AFRICA
Quarter 2 2017 | Volume 2 | Number 2
PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
www.pharmacos.co.za
gold standard THE
in Ethnic hair
and skin care
Natural beauty ingredients for African hair and skin How to innovate in personal care Your anti-counterfeiting questions answered
“ Hair Aficionados Curly & coily. Wild & manageable. Shiny & sleek. Hair has its own individual personality. Understanding multi-ethnic hair, developing tailored scent and care concepts, that’s how we’re offering just the right formula for every individuals crown and glory. We interweave our knowledge about hairy trends and type-specific hair care with our deep hair expertise and are thus facilitating permanently gorgeous and healthy hair. www.symrise.com
”
AFRICA
NEWS
Quarter 2 2017 | Volume 2 | Number 2
www.pharmacos.co.za PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
CONTENTS NEWS
6 Expanded African operations for Afrox 7 Biogaran acquires Nigerian
PERSONAL CARE 25 26
New data for Symrise’s skin soothing agent Wacker innovates with novel silicones
pharma company
8 Ingersoll Rand beefs up its rental equipment fleet
QUALITY CONTROL 27
EVENTS
10 Source new products at Propak West Africa 2017
Five ways to guarantee clean room hygiene
PACKAGING
28 Omron to showcase vision inspection systems at KITE
29
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS: APIS 14
Bosch reveals lab scale pilot fermenter
ETHNIC CARE
16 Botanica prioritises safe skin lightening 18 Natural ingredients for hair care 20 Hair salon and testing equipment installed at Croda SA
21 Silicone emulsion addresses uneven
THE COMBINATION OF INGREDIENTS IN SYMMOLLIENT W/S PROVIDED THE BEST ITCHINHIBITION PERFORMANCE
Top tips to stop counterfeiting in its tracks
25
Forging ahead in Africa
skin tone
22 Sustainable alternative to hydrolysed keratin therapy
12
14
New pilot fermenter
for manufacturing APIs P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |
3
FROM THE EDITOR
I
The time is right for
safer, quality solutions n Africa the need for safer alternatives
For pharmaceutical manufacturing, P C
to traditional skin lightening products is
Africa looks at the new pilot fermenter from
reaching a tipping point. The Ivory Coast
Bosch’s subsidiary, Pharmatech (page 14)
banned the use of skin whitening creams in
and how cleaning equipment from Nilfisk
2014 and Ghana forbid the importation of
guarantees maximum hygiene in clean
products containing Hydroquinone in 2016.
room environments (page 27).
Responsible brand owners in Nigeria are
Another burning issue in Africa is the
also driving awareness on the importance
proliferation of counterfeit medicines. This
of Hydroquinone-free formulations in the
billion-dollar industry is thriving, resulting
skin care segment.
in over 100 000 deaths annually in Africa
Despite these developments, African
alone. In the packaging feature on page
PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
THE TEAM EDITORIAL
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributor: Catherine Centro, Elzbieta Kasprzyk, Saso Efremovski ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo
women continue to lighten their skin. Yet
28, assistant editor, Aarifah Nosarka presents
these days, consumers are seeking less
expert advice on how to tackle the problem
Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za
invasive alternatives.
in an interesting discussion on risk profiling
Production Controller: Rae Morrison
and new developments in security features.
Art Director: David Kyslinger
Two of these products are featured in the Ethnic Care section in this edition of P C
Please keep in touch. We welcome your
JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146
Africa. These are BotanicaLite from Botanica
editorial submissions and feedback
Natural Products and Velvesil E-Gel PMF
on the magazine. You can
emulsion from Savannah Fine Chemicals.
send an e-mail to abby.
Essential hair care ingredients for natural,
vorster@newmediapub.
healthy hair are also discussed in this
co.za or aarifah.nosarka@
Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.
feature. Turn to page 16 now to find out
newmediapub.co.za.
MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb
more about these unique offerings. New data for SymMollient W/S from
Enjoy the read.
Symrise is highlighted in the personal care
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Bridget McCarney
section on page 25. This and novel silicones
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
from Wacker are discussed in depth.
John Psillos
SymMollient W/S can act as a skin and scalp soothing agent, while the silicone fluid
NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl
emulsion, Belsil DM 5700 E, is suitable for use
HEAD OFFICE
in sulphate-free shampoos.
New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
ADVERTISERS’ INDEX Afrocet Montgomery.......................................11........................www.propakwestafrica.com Bosch Packaging.............................................15........................www.boschpackaging,com Botanica Natural Products..............................17........................www.timola.co.za Chemsystems...................................................23.......................www.chemsystems.co.za CJP Chemicals.................................................24.......................www.cjpchemicals.co.za H&R Group........................................................5..........................www.hur.com IMCD..................................................................OFC....................www.imcdgroup.co.za Natchem...........................................................19........................www.natchem.co.za Nautica Organic Trading................................16........................www.nauticaorganics.com Omron...............................................................28.......................www.industrial.omron.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals..............................21........................www.sfc-info@savannah.co.za Symrise..............................................................IFC......................www.symrise.co.za Trace Pack........................................................OBC....................www.tracepack.co.za Verder Pumps...................................................IBC......................www.verder.co.za
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media Publishing four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical
Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Tandym.
Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
4
| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa
At H&R we pride ourselves on being a truly sustainable company that focuses on waste reduction by transforming every residue produced within traditional oil refinery into new high quality products, thereby bringing appealing solutions to the markets we serve. We work closely with customers to offer customized solutions suitable for their needs. H&R is a proud major global supplier of top quality petroleum jelly, an essential ingredient used in the African personal care, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. H&R offers both white and yellow product variations of petroleum jelly to these industries. H&R offers a variety of bases for the production of cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsion and ointments. H&R also offers a wide range of paraffinic and naphthenic based technical and medicinal white oils.
113 Trindad Road, Island View, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +27 (0)31 466 8700, Fax: +27 (0)31 466 8716 E-mail: SASales@hur.com
www.hur.com
NEWS Restasis Multidose product Image courtesy of Allergan
SQUEEZE DISPENSER ENABLES PRESERVATIVEFREE EYE CARE
AFROX EXPANDS ITS AFRICAN OPERATIONS POSITIONING ITSELF TO service the country’s fledgling gas resources sector, Afrox is expanding existing operations in Mozambique to support current customer demand.
APTAR PHARMA’S PATENTED preservative-
Driving Afrox’s strategy is a new 8 600m2 hub, which
free ophthalmic squeeze dispenser,
will be the backbone of operations with a sales centre, storage facilities for cylinders and hard goods, filling facilities for oxygen, and ample secure parking. The new headquarters was opened on 4 May in the Machava Industrial Area in Matola, Maputo Province, and provides full sales service, stock, equipment and technical support for Afrox’s branches in Beira and Tete. ‘As the leading gases and welding company in Africa, the new hub in Maputo Province reflects our commitment to fostering longterm relationships with our customers in Mozambique,’ says Prince Tsuro, MD for Afrox Mozambique. The new Afrox hub also includes plans for a demo centre, which will be used to showcase product usage or applications, and while Tsuro says Afrox’s latest investment in the headquarters hub in Matola is a clear demonstration the business is still going strong
bulk and compressed gases and hard goods are imported from South Africa, the site includes sufficient space for future expansion.
‘Our headquarters hub will benefit a wide spectrum
containing cyclosporine ophthalmic emulsion, is now available in the US prescription market. The Restasis Multidose product contains 0.05 percent of cyclosporine ophthalmic emulsion by eye care specialist, Allergan. The launch makes Aptar Pharma’s dispenser the first and only FDA-approved multidose delivery system to handle prescription eye treatment formulations without any preservatives. The company is working closely with Allergan to improve patient safety, achieve dosing accuracy and maintain product integrity. An increasing number of patients experience eye irritation or an allergic reaction because of certain preservatives in formulations. These consumers appreciate that preservatives can be removed from eye care medications with this new squeeze dispenser. The system is the result of more than 10 years of development and experience in the delivery of preservative-free ophthalmic solutions. Patients and consumers in different countries have benefitted from this technology since 2012. There are currently more than 100 commercial references available on the market. Salim Haffar, president of Aptar Pharma says the technology incorporates proven and unrivalled microbiological safety. This, combined with its precise and reproducible drop ejection, allows pharmaceutical customers worldwide to enter into discussions with regulatory agencies such as the FDA.
PAPER SUPPLIER LIGHTS UP EDUCATION
of sectors in Mozambique, including manufacturing,’
ARJOWIGGINS GRAPHIC, A manufacturer of environmentally friendly paper solutions, is collaborating with
he adds.
Childfund Alliance to support the education of children in Mali.
It provides employment for 20 people and expects to enhance customer experience right across the board, from the sales centre through to collection of hard goods and loading of cylinders. The upgraded hub will offer all the same comprehensive services available from other Afrox
For this year’s annual Cyclus campaign, the company is helping to provide solar lamps to children living in the villages where there is no electricity. The global ‘Light to Learn’ campaign hopes to raise awareness of Cyclus 100 percent recycled papers and first-rate environmental and ethical credentials. It calls on designers, printers, print managers and end users to watch a video highlighting this challenging issue which is featured online at www.mali.cycluspaper.com. For every 25 video views, Arjowiggins Graphic will fund a solar lamp for one child in the village. The intention
branches in southern Africa, including a full range
is to provide 200 solar lamps by the end of the campaign. It started at the beginning of May, and ends on
of large-volume on-site installations and bulk gases,
30 June.
cylinder gases, scientific gases, refrigerants, packaged
Launching globally in 35 countries, including Spain, Malaysia, China and the UK, this latest initiative is
chemicals and helium, CO2, medical gases and medical
part of the company’s ongoing
products, hospitality gases, gas equipment, welding
commitment to fund the
products and ancillary safety products.
education of children in less
Sub-Saharan Africa is experiencing a resurgence in oil and gas and mining investment, and consequently
privileged parts of the world. The campaign has been rolled
Afrox is growing its existing footprint in support of
out in South Africa by Papersmith
these sectors.
