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Quarter 1 2019 | Volume 4 | Number 1
PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
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Impressive technologies for natural hair care
Tablet coating problems and their solutions
INGREDIENTS that strike a balance between sustainability and innovation
H&R Africa
For Africa, by Africa!
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To learn more please visit www.grantinc.com/cleanbeauty
Quarter 1 2019 | Volume 4 | Number 1
AFRICA
www.pharmacos.co.za PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
CONTENTS 6 NEWS
Bayer intensifies its fight against malaria
Iberchem expands its presence in Africa
CJP and Seppic celebrate their synergies
12 INGREDIENTS
Tips to innovate for Millennial consumers
A fresh perspective on antiperspirant actives
16 HAIR CARE
How to strengthen hair with protein ingredients
Formulations to enhance natural, textured hair
Fight the flakes with Ichtyol from Savannah
Go natural with vegan alternatives
10
Trusted, reliable and sustainable for Africa and the Middle East
24 PHARMA FOCUS: OSD FORMS
Glatt helps solve challenges in tablet coating
26 INDUSTRY TALK
Africa’s poorest nations succeed in fighting disease
28 COLOUR COSMETICS
Functional fillers to boost makeup formulations
30 PACKAGING
Sidel installs complete end of line solution at Unilever Dubai
How to formulate for Afrilennials
12
African health-tech startup labelled ‘innovative’
Proteins – hero ingredients to replenish hair
8
16
P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |
3
PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
FROM THE EDITOR
THE TEAM
Are your solutions real problem solvers?
W
e’re all working hard to fulfil
New developments in hair care – one of
a need through our own
the biggest categories driving the inclusivity
businesses. In the cosmetics
movement – are showcased on page
industry there’s been a surge
16. Croda reveals the results of extensive
EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Naresh Budraj ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za
in the demand for artisanal, sustainable,
protein analysis on relaxed African hair to
locally made, natural products in all
determine the efficacy of protein based
Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za
consumer categories as well as the need to
products in replenishing damaged hair;
INTERNATIONAL SALES
be Instagrammable at all times.
Lubrizol ramps up its presence in the African
Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de
Pharmaceuticals, on the other hand,
market to capitalise on the natural hair care
are fundamental in the global control and
movement, and Savannah Fine Chemicals
elimination of disease.
introduces a pharma grade ingredient
While the end user’s needs associated with these two industries are poles apart, their workings are highly alike. There are no
proven to treat dandruff and the associated symptoms. In our pharma focus on page 24,
false promises; the products have to work.
European systems and solutions provider,
Pharma and cosmetics products are backed
Glatt helps manufacturers solve their
by authenticity with accessibility being a key
tablet coating problems. Whether its
driver in both industries.
twinning, capping, colour variation
Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION
challenges or friability, solutions to these
Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za
medicine are a global problem. These
issues are tabulated for ease of reference
PUBLISHING TEAM
include insufficient infrastructure, a lack
for our readers.
General Manager: Dev Naidoo
Challenges hindering access to
of skills and poorer economies in many
We also look at which African countries
Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmedia.co.za
African countries, not to mention the
are winning the war against neglected
legalities surrounding arduous patent
tropical diseases (NTDs). New data from
agreements. In the cosmetics industry,
Uniting to Combat NTDs – a collective of
access to beauty and personal care
invested, interested and dedicated partners
products is thriving due to the inclusivity
– reveals how affluent African countries like
JOHANNESBURG OFFICE
movement. Brands are letting consumers
South Africa and Equatorial Guinea are far
define what beauty looks like and are
behind lower income bracket countries such
creating invested audiences by producing
as Malawi and Togo, which both reached 75
products that solve real problems.
percent of the average
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The concept of solving these problems
target. Turn to page
forms the basis of this edition of P C Africa.
26 now for this
In our ingredients feature we look at how
interesting read.
sustainability has become a key driver of
Production Controller: Pam Moodley Art Director: David Kyslinger
Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd. MANAGEMENT TEAM MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb
raw materials and cosmetics technologies,
I hope you enjoy
with more and more brands wanting to
this edition!
COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis
deliver on their promise by putting proven
BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley
effective, clean label and safe products
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone
on the market. Turn to page 12 now to read
HEAD OF HR: Camillah West
about Ashland’s sustainable ingredients and ChemSystems’ safe and effective antiperspirant actives.
ADVERTISERS’ INDEX 06 Agencies SA.................................................17........................www.o6southafrica.com Botanichem......................................................22.......................www.botanichem.co.za Brenntag............................................................IBC......................www.brenntag.com ChemSystems ..................................................14........................www.chemsystems.co.za Crest Chemicals ..............................................18........................www.crestchem.co.za Croda SA...........................................................15........................www.crodapersonalcare.com Dr. Lohmann Gmbh.........................................7..........................www.lohmann-chemikalien.de Glatt GmbH.......................................................25.......................www.glatt.com H&R Africa.........................................................OFC....................www.hur.com IMCD SA ............................................................IFC......................www.imcdsa.co.za Orkila.................................................................OBC....................www.orkila.com Savannah Fine Chemicals..............................21........................www.savannah.co.za Sensient Technologies South Africa...............23.......................www.sensient.com
CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 www.newmedia.co.za
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical
Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Tandym.
Copyright: all rights reserved.
4
| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa
Launched a new product in 2018/19
Make a
Statement about it
2019
New Product Competition ENTRIES NOW OPEN C o n t a c t N a t a l i e D a S i l v a : N a t a l i e . D a S i l v a @ n e w m e d i a . c o . z a | +2 7 ( 0 )11 87 7 6 2 81
NEWS
BASF advances market specific solutions for Nigeria IN FEBRUARY, BASF’S Care Creations officially
we can provide onsite technical expertise
opened its new application technology
and market insights. We can also support
laboratory for personal care in Lagos, Nigeria.
the development of tailor-made products for
With the establishment of on the ground
the specific needs of African hair and skin,’
competence in application and formulation
says Dirk Mampe, VP business management,
technology, BASF commissioned its technical
personal care solutions Europe.
service for African hair and skin care applications throughout sub-Saharan Africa.
Dr Jacqueline Appelgate
Hair, skin and consumers’ personal care regimens vary widely across regions,
network of expertise in the region, in marketing
of the art application lab in Nigeria is designed
and sales.
to offer formulation support. Based on BASF’s
NEW ANTI-MALARIA TOOL FROM BAYER
The company has also strengthened its
‘Customised solutions meeting the specific
necessitating tailored products. The new state
deep global expertise in hair and skin care
WITH NEARLY HALF of the world’s population at risk of contracting
requirements of consumers in different
performance testing, the company will also
malaria, primarily in sub Saharan Africa, stepping up the fight against
markets are key for business growth. With our
expand and develop consumer and market
the disease is a pressing challenge. Rising to the challenge, Bayer has
broadened presence and the investment in
relevant claim support. The laboratory is part
launched a new indoor residual spray (IRS), Fludora Fusion, set to make
a new application lab in sub-Saharan Africa,
of BASF’s new regional headquarter for West
great strides in the fight against malaria.
Africa, which was commissioned
malaria were reported in 2017, up from 217 million in 2016. In southern
As one of the fastest-growing
Africa alone, during 2018, more than 16 000 cases resulting in 110
beauty markets in sub-Saharan
deaths were reported by the end of October. This is more than the
Africa, Nigeria is well-suited as a
average number of cases over the 10 year period between 2007 and
regional hub for BASF’s personal
2016, which was estimated at 7 600 cases per year.
care business. ‘The expansion of BASF’s
‘Insecticide resistance remains one of the biggest threats to eradicating malaria largely because of our reliance on a limited number
operations in West Africa,
of effective insecticides in vector control interventions against malaria
including the opening of the
carrying mosquitos. In the context of this urgent need for new modes of
personal care application lab,
action in malaria vector control, Fludora Fusion represents a major step
clearly demonstrates BASF’s
in eradicating malaria,’ says Dr Jacqueline Appelgate, head of global
commitment to Nigeria and
vegetable seeds & environmental science at Bayer.
the confidence we have in the
The new laboratory in Nigeria forms part of BASF’s global application technology network in 21 countries
According to the World Health Organization, 219 million cases of
in Lagos, in October 2018.
It is also of great concern that malaria prevalence has expanded
region,’ adds Jean Marc Ricca,
with low or very low malaria transmission appearing in some areas
MD for BASF West Africa. •
previously regarded as malaria-free, particularly in South Africa. Bayer’s field trials, in an unprecedented 16 African countries, has proven Fludora Fusion is effective against more than a dozen
NALLIAN LAUNCHES
GLOBAL PHARMA TRACKER AT THE IATA World Cargo
prevent costly temperature
Symposium in Singapore, data
excursions, which are causing vast
sharing specialist Nallian launched
product losses on an annual basis.
the Global Pharma Tracker. This
The global pharma air cargo
is said to be is the world’s first
supply chain involves many
data sharing platform for end to
partners: shippers, carriers, ground
end tracking and monitoring of
handlers, forwarders, cold chain
temperature controlled
service providers and airport
pharma shipments.
authorities. In this fragmented
Providing unparalleled levels
supply chain, detecting excursions
resistant strains of mosquitos. The results also show it remains effective for up to 12 months after application. ‘We know that investing in the development of malaria fighting tools will only be successful if accessible to those in need. This is why Bayer is committed to providing public health programmes with Fludora Fusion. This will make a healthier, better life more accessible to everyone,’ explains Dr Appelgate. Bayer has been a mainstay in global malaria prevention strategy for over 60 years through continued investments in effective vector control solutions. Dr Appelgate concludes: ‘We’re excited by the potential of Fludora Fusion to help prevent new malaria infections. It is a major milestone in our pursuit of a malaria-free future.’ •
of transparency and visibility, it
and defining why and where they
empowers the user to efficiently
happened is a complex, time
single, real-time view. This gives all stakeholders access to
detect, act upon and ultimately
consuming and manual process.
an enhanced data stream, providing valuable insights into
The Global Pharma
It empowers users to answer questions efficiently and
integrates logistics,
unequivocally, such as ‘where did the excursion happen’
temperature and
and ‘what caused it’.
quality data from
6
| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa
their cargo flows and end to end visibility across the network.
