Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review April 2022

APRIL 2022 Volume 49 | Number 4

49

years www.pharmacos.co.za

Shaping a better world

through green science & technology Cleaning with care – from biodegradable to bio-based

Green repairing protein for beautiful textured hair

Reimagining plastics from waste to value

April 2022

Contents

49

years

Volume 49 | Number 4 www.pharmacos.co.za

36 Packaging Dow invests in Kenya’s Mr. Green Africa to drive positive change Plastics SA responds to the signing of the plastics treaty

24

39 Association News Highlights from Coschem’s technical seminar on preservatives

14

37

6 News

16 Company Focus

Fibertex high-performance nonwoven materials

Sartorius South Africa welcomes customers to its new offices

DSM announces new senior director

24 Cleaning, Hygiene & Disinfection Choosing the right disinfectants for cleanrooms

18 Pharmaceutical Focus

8 On the Street

Steierl-Pharma turns to Omron for improved labelling systems

Leveraging digitalisation to optimise hygienic processing

27 Ethnic Care

10 Home Care

Major investment to strengthen Roquette’s position in polyols market

New technologies for laundry and cleaning from AECI

22 Company Focus

New products on our radar

Evonik pioneers a new market with rhamnolipid surfactants BASF and Henkel collaborate on move to renewable ingredients

RMB Corvest announces investment in Brunel Laboratoria

10

Dry ice blasting revolutionises industrial cleaning

Acquisition sees Symrise expand in Grasse, France

Seppic presents a sustainable alternative to silicones Green repairing protein for beautiful textured hair

30 Industry Talk Mintel data helps brands navigate the future of beauty

On the cover

Shaping a better world through green science & technology

How to approach demand planning in the ‘new normal’ NSBC highlights the big impact of small businesses

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2022

3

FROM THE EDITOR

The team EDITORIAL

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti

The future of chemistry looks green

G

reen chemistry continues to be a catalyst for sustainable innovation.

In the cosmetics industry, L’Oréal has been a frontrunner in integrating green chemistry in its innovation model, challenging its R&D teams to invent new high-performance molecules with low to no environmental impact.

Now the movement has gained traction in the home care category, with more and more brands moving away from fossil fuel-based ingredients in their cleaning and detergent formulations. However, industry’s concerns over the depletion of natural resources are not new. Since 2019, Unilever has been partnering with Evonik to bring to market home care products based on sustainable biosurfactants. And more recently, Henkel announced that it is collaborating with BASF to increase the use of renewable raw materials in its home care and beauty care consumer goods products. Both Evonik and BASF are featured in this edition of P&C Review. Their stories are published alongside the announcement of AECI’s €25.m investment into an international cleantech company with a revolutionary upcycling technology. Turn to page 10 to find out more.

Sartorius South Africa, a trusted partner of the biopharmaceutical industry, recently celebrated the opening of its new offices, showroom and workshop in the Waterfall Logistics Precinct, in Johannesburg. The company also donated high-quality demo laboratory equipment to the biotech NPO, BioCiTi Labs, to help develop the

biotechnology community in South Africa. You can read more about this on page 16.

In the feature on cleaning, hygiene and disinfection, Sascha Rother of basan highlights the basic considerations regarding disinfectant choices in critical areas such as cleanrooms. He also provides guidance on the factors impacting the performance of cleaning operators. We take a look at dry ice blasting and how this method is revolutionising industrial cleaning in South Africa. Check out page 24 for more on this.

With the world beginning to accept that it is time to tackle the problem of plastic waste, we’re excited to bring you the news of Dow‘s investment in Kenya’s Mr. Green Africa to enable further diversion of plastic waste from informal dumpsites and the environment. Dow is also working with the technology start-up, Plastogaz to simplify the process of converting plastic waste to feedstock. By way of a strategic investment, Dow will bring global reach and materials science expertise to Plastogaz to further develop its advanced recycling technology.

These stories are published on page 36 in our packaging feature.

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

P&C Review is affiliated with:

CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

4

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

ADVERTISING

SALES EXECUTIVE: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za SALES EXECUTIVE: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za SALES EXECUTIVE: Càndida Giambò-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za

INTERNATIONAL SALES

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

CIRCULATION

CIRCULATION MANAGER: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

PUBLISHING TEAM

GENERAL MANAGER: Dev Naidoo PRODUCTION CONTROLLER: Mandy Ackerman ART DIRECTOR: David Kyslinger

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

New Media Publishing, Ground floor 272 Pretoria Avenue, Randburg Tel: +27 (0)11 713 9000 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd

CEO: Aileen Lamb COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone HEAD OF HR: Ruth Shogoe CEO MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson

Enjoy the read!

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Vivian Frittelli

CONTRIBUTORS: Sascha Rother

MANAGEMENT TEAM

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

SUB-EDITOR: Katrien Smit

HEAD OFFICE New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd 8th floor, Media24 Centre, 40 Heerengracht Cape Town, 8001 Tel: +27 21 406 2002 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

John Knowlton

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - T he Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

We bring colour into view!

Compact pressure sensors and switches with 360° custom-colour status display

256 colours Individually selectable: Measurement in progress Sensor switching Process malfunction

15 cm

Compact design

Hygienic adapter system

Adjustment via smartphone

www.vega.com/vegabar

NEWS

Nonwoven fabrics for wipes are safe use in many sectors and applications Fibertex high-performance nonwoven materials, used to manufacture of wipes, are developed for safe use in diverse applications, including medical attention, general cleaning, patient care and food service.

“Fibertex specialists work closely with customers globally to produce customised materials for advanced wipes, which ensure dependable and cost-efficient cleaning solutions for specific requirements, including critical cleaning,” explains Rosa Naidoo, business development manager, Fibertex South Africa, which is part of the global Fibertex group. “By combining advanced technologies and pristine hygiene manufacturing protocols, Fibertex enhances the quality, performance and appearance of every product.”

The local operation, with its head office in KwaZulu-Natal, benefits from support from the holding company in Denmark to guarantee the edge on product design, impeccable manufacturing standards and cost-efficiency. Global collaboration enhances the performance, safety and reliability of every Fibertex material.

The manufacturer uses advanced needlepunch and spunlace technologies to produce nonwoven fabrics used in the production of different cleaning products. These include disinfecting wipes, household floor wipes, pet wet wipes and cosmetic wipes, as well as medical compresses and wash gloves.

These products, which can be used wet or dry, are impregnated with carefully selected components for specific purposes, like polishing, cleaning, personal care and for the removal of bacteria. Fibertex nonwovens are manufactured with a consistent weight and thickness and are soft in texture, with excellent resistance and high absorbency.

DSM announces new senior director of R&D, innovation and marketing for Personal Care & Aroma Ingredients

Fibertex spunlace nonwovens for wipes are available in sizes from 30gsm to 120gsm, in different materials, including polyester, viscose, polypropylene (PP) and polylactic acid (PLA). Fabrics are available in plain, apertured, embossed, white or coloured. Fibertex needlepunch fabrics are available in polyester, viscose and PP, from 60gsm to 650gsm.

Wipes for household and all-purpose cleaning (APC) applications are manufactured from spunlace nonwovens, which are available in sizes from 40gsm to 50gsm, in different materials, including polyester, viscose, PP and PLA. Fabrics are available in plain, apertured, embossed, white or coloured. Aperture or embossed spunlace or needlepunch nonwovens for floor wipes are available in sizes between 70gsm and 100gsm, in VIS/PET materials. Spunlace materials for wipes – available with apertures from low to high mesh – offer high-strength, superior performance and excellent liquid absorbency. Fibertex materials for cosmetic wipes are available in plain, aprtured or embossed spunlace, or needlepunch nonwovens, between 40gsm and 100gsm. Spunlace materials for cosmetic wipes can also have one exfoliating side and one smooth side.

Fibertex spunlace materials, which offer excellent dry and wet strength in both directions, are washable for safe re-use. The substrate can be soft or stiff in texture, depending on specific requirements. Needlepunch nonwovens ensure a high capacity for the collection of fluids, debris and other substances.

Spunlace materials, from 40gsm to 60gsm, are recommended for the manufacture of disinfecting wipes. Fibertex utilises a specific PET fibre blend, to ensure high absorption of the disinfecting lotion.

The success of these wipes is in the efficient release of lotion on the surface when used. For premium disinfecting wipes, Fibertex offers an isotropic material, Fibertex nonwoven materials for cosmetic wipes

with excellent resistance in both directions. Fibertex also manufactures needlepunch and spunlace materials for wash gloves. These materials, which are available is sizes between 50gsm and 100gsm, are suitable for various production processes, including sewing, gluing, ultra-sonic and welding.

Royal DSM, a global purpose-led sciencebased company, has appointed Edson Barros as senior director of R&D, innovation and marketing. He took up this new role on the Personal Care & Aroma management team on

Edson Barros says he is delighted to support the continuous growth of DSM Personal Care & Aroma Ingredients over the next few years

1 April 2022 and will be based in Kaiseraugst, Switzerland.

Barros is a Brazilian/Italian national with a strong background in personal care, having worked in sales, marketing, strategy and project management across different continents with BASF and Clariant. He joined DSM in 2019 as regional director for Latin America (LATAM) where he and his team have successfully grown the region’s sales by double digits. During this time has also pioneered LATAM’s market ready solutions programme for personal care and chaired the LATAM’s inclusion and diversity committee.

Barros succeeds Rishabh Pande, who has taken a new role within DSM’s Food & Beverages business group and will report to Gareth Barker, president

Fibertex head office: 031 736 7100 sales@fibertex.com www.fibertex.com

6

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

of DSM Personal Care & Aroma Ingredients. Barros will relocate to the Basel region with his family.

NEWS

Symrise announces expansion in Grasse, the French perfume capital Symrise has submitted a binding offer to

compositions. In almost 60 years, the company

acquire 100% of R. Romani – Société Française

has developed unparalleled know-how in high-end

Creations & Parfums and Floressence, both

d’Aromatiques (SFA Romani), a high-end fragrance

fragrance compounds.

founded in the mid-1980s in St. Cezaire within Pays

house. In addition, Symrise submitted a binding

“We are very proud of all that SFA Romani has

Groupe Neroli consists of the companies

de Grasse. Last November, Symrise had already

offer to fully acquire Neroli Invest DL (Groupe

achieved in 60 years as an independent company.

announced a joint venture with Groupe Neroli. Now,

Neroli). Both companies are based in the Grasse

We embody unparalleled know-how and quality in

the company decided to fully acquire the shares.

area in France.

high-end fragrance compounds from Grasse. We

“We are very pleased about the offer to join

With these transactions, Symrise intends to

are confident that the company and our brand will

such an important Group as Symrise. Customers

reinforce its fine fragrance presence in southern

continue to flourish as part of the Symrise family,”

and employees of Neroli will be in very good hands

France, strengthen its competitiveness in the

said Viviane and Charles Romani-Caruso, founders

which will be most important for me”, said Christian

creation of fragrance compositions and broaden

of SFA Romani founders.

Dussoullier, CEO of Neroli group.

its presence in key countries in Europe, Africa and the Middle East. The combined annual sales of SFA Romani and Groupe Neroli amount to more than €40m. The closing of the transactions is expected in Q2 2022, subject to approval of respective bodies and consultations of the works councils. The parties agreed to keep the purchase price confidential.

Ricardo Omori, global SVP fine fragrance of Symrise, comments: “With these transactions, we will increase our access to high-quality natural ingredients, expand our customer base and strengthen our competitiveness through greater agility and a significantly enlarged fine fragrance team in the historical birthplace of perfumery in Europe, Pays de Grasse.”

Symrise intends to build a strong player in the Grasse area with a new growth platform including creation centres, sales and marketing teams, as well as production capacities.

SFA Romani, founded in 1963 in Grasse, is internationally recognised for its choice of the finest natural raw materials, its craftmanship in fragrance creation and the quality of its

To build a strong position in natural fragrance ingredients, Groupe Neroli established long-term partnerships with farmers in the Grasse area for the sustainable cultivation of flowers

• Core focus is dissemination of scientific information • Cosmetic Science Course • Membership

Connecting People & Cosmetics

• Scientific conference, seminars and training • Networking • Industry vacancies • Affiliated to IFSCC www.coschem.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2022

7

On the Street 1. Double trouble mascara duo

New products on our radar

Say hello to essence double trouble mascara. Whether flirty and fun or bold and dramatic, you can enjoy the best of both worlds with one mascara.

There is no need to pick between ‘curl and definition’ or ‘bold and voluminous’ lashes when it comes to creating your dream lashes. essence double trouble mascara is packaged with an innovative mascara wand designed with a double-sided brush.

