Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review April 2021

APRIL 2021 Volume 48 | Number 4

48

years www.pharmacos.co.za

Vanatural bentonite clay

Nature’s beautiful gift

Unilever advocates for a more inclusive vision of beauty

We go inside the new home of Kirsch Pharma South Africa

Teqal unpacks the supply chain benefits of its IML jar

2020/21 P&C Review and Symrise

P&C Review and Symrise are unveiling a re-energised New Product Competition that is relevant to all players in the South African cosmetics industry.

The 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition will now be judged according to the following market segments: • Mass/Masstige • Prestige • Privé Label The entries scoring the highest in each of the three segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.

Who is eligible to enter: • Local and international personal care, hair care, skin care, beauty and cosmetics brands, whose products are available in South Africa.

• Brand owners, private label or house brands, manufacturers, retailers or distributors who have launched new products between 1 January 2019 and May 2021.

review Pharmaceutical & & Cosmetic

All entries will receive confidential reports with extensive feedback from our panel of expert judges, who collectively hold over 100 years’ experience in their respective fields. Each product/range entered into the 2020/21 New Product Competition will be judged on the following criteria: • Formulation design • Regulatory compliance • Packaging • Marketing incorporating social media and digital campaigns.

Entries are now open and will close on 1 June 2021.

For more information or to enter, contact Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review on 071 359 4519 or send an email to Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za. www.pharmacos.co.za

Volume 48 | Number 4 www.pharmacos.co.za

APRIL 2021

Contents 18

26

22

6 News

14 Ethnic Care

Financial aid helps to increase access to medicines in Mexico

The beauty of bentonite clay defined

26 Hygiene & Cleanroom Production

Achieve fast and accurate filling with Gemü’s new servoDrive

Jojoba oil, an effective skin care ingredient

Going green in the cleanroom with Contec

L’Oréal adopts a green sciences approach

Flexible solutions for controlled environments

Silab quadruples its biotechnology production capacity

10 Industry Talk Unilever adopts a positive beauty vision and strategy

12 Trends & Opinions New tool launched to improve online shopping experiences

37 Association News Highlights from Coschem’s virtual hair care seminar

Esco invests in a new training facility

20 Company Focus Kirsch Pharma South Africa relocates to new premises

30 Rigid Packaging Teqal’s IML jar enables manufacturing efficiencies

22 Pharma Focus: Technology

14

I Holland explores the importance of e-learning

32 Home Care

Tecpharm acquisition strengthens Romaco’s business

Technocel natural fibres for cleaning and laundry products EasyRinse Technology enables sustainable foam control

On the cover Bentonite clay – nature’s beautiful gift

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2021

3

FROM THE EDITOR

The team EDITORIAL

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za LAYOUT & DESIGN: David Kyslinger SUB-EDITOR: Delia du Toit

Make inclusion tangible

E

xperts say that inclusive marketing is ‘the future of marketing’. Inclusivity has also been recognised as one of the most pressing challenges that the beauty and personal care industry should address. The good news is changes are being made, and from what I can see, they aren’t superficial.

Earlier this year, Unilever announced that it would be removing the word ‘normal’ from the packaging and advertising of all its beauty and personal care brands. This is one of many steps that the multinational is taking to challenge narrow beauty ideals, help end discrimination in the industry and advocate for a more inclusive vision of beauty. You can read more about Unilever’s vision and strategy on page 10 in this edition of P&C Review.

For products to be more inclusive, formulators require multifunctional ingredients that support the trend towards ‘for-me products’ and customisation.

Vanatural bentonite clay enables the formulation of just-add-water product options, putting the power of customisation in consumers hands. On page 14, Vanderbilt Minerals provides an insightful overview of bentonite clay, its origin and the beneficial properties of this beautiful gift from nature.

Also included in this edition is the latest news from Kirsch Pharma South Africa.

The company has relocated to beautiful new premises located in the JT Ross Park: Plumbago, in Kempton Park. I recently got to see the new office and warehouse facility

which is ultra-modern and decorated with specially commissioned artworks. Turn to page 20 to read more about this.

Controlled environments like cleanrooms are generally regarded as ‘single-use areas’, making it challenging to implement sustainable practices therein. But with Contec ReFIBE – a recycled polyester cleanroom wipe – manufacturers now have access to a sustainable solution for cleaning these critical areas. Featured on page 26, each pack of these wipes prevents 35 plastic bottles from ending up in landfill or contaminating oceans.

Teqal Creative Packaging’s 500mℓ in-mould labelled jar is showcased in our rigid packaging feature on page 30 for its ability to provide supply chain efficiencies in a manufacturing environment. The jars are used for Oh So Heavenly’s body creams and body butters and since making the switch to this packaging, the private label manufacturer has seen a drastic increase in its line efficiencies and has reduced its in-house inventory of these jars.

Stay safe and enjoy the read!

4

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

APRIL 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

SALES EXECUTIVE: Càndida Giambò-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za

INTERNATIONAL SALES

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CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

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P C Review is the official journal of:

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Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Vivian Frittelli

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COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - T he Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

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FORMULATION

DES GN

DID YOU KNOW,

we’re launching a new Formulation Design e-book?

bit.ly/FormulationDesignSignup

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NEWS

Speed up artwork inspection and avoid errors with ProofText EyeC’s new ProofText highly-automated webbased text inspection software is now available worldwide. The software is designed for initial artwork proofreading and revision control to assist creative agencies, prepress service providers, pharma manufacturers, FMCG companies and label and packaging printers in accelerating the artwork creation and pre-press process, shortening proofreading times and helping to avoid costly mistakes.

“ProofText provides up to 50% faster total inspection time than comparable systems on the market due to the highly automated text matching process, best-in-class usability and an efficient evaluation,” says Dominique Elsen, EyeC product manager. “The core functionality of ProofText is comparing manuscripts to initial artwork documents like PDFs or others to find and evaluate differences.”

The intuitive usability, intelligent algorithm and innovative user interface of the software together with the easy-to-use tools allow any user to inspect and evaluate complex documents and artwork, anywhere and without extensive training. The quick check prevents gross errors in advance and avoids upcoming costs.

ProofText is developed especially for text-heavy and multilingual artwork on products such as folding boxes, labels, leaflets, booklets and flexible packaging. To ensure quality right from the artwork creation phase, live text (Unicode) from manuscript and briefing files (Word, HTML, QRD templates and more) is compared with the initial artwork file or proof (PDF). This reduces the artwork revision control cycle by comparing live text of a PDF with a PDF with different revisions. The comparison picks up differences caused by deleted, inserted or changed text as well as deviations in text styles (bold, italic, size and font type). Multiple pages, documents, file formats and languages can also be checked simultaneously in one pass.

Visit www.EyeC-inspection.com to find out more about a virtual demonstration of ProofText.

An artist’s render of the functionality of EyeC’s ProofText inspection software

6

APRIL 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

IFC’s loan will help Mexico’s middle- to low-income population access important therapeutic medicines

Financial aid to help increase access to medicines in Mexico

Globally, 100mn people fall below the

as cardiovascular, oncology, central

poverty line every year as a result of

nervous system and diabetes.”

healthcare costs. The International

Efrén Ocampo, CEO of Neolpharma

Finance Corporation (IFC) works with

group, comments: “We are eager to

generic pharmaceutical companies and

collaborate with IFC in accelerating our

global medical technology companies

expansion plans, while also focusing on

to bring the latest standard of care to

sustainability matters and long-term

emerging markets while ensuring the

growth. By investing in our production

affordability thereof.

capabilities, we aim to bring more

IFC is a member of the World Bank

resilience to our production supply chain.”

Group. It has agreed provide a $30mn to

The financing package consists of a

Neolpharma, a Mexican pharmaceutical

$15mn loan of IFC’s own account and a

manufacturer of APIs and highly-

$15mn loan from the Canada-IFC Blended

specialised generics for private and

Climate Finance Programme (BCFP).

public healthcare use. The loan will

This is the first transaction of IFC in the

satisfy the growing demand for these

pharmaceutical industry that includes

medicines among Mexico’s middle- to

funding from BCFP. At least $15mn of

low-income population.

the loan is earmarked for sustainability

Neolpharma will also finance its

investments, which will contribute to

growth plan, which includes expanding

Neolpharma reducing its greenhouse

its production facilities.

gas emissions by 11 400t per year and

Juan Gonzalo Flores, country

to the implementation of climate change

manager of IFC México, says: “Budget

mitigation projects, such as waste heat

constraints have increased due to

recovery for efficient co-generation

COVID-19 and other macroeconomic

in production sites, rooftop solar

factors. By financing Neolpharma’s

photovoltaic with battery storage and

expansion plan, IFC will contribute

green buildings certified under Excellence

to increasing access to and the

in Design for Greater Efficiencies (EDGE).

affordability of high-quality medicines

Neolpharma will be one of the

in Mexico and the LAC Region in

first EDGE certified pharmaceutical

important therapeutic areas such

companies worldwide.

"Globally, 100mn people fall below the poverty line every year as a result of healthcare costs"

NEWS

Ghanaian health-tech startup Redbird wins seed funding The Imperial Innovation Venture Fund,

and patients can view the details of those test

a partnership with Newtown Partners,

results at any time.

together with Johnson & Johnson

“We’re thrilled to work with Johnson &

Foundation, participated in a $1.5mn seed

Johnson Impact Ventures and Newtown

round for Ghana-based health tech startup,

Partners. Newtown and Imperial’s expertise in

Redbird, bringing the total funding raised to

African supply chains, coupled with Johnson

date to $2mn.

& Johnson’s long-standing commitment

The Redbird team

to improve care for the most vulnerable

decentralised business model that enables

manage their health via five-minute medical

populations through technology, create a strong

rapid diagnostic testing at the point of primary

tests offered by community pharmacies.

support for our vision of revolutionising health

care in community pharmacies in Ghana.

Patients can also access their digital health

monitoring,” says Beattie.

Redbird’s digital health record platform has

Redbird enables patients in Ghana to easily

records from anywhere via Redbird’s app.

Today, patients can go to any Redbird partner

the potential to drive significant value to the

pharmacy – of which there are over 350 in Ghana

broader healthcare value chain and is a vital

CEO, Patrick Beattie, the future of disease

– and register for the platform. They can then

step toward improving healthcare outcomes in

burden in Africa will be chronic, with diseases

access any of 10 available rapid tests, which are

Africa. We look forward to supporting the team

such as diabetes projected to grow by 156%

performed instantly at a partner pharmacy, and

as they prove out their business model and

over the next 25 years. For patients and

receive results within minutes. These results are

scale across the African continent.”

healthcare professionals to properly track

saved to their personal Redbird health record,

and manage chronic illnesses, healthcare

which can be accessed by the patients via the app

operations within Ghana and to expand to

needs to be decentralised and much more

or at any partner pharmacy. The team also aims

new markets.

convenient, with the ability for a patient’s

to provide doctors with access to these health

health information to follow them wherever

records under patients’ consent, providing a

August 2018 and was accepted into the

they go. Redbird aims to facilitate the growth

more complete picture of a patient’s history.

Alchemist Accelerator in Silicon Valley as part

According to Redbird co-founder and

of such a system by enabling easy access to convenient testing and ensuring doctors

Llew Claasen, managing partner of Newtown Partners notes: “We’re excited about Redbird’s

The funding will be used to grow Redbird’s

Redbird officially launched in Ghana in

of the April 2018 cohort, as well as to Founders Factory Africa in April 2020.