Tracker Platform
Ultimately, historical performance analysis will allow users
this fragmented
to adopt a pro-active approach to preventing excursions
supply chain into a
from occurring in future. •
NEWS
Iberchem develops its presence in Africa
GERRESHEIMER OFFERS IRRADIATION OF DROPPER BOTTLES
IN LINE WITH its 2020 expansion
IN FEBRUARY, AT Pharmapack, in Paris, France, Gerresheimer
plan, fragrance manufacturer
unveiled new packaging services for ophthalmology and
Iberchem is expanding its footprint
rhinology products. The company has teamed up with select
in emerging markets, including
certified partners to add surface finishing of plastic dropper
Africa. Its new commercial office
Iberchem’s commercial team in South Africa: Beverley Gardner, Margaret Reynolds (back) and Mishkah Moyce
in South Africa is set to boost the company’s already strong presence in the country while catapulting its expansion in east and west Africa. Iberchem now counts on
Before joining Iberchem, Gardner was
bottles to its irradiation services. ‘We want to make life easier for our customers when it comes to procuring their dropper bottles, by treating our products with gamma radiation using select recognised and certified partners,’ says Niels Düring, global executive VP of plastic packaging. The chosen partner companies all have ISO 11137, 11737
20 facilities, including eight production
employed at Symrise South Africa where she
and 13004 certifications. Gerresheimer will be responsible
plants, strategically located across the
worked in various roles such as managing
for handling this process from start to finish. The inspection
world, as well as a commercial presence
sales for sub-Saharan Africa for the
process will also see Gerresheimer physically and chemically
in over 120 countries. Understanding the
cosmetics, fragrance and aroma-molecules
testing product characteristics after irradiation. Ultimately, it will
added advantage and flexibility of having
divisions. Her zealous curiosity of people and
a dedicated team for sub-Saharan Africa,
regulate the validation and revalidation of the entire process,
places has enabled Gardner to forge unique
in November 2018, Iberchem appointed
connections throughout Africa. This, coupled
helping reduce costs for its customers.
Beverley Gardner as head of sales for its
with Iberchem’s well established success of
new office in South Africa. Supported by
sales in emerging markets, will enhance the
the marketing, technical and scientific
multinational’s footprint in Africa.
resources and capabilities of the company, Gardner will establish Iberchem’s sub-
In 2017, Iberchem opened a new office in Ghana and acquired the South African
The company’s range of packaging for ophthalmology and rhinology products includes bottles and dropper inserts made from low density polyethylene (LDPE), with pump systems to match. Irradiation also ensures the products are germ free. As a specialist in plastic packaging for the pharma industry,
Saharan operations with Margaret Reynolds
company, Versachem. The acquisition is an
the company offers a wide range of solutions for solid, liquid and
and Mishkah Moyce, who both have
exciting venture that now allows Iberchem
ophthalmological products. All of Gerresheimer’s primary pharma
extensive experience in the personal care
access to key customers and brands across
packaging is produced in ISO class 7 and class 8 cleanrooms at
and fragrances industries.
the continent. •
its plants in Vaerloese, Denmark and Bolesławiec, Poland.•
Zinc for Health and Wellness Stay healthy and well with Zinc ◆ Improves structure of hair, skin and nails ◆ Strengthens immune system ◆ Supports optimal growth of children ◆ Anti-bacterial
P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |
7
NEWS
CJP AND SEPPIC CELEBRATE THEIR SYNERGIES THE PERSONAL CARE industry is changing.
which bring performance and
It’s becoming increasingly complex and
technical sophistication to
requires suppliers to be more agile than
formulations while limiting their
ever before to meet brand owners and
environmental impact. Cosmetics
manufacturers shifting needs.
ingredients are the biggest
CJP Chemicals (CJP) is investing in its
contributor to Seppic’s revenue.
capabilities in line with the requirements of
As a result, the company has
the market. The company is also solidifying
made substantial investments in its
relationships with its principals, including
associated capabilities with new
Seppic. Prized for its proximity and reliability,
factories, facility expansions and key
Seppic designs and markets a wide range
acquisitions, including Serdex and
of speciality ingredients for health and
Biotech Marine.’
beauty. The French company is present in
Vijay Bahadur, Seppic’s beauty
100 countries through its subsidiaries and
care business unit zone manager
network of distributors, including CJP.
for the MEA region, adds: ‘Seppic
CJP has represented Seppic throughout
offers a wide range of innovation
Vijay Bahadur, Janine Fitzpatrick; product manager at CJP Chemicals, and Ashok Bhatt
southern Africa for a number of years,
and effective active ingredients
making its innovative ingredients and
and technologies for the African
formulation technologies available to
market, to address, for example,
activity of the active ingredient has been
manufacturers throughout the region. The
pigmentation or even tone skin care needs
tested on Ethnic skins.’
company’s newly established speciality
and Ethnic hair care needs. Sepiwhite
ingredients division will bring a renewed
MSH is a super effective molecule for skin
Xylishine, a natural hair moisturiser that
focus and stronger presence in the market
brightening and even tone applications.
enhances shine and curl definition, as well
for its principals, including Seppic.
Through a novel and demonstrated mode
as EmoSmart V21, an environmentally friendly
of action, the active ingredient lights up
emollient, which is proven to be as good as
the AMEI region, says: ‘Seppic creates
the complexion while limiting pigmentation
Dimethicone in improving the manageability
inspirational ingredients for cosmetics
related concerns. The effective lightening
and appearance of textured or curly hair. •
Ashok Bhatt, Seppic’s director for
For Ethnic hair care, Seppic offers
African health-tech startup labelled ‘innovative’ TALAMUS HEALTH, AN africa focused
can be scaled to deliver across industry
health-tech business, has been included on
segments and in multiple geographies are
fast company’s prestigious annual list of the
vital to getting ahead of the challenge.
world’s most innovative companies (mic) for
Already in Nigeria, Ghana and South Africa,
2019. The list honours businesses making a
we expect to launch in zimbabwe and
profound impact on industry and society,
Mozambique in 2019.’
showcasing a variety of ways to thrive in
services and their integration in financial
on this year’s mic 50 list appear on it for the
systems in Africa have created an
first time; the full mic list is available online at
opportunity to deliver healthcare services in
www.Fastcompany.Com/mic.
new ways, which Talamus is leveraging. The
Founder of Talamus Health, Dr Muri
8
| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa
The rapid growth of telecommunications
today’s volatile world. Half of the companies
Talamus Mobile Platform and marketplace
Raifu: ‘being recognised by Fast Company
provides integration options for pharmacies,
is a great endorsement of our innovative
laboratories, doctors, clinics, insurance
approach to solving healthcare challenges
companies and government agencies,
on the continent. This follows recognition
while offering patients more control over the
received from the UN ITU as the “most
movement and privacy of their health data.
scalable solution” in the SMA category, in
Talamus’ network covers over 100 clinics
its 2018 global awards. A combination of
and hospitals, 710 pharmacy outlets and 400
innovation and scalability is at the heart
laboratory outlets, as well as connections to
of our value proposition. Although Africa’s
insurance companies. Each connection is
population is the fastest growing in the world,
integrated with or use the Talamus mobile
its healthcare infrastructure is amongst the
application, enabling comprehensive real-
weakest. Innovative technical solutions that
time access to records and notes. •
DIARY
WHAT'S ON IN April
2019
in-cosmetics Global 2 to 4 April Porte de Versailles, Paris, France www.in-cosmetics.com/global
Pharmintech Exhibition 2019 10 to 12 April Bologna, Italy
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COMPANY FOCUS
Trusted, reliable and sustainable for Africa and the Middle East
H&R Africa prides itself on being a specialist manufacturer and marketer of application-based mineral oils, various waxes and petroleum jellies. Having successfully worked with various global organisations, major regional businesses and owner-operated companies, H&R has been active in shaping the future direction of various industries aligned with its stakeholders’ business and environmental sustainability pursuits.
A
lthough business and
which are pre-requisites for pharmaceutical
environmental sustainability
products and add value to personal care,
arguments continue, H&R
cosmetics and other associated industries.
Africa has developed some
H&R Africa views technology
exciting solutions by availing high-
and innovation as a driving force
need for a suitable
performance, renewable bio-based
of the sustainability of its business.
quality standard,
raw materials for various industries. This
The company constantly upgrades
relevant price point and
is to ensure the company continues its
its manufacturing technologies
to overcome supply
work with stakeholders on business and
and innovation processes, which
chain challenges.
environmental sustainability pursuits.
recently resulted in the development
This range is perfectly
of the Tudamelt M range variety of
suited for personal care,
specialty microwaxes.
candle and packaging
As a proud African business, H&R Africa is excited to be a Black Economic Empowerment compliant organisation
The Tudamelt M range was
in South Africa. The company views this
developed in response to Africa’s
programme as necessary in redressing the previously oppressive South African economic landscape. Previously known as H&R South Africa Sales, the company has rebranded to H&R Africa to set a clear identity and focus on growing its business activities in Africa, as well as the Middle East. The H&R Africa brand, represents, in part, a business model centred on market-specific, application-based manufacturing and
H&R VIEWS TECHNOLOGY AND INNOVATION AS A DRIVING FORCE OF THE SUSTAINABILITY OF ITS BUSINESS
H&R Africa to consistently fulfil customers’ expectations and become a value-adding, reliable supplier to stakeholders.
TECHNOVATIVE BRANDS H&R Africa’s registered brand names represent more than just the applicationbased products, they also represent the company’s technical astuteness, optimised supply chain and world-class customer service. These three pillars enable customers to attain valuable competitive advantages in their respective industries. The company’s branded mineral oils, various waxes and petroleum jellies conform to the European, British and American Pharmacopoeias standards, The Pionier range of petroleum jellies
| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa
functional and aesthetic properties are required.
marketing. This business model enables
10
applications, where specific
SPECIALITY BUSINESS UNIT Part of H&R Africa’s innovative ways of doing business was branching into the commercial services space, which entails offering supply chain solutions to customers for their respective commodity purchases. What is unique about H&R Africa’s approach commodity trading is the types of contracts held with principal
COMPANY FOCUS
The H&R Africa team based at Mobeni, South Africa
The Middle East has proved to be a greenfield market for H&R Africa. While it has not had any real activity in the region, it has freedom to be as innovative as it like, which presents a unique opportunity for H&R to make a disruptive market entrance.