For defined lashes with a boosted curl, the fibre side of the brush is engineered to gently curve and separate each individual lash upwards. For bold lashes with double the volume, the elastomer side is designed to create a dramatic effect and ultimate glam look.

Using both sides of the mascara brush offers a long-lasting effect of visibly lengthened and thickened lashes.

1

essence double trouble mascara is available at Dis-Chem, Clicks, Woolworths, Foschini, House of Cosmetics, Superbalist, SkinMiles, and Takealot.com.

2. Beat post-acne marks with Eucerin Eucerin’s Dermopurifyer skin care range provides a product

combination for effective relief from the emotional and physical burden of blemish-prone skin with post-acne marks (postinflammatory hyperpigmentation or PIH).

The new Eucerin Dermopurifyer triple effect serum is formulated with thiamidol, a patented ingredient that reduces blemishes by acting at the root cause – the formation of melanin in the skin. The

2

formulation also contains salicylic acid to reduce blemishes and licochalcone A to prevent new blemishes from appearing. Thanks to sebum regulating technology, it leaves the skin with a long-lasting, dry and matte look.

The new Eucerin Dermopurifyer protective fluid SPF30 protects post-acne marks from darkening due to sun exposure. The SPF fluid is formulated with antibacterial decanediol, which helps prevent blemishes, and licochalcone A to soothe irritated skin.

In a research study, 95% of users say the combination finally beats their post-acne marks*. The results are enhanced when both products are used in combination.

3. Get graphic eyes with Playgirl Beauty

Single eyeshadows in an assortment of new shades, two versatile mascaras and the double trouble gel liner and shadow are the new additions to the Playgirl Beauty range of makeup products.

The textures and formulas of the eyeshadows are market leading and include matte, mousse, marble, holographic and metallic options - offering makeup lovers a real treat.

The all-new Playgirl Beauty double trouble gel liner and shadow 2 in 1 pot is available in 12 shades. This duo includes a versatile formula that can be used as a graphic liner, as well as a long stay, blending eyeshadow.

The Playproof waterproof mascara and lash like a boss extra volume mascara. These two market-leading mascaras are smearproof and long-lasting to extend and enhance natural lashes.

The products are available online and in-store at select Clicks stores. Visit www.planetofattraction.co.za for more information.

8

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

3

DIARY

What’s on in 2022 May Propak East Africa 10 to 12 May Nairobi, Kenya www.propakeastafrica.com Vitafoods Europe 10 to 12 May Geneva, Switzerland www.vitafoods.eu.com Chemspec Europe 31 May to 1 June Frankfurt, Germany www.chemspeceurope.com

2022 SUBSCRIPTION FORM Please complete in block letters, select your subscription option, and return this form, along with your payment to: NEW MEDIA, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Email: felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS (please tick) 1 YEAR Food Review Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review

Food Review + Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review

2 YEAR

R588

R905

R588 R1066

R905 R1620

Full Name:...........................................................................................

June Analytica 21 to 24 June Munich, Germany www.analytica.de/en 2022 World Perfumery Congress 29 June to 1 July Miami, Florida www.worldperfumerycongress.com

Designation: ........................................................................................

Company: ...........................................................................................

Postal Address:................................................................................... .................................................................Code:.................................

Country: ..............................................................................................

Tel: (

) ..................................

Main activity of company:...................................................................

Approximate number of employees: ..................................................

VAT No: ............................................................................................... ❑ I would like to receive the newsletters and feature announcements via email and may be added to the mailing lists.

Signature:............................................................................................

Please select your preferred method of payment:

❑

July Cosmoprof North America 12 to 14 July Las Vegas, USA www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

)....................................... Fax: (

E-mail:.................................................................................................

Direct Deposit (Complete and email this form to: felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd Payee:

Bank:

Acc No:

Nedbank Seapoint

1069321540

Branch Code: 10-69-09-00

❑

Credit Card (Mastercard & Visa only) Name of card: .............................................................................

Expiry Date: ................................................................................

Card Number: .............................................................................

Vivaness 26 to 29 July Nuremberg, Germany www.vivaness.de/en

CVC Number...............................................................................

Date: ...........................................................................................

Signature:....................................................................................

❑

TAX INVOICE REQUIRED Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only.

International rates available on request.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2022

9

HOME CARE

Shaping a better world through green science and technology For a company that has been around for the last 100 years, AECI knows what it takes to survive in an everchanging social-economic environment. While its product portfolio grows and adjusts in line with changes in the market, AECI’s people stay consistent in their commitment to and engagement with customers. The team is driven by the “AECI Bigger” values of being bold and engaged, innovative, going green and acting responsibly. This is evident in a series of internal developments, which are set to benefit people, the planet and the industries it serves.

A

ECI has invested €2.5m in a strategic collaboration with Clariter, an international cleantech company with a revolutionary upcycling technology.

This transforms plastic waste into three industrial ingredients – oils, solvents and waxes – which are used to produce thousands of crude oil-free consumer endproducts. These include cleaning agents, leather conditioners, paints, wood and floor polishes, candles, inks, mineral oils, shoe cream, surf wax and so much more.

Plastic waste is a global challenge.

Around 370m tonnes of plastic is produced annually and only 16% is recycled, 25% is burned and 59% is landfilled or discarded in an uncontrolled manner. Since demand for plastic is growing by 3% a year and global volumes will reach 515m tonnes by 2029, the current waste trajectory is unsustainable.

By addressing the circularity of the commodity, by the end of 2028 Clariter will upcycle 2m tonnes of plastic waste,

10

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Did you know?

As a group, AECI has much to offer. To ensure it is able to deliver growth and maximise resources to the benefit of all stakeholders in a sustainable way, AECI has adopted a more collaborative and integrated approach in everything it does. This philosophy and associated commitments are captured in the group’s purpose of ‘One AECI, for a better world’.

produce 1.7m tonnes of industrial products and reduce CO 2 emissions by nearly 1m tonnes. Since the products are decoupled from crude oil and refinery value chains, they ensure business continuity and price stability.

Current results show that they meet FDA purity standards and exceed equivalent benchmarks.

MOVING FORWARD WITH INTERNATIONALISATION AECI chief executive Mark Dytor says that there are many reasons why

the company is well-placed for this type of strategic collaboration, one of which is AECI’s “extensive chemical application expertise, industrial experience, market access in key geographies and product development capabilities”.

HOME CARE

“It’s also part of our internationalisation strategy, which includes growing hard currency earnings,” Dytor explains. “At the same time, we’re shaping ‘a better world’ through a commitment to ‘better chemistry’. As one of the main features of our recently released sustainability framework, ‘better chemistry’ focuses on embracing the principles of green science and technology in developing, manufacturing, packaging and transporting industrial products and solutions. Our strategic collaboration with Clariter will play a meaningful role in this regard.”

Circular, green processes and products have a meaningful role to play in the sustainability movement and ultimately towards achieving a net-zero-carbon future.

Clariter’s president and CEO, Ran Sharon, adds: “A collaborative approach is the essence of Clariter’s strategy. This happens on many levels, from building plants to securing offtake agreements. AECI coming on board is a win-win for everyone involved and we’re looking forward to the future!”

YOUR HOME CARE PARTNER AECI Specialty Chemicals, a division of AECI, has always been a strong player in the consumer specialities market in South Africa.

Its 60-year history is built on a reputation of passion and commitment to creating lasting and relevant partnerships with its employees, customers and suppliers.

Remaining agile in a tough economic environment is a key strength for the continued success of AECI Specialty Chemicals. By combining core scientific expertise with a deep understanding of market needs, the company strives to deliver raw materials that are safe, effective and sustainable.

TECHNICAL AND FORMULATION EXPERTISE AECI Specialty Chemicals has always believed in partnering with the right suppliers worldwide. This strategy not only places the company in a position to offer the latest innovations, but also allows it to take advantage of the technology and expertise at its fingertips to advise and formulate with an economical mindset.

The company’s state-of-the-art laboratory coupled with its technical expertise allows AECI Specialty Chemicals to assist customers and formulate products according to their needs. The company’s extensive home care portfolio includes:

"AECI Specialty Chemicals understands the needs of the South African market – for example, that the country is particularly reliant on the soap bar" • surfactants • rheology modifiers • performance boosters • opacifiers • dispersants • antifoams • chelating agents • disinfectants • dyes and pigments.

With its manufacturing capabilities in South Africa, AECI Specialty Chemicals is equipped to produce concentrated blends for customer-specific products. This offers added value to customers, who also benefit from the company’s basket of tailor-made solutions.

AECI Specialty Chemicals recognises that customers have different needs and these needs change, therefore the AECI personal care and home care team, together with the creativity and innovation of its technology partners, continue to offer win-win solutions for customers, suppliers and its own business.

NEW TECHNOLOGIES FOR LAUNDRY AND CLEANING AECI Specialty Chemicals is at the forefront of new technology to address key global concerns. These include products that reduce water consumption whilst providing optimum cleaning in a laundry handwash; an additive that protects and provides softness as well as colour protection of clothing, thereby extending a garment’s life.

Unique surface modification polymers also form part of the company’s product offering. These polymers leave a hydrophilic layer for antifog/anti-streak

properties with quick dry and easy next time cleaning benefits.

AECI Specialty Chemicals understands the needs of the South African market – for example, that the country is particularly reliant on the soap bar. Another unique product in its portfolio is the technology that reduces the total fatty matter content of bar soaps whilst providing anti-cracking and foamboosting properties.

AECI Specialty Chemicals is able to offer frugal innovation and cost-effective formulations to meet your needs. The business understands the importance of texture and shine in home care products, including optimum foaming as well as suitable rheology. Building these aspects into a formulation is crucial to give consumers a great experience when using home care products.•

AECI Specialty Chemicals – thureya.sarlie@aeciworld.com, karen.meyer@aeciworld.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2022

11

HOME CARE

Rhamnolipid surfactants help to eliminate

fossil fuels in cleaning products

Evonik will begin building the world’s first industrial-scale facility for manufacturing sustainable rhamnolipid biosurfactants at its site in Slovakia. The triple-digit millioneuro investment will establish the company as a pioneer of high-quality, sustainable biosurfactants on a commercial scale.

C

onstruction at the Evonik site in Slovenská Ľupča is scheduled for completion by the end of 2023. The new plant will meet rapidly growing demands for biobased, biodegradable surfactants, and will leverage the biotechnology platform of Evonik’s life sciences division, Nutrition & Care.

Evonik’s rhamnolipids are of an exceptionally high quality and provide the company with a unique position in the market due to the IP-protected manufacturing process.

The biosurfactants are manufactured and sourced sustainably and play an essential role in transitioning the Nutrition & Care division to become a provider of system solutions.

Furthermore, Evonik and Unilever have entered into a strategic partnership for the supply of rhamnolipids for use in dish washing liquid and other home care applications. The recently signed long-term agreement represents an important step in the commercialisation of this biosurfactant technology and opens opportunities for

other companies wishing to offer sustainable solutions to their customers.

MAKING SUSTAINABILITY EASY FOR EVERYONE “This is a game-changer for cleaning and personal care products. With this investment we are pioneering a new market and we believe that this will transform the way the world cleans. We are proud to collaborate with Unilever for a cleaner, more sustainable future,” says Johann-Caspar Gammelin, president of the Nutrition & Care division.

The increased production capacity of sustainable biosurfactants and the partnership between Evonik and Unilever demonstrate a major portfolio shift for the company’s life science division as it expands Evonik’s offering of system solutions. Characterised by high growth prospects and above-average margin potential, Nutrition & Care aims to increase the share of system solutions it offers from the current 20% to more than 50% by 2030.

A NEW ERA OF CLEANING Evonik has launched a sustainable rhamnolipid, Rewoferm RL 100. The new biosurfactant meets demands for low-emission, low-impact cleaning products that enable a circular economy.

Rewoferm RL 100 is produced from renewable feedstocks sourced in Slovakia, where its new biosurfactant plant is based, and is fully biodegradable while providing excellent cleaning performance.

Rhamnolipids are a class of biosurfactants which can be sustainably manufactured via a fermentation process using European corn sugar as the main raw material.

This use of biogenic carbon requires no petrochemical raw materials or tropical oils. Rhamnolipids are very mild on the skin and have an exceptionally low toxicological and ecotoxicological profile.

The outstanding foam-forming properties of Rewoferm RL 100 make it suitable for use in a broad range of applications, including laundry detergents, hard surface cleaners, vehicle care and cleaning formulations for the food and beverage industry.

