Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review August 2018

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

August 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 8

www.pharmacos.co.za

Chemical innovation

that creates a sustainable and prosperous world

GOOD HAIR DAYS All you need to care, cleanse, style and condition NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION ENTRANTS FEATURED IN THIS EDITION!

Cosmetics regulatory update & the keys to compliance First biosimilar approved for use in SA

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

Cosmetics regulatory conference

August 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 8

13

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Meet the 2018 entrants!

8 NEWS

Bragan Chemicals diversifies into personal care

Sustainability remains a core focus at Lubrizol

Cipla Medpro acquires Mirren

12 EVENTS

Register to attend Africa Home & Personal Care Markets

Cosmetics regulatory conference planned at NWU in 2019

16 REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING

CTFA assists industry with regulatory transition

Insight into requirements for safety assessments

Laboratory services for claim validation and substantiation

Natural alternative to synthetic surfactants

20

19 SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES

Carst & Walker shares the spirit of Ubuntu

Consider Kaneka Surfactin for eco-friendly formulations

Sourcing sustainable palm oil in Peninsular Malaysia

24 HAIR CARE

Get straight shiny locks with Fixate Keratin

How to solve sulphate-free formulation challenges

Find out about Wacker’s new green silicones

IMCD promotes a unique bond technology

Innovative and functional ingredients from Millchem

Advanced polymers from Dow for styling and shine

Protect and repair hair with SymHair Shine

SA’s first biosimilar oncology drug approved for use

36

36 PHARMA FOCUS: R&D

Cipla celebrates a biosimilar approval first for SA

38 COLOUR COSMETICS

Inclusive beauty and innovative ideas for lipsticks

New functional mineral for enhanced formulations

44

41 44 Coding & Marking

Enhance security codes with quantum dots

A closer look at Hitachi’s UX series

48 Flexible

Packaging

Packs that protect and preserve

49 ASSOCIATION NEWS

The latest news from Coschem and SAAFFI

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

3

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

Specialities, success and sophistication

S

outh Africa’s cosmetics and personal

drug approved for use in South Africa.

care industry is more sophisticated

Turn to page 36 now to read about how

than ever. Many suppliers say

Filgrastim Teva, manufactured in Europe

the strong focus on commodities

by Teva and distributed locally by Cipla,

from about six years ago has shifted

will help bring down the cost of cancer

predominantly to speciality ingredients.

treatment in the country.

Local brands and manufacturers continue

The one size fits all approach to beauty

to align their product offerings with global

is now outdated, which is why our colour

beauty trends by focusing on the latest, hot

cosmetics feature on page 38 focuses on

ingredients. So, sales of speciality ingredients

inclusive beauty. We share tips, ingredients

are making a substantial contribution, if not

and a tried and tested approach, which

more than commodities, to the supplier’s

is sure to set you on the right path to

bottom line. As a result, we’re seeing an

developing customisable beauty products.

increased focus on speciality ingredients with

If you’re looking to up your anti-

commercial benefits developed or tailored

counterfeiting and traceability game

for the South African market. Our bumper

throughout the supply chain, in this month’s

hair care feature on page 24 is evident of

Packaging Review, Aarifah Nosarka delves

how much the industry has transformed.

into coding and marking developments on

Interesting reads include the launch of a

page 44.

professional hair care product to reduce frizz

We welcome your news, views and editorial contributions, remember to keep in

anionic surfactants to overcome formulation

touch with us. There are many ways to get

challenges associated with sulphate-free

in touch with the P C Review team. You

shampoos, a unique bond technology

can connect with us on social media, by

that doesn’t interfere with the bleaching or

liking the @PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview

colouring process, new styling and shine

Facebook page or following @SApharmacos

enhancing polymers and an anti-pollution

on twitter or send an e-mail to abby.vorster@

active for healthy hair.

newmediapub.co.za to discuss your article suggestion or news.

industry. On page 20 in the sustainable practices feature, we look at what

Enjoy the read!

innovative ingredients have emerged as a

ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za

General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb

NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

Consultant, drbaileys.com

Dr Trevor Baillie

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

Contributor: Prof Beverley Summers

John Psillos

milestone with the first biosimilar oncology

4

Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

The pharma industry celebrates a major

CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za

Bridget McCarney

environmentally friendly formulations.

P C Review is the official journal of:

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

result of increased consumer demand for

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING TEAM

and improve manageability, innovative non-

Sustainability is also a top priority for the

THE TEAM

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices.

Printing and frosting facilities are available.

Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

It’s competition time!

Local and international cosmetics brands are going head to head in the 2018 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition. Entries closed at the end of June. We received 20 submissions of various ranges and individual products, which were judged on 2 August by our esteemed panel of judges.

T

he New Product Competition is now in its

been reformulated or repackaged with the aim of

11th year. Since its inception, P C Review and

improving on the original offering.

Symrise – the main sponsor of the competition – have been encouraging innovation in the

This year, P C Review welcomed MCC Labels on board as the sponsor of the packaging category.

cosmetics industry. The aim of the competition is to give

By working with MCC Labels, we hope to grow the

local and international brands, which are available on

packaging section of the competition, ultimately

the South African market, an opportunity to showcase

driving more brands to source their packaging and

their unique, new products or those that have either

labelling locally.

Save the date

The P C Review/ Symrise New Product Competition awards evening will take place on 11 October, in Illovo, Sandton.

INTRODUCING THE 2018 ENTRANTS

Dimanzi eau de parfum is produced in South Africa using essential oils sourced from Grasse, France. This fine fragrance brand is the brainchild of Di Thompson, who used her beauty industry experience to create a competitively priced perfume. A rainbow floral green fragrance with fresh and woody notes, Dimanzi eau de parfum captures the essence of the African spirit while staying aligned with epitome of French chic.

Avroy Shlain’s CRT range is said to be the first ever skin care range to combine powerful problemspecific anti-ageing technologies with Timetouch Innovation, to create the ultimate skin care experience. The CRT Age-Defying Night Cream, Anti-Pigmentation Day Cream SPF30, Anti-Wrinkle Plumping Day Cream SPF25 and Dynamic Hydration Day Cream SPF20 are positioned as multiethnic, making them suitable for all skin types.

6

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

Avon’s ANEW Reversalist Infinite Effects Night Treatment Cream is one of the first-ever rotational night cream formulations that continues to improve the signs of ageing month after month. The key to the night cream’s long-term efficacy is a proprietary rotational technology that combines two formulations – the first one is a Phyto+ complex for the prep phase and the second, a SuperRetinol complex for the treatment phase.

Three years since its New Product Competition win, Kalahari Lifestyle is back with two entries, an individual product and a range. Ultra Rich Skin Complex is an antioxidant-rich evening moisturiser compounded of highly proactive ingredients. These include vitamin C, marine botanicals from sea kelp, peptides and hyaluronic acid with anti-ageing and regenerating benefits. Kalahari Lifestyle has also entered its range of serums, which have been repackaged. The range includes an anti-puffiness eye serum, intensive night serum, instant lifting serum, phytoflora serum and a marula face oil.

Formulated with a blend of 100 percent natural, high performance ingredients, Cherish Beauty’s Cleansing Oil is designed to deep cleanse whilst balancing skin’s natural oil production. This product gently removes impurities without stripping the skin. The theory behind oil cleansing is ‘oil dissolves oil’. By using the correct combination of natural oils, pores can be cleansed of dirt and bacteria – naturally, gently and effectively.

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Schwarzkopf Professional, a Henkel brand, is pushing boundaries in hair care with its new detoxifying scalp care system and line of shampoos, serums and conditioner products formulated with natural oils. The BC Scalp Genesis range consists of a self-warming detox prep-treatment; purifying, root activating and anti-dandruff shampoos; and soothing, root activating and rebalancing serums. The Oil Ultime range includes light and normal oil-in-shampoo, oil-in-spray conditioner, oil-inconditioner and several finishing oils.

Quick Grow is an advanced amino hair care product range.

The products are scientifically formulated to supplement the body with a precise blend of amino acids, minerals and vitamins, training it to produce keratin faster. The result is proven accelerated hair growth.

The range includes an advanced amino shampoo and conditioner in two different pack sizes, a hair mask and nutritional supplements. Only the shampoo and conditioner products have been entered into the competition.

In a world flooded with information and choice, Skin Creamery exists to simplify skin care. This Cape Town-based South African brand was developed by skin care therapist, Hannah Rubin, who is committed to natural, simple living.

The Skin Creamery range consists of a lightweight moisturiser called The Everyday Cream, a Facial Hydrating Oil that contains a plethora of certified organic oils, an exfoliating Facial Cleansing Powder, the luxurious Oil-Milk Cleanser and the Two-Phase Skin Tonic, which contains a mineral-rich crystal extract derived from Malachite.

After entering the Zinplex Tattoo range into the 2017 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition, Zinplex’s R&D team used the judges’ thorough feedback constructively to reformulate the three products.

The new and improved Zinplex Tattoo range has been entered into this year’s competition as well as Zinplex Embrowdery, an exclusive professional aftercare treatment for permanent makeup and microblading procedures.

Oh So Heavenly’s new hypo-allergenic range is proven to be kind and gentle on dry, sensitive skin.

With moisturisers this gentle, skin will forget it’s sensitive. The range consists of three products: a hypo-allergenic emollient cream; hypo-allergenic emollient body lotion enriched with Glycerine; and a hypoallergenic, colourant-free emollient cream for babies and children.

The Boost range of skinboosting serums promise to enhance any skin care routine.

Boost serums are scientifically formulated, performance driven and address consumers’ primary antiageing concerns.

These serums are positioned to capture the growing market demand for performance driven yet affordable skin care products.

The range includes Calm, Glow, Clear, Energise, Quench and Smooth serums, all formulated with innovative delivery systems.

SKNlogic offers a cosmeceutical range of skin care products that promise real results. These products are formulated with the highest grade of quality ingredients to optimise skin health.

The SKNLogic gentle cleanse cream, SKNLogic hydrating serum and SKNLogic multi active lotion are the three individual products entered into the competition.

Fig extract, shea butter, lactic acid and hyaluronic acid are some of the key ingredients incorporated into these cutting-edge skin care products.

Optiphi, a professional skin care brand, has an expert understanding of the inner workings of the skin which allows its R&D team to create unique and highly effective skin care products with unparalleled results. Two of the newest offerings from Optiphi are the Classic Clarity Serum and Solar Spritz.

The Classic Clarity Serum is formulated with micro-encapsulated Salicylic Acid for time-controlled diffusion into the skin. The Solar Spritz SPF 30 is packaged in a practical, fully recyclable aluminium spritz bottle, promoting easy application and making it ideal for an active lifestyle.

ORS, a leader in the Ethnic hair care market, focuses on meeting the unmet needs of the health-conscious, multi-cultural consumer.

The brand has entered three of its latest innovations into the competition. These include the lightweight Olive Oil Wrap/Set Mousse, the ultra-nourishing crème on crème nolye hair relaxer kit for touch ups and Hair Mayonnaise, which combines a rich blend of botanical extracts, whole egg protein, olive oil and wheat germ oil.

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

7

NEWS

Alan Rahme and Musa Sabinda

BlanX White Shock Toothpaste launches in SA ACDOCO SOUTH

innovation harnesses natural light

AFRICA, a specialist

to fuel the whitening process. BlanX

consumer packaged

contains Actilux formula, which

goods distributor, has

is activated by sunlight to whiten

secured the exclusive

teeth. This product can be used

distribution rights for

in conjunction with an LED light

BlanX White Shock

designed exclusively to boost the

Toothpaste in South Africa.

effect of the Actilux formula. For an

In the last few years

even more intensive treatment and

there has been extensive

quicker whitening action one can

growth in premium

use the BlanX Treatment with the

whitening oral care

LED Bite device for up to four shades

products with the global

whiter teeth in just two weeks.

industry being valued at over

‘Blanx is a category value

BRAGAN BREAKS INTO PERSONAL CARE

US$6 billion. Coswell, brand

accelerator, offering consumers

AFTER A FIVE year sabbatical, Alan Rahme has

owner of the BlanX range

a new, gentle and very effective

made a comeback to the personal care industry

and Italian manufacturer

whitening solution. The response

as national sales director of Bragan Chemicals

of personal care products

and uptake in the South African

(Bragan). The company was started 10 years ago by

identified a gap in this

market thus far has exceeded

Craig and Julie Taylor and has made huge strides as

expectations,’ states Jason Frichol,

a premium ingredient and additive supplier, growing

MD of Acdoco SA.

significantly as a result of the quality of service and

growing segment for an oral care whitening product range formulated

BlanX White Shock Toothpaste

without harmful

is available at selected Clicks

ingredients. Its point of

stores nationwide.

products it offers at the right price.

Rolfes Group, a JSE listed company, acquired the Bragan brand in 2015, making Bragan a significant partner in the various industries it serves. Nathan Bevis was appointed MD of the company in 2017, bringing his extensive industry knowledge to the

ONLINE MARKETPLACE

business to ensure it reaches greater heights while

FOR SAFER CHEMICALS

Rahme will add value to the Bragan brand.

CHEMSEC’S E-MARKETING platform for sustainable chemistry – Marketplace – is growing. Only a year

attitude will assist Bragan in successfully re-entering

into the development cycle, the first 50 advertisements for safer chemical alternatives are now online.

the personal care industry. In April, he visited

Rahme experience in growing successful companies combined with his service-orientated

Stakeholders in the chemical industry recognise the Marketplace’s potential, including the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), the Swedish Government and Green Chemistry leaders in the USA. The business-to-business platform currently boasts everything from non-toxic water repellents for textiles to safe flame-retardants and alternative chrome plating.

in-cosmetics Global in Amsterdam to re-kindle relationships with various principles. ‘It was great to see many of my old friends who are keen to give Bragan the opportunity to market their products into

‘There is a large diversity of safer chemistry on the platform; something we know is in high demand by brands and retailers worldwide looking to substitute toxic chemicals in products and supply chains,’ says Jerker Ligthart, Marketplace project manager.

Africa,’ Rahme comments.

Bragan has had significant success in export markets, servicing all sub-Saharan African countries

Among the many companies that have advertised their sustainable products on Marketplace

as far north are Kenya and the DRC. This is made

are listed businesses such as Chemours, Clariant and Huntsman. Yet its not exclusive to large,

possible through its infrastructure in South Africa,

multinationals – there are opportunities for smaller companies too.

including its head office in Johannesburg and

‘It is very inspiring to see start-ups coming up with new solutions without hazardous chemicals.

Take the company Acticell for example – it developed the new bleaching technology LB3 for denim fabrics that makes hazardous chemicals like potassium permanganate redundant. Advertising on Marketplace is a great way for them to increase visibility and potentially attract new investments,’ Ligthart adds.

branches in Cape Town, Durban and Port Elizabeth.

Bragan also recently achieved ISO 9001:2015 accreditation and is BBBEE compliant.

It will be challenging to break into the market, but Rahme believes with his 18 years’ industry

ChemSec is also excited to announce a first partnership agreement with the non-profit

experience, he can achieve success for Bragan

GreenBlue, a parent organisation to CleanGredients. This is the definitive database of market-ready

in personal care. The company also recently

chemical ingredients pre-approved to meet US EPA’s Safer Choice standard. This cooperation will

appointed a personal care sales rep, Musa

allow CleanGredients’ users to market their products on Marketplace and increase the visibility of

Sabinda, who joined the team in July.

Marketplace

8

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

‘I am so excited to be back in the industry,’

and

Rahme exclaims. ‘All my business relationships with

CleanGredients

principles and customers were built on friendship

in both Europe

and I cherish these bonds, which make it feel like

and the US.

I’ve never left the industry.’

NEWS

Industry jolted by Amazon’s acquisition of PillPack THE PROSPECT OF

Merck, Novo Nordisk, Celgene, Bayer, Biogen,

the potential reinvigoration of protectionism. In North

Amazon entering the

Sanofi, Roche, Novartis, J&J and Eli Lilly recorded a

America, 10 players have indicated negative growth

pharma industry with the

negative market cap growth of over 10 percent in Q1

in their M Cap due to the genericisation of key drugs

acquisition of PillPack

2018. Key factors affecting market cap performance

and failure in clinical trials to achieve their desired

will be a troubling

included the inability to strike major new deals,

end points.

development for global

poor performance of struggling divisions, revenue

pharma executives. This

dependence on a small number of drugs, collapsed

makes GlobalData’s review of the

sales of top drugs and the loss of patent exclusivity.

performance highlights of the Top 25 publicly traded global pharma companies well-timed.

The data and analytics company tracked the market

CSL’s market cap grew by around 10 percent

The quarter also witnessed a flurry of M&A negotiations and transactions, including:

based on strong results in 2017. Vertex sustained its

• T akeda’s proposed US$64 billion acquisition of Shire

impressive growth by gaining 22nd position at the end

•G SK’s US$13 billion agreement to buy Novartis’ stake

cap performance of the Top 25 pharma companies for

of Q1 2018 driven by positive results from its clinical

the quarter ending 31 March, 2018 compared to 2017

studies of a breakthrough drug for the treatment of

revealing a number of interesting insights.

cystic fibrosis.