DRIVEN TO SUCCEED With the global H&R group celebrating 100 years in business this year, H&R Africa will continue to leverage
DID YOU KNOW?
H&R Group’s 10 decades of petrochemicals’
within in the industry linked to steady,
experience to On 16 December 2019, H&R Africa deliver reliable and will join H&R Group in celebrating sustainable solutions. Looking at the 100 years of industry-shaping German These values have company’s growth technology. It’s only fitting that H&R Africa takes this technology to Africa a long tradition, in Africa, Nigeria has and the Middle East, shaping which will continue been an interesting TechnoVation for the next extensively into the market for H&R Africa. 100 years. future. Building up to Although highly demanding
sustainable supply and customer
and complex, there are exciting
the 100 year celebration,
service. Customers trust H&R Africa
opportunities there. With Nigeria
2019 is already proving to be a
to be consistent in the supply and
being the biggest economy in Africa, it
successful year for H&R Africa. Its Mobeni
distribution of the internationally
has been a natural initial thrust for the
site is earmarked to become the main
manufactured performance
company’s FDI pursuits. As such, H&R
production hub for the business and
chemicals. To date, the successes
Africa has put ‘boots on the ground’ by
presents the company with an opportunity
of the speciality business unit have
appointing a business manager in Nigeria,
to install new technologies and enhance
been mainly in the dispersants and
who looks after the west Africa region.
its production capabilities and capacities
brighteners applications, within the
In the east, the company has been
to serve as H&R Africa’s headquarters. Full
very active in Kenya and Tanzania, which
development of the site is expected to be
are important hubs for accessing the rest
completed during 2022.
The H&R Africa team based in Durban, South Africa
manufacturers, its field technical support, storage capabilities and the company’s world-renowned customer service. H&R Africa’s speciality business unit was borne out of challenges
home care industry.
BOOTS ON THE GROUND
of east African market. The principle of
H&R Africa’s sidings are strategically
placing ‘boots on the ground’ is being
will continue to successfully pursue its
located in Durban, in close proximity to
appraised and will likely take place within
strategy of international expansion based
Africa’s busiest seaport. This location is
the short term.
on flexible manufacturing units, in order to
ideal for inbound and outbound supply
The southern and central African
chain optimisation, which helps the
regions are H&R Africa’s strong bases. By
company to maintain its reputation as
maintaining these markets, it has seen
a reliable supplier for domestic and
exciting organic growth with its long
international stakeholders.
term stakeholders.
H&R Africa, together with the H&R Group,
take advantage of growth opportunities in Africa and the Middle East. •
H&R Africa – sasales@hur.com
P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |
11
INGREDIENTS
How to formulate for
Afrilennials
Millennials believe they can shape a kinder, friendlier world where sustainability is the norm. When formulating for Afrilennials, bear in mind they thrive on authenticity, individuality and unforgettable experiences – just like Millennials. IMCD South Africa, together with Ashland and Millchem, hosted a seminar in February to inspire formulators to take new product development to the next level.
T
he all day
event, which took
Brands looking to make an impact in
Ashland’s consumer insights reveal a
place at The Roof venue in Infinity
the African hair care space should offer
number of interesting trends driving the
Business Park, Johannesburg, South
solutions that solve detangling challenges,
global hair care category. Consumers
Africa, featured IMCD’s Sustainable
reduce the time African women need to
want products tailored for their particular
Beauty Box, packed with cause driven hair
spend on their hair, aid moisture retention,
hair type or their own styling rituals. They
and skin care emulsions and actives, to
prevent breakage and enhance styling.
seek personalised products and services,
inspire South Africa’s leading formulators to design innovative products for Afrilennials.
‘Actives need to do more than sell a
desire transparency from brands and
promise,’ Mafupa commented. This is
scrutinise ingredient lists and claims. Hair
because African women want hair care
care products that allow consumers to
of excellent speakers. Evenes Ruth Mafupa
products that are effective and live up to
express themselves, feature cleaner labels
of the Natural Sisters hair care blog had
what they promise.
and underpin ease of use, help consumers
The programme also featured a series
guests captivated with her informative
make more efficient product choices.
presentation on African hair care trends.
TRACKING THE TRENDS
According to Mafupa, 69 percent of
David Popplewell, Ashland’s global
products to hair types as well as provide
African women use scalp treatments to
marketing manager for hair care, was in
guidance for customised care, such
combat dandruff, itching and flakes; light
South Africa for the seminar, to share his
as directed care routines,’ Popplewell
weight hair oils are an important part
extensive knowledge of the global hair care
explains. ‘Consumers are also interested in
of the hair care regime for 63 percent
market. Popplewell said the global market is
formulation solutions for damage, which
of African women and 56 percent are
set to reach US$93.9 billion in value by 2022,
is seeing an increase in the number of
interested in hair fragrances to keep their
with conditioners ranked as the second
care products to protect hair and prevent
hair smelling great.
biggest category. The CAGR of the global
damage. Interesting claims include bond
hair care market is predicted at 4.4 percent
building technology, defence against
circles, African hair can be worn in so
and in Africa it’s double that, at 8.8 percent.
damage and actives to improve hair’s
many different ways,’ Mafupa said. ‘What’s
This means there is massive growth potential
integrity. The head wear trend is driving
important is hair care products should
for brand owners and manufacturers within
the demand for new product formats while
cater to this diversity.’
the African hair care space.
we’re seeing a number of novel innovations
‘As we celebrate diversity in all life’s
Natalie MacGregor, business unit manager: pharmaceuticals and personal care, IMCD South Africa
12
Evenes Ruth Mafupa
| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa
David Popplewell
‘Brands can take inspiration to match
Henkel SA’s Synodia Bhasera
INGREDIENTS IMCD South Africa’s Sustainable Beauty Box
and broad pH applicability. Conarom™ b aromatic can be added to formulations at any phase of production when worked into products at ambient temperature. Typical uses include body and skin care emulsions, eye care products, sun care, shampoo and body washes, conditioners and wet wipes.•
REAL CONTRIBUTIONS TO A MORE SUSTAINABLE WORLD in the dry shampoo category based on
irritation. Both options are ideal for baby
styling and fragrance delivery systems.
wipes, which are generally preserved with
Clear shampoos and conditioners are also
phenoxyethanol. One percent of Optiphen
very trendy.’
DP is a good alternative to phenoxyethanol to preserve baby wipes.
PROGRESSIVE PRESERVATIVES
Conarom b aromatic – Ashland's
Ashland offers a variety of sustainable
mildest preservation technology – is
and modern approaches to product
the nature identical to Phenylpropanol.
preservation, which were showcased
Conarom b addresses the demand
during the seminar.
for multifunctional and sustainable
Its Optiphen preservatives are
ingredients. At dosages of between
approved for use in all major markets and
0.3 to two percent, it contributes to
compatible with a variety of formulations.
microbial stabilisation by delivering broad
These preservatives are based on
antimicrobial protection as a secondary
Phenoxyethanol, the most commonly used
effect. Formulators will appreciate the
preservative in Europe followed by organic
liquid state, good formulation compatibility
acids, making them free from paraben, formaldehyde and halogens. products in the Optiphen range are effective against gram-positive and gramnegative bacteria, yeast and mould and across a wide pH range and are easily solubilised in water. technologies for basic and multifaceted formulations, ranging from complex to
safety by limiting the probability of skin
3. Quality education through programmes for employee development.
6. IMCD South Africa sponsors three children at the Heart of Hope Children’s home, contributing to their medical aid needs, schooling and extra activities throughout the year.
With its Optiphen range, Ashland offers
to parabens. They help ensure product
2 . Zero hunger by preserving rural living standards and working with small community groups and social projects on ingredients such as virgin coconut oil, shea butter and argan oil; as well as careful use of natural resources and reusing feedstocks not suitable for food manufacturing.
5. IMCD Germany contributes to a therapeutic horse riding programme that helps to develop children’s co-ordination and balance whilst building muscle strength.
offer excellent heat stability. They work
and DLP are both suitable alternatives
1. No poverty by adding value within regional communities where possible, such as obtaining crude shea butter from Africa instead of purchasing nuts; working with a partner in Africa, who engages with thousands of women self-help groups and tribal people to ensure higher than market related prices are paid for ingredients, creating a sustainable supply chain for its mango kernel butter and shorea butter.
4. Gender equality by empowering women to be financially independent with its Star shea butter and by supporting women entrepreneurs with its argan oil programme.
Challenge tested at 0.5 percent,
easy to use preservatives. Optiphen DP
The UN Sustainable Development Goals call for action to promote prosperity while protecting the planet. IMCD makes a number of valuable contributions to:
Ana Da Costa, IMCD South Africa’s customer solutions manager
7. IMCD China collects points with every purchase it makes which are redeemable for charity donations. The end result is contribution covering a full year’s school tuition for a migrant worker’s child in Shangai, China, where access to schooling, healthcare and social infrastructure is restricted. 8. IMCD Benelux promotes sustainable trading partnerships to help local women maintain a decent livelihood and gain financial independence through the harvesting of shea butter in Ghana.
Jackie Swart, R&D manager at Ascendis Health; Giulio Pozzobon, Millchem’s national sales manager for cosmetics and detergency; and Chris Damen, Millchem’s sales director
Ashland – www.ashland.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za Millchem – www.millchem.co.za
P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |
13
INGREDIENTS
Don’t sweat the search for
antiperspirant actives When it comes to antiperspirant solutions, ChemSystems has got you covered. The company’s solutions cover current and new innovations in antiperspirant technology.
The wide range of applications of a liquid format antiperspirant active
By Jacques Strydom
Liquid AP active
Aqueous roll on
Hydro alcoholic roll on
Aqueous cream
Pump spray
Clear gel
Hydro solid
Hydro alcoholic aerosol
Achieve L1050 & L7048 Achieve L5335, L5340, L5435, L5440, L5535 & L5835 Achieve L9082
A
luminium chlorohydrate (ACH)
solution containing aluminium zirconium
affordable active solution outperforms other
has been the workhorse of the
tetrachlorohydrex and is easily formulated
patented gel actives.
antiperspirant market for the
into any roll on, cream or clear gel. It is
last three decades. It offers a
more effective than regular ACH and
aerosols which uses a patented molecule
extremely stable in the final formulation.
to yield enhanced performance and is
reduction in perspiration and creates a
Aero+ is an affordable powder active for
clinically proven to have superior sweat
skin environment hostile to the growth of malodour producing bacteria, helping
NEW FOR THE MARKET
reduction benefits. The active doesn’t
diminish underarm odour.
