 2 for inspiring formulation examples of both a solid and cream format, which incorporate the Gransense elastomers.

CLEAN SKIN CARE

Imagine there is an inert, non-reactive ingredient to aid in the aesthetics of formulas by providing incredible sensorial aspects without irritating the skin. This ingredient is also safe and complies with clean beauty standards – of course, we’re talking about silicones.

In skin care formulations, silicones offer a variety of benefits. As the name suggests, a texturiser can improve the texture of a formulation by reducing the stickiness or tackiness of formulas with high oil loading, particularly relevant with SPF formulas. It can also reduce tack from carbomer gels; improve matte and soft focus/blur effects; impart a soft, velvety afterfeel; reduce drag or improve slip, and reduce drying time.

Silicones are

effective, inert and versatile

ingredients that benefit skin and hair in numerous ways

Granpowder BBP-700 (INCI: Saccharomyces Ferment (and) Lauroyl Lysine), is a 100% naturallyderived, bio-based powder consisting of a fused fermentation and amino acid derivative composite. It is GMO-free, COSMOS-approved, ECHAcompliant and has proven biodegradability via ISO standards. When tested on textured hair tresses, the hair perfector leave-on cream leaves the hair silky and soft. The control is pictured on the left and the TC21X/leave-on on the right

The yeast (Saccharomyces) has been around since ancient times and is used in winemaking, baking, brewing and as a nutritional supplement. Grant Industries also uses this yeast in a bioreactor production facility for the fermentation of Granpowder BBP-700, using sugars (i.e. glucose), which clearly fits the sustainable supply chain model demanded by customers. The yeast creates Polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) as an energy source, providing many of the benefits of Granpowder BBP700 along with its natural credentials.

The Lauroyl Lysine (amino acid derivative), which is produced from feedstock using a biobased process, is well-known to give excellent sensory properties. It can also improve the water resistance/long wear properties of formulations, and it has a flat, crystalline structure and limited soft focus effects. Its spherical shape gives great soft focus effects while it is classified outside of the ECHA microplastic definition, and is bio-based and bio-degradable.

Granpowder BBP-700 provides sensory improvement to skin and body care products, colour cosmetics and sun care formulations with a costeffective low-use level between 1% and 5%. It has particle size average of 2um to 10um.

In sun care applications, Granpowder BBP-700 can remove the greasy feel from organic UV filters, and in anti-ageing products it offers soft focus properties. The powder complements naturallyderived Gransense elastomer technologies and it is suggested the two be used together in formulations for optimal performance. •

IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com Grant Industries – www.grantinc.com