Based on market cap, the top 25 players list in 2017

Asia Pacific headquartered companies’ market cap aggregate recorded a positive growth in Q1 2018.

in its consumer-health joint venture •M erck’s US$4.2 billion intended divestiture of its overthe-counter unit to P&G

Looking at geographical data, the aggregated

remained unchanged in Q1 2018 however there were

market cap of North American and European

some positional movements. J&J maintained its top

companies fell 6.9 and 12.8 respectively in Q1

position in the quarter with Abbott and BMS entering the

2018. All top players in Europe registered a negative

top 10, ousting Sanofi and Bayer.

growth due to risks posed by Brexit and panic over

• S anofi’s planned divestiture of its European genericdrug business to Advent International Corp •N ovartis’ US$8.7 billion acquisition agreement with AveXis • S anofi’s planned acquisition of Ablynx for €3.9 billion.

Lubrizol maintains its sustainability commitments EVERY DAY MORE people take environmental awareness and their carbon footprint

to safeguard the welfare of the environment and people by setting out innovative,

into account. As a result Lubrizol is totally committed to conserving our planet.

challenging and progressive criteria for organic and natural cosmetics, which

The company is actively reducing CO2 emissions with its Noverite LD 920N ingredient, which provides high natural content and significantly reduces environmental impact

consumers can trust and are good for the environment.

Lubrizol’s botanicals meet the National Organic Program (NOP) standard. NOP is a

when used to make finished laundry detergent. On average, Lubrizol’s home care

regulatory programme, housed within the USDA Agricultural Marketing Service which

customers use significantly less water, 17 percent less energy and reduce their CO2

assures consumers products with the USDA organic seal meet consistent, uniform

emissions by about 1 000t per year when manufacturing with Noverite LD 920N. The

standards. This certificate is widely recognised and has the same validity as COSMOS

company’s unique chemistry enables its customers to improve these key environmental

out of the US.

performance indicators by delivering superior dispersion, even in cold water processing.

Lubrizol also provides transparency into the amount and origin of renewable

Lubrizol Skin Essentials also offers a lot of Halal certified ingredients. Produced, packaged and distributed according to Islamic rules, these products are believed to

materials in its ingredients, and only works with suppliers that do business ethically

be beneficial and healthy for humans, promoting improved quality of life and reducing

and responsibly.

health risks.

Lubrizol’s concern for the environment is reflected in its product portfolio, where

The Certificate of Compliance for Cosmetics GMP granted to Lipotec Active

technology and efficacy are as important as sustainability. The certifications linked to

Ingredients confirms the company’s good practices for its manufacturing, packing,

its products guarantee this.

labelling, control and storage activities.

Various ingredients from Lubrizol Skin Essentials have been assessed and validated

Ultimately, Lubrizol and Lipotec care about safety and the environment in the same

compliant with the COSMOS standard, obtaining the Attestation of Conformity for

way they care about the health of skin. Lubrizol is represented locally by Carst & Walker

raw materials according to COSMOS. The COSMOS standard’s ultimate objective is

while Savannah Fine Chemicals is the agent for Lipotec.

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

9

NEWS

CIPLA GROWS NATIONAL FOOTPRINT WITH MIRREN ACQUISITION

NEW SURVEY FROM PRC AND NIELSEN TO PROVIDE DATA ON 5 000 BRANDS

Malcolm Blane, CFO of Mirren, with Paul Miller and Lynton Lomas

NIELSEN WILL RELEASE consumer panel data this month fused with 2017 PAMS data. This is an enhanced survey that will provide industry with rich information on 200 consumer goods categories and more than 5 000 brands.

The study is funded by the Publisher Research Council (PRC) and provides manufacturers, media agencies and publishers with real consumption CIPLA MEDPRO SOUTH Africa (Cipla Medpro), wholly owned subsidiary

behaviour, based on over 17 000 PAMS respondent interviews and 4 000 CPS households visited every two to four weeks throughout the year.

of Cipla Limited, India (Cipla), has announced plans to acquire a Terry M urphy

Nielsen Watch MD, Terry Murphy

100 percent stake in Mirren. Mirren is a local manufacturer and distributor of over-the-counter (OTC) pharma products and has been in operation for 35 years.

says: ‘PAMS is the core hub of the study, which we will overlay with top line CPS data that stems from 20 years of robust, credible and

Cipla Medpro is South Africa’s fourth largest pharmaceutical company in the private sector.

trusted measurement providing verified consumption. This will create a full picture of readership, lifestyle and shopping behaviours

The transaction is subject to the approval by the Competition Commission of South Africa.

amongst South African consumers together with their product consumption, based on two independent data sources.’

Actual scanned data is collected in households at least once a

Paul Miller, CEO of Cipla South Africa, said that once approved, the transaction will enhance Cipla’s current OTC portfolio, by adding Mirren’s well-established brands such as Broncol cough syrup, Coryx,

month, resulting in a total of 48 000 household visits a year and

Tensopyn and Ultimag. This deal will also increase Cipla’s local

the measurement of 200 000 shopping occasions. It will also

manufacturing footprint.

provide penetration of categories including personal and home care

Lynton Lomas, director of Mirren, said: ‘The acquisition by Cipla will

and food and beverages, as well as usage, in terms of frequency

help ensure the continued growth achieved by Mirren brands over the

and volumes. A new metric will be the breakdown of heavy,

past three years will be sustained. The wellbeing of Mirren’s dedicated

medium, light and non-buyers across the country and for existing

staff was one of the biggest deciding factors during this process.’

demographic profiles including LSMs and SEMs. PRC head, Peter Langschmidt adds, ‘The newly fused PRC PAMS

Miller adds: ‘We foresee this transaction will aid Cipla greatly in future by improving the range of quality medication we are able to offer South

and Nielsen CPS data is an exciting innovation in South Africa’s

Africans. Cipla aims to take full leverage of this proposed transaction to

consumer and media landscape. It will be available on all industry

deliver on its ethos of “Caring for Life”, by providing quality, affordable

media planning software platforms in early August.’

medical products.’

ISPE Foundation to support pharma industry training and research THE INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY for Pharmaceutical Engineering (ISPE) has launched a philanthropic arm, the ISPE Foundation. This new entity will enhance the society’s ability to support members and the pharma industry in preparation to address new and evolving industry demands.

‘The pharmaceutical industry continues to create new and innovative medicines that improve and extend patients’ lives. These advancements also create new demands and opportunities for our industry. By establishing the ISPE Foundation, ISPE becomes better positioned to effectively embrace those opportunities and support our members,’ says Michael Arnold, chair, ISPE Foundation.

The foundation will seek funding to support a dynamic range of new missionrelated initiatives. Initially, these will include building the workforce of the future, empowering women and increasing diversity, and global knowledge exchange.

Through the ISPE travel grant programme, which will attract, support, educate

and networking for women and ethnically diverse people, these initiatives will drive the successful career progression of under-represented groups within the pharmaceutical industry.

Translation of ISPE’s highly regarded industry guides is another focus of the foundation, to make this valuable content available to the growing global workforce

and train talented young people entering the industry, students and young

through Emerging Markets Knowledge Exchange. In addition, the training of global

professionals will receive financial support to further their professional development

regulators in industry best practices will be sponsored by the Global Training and

and contribute to building the industry’s future workforce.

Harmonisation Fund.

The ISPE Foundation will support the society’s existing Women in Pharma programme. Providing professional training and education and fostering mentorship

10

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

To learn more about the ISPE Foundation or to make a tax deductible donation, visit www.ISPE.org/Initiatives Foundation.

2018

September

DIARY 2018

ood f

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

SOUTH AFRICAN

Professional Beauty JHB 2 to 3 September Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand, Gauteng www.probeauty.co.za/jhb

RE V IE W

WHAT'S ON IN

2018 SUBSCRIPTION FORM

Coschem Scientific Conference: Beauty in HD

Please complete in block letters, select your subscription option, and return this form, along with your payment to:

5 to 6 September Bytes Conference Centre, Midrand, Gauteng www.coschem.co.za

NEW MEDIA PUBLISHING (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel +27 21 701 1566. Fax 086 529 6468.

IFSCC 2018 Congress

SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS (please tick) 1 YEAR

2 YEAR

18 to 21 September The Dolce Munich, Germany www.ifscc2018.com

Food Review Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review

R791

Food Review + Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review

AMA Golf Day 19 September Glendower Golf Club, Johannesburg www.aerosol.co.za

Africa Home and Personal Care Markets 26 to 27 September JHB venue TBC www.bit.ly/2GaAUHI

R514

R514 R931

R791 R1416

Full Name:...........................................................................................

Designation: ........................................................................................

Company: ...........................................................................................

Postal Address:................................................................................... .................................................................Code:.................................

Country: ..............................................................................................

Tel: (

October Luxe Pack Monaco 2018

1 to 3 October Grimaldi Forum, Monaco www.luxepack.com/en

CPhI Worldwide

Main activity of company:...................................................................

Approximate number of employees: ..................................................

VAT No: ............................................................................................... ❑ I would like to receive the newsletters and feature announcements via email and may be added to the mailing lists.

Signature:............................................................................................

Please select your preferred method of payment:

❑

Bank:

Acc No:

New Media Publishing (Pty) Ltd .

Nedbank Seapoint

1069321540

Branch Code: 10-69-09-00

❑

Credit Card (Mastercard & Visa only) Name of card: .............................................................................

Expiry Date: ................................................................................

Card Number: .............................................................................

November 13 to 16 November Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre www.cosmoprof-asia.com/en-us

Direct Deposit (Fax this form together with a copy of your deposit slip to: +27 086 529 6468 Payee:

11 October Ferguson's 5th floor www.pharmacos.co.za

Cosmoprof Asia

) ..................................

E-mail:.................................................................................................

9 to 11 October IFEMA, Feria de Madrid, Spain www.cphi.com

P&C Review/ Symrise New Product Competition Awards

)....................................... Fax: (

CVC Number...............................................................................

Date: ...........................................................................................

Signature:....................................................................................

❑

TAX INVOICE REQUIRED Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only.

International rates available on request.

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

11

EVENTS

Learn to formulate

for Africa’s new consumers CMT’s Africa Home and Personal Care Markets summit, taking place on 26 and 27 September, aims to discuss the opportunities in the lucrative home and personal care industries and will draw major decision makers.

T

he Centre for Management Technology (CMT), a global conference organiser in Singapore, is hosting the Africa

Home and Personal Care Markets summit at the Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel Sandton in Johannesburg.

The two day summit will focus on Africa’s fast emerging beauty, personal and home care segments.

It will address the region’s diverse hair

The rising middle class in South Africa, Nigeria, Ethiopia and Kenya is expected to boost the demand for cosmetics, hair and home care products

care demands, formulation trends, the growth potential of laundry detergents,

Specialty Chemicals in a session entitled ‘Green and Natural Ingredients Trends in Africa’s Skin Care Formulation’.

Botanica Natural Products will share information on the ‘Production and Supply of African Ingredients to African Personal Care Markets in subSaharan Africa’.

Euromonitor International’s ‘Regional Overview of the sub-Saharan Africa Beauty and Personal Care Sectors’ is also included in the seminar.

Production and consumption of laundry

raw material innovations and brand

detergents is another key focus with East

Network and exhibit

owners’ expectations.

African Lion Brands Industries highlighting

The event is a key platform for Africa’s

Sub-Saharan Africa is one of fastest

Ethiopia’s home and personal care market

home and personal industry, including

growing economies in the world with

prospects, in a presentation on the demand

manufacturers, raw materials producers

about 821 million consumers, making it a

and supply projection and the rise of

and suppliers, retailers, brand owners,

ready market for personal and home care

powder detergent versus laundry soap, as

consultants, providers of supply

products. East Africa alone is home to

well as the raw materials supply chain.

chain solutions, packaging designers

over 350 million people, where consumer

PZ Cussons Nigeria will share a detailed

spending is expected to multiply in the next

account on formulating home and personal

few years. A growing population and rising

care products for Nigeria’s consumers.

middle class in countries like South Africa,

Packaging design trends to fit African

and producers, formulators and contract manufacturers.

You can also promote organisation to influential players and investors in the

Nigeria, Ethiopia and Kenya are expected to

consumers and packaging demand in

industry. Send an e-mail to fiona@cmtsp.

boost the demand for cosmetics, hair and

the digital age will be reviewed by Unilever

com.sg for more information on sponsorship

home care products.

South Africa while Dabur South Africa will

packages or to book your exhibition space.

present a paper on ‘Changing Formulation

For more information, visit https://bit.

Major players share knowledge

Trends in Private Labels Cosmetics and

ly/2JPXozM, the Africa Home and Personal

The summit offers an ideal platform to

Personal Care’.

Care Markets website or send an e-mail to

discuss the trends in Africa’s rising beauty,

The current regulatory environment in

personal and home care markets. There will

South African personal care and cosmetics

be a special focus on addressing the diverse

industry is shifting from

hair care demands, including afro, curly and

self regulation to full

natural hair.

regulation. Event supporter,

Experts from leading suppliers, brand

the Cosmetic, Toiletry &

owners and manufacturers, with operations

Fragrance Association of

in Africa, will present at the summit.

South Africa, will shed light

L’Oréal South Africa will present a session on ‘the Crown of African Women: Addressing

on the proposed regulations.

The increasing awareness

Diverse Hair needs in sub-Saharan

of natural cosmetics and

Africa’, highlighting the various hairstyle

skin care products will be

requirements of consumers on the continent.

presented by Vantage

12

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

grace@cmtsp.com.sg. •

NWU to host international

EVENTS

cosmetics regulatory conference The inaugural international conference on Cosmetic Product Safety and Compliance takes place on 6 and 7 March 2019 at NWU Sports Village and Conference Centre in Potchefstroom, South Africa.

T

he aim of the conference is to establish solutions for cosmetics and personal care brand owners, manufacturers and regulators

to align and comply with international

of the regulations, cosmetic GMP and

regulatory standards.

relating manufacturing standards and

According to the North West University (NWU), the main idea is to educate and

cosmetics claims will be addressed.

Talks by Zoran Gavric and Herman van

• Zoran Gavric (TRC Europe, The Netherlands) • Herman van Zonneveld (TRC Europe, The Netherlands).

inform delegates about international

Zonneveld from TRC Europe will centre on how

legislation and guidelines, as well as the

to move forward harmoniously. South African

To encourage compliance

documentation and product information

regulatory experts will also discuss the current

The NWU’s goal is to offer a much required

required to export a cosmetics product to EU

local legislation. Raw materials suppliers

regulatory discussion platform for industry

member states. The event will also facilitate

and product owners/manufacturers and

stakeholders, to network and work

discussions around the current South

regulatory professionals shouldn’t miss out on

together to advance their companies and

African cosmetics product regulatory status,

this informative session.

build their export capacity. Ultimately, this

problematic areas, the possible solutions and how to align with SA legislation.

The second sub-theme will question how to demonstrate the safety and compliance of cosmetics products. Discussions

This two day event is planned to assist local industry stakeholders on their journey toward compliance This two day event, organised by the

will help put South African brands on the global map.

It is also the organiser’s vision to build

will include: the structure and

and align research capabilities with that

minimum contents of the

of international role players, to connect,

cosmetics product information

uplift and bring industry partners together

file (or PIF); the essential dossier

to form an integral alliance that drives the

documents and data; which tests

South African cosmetics industry forward.

reports are required and what

As a result, all other industry partners are

information they should provide.

invited to either contribute as a speaker or

General cosmetics

register as a delegate to attend.

product safety assessments and principles will also be

Secure your spot

highlighted. This session will

For more information on the cost to attend

include the safety assessment in practise

the International Conference on Cosmetic

NWU, is planned to assist local industry

and important practicalities you would not

Product Safety and Compliance, to provide

stakeholders on their journey toward

find in the guidelines as well as the role and

sponsorship or pitch your presentation

regulatory compliance. The conference is

responsibilities of a safety assessor.

idea to speak at the event, please send an

endorsed by the Department of Trade and Industry and CECOSA.

An informative programme The conference will be spilt into two

There will be talks product stability, expiry date or period after opening, stability testing approaches, analytical and clinical testing and which evaluation makes sense.

The following international keynote

e-mail to anina.vanderwalt@nwu.ac.za or monica.young@nwu.ac.za.

Registration closes on 8 February 2019.

The cost of the conference includes all teas and lunches and is required to cover the

sub-themes. The first will explore the

speakers are confirmed:

conference facility venue hire fee. Speakers

cosmetics regulations and whether local

• Prof Vera Rogiers (chair, SCCS, VUB

presenting at the conference will receive

brands and manufacturers correspond

toxicology, Belgium)

with these guidelines. General principles

• Prof Mary Gulumian (TOXSA chair)

of regulating cosmetics, global

• Diana Khazaka (director, Courage &

standards, how to deal with annexes

Khazaka, Germany)

complimentary attendance. •

North West University – www.nwu.ac.za

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

13

COMPANY FOCUS

Shaping the world through

chemical innovation Protea Chemicals has stepped up its strategy by adjusting its market offerings for maximum customer value. Abby Vorster looks at the latest developments within the company and its realigned consumer care division.