The biosurfactant also reduces the complexity of cleaning formulations because it can act as a primary and secondary surfactant.

"We are pioneering a new market and we believe that this will transform the way the world cleans" 12

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

HOME CARE

The investment project at the Slovenská Ľupča site and the latest strategic partnership reflect a culmination of these efforts and is the first step to providing industrial quantities of rhamnolipids to a broad range of customers.

STRATEGIC LOCATION FOR BIOTECHNOLOGY The Evonik site in Slovenská Ľupča, Slovakia

“Rhamnolipids are an important part of Unilever’s clean future initiative, which has set the goal to exclude fossil carbon in all cleaning products by 2030. We want to make sustainability easy for everyone that uses our products. The partnership with Evonik helps move our brands away from fossil fuels without compromising on performance or affordability,” says Peter Dekkers, executive vice president Middle Europe, Unilever.

Evonik and Unilever have partnered since 2019 to market a new hand dishwashing detergent based on Evonik’s rhamnolipids.

The new plant in Slovakia is leveraging the biotechnology platform of Nutrition & Care and will support the growth objective of the division and the Care Solutions business line.

Evonik Fermas, situated in Slovakia, was established more than 25 years ago as the company’s scale-up and launch platform.

Now a strategic location for Evonik’s biotechnology activities, the site is a key biotech hub for growing and developing the company’s offerings of system solutions.

Expansion of the facility will benefit from the highly skilled biotechnology competencies of the Slovakian workforce.

Rhamnolipids are a class of biosurfactants which can be sustainably manufactured via a fermentation process using sugar as the main raw material. This use of biogenic carbon requires no petrochemical raw materials or tropical oils. Rhamnolipids are fully biodegradable and their low-impact life cycle means they are a sustainable alternative to conventional surfactants. Their exceptional foam-forming properties make them suitable for use in household cleaners and personal care products like shampoos and micellar waters. Their pleasant taste also enables the formulation of oral care products such as toothpaste without the need for strong tastemasking components.

With its well-established biosurfactant portfolio, the Care Solutions business line firmly cements its position as a sustainable specialties partner, while also further strengthening Nutrition & Care’s broad technology platform.

The portfolio includes Rheance® One for personal care applications and Rewoferm RL 100 for cleaning solutions. •

Evonik – household-care.evonik.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2022

13

HOME CARE

Cleaning with care –

from biodegradable to bio-based BASF and Henkel are collaborating to increase the brand’s use of renewable raw materials in Henkel’s consumer goods products. By working together, around 110 000t per year of fossil-based ingredients will be substituted with renewable carbon sources using BASF’s certified biomass balance approach. The move to renewable raw materials will ramp up quickly and shall avoid around 200 000t of CO 2 emissions in total.

I

n a joint cooperation, BASF and Henkel have committed to replacing fossil carbon feedstock with renewable feedstock for most products in Henkel’s European laundry and home care and beauty care businesses.

The move to renewable feedstock comes after a successful pilot project in 2021 with Henkel’s cleaning and detergent brand Love Nature and will see the interchange to renewable ingredients take place over the next four years.

Through the cooperation, the fossil feedstock for around 110 000t of ingredients per year will be substituted with renewable feedstock using BASF’s certified biomass balance approach. As a result, Henkel’s core brands like Persil, Pril, Fa and Schauma will come with a reduced carbon footprint, avoiding around 200 000t of CO2 emissions in total.

“We are delighted to build on our ongoing cooperation with BASF and significantly increase the share of biomass in the value chain of our products used daily by millions of consumers worldwide,” says Carsten Knobel, CEO of Henkel. “To foster a regenerative planet, we are on a journey toward the environmental transformation of our business model. We intend to continuously enhance our processes, products and use of raw materials for a resource- efficient, carbon-neutral future.

Integrating BASF’s biomass balance approach into our supply chain as an early-adopter is a right step in that direction.”

THE BIOMASS BALANCE APPROACH “I am very proud that Henkel honours the efforts that BASF is making in providing Henkel with low product carbon footprint products,” comments Dr Martin Brudermüller, chairman of the board of executive directors of BASF. “We are also proud to support such an innovative brand owner that is an early-adopter in offering consumers more sustainable solutions on such a large scale. The project underlines

14

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

"The fossil feedstock for around 110 000t of ingredients per year will be substituted with renewable feedstock using BASF’s certified biomass balance approach" the commitment of both companies to creating a sustainable future.”

The replacement of fossil feedstock is possible through BASF’s biomass balance approach – renewable resources are used in

the very first steps of chemical production.

The bio-based feedstock amount is then attributed to specific products by means of the certified method.

BASF has established a closed chain of custody from the renewable feedstock it uses through to the final product. The independent certification body TÜV Nord supports the practical implementation and confirms according to the REDCert2 certification scheme that BASF replaces the required quantities of fossil resources for the biomass balanced product with renewable feedstock.

TAKING SUSTAINABILITY TO THE NEXT LEVEL Eco-aware consumers choose ecosustainable products for washing and cleaning – and expect them to do the job

HOME CARE

Henkel production – laundry and home care

perfectly. With solutions by BASF, brands can satisfy consumers in both areas.

The BASF biomass balance approach enables BASF to use renewable materials along the entire value chain. Biomass balanced products are identical in terms of formulation and quality

but save on fossil resources and harmful emissions. So, 100% of resources needed for production can be from a renewable source.

Chelating agents are used in a huge variety of applications. In modern dishwasher tabs, chelating agents prevent and dissolve scales

and dirt on dishes. In addition, they enhance the cleansing effects of detergents, industrial and general-purpose cleaners and are used as process aids in the paper industry. Chelating agents are also used as intermediates in the production of specialized fertilisers which can add to plant health and avoid salination of soil.

Trilon M Max EcoBalanced and Trilon M Max BioBased are the latest bio-balanced generations of the Trilon M chelating agent established on the market as high-performance phosphate and phosphonate alternatives for dishwashing detergents. With these ingredeints BASF’s customers can combine sparkling dishwashing performance with eco-sustainable principles. EU Ecolabel-compliant and certified by the European REDcert2 for the chemical industry, Trilon M Max EcoBalanced removes scale and soiling perfectly.

The combination of conventional and bio-based ingredients makes Trilon M Max BioBased an ideal choice when it comes to delivering effective, sustainable dishwashing performance. • BASF – www.basf.com

Unlocking potential, innovation and excellence on the African continent CJP Chemicals, established in 1986, is a leading stockist and distributor of both speciality and commodity raw chemicals to a variety of industries.

With sales offices and warehouses in all four major business districts of South Africa, namely Johannesburg (HQ), Durban, Cape Town & Port Elizabeth, CJP Chemicals has the capacity to supply a diverse range of products. Together with our strong and long standing partnerships with both international and local producers, CJP Chemicals has the reach to source, procure and deliver commercial, technical and logistical solutions to all our customers.

Our Personal Care division offers a comprehensive range of innovative ingredients that deliver ease-of-use technical performance and efficacy to our customers’ formulations.

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

Anti Ageing Agents Anti Bacteria Anti caking Anti Fungal Bulking Agent Butters Carbomers Carrier Oils Conditioning Agents Emolients Emulsifier Essential oils Excipents

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

Exfoliating Agents Fatty Acids Fatty Alcohols Fillers Fragrances Gelling Agents Glycols Humectants Matting Agents Moisturising Agents Peeling Granules Petrolatum Polymers

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

Polysorbates Preservatives Sebum Regulator Silicones Skin Whiteners Soaps Solubilzer UV Filters Surfactants Thio-Compounds Vegetable Oils Waxes White Mineral Oils

Tel: 011-494-6700 • Email: nataliem@cjpchemicals.co.za • Web: www.cjpchemicals.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2022

15

COMPANY FOCUS

Sartorius South Africa focuses on innovation, growth and sustainability On 10 March, Sartorius South Africa officially opened its offices in the newly established Waterfall Logistics Precinct, in Johannesburg. The larger, more modern office space with the addition of a showroom and workshop, forms part of the company’s planned growth strategy and is in line with the image Sartorius aims to portray to customers globally.

A

trusted partner of the biopharmaceutical industry, Sartorius is a leading international pharmaceutical and laboratory equipment provider. The business was founded in 1870 in Göttingen, Germany where the Sartorius headquarters are still situated today.

Sartorius has expanded its global footprint over the last 152 years. Although Sartorius is present in over 30 countries – where it has established more than 60 sites, 22 of which are production facilities – with its sales subsidiaries and commercial agencies the company’s global footprint spans more than 110 countries.

"We pride ourselves on high-level customer service and the strong partnerships we have built with customers" Across the 60 sites worldwide, Sartorius employs more than 14 000 people and is strongly focused on diversity in this regard. Diversity is more than creating equal opportunities for men and women. At Sartorius, it is about acknowledging individual differences and embracing the kaleidoscope of our multi-cultural world. The benefits of diverse perspectives and experiences throughout the global business result in a better understanding of its customers’ needs and the ability to develop customised solutions and remain competitive in a global economy.

16

partnerships we have built with 1 customers in South Africa. We live by our company values of sustainability, openness and enjoyment,” says Kelly O’Donovan, managing director 2 of Sartorius South Africa.

Sartorius’ different business areas include lab filtration; industrial microbiology; weighing balances; 3 liquid handling and lab water purification systems; process filtration and purification; fluid management technologies such as tanks, single-use bags and tubing; fermenters; bioreactors and cell culture media. It also offers a broad portfolio of laboratory products and services, as well as bioprocessing solutions which are focused on the 1. Sartorius South Africa’s modern office space 2. Henning Walther, pharmaceutical industry. head of sales EMEA for the lab division, pictured with managing director, Kelly O’Donovan 3. Sartorius South Africa employs a team of “In terms of services, our workshop dynamic and passionate individuals offers repairs and maintenance of all instruments we supply. within the biotechnology community, both at In addition, the Sartorius Group BioCiTi and at its new offices in Johannesburg. offers certain validation services, cell line Excited about the future, O’Donovan says development and testing,” she adds. that “the South African office of Sartorius is perfectly positioned to develop into a hub for UPLIFTING THE BIOTECH COMMUNITY sales and service of all Sartorius products Biotechnology in South Africa is about into Africa.” • community, and Sartorius South Africa

BROAD PORTFOLIO OF PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

contributes to developing this community through various initiatives.

The company recently stepped up and assisted the non-profit organisation BioCiTi Labs to achieve its goal of becoming a specialised biotech incubator. Based in Cape Town, BioCiTi provides African entrepreneurs and researchers access to a laboratory equipped with state-of-the-art equipment for biotechnological research.

Sartorius South Africa has very strong product knowledge and experience in the fields of lab weighing, process filtration and fermentation.

“We pride ourselves on high-level customer service and the strong

Facilitated by O’Donovan and Sartorius South Africa’s account manager, Lurissa Hitchcock, the company has placed various high-quality demo equipment within the lab for members of BioCiTi to utilise. Sartorius South Africa also plans to host training seminars

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Did you know?

As a high-growth company, Sartorius aims to reduce its CO2 emission intensity by around 10% annually on average until 2030. As such, the global group is exceeding the ambitious levels of the European Union and the ScienceBased Targets initiative, which have set targets of approximately 8.5% and 7% respectively.

Sartorius South Africa – www.sartorius.com

Cubis® II Your Balance, Your Way

Simplifying Progress

PHARMA FOCUS

Fast and GMP-compliant labelling for reliable pharmaceutical production Establishing a valid labelling process is key in pharma manufacturing. The process also needs to be as efficient, fast and sustainable as possible. When Steierl-Pharma, based in Bavaria, Germany, needed to optimise a new labelling machine with modern inspection technology, the pharma manufacturer turned to Omron for a suitable system.

H

ardly any other industry is subject to such stringent regulations and quality requirements as the pharmaceutical industry. This applies to active ingredients, manufacturing, product storage and labelling. Labels must be robust and adhere reliably to a product’s packaging for the usability period of up to five years. Labels carry important information such as the name of the pharmaceutical product, active ingredient(s), the manufacturer, and variable data such as expiration date, lot number and serialisation information.

Steierl-Pharma is a medium-sized pharmaceutical company specialising in naturopathy. It produces medicines in liquid dosage form packaged in cylindrical glass containers with 3 600 units passing through the production line in one hour.

Its product range includes medicines for the musculoskeletal system, to lower blood pressure, for relieving migraines or skin diseases, and for treating flu-like infections.

To ensure its labelling process is both efficient and sustainable, Steierl-Pharma consulted with automation experts at Omron. Since installing a new labelling system with smart camera technology, the manufacturer can label its products reliably and at a high speed. These labels are printed with variable data on batch designation, expiration date and if required, the dispensing notice “sample not for sale”.

