August 2020
Volume 47 | Number 8
47
years www.pharmacos.co.za
We go the extra mile
WHAT’S HOT IN HAIR CARE? Scalp health, serums & novel ingredients
REGULATIONS & TESTING Everything you need to be compliant
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES New commitments and initiatives in focus
From one
brave team to another‌ Thank Thankyo you u to everyone in everyone in manufacturing and manufacturing and essential ices essential serv services for keeping keeping tthe for he machines machines run running ning and shelves shelves sto stocked, and cked, during the COVID-19 COV ID-19 the shutdown.
You are the unsung heroes!
Our #PurplePeople salute you!
New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd.
August 2020
Contents
Volume 47 | Number 8 www.pharmacos.co.za
35 Regulations & Testing Cirebelle’s analytical services help you to navigate testing A closer look at hair fibre testing with Dia-Stron CTFA keeps the self-regulatory wheel in motion How to conduct skin measurements during COVID-19
40
44 Sustainable Packaging & Practices L’Oréal unveils bolds sustainability targets for 2030 New 100% recyclable sheet mask packaging
32 6 News Pharma industry helps fight COVID-19 Environ supports COVID-19 frontline workers New digital campaign for Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients
9 Product News What’s New in South Africa
44 24 Hair Care
Sucrose esters – the multifunctional, coldprocessable emulsifier
Microbiome research promotes a healthy scalp
Sustainable ingredients for hair and skin care
The building blocks of healthier hair
Russell Finex and PSL collaborate on contained sieving solution
Evonik’s three-step approach to care for curls
Biopark@Gauteng offers business support to biotech entrepreneurs
22 Industry Talk
P&C Review and Symrise reveal a re-energised contest
Nielsen explores the new shopper normal
Setting quality standards for recycled plastic for cosmetics Sustainability now a core issue for Optima
16 Process & Manufacturing Technology
10 New Product Competition
Skin Rejuvenation Technologies cleans up its primary packaging act
14
How to innovate with Dow’s new gum blends Symrise launches new antidandruff active
On the cover
41 Pharma Focus: Supply Chain & Logistics System logistics provider accelerates access to medicines Pandemic fast-tracks air freight supply chain progress
X Days 2020 brought to
you by The Marchesini Group, in collaboration with its local agent, MGSA Projects
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
3
FROM THE EDITOR
Designing for a more beautiful world
S
ustainability is an ongoing conversation we need to have – in all industries, including personal care and pharmaceuticals. Some estimates say product packaging waste is as much as one-third of the refuse that ends up in landfills. Once it’s there, the plastic can take up to a millennium to break down, posing a significant risk to wildlife while leaching toxins into water systems and soil. But the sustainability conversation isn’t only centred on packaging. It’s just as much about responsible and ethical sourcing and transparency in the supply chain. This – experts say – is key to tackling sustainability issues in the cosmetics industry. In June, L’Oréal communicated its new quantifiable sustainability targets for 2030, committing to using recycled or bio-based sources for 100% of the plastics used in the packaging of its products. The global beauty giant has also developed a product impact labelling system to inform consumers of the environmental and social impact of their products, and that of raw materials and packaging suppliers involved in getting the products to market. You can read more about this bold move by L’Oréal on page 44, in the sustainable packaging and practices feature, in this edition of Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. We’re also excited to share Skin Rejuvenation Technologies’ journey to transition to eco-friendly primary packaging for all of its brands, including optiphi and Delta Medical Skincare, and the development of an international standard for the use of mechanically recycled plastic waste in cosmetics packaging. The Marchesini Group’s X Days are featured on our cover this month. The Italian packaging manufacturer, represented locally by MGSA
Projects, created X Days to continue to share knowledge during a time when personal contact, trade shows and international travel are limited. Turn to page 14 to learn more about this series of extraordinary online events as well as what’s new at MGSA Projects. In our hair care feature on page 24, we explore new ingredients and formulation technologies for hair and scalp care. You can read about Jan Dekker’s clean, natural and organic-certified ingredients, ethically sourced from all over the world; BASF’s microbiome research that has given rise to Scalposine, a new active ingredient that promotes a healthy scalp; and Dow’s new collection of gum blends that cater to universal hair care needs. Our regulations and testing feature on page 35 is also a ‘must-read’. Dia-Stron provides a closer look at how scientific tests using specialised instruments provide repeatable, unbiased results for product verification and claim substantiation; CTFA updates us on how the association is keeping the self-regulatory wheel in motion for the South African cosmetics industry; and Courage + Khazaka electronic explores the realities of conducting skin measurements in difficult times. Stay safe and enjoy the read.!