& Son, a stockist of Cyclus.
6
| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa
The solar lamps will provide light for children to enable learning when it’s dark
NEWS The Swipha pharmaceutical manufacturing facility in Nigeria
TECHNOLOGY TO ACHIEVE GREATER DIFFERENTIATION DUPONT PERFORMANCE MATERIALS (DuPont)
designers can create packages straight out of their
recently introduced innovative examples using its
imaginations,’ Li adds.
Surlyn ionomer resins to achieve a one-step frosted
The unique properties of Surlyn enable it to copy
effect for cosmetics caps, bottles and jars. This effect
the fine, intricate details of a mould to achieve a high
is accomplished straight from the mould. It enables
gloss design with an entirely, or partially, frosted
fine details, pleasant tactile quality and consistency
appearance. By applying this frosted effect in the
without the need for a secondary process.
mould, Surlyn offers increased production efficiency
‘Brand owners are constantly looking for new ways to differentiate their offerings,
and lower cost for manufacturers looking to achieve this effect for their packs.
and a frosted effect is a unique
It offers the transparency of glass without
decoration that creates a sense
the fragility, and can be frosted, faceted
of premiumisation in both
or finished to obtain special effects.
the look and feel,’ says
It can also be coloured to create
Jennifer Li, marketing
elegant translucency.
leader: industrial and
Surlyn allows the use of
consumer, at DuPont.
many different decorative
She says the company
techniques for cosmetics.
collaborates with industry
These include metallisation, hot
partners to expand the possibilities of packaging design. ‘This is done so that
stamping and lacquering, as well The bubble effect
as marbling, bubbling, glittering and suspended animations.
BIOGARAN TAKES OVER SWIPHA’S ACTIVITIES IN NIGERIA FRENCH PHARMACEUTICAL COMPANY, Biogaran recently announced the takeover of all activities of Swipha, a Nigerian company that manufactures and distributes quality pharmaceutical products. This is an important step in the internationalisation of Biogaran, which specialises in generic and biosimilar medicines. The move is set to see the French company develop new markets to meet its commitment to provide all patients with quality medication. Swipha’s portfolio is mainly focused on three families of products: anti-anxiety and tranquillisers; antimalarial drugs; and antibiotics, which treat Nigeria’s most widespread infections and health
NEXT LEVEL SENSORY TOOL IS LAUNCHED BUILDING ON THE success of its initial Sensory Kaleidoscope, Evonik’s personal care business line is now bundling its global expertise in formulation design, emulsifiers and sensory into Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.0. This is an evolution of the company’s online interactive tool, which helps formulators obtain the desired skin feel for a product. Its unique functionality displays a vast range of cosmetics formulations in the context of their sensory characteristics. The impact of emulsifiers and formulation design on the skin feel is also showcased. The online tool was created using statistical analysis of data obtained from a sensory panel. Ingredients that offer broad formulation flexibility are becoming more important for formulators looking to develop consumer desirable products. Tego Care PBS 6, a versatile PEG-free O/W emulsifier fully based on renewable sources, provides this flexibility when formulating a range of skin care products. It is differentiated by a wide variety of sensory profiles. Sensory Kaleidoscope 2.0 can also help formulators find ingredients that can impart innovative textures to add a fun element to consumers’ daily beauty routines. Examples include Evonik’s caring oil release cream, which has a surprising cream texture, and the magic cream to milk, which releases milk-like droplets during application.
issues. It was the first Nigerian pharmaceutical company to obtain ISO 9001 certification in 2007. Approved by the World Health Organization (WHO) in 2014, Swipha employs 300 people and generated record sales of NGN 4 billion (approximately €20 million) in 2012. Beyond its production unit, the company has a wide distribution network covering most parts of Nigeria. This is Africa’s most dynamic country, with more than 184 million inhabitants in 2016, according to the IMF. Health issues are particularly important in Africa. Beyond significant needs for good quality, affordable and efficient medicines, the problem of counterfeits is a major concern. Annually, WHO estimates 100 000 deaths in Africa are due to fake medicines. In this context, supplying Nigeria’s population with reliable locally produced medicines is a strong commitment of Biogaran, a subsidiary of Servier. ‘Biogaran’s international expansion strategy is to create synergies by bringing expertise and investment capacity in production tools to existing structures,’ comments Pascal Brière, president of Biogaran. ‘Swipha’s know-how, network and reputation immediately convinced us that it was the right partner for our company. Likewise, Nigeria quickly came out as the best entry point on the African continent with its strong population and solid economic fundamentals, including a very dynamic market economy.’
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |
7
NEWS
INGERSOLL RAND HELPS CUSTOMERS MAINTAIN UPTIME THE COMPRESSION TECHNOLOGIES and services company
JACO SA SELLS TO SANNER
has added 50 percent more compressed air rental
SANNER, A MANUFACTURER of high-
equipment to its fleet in Africa, the US, Europe, the Middle
quality primary plastic packaging
East and India. Ingersoll Rand rental equipment delivers
and medical devices, has acquired
reliable, temporary compressed air solutions for mid- to
Plastina Holding, parent company of
high-capacity manufacturing operations to keep critical
Jaco SA, based in Kirchheim, Germany.
processes up and running during emergencies or planned
This merger will see Sanner
projects. The rental fleet includes oil-free class 0 and oil-
advance to the global market leader for
flooded compressors ranging from 20 horsepower/15kW
effervescent packaging.
to 400 horsepower/300kW, as well as refrigerated and desiccant dryers.
Ralf Tiemann, MD of Sanner, Kunshan, China; Jürgen Sanner, Sanner shareholder; Sibylle Rippmann, former owner of Jaco SA; Tharcisse Decker, MD of Jaco SA; and Dirk Mähr
The company is known as a global market leader in desiccant packaging
Decker, MD of Jaco SA. ‘Apart from the
for the pharmaceutical and health
strong French and European market, we
requiring any compressed air solutions, whether permanent
care industries. Jaco SA is one of the
are now also able to enter new markets
or temporary compressors or dryers,’ says Eric Seidel,
leading manufacturers of printed and
such as the Middle East and Africa
vice president of product management for compression
unprinted plastic tubes for effervescent
more effectively,’ Mähr adds.
technologies and services at Ingersoll Rand. ‘Our expansive
tablets. ‘Our product portfolios are
rental fleet gives customers peace of mind when they face a
complementary,’ says Dirk Mähr, MD
technology can be used for new
system failure or require incremental compressed air systems
of Sanner. ‘Because of the merger, we
products, while Sanner’s competencies
due to peak demand.’
have significantly strengthened our
in R&D are of great advantage for joint,
position to become the global market
innovative projects.
‘Ingersoll Rand is a true one-stop shop for customers
Maintenance service is included with all rentals, as well as Ingersoll Rand genuine parts including filters, lubricants, fluids, spare parts and consumables. Expertly trained
leader in effervescent packaging.’ In 2016, Sanner generated sales of
Jaco SA’s experience in printing
The acquisition will have no effect on the employees or the production
technicians manage services, repairs and maintenance of
€63.7 million, while Jaco SA achieved
of both companies. Customers will be
the compressed air rental assets.
around €13 million.
served by the sites in Bensheim and
The company’s compressed air rental services are
‘Together, we offer customers one
Kirchheim. The company name Jaco
ideal for unexpected equipment failure, planned outages
of the most comprehensive ranges of
SA will remain unchanged for the time
and maintenance, seasonal peak demand, testing, and
tubes and closures, combined with
being. The former owners of Jaco SA
tight capital budgets. Renting equipment can minimise
numerous decoration possibilities.
have withdrawn from business, and
demands on cash flow and provides a viable solution for
This allows us to operate as a system
both parties agreed on keeping the
customers faced with emergencies and cannot afford an
supplier in the future,’ says Tharcisse
purchase price confidential.
unplanned investment. Ingersoll Rand’s systems engineers and technicians are available to develop a contingency plan with the customer prior to a system failure. This helps reduce downtime and any financial loss. ‘Downtime during equipment failure can be devastating to a business, and the contingency planning can help facilities prepare for the unexpected,’ Seidel adds. ‘Working with an Ingersoll Rand expert
INTEGRATED IT SOLUTIONS IMPROVE EFFICIENCY WERUM IT SOLUTIONS (Werum) is addressing current pharmaceutical industry challenges with its integrated IT solutions. The company’s offerings are designed to advance packaging processes in pharmaceutical factories. Jan-Henrik Dieckert, senior head of sales EMEA at Werum IT Solutions says these are
to create a contingency
Werum’s vendor-independent track and trace solution, its key performance indicator
plan saves time and
(KPI) monitoring and new Plug & Produce solution. The latter reportedly reduces the
reduces downtime so
workload of equipment integration by up to 75 percent.
rental equipment can be deployed quickly.’ Ingersoll Rand rental solutions are available worldwide.
‘These are some examples of how we support our customers to increase the efficiency and productivity in their pharmaceutical factories while meeting regulatory requirements,’ says Dieckert. The company’s vendor-independent PAS-X track and trace solution complies with the anti-counterfeiting requirements of any country around the globe. It provides serialisation and aggregation functionalities for packaging processes. It integrates
Oil-free drier rental equipment from Ingersoll Rand
8
| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa
the ERP and the Global Repository with a shop floor’s packaging equipment and line controllers. It is a smart option to get started with Werum’s manufacturing IT solutions and can easily be extended to a full-scope PAS-X MES.
