Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review August 2017 by New Media B2B

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

August 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 8

www.pharmacos.co.za

Innovating

redefine TO

beauty

Riding the wave in natural hair care It’s time to prioritise warehousing efficiency Delight the senses with colour cosmetics

Contents AUGUST SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

August 2017 | Volume 44 | Number 8

Colouring 16 outside the lines

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEWS

BASF breaks ground on malaria prevention

Acacia diversifies into personal care

9 PRODUCT NEWS

What’s new in South Africa

11 MATERIALS HANDLING

Autonomous supply chains demand robotic equipment

Le-Sel optimises warehousing efficiency

Strip curtains for industrial applications

14 COLOUR COSMETICS

Emulsifiers for buildable beauty products

On trend colour formulations from IMCD

Summer makeup trends to delight the senses

20 REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING

Instruments for in vitro SPF testing

GHS and PIF – your questions answered

Next level skin analysis with Antera 3D

26 PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS: R&D

Bruker advances in translational phenomics research

Excipients and technology for direct compression

Rejuvenating hair with

30 HAIR CARE

Naturally derived ingredients for vibrant colour

Micro-proteins to repair hair from within

New silicone fluid for shine, gloss and softness

Natchem innovates with Murumuru butter

Nature-based ingredients from Millchem

micro-proteins

CIM’s latest hair conditioning system N SOUTH AFRICA

INROADS TO SEAMLESS CODES

REVIEW 41 44 Coding cos.co.za www.pharma

| Volum August 2017

e 43 | Number

& Marking

Technologies for improved traceability

U conpac d k

de m Ain ing ve a ND g lop r m kin en g ts

48 ASSOCIATION NEWS Fresh developments from CECOSA and Coschem it Reasons to vis17 20 Propak Cape misable A look at custo ing beauty packag

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

Beauty and hair care get active

n 2016 the global hair care market

With the cosmetics industry facing a

was estimated to be worth about

changing regulatory landscape, our

US $83.36 billion. Worldwide the segment

regulations, legislation and testing feature

is filled with opportunity for innovation

is set to provide readers with up-to-date

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributors: Belinda Berry, Christian Markiefka, Christina Kohlmann, Guadalupe Pellón, Jean McCormack, Patricia Kruger ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za

with consumer demand growing for novel

information on issues pertaining to the

Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za

products like cleansing conditioners,

Globally Harmonised Standard and Product

INTERNATIONAL SALES

dry shampoos, vegan-friendly protein

Information File requirements. Testing

treatments and sulphate-free shampoos.

equipment for sun and skin care products

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de

Interest in these product formats is also

is also discussed in this feature, which starts

growing in South Africa.

on page 20.

This edition of Pharmaceutical

Research and development comes

Cosmetic Review includes a bumper

under the spotlight in the pharmaceutical

hair care section for brand owners and

focus on page 26. Bruker has advanced its

manufacturers looking for inspiration for

nuclear magnetic resonance IVDr platform

new product development. Turn to page

for translation phenomics research while

30 now to find out more about various

Meggle continues to drive developments in

ingredients and raw materials to keep

excipients for direct compression.

the hair and scalp in tip-top condition.

Aarifah Nosarka unpacks coding and

Interesting reads include multifunctional

marking developments in PACKAGING

emollients from nature and new micro-

REVIEW (page 41), looking at new

proteins to rejuvenate hair.

technologies designed for

Colour cosmetics – a category that

fast packing lines and

thrives off fashion and lifestyle trends –

substrates that are difficult

continues to evolve alongside consumers’

to mark.

needs to look and feel good. Current category drives, shared in detail on page

Enjoy the read.

Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

14, include the buildable beauty trend,

Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.

where emulsifier technologies are key;

MANAGING DIRECTOR

active beauty for consumers who want to

Aileen Lamb

look good while exercising; and around

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

the clock beauty, which is seeing growth in

Bridget McCarney

products claiming 24-hours’ coverage.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Consultant, drbaileys.com

Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

HEAD OFFICE

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

John Knowlton Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

CEO of the National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers

Vivian Frittelli P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa NAPM - The National Association of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

NEWS By using the Interceptor G2 from BASF, a mother and child in Africa receive much needed protection from mosquitoes

CHEMIPOL’S PRESERVATIVES NOW AVAILABLE LOCALLY CHEMPURE HAS RECENTLY been appointed the local agent for Chemipol SA – a manufacturer and supplier of biocides, additives and process chemicals which is based in Spain. This development further diversifies Chempure’s offering to the personal care and cosmetics industry. Chemipol SA has over 30 years’ experience in microbiology applied to the personal care, chemical and food industries. It offers a wide range of preservatives for microbial control in personal care formulations. These include the Biopol classic preservatives and Biopol classic active ingredients, and the Sensicare C and Sensicare M preservatives with improved eco-toxicity. It also produces innovative preservative-free antimicrobials, which include the Sensicare FP antimicrobials and Sensicare NAT natural antimicrobials. The Sensicare range enables formulators to develop cosmetics with a reduced concentration of preservative ingredients without compromising the protection from harmful microorganisms. Thanks to the reduced presence of preservatives in a finished formulation, the possible undesirable side effects such as sensitisation are reduced while raw material incompatibility is also minimised.

BASF TAKES MALARIA PREVENTION TO THE NEXT LEVEL THE INTERNATIONAL CHEMICAL company has received a recommendation from the World Health Organization (WHO) for Interceptor G2. This is a long-lasting insecticidetreated mosquito net based on chlorfenapyr, which is a completely new insecticide class for combating mosquitoes for public health. This is the first WHO recommendation in more than 30 years for a product based on a new insecticide class. Working with the Innovative Vector Control Consortium (IVCC) and the London School of Hygiene & Tropical Medicine in a collaboration lasting over a decade, BASF’s scientists successfully repurposed chlorfenapyr to be effective on mosquito nets and meet stringent WHO performance thresholds for public health. Dave Malone, IVCC technical manager, comments: ‘The collaboration with BASF

NEW SOLUTION FOR ENHANCED COLDCHAIN MONITORING

gave us access to an insecticide with a rare combination of attributes: new to public

OCEASOFT, A LEADING expert in wireless monitoring solutions for

and its burden is greatest among the most vulnerable.

temperature-sensitive goods, has released OceAlert, which enhances

health; effective against resistant mosquitoes; and able to coat polyester netting with a long-lasting formulation.’ A second chlorfenapyr product, an indoor residual spray named Sylando 240SC, is also in the final phases of WHO evaluation. Around the world, every two minutes a child dies from malaria and there are more than 200 million new cases every year. Malaria is also a major cause of global poverty Long-lasting insecticide-treated mosquito nets and indoor residual sprays are

cold-chain monitoring and drastically helps reduce the risk of

the cornerstones of malaria prevention, particularly in sub-Saharan Africa. But 60

product loss.

countries have already reported resistance to at least one class of insecticide used in

OceAlert is a reliable and automated real-time alert generation

them. Part of the problem is that there were previously only four WHO-recommended

solution that offers a high level of protection for sensitive

insecticide classes for adult mosquito control: only one of them, the pyrethroid class,

and perishable products. It was designed and developed in

was recommended for long-lasting insecticide-treated mosquito nets. Continual use

cooperation with one of the world’s leading experts in information

of the same insecticides enabled the highly adaptable mosquito to develop significant

generation systems.

levels of resistance.

The demand for enhanced monitoring during product transit or

Independent trials in Benin, Burkina Faso, Tanzania and Ivory Coast have

storage continues to rise in the pharmaceutical industry as well as in

proven the efficacy of Interceptor G2 and Sylando 240SC against local insecticide-

the health care, agri-food, transportation and logistics sectors.

resistant mosquitoes.

This new offering is compatible with Oceasoft’s existing range of

‘New resistance management products are desperately needed to prevent mosquito-

Cobalt, Emerald, and Atlas dataloggers, as well as its future products.

borne diseases and save lives,’ comments Egon Weinmueller, head of BASF’s public

Without any hardware installation, OceAlert can be deployed rapidly

health business. ‘This development breakthrough strengthens my personal belief that

across any organisation, ensuring high availability through a robust

we really can be the generation to end malaria for good.’

and secure implementation.

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

NEWS

ACACIA DIVERSIFIES INTO PERSONAL CARE

Aspen forges new international partnership THE SOUTH AFRICAN pharmaceutical company has partnered with

ON 1 JULY, Acacia Specialty Chemicals (Acacia) was appointed

the Far Eastern Federal University (FEFU) based in Russia to promote the

the official distributor for Guanghzou Tinci Materials Technology

study and use of sophisticated and innovative technologies in the fields

Company (Tinci), marking its expansion into personal care and

of thrombosis and anaesthesiology.

cosmetics. Acacia will represent Tinci throughout the South African market and in neighbouring African countries. Since 2008, Acacia has been supplying speciality products to the food, agriculture and industrial market sectors throughout southern Africa. The company has well-developed infrastructure with warehousing and distribution facilities in all major centres in South Africa. The addition of a personal care division aligns with Acacia’s strategy to supply its customers with a broad range of quality speciality products. Tinci produces a wide variety of personal care raw materials, covering the skin, hair and oral care segments. It also offers a small range of cosmetics preservatives. The following products are carried as ex-stock items: • a nti-dandruff agent (Zinc Pyrithion 48 percent) • c arbomers (hair gels, hand sanitisers, clear gels, oral care and body washes) • c ationic guar conditioners (Guar Hydroxy Propyl Trimonium Chloride 13S, 14S) • c ationic conditioners (Polyquaternium 7, 39, 47) • c ationic cellulose conditioners (Polyquaternium 10) • t raditional emulsifiers (Ceteareth 6, 20, 25)

Stavros Nicolaou, senior executive of strategic trade development at Aspen was present at the signing of the accord with Russian Deputy Prime Minister, Yuri Trutnev. ‘The collaboration aims mainly at reducing the number of deaths associated with thrombosis which is relatively high in Russia compared to rates in the EU,’ comments Nicolaou. Aspen has been established in the Russian Federation since 2013, where it is a leader in the state-funded and medically critical fields of anti-thrombosis and anaesthesiology. Aspen employs over 150 qualified specialists in its operations throughout Russia and the Far Eastern Federal District. One of the main pharmaceuticals in Aspen’s Russian portfolio is the life-saving injectable anti-coagulant, Fraxiparine (Nadroparine Calcium). This low molecular-weighted heparin encompasses unique manufacturing technology and boasts a best-inclass efficacy and safety profile. The first phase of Aspen’s technology transfer for full-cycle manufacturing of Fraxiparine has been completed at the Russian biopharmaceutical company, Nanolek, in the Kirov region. ‘This collaboration is significant from a South African perspective, as it underscores the confidence countries around the world have in Aspen’s scientific capabilities and begins to profile South Africa as a global pharmaceutical player. Up until now, South Africa was

•O /W emulsifiers (Polyacrylamide C13-14 Isoparaffin and Laureth 7)

viewed very much as a local pharmaceutical player,’

•m ild surfactants (Cocoamidopropyl Betaine 30 percent and

Nicolaou adds.

Di Sodium Cocoamphodiacetate,) • n atural methyl glucoside (PEG 120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate and PPG 20 Methyl Glucose Ether) • p reservatives (Cathon 2.5 percent, DMDMH) • suspending stabilisers (Acrylates Copolymer)

Fraxiparine has already been launched in South Africa where it is expected to contribute significantly to the reduction of thrombosisassociated mortality in our country. ‘The incidence of thrombosis in South Africa is

• silicones (volatile, water soluble, phenyl, amino and transparent).

on the increase and the inclusion of Fraxiparine

Visit www.acaciachem.com for more information about Acacia and

in the Aspen thrombosis basket is an important

www.tinci.com to learn more about its new principal.

development in this field,’ he concludes.

Acacia Specialty Chemicals –

your innovation partner in the personal care and cosmetics industry Contact:

T. 011 965 1508 C. 0794085651 Email: clive@acaciachem.com

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

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| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

Say goodnight to lip lines Dermalogica’s new Nightly Lip Treatment smoothes away laugh and feather lines while you sleep. Launched on 3 July, this rich overnight formula firms, hydrates and restores skin on and around the lips. The treatment is formulated with Indian gentian extract, sesame seed extract, apple fruit extract, volumising technology and shea butter. It is packaged in a 10mℓ bottle featuring an airless pump and cooling metal applicator. The treatment retails for R980, is sold at authorised dermalogica skin care centres and online at www.dermalogica. co.za.

Spray away your grey Extend the life of hair colour treatments with Style Secret – an innovative solution to address grey root regrowth. The aerosol product dries within minutes and washes out easily. Style Secret is available in a variety of shades in an easy-to-use spray format, which effectively covers regrowth and keeps hair looking and feeling great. The product is priced at R290. It is available from selected salons and online at www.stylesecret.co.za.

STREET New easyto-use tube

The all-purpose drawing ointment, 8-TREK is now available in a 50mℓ tube. 8-TREK helps treat various minor skin problems both safely and effectively. Most minor cuts, scrapes, insect bites, ingrown hairs or nails, eczema, splinters and boils are ailments that can be treated with 8-Trek. The 8-TREK 50ml tube and 8-Trek 25ml tub are available from UPD, Alpha-Pharm and most major wholesalers.

Conditioning eye care Eyezone Conditioning Care Complex from M2Beauté makes lashes and eyebrows appear healthy and glossy. Similar to mascara, the complex is applied to lashes using a small brush. Its effective combination of peptide complexes and active ingredients, including acai berry extract, increases the formation of collagen in the lashes and brows. Eyezone Conditioning Care Complex costs R900. Visit www.m2beaute.co.za for more information about this product or to purchase it.

Rich-in-pigment eyeshadows

The beard appeal South Africa’s go-to grooming bar has launched an exclusive range aimed at beard

Bodyography Professional Cosmetics

care and shaving. Hailing from the success

has launched a range of four cream

of its predecessor line, the Sorbet Man Bath

eyeshadows. These long-wear cream to

& Body range, the Sorbet Man beard care

powder shadows are formulated with glittery shimmer particles and clumps of crushed pearl texture, creating a multi-dimensional look on the eyes. The four shades are blackened silver, deep bronze, soft champagne gold and shimmering

collection includes a beard oil, pre-shave oil, post shave balm and shaving cream. The extended Sorbet Man grooming collection is available at the brand’s grooming

rose gold. Priced at R295 each, the

bars and Clicks stores

eyeshadows are sold at selected

countrywide. Visit www.