The team EDITORIAL
EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti SUB-EDITOR: Katrien Smit CONTRIBUTORS: Beate Becker, Dr Chamunorwa Togo, Christiane Uhl, Dershana Jackison, Jacques Strydom
ADVERTISING
SALES EXECUTIVE: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za SALES EXECUTIVE: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za SALES EXECUTIVE: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za
INTERNATIONAL SALES
Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk
CIRCULATION
CIRCULATION MANAGER: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za
PUBLISHING TEAM
GENERAL MANAGER: Dev Naidoo PRODUCTION CONTROLLER: Mandy Ackerman ART DIRECTOR: David Kyslinger
JOHANNESBURG OFFICE
New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd
MANAGEMENT TEAM
CEO: Aileen Lamb COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone HUMAN RESOURCES MANAGER: Leoné Fouché CEO MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
Vivian Frittelli
P C Review is the official journal of:
CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
4
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
John Knowlton
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - T he Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by Novus Print - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
NEWS
New Kromasil product for pharma purification Nouryon has introduced a new version of
at a lower
its Kromasil silica-based chromatography
cost compared
material targeting the purification and
to solvent-
analysis of pharmaceutical samples.
based HPLC.
Kromasil C18(w) is a wettable-phase
“The use of an
Johan Landfors, president of technology solutions at Nouryon
product that enables the purification
aqueous system
and analysis of samples under aqueous
and a silica chromatography medium is
conditions using high-performance liquid
more sustainable than HPLC using organic
chromatography (HPLC). This makes it
solvents and polymer-based separation
suitable for compounds such as peptides,
materials,” Wilhelm comments.
proteins and other biomolecules, as well as food and beverage products. “Many pharmaceutical production
Johan Landfors, president of technology solutions at Nouryon, adds: “Our team works closely with customers to continually
processes occur in aqueous solutions,” says
innovate and develop new applications and
Patrick Wilhelm, vice president of colloidal
uses for Kromasil which help us to grow
silica at Nouryon. “The functionality of
with them. This new product is a great
some biomolecules, especially proteins,
addition to our Kromasil line and will help
can be impaired when organic solvents
the industry develop even more sustainable
are present. This new Kromasil version
chromatography processes.”
allows the purification and analysis to be completed under fully aqueous conditions.” Use of Kromasil C18(w) also enables customers to achieve specified purification
Kromasil C18(w) is available in slurrypacked columns targeted to analytical users. It is also available in bulk for industrial separations.
EcoVadis Platinum medal awarded to Silab Silab, represented locally by Meganede, has
who are strongly involved in this
been rewarded for its
eco-attitude.”
exemplary performance
The company invests heavily
in social responsibility, receiving a Platinum medal from EcoVadis which is the highest distinction in the rating platform. With a score of 73/100 in four areas
to promote water and energy savings, while implementing a very strict zero waste policy. In the same way, Silab takes care of the wellbeing and fulfilment of its staff, a particular focus that is demonstrated at various levels, including:
(environment, social and human rights, ethics
• a personalised welcome of
and responsible procurement), Silab joins the
new employees
top 1% of companies awarded the best ratings
• commitment to gender equality
by EcoVadis. Previously, the company has
• actions by the health and safety team
held a Gold certification for four consecutive
• continuous staff training.
years. Xavier Gaillard, managing director for
One of the notable initiatives carried out in
strategy at Silab, says: “Our independence
2019 was the involvement of its staff in World
gives us the strategic autonomy necessary to
Clean-up Day. This and other initiatives of
express innovation at every level of activity,
Silab are detailed in a report available on the
while integrating nature in each stage of our
company’s website.
product development. We do everything
6
active commitment by all our staff,
Published every year, this document sets
we can to define sustainable strategies
out Silab’s main sustainable achievements
appropriate to environmental and biodiversity
in terms of innovation and strategy, supply,
protection. We are proud and delighted to
environmental protection, social policy and
receive this distinction today, the result of an
sharing of values.