DIARY 2017
WHAT'S ON IN
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P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |
9
EVENTS
Propak presents
windows of opportunity Propak West Africa 2017 is shaping up to be bigger and better than ever before. This is according to Jamie Pearson, marketing and operations manager at Afrocet Montgomery, the show’s organiser. 1
2
3
T
he exhibition takes place
three-day exhibition duration, to
from 19 to 21 September
the varying sectors. These include:
at the Landmark Centre in
• F ood Pro – looking into the
Lagos, Nigeria. Pearson says
impact of branding on turnover •P ro-Label – an overview of
one hall is almost fully booked with only a couple of stands remaining.
regulation in the drinks sector
There will be a newly constructed
•P ro-Plas – reducing the
second hall, which is also said to be
environment impact of
filling up with stands.
plastic packaging Scenes from the successful Propak West Africa 2016
The event will include an innovation zone for local start-up companies that need a helping hand in raising awareness in the
•P rint&Digital Expo – what’s new in potential clients in three days than in
the global technology race and
multiple trips to the region.
how it affects West Africa.
Many exhibitors share Du Toit’s
market. These first-time exhibitors
opinion, as 63 percent of the floor
ALL GEARED UP
will have smaller booths to
was booked for 2017 before the 2016
The ease of doing business in the
accommodate their budgets. This
event shut its doors in September.
region, especially in Nigeria, is high
additional feature was decided on after last year’s triumphant show. The main hall at Propak West Africa 2016 was completely sold out to exhibitors. ‘Many attendees commented on the high quality of visitors and the international eminence of the exhibition,’ comments Pearson.
DID YOU KNOW?
Exhibition space at Propak West Africa 2016 increased by 29 percent compared to the previous year.
There were 2 867 visitors at last year’s event.
AMPLE PROSPECTS Pieter Du Toit, key account manager
The companies exhibiting
on the agenda. The country’s acting
at Propak West Africa operate
president, Yemi Osinbajo has already
within the packaging, plastics, manufacturing and processing sectors. Visitors have the opportunity
conclusion within 48 hours. ‘This will come as a huge relief to the many frequent travellers
products, sourcing new
who have in the past had to wait
solutions, and networking with
up to one week just for information
industry professionals. They can also attend the conference to be held on the exhibition floor to
on its stage in the process,’ Pearson explains. Afrocet Montgomery is expecting
keep up to date with trends and
a record breaking fifth year for
market developments.
Propak West Africa. •
The conference programme will
Propak is key to generating business
focus on different verticals that make
in West Africa. This is because
up the Propak brand. This will be
companies can meet a number of
done by devoting half days, over the
| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa
order for all visas to be processed to
of viewing hundreds of
at Filmatic Systems South Africa says
10
made motions with an executive
Afrocet Montgomery – www.montex.co.uk
COMPANY FOCUS
Forging ahead in Africa IMCD is a global leader in the sales, marketing and distribution of speciality chemicals and food ingredients. Through its Ethnic skin and hair care Centre of Excellence located in South Africa, the company can tailor products accordingly. By Abby Vorster
I
ndustry leading technical and
Algeria is headquartered in Algiers
strong local position and key
commercial teams, a flexible
and IMCD Tunisia in Tunis. ‘These
platform for further expansion in
subsidiaries partner with
Africa. Based in Nairobi, IMCD
major chemical producers
Kenya distributes ingredients to
and serve a large amount of
the cosmetics, detergents, food
•€ 1 715 million revenue in 2016
active customers, delivering
and pharmaceutical industries,
an exceptional track record
serving both local and regional
•3 4 000 customers
of growth,’ says Natalie
markets including Uganda and
•1 800 professionals
MacGregor, business unit
Tanzania. The company has joined
•4 0+ countries
manager: pharmaceuticals
IMCD’s existing operations in the
•3 0 laboratories
and personal care at IMCD
African region and benefits from a
South Africa. ‘With warehouses
robust international network and
launched in 2006. Two years
in both Algiers and Tunis, IMCD
the cross-fertilisation of technical
later, IMCD set its African
ensures a premium service
expertise and market knowledge to
and focused approach, a strong distribution
network and in-depth market knowledge are some of the characteristics of IMCD, which set the company apart from its competition. In South Africa, the company has grown extensively since it was
Fast facts:
expansion plan in motion, establishing an office in Tunisia in 2008, Algeria in
with fast and reliable delivery.’ Following the acquisition of Chemical and Solvents
realise its full business potential. The company also has a sales office and a large warehouse
2011 and Kenya
in 2016, IMCD Kenya
facility in Mohammedia, Morocco
in 2016. IMCD
has established a
to ensure a premium service
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| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa
COMPANY FOCUS
with fast and reliable delivery. Speciality chemicals’ distribution services and local expertise for IMCD MAROC are provided by IMCD Iberia, covering a range of market sectors including pharmaceuticals, coatings, plastics and textiles.
ETHNIC HAIR CARE EXPERTISE The global company’s strong technical competence is
with customers and suppliers alike,
equipment, supplier collaboration
creating growth opportunities on
and consumer reports allow us
the African continent.
to keep ahead in the game, and ensure we are driving innovation
ADDED VALUE, FLEXIBILITY AND INNOVATION IMCD is not just a raw materials’ supplier. Worldwide, the company is highly focused on providing its customers with added value by constantly investing in its staff members. ‘This includes training and mentorship programmes, which take
with our customers.’ The company will strive to continue its African expansion
IMCD KENYA HAS ESTABLISHED A STRONG LOCAL POSITION AND KEY PLATFORM FOR FURTHER EXPANSION IN AFRICA
place at supplier level,’
company is actively represented at all major international
within the greater personal care
pharmaceutical and cosmetics
segment. There are nine personal
industry trade shows.’ Its transparent working
worldwide, including South Africa.
partnerships are fully aligned
A 10 th quality centre located in
with the strategies and targeted
The Netherlands complements
objectives of its principal partners,
the global company’s Centre of
ultimately focussing on their
Excellence offering.
brand promotion. ‘We are flexible and follow a focused approach
Excellence specialises in Ethnic
through strategic hubs to deliver
hair and skin care product
total business simplification
development to support the
for both our principals and
region. It was launched in 2014
customers,’ she adds. Thanks to IMCD’s business
formulations for the Ethnic market.
opportunity management system,
It is headed by Ana da Costa,
the global company enjoys a
IMCD South Africa’s customer
strong technical and commercial
solutions manager, who is an
business development focus to
expert on Ethnic hair care and
ensure growth. This is coupled with
provides technical support to
its market-focused approach and
IMCD’s team in Brazil driving
dedicated technical and sales
innovation in this region and
personnel, which are of the highest
further afield in countries like Italy
calibre. ‘IMCD has excellent market
and France.
coverage and multi-level customer penetration supported by an
care Centre of Excellence is
innovative product portfolio of high-
fully equipped with world-class
tech ingredients from established,
laboratory equipment, such
long-term partnerships with industry
as a centrifuge, a high-tech
leading principals.’
microscope to study the properties
acquisition targets, in regions where product gaps and opportunities have been identified and in hubs presenting an agile supply chain model and storage
time’ approach. •
to certain application areas
The Ethnic skin and hair
and through possible
have in-depth knowledge of current
Centres of Excellence specific
and is equipped to develop new
be done organically
strength to support IMCD’s ‘just in
industry trends and the global
In South Africa, the Centre of
approach. This will
MacGregor explains. ‘Our teams
supported by fully equipped
care Centres of Excellence located
using a highly strategic
The company also offers
of Ethnic hair, and an incubator for
world-class technical support to
accelerated stability testing.
its customers through detailed
Like the other Centres of
engagement with its principals.
Excellence located worldwide, the
She adds: ‘Innovation and new
Ethnic hair and skin care Centre
product development are critical to
of Excellence strives to build,
IMCD’s growth strategy. Constant
maintain and expand relationships
investment in personnel, laboratory
IMCD – www.imcdgroup.com
HAIR CARE IS BIG BUSINESS THE ECONOMICS OF the African hair care industry is shifting towards afro-textured, natural hair. The natural hair care movement is part of a rising global wellness consciousness about the ingredients used in hair and skin care products. ‘Various factors have contributed to the growth of the natural hair movement, such as a need to embrace one’s cultural identity, to nurture natural beauty and the global chemical-free trend,’ MacGregor explains. ‘As a result, there is a definite decline in the demand for relaxers and an increase in demand for cleansing conditioners, products that aid manageability, scalp-care products, sulphate-free shampoos and products that nourish treated hair.’ As the African hair care market becomes increasingly sophisticated, MacGregor believes the industry is likely to see more ingredients tested on African hair to develop market-relevant efficacy data. This is crucial to ensure products meet the specific needs of various consumer groups on the continent.
