BEAUTY INNOVATIONS
A refreshing innovation for dry shampoos
In the last few years, dry shampoos have seen rapid growth. This is driven by a combination of a demand for convenience combined with an increasing concern about damage from frequent use of regular shampoos. Experts from Ashland explore innovative ingredients to inspire new dry shampoo formulations.
A
ccording to Mintel, the market is currently worth around USD3 billion and is expected to grow by more than six percent CAGR to 2023. While the developed markets in North America and Europe have the highest market
penetration, there is growing interest in marketing these products in Africa where regular shampooing habits are significantly lower due to concern around the fragility of African hair. Many of today’s formulas are designed with older starch-based technologies that leave hair looking lifeless, dull and, in some cases, just as greasy, failing to meet consumers’ expectations. These products are predominantly aerosols and usually contain starch derivatives based on corn or rice in an alcoholic solvent and
DID YOU KNOW?
Pretty much every dry shampoo will take care of a dirty, oily scalp, letting you go a day or two longer without having to wash your hair, but dry shampoos have evolved. The newest formulas also contain styling ingredients that add volume, thickness, and texture. Source: Allure.com
propellant. They are designed to cleanse the sebum and other dirt from hair and are often hydrophobically modified to enhance cleansing. This approach can lead to dull and lifeless hair due to the fine visible residue left behind after use. Manageability, especially styling, is more difficult.
Advantage Revive can be used at less than half the levels of existing starch offerings while delivering improved cleaning. Sorption analysis of synthetic sebum has
UNCONVENTIONAL CHEMISTRY Ashland recently launched Advantage Revive polymer, an alternative chemistry for dry shampoos. Based on a unique polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) chemistry, Advantage revive leaves hair feeling cleaner and looking shinier with enhanced lustre, while matching the appearance of freshly washed hair. This gives consumers next day hair that looks as good as the first day. Developed by hair care scientists in the R&D Centre of Excellence in Bridgewater, New Jersey, USA, aerosol technology experts performed extensive evaluations of the polymer, including visual and analytical measurements of the cleansing ability, remaining residuals on the hair fibre, as well as spray optimisation. The efficient absorption of sebum and resultant removal through brushing or combing is critical for cleaning performance, allowing for low use levels and restoring the natural condition of the hair.
demonstrated the sorptive capacity to be 2.28 g/g (±0.09) versus a hydrophobically modified starch at less than 0.44 g/g (±0.02) – representing an increase of more than five times (see Figure 1).
EFFECTIVE AND SUSTAINABLE Through sebum absorption and low use levels, Advantage Revive helps to return days-old hair to a cleaner and more natural state with less fibre clumping, improved manageability, and increased overall shine and colour perception. Scientists could quantify this performance using an advanced imaging technique known as hyperspectral imaging. Combining photography with spectroscopy, hyperspectral imaging obtains the entire visible spectrum per pixel allowing for improved depth of perception and analysis. By measuring shine, colour and
Table 1: Typical dry shampoo formulation (packaging – valve Lindal 25.25.25.148; actuator: ST 340, 0.030 orifice)
background, Advantage Revive was evaluated against a commercial dry shampoo (see Figure 2).
FORMULATION GUIDE 1
As demonstrated, colour, shine and overall
Trade name
INCI
% w/w
Concentrate
Ethanol (denatured)
SD alcohol 40-b
Advantage Revive
PVP
5.00
Polymer (Ashland)
Glycerin
Glycerine
0.25
Optiphen OD (Ashland)
Caprylyl Glycol
0.25
Propellant
Hydrocarbon a-46
Propane (and) Isobutane
Total
28
| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa
34.50
60.00 100%
hair condition are realised with this polymer. Through optimised particle size, lower use level and solvent interaction, Advantage Revive polymer has more targeted actuation to help improve the overall sustainability footprint of the manufacturer. Formulators can reduce raw materials,