Placecol, Dream Nails and Perfect 10 stores countrywide.

sorbetman.co.za for more information.

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

COMPANY FOCUS

Beauty redefined

The value of beauty is being redefined by Zinplex Cosmeceutical, thanks to its fresh take on new product development. The new Zinplex Tattoo range is a perfect example of how the company is pushing boundaries in innovation.

or the last 19 years, House of Zinplex has been trusted by consumers for its affordable, quality products. It comes as no surprise that the company has chosen to diversify into manufacturing cosmetics. Zinplex Cosmeceutical was established in June 2015 in Waltloo, Pretoria. The company provides third party manufacturing and packing services and can help with redeveloping any cosmetics range or the development

development and customer care manager at

of a new one.

Zinplex Cosmeceutical. ‘We can assist with the

Its capabilities include formulating, production, filling and packaging design. A fully equipped QC and R&D laboratory is also available for stability testing and trial batches. 1

T he team of professionals at Zinplex Cosmeceutical The semi-automatic tube filling and sealing machine Z inplex Cosmeceutical’s fully equipped QC and R&D laboratory

A fully equipped QC and R&D laboratory is available for stability testing and trial batches

‘Our team of professionals are geared to ensure that all customers’ needs are met where possible,’ explains Karlien Ley,

production of skin, hair and body care products, liquid sachet filling, dry powder filling, and the

DID YOU KNOW?

packing of creams, lotions, butters, gels and oils in our e-mark certified facility.’ The minimum order requirement

Zinplex Cosmeceutical presents a unique offering to the cosmetics industry in the form of a world-class manufacturing facility supported by extensive brand owner experience in terms of marketing, sales and distribution.

at Zinplex Cosmeceutical is about 500 units, which means that smaller businesses are now able to order small to larger batches, depending on raw material pack sizes.

Caring for the canvas Zinplex Cosmeceutical is the proud manufacturer of the new Zinplex

Tattoo range, which the company has 1

entered in the 2017 Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review/Symrise New Product Competition. The range consists of three products formulated to help keep tattoos looking fresh and new. The Mild Cleanser is specially developed to clean, protect and hydrate the newly tattooed area, while the Restoring Gel helps to enhance the healing process of damaged skin. 3

The Protective Cream is designed to help moisturise and protect the skin thanks to its unique combination of ingredients, including shea butter, deep moisturising materials and peptides. It also contains a unique active ingredient, which helps with the regulation and retention of moisture in the skin. •

Zinplex Cosmeceutical – cosmeceutical@zinplex.co.za

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

MATERIALS HANDLING

Driverless industrial trucks for autonomous supply chains In response to increasing interest in robotic equipment for warehouses and distribution centres, Linde Material Handling has added a new, state-of-the-art model to its range of standard robotic vehicles.

ndependently operating industrial trucks, which

Compared to classic automated guided vehicles or solutions based on laser reflectors, the installation of trucks from Linde Robotics reduces the effort required of customers, because the Linde-Matic series is based on ‘infrastructure-free’ geoguidance technology. It can navigate safely and reliably around existing structures such as walls, pillars or racks. When in the rack aisle, the VNA order picker is guided by an inductive or mechanical track system to enable faster driving. The Linde K-Matic is especially recommended

can be flexibly integrated into existing intralogistics

if high quality or sensitive products, like

systems and gradually expanded in number, are

pharmaceuticals, are moved in a warehouse,

being met with steadily growing customer interest.

as the installed safety management ensures the

‘We assume, in the future, robotic equipment will

increasingly become part of multi-stage autonomous process chains, in which different trucks, as well as various machines and fixtures will communicate and interact with each other to further increase productivity in warehouses and distribution centres,’ predicts Philipp Stephan, product manager, Linde Robotics at Linde Material Handling. As part of the 2016 World of Material Handling customer event, Linde demonstrated this robotised concept. Pallets were retrieved from a high-level rack by the K-Matic combi truck and

autonomous order picking truck can perform its tasks

The Linde K-Matic is especially recommended if high quality or sensitive products, like pharmaceuticals, are moved in a warehouse

safely, reliably and productively. Sensors and 3D cameras, visual and audible warning devices, and emergency stops help prevent damage to racks, load carriers and goods.

Trucks and servicing from a single source Automated solutions cannot be bought off the shelf. Prepurchase consultation is therefore imperative. ‘An accurate on-site analysis of the material flow processes is indispensable when it comes to developing the best possible

placed on a transfer station, before being picked up

robotic solution with the user,’ Stephan emphasises.

by an L-Matic pallet stacker and transferred to a roller

Once the concept has been selected, it takes just a

conveyor. Once the pallet had moved along the roller

few days for the trucks to be installed. •

conveyor to the other end, it was taken up by a P-Matic tow tractor and placed back on the rack. A significant advantage of the new K-Matic is the

Linde Material Handling – www.linde-mh.co.za

simple and fast changeover from autonomous mode to manual and vice versa, which takes just a few steps. ‘The K-Matic can be used for manual order picking during the day and can then handle replenishment supplies at night with entire pallets in autonomous

The driverless Linde K-Matic VNA order picker with 1.5t load capacity enables pallets to be autonomously stored at and retrieved from heights of up to 12m

NEW FORKLIFT FOR AMCOR FLEXIBLES

Pat Pillay, product support, Linde Durban; Leverne Poisson, area sales manager, Linde Durban; Sibongumenzi Khati, procurement specialist, Amcor Flexibles; Rafiq Peerbhai, operations, Amcor Flexibles

mode in the high-rack warehouse,’ he explains.

Built-in intelligence

THE DURBAN-BASED PRINTING and laminating company, Amcor Flexibles recently took delivery of a new electronic

Integrating the vehicle into the operational data flow

truck from Linde South Africa. The company already utilises

is achieved by means of the robot manager, which

a range of Linde products within its operations. So, when the

provides the interface to the warehouse management

need arose for a forklift within its warehouse in KwaZulu-

or enterprise resource planning system. The intelligent

Natal, Amcor Flexibles naturally looked to Linde as its supplier

computer unit also ensures the transmission of data,

of choice.

such as vehicle status for servicing purposes.

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

MATERIALS HANDLING

Riaan Botha, head of warehousing at Le-Sel and Warren Lloyd, area sales manager at Toyota Forklift

Contract manufacturer

prioritises warehousing efficiency

Le-Sel Research is optimising its warehousing and materials handling capabilities with the delivery of new reach trucks and equipment from Toyota Forklift.

The Le-Sel warehousing team celebrate the arrival of their new reach trucks and and equipment from Toyota Forklift

The machines were supplied on a long-term rental and maintenance basis, with full FMX forklift fleet management monitoring and corporate logos painted on the reach trucks. The order included five combustion Toyota Forklifts (8FG1.8), seven Toyota Forklift battery electrical reach trucks (8FBRE1.4S), two gas units (one 8FG2.5G and another 8FG3T) and one Orion LPE 200 pallet truck.

The bells and whistles The powerful, durable and environmentally friendly Toyota Forklift combustion and battery electrical reach trucks are characterised by simple operation and high levels of efficiency and safety. Toyota’s original safety technology, the system of active stability or SAS, for outstanding load handling control, and the OPS operator presence sensing system, provide stable

arlier this year, Toyota Forklift – part of the

and smooth operation. The technology also assists

EIE Group – handed over 15 machines with

in optimising work efficiency. Outstanding visibility

ancillary equipment to Le-Sel Research. The

provides a clear view of the fork tips and areas around

personal care contract manufacturer, based

the forklift to support safe and accurate operation.

in Midrand, Gauteng, is a first-time client for the

This is supported by the advanced ergonomics, which

forklift supplier.

includes the compact yet roomy body and a smalldiameter steering wheel. The Toyota battery electrical reach trucks feature an advanced AC power system, while the combustion reach trucks offer improved fuel efficiency with 20 percent lighter gas use than previous models and IPX5 waterproof rating on all electrical connectors. The Orion LPE 200 pallet truck provides safe high speed operation and maximum efficiency from the integrated spring loaded, foldable platform together with stable and comfortable gates.

Innovative synergies ‘We welcome the opportunity to introduce our bestin-class brands to new clients, particularly ones as innovative as Le-Sel. Innovation is a commitment we share and we look forward to building a partnership for life with Le-Sel,’ says Gary Neubert, CEO of EIE

EIE FAST FACTS

Group. ‘We worked with the client for six months prior to being awarded the contract, carrying out in depth site surveys and utilising our specialised equipment

EIE GROUP PROVIDES EQUIPMENT

duty forklifts and container handling

for warehousing to ensure we could offer them a

distribution, leasing, rental and value-added

equipment, Terberg terminal tractors, Fassi

total material handling solution tailored to their

services to the general industrial, industrial

truck-mounted cranes, Hoppecke batteries

specific needs.’

power, materials handling and agricultural

and chargers, JCB Industrial equipment

sectors. The group has a presence in South

and Hako industrial cleaning equipment. It

and Flexi materials handling equipment in southern

Africa, various other African countries, the UK

operates from four branches and 10 depots

Africa, the EIE Group says it is ‘the largest supplier of

and Ireland.

with a comprehensive dealership network in

forklifts to the southern African market and has the

southern Africa. It also has representation

most comprehensive product support infrastructure in

rights in southern Africa for Toyota Forklift,

in Angola, Botswana, Mozambique, Malawi,

the region’. •

BT warehousing equipment, Flexi Narrow

Madagascar, Namibia, Swaziland, Tanzania,

Aisle forklifts, Konecranes (SMV) heavy

Zambia and Zimbabwe.

EIE Group has exclusive distribution

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

As the sole distributor of Toyota Forklift, BT, Raymond

EIE Group – www.eiegroup.co.za

MATERIALS HANDLING

Improve your bottom line strip by strip

Strip curtains or PVC strip doors create doorways and partitions, providing fast, easy and unlimited access within commercial and industrial facilities. They are ideal for areas with low, medium or high traffic flow. Clear PVC strip curtains from Maxiflex admit light, can be used as partitioning in a warehouse and protect an area from pests and rodents

energy with subsequent decreased energy costs. They are effective in +60°C temperatures and the polar grade PVC remains flexible in temperatures of up to -32°C. They are also low cost and easy to install and maintain as they are mounted to specially designed mounting brackets. Each PVC strip is pre-cut and pre-

punched to specific lengths for easy lexible PVC strip curtains from

curtains are suitable for a wide range of

Maxiflex are economical,

applications including cold room and

practical, versatile and cost-

freezer room doors, personnel doors,

effective partition solutions. The

storage area enclosures, factory and

strip curtains present a flexible barrier

warehouse entrances and partitioning,

across internal and external apertures

conveyor and overhead crane openings,

providing seamless traffic flow, protecting goods and personnel, reducing energy costs and creating a safe, comfortable and more productive work environment. Each transparent strip is fabricated from a PVC compound with an outstanding degree of flexibility specially designed to

Strip curtains reduce the movement of airborne particles like dust or odours

combine high clarity

spray booths and ventilation brattices. For large exterior enclosures and high traffic areas, the door and loading dock specialist recommends a thicker PVC grade as well as wider strips for more overlap to provide protection from outside elements. A lighter internal grade material and narrower strips are best suited for areas with

with mechanical strength. This ensures

light foot traffic. Maxiflex can also custom

the strips deliver visibility, durability and

fabricate strip curtains for difficult-to-

resistance to force.

cordon-off areas.

The curtains are available in a variety of widths and thicknesses (200

Barriers with many benefits

x 2mm, 300 x 3mm and 400 x 4mm).

The strip curtains deliver numerous

They also come in specialist PVC

advantages, such as reduced operating

grades, such as welding bay PVC and

costs and improved productivity. By

anti-static PVC. This versatility enables

providing an environmental separation

Maxiflex to custom make strip solutions

from weather conditions and reducing

according to its customers’ needs, be

the loss of hot or cold air within the

it warehousing, refrigeration, materials

work space, the strip curtains maintain

handling or manufacturing. The strip

ambient temperatures and conserve

repair or replacement on a strip-bystrip basis. Strip curtains reduce the movement of airborne particles like dust or odours, provide effective protection against sparks and splashes, eliminate draughts and reduce or isolate noise. They can also improve a working environment by ensuring greater worker safety and comfort as well as uptime.

Insect-repelling strips Maxiflex also manufactures and supplies anti-insect PVC for the efficient repelling of insects. Available in strips and rolls, StopInsect is specially designed to bring antiinsect properties to PVC strip curtains and efficiently repels 80 percent of all flying insects as well as spiders and ticks. The technology also kills 100 percent of mosquitoes that come into contact with the vinyl over a 12-month period. The repulsive agent used in Stop-Insect is recommended by the World Health Organisation in helping to prevent mosquito-borne diseases like dengue fever and malaria. The agent is perfectly safe for humans and is therefore ideal for schools, hospitals, health centres, factories, industrial workshops, commercial shops, public buildings and private residences. •

Maxiflex – www.maxiflex.co.za

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

COLOUR COSMETICS

Buildable beauty Emulsifiers are the key building blocks of a formulation chassis. Jean McCormack from Vantage Specialty Ingredients discusses the company’s bio-active emulsifiers and what makes them suitable for colour cosmetics.

cosmetics containing high levels of pearls and pigments, because it provides excellent colour laydown on the skin. This colour and care emulsifier technology also helps to achieve a subtle glow or an intense

derived polyglyceryl chemistry. As a natural choice for improving product stability and performance while minimising the potential

buildable beauty routine is

of bio-incompatibility and irritation, this

becoming more and more

plant-derived emulsifier can be formulated

popular among consumers

into a wide variety of oil-in-water emulsions. It is also a good choice for low-

look. Product examples utilising this buildable

viscosity emulsions where stability may

emulsification technology include serums,

be challenging.