A CLOSER LOOK AT THE PROCESS In pharma manufacturing, good manufacturing practices (GMP)certification guarantees process integrity and conformity with applicable regulations. Steierl-Pharma holds the required manufacturing license for medicinal products as well as a GMP certificate.

The manufacturer’s filling and packaging line is designed with a

18

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

production capacity of around 3 600 units per hour. It consists of a filling and capping machine, a labeller and a packaging machine.

The line ensures a continuous and seamless process consisting of filling and closing the bottles with a dropper insert and a screw cap. The closed bottles then leave the cleanroom and enter the labeller, where they are labelled and inserted in a folding carton together with an information leaflet in the packaging machine.

new inspection system had to work particularly precisely. Bad units, such as those with an incorrect or illegible barcode or batch or expiry date errors, must be detected reliably.

Steierl-Pharma wanted a high level of specificity and sensitivity to ensure the system only detects actual bad units and ejects them from the process. And with an output of around 60 labels per minute, the inspection system needs to complete the complex inspection tasks within a time window in the range of milliseconds.

OVERCOMING HISTORICAL CHALLENGES

SMART CAMERA OFFERS ENHANCED VISUAL INSPECTION

In 2019, a project team at SteierlPharma began initial considerations to introduce a replacement for an already older labelling machine.

The labelling machine used until then already had a smart camera-based inspection system to check the identity of the label and the variable data (batch name and expiration date). However, this had two drawbacks. Labels were repeatedly misread as “bad” labels, and the units that were in fact “bad” were not being rejected, but rather stopping the labelling process.

This meant that when the machine stopped, the bottles backed up into the filling machine and the packaging machine ran empty.

“So, we had a bottleneck in our process,” reports Steffen Wegner, managing director of Steierl-Pharma.

“That’s why we worked with the machinery manufacturer Herma to find a suitable inspection system. The focus here was on high reliability and pricing.”

The aim was to develop a labelling machine that not only met GMP requirements, but also ran without interruption during regular operation.

One of the central criteria was that the

The central component in this project is the inspection system.

The FHV7 series smart camera provides illumination and image processing functionality for enhanced visual inspections

PHARMA FOCUS

Steierl-Pharma’s Herma labelling machine is equipped with an Omron FHV7 smart camera

Wegner explains: “We decided on the Omron FHV7 smart camera after running a test on our label material on site, supported by an Omron application engineer. We were effectively supported by Omron throughout the entire development process up to commissioning and qualification of the machine and beyond.”

"Just one FHV7 camera is needed to perform highprecision visual inspections of the production line to perform high-precision visual inspections of the production line" With the help of the FHV7, the Herma labelling machine at Steierl-Pharma checks the identity of the label based on the pharmaceutical code and verifies the batch number and expiration date via optical character validation (OCV) for compliance with the specifications.

The FHV7 series smart camera provides illumination and image processing functionality for enhanced visual inspections. Due to its world-first,

multi-colour light and a powerful highresolution 12-megapixel camera, just one FHV7 camera is needed to perform high-precision visual inspections of the production line.

INTUITIVE, EASY TO USE SOFTWARE During the performance qualification, the project managers involved were surprised by the extremely high specificity of the FHV7.

“We could not believe the level of reliability of the Omron FHV7 inspection system. As part of the challenge test, we deliberately introduced mislabels, all of which were reliably detected – but with a throughput of several 10 000 labels, not a single good label was incorrectly read as a bad label,” reports Wegner.

Even a single faulty unit could cause a lot of trouble in a GMP-regulated environment. By using the new camera, such situations do not occur, and the machine outages caused by the incorrect reading of actual good units can also be prevented.

Another advantage of the Omron camera is the software, which is intuitive to use and does not require lengthy training.

“I also really like the option of a customisable user interface, and so do the users. There is only one window in

which, for example, the target code, batch designation and expiration date can be entered. Code verification and OCV can also be performed. It’s all very clear and simple,” explains Wegner.

The software runs on any current Windows system and communicates directly with the FHV7 via the local network.

He also praised the high inspection speed of the Omron system. The complex individual inspection of a label takes just 80 milliseconds, which Wegner says is “impressively fast”.

Steierl-Pharma is very satisfied with the new labeller and Omron’s inspection technology.

“In a highly regulated environment such as the pharmaceutical industry, manufacturers must be able to fully rely on the technology they implement while successfully completing the qualification thereof. This was the case at SteierlPharma,” says Wegner. “The cooperation with the sales and application team has been excellent.”

Since Steierl-Pharma has had such a positive experience with Omron, it is planning to convert an existing packaging machine to Omron inspection technology in the near future. •

Omron – industrial.omron.co.za Steierl-Pharma – www.steierl.de

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2022

19

PHARMA FOCUS

€25m investment to strengthen Roquette’s position in polyols market Roquette, a global leader in plant-based ingredients and a leading provider of pharmaceutical excipients, has announced an investment plan at its site in Lestrem, France. This will see the company’s capacity to produce liquid and powder polyols increased between 2022 and 2024.

T

he major investment of €25m by Roquette will establish a strong and reliable supply in the long run and will strengthen the company’s position as a leader in polyols.

Roquette remains deeply committed to upgrading its facilities, which is crucial in the challenging and fast-moving markets in which its customers operate. Investing in polyols was and is a strategic decision for the group to better address customers’ expectations over the long term.

According to Roquette, the site in Lestrem is the largest polyol plant in the world, offering a wide variety of products. This investment will improve equipment efficiency and increase safety standards. It will also help to standardise some industrial operations, contributing to an overall production performance improvement. Evolution of this kind also ensures a sustainable supply in the market and helps to meet customers’ increasing expectations for greater flexibility.

KEY PRODUCTS FOR THE PHARMA MARKET Polyols are fundamental excipients for the pharmaceutical industry. Thanks to Roquette’s superior quality standards, polyols are wellknown and appreciated as excipients in oral dosage forms. They are directly compressible and aid the formulation of all types of tablets.

Some polyols are adapted for swallowable, chewable, dispersible or effervescent tablet

Roquette’s site based in Lestrem, France is said to be the largest polyol plant in the world

"Thanks to Roquette’s superior quality standards, polyols are well-known and appreciated as excipients in oral dosage forms" applications. The higher purity grades are also active pharmaceutical ingredients approved by worldwide drug administrations and widely used in injectable solutions or in dialysis applications.

In addition, polyols are essential ingredients for oral care applications, relying on key properties and functionalities such as noncrystallising humectants, non-cariogenic or shelf-life enhancers.

POLYOLS FOR HEALTHIER AND TASTY FOOD The demand for nutritional solutions is dramatically increasing, driven by the fastincreasing trend for healthier lifestyles and more sustainable food. According to Euromonitor, the market for healthier food products is expected to grow by about 15% in value between 2021 and 2026.

Thanks to the nutritional benefits they offer, polyols are addressing this trend. Produced from plant-based raw materials such as maize or wheat, polyols are principally used as sugar alternatives in food products such as sugarreduced or sugar-free confectionery, chocolate, chewing gum, baked goods or snacks. The numerous scientific publications on the nutritional benefits of polyols for the human body are evidence of the positive impact they have when it comes to a healthy and wellbalanced diet.

STRENGTHENED GLOBAL INDUSTRIAL FOOTPRINT According to Pascal Leroy, senior vicepresident of core ingredients at Roquette: “Today, Roquette is recognised as a global leader in polyols. We are uniquely positioned to address customers’ needs as we strive to be the best partner in the polyols markets, offering a wide range, very well-adapted to all markets and backed by a global network of service and technical assistance. Thanks to this investment, we will now strengthen the reliability of supply and our global industrial footprint.”

As a pioneer of plant proteins and a leading provider of pharmaceutical excipients, Roquette addresses current and future societal challenges by unlocking the potential of nature to offer the best ingredients for food, nutrition and health markets. The group is represented throughout Southern Africa by Azelis. • Azelis – www.azelis.com Roquette – www.roquette.com

20

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

COMPANY FOCUS

RMB Corvest and Umoya Capital Partners invest in the pharma industry A private equity consortium, comprising RMB Corvest and Umoya Capital Partners alongside management and Calibre Capital, have recently invested in Brunel Laboratoria.

The deal broadens Brunel’s BEE empowerment, while extending RMB Corvest’s portfolio in the fast-growing healthcare sector.

Did you know?

Elev8 (formulated with Zembrin, a highly-effective plant-based active pharmaceutical ingredient) is a natural mood enhancer and helps with symptoms of stress and anxiety. This complementary medicine is used by the SANDF for post-traumatic stress because it is an inexpensive natural alternative that is effective.

UNRIVALLED QUALITY AND INCREASED DISTRIBUTION

B

runel is a pharmaceutical brand owner and distributor, with a portfolio of products spanning scheduled and complementary medicines, health supplements and dispensary consumables segments. The business has been operating in South Africa for over 40 years and has a well-established consumer base.

Based in Gauteng, the company has a broad product portfolio and is proud to assist customers in helping consumers to “live well with Brunel”. Its brands include Mist Alba, Famucaps, B.Co, Multivit, Elev8 and Hot Toddy, among a range of others.

Hot Toddy is a natural alternative brand that competes with major household names in its category. The Hot Toddy range houses everything to treat the symptoms of colds and flu the natural way.

RMB Corvest was attracted

by Brunel’s brands and distribution capabilities, which provide barriers to entry and Geoff Wilmot of a leading position in a growing RMB Corvest market. The business is led by an impressive management team, as demonstrated by its four decades of success.

“The business has a strong track record in its chosen markets with several tangible

22

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

growth opportunities that we believe the new shareholders will help unlock,” says Geoff Wilmot of RMB Corvest.

A CONSUMER-FOCUSED BUSINESS As a pharmaceutical brand owner, which owns all the respective product intellectual property associated with its brands, innovation within Brunel revolves primarily around further developing existing products and in developing new products and new markets.

"Brunel’s resources are centred on servicing and reaching selected markets and segments with the right products and pricing" As the business is highly consumerfocused, Brunel’s resources are centred on servicing and reaching selected markets and segments with the right products and pricing.

“Our interactions with Brunel management prior to the deal allowed us to see the team as driven, while being very knowledgeable regarding its operations and industry,” says Menzi Khoza of RMB Corvest. “We believe this bodes well for our partnership, particularly as they already have experience with a PE partner.”

Quality is at the centre of all that Brunel stands for and because the company holds all the necessary licences to operate in the pharmaceutical market, its quality will never be compromised.

The management team is excited about the growth path of Brunel, both organically and in what it hopes to achieve through selected merger and acquisition activity. Brunel has been servicing Menzi Khoza of consumers for 47 years and it has RMB Corvest become a household name.

Brunel CEO Paul Jonker says: “We look forward to working with our new partners, leveraging their expertise while continuing with the solid platform laid out by the existing management team. We are confident that this new partnership will drive growth opportunities and add significant value to our business and our long-term market strategy.” Brunel will continue to be consumer-focused and bring affordable, quality products to the market at the right prices.

“We will also continue to open up channels of distribution to make it easier for our consumers to access our products nationally,” Jonker concludes. •

Brunel – www.brunel.co.za RMB Corvest – www.rmbcorvest.co.za Umoya Capital Partners – www.umoyacapital.co.za

RMB CORVEST

GROWTH FORMULA Brunel expects healthy expansion from partnering with RMB Corvest.

Brunel has a strong position in the thriving pharmaceutical sector. By collaborating with Umoya Capital Partners, we optimised Brunel’s BEE credentials for access to growth opportunities. Applying our expertise in private equity, we concluded a leveraged buyout to partner with Brunel, empowering us all to reach new heights.

Grow your business: Call +27 11 380 8300 Visit rmbcorvest.co.za Or scan QR code

CORVEST

a Proprietary Limited. Reg No. 2014/123609/07. A member of the FirstRand Banking

PRIVATE EQUITY

CLEANING, HYGIENE & DISINFECTION

Choosing the right disinfectants for cleanrooms

and factors influencing their performance To maintain a high level of cleanliness, a sound cleaning and disinfection system needs to be established and controlled. This is key to manufacturing quality products, meeting regulatory requirements and ensuring patient safety. Sascha Rother of basan highlights basic considerations regarding disinfectant choices and provides guidance on the factors impacting the performance of cleaning operators.

T

he rule of thumb is that no disinfectant will tick all the boxes.

The best approach is to pick the right disinfectant (or a combination thereof) for the right application and prevailing in-house flora.