The antiperspirant market has been lacking
cause skin irritation and doesn’t leave
in innovation in the last 35 years, partly due
behind a white residue. AP+ is a new active
antiperspirant actives, offers ACH as an
to the FDA antiperspirant active matrix. This
for stick applications which offers 15 to 20
odourless, clear 50 percent solution,
controls how AP actives can be designed
percent better sweat reduction than the
marketed under the trade name Achieve
to promote effective products that protect
most effective antiperspirant actives on the
L1050. The unique morphology of this
consumers. Some would argue innovation
market. It rounds off the innovative Plus r
active significantly reduces the incidence
in this market is dead, but ChemSystems
ange of products, offering a solution for
of stains and white marks, which are
begs to differ, particularly with the
all possible applications in antiperspirant
common when using antiperspirants.
acclaimed Plus range.
product technology. •
ChemSystems, a key supplier of
The non-irritating nature of the active
Dry On+ is considered the highest
has been verified by dermatologists.
performing antiperspirant active in the
Achieve L5435 is an odourless 35 percent
market for gel and roll on applications. This
14
| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa
ChemSystems – www.chemsystems.co.za
HAIR CARE
Proteins – hero ingredients to replenish hair
Using proteomics, Croda has taken biomimetics to the next level, facilitating a broader understanding of how hair type and damage may impact the hair fibre on a fundamental level and contribute to a loss in protein. Its R&D team focused on African hair, before and after a lye-based relaxer treatment.
V
arious hair care routines can impart damage on hair. For example, bleaching, curling and combing often leads to
brittle, dry and difficult to manage hair. It is understood that different styling treatments can damage hair in numerous ways. Keratin makes up around 91 percent of the hair structure when dry and is composed of two parts: the external cuticle and internal cortex. Keratin is the name given to the cystine containing proteins found in hair fibres. Proteins and protein derivatives are commonly used in hair care products as a biomimetic solution to restore what is naturally found in hair. The logic of protecting and replenishing hair’s keratin proteins with keratin derivatives, or treating ‘like with like’, has increased in popularity in recent years.
METHOD
harsh analysis. The team developed
We took a subtler approach to assess
a method that analyses at the labile
corresponding intermediate filament
the proteins easily leached from hair, as
proteins leached from the hair fibre
protein, its function and sometimes,
opposed to determining hair’s overall
into water, as we felt this was a closer
even where it is expressed, for example,
protein content, which is an extremely
reflection of consumers’ practices.
in the cortex.
20% Relative Humidity
We were then able to determine the
Croda has started to utilise proteomics
80% Relative Humidity
to assess the fundamental differences in
2.50E-02
the proteins leached from hair into water, depending on the hair type and damage mechanisms. The company has begun
Break Stress (gmf / µm2)
2.00E-02
to show how different hair types and damage mechanisms can contribute to
*
a loss of protein from the hair fibre.
1.50E-02 *
To determine this, two extremes were compared. The team analysed European
1.00E-02
hair and compared it to African hair, not only because of the vast differences in curl type, but also due to its notoriety of
5.00E-03
being difficult to manage. They decided to use a relaxer treatment to damage
0.00E+00
these hair types, as it is arguably one Virgin African Hair (Untreated)
Relaxed African Hair (Untreated)
Relaxed African Hair (Treated with 1% active ProSina)
A graph to show the improvement of the tensile strength of African hair after treatment with ProSina under different humidity conditions (n~50, *p<0.05 relative to untreated relaxed African hair)
16
| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa
of the harshest treatments that can be performed and is a common practice for people with higher curl types. Although
HAIR CARE
it increases the manageability of the
proteins within the hair. The proteomic
hair, it often causes a loss in strength
analysis showed far more proteins were
and overall quality. Utilising this protein
leached from African hair than European
analysis technique, they assessed the
hair – not only more proteins but also
proteins leached from the following:
a completely different set. They also
• African hair (curl type VII)
found that relaxing the hair severely
• A frican hair (curl type VII) after a lye-
Fluorescent image of hair soaked for one hour with tagged ProSina
affected the protein loss profile for both
the structural building blocks of keratin
based relaxer
African and European hair, including
fibres. This novel hydrolysis process
• European hair
a completely different set of proteins.
also allows ProSina to maintain a high
• relaxed European hair.
Some of these proteins were known to be
level of cystine relative to other forms of
They analysed the proteins leached
expressed within the cortex of the hair.
hydrolysed keratin. Utilising proteomic
from these hair types into water, being
Satisfying the demand for increasingly
analysis, we found that ProSina contains
the most labile and weakly bound
tailored and individualised hair care
peptides that match the keratin proteins
treatments, this technique can also
leached from relaxed African hair.
DID YOU KNOW?
Proteomics is a scientific technique used to identify and quantify proteins within a biological system. Within hair care, it has advanced the understanding of the composition of human hair, how damage affects its structure on a fundamental level and how this can contribute to a loss of protein.
be used to match leached peptides to
Some of these matching peptides
the treatment peptides found in Croda
contained in ProSina and leached
products, providing recommendations
from relaxed African hair correspond
on how to replenish lost proteins.
to proteins usually expressed in the cortex. To determine the delivery of
REPLENISHMENT
ProSina peptides into the hair, we utilised
Taking protein replenishment a step
fluorescent microscopy. Fluorescently
further, they then assessed a host of
tagging ProSina gave us the ability to
Croda’s protein-based ingredients.
determine the delivery of the peptides
ProSina is a unique hydrolysed keratin,
to the hair. They found that soaking
manufactured using a proprietary
relaxed African hair for one hour in a
process that retains intact forms of
one percent w/w solution (0.1 percent
intermediate filament proteins. These are
active) of ProSina allowed the peptides to
P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |
17
HAIR CARE 4000
Average Cycles until Breakage
3500
ProSina was incorporated into a basic rinse off conditioner at a 0.2 percent
3000
active level. This was then applied to the 2500
hair using the following protocol: • V irgin/relaxed hair previously washed
2000
with basic shampoo • C onditioner applied to hair and then
1500
massage for one minute • C onditioner was left on hair for
1000
two minutes • H air was rinsed with warm water.
500
Treatment using Croda’s global hair 0
Relaxed African hair (Untreated)
Relaxed African hair (Treated with Conditioner)
Relaxed African hair (Treated with Conditioner with 0.2% active ProSina)
Average number of stress cycles required to break relaxed African hair strands, and strands treated with a rinse-off conditioner with and without ProSina. This shows that treatment using ProSina increases the number of cycles to break.
conditioner reduces the number of cycles to break as the relaxed hair is already so damaged and any plasticisation offered by the basic conditioner softens the damaged fibre making it weaker. Although this was an unexpected result, it was confirmed with repeated testing.
deposit on the cuticle and penetrate into
structural interactions of ProSina within
the cortex. It’s believed that by damaging
the fibre and not as a result of moisture
the hair, more of the protein was able
binding alone, which is often the case of
the plasticising effect but also increases
to be delivered to the cortex. This was
underivatised proteins.
the strength of relaxed African hair.
CYCLIC TESTING
CONCLUSION
Further testing was conducted on African
By analysing the proteins easily leached
TENSILE TESTING
hair in Croda’s Centre of Excellence
into water and assessing the peptide
This method of testing is commonly used
in South Africa. Utilising cyclic fatigue
content of many different protein-
to assess hair strength. Proof of concept
testing, a new technique for evaluating
based ingredients in the Croda range,
testing was performed on virgin African
hair strength, we could determine the
ProSina was found to contain peptides
hair and relaxed African hair with and
strengthening benefits of ProSina.
that match those in proteins easily lost
The use of ProSina not only mitigates
not observed when the experiment was repeated with non-damaged, virgin hair.
Cyclic fatigue testing is a method
from relaxed African hair. This allows
used to assess hair strength. Instead
Croda to build upon the biomimetic
to determine the effect of ProSina on
of using high forces required in
approach to proteins within hair care,
the strength and quality of the hair. The
traditional tensile testing, hair fibres are
by suggesting protein-based products
test was completed both at 20 and 80
placed under very low tension, before
to replenish specific peptides into the
percent relative humidity. We observed
the tension is released. This cycle is
hair, depending on the hair type and
a significant increase in tensile strength
repeated until the fibre breaks due to
the damage inflicted. •
when relaxed African hair was treated
the propagation of cracks and flaws in
with ProSina. Testing, both at high and
the hair strand. The number of cycles
low humidity, allows Croda to determine
can be used as a measure of the hair’s
the positive effects are likely due to some
resistance to breakage.
without the treatment of ProSina. A one percent active level was used
18
Croda – www.crodapersonalcare.com
Raw Material for all your Personal Care needs
Crest Chemicals
Better together with Crest Chemicals www.crestchem.co.za
Contact us: Johannesburg (011) 254 3300 Cape Town (021) 534 3140 Durban (031) 902 5324 London (043) 726 8027 Port Elizabeth (041) 453 1981
| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa
HAIR CARE
Natural is the new normal With the move toward natural beauty, many consumers are adopting new hair care routines. Whether its hair maintenance, special treatments and styling, consumers want hair and skin care products that enhance their unique and natural features rather than masking them to conform to traditional beauty standards.
A
shower gel cleanse skin while sloughing off the dull layers. Its shea moisturising body lotion delivers a nourishing and protective barrier to keep skin happy and hydrated.
THE ENVIRONMENTAL INFLUENCE Water scarcity affects one in three people in Africa. Rising population numbers, urbanisation and additional household and industrial uses of water
lthough individualised hair and
Consumers with textured hair are also
skin care is on trend globally,
interested in product innovations that
products for textured hair
address their individual needs and style
and dark skin were previously
aspirations appropriately.
underrepresented in the market.