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |
13
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//APIs
New pilot fermenter for manufacturing APIs
Bosch has launched a new pilot fermenter for laboratory and pilot scale cultivation of active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs). The pilot fermenter was presented at Interpack 2017 in Duesseldorf. The modular, fully automatic pilot fermenter from Bosch is suitable for R&D applications, clinical studies in the lab and industrial production of small batches
fed-batch processes, as well as perfusion and continuous processing. Whereas the cell culture is essentially left to itself in batch processes, fed-batch processes
cultivation processes and cell cultures.
continue to supply nutrient solutions during
Interchangeable mixing and dosing
fermentation, resulting in higher cell density
technologies ensure an optimal
and product yield. In turn, perfusion is
fermentation process can be achieved,
suited for the highest possible cell density –
matching customers’ needs,’ explains
the fermenter is continuously supplied with
Medina. Depending on the mixer, the
fresh media and equal amounts of waste
fermenter can process batch sizes from
media are extracted from the cultivation
eight or 13ℓ, up to 50ℓ. In addition, reactor
process by the system’s two hollow
sizes for 100 and 200ℓ are available for
fibre modules.
pilot and small industrial batches. Bosch
M
The system is built as a package unit; the
has complemented its existing portfolio
integrated wall allows clear separation of
anufacturing complex
of fermentation devices, which previously
the technical section from the operational
compounds using
offered production volumes ranging from
area. The fermenter is designed for easy
biotechnological methods
500 to 5 000ℓ.
cleaning and sterilisation (CIP/SIP). Its
continues to grow in
integrated periphery includes a steam
industry. ‘Whether the desired substance
INTERCHANGEABLE MIXING TECHNOLOGIES
is an insulin preparation or a medication
Depending on requirements, the system
for targeted cancer therapy – our
can be equipped with one of several
bioprocessing systems deliver optimum
interchangeable mixing elements,
product quality and excellent process
designed for different cell types and
results,’ says Dr John Medina, sales director
process controls. The mixer regulates
at Bosch subsidiary, Pharmatec. ‘With the
inflow of liquids or gases needed for
new pilot fermenter, Bosch has rolled out
cell cultivation. Sensitive cells require
a modular, fully automatic system suitable
gentler technologies like the air lift
for R&D applications, clinical studies
module, while more robust cells can be
in the lab and industrial production of
stirred mechanically.
importance in the pharmaceutical
small batches.’
generator, exhaust air cooler, and a heating/cooling device for the bioreactor.
THE GOAL WHEN DESIGNING FERMENTATION SYSTEMS IS TO CREATE OPTIMAL GROWING CONDITIONS FOR MICROORGANISMS
The feeding of process media takes place fully automatically. As an alternative
Depending on the task-specific
MODULAR SYSTEM FOR DIVERSE CELL CULTURES
to the installed peristaltic pumps and
requirements, up to four interchangeable
two additional pumps in the periphery,
process sensors are available. This concept
The goal when designing fermentation
Bosch highlighted a separate module
enables quick installation at available
systems is to create optimal growing
at Interpack, which offers high-precision
spaces with limited media availability
conditions for microorganisms such as
dosing for liquid media with four syringe
and quick changeover. For subsequent
cells and bacteria. These systems must
pumps. The system periphery can be
downstream processes and the formulation
meet regulated cGMP standards for
expanded to include additional peristaltic
of the final injectable liquid, Bosch offers
the pharmaceutical industry. Bosch’s
pumps for the dosing of extra process fluids.
comprehensive solutions that can be
highly versatile pilot fermenter satisfies
seamlessly combined with other products
equipment is suitable for a diverse range
CONTINUOUS PROCESS CONTROLS
of applications.
The pilot fermenter is equipped with
specific requirements to produce APIs; the
‘Thanks to its modular design, the bioreactor is well suited to various
14
| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa
a gentle rotary pump and a second reactor vessel, so it supports batch and
from the company for filling and packaging liquid pharmaceuticals. •
Bosch – www.boschpackaging.com
An especially wide spectrum of solutions. For an especially wide smile. www.boschpackaging.com
As a full-service provider of process and packaging technology, intelligent software, and comprehensive services for the pharmaceutical and food industries, we are always at your side: along the entire value-added chain and across the entire life cycle of your systems. For solutions that excite in every respect: simple, economical, reliable. Processing. Packaging. Excitement.
ETHNIC CARE
A cross section of a fleshy Bulbine frutescens leaf revealing the juice used to produce BotanicaTimola Image credit: Eva Ackermann
Unique actives from Africa
Botanica Natural Products’ (Botanica) mission is to improve skin health by promoting the use of indigenous plants and traditional knowledge from Africa. The company has fast developed a name for itself as a producer and distributor of safe and effective natural botanical ingredients developed and produced in Africa.
T
he beauty industry in sub-Saharan
uneven complexion. As a result, the skin care industry is
Africa is developing steadily. With
still dominated by Hydroquinone containing skin-lightening
a growing middle class, the South
products. Comparatively, the hair care industry in Africa
African market represents about
is focused on hair relaxers, which have the negative side
US$5 billion of the continent’s total; Nigeria
effect of irritating the scalp. However, in recent years,
and Kenya follow closely behind. The
African consumers have increasingly preferred products,
Ivory Coast, Ghana and Senegal clearly
which include ‘natural’, ‘traditional’ and ‘herbal’ label
show that a stable political system and
claims. In Nigeria, African Black Soap, a traditional
growing economy bode well for the cosmetics industry.
product known as Dudu Osun, is enjoying a resurgence in popularity thanks to its ability to clear skin spots
The African skin care market has traditionally focused on dealing with dark spots and
and blemishes.
SKIN SOOTHING ACTIVE In South Africa, Botanica – a speciality producer and distributor of cosmetics ingredients, is gaining attention as an established, respected supplier of active ingredients from Africa for Africa. The company was established in 2009 as a joint venture between French, German and South African partners. Botanica is the first commercial producer of Bulbine Frutescens leaf juice in the world.
THE BOTANICALITENIACINAMIDE COMBINATION SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCED INDUCED PIGMENTATION AFTER ONLY 14 DAYS The company’s flagship product, BotanicaTimola is a cold-pressed extract. It has scientifically proven soothing, healing and moisturising attributes when added to skin care formulations at three percent. This explains why the product has traditionally been used as an effective remedy for various skin, scalp and hair conditions. The company supplies its Bulbine frutescens leaf juice in two grades. BotanicaTimola is the refined, processed grade, which is marketed as an active ingredient for cosmetics, while BotanicaSap is the cost-effective alternative aimed at the soap segment. In Africa, BotanicaTimola is used as an effective post skin-lightening soothing active or posthair relaxing treatment. The popularity of the product is augmented by its proven stability in skin lighteners, which typically have a low pH, and in hair relaxers with their high pH.
16
| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa
Carob leaves, the source of BotanicaLite Image credit: Eva Ackermann
ETHNIC CARE
NATURAL LIGHTENING INGREDIENT
been determined in comparison
with its high expectations of seeing
to three commercially available
results quickly.
Due to an increasing awareness
skin lightening actives: Arbutin;
of the negative effects of
Kojic Acid and Niacinamide.
MEETING AFRICA’S NEEDS
Hydroquinone, interest is growing
The IC50, half maximal inhibition
Botanica Natural Products prides
in safer skin lightening alternatives.
concentration for Tyrosinase,
itself on conducting extensive
Although African consumers
was determined for these four
are accustomed to products
actives. Results showed the
that contain high amounts of
IC50 for BotanicaLite is
Hydroquinone, legislation regulating
considerably lower
focuses on being
its use is being implemented at most
than that of Arbutin.
involved throughout
ports of entry. Changing consumers’
when introducing new active ingredients. The company
DID YOU KNOW?
In addition, in vivo
mindsets has been a challenging
studies were performed
endeavour for brand owners and
to determine the
manufacturers, as consumers are
performance of
used to seeing visible skin lightening
BotanicaLite when used
results within 15 days of application.
in combination with
Botanica’s latest product offering,
research and development
the value chain, from agriculture to processing and
BotanicaTimola can be incorporated into the water phase of a cosmetics formulation. The recommended concentration level is between two and five percent.
Niacinamide, a known
distribution, to ensure quality is maintained. Botanica’s product range, experience in exporting to Africa and results of its clinical trials,
BotanicaLite is formulated using a
Melanose transfer inhibitor.
targeted extract of the leaf of the
Study results showed the
mean the company has the
Carob tree (Ceratonia siliqua). It is
BotanicaLite-Niacinamide
specified to address skin blemishes
combination significantly reduced
to traditional skin lightening and
and for lightening skin tone. This
induced pigmentation after only
effective skin soothing ingredients. •
is achieved by inhibiting the
14 days, concluding the safe and
production of melanin in a safe and
effective skin lightening results of the
sustainable manner. BotanicaLite’s
product. This also means the product
efficacy in inhibiting Tyrosinase has
is well-suited to the African market
solutions to end the search for a safe, sustainable alternative
Botanica Natural Products – www.timola.co.za
BotanicaLITE® SAFE SKIN LIGHTENING BotanicaLITE® is a South African skin lightening active extracted from the Carob (Ceratonia siliqua) tree. By inhibiting the production of melanin in a safe and sustainable manner, the carob leaf extract has been clinically proven to: Lighten skin as a safe & cost effective alternative to hydroquinone, bleach or other skin lighteners Treat skin blemishes & promote even tone within 28 days at a recommended dosage of 3% Reduce the darkness of skin spots that form due to age or exposure to the sun Combined with BotanicaTIMOLA®, an effective soothing active, BotanicaLITE® offers a safe, effective solution for cosmetic formulations focused on skin lightening.
CONTACT US AT info@timola.co.za | www.timola.co.za Canterbury Farm MR 254, PO Box 361, Alldays, South Africa 0909
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |
17
ETHNIC CARE
Essential natural
hair care ingredients Ethnic hair has unique needs. Natchem, with its large portfolio of natural ingredients from Greentech, offers multiple solutions for Africa’s hair care industry.
W
The generally recognised
hen it comes to hair
film on skin, much like the activity
care, it is vital for
of silicone. However, in contrast to
composition of Murumuru butter
African consumers to
silicone, which is synthetic, Murumuru
includes Lauric, Myristic, Oleic,
know how certain
ingredients perform on their hair. Natchem has realised
Palmitic, Stearic and Linoleic acids.
is of natural origin.
DID YOU KNOW?