Some observations made in South Africa are that manufacturers of pharmaceutical and nutraceutical products will only use one disinfectant or two products with a similar chemical composition and basically the same kill range. In some instances, manufacturers will only apply a sporicidal product. According to EC GMP and ISO 13408.3 Part 11.1.8 rotating two different disinfectants to reduce the potential risk of developing resistant strains should form part of your regime.

Environmental monitoring is required to understand the in-house flora and decide on the most suitable disinfectants. The daily disinfection should be a biocide that has broadspectrum efficacy effective against vegetative organisms, e.g. gramnegative and gram-positive bacteria.

The rotational product is commonly a sporicidal product. The choice and frequency are determined based on the prevailing organisms. The usage of sporicidal products should be minimised as they can potentially damage

Did you know?

Grade A/B cleanrooms require a separate cleaning step to remove potential dirt, grease and residues. This is done with a neutral detergent.

24

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

It is important to achieve the required contact time after applying the disinfectant

surfaces, require special PPE or leave residues if not removed.

CONTACT TIME AND KILL RATE Choosing suitable products is only half the job. There are multiple factors than can determine the effectiveness of a cleaning and disinfection system – which are highlighted in this article.

It is essential to understand and follow the instructions printed on the labels of disinfectant products. It is also of utmost importance to achieve the required contact time. If after applying the disinfectant a surface dried up before the required contact time, it is unlikely that the kill rate will have been achieved as per manufacturer recommendation.

"It is essential to understand and follow the instructions printed on the labels of disinfectant products" Contact time can sometimes be a challenge if it’s 10 to 15 minutes, especially in areas with high air changes. Chances are also that operators might spray and wipe without waiting long enough. This is why shorter contact times are easier to adhere to.

So-called “ready-to-use products” reduce the potential for operator errors.

Concentrates require correct dilution,

CLEANING, HYGIENE & DISINFECTION

Revolutionising industrial cleaning with dry ice blasting Dry ice blasting is revolutionising industrial cleaning in South Africa. This non-abrasive, non-toxic innovative cleaning method saves times and leads to increased productivity. By Abby Vorster

To achieve the best possible results in cleaning and disinfection, cleaning staff must be equipped with suitable cleanroom cleaning tools that meet the demands of the facility

because a concentration that is too high can leave residues and increase cost, while overdilution will not achieve the required kill rate.

Whilst most disinfectants are tested at 20°C and the temperature in cleanrooms is usually quite stable, there are some concerns when it comes to cold stores in cleanrooms. This is not only due to higher humidity but also lower temperatures, which could necessitate longer contact times. Additional validation might also be required.

TRAINING, SUITABLE TOOLS AND TYPES OF SURFACES The combination of application equipment, operator and technique are essential factors in a successful cleaning and disinfection regime. Operators do require continuous training on cleanroom topics and the correct application of the relevant company SOPs. Providing cleaning staff with suitable cleanroom cleaning tools, which meet the demands of the facility, is important to achieve the best possible results and to minimise operator errors and avoid taking short cuts. It is also important to review cleaning and disinfection SOPs to check for their practicality and ease of understanding. The provided tools, chemicals and cleaning techniques in the SOPs shouldn’t be a stumbling block to a successful cleaning and disinfection regime.

Other factors affecting the performance of a cleaning and disinfection system are the types of surfaces as well as shelf life. It’s obvious that expired products shouldn’t be used.

Some companies tend to blend their own disinfectants to save costs but typically won’t go through the comprehensive product development cycle and testing of products. Those would include stability and efficacy testing, mode of action, material compatibility, residues etc. Comprehensive testing, change control and guaranteed quality as well as batch-specific certificates (COA – Certificate of Analysis, COI / COS certificate of irradiation / sterility) are part of the regulatory expectations.

Whilst from an end-user perspective the chance of cost saving seems easy, chances are that these can lead to regulatory findings or even worse, can cause a microbiological contamination in the cleanroom or final product. Product recalls and reputational damage outweigh the cost of using the right products suitable for the dedicated area. •

basan – www.basan.co.za

T

he cleaning method is ideal for a variety of industrial equipment and it can be applied in various industrial settings from pharmaceutical and medical to food and beverage manufacturing, printing and packaging, contract cleaning etc.

In the pharmaceutical industry, dry ice cleaning can be used to blast clean stainless-steel containers, reactors, mixers, tablet moulds and separators. It offers several benefits in comparison to traditional cleaning methods and steam cleaning, such as the elimination of harmful bacteria and micro-organisms. The cleaning method does not create secondary waste or chemical residues and it is non-abrasive.

QUICKER CLEANING THAT IS ECO-FRIENDLY Based in Soweto, Kool in Ice now offers dry ice cleaning throughout Gauteng. Kgotso Mashinini founded the business six years ago as a supplier of dry ice and ice cubes to retailers, restaurants and pubs.

He recently expanded into dry ice blasting with a focus on cleaning industrial and manufacturing equipment.

The dry ice blasting process is a dry, non-toxic and nonabrasive method of cleaning, which is faster, more thorough and environmentally friendly. It also allows for the elimination of environmentally harmful cleaning chemicals and worker exposure to hazardous cleaning agents.

A SUPERIOR CLEANING METHOD Unlike other blast media, dry ice is frozen CO 2 at a temperature of -78.5°C. Dry ice blasting utilises 3mm dry ice pellets, which are accelerated in a pressurised air stream and subsequently directed at the surface to be cleaned.

The dry ice freezes the dirt on impact and rapidly sublimates while the CO 2 gas removes frozen dirt without causing damage or abrasion to the surface. Because of the temperature difference between the dry ice particles and the surface being treated, thermal shock occurs during the process aided by kinetic energy. This causes a breakdown of the bond between the two dissimilar materials and results in what Mashinini says “is a far superior method Kgotso Mashinini, founder of Kool in Ice of cleaning”. • Kool in Ice – www.koolinice.co.za/dry-ice-blasting

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2022

25

CLEANING, HYGIENE & DISINFECTION

Leveraging digitalisation to optimise hygienic processing The new Alfa Laval CM Connect marks the next step in the digitalisation journey to drive innovation and growth for customers in the hygienic processing industries. CM Connect is a subscription-based condition monitor and cloud gateway. It enables plant operators to access data of rotating equipment on processing lines from a remote location.

A

s Industry 4.0 evolves, CM Connect is natural progression on a manufacturer’s digitalisation journey, expanding the Alfa Laval range of condition monitoring solutions. With complete visibility of all connected assets, plant operators can detect issues that impact future performance, prevent unplanned downtime and improve asset management.

With data on actual runtime, trend analysis and service intervals close at hand, plant operators can make informed maintenance decisions using their personal computers and mobile devices. This protects process continuity and critical assets, improves workplace safety, saves time and money, and delivers competitive advantage.

MAXIMISE EFFICIENCY WHILE MINIMISING UNPLANNED DOWNTIME Acting as a gateway communicating via Bluetooth, CM Connect can link up to 10 Alfa Laval CM wireless vibration monitors launched last year.

It then transmits the data over a 4G cellular network to the cloud for review and analysis on an intuitive, user-friendly dashboard.

Did you know?

Did you know that more than 90% of the contact surfaces in a hygienic production line come from tubes and fittings? With smooth, crevice-free interiors and secure, self-aligning joints, Alfa Laval’s comprehensive range of DIN tubes and fittings is specifically designed for the biotech/pharma process applications.

26

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

With data on actual runtime, trend analysis and service intervals close at hand, plant operators can make informed maintenance decisions using their personal computers and mobile devices

Advanced vibration analysis enables detection of any deviation from preset equipment threshold values. Should deviations occur, an SMS or e-mail notifies users who can take action in real time based on data analysis.

FOCUS ON WHAT MATTERS “CM Connect lets plant operators plan and prioritise maintenance based on actionable data,” says John Walker, portfolio manager, pumps, Alfa Laval. “Rather than replacing wear parts in advance of their useful service life, operators can spend time and money when and where maintenance is required.”

Besides linking the CM wireless vibration monitors, CM Connect can also act as a sensor.

"CM Connect lets plant operators plan and prioritise maintenance based on actionable data" It measures vibration, inboard temperature and total runtime when mounted on Alfa Laval LKH, SRU, SX and DuraCirc pumps, or other rotating machines, such as agitators or mixers.

As part of the company’s commitment to pioneering digital transformation in the hygienic industries, Alfa Laval explores and develops Industry 4.0 solutions to advance competitive advantage for customers. •

Alfa Laval – www.alfalaval.com/cmconnect

ETHNIC CARE

Next-gen emollient offers a sustainable alternative to silicones After many years of research and conscious innovation, Seppic has launched Emogreen HP 40. The introduction of this sustainable and biobased emollient comes at a significant time when the sustainability profile and performance of ingredients are increasingly being challenged. Emogreen HP 40 is a versatile texturising ingredient and highly compatible in formulation design.

T

his newcomer from Seppic extends the highly-pure and sustainable Emogreen™ range of emollients. Obtained using a patented process, Emogreen™ HP 40 is a textured and slightly viscous emollient. It offers an effective and sustainable alternative to heavy silicones, mineral oils and other synthetic emollients.

Emogreen HP 40 is 100% plant-based, patented and inherently biodegradable, offering brands and manufacturers a formulation technology with a more virtuous environmental footprint.

It imparts film-forming properties with a smooth enveloping and supple after-feel and no tacky effect. This outstanding multifaceted capacity will significantly enhance the efficacy and preferred performance of any type of cosmetic application, from skin care and makeup to sun care etc.

EXCITING THERMAL PROTECTION PERFORMANCE The thermal protection performance* of this emollient is something to be acknowledged by brand owners, manufacturers and end-users of hair care products. Emogreen HP 40 offers the same sensory and application benefits of silicones such as dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, but without their greasy and sticky sensation drawbacks.

It also helps to preserve the keratin structure of hair during thermal treatment in order to maintain its health and to protect it. The emollient offers additional performance benefits such as anti-frizz, volume control and easy combing – all of which have been demonstrated as a result of the product’s substantivity on the hair fibre and its ability to smoothen hair scales. Check out Table 1 for a high-performance precious hair oil formulation featuring Emogreen HP 40.

AUGMENTING SUSTAINABLE FORMULATION DESIGN Available in South Africa from CJP Chemicals, this multifunctional ingredient is highly compatible with other formulation ingredients, easy to use and cold processable.

With this new launch, Seppic consolidates its position as a social and environmentally responsible supplier to the hair care industry.

Jennifer Fryscher, Seppic’s emollients product manager, comments: “Emogreen HP 40 widens the field of possibilities for responsible and sustainable formulation design in the hair care industry, addressing demands in terms of efficacy and custom-made care.” •

Table 1: Precious hair oil (EU07746) Phase

Ingredients Lanol 2681

Did you know?

Dimethiconol-based mixes have been widely used in hair care products to improve hair’s appearance and texture. Yet, their use is on the decline as a result of the synthetic origin of dimethiconol and its negative impact on the environment. As there is an increased need for an effective alternative, Seppic presents Emogreen HP 40 as an ideal solution.

A

% Up to 100%

Emogreen™ (1) HP 40

5.00%

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil

5.00%

Cocos Nucifera Oil

20.00%

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

20.00%

SEA SATIN™

1.00%

Fragrance

0.20%

Tocopherol

0.20%

This velvety gliding oil offers volume control and curl retention for shiny hair

Organic Raw and Refined Shea Butter Avocado Butter Organic Grape Seed Oil Organic Castor oil Hydrolysed Wheat Protein Olivem 1000, 900 & 300 Rhassoul & Bentonite clays BTMS 25%

Natural Hair Care Ingredients www.nauticaorganics.com 083 266 2657

*assessment of the thermal protection of Emogreen HP 40 alone and in formulation via the measurement of keratin deterioration by Xpolar technology (Kmax Innovative System) on healthy Caucasian hair after 50 passes of heat treatment at 210°C.

CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Seppic – www.seppic.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2022

27

ETHNIC CARE

Green repairing protein for beautiful textured hair For the sake of health, wellness and authenticity, ethnic consumers are embracing their natural hair.

Increasingly, they understand that hair health is the foundation of beautiful hair and are becoming well practiced in avoiding certain ingredients to prevent damage. Ethnic consumers also expect specific product performance attributes to help them achieve their hair goals. In line with these consumer insights, Symrise offers a portfolio of innovative scalp and hair fibre solutions.

I

n terms of consumer attitudes and behaviours, a “clean” product is both literal and figurative in terms of its receptivity among ethnic consumers. This is especially true with the growing focus on clean hair and scalp care. While consumers want effective products to maintain their hair and scalp, they would prefer products made with natural or plant-based ingredients.