Achieve fast and accurate filling with Gemü’s new servoDrive of ±0.5% at a filling weight of 1g. The test

Rotary lobe pumps are often used in hygienic

was performed with water and a continuous

and aseptic filling processes. Featuring Gemü’s

pressure of 0.3 bar. The results showed that the

servoDrive actuator design, the Gemü F60

requisite accuracy was delivered over multiple

servoDrive filling valve is predestined for

measurement series. Further tests with various

the fast and precise filling of small volumes

small volumes also confirmed the filling accuracy.

(approximately 1mℓ to 100mℓ), for industries

A filling cycle time of significantly less

such as pharmaceutical manufacturing.

than one second could be achieved with all fill

This filling valve, developed by Gemü – a

volumes. The Gemü F60 servoDrive allows

valve specialist based in Ingelfingen, Germany – significantly improves the speed of filling processes, enhances flexibility and extends design (service) life.

The specialist’s servoDrive actuator design excels through its high traverse speed, excellent positioning accuracy and rapid control. The low-

faster filling cycles than the rotary lobe pumps

Test results have shown the Gemü F60 servoDrive fills small volumes of pharma products fast and accurately

currently often used in the industry. In addition, various filling volumes can be implemented

achieve 50 to 100mn cycle duties, depending on the application.

without having to modify the filling plunger.

Alongside the filling of pharmaceutical products, the F60 servoDrive is suitable for all filling

An accuracy test was performed with the

loss, brushless and robust servo motors made

Gemü F60 servoDrive for filling with the smallest

from stainless steel satisfy the requirements

quantities. The aim here was to achieve the

of electrical protection class IP69K and can

accuracy required when filling pharmaceuticals

applications that require accuracy, speed and hygiene, such as foodstuffs or battery and chemical filling.

Manufacturer of self-adhesive labels, supply printers, barcode scanners and anything related to the labelling and packaging industry.

010 007 2350 | sales@printalabel.co.za www.printalabel.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2021

7

NEWS

Silab quadruples its biotechnology production capacity

Symrise helps to forge a

gender equal world

First launched in 2015, Silab is commissioning a second production line for unicellular organisms on the single site where it operates its biotechnologies production unit (UPB).

Given the success of its natural active ingredients from microorganisms, the company has decided to build a second production line for the large-scale culture of yeast, microalgae and bacteria. A 15 000ℓ principal bioreactor has been integrated on site, giving Silab the means to quadruple its annual production of the highly value adding natural raw materials used to manufacture its active ingredients.

These microorganisms represent a powerful lever of innovation. Brigitte Closs-Gonthier, Silab’s deputy general manager for innovation, comments: “They have immense potential, due to their diversity and incredible metabolism. With this new line, we now have the means to further diversify our production of microorganisms and to master their fascinating properties, providing access to some unique molecules of interest.”

The integrated manufacture of unicellular organisms is also a key strategic area of focus in line with the company’s strongly proclaimed value of independence.

Xavier Gaillard, deputy general manager for strategy, explains: “This €5mn capacity investment is part of a wider €30mn investment programme, which has been implemented over three years. It stems from our desire to offer the cosmetic and dermo-cosmetic markets ever more innovative solutions, while responding to current challenges around security, traceability and sustainability of sourcing.”

The new industrial equipment is automated and offers technicians excellent ergonomics, much like the other industrial technology in operation at the plant. The automation supports Silab’s plans to increase its share of natural active ingredients from microorganisms, which currently represent 20% of its catalogue.

Silab’s portfolio of natural actives ingredients and cosmetic technologies are available in South Africa from Meganede.

Workplace gender equality is an ongoing journey for Symrise

In line with the #ChooseToChallenge

be female was already almost reached

theme of International Women’s

by the end of 2016 (38.3%).

Day, celebrated worldwide on 8

serving roughly 160 countries and in

helping to forge a gender equal world.

doing business with other companies in

The global producer of inspiring

other countries, with different cultures

fragrance, flavour, natural nutrition

and customs, it’s vital that Symrise has

and cosmetic ingredients celebrates

a common basis from which to work.

women’s achievements, raises

This is where the company’s Code

awareness against bias and takes

of Conduct comes in: it is one of the

action for equality.

most important elements of Symrise’s

Symrise sources, produces,

has been key to enabling the company

all over the world. Its expansive and

to build its positive reputation with all

international operations are reflected in

the different people and businesses it

the people employed by the company.

works with.

APRIL 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

In 2017, Symrise signed the Women’s

cultural, religious, gender and age

Empowerment Principles, a joint

backgrounds of its employees – “we

initiative of the organisation UN Women

want our products to be for all people,

and the United Nations Global Compact,

created by a diverse workforce,” the

which aims to raise awareness of the

company says.

issue of promoting and empowering

Achieving true diversity and equality

8

group-wide compliance programme and

manufactures and markets its products

Symrise thrives on the diverse ethnic,

The new principal bioreactor has significantly increased Silab’s annual production of yeast, microalgae and bacteria to manufacture natural active ingredients

With almost 10 665 employees

March, Symrise is playing its part in

women in companies. With this move,

as a company means having the

Symrise is sending a clear message

systems in place to make its ambitions

worldwide throughout its organisation

a reality. It is an ongoing journey for

that it stands for gender equality in the

Symrise, which is proud of its progress

workplace. Like Symrise, all businesses

to date. For example, the company’s

stand to benefit from driving greater

2020 target for 40% of its workforce to

equality for women.

What’s on in 2021

DIARY

May

Pure Beauty Global Awards 2021 12 May Virtual event www.purebeautyglobalawards.com

2021 SUBSCRIPTION FORM

Tunisia Spa Expo 2021 21 to 30 May Tunis, Tunisia www.fkram.com.tn

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Korea Chem 2021 25 to 28 May Korea Exhibition Centre, South Korea www.koreachem.org

Food Review Pharmaceutical

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R905

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Beautyworld Saudi Arabia 6 to 8 June (new dates) Riyadh, Saudi Arabia https://bit.ly/3prm3Q1

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MakeUp in Paris 17 to 18 June (new dates) Paris, France www.makeup-in-paris.com/en

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in-cosmetics Korea 14 to 16 July (new dates) Seoul, Korea www.korea.in-cosmetics.com

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International rates available on request.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2021

9

INDUSTRY TALK

Positive beauty vision and strategy challenges narrow ideals

In South Africa, designing products that cater to all people is recognised as one of the most pressing challenges that the beauty and personal care industry should address. In response, Unilever has announced it will adopt a clearer mission surrounding inclusive beauty standards. This forms part of the multinational’s positive beauty vision and strategy.

T

he move will see Unilever eliminate the word ‘normal’ from the packaging and advertising of all its beauty and personal care (BPC) brands. It is one of many steps that the multinational is taking to challenge narrow beauty ideals and to work towards helping to end discrimination and advocate for a more inclusive vision of beauty.

The decision comes after global research into people’s experiences of the beauty industry revealed that many groups are left feeling inadequate or marginalised by impossible standards they experience on a daily basis.

Commissioned by Unilever, the 10 000-person study conducted across nine countries, including in South Africa, found that: • despite the majority of people in South Africa describing the industry as ‘innovative’ (70%) and ‘creative’ (60%), four in 10 people also describe it as ‘only for some’ (39%)

10

APRIL 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

• more than two in three people in South Africa (67%) agree that the beauty and personal care industry makes certain people feel excluded • the beauty industry is seen as contributing to the spread of narrow beauty ideals and seven in 10 (71%) think that it pressurises people into thinking they need to look a certain way • having clear skin, a nice smile, skin that is soft, an overall fair complexion and smelling nice are some of the most pressing concerns from from a South African beauty and personal care standpoint • other societal and cultural norms include the need to be both accomplished professionally and physically (66%) and to be pure and feminine (60%) • the majority of people in South Africa agree that the beauty and personal care industry still has some way to go in representing people of various body types (77%), from different age groups (75%), different ethnicities (73%), and people from the LGBTQIA+ community (61%) • one in two people in South Africa (49% for skin and 52% for hair)

think that labels on beauty products contribute to narrow beauty ideals • seven in 10 people (71%) think that using non-inclusive beauty product packaging and non-inclusive advertising has a negative impact on people. This is especially pronounced for the younger age groups, rising to eight in 10% (80%) for those aged between 18 and 35 compared to 52% for those older than 55.

LOCAL BRANDS WITH A PURPOSE Positive beauty will champion a new era of beauty which not only does less harm but also more good for people and the planet. It sets out several progressive commitments and actions for Unilever’s beauty and personal care brands, including Dove and Lifebuoy.

“Over the years Dove has seen many partnerships that have assisted the brand in bringing the narrative around ‘positive beauty’ to the South African consumer.

This was done through various campaigns that have celebrated all types of beauty,” says Keegan Alicks, beauty and personal care category director, Southern Africa.

“Lifebuoy is the original brand with purpose and thus perfectly positioned to support this movement of positive beauty and to driving awareness in South Africa. One of the pillars of positive beauty is through the movement’s ‘people positive’ approach and the aim to improve health and wellbeing for all.

“Lifebuoy has been working together with the Department of Basic Education for a number of years to instil proper handwashing practices. To date, it has reached over 3mn grade 1 learners through the National Schools Hygiene and Sanitation Programme. In 2020, the programme was expanded from 15 000 schools to 23 000 schools with an annual reach of over 12mn learners, from grade R to matric.”

INDUSTRY TALK TRANSFORMATION IN FORMULATION DESIGN Using Unilever’s world-class innovation and technology, positive beauty will also help to drive transformation in how products are designed and formulated so that they not only deliver a superior product experience, but also tap into consumer trends.

Sunny Jain, president of beauty and personal care, says: “With 1bn people using our beauty and personal care products every day, and even more seeing our advertising, our brands have the power to make a real difference in people’s lives. As part of this, we are committed to tackling harmful norms and stereotypes and shaping a broader, far more inclusive definition of beauty. We know that removing ‘normal’ from our products and packaging will not fix the problem alone, but it is an important step forward.”

In addition to this, Unilever will not digitally alter a person’s body shape, size, proportion or skin colour in its brand advertising and will increase the number of advertisements portraying people from diverse groups who are under-represented.

Positive beauty will also accelerate Unilever’s science and technology programmes and innovation partnerships, driving the continued transformation of how its products are designed and formulated to become more people- and planet-positive.

This includes developing tailored products to serve the diverse needs of people around the world, including South Africa, and delivering real and meaningful consumer benefits backed by cutting-edge science. Innovation will also advance the use of more natural, biodegradable and regenerative ingredients – alongside continued packaging innovations that use less, better or no plastic.

DRIVING POSITIVE CHANGE Unilever’s decision to remove the word ‘normal’ from its packaging and advertising is just one action within the set of three commitments the multinational has made to create real and measurable impact. These include: 1. Taking action through its brands to improve health and wellbeing and advance equity and inclusion – reaching 1bn people

Did you know?

In 2020, Unilever’s brands that are perceived as more purposeful grew more than twice as fast as the rest of its product portfolio. The company’s research supports this trend, with the majority of people (69%) saying they will recommend a beauty brand to their friends and family if it caters to a wide range of skin and hair types, while half of respondents said they would pay more for these products.

per year by 2030. The focus will be on helping to end discrimination in beauty and to champion inclusion, by challenging narrow beauty ideals and building a more inclusive portfolio of products.

The company is committed to driving gender equity by stepping up brand programmes, advocating to challenge the status quo and #unstereotyping advertising. It also aims to improve health and wellbeing through existing educational initiatives in handwashing and oral hygiene and expanding focus into new areas, including physical health and mental wellbeing.