Thanks to its fatty acid
Owing to its lipidic nature, Murumuru
content, Murumuru butter
butter forms a protective layer on the
In Kenya in 2014, conditioners and scalp. It prevents experienced the fastest in Africa’s hair care water loss from skin’s value growth of 7.5 percent. Oil moisturisers and braid sprays are market. The company cutaneous layers, included in this category; these teamed up with its leaving it betterproducts are extremely popular for principal, Greentech, moisturised and regrooming Ethnic hair. There is also to study the efficacy of balanced. an increase in the trend towards existing raw materials Murumuru butter is natural hair and natural hair styles, away from treated hair. and new complex oil obtained from kernels of Source: www.beautycompositions on Ethnic hair. the Astrocaryum murumuru africa.com
hair fibre and smoothes the cuticle.
global hair care product claims
Following test protocol, scanning
this need and the gap
is ideal for use on dry skin
for potential growth
This is because 52 percent of
tree, which is native to South
America and widespread in the
Its natural gloss brings a desirable shine to dry and damaged hair. It can be formulated into shampoos, conditioners and moisturising skin care products. When tested on Ethnic hair in a conditioner formulation containing one percent Murumuru butter, the ingredient performed well against a placebo product.
use words such as botanical or
Amazon Basin. The natural fatty
electron microscopy (SEM) analysis
natural, and more and more African
extract is produced by cold-pressing
showed smoothened hair scales
consumers are including natural
the palm tree kernels.
and regulated hair fibres owing to
oils and butters into their hair care regimes. The more common oils are olive, avocado and coconut oil, which are known for their ability to penetrate the hair shaft. While these
Figure 1: Greentech’s Murumuru butter visibly repairs damaged hair fibres
Placebo
Placebo
Murumuru butter
Murumuru butter
oils are excellent and tried and tested, there are other more exotic oils and butters, which are highly beneficial for natural hair. These include Murumuru and Kpangnan butters, and Argan, Baobab and Inca Inchi oils, which are produced by Greentech and distributed throughout Africa by Natchem.
BEAUTIFUL BRAZILIAN BUTTER During the ’40s and ’50s, Murumuru butter was highly valued in the USA and Europe, when it served as an ingredient in vegetable creams and soaps. Today the ingredient is widely acclaimed for its benefits in hair and skin care products. Soaps containing Murumuru butter are known to leave a protective
18
| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa
ETHNIC CARE Figure 2: Greentech’s organic Lipactive Baobab oil is effective is protecting and restoring the hair fibre
Placebo
Placebo
Baobab
Baobab
A baobab tree in Burkina Faso, West Africa
the damage repair properties of
68 percent oil, which is composed of
and prices, and provides quality
Murumuru butter (see Figure 1).
Linoleic, Palmitic and Oleic acids.
standards and training.
SUSTAINABLE ORGANIC HAIR CARE OIL
Greentech’s organic Lipactive Baobab oil is obtained from the seeds of the Baobab tree. This
Baobab oil is mostly widely used
product contributes to restoring
in cosmetics as an emollient and
hair’s smoothness and is ideal for
a skin and hair conditioner. The oil
use in restructuring hair care and
is produced using the fruit of the
shampoo products.
Baobab tree, which is native to various parts of Africa. According to Greentech, the
The company first began producing Lipactive Baobab oil in Burkina Faso in 1999 when
Organic Lipactive Baobab oil
ORGANIC LIPACTIVE BAOBAB OIL HAS A NUTRITIVE POWER
has a nutritive power associated with its numerous fatty acids. These contribute to restoring hair’s smoothness, improve the hydrolipidic layer on the scalp and give hair its luminosity. When tested at one percent in a conditioner versus a placebo, SEM images show how organic Lipactive
leaves, barks, seeds and fruit pulp of
Greentech implemented a fair trade
Baobab oil coats the hair cuticle,
the tree present interesting cosmetics
and sustainable supply chain in
therefore softening and protecting the
and nutritional properties. The ovoid
collaboration with an autonomous
hair fibre (see Figure 2). •
fruit, also known as ‘monkey bread’
group. The programme involves
contains brown seeds surrounded in
a group of more than 50 women
white pulp. These seeds are rich in
to which Greentech donates
proteins and thiamine. They contain
equipment, guarantees quantities
Greentech – www.greentech.fr Natchem – www.natchem.co.za
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |
19
ETHNIC CARE
Beauty of
versatility
After a week of interviewing consumers both with natural and with relaxed hair, the company now has a solid base to work from and panel tests are already underway. The testing is taking place within the newest area at the Centre of Excllence – the hair salon. These studies will involve African consumers to ensure relevant data is generated, which the
Croda South Africa’s personal care technical team is now company’s local customers can then access for new product development. ideally equipped to support product claims for the African skin and hair care markets. The company recently A CLOSER LOOK AT installed state-of-the-art equipment to assess hair THE FACILITY DID The hair salon is located breakage and has a new salon for panel testing. YOU KNOW?
I
t’s been 18 months since Croda South Africa officially opened its Centre
Aeysha Jakoet and Dineo Modisaesi from Croda South Africa recently successfully completed the Coschem Diploma in Cosmetic Science.
of Excellence. Since the original opening, the company has continued to invest in the centre. ‘Most consumers desire strong, healthy hair that is full of shine. Regardless of this desire, consumers do not want to give
ABOVE The new hair salon within Croda South Africa’s Centre of Excellence BELOW Croda South Africa’s new Dia-Stron Tensile Tester
laboratory, which is equipped with temperature and humidity controlled climatic chambers for hair testing. The salon facility will focus primarily
on supporting claims for Type VI to VIII Black African hair. All studies will be conducted by trained hairdressers, led by Croda’s application scientists. A new Dia-Stron Tensile Tester has been
up damaging regimes such as relaxing
installed in the Centre of Excellence to
and styling. Constant grooming and
measure the tensile (strength) properties of
combing can also damage the hair
hair fibres at different humidities. The Dia-
cuticle. We were looking for a way to not
Stron Cyclic Tester is designed to simulate
only measure the tensile properties of
the repeated tensile stress hair fibres
hair, but also analyse hair as it degrades
experience during brushing and combing.
over its lifetime,’ says Croda South Africa’s
A repeated force is applied to single hair
technical manager, Christien Gordon.
fibres and the number of cycles required for failure (also known as ‘fatigue testing’) is
UNDERSTANDING LOCAL CONSUMERS’ NEEDS
evaluated at different humidities.
To further identify the key hair care
SKIN AND SUN CARE
needs of African consumers, the
The local team also has expertise in
company’s marketing team recently
formulation and claim substantiation for
undertook extensive studies on consumer
skin and sun care applications. Testing
focus groups.
protocols are conducted using state-of-
‘The main reason for our focus group
Croda South Africa’s personal care team
adjacent to the efficacy
the-art equipment to generate consumer-
studies was to confirm our observations
appealing claims such as moisturisation,
of the African hair care market, to identify
oil control, barrier repair, barrier integrity/
gaps and use the information gathered
disruption, skin flaking/dryness, shine
as a basis for testing the right products
reduction, counter-irritancy, and even skin
on the right hair types,’ adds Croda
tone. All testing is carried out in a humidity
South Africa’s marketing manager,
and temperature controlled room to
Chantel McCallum.
remove any environmental influences on product efficacy. Croda also offers expertise in formulating with its extensive portfolio of metal oxides. Sun care studies are conducted using the Labsphere UV2000S and Suntest CPS+ for in vitro SPF measurements. ·
Croda South Africa – www.croda.com
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| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa
ETHNIC CARE
Masking skin imperfections
T
he African beauty and skin
feel while masking skin imperfections like
designed products that are easy to use,
care market has taken off,
uneven tone. This multi-functional, patent-
offer production versatility and can enrich
with Euromonitor International
pending emulsion also offers long-lasting,
the look, feel and performance with a
predicting an annual growth rate of
moisturising effects.
single additive.’
five to 10 percent in the sales of beauty and personal care products. Research data shows Africans are increasingly looking to products that are more suited to local conditions. For African women, key skin care concerns include dark spots and uneven complexion,
VELVESIL E-GEL PMF EMULSION CAN HELP MASK SKIN IMPERFECTIONS LIKE UNEVEN TONE
MULTIFUNCTIONAL SILICONE EMULSION
Velvesil E-Gel PMF emulsion is an ideal formulation ingredient for toners, serums, sunscreens and foundations, as well as leave-in and rinse-off hair care products. It can help achieve a cushioning sensory
whereas Western women first focus on addressing wrinkles and fine lines.
SOFT-FOCUS EFFECT AND CUSHIONING FEEL
‘Multi-functional ingredients such as
with additional soft focus benefits out of
Velvesil gels are increasingly sought
the aqueous phase in formulations. This is
after by cosmetics manufacturers. This is
because it has a refractive index close to
mainly thanks to their ability to enhance
the skin to deliver a ‘blurring effect’. Velvesil E-Gel PMF emulsion is easy to use
Momentive Performance Materials
sensory and performance benefits while
(Momentive), represented throughout
reducing the complexity and costs
and suitable for cold processing. It is also
Africa by Savannah Fine Chemicals, has
associated with producing products in
paraben-free. •
launched a silicone-based cross polymer
the colour cosmetics, skin and hair care
network emulsion for aqueous-based skin
segments,’ says Beatriz Blanco, senior
care, cosmetics and hair care formulations.
business director at Momentive. ‘Our
Velvesil E-Gel PMF emulsion can help formulators deliver a luxurious, soft-skin
talented research and development teams continue to develop creatively
Momentive – www.momentive.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc.info@savannah.co.za
®
THINK HAIR CARE? THINK KAHLWAX. KahlWax offers a great variety of natural waxes for hair care products such as oils, conditioners or masks. Re-envision your hair care formulations – with solutions and services that meet your requirements exactly and with ingredients that naturally fulfill consumer wishes, such as an impressive combability and manageability. KahlWax. The ingredients for care. www.kahlwax.com
sfc-info@savannah.co.za | www.savannah.co.za
2017-03 Ad_P&C Mai_KahlWax.indd 1
10.05.17 12:13
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |
21
ETHNIC CARE
Keratin alternative for stronger, healthier hair ChemSystems’ international technology partner, Tri-K has developed a new botanical solution for keratin therapy. Fision KeraVeg18 is an effective and sustainable alternative to hydrolysed keratin to protect, condition and repair hair. By Elzbieta Kasprzyk, Catherine Centro and Saso Efremovski
T
hese days, having beautiful hair
allows for recoil after the fibre is stretched.
to hydrolysed keratin has recently been
has a multitude of meanings for
In the cortex, three alpha helices are
identified. It consists of a cohesive solution
consumers. While the concept
bundled together to form microfibrils. These
of wheat and soy amino acids with the
is influenced by factors such as
are grouped together and embedded
ethnicity, regional concerns and trends,
in a matrix of hardened, high
gorgeous locks are always synonymous
sulphur protein. Pigment
with strong, healthy looking hair.