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Pharma industry helps fight COVID-19
The Innovative Pharmaceutical Association South Africa (IPASA), representing 26 innovative research-based pharmaceutical companies, fully supports the efforts by government to flatten the curve of COVID-19. IPASA empathises with those who have been impacted by the pandemic and in particular the healthcare workers and researchers working diligently daily to support patients and find lasting medical solutions to end this pandemic. The association believes reducing the Dr Konji Sebati, COVID-19 outbreak is everyone’s CEO of IPASA responsibility and requires solidarity, collaboration and innovative efforts from various stakeholders. IPASA has been working closely with the Ministry of Health, BUSA, and B4SA during these past few months, has contributed funds to the Solidarity Fund and donated medicines and flu vaccines. Some of our member company CEOs have also volunteered their time to work with the Solidarity Fund Workstreams. “The companies that are part of IPASA are leaders in innovation, research and development of new medicines, diagnostics and devices. The pharmaceutical industry has a critical role to play and is standing up to be counted during this crisis. Now more than ever, we need to work together and with our government to ensure we tackle this virus,” says Dr Konji Sebati, CEO of IPASA. Pharmaceutical companies are making meaningful contributions from a local and global perspective and will continue to do so. IPASA member companies have made the following contributions towards the fight against COVID-19: • more than R14 million to the Solidarity Fund • medicines worth R 1.3 million were donated to the Charlotte Maxeke Johannesburg Academic Hospital • assistance in facilitating the arrival of PPE, volunteer hours and food parcels to 400 companies • R500 000 donated to the Cancer Fund and R150 000 to Rare Disease South Africa. “We still have a long way to go, and we all have a responsibility. Let us continue to work together and ensure that we flatten the curve of COVID-19,” Dr Sebati concludes.
NEWS
Environ supports COVID-19 frontline workers The award-winning South African skin care brand has donated over R1mn worth of skin care products to doctors and nurses at six hospitals in Cape Town and KwaZulu-Natal, to help soothe and restore skin sensitised by long hours of wearing a mask. Environ acknowledges the immense daily assault on skin as a result of the masks that the doctors and nurses are wearing. By gifting them skin care boosters, Environ wanted to show support and care as well as lift morale for healthcare workers who are making daily sacrifices. The donations went to doctors and nurses working at the Hospital of Hope, a special COVID-19 field hospital established at the Cape Town International Convention Centre, as well as to doctors and nurses at various hospitals in the Western Cape and KwaZulu-Natal. At the Hospital of Hope, CTICC, the donations were handed over by Dr Des
Fernandes, Environ’s founder and scientific director, and his sister Val Carstens, Environ’s group chairman, director and CEO. “My overwhelming impression on visiting the Hospital of Hope was the cheerful dedication of the staff to helping our people get through this unusual time,” says Dr Fernandes. Doctors working to treat those affected by the global pandemic have had to make overwhelming sacrifices – many are unable to see their families, for fear of spreading the infection, and many are at high risk of contracting the virus themselves. Added to this is the toll that long hours and gruelling work take on these frontline workers. “We were delighted to meet those who care for us. We hope we make a difference to their skin as much as they make a difference to people’s lives in their care,” adds Carstens.
Frontline workers at Melomed, Mitchells Plain, in the Western Cape, celebrating their gifts from Environ
innovates in complementary healthcare Inzpire Health was established in 2013 by Niel Dass on the backbone of strategy, brand and leadership foresight. Dass’s vision was to share his extensive grassroots knowledge, from being an aspiring, bluecollar factory worker to a successful managing director, with teams from multinational pharmaceutical and health industries. In 2020, Wayne Robinson brought his vast operations, pharmaceutical, regulatory and complementary medicine knowledge to the team. Robinson is an active participant in the purchase, development and promotion of health, pharmaceutical and complementary medicine product brands. Together with Chris Mandos, a
leader in advertising and brand development, they have expanded into the following three tiers of Inzpire Health: 1. Commercial Health 2. Brand Health 3. Regulatory Health. Following a sabbatical to Nepal and reaching Everest base camp, Dass was inspired to develop Inzpire’s Cannabidiol (CBD) product range, Cee Be Do. The range promotes the ability to ‘Cee-more, Be-more and Domore’. The high-quality CBD products are
compliant with the regulations of the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority and manufactured in a GMPlicenced facility. Endeavouring to facilitate the maintenance and promotion of good health, the team recently released Inzpire Gen Immune CDZ. This specialised product contains a unique combination of vitamins C, D and zinc to help combat colds and flu, promoting good health and immunity.For more Inzpired service and product information, visit www.inzpire.co.za or www.ceebedo.co.za
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
7
NEWS
Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients launches new digital campaign Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients brand ambassador, Domitila Barros
Cosmetic Ingredients, a division of Symrise, is presenting its expertise and competence with a modern branding campaign that communicates changing beauty ideals in a compelling way. “Beauty today is more diverse than ever,” says Dr Daniel Ibarra, vice president global marketing Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients. “The focus has shifted to encompass character and values, individuality and a sense of selfworth. Beauty shows so many facets. For us it means feeling comfortable in one’s own skin.” The concepts and product solutions developed by Cosmetic Ingredients are designed to meet this contemporary, forward-thinking concept of beauty. Ibarra comments: “We take a holistic approach to the concept of beauty and we unite the best of nature, science and technology, harnessing the results to develop truly outstanding solutions for beauty and personal care.” The division’s new visual identity presents this philosophy in a creative and highly recognisable way. The concept reflects the expertise, identity, convictions and values of Cosmetic Ingredients: protecting biodiversity, respect, diversity and tolerance, integrity, and a sustainable lifestyle and business model.