By bringing new, protective formulas
Understanding the growing demand for
to market, even higher value is placed
these products, Lubrizol is proud to offer a
on better quality products that nourish
new line of formulations designed to meet
and protect fragile hair, hydrate the
the needs of African consumers.
scalp and keep the damaging effects of
The Essentials is a collection inspired
environmental aggressors at bay.
by and created for consumers in
Lubrizol’s stimulating sugar scrub for the
African markets. Each formulation
scalp and its sebum control scalp mask
features a combination of Lubrizol’s high
help to maintain the health of textured
performing ingredients along with locally
hair. The curl activator hair gel and
sourced raw materials. To keep fragile
strong and extra strong styling gels
hair and dry skin as healthy as possible,
provide a spectrum of hold to achieve
the company has developed styling
a variety of styles with any hair type, no
formulas for braids and curls, nourishing
matter the climate.
lotions and exfoliating cleansers for the scalp and body, which include some of
FEEL GOOD IN YOUR SKIN
Lubrizol’s most advanced technologies.
Skin care for dark skin types is starting to get the attention it deserves. Dark skin
THE RIGHT CARE FOR HAIR
sheds its outer layers at a higher rate
Textured hair is known to be some of the
than other skin types, it contains lower
most delicate, fragile and unruliest hair
ceramide levels and is often subjected
in the world. Consumers with textured
to harsh climates.
hair require more maintenance and
There is an increased need in the
styling products that provide hair health
Ethnic care category for products
benefits, calm their curls and control frizz,
that restore moisturisation. Those that
even in extreme environments. Lubrizol’s
prevent an ashy appearance of skin,
nourishing and conditioning shampoo,
especially products enriched with quality
pink hair moisturising lotion and its three
ingredients like shea butter and coconut
in one braid spray tame textured locks
oil are in high demand. Lubrizol’s coconut
and protect them from damage.
pearlised shower gel and fruity exfoliating
continue to put pressure on this dwindling resource. While protection from the hot and arid climate is important to African consumers, so is protection from harmful bacteria and the ability to live healthily on a limited supply of potable water. Lubrizol’s hand sanitiser gel helps consumers overcome this challenge by providing a convenient, no-rinse solution to sanitise hands. •
REGIONAL EXPERTISE THROUGH NEW APPOINTMENT
Dedicated to the evolution of technology and capabilities to meet ever-changing market demands, Lubrizol continues to expand its global presence with industry experts. The company is proud to announce it is strengthening its footprint in the region with the recent appointment of Zaheer Ernest as business development manager. With over 10 years’ chemical industry experience gained throughout sub-Saharan Africa and four years’ specific focus on personal care, Lubrizol is excited to add Ernest’s knowledge to its global expertise to better serve customers in the region, together with its distribution partners, Carst & Walker and Savannah Fine Chemicals. •
Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Lubrizol – www.lubrizol.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |
19
HAIR CARE
The ultimate beauty accessory is
healthy hair
As the natural hair trend continues to spread in Africa, consumers are adopting styles and maintenance habits that help them achieve a healthy scalp, manageable hair and vibrant colour. Through its international principals, Savannah Fine Chemicals offers innovative ingredients for products that address modern hair care concerns.
C
onsidering the specifics associated with the different textures of African hair, Toya Mitchell, a multicultural
analyst at Mintel says it’s important for brands to develop products that target each hair type and meet consumers diverse expectations. ‘Product innovation, expanded retail distribution and brand messaging recognise that the future of the black hair care market is dependent on chemical-free consumers,’ she explains. While natural hair is the norm, African consumers have different attitudes, beauty standards and motivations behind their style and product choices, including chemically treated hair.
69 PERCENT OF AFRICAN WOMEN USE SCALP TREATMENTS TO COMBAT THE SYMPTOMS OF DANDRUFF
According to Mintel research, black consumers in African countries often
flaking of scales, itching and redness.
action profile, Ichthyol Pale provides a
purchase products that target the
According to Ichthyol-Gesellschaft, an
wider approach to address all symptoms
following needs: chemical treated
independent pharmaceutical company
associated with dandruff, offering an
hair, anti-frizz, scalp care products and
based in Hamburg, Germany, the main
enhanced prospective for successful
products that can potentially reduce
active ingredients used in treatment
treatment. Ichthyol Pale is well known
certain environmental effects.
schemes for dandruff have anti-fungal
for its broad spectrum of efficacy. It
actions only. These actives include ZPT,
efficiently removes scales from the
FIGHT THE FLAKES
Ketoconazole and Piroctone Olamine,
scalp, while offering anti-microbial,
According to research, 69 percent of
which are said to lack the actual
anti-inflammatory, anti-seborrheic and
African women use scalp treatments
properties needed to address the
anti-itching benefits to successfully
to combat the symptoms of dandruff –
symptoms of dandruff.
counter the symptoms of dandruff.
itching and flakes. Jostylin, a YouTube
Identifying a gap in the market for
Because of its multifunctionality and
hair enthusiast, natural hair care blogger
pharma grade ingredients to treat skin
good tolerance, in recent studies Ichthyol
and founder of the African hair care
disorders such as dandruff, Ichthyol-
Pale was shown to be superior to well-
brand, JoStylin says ‘the struggle is real
Gesellschaft developed the substance,
established anti-dandruff agents like Zinc
for many of us naturals. First dryness,
Ichthyol, many years ago. It is based on
Pyrithione, Piroctone Olamine and Coal
breakage, then finding out why our hair
sulphonated shale oils of the highest
Tar. Studies have also shown it can boost
just won’t grow, coupled with having
purity. A variant of Ichthyol, Ichthyol
the performance of Ketoconazole. An
to deal with horrible white flakes on our
Pale is a multi-component mixture of
anti-dandruff shampoo formulated with
beautiful natural, black African hair’.
different compounds with a high content
a combination of 0.5 percent of Ichthyol
of organically combined sulphur. It is
Pale and 0.5 percent Ketoconazole
vicious cycle of excessive desquamation
distinguished by a broad action profile
was found to be more effective than
where local inflammatory processes,
including anti-inflammatory, sebo-
a shampoo containing 1.0 percent of
microbial colonisation of the scalp
suppressive and anti-microbial effects
ketoconazole alone. With 71 percent
and over-secretion of oil glands often
used to treat skin blemishes, erythema
improvement in itching and 75 percent
concur. The main symptoms are
and dandruff. Because of its broad
improvement in skin redness after a
Dandruff is often referred to as a
20
| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa
HAIR CARE
mere 56 percent improvement in itching
(20 percent water by weight) and has
with no improvement in skin redness at
been shown to enable rich, long-lasting
all. Effects on scaling were similar.
colour performance with excellent grey coverage. Due to its high alkalinity and
HAIR CARE GETS SOCIAL Online platforms like social media are a growing channel for the African hair care market. Mintel research shows 68 percent of black women aged between 18 and 34 are interested in using social media to search for how-to video tutorials. Beyond learning about styles, social media is where African consumers are doing their shopping, with 32 percent of black consumers purchasing hair care products online.
RICH, LONG-LASTING COLOUR
low volatility, the alkalising agent is an
Stylists and consumers used to perceive
ideal low-odour alternative to ammonia
colouring textured African hair as
in oxidative hair colourants. Colour
taboo, because it resulted in brittleness,
performance of black and red shades
irritation and breakage. The reality is
using DMAMP Ultra PC is comparable
any ethnicity or hair type can use hair
to hair dyes formulated with ammonia
dye – even textured African hair can be
which are currently on the market. This
dyed a light brown, bright red, hue of
alkalising agent from Angus outperforms
pink and or a shade of blue. These days,
other low-odour alkalisers and provides
in the hair colouring segment, consumer
formulators with an alternative solution
trends lean more towards chemical
that deposits rich hair colour and
awareness. Ammonia has been used
provides superior wash fastness of colour.
for years as the most robust alkaliser for
Ingredients and formulation technologies
colour palette and performance, yet
from Ichthyol-Gesellschaft and Angus are
consumers have become highly aware of
available throughout southern Africa and
its unpleasant odour. To address growing
key east and west African markets from
consumer demand for low-odour hair
Savannah Fine Chemicals. •
colorants, Angus Chemical Company (Angus) has introduced DMAMP Ultra PC (INCI: Dimethylamino Methylpropanol).
treatment phase of just two weeks, the
This multifunctional alkalising agent
combination product outpaced the
is suitable for use in professional
Ketoconazole shampoo considerably.
and retail oxidative hair colourants.
The Ketoconazole shampoo resulted in a
DMAMP Ultra PC is 80 percent active
Angus Chemical Company – www.angus.com Ichthyol-Gesellschaft – www.ichthyol.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.com
P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |
21
HAIR CARE
Figure 1: A serum with 0.25 percent of Bio-Capigen Veg increased KRT1 expression by 26 percent
Vegan alternatives for textured hair
Bio-Capigen Veg is a plant-based keratin alternative for use in anti-hair loss and hair growth formulas. With the growing natural and cruelty free ingredients trend, the industry is actively promoting vegan-friendly ingredients.
A
lthough many ingredients
ability to bind moisture and improve the
are plant based, it is still
hair strength, reducing damage caused
a challenge to ensure
by bleaching, perming and combing.
ingredients used in cosmetics
tick all the boxes for vegans. Cobiosa’s Bio-Capigen Veg, available
Figure 2: A 10.2 percent in hair count is recorded after 28 days of cleansing hair with three percent Bio-Capigen Veg
REVITALISE HAIR EFFECTIVELY The peptidic fractions or phytostimulins
throughout southern Africa from
are characterised by their ability
Botanichem, is a vegetable alternative
to stimulate cellular vital functions,
to animal keratin and placenta and
increasing the energy potential of cells,
alopecia used a shampoo with three
suitable for use as an anti-hair loss
their oxygen consumption and cellular
percent Bio-Capigen Veg and one
and hair growth complex. The active
renewal, for stronger hair.
ampoule dose of 10 percent, three
ingredient is derived from red onion
In vitro testing of Bio-Capigen Veg
times a week for 28 days. After 28 days,
extract of the bulbs of Allium cepa,
for keratin (KRT1) stimulation showed a
there was a 10.2 percent (see Figure 2)
which has a long history of traditional
serum with 0.25 percent of the active
increase in hair count, a 10.9 percent
use in Chinese medicine. Its properties to
ingredient increased KRT1 expression by
increase in hair density and a
stimulate hair growth are well known and
26 percent, compared to an untreated
13.1 percent increase in anagen/
it has been proven effective in treating
control (see Figure 1).
telogen ratio. Bio-Capigen Veg also
This result is significant for textured
Alopecia areata.
contains ginseng to stimulate hair
hair because the keratin helps eliminate
growth, zinc to limit sebum activity,
hydrolysed soy protein and a balanced
excessive frizz and rebel curl, maintaining
glucose as a valuable source of energy
composition of peptides, amino acids
cuticular homogeneity. It also maintains
in the anagen or growth phase of the
and mineral salts. The soy protein
moisture by sealing cuticular scales and
follicle and a range of vitamins for
presents an important percentage of
improves strength and elasticity – which
general hair vitality. •
essential amino acids, not synthesised
are both major issues of Ethnic hair.