Type I Collagen (% Control)

Phosphatidylglycerol. important constituent of cell

p value

Mitochondrial Metabolism (% Control)

p value

100

1.000

Emu-BA 0.5% (5mg/ml)

0.000

0.028

Emu-BA 0.1% (1mg/ml)

0.000

0.007

102

0.712

107

0.202

PS80 0.5% (5mg/ml)

0.000

N/A

0.000

PS80 0.1% (1mg/ml)

0.000

156

0.000

MAP

The perfect co-emulsifier Distinctive Emul-Lipid ST is an ideal coemulsifier to utilise with Distinctive EmulLipid BA to create creams and lotions with excellent skin compatibility and delivery properties. It is rich in phytosterols and humectants, and promises outstanding mildness, superb conditioning

ABOUT

100

PS80 0.02% (200µg/ml)

drying and environmental stress.

various personal care products. •

This phospholipid is an

H2O

Emu-BA 0.02% (200µg/ml)

skin bio-available and allows it to replenish

colour cosmetic formulations and

Table 1: Distinctive Emul-Lipid BA versus a Polysorbate 80

Test Material

helps make Distinctive Emul-Lipid BA highly

This co-emulsifier is ideal for

based phospholipid, called

BA, a bio-active multifunctional emulsifier

important bio-identical constituent that

enhanced lubricity.

contains a unique plant-

and breathable. Distinctive Emul-Lipid

differentiation (see Figure 1). It is this

benefits, smooth texture and

Distinctive Emul-Lipid BA

products that leave skin feeling lightweight

cells to regulate cell proliferation and

restoring barrier function to protect against

Distinctive Emul-Lipid BA is based on naturally

A buildable beauty routine also requires

Phosphatidylglycerol offers a regenerative

skin, rebalancing cellular homeostasis and

Unique oil-in-water emulsifier

colour cosmetics.

total lipid content. Research suggests that

naturally occurring components to the

strobing effect.

moisturisers, primers and numerous

at levels between one and 11 percent of the

signaling pathway, which prompts skin

from Vantage, is ideal for use in colour

wanting to achieve a desired

membranes typically found in animal tissue

0.069

Jean McCormack has more than 20 years’ experience in the development and manufacture of personal care and colour cosmetic products. As technical marketing manager for Vantage Specialty Ingredients’ personal care division, she specialises in R&D.

Vantage – www.vantagespecialties.com

Choose Cirebelle for a better dispersant, body filler and stabiliser for your colour cosmetics

www.cirebelle.com

Tel: +27 11 473 1373 Email: sales@cirebelle.com

CIREBELLE Waxes • CIREBELLE Spheres • CIREBELLE Blends • CIREBELLE Softsphere™

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

The ECKART effect – makes beauty irresistible. The ECKART effect is brilliant. It turns the ordinary into the extraordinary: The wide palette of effect pigments provides a fascinating caleidoscope ranging from gentle matte effects to incredible sparkle when added to the variety of application fields of cosmetic products. Innovation, research and ongoing development of our products have made ECKART the partner of choice for the global cosmetics industry. ECKART also globally represents BYK Rheological Modifiers for Personal Care and Cosmetic Applications. ECKART – Take the brilliant way. www.eckart.net For further information please contact: IMCD South Africa · 275, Oak Avenue · Randburg 2194 · Johannesburg · South Africa Tel +27 11 570 4260 · ana.dacosta@imcdsa.co.za ECKART GmbH · Guentersthal 4 · 91235 Hartenstein · Germany Tel +49 9152-77-0 · Fax +49 9152-77-7008 · info.eckart@altana.com

COLOUR COSMETICS

Colouring outside the lines

Tracking worldwide trends, IMCD provides inspiration for developing innovative makeup products, which are based on the expertise of its Colour Cosmetics Centre of Excellence.

akeup is one of the most influenced categories. Mintel analysts say that Active Beauty and Round

the Clock Beauty are the biggest global trends driving developments in the world of colour cosmetics with formulators looking to develop formulations aligned with consumers’ new ways of living. The selfie ready culture is another category driver that needs to be considered to understand where developments in makeup are headed. Today, consumers want to lead healthier lifestyles with physical fitness as a top priority. While consumers continue to seek improved fitness levels through exercise, they also have a strong desire

Dedicated to makeup innovation Within the context of these category

to look good while exercising,

drivers, it is understandable

which forms the basis of the Active Beauty trend. Coupled with an active lifestyle are long and busy days. Consumers want to look good during the day and after work for evening events – and no evidence of the lack of

DID YOU KNOW?

that colour cosmetics have one of the higher growth

According to Techinfographics, over one million selfies are taken daily around the world. These images are shared on social media platforms sparking the desire to always be photo (or selfie) ready.

sleep should show on their skin the following day. These demands are behind the expansion of the Round the Clock Beauty trend, with a variety of products created exclusively to suit consumers’ needs at specific moments throughout the day and night.

rates compared to other personal care categories worldwide. Various forecasts indicate the Asian region will be home to some of the fastest growing markets in the

coming months, especially in Indonesia, India and Malaysia. According to Mintel, lip and eye colour products witnessed the highest number of launches worldwide in 2016, amounting to more than half of the colour cosmetics launches globally. Six years ago, IMCD established its Colour Cosmetics Centre of Excellence in Milan, Italy. This European country is well known worldwide as the hub for colour cosmetics innovation, providing

The Colour Cosmetics Centre of Excellence also produces sample prototypes to bring the latest global trends to life. IMCD’s highly experienced team of scientists continuously analyse market trends to develop new applications for its extensive portfolio of ingredients sourced from leading global suppliers. In this way, the company can create unique formulation ideas to fulfill the needs of every customer while tailoring solutions to the requirements of local markets. Valerio Vergani, technical product manager at IMCD and a specialist in colour cosmetics, comments: ‘Makeup and colour cosmetics need to have an immediate effect, as consumers are mainly attracted to their visual impact. In retail environments, all colour cosmetics have testers, because people rarely purchase a makeup item without trying it first. Within the first few seconds, a product needs to demonstrate all its benefits. What makes a colour cosmetic a product the customer wants to buy, is a combination of its different effects and features of the raw

the ideal location for the dedicated

materials. This predominantly includes

IMCD makeup laboratory.

how well the product spreads, its drying

Through the Colour Cosmetics Centre of Excellence, the company

time, the evenness of colour and its ease of application.’

creates customised solutions for clients on international expertise. IMCD’s

Blurred lines between skin care and makeup

technical specialists offer customers

As the Active Beauty, Round the Clock

valuable formulation advice and

and Selfie Ready trends continue to

detailed knowledge on raw materials

drive developments in colour cosmetics,

and how best to use them.

claims such as long lasting are becoming

from within the region, while calling

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

COLOUR COSMETICS

Colour cosmetics need to have an immediate effect, as consumers are mainly attracted to their visual impact

Table 1: Soft, natural wet and dry cake

Phase

increasingly important together with benefits adapted from or inspired by the skin care category. UV protection, anti-

pollution, anti-ageing, pore minimising and whitening are just some examples

Inci name

Trade name

Talc, dimethiconol stearate

Talc DMS (R2) (Bo Kwang)

27.00

Mica, palmitoyl proline, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate

Mica PGM (Bo Kwang)

20.00

Mica, dimethicone, triethoxycaprylylsilane

Sericite SP DCS (Bo Kwang)

20.00

Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer

Techpolymer MBX-8C (Sekisui)

3.00

Silica

Sunsphere NP100 (AGC)

3.00

Zinc stearate

2.00

Chlorphenesin

Dekaben CP (Jan Dekker)

0.20

Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, HDI/ trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer, silica, iron oxide, dimethicone, triethoxycaprylylsilane

Premix color #21 (Bo Kwang)

15.00

Dimethicone

Belsil dm 100 (Wacker)

1.80

Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate

Ceraphyl 847 (Ashland)

4.00

Hexyl laurate

4.00

This compact powder is designed to be used as two-way cake

of the added benefits consumers look for when selecting makeup products.

effect and ‘24 hours matte’ are achieved

IMCD’s compact powder is a perfect

through dedicated R&D at IMCD’s Colour

example of an innovative colour cosmetic

technical experts at IMCD’s Colour

Cosmetics Excellence Centre where

(see Table 1). The mix of coated powders

Cosmetics Centre of Excellence are

different combinations of ingredients

ensures extra smoothness and softness

currently developing new formulations with

are tested.

during application. The formulation is

In line with current global trends,

a focus on eliminating undesirable sensory

‘Pearlescent pigments, resins, texturisers,

based on a pool of coated powders with

features. For example:

waxes, butters, film formers and emulsifiers

different coating agents to enhance

•c olour cosmetics must be non-sticky and

are all important ingredients we can use

compatibility with pigments and oils. It

to create any kind of colour cosmetics.

provides an emollient and creamy feel on

The secret lies in always taking maximum

skin, has excellent water repellence and

considered essential properties with

advantage of combining ingredients and

skin adhesion.

a demand for extended wear lasting

the newest raw material technologies.

during the day and sometimes through

Silicones play a positive role in colour

Where to next with colour?

the night

cosmetics, while elastomers and powders

There is still room for development and

provide interesting blurring properties.

growth opportunities in colour cosmetics.

These raw materials, together with the

Worldwide markets are already seeing

extended wear benefits provided by resins,

strong influence from the innovative world

and non-occlusive to avoid blocking

give us a good base to formulate a really

of Korean beauty; cushion-format makeup

the pores.

trendy makeup product that meets even

products were a huge success across

Features associated with marketing and

the most demanding consumer needs,’

western markets in 2016. Additional trends

performance claims, such as a vinyl

explains Vergani.

from Korea are expected to continue

non-tacky and shouldn’t dry out the skin • water-proof and sweat-proof are

• t hey must be easy to re-apply without creating a pilling effect • f ormulations must be light-weight

influencing worldwide markets in years to come. Transforming textures and hybrids will also be a focus, for example products that change from liquid to powder, and primers are set to be increasingly prominent. Examples include smoothing primers, sebum control primers and blur creams. IMCD expects to see mascaras evolving towards complete beauty routines in the same way that eyebrow products evolved during 2016. In general, all face defining makeup will experience good growth due to the rising popularity in online videos and tutorials, which demonstrate and make professional makeup techniques accessible to consumers. •

IMCD – www.imcdgroup.com

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

COLOUR COSMETICS

Beauty you can feel

Sensient creates cosmetics formulations to delight the senses. Using its expertise in flavours, scents and colours, the company brings summer makeup trends to life with unique sensory characteristics.

By Patricia Kruger

onsumers’ brand loyalty continues to dwindle with beauty shoppers seeking newer and more exciting sensorial experiences.

Formulators should note that an engaging sensorial experience involves as many senses as possible. When it comes to cosmetics, it’s mainly touch, sight and smell with consumers’ first experience of a brand being through its packaging. As an authority on colour and sensory, which provides products to a broad spectrum of industries, Sensient’s teams are involved in producing solutions that touch every aspect of consumers’ lives.

DID YOU KNOW?

This unique market reach, from consumer goods and cosmetics to food and textiles, gives the company a 360° vision of consumers’ expectations and future colour cosmetics trends. The sense of touch is extremely important for most beauty consumers. It is engaged from the pick-

Sensient’s loose powder lipstick brings intense colour to the lips with a twinkling effect

The colour cosmetics category is unique when it comes to the shopping experience. While consumers seek sensorial skin soft to touch even experimentation from products, they have hours later. Texture is increasingly moved towards mobile apps and another factor, which virtual platforms to learn new makeup techniques not only conveys efficacy and how to use a wide range of products. These in a product but also different tools help brands to build consumers a sense of luxury and loyalty, driving their purchase decision and emotional memory – Juliana Martins, differentiation – this can beauty and personal care analyst be exploited to expand on a at Mintel. brand’s unique story.

up of cream until well after the

product is completely absorbed,

Powder to cream lipstick

leaving a desirable after feel. In a recent study in the UK, Mintel found that

There are a variety of solutions available to

three out of five women perceive a cosmetics

formulators to obtain a desired feel when

product to be ‘moisturising’ when it leaves

formulating colour cosmetics. Emollients are usually added for their

Table 1: Aqua powder lipstick formulation guide

Phase

smoothing and softening properties. They

Commercial name

INCI name [EU]

% w/w

encompass a broad range of molecules,

Alumina AS-EM

Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane

4.50

which can be lipophilic, hydrophilic or silicone

Talc AS R0435

Talc (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane

6.00

Unipure Red LC3075 AS

CI 15850 (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane

1.00

Covapearl Star Bright 9332 AS

CI 77891 (and) Mica (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane

4.50

Covabead LH 85

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

2.00

Pure water

Aqua

69.40

Citric acid

0.30

Glycerin

8.00

Phenoxyethanol

0.30 1.00

Fucosorb WP

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract (and) Sorbitol (and) Aqua (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Sodium Benzoate

Covagel

Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch

3.00

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

based. Their impact on texture varies and is dependent on their molecular weight, polarity, chemical composition, etc. Sensient’s Natpure Feel M-Eco is an example of a natural emollient that combines the conditioning and moisturising benefits of esters while providing a silicone-like lightness upon application. Gelling agents, also known as thickeners or stabilisers, are ingredients that dissolve in one phase to form a weakly cohesive structure, modifying a product’s rheology. Going beyond the simple adjustment of viscosity, modern thickeners can deeply transform a texture to create unexpected experiences for consumers. Covacryl AC, a sodium polyacrylate gelling agent, can create stringy serums, which are popular in Korean beauty.

Modern thickeners can deeply transform a texture to create unexpected experiences for consumers

COLOUR COSMETICS Table 2: Body ornaments formulation guide

Phase

Commercial name

INCI name [EU]

% w/w Black, Red, White

% w/w Yellow

37.90

Talc ADT-C

Talc (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Bis-PEG-15 Dimethicone/IPDI Copolymer (and) PEG-2 Soyamide

39.50

Unipure Black LC998 PHY

CI77499 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide

Unipure Red LC388 PHY

CI77491 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide

Unipure White LC985 PHY

CI77891 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide

Unipure Yellow LC188 PHY

CI77492 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide

57.60

Isopropyl Palmitate (and) Isostearyl Isostearate (and) Octyldodecanol (and) Octyldodecyl Myristate

4.00

Natpure Feel-M-Eco

Microcare PHG

Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol

For moderate gelling and a soft after-feel, the Covacryl MV60 variant is ideal. Micro-spherical powders are often used to enhance feel in makeup and sometimes in skin

care applications. The sensorial performance of these fillers is driven by the shape, size and chemical nature of their beads. Covabead Velvet 10 is made of unique polymethylmethacrylate mono-dispersed beads that provide a superior ball-bearing effect when compared to traditional

PMMA beads. This creates an instant soft focus visual effect on skin. To demonstrate the concept, Sensient created an aqua powder lipstick using treated powders and spherical cross-linked PMMA beads (see Table 1 for the guideline formulation). This loose powder contains 82 percent of the hydrophilic phase and turns into a fresh cream upon application.