8
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
All of these values are also reflected in the division’s choice of its brand ambassador – Domitila Barros, who was born in Brazil. Barros is an activist, entrepreneur and model. As an authentic personality with a deeply credible narrative, she stands for the values and the vision of Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients and gives the division an instantly recognizable face. Originally, Cosmetic Ingredients wanted to present the campaign at incosmetics Global in Barcelona. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the 2020 trade show has been cancelled so Symrise launched the new campaign online, on 1 July. Instagram will serve as one key channel where Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients has set up a dedicated account. This platform is being used to present the division’s singular expertise, products and services, current beauty trends, events and a glimpse behind the scenes. It also allows followers to engage with the people, spirit, and culture of this successful division. In addition to the division’s LinkedIn showcase page that focuses on B2B, Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients is using Instagram to address consumers openly for the first time. Domitila Barros will also act as a key influencer for Cosmetic Ingredients and will share the division’s message with her Instagram fanbase of more than 80k followers. The new campaign will run in online, in traditional print adverts, on social media (Instagram and LinkedIn), on the Symrise website.
Sabinsa earns Non-GMO Project verification Eleven of the company’s key ingredients have been NonGMO Project verified, adding to the value offered to end-users. “Providing health conscious consumers with herbal, probiotic and digestive enzymes products that support their preference for Non-GMO ingredients can be challenging, so going this extra step in transparency is one way we can support our manufacturing and brand owner partners, retailers and their customers,” says Shaheen Majeed, Sabinsa’s president worldwide. “The credibility the Non-GMO Project seal brings is an important addition to demonstrating our integrity.” The Non-GMO Project is North America’s leading independent third-party verification for products that are produced according to best practices in avoiding genetically modified organisms (GMO). Products bearing this seal have gone through a comprehensive evaluation process. Sabinsa’s key ingredients earning the Non-GMO Project certification include: • Boswellin Super Boswellia (Boswellia serrata) extract • Curcumin C3 Complex Turmeric (Curcuma longa) extract • Shagandha Root Extract 2.5% USP (Withania somnifera) • Livinol Kokum (Garcinia indica) extract • Saberry Amla (Emblica officinalis) extract • Cococin Coconut (Cocos nucifera) water solids • BioPerine Black Pepper (Piper nigrum) extract • LactoSpore Bacillus coagulans MTCC 5856 Probiotic in three grades, including 6B, 15B and 100B • DigeZyme proprietary, versatile multi enzyme complex. “The Non-GMO project applauds Sabinsa’s commitment to transparency in the marketplace, providing consumers with the non-GMO choices. With numerous verified products available, Sabinsa is a valuable part of our non-GMO future,” comments Hans Eisenbeis, director of marketing and communications of the Non-GMO Project.
1. A celebration of the ocean
Ocean di Gioia, a feminine fragrance by Giorgio Armani, pays homage to the free, invigorating and multi-faceted blue expanse of the ocean. It starts with a fresh splash of energy with a juicy and crispy duo of pear and citrus. At the heart, a crystalline and sophisticated floral bouquet of water jasmine, lily of the valley and rose create modern, invigorating salty-aquatic sensations. The vibrant and wrapping trail of addictive woody notes of santal and musks add structure for a comfortable sillage. With curved lines inspired by forms of nature, the pure and organic bottle design is a modern embodiment of Giorgio Armani’s vision of essential elegance. It references the search for contemporary and authentic femininity, which inspires him.