2. Helping to protect and regenerate 1.5mn hectares of land, forests and oceans by 2030, which is more land than is required to grow the renewable ingredients in Unilever’s beauty and personal care products.

3. Supporting a global ban on animal testing for cosmetics by 2023, working alongside lawmakers, animal protection organisations and like-minded companies.

A total of 23 Unilever beauty and personal care brands are now PETA approved, with more working towards certification.

At the heart of the delivery of these commitments will be Unilever’s beauty and personal care brands, many of which have a track record of delivering impactful programmes and purpose-led growth. More of its beauty and personal care brands will join the likes of Dove, Lifebuoy, Vaseline and Sunsilk by taking action against social and environmental challenges and advocating for the evolution of norms, policies and laws.

Sarah Degnan Kambou, president of the International Centre for Research on Women, says: “Every day, we see and hear messages about how to ‘fit in’ and how to be included in very narrow definitions of what is ‘normal’. In order to champion equality, we need to challenge these restrictive ‘norms’ and create societies and communities that celebrate diversity – and the unique qualities and ideas that

each person brings. Beauty is no exception. We look forward to seeing Unilever advance these commitments and hold themselves to the high standards they have set out before them.” •

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TRENDS & OPINIONS

Create positive online shopping experiences Online retailers continue to face challenges which undermine the customer experience.

A 2020 study by BMi Research evaluating how consumers experience online shopping has highlighted the challenges that online retailers continue to face which include ensuring sufficient stock, transaction and delivery issues and unclear refund practices.

S

outh Africa’s e-commerce market has traditionally lagged behind global trends. Yet the COVID-19 pandemic has accelerated the growth of online shopping in South Africa with more consumers willing to try it. According to Nielsen, online shopping has increased by 9% in the past year to 44%. In order to capitalise on this trend, a growing number of retailers have introduced an e-commerce offering with varying degrees of success.

The BMi Research study surveyed six online e-commerce stores with each store evaluated by 10 experienced online mystery shoppers. The study forms part of the BMi Research’s launch of an online customer experience solution that measures and provides insights to help companies improve the online shopping experience of their customer. It will be one of the first service

providers to launch an online customer experience solution in the country.

REGISTRATION AND DELIVERY PROCESSES With BMi Research’s CX Online tool, traditional mystery shopping solutions focused on in-store evaluations are taken a logical step further, given the accelerated penetration of e-commerce and online shopping. It measures the overall experience from the perspective of the online customer, including the online shopping experience, the transaction process and the delivery experience, allowing retailers to adapt their offering in order to ensure an optimal customer experience.

“Same day delivery is key to remaining competitive in the online shopping space,” says Jenni-Ruth Coggin, general manager for

consumer behaviour and business insights at BMi Research. “To be successful online platforms need to meet the expectations of customers. Consumers that have a disappointing online experience tend not to give those retailers or brands a second chance which is why it is so important to ensure a positive overall experience each and every time.”

Completing the registration process could also be a barrier for new shoppers as this is their first experience of the brand in an online shopping environment.

“When it comes to online shopping first experiences count,” says Coggin. “Registration should be as simple as possible, both to lower

Jenni-Ruth Coggin, general manager for consumer behaviour and business insights at BMi Research

"Same day delivery is key to remaining competitive in the online shopping space" 12

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TRENDS & OPINIONS

the barrier to entry and to make the barrier lower than the next competitor.”

Encouragingly, most shoppers found the registration process easy to moderately easy to navigate, while 60% of shoppers found the websites of the e-retailers surveyed easy to navigate.

WHAT MAKES OR BREAKS THE EXPERIENCE In terms of the visual appeal of websites and how engaging and user friendly they are, shoppers reported that there was room for improvement in the pharmacy sector. Only 70% of shoppers on pharmacy and retail sites were shown the correct product after a search, indicating that this is an area that needs to be addressed.

While overall promotional offers were easy for shoppers to find, only 55% of promotional items were in stock. A third of shoppers on retail sites were informed that items were out of stock only as they were checking out.

“Ideally, this information should be given during the shopping process,” says Coggin.

All the online shopping sites reviewed do well at communicating payment options and

order confirmations. However, the study found that all categories need to provide shoppers with more assurances that their transactions are safe and secure with email and sms communication that is sent immediately at payment.

Coggin adds that once the order is placed and paid for, trust in the online shopping experience is either built or lost at the point of delivery.

However, the study revealed that online delivery booking systems are weak with just over a third of respondents not receiving their delivery at the arranged date and time, while 20% did not receive the correct items they had ordered.

There also appears to be confusion over the refund process for products missing from the order. Ultimately, only 50% of shoppers found the overall delivery experience to be ‘excellent’.

McElwee was the guest speaker at the launch of CX Online. He is an e-commerce expert with more than 18 years of experience in emerging and developed markets across multiple channels.

“Succeeding in the online space is very different to succeeding offline in traditional brick and mortar spaces,” he added. “The reality is that online shopping utilises different areas and has different constraints to an offline shopping environment. Not only does it have eyeball constraints given that search narrows the number of items seen – it has resource constraints and size relativity constraints.”

Online, he concluded, is significantly more complex than anticipated, requiring businesses to get all three components right: convenience; price; and speed of delivery. The most important is to test your online offering in order to refine and improve the online shopping experience. •

THE

Buyer’sguide ONLINE VERSUS TRADITIONAL RETAIL

According to Dean McElwee, the integrated commercial lead, eCommerce for Europe at The Kellogg Company, speed is of the essence when it comes to online shopping.

“The customer wants to get the product as soon as possible so the whole online process needs to be sped up,” he says.

2017/2018

CX Online – www.bmi.co.za/cx-online

THE

Buyer’sguide

2020/2021

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry

Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1

2018/05/07 3:09 PM

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ETHNIC CARE

Bentonite clay – nature’s beautiful gift

Bentonite clay, as it is commonly known, belongs to the family of smectite clays. To some people bentonite is known as montmorillonite, hectorite or saponite, and to others in the personal care and pharma industries as magnesium aluminium silicate. But what do all these variants have in common? And how do we know which option is best for a face mask, cream or an oral suspension?

T

Did you know?

Bentonite clay can be used in virtually all topical emulsions and suspensions, as well as powder form and solid products like soap bars and deodorant sticks. It’s no wonder that an analysis

by Facebook for Business identified bentonite as a top trending ingredient for personal care and cosmetics in 2020. This distinction gives credibility to bentonite clay’s natural origins and formula multitasking properties. Simply put, bentonite clay is nature’s beautiful gift to us.

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o better understand smectite clays, it’s best to start at the beginning. Most smectite clay deposits were formed some 120 million years ago during the Cretaceous period of the Mesozoic era, when winds blew volcanic ashes into the shallow inland seas.

The mixture of volcanic ash and decomposing flora and fauna in the inland sea water all contributed to the formation of a mineral we now recognise as bentonite clay.

While each deposit of smectite clay worldwide has a similar origin, each has a unique mineral composition. The names given to each type of smectite clay have simple sources – most names come from the place where the clay in question was first identified and its characteristics catalogued. When it comes to bentonite, the name hails from Fort Benton in the State of Wyoming (USA); montmorillonite originates from Montmorillon in France; hectorite was named after

the city Hector near San Bernardino in California (USA); and saponite was first described in 1840 by Lars Fredrik Svanberg, a Swedish chemist and mineralogist.

Although all types of smectite clay have some level of magnesium silicate and aluminium silicate in their deposits, the amount is not equal. For example, montmorillonite is classified as aluminium silicate-based, and saponite is classified as magnesium silicatebased. Because in their respective crystal lattice structures, one metal oxide is more dominant than the other.

When you blend them together, you get magnesium aluminium silicate, which is where Vanderbilt Minerals, LLCs’ Veegum product originates.

UNIQUE MINERALOGICAL PROPERTIES Bentonite clay has been used for centuries for its healing and therapeutic purposes, but mostly as a natural cleanser and skin softener.

The cleansing property is most

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likely due to the large surface area of an otherwise very small platelet size, which has a strong negative charge on both sides of the platelet faces. As a result, it is physically able to attract and bind dirt particles, skin oil and other impurities.

The softening effect might be directly associated with the various minerals and organic matter present in the soil when smectite clays were formed.

Although all smectite clays have common characteristics, their function and performance in waterbased formulations depend on the unique mineralogical properties of the ores used to produce them, as well as the method used to refine them, so that they can provide useful rheological properties.

The 3D physical colloidal structure, formed by the clays when hydrated in water, is possible due to the attraction of the negatively charged platelet faces of the clay to slightly positive charges on platelet edges.

This forms a ‘house of cards’ that keeps the emulsion stable (o/w and w/o) and solids suspended uniformly.

The INCI name does not guarantee that two versions of ingredients called magnesium aluminium silicate or bentonite clay from different suppliers are the same in their properties and performance. One needs to carefully select the supplier and become familiar with their type of minerals to feel comfortable using the ingredient.

so the properties of Veegum and Vanatural are as unique as individual smectite clay types themselves. Since no harsh chemicals or additives are used during the beneficiating process, just clean water technology, these products are as pure as nature made them.

They disperse easily, hydrate rapidly and perform constantly to: • stabilise emulsions against separation, particularly at elevated temperatures • stabilise suspensions against particle setting and hard packing • provide thickening and absorptive properties in face, hair and body masks • have high electrolyte and surfactant compatibility

"The properties of Veegum and Vanatural are as unique as individual smectite clay types themselves"

HIGHLY BENEFICIAL, MULTIFUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS Today, consumers are looking for fewer chemicals and more natural ingredients in their everyday-use cosmetics. This is not an easy task for formulators to accomplish.

Keeping the rheology properties in check while ensuring the formula stability without compromising on aesthetics is already difficult, not to mention labelling the formulation ‘natural’. This was the reason formulators started looking for multifunctional natural ingredients that would fulfil these requirements.

While most ingredients used in personal care formulations have one or another function, smectite clays such as Veegum (INCI: Magnesium Aluminum Silicate) or Vanatural (INCI: Bentonite Clay) have the desired properties to be truly multifunctional ingredients. Both lines of products contain blends of montmorillonite and saponite ores,

• provide a silky, tack-free feel in topical preparations • be synergistic with common thickeners such as xanthan gum, CMC, acrylates and carbomers • reduce the sticky feel of gums and polymers • be compatible with anionic and nonionic ingredients used in personal care formulations.

NATURAL, ECO-FRIENDLY AND WATERLESS FORMULATIONS Vanatural bentonite clay is perfectly suited for use in all-natural and organic-labelled personal care and baby products. Vanatural and Vanatural XGB (INCI: Bentonite Clay and Xanthan Gum) are Cosmos and Ecocert approved. Vanatural MC is a microcontrolled grade for those who like the INCI name bentonite clay but prefer a controlled bacterium count in their raw materials.

Bentonite clays from Vanderbilt Minerals, LLC are recommended for use in skin renewal creams, hydrator lotions, high-SPF sunscreens, baby products, foundation makeup, hair treatments, face masks, body washes and shampoos, as well as in liquid and solid soaps and trendy shampoo bars.

Vanatural bentonite clay enables the formulation of consumer-friendly, justadd-water personal care products. These are reconstitutable blends of powder-form ingredients made functional simply by adding a small amount of water or another liquid just prior to use. These formulations are great for travelling without the excess weight of water.