Water based makeup Combining hydrophilic pigments and hydrophobic treated talc is another way to create a unique texture. Sensient shows this concept in a unique body ornament formulation (see Table 2) where a wet brush is used to create an emulsion between pigments treated with phytic acid and the hydrophobic coating on talc. The phytic acid used in this pigment treatment is derived from rice bran (see Figure 1). It is GMO and allergen-free. The treatment mechanism is based on the formation of chelate compounds from the reaction between the active groups of phytic acid Sensient’s watercolour makeup is inspired by tattoos and henna body art

60.00

0.50

and metal atoms on the pigment surface. This natural super-hydrophilic surface treatment makes it easy to formulate water based makeup products. These PHY surface treated pigments disperse fully in the water phase without mixing or grinding. Full colour strength develops faster, shade adjustment is simpler and higher pigment load is possible. No significant viscosity increase is observed up until a pigment load of 50 percent into the water phase. These benefits lead to enhanced stability in water gels or O/W emulsions with the additional advantage of no difference observed between the mass and payoff shade. Sensient keeps increasing its offering of texturing ingredients. This is in recognition of formulators’ growing challenges to create makeup products with innovative textures, which meet consumers’ needs for unique, pleasant and surprising beauty products. •

Figure 1

Sensient – www.sensient.com

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING

Spectroscopic Solutions for the Validated Pharmaceutical Industry

ALPHA

FTIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/alpha

TANGO

FT-NIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/tango

In vitro sun protection testing Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review talks to the experts at Measuring Instruments Technology (MIT) and Atlas Material Testing Technology (MTT) about the importance of SPF testing and the relevant instrumentation.

ith sunscreen products, brand owners and manufacturers require quick and reliable SPF test results using accredited methodologies and equipment. This is crucial when

launching new products or adapting existing product quality to changing market demands. In South Africa, there are a handful of laboratories that offer SPF testing services using scientific instrumentation from Labsphere. MIT is the local distributor of Labsphere equipment. It also represents Helioscreen, based in France, which supplies in vitro sunscreen testing solutions. MIT is headed by Margie Hengstberger, who says

BRAVO

cosmetics and virtually all other skin care products claiming

Handheld Raman Spectrometer www.bruker.com/bravo

SPF protection need to be tested prior to being introduced to market. ‘The requirement is globally driven and each country has its own specific guidelines for testing methods

OPUS Software supports traceable Reference Standards Instrument Qualification according to USP, PhEur, JP Internal Validation Unit (IVU) for automated OQ & PQ Full 21 CRF part 11 support for Data Security, Integrity, Traceability

based on the UV-A irradiation limits or a related standard,’ she explains. ‘There are several applicable standards, including ISO 24443, Colipa, Boots and the FDA.’

Advanced technology According to Dr Oliver Rahäuser, SunTest product manager at Atlas MTT, the in vitro test is based on the measurement of UV radiation transmittance through a thin film of sunscreen. This film is manually applied to a special PMMA plate of a defined size, quality and surface roughness.

Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FTIR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and costeffective compliance.

Helioscreen manufactures PMMA plates according to a

complete wavelength range from 290 to 400nm in one

traceable standard by which each plate is numbered and certified. The UV transmittance characteristic of the sunscreen is measured with a spectrometer, such as that of the UV-2000S from Labsphere, before and after exposure to a source of UV radiation. This instrument measures the scan. With a diode array, the measurement is quick for multiple measurement spots on the same PMMA plate thus

Innovation with Integrity

FTIR/FT-NIR/Raman

avoiding lengthy scans through the spectrum, wavelength by wavelength, which can take up to 24 seconds per spot. This can damage the sample when using a continuous Xe lamp.

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING

The Atlas SunTest CPS+ Solar Simulator provides compliance by using an aircooled 1 500W xenon lamp in combination with an optical daylight filter. Additional IR-reflecting mirrors reduce a great portion of unwanted IR heat waves

The UV-2000S is designed for quick

Manual preparation of a sunscreen on a PMMA plate before UV exposure (Image courtesy of Labsphere)

cosmetics testing when both industries

measurement to avoid temperature control

realised its benefits as a compact, reliable

concerns of the plates during assessment.

solar simulator.

Well-designed instruments will give the same

‘The irradiance within the SunTest is

measurements of absorbance and thus the

automatically controlled by a wideband

same SPF and UVAPF measurements when

300 to 800nm dimmable light monitor

measuring the same sample. This was shown

inside the chamber. The test temperature of

in a published study conducted by Labsphere,

between 25 and 35°C is controlled even at

detailing a comparison of measurements

the highest irradiance setting by a SunCool

on the UV-2000S using PPMA plates from

refrigeration unit, which feeds in chilled

Helioscreen doped with UV filters. The UV- 2 000S

air,’ Dr Rahäuser explains.

produced corresponding results with a

The SunTray specimen

competitor instrument that incorporates a

handling accessory is best

different optical design.

suited to complete the

‘The UV-2000S is compliant with all the

ideal test setup. This is a

normalisation requirements of ISO, Colipa, FDA

sample exchanger unit

and Boots, which the user can choose. The

located beneath the

instrument is also maintenance-free and comes

SunTest which includes a

with a kit to verify its performance as needed,’

holder for eight standard

adds Hengstberger.

PMMA plates. It allows for fast and safe exchanging

A trusted UV test chamber

of samples during the

The SunTest CPS+ Solar Simulator from Atlas

SunTest in continuous

MTT is another instrument that is crucial to

light mode. •

DID YOU KNOW?

It is necessary to follow a standardised protocol when preparing sunscreen samples for testing as prescribed by the methodology of normalisation requirements. This can become laborious, which is why a robotic Spreadmaster has been developed to automate the repeatable process. The Spreadmaster and Thermaster – a temperature stability control instrument – are also available from MIT.

the in vitro UVA test method and used in the irradiation phase. Originally developed for the accelerated ageing testing of plastics and other materials, Atlas quickly optimised the instrument for use in pharmaceutical and

Atlas MTT – www.atlas-mts.com Measuring Instruments Technology – www.marmit.co.za

Measuring Instruments Technology

The UV-2000S is used for SPF-testing of sunscreens. The instrument is: . Easy to install . Easy to use . Designed for quick measurements . Compliant with all the normalisation requirements, including ISO, Colipa, FDA, Boots with guided user-friendly software . Maintenance-free (a kit is delivered to verify as needed the performance of the instrument) Tel: +27 12 349 5191 Fax: +27 12 349 5190 Cell: +27 82 784 2011 Email: info@marmit.co.za www.marmit.co.za

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING

Your GHS and PIF questions answered The Global Harmonised Standard (GHS) has sustained its development over the past few years. Belinda Berry, CEO of Lisam South Africa, discusses the implementation of GHS in South Africa and the local requirements for the Product Information File (PIF), pertinent to the cosmetics industry.

A 16-POINT SDS CONTAINS THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION: • identification • hazard identification • composition/information on ingredients • first aid measures • firefighting measures • accidental release measures • handling and storage • exposure controls/personal protection • physical and chemical properties • stability and reactivity • toxicological information • ecological information • disposal considerations • transport information • regulatory information • other information.

published in 2003. The current version is Version 6 published in 2015. It is known as the UN Purple Book and provides for the following: • defining physical, health and environmental hazards • applying agreed criteria to classifications • defining communication tools such as the safety data sheet (SDS) and labels.

GHS implementation in South Africa he United Nations (UN) GHS was developed

SANS 10234: 2008 for the labelling and

as a result of the international mandate

classification of chemicals requires that chemicals

provided by the 1992 UN Conference on

and mixtures or products classified as hazardous

Environment and Development and is

are labelled and classified as per SANS 10234

reflected in Agenda 21, paragraph 19.27: ‘A global

GHS in principle The purpose of GHS is to: •e nhance the protection of human health and the environment • provide an internationally recognised standard for the classification and labelling of chemicals • provide a recognised framework for countries that do not have a system to implement • r educe the need for testing of chemicals • promote global trade through a uniform classification and labelling standard. Visit to www.unece.org for updates and more information.

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

up to the point of ‘intentional intake’. SANS 10234

harmonised hazard classification

is not applicable beyond ‘intentional intake’ for

and compatible labelling system,

pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, stock remedies, food

including material safety data

additives and residue pesticides in food. Besides

sheets and easily understandable

these products, SANS 10234 is applied to all other

symbols should be available and

hazardous substances and products throughout

feasible by year 2000’.

their lifecycle, including manufacturing, handling,

The work was coordinated and managed by the Interorganisational Programme

storage, transport and use (e.g. labelling of consumer products). To date, SANS 10234 has been included in the

for the Sound Management

draft amendments to the Hazardous Substances

of Chemicals (IOMC) and the

Act (Act 15 of 1973) draft regulations published in

completed work was handed over

September 2016. These regulations are expected to

to the GHS sub- committee, which

be promulgated within the next six months.

was established in 1999. The

The NEM:Waste Act (Act 59 of 2008) has

sub-committee is responsible for

implemented GHS for waste through the

maintaining GHS, which is revised

classification regulations of 2013 by including

every two years. The first version

SANS 10234. This means that all waste, except for

for global implementation was

medical waste that is classified hazardous as per

approved in December 2002 and

SANS 10234, must carry a representative SDS and

REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING label as per its classifications. So, if a waste is a mixture, the concentration of the components must be determined and used for the classification. There are also global treaties that serve to

Table 1: Hazard pictograms (labelling) and applicable hazard categories according to GHS

Hazard pictogram

Applicable hazard group

Hazard pictogram

Applicable hazard group

GHS01

Expl. 1.1,1.2,1.3,1.4

GHS05

Eye Dam. 1

protect human health and the environment

Org. Perox. A

Met. Corr. 1

against the adverse effects of hazardous

Self-react. A

Skin Corr. 1A

Unstable Explosives

Skin Corr. 1B

chemicals such as the Stockholm and Rotterdam conventions. Furthermore, ISO 11014 states that any SDS drawn

Skin Corr. 1C GHS02

Aerosol 1,2

GHS06

Desensitized Expl. 1,2,3,4

up in accordance with SANS 10234 must meet

Acute Tox. 1,2,3 (Inhalation)

Flam. Gas 1

SANS 11014 requirements.

Acute Tox. 1,2,3 (Inhalation: dust, mist)

Flam. Liq. 1,2,3

Occupational Health and Safety (OHS) Act No.

Acute Tox. 1,2,3(Dermal)

Flam. Sol. 1,2

Acute Tox. 1,2,3 (Inhalation: gas)

55 of 1993 is also being revised to incorporate SANS

Org. Perox. C,D,E,F

10234, but already refers to SANS 11014 which is

Pyr. Gas

based on SANS 10234.

Pyr. Liq. 1

Acute Tox. 1,2,3 (Inhalation: vapour)

Pyr. Sol. 1

Acute Tox. 1,2,3 (Oral)

Self-heat. 1,2

PIF for cosmetics

Self-react. C,D,E,F

Draft regulations have recently been published by the Department of Health, i.e. regulations relating to the labelling, advertising and composition of

Water-react. 1,2,3 GHS03

cosmetics, published for comment on 19 August 2016. The draft regulations for PIF requirements

Ox. Gas 1

GHS07

Acute Tox. 4 (Dermal)

Ox. Liq. 1,2,3

Acute Tox. 4 (Inhalation)

Ox. Sol. 1,2,3

Acute Tox. 4 (Inhalation: dust, mist) Acute Tox. 4 (Inhalation: gas)

(Section 4) match the EU requirements. In summary, the PIF needs to be completed and signed off by an expert in the field of toxicology,

Acute Tox. 4 (Inhalation: vapour)

such as a safety assessor, as this proves the

Acute Tox. 4 (Oral)

product is safe for use, prior to the product being

Eye Irrit. 2A

sold. The PIF is kept by the responsible person

Ozone 1

(typically the business owner/manufacturer) at an

Skin Irrit. 2 Skin Sens. 1,1A,1B

EU address. It can be electronic or any other format and needs to be easily accessible. It should be kept for 10 years after the last batch of products has been made. A PIF has a fixed format and contains the following sections:

STOT SE 3 GHS04

Press. Gas (Comp.)

GHS08

Asp. Tox. 1,2

Press. Gas (Diss.)

Carc. 1A,1B,2

Press. Gas (Liq.)

Muta. 1A,1B,2

Press. Gas (Ref. Liq.)

Repr. 1A,1B,2 Resp. Sens. 1,1A,1B

•a description of the product

STOT RE 1,2

• t he exact formulation of the product

STOT SE 1,2

• the Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR), which

GHS09

will be provided and signed by the safety assessor.

Aquatic Acute 1 Aquatic Chronic 1,2

The CPSR consists of the following parts: •A – safety information •B – safety assessment • t he method of manufacturing used to produce the product •e vidence of following Good Manufacturing Practices • any product claims and the substantiation thereof •d ata on animal testing – confirmation is required

Belgium-based Lisam Systems provides software solutions for

ABOUT

authoring SDSs, PIFs and transport documents combined with extensive chemical databases. The company is a global software solutions provider specialising in

that the product has not been tested on animals

regulatory compliant EHS software

as animal testing on finished products and their

and in particular, SDS authoring

respective ingredients has been banned in the EU

and distribution for all the major

since 2009.

global regions. It has offices in

The CPSR is the most important and complex

18 countries, including Lisam South Africa, offers

section of the PIF. This is where the cosmetics

authoring solutions in more than 50 languages

product is declared safe. A lot of data and

and has a team of regulatory experts, who provide

information are required to complete the CPSR.

authoring and technical services and support. •

Therefore, the safety assessor needs to be suitably qualified to carry out the safety assessment and sign the PIF.

Lisam Systems – www.lisam.com

Belinda Berry is a registered professional scientist with a BSc(Hons) (Chemistry) and a post graduate diploma in environmental law. She has extensive experience in the field of hazardous waste and chemicals management.