On the Street New products on our radar 1
2
2. Gentle and cleansing micellar waters
New from the Cape Town Toiletry Company, the Azana Spa range of gentle micellar waters assist in boosting skin radiance. The gentle, multipurpose three-in-one skin care products cleanse, tone and remove makeup – and they don’t require water to rinse off! The range includes three variants formulated with vegetable glycerine to leave skin feeling moisturised. Rosehip micellar water is enriched with rosehip extract to cleanse, soften and leave a radiant glow. Rosehip is an ideal cleansing oil for oily skin and contains retinoids, which may help reduce the appearance of acne. Aloe vera and cucumber is infused with soothing aloe vera and cucumber extract to leave skin looking cleansed and refreshed. The coconut and hyaluronic acid variant is enriched with coconut extract for hydration and radiance as well as hyaluronic acid.
3. Keep little skin’s healthy and happy Providing the building blocks to great skin, optiphi’s
new Elements baby and kids range has been specifically
3
formulated to strengthen and support young skin. According to the brand, the skin of babies and young children is 20% to 30% thinner than that of adults and is much less resilient. It also needs specific actives to support, protect and gently nourish delicate skin. Young skin is more susceptible to environmental stressors and hydration issues and needs protection and supplementary hydration to prevent skin concerns like eczema and extreme dryness. The Elements Baby and Kids range consist of five products: Complete Gentle Wash – a soap-free hair and body wash; Honey Bum Balm; Nurture and Nourish Lotion; Slumber and Soothe Massage Oil; and a SPF 50 Skin Shield Protection product.
4. Reveal your best skin yet
Avon Anew Skin Reset Plumping Shots, powered with Protinol, promise to revitalise skin by naturally restoring collagen I and III to a perfect balance. Protinol is a patented breakthrough
4
formula discovered by Avon. Independent scientific tests have confirmed that it helps to rebuild and simulate the perfect balance of collagen. The findings were authenticated in a test conducted in a controlled laboratory environment where these never seen results were observed and validated. Packaged in individual glass vials, the potent plumping shots are indicated for use over seven days. Since inception, driving innovation has always been the heart of Avon’s business. The company is delighted to have once again developed another industryleading innovation that will give millions of women a seven-day transformation for their best skin in years.
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
9
2020/21 P&C Review and Symrise
r o P d u w ct e N Competition
P&C Review and Symrise are unveiling a re-energised New Product Competition that is relevant to all players in the South African cosmetics industry. The 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition will now be judged according to the following market segments: • Mass/Masstige • Prestige • Privé Label The entries scoring the highest in each of the three segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.
Who is eligible to enter: • Local and international personal care, hair care, skin care, beauty and cosmetics brands, whose products are available in South Africa. • Brand owners, private label or house brands, manufacturers, retailers or distributors who have launched new products between 1 January 2019 and May 2021. All entries will receive confidential reports with extensive feedback from our panel of expert judges, who collectively hold over 100 years’ experience in their respective fields. Each product/range entered into the 2020/21 New Product Competition will be judged on the following criteria:
Entries are now open and will close on 1 June 2021. For more information or to enter, contact Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review on 071 359 4519 or send an email to Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za.
• Formulation design • Regulatory compliance • Packaging • Marketing incorporating social media and digital campaigns.
What’s on in 2020
DIARY
RE V IE W
ood f
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
SOUTH AFRICAN
2020 SUBSCRIPTION FORM Please complete in block letters, select your subscription option, and return this form, along with your payment to: NEW MEDIA, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Email: felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za
SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS (please tick) 1 YEAR Food Review Pharmaceutical
Cosmetic Review
Food Review + Pharmaceutical
Cosmetic Review
2 YEAR
R588
R905
R588 R1066
R905 R1620
Full Name:........................................................................................... Designation: ........................................................................................ Company: ........................................................................................... Postal Address:................................................................................... .................................................................Code:................................. Country: .............................................................................................. Tel: (
)....................................... Fax: (
) ..................................
E-mail:................................................................................................. Main activity of company:................................................................... Approximate number of employees: .................................................. VAT No: ............................................................................................... ❑ I would like to receive the newsletters and feature announcements via email and may be added to the mailing lists. Signature:............................................................................................
Please select your preferred method of payment:
❑
Direct Deposit (Complete and email this form to: felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za
Payee:
Bank:
Acc No:
New Media Publishing (Pty) Ltd .
Nedbank Seapoint
1069321540
Branch Code: 10-69-09-00
❑
Credit Card (Mastercard & Visa only) Name of card: ............................................................................. Expiry Date: ................................................................................ Card Number: ............................................................................. CVC Number............................................................................... Date: ........................................................................................... Signature:....................................................................................
❑
TAX INVOICE REQUIRED Note: The above prices are applicable to South Africa only. International rates available on request.