P

rotea Chemicals (Protea) has for many

office in Ghana

years been perceived as a supplier of

and has recently

commodity products only. Yet its offerings

secured new business in

add value for customers at every stage

Côte d’Ivoire.

of the value chain. Its products enable the ‘world of things’ and in the pharmaceutical, personal

Improved specialities basket

care and home care industries, without Protea’s

The sales of speciality chemicals contributed

support, many of the cosmetics, hair and skin

42 percent to Protea’s revenue in 2017 and

care, healthcare and household products

45 percent for the year ended March 2018. As

consumers use wouldn’t exist.

a result of their higher margins and growing

The company also supplies products and

contribution to the company’s financial success,

solutions to the food and beverage, water

Protea has improved its basket of offerings by

treatment, paints and inks, plastics, rubber,

securing new distribution partnerships with

petroleum and lubrication, packaging and

several leading international principals.

paper, and animal feed markets.

Stella Lanolines

By applying intellectual capital and technologies to all key points along its supply

Back-integrated into the wool industry, Stella

and service chains, Protea differentiates

Lanolines offers a wide range of high purity

itself from the competition. This winning

lanolin products and derivatives

focus enables the company to create value, both up and down the supply chain, by tailoring its products and services to the specific and changing needs of its customers.

The company forms part of the Omnia Group and is responsible for the group’s main chemicals business. The group

specifically designed for the pharma

DID YOU KNOW?

and cosmetics industries, for skin, personal, baby and body care

Protea Chemicals has launched a new corporate video, highlighting its realigned brand message and the significant role the company plays in improving consumers’ lives.

Visit https://bit.ly/2mwNIRB to watch it now.

recently appointed Funani Mojono as MD of Protea, marking a major transformation

applications, as well as antiageing and anti-wrinkle lotions and products for skin disorder solutions. The company operates from an environmentally friendly state of the art refining plant based in Belgium.

Lanolin is a natural, organic, renewable raw material that originates from

first for the business and chemicals industry as

the natural secretion of the sebaceous glands of

a whole.

sheep and has a long history of traditional use for

There have also been a number of internal improvements at Protea, including securing new

its skin treating properties.

Protea distributes cosmetic, USP and EP grades

principal agencies and boosting its import and

of anhydrous lanolin from Stella Lanolines, as

handling capacity. The company has expanded

well as USP and pesticide-free grades of lanolin

its I&I facilities with a liquids blending plant, which

oil, lanolin wax, ethoxylated lanolin (PEG-30

it plans to grow beyond liquids to meet the needs

and PEG-75), cosmetic and EP grades of

of multinational customers. Protea will continue

lanolin alcohol and IPL.

to outsource innovation to an independent applications laboratory until this capability is

Agrana Starch

brought in house.

For brand owners

Its African growth strategy is well on track with

14

and manufacturers

key developments in the eastern and western

looking for

regions. Protea is in the process of opening up an

alternatives

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

COMPANY FOCUS

to silicones, nylons and micro-

argan, avocado, baobab, chia, rapeseed,

plastics, Agrana Starch offers a

pomegranate and soy bean oils, cocoa

range of starches for cosmetics

and shea butters, and bees wax.

and body care applications. These starches can be sourced locally from Protea. They are sustainable and

Lincoln Manufacturing Based in Lincoln, USA, Lincoln

organically degradable, making them

Manufacturing produces multifunctional

an ideal natural alternative to chemical

antimicrobials, preservatives, specialty

aesthetic modifiers.

actives and plant based surfactants.

Agrana Starch offers modified and native

These ingredients include the

rice, corn and tapioca starches, which

Linatural, Lintelligence, Lincoserve and

can be used in emulsions, decorative

Lincocide ranges.

cosmetics, talc and powders, dry and

The Linatural Ultra line of all natural

liquid shampoos and conditioners, as well

ingredients is designed to bring

as deodorants.

multifunctional benefits, such as emolliency

Instead of the classic dry shampoo

and moisturisation, to personal care

powder spray, Agrana Starch launched

formulations at any pH. In addition to

a dry shampoo mousse formulation in an

their functionality, Linatural Ultra products

aerosol format at in-cosmetics Global 2018.

protect formulations from microbial

The company used its aerosol grade rice

contamination. Linatural MBS products

starch, which contributes to good foam

are Ethylhexylglycerin and/or Potassium

stability, excellent hair cleansing with a

Sorbate or Benzoic Acid blends for an

conditioning effect and eliminates the

ultra mild, alternative approach to

need to blow dry.

conventional preservatives.

Henry Lamotte Oils

blocking systems have great water

This leading supplier of oils, fats, waxes and

solubility for high water content and low

related specialities is based in Germany

pH formulations. They are perfect for clear

and has been in operation for more than

baby shampoos, facial cleansers, wipes,

90 years. Henry Lamotte Oils’ products are

sensitive skin products and body washes.

used in the food, cosmetics, pharma and

Linatural MBS-1 in baby shampoo had a

veterinary industries.

HET-CAM (eye irritation potential) score of

These naturally derived microbial

The company has in-house production facilities ranging from pressing to

0.25 compared to an industry standard baby shampoo, which scored 1.75.

bottling, it offers complete traceability and documentation and

A strong and sustainable brand

all products are subject

Delivering products and services is not the

to internal and external

only focus of Protea. ‘Creating a better

analyses. The company can

world’ has become both an immediate

also produce customer-

and long term prospect for the company

specific formulas and recipes. Some of the products on offer from Henry Lamotte Oils are aloe vera,

PROTEA CHEMICALS

BY NUMBERS

and Omnia Group in general. Sustainability and reduced environmental impact have become a primary area of investment for Omnia with the recent acquisition of Oro Agri (March). Oro Agri produces the patented AgriBio products of bio-

• originated in the • more than

early 1970s

800 employees

• around

18 000 transactions

per month

130 distribution vehicles

• delivering products in varying pack sizes from bulk to small • more than

50 000m2

warehouse capacity with room to grow

level 3 BEE contributor

•

ISO 9001, ISO 14 000, OHSAS 18 000

•

and SQAS accredited.

2017, which now forms part of the chemicals business within Protea.

Umongo is based in KwaZulu-Natal Umongo and a leading distributor of additives, base oils and other related petroleum, oil and lubricant products in South Africa and sub-Saharan Africa. The addition of a bulk volume base oil, additive and lubricant business to Protea has already broadened the company’s product offering and creates new opportunities to grow the business locally and beyond the South African border.

With its strong global growth strategy, focus on value creation, improved basket of speciality chemicals, active industry participation and strengthened brand message, Protea continues to prove it really is ‘more than just a chemical supplier’. •

pesticides, bio-stimulants and bio-fertilizers.

These are all eco-friendly alternatives for crop protection, enhancement and nutrition which eliminate the use traditional chemicals.

Omnia also acquired 90 percent of Umongo Petroleum (Umongo) in December

Omnia – www.omnia.co.za Protea Chemicals – www.proteachemicals.co.za

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

15

REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING

Towards a more regulated cosmetics industry

data on any animal testing performed by the manufacturer, his agents or suppliers,

After 24 years of self-regulation, with the majority of companies in the cosmetics industry following the CTFA Compendium, legislation is now on the cards governed by the DoH.

O

relating to the development or safety assessment of the cosmetics products or its ingredients.

Post-marketing surveillance is required in the event of undesirable and serious undesirable events and a process must be in place to handle these.

n 19 August 2016, the

it’s important the industry is aware of the

Department of Health (DoH)

timelines it will be afforded to comply with

of such regulation is dependent on the

draft regulations relating to

the regulations. The CTFA and industry

current compliance of each company,’

the Advertising, Labelling and

working group have proposed a transitional

Pimentel adds. ‘The industry is an overall

Composition of Cosmetics were published

period of at least two to three years for total

compliant and ethical one and has always

in the Government Notice No. 40216.

compliance to ensure business continuity,

been a proponent of strict considerations

especially for the small and medium

for consumer safety, which the regulations

sized companies.

further accentuate.’

To ensure the comments submitted to DoH were a true reflection of what the industry needs to survive and thrive within

‘The impact on the cosmetics industry

Most companies use the CTFA

a legislative environment, the Cosmetic

Compendium and available standards

A powerful voice

Toiletry & Fragrance Association (CTFA)

as the premise for compliance so the

Because the South African cosmetics

worked together with a dedicated group of

transition from self-regulation to regulation

industry is dynamic, continuous

member companies to collate comments

should be ‘business as usual’, yet the

engagement with DoH is crucial to ensure

of the draft regulations. Many of these

additional areas of compliance are likely to

the regulations and required updates are

comments were adopted by DoH and

have an impact.

looked at timeously and don’t hinder the

published in a re-draft of the regulations

future success of the industry. Pimentel says

on 22 December 2017, in Government

Additional obligations

the CTFA will continue to lobby and interact

Notice R1469.

Once the regulations are promulgated, a

with DoH to ensure continuity.

The transition from selfregulation to regulation should be ‘business as usual’, yet additional areas of compliance are likely to have an impact

Responsible Person, safety assessments,

‘The re-draft mirrored the needs of the

80 percent of cosmetics companies in

post-marketing surveillance will become

South Africa. The CTFA and its members

additional legal obligations for brand

welcome the proposal of these regulations.

owners and manufacturers.

They are seen as a positive step towards

The Responsible Person is defined as ‘a

regulatory system for cosmetics and the

importer or distributor) responsible for

continued development of safe, innovative

making the product available on the

and efficacious products.

market’. The Responsible Person must

host a public workshop. The date for this

product made available on the market, as

event still needs to be confirmed. •

per the provision in the regulation.

The cosmetics product must have undergone a safety assessment of the finished product and its ingredients.

The cosmetic safety assessment must be carried out by an

manner,’ says Adelia Pimentel, CTFA’s

person’. Pimentel

executive director. ‘However, some areas

says a toxicologist

of concern were still evident and further

is not required at

comments were submitted in March 2018 in

this stage.

A detailed PIF with specific

compliance period is stipulated as

contents will

immediate. This is included in the specified

be required.

commencement procedures provided in

This document will

the proposed regulation. Pimentel says

need to include any

16

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

Before promulgation occurs, the DoH will

ensure compliance of the cosmetics

‘appropriately trained

One of the areas of concern is that

international compatibility of the local

natural or juristic person (manufacturer,

cosmetics industry in a more manageable

response to the redraft.’

The association represents over

the Product Information File (PIF) and

CTFA – www.ctfa.co.za

REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING

safe for use?

Are your products

The safety assessment is an essential requirement of the EU and most other globally relevant cosmetics regulations. The Regulatory Company has extensive expertise in conducting safety assessments for the EU and other international markets.

A

mandatory part of the product

During the assessment, the assessor

dossier, the safety assessment

must consider the following:

report must be made available

• the general toxicological profile of the

to authorities in the country of

sale for inspection on their request.

The assessment must be conducted by a ‘competent or qualified safety assessor’, which is a qualified expert holding at least a university degree in toxicology or equivalent health studies. A copy of the

single ingredients used • their chemical structure, reactivity and interaction with other ingredients

The following data is required as minimum input for an appropriate safety assessment: • ingredients information, including technical

• their purity and presence of potentially hazardous contaminants or additives • the level of exposure under reasonably foreseeable conditions of use.

data sheets, safety data sheets and certificates of analysis for each ingredient • toxicological profile of individual substances • product specifications

assessor’s qualifications must also be included in the dossier and/or mentioned

A legal obligation

in the safety report.

The safety assessor and the responsible

The report for a cosmetics product must

NECESSARY DATA

• microbiological quality and stability

person are both legally liable for the

be prepared according to the requirements

health effects of the cosmetics product

defined in the cosmetic regulations and

under their responsibility. It is important

their respective guidelines (e.g. in EU it

to ensure the data used for the safety

is Annex I of the Reg. 1223/2009 and the

assessment is reliable, detailed and of a

corresponding Guideline).

good quality.

• impurities, traces and information on packaging material • use description (for reasonably foreseeable use).

Based on the assessment, the

To ensure the high level of data quality

assessor then creates the report, which

required for the safety assessment,

should be included in the product

there are different detailed instructions,

dossier. If the outcome of the safety

checklists and tools that can be used.

assessment raises any health concerns

Once the input data-set is complete, the

or additional questions, the assessor

safety assessor performs the assessment

should inform the manufacturer and

and calculates the exposure (exposure

propose possible solutions. These

tools: ConsExpo, RiskOfDerm and SCCS

include pursuing additional data from

notes) and the margins of safety based

suppliers, performing additional tests,

on toxicological thresholds for individual

formulation changes and the adaption

substances. These can be retrieved from

of labels and/or claims. •

acknowledged databases or publications such as CIR, ToxLine, ToxRefDB, ATSDR, ESIS, IPCS-INCHEM, PubMed and SCCS opinions.

The Regulatory Company – www.theregulatorycompany.com

Actively making a change Supplier of Actives and Technical Services to the Cosmetic Industry Our Services include: Supplier for:

• Stability Testing • Formulation • Quality assurance • Dossier presentation for most markets in the world • Full cosmetic regulatory services

CONTACT Robyn Brown Tel +27 (0)11 425 2206 | Fax +27 (0)86 520 4585 | Cell +27 (0)814476236 / +27 (0)815456857 info@botanichem.co.za | www.botanichem.co.za Botanichem 1/4.indd 1

2018/07/26 15:57

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

17

REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING

How do the draft regulations

affect your product claims?

Section 9(1) of the draft regulations for the South African Cosmetics, Foodstuffs and Disinfectant Act contains proposals for product claims.

Prof Beverley Summers looks at the likely impact and how the Photobiology Laboratory can assist with compliance.

T

he draft regulations state (in sub-

available in South Africa. Most studies are

section b) ‘claims in respect of the

conducted under existing protocols, but

labelling, weighing, pre-packing into

effects and quality of the cosmetic

the laboratory will design purpose-built

smaller containers and application

are prohibited, unless scientifically

studies and apply for individual protocols, if

substantiated’ and (c) ‘the words

required.

“clinically proven” are prohibited, unless

• handling of products (randomisation,

checks) where appropriate • study sundries (e.g. batteries, gloves,

Existing protocols include tests for:

scientifically substantiated’. Unless claims

• SPF in vivo and UVA in vitro

can be supported by product content and

• irritancy patch

documented references to that content,

• moisturiser efficacy (including anti- wrinkle)

the product must undergo clinical tests,

• pigmentation

which support the marketing claims.

•a nti-dandruff and other hair product tests

Although the Photobiology Laboratory

moisturisers, soaps, shampoos, towels and applicators) • study administration and assessment time, taking study samples, labelling and packaging • photography, sorting and labelling

• anti-acne

images, and provision of CD records

at the School of Pharmacy was first

• pseudofolliculitis

• adverse event reporting

established specifically to provide

• ophthalmic irritancy.

local industry with a reliable option for

Close liaison with clients is essential for

Sun Protection Factor (SPF) tests, it has

reliable and robust data generation. Studies

expanded to provide reliable, affordable

vary in cost, which depends on the sample

local testing of cosmetics products. This

size, study duration, number and frequency

• a detailed written report.

includes a wide range of clinical and

of assessments required. The construction of

Ultimately, claim substantiation is a crucial

instrumental tests for cosmetics product

a study includes attention to a wide range

part of ensuring product performance,

safety and efficacy claim substantiation.

of aspects, such as:

safety and consumer satisfaction. •

(where necessary) • data collection, entry, proof-reading, graphical representation and statistical analysis

• liaison with the client (which is critical)

Scientific and advanced

• protocol development or adaptation and

The laboratory is versatile in its offerings.

tailoring of individual study paperwork,

Work is conducted for entities, which

plus printing

range from local one-person companies

• panellist recruitment, briefing, completion

to most major multinationals. Every study is

of forms, screening panellists, screening

important – regardless of company size. The

completed forms for compliance with

laboratory has a wide range of equipment

inclusion and exclusion criteria and

– some of which is the only example

payment of panellists

ABOUT Prof Beverley Summers (B Pharm, MSc(Med), PhD) is a registered pharmacist in South Africa and the UK. She heads up the Photobiology Laboratory at Sefako Makgatho Health Science University (previously MEDUNSA, now SMU).

M&L LABORATORY SERVICES Pharmaceutical and Healthcare testing

ISO 17025 accredited

M&L Laboratory services provides clients with an extensive array of analytical capabilities.

Endorsed by the World Health organisation (WHO)

Services: • Stability storage • Disinfecting efficacy • Post importation testing • Full pharmacopeia testing • Dissolution • Method development • Microbiological analysis

Tel: +27 11 661 7914/7900/7931 | Mob: +27 81 399 9737 | Email: peter.moopeloa@za.bureauveritas.com

18

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

Medicines Control council (MCC)

SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES

Invested in helping staff help others There is a strong and measurable connection between CSR programmes and employee engagement.