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING

The future of skin analysis Antera 3D offers a new approach to the analysis and evaluation of skin. The instrument, which is distributed in South Africa by dr.dermal, combines 3D analysis of skin’s texture and wrinkles with impressive evaluation of redness and pigmentation.

n the cosmetics industry, skin analysis

a competitor skin analysis device,’

instruments are widely used to

he explains. ‘It is also unaffected by

measure and record conditions on the

ambient light and provides real 3D

surface of the skin. They can measure

images of the skin from any angle,

competitor instrument. This is because

under any illumination condition.’

it relies on multidirectional illumination

hydration levels, melanin, sebum content,

The Antera 3D is a unique, portable skin analysis device

wrinkle depth, pore size, skin texture, its

obtained by LEDs of different

evenness or roughness, and redness

Evaluating wrinkles

or rosacea. Their role is paramount in

These days there are

clinical testing particularly when it comes

various methods to

to claim substantiation.

evaluate wrinkles,

Antera 3D, produced by Miravex, is

which experts say

wavelengths at various directions, which make it advanced in the

Unlike traditional imaging qualitative evaluation techniques, where only three colour of numerous skin channels (red, green, and blue) are used, conditions. the Antera 3D uses reflectance mapping of Antera 3D can seven different light wavelengths spanning measure the length, the entire visible spectrum. This allows for a much more precise analysis of the skin width and depth of colourimetric properties, which are fine lines, wrinkles mostly determined by two dominant and skin folds in a chromophores: melanin and quick scan, which takes haemoglobin.

said to be the only camera that allows

are focused on

for accurate measuring of wrinkles,

two categories:

texture, scars, skin colour, redness and

indirect or direct

pigmentation in a seamless way. The

evaluation. In April

instrument is available in two versions: Pro

2017, experts from

and CS (for clinical studies) with the latter

the Department of

targeted at cosmetics manufacturers,

Dermatovenereology

contract research organisations and

at Sichuan University

laboratories that conduct clinical trials.

conducted a study comparing

Sahil Singh from dr.dermal

DID YOU KNOW?

only one second. This data

can then be saved, analysed

the Antera 3D to a market-leading

and generated as a report in about

demonstrated the capabilities of Antera

skin analysis instrument to reveal the

90 seconds. Thanks to its accuracy

3D to Pharmaceutical

differences and correlations between

and sensitivity in measuring wrinkles,

Review, highlighting the versatility and

them. The results of the comparison

the instrument could change the way

functionality of the instrument. ‘The small,

study revealed that the Antera 3D

anti-ageing skin care products are

compact and hand-

is more sensitive in measuring the

developed in South Africa.

held camera takes

assessment of wrinkles than the

Cosmetic

images with the eye

Focus on pigmentation

open which is not

With pigmentation or uneven skin tone

possible with

being a primary concern of African consumers, the Antera 3D is ideal to quantify the efficacy of skin lightening ingredients in in vivo testing. A paper published in 2015 by Inovapotek and the Faculty of Pharmacy at the University of Porto in Portugal reveals how the Antera 3D performs well and in some cases better than a competitor device when evaluating pigmentation on skin. In melanin content analysis, the Antera 3D presented better A report generated by the Antera 3D software

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

sensitivity. It could reliably discriminate between skin erythema and melanin.

REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING While its sensitivity was similar to the competitor instrument, Antera 3D presented better specificity when measuring melanin in skin with erythema. The Antera 3D also offers high standards of measurement accuracy and repeatability, as well as a high specificity in resolving melanin from haemoglobin.

Portable unit offering evidencebased results The unit is portable and can be used to image any part of the body, which Singh says are distinct advantages of the Antera 3D when compared to competitor instruments. Another unique ability of the Antera 3D is that can scan and evaluate volumes

It is also more cost-effective than

Ultimately, the Antera 3D presents

and depressions with 3D rendering to

competitor products. ‘No licensing fee is

groundbreaking possibilities for clinical

assess hypertrophic scars or keloids

required and general software updates

testing and in aesthetic practices and skin

for example.

are provided free of charge,’ Singh adds.

care treatment centres, the instrument is

The analysis of results is simple, quick

The functionality of the Antera 3D is

used by professionals as a consultation

and easy to interpret thanks to the

what makes it so impressive. ‘The free-form

tool to show patients their skin defects and

graphics-oriented reports generated by

selection tool allows the user to generate

the level of progress after commencing

the software of the Antera 3D. Training

before and after reports on the same area

with a treatment programme. •

can be kept to a minimum because the

of skin. Data is pulled immediately into a

camera is so easy to use and the software

report displayed in a graph format, which

so intuitive.

is easy to comprehend,’ he adds.

dr.dermal – info@drdermal.com

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//R&D

Growth in NMR phenomics research capabilities Bruker has enhanced its nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) IVDr platform for translational phenomics research with the new B.I.QUANT-UR module. This module allows for automated and reproducible quantification of up to 150 metabolites in urine in 80 to 100 samples a day.

t the 2017 Metabolomics

of measuring and analysing with

Society meeting, Bruker

the highest information content

announced a new solution

and quantitative reproducibility.

for the quantification of

The new B.I.QUANT-UR module is a

metabolites in urine using NMR. Urine

completely automated solution that

metabolic analysis is particularly

can replace multiple conventional

valuable and information-rich, because

analysis methods.

the metabolic pathways of a wide range

Bruker’s Avance IVDr platform

of nutrients, drugs and environmental

is optimised for clinical and

contaminants can be identified in

translational research. It uses

urine, despite it being very complex to

standard operating procedures

analyse. The new B.I.QUANT-UR module

(SOPs) in B.I.methods to automatically

of Bruker’s successful Avance in vitro

generate measurements from urine

diagnostics research (IVDr) 600MHz

using the highest quality spectra

NMR platform provides precise, sensitive

with full quantitative reproducibility

and fully reproducible results, which

and lab-to-lab transferability.

have demonstrated great potential

This ensures the highest

in preclinical animal and clinical/

quantitative precision and

translational research.

reliability of analytical

Urine is an important body fluid in

The Avance IVDr system

and statistical results,

metabolomics due to little interference

at a throughput of

with metabolite binding proteins. Large

approximately 80 to 100

sample cohorts in clinical studies

urine samples in 24 hours.

demand automated solutions capable

Access to the Bruker data

analysis server provides automated remote analysis.

Overcoming quantification barriers

DID YOU KNOW?

Professor Claudio Luchinat at the University of Florence, a co-founder of the Magnetic

For more than 55 years, Bruker has enabled scientists to make breakthrough discoveries and develop new applications that improve the quality of human life.

Resonance Center (CERM), commented: ‘Metabolite quantification in human urine has proven a challenging task due to complex compositional

changes from test person to

Extract of a report automatically generated by B.I.QUANT-UR

test person, and even from the same person at different time points. Wet spiking methods according to DINnorm to detect the limit of detection are not delivering sufficient information for safe quantification.’ It is possible to overcome these barriers with the innovative Bruker NMR validation tools. ‘The new routines introduced for urine quantification also take into account substantial matrix changes going from neonates to children or adults, which all affect metabolite chemical shifts and lead to varying overlap situations due to ionic matrix changes in these two different age classes. We are directly engaged with Bruker in the project

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//R&D 1H NMR spectrum of urine

The new B.I.QUANTUR module is a completely automated solution that can replace multiple conventional analysis methods

phenotypes. This is further evidence of

disease markers and non-targeted

the expansion of our analysis support,

classification against healthy newborn

to optimise NMR shift prediction,’ the

providing automatic quantification of

models, opening new areas of research

professor added.

a variety of metabolites in urine directly

in frequent diseases such as diabetes,

after the measurement. The automated

metabolic syndrome and obesity.

Dr Iris Mangelshots, president of Bruker

The tool can be also used to investigate

BioSpin’s Applied, Industrial and Clinical

quantification is based on in-house

division, confirmed: ‘Bruker continues

developed algorithms involving fitting

the role nutrition and environmental

to innovate with the introduction of

predefined proton 1D NMR signals,

conditions play in health, including

novel and performance-leading NMR

with optional 2D NMR confirmation

functional food efficiency and drug

solutions for translational research

of identification.’

dosage. The IVDr profiling modules B.I.QUANT are for research use only and

markets. There is an increased demand numbers of samples due to increased

Opening doors to new research

cohorts in clinical studies. NMR is an

B.I.QUANT-UR can quantify up to 150

established tool for obtaining metabolic

metabolic compounds, including

of technologies able to analyse large

are not released for clinical diagnostics. •

Bruker – www.bruker.com/IVDr

Ad_177x130:Layout 1 2017/02/20 4:24 PM Page 1

We are Sartorius in South Africa Tel 011 315 5444 | sales@biotechsolutions.co.za www.biotechsolutions.co.za

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//R&D

The essential element in direct compression Anhydrous lactose is a versatile and proven excipient in diverse operations and manufacturing procedures. It has become an inherent part of excipient combinations and has repeatedly proven its ability to perform in challenging formulations.

eggle’s GRAS-listed

diverse, rapidly formed particles

dependent disintegration is insured

anhydrous lactose,

are subsequently classified by

favouring immediate release by rapid

DuraLac is Ph.Eur. JP and

comminution and sieving. Finally,

water imbibition. This is an essential crux

USP NF-monographed.

pharmaceutical anhydrous lactose

for the great majority of new chemical

It is known for its low overall water

grade DuraLac is packed either

entities showing the phenomenon of

content below 0.5 percent with a very

into 25kg carton boxes or 50kg fibre

reduced solubility.

low hygroscopicity of up to 70 percent

drums, both containing aluminium

RH at 25°C, as indicated by differential

laminated in-liners. The shelf life is

vapour-sorption (DVS). This enables

24 months, according to ICH Q1A

easy manageability in production

stability guidelines.

processes in critical climate zones.

Brittle, anhydrous lactose

Anhydrous lactose – a white to off-

preferentially deforms by a compaction

DuraLac was especially designed for direct compression

white, crystalline, odourless powder

mechanism, resulting in a large surface

– has a slightly sweet taste. Morphology

for binding with a rough surface

of anhydrous particles is different to

morphology. Anhydrous crystals

monoclinic sphenoidal crystals of

undergo brittle fracture increasingly

α-lactose monohydrate. Anhydrous

readily and at lower stresses than

lactose granules are remarkably dense,

the monohydrate1. Together with

exchangeability of various commercially

representing agglomerates of micro

plastically deforming components,

available anhydrous lactose grades,

crystals exhibiting a wide irregularity

it may so act as a stable ‘structure-

a rational approach could be helpful

in shape and breaking edges due to

giving element’, leading to synergistic

using drug substances with diverse

its production process. A typical laser

improvements during compaction

solubility, such as Theophylline (7.4g/l),

diffraction particle size distribution (PSD)

processes such as tabletting, slugging

Paracetamol (14g/l) and Diprophylline

exhibits a d50 value of 135 µm (d10 15 µm,

or roller compaction. A typical tablet

(330g/l). All results demonstrated

d90 310 µm), and a specific BETsurface area is found in the range between 0.3 and 0.4 m2/g. Anhydrous lactose appears as α- and ß-anomer. The ß-anomer exhibits higher water solubility and surface wetting.

Improving compaction synergistically

tensile strength of 2.5 N/mm2 for

DID YOU KNOW?

DuraLac placebos can be seen at a corresponding

Meggle offers dual sourcing and its DuraLac is produced in Le Sueur, in the USA in a state-of the art, exclusively pharma-dedicated production site. The site complies with cGMP-standards according to the Joint IPEC-PQG Good Manufacturing Practices Guide for Pharmaceutical Excipients and USP NF General Information Chapter 1078.

DuraLac’s starting material is a

compaction pressure

performance2,3. This makes DuraLac, which alternative in a formulation strategy with

common and can be

expanding flexibility. •

observed at a tablet hardness of 130N for neat anhydrous lactose grades.

Direct compression

DuraLac was especially designed unit operation and shows a robust

on two counter rotating drums at

performance in powder flow during

elevated temperatures. This process

high speed tabletting.

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

indicate equivalence of drug release is available locally from Achem, an ideal

for direct compression process

to Moore and Flanner, these values

forces up to 400N are

grade, dissolved in water and sprayed

of anhydrous lactose crystals. These

similarity factors of f2 > 50 and, according

of 180MPa. Ejection

compendial α-lactose monohydrate

leads to the spontaneous formation

When considering robustness and

Due to the elevated content of ß-lactose anomer, a fast, less hardness-

REFERENCES: 1. Bolhuis G.K., and Zak T.C., Materials for Direct Compression; Pharmaceutical Powder Compaction technology ed. by Alderborn G. and Nyström C, pp 419, Marcel Dekker, Inc., 1996 2. Moore J.W., and Flanner H.H., Mathematical comparison of dissolution profiles; Pharm. Tech. 20, pp 64-74, 1996 3. Penz F.K., DuraLac ® H: A new, alternative source of anhydrous lactose; APGI Gazette N° 30, pp 16, 2014

Amchem – www.amchem.co.za Meggle – www.meggle-pharma.com

DuraLac®. Anhydrous, directly compressible, reliable. From Meggle.

GMP/GDP certified

With DuraLac®, MEGGLE offers a premium grade of anhydrous lactose of reliable quality approved for global pharmaceutical applications. It is a unique pharmaceutical ingredient combining several properties to optimize your formulations in a single product. The benefits speak for themselves. And for DuraLac®:

– Perfectly suited for direct compression and dry granulation formulations – Excipient of choice for formulations with moisture sensitive drugs – Excellent hardness yield at low compaction forces – Moisture stable due to a relatively low hygroscopicity DuraLac® from MEGGLE: Your source for a reliable & quality anhydrous lactose

HEAD OFFICE GERMANY: www.meggle-pharma.com service.pharma@meggle.de Phone +49 8071 73 476

AMCHEM PTY. LTD. Pretoria, South Africa www.amchem.co.za mark@amchem.co.za Phone +27 (0)12 686 7082

HAIR CARE

Multifunctional emollients from nature The global hair care category continues to grow with new trends inspiring fresh product developments. Through its international principals, Savannah Fine Chemicals offers technical innovations for hair care products that meet the changing demands of all consumer groups and hair types.

aturally derived ingredients are

‘lending scent and an array of benefits such as

growing in popularity among hair care

moisturisation and nourishment.

formulators because they are both effective and on trend. According

Floratech’s Floraesters are unique, oil-free emollients derived from jojoba. This resilient,

to Mintel, 34 percent of women are looking for

sustainable desert plant contains unique lipids with

products with natural or organic ingredients with

superior emolliency. Jojoba is nature’s only source of

33 percent of this consumer group having recently

liquid wax esters making it very similar to the sebum

switched to natural or organic brands.

found on hair and skin.