12
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
September
AMA Golf Day CONFIRMED
16 September The Country Club, Woodmead www.aerosol.co.za
Beauty Düsseldorf NEW DATE
18 to 20 September Messe Düsseldorf, Germany www.beauty-duesseldorf.com
NYSCC Suppliers’ Day NEW DATE
30 September to 1 October Javits Center, New York, USA nyscc.org/suppliers-day
October
in-cosmetics Global 2020 CANCELLED
6 to 8 October
Fira di Barcelona, Spain www.in-cosmetics.com/global
Cosmetista Expo North & West Africa 17 to 20 October
OFEC, Casablanca, Morocco www.cosmetistaexpo.com/en
31st IFSCC Congress 2020 20 to 23 October
Yokohama, Japan www.ifscc2020.com
November
in-cosmetics Asia 3 to 5 November 2020
BITEC, Bangkok, Thailand asia.in-cosmetics.com
We bring colour into view! Compact capacitive level switches with 360° custom-colour status display
256 colours Individually selectable: Measurement in progress Sensor switching Process malfunction
15 cm
Compact design
Hygienic adapter system
Adjustment via smartphone
R2 870.00 VEGAPOINT 21 G½"
www.vega.com/vegapoint
COMPANY FOCUS
Days 2020 – we are here for you! Created and inspired by principles that the Marchesini Group has always believed in – X Days focus on the extraordinary power of sharing knowledge in a time when personal contact, trade shows and international travel are limited.
"The Axoblock 160 is quick and easy to setup in less than four hours, making it ready to use in less than a day and easy to install anywhere in the world"
N
ow, more than ever, the industry needs extraordinary events to remain connected. In May, the Marchesini Group, represented locally by MGSA Projects, would have connected with its customers at Interpack. But the trade show was postponed due to COVID-19. The group was planning to showcase new technologies to package pharmaceutical and cosmetics products; instead it decided to do something extraordinary to support its customers without putting anyone’s health at risk. The result is X Days – a sequence of exclusive online events broadcast from a specially-created space.
14
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
All you have to do is register to get your front row seat. Just like a live Marchesini Group event, the X Days feature important discussions centred on the company’s new brand positioning, its new website and the launch of industrial technologies that are set to impact the global packaging industry. The X Days platform also features exclusive content available to anyone who has registered for a particular event, and a live chat service to answer all your questions in real time.
COSMETIC PACKAGING IN FOCUS Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review attended an X Days event on 7 July to find out more about this webinar series from Marchesini. X Day 3 centred on filling and capping in the cosmetics industry, highlighting the Axoblock 160. This machine redefines the standards of cosmetic packaging thanks to its countless strengths. Its innovative cGMP and FDA compliant monoblock design, solid mechanics and the
THE LATEST NEWS AT MGSA PROJECTS In South Africa, MGSA Projects is the appointed agent and local Marchesini technical service provider. Owned and managed by Myles Davis, MGSA Projects employs two Marchesini-trained technicians, Lukas Appel and Jaco Jones, who recently joined the team. Appel and Jones have more than 15 years’ combined experience in working on Marchesini machines. “We strive for the ultimate service experience and provide our customers with exceptional support,” says Davis. “Our admin manager, Robyn Thomas, who joined the company over a year ago, is also instrumental in upholding our ethos of excellent customer service and support.” Over the past two years, MGSA Projects has completed various installations at South African pharma manufacturing and life sciences facilities, including an effervescents line, an eye drop line and an aseptic line for vials. MGSA Projects is based at Gateway Industrial Park in Jet Park, Boksburg, Gauteng. The company operates out of two units, which include a showroom, administrative office and factory for spare parts, as well as a site for the technicians. Although the market is tough, the company is staying strong. MGSA Projects has some great ideas in the pipeline to meet local market demands and will continue to innovate to meet the needs of the South African cosmetics and pharma industries.
COMPANY FOCUS
SEE MORE
The Axoblock 160 is a flexible cosmetic packaging monoblock system
IoT ready electronics optimise the production process, providing elevated reliability and low energy consumption even at high operating speeds. The Axoblock 160 is suitable for creams and liquids and unstable or stable containers. Frederica del Santo, global sales at Marchesini, presented this novel technology during X Day 3, highlighting that the machine’s mechanical cams have been replaced with electronic servo motors for production efficiency and a reduced carbon footprint. According to Del Santo, the Axoblock 160 is quick and easy to setup in less than four hours, making it ready to use in less than a day and easy to install anywhere in the world. Flexibility is also a key quality of this machine; it offers 100% accurate dosing and can fill up to two different products into the same bottle. The Axoblock 160 is an Axomatic technology, which forms part of the Marchesini Group Beauty. The division designs and produces a wide range of packaging machines and lines for the cosmetics industry. The Marchesini
Group Beauty includes the Groupowned brands Axomatic, Dumek and V2 engineering – all of which are historical names in the Italian cosmetic packaging sector.