(melanin) is also
New hair care product launches are
embedded in the cortex.
becoming more sophisticated and reflect
The last primary layer,
many of the desires traditionally reserved for
the medulla, consists of
skin care. One example is hair care products
an open space within
with anti-aging benefits. These products
the centre of the hair.
typically address concerns of an ageing
This is often discontinuous
population, which include loss of volume,
and sometimes completely
enhanced breakage, roughness, dryness
absent of fibres.
and poor flexibility of the hair. These needs are also applicable to younger generations. Unlike the skin, hair is incapable of selfrepair. If left untreated, it begins to look and feel unhealthy as damage accumulates.
DID YOU KNOW?
Most symptoms associated with damage are localised to the
18 mimics the functional ratios of amino acids in human hair. Arginine reinforces hair fibres to resist breakage while serine acts as a precursor to ceramides and aids in providing intense
conditioning properties for hair. Threonine is an essential amino acid,
areas of concern.
balance in the body.
Normal grooming such as brushing hair
(approximately 90 percent keratin). It
can damage the cuticle by lifting and
also contains water, lipids, pigments and
breaking individual scales, making it
trace elements. Keratin is comprised of 18
difficult to comb and style. Damage
different amino acids and forms different
to the cuticle also reduces shine.
shapes (or conformations) depending
Heat is destructive; blow dryers
on its location within the fibre. The three
and hot irons cause the inside
primary layers of hair fibres consist of the
of the hair fibre to expand
cuticle, cortex and medulla. The cuticle is
quickly, which can crack the
the outer, protective layer. It consists mostly
hardened cuticle. Chemical
of beta (ß)-keratin, which is organised into
treatments and UV exposure
flat sheets referred to as scales. This form
further compromise to
of keratin contains cysteine and other
the cuticle’s integrity and
amino acids such as arginine, cysteic
increase porosity. This leaves
acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine,
hair more susceptible
phenylalanine, proline, threonine and
to frizzing or becoming
tyrosine. The cortex lies under the cuticle
excessively dry and brittle.
and constitutes approximately 80 percent
A compromised cuticle
of hair’s mass and is responsible for its
also allows chemicals to
strength, elasticity and flexibility. In the
penetrate fibres easily and
cortex, polypeptides are coiled into a
weaken the inner cortex.
| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa
sources. Fision KeraVeg
which supports maintenance of protein
Hair is composed predominantly of protein
22
fermented vegetable
cuticle and cortex, which is why they are key
A LOOK AT THE STRUCTURE
keratin. This shape provides resiliency and
and threonine derived from
For decades, hydrolysed keratin has been used to fortify hair and counteract damage. Yet as demand increases for vegan friendly products, the need for a keratin alternative has never been greater.
CARING FOR THE CUTICLE AND CORTEX
helical structure referred to as alpha (α)-
addition of pure arginine, serine
A vegetablebased alternative
Efficacy testing on chemically damaged African and Caucasian hair shows that Fision KeraVeg18 addresses the needs
ETHNIC CARE Figure 1: Fision KeraVeg18 is shown to help counteract hair concerns by improving elasticity and strength. In these tests, Fision KeraVeg18 appeared to be more effective than hydrolysed keratin
of both the cuticle and cortex. For all studies, performance comparisons were made between the plant-based material and hydrolysed keratin. Both ingredients were tested at two percent, either in aqueous solutions (elasticity and strength of Caucasian hair) or in a shampoo and conditioner (for the remaining studies). African hair was chemically damaged with a no-lye relaxer (Soft Sheen Carson Healthy Gloss 5 kit), while Caucasian hair was triple bleached (both chemical processes simulate real-life damage). Tests measured improvements in elasticity, strength, wet and dry combability, antioxidant capacity and a sensory evaluation.
TESTS WITH PROMISING RESULTS Elasticity and strength These characteristics are two of the defining qualities of healthy hair. Elasticity is an
results than hydrolysed keratin
important attribute of healthy hair and is
(see Figure 1 and 2). It was
described as hair’s ability to be stretched
also shown to increase the
without damage. As a result, the more
strength of African hair by
elastic the hair, the less prone it is to styling
3.9 percent and Caucasian
damage. The stronger the hair, the better
hair by 21 percent (see
it can withstand frequent combing forces
Figure 1 and 2). In addition
without breaking.
to leaving hair stronger and
In these studies, a Dia-Stron MTT175
more resilient, these results
Miniature Tensile Tester with Dia-Stron Crimp
also suggest the botanical
Assembly System was used to test hair’s
alternative may help
elasticity and strength. The instrument
repair damage caused by
measures elasticity as elastic extension,
chemical processing.
which is the amount of force that can be applied to stretch the fibre before it
Wet and dry combing
becomes damaged. Strength is measured
When hair is wet or heated,
as total work, which is the amount of force
hydrogen and salt bonds
required to break the fibre.
break and reform after the
Fision KeraVeg18 increased elasticity of
EFFICACY TESTING ON CHEMICALLY DAMAGED AFRICAN AND CAUCASIAN HAIR SHOWS THAT FISION KERAVEG18 ADDRESSES THE NEEDS OF BOTH THE CUTICLE AND CORTEX
hair dries and returns to
means hair is weaker and more susceptible to breakage when wet. Extra care needs to be taken when combing wet hair as the process can be highly damaging. When dry, damaged hair is typically more difficult to style and comb. Poor manageability often results in the need to use excessive combing force, which can further damage and break individual hair fibres. For this study, the DiaStron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester was adjusted to the combing orientation and used to measure the
African and Caucasian hair fibres by 16
normal temperature. Both bonds contribute
force required to comb wet and dry hair.
and 18 percent respectively, proving better
to hair’s elasticity and strength, which
Combing forces were measured after one
Chemsystems, Consumer Specialities division, is a trusted distributor and local manufacturer of speciality and commodity raw materials into the Personal Care and Homecare industry offering:
“Our expertise, your solution”
ChemSystems.indd 1
• Glycerine • Propylene Glycol • Antiperspirant Actives • Emulsifiers • Emollients • Esters • Rheology Modifiers • Hair Polymers • Proteins • Emulsifying Waxes • Sunscreen Actives
• Range of Surfactants • Silicones and Silicone additives • Preservatives/Biocides • Conditioning agents • Concentrated blends such as body lotions, conditioners, antiperspirants etc. • Botanicals • Actives
Johannesburg Thureya Sarlie Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za AECI Chempark, 200 Bergrivier Drive, Chloorkop, Kempton Park, 1624
Chemsystems, a division of AECI
2017/06/20 1:17 PM
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |
23
ETHNIC CARE Figure 2: Fision KeraVeg18 is effective on a variety of hair types and can help improve properties such as elasticity and tensile strength. In addition to leaving Caucasian hair stronger and more resilient, these results suggest Fision KeraVeg18 may help repair damage caused by chemically processing the hair
to improve hair flexibility and allow for easier knot removal. For dry hair, panelists rated the Fision KeraVeg 18 as delivering equal performance benefits to hydrolysed keratin for knot removal, styling ease, shine and improvements in frizz and static. In addition to leaving hair looking and feeling healthier, these results demonstrate the multiple benefits Fision KeraVeg18 can deliver to fortify and rejuvenate hair.
Antioxidant capacity Hair is continuously exposed to various forms of oxidative damage including Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), which are free radicals that can damage the hair and scalp. ROS are generated by UV and heat treatments, and can accelerate hair’s ageing, weaken its fibres and irritate the scalp. Hair is extremely sensitive to oxidation when wet, and as a result, can be damaged easier. and five applications of either test material.
alternative to hydrolysed animal keratin by
Fision KeraVeg18 was shown to improve
delivering equal combing benefits to wet
hydrolysates, peptides and amino acids are
wet combing by nine and 43 percent
hair and superior combing benefits to dry
understood to show significant antioxidant
respectively, after one and five applications
hair. Improvements in combability are an
ability. The antioxidant capacities of
compared to the placebo shampoo and
indication of a smoother, healthier cuticle.
Fision KeraVeg18 and hydrolysed keratin
conditioner. The hydrolysed keratin was
Plant and animal derived protein
were measured with the Oxygen Radical
shown to improve wet combing by 15 and
Sensory evaluation
43 percent respectively, after one and five
Five women of various descents were
expressed in Trolox equivalent units. Trolox
applications. Compared to the placebo,
asked to evaluate the performance of
is a water-soluble analog of Vitamin E.
dry combing was improved by 59 and
Fision KeraVeg18 versus hydrolysed keratin
Results indicate that Fision KeraVeg18 has
67 percent with the vegetable ingredient,
in a half head study on mannequins with
an antioxidant capacity equivalent to
after one and five applications, while 38 and
Caucasian hair. Both materials were added
152μM of trolox while hydrolysed keratin is
53 percent improvements were achieved
separately to a commercial shampoo
equivalent to 157μM. This data indicates
respectively with hydrolysed keratin.
and conditioner at two percent. The
Fision KeraVeg18 provides similar antioxidant
panelists were asked to evaluate specific
protection as hydrolysed keratin to help limit
effectively improves manageability in
characteristics of wet and dry hair after one
oxidative damage to the hair and scalp. •
wet and dry hair by making hair easier
and four applications. The evaluations were
to comb. In addition to improving the
determined on an 11-point scale from zero
overall styling experience, the ingredient
(worst) to 10 (best).