No preservatives are needed and their shelf life is virtually unlimited. In reconstitutable products, Vanatural swells quickly, imparting a creamy texture. It also stabilises the foam structure in cleansing products and serves as film-forming binder and an absorbent in facial masks.

For more information on how smectite clays work and how to use them, please visit the Vanderbilt Minerals, LLC website.

Access to all literature, videos and prototype formulations is free and all documents are download-ready. For local assistance, please contact the distributor for South Africa, IMCD. • VANATURAL and VEEGUM are registered trademarks of Vanderbilt Minerals, LLC.

IMCD – www.imcdgroup.com Vanderbilt Minerals, LLC – www.vanderbiltminerals.com

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ETHNIC CARE

The natural efficacy of jojoba oil is proven to

improve skin’s complexion Vantage answers the question why jojoba oil is such a popular ingredient for beauty products by reviewing a new set of studies that looks at the effect of jojoba oil in different applications, including skin, hair and lip care. The studies involved in vitro and in vivo testing and multiple consumer panels.

J

ojoba oil’s popularity is driven by its versatility in the cosmetics industry.

From skin care to makeup or hair care, there isn’t a single category where the natural oil cannot be found in significant proportions.

Considering that jojoba oil tends to be more

2. the pathogenic bacteria, whose proliferation tends to negatively impact our skin health.

Commensal and pathogenic bacteria generally co-exist in a balanced manner. But multiple factors are likely to break the delicate balance

expensive than most mainstream oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil or castor oil, it begs the question: why are formulators keen on using it in so many formulations?

found in a healthy microbiome: diet; genetic predisposition; age; hygiene and lifestyle are only some of them. Situations where pathogenic bacteria overwhelm commensal bacteria are usually associated with drier and more sensitised skin conditions.

The technical team at Vantage designed an in vitro experiment where Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus were selected and cultivated to respectively represent commensal and pathogenic bacteria. After an initial incubation period of 18 hours followed by a 48-hour treatment period with jojoba oil, the number of bacteria was measured via photometry (see Figure 1).

The measurements reveal that jojoba oil favours the growth of the commensal bacteria compared to the non-treated culture.

REBALANCING SKIN MICROBIOTA The skin is a complex and dynamic ecosystem that is inhabited by bacteria, archaea, fungi and viruses. These microbes are collectively referred to as the skin microbiome.

Consumers and formulators continue to recognise the importance of the microbiome to understand overall skin health. By promoting a healthy microbiome, cosmetic products can lead to a better, protected skin.

A large variety of skin conditions, ranging from acne to eczema, have been associated with changes in the skin microbiome.

Microbiologists tend to categorise our skin bacteria in two categories: 1. the commensal bacteria that live in harmony with our skin cells and biological cycles

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WHAT DOES IT MEAN FOR SKIN? Most people suffering from dry or unhealthy skin conditions are likely to have a microbiome characterised by an excessive pathogenic

Did you know?

In the satisfaction survey, 83% of the panellists agreed their skin looked smoother, 97% said their skin felt comfortable and 83% said their complexion was more even.

bacteria presence compared to commensal bacteria. By boosting the growth of ‘good’ bacteria, jojoba oil can contribute to rebalancing the skin microbiome.

Additional gene expression studies, not detailed in this article, further confirmed the positive effect of jojoba oil on skin radiance and skin comfort.

FROM THE MICROBIOME TO SKIN’S COMPLEXION To confirm the efficacy of jojoba oil on consumers’ skin, the team worked with an independent testing facility, which recruited a 60-person panel, of both men and women.

For this blind study, the volunteers were split in two groups. One group was instructed to apply a 10% jojoba oil o/w formulation twice daily, while the other group was given a placebo formulation, where jojoba oil was replaced by caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Over the course of four weeks, several instrumental measurements were made at 14 and 28 days to assess the quantity of sebum on the surface of the skin and skin radiance. The results are shown in Figure 2 A and B. The jojoba oil-based regimen led to a 25% decrease of sebum content. Overall, skin radiance increased by 24%. The results demonstrated statistical significance. The jojoba oil-based formulation outperformed the caprylic/capric triglyceride for all measured parameters, confirming the positive effect of the natural oil over other traditional emollients.

The clinical evaluations were concluded with a satisfaction survey, where panellists

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Figure 1: Results of the in vitro experiment

could score skin improvement attributes. Not only did most of the volunteers feel a significant and broad improvement of their skin health, they also perceived it very quickly, after only two weeks of use.

CONCLUSION For hundreds of years, jojoba oil has been a part of Native American traditional medicine. Over the past decade, the oil has found its way into some of the most effective skin care treatments. These studies shed some new light on the activity of the desert oil and confirm the existing link between the rebalancing of skin microbiome and the visible skin improvement triggered by using jojoba oil in a face care routine. •

+40%

Dry combing improvement

Figure 2 A and B: Results of the blind study

+160%

+21%

Shine increase

ISO16128 - NOI

99.8%

Vantage South Africa – kim.maccallum@vantagegrp.com

Heat resistance

C

China IECIC 2015

VEGAN

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ETHNIC CARE

Transparency, safety and green sciences L’Oréal has committed to an important transformation of its research and innovation by adopting a green sciences’ approach. This forms part of its permanent quest to offer consumers products that are ever more effective, safe and respectful to the environment.

T

his move by the global beauty giant comes at a time when protecting the planet is an absolute necessity and as the COVID-19 pandemic is driving a heightened demand for products that are both good for health and safe for the environment. It is against this backdrop that L’Oréal is opening a new chapter in R&I by making nature a driving force in creating renewable alternatives to petroleumbased ingredients.

The group will draw on recent advances in green sciences to enable the sustainable cultivation of ingredients and extract the best that nature has to offer through cutting-edge technological processes. Already by 2020, 80% of the group’s raw materials are easily biodegradable, 59% are renewable and 34% are natural or of natural origin. A further 29% of the ingredients used in L’Oréal formulas have been developed according to the principles of Green Chemistry.¹ According to Nicolas Hieronimus, L’Oréal deputy chief executive officer, in charge of divisions: “With green sciences we are entering a new chapter for L’Oréal research and innovation, which has been a key driving force within the company since its creation.

Our ambition is that by 2030 we will be able to offer women and men worldwide increasingly effective and safe cosmetics that respect the environment.”

To achieve this transition, L’Oréal has rallied its full range of resources in green sciences, including recent advances in agronomics, together with new developments in biotechnology, green chemistry, formulation science and modelling tools. The group is also building a range of strategic partnerships with universities, start-ups and its own raw material suppliers.

Barbara Lavernos, chief research, innovation and technology officer of L’Oréal,

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adds: “Thanks to green sciences we are able to take up this ambitious scientific and technical challenge. This virtuous, circular economy-based approach will allow us to achieve new levels of performance and discover unprecedented cosmetic benefits without compromising on quality or safety, in the service of beauty that is respectful of the planet.”

EVER-GREATER TRANSPARENCY The group remains committed to transparency. L’Oréal continues to launch new initiatives to further improve information and dialogue with consumers, empowering them to make choices that reflect their values.

HOW DO CONSUMERS DEFINE TRANSPARENCY During the L’Oréal Transparency Summit, which took place on 4 March, Julia Sarhy, L’Oréal’s global consumer insight director gave an overview of the shift in consumers’ expectations in 2021. In terms of how they define transparency: • 59% define it as openness • 53% as clarity • 49% say honesty • 26% authenticity • 23% integrity • 19% communication.

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Barbara Lavernos, L’Oréal’s chief research, innovation and technology officer

assess product safety. L’Oréal stopped testing its products on animals in 1989, 14 years before such practices were outlawed.

The group has also taken steps to raise awareness of these alternative methods in China, where the authorities put a stop to animal testing for domestically produced ‘non-functional’ cosmetics in 2014.

Incremental progress is ongoing. This year, the Chinese government also removed its requirement that foreign imports of ‘non-functional’ cosmetics be tested on animals, subject to a certificate proving compliance with good manufacturing practices.

L’Oréal also continues to improve the environmental profile of its formulas. In 1995, it set up a research laboratory to measure and model the impact of its products on ecosystems (both water and soil) and biodiversity. As part of its L’Oréal for the Future programme, by 2030 the group aims to ensure that 95% of its ingredients are bio-sourced, derived from abundant minerals or circular processes, with 100% of its formulas assessed using its environmental test platform to ensure they do no harm the diversity of coastal and freshwater aquatic ecosystems. • REFERENCE: 1. Green chemistry, sometimes known as sustainable chemistry, is a concept developed in the US in 1998 by two chemists, Paul Anastas and John Warner. It draws on 12 principles based on sustainability values to practice a type of chemistry that respects the social, environmental and economic balance of the environment in which it is used.

Green chemistry is part of green sciences in the sense that it ensures a sustainable transformation of biomass into ingredients.

L’Oréal pursues this pledge to transparency via the group’s ‘inside our products’ website. Launched in March 2019, the site answers questions from the public about the ingredients used in formulas and the composition of its products. The platform covers nearly 1 000 listed ingredients and is now available across 45 countries in eight languages.

Built on scientific advances, this content is being rolled out incrementally across the websites of leading brands within the group, including L’Oréal Paris, Garnier, La Roche-Posay, Maybelline, Redken, Essie, Kérastase and Yves Saint Laurent.

In June 2020, it launched an information campaign highlighting the environmental and social impact of cosmetic products as part of the L’Oréal for the Future programme. The initiative is being deployed around the globe in conjunction with Garnier and will gradually encompass all group brands.

Last month, a drive to raise awareness of the ‘inside our products’ initiative was rolled out on social media platforms such as Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, LinkedIn and YouTube in some 20 countries, giving consumers a chance to engage with researchers. A pilot project hosted in France in January 2021 led to fruitful exchanges with internet users.

Organic Raw and Refined Shea Butter Avocado Butter Organic Grape Seed Oil Organic Castor oil Hydrolysed Wheat Protein Olivem 1000, 900 & 300 Rhassoul & Bentonite clays BTMS

Natural Hair Care Ingredients www.nauticaorganics.com 083 266 2657

CONTINUOUS SAFETY IMPROVEMENTS At the heart of the commitments made by L’Oréal is the safety and potential environmental impact of its products.

The group has pioneered alternatives to animal testing by creating reconstructed skin models to

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COMPANY FOCUS

New premises sparks a process of reinvention for Kirsch Pharma Our world is being reinvented as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic. The economic upheaval has left individuals, families, businesses, the workplace and our planet forever changed. Even successful businesses like Kirsch Pharma South Africa have needed to reinvent themselves. In this instance, change was required in the form of better premises with a new, polished approach. By Abby Vorster

I

n order to make a lasting change within the business, Kirsch Pharma South Africa’s managing director, Hermann Broschk took significant steps in 2020 to facilitate the reinvention process. Earlier this year, on 26 March, the company relocated to beautiful new premises in the JT Ross Park: Plumbago, which is situated on either side of the R21 in Kempton Park, Gauteng. The park incorporates upmarket, contemporary design basics for logistics warehouses and allows occupants opportunities for growth.

Constructed with wide roads and ample space for the circulation for trucks, Kirsch Pharma South Africa joins several large international corporate distribution centres that have chosen to locate their facilities and regional head office operations at the business park.

The company’s state-of-the-art premises consists of a 400m² corporate office and 3 500m² temperature-controlled warehouse designed to maximise the height to cater for extra pallet space within the warehouse, with deep yards to accommodate super link trucks.