Bio-Capigen Veg is also made of
by an organism and practically equal
During in vivo testing for hair growth
to those in hair keratin. Proteins are
stimulation and anti-hair loss properties,
important for hair as they increase its
21 male volunteers with androgenic
Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za Cobiosa – www.cobiosa.com
Stability Testing Services, a division of Botanichem, offers a well equipped onsite laboratory for independent stability testing for the cosmetic industry. Stability testing is vital to ensure your product maintains its intended physical, chemical & microbiological quality. We offer: • Stability Testing • Regulatory Labelling • Formulation • Product Information Files for Export FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT ROBYN OR LINA. 011 425 2206 OR 011 425 2648 info@botanichem.co.za / lina@botanichem.co.za
22
| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa
ADVERTORIAL
SENSIENT’S portfolio of coatings Easy to use solutions for your brand Sensient has the expertise to add value to your product, from coloured coating solutions in a tablet application to extracts with added flavour benefits for liquid suspensions.
M
anufacturers need a wide variety of thin film coatings for nutraceutical applications. This is to ensure they meet consumers’ needs for convenience and personalisation, while ensuring products fit the requirements of e-commerce. Coating systems need to provide aesthetically pleasing attributes as well as functional benefits.
SENSIENT’S LABORATORY EXPERTISE PROVIDES CUSTOMERS WITH A COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE Sensient is a worldwide leader in developing colour, flavour, extract and coating excipient solutions from R&D through to manufacturing. Its global supply and manufacturing capabilities ensure consistent product availability and flexible, reliable delivery. The company’s market specialists identify both mega and micro trends shaping consumer behaviour across the globe, or in a customer’s specific area of interest. Sensient leverages this information to help customers develop, launch and capitalise on the most marketable new concepts. Sensient achieves this through
proprietary processes, computerised sensory and consumer data, a state-ofthe-art analytical lab and fully equipped supporting pilot plants.
EASY TO USE COATING SYSTEMS
Today’s consumers want more functionality, added benefits and, above all, efficacy in pharmaceuticals. Sensient understands consumers and how to market the best solution to meet their needs. Sensient’s laboratory expertise provides customers with a competitive advantage in the choice of raw materials with greater efficiency, in a more reliable and convenient delivery of ingredients, improved quality control, lower processing costs and improved product stability.
PROTECT™ ENTERIC
Protect™ is a high efficiency enteric coating solution, which is a twocomponent shellac based system. Shellac is an enteric neutral polymer used for sealing as well as taste and odour masking. This easy to use solution outperforms other enteric coatings due to enhanced stability. As a fully customisable coating, Protect™ Enteric can provide unique colour and visual appeal for brand definition through added colour or flavour.
MASTERCOTE™
Where a sugar coating is desired, Mastercote can deliver advanced stable colouring options from glycerin/ propylene glycol-based systems, oil or wax based systems, and/or sugar syrupbased systems. Sensient’s progressive technology brings out bright, vibrant and natural colour for clean label solutions, by way of an easy to use coating system. Mastercote eliminates the need for expensive air filtering devices often required in manufacturing plants by providing an easy to measure, dust free option, which reduces the likelihood of costly errors. It also delivers coloured sugar-based coating system advantages with higher solids and smooth surfaces. To learn more about these cost-effective and easy to use coating solutions, contact Sensient today. •
Sensient Technologies South Africa E-mail: patricia.kruger@sensient.com Website: www.sensient.com P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |
23
GC Smart 500, Glatt’s intelligent pan coating system
PHARMA FOCUS: OSD FORMS
How to solve your
tablet coating problems For tablet-based medicines, pharma plants in Africa need the capacity to produce roughly half a billion tablets annually to be competitive to India. P C Africa shares advice from Glatt on how to overcome 10 key challenges in the tablet coating process.
P
harmaceutical markets in subSaharan Africa are growing at a rapid pace as governments and healthcare providers battle
PROBLEM
DESCRIPTION
POSSIBLE EXPLANATIONS
SOLUTIONS
Tablet surface is rough or uneven
• distance between nozzle and tablet bed is incorrect • spray angle is wrong • dispersion sedimentation • viscosity or solid content is too high • high friability from inadequate core properties • incorrect atomising air pressure (too high or low)
• increase the spray rate • decrease drying capacity • reduce atomising air pressure • decrease viscosity • optimise distance between the nozzle and tablet bed
Filling in of the logo or break line
• viscosity is too high • plasticiser content is too low • spray rate is too high • atomising air pressure is incorrect
• decrease viscosity • increase plasticiser content • reduce the spray rate • adjust the spray pressure
Two or more tablets stick together
• over-humidification • process air volume is too low • unsuitable tablet shape planar
• reduce spray rate • increase the drying capacity • optimise tablet form to biconvex • use releasing agents in the formulation
Coatings are ripped off when tablets stick
• pan speed is too low • air temperature is too low • process air volume is too low • spray rate is too high • process is too damp
• increase the pan speed • increase the inlet air temperature • increase the process air volume • reduce the spray rate
Grey layer forms on the tablet surface
• TiO2 quantity is too high • interaction occurs between the drum wall and the coating
• reduce TiO2 quantity • spray the drum prior to the trial
Film surface detaches from the tablet
• hygroscopic core • disintegrants are used
• use a subcoat • optimise process parameters
Batch colour is varied
• coverage properties of the coating are insufficient • solid content of the suspension is too high • weight gain level is too low • batch quantity is too low
• add more pigment to increase coverage property • reduce the solid content • increase weight gain level
• application rate is too low • API interacts with the coating material • low opacity • API diffuses from the core • overhumidification
• increase weight gain • adapt the formulation or change the pigments • increase coverage properties of the coating formulation • use a subcoat • increase tablet bed temperature
Orange peel/ roughness
the burdens of disease. Although the continent is home to only 15 percent of the world’s population, disease is one of its biggest challenges. The drive to control and ultimately, eradicate communicable diseases
Logo bridging
such as HIV/Aids and tuberculosis presents pharma manufacturers with immense opportunities for growth in the Africa market. In sub-Saharan Africa,
Twinning
countries such as Kenya, Nigeria and South Africa have a relatively sizable pharmaceutical industry, according to McKinsey & Company. Dozens of the pharma companies in these countries
Sticking and ripping off coating
produce everything from simple, small molecules, such as generics in tablet, capsule and syrup formats to the more complex combination drugs, injectables
Scuffing
and vaccines. These pharma products are produced for regional consumption
Capping
and, in some cases, to export to neighbouring countries. Pharma industry information released
Batch colour variation
in January by McKinsey & Company
Individual colour variation Uneven colour on individual tablets
Peeling Film spalling due to coating cracking
• tablet swells • plasticiser content is too low • tablet is too wet • tablet hardness in insufficient • tablet outgasses
Friability
Tablet mass reduced due to abrasion
An interior view showing the innovative spray technology within the GC Smart 500
24
| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa
• mechanical stress • tablets are too soft • tablets are too damp • pan speed is too high
• use a subcoat • increase plasticiser content • spray with drier conditions • increase the film forming polymer • reduce the pan speed • optimise the core formulation • spraying with drier conditions • use the interval ‘jog mode’ while heating cores
DID YOU KNOW?
reveals there are roughly 375 manufacturers of pharmaceutical products on the
PHARMA FOCUS: OSD FORMS
Africa carries nearly 24 percent of the global disease in pharma applications. Film burden, making the demand coatings provide a broad for medicines and other range of functions such pharmaceutical products as taste or odour masking, greater than ever. controlled release of the active
continent to serve a population of around 1.3 billion people. Most of these producers
ingredients and physical and chemical protection. Glatt, represented throughout
is the integrated ‘wash in place/clean in place’ system. Coupled with a watertight housing, the system provides complete cleaning of the coating drum and interior housing. A set of hinged access doors on the left and right side of the housing provide easy access to the exhaust and inlet air connections for
are based in North Africa. Producers in
sub-Saharan Africa by Reitech SA – a
cleaning, inspection and maintenance.
sub-Saharan Africa are largely clustered
supplier of packaging machinery and
Because coating formulation and the
in just nine of 46 countries and they are
engineering solutions for the pharma
tablet coating process are both relatively
mostly small, with operations that do not
and FMCG industries, produces
complex and can lead to problems
meet international standards. Because
perforated coating pans. These
during production, Glatt has put together
the economies, technical capabilities
modern tablet coating machines have
comprehensive information on the
and expertise vary from one country
removeable nozzle arms, free hanging
possible film coating problems and
to the next, challenges can occur
drums and swinging side doors. Process
how to prevent or overcome them. The
when manufacturing pharmaceutical
air flow is controlled according to
information is provided in-conjunction
products. For this reason, it’s imperative
temperature, humidity and volume. The
with Biogrund, a German company that
to leverage the expertise of industry
coating is sprayed from the air-atomized
specialises in the development and
suppliers, such as Glatt, which is a
nozzles positioned directly above the
production of solid oral dosage forms.
market leader in life science systems
tablet bed. The process airflow is used
Its unique and ready to use film coating,
for the refinement and processing of
for drying and it’s controlled to regulate
sugar-coating, tabletting and colouring
pharmaceutical powders.
the drying rate.Glatt’s design provides
products are said to guarantee optimal
complete isolation of the mechanical
production results in a short time. •
FILM COATING IN FOCUS
drive system from the product processing
Perforated coating pans are typically
area, ensuring maximum containment
used for aqueous and solvent film
and facilitating cGMP compliance.
coating and sugar coating of tablets
Another essential aspect of the design
Biogrund – www.biogrund.com Glatt – www.glatt.com Reitech SA – www.reitech.co.za
www.glatt.com
Glatt. MultiLab.