Carst & Walker knows this from its ongoing CSR initiatives, which have improved its bottom line during tough economic times.

By Abby Vorster

C

arst & Walker is authentic in its efforts

programme the “299”, as those who are taking

to improve society. The company’s

part in both the Johannesburg and Cape

corporate social responsibility (CSR)

Town events will essentially cycle 299km for a

programme started many years ago,

purpose far greater than their own personal

but really gained momentum three years ago, leverage the existing strengths of its employees all

A greater reward

over the world.

Refilwe Community Project and Boucher House are

A global business with offices in east and

the main beneficiaries of the Hobart Enterprises

west Africa, Australia and South Africa, Carst &

Charity Trust. Apart from the cycle challenge

Walker forms part of holding company, Hobart

fundraising efforts, Carst & Walker also hosts golf

Enterprises. The Hobart Enterprises Charity

days and makes regular material or financial

Trust is an employee driven initiative that aims

donations in support of these charities.

to integrate the concept of charity in a

‘Last year, we placed a teacher’s assistant

meaningful and personal way. It caters

at Refilwe and continue to fund her

to the physical and emotional needs of Hobart Enterprises and Carst & Walker employees, by empowering them to help others less fortunate than themselves.

Mark Hele from Hobart Enterprises explains: ‘The fund supports a variety of affiliated charities and encourages the efforts of employees who are

DID YOU KNOW? Nelson Mandela International Day

income. We also provided Refilwe with the services of a videographer to document and create content

that could be used to market the 2018 marked 100 years since the birth of Mandela on 18 July 1918. The Centenary charity project,’ Hele comments. provided an occasion to follow his call to ‘Through the Trust, Hobart ‘make the world a better place’. The Nelson Mandela Foundation dedicated this year’s Enterprises purchased a new Mandela Day to Action Against Poverty, home for Boucher House earlier honouring Mandela’s devotion to fight poverty and promote this year and we help them with social justice for all. ongoing funding.’

passionate about fundraising. The cycle challenge has given us a great platform to bring

Education is a primary focal point at Refilwe Community Project

goals,’ he adds.

using the 947 Cycle Challenge as a platform to

Carst & Walker has charity golf days taking place on 20 September in Johannesburg

Hobart Enterprises’ employees together from all

at Eagle Canyon Golf & Lifestyle Estate and on

over the world, get them onto bikes and create a

27 September at the Rondebosch Golf Club in

spirit of giving.’

Cape Town. Suppliers and customers are invited to

This year, the CSR focus has grown beyond

take part in these events by booking a four ball to

the 947 Cycle Challenge to include the Double

become part of the company’s movement to ‘be

Century road cycling race, which takes place

change they want to see in the world’.

in Cape Town. ‘Staff have tagged our 2018 CSR

Apart from making a sustainable contribution to uplifting communities and individuals less fortunate than themselves, employees of Carst & Walker and Hobart Enterprises gain significant value from their efforts. ‘There is nothing more rewarding than seeing the personal pride in employees who are driven to help people in need,’ says Hele, ‘this is in addition to the fellowship that develops around golf days, cycle challenges and other charity events which is noteworthy from an HR point of view. Our employees live these values as an active part of the business and it’s proven to continually make a positive contribution to our bottom line.’ •

Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Hobart Enterprises Charity Trust – www.hobartenterprisescharitytrust.com

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

19

SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES

Natural alternative to synthetic surfactants

Kaneka Corporation’s pioneering product, Kaneka Surfactin is an anionic biosurfactant with promising benefits for personal care applications.

Its high biodegradability helps manufacturers meet consumer demand for environmentally friendly formulations developed using natural ingredients.

C

Powerful emulsifier In a technical paper entitled Unique Properties of Biosurfactant Kaneka Surfactin and its Potential Applications, Chencan Ouyang, Satohiro Yanagisawa and Takuto Nagano of Kaneka Corporation’s new business development division, discussed the structure of Surfactin and its technical and formulation capabilities.

hanges in consumer preferences

Its structure is unique compared to other

have an impact on the personal care

surfactants. Kaneka Surfactin has a heptapeptide

industry and drive innovation among

head group interlinked with a ß-hydroxy fatty acid.

ingredient manufacturers. One of the

Due to its unique cyclic peptide structure, Surfactin

biggest consumer movements is the trend towards environmentally friendly products formulated with simple, natural ingredients derived from renewable resources. On the manufacturing

shows excellent surface and self-assembling properties. It exhibits a dominantly low critical micelle concentration (CMC) value of 0.0003 wt percent.

When used as a co-surfactant, Surfactin also

side, cold process and biodegradable

dramatically reduces the CMCs of some other

ingredients are more in demand than ever.

typically used surfactants such as liner alkylbenzene

Kaneka Surfactin (INCI: Sodium Surfactin) ticks all of these boxes. This biosurfactant is

sulfonate or LAS and sodium dodecyl sulphate or SDS.

produced in Japan by natural fermentation

Its uniqueness and technical capabilities make

of a harmless microorganism, Bacillus subtilis.

Surfactin ideal for creating D-phase emulsions using

This sustainable product is commercially available in South Africa from Acacia

a cold process with low mechanical force. D-phase is the emulsification technique used to produce fine

Specialty Chemicals.

O/W emulsions, which are extremely stable and have

Surfactin is proven to be much milder than other

a large percentage of oil. Despite the high oil load,

typical surfactants and in a biodegradation test it

they remain thin and smooth with an average oil

biodegraded almost completely within a week.

droplet size of one micron.

D-phase emulsions, because of their capability to incorporate both water and oil, are gaining ground

Figure 1: Primary skin irritation test results

in the personal care industry. Yet this formulation process can be limiting because it’s complicated

Primary Irritation Index (P.I.I.)

8 6

and requires substantial use of specific non-ionic

Anionic Emulsifiers

2.5% 5.0% 10% 20%

surfactants, resulting in a heavy skin feel. Kaneka’s

6.84

6.17

premixed oil gel (POG) provides a solution to the existing problem. The newly developed POG is a bicontinuous phase system formed using glycerine, oil and a very small amount of Surfactin. Compared to a

4.83

D-phase emulsion developed with around 10 percent non-ionic surfactants in the final formulation, POG allows for a minimal inclusion level of Surfactin at

4

around 0.5 to one percent. The key to this low dosage is its ability to form hydrogen bonds between its

1.58

2

peptide hydrophilic moieties.

While it simplifies the D-phase formulation process,

0.29

0

POG serves as a stable base for emulsion with a minute particle size of one micron. This permits

KANEKA Surfactin

Sodium lauroyl Glutamate

SDS

a high percentage of oil in the formulation while keeping the viscosity low to give a unique light touch on skin while maintaining high moisturising properties. For example, in a milky lotion formulation

20

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES containing 20 percent oil, POG is included at

surfactant. Figure 1 shows the primary skin irritation test

around 12 percent, so the final concentration of surfactant is merely 0.2 percent. An innovative premix such as POG, not only lowers the difficulty of D-phase formulation but also makes the process of fine particle emulsification easier than ever.

Irritation reduction This desire for mild products is not only

results of Kaneka Surfactin compare to SDS and sodium

DID YOU KNOW?

lauroyl glutamate. Usually considered mild, sodium lauroyl glutamate is often used in facial cleansers yet the irritation level of Sufactin is

Kaneka Surfactin is safe, has an anti-inflammatory effect and is a 100 percent green ingredient certified

by Ecocert and the COSMOS standard.

limited to baby care but also spans skin

significantly lower than this surfactant and SDS. At below 2.5 wt percent, no skin irritation was observed for Kaneka Surfactin.

Kaneka Surfactin also helps to reduce irritation

caused by other surfactants.

and hair care. This is a result of the increased

This was proven using a 3D skin

awareness of synthetic chemicals in cosmetics

model to measure cell survival rate

and toiletries and their perceived negative

after being treated with a surfactant

effects on the environment and human health.

solution. While a 0.3 wt percent

This trend is propelling natural ingredients into

Alkyl Ether Sulfate solution caused

a new and innovative space, making them

the death of a third of the skin cells,

a far more favourable option for consumer

introducing 0.1 to one wt percent of

desirable products.

Surfactin into the system decreased

Sensitive skin claims are also on the rise as

cytotoxicity. The result shows that despite

a result of overexposure to harsh chemicals

being an anionic surfactant, Kaneka Surfactin is

and environmental aggressors. Subsequently,

comparable to, if not better than, non-ionic surfactants

ingredients like Kaneka Surfactin, which is proven

when it comes to skin irritation. •

to prevent skin irritation or mitigate it entirely, have become more favourable to formulators.

Despite its high surface activity and strong

Acacia Speciality Chemicals – www.acaciachem.com Kaneka Corporation – www.kaneka.co.jp/en

emulsifying ability, Surfactin is an extremely mild

Peptide ring consists of 7 amino acids

The Power of D-Phase KANEKA Surfactin is your solution to create D-phase emulsions, a bi continuous phase that incorporates both oil and water, using a very small dosage. The D-phase Kaneka Surfactin can be used to formulate makeup remover, an emulsion with highly refined oil droplets and many other skincare products. *D-phase refers to the phase that consists of surfactin, polyol.

Suitable applications: • Make-up remover • Skin care • Sun care • Baby care • Micellar water • Wet wipes • Hand sanitisers

Contact: T. 011 965 1508 | C. 0794085651 Email: clive@acaciachem.com

Acacia/Kaneka.indd 1

2018/07/26 09:01

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

21

SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES

The world’s

most sustainable palm oil

A company established in Peninsular Malaysia and a member of the RSPO, ExcelVite is committed to upholding the codes of conduct of the palm oil industry. Customers can rest assured the production process of all ExcelVite’s products do not harm the environment.

ExcelVite’s continuous

T

efforts to uphold

oil produced in Peninsular Malaysia

sustainable practices. It

as growers in the region observe

also shows the company’s

sustainable plantation practices.

ORANGUTAN FRIENDLY THIS LOGO REPRESENTS

commitment to protect the environment and Malaysia’s precious wildlife. ExcelVite is dedicated to providing the best wildlife friendly palm oil based products to its customers.

here are three primary palm oil

supply chain for palm oil. It focuses on promoting

producing regions in the world –

the growth and use of sustainable palm oil

Peninsular Malaysia, Borneo and

products through credible global standards and

Indonesia. According to ExcelVite,

stakeholder engagement.

there is no sustainability issue with palm

The company’s red palm oil or dietary supplements made with ExcelVite’s phytonutrient extracts from virgin crude palm oil sourced within Peninsular Malaysia do not come from trees grown on new plantations

Operating an integrated plant to

DID YOU KNOW?

commercially extract and produce constituents of palm oil through its

Palm oil has been instrumental in helping alleviate poverty in Malaysia and is the backbone of the country’s economic and social development. Over the past five years, it has contributed over €6.3 billion to the Malaysian economy.

or plantations that have resulted in deforestation, which are more prevalent in

proprietary technology, ExcelVite’s products include palm vitamin E, palm carotene as well as palm methyl ester and crude glycerine, which are used to manufacture dietary supplements, pharmaceutical and oleo-chemical and bio-diesel products.

RSPO has developed a set of environmental and social criteria, which

Borneo and Indonesia. Represented in South

companies must comply with in order to produce

Africa by Enna Industrial Ingredients, ExcelVite

Certified Sustainable Palm Oil. When the criteria

assures customers the land it cultivates is legally

are applied properly, they can help minimise

designated agricultural land.

the negative impact of palm oil cultivation on the environment and communities in palm oil

Making sustainable the norm

producing regions.

The Roundtable on Sustainable

worldwide which represent all links along the

Palm Oil (RSPO) is a non-profit

palm oil supply chain. They have committed to

association created by organisations

produce, source and/or use sustainable palm oil

and companies carrying out their

certified by the RSPO. •

The RSPO has more than 3 000 members

activities in and around the entire The Malaysian palm oil industry provides direct employment to more than 500 000 people

22

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

Enna Industrial Ingredients – www.ennaii.co.za ExcelVite – www.excelvite.com

At H&R we pride ourselves on being a truly sustainable company that focuses on waste reduction by transforming residues typically produced in the traditional oil refinery into new high purity products, thereby bringing appealing solutions to the markets we serve. We work closely with customers to offer customized solutions suitable for their needs.

We are further working to extend our traditional mineral based product range also with synthetic and “green� options to ensure we offer customers the solution required.

H&R is a proud major global supplier of top quality petroleum jelly, an essential ingredient used in the personal care, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.

H&R offers both white and yellow product variations of petroleum jelly to these industries.

H&R offers a variety of bases for the production of cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsion and ointments. H&R also offers a wide range of technical and medicinal white oils and waxes to suit a wide area of application.

Contact us to find out how our products can fit your application.

113 Trindad Road, Island View, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +27 (0)31 466 8700, Fax: +27 (0)31 466 8716 E-mail: SASales@hur.com

www.hur.com

HAIR CARE

Transform hair from within

Even on a busy day, consumers want to look great and be camera ready. With less time to spend on beauty routines, consumers are looking for innovative ways to achieve and maintain beautiful hair.

L

ubrizol conducted a global study on 1 000 women, aged between 18

Blank

Non encapsulated active

Encapsulated active

and 64, with slight to medium curly hair. The study revealed 61 percent

of women like frizz-free products, 59 percent need to moisturise dry hair, 50 percent want to restore overall hair health and 43 percent desire to prevent split ends. Other concerns mentioned were manageability improvement, shine, heat protection, volume and anti-ageing.

Flat irons and straightening techniques

Figure 1

can damage hair’s outer layer and internal

two-component technology (Fixate Keratin

structure over time. Ultimately, this damage

Activator and Fixate Keratin Re-constructor).

will cause dullness and hair breakage.

The technology reconstructs hair from

In addition to having the same

within, enabling long term manageability

preferences as consumers with slight

and enhancing hair’s smoothness, frizz

to medium curly hair, consumers

control, softness and shine.

with excessively curly hair seek curl

The penetration of the unique ingredients

manageability and the reduction of

deep into the cortex is reinforced by

damage caused by chemicals and heat.

a patented/exclusive encapsulation

Natural hair is a major trend this year

technology (NPET – novel penetration

with more consumers embracing their

and encapsulation technology)

natural hair styles or incorporating low

inspired by skin care delivery and

maintenance solutions into their everyday

encapsulation mechanisms.

routine. With chemical-free hair care, the

NPET is based on coacervated lipidic

desire for healthy hair and new methods

nanocapsules. This delivery system was

of achieving straight hairstyles, traditional

designed by Lipotec and has been

relaxers are rendered unnecessary for many

proven to convey the high penetration

textured hair consumers.

of encapsulated actives into the hair cortex and to promote good hair

A professional solution

cuticle deposition.

than 10 washes. The best straightening performance was observed on wavy or slightly curly hair. For curlier hair, a Fixate Keratin treatment brings manageability and frizz control.

Complementary in vitro evaluations of the cuticle and cortex with scanning electronic microscopy and a hair tensile tester show Fixate Keratin does not significantly affect the hair structure.

Fixate Keratin is the #lastingshot your hair needs to look perfect. For complete application instructions, formulation details and sample requests, send an e-mail to Fixatekeratin@lubrizol.com or visit Go.Lubrizol.com/FixateKeratin. •

Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za

FOUR STEPS

for hair care professionals which improves

to examine the system’s efficacy and

TO BEAUTIFUL HAIR

manageability and reduces frizz without

prove the active ingredients are actually

FOR A FULL salon experience, Fixate Keratin

damaging the hair. Fixate Keratin is a

penetrating the cortex. Capsules containing

can be integrated into of a four step routine that

semi-finished product intended to speed

two different fluorophores were prepared to

includes a pre and post treatment shampoo

up trendsetting launches in hair salons.

visualise the structure of the delivery system

and conditioner.

The South African agent for Lubrizol is Carst

and the location of the active, with the help

1. L ow pH activating shampoo – this

& Walker.

of a confocal microscope. The results show

With Fixate Keratin, Lubrizol offers a solution

Fixate Keratin is a thermal activated non-formaldehyde and non-glyoxylic acid

Lubrizol conducted fluorescence tests

a high level of fluorescence is detected for NPET inside the cortex (see Figure 1).

revolutionary low pH system unlocks keratin to prepare and protect the hair cuticle.

2. F ixate Keratin Activator and Fixate Keratin Reconstructor FF transform hair into a smooth,

Safe and efficient Using non-formaldehyde and non-glyoxylic acid chemistry, the low odour and low

cleanses and moisturises hair. It also

fume profile of Fixate Keratin make it a

improves wet combing, feel and detangling

safer alternative when compared to other products on the market.

The technology has been validated

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

after treatment.

4. Luxurious Restorative Moisturising Conditioner nourishes hair after shampoo

by salon tests on different hair types of

and enhances hair alignment. It leaves hair

more than 60 models. The results show

soft, easy to detangle, moisturised and shiny.

the effects of Fixate Keratin last for more

24

silky, shiny and de-frizzed style.