AN EXTRAORDINARY COMPANY When the X Days launched on 4 June, Pietro Cassani, Marchesini Group’s CEO, introduced the new brand positioning represented by the X of ‘extraordinary’. A word rich in meaning – this is the new symbol of the group, which is renowned for its originality and has always had the ability to think outside the box. The second guest was Valentina Marchesini, marketing director of Marchesini Group. Valentina explained the additional features of this strategic campaign and offered a world preview of the group’s new website, which has been completely redesigned. The new site is more user-friendly for customers and even more appealing for anyone wanting to browse it. The first online show also featured machines that should have been showcased at Interpack, such as the new MA 260 cartoner for vials. This
Did you know? The live X Days are broadcast in English, Spanish and Russian. The next event, X Day 5 is scheduled for 10 September and will focus on high performance solutions for labelling ampoules and vials. Visit xdays.marchesini.com to register for this event.
incredibly versatile machine, alongside its sister models, has contributed to extending the Marchesini name across the globe. X Day 2 focused on aseptic technologies, which have become even more important during the global COVID-19 pandemic as major pharma manufacturers are gearing up to package millions of vaccines. •
MGSA Projects – www.mgsaprojects.co.za Marchesini Group – www.marchesini.com Marchesini Group Beauty – beauty.marchesini.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
15
PROCESS & MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY
Sucrose esters –
the multifunctional, coldprocessable emulsifier With Sisterna SP70-C, an HLB 15 sucrose stearate in powder form, formulators can design a cold process o/w emulsion. This article from Sisterna zooms in on the possibilities of this production method and explains the crucial additional benefits of sucrose esters. These advantages combined with a cold processing method result in excellent formulations that meet the sustainability and clean beauty needs of consumers.
T
he most common way to make an o/w emulsion is using a hot production method. The pros of this type of production technique is that the heating energy eases the emulsification step. Another argument is that the heat could kill all the microorganisms. Of course, you have your solid ingredients which require heating. But if you can work around using solid ingredients, there are many benefits to making a cold process emulsion. It’s a much easier process as it’s safer to prepare and more economical than heated emulsions. The reduced energy consumption makes a cold manufacturing process more environmentally friendly and it doesn’t present any limitations in terms of the temperature sensitivity of ingredients.
COLD EMULSIFICATION POSSIBILITIES Sisterna SP70-C is an HLB 15 powder-grade emulsifier, which makes it quite unusual for use in a cold process. However, it’s easily colddispersible in the oil phase. A basic formulation with Sisterna SP70-C is presented in Table 1 with comparisons between an oil phase of 20% up to 60% and the effects on the oil droplet size and viscosity. Two common oils are also compared: 1. sunflower oil, which is a more polar vegetable oil 2. isopropyl myristate (IPM), which is a medium polarity ester oil.
16
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Figure 1: Oil concentration and the effect on the emulsion viscosity
OIL CONCENTRATION AND DROPLET SIZE High shear is enough to produce standard emulsions with Sisterna SP70-C. There are no particles visible and it gives droplet sizes between 1μm and 10μm, small enough to obtain a stable emulsion while having an oil phase of 20% to 60%. With a 60% oil dosage, 3% of Sisterna SP70-C works well. At lower oil levels of 20% to 30%, it’s possible to reduce the dosage to 2%.
OIL CONCENTRATION AND VISCOSITY In order to select the right viscosity of the formulation, it’s important to note that the higher the oil phase (internal phase), the more viscous the product becomes. There is a slight difference between the two oils used, as IPM gives a slightly higher viscosity (see Figure 1). Another key consideration is that it’s not only the oil concentration that can influence the
viscosity, but also the selected hydrocolloid, which can have a big impact. Using a viscosityincreasing hydrocolloid, such as sclerotium gum, gives a good viscosity build-up as well as stability to the emulsion.