The All in One Solution for OSD Lab Processes.
Glatt. Pelletizing System.
The Solution for “High Drug Loading” Pellets.
Glatt. TwinPro.
The Future of Process Fusion.
Glatt. Integrated Process Solutions.
P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |
25
INDUSTRY TALK
Poorer African nations
succeed in fighting NTDs In the war against diseases of poverty, commonly known as neglected tropical diseases, African countries with modest national incomes are outperforming some richer nations on the continent. This is according to a new league table ranking.
N
eglected tropical diseases
South Africa and Equatorial Guinea (both
(NTDs) such as blinding
‘medium income’ by the UN measure),
trachoma, the leading cause
or Gabon and Botswana (both ‘higher
of infectious blindness – or
income’ according to the UN) were all
intestinal worms that can stunt growth
ranked in the bottom third of the disease
in children, are endemic in poor
fighters’ league table.
communities without access to clean
However, Botswana looks set to change
water and with inadequate sewerage systems. These diseases affect 1.6 billion people worldwide – that’s one in five on the planet – including over 600 million people in Africa. The league table ranks the countries according to their
this with its late 2018 pledge to use
DID YOU KNOW?
its own domestic resources to eliminate all neglected tropical diseases found
within its borders, starting NTDs were once prevalent throughout the world, this year. including in western countries. Botswana joins But they are now almost Mozambique, which also exclusively endemic made a commitment to to developing allocate US$6 million of nations.
performance in reaching
domestic resources to fight
NTDs. Most endemic countries
everyone in need with the
receive outside help for their elimination
necessary treatment, across the five
programmes. The organisation, Uniting
most common NTDs in Africa, which
to Combat Neglected Tropical Diseases,
are amenable to mass treatment. The
hopes to see an increase in the levels of
countries treating the highest proportion of
funding coming from domestic sources
those in need across all five diseases rank
for fighting these diseases. The highest
highest in the table.
ranking country in this year’s disease
The table shows Malawi, Sierra Leone
fighters league table is eSwatini (the
and Togo – all three countries with modest
former Swaziland). While the number
national incomes – have, for the third
of people in need of treatment in
year running, reported high treatment
eSwatini is much smaller than Nigeria, as
levels to those in need across five disease
eSwatini still scores highly because of its
categories. The World Health Organization
commitment to reach every individual in
(WHO) reckons if countries consistently
need of treatment.
However, African Heads of State put them in the spotlight at the current AU Summit through the African Leaders Malaria Alliance (ALMA). This forum tracks the fight against malaria and, since 2018, reviews the fight against NTDs. NTDs are known as diseases of poverty because they thrive in communities with limited resources and perpetuate low income by limiting the ability of individuals to work and go to school. They cause disability and stigma and can even lead to death. Considerable progress has been made against NTDs. In 2018, Ghana passed a milestone. The country’s President, Nana Akufo-Addo comments: ‘We became the first sub-Saharan African country to eliminate blinding trachoma, a painful and debilitating disease. We cannot achieve the sustainable development goals without addressing the needs of the
treat and protect more than 75 percent of people needing care, across the five
PREVENTABLE AND TREATABLE
diseases, they are on track to beating the
The five most common NTDs amenable to
diseases. Malawi, Sierra Leone and Togo
mass treatment are blinding trachoma,
all reached the 75 percent average target.
intestinal worms, mosquito-borne
All three nations are in the ‘lower
elephantiasis, snail-borne bilharzia
income’ bracket of the UN Human
and river blindness. All five NTDs can be
Development Index, which is a broad
prevented or treated with medicines
measure of national wealth.
donated by pharmaceutical companies
AFFLUENT YET NOT ON TRACK
to endemic countries. NTDs rarely make headline news
Richer African countries with a higher
because they tend to afflict the poorest
UN Human Development Index such as
and most marginalised communities.
26
| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa
Edou Komlan, a patient with the limb-swelling disease lymphatic filariasis (also known as elephantiasis), pictured with his son, Sandra.
INDUSTRY TALK
Images courtesy of GSK/Marcus Perkins
ALL FIVE NTDS CAN BE PREVENTED OR TREATED WITH MEDICINES DONATED BY PHARMACEUTICAL COMPANIES TO ENDEMIC COUNTRIES
A schoolchild in Lomé, Togo, receives Albendazole tablets to control intestinal worms (also known as soil-transmitted helminths). A nationwide deworming programme is conducted by the Togo Health Service.
NTDs, which is to reduce the number of
2017 rankings out of 49 countries with Index scores
Index score - Average of coverage of the five NTDs amenable to mass treatment calculated using the geometric mean
Number of people requiring treatment for at least one disease ('000s)
Guinea-Bissau
30 th
20
1 349
treatment and who received it, was just
Burundi
31st
17
4 926
over half, or 51 percent. By 2017, it had
Mozambique
joint 32nd
12
23 455
risen to 68 percent of the 605 million
Sudan
joint 32nd
12
11 031
people in need. This success is largely
Zimbabwe
joint 32nd
12
10 661
due to the commitment and leadership
Angola
joint 35th
10
14 740
of the WHO regional director for Africa,
Egypt
joint 35th
10
5 022
Dr Rebecca Matshidiso Moeti. Within
Madagascar
37th
9
20 216
the regional office,
Mauritania
38th
3
855
Botswana
joint 39 th
2
262
South Africa
joint 39 th
2
19 335
Special Project for the Elimination
Central African Republic
joint 41th
1
3 765
of Neglected Tropical Diseases
Chad
joint 41th
1
4 853
(ESPEN), providing technical and
South Sudan
joint 41th
1
9 500
implementation support to various
Country
people in need of treatment for NTDs by 90 percent, by the end of 2030. In 2015, the proportion of the 630 million people in sub-Saharan Africa, in need of
League table snapshot of the countries ‘not on track’, according to WHO data
Dr Moeti set up a dedicated project called the Expanded
countries. However, despite these successes, the number of countries
poorest members of our society, who are
NTDs were specifically highlighted as
in Africa being validated by the WHO
disproportionately affected by neglected
a target. During the same period, the
for achieving elimination of these
tropical diseases. I urge my fellow African
proportion of people receiving treatment
diseases is still far below the rest
leaders to prioritise ending these diseases
compared to those in need, has risen. In
of the world. There is real potential
of poverty on the continent. We have shown
sub-Saharan Africa alone, there were 630
for Africa to take leadership in this
it can be done.’
million people in need of treatment for
area and succeed. Unless this is
at least one NTD in 2015. By 2017 this had
done, NTDs will continue to cause
IT CAN BE DONE
fallen to 605 million – a drop of 25 million in
pain, disability, disfigurement and
The number of people in need of
just three years, showing that treatments
stigma for millions of people on the
treatment for NTDs has fallen since
for NTDs are effective.
continent. NTDs will also continue to
2015, when Heads of State adopted the sustainable development goals in which
This is a step in meeting the sustainable development goal for
rob developing economies of billions of dollars-worth of productivity gains. •
P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |
27
COLOUR COSMETICS
Touch up your makeup with functional fillers Functional fillers play an important role in modern makeup formulations, adjusting their key sensorial, application and optical properties. Because there are so many options of functional fillers on the market, Merck has collated data from extensive research to help formulators select the best fillers for their products.
T
here was a time when ‘pigmented’ was a beauty buzzword and every eyeshadow and lip gloss promised intense colour payoff while
foundations provided heavy coverage and clinged to dry patches on the skin. Later, formulators realised pigmentation in products isn’t everything – because there’s no point in using an ultra-pigmented product if it blends badly or looks
EXPLORE MERCK’S
RONASTAR PIGMENTS • Ronastar Black Allure is the newest addition to
architecture for a completely new dimension
Merck’s Allure range. This new exciting matte
of sparkle. It features a uniform thickness and
pigment unleashes a sensational, deepest black.
extremely smooth surface. Due to its
It adds outstanding touch to the skin and is
high-tech pigment design, incoming light is
heavy and uneven. This is especially true for facial makeup. Thanks to the barefaced makeup trend, more commonly known as ‘the no-makeup makeup look’, these days consumers want balanced
DID YOU KNOW?
velvety and smooth for a silky, matte effect.
strongly reflected to create a lustrous, crystal-like
To the eye, the impact is all elegance,
sparkle effect. Ronastar Flaming Lights works well
adding a subtle light effect without sheen or gloss. Ronastar Black
Both the RonaFlair Flawless and RonaFlair LDP White functional fillers from Merck are sustainable alternatives to plastic microbeads.
beauty products with skin care benefits. For example, a foundation should have a light skin feel yet offer good enough coverage to mask any imperfections. To achieve a flawless complexion, consumers need makeup products that
in lip products, eye makeup and nail polish. • Ronastar Iconic Copper turns heads and catches
Allure is based on an ingenious
the eye with added, unexpected impact. Its colour
coating technology, is easy to
is inspired by the stars and celestial objects
incorporate into formulations and
dancing on frosty horizons. This cosmetics
is especially suited for sensitive
pigment is brought to you by Merck’s Smart
skin. In colour cosmetics, the deep
Effects programme through its ‘Revolutionise
black impact of Ronastar Black Allure
Performance’ pillar. The goal was to deliver a
is ideal for graphical elements around the
realistic and revealing metallic look that provides
eyes, such as eye-shadows, mascara, pencils
a dramatic yet natural effect. The pigment has
and eyeliners.
been optimised for hydrophobic applications to
It can also be used on the lips and nails for
deliver the most mesmerising personal care and
smoky sophistication. • Ronastar Flaming Lights is a stunning deep red effect pigment, engineered with perfect
makeup products. • Ronastar Red Allure unfolds an elegant, matte, deep red charm without shimmering or shining. The super stable, purely mineral ingredient enhances cosmetics formulations with an outstanding texture that feels great on skin. The secret lies in its chemical composition – spherical silica coated to perfection with titanium dioxide and iron oxide by an ingenious technology invented by Merck. The silica gives Ronastar Red Allure an unbeatable texture that glides onto the skin while the mineral particles lend it a subtle luminous effect for an added hint of elegance. • Ronastar Quantum Gold is reminiscent of a twilight world of snowy landscapes, evening skies and sunsets that twinkle in a graceful glow, delivering a golden touch of frost. Offering an unexpected luxury that shimmers with intensity, Ronastar Quantum Gold will provide hints of hidden warmth that release golden energy in your makeup products. The supreme benefit of Ronastar Quantum Gold is the dramatic, long-lasting metallic effect provided without the use of metal in the pigment.