3. Hydra Replenishing Moisturising Shampoo

HAIR CARE

Your sulphate-free formulation challenges solved

S

ulphate-free cleansing products

free formulating. Akypo Foam LM25 (INCI:

Akypo Foam LM25 reduces the irritation

are a major talking point in the

Potassium Laureth-4 Carboxylate) from Kao

potential and improves the foam quality

personal care industry. In the hair

Chemicals (Kao) delivers all the properties

of a formulation. Its viscosity behaviour is

care category, there is no lack of

required for high performance sulphate-

similar to SLES and can easily be improved

products with sulphate-free claims, even

free cleansing products with the additional

with salt.

though they are difficult to formulate.

benefit of proven mildness.

Sulphate-free formulations are costlier.

Akypo Foam LM25 is ideal for products specially formulated to be mild and non-

It’s challenging to achieve good foam

Gentle on skin

irritating, such as baby care products or

consistency with most sulphate-free anionic

Kao, represented in South Africa by CIM

those for sensitive skin. The results of a

surfactants on the market, so formulators

Chemicals, designed this product to

Zein test on a range of surfactants classed

generally combine three or four surfactants

achieve luxurious foam with micro-sized

Akypo Foam LM25 as ‘non-irritant’ while SLS

to achieve superior foam volume, which

bubbles and high foam consistency.

was rated ‘irritant II’ and SLES ‘moderately

increases formulation costs. They also have

When used as a secondary surfactant,

irritant’. Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB)

to compromise on performance when

and Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate

developing these systems.

(CADA) were also classed as ‘non-

With conventional sulphate-free anionic surfactants, a rheology modifier is needed

irritant’. Yet Akypo Foam LM25 was ranked significantly less than CAPB and CADA. •

to improve formulation viscosity, further impacting costs.

The good news is, there is a new anionic surfactant on the market which solves all the challenges associated with sulphate-

CIM – www.cim.co.za Kao Chemicals – www.chemical.kao.com

Choose AKYPO surfactants for mild cleansing and sulphate-free shampoo formulations!

The benefits are endless: • vegetable derived fatty alcohols • proven mildness to skin and eyes • good eco-toxicity properties • excellent compatibility with all kinds of surfactants • high foaming properties • boosting effect on the performance of polymers/conditioning agents.

Brad: 060 583 5324 www.cim.co.za

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

25

HAIR CARE

Eco-friendly silicone fluids Wacker’s new Belsil eco products have the same properties as silicone fluids made with petroleumderived raw materials, yet their carbon balance is more favourable. There are six silicone fluids in this range.

B

favourable than petroleumbased silicone fluids.

Wacker uses both petroleum-derived methanol and biomethanol. A certified

elsil eco products are

conventional silicone fluids with their

mass balance

linear, unmodified

corresponding Belsil eco products.

procedure helps

polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), distinguished

‘The demand for cosmetics made from eco-friendly raw materials

the share of products

by their low surface tension and

continues to rise,’ says Dr Robert

good spreading properties. These

Gnann, president of Wacker

products cover a crucial viscosity

Silicones. ‘With our new

range in cosmetics between five and

product line, we are in an

60 000 centistokes (mm2/s). They

excellent position to meet

are suitable for use in shampoos,

this demand. For Belsil

conditioners, moisturising creams, lotions

eco, we use certified bio-

and sunscreens.

methanol produced from

For every Belsil eco product, a silicone fluid, based on petroleum-derived

plant residue such as straw

calculate and determine sourced from bio-methanol.

DID YOU KNOW?

As a result, Wacker can ensure all Belsil eco products are manufactured from 100 percent plant-based

According to Wacker’s calculations, every metric ton of bio-based silicone fluid saves around 1.6 metric tons of carbon dioxide.

or grass cuttings.’

methanol, also exists. Both products

resources, making them resource saving raw materials. The procedure is certified according to the TÜV SÜD Standard CMS

71 and checked annually by

have the same raw material base from a

Certified sustainable

chemistry perspective which eliminates

Bio-methanol is made from renewable

the need for technical modifications or

raw materials, so the carbon balance

formulation adjustments when replacing

of Belsil eco products is more

external evaluators. •

Wacker – www.wacker.com

CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS

A CLEAN LOOK AND PURE CARE: TRANSPARENCY IN HAIR COSMETICS

Consumers demand pure products, presented in a pure way, and the hallmark of pure care is transparency.

BELSIL® silicone solutions give shampoo special effects that provide hair with a natural healthy shine.

Strong conditioners lend hair a light appearance while multi-effect sprays make hair care easier, providing superior combability and faster drying. Enriched with an anti-frizz oil for a strong anti-frizz action, hair regains a soft touch. A heat-protection mist allows high-temperature styling and completes the hair-care line.

For more information, visit www.wacker.com/transparency

26

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

Your official distributor in South Africa

GRANREPAIR POWERBOND GRANREPAIR POWERBOND its an innovative next generation bond technology. · Prevents damage and repairs hair integrity from chemical salon processes · Protects the bonds from initial breakage as well as repairs broken bonds · Noticeably softens and smooths hair texture · Adds shine and luster to hair appearance · Ease of combing ability (both for wet and dry) · Improved hair color intensity www.grantinc.com

HAIR CARE

Protect the bonds Granrepair PowerBond is a unique bond technology. It was developed by Grant Industries to protect and repair hair without interfering with the chemical process of bleaching or colouring.

T

he structural integrity

keratin (7.6 and 2.9 percent respectively). The increased

of hair is provided

composition of cysteine residues in hair potentially leads

and maintained by

to a higher amount of disulphide linkages. Inter- and intra-

its specific chemical

molecular disulphide bonds are formed by the covalent

composition. Hair is primarily composed of proteins, lipids

linkage of two sulfhydryl residues of two amino acids.

Lipids in the internal part of the hair provide structural

and water. Human hair is made

reinforcement and rigidity. Water is another major component

up of 65 to 95 percent protein,

of hair, up to 32 percent by weight. Water supports the

which determines its texture – be

formation of strong hydrogen bonds with proteins, influencing

it curly, wavy, kinky or straight.

Keratin proteins in hair are

the tensile strength, swelling, flexibility and shape of hair, as well as the formation of salt bridges.

complex natural compounds that contribute to its physiochemical properties. Human hair keratin is unique because of its high cysteine residue content when compared to skin

Innovative silicone polymer There is a need for a product designed to improve hair’s integrity during bleaching and colouring.1 These chemical processes affect the hair’s physical, mechanical and surface properties, resulting in it being typically dry, frizzy, difficult to style and easily broken.

During chemical treatments, most of the hydrophobic lipids are stripped from the hair’s surface. Because hair lacks regenerative properties, it is important to introduce a bond technology during bleaching and colouring which enhances and maintains hair’s structural integrity.

Granrepair PowerBond is a microemulsion (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Bis-PCA Dimethicone (and) Disodium PEG-12 Dimethicone Sulfosuccinate (and) Aminomethyl Propanol). It was designed with distinctive properties to reinforce protein bonds and restore hair fibre integrity without interfering with the bleaching or colouring

HAIRFLUX

®

treatment. Its active component is Bis-PCA dimethicone.

This is a bis-functionalised silicone polymer with Pyrrolidone

The extraordinary hair and scalp care revolution

Carboxylic Acid (PCA).

Grant Industries’ products are available locally from IMCD

We have designed the best in class active for the care of both hair and scalp. With the masterful combination of the well-known strength of Ceramides and the power of olives we created Hairflux® – bio-inspired, multifunctional and highly effective.

• Reduces the inflammatory capacity • Improves the appearance of sensitive scalp • Repairs damages of bleached hair • Increases resistance of straightened hair

South Africa.

Harmonious technology Hair bleaching permanently decolours hair by oxidising melanin in the cortex of the hair. The bleaching process is often highly alkaline (pH nine to 13), resulting in the dramatic degradation of hair’s structural integrity over repeated cycles.2,3 Granrepair PowerBond has been formulated to provide aqueous compatibility with bleaching and colour systems to ensure the efficacy of these treatments. The Bis-PCA dimethicone is amphiphilic by design and formed into a

Evonik Africa (Pty) Ltd t +27 11 697 0700 IBG Business Park, Midrand, South Africa

microemulsion to ensure targeted interactions with the www.evonik.com

hair shafts.

The pH of the material was developed to be highly compatible with bleaching and colouring mixtures (pH 9.0

28

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

HAIR CARE

to 9.5). This is important for an efficient

a healthier look and feel. Balanced

continuously brushed for 2 000 strokes

release of oxygen from the bleaching

moisturisation and hydrophobicity result in

with periodic counting of broken fibres.

mixture and for improved colour intensity

the improved conditioning of hair.

The quantity of hair breakage was similar

from creams dyes. Granrepair PowerBond

to the virgin hair without any post-

was found not to interfere with the

Proven results

treatment conditioners. Evidence showed

bleaching process and evidence shows

Grant Industries’ product evaluation

Granrepair PowerBond is able to preserve

it provides enhanced colour intensity

lab performed extensive ‘extreme

and protect hair fibre integrity and

and substantivity.

condition’ efficacy studies on

restore surface lubrication lost through

Grandrepair PowerBond. The studies

multiple cycles of bleaching, resulting in

and ionic bonds. Both bonds are key to

ranged from hair bleaching and anti-

reduced breakage. •

support the internal and external structure

breakage after grooming to scanning

of keratin protein. The PCA group forms

electron microscopy to assess hair’s

REFERENCES:

hydrogen bonds with hair and water,

surface integrity and evidence of the

1. Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. Hair Cosmetics: An Overview. Int. J.

making it advantageous because hair

penetration of the bond technology (see

needs water to remain moisturised for

Table 1).

The PCA reconstructs powerful hydrogen

The extreme condition hair bleaching Table 1

study considered hair stylists usually deal

2

6.5

from Granrepair PowerBond treatments

Granrepair PowerBond

5

2.5

were far superior to the control and other

Granrepair PowerBond

10

1.5

competitive products.

Brand #1

5

N.S.*

Brand #2

5

N.S.*

Granrepair PowerBond

virgin. Despite this, hair quality results

For the anti-breakage after grooming test, all experiments were performed after overnight equilibration of the

Penetration of Granrepair PowerBond confirmed

by Drave’s Wetting Test method on cotton skein (N.S.*- no sinking)

Process. US 3816614A, August 5, 1971.

3. Edman, W. W.; Sullivan, A. T. Hydrogen Peroxide Hair Bleaching Composition and Method. US 3193464A, May 31, 1961.

with hair that is pre-damaged and not

% (wt.)

Time (minutes)

Product

Trichology 2015, 7 (1), 2–15.

2. Zeffren, E.; Knohl, R. Hair Bleaching Compositions and

hair at 60 percent relative humidity at ambient conditions. The tresses were

*This article is based on a technical paper entitled, Protective performance of a functionalised dimethicone during chemical processes by Ronald Lerum and Anna Croom from Grant Industries.

Grant Industries – www.grantinc.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup. com/worldwide/south-africa

Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz

Sensetek.indd 1

2017/03/02 11:50 AM

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

29

HAIR CARE

Ingredients

for healthy hair and scalp G With the rise in multi-step hair care, consumers are encouraged to adapt their hair routines according to individual needs and appearancerelated goals.

For formulators looking to develop more sophisticated products for hair care, Millchem has a variety of solutions ideal for natural colour protection and sulphate-free shampoos.

By Abby Vorster

30

lobalData predicts the hair care industry

to controlling melanin synthesis. Research shows it

in Africa and the Middle East to grow by

boosts the markers essential to protecting natural hair

3.9 percent between 2016 and 2021. The

colour, demonstrated by in vitro and ex vivo studies.

fastest growing categories are shampoo

followed by conditioner and hair colourants.

The key drivers influencing hair care

In vivo and ex vivo results According to Ashland, in the anagen hair follicle,

developments are customisation, smart technology

melanin synthesis exclusively takes place in mature

and more eco-friendly products and systems. New

melanocytes located in the hair bulb. This process

offerings finding their way into consumers’ hair care

occurs within unique lysosome-related organelles

regimes include pre-shampoos, serums and pre-

called melanosomes. Melanin is then transferred to

style and after-style products.

the keratinocytes of hair cortex (PAR-2). To evaluate

A hair care regimen may even include products

pigmentation markers in vitro, Ashland used cultures

that address challenges, such as greying hair, at

of normal human epidermal melanocytes and

follicle level.

normal human keratinocytes. Chromafend was

Hair that is rich and vibrant in natural colour is

applied once a day at one percent for 48 hours.

considered a symbol of youth and beauty. Yet it can

The results were evaluated using immunofluorescent

become dull and grey as a result of stress, ageing and

staining. The evaluated markers appeared in green

exposure to external aggressors such as pollution.

fluorescence; cell nuclei are stained in blue by

Consumers generally colour their hair with temporary

DAPI. The images were quantified using Image-Pro

or permanent synthetic dyes to cover greying and

Analyzer software. Tyrosinase levels were significantly

improve natural colour, yet this often results in drier hair

higher in the cells treated with Chromafend.

that requires enhanced conditioning.

Therefore, Chromafend is associated with an

Ashland has developed a holistic solution to counteract the problem with its BiotHAIRapy biofunctional line of active ingredients. Chromafend

increased expression of all the protein markers such as TRP-1, MITF, Pmel17 and c-Kit in vitro.

Tyrosinase expression was also tested ex vivo

biofunctional, a flax seed extract, is designed to

using scalp biopsies. The scalp biopsy treated

conserve melanin in the hair follicle, preserving its

with one percent Chromafend showed a higher

natural colour. It targets specific protein markers key

level of tyrosinase expression, which is associated

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

HAIR CARE

category’ close on three years ago,

formulating sulphate-free systems.

this continues to be one of the most

Stepan-Mild LSB is a versatile anionic

searched terms on BeautySouthAfrica.

surfactant blend, which can be used in

com. Because consumers want healthy

a variety of personal care applications.

looking hair, their purchasing

DID YOU KNOW?

with melanin production in

is influenced by two main trends: developments in skin care and the

Hair health and maintenance are green/natural trend. key hair care claims for consumers These trends manifest aged over 55. ‘White Hot Hair’ is in the extension and positioned to address the changing needs of ageing consumers with segmentation of hair products that embrace hair’s ageing care routines and process by strengthening and through increased brightening white and grey hair. Source: news.ininterest in ingredient

the hair bulb. The results also

cosmetics.com

showed increased melanin content

labelling, sparking the development of more clean label

This mild surfactant blend has good foam quality and viscosity building characteristics and is ideal for use for gentle cleansing products for children and babies, as well as sulphate-free cleansing products and shampoos for adults. Secondary surfactants such as Stepan-Mild LSB not only play a significant role in enhancing foam and the mildness of a shampoo, but also help protect and retain colour vibrancy in colour treated hair.

Stepan-Mild LSB can be used as a mild

in the cortex of the hair follicle treated

products. As a result, sulphate-free

primary or secondary surfactant. It is

with one percent Chromafend compared

claims have become highly evident in

less irritating than lauryl and lauryl ether

to the placebo, ex vivo.

the local hair care market.

sulphates, builds high viscosity easily with

The BiotHAIRapy biofunctional line of

Anionic surfactants (particularly

active ingredients are available in South

sulphates) are the main ingredients in

Africa from Millchem.

shampoos responsible for colour fading and are perceived by consumers as a

Sulphate-free systems Although sulphate-free shampoos were ‘the next big thing in the hair care

source of skin or scalp irritation.

Stepan, also a Millchem principle, offers a series of solutions for

amides and salts, and provides excellent foam stability. •

Ashland – www.ashland.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za Stepan – www.stepan.com

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

31

HAIR CARE

Advanced

polymer portfolio for styling and shine

Acudyne hair styling polymers from The Dow Chemical Company provide outstanding hold and excellent humidity resistance. These polymers are available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals and recommended for aerosols and pump sprays, as well as gels, mousses, styling gels and styling aids such as pomades, waxes, putties, lotions and creams.

I

f you’re looking to formulate enhanced

formulation goals (see Table 1). This

hair sprays that deliver all day hold,

portfolio promises to deliver on tailored

excellent humidity resistance and other

formulation needs. Each hair styling

important consumer benefits, look no

polymer offers a specialised benefit.

further than Dow’s affordable, go-to hair

They can be blended to bring together

styling polymers.

the benefits of the various resins into one

Acudyne 1000 and Acudyne 180 can

powerful solution.

be combined in various blend ratios and use-levels to provide tailored performance for your specific needs. This versatility helps achieve a wide range of hold levels and consumer benefits, including excellent aesthetics, humidity resistance, shine and durable hold, while retaining a natural feel.

Compared to a leading aerosol hair spray, a 2:1 blend of Acudyne 1000 with Acudyne 180 delivers best in class aesthetics, excellent feel and superior humidity resistance – all at an

Dow has extensive data to demonstrate the performance of Acudyne SCP in hair gel

affordable cost.

There are additional Acudyne products, which can be used to meet specific

Hair fixative technology

THE BENEFITS OF ACUDYNE SHINE • provides outstanding shine • imparts strong styling hold • resists humidity for long-lasting hold • adds shine to hair without flaking effect • offers high relative humidity resistance • reduced absorption into hair during drying • excellent shine performance in aerosols.

a PVP-based commercial gel. Hair styled with the Acudyne SCP gel was also less sticky than with the PVP-based commercial gel.