Keratin is an example of a well-known protein for hair repair and force improvement, yet because it is derived from an animal source, more and more consumers are choosing to avoid it in their hair care regime.

PLANT-BASED KERATIN ALTERNATIVE A few years ago, Symrise introduced SymHair Restore® as a plant-based alternative to animal-derived keratin. This natural smart protein has been proven effective in repairing damaged hair, reducing hair breakage and split ends and in improving hair gloss, force and elasticity.

SymHair Restore is based on an extraction of Gliadin, which is a unique wheat protein with superior natural substantivity and film forming properties. The smart protein is both whole and Figure 1

untransformed. Because both conventional hydrolysed protein and damaged areas on hair have negative charges, this leads to the decrease in substantivity. SymHair Restore does not have a negative charge, so it binds better to hair’s damaged areas and can repair split ends.

28

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Phase

A

OBJECTIVE AND METHODOLOGY To determine the effect of the plant-based keratin on the mechanical properties of hair, Symrise conducted a study comparing SymHair Restore to hydrolysed keratin. The team used a tensile assessment for the evaluation.

Study 1 methodology – ex vivo: Two test groups were included in the comparison.

A shampoo formulated with 1.0% SymHair Restore and conditioner with 1.0% SymHair Restore was used for the active group, while the keratin group used hydrolysed keratin at 2% in shampoo and 2% in conditioner. Three bleached Caucasian hair tresses were selected per treatment. Five applications of test products were performed. After application, 45 fibres were collected from each tress and analysed using the tensile test.

Study 2 methodology – fluorescence microscopy: SymHair Restore was marked with fluoresce dye (Rhodamine) and applied in damaged hair. The hair was damaged by combing it 200 times and bleaching it.

Thereafter the intensity of fluorescence was analysed.

CONCLUSION AND APPLICATIONS

Fluorescence microscopy images showing the adsorption result of SymHair Restore

Table 1: Texturised hair mayonnaise

The study results show that SymHair Restore binds better to the hair in damaged areas. The tip region is more damaged than the root region, as the fluorescence is more intense (see Figure 1).

This adsorption or desorption proves the binding effect.

SymHair Restore has a similar amino acid composition as hair keratin and it performs similar to hydrolysed keratin even with half of the dosage.

B

Ingredients

%

Aqua/Water

43.482

Glycerin 99.5%

1.500

D-Panthenol USP

0.500

SymOcide® PS (510179)

1.000

Cetiol® AB

1.500

Olive Oil CA (620010)

0.500

Incroquat™ Behenyl TMS

1.000

Lanette® D

2.000

Genamin SPA

0.500

Coconut Oil (Refined) (660279)

0.500

C

Aqua/Water

D

Conditioneze™ 37E PC

1.000

SymHair® Restore (710115)

1.000

SymHair® Shape & Colour (805457)

0.500

F

Lactic Acid 90% Nat.

0.150

G

Parfum

0.200

E

H

44.180

Food Colour Tartrazine 85% E102 C.I.19140 0.5% solution (100296)

0.187

Food Colour Azorubin 85% E122 C.I.14720 0.1% solution (100293)

0.225

Food Colour Blue E133/ C.I.42090 0.01% Solution (100301)

0.076

This medium-weight emulsion is packed with anti-breakage, hair resistance, deep restoration and lipid-rebuilding benefits

Although this test was conducted on Caucasian hair tresses, SymHair Restore is highly suited to products for textured hair. Check out Table 1 for formulation inspiration using SymHair Restore in nourishing hair mayonnaise that improves hair’s resistance and helps rebuild lipids for shiny, healthier-looking textured hair. • Symrise – www.symrise.com

Hair Actives

AMAZING HAIR INSIDE OUT

Experience our creativity in the latest evaluation technologies and highly efficient solutions dedicated to the areas of hair repair & conditioning, color protection, anti-pollution, anti-hair loss, scalp care and eyelash enhancement.

Addressing and investigating all key aspects of hair complexity.

COSMETIC INGREDIENTS BY SYMRISE always inspiring more ... www.symselect.com I www.symrise.com Follow us on Instagram @symrise.ci

INDUSTRY TALK

‘Beauty brands need to embrace the collective good’ – Mintel For beauty brands to survive, it is no longer enough to have a great product. Consumers expect brands to have a real purpose and to use their power to help engender genuine social change for all. In a new Future Forward report, Mintel offers a definitive guide to this purpose, including consumer and market data, expert opinions and the foresight needed to navigate the future of the beauty industry.

T

he exclusive consumer research carried out for the Future Forward report shows

that “avoiding harmful ingredients” (48%) is still the top priority in terms of what consumers want from their beauty brands. They want to keep themselves safe. However, consumers’ expectations are set to dramatically shift from the individual to the collective.

To gather these latest findings, Mintel combined its expert beauty and wellness analysts and thought leaders with an elite group of beauty industry insiders and investors. Together, the collective teams developed a strategic brief for leaders within the beauty, wellness and personal care industries.

According to Mintel research, consumers want businesses to be honest with them about their business practices (29%) and to pay their employees fairly (21%). Meanwhile, 15% of consumers also want to see brands be more inclusive by designing products for people from all backgrounds and abilities. And with the younger generations most focused on these issues, there is undoubtedly a need for brands to shift focus.

BRAVING THE PATH OF PURPOSE Whilst brands know that purpose is a path to be taken, there are many that have yet to brave it.

“In the coming years, brands will risk calls of tokenism if they do not plan to be at the forefront. Those that embrace it with courage and creativity will capture more consumer hearts

30

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

and more sales,” Jane Henderson, chairman, Mintel Beauty and Wellness, explains. “Brands must be prepared for consumers to care more than ever about inclusivity, as well as the dignity of employees and the impact of their business around the world, as we see people become increasingly concerned about the greater good. With the younger generations more passionate about wider social change than their older counterparts, it is a trend that is set to keep growing.”

SHIFT FROM INDIVIDUAL TO THE COLLECTIVE Focusing on the collective doesn’t just apply to individual brands, it applies to the industry as a whole. Indeed, the greatest shift in vision that we will see in the next five years is one of collaboration. To achieve real change, brands must work together, not against each other.

“Brands will no longer view one another as competitors, but as allies tackling a common cause. Those that fail to collaborate and, instead, seek individual attention will find themselves at the mercy of a growing group of proactive consumers, who will call out their behaviour. Negative sentiment will run high if brands fail to collaborate or contribute,” says Henderson.

DO MORE FOR THE PLANET No discussion about purpose would be complete without looking at the environment. Mintel research shows that consumers are increasingly looking for more

"47% of consumers want labels to clearly show the environmental impact of a product" ambitious commitments by companies and brands to protect the environment.

While 34% of consumers say they expect brands to follow environmental regulations, the group of consumers who want brands to take this further, is growing. In fact, a similar proportion (30%) want beauty brands to do what’s best for the earth, even at the expense of margins.

What’s more, half of consumers (48%) now want brands to show the direct impact their purchases have on the environment, such as one tree planted for every purchase. A similar proportion (47%) want labels to clearly show the environmental impact of a product.

“In today’s world, consumers want more than just a product. They want to put their money where their values are.

More people will consciously invest in a brand that is aligned with their values, becoming so invested that they are prepared to build a shared legacy. Expect to see a growing consciousness among consumers of their impact on the world around them and an expectation that companies will absolutely do their part to help,” Henderson concludes. •

Mintel – www.mintel.com

It’s easy to connect with us online!

There are so many benefits to registering on the P&C Review website. You’ll gain free and instant access to every digital edition of the magazine, which you can download in PDF format and save. You’ll also gain access to loads of industry news and other relevant and useful content.

REGISTER

www.b2bcentral.co.za/register/

FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA LinkedIn

www.linkedin.com/company/ pharmaceutical-cosmetic-review

Facebook

www.facebook.com/ PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview

FORMULATION

DES GN

DID YOU KNOW,

we’re launching a new Formulation Design e-book?

bit.ly/FormulationDesignSignup

www.pharmacos.co.za

INDUSTRY TALK

How to approach demand planning in the ‘new normal’

The last two years have been particularly challenging for the South African economy. Lockdowns had the unintended consequence of causing economic turmoil and have negatively impacted the use of established demand planning models. As we enter the ‘new normal’, it’s imperative industries revise their demand planning and forecasting models now.

D

Dr Dana Braithwaite, research consultant at BMi Research

r Dana Braithwaite, research consultant at BMi Research, says: “What worked in the past as far as demand planning is concerned no longer works, primarily because the factors that impact the market have shifted.”

The economic frameworks of industries which contribute to South Africa’s gross domestic product suffered long-term consequences.

“Lockdown regulations have potentially permanently affected the way people live, work and Jenni-Ruth shop and many industries Coggin, CEO of BMi Research have experienced significant structural changes.”

While consumers and businesses adapt to a ‘new normal’, one of the consequences is that the old or traditional way of doing things often no longer works. The horizon for demand planning is usually eight to eighteen months, with an emphasis on lead time. However, the pandemic has put paid to this lead time.

PRODUCTION SCHEDULES AND RAW MATERIAL DEMAND “Many businesses are struggling to plan ahead, particularly as far as production and raw material demand is concerned,” says Braithwaite. “What is becoming increasingly apparent, for example, is that raw material price changes are much more rapid than they were pre-COVID-19. Historically, the price of raw materials was fixed for longer periods.

Since the onset of the pandemic, however, prices have fluctuated significantly.”

Container arrival times have become far less predictable. With fewer shipping routes and less freight availability, transport costs have risen significantly and require much longer lead times.

Force majeures have also had an impact, often negatively affecting production schedules.

Braithwaite says the situation has been exacerbated by global political shifts, including the potential for increased areas of conflict and the risk of further lockdowns.

32

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

GAIN A COMPETITIVE EDGE IN THE ‘NEW NORMAL’

NAVIGATING POWER OUTAGES AND INFLATION Another issue local companies have to contend with is failing municipal infrastructure. This is resulting in constrained energy supply, crumbling waste water treatments, the risk of water cuts, poor road conditions and insufficient rail capacity. Add to this the volatile political environment, xenophobia, the potential for social unrest and high rates of unemployment – and the list of challenges keeps growing.

“There is also a significant decline in disposable income in many households due to the low-growth economy, which has resulted in reduced consumer spending on a volume and value basis,” she says.

When combined, these factors play havoc with traditional demand planning models.

A demand plan typically – although not exclusively – starts with a statistical forecast using historical data. It is layered with additional intelligence, including causal events, experimental methods and judgemental factors. Economic data such as exchange rates and fluctuations can also be layered into the forecast.

Braithwaite explains: “Now is a good time for companies to start probing the factors currently in play, whether or not they are permanent and even if the old ways of looking at the market are likely to come back into play.”

Economic factors such as exchange rates or GDP projections have always formed part of demand planning models. Yet, each industry needs to take into consideration their specific, relevant factors. These include temperature, legislation, changes in income, consumers’ taste and preferences, technology and competitive strategies.

“Many of these specific factors have been determined relevant thanks to years of practical application by players in the industry,” says Braithwaite.

However, the ‘new normal’ requires industry to rebuild a profile of itself, re-examining the different factors as follows: • How healthy is the industry?

• How confident are industry leaders?

• What are the factors influencing demand planning and production schedules, how important are they, and are they permanent or temporary?

• How is demand planning being implemented by the industry to cope with these new factors?

BMi Research can help to develop an overview of each industry and examine the new trends making an impact, including specific factors such as legislation, shifts in consumer behaviour, the availability and the price of raw materials, amongst others.

Jenni-Ruth Coggin, CEO of BMi Research, explains: “The assessment can address challenges and bottlenecks, and how businesses in a given industry can predict demand shifts, perhaps speeding up previous practical application and experience. Once these shifts have been identified, the challenge will be to quickly respond to these new factors.” •

BMi Research – www.bmi.co.za

A full-service experience

Review Ishida Europe has extended its range of QX Flex tray sealers with the launch of a new model, which meets market demands for a compact, high-performance solution. The innovative model also maximises output, capacity and flexibility for medium- to high-volume production lines.

Sustainability is an integral part of Multivac’s strategy. For 60 years, the company’s packaging solutions have ensured that sensitive products globally can be processed efficiently, as well as being packed hygienically, reliably and attractively.