28
| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa
COLOUR COSMETICS
DEPENDING ON THEIR STRUCTURE, FUNCTIONAL FILLERS CAN ABSORB OIL AND PREVENT CAKING
enhance their natural beauty. Karen Maier,
excellent stability in pressed powder
It is suitable for incredibly smooth, creamy
head of performance materials at Merck
formulations with good pay-off. Both
and comfortable to wear formulations and
South Africa, says a foundation should be
benefits are generally tricky to achieve
offers long-lasting performance. Products
formulated with functional fillers that deliver
simultaneously as each feature often
formulated with RonaFlair LF-2000 glide
immediately visible optical effects.
cancels out the other. To overcome this
effortlessly onto the skin and remain in
challenge, Merck’s R&D team took to the lab
place. RonaFlair Softshade is a colourless,
international team of experts and published
to test and screen its RonaFlair functional
skin enhancing filler made of fine mica
in the March 2017 SOFW Journal, functional
fillers in terms of their pay-off and stability.
particles. Coated with Merck’s proprietary
fillers are formulation materials that enhance
The team then selected filler combinations
technology using titanium dioxide,
certain properties of a product. These
offering good pay-off and good stability to
aluminium oxide and tin oxide, its surface
include pay-off, texture and homogeneity.
produce the unbreakable powder concept.
structure is designed to scatter light for a
They also provide additional benefits for
The four winning blends devised by the
natural effect that hides imperfections.
efficient claim substantiation and offer
team include:
RonaFlair Softshade evens out skin for a
appealing properties such as colour,
1. RonaFlair ESQ and RonaFlair Softshade
beautiful, natural look. It allows products
matte or lustrous effects or a natural soft-
2. RonaFlair MTU and RonaFlair SF-9
to glide onto the skin, leaving a dry,
focus effect. Depending on their structure,
3. RonaFlair LF-2000 and RonaFlair
powdery finish. It’s perfect for mattifying
According to an article written by Merck’s
functional fillers can absorb oil and prevent caking. Merck’s portfolio of RonaFlair
White Sapphire 4. RonaFlair ESQ and RonaFlair Flawless.
functional fillers are composed of various
face powders and foundations. It also adds volume to formulations. A bismuth oxychloride product with improved light
substrates or structures, such as different
FILLERS IN FOCUS
stability, RonaFlair MTU gives formulations
mineral-based platelets and, in some cases,
RonaFlair ESQ is a bismuth oxychloride
a smooth, velvety texture. When added to
they have an additional inorganic coating
powder. The dry, powdery texture feels
cosmetics, they comfortably glide onto the
to achieve a specific property. These highly
great on the skin and the filler offers good
skin with a matte finish. The naturally white
engineered raw materials are exceptionally
transparency, giving the skin a subtle
crystal platelets can be used in a wide
multifunctional; they also play an important
matte appearance. It also supports even
variety of applications and won’t reduce
role in backing up bold claims.
product application and improves pay-off,
the lustre or gloss of a formulation, despite
offering comfortable, long-lasting wear. This
the product’s inherent mattifying effect.
USEFUL ONLINE TOOL
functional filler can be used to enhance
Because it can be a demanding task to
binding capacity in compact powders
of flat, smooth platelets that improve the
select an appropriate filler, Merck has
without giving them a tacky texture.
texture of formulations to deliver a smooth
created the RonaFlair Filler Finder guide.
RonaFlair Flawless is ideal for creating
RonaFlair White Sapphire is made up
application and enhanced slip.
This online platform helps formulators find
smooth looking skin by maximising the
the right functional filler for their makeup
benefits of its spherical shape of the filler
Sapphire, this functional filler offers skin
product based on the effect or claim they
achieved using sophisticated coating
correction properties achieved with
want to offer. They can compare functional
technology. It is perfect for use in BB
its semi-transparent particles, which
fillers and their benefits to find the perfect
creams and makeup formulations that
subtly support light reflection in harmony
match for their formulation.
fill in wrinkles and diffuse light, visibly
with the skin. •
Another one of Merck’s newest innovations is its unbreakable powders solution. The technology platform delivers
smoothing the skin. Thanks to its excellent compressibility, RonaFlair LF-2000 helps stabilise products.
Also known by the INCI name Synthetic
Merck Performance Materials – www.merck4cosmetics.com
P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2019 |
29
PACKAGING
A tailored solution to overcome packaging challenges Unilever’s Dubai site is the largest personal care factory in the Middle East and Africa, producing hair and skincare products. Sidel recently supplied a complete end of line solution designed for greater flexibility, hygiene and ergonomics.
T
his project posed a unique
packers and shrink wrappers,
challenge. The pots of skin
installed during the same
cream are round and don’t
period as the two robotic lines
provide the counter pressure
and designed for premium
required to attain the usual perfect
pots of skin cream. Among
sealing result. The issue was amplified
the 17 packers and shrink
by the use of trays with short flaps.
wrappers running at the site,
Thanks to the close partnership
this line is equipped with one
between Unilever Dubai and the Sidel team, the challenge was easily overcome with the Cermex WB46 wrap around case packer, which covers all specifications. The installation was significant in that Unilever Dubai
of Sidel’s flagship pieces of
DID YOU KNOW?
equipment, the Cermex WB46 wrap around
case packer. Sidel has over 40 000 At the end of machines installed in line stage, the pots of skin more than 190 countries and cream are collected and approximately 170 years of proven packed into trays before experience. The company focuses the entire unit is shrinkheavily on the factory of tomorrow with advanced wrapped. The units are systems, line engineering then stacked and loaded and innovation. into cases.
is now equipped with
The Cermex WB46 wrap around case packer at Unilever’s Dubai plant
THE TECHNOLOGY ENSURES FASTER, SHORTER AND HIGHLY RESPONSIVE PRODUCTION LINES, CUTTING TIME TO MARKET
technology, combined with a modular
TECHNOLOGY TO EXCEED EXPECTATIONS
design. The technology ensures faster,
Didier Saussereau, packing product
shorter and highly responsive production
manager at Sidel, comments: ‘As you
lines, cutting time to market.
can imagine, the shape of the pots
packer has achieved a dominant market
state of the art end of line
The Cermex WB46 wrap around case
and the short flaps on the trays become
position, which demonstrates Sidel’s
entire set of Sidel competences were
even more challenging when the
long standing expertise in the wrap
needed, from robotic product collation
process reaches speeds of up to
around blank mechanisation process.
to shrink wrapping and palletising
25 trays per minute. This is why the
The company is able to cover all market
sealing station was equipped with
segments and all primary packaging
specific adaptations
types, regardless of the technology and
To meet the customer’s needs, the
The Dubai plant also has a third, more traditional packaging line featuring
and pressing plates to
production speed. ‘With accounts such
guarantee a perfectly
as Unilever, we are firmly setting sight on
square sealing of the trays,
Industry 4.0. In this respect, the Cermex
while protecting the pots
WB46 is a benchmark. It comes with
across the entire process.’
a user friendly, multi touch PC panel,
The Cermex WB46 packer
based on a tablet approach navigation.
has retained its ultra smooth
It features RFID login, user and data
operation, guaranteeing
management, alarm and statistic reports,
high quality packaging,
plus remote connectivity and standard
while ensuring Unilever’s end
operating procedures with its One Point
of line specifications are
Lesson database,’ comments Jean-
met. This is a good example
Philippe Beduneau, Sidel’s strategic key
of Sidel’s capability to tailor
account director for Unilever. •
its advanced solutions The round shaped pots, which were previously challenging to pack
30
| QUARTER 1 2019 | P C Africa
according to the customer’s needs.
Sidel – www.sidel.com/en
NUTRACEUTICALS CALCIUM SALTS AND SUPPLEMENTS DI-COMPREZ®
Sudeep Pharma is recognized as one of the largest manufacturer of speciality excipients in the world! These excipients include filler, lubricants and calcium supplements. We are pleased to introduce the speciality calcium salts used as fillers, as well as calcium supplements. DI-COMPREZ®: Calcium Hydrogen Phosphate – Dihydrate A-COMPREZ®
• • • •
Grades available: BP/EP/USP/FCC/E341 Unmilled: Ideal for direct compression Powder: Ideal for wet granulation and soft gel capsules US DMF: 029976
A-COMPREZ®: Calcium Hydrogen Phosphate - Anhydrous • • • •
Grades available: BP/EP/USP/FCC/E341 Unmilled: Ideal for direct Compression Powder: Ideal for wet granulation and soft gel capsules US DMF: 028751
PressCAL® PressCAL®: Calcium Carbonate Granular PressCAL® grades are the highest quality, directly compressible, and pharmaceutical industry. • • • •
Brenntag South Africa (Pty) Ltd 11 Mansell Road Killarney Gardens Cape Town, 7441 Cape Town Johannesburg/KwaZulu-Natal info@brenntag.co.za
Grades available: BP/EP/USP/FCC/E341 Powder grades: Ground and precipitated calcium carbonate CEP and WC » » » »
MD: Maltodextrin AC: Acacia gum CS: Corn starch MA: Maltodextrin and Acacia gum
Brenntag SA represents and distributes the Sudeep Pharma products in South Africa. +27 (0)21 020 18 00 +27 (0)10 020 91 00
www.brenntag.com/south-africa
NUTRACEUTICAL |
PHARMACEUTICAL | FOOD AND NUTRITION
API’S | EXCIPIENTS | ESSENTIAL OILS AND EXTRACTS | HERBAL POWDERS AND EXTRACTS MINERAL SALTS | SPECIALITY NATURAL INGREDIENTS | SURFACTANTS (INCLUDING NATURAL)
PERSONAL CARE
PHARMACEUTICALS
Active ingredients
Active Pharma ingredients
Rheology modifiers
Starches & Starch derivatives
Natural extracts
Lactose
Natural oils
Sodium phosphates
Conditioners
Pharma grade solvents
Emulsifiers
Pharma grade polyols
Natural preservatives
Natural oils & extracts
Surfactants
Carbonates
Concentrate surfactant blends Fragrances Pigments And many more...
Cellulose Calcium carbonate Flavours And many more...