Electron microscope pictures illustrate a simple hair gel with Acudyne SCP provides the smoothest coating to the hair shaft when compared to a PVP-based gel and an equivalent performance versus a

Acudyne SCP is a unique polymer

polyquat-based commercial gel. There was

that delivers a firm hold while leaving

no flaking and no detraction from shine.

hair feeling smooth and natural. This

Acudyne SCP Gel was rated better than a

polymer technology consists of a linear

commercial styling gel for:

anionic terpolymer of acrylamide,

• ease of spreading and styling

acrylamidomethyl propanesulfonic acid

• product consistency

(sodium salt) and methacrylic acid.

• wet feel

This novel anionic polymer is supplied as

• ease of combing

a pre-neutralised aqueous solution, is water

• lower coating/residue

soluble and easy to formulate into liquids,

• tackiness

mousses or gels without the need for further

• shine on hair

neutralisation. It enables a conditioned hair feel and superior humidity resistance without flaking.

• flaking • stiffness of film • body and manageability

Dow has extensive data to

• volume and fullness

demonstrate the performance

• overall appearance.

of Acudyne SCP in hair gel.

32

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

Salon tests show the fixative

Dual phase technology

polymer delivers superior wet feel

In hair styling products, there is a constant

and ease of combing versus

trade off between strong hold and all day

HAIR CARE Table 1

Trade name

INCI

Key performance benefits

Acudyne 1000

Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer

Unique dual phase technology enhances film properties to help deliver a unique combination of strong holding power and durability

Acudyne 180

Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer

Style retention with a more natural feel and ease of combing

Acudyne DHR

Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer

Dual phase technology to help deliver highly flexible hold and impart inherent shine

Acudyne LT-120

Acrylates/C1-2 Succinates/ Hydroxyacrylates Copolymer

Extremely high hold with a stiff, inflexible feel

Acudyne Shine

Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer

The highest level of shine offered in the Acudyne portfolio

Dow’s portfolio of Acudyne hair styling polymers

delivers a strong hold and all day flexible

hydroxyethylmethacrylate, and various

style because of its unique dual phase

acrylate esters. It is manufactured as an

polymer design.

emulsion in water. Upon neutralisation, it

Acudyne DHR offers the following advantages: • fi rm hold with flexible feel •e xcellent holding power for all day long styling

dissolves into water or water/alcohol to a form a clear solution.

Acudyne DHR improves the durability of the hair style when stressed continuously to help deliver all-day flexible style. When

flexible style. The trade-off is amplified in

• f ast drying and excellent shine

formulated in a spray format without shine

55 percent VOC hair sprays.

• very good humidity resistance

additives, it provides a noticeable shine

• restyling capabilities.

benefit on hair. •

To deliver the targeted level of strong hold, compromises are often made in

This dual phase technology is made

natural movement (flexibility) and hair

up of a mixture of two acrylic polymers

feel. Developed specifically for high

consisting of a hard and a soft phase.

performance, 55 percent VOC aerosol

The polymers are random and linear,

sprays and pumps, Acudyne DHR

consisting of polymerised methacrylic acid,

Dow Chemical Company – www.dow.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

33

HAIR CARE

Proven anti-pollution solution for healthy hair SymHair Shield from Symrise is a fully substantiated repair complex based on wheat bran extract. It offers antipollution, anti-dust adhesion and hair repair benefits.

Carolina Lourenco, Adelino Nakano, Marcia Paula based at Symrise’s Hair Care Centre in Brazil, and Gabriele Vielhaber (France) and Gerhard Schmaus (Germany), determined these advantages through an extensive study.

T

he air pollution index has risen over

one to ~20µm. The dust consisted mainly

followed using only the shampoos to

the past few years. Consumers

of oxides, like aluminium, sulphur, calcium,

remove excess dust from the hair surface.

strongly sense air pollution and dust

magnesium, silicon, iron and sodium.

directly affect their health and the

The forces used to comb the hair with

SymHair Shield was applied in standard

a standard comb were measured before

quality of their skin and hair. The general

bases of shampoo and conditioner at 1.0

(initial condition) and after (final condition)

expectation of hair care products is to have

percent in each. Placebo formulations were

the application of the products. The total

cleansing and detox benefits. These days

also tested.

energy of the process was calculated by

consumers also want products that provide

The tresses were bleached using

the integration of the generated curve

commercial lightning powder (Lighter,

of force as a function of the hair length.

Brazil) and hydrogen peroxide 40 volume,

EMIC DL-500 (Instron, USA) equipment was

demonstrates pollution deposited on

for 30 minutes at 25°C. This process was

used for the measurements. The test was

the hair fibre cannot be removed using

repeated twice. Before the tests, the tresses

performed in dry and wet conditions.

a simple shampoo and conditioner, nor

were cleaned in sequence with a 10

can these products protect hair from the

percent solution of SLES.

an efficient anti-pollution shield.

Yet Symrise’s Hair Care Centre

deposition of pollutants.

A combability study was performed to analyse the synergistic effect of SymHair

A dosage of 0.5mℓ of the test

In this context, Symrise developed a

Shield. The two isolated substances, wheat

formulations was applied on the tresses

bran extract (substance A) and pentylene

new technology that protects hair from

and massaged for one minute. For the

glycol (substance B), were applied in the

air pollution dust and helps maintain its

dry condition test, the tresses were left

shampoo and conditioner bases and then

healthy characteristics. Combability and

at a controlled temperature (20°C ± two

the treatments were applied to the tresses.

shine properties were evaluated before and

degrees Celsius and 50 percent ± five

after the exposure to pollution as well as

percent relative humidity to dry overnight).

Results and discussion

pollution residues left on the hair’s surface.

The performance of the placebo

In the evaluation of the formulations, the

formulations was also evaluated.

combability test showed similar levels of

Materials and methods

All the tresses were submitted to dust

energy were required to comb the hair

Caucasian virgin dark brown hair tresses,

exposure for two minutes inside a chamber

prior to hair fibres being treated with the

2.7g and 25cm long (INHIP, NY), were used

containing a rotating support and

shampoo and conditioner products. This

in the study. ISO 12103-1, A1 ultrafine dust

controlled airflow. The dust density used

means all the tresses used showed the

Remancos P&C 177x65mm Quarterfrom page copy.pdf 1 2018/01/29 10:51 AMsession was selected with particle sizes ranging was 150g/m³.

Another cleansing

same initial condition of damage.

WE DEVELOP & MANUFACTURE NEW OR EXISTING PRODUCTS FOR YOUR LINE UTILISING OUR: • • • •

Remancos Nature is our business | www.remancos.co.za

Formulation Development In-house Laboratory Stability & Safety Testing Blending & Filling

• • • •

Production Manufacturing Plant Creative Product & Graphic Design Team Bottle & Packaging Sourcing Marketing Consulting

RESEARCH & MANUFACTURING COSMETICS

we make your dreams a reality.

Tel : +27 11 791 3757 | Cell: +27 745 648268 | Fax : 086 547 1959 ADDRESS:

Unit E2, Metropolitan Park, Wakis Ave. Strijdom park, Jhb. 2196 South Africa Email: candicekalil@remancos.co.za

34

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

HAIR CARE A.

In the wet condition, 0.23 Joules were

B.

C.

Figure 1 A to D

required to comb untreated tresses, which

A) Energy spent to comb tresses in wet conditions

represents 53 percent of energy compared

B) Difference in percentage between the initial and final conditions for wet hair

to the hair before the dust exposure (see Figures 1A & B). This shows the presence of dirt particles hinders the detangling process. The tresses treated with the placebo required 0.17 Joules (13 percent energy) to be combed after exposure (see Figures 1A & B).

In the dry condition, it took 0.11 Joules

D.

C) Energy spent to comb the tresses in dry conditions D) Difference in percentage between the initial and final conditions for dry hair *p<0.05, when the differences between initial and final are compared for SymHair Shield and bleached+dust **p<0.05, when the differences between initial and final are compared between SymHair Shield and placebo treated tresses.

(57 percent of energy) to comb the untreated tresses while the tresses treated

energy (p<0.05, in wet and dry), showing

amounts of pollution adhesion. This

with the placebo required 0.09 Joules (28

the protective film helps prevent high

leads to healthier hair, as it remains

percent of energy) (see Figure 1C). After

amounts of dust from adhering to the

conditioned and easy to comb even

dust exposure, the combing process got

surface of the fibres.

after exposure to pollution. â&#x20AC;˘

more energy intensive (see Figure 1D).

Combing the tresses treated with SymHair Shield required significantly less

Using SymHair Shield as an active ingredient in shampoo and conditioner formulations protects hair from high

Symrise â&#x20AC;&#x201C; www.symrise.com

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

35

PHARMA FOCUS//R&D

SA’s first biosimilar oncology drug approved for use In collaboration with Teva Pharmaceutical Industries, Cipla has introduced the first biosimilar for the oncology and haematology categories in the South African market.

By Abby Vorster

F

ilgrastim Teva, manufactured by

treatments for many life-threatening and rare

Teva and distributed in South Africa

illnesses, such as cancer, diabetes, anaemia,

by Cipla, paves the way for more

rheumatoid arthritis and multiple sclerosis, the

affordable treatments to aid in the

originator products can cost a patient up to

fight against dread diseases such as cancer.

This is according to Paul Miller, CEO of Cipla

R1 million a year.

A biosimilar is highly similar to the original

South Africa.

biologic reference product in terms of quality,

‘This landmark development for the

safety and efficacy. Yet it can be produced at

South African pharmaceutical industry

a significantly lower cost, which reduces the

only happened after a thorough approval

price and increases the number of patients

process by the South African Health Products

with access to the medicine.

Regulatory Authority (SAPRHA). Not only does the approval of Filgrastim Teva hold major

To prove the quality, safety and efficacy of Filgrastim Teva various clinical studies

significance for the advancement of

including phase three safety and efficacy

affordable supportive oncology treatments, but also the learnings from this process will assist Paul Miller

in faster approvals for more biosimilar medicines in future,’ he comments.

SAPRHA’s ability and willingness to approve biosimilars bodes well for the future of South Africa’s pharma

DID YOU KNOW?

trials had to be conducted as part of the registration requirement.

Teva launched Filgrastim in

A study published by medical journal Lancet predicts subSaharan Africa could see an 85 percent increase in the number of cancer cases by 2030.

industry and more importantly, in the drive

2012 in Europe subsequent to EMA approval and FDA approval in the USA, which means it has already been through two stringent approval processes by international health authorities. ‘Because Filgrastim

Teva has been available on the European

to continually improve patient access to life

and American markets for more than seven

saving and new treatment regimens.

years, we have access to a vast database on its safety and efficacy. Due to the high volumes

Under the microscope

of this product being produced, we have been

A biosimilar is a ‘generic’

able to bring the price down dramatically,’

version of a registered

says Miller.

biologic medicine, produced from living cells

A flagship product

using biotechnology,

For every one percent reduction in the price

such as recombinant DNA

of these life saving medicines, the number of

technology, controlled gene

patients with access to them increases by one

expression or antibody

percent. ‘Helping to increase competition in

technologies. While biologic

the market also means patients could have

technology has enabled

access to newer and improved medications

the development of new

much sooner,’ Miller explains.

Filgrastim Teva is manufactured in Europe and distributed in South Africa by Cipla. It is a cornerstone product in the oncology category and used as a supportive treatment to counter one of the major side-effects of chemotherapy. Chemotherapy drugs often disrupt the production of immune cells in the bone marrow of

36

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

PHARMA FOCUS//R&D

INVESTED IN LOCAL MANUFACTURING ALTHOUGH CIPLA HAD initially formed an agreement with government in 2016 to establish a biologics manufacturing facility in South Africa, at the Dube Trade Port in KwaZulu-Natal, it has subsequently renegotiated this Memorandum of Understanding to not only focus on biologics but also cancer treatments and drugs to treat respiratory and metabolic diseases.

‘Cipla will now build a bigger facility in Durban, not only to meet the

Spectroscopic Solutions for the Validated Pharmaceutical Industry

healthcare needs of South African patients, but also the healthcare needs of patients throughout Africa,’ Miller comments.

At this stage, there is no set date for construction of the new facility to commence. Once negotiations with government are finalised, it is believed the facility will create 180 permanent jobs, mostly in the engineering, biological science and pharma R&D fields; a further 120 indirect jobs will also be created.

patients, leading to a condition known as neutropenia. If untreated, this can progress to neutropenic sepsis, which is

ALPHA

FTIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/alpha

TANGO

FT-NIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/tango

a potentially life threatening complication.

This biosimilar works by stimulating bone marrow to produce new white blood cells. In doing so, it decreases the duration of neutropenia experienced by patients after receiving chemotherapy.

It is a testament to the strength of our research and design capabilities ‘Introducing Filgrastim Teva to the South African market will enable us to significantly reduce the cost of treatment for neutropenia. Cancer patients are able to reduce their total oncology expense by using biosimilars such as Filgrastim Teva and more affordable generic chemotherapy treatment,’ he adds.

Filgrastim Teva will be the flagship product in Cipla’s

BRAVO

Handheld Raman Spectrometer www.bruker.com/bravo

OPUS Software supports traceable Reference Standards Instrument Qualification according to USP, PhEur, JP Internal Validation Unit (IVU) for automated OQ & PQ Full 21 CRF part 11 support for Data Security, Integrity, Traceability

existing oncology portfolio of 28 molecules. ‘We feel strongly about this treatment. We see it as an industry wide imperative to help bring down the cost of cancer treatment.’

Avinoam Sapir, senior vice president and head of Teva International Markets’ Israel, Turkey, Ukraine and South Africa cluster says the company is pleased about Filgrastim Teva’s new availability to South African patients. ‘It is a testament to the strength of our research and design capabilities and our commitment to producing high

Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FTIR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and costeffective compliance.

Contact us for more details www.bruker.com/optics

quality, affordable biopharma products.’

Miller adds: ‘This is a proud moment for Cipla. We hope this is the first of many more oncology biosimilars to be

Innovation with Integrity

FTIR/FT-NIR/Raman

introduced locally. Together with Teva, we aim to truly make a difference in the lives of many more patients.’ •

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

37

COLOUR COSMETICS

Does your beauty brand cater to all

demographics?

For a long time the cosmetics industry has struggled to embrace all consumers, yet with the launch of Fenty Beauty in 2017, inclusive makeup is now a major movement. Abby Vorster caught up with Karen Maier, Merck’s head of performance materials in South Africa to find out more about how the business unit is helping consumers express their individuality.

B

eauty for the individual is on everyone’s

available in 28 different shades, the Sorbet Makeup

radar because the one size fits all approach

collection (launched in March) offers endless choice.

is outdated. Rihanna has proven this with Fenty Beauty, which she launched

Personalised or customised beauty is a key area of

drawn international praise for the range of shades it

focus for Merck. At in-cosmetics Global 2018, the

offers, in particular for darker skin tones. For example,

company had several experimental beauty stations

the Pro Filt’r primer and matte foundations are

on its exhibition stand showcasing a rich variety

available in up to 40 different colours, addressing a

of active ingredients, functional fillers and effect

long-criticised gap in cosmetics industry offerings for

pigments to explore and combine. Supported by

women of colour.

Customisable beauty products are powerful and solve real problems

‘Inclusive beauty has sparked a

Merck specialists, visitors could create their own tailored cosmetics product. The functional fillers

great time for the discovery of a wider

experimental station focused on touching, feeling

spectrum of African skin tones. Brands

and creating. This station gave visitors the chance to

should be focusing more on consumer

formulate the perfect foundation for their individual

engagement to meet their colour

skin colour.

needs. There is a gap in the market

Customisable beauty products are powerful and

to figure out what colours work on

solve real problems. ‘Products that can be tweaked

dark skin because normal functional

are the future of the colour cosmetics segment,’

pigments may not be suitable. At

she comments. ‘Local brands looking to innovate in

Merck, we’re working hard to develop

this space should be testing their products in store

solutions for darker skins using internal testing,’

to help consumers find their perfect match. This is

Maier explains.

a key opportunity for brands to develop personal

The waves of change have already hit South African shores with Sorbet’s Skin Tone Project, which

38

Beauty without limitations

in September 2017. The singer’s beauty brand has

relationships with consumers.’

Maier says the customisation trend is also very

took place during 2017 to find the perfect foundation

much about genderless beauty with formulations that

shade for South African women. In collaboration

go beyond stereotypes. ‘The gender spectrum has

with Clicks, Sorbet went on a mission around the

become so diverse. Initial innovations included the

country and mixed and matched, until the brand

2015 launch of “guyliner” and subsequent cover stick

finally nailed the perfect palette that covered all the

for men, but nowadays anything should go for the

skin tones of local consumers. With 92 foundations

male population.’