In 2016, 61 percent of newly launched products Figure 1: Floraesters K-20W Jojoba and Floraesters K-100 Jojoba reduce wet comb force

were based on botanical and plant-based or

Blending nature with science

nature-inspired ingredients. Analysts at the global

Floraesters K-20W and K-100 Jojoba combine

research firm say plant-based ingredients aid the

nature and scientific innovation to provide benefits

perceived ‘naturalness’ of products in addition to

of hydration, strength and protection in hair care products. Suitable applications include shampoos, conditioners, pomades, anti-frizz sprays, serums, dyes and waxes. The Floraesters reduce breakage, frizz, comb force and dyeing time while increasing conditioning, heat protection, colour retention, hair dye intensity, quat performance, hair’s smoothness and softness, as well as volume. According to Floratech, there is a synergistic effect between glycerin and Floraesters K-20W Jojoba or Floraesters K-100 Jojoba. Due to their unique chemistry, the interaction between these ingredients results in better hydration performance and can boost long-lasting moisturisation in both leave-on and rinse-off products.

Improved hair conditioning Floratech has evaluated the potential of Floraesters K-20W Jojoba and K-100 Jojoba to improve hair conditioning as measured by wet comb force. Wet comb force measurements were taken at baseline and post-test article treatment. Test articles included shampoos with or without 2.5 percent Floraesters K-20W Jojoba and conditioners with or without one percent Floraesters K-100 Jojoba. The results revealed that wet comb force was reduced 48 percent on hair tresses treated with a combination of a shampoo with Floraesters K-20W Jojoba and a conditioner with Floraesters K-100 Jojoba, compared to the shampoo/ conditioner combination (see Figure 1).

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

HAIR CARE Figure 2: Floraesters K-20W Jojoba in a shampoo and Floraesters K-100 jojoba in a conditioner improve the colour retention of hair dyes

Vibrant colour for longer Floraesters K-20W Jojoba in a shampoo and Floraesters K-100 Jojoba in a conditioner improve the colour retention of hair dyes. To evaluate the potential of both products, the company dyed wool swatches with commercial red or brown permanent hair dyes. The swatches underwent eight treatment cycles (wash, rinse, condition and rinse) using shampoos and conditioners with or without 2.5 percent Floraesters K-20W Jojoba and one percent Floraesters K-100 Jojoba respectively. Change in colour (ΔE) from pre-treatment was measured after every two treatment cycles. The results showed that the wool swatches dyed with commercial red or brown permanent hair dyes retained up to 19 percent more colour (test article D) when treated with a shampoo containing 2.5 percent Floraesters K-20W Jojoba and a conditioner containing one percent Floraesters K-100 Jojoba, compared to the performance of a placebo shampoo and conditioner (see Figure 2). •

Floratech – www.floratech.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

HAIR CARE

Rejuvenating hair with

micro-proteins Nutrilan Keratin LM and Gluadin Kera-P LM penetrate deep into the hair cortex. Experts from BASF discuss the benefits and proven efficacy of these new low-molecular weight proteins. By Guadalupe Pellón, Christina Kohlmann and Christian Markiefka

ASF’s new low-molecular

environmental influences like UV light

percent. Both are gluten-free, halal-certified

weight proteins come with

and pollution, but also hair dyes,

and can be considered for products with EU

a strong package of claims:

straightening treatments and grooming

Ecolabel and Nordic Swan certification.

deep penetration, repair,

routines such as combing and styling. BASF developed Nutrilan Keratin

strengthening, robustness and mildness. These are coupled with differentiated claims for high-performance hair care products, like the advanced protection and renewal of the hair structure. Whereas the natural keratin building block Nutrilan Keratin LM is animal derived, the vegan

DID YOU KNOW?

LM and Gluadin Kera-P LM to protect hair, internally and externally, from the

Hair is stabilised through damaging effects of several mechanisms. For example, these stressors. incorporating protein fragments can Gluadin Kera P LM has stabilise hair by either affecting the matrix or interacting with keratin an amino acid spectrum filaments, which improves similar to that of keratins of the durability of the animal origin. Together with hair fibres.

alternative, Gluadin Kera-P LM, is

the natural keratin building

block Nutrilan Keratin LM, BASF

Proven internal repair and external protection While many protein hydrolysates influence the hair surface or cuticle, Nutrilan Keratin LM and Gluadin Kera-P LM penetrate the cuticle deep into the cortex where they refurnish hair with missing protein building blocks and contribute to stress-relief. On the hair’s surface, the micro-proteins protect the cuticle from free radical damage, which causes protein degradation and leads to weak hair.

BASF’s first low-molecular phyto-keratin for

offers two low-molecular weight cold

the personal care market.

processable proteins produced using

hair damage because of their double

enzymatic, non-GMO methods. Their

protective effect. Firstly, they scavenge free

recommended dosage is 0.5 to two

radicals preventing premature hair ageing.

Hair is exposed to numerous stressors on a daily basis. These not only include

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

The low-molecular weight proteins reduce

HAIR CARE Figure 1: Nutrilan Keratin LM penetrates the cortex (left) and remains active even after immersing the hair in 12 percent Texapon NSO for 24 hours (right)

Caucasian hair were

denaturation temperatures and lower

treated by three times

denaturation enthalpies are characteristic

persulfate bleaching,

of more damaged hair. In DSC, the

incubated in an

denaturation temperature can be seen as

aqueous solution

an indicator of the stability of the protein

of labelled protein

matrix, while the enthalpy is a measure of

hydrolysates (one

the content of α-helical material and its

percent active

structural rigidity.

for eight hours),

The new micro-proteins’ potential to repair

immersed in active

damaged hair was measured by means

surfactant solution (12

of DSC. Strands of Caucasian hair were

Secondly, they diminish copper bonding on

percent Texapon NSO for 24 and 72 hours)

damaged by three times ultra-bleaching.

hair and reduce the damage caused by

and dried. Ultimately, the deep penetration

Damaged hair treated with an aqueous

oxidative stress.

was sustained (see Figure 1).

solution of protein hydrolysates (five

Several tests have been carried out to

percent protein hydrolysate) for 24 hours

support each claim: penetration, hair repair

Repairing the tresses

showed higher denaturation temperature

and hair strengthening within (cortex)

Hair is a complex composite material,

and enthalpy, which was interpreted as

and external protection against free

consisting of α-helical crystalline proteins

hair repair.

radicals (cuticle).

embedded in a matrix of amorphous

Confocal fluorescence microscopy

Based on the DSC denaturation

non-crystalline protein material. Differential

temperature results, Gluadin Kera-P LM

provided evidence that the amount of total

scanning calorimetry (DSC) is a highly

shows improved efficacy in restoring the

protein penetrating the cortex exceeds

sensitive method for determining the

amorphous protein matrix than Nutrilan

that of higher molecular weight keratin

denaturation temperature of the protein

Keratin LM. The denaturation temperature

hydrolysates. These proteins also remain

structure of human hair. This is the

increased by 60 percent with Gluadin Kera-P

active in hair even after it has been washed.

temperature at which the protein structure

LM and 35 percent with Nutrilan Keratin

breaks down when heated. In addition,

LM (see Figure 2). This might be due to the

hydrolysates were labelled with fluorescein

the energy – enthalpy – required for that

even lower molecular weight of Gluadin

isothiocyanate (FITC). Strands of virgin

breakdown is measured. In general, lower

Kera-P LM.

To measure this activity, the protein

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

HAIR CARE Figure 2: By strengthening the protein matrix, Gluadin Kera-P LM leads to a 60 percent higher denaturation temperature

treated with HB-DE-179-1 conditioner, with or without one percent protein hydrolysate. Gluadin Kera-P LM reduced breakage by 20 percent, while Nutrilan Keratin LM reduced breakage by 50 percent – demonstrating that LM protein hydrolysates make hair more resistant to mechanical stress (see Figure 3). The effect of the micro-proteins on combability was measured in combing tests on dry hair after a repetitive treatment (five times). Virgin Caucasian hair was washed five times with HB-DE-173-12 shampoo with or without one percent protein hydrolysate, and then dried. Gluadin Kera-P LM reduced combing work by 15 percent and Nutrilan Keratin LM by 20 percent. These results conclude that Nutrilan Keratin LM stabilises the α-helical protein, DSC enthalpy results correlate with the

break. To evaluate the micro-proteins’

with improved structural rigidity and hair

integrity of the α-helical protein structure of

strengthening efficacy, ultra-bleached

toughness, whereas Gluadin Kera-P LM

the hair, which is where Nutrilan Keratin LM

strands of Caucasian hair were treated

restores the non-helical protein filling up

demonstrates the better results. This could

with five percent protein hydrolysate versus

the matrix.

be explained using hair strengthening and

a placebo for 24 hours. With Nutrilan

its integrity.

Keratin LM, toughness increased by almost

Protection of the cuticle

20 percent.

During oxidative processes such as

Strengthening the locks

The proteins’ effect on hair breakage was

bleaching, colouring and exposure to

The durability of hair can be measured

measured in gravimetric combing tests.

sunlight, copper catalyses the formation of

by extending single hair fibres until they

Medium-bleached Caucasian hair was

free radicals that cause protein degradation

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

HAIR CARE Figure 3: Gravimetric combing test on medium bleached Caucasian hair with conditioner formulated with/without one percent Nutrilan Keratin LM and one percent Gluadin Kera-P LM

in the cuticle. Most copper comes from water sources used to wash hair. In cooperation with the Gematria Test Lab, a specialist in free radical research, BASF showed less copper ions bind to hair after being treated with Nutrilan Keratin LM or Gluadin Kera-P LM. Two times ultrableached Caucasian hair was cut into pieces, each measuring one centimetre. Samples of 10mg were incubated for 20 minutes in an aqueous solution with five protein hydrolysates (one percent active) or a placebo solution, and then rinsed. Thereafter, the strands were incubated in a 40mM CuSO4 solution for 10 minutes, rinsed off twice and inserted into the electron spin resonance (ESR) spectrometer (Magnettech MS 300) to determine the amount of copper that bound to the hair. The results showed Nutrilan Keratin LM reduced copper binding on the cuticle by 20 percent and Gluadin Kera-P LM by 30 percent. Photometric measurement was used to

especially for high pH applications. The low-molecular proteins Nutrilan

radicals. These modes of action protect the cuticle, reducing damage caused by

determine the level of protection against

Keratin LM and Gluadin Kera-P LM penetrate

oxidative stress and preventing premature

free radicals. The results were benchmarked

through the cuticle deep into the cortex.

hair ageing. •

against Trolox, the water-soluble Vitamin

On the hair surface, they provide a double

E analog, showing that LM protein

protective effect, decreasing copper

hydrolysates are very active anti-oxidants,

bonding on the hair and scavenging free

BASF – www.basf.com

Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz

Sensetek.indd 1

2017/03/02 11:50 AM

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

HAIR CARE

Managing multifunctional hair care

t can be challenging for a formulator

structure. One of them is a high refractive

to create a hair care product with

index. This significantly improves hair’s

multiple benefits, which include shine,

shine and glossiness. It also has good

gloss and softness. Wacker’s Belsil

surface characteristics, which ensure hair

PF 200 makes the task manageable.

stays pleasantly soft and supple even after

The silicone fluid has a high refractive

being washed or styled.

index, which enables the formulation of

The product is user-friendly and offers

Wacker’s Belsil PF 200 enables the formulation of shampoos, conditioners and hair sprays

shampoos, conditioners and hair sprays

the formulator significant processing

that enhance hair’s shine and glossiness

advantages. Unlike conventional phenyl

and produce a soft after-feel. It also has

silicone fluids, which are not readily

excellent processing properties, being self-

miscible with water, Belsil PF 200 is self-

emulsifying in water and readily miscible

emulsifying in water due to its polarity. It

with cosmetics oils and esters – facilitating

dissolves in water-based formulations and

conditioners and hair styling products. It

transparent formulations.

produces a transparent microemulsion,

can also be used for colour cosmetics, such

which can be formulated easily.

as lipsticks, lip gloss and foundation, or skin

Beneficial to the consumer and formulator

care products like body lotions and body

Belsil PF 200 is a phenyl-modified

A multifunctional crosscategory offering

polydimethylsiloxane with many beneficial

The silicone fluid is ideal for creating

properties because of its chemical

water-based products such as shampoos,

creams and in sun care applications. •

Wacker – www.wacker.com

CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS

NEW! GENTLE CLEANSING, OUTSTANDING LATHER. WACKER BELSIL ® DM 5700 E

WACKER BELSIL® DM 5700 E, the shampoo evolution, is a new silicone fluid emulsion that uses emulsifiers from renewable raw materials to provide stability. Unusually easy on the skin, this mildly cleansing haircare product is ideal for formulating sulfate-free shampoos. BELSIL® DM 5700 E also possesses what traditional products often lack: a pleasant lather. Its fine-pored, intensely creamy structure pampers customers as soon as they massage it in. Tiny oil droplets (300 nm) fill in micro-cracks in hairs for a supply, shiny result. For more information, visit www.wacker.com/belsil

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

HAIR CARE

Essential natural

hair care ingredients Ethnic hair has unique needs. Natchem, with its large portfolio of natural ingredients from Greentech, offers multiple solutions for Africa’s hair care industry.

hen it comes to hair care,

study the efficacy of existing raw materials

it is vital for South African

and new complex oil compositions on Ethnic

consumers to know how

hair. This is because 52 percent of global

certain ingredients perform

hair care product claims use words such as

on their hair. Natchem has realised this need

botanical or natural, and more and more

and the gap for potential growth in South

local consumers are including natural oils

Africa’s hair care market. The company

and butters into their hair care regimes.

teamed up with its principal, Greentech, to

The more common oils are olive, avocado

Figure 1: Greentech’s Murumuru butter visibly repairs damaged hair fibres

Placebo

Thanks to its fatty acid content, Murumuru butter is ideal for use on dry skin and scalp. It prevents water loss from skin’s cutaneous layers, leaving it bettermoisturised and re-balanced. Murumuru butter is obtained from kernels of the Astrocaryum murumuru tree, which is native to South America and widespread in the Amazon Basin. The natural fatty extract is produced by cold-pressing the palm tree kernels.

Murumuru butter is ideal for use on dry skin and scalp The generally recognised composition of

and coconut oil, which are known for their

Murumuru butter includes Lauric, Myristic,

ability to penetrate the hair shaft. While

Oleic, Palmitic, Stearic and Linoleic acids.

these oils are excellent and tried and tested,

Owing to its lipidic nature, Murumuru

there are other more exotic oils and butters,

butter forms a protective layer on the hair

which are highly beneficial for natural hair.

fibre and smoothes the cuticle. Its natural

These include Murumuru and Kpangnan

gloss brings a desirable shine to dry and

butters, and Argan, Baobab and Inca Inchi

damaged hair. It can be formulated into

oils, which are produced by Greentech

shampoos, conditioners and moisturising

and distributed throughout South Africa

skin care products.

by Natchem.