" We have never lost sight of our servicedelivery mindset"

A MODERN SPACE WITH TIMELESS FINISHES Kirsch Pharma South Africa commissioned the services of an interior designer to ensure the new office space and furnishings are both modern and timeless with clean lines and a unified look and feel.

Both in the downstairs and upstairs administrative areas are artworks by Loranda Fourie, a self-taught abstract painter, who works with mixed media on canvas and produces artworks of different sizes and themes. For this particular project for Kirsch Pharma South Africa, she was inspired by the need to create unique corporate pieces that showcase the company logo.

The bold, modern lines of Kirsch Pharma’s office buildings around the globe and the prominent use of red, black and grey were used as a starting point for the artworks, which were composed using a combination of acrylic paint, charcoal and pastels.

FLEXIBLE AND FOCUSED ON SERVICE DELIVERY In a contemporary world, time and again it’s proven important for businesses of all sizes to be flexible. If a business is too rigid, chances

The new home of Kirsch Pharma South Africa is situated in Kempton Park at JT Ross Park: Plumbago

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One of the artworks created by Loranda Fourie for Kirsch Pharma South Africa

are it could fail, especially when faced with adverse situations that require organisations to adapt rapidly to change.

It has been important to Broschk to create the change he wanted to see in the business, which continues to be a customer-orientated and solutions-focused company. As a result, the organisation has maintained its excellent reputation as a supplier throughout South Africa with its prominence also rapidly gaining ground in Africa.

“We have never lost sight of our service delivery mindset and continue to uphold our values that are pinned on ethics and honesty,” he comments.

Operating from a place of excellence is the norm for Kirsch Pharma South Africa, which specialises in supplying premium-quality raw materials and blends to the pharmaceutical, nutritional, biotechnology, veterinary and cosmetics industries. The company’s employees, through their dedication and expertise, ensure high-quality standards are met throughout the business. A continuation of these quality standards is highly evident throughout the new premises, which supports Broschk’s vision for ethical and honest operations and provides the perfect platform for Kirsch Pharma South Africa’s continued growth. • Kirsch Pharma South Africa – www.kirschpharma.com

PHARMA FOCUS: TECHNOLOGY

Online learning

proves crucial in pharma manufacturing COVID-19 has left its mark on training structures within the pharmaceutical industry. With dispersed workforces, no access to one-on-one training and remote or distanced working the norm, essential and critical workplace learning has taken a hit. Alex Bunting, I Holland marketing manager, explores the benefits online learning brings to the industry.

GETTING OUT OF A STICKY SITUATION Due to the difficult nature of pharmaceutical formulations and complications involved in the successful compression of solid dose forms, production can be challenging. It

T

he solid dose manufacturing sector has had to rethink traditional learning methods and change course to digitisation to keep employees informed and educated in processes and regulatory requirements.

Investment in e-learning is helping companies to sail the stormy seas of the

produce high quantities of quality tablets, both quickly and efficiently. Online learning is an effective solution.

For optimised manufacturing processes, the importance of skilled and well-trained operators, technicians, supervisors and managers is essential. Investing in learning and development provides

pandemic. Improving manufacturing skills within a company is critical to its success and key to continuous quality improvement.

Specially designed online training is providing vital professional development to ensure skills and knowledge are still on track and being utilised on the production floor.

several tangible benefits including reduced downtime, greater productivity and higher profits. Effective training will not only save on time and labour by recognising problems that could stop production before they happen, but also result in an informed and driven workforce.

Manufacturers should consider the technical expertise and skills gaps found within the workforce, as this can hugely impact on the bottom line. The introduction of technology-enabled learning is helping companies improve the capability of their staff and the sector is seeing huge growth in recent years, having increased by 900% since the year 2000. Its popularity is set to continue, particularly in the wake of the pandemic.

ONLINE LEARNING HELPS MEET TABLET DEMAND Thanks to its cost-effectiveness, ease of transportation, chemical stability and patient familiarity, the demand for solid oral dose continues to grow.

As the competition increases to manufacture mass-produced tablets, companies need to ensure staff understand the processes required to

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requires an understanding of all processes involved, from implementing the correct tablet design to knowing what tablet tool steel material and coating should be used to enhance the process. There should also be knowledge of how to quickly solve problems. Take sticking as an example - one of the most common problems during solid dose manufacturing.

Sticking occurs when particles of the tablet formulation adhere to the punch face.

It has a negative effect on the appearance of the tablet and can become so serious that production is interrupted. In extreme cases, the punches may have to be removed to be cleaned. This is disruptive, labour intensive, reduces the quantity produced and increases costs. It is therefore critical to understand how to resolve the issue quickly. If the operator is not familiar with the problem and how to resolve it, production will be severely affected. This makes training crucial to efficient tablet production.

WHY E-LEARNING IS BENEFICIAL E-learning is becoming a more practical option for productivity improvement, particularly to train people in new skill sets and updating knowledge. Although training may take place ‘on the job’, finding the time and the correct information can prove to be difficult. Work distancing rules must also now be factored in, making face-to-face learning problematic.

This has been addressed by many in the industry, including tablet tooling manufacturers. Learning programmes have been designed to combine comprehensive and flexible courses in a wide variety of disciplines. These have been specifically

PHARMA FOCUS: TECHNOLOGY

created to conveniently take place in the workplace or a home office.

Before investing in e-learning, it is important to check whether the programme is adaptable and includes all the learning resources, skill sets and levels required for everyone from a press operator to a plant manager. Also ensure that it includes the following key benefits for long-term learning: • Engagement – Modules should be short and clear, with engaging content. As tablet production includes many elements, training should be delivered in the form of infographics, videos and quizzes to enhance the learning experience. Modules that can be picked up and put down with ease will also help with engagement. If users are working from home, this style of training is important for continuation.

• Flexibility – A substantial benefit of online learning is its flexibility to support those in manufacturing who are looking to further understand tabletting - whether presses, compression tooling or the management of the entire process. E-learning can be integrated with in-house training packages and work alongside or boost skills learnt on the shop floor. Online training can also work around production schedules and does not take away from productivity. These platforms allow employees the flexibility to revisit key information when they need it.

• Productivity enhancement – Innovative equipment like the latest tablet press or enhanced tooling will go a long way in efficient production. It is important to remember that proficient training will also enhance overall equipment effectiveness.

If staff are skilled and understand how to run the production line competently and problem-solve confidently, then tablet manufacturing processes will be optimised.

• Economical – Tablet manufacturers must

produce tablets in the most cost-effective way, and this principle should also be applied when it comes to training staff.

E-learning provides an economical training solution that results in better performance and faster production. Saving time can save costs. For example, if training is required in tooling maintenance, trainees may have to wait several months to receive face-toface or seminar training from an expert.

E-learning can reduce employees’ learning time by as much as 60% when compared to traditional learning.

to broaden their skill set. For example, when looking to improve their knowledge on tablet compression tooling, look for modules that cover everything from the basic subjects like an ‘introduction to tablet tooling and terminology’ and ‘tooling maintenance’, to more advanced levels like ‘troubleshooting production problems’.

This allows employees of all ability levels to access the learning package and improve their expertise.

• Staff progression – E-learning can accommodate everyone from directorlevel to operators looking to improve their knowledge. Some platforms include newly developed courses designed with a hierarchical system, giving training managers and supervisors the ability to do a full audit by tracking and reporting employee development and certification. With a classified structure, courses can be used for comparison purposes across different departments, job roles, sites and countries.

ONLINE TRAINING IMPROVES TABLET PRODUCTION

• Long-term learning – A huge benefit of online platforms is the ease and speed with which they can be revised. New regulations, requirements and operating procedures are introduced within the pharmaceutical industry regularly, therefore any e-learning technology or resource should have the ability to incorporate these new updates and the latest industry guidelines.

• Multi-disciplined – It is important that the platform has the option to incorporate a wide variety of subjects, allowing staff

To meet market demands, quality tablets have to be produced quickly and costeffectively. This requires optimised tablet production. Reliance on equipment would be an oversight, as staff play a key role in efficient and effective manufacture. It is therefore essential that training takes place.

It would be a mistake to allow the upskilling of staff to slip, even in the current climate during the pandemic. Proficient and well-planned e-learning is an important element in efficient production processes. If a company has educated, well-trained and knowledgeable employees, it will have a direct impact on productivity. • I Holland – www.iholland.co.uk

TABLET MANUFACTURE E-LEARNING PROGRAMMES I Holland has launched an online learning platform that takes advantage of the materials developed in over 75 years of experience. The programme focuses on tablet compression tooling and offers professionals comprehensive and flexible courses in a wide variety of disciplines. The courses are designed for everyone from director-level to engineers and operators who are looking to improve their knowledge and they can be customised to individual company requirements. Visit tablettingscience.com/online-training to find out more about these e-learning programmes.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2021

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PHARMA FOCUS: TECHNOLOGY

Acquisition streamlines industry access to advanced processing solutions With the acquisition of the Spanish manufacturer, STE Tecpharm, Romaco is strengthening its position as a turnkey supplier of processing technologies. In particular, Tecpharm’s patented drum coaters will complement Romaco Innojet’s granulation and fluid bed technologies.

F

rom now on, Tecpharm will operate under the name Romaco Tecpharm.

The initial purchase sees Romaco acquire a 75% share of Tecpharm, which was previously owner-managed. The remaining 25% will be transferred subsequently.

The acquisition of Tecpharm will further strengthen Romaco’s processing business.

Tecpharm’s drum coaters, coupled with the company’s conventional granulation lines and Wurster fluid bed systems, perfectly complement the Romaco range for processing pharmaceutical solids.

“With the takeover of Tecpharm and its patented high-tech tablet coating machines, we can decisively expand our portfolio,” explains Jörg Pieper, CEO of Romaco Group.

“Tecpharm manufactures drum coaters that embody economic efficiency, reliability and batch flexibility – and therefore perfectly fit the products and quality standards of Innojet and Kilian. This new constellation creates valuable synergies, which we intend to leverage systematically in order to offer our customers state-of-the-art processing solutions, from one source and cast from one mould. Our processing laboratories will serve as important points of contact worldwide.”

The founders of Tecpharm, Pedro Cuadrado, Bárbara Jané and David Mateo

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COATING SYSTEMS AND LAB-SCALE TECHNOLOGY Tecpharm was founded by its managing director, David Mateo along with Bárbara Jané and Pedro Cuadrado in 2013 as a spin-off of the STE Group.

Jörg Pieper, CEO of the Romaco Group

successful global player will create major growth opportunities for Tecpharm.

Our high-quality products are unique and represent real added value for the Romaco

Group. The support we get from The company employs Romaco’s worldwide sales and around 30 people at its present service network will allow us to expand site in Rubí, Spain near Barcelona. the reach of these products enormously and Tecpharm’s core competencies as a supplier shall boost our sales accordingly. Moreover, of equipment to the pharmaceutical industry Romaco is a very decentralised organisation, comprise the development, assembly and which will ease our integration with our new marketing of coating systems for tablets. sister companies at eye level.”

In addition, the manufacturer provides various technologies for wet granulation on a PHARMA MACHINERY SPECIALIST laboratory and production scale.

This latest addition to the Romaco family Following the transaction, Tecpharm will takes the total number of production sites to operate as an independent, Spanish-based five in Germany, Italy and Spain. The European business unit of the Romaco Group. Romaco pharmaceutical machinery specialist covers Tecpharm will be run by the founder, Mateo. the entire process chain with technologies for “I regard the exit to Romaco as a milestone manufacturing, processing in our relatively young Did you know? and packing pharmaceutical company history,” More than 800 highly-skilled solids. The processing emphasises Mateo. “Our and committed Romaco segment will in future be integration into such a employees are dedicated to made up of the Romaco the development of future product technologies and to Innojet, Romaco Kilian and the continuous implementation Romaco Tecpharm product of internal improvement brands and the respective processes. Over 12 000 installations delivered by wet granulation, pellet Romaco are currently in use at coating, tableting and tablet manufacturers located in more coating technologies. than 180 countries worldwide.