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

COLOUR COSMETICS Catrice Cosmetics Limited Edition Genderless range of seven unique products for the eyes, lips and face was launched in stores between January and March 2018. The makeup brand says this campaign was encouraged by international designers, who use the credo ‘no gender, no limits’ as inspiration for their collections, consciously sending a strong message for more freedom in the fashion and beauty industry.

‘Gender segregation is being perceived as more and more out-dated – this mind-set requires matching makeup. With the Genderless range, Catrice is giving everyone the opportunity for self-realisation’.

Proven sustainable These days, most consumers shop with a conscience.

They look for mindful and trustworthy brands, which in turn chose to work only with suppliers that mirror their values in terms of truly ethical and sustainably

INTRODUCING OUR RONASTAR BLACK ALLURE IN 2019, MOVING into 2020, Merck predicts

Merck’s newest addition to its Allure range,

a strong resurgence of black. ‘In the depths

Ronastar Black Allure is an exciting matte

of space, black is a mystery and fuels

pigment that unleashes a sensational, deepest

fascination. It beckons with the allure of the

black. Its impact is ideal for graphical elements

unknown to explore shades of ebony’. These

around the eyes, such as eye-shadows,

words from Merck’s latest trend report are

mascara, pencils and eyeliners.

significant for the Ethnic beauty movement in South Africa.

‘Defined eyebrows are a big trend among

‘Using Ronastar Black Allure, these graphical elements add a stark contrast, much like white

African consumers,’ Maier explains. ‘To achieve

outlines in Ndebele art, and

this structured look, they use black colour

provide a base for filling in the

cosmetics in different textures.’

lines with colour,’ she adds.

sourced ingredients.

In India, mica mainly originates from socially

serve the region’s 20 000 residents. Two medical

and economically challenged regions where the

professionals work at the centre and provide regular

Responsible Mica Initiative says more than 20 000

health services to schools. Previously there were no

children work in extremely harsh and unsafe

healthcare facilities of any kind in the region.

conditions to support their families.

‘Our customers and their consumers want proof

Lippy in the limelight

we’re living up to what we communicate from a

Maier says Merck will be rolling out more lip care

sustainable sourcing and ethical practices point of

innovations in the coming months.

view,’ says Maier. ‘To implement fair and sustainable

‘During tough economic times, lipsticks have

mica collection, processing and sourcing practices,

been proven to flourish. With the South African

Merck and several other industry role players

economy having contracted by two percent during

developed the Responsible Mica Initiative.’

the first quarter of 2018, we’re likely to see a rise in

According to Merck’s 2017 sustainability report, instead of suspending business relationships in northern India, the global company made a

the demand for affordable luxuries like lipstick,’ she explains.

Lips are becoming very important and Merck is

conscious decision to take responsibility for the

staying ahead of the trend by helping customers

region by safeguarding local communities and

develop new formats and novel claims for this

jobs. To ensure Merck procures mica without the

segment. Interesting lip care options include

use of child labour, the company has completely

lip butters, jellies, stains, polishes and shines.

reorganised its supply chain and now sources the

International brands have already launched

raw material exclusively from qualified mines. This

novel products, such as a top coat, lip food and a

formal working environment is the only way to ensure

lip powder, which turns into a stain when applied.

compliance with Merck’s standards, since child

For inspiration, Maier advises local brands

labour cannot be ruled out if mica is gathered in

to have a look at Art Deco’s powder lip finish.

publicly accessible areas.

This product is made up of finely milled glitter

Merck is also committed to improving the living conditions of families in the mica mining areas.

particles that transform lipstick into a wholly different look within seconds.

Its efforts include financing three schools run by

Maybelline’s Lip Flush Bitten Lips lipstick

its partner, IGEP, in Jharkhand, where more than

is another exciting example of innovation.

500 children and adolescents are enrolled. At

Claiming the first three-toned ombré lipstick,

a fourth school opened by one of Merck’s mica

the brand invites consumers to show their

suppliers in 2014, the company achieved its goal of

versatile side in an instant swipe to achieve

providing scholarships for 200 children in 2017.

bitten lips. •

Another area of focus is to improve access to healthcare in northern India. In 2010, Merck established a health centre operated by IGEP to

Merck – www.merck4cosmetics.com

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

39

COLOUR COSMETICS

New

functional mineral for makeup

Calcium carbonates supplier Omya has just launched an innovative ingredient for colour cosmetics which offers multiple ways to enhance formulations.

O

allows particles to improve the effectiveness of end products while simultaneously easing the production process.

Omyaskin was unveiled in April in-cosmetics Global and particles are available for worldwide distribution. In South Africa, Omyaskin and other Omya products can be sourced through by

mya has developed a new generation of recrystallised mineral particles for use in

Mattifier and texture enhancer

decorative cosmetics.

Using a patented technology, the company

created a novel mineral composition, branded under the Omyaskin name (INCI: Hydroxyapatite Calcium Carbonate). The new advanced structure offers greater porosity and a larger surface area, which

CJP Chemicals.

By its inherent nature, the incorporated pigment helps to improve the coverage and colour

DID YOU KNOW?

of decorative cosmetics and it boosts SPF in skin creams. The porous structure of the particles can

Omyaskin particles are absorb sebum, reduce drying time produced in Orgon, France and deliver a matte finish. and meet the requirements of Adding between one EC Commission regulation No. and 10 percent Omyaskin 1223/2009 on cosmetics to a formulation enhances products. The product also compressibility and the sensorial comes with a NATRUE benefits of the end product, such certification. as smoothness and a softer skin feel.

Omyaskin can be used as an alternative to talc and kaolin and it improves the performance of titanium dioxide in terms of coverage.

These recrystallised mineral particles are suitable for various applications, including foundations, compact powders, lipsticks and BB/ CC/DD creams. •

CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Omya – www.omya.com

WE DO WHAT IT TAKES Distributors of Raw Chemical Materials Bragan Chemicals.indd 1

40

| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review

www.braganchemicals.co.za 2018/07/23 10:14

PackagingREVIEW SOUTH AFRICAN

August 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 8

www.pharmacos.co.za

Unlock the potential of

coding technology

Cost-effective flexible packaging materials

Aptar launches new eye drop dispenser

NEWS

Are you up to standard with premium codes?

MARKINGS AND CODES are mandatory on FMCG products. Legible and reliable codes benefit everyone in contact with the product, from supply chain managers to retailers and consumers.

It is imperative codes appear on pharmaceutical packaging for traceability and serialisation requirements and from a legal standpoint.

The global market for marking and coding equipment is anticipated to grow, with revenues expected to increase more than 1.7 times over the next eight years.

Future Market Insights predicts this market will reach a value of more than US$1.7 billion by the end of 2027, reflecting a CAGR of 5.5 percent throughout the forecast period.

An innovative anti-counterfeiting technology for pharma labelling will be released next month

SLIMMER, SLEEKER

at Label Expo in Chicago. Do not miss the exclusive on this exciting development. Turn to

DEODORANT CAN FOR NIVEA

page 44 now to find out more about this and the latest news in marking equipment and

The personal care brand has a new look for its female range of deodorants in a taller, sleek shaped aluminium aerosol can. The new packaging designed by Beiersdorf and manufactured by the Ardagh Group has already been rolled out in South Africa.

capabilities.

Enjoy the read!

Assistant Editor Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za

ANTALIS NOW A 100 PERCENT SOUTH AFRICAN COMPANY THE PAPER, PACKAGING and graphic

with his business partner, there will be

solutions provider recently announced

a combined 51 percent of the division,

its move to become a black empowered

which includes a 30 percent black

company with the 100 percent local

female shareholding.

buyout of shares owned by the global division.

In the process of divesting from South

managing director.

directors. The company will continue to

components manufactured using a newly developed grade of thermoplastic elastomers (TPE). The Thermoplast M family of TPE, developed by Kraiburg TPE, is for medical applications.

Because the TPE components come into direct contact with the eye drop

Each MD will concentrate on

formulation, Aptar Pharma requires the

business functions specific to their

use of medical grade plastics. These

core strengths for operational

materials must comply with stringent

efficiencies and market optimisation.

percent black and 30 percent black

regulations for the primary packaging

‘Kalidas and Waldeck realised the

female owned. Its B-BBEE maximum

buyout opportunity presented by

procurement recognition level will

Antalis International would result in the

enable Antalis South Africa to partner

formation of a truly empowered South

with government, state-owned entities

African entity,' says Romano Daniels,

and other organisations that prioritise

spokesperson for Antalis South Africa.

the country’s transformation agenda.

He says together with a 320-strong

The company has a net asset value

team, it will continue to serve existing

exceeding R200 million and an annual

and new customers with excellent

turnover of more than R1 billion.

service, innovative product ranges

The new shareholder team includes

dispenser (OSD) incorporates several functional

49 percent of the company

shares to two existing Antalis South Africa

African owned business that is 51

APTAR PHARMA’S NEW ophthalmic squeeze

South Africa, holds the remaining and will assume the role of joint

The entity becomes an entirely South

FOR EYE DROPS

Raymond Waldeck, MD of Antalis

Africa, Antalis International sold all its

trade as Antalis South Africa.

MEDICAL GRADE TPE

of sensitive medications.

Moisturising eye drops are a proven remedy for dry eyes. These products, which seldom contain preservatives, can cause allergic reactions. The OSD from Aptar Pharma has been in widespread use as a dispenser for

The new ophthalmic squeeze dispenser

preservative-free eye drops. This is owing to its microbiological safety and easy and precise dosing capabilities.

and industry expertise. 'These are

Antalis South Africa’s existing financial

elements critical to the ongoing

director Neelesh Kalidas, who will serve

success of the business,’

as joint managing director. Together

he concludes.

To optimise the product, the manufacturer sought a thermoplastic processable material, which allows direct contact with medications. Aptar Pharma’s OSD is the only

Raymond Waldeck and Neelesh Kalidas

repeated-use dosing system in the world and is approved by the FDA for preservative-free liquid medications. The design contains no metal parts. It is also suitable for very sensitive formulations. The purely mechanical functioning principle of the seal membrane and spring unit eliminates the possibility of microbiological contamination of the liquid.

Kraiburg TPE also provides grades of Thermoplast M for syringes.

42

| AUGUST 2018 | Packaging Review

Squid Ink Coding and Marking Solutions

SQ2 Printer Drop on Demand Large Character ink jet system prints high quality dot-matrix characters on a variety of surfaces at a cost-effective price.

CoPilot 382 Streamline 5 CIJ printing system prints superior quality small characters on a variety of substrates: porous, nonporous, smooth, textured, curved, concave and more.

SQ Laser Printer

Thermal Transfer Overprinter

Designed for high speed primary coding applications. Permanently mark onto paper, cardboard, plastic, glass, wood, coated metal, leather, and more.

Uses thermal printheads paired with thermal transfer ribbon to apply a consistent, reliable mark on your products. The SQ-32 and SQ-53 models offer razor sharp high speed printing of serial numbers, barcodes, logos and graphics at 300 DPI.

CAPE TOWN Tel: 021-534 0215 DURBAN Tel: 031-569 4199 JOHANNESBURG Tel: 011-312 4976 sales@goldpack.co.za www.goldpack.co.za

THE AD SHOP 3258

Hi-resolution ink jet printing system offers 2.1 print height from a single print head with the ability to run up to 4 print heads from a single controller.

CODING & MARKING

Forgery – a thing of the past!

Codes and markings on packs and labels are beneficial in a number of ways, from meeting traceability requirements and assuring consumers of product authenticity to delivering a customised experience. Aarifah Nosarka brings you an exclusive on new anti-counterfeit technology.

S

quid Ink Manufacturing, a producer

One tablet may be used to

‘This is a selling point made by some

of superior quality inks and inkjet

communicate with a number of Streamline

resellers, which claim their ribbon is best.

printing equipment, has introduced

printers or any other Squid Ink case coding

Ribbons actually have a special silicon

printer using the Orion software platform.

based anti-static back coating. This

the Squid Streamline 5 CIJ printing system.

The technology is designed to print

Streamline’s self-cleaning printhead

protects the print head and can leave end

small superior quality characters on a

with CleanJet maintenance routine allows

users assuming the coating is an added

variety of substrates, including porous,

quick and easy automatic start up and

value feature of a particular brand and

non-porous, smooth, textured, curved

shut down. A simple press of a button

worth paying extra. This is especially true

and concave. Printing up to five lines of

commands the printer to go through

considering the high cost of replacing

text, the Streamline offers a reliable, yet

a start up cycle or flush the system for

thermal print heads,’ he adds.

cost-effective solution for virtually any

shutdown. When routine maintenance is

small character, primary packaging

required components can be

coding application.

swapped out within minutes.

Unlike other CIJ printers on the market,

This eliminates the need to

this system does not require a built-in

purchase expensive filter and

display screen. It operates with a wireless

pump assemblies or schedule

or wired touchscreen tablet, running

costly service calls.

Squid Ink’s powerful Orion software. This

Changing fluids in the

Back coatings on thermal transfer

Changing fluids in the Streamline 5 is a simple, fast and clean process

ribbons are not unique to any particular brand. It is a standard among well established ribbon producers to apply a back coating.

‘In the event you remove the identifying features of competing ribbons and rely solely on

allows users the option of controlling

Streamline 5 is a simple, fast

their printers on the production floor or

and clean process. Clean

networking multiple systems from one

cartridges of ink and make-up

central location.

are replaced in seconds without the need

performance? The simple answer is no,’

to stop production.

says Aitken.

No chips or RFID tags are used to lock users into a fluids hostage situation with the printer manufacturer.

The technology is available through the authorised South African distributor, Goldpack.

one ribbon, will it be possible to differentiate between the different ribbons based purely on

In the current tough economic climate every method of cutting costs must be considered.

‘Coding consumables and thermal print heads are certainly an area where manufacturers can save a small fortune in the long term,’ he explains.

DEBUNK THERMAL TRANSFER MYTHS

Specialised Printing Products is a coding consumable supplier. The company’s

Chances are a

offerings extend to hot stamping foil,

premium is charged

thermal transfer ribbons and hot foil coders.

when manufacturers exclusively use certain

Pyrotec PackMark has a variety of coding

for ‘best before’ or batch

solutions, which company GM, Brandon

coding because a supplier

Pearce, says provides a good return on

has suggested a certain ribbon is best for a particular The Squid Streamline 5 CIJ printing system

44

| AUGUST 2018 | Packaging Review

A COMPACT, FULL FEATURE SOLUTION

branded consumables

printer. This is according to Graeme Aitken, MD of Specialised Printing Products.

investments. As the sole South African distributor of Markem-Imaje’s equipment, the company has built its market knowledge and consultative approach.

CODING & MARKING ‘The Markem-Imaje range assists in

This exciting new technology from

adapting our offering to customers’

IQDEMY enables multilayer expanded

specific needs. We also provide

coding, especially with QR codes,

insights, technologies and support

using multiple colours. Using only

to help clients with their required

four colours, it offers up to 4.3 billion

packaging operations. We are keen

unique and almost impossible to

to help our clientele to overcome

counterfeit variants.

increasing competitive

Quantum dot printed security

pressure, implement more complex operations and meet demanding retailer and regulatory mandates.’

Markem-Imaje’s 9000 Series of small character inkjet coders are full-feature printers.

DID YOU KNOW?

marks are invisible under normal conditions and can be transparent,

On pharmaceutical labels, mixing tones using quantum dot technology increases code capacity exponentially.

Designed for demanding manufacturing environments, their general purpose is for specific

like spot varnish. This technology can be used to print on almost any substrate, using UV varnish or a waterbased solution as a carrier.

These codes have been tested successfully in laboratory conditions

applications such as high contrast and

to withstand temperatures over 400°C

high performance marking. Markets

without any changes occurring to their

for these coders include cosmetics

structure or features. This endurance

and toiletries.

makes the technology compatible

product protection is impressive. Products

with lamination. The codes also

can easily be authenticated using UV

are designed to print on all types of

maintain their colour for up to 10 years

flashlights with or without photodetectors

substrates like plastic, glass, metal,

and are highly resistant to external

or spectrophotometers connected to

cardboard and directly from standard

chemical impact.

computers and software.

The consumables for the 9000 Series

to specific applications including

Despite the advanced technology,

Markem-Imaje’s 9000 Series

Consumers can easily verify the

sterilisation and UV curing. They are

quantum dot technology is surprisingly

authenticity of their product purchase

also available in a variety of colours

affordable with a one centimetre by one

while manufacturers can track products

and a choice of alcohol-based, water-

centimetre spot code using UV lacquer

through all stages of the supply chain

based, ketone-free and MEK-free inks.

as a carrier. The value it will add to

which makes it easy to check up on distributors and retailers. This technology

NEW TECHNOLOGY COMING SOON An innovative anti-counterfeiting technology for pharma labelling will be released in September at Label Expo

This quantum dot technology from IQDEMY enables multilayer expanded coding

offers manufacturers complete information about the life cycle of their products.

Product data and distribution are effectively protected by the

2018 in Chicago and concurrently in

IQDEMY blockchain system using

South Africa.

this technology.