This data indicates the plant material
may help limit further damage. The study results also confirm the material is a good
24
| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa
In the wet hair evaluation, panelists favoured the Fision KeraVeg18 for its ability
Absorbance Capacity method and
ChemSystems – www.chemsystems.co.za Tri-K – www.tri-k.com
PERSONAL CARE
Scratching the science of itching SymMollient W/S is ideal for shampoos, bath and shower products. This hydrophilic emollient not only improves skin’s tolerance of surfactants but also acts as a skin and scalp soothing agent. By Abby Vorster
W
tested in a clinical randomised single-blind study versus a placebo. The volunteers, ranging in age from 18 to 60, all suffered from itchy scalp. Each volunteer tested both shampoos, one by one, according to a randomisation chart. Evaluation was conducted on both the short and long term effects of SymMollient W/S, as well as its overall tolerability. The results are detailed in Figures 1 and 2. ‘Study protocol followed a two-fold approach to evaluate the instant
hen Symrise first
not freely available on
launched SymMollient
the market.’
W/S in 2007, the hydrophilic emollient
After establishing in vitro the itch-relief properties
was positioned to improve skin’s
of SymMollient W/S,
suppleness by restoring its lipid
Symrise went on to test
content (refatting effect). Its efficacy
the hydrophilic emollient
was proven in a series of in vitro
in vivo on 20 Caucasian
and in vivo studies, confirming
volunteers (13 males and
its anti-dehydrating effect and
7 females).
that it improves skin’s tolerance of surfactants. This aqueous blend of Trideceth-9
THE COMBINATION OF INGREDIENTS IN SYMMOLLIENT W/S PROVIDED THE BEST ITCHINHIBITION PERFORMANCE
and long-term benefits of SymMollient W/S. Firstly the instant itch decrease was evaluated after one, five, 15 and 30 minutes, while the long-term scalp soothing benefits associated with itching and erythema were assessed after seven days,’ Jung concludes. ·
Two percent SymMollient W/S formulated in a common mild shampoo base was
Symrise – www.symrise.com
and PEG-5 Isononanoate was put to the test again in 2015 to confirm its
Figure 1: SymMollient W/S instantly decreases the itching sensation
soothing properties and ability to help combat itching.
ADDRESSING GLOBAL CONCERNS Scalp irritation is linked mainly to dandruff though it is not limited to this condition. According to Symrise, irritations such as itching and redness are often associated with aggressive treatments like relaxers, an oily scalp or external factors such as cold and dry climates. Product intolerance is a key concern for consumers with scalp irritation issues. When purchasing hair and scalp products these consumers first want to make sure the products
Figure 2: SymMollient W/S imparts long-term relief from itching and erythema
won’t irritate their scalp. To assist customers in meeting consumers’ evolving personal care needs, like scalp irritation, Symrise screened more than 15 000 compounds to establish their itchinhibition abilities. Lars Jung, product manager from Symrise explains: ‘The combination of ingredients in SymMollient W/S provided the best itch-inhibition performance. This includes PEG-5 Isononanoate, which is a unique Symrise product produced specifically for our company and
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |
25
PERSONAL CARE
Novel silicones for hair and skin
Wacker has launched several new products for the cosmetics industry. These include a silicone fluid emulsion, silicone elastomer gel, amino silicone microemulsion, and a phenyl silicone fluid.
W
ith Belsil DM 5700 E, formulators can develop
particularly mild shampoos. This silicone fluid emulsion promotes foam formation and has a noticeable conditioning effect even in low quantities.
BELSIL DM 5700 E IS SUITABLE FOR USE IN SULPHATEFREE SHAMPOOS
This finely dispersed emulsion
Belsil DM 5700 E is suitable for use in sulphate-free shampoos. The miniscule droplets of silicone fluid in the emulsion, which are just 300 nanometers in size, are deposited selectively on the hair fibres. This achieves a more effective silicone deposition than less finely dispersed silicone
of a silicone fluid in water was one
emulsions and consequently offers
of the highlights presented by
greater efficacy. Belsil DM 5700 E
Wacker at in-cosmetics Global.
makes hair softer, smooth, supple
Belsil DM 5700 E is a low-viscosity,
and easier to comb.
milky-white liquid that can be used to formulate shampoos to
SILICONE ELASTOMER GEL
clean and condition hair. Unlike
Belsil EG 6000 can be used as an
conventional silicone emulsions, it contains an emulsifying system that consists of an alkyl polyglucoside and sorbitan laurate. These nonionic surfactants are based on renewable raw materials and make the silicone fluid emulsion particularly mild and gentle on skin.
The transparent, colourless silicone elastomer gel, Belsil EG 6000 is an ideal additive for moisturising creams, mascaras and deodorants
active agent in decorative and moisturising cosmetics. This product imparts a pleasant skin feel, which generally cannot be achieved using conventional silicone elastomer gels. The gel also ensures the spreadability of a formulation on skin. Shampoos formulated with Wacker’s new hair conditioning agent, Belsil DM 5700 E generate a particularly fine-pored foam that looks and feels creamy
During a panel test performed in Wacker’s applications lab, participants described the novel skin feel as supple, mild, nongreasy, silky and dry. Belsil EG 6000 is based on a traditional addition-curing silicone elastomer and contains a linear volatile silicone fluid as its liquid component. The new product differs from conventional silicone elastomer gels, which use either a cyclic or a non-volatile silicone fluid as the liquid base. As a result, it can significantly improve the skinsensory and rheological properties of moisturising creams, mascaras and deodorants.
MICROEMULSION AND A GLOSS AGENT Belsil ADM 8105 E is characterised by its excellent conditioning properties. Hair treated with this amino silicone microemulsion is said to be silky and easy to comb. Typical applications are conditioners, hair masks and shampoos, particularly transparent shampoo formulations. Belsil PF 22, which was also showcased for the first time at in-cosmetics, has allowed the Munich-based chemical group to expand its silicone fluid product range to include a traditional phenyl silicone fluid. This colourless, low-viscosity fluid has a refractive index of 1.46, greater than that of polydimethylsiloxanes. It can act as a gloss agent for various cosmetics formulations. Preparations formulated with Belsil PF 22 give a high-quality impression both visually and to the touch. They also spread easily and do not feel too tacky. When applied, the phenyl silicone fluid forms a thin fluid film, which not only improves gloss, but also makes hair or skin soft and supple, while developing water repellency without affecting skin breathing. The phenyl silicone fluid reduces, for example, the tackiness of sunscreen formulations while increasing their water resistance. ·
Wacker – www.wacker.com
26
| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa
QUALITY CONTROL
Five ways to
keep cleanrooms clean The production of pharmaceuticals requires effective solutions that can guarantee excellent hygiene, top product quality, and safe working conditions for operators. Cleaning equipment supplier Nilfisk aids in quality control by guaranteeing maximum hygiene in clean rooms in the least possible time.
T
he pharmaceutical industry presents demanding challenges for the industrial and institutional cleaning
sector. Gavin Herold, Nilfisk’s GM of
FLOORS ARE DEEPCLEANED AND DRIED IN ONE SINGLE PASS, EVEN IN SMALL AND CONGESTED AREAS
versatile with stand-on, walk-behind and ride-on models, allowing greater access to divergent spaces. Small, battery-operated microscrubber driers can be used in tight areas.
3. ECO-FRIENDLY The latest technology either radically reduces use of detergents or completely replaces them with water or bio-products. Nilfisk’s Ecoflex system temporarily boosts
Africa and the Middle East, says it is
water and detergent for more
the most complex and demanding
aggressive cleaning tasks while
of all industries the company
using the minimal amount in
operates in worldwide. ‘Standards of
other areas.
hygiene, safety and productivity are extremely high to provide the end
4. PRODUCTIVITY
user with a safe, effective product.’
By doing the job quicker, better and
Keeping the clean room clean
more reliably, investment in new
is the biggest challenge of all.
technologies produces a quick
According to Herold, there are five
ROI in terms of reduced labour
key areas where the company’s next
costs, resources and maintenance.
generation industrial vacuums, dust
Floors are deep-cleaned and dried
containment filter units, pneumatic
in one single pass, even in small
conveyors, scrubber driers and high pressure washers can make a big difference.
1. SPECIALISATION Equipment specifically designed for clean rooms works best. It maintains the purity in the environment, collects and contains
ABOVE The Nilfisk VHW321 is one of the smoothest industrial vacuums, which boasts GMP conformity for pharmaceutical, food and chemical applications BELOW Nilfisk’s VHW421 industrial vacuum cleaner meets all requirements in terms of hygiene, cleanness, safety and performance
and congested areas. Specific machines for different spaces and one-pass efficiency are just some of the ways productivity can be substantially improved. There is also the upside of increased safety through reduced risk of slippery floors and accidents.
any kind of dust and avoids cross
5. LOWERED COSTS
contamination. The key factor for
It is possible to achieve significant
clean rooms is zero contamination,
reductions in consumption of water,
which requires a HEPA-filtered or
electricity and disposables. Recent
ULPA- filtered vacuum, depending
water shortages in South Africa,
on the nature of contaminants to
especially in the Western Cape, have
be controlled. You should expect
highlighted the value of new orbital
the machinery to meet the most
scrubbers, which paired with a
demanding of IS04 standards.
squeegee design, leave floors dry in
Accessories also matter and should
a single pass and markedly reduce
be FDA certified with metal parts
water consumption. The machinery
made in stainless steel AISI 316L and
also eliminates the need to use
able to be sterilised in autoclave.
multiple chemicals, which ultimately
2. VERSATILITY Nilfisk’s new generation of equipment is more compact and
reduces supply chain costs. •
Nilfisk – www.nilfisk.com
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |
27
PACKAGING
Motion solutions on display at KITE 2017 Omron will showcase its flagship Sysmac motion solutions at the KwaZulu-Natal Industrial Technology Exhibition (KITE), which will take place from 26 to 28 July at the Durban Exhibition Centre in KZN, South Africa.