“The acquisition of Tecpharm is a great chance for us to sharpen the product profiles of our processing brands,” says Pieper. “The aim is to establish Tecpharm as a dominant supplier of coating systems for tablets. Innojet will focus on granulating and coating fine solid particles.

Tecpharm’s complementary technologies in this area will be integrated into the Innojet portfolio. That way, we will be optimally positioned across the board.” • Romaco – www.romaco.com

Meet Ali

Contec supported his vision to create the very first cleanroom wipes made from recycled plastic bottles. Thanks to Ali, ReFIBE provides a sterile sustainable solution in a single-use world.

Small details.

Big difference.

Contec is a leading manufacturer of contamination control products for critical manufacturing environments worldwide. Our innovative wipes, mops and disinfectants are used across the globe to keep pharmaceutical, biotech, medical device, semi-conductor and electronics companies critically clean.

For more information on how plastic bottles destined for landfill can become sterile cleanroom wipes visit www.contecinc.com/eu/refibe Or, to request a sample please contact info@basan.co.za

contecinc.com/eu

basan South Africa (Pty) Ltd +27 10 594 0307 www.basan.co.za

HYGIENE & CLEANROOM PRODUCTION

Going green

in the cleanroom Implementing sustainable practices in critical and cleanroom manufacturing environments is challenging. There are high energy costs involved in running cleanrooms, plus it’s difficult to put the concept of ‘reduce, reuse and recycle’ into practice. But with Contec ReFIBE – a recycled polyester cleanroom wipe – manufacturers now have access to a sustainable solution in a singleuse world. By Karen Rossington and Amy Russ

T

he concept of reduce, reuse, recycle is critical to the future of our planet.

Much of the waste we generate is single-use plastic. Since the 1950s when plastic started to be used once and then thrown away, over 6.3bn tonnes of plastic waste has been generated.¹ Of this, only 20% is either recycled or incinerated, with the rest ending up in landfill or oceans.¹ Plastic Oceans International estimates that at least 8mn tonnes of plastic ends up in oceans each year.² Annually, 300mn tonnes of plastic are still being produced each year and more than 500bn plastic water bottles are produced and used. In the US in 2014, 57.3bn plastic water bottles were sold compared to the 3.8bn sold in 1996.² In the UK, an estimated 7.7bn plastic beverage bottles are used each year and 700 000 plastic bottles are littered daily.³ These plastic bottles have an estimated life span of 450 years.⁴ As a result of these statistics, companies have become more aware of their environmental impact, especially

multinationals, and are trying to incorporate sustainable business practices into their daily operations. Pharmaceutical companies are increasingly releasing public statements around sustainability with seven biopharmaceutical companies making the 2020 list of Corporate Knights’ 100 most sustainable corporations in the world. These include Sanofi, AstraZeneca, Takeda, Novo Nordisk, UCB, Merck and GSK.⁵

SUSTAINABILITY IN THE CLEANROOM Cleanrooms use consumable products that cannot be recycled because of the ingredients they contain or because they have been contaminated with hazardous materials. For example, protected trigger spray bottles can neither be manufactured from recycled materials nor be recycled.

One option cleanroom users could consider to reduce the amount of singleuse contamination control materials used is to launder and resterilise them. This is not a new concept; gowns and garments are regularly laundered and reused. However, there are risks associated with this option for wipes and mops used in highgrade areas.

The best practice for both wipes and mops in a cleanroom environment is to use single-use disposable products. This reduces the risk of cross contamination and ensures that contamination is physically removed from the cleanroom environment at the end of a session. However, many facilities are considering laundering and reusing mops to reduce costs and provide a more sustainable alternative to single-use disposable products.

Since disposable mops are made from new materials and follow a validated process, their performance and results are consistent and predictable. This remains constant even over a long period of time, as a new mop with the same parameters is used each time. Studies show that

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HYGIENE & CLEANROOM PRODUCTION

"Each pack of wipes prevents 35 plastic bottles from ending up in landfill or from polluting our oceans" the effect of relaundering a mop can lead to changes in its performance and quality over time due to inevitable degradation.⁶ The laundry process can also cause irreversible damage to the delicate structures of the wipe or mop. When evaluating a reusable mop, it is necessary to project the performance and quality over time to estimate the life cycle and related costs. As the actual quality, contamination profile and performance of reusable mops will change over time, such deviation could result in an unintended and potentially unacceptable risk to the customer’s environment and the product they produce.

FROM WASTE TO CLEANROOM WIPE Knitted cleanroom wipes present a new way to be sustainable in a cleanroom. These wipes are manufactured from polyester (polyethylene terephthalate – PET). Plastic beverage bottles are also made from PET while products made from rPET (recycled polyester from post-consumer plastic bottles) are becoming more prevalent in high-end clothing brands such as Patagonia, FatFace, Nike, O’Neil and Under Armour. So why not cleanroom wipes?

Contec’s new ReFIBE wipes are the first of their kind. Produced using recycled

REFIBE WIPES ARE PRODUCED IN FIVE SUSTAINABLE STEPS 1. Recycled plastic bottles are collected.

2. The bottles are chopped into flakes and cleaned.

3. The bottle flakes are melted, filtered and formed into chips.

4. The chips are melted and made into yarn.

5. The yarn is then knitted, cut and laundered to manufacture ReFIBE wipes.

plastic water bottles, these wipes are made from 100% knitted standard-weight polyester with heat-sealed edges. They are ideal for cleanroom environments, with the additional benefit that each pack of wipes prevents 35 plastic bottles from ending up in landfill or from polluting our oceans. So, a case of wipes prevents up to 840 bottles from contributing to environmental pollution.

Incorporating sustainability into the upstream wipe manufacturing process means ReFIBE wipes reliably provide a sustainable single-use option for critical environment manufacturers without jeopardising quality or performance.

The wipes are exceptionally clean, low in releasable particles and fibres and are compatible with a wide range of cleanroom solutions and disinfectants.

Available in South Africa from Basan, ReFIBE wipes can be used in place of traditional polyester wipes. Like Contec’s standard polyester wipes, they are laundered and packaged in an ISO 4 cleanroom. ReFIBE wipes are subject to the same quality and process control protocols as virgin polyester products, removing any doubt of quality being compromised for sustainability.

Sustainable options for cleanroom manufacturers are not without their challenges and not all ‘green’ initiatives pass the risk assessment for cleanroom use – certainly in higher grade cleanrooms.

A facility will need to perform thorough research and risk assessments to evaluate all possible outcomes before embarking on green initiatives such as relaundering.

However, all companies must strive to do more to reduce their environmental impact and the use of cleanroom wipes manufactured from post-consumer plastic is a small step towards this. Every step, big or small, can help. • REFERENCES: 1. Production, use, and fate of all plastics ever made.

Science Advances 19 Jul 2017 Vol. 3, no. 7 Roland Gyer, Jenna Jambek and Kara Law 2. Plastic Oceans International; A Plastic Ocean – Education & Discussion Guide 3. www.parliament.uk 4. The stark truth about how long your plastic footprint will last on the planet. The Telegraph 10 January 2018 5. Global 100 ranking Corporate Knights 2020 Report 6. Contec White Paper 2017 Clinical Advantages of Disposable Microfiber Mops David J. Flynn, Peter K. Kang, Ph.D, Mark Wiencek, Ph.D.

Basan – www.basan.co.za Contec – www.contecinc.com/refibe

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HYGIENE & CLEANROOM PRODUCTION

Flexible solutions for clean and controlled environments

The innovation and production cycles of the pharmaceutical and medical industries have evolved considerably over the last year. The increasing global demand for these products has created a shortage of supply affecting lead times and, ultimately access to essential products.

8

BENEFITS OF CHOOSING A MODULAR DESIGN

1. speed of build

W

ith existing manufacturing strained, expansion of production lines and investment in new machinery has created a demand for quickbuilt temporary and permanent cleanrooms.

In this instance, three requirements are perquisite: modularity; flexibility and cleanroom sustainability.

Octanorm is one of the leading international suppliers of modular cleanrooms. With over 50 years of experience in the design, supply and installation of modular structures, the company has perfected its end-product for large cleanroom facilities and simplified its approach to entry-level start-ups with its DIY cleanroom kits (hardwall and softwall), laminar flow workbenches and pass-throughs.

By utilising offsite construction methodologies together with lean manufacturing techniques, Octanorm offers an innovative, sustainable construction solution with less time on site, less waste and higher quality control compared to projects using only site-built construction.

MOBILE AND MODULAR OPTIONS The DIY cleanroom kits consist of modular wall and ceiling elements. They are quick and simple to assemble. The pre-assembled wall elements, which are easily mounted on site, save both travel and assembly expenses.

Thanks to the flexible grid sizes, individual wishes are easily integrated in the early planning stages.

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2. offsite construction 3. eco-friendly and durable materials 4. attractive design 5. high-quality products 6. ability to reconfigure for other applications 7. modifications with minimal impact on existing production and processes 8. easily dismantled and relocated.

Constructed out of aluminium system profiles, acrylic or glass walls, with aluminium composite elements between ceiling panels and plastic strip curtain doors, these kits are completely flexible in size. All kits are supplied with a fan filter unit, non-glaring LEDs integrated into the ceiling profiles and cleanroom-approved surfaces.

Softwall cleanrooms offer a well-protected work area defined by a PVC strip curtain on four sides in which various ISO classes can be achieved. With adjustable feet for static units and castors for mobile units, the softwall unit comes in a variety of sizes. Assembly and dismantling of the unit are quick and easy offering a truly mobile cleanroom environment.

Whenever a small and pure workplace is required, without the need for a permanently installed cleanroom, the mobile laminar flow units are an ideal solution. The laminar air flow ensures a low particle environment and reliable functionality. Lighting and filter fan units are integrated while bottom castors and antistatic curtains are optional.

Pass-throughs are used for a safe, quick and space-saving transfer of documents and materials between cleanrooms of different classes. They guarantee utmost safety due to their interlocking doors and flush surfaces. With Octanorm’s dynamic and static options, it can customise the internal chamber size, door release delay functionality and communication with your building management system (BMS) to ensure that the product suits the end-user’s needs.

CHOOSING AN IDEAL SUPPLIER Full-scale cleanroom environments are flexible and customised according to customers’ design requirements. They are built flush, with non-reflective and antistatic surfaces. Service hatches, doors, switches and other services can easily be integrated whilst still ensuring compliance with ISO 14644 standards. All elements can easily be moved or replaced, without changing the structure and with minimal additional work or material. Advantages of a modular full-scale cleanroom environment include quick assembly, easy handling and minimum production stoppages.

The unproblematic execution of a cleanroom construction project is dependent on the choice of the right partner – a partner whose team of specialists not only provides components, but also knowledge and experience. Octanorm has the skillset to guide, plan and execute, whilst being flexible to customers’ needs. • Octanorm – www.octanorm-cleanroom.com

HYGIENE & CLEANROOM PRODUCTION

Cleanroom training opportunities at Esco Technologies The local subsidiary of Esco Micro, Esco Technologies has recently invested in a new training facility to support the pharmaceutical, bioprocessing, cosmeceutical and food industries with ongoing training in the field of cleanroom technology.