When tested on Ethnic hair in a conditioner formulation containing one

Murumuru butter

Beautiful Brazilian butter

percent Murumuru butter, the ingredient

During the ’40s and ’50s, Murumuru butter

performed well against a placebo

was highly valued in the USA and Europe,

product. Following test protocol, scanning

when it served as an ingredient in vegetable

electron microscopy (SEM) analysis

creams and soaps. Today the ingredient is

showed smoothened hair scales and

widely acclaimed for its benefits in hair and

regulated hair fibres owing to the damage

skin care products.

repair properties of Murumuru butter

Soaps containing Murumuru butter are

(see Figure 1). •

known to leave a protective film on skin, much like the activity of silicone. However, in contrast to silicone, which is synthetic, Murumuru is of natural origin.

Greentech – www.greentech.fr Natchem – www.natchem.co.za

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

HAIR CARE

The root of revitalisation A loss in hair density is considered a sign of ageing. Diet, stress and hereditory factors can cause hair to weaken and eventually fall. Vincience BiotHAIRapy from Ashland offers a solution to help protect and combat the visual effects of ageing, thinning hair.

shland’s roadmap to beautiful hair is based on BiotHAIRapy biofunctionals, which consists of patented ingredient systems inspired by key biological

markers associated with hair growth, density, strength and colour. The portfolio has been developed by Ashland’s Vincience research centre, which is represented in South Africa by Millchem. Maintaining hair density over time is one of consumers’ most valued attributes, yet it remains one of the most elusive. To meet consumers’ needs for denser, stronger and healthier hair, Ashland’s Vincience research centre has produced an ingredient extracted from yeast, which is inspired by

Table 1: Panelists saw reduction in hair fall when using the Dynagen biofunctional formulation versus the control formulation

key structured proteins.

Dynagen biofunctional This patent-pending yeast extract is designed to nurture essential markers to help minimise hair fall and strengthen the hair follicle while nourishing the hair root. By targeting specific protein markers, in vitro studies have shown that Dynagen biofunctional may help protect and combat the visual effects of ageing, thinning hair. It may also help with the reinforcement and stability of the hair follicle. The ability of Dynagen biofunctional to minimise hair fall was evaluated in a clinical study. A consumer-perceivable anti-hair fall benefit was shown in the study results; hair felt stronger, thicker and healthier (see Table 1). Trichogram methodology (anagen to telogen ratio measurement) confirmed that the formulation with Dynagen biofunctional delivered a significant anti-hair fall effect. Within

RebuildingConditionerAd 65mm (H) x 177mm (W)b Paths.indd 1

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

2017/07/17 12:18:46 PM

HAIR CARE

Maintaining hair density over time is one of consumers’ most valued attributes

LAUNCHED AT IN-COSMETICS IN 2015, ASHLAND demonstrated the benefits of Dynagen biofunctional in conditioning milk spray (see

Table 2: Conditioning milk spray formulation guide

Ingredients (INCI/Trade name)

% W/W

Deionised Water Polyquaternium-11/Gafquat 755N polymer

3.50

Ashland

PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone/Wacker DMC 6031, silicone

1.00

Wacker

Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate/Liquid Germall Plus, preservative

0.50

Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Trideceth-6/RapiThix A-60, polymer

0.32

Styrene/VP Copolymer/Antara/Polectron 430

1.00

Water (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrolysed Yeast Protein/ Dynagen, biofunctional

1.00

Total

100

Ashland

stronger, smoother and shinier. Dynagen biofunctional can be formulated into maintenance and strengthening treatments, anti-

fuller, stronger, shinier and healthier hair-feel.

Ashland

improved appearance of their hair, reporting it was

spray left hair fuller, stronger and shinier. In vivo studies

study revealed consumer-perceivable benefits in terms of

Ashland

anti-hair fall effects. They also observed an overall

a variety of anti-hair fall applications including

benefits in terms of hair strength, while a consumer panel

Ashland

three weeks, panelists started to observe noticeable

Table 2) at in-cosmetics. When applied to the scalp, the

on the formulation have demonstrated measurable

Supplier

92.68

ageing products for hair, scalp treatments, hair serums and tonics as well as leave-in conditioners. •

Ashland – www.ashland.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

HAIR CARE

Sustainable and efficient conditioning CIM Chemicals has launched Danox HC-30, a new hair conditioning system from Kao Corporation. The system is based on a synergistic combination of cationic surfactants and fatty alcohol, which allows a single-step formulation process.

conditioning formulations. It can be used to prepare

hair conditioning creams and emulsions and is suitable for use in a wide range of products. Its single-step formulation process is of great benefit to the formulator because it saves on production time and

formulation can also be produced at a high temperature to enhance its performance.

New formulation trends Focusing on the newest trends in the

market, Danox HC-30 is suitable for formulating hair sprays, deep moisturising masks and cleansing conditioners. The latter is a hot topic in the Ethnic hair care market with women with thick or curly hair actively seeking more modern solutions to cleanse their hair and maintain its moisture. Unlike traditional shampoos, cleansing conditioners contain little or no sulphates, which

anox HC-30 is a solid product with an excellent performance in hair

sustainable production methods. The

are perceived to dry out the hair.

DID YOU KNOW?

With cleansing conditioners, the lines between washing and conditioning are blurred. They wash while

Danox HC-30 is suitable for all hair types. It provides excellent detangling results comparable to Behentrimonium Chloride and better than shorter alkyl chain cationic surfactants like Cetrimonium Chloride.

requires less storage space. It can

preserving hair’s natural oils, protecting it from external damage from UV irradiation, heat styling, bleaching or straightening treatments.

Compatible and easy to use

Danox HC-30 is compatible with silicones

be processed at low temperature for those

and acts as a viscosity builder, reducing

manufacturers looking to implement more

the need for additional ingredients in the formulation. It is also compatible with polymers,

Main features of Danox HC-30:

other cationic surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, emulsifiers, extracts, vitamins, humectants and dyes. The conditioning system can be used in a

• hair conditioning system

wide range of concentrations, from 2.5 percent

• vegetable origin

for leave-on conditioners to 12 percent for hair

• environmentally friendly

masks. Typical concentrations for standard

• t wo-in-one product

hair conditioners are between four and eight

• ready to use

percent, depending on the desired viscosity of

• easy to handle

the final product or the required performance. •

• hot and cold processable • optimised performance.

CIM Chemicals – www.cim.co.za

National Chemical raw material suppliers for the personal care, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries

Brad: 060 583 5324

www.cim.co.za

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

SOUTH AFRICAN

REVIEW August 2017 | Volume 43 | Number 8

Un co pac d de m in kin AN ve g g lo ar D pm k enin ts g

www.pharmacos.co.za

Reasons to visit Propak Cape 2017 A look at customisable beauty packaging

NEWS

Coding into the future INCREASING INDUSTRY REGULATIONS are driving the need for better serialisation in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics

UNVEILING A NEW COLLECTION ALBÉA HAS DEVELOPED its Fast-Track Beauty

mould modularity

multi-faceted offer that provides ‘turnkey’ and

and decoration.

industries. Reliable and legible codes on

time-to-market packaging solutions. According

packaging offer consumers a promise

to Albéa, these solutions are because of its agile

changing quickly.

of brand trust while the absence of a

processes and technology. Fast-Track Beauty is a

Innovation is

code can cause doubtfulness around

selection of inventive, trendy, market ready and

accelerating, competition is fiercer and volatility

authenticity or a product’s ‘freshness’.

easily customisable products, including applicators, full-service

This creates mistrust and when there are more questions on consumers’ minds than

promotional items,

‘Our market is

higher. Digitalisation is disrupting beauty’s business and marketing models. As a result, the name of the game now is time to market,’ explains

answers provided on packaging, shoppers

Anne Rutigliano, marketing director at Albéa

may abandon the purchase.

Beauty Solutions.

Laser technology continues to be at the

The company’s Focus collection is its first Fast-

forefront of serialisation technology with

Track Beauty offer. Focus is a ready-to-go collection

developers continually in search of system

of packs and formulas, in line with the colour

improvements, which cost less to produce,

expression trend and inspired by makeup artists and

code faster on wider ranges of substrates and are more compact. I’ve come to learn that constant evolution is

Albéa’s Focus Collection

beauty bloggers. It is a combination of specifically chosen packs, formulas and applicators, in a stylish square design

the status quo with packaging

range. It is also completely customisable.

machinery across all industry segments. You can read more

ALPLA acquires Boxmore

about the evolution of continuous inkjet coding on page 44 in this edition of PACKAGING REVIEW. Enjoy the read.

Assistant Editor Aarifah.Nosarka@ newmediapub.co.za

Don’t miss the upcoming Cape expo THE PACKAGING, PLASTICS, printing

and expertise on a variety of important

and labelling exhibition, Propak Cape

industry topics.

takes place from 24 to 26 October

The expo will showcase cutting-edge

at the Cape Town International

advancements in the packaging and

Convention Centre.

related industries within the region.

‘Visitors can expect to see many

More than 200 hundred local and

LEN ENGELBRECHT, BOXMORE CEO shakes hands with Günther Lehner, ALPLA CEO, subsequent to the Austrian company’s biggest acquisition yet of Boxmore Packaging. The

leading South African and international

international exhibitors will be displaying

companies at Propak Cape with

their products, equipment, machinery

the opportunity to source new

and services, across the packaging,

products, access the latest trends and

food processing, plastics, printing and

employees across nine locations. All

technologies and meet new and existing

labelling industries.

employees and locations are being

suppliers,’ says Sven Riddle, event director at Specialised Exhibitions Montgomery. Technical experts will also be available

There will be live demonstrations

company, headquartered in Samrand, Johannesburg, has about 1 000

taken on by ALPLA. The management

showcasing different machinery and

structure will remain the same while the

equipment in action.

current board, under the leadership of

at the show to discuss the right solutions

Engelbrecht, will continue to manage

for business growth.

existing business. Lehner says the

A series of free-to-attend seminars will add further value for visitors. Industry leaders are set to share their knowledge

| AUGUST 2017 | Packaging Review

purchase provides ALPLA with a broad base to enter the South African market.

Αre you ready to change to Next Generation Marking and Coding? TracePack specialises in the sale of equipment to mark, code or label your products. We provide a solution from the exit of the filler, flow wrapper, form fill and seal machines all the way to palletisation. We convey it, pack it, code it, mark it, track it, scan it, verify and authenticate it.

LΑSER CODING & MΑRKING

LΑRGE CHΑRΑCTER PRINTING

LΑBELLING & LΑBEL SYSTEMS

CODING SYSTEMS

Apply lot codes, best before dates and important company information typically found on the packaging of products. Lasers can be used to apply such codes because of their ability to mark on paper, board, glass and plastics that are typically used in packaging.

Not only must the composition of the product be clearly printed so as to avoid any mishandling, but secondary packaging must also comply with current legislation on identification and traceability. Our high-resolution printers are therefore perfectly suited to this sector.

Simple & easy to use complete self-adhesive labelling systems, label applicators and print & apply labellers that can be integrated with any production and packaging line. Designed in accordance with GAMP guidelines, equipped with all the necessary devices making them suitable for the pharmaceutical, cosmetic & personal hygiene sectors.

Our inkjet printers print high speed, reliable lot/ date, sell-by date and other identifying marks and codes on a wide range of substrates including plastic, glass, paper and more. Low solvent consumption and exceptional reliability equates to lowest total cost to ownership.

Contact TracePack today: +27 10 020 7221 | sales@tracepack.co.za | www.tracepack.co.za

CODING & MARKING

Inroads to

SEAMLESS CODES

Maximised productivity, continuous quality supply and reduced downtime are important capabilities of coding and marking systems. Aarifah Nosarka brings you the latest on technologies designed for fast packing lines, difficult to mark substrates and new machines to assist in achieving traceability goals.

C The 9405 CIJ coder

ontinuous InkJet (CIJ) coding,

processes. They can be used in harsh

one of the oldest printing

environments with a variety of inks,

technologies is still in use

dependent on an industry’s needs. To

today. This is testament to CIJ’s versatility,

ensure fast drying times, solvent-based

printing tolerances, reliability and cost

inks containing alcohol or ketones can

effectiveness. It is frequently the system of choice where reliability, speed and flexibility are needed. It

Graphics printing, expiration dates and barcodes can be achieved using

meets the high-speed printing

small character CIJ printers. These offer

demands of numerous

precision, and work seamlessly with

industries. With a myriad uses

surfaces that are curved, flat or textured.

in different industries, CIJ’s capabilities extend to marking most substrates. Described as a

Pyrotec’s machinery division, Pyrotec PackMark recently launched the 9405 CIJ coder from Markem-Imaje. Its quick

simple technology, it works by creating a

multiline message set-up offers optimal

continuous flow of ink by pushing liquid

line effectiveness. The 9405 also provides

ink through a gun body and microscopic

for continuous quality coding with long

nozzle via a high-pressure pump. These

maintenance intervals. This is supported

Siyakha Imperial Printing Co.

non-contact continuous ink systems

by its hygienic fully stainless-steel design

welcomes international delegates

virtually eliminate potential damage to

with no retention zones, which allow easy

from Mozambique, Zimbabwe and

packaging or products during printing

daily wash down (full IP55).