Rotolabel is passionate about the environment and focuses on minimising any negative ecological impact of its products. The company subscribes to the four Rs of packaging sustainability: responsible sourcing; reduction of materials; recyclability and increased recycled content

Read more in the latest issue of Packaging Review Out Now! ADVERTISING

Interested in advertising in PACKAGING REVIEW? If you are a supplier to the packaging industry, this will be an ideal opportunity to showcase your product offering and create additional brand awareness within the food, beverage, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, personal care, and home care manufacturing sectors.

Contact our advertising sales executives to book your space: Anita Raath Sales executive +27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive +27 (0)83 260 6060

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive +27 (0)71 438 1918

SIGNUP

INDUSTRY TALK

Small businesses and their big impact on the South African economy South Africa has hundreds of thousands of small businesses – so many that they contribute over 40% of our country’s gross domestic product. Small businesses also employ two-thirds of all local workers. This means that the more support they receive, the more people they can employ and the more successful our country becomes.

AFRICA’S LEADING SME ORGANISATION

O

ver 10 years ago, the National Small Business Chamber (NSBC) established Small Business Friday. Now in its 11th year, the initiative, which is sponsored by Absa, has become South Africa’s biggest small business movement. March 2022 marked the launch of this year’s Small Business Friday season.

“Small Business Friday is when we salute and celebrate the mainstay of our economy and the engine of our society, placing extra emphasis on mobilising the nation to go big by supporting the small,” says Mike Anderson, NSBC founder and CEO. This year, once again, the NSBC and Absa anticipates enormous, nationwide support for this unmatched and meaningful movement. It’s a 365-day drive that elevates every Friday and peaks on Small Business Friday – the biggest small business day of the year, which always falls on the first Friday of spring every year.

The aim is to mobilise and encourage the nation to give greater support towards

34

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

small businesses. If more can support local small businesses, these small businesses will be able to build their infrastructure and employ more individuals from local communities, alleviating unemployment and driving job creation. This is meaningful nation building.

CONNECTING COMMUNITIES WITH SMES Small Business Friday continues to put small businesses across South Africa in the spotlight, by encouraging consumers, business and government to support, visit and spend at a small business, all year round, especially on Fridays and particularly on Small Business Friday.

“As part of broader efforts to transform the economic competitiveness of the country, Absa is fully committed to support SMEs along their journey by building strong relationships with them and creating innovative solutions that meet their unique needs,” says Christine Wu, managing executive for customer value management at Absa Retail and

Established in 2007, the NSBC is a non-profit membership organisation and the driving force fuelling small business growth. The real purpose behind the organisation is fostering the sustainability and growth of the SME sector, driving job creation, alleviating unemployment and nurturing the country’s entrepreneurial spirit. The NSBC has a current base of over 141 000 SMEs and 80 big brands as national partners. The NSBC has also become the largest organisation of its kind in Africa and one of the fastest growing organisations of its kind in the world.

Business Bank. “The launch of the Absa Small Business Friday campaign underscores our commitment to this vital segment and connecting individuals to communities.”

In terms of the Absa Small Business Friday campaign, Absa Rewards customers who shop at participating SME outlets on Fridays will earn double cash back when they use their Absa card to pay at an Absa card machine. In addition, participating SMEs will be profiled on a dedicated Small Business Portal and will receive cash rewards when they reach certain monthly milestones across their Absa card machines. These rewards will be paid into their transactional accounts.

“By connecting Absa Rewards customers with SMEs, we hope to highlight the important role individuals can play to support small businesses and amplify the ‘ME’ in ‘SME’,” Wu adds.

INDUSTRY TALK

"Small Business Friday is when we salute and celebrate the mainstay of our economy and the engine of our society "

ENCOURAGING SUPPORT FOR SMALL BUSINESSES The launch follows the introduction of the Absa Business Evolve transactional offering, which was designed with the flexibility to evolve as these businesses develop and grow. To support the unique needs of SMEs, Absa also recently

launched Absa Mobile Pay, a market-first, mobile payment acceptance solution.

“Small Business Friday has gained incredible momentum over the past ten years, and it remains important to keep reminding people to get involved and support small businesses”, says Anderson.

Small businesses and start-ups provide more than just jobs for community members. They also can improve innovation and productivity on a local level and use other businesses in the community such as accounting and IT, while larger businesses develop their own infrastructure.

With more support, small businesses have the potential to breathe new life into the South African economy and play an even bigger role in economic growth and job creation. Small businesses represent countless hours of hard work, commitment, resilience, and thousands of jobs.

When South Africans support the small, they make a big impact.

Providing as much support to small businesses as possible is an investment in our communities and South Africa’s collective economic future.

WHY EVERYONE SHOULD GET INVOLVED What can you do to support this allimportant movement?

• think differently and build a habit of supporting small businesses • act today by changing where you make your purchases • spread the word amongst friends, family and colleagues.

By supporting small businesses, it creates more jobs, develops local communities and makes a meaningful difference to building the nation.

Small business is the mainstay of our economy. Support for local small businesses has a real impact on creating jobs and alleviating unemployment. Small businesses create more jobs locally. If one million SMEs could each employ just one extra person, this would translate into one million new jobs.

Support the innovators, the job creators, the ones who dare to dream, the hard workers and big thinkers who aren’t afraid of humble beginnings – support the nation builders because your choice matters. •

NSBC – www.nsbc.africa/small-business-friday

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2022

35

PACKAGING

Reimagining plastics – from waste to value Dow has invested in Kenya’s Mr. Green Africa to enable further diversion of plastic waste from informal dumpsites and the environment. The investment will also drive positive change among communities, address inadequacies in existing waste management systems and close the loop on plastics waste across Africa.

F

or Dow, this investment is the first of its kind on the African continent. It is expected to enable approximately 90 kilotonnes of plastic waste to be recovered over four years and recycled into new packaging applications. With the support from Dow and other investors, Mr. Green Africa plans to expand its Kenyan operations to other countries in Africa, further extending the capabilities of its recycling efforts across the continent. Dow and Mr. Green Africa also aim to co-develop more traceable, fair, highquality post-consumer recyclate (PCR) that can be used in the production of new flexible plastic packaging – helping brand owners and other plastic manufacturers achieve their goals regarding sustainable packaging solutions in Africa.

At full scale, the investment is expected to create approximately 200 more direct jobs, impact the lives of 5 000 waste pickers and engage more than 250 000 consumers in separation-at-source programmes.

ADDRESSING AFRICA’S WASTE CHALLENGES Mr. Green Africa converts plastic waste collected in Kenya into high-quality PCR, which

36

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Mr. Green employees arrange sorted plastic at aggregation centres ready for processing

is then sold as a substitute for imported virgin plastics to help close the loop on plastic waste.

The recycling company works closely with brand owners and third-party manufacturers of plastics to access ethically-sourced, locallyproduced PCR, and supports companies in meeting their sustainability targets.

Marco ten Bruggencate, Dow’s commercial vice president for packaging and specialty

Did you know?

Mr. Green Africa is the first recycling company on the continent to be a Certified B Corporation. These are businesses that do more than make a profit. Certified B Corporations prioritise people and the planet in everything they do.

PACKAGING

is expected to make material recovery significantly more effective in the region.

Dow has also supported the development of an app through which communities in Kenya can sort and separate the plastic waste in their homes more efficiently. They can also use the app to schedule waste collection for it to be processed through the plastic recycling system by Mr. Green Africa.

CHANGING RECYCLING IN A SYSTEMATIC WAY

Mr. Green employees sort collected plastic at aggregation centres so they can be collected for processing

"With a vision-aligned partner like Dow, we will be able to advance towards changing recycling in a systematic way" plastics for EMEA, said: “Our partnership with Mr. Green Africa is testament to Dow’s commitment to play our part in solving the plastics waste issue in Africa, where waste collection and sorting are a real challenge.

We are delighted to announce this milestone in our continued collaboration with the recycling company which will enable us to have an even greater impact on diverting plastic waste from landfill and giving this valuable material a second life.

We’re fully committed to advancing the circular economy for plastics in Africa and the rest of the world in order to mitigate the negative impacts of environmental degradation, in line with our global sustainability goals.”

FOCUSED ON FLEXIBLE PACKAGING The partnership between Dow and Mr. Green Africa began in November 2019 in Kenya and was specifically established to drive the collection and recycling of flexible packaging, which was not supported by existing systems. Since then, Dow has invested into the partnership to prevent flexible packaging from ending up in landfill or the environment, supporting communities by incentivising waste

ADVANCING THE USE OF RECYCLED CONTENT IN PACKAGING Dow and the technology start-up and proprietor of an advanced recycling technology, Plastogaz, have announced a strategic investment. This will help to simplify the process of converting plastic waste to feedstock. It will also provide another carbon-efficient option to keep plastic waste out of landfills and the environment.

The collaboration marks another milestone in Dow’s ongoing mission to protect the environment and close the loop on plastic waste.

Dow will bring global reach and materials science expertise to further develop technologies with smaller innovative companies such as Plastogaz. These companies are developing circular feedstock for plastics required by global brands in order to eliminate plastic waste from their value chains and address the plastic waste crisis.

collection and enabling a market for flexible plastic packaging to be created.

By incentivising waste pickers with a higher, stable income through a fair-trade plastic waste sourcing model, establishing sorting centres that allow them to bring in plastic waste for payment, and then enabling this waste to be processed in recycling centres, the partnership

Keiran Smith, CEO and co-founder of Mr. Green Africa, comments: “If we want to make a lasting difference and systemic change in solving one of the world’s biggest challenges, we need to work with like-minded and relevant value chain partners. Mr. Green Africa has been able to lay a solid foundation. However, with a vision-aligned partner like Dow, we will be able to advance towards changing recycling in a systematic way.”

Adwoa Coleman, Dow’s Africa sustainability and advocacy manager for packaging and specialty plastics, adds: “The challenge of plastic waste in Africa is a significant and growing problem. As a leading materials science company, Dow is in the driver’s seat to make a measurable impact and help to close the loop on plastic waste. Across Africa, many livelihoods depend on recovering waste materials like plastic, but the benefit of this activity is only supported if there is endvalue for the material. This is why we are particularly proud to be taking our work with Mr. Green Africa to the next level. Through this investment, Dow will directly tackle the inadequacies in Kenya’s waste management systems for the first time. Collaborations such as this are incredibly important for Dow, because alongside our industry partners, we can tackle the all-important plastic waste challenge, create a market for flexibles and support reclaimers to access an additional income stream from previously uncollected material.”

The investment was structured and led

by Dow Venture Capital, which is focused on pursuing strategic investments in innovative start-up companies. These start-ups enable and accelerate Dow’s business growth and value. •

Dow – www.dow.com Mr. Green Africa – www.mrgreenafrica.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2022

37

PACKAGING

Industry association responds to signing of plastics treaty

A historic resolution was reached at the resumed fifth session of the United Nations Environment Assembly, when heads of state, ministers of environment and other representatives from 175 nations met in Nairobi, Kenya. The assembly took place from 28 February to 2 March with the goal of forging an international legally binding agreement to end plastic pollution by 2024.

E

ntitled “End Plastic Pollution: Towards an Internationally Legally Binding Instrument”, the historic resolution was described by Inger Andersen, executive director of the UN Environment Programme (UNEP), as “a landmark agreement that is the most important international multilateral environmental deal since the Paris climate accord”.

The resolution aims to dramatically reduce the impact of plastic pollution on the marine environment by looking at the full lifecycle of plastic from source to sea – including how plastic is produced, recycled, processed, used and collected.

Commenting on the outcome of the meeting, Plastics SA executive director Anton Hanekom said the resolution made it clear that business plays an important role in ending plastic waste.

“Governments are interested in learning about what business is doing to end plastic waste. The resolution appeals to the business community to develop new commitments that will increase the ambition of the global agreement. It also highlights the need for enhanced international collaboration to

Did you know?

UNEA-5 was an opportunity for member states to share best practices for sustainability. It aimed to create momentum for governments to build on and catalyse impact on multilateral environmental efforts to protect and restore the natural world on which our economies and societies depend.

For more information on the treaty, click here: www.unep.org/ environmentassembly/unea5.

38

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

facilitate access to technology, capacity building and scientific and technical cooperation in order to improve the collection and recycling of plastic waste.”

UNDERSTANDING AFRICA’S UNIQUE CHALLENGES The assembly concluded with 14 resolutions aimed at strengthening collective actions for nature in order to achieve the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals. Prior to the start of the conference, Plastics SA highlighted the importance of recognising the special needs and circumstances of Africa and analysing the respective capabilities of each country in light of national circumstances.