D

epending on the requirements, a training course can be streamlined to cater for the various needs of an organisation. Within the training modules, Esco Technologies incorporates the services of key opinion leaders in the industry together with its in-house expertise. CPD points can also be allocated.

The following topics are offered, though training is not limited to these: • cleanroom certification according to ISO-14644, covering classification, monitoring, test methods and validation • gowning procedure • cleaning protocol for cleanrooms • compounding of hazardous products • how to work safely in your biological safety cabinet.

A WELL-EQUIPPED FACILITY The training facility boasts with an ISO 7 cleanroom with an air shower, transfer hatch, biological safety cabinet and change room. Both theoretical and practical sessions are offered.

Please contact Sonja Strydom for more information, by sending an email to Sonja.strydom@escoglobal.com. •

Esco in action: COVID-19 projects and installations Did you know?

WIN WITH ESCO TECHNOLOGIES You could be the next winner in the Dr Einesco Cabinet Challenge!

• Follow the easy instructions featured in the YouTube video.

You can contact Esco Technologies’ technical team for the validation and servicing of your laminar flow units, biological safety cabinets, fume hoods and for cleanroom certification.

• Send an email to Merushka. heerden@escoglobal.com with a photo of your old Esco cabinet or WhatsApp it to 072 628 1145.

PLAY VIDEO

• • • •

Aseptic Containment Isolator Ceiling Laminar Airflow Cleanroom Airshower Closed/Open Restricted Access Barrier System • Containment Isolators (BSC Class III mode) • Downflow Booth

• Filling Line Isolators • Garment Storage Cabinet • General Processing Platform Isolator • Glassware Hoods • Laminar Flow Straddle Units • Laminar Flow Trolleys • Pass boxes • Soft Wall Cleanroom • Turbulent Flow Aseptic Isolator • Ventilated Balance Enclosure • Weighing and Dispensing Isolator

Esco Technologies SA Head Office: Unit 2 Landsmark Park,17 Landmarks Avenue Kosmosdal Ext 11, Centurion, 0157 Tel: +2711 314 3184 za.escoglobal.com

Esco Technologies – za.escoglobal.com

Cape Town: Office 31, Ground Floor Liesbeek House, River Park Gloucester Road, Mowbray, 7700 Tel: +2721 680 5061

• Compounding Aseptic Isolator • Compounding Aseptic Containtment Isolator • Containment Barrier Isolator • Cytotxic Safety Cabinet • Healthcare Platform Isolator • Radioisotope Dispensing Isolator

• Adherent Tide Motion Bioreactors • Cell Culture Media and Culture Content Monitoring • Cell Processing Isolator • Harvesting System • Stirred Tank Bioreactors

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2021

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RIGID PACKAGING

IML jar paves the way for supply chain efficiencies Packaging is immensely important to brands, especially in a retail setting. When the private label retail brand, Oh So Heavenly transitioned to Teqal’s 500mℓ IML jar for its range of body creams and body butters, it not only received brand-centric packaging with huge shelf appeal but also supply chain efficiencies that have proven very helpful to the business.

By Abby Vorster

T

eqal Creative Packaging (Teqal) launched its 500mℓ lightweight circular cream jar with a 360° wraparound in-mould label (IML) in July 2020. Produced using a patented technology, the jar presents a game changer in packaging design, as the step in the jar – which traditionally holds the inmould label in place – has been eliminated.

“This allows for the full surface of the jar, its full height and the base radius to be decorated with the label. The end result is a premium high-gloss or satin finish IML jar with the aesthetics of a shrinksleeve label but without the associated cost,” says Sean Kirkham, marketing and sales director of Teqal, a KZN-based specialist producer of rigid plastic packaging.

Teqal’s IML jar is also eco-friendlier than the shrinksleeve option because it consists of a combination of 99.9% polypropylene and 0.1% ink which is 100% recyclable. And when compared to self-adhesive labels, the associated high production scrap rates are reduced with in-mould labelling.

Producing sustainable packaging for the cosmetics industry is of great importance to Teqal. Globally, the industry is regarded as a major contributor to the plastic waste crisis as the majority of personal care product packaging is not recyclable.

Kirkham comments: “The only way to change the impact of plastic on the environment is at product level where the uptake of recyclable and biodegradable solutions is likely to make a meaningful difference.”

A SOLUTION FOR EVERY CUSTOMER The 500mℓ IML jar from Teqal is an extremely favourable solution for locally manufactured hair, skin and body care products. This premium quality packaging is 100% home

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grown and it is both cost-effective and accessible to SMEs. Committed to local procurement, Teqal sources the labels from a leading South African label printer. This helps the rigid packaging producer to drastically reduce lead times with almost just-in-time supply and gives customers the freedom to order smaller quantities of labelled jars without any compromise on price.

“MOQs can be a barrier to trade for SMEs. At Teqal, we don’t exclude the small business owner as our technology allows us to service this market efficiently,” Kirkham explains.

“The technology is also scalable and can go from yielding an SME’s small volume order of 10 000 units to producing 5 million jars for a multinational brand, while keeping pricing competitive. Our energy efficient injection moulding machinery is German engineered and allows us to use a high level of automation to produce the IML jars in a single step.”

The jars are 80% white (other colours are also possible) while the labels offer endless design and colour possibilities.

BIG ON BENEFITS Teqal’s IML jar is designed with the customer in mind. Via its patented technology, various benefits are passed onto the customer which add value to their business. These include: • a reduction in in-house packaging inventory • no compromise on price for smaller order quantities • flexibility when ordering coupled with just-in-time supply • an anti-counterfeiting solution as the IML jar cannot be copied • the elimination of additional labelling concerns • no cluttering on the production line • freedom to focus internally on filling and distribution strengths • a drastic increase in line efficiencies with far less labour.

You could have a clear label with a satin finish and gold foiling for a luxurious cocoa butter body cream, or a green label with a clinical look for a camphor cream.

Labels for fruity and floral body butters can be designed with berries or petals that disappear off the top or bottom of the jars. The beauty rests in Teqal’s patented label application technology which allows the packaging supplier to produce all of these jars in one run, in various quantities. The labels, each measuring 60μm, are stacked in sequence of production in the injection moulding machine, which switches from one variant to the next without stopping.

“The foiled IML jar is also at the cutting edge of what is possible globally and Teqal is one of the first rigid packaging manufacturers worldwide to successfully offer this decoration technique with in-mould labelling,” he adds.

OPTIMISTIC AND INNOVATIVE Despite the economic uncertainty, during 2020 Teqal chose to be bullish and invested heavily in new machinery. When the hard lockdown resulted in slow

sales, the company redirected its resources to focus on R&D, setting the development of its IML jar in motion. Ultimately, the invention was a great success thanks to its multi-talented and optimistic team and the company’s in-house toolroom.

"We don’t exclude the small business owner as our technology allows us to service this market efficiently" C

“Our technology is South M African designed and manufactured and protected by Y various patents. We place great emphasis on tooling details CM and manufacture our moulds inMY house to ensure all packaging CY components are of a consistently high quality,” says Kirkham, CMY adding that innovation is a key K business driver for the company.

“It is evident in all our packaging designs, from our Reflections cosmetic jar and the newer biodegradable option to our 500mℓ IML jar which features a revamped lid design. By placing a dimple in the centre of the lid, the jars can nest, enhancing on-shelf stack-ability and merchandising, which is needed in retail.”

With several new design projects currently underway, personal care brands and manufacturers can look forward to a pipeline of innovations coming from Teqal later in the year. •

A cross section of two nested IML jars shows how the dimple in the centre of the lid helps to achieve the perfect stack, which is ideal for retail Teqal Creative Packaging – www.teqal.co.za

HOME CARE

Enhance the sustainability profile of cleaning products with vegan cellulose The demand is increasing for eco-friendly and sustainable ingredients for home care applications as more and more brands become transparent about what their products contain. CFF’s Technocel range brings a new planet- and people-friendly dimension to the market, with 100% biodegradable cellulose fibres for cleaning and laundry applications.

E

co-friendly products are highly valued in today’s world. Their popularity in the home care category continues to grow. Due to the coronavirus pandemic, people are spending a lot more time at home and as a result, they are looking for home cleaning and laundry products formulated with biodegradable

ingredients instead of the harsh abrasive chemical formulations of the past. This trend is challenging home care brands to look for more ethical and responsible sources of ingredients, not forgetting the ban on microplastics which is another key point of consideration for brands.

CFF’s Technocel natural fibres for cleaning products and detergents bring non-abrasive cleansing properties to home care formulations. The fibres are produced from cellulose, a natural, vegan and pure raw material sourced from the regenerative material of wood.

Technocel fibres are 100% biodegradable, planet-friendly ingredients, making them non-hazardous to humans and nature. The mature production process used by CFF allows the company to achieve fibre lengths of 8µm to 2 000µm and supports the development of customised products.

Figure 1: Biodegradability test in freshwater conditions at 20°C, according to DIN EN ISO 14851

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For home care applications and detergents, the white range includes various pure cellulose powders and fibres, fibre granules as well as wood fibres with a particle size of 30µm to 500µm.

These fibres from CFF are cold processable and fit in perfectly with the trend towards solid formulations, which are developed to save water and natural resources, and which use refillable and reusable packaging.

The 100% biodegradability of Technocel fibres has been verified in freshwater conditions and takes place within one to two months, according to ISO 14851

Did you know?

Cellulose is the world’s most abundant polymer. A pine tree generates 13.7g cellulose per day – that is cellulose chains which are as long as 2.62km x 1010km every single day. This equals 655 000 circumferences of the earth and is 175 times the distance between the earth and sun.

HOME CARE

(see Figure 1). Furthermore, according to the UNEP definition, the cellulose fibres are free of microplastics.

WHY YOU SHOULD CHOOSE CFF’S TECHNOCEL NATURAL FIBRES

A SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS CFF, with two production sites in Thuringia and Belgium, is a strong partner for natural and functional celluloses in a wide variety of industries. The company supports customers with innovative solutions for all their individual requests and uses high-quality cellulose fibres from renewable raw materials.

In South Africa, the sole agent of CFF’s products for the home care market is Savannah Fine Chemicals. CFF is a leader in the development of sustainable technologies and is both an energy efficient and ecofriendly business. Its responsible and efficient energy consumption is based on ISO 50001:2011, with the view to reduce its energy use on a long-term basis.

CFF’s environmental policy is focused on the continuous improvement of environmental protection, both internally at the company and externally at its partners. It

Functional properties: • disintegration aid for rapid tablet decay has made a commitment to the sustainable use of energy and to manufacturing its cellulose products using resource-conserving processes and sustainable production methods, which include physical grinding without the use of chemicals.

By taking part in the regional sustainability agreement of Thuringia, CFF supports a stronger ecological awareness of treating natural resources with care. This also involves the responsible selection of plant-based ingredients, which include FSC-certified resources from sustainably managed forests within the regions where it operates. • CFF – www.cff.de/en Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

• scouring agent in detergents • anti-caking agent • carrier material for detergent powders (e.g. carpet cleanser) • compaction aid Technological properties: • high mechanical absorption • retention of water and oil • structural viscosity through the formation of a 3D fibre network • chemically inert and biodegradable • no REACH and SVHC declaration required • physiologically harmless.

INGREDIENT INNOVATION C

THAT’S VALUE DRIVEN

M

Y

CM

MY

INGREDIENTS THAT INSPIRE CREATIVITY

CY

CMY

K

We supply the Homecare sector with quality speciality chemicals, including surfactants, emulsifiers, additives & preservative systems.