Connecting Africa

Botswana to its facility based in Mount Edgecombe, KwaZulu-Natal.

be used.

| AUGUST 2017 | Packaging Review

CODING & MARKING INTEGRATED SOLUTION FOR DIVERSE APPLICATIONS

TECHNOLOGY UPGRADE DOMINO PRINTING SCIENCES is addressing

Tracepack presents the Macsa HPD series used in the

He says high print quality

packaged goods markets for

specific customer needs by upgrading

and code durability are

its current range of coding and marking

key to good performance,

– achieved using one system. The

products to incorporate the new i-Techx

while reduced errors and

series is described as powerful, high

high-performance electronics and software

downtime are also priorities.

platform. Following the successful launch

‘One of the key

cutting, perforating and coding

performance CO2 lasers that deliver David Cro

of the Ax-Series of CIJ printers in 2016,

technology pillars of this

which are already integrated with i-Techx,

range is i-Techx. This technology is

the company will continue to expand

designed to optimise customers’ return on

the x-Series by introducing the ‘game-

investment throughout the printers’ lifetime

changing’ technology across the majority of

and eliminate coding errors,’ says Croft.

its portfolio.

high power density. This enables effective cutting and perforating of flexible plastic films, foils and other materials. Not only is the Macsa HPD able to mark high resolution images onto several non-metallic substrates but also enables coding on difficult to code

It enables the smooth integration of the

substrates. The combination of cutting

Ax-Series into the production line and service

and coding makes this particular laser

and industry regulations are driving

support environment, while taking usability to

appropriate for integration with form, fill

significant growth for the global coding

a new level.

and seal machines and similar equipment,

‘Product traceability, anti-counterfeiting

and marking industry,’ explains David Croft,

‘Our strategy is to integrate the i-Techx

global product marketing manager – CIJ, at

platform into the rest of our product ranges,’

Domino Printing Sciences.

he concludes.

where it is needed to cut flexible plastic film and apply lot code information to it. Tracepack’s lasers have the ability to code on a range of films, flexible packaging materials and substrates

ketone-free, thermochromic and MEK-

such as polypropylene, orientated

free inks, to help manufacturers achieve

polypropylene, polyethylene terephthalate,

traceability and sustainability goals.

polyethylene and more.

Print features include the Markem-

Gary Chilton, general manager at

Imaje’s Jet Speed Control that guarantees

Tracepack says there are numerous

marking quality at a printing resolution

advantages associated with a laser.

of 71dpi. It reaches print speeds of up to

Among these advantages are speed,

4.6m per second for up to five lines of print.

environmentally friendliness and the

Font height ranges from five to 32 dots for

provision of a stable and permanent mark.

multiline messages and character heights

‘A clean, accurate cut and great

from 1.5 to 11mm. Additionally, a wide

flexibility due to a large capacity for

choice of 1D, 2D barcodes, Datamatrix and

adaptation in complex processes,

QR codes are offered.

are easily obtained with a laser. The synchronisation of several lasers can

Cutting, perforating and coding can be achieved with the Macsa HPD

make a great variety of applications from simple lines, to contours for reusable packaging. The laser cutting is versatile

The 9405 comprises an intuitive WYSIWYG seven-inch colour touch screen

and functional since it can make all kinds

with real-time display of remaining print

of shapes in order to obtain a great variety

capacity. Not only is this expressed in hours and number of messages, but also an integrated assistance and alert system with simplified message printing and management and the ability to create user profiles. These features ensure operators can manage the technology without a need for support. It is easily configured. Codes can be quickly created or uploaded via a USB connection, or through the international operator/machine interface with a number

The Linx CSL60 laser

of language options. The 9405’s smart design ensures seamless integration. It offers a broad array of ink options, including multi-use, high-performance,

Packaging Review | AUGUST 2017 |

CODING & MARKING

A capability of the Linx CSL60 laser

THE VALUE OF MARKING AND CODING

The 9405’s coding on packaging

EVERYDAY EXAMPLES OF coding and

The laser cutting is versatile, functional and can make all kinds of shapes to obtain a variety of customised packaging adapted to your needs of customised packaging adapted to your needs,’ Chilton explains. Another model is the Bestcode 88S, which is targeted at high speed, high use applications. It can print up to five lines of text, barcodes or graphics from 1.5mm to 19mm in height. This technology can print speeds of up to 600m per minute for a single line of print and up to 150m per minute for two lines of print. A complete range of dye and soft-pigmented inks are available as well as specialised inks for bottling applications including caustic washable inks for glass and plastics.

DELIVERING PRODUCTIVITY The launch of the Linx CSL60 laser is designed to take on the challenge of achieving highest quality codes on ultra-fast packing lines with difficult to mark substrates. It combines a powerful processor and 60W laser tube with Linx’s unique Visicode system. This assists in the production of crisp, clear codes on difficult-to-mark materials such as glass and PET at high speeds. It further enables manufacturers to meet all compliance requirements and provides effective brand protection and enhancement. The laser incorporates a powerful processor able to relay messages from the control unit to the marking head quickly, which ensures that line speeds are unaffected. As a result, up to 70 000 packs can be marked per

| AUGUST 2017 | Packaging Review

marking include barcodes, serialisation codes, and expiry or ‘best by’ dates. Pyrotec lists three reasons product owners print marks and codes on their product packaging: hour. The Linx CSL60 supports production

1. M eeting traceability requirements –

line efficiencies to help deliver overall

by printing barcodes and serialisation

equipment effectiveness. For example, the

codes on every product manufactured,

availability of complete IP65 protection for

as well as on cartons used to transport

the controller and laser head means that

these goods, product owners can trace

a fully integrated system can now remain

products moving through the supply

in situ during wash down to minimise

chain. This enables anyone involved in

downtime. It offers 25 different head and

the supply chain to identify individual

lens options and provides over 16 000

lots, shipments and packages, informing

combinations of lens, marking heads and

of the products’ source and where they

tubes. Each laser has the ability to run

are destined. This also allows product

at its optimum power level, which helps

owners to efficiently recall products

extend the life of the equipment. It is easily installed, even on lines where space is

if needed. 2. D elivering assurance on product

restricted. Additionally, the technology

authenticity – in the pharmaceutical

can be integrated with existing packing

industry where counterfeiting is a major

and labelling equipment. For operators,

problem, product owners use marking

the proven LinxVision touch screen ensures

and coding to prove the authenticity of

quick and easy creation and selection of

their products. This makes it possible

messages for reduced errors, faster setup

for retailers, consumers and everyone

and minimised downtime.

involved in the supply chain to

‘In competitive markets, meeting compliance requirements and ensuring your brand is fully protected are vital, but neither quality nor productivity can be sacrificed in achieving these,’ says Matt Eastham, the laser business manager at Linx Printing Technologies. He says the Linx CSL60 has been specifically designed to satisfy the fastest speeds with superior quality codes. •

Domino Printing Sciences – www.domino-printing.com Linx Printing Technologies – www.linxglobal.com Pyrotec – www.pyrotec.co.za Siyakha Imperial Printing Co – www.labelprint.co.za Tracepack – www.tracepack.co.za

immediately trace a product back to its point of origin. This way it can be tested for its legitimacy, safety in transit, sale or usage. 3. Providing information on product freshness – shoppers check the expiry, ‘best-by’ and ‘use-by’ dates on products they buy to ensure these are safe and fresh to consume. These markings help consumers derive maximum value from their basket of goods, as well as reduce food waste. The purpose of marking and coding is to keep everyone in the supply chain, retailers and shoppers 100 percent informed about a product, providing details about its origin, authenticity and shelf life.

ASSOCIATION NEWS//

CECOSA renews its strategy The Cosmetic Export Council of South Africa (CECOSA) has undergone several positive changes, which are set to strengthen the council going forward. Its executive director, Theresa Moller shares CECOSA’s fresh focus and objectives with Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review.

oller, who took over

one of vast potential for our

from Adele Weldon

members,’ Moller explains.

• environmental – barriers to trade such as environmental laws • international – barriers to trading on a

in April this year, is

local exports and ensuring

TAKING SOUTH AFRICA TO THE WORLD

CECOSA meets the needs of

CECOSA is a Section 21

its members, government and

non-profit organisation,

the cosmetics industry. To meet

which has a public-private-

in a country or region, its research

these goals, changes have

partnership with the dti. Its

capabilities and strengths, as well as

wholly committed to growing

been made at board level,

Theresa Moller

primary objective is to create

which include the appointment

an exporting environment

global level • legal – covering compliance, consumer standards and legislation • technological – predominant technologies

support industries • s ocio-cultural – population growth,

of a new chairperson, Judith Moralo, who is

that will promote increased business

cultural beliefs, attitude towards

the co-founder and MD of Marple Skin Care.

opportunities for South African companies.

grooming and cosmetics, religion and

CECOSA’s export strategy has also shifted

This is coupled with its mission to highlight

in terms of the international

South Africa’s world-class

generational skills • economic – the strength or weakness

markets it will focus on during

cosmetics and personal care

of a country’s currency and the viability

2017/18. Asia, Saudi Arabia

products on a global scale.

thereof, disposable income of its

and Africa are the key focal

It currently has 84 members.

points with an application for

CECOSA also has associate

funding already submitted

members and a list of

population, unemployment rate, economic performance and its market structure.

to the Department of

approved industry service

Trade and Industry (dti) for

providers, which its members

FOCUS ON GOVERNANCE AND COMPLIANCE

Professional Beauty Mumbai

are advised to use when

Along with its renewed structure, CECOSA is

in September. A total of 20

exhibiting at international trade

placing increased emphasis on governance

shows. These include logistics

and compliance. Moller explains: ‘Through

taking part in this exhibition.

and freight, BEE consultants,

our associate members and approved

An outward selling mission is also

finance and funding, metrology,

suppliers, the council plans to assist

applicants are interested in

Judith Mor

planned into Africa, targeting Tanzania, Kenya and Nigeria. ‘While the export council focused on the

alo

sales and marketing, and travel agents. CECOSA’s export strategy support model

members achieve regulatory compliance and develop manufacturing competence

is grouped into the following eight areas

and systems. We will also look to develop

European Union and Australia in previous

of focus:

industry syndication in the procurement of

years, through recent research, CECOSA

• political – countries or regions that are

ingredients and packaging and assist our

has identified pockets of opportunity

politically stable to do business with and

members with their market access strategies

in India and China for example, where

which provide stability in terms of their

for international markets.’

there are 20 million middle class users

regulatory environment

of cosmetics products. We have also

• demographical – covering the level of

Visit www.cecosa.co.za for more information about the council, on how

identified that there are no manufacturers

education, workforce availability and

to become a member and its approved

of cosmetics in Kenya, making this market

average lifespan in a country or region

industry suppliers. •

| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

ASSOCIATION NEWS//

A fabulous colour palette The colour cosmetics category is an exciting one based on fashion and lifestyle trends. Karen Maier from Merck South Africa shared this excitement at the recent Colouring in the Trends afternoon lecture, hosted by the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem).

e cannot

inspirational because of their

shades of orange that complement local

look forward

symbolism of people having fun

skin tones,’ she explained.

without looking

together,’ Maier added.

back’, Maier reiterated to attendees at lecture hosted

Strobing – the new contouring – is

Popular pastel colours include ice cream tones, milkshakes and shades of candy

one of the most popular makeup

floss with seasonal intensity while the blue

at Evonik South Africa, in Midrand,

techniques emanating from the

and grey palette is inspired by the ocean,

Gauteng on 7 July. She was talking

Coachella arts festival. ‘Strobing is

sand, seashells and the silvery tones of

about trend forecasting and how

all about the glow. Using radiance

sunlight on water. Colours with drama

the globally recognised, Dutch trend

colours such as gold, rose gold and

include burgundy and purple, deep black

forecaster, Lidewij Edelkoort says it’s important to consider

silver to achieve a highlighted effect.

DID YOU KNOW?

history and the influences of the past (’60s, ’70s and ’80s) to know

Strobing product examples include powders, lipsticks and pencils.’

or pure white inspired by the Rio carnival. For more information about upcoming afternoon lectures and seminars, send an email to bridget@iafrica.com. •

Genderless beauty

First a food industry trend, the slow and workout movement is also permeating the cosmetics industry. Slow cosmetics is a colour cosmetics makeup are also new ethical, eco-friendly movement, which in particular developing trends favours the consumption of cosmetics in a more will progress. to watch in colour responsible way. It has inspired the launch of To develop cosmetics, while food-like, often homemade or DIY cosmetics colour forecasts, Maier said the products with Merck’s strawberry smoothie refreshing leg treatment and trend forecasters upcoming season its Berry Cheesecake Shaping work with companies is all about ultra Blush being innovative like Merck, studying the femininity. ‘Glamourous examples. how fashion and

latest fashion and design

looks and perfect grooming

launches, lifestyle offerings,

will be popular with power

social and economic influences, the

dressing and masculine looks being

arts and environmental concerns

updated or taking a back seat.’

among others. ‘It’s important to keep abreast

ORANGE MAKES A COMEBACK

of trends and put colour into

Maier said the colours to watch for the

context,’ Maier explained. ‘Think

2018/19 seasons include pastels, blues

of your brand story or that of your

and greys, and colours with drama.

customers so that the colour trends can

‘Orange is making a comeback yet it’s

have meaning to your business, product

a contentious colour in South Africa.

or brand.’

For it to be popular in the market, formulators need to find the right

EVENTS THAT INSPIRE NEW TRENDS Colours for upcoming seasons are inspired by various events, the most prominent being the makeup tutorials from the Coachella Music and Arts Festival – a celebrity hotspot – and the Holi Festival of Colours, which largely influences pastel shades.

Attendees at Coschem’s Colouring in the Trends afternoon lecture having fun and experimenting with Merck’s 2017 colour cosmetics sample kits

‘Festivals are

P C Review | AUGUST 2017 |

Tea time

TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

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info@vactech.co.za

0861 VACTEC (822 832)

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| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.

www.coschem.co.za

COSMETIC INGREDIENTS Ingredients include: African oils I Hyaluronic acid I Treated pigments I Treated inorganic sunscreens I Encapsulated organic sunscreens I Plant

Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and

and animal proteins and specialised protein derivatives I Brown

closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is

seaweed I Natural actives and rheology modifiers I Anti-dandruff

your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical &

agents I Concentrates

cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.

www.cosmetic-ingredients.co.za

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

FORMPAK

NOVOPAK

For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,

Novopak is a plastic packaging

packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical,

company that specializes in

cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

manufacturing a complete range

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

of cosmetic and pharmaceutical tubes, including printing, hot foiling and various caps. We also manufacture Bottles and Jars.

Tel +27 (0)11 865 5632 Email novopak@absamail.co.za www.novopak.co.za

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER

QUANTUM COLOURS SA

Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme

Your No. 1 industry leader

offers support to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social

for the most comprehensive

needs and well being.

ranges of both synthetic and

At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across

natural colours – used in food,

SA, cosmetics are used as tools

pharmaceutical, cosmetic and

to address visible side effects of

industrial applications.

treatment to assist patients to restore

Tablet coatings – manufactured,

self-esteem and face the world

supplied and marketed globally

with confidence.

under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.lgfb.co.za

www.quantumcolours.co.za

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