T
he exhibition is perceived as a major platform for Omron’s product offerings and solutions.
The company’s motion solutions incorporate robotic and visual
DID YOU KNOW?
our target industries, creating an
hand to interact with customers.
our presence in, and offerings to,
Application engineers will also
the region.’
be available to field high-end
SERVING QUALITY Products that will be exhibited are
believe there is a lot of potential in KwaZulu-Natal. KITE has a good track record of attracting the relevant stakeholders in most of
LEFT BELOW The LD Mobil Robot RIGHT BELOW Omron’s NX remote
experience with visitors. Omron’s management team will be present to demonstrate the
products, servos and variable speed
company’s total commitment to
drives. Human-machine interface (HMI) and various general
its customers.
control components will also be
SERVICING NEEDS
revealed at the event.
KITE 2017 will provide an informal, yet
‘We will be focusing on any customer looking for cost-effective
and control solutions that meet, and
general manager, says: ‘We
wealth of product and application
NX remote I/O, vision systems, safety
and innovative automation, motion
Victor Marques, Omron’s country
technical queries and share their
the Sysmac motion and PLC control,
KITE 2017 is a biennial event with a track record that spans almost 33 years.
inspection control.
Field sales engineers will be on
ideal opportunity for us to highlight
professional platform for customers to approach Omron concerning specific solution enquiries. ‘We offer one of the most, if
even exceed, their requirements,’
not the most, comprehensive
Marques highlights.
variety of products and solutions
The company has experience and references in areas such as motion and drive control, PLC and HMI as
to meet our customers’ industrial automation needs.’ This ranges from a basic general
well as automation networks, visual
electronic component level to high-
inspection control and robotics.
end products. ‘Our stand will be clean, uncluttered and, at a glance, will give potential customers a good overview of what we have on offer from a total-solutions point of view,’ Marques concludes. •
Omron – www.industrial.omron.co.za
Your specialist automation partner As a partner in all your automation requirements we offer personal solutions, knowledge and expertise. Whether your automation requires a simple and economical solution, or your target is advanced, highspeed control, you can find what you need in Omron’s line-up of quality products and solutions. Omron Electronics ZA 011 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com www.industrial.omron.co.za
28
| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa
PACKAGING
Best practices
to stop counterfeiting Organisational techniques are continually being improved to drive down the production of counterfeit pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. More companies have been investing in security features to improve their packaging. P C Africa looks at anti-theft systems and how they’re assisting in the fight against fake products.
Q&A
C
ompanies from all industries have been investing resources and money in brand protection. This has been done over decades to limit the risk exposure to
product piracy, counterfeiting, unlicensed production and more. Despite all efforts, numbers of counterfeit goods continue to increase, resulting in monetary loss and damage to a brand’s reputation. Jacqueline Gan, deputy MD and co-founder of NanoMatriX, provides answers on what can be
the most expensive. To ensure
It is also important that all
no money is wasted on
security features are verifiable,
project failures, we have a
to the point of recycling.
set of questions a company
WHO INSPECTS SECURITY FEATURES ON PACKAGING?
should answer to shortlist the security features that can contribute positively
WHY IS IT DIFFICULT TO PROTECT A BRANDED PRODUCT FROM COUNTERFEITING CRIMES?
to an efficient brand
JG: Inspectors can be
protection strategy.
consumers, professional
Jacqueline Gan
inspectors, members of the
WHAT ISSUES SHOULD BE ADDRESSED FIRST?
agencies. Each inspector has a set of
JG: Companies should identify specific
capabilities and different inspection
JG: Each company’s supply and sales
problems that will adversely affect a brand
tools available. A brand’s ideal inspector
channel is unique. It evolves over time.
or product, prioritise them and recognise
would be the consumer. However, a small
There are plenty of opportunities to
what is required to overcome each
percentage of consumers are willing to
damage a brand because of the amount
problem. Potential problems are:
take an active inspector role. Professional
of stakeholders involved in the supply
• counterfeits that can enter authorised
inspectors are hired. They are proficient
chain. Besides protecting a brand with patents and trademarks, companies are advised to apply security features, which
sales channels • f ake products sold on e-commerce platforms
supply chain or law enforcement
in using speciality inspection equipment, which helps organise raids, yet their service comes at a cost.
can detect and provide evidence that
• customers buying fakes unknowingly
‘product crime’ has occurred. This way,
• distribution diversion
consumers, law enforcement or courts
• parallel trading
can efficiently investigate the occurrence
• production overrun
of product crimes and punish any wrong
• product return fraud
WHAT ACTION SHOULD BE TAKEN IF AN INSPECTOR DETECTS AND REPORTS COUNTERFEIT PRODUCTS?
doers efficiently and adequately. The good
• warranty fraud.
JG: A clear communication policy and
news is the wide range of available security
to select the ‘best’ security feature for
WHAT ARE SOME SECURITY FEATURES AND WHERE IS IT BEST TO APPLY THEM?
your product.
JG: Security features comprise security inks,
features have been growing steadily over the years. Yet, it can be challenging
ARE COSTLIER SECURITY MEASURES MORE EFFECTIVE THAN COST-EFFECTIVE ONES?
taggant materials, security labels with or without serial numbers, secure barcoding and more. A security feature should be applied in a specific location or at different
JG: It is imperative to be aware there is
ones. For example, if a security feature can
no one-solution-fits-all formula. The most
be applied on a conveyor belt in a factory,
effective anti-counterfeiting or brand
it does not mean it can be applied on a
protection programmes are not necessarily
pharmaceutical pack containing tablets.
action plan should be determined before the security feature is deployed. The following should be considered: 1. H ow to communicate the presence of counterfeit(s) to the customer? 2. What should be done with the counterfeit product if it is a single product or several containers? 3. W hat should be done with the person or organisation manufacturing and/or selling the counterfeit product? 4. W hat needs to be communicated to government authorities, if required?
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2017 |
29
PACKAGING
THE MOST EFFECTIVE ANTICOUNTERFEITING OR BRAND PROTECTION PROGRAMMES ARE NOT NECESSARILY THE MOST EXPENSIVE ONES done to counteract the influx of counterfeit products.
SMART LABELS POISED FOR GROWTH The global smart label market is expected to reach US$16 billion in value by 2025. This is driven by anti-counterfeit and antitheft applications.
DID YOU KNOW?
Each year, 700 000 people are killed globally by counterfeit medicines and Africa contributes 100 000 of these deaths.
ABOVE NanoMatriX’s TrackMatriX Lock QR with covert and overt information for secure serialisation BELOW A ticket and taggant high security detector
‘Smart labels are preferred over
According to Grand View Research (GVR), companies are
conventional bar code systems
investing to improve their anti-
in retail, fast-moving consumer
theft systems to prevent revenue
goods, and logistics industries’. The
loss and inventory damage.
research organisation predicts that
A smart label is defined as a
these labels will increasingly be
responsive electronic device
used for dynamic display of product
embedded in the object body
information and pricing. Health care and pharmaceuticals
as an identification slip. They are
are estimated to be the fastest
configured with chip, antenna and
growing end-user segments of
BARRICADING ILLICIT DRUG DISTRIBUTION
bonding wires, which help in realtime tracking of assets and goods. Aside from being used to fight theft and counterfeiting, smart
the market with rising use in spoil detection of hospital goods, test samples, medical equipment and drug tracking. •
labels can help companies keep tabs on inventory, engage with purchasers and make sure a
NanoMatriX International – www.nanomatrixsecure.com
product’s integrity has not been compromised. There are some smart labels being used to detect EARLIER THIS YEAR, the World Customs Organization (WCO) and International Institute of Research Against Counterfeit Medicines (IRACM) revealed a new record of 113 million counterfeit drugs seized by custom officials in Africa. These illicit products totalled about €52 million (more than US$58 million). The seizure is part of the WCO and IRACM’s initiative against fake medicines. During the operation, antimalarial drugs, anti-inflammatories, antibiotics, analgesics and gastro-intestinal medicines were among the confiscated products. More than two million doses of anticancer drugs were discovered. The biggest interceptions were made in Nigeria, Benin, Kenya and Togo. This is the fourth joint operation in the fight against fake medicines on the continent. The WCO and IRACM have also cited the Kenyan port city as one of the biggest trafficking points in Africa. This is the point of entry for most counterfeit veterinary products and human medicines.
30
| QUARTER 2 2017 | P C Africa
chemicals, or to position or tilt packaging so that delicate goods aren’t mishandled before reaching the consumer. GVR says radiofrequency identification labels accounted for more than 60 percent of global volumes in 2015. This proportion is expected to grow over the next nine years owing to rising demand in retail sectors. Retail inventory was the largest application segment in 2015, accounting for around 22 percent of the global smart label market volume, where labels are primarily used for real time tracking of goods. NanoMatriX’s holographic and nonholographic security labels for brand protection and consumer engagement
passion for pumps
Pharmaceutical Pump Range CIP/Hygienic Pumps Self-draining capability Purified water process pumps Suitable for high or low viscosity
Shear sensitivity liquids Abrasive fluids handling Certified pumps
Verder Pumps SA (Pty) Ltd • Tel.: +27 (0)11 704 7500 • info@verder.co.za • www.verder.co.za