We represent leading global manufacturers and along with high quality products, our value added services include formulation advice, ideas & documentation support for the following key application areas:

DISHWASHING | FLOOR CARE | HYGIENE | LAUNDRY | DISINFECTANT CLEANING | SURFACE CARE Johannesburg: +27 11 856 4500 Cape Town: +27 21 551 5353

Durban: +27 31 202 0794 Email: info@savannah.co.za

www.savannah.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2021

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HOME CARE

Choose EasyRinse technology – because every drop counts

Texture is an important aspect to consider when formulating home care products. It is the driver for the complete consumer experience as it talks to the senses and has a strong visual and tactile impact on the overall product.

T

he texture of a neat and diluted product has to be aligned with the application and the benefits the product is supposed to deliver. The right texture starts with the rheology of the formulation and how the product flows and behaves when applied. Foam texture matters as it gives a strong perception of

• silicones for quick foam collapse when rinsing begins.

As much as foam is a vital aspect of texture, the control thereof must also be managed.

Sustainability is a key focus globally and the amount of water required when using

Due to the economic and physical water scarcity, many people have limited access to water. Around 80% of the water consumed during laundry is used to rinse the suds.

Reducing the number of rinse cycles can help to save water, time and effort.

Dow has designed an EasyRinse technology that targets foam control. This

cleaning action and detergency, even if the foam does not clean on its own. In manual laundry or dishwashing, there is never enough foam, until rinsing begins. Creamy, stable foam transmits the impression of gentleness and softness, which is critical in manual dishwashing.

AECI Specialty Chemicals supplies the following range of products that can assists with reaching the required texture for the ultimate consumer experience: • rheology modifiers for perfect flow, vertical cling, transmitting concentration and detergency through viscosity • surfactants for rich foam, viscosity and good rinseability • boosters for skin sensorial benefits, creamy and stable foam, and rheology fine tuning

home care products must be considered.

Consequently, foam control needs to be taken into account when formulating, specifically in water-scarce countries.

allows home care products to have optimum foaming during the washing process and assists in efficient rinsing thereof. The EasyRinse Technology is supplied in a granular

SUSTAINABLE FOAM CONTROL

Figure 1

Karen Meyer (Product Manager)

Test conducted with a leading manual powder detergent from the South African market

E-mail karen.meyer@aeciworld.com

Jacques Strydom (Technical Manager) E-mail jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com

34

APRIL 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

HOME CARE

form for manual and semi-automatic high suds laundry detergents and provides a solution to better manage foam during the rinse cycle. It enables up to 50% less water needed for the rinse. The product differentiates itself from current foam control agents on the market due to negligible impact on the foam during the wash and fast foam reduction once rinsing begins.

In Table 1, Dow has included the Dowsil GP 4533 EasyRinse granules in a water-saver powder for handwash laundry.

A LOOK AT THE GRANULES IN ACTION Foam control testing shown in Figure 1, shows how the EasyRinse GP-4633 granules drastically reduce the number of rinses required after washing. A leading manual powder detergent requires seven rinses to remove foam, but by using the Dowsil EasyRinse GP4633 granules this is reduced to four rinses (at a dosage of 0.68%) and can be reduced even further to three rinses (at a dosage of 1.36%).

Foam develops during the wash cycle after the detergent is dissolved in water and the surface tension is reduced. Dowsil EasyRinseGP-4633 granules remain inactive during the wash cycle. Whilst rinsing, the

Table 1: Water saver high suds powder detergent with easy rinse function

Material/supplier

Ingredient description

Nansa HS 90/Innospec

Sodium alkylbenzene sulfonate 90%

Sodium Silicate Pentahydrate

Sodium silicate

8.0

Sodium sulfate

Sodium sulfate

40.7

Zeolite-4A

Zeolite

10.0

Acusol 497N Polymer/Dow

Acrylic co-polymer/dispersant

2.0

CMC

Anti-redeposition aid

1.0

Soda Ash Light

Builder

3.0

Sodium chloride

Filler

5.0

Lutensol AO9/BASF

Nonionic surfactant

0.3

Perfume Ocean Lime

Perfume

0.3

Soda Ash Dense

Builder

0.7

Blue speckles

Blue speckles

Water

Water

Dowsil GP 4633 EasyRinse Granules/Dow

EasyRinse Technology

surface tension increases allowing the granules to become active, thereby effectively reducing the foam and saving water and effort during the rinsing process.

With Dowsil EasyRinse GP 4633 granules, texture can be maintained in a

Weight % 15

10 4.0 0.68g per 100g powder

sustainable way. For more sustainable home care solutions please contact AECI Specialty Chemicals • AECI Specialty Chemicals – Karen.meyer@aeciworld.com Dow – www.dow.com

Authentic Oil’s is a wholesaler of perfume oils, essential oils as well as cosmetic and home care fragrances. We supply raw materials to manufacturers and we also offer a contract manufacturing service wherebywe manufacture on your behalf.

Authentic Oil’s (Pty) Ltd Should you require any additional information please contact GINO on 062 276 1771 | www.authentic-oils.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2021

35

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices.

Printing and frosting facilities are available.

Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

ASSOCIATION NEWS

What’s hot in hair care, brought to you by Coschem The Society of Cosmetic Chemists kicked off its schedule of virtual events for 2021 with a multi-day hair carethemed seminar, which took place on 23, 24 and 25 February.

W

ith hair care being a relevant and hot topic in the global cosmetics industry, the seminar presentations covered an array of areas pertinent to the category. Scalp care, increased diversity among brands and revitalising claims are some of the biggest trends in the hair care market. In South Africa, the market is projected to increase at a CAGR of 5.7% from 2020 to 2025, while the global market is expected to reach $211.1bn in value by 2025, according to a new report by Grand View Research.

DAY ONE The opening session included a personal account by Simonne Solarsh of IntrinsiCurly Me on the adventures of establishing her curly hair brand – IntrinsiCurly Me. Simonne outlined her product development journey and the challenges she faced entering the personal care market.

Charis Lewis of Investchem reviewed specifics relating to hair loss, hair thinning, alopecia, effluvium and balding.

The final presentation on day one was centred on the scalp microbiome and how to rebalance the bacterial ecosystem. Kim MacCallum of Vantage Speciality Chemicals reviewed some interesting findings on how a reduction in P. acnes is related to an increase in dandruff. She also spoke about the bacterial biofilm and how to rebalance it using anti-adhesion technology.

DAY TWO Coschem was honoured to include a number of presentations by international specialists on day two of the virtual hair care seminar.

Cédric Pety de Thozée of Ajinomoto (Belgium) opened the session on day two with a presentation entitled Amino Acids in Hair Care. He illustrated the topic by focussing on the amino shampoo trend in Asia, showing the benefits of amino acid-derived surfactants and amino acid supplements in hair care formulations.

Day two also included a dynamic overview of New Dyestuffs and Unique Colour Results by Jonathan Wood of KAO (Germany) followed by an interesting and entertaining review by Perry Romanowski of Element 44 (USA) on Formulating Better Hair Care Products. Romanowski’s presentation provided attendees with a strategy for improving the performance of their products.

Caroline Cochrane and Zane Xulu of The Care Co. discussed going natural in hair care. With the world moving more and more towards sustainability, an increasing number of consumers are opting for natural products and hair care is no different.

This shift in consumer thinking has seen manufacturers omitting chemicals from their formulations in favour of a more natural approach. From water dispersible butters in shampoos to hydrolysed wheat protein in conditioners, there are a number of natural alternatives that one can consider for their hair care routine.

Grey hair reversal and recovering one’s natural hair colour were discussed by Zodwa Ndebele of Orkila – an Azelis company.

Zodwa reminded us that although grey hair is inevitable, it can now be reversed.

The Orchem duo, Kgomotso Gwangwa and Lesego Malepe, outlined ways to care for hair, which included a discussion on hair cleansing and grooming.

The final presentation on day two included an insightful overview of the trials and triumphs of semi-permanent hair colours by Patricia

Vesque (Paris) and Nicola Barnard-Marais of Sensient Technologies.

DAY THREE The final session hosted on 25 February was opened by Anele Ntuli of Croda. Anele reviewed a vegan alternative to animal derived keratin.

Ronald Makola of Amka Products focussed on black hair care matters during and post the pandemic, with a specific focus on the salon industry and ‘new normal’ marketing interventions.

Sapphirah Phala of BASF reviewed ethnic hair care trends and presented some insights into sub-Saharan African trends.

The closing presentation by Yashmay Gordhon of CTFA was centred on cosmetic regulations specific to hair care. This was a crucial presentation as cosmetic regulations are the foundation of any successful product.

Members were reminded about claim substantiation and labelling requirements. • Coschem – www.coschem.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2021

37

Tea

time Take a breather

>>>GENERAL KNOWLEDGE QUIZ! 1. Which chemical element is heavier than iron?

2. How many litres of milk does a baby blue whale drink per day?

3. Which aeroplane has not been flown commercially since 2003?

4. In physics, for every action there is an equal and opposite what?

5. Where was the World Wide Web invented?

6. Which particle was discovered by J.J. Thompson?

7. In what year was the first plastic made of artificial materials patented?

8. The Jurassic period is named after a ……………. …………

9. Who developed the theory of the chemical reactivity of oxygen?

10. What kind of substance makes litmus paper turn blue?

Gold, 190, Concorde, reaction, a laboratory in Switzerland, electron, 1909, mountain range, Antoine Lavoisier, alkali

To advertise in

contact

Anita Raath

Carla Melless

Sales executive

Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

+27 (0)83 260 6060

www.pharmacos.co.za

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

ADVERTISERS' INDEX AECI Specialty Chemicals..................34........www.aeciworld.com

Nautica Organic Trading ...................19........www.nauticaorganics.com

Authentic Oil’s ......................................35........www.authentic-oils.co.za

Print a Label............................................. 7........www.printalabel.co.za

Contec.......................................................25........www.contecinc.com/eu

Savannah Fine Chemicals.................33........www.savannah.co.za

Esco Technologies................................29........www.za.escoglobal.com

Teqal Creative Packaging..................31........www.teqal.co.za

IMCD SA ...............................................OFC........www.imcdgroup.com

Vantage Specialty Chemicals ..........17........www.vantagegrp.com

Kirsch Pharma SA.................................21........www.kirschpharma.com

Vega Controls SA ............................. OBC........www.vega.com/vegabar

Moco Packaging ...................................36........www.mocopack.co.za

38

APRIL 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

ONLINE

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ website will find information on membership, educational programmes (specific details pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the personal care industry.

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

www.coschem.co.za

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers, plastic containers,

analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,

closures and packaging accessories.

Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Phone: +27 (0) 11 661 7914 Cell: +27 (0) 81 399 9737 E-mail: peter.moopeloa@bureauveritas.com

BOTANICHEM

FORMPAK For over 50 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical,

BOTANICHEM is a supplier of specialist ingredients to the cosmetic and personal care industry, with a particular focus on plant-derived ingredients which support sustainable supply and fair-trade practice. We also aim to understand the needs of clients and to source the

food and dairy industries.

appropriate ingredient, at the right price.

Tel: +27 (0) 11 828 8870/1/2 Fax: +27 (0) 11 828 8880

www.botanichem.co.za

email: haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations.

If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.

113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications.

Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK

We bring colour into view!

Compact pressure sensors and switches with 360° custom-colour status display

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