Hanekom explains: “You cannot blindly enforce a first-world solution on third-world problems. Each country’s local and regional context is different, as is the availability of resources to develop and implement effective waste management solutions. It is important to recognise that nations have unique and different socio-political climates that need to be taken into consideration. Plastics continue to be the cheapest, most practical and fit-for-purpose solution for many applications and uses in our country and on our continent. Whether used to save lives in hospitals, incorporated into technology and cars, or extending the shelf life of food by preventing breakage and spoilage, it is almost impossible to imagine any area of our lives that is not enhanced by plastics. When used and disposed of responsibly, plastics even play a major role in ensuring a more sustainable world. We therefore welcome the draft resolution, which encourages the public and private sectors to manage a just transition towards a circular economy.”

WORKABLE SOLUTIONS TO END THE WASTE CRISIS Looking ahead, the local plastics industry will continue to collaborate with local government, industry, civil society, academia and other interested parties to develop creative but workable solutions to our nation’s waste crisis.

"Plastics SA highlighted the importance of recognising the special needs and circumstances of Africa" “Over the past few decades, we have been proactive in our efforts to prevent plastic from ending up in the environment.

We have also been addressing the issues of plastics leakage, overpackaging and developing an effective mechanism for the recovery and recycling of plastics. All these topics will continue to be top of our agenda in the years to come. However, the signing of the treaty now potentially grants us access to some of the best minds in the world, greater resources and collective, global action. We look forward to participating in the Intergovernmental Negotiating Committee, as we work together on identifying, developing and implementing solutions that will effect lasting change for generations to come,” Hanekom concludes. • Plastics SA – www.plasticsinfo.co.za

ASSOCIATION NEWS

Product preservation – then and now

On 8 March, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists hosted its first technical seminar for the year. The morning session focused on an array of themes surrounding the topic of preservation. The online event enabled Coschem to include local and international experts in the seminar to share their knowledge with attendees.

K

ratisha Soodhin of Acti-Chem, South Africa kicked off the morning seminar by exploring solutions for sustainability in preservation, focusing on the old versus new preservation systems.

Market demand has moved with time from an egocentric approach to an eco-ethics based approach. In the past consumers were concerned only about the “me” aspect of sustainability where as their approach is more eco-ethics nowadays.

" When it comes to product preservation, the most important factor is consistent product quality to prevent microbial contamination, achieved using more sustainable and renewable options"

Did you know?

The personal care and cosmetic preservatives market is anticipated to expand at a CAGR of 5.8% over the forecast period of 2021 to 2031. In 2020, business valuation of personal care and cosmetic preservatives surpassed $345m, which amounted to around 8% share in the overall preservatives market.

Translated into formulation design, environmental protection and sustainability are now core requirements. Cosmetic manufacturers have a growing demand for renewable raw materials driven by the desire of consumers to return to increased naturalness. This has directed the choice of raw materials used in ecofriendly options.

The requirements for preservatives to be more eco-friendly and to contribute to the guarantee of 100% renewable raw materials in the value chain have created an opportunity for the development of alternative solutions. These have identical chemical and physical properties compared

to standard preservatives yet their environmental impact is reduced.

The molecules and application into formulation remains the same, yet they are available as responsibly sourced alternatives. These include ethylhexylglycerine, pentylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol and decylene glycol. The innovative eco-type product range allows manufacturers to make a contribution to the protection of the environment based on sustainable solutions.

Soodhin also gave a brief background on microbial contamination in cosmetic products and how this has been studied since the 1960s. It is important to note that contamination can occur during manufacture or during consumer use.

Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Candida albicans are the main pathogens identified which cause contamination.

REDcert2 certification was discussed as an industry control utilised for the certification of sustainable material flows into the chemical industry.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2022

39

ASSOCIATION NEWS

REDcert2 certification specifies that 100% of the fossil-based raw materials required for the manufacturing of a specific product needed to be replaced by sustainably certified biomass.

Ultimately, when it comes to product preservation, the most important factor is consistent product quality to prevent microbial contamination, achieved using more sustainable and renewable options.

NATURAL INNOVATION IN ANTIMICROBIALS Natural cosmetic products enjoy great popularity these days as they are perceived as “purer and safer” when compared to their synthetic counterparts. In addition, consumer affection for green formulations has consequently called for suitable ingredients.

“There is no denying that the reputation of several synthetics has suffered, especially when it comes to preservatives. But there is hope. There are natural alternatives,” explained Matthias Hentz of Ashland, Germany.

Hentz shared a presentation entitled “antimicrobials: natural innovation”, in which he elaborated on the framework

40

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

conditions for the development of certified natural cosmetics and the challenges when formulating natural cosmetics compared to conventional formulation design.

"You can never underestimate what an end user may do with a cosmetic product, so a preservative system should always be robust enough to provide protection" Christine Oleschkewitz, also of Ashland, Germany, joined Hentz to discuss two natural multifunctional solutions with antimicrobial properties.

Raspberry ketone is a perfect fit for leave-on and rinse-off formulations as it combines antimicrobial boosting properties with skin benefits while having a favourable biodegradability profile. A smart combination of lemongrass oil in benzyl alcohol imparts anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties in cosmetic products while providing a broad antimicrobial effect at a low dosage and with high pH tolerance.

PRESERVATIVES AND THE MICROBIOME One of the dominant topics of cosmetic and dermatological research in recent times is the microbiome of human skin.

The common understanding is that a balanced microbiome contributes to healthy skin. Generally speaking, the broader the diversity of the skin microbiome the better the health of the skin.

Currently there is an increasing number of cosmetic products which claim positive effects on the microbiome. Some concerns have been raised that antimicrobials could have a negative impact on the composition and diversity of the skin microbiota.

Julia Tuhvatullin of Ashland, Germany explained two in vivo studies that were conducted on this topic.

The studies examined the long-term effect of preservatives on the skin microbiome and the short-term effect of antimicrobials on the composition of skin flora. The results of the longterm study showed that there are no changes in the microbiome composition and diversity after several weeks of exposure to a cream containing phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.

ASSOCIATION NEWS

The short-term study demonstrated that the application of a deodorant roll-on containing octenidine HCl and 1,3-propanediole respects the individual microbiome.

These in vivo studies indicate the microbiomefriendly behaviour of the widely used substances phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin as well as octenidine HCl and 1,3-propanediole.

that end users are not only protected against harmful organisms but also those that are able to mutate to resist a preservative system.

You can never underestimate what an end user may do with a cosmetic product, so a preservative system should always be robust enough to provide protection. A preservative system is there to protect the end user from themselves; it’s not to cover the poor manufacturing procedures in a factory.

Brown discussed the various preservatives and how they

ECONOMIC AND ALTERNATIVE PRESERVATION In his presentation entitled Microbiologic: The Challenges and Opportunities of Economic and Alternative Preservation, Kurt Dieker of Evonik, Germany provided an overview of the topic to help attendees comprehend the issues and prospects of working with different preservation options, ultimately to meet requirements for safe and sufficient product protection.

Formulators need to have a holistic understanding of modern, alternative preservatives in terms of formulation conditions, possible interactions with other ingredients, the raw materials used and the performance that multifunctionals are able to deliver.

It is also necessary to understand challenge testing results. All this is key for the proper selection and correct usage of modern, multifunctional solutions.

GREEN PRESERVATIVES AND SUSTAINABILITY Lee-or Tsviling of Sharon Labs, Israel highlighted that current natural preservation systems are often seen as a “black box”, whose content is difficult to understand and analyse.

This is especially true when it comes to explaining how natural preservation systems act as antimicrobials.

Tsviling’s presentation addressed some of the main challenges associated with the preservation of natural and clean beauty products, taking into account the choice of ingredients, skin sensitivity, regulatory aspects, product claims and sustainability aspects.

He also explored natural preservation

systems, with a deep dive into their mechanism of action and interaction with various microorganisms and concluded by showing that highly effective and scientifically based natural preservation solutions do exist.

CHALLENGE TESTING AND THE EFFECT FORMULATION STABILITY Robyn Brown of Stability Testing Solutions, South Africa stressed that the preservation of a formula is not a simple matter. In her presentation entitled Preservative Challenge Testing and its Effect on Stability of a Formulation, Brown highlighted that one single preservative could not do the job on its own without creating huge issues in a formulation.

Whilst physical stability testing is not compulsory for a product information file (PIF) – it is necessary to prevent products recalls, which can have lasting damaging effects on a brand’s reputation.

Preservative efficacy testing is part of stability testing and is compulsory for a PIF. The reason behind this is product safety which rules over everything in the regulation of a cosmetic product.

In addition to the five standard organisms included in preservative efficacy tests, testing should also cover organisms that become resident in a production facility. This will ensure

affect the stability of a formulation.

Organic acids, diols, triols, solid particles, polarity and water activity all play a huge role in the stability of a formulation. When choosing a preservative there is no “one-size-fitsall solution”. Every step and ingredient in a formulation needs to be evaluated and a decision on its effect needs to be taken into consideration when choosing on a suitable preservative.

VERSATILE MULTIFUNCTIONALS Magnolia extract and zinc lactate took centre stage in the presentation by Dr Carsten Dietz of Cosphatec, Germany.

Dr Dietz closed off the morning seminar by discussing Magnolia officinalis bark extract and zinc lactate as two of the most versatile multifunctionals ingredients on the market. When looking at multifunctional ingredients, he explained industry can expect skin friendly ingredients, with a broad range of positive functions and proven scientific efficiency.

Both the magnolia extract and zinc lactate can be used as antimicrobials and as active ingredients. They are cosmos approved, vegan and non-GMO as well as palm oil free. The magnolia extract is mainly effective against yeasts and moulds, whereas the zinc lactate has strong bacteriostatic antibiofilm forming effects. •

Coschem – www.coschem.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // APRIL 2022

41

Tea

time Take a breather

>

GEOGRAPHICAL THEME CROSSWORD Across 7. World’s largest desert (6) 8. Belgian port (6) 9. Europe’s highest active volcano (4) 10. Caribbean island (7) 11. Quito is the capital (7) 13. African mountain range (5) 15. Capital of Egypt (5) 17. Famous Italian opera house (2,5) 20. Spanish city at the foot of the Sierra Nevada (7) 21. Russian city (4) 22. Capital of the Philippines (6) 23. South American river (6)

Down 1. Sea to the east of Sweden (6) 2. Indonesian island (4) 3. Capital of Thailand (7) 4. These Asian countries are north and south (5) 5. River (23 Across) empties into this ocean (8) 6. Capital of Turkey (6) 12. Sea to the east of Italy (8) 14. Island group east of Florida (7) 16. Sea between Greece and Turkey (6) 18. Capital of Portugal (6) 19. Asian country (5) 21. Muscat is the capital (4)

contact

To advertise in Anita Raath

Carla Melless

Sales executive

Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

+27 (0)83 260 6060

www.pharmacos.co.za

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

ADVERTISERS' INDEX A-Thermal Retort Technologies.....IFC........www.athermal.co.za

Nautica Organic Trading ...................27........www.nauticaorganics.com

AECI Specialty Chemicals...............OFC........www.aeciworld.com/

RMB Corvest..........................................23........rmbcorvest.co.za

specialty-chemicals

Society Of Cosmetic Chemists SA.... 7........www.coschem.co.za

CJP Chemicals........................................15........www.cjpchemicals.co.za

Symrise SA .............................................29........www.symselect.com /

Croda SA .................................................13........www.crodahomecare.com Moco Packaging ............................... OBC........www.mocopack.co.za

42

Sartorius South Africa .......................17........www.sartorius.com

Azelis.........................................................21........azelis.com

APRIL 2022 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

www.symrise.com Vega Controls SA ................................... 5........www.vega.com/vegabar

ONLINE

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ website will find information on membership, educational programmes (specific details pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the personal care industry.

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

www.coschem.co.za

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers, plastic containers,

analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,

closures and packaging accessories.

Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Phone: +27 (0) 11 661 7914 Cell: +27 (0) 81 399 9737 E-mail: peter.moopeloa@bureauveritas.com

BOTANICHEM

FORMPAK For over 50 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical,

BOTANICHEM is a supplier of specialist ingredients to the cosmetic and personal care industry, with a particular focus on plant-derived ingredients which support sustainable supply and fair-trade practice. We also aim to understand the needs of clients and to source the

food and dairy industries.

appropriate ingredient, at the right price.

Tel: +27 (0) 11 828 8870/1/2 Fax: +27 (0) 11 828 8880

www.botanichem.co.za

email: haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations.

If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.

113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications.

Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging Africa. The extensive range of high-quality in South Africa plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices.

Printing and frosting facilities are available.

Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028