The technology is quantum dots,

The South African launch of

which are metal based nanoparticles

quantum dot technology by

with semi-conductive properties,

NSI 4 Africa will be concurrent

absorbing light in the UV spectrum and

with the scheduled global release,

visibly emitting it. They’re made up of

meaning local

inorganic elements, such as Indium, Graphene or Perovskite and range between two and 10 nanometres in size.

The quantum dot printed security

pharma companies will have access to this advanced

codes are impossible to replicate

authentication system

with normal printing because the

at the same time as their

non-homogenous embedded colour code will be unreadable. Commonly

counterparts in Europe and the USA. •

used 2D security options like QR codes and barcodes are composed of single colour matrices with each pixel representing one bit of information.

Such elements can be coded with up to 2 953 bits, which is approximately one page of printed information.

Goldpack – www. goldpack.co.za NSI 4 Africa – www.nsi4africa.com Pyrotec PackMark – www. pyrotec.co.za Specialised Printing Products – www.sppdirect.com

Packaging Review | AUGUST 2018 |

45

CODING & MARKING

ZERO DEFECT printing Having started in 2002 from humble beginnings as a two man team inside a garage, Alternative Coding Solutions now has more than a dozen staff members across the country. It is the sole supplier of Hitachi’s inkjet printers in South Africa and neighbouring states.

By Aarifah Nosarka

H

itachi’s industrial inkjet (IJ) printers

are easily replaced by rotating the joint,

are high speed non-contact

without any tools.

Ink viscosity and consumption are always at optimum levels owing to a monitoring system. The series

printing machines. They can print

on a variety of substrates, including metal,

RELIABILITY IS KEY

comes with a tapered shape at the

plastic, film and paper.

IC tags for ink and makeup cartridges

tip of printheads thereby reducing

have been adopted in the UX series.

the distance between work and the

durability of these printers are really

These tags prevent an incorrect

printhead, which is fitted with anti-

impressive,’ says Naeem Patel, co-owner of

cartridge from being installed. Incorrect

corrosion plates. It is also possible to

Alternative Coding Solutions.

cartridges are passed over to the

‘The speed, flexibility, reliability and

Hitachi’s UX series is the newest range

main unit, which is equipped

available on the market which is suitable

with an RFID function. An error

for a number of industries, including

message appears on screen

pharma and cosmetics.

as soon as the incorrect

‘This series provides up to 50 percent cost savings on makeup compared to previous versions. They are also one of

cartridge is scanned.

The UX series is manufactured

DID YOU KNOW?

print to lower positions.

CO2 LASER MARKER

Hitachi manufactured its first industrial printer in 1975.

with stainless steel cabinets to

Hitachi’s high level laser marker, the LM-C300, meets a variety of coding requirements.

The system has a new, icon

based 10-inch full colour touch

the cheapest coding technologies to

meet the needs for hygiene standards.

run. Makeup is the fluid used in these

These cabinets offer IP65 protection

screen, which enables easy and

machines,’ Patel comments.

and allow wash down with pressured

intuitive operations. According to Patel,

water and industrial detergents. Patel

its wysiwyg design provides seamless

cartridges can be used up to the last drop.

describes the series as ideal technology

operations by displaying print data and

It is not necessary to stop the production

for pharma and cosmetics markets.

settings immediately.

The ink and makeup fluid in the series’

line to replace cartridges. An ecosystem

What’s more is this particular series has

The series can be operated with

of a simple cartridge-type bottle can be

an automatic nozzle cleaning button.

a laser application. An example is a

replaced after the ink or makeup fluid is

When the button is pushed, the system

Windows based operation that supports

finished and easily disposed. These printers

begins automatic cleaning, which stops

all kinds of applications to prepare and

are designed so minimal parts or modules

as soon as the process is completed.

save print data. The laser marker has guide laser and pointer features. These

The UX series IJ printer

SIMPLE USABILITY

allow print positions on objects to be

A new easy to understand screen design

checked whilst the pointer makes it easy

is featured on the UX series. Most work can be completed on

to check the centre of all prints.

The system is capable of printing

one screen using a simplified

up to 600 characters per second on

process. There is no need

a variety of objects, which are either

for complicated operations

stationary or moving at a high speed on

to obtain the necessary

production lines. It also features a font

information to improve

editor, stable laser output, depth control

usability. All operations are

and intersection adjustment.

displayed on screen.

Comprehensive

‘We are certain of the quality of Hitachi’s printers and offer a demo

illustrations pop up on screen

at a customer’s premises without any

when troubleshooting,

obligations. We maintain seeing is

maintenance or ink

believing,’ Patel concludes. •

filter replacement is required. These assist in quality maintenance.

46

| AUGUST 2018 | Packaging Review

Alternative Coding Solutions – www.altcode.co.za

Industrial coding and marking solutions Alternative Coding Solutions, the proud supplier of Hitachi inkjet printers in South Africa, now introduces the new range of the UX series printers, which can do up to six lines of print.

This dynamic company offers the complete range of Hitachi printing machines, from the economy UX-B line model for basic applications, right up to the UX-D 150, one of the world’s fastest inkjet printers, which can print more than 3 100 characters/second.

PROVEN RELIABILITY & ECONOMY

Hitachi reliability has been proven on the South African market. All machines have innovative ink cartridge systems that reduce fluid consumption and operating costs.

The machine does not require expensive core or module replacement.

Laser printers are also available with no ink and make up costs.

QUALITY CODING • Easy, quick operation with large touch screen • Nozzle and gutter automatically cleaned • Small footprint, light weight • User-friendly, cost-effective, easy maintenance • Wide range of inks and colours • Up to 50% saving on make up

Hitachi Industrial Equipment Systems Co.,Ltd. http://www.hitachi-ies.co.jp/ english/ products/ijp/index.htm

ALTERNATIVE CODING SOLUTIONS | A supplier of Hitachi Coding Equipment

JHB Tel: 011 708 7468 | Naeem: 082 783 4584 | Michael: 082 880 7722 | National sales: Shezaad: 060 997 5165 | sales@altcode.co.za www.altcode.co.za

FLEXIBLE PACKAGING

How to protect and preserve your products There are different materials options used in the makeup of flexible packaging. Aarifah Nosarka looks at the role of each and the most popular packaging types.

E

very single layer in a flexible pouch

Flexible packaging is attracting

performs a crucial role in the

a lot of negative attention at the

packaging’s performance and

moment because a large amount

presentation. Grant Fryer, operations

of this medium is neither recyclable

director at Mtech SA, says these

nor biodegradable. ‘Big retailers are

pouches are manufactured from a

trending away from non-recyclable

variety of substrates laminated together,

products in their sustainability drives.

including polyester, PET, PP, BOPP, polyamide, BOPA, aluminium foil and polyethylene. Each substrate provides specific performance characteristics such as oxygen, moisture, light, chemical, puncture and tear resistance, as well as rigidity

There is no replacement for flexible

DID YOU KNOW?

Flexible bags can be produced in up to five layers.

and heat sealability.

packaging, especially when brands want to extend the

layer of polypropylene or polyester. The final layer is almost always polyethylene, primarily because of its superior heat sealing characteristics. Most large FMCG

shelf life of their products,’

companies procure flexible packaging in

he comments.

reel form, which is converted into finished

SCOUT THE MARKET Packaging is thriving in the pharma and cosmetic industries.

pouches or bags. This is the most costeffective and efficient way to package finished products. Smaller companies in the home care segment normally purchase

The company uses PET, BOPP, foils

Rising at a steady 2.9 percent year on

and LDPE structures in its single and

year, Smithers Pira forecasts the global

multilayer flexible packs. The popular

market will be worth US$980 billion by

is a global trend. A key differentiator for

formats in pharmaceutical packaging

2022. However, the flexible sector is

these packs is the use of holographic film,

are coextruded structures of flexibles.

more pronounced with a predicted

available in BOPET, BOPP and CPP. These

annual growth rate of 4.3 percent over

materials offer excellent mechanical and

the next four years.

chemical properties. If used in a metallised

Mtech SA prints multi-layered laminates and foil laminates commonly used in the pharma industry for liquids and powders.

Flexible bags in polyester or

finished bags and pack products by hand.

Packaging with superior on-shelf appeal

format, the substrate creates a strong

In addition, barrier films are of extreme

polypropylene are typically reverse

barrier to oxygen, light and moisture and,

importance. ‘This is a market in which

printed in up to 10 colours, using the

as a result, prolongs a product’s shelf life. •

we excel. The popular items are our

rotogravure or flexographic process. The

laminated barrier structures, consisting of

substrate is then solvent free laminated

PET or foil,’ says Fryer.

to aluminium foil, or a metallised

48

| AUGUST 2018 | Packaging Review

Mtech SA – www.mtech.co.za

ASSOCIATION NEWS//

PIF requirements in focus On 18 July, Coschem hosted a mid day lecture at Evonik in Midrand, Johannesburg on GHS, SDS and PIF requirements for the cosmetics and personal care industry. Registered professional scientist and the local representative for Lisam Systems, Belinda Berry shared her extensive expertise on these topics.

T

he cosmetics industry is facing

as long as the PIF is available at the

a period of transition from self-

address on the label’ she explained.

regulation to enforced regulation

‘The PIF must also be in the native

by the Department of Health. While

language of state where the product is

the regulations have not yet been

being sold.’

promulgated, the draft regulations are largely based on requirements for

CRUCIAL AND COMPLEX

the EU. To bring industry up to speed

The CPSR is a vital and complex section

on certain necessities within these

of the PIF. In essence, it confirms the

proposed regulations, Berry focused

product is safe for use. The CPSR

on the structure and definitions of

consists of the following parts:

a product information file (PIF), the

• A – safety information

minimum information required for a PIF

• B – safety assessment

and safety assessment requirements,

• the method of manufacturing

all according to the EU regulations,

• evidence of GMP compliance

as well as basic GHS and SDS

• any product claims and the

requirements in South Africa and the

substantiation thereof

differences globally in terms of GHS.

• data on animal testing –

The draft regulations for PIF requirements (Section 4) match those of the EU, yet Berry advised this could change with promulgation. A fixed

on animals The CSPR needs to be completed and signed off by an expert in the field of toxicology. The PIF is kept by the responsible person (typically the business

made up of two parts,

owner/manufacturer) at 6

contains the information

an EU address. It can be electronic or in any

other format and needs

exposure to the product,

to be easily accessible. It should be

the toxicological profile, physical

kept for 10 years after the last batch of

and chemical data, microbiological

products has been produced.

testing and claims support. Part B is

the CSPR, such as the composition,

(CPSR), which includes the assessment

stability, micro testing, quality and

conclusion, label requirements and the

impurities such as heavy metals or

assessor’s credential. If the product is

pesticides. The type of manufacturing

assessed safe, it is then signed by the

process is also key in terms of the

safety assessor.

impurities and quality of a product.

Making this information available to

because it contains sensitive

the safety assessor is crucial to the

information and IP. However, the

outcomes of the safety assessment,’

responsible person must also have

Berry added.

access to the PIF. For brands exporting

4

5

The PIF is not a public document because it contains sensitive information and IP 7

‘A lot of data is required to complete

the Cosmetic Product Safety Report

‘The PIF is not a public document

3

product has not been tested

for the PIF, which is

on the product including

2

confirmation is required that the

format is required

being A and B. Section A

1

Coschem hosts regular lectures,

to the EU, the PIF is important from a

seminars and networking events. For

distributor perspective, but does not

more information on these events, send

need to be disclosed to the distributor

an e-mail to bridget@coschem.co.za. •

8

9

1: Vincent Tau of TUT and Lee-Ann Raaff of SMU 2: Beverley and Robert Summers of SMU 3: Zama Mongalo and Sinette Martyn of Avroy Shlain with Coschem’s Bridget MacDonald 4: Dinoshnee Naidoo of Ashkan Trading and Sharon Myers of Adcock Ingram 5: Willie Mokhabuki of Inveschem and Harold Malepe of Evonik 6: Belinda Berry of Lisam Systems 7: Kirsten Scott of Wacker and Frankie Luke of Evonik 8: Kim MacCallum of Vantage and Charis Gratz of D&A Cosmetics 9: Maxine Robertson and Pearl Boso of Symrise

P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |

49

Tea time Can you find your way in our maze?

TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive

Solution

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive

ADVERTISERS' INDEX

+27 (0)71 438 1918

Acacia Chemicals...............................21...... www.acaciachem.co.za Alternative Coding Solutions...............47...... www.altcode.co.za Botanichem........................................ 17...... www.botanichem.co.za Bragan Chemicals..............................40...... www.braganchemicals.co.za Brucker SA..........................................37...... www.bruker.com/optics CIM Chemicals...................................25...... www.cim.co.za CJP Chemicals...................................30...... www.cjpchemicals.co.za Enna Industrial Ingredients.................22...... www.ennaii.co.za Evonik.................................................28...... www.evonik.com Goldpack............................................43...... www.goldpack.co.za H&R South Africa................................23...... www.hur.com IMCD SA.............................................27...... www.grantinc.com ISW Shrink..........................................48...... www.iswshrink.co.za

50

| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review

Lubrizol Advanced Materials............ OBC...... www.go.lubrizol.com/fixatekeratin M&L Laboratory Services.................... 18...... www.za.bureauveritas.com Materia Medica.....................................9...... www.materiamedica.co.za Millchem............................................31...... www.millchem.co.za Moco Packaging...................................5...... www.mocopack.co.za O6 Agencies.......................................35...... www.o6southafrica.com Protea Chemicals............................ OFC...... www.proteachemicals.co.za Remancos..........................................34...... www.remancos.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals...................33...... www.savannah.co.za Sensetek.............................................29 ..... www.sensetek.biz Symrise............................................. IFC...... www.symrise.com Wacker Chemicals..............................26...... www.wacker.com/transparency

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems,

Chemists’websitewillfindinformation

Enzymes,FunctionalActives,Silicones,Emollients,Emulsifiers,Meadowfoam

on membership, educational

Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters,

programmes (specific details

Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

pertaining to the Cosmetic Science

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

Diploma),aswellasthesociety’sobjectivesofpromotingprofessionalismand higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.

www.coschem.co.za

M&L LABORATORY M&LLaboratoryServices(Pty)Ltd,providesclientswithanextensivearrayof analyticalcapabilities.M&LrenderstestingservicestotheFood&Beverage, Mining,Environmental,Water&Pharmaceuticalsectors.M&LisanISO17025 accreditedfacility,licencedbytheMedicineControlCouncil(MCC)&endorsed bytheWorldHealthOrganisation(WHO).Ourscheduleof accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com

Glassdistributors&importersofspecialistglassbottlesandclosures.Weare officialdistributorsforConsolGlass.Dalgenisyouronestoppackagingshop, specialisinginpharmaceutical&cosmeticcontainers.Weareabletoservice all areas in Africa.

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

FORMPAK

BRB SILICONES

Forover40yearsFormpakhassuppliedspecialisedprocessing,packaging

Thelargestindependentproducerintheworldofcoreand

and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

specialtysilicones,BRBoffersawiderangeofsolutions withuniquebenefitsinskin,bodyandhaircareandcolour cosmetics.

www.brb-international.com

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER

QUANTUM COLOURS SA

LookGoodFeelBetter,aglobalcosmeticindustryprogrammeofferssupport

Your No. 1 industry leader for the

to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social needs and well being.

most comprehensive ranges of both

At2hourinteractiveworkshopsheldinoncologyunitsacrossSA,cosmetics

synthetic and natural colours – used

areusedastoolstoaddressvisiblesideeffectsoftreatmenttoassistpatients

in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and

to restore self-esteem and face the world

industrial applications.

with confidence.

www.lgfb.co.za

Tablet coatings – manufactured, suppliedandmarketedgloballyunderour trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.co.za

Hair Transformation from the Inside

Safe

Effortless

Proven

Using non-formaldehyde and non-glyoxylic acid chemistry

Fixate™ Keratin enables long-lasting care benefits improving hair manageability from the inside

Salon tested and validated on different hair types

For complete application instructions, formulation details and sample requests please contact Fixatekeratin@lubrizol.com or visit Go.Lubrizol.com/FixateKeratin The information contained herein is reliable based on current information, but Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. (“Lubrizol”) makes no representations, guarantees or warranties, express or implied, including any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose, or regarding the completeness, accuracy, or timeliness of any information. Lubrizol does not guarantee how its products will perform in combination with other substances or in the User’s process. PRODUCT SAFETY INFORMATION REQUIRED FOR SAFE USE IS NOT INCLUDED. BEFORE HANDLING, READ PRODUCT AND SAFETY DATA SHEETS AND CONTAINER LABELS FOR SAFE USE, PHYSICAL AND HEALTH HAZARD INFORMATION. THE SAFETY DATA SHEET IS AVAILABLE FROM YOUR LUBRIZOL REPRESENTATIVE, OR DISTRIBUTOR. Nothing contained herein is to be considered as permission, recommendation, nor as an inducement to practice any patented invention without permission of the patent owner. Any claims associated with this product may not be approved in all jurisdictions. © Copyright 2018 The Lubrizol Corporation. All trademarks owned by the Lubrizol Corporation.

18-138979