THE BENEFITS OF SUCROSE ESTERS Although we’ve already mentioned the reason why cold emulsification is so interesting, there are more objectives why it should be done specifically with sucrose esters. The ability to combine the benefits of Sisterna SP70-C with this manufacturing technique gives the formulator an opportunity to design products in line with the current natural, clean beauty and responsible cosmetics trends. The result is an innovative processing technique that is ideal for creating simple and effective natural formulations. Sisterna SP70-C is a non-ionic and PEGfree/ethylene-oxide-free emulsifier, which is
PROCESS & MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY Figure 3: Skin moisturisation capacity of Sisterna SP70-C versus a placebo formulation
Figure 2: HET-CAM test result of a 10% solution of Sisterna SP70-C
very mild on skin (see Figure 2). It is suitable for use in cosmetics designed for sensitive skin, or for children and babies. It even has irritation-reducing capabilities when dosed with other (anionic) surfactants/emulsifiers that are usually more irritating, making the total formulation milder on skin. The most well-known benefit of sucrose esters is the skin feel. It gives a very soft touch when applied on skin and has a velvet-like after-feel. This skin feel is largely independent of the oil phase. Even when you dose a very greasy oil, the greasiness will be eliminated by the use of sucrose esters.
CERTIFIED NATURAL AND FOOD-GRADE Skin moisturisation is one of the most important aspects of personal care products. Figure 3 shows that sucrose esters increase the moisture level of the skin, making them more than just an emulsifier. It shows the comparison in skin hydration of a basic emulsion made with only Steareth-2 and Steareth-21 (placebo formula), and the same emulsion to which 2.5% of Sisterna SP70-C is added. Sucrose esters are also food-grade ingredients, they don’t have any taste or odour and do not cause any colour deformation in production. Being edible is usually important for formulators as it indicates a product is very Table 1: Basic formulation for cold emulsification Phase
Ingredient
% w/w
1
Aqua Glycerine Carrageenan Xanthan Gum Preservative
Ad 100 4.00 0.30 0.30 0.10
2
SISTERNA SP70-C Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil or Isopropyl Myristate
3.00 20.00 – 60.00
Production method: Mix the water phase (1). Disperse Sisterna SP70-C into the oil phase (adding it to the oil phase avoids air entrapment) and mix it (2). Add (2) to (1) while homogenising under high shear, using e.g. Ultra Turrax 5000 rpm
Table 2: Lagom lotion Sweden (CE.003) Phase 1
2
3
Ingredient
INCI
% w/w
Glycerine
Glycerin
Genuvisco CG131
Carrageenan
0.30
Keltrol CG-SFT
Xanthan Gum
0.30
Deionised water
Aqua
Nipaguard SCE
Sorbitan Caprylate, Propanediol, Benzoic Acid
Lipex PreAct
Canola Oil
AvenaPlex
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
1.00
Sisterna SP70-C
Sucrose Stearate
3.00
Pura
Parfum
0.30
5.00
48.80 1.30 40.00
This formulation guide features an example of an eco-friendly, simple and effective formulation designed with just 11 INCI names
safe to use. Sucrose esters are also certified by some of the most respected certification bodies in Europe and the United States, including Ecocert, COSMOS and the NPA. In addition to its naturality, Sisterna SP70-C is readily biodegradable.
LESS IS MORE IN CLEAN BEAUTY It is well-known that consumers are increasingly focused on the naturality of a formulation, in addition to their interest in a product’s biodegradability and the way in which it’s produced or manufactured. Consumers are more aware of ingredients and know that a long INCI list on a product’s packaging no longer means the product is better. This is the ethos of clean beauty, where less is more, conveyed in a simple INCI list that consists of safe and effective ingredients. Because of the multifunctional benefits of sucrose esters, like the mildness, skin moisturisation and skin feel, combined with cold processability, naturalness and being readily biodegradable, formulators can design very effective and responsible formulations with a short INCI list. You do not need any extra ingredients to make a formulation milder, improve moisturisation or adjust the skin feel.
Did you know? Sisterna SP70-C shows selective antimicrobial properties. It actively targets microorganisms that cause nappy rash, athletes’ foot and odour formation, making the emulsifier an ideal active ingredient for use in products designed to address these concerns. Furthermore, Sisterna SP70-C does not interfere with the skin flora. A co-emulsifier is not needed as it can be used as a single emulsifier. The only things that are needed, along with water and sucrose esters, are an oil of your choice, a stabilising system, preservative and an active ingredient. A formulation such as this is featured in Table 2. This Lagom lotion Sweden formulation goes back to the basics, not only keeping it simple and effective but also considering the environment and maintaining that less is definitely more. Contact Danlink Ingredients, the exclusive South African distributor for Sisterna, for more information, technical notes and guide formulations on sucrose esters. •
Sisterna – www.sisterna.com Danlink Ingredients – www.danlink.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
17
PROCESS & MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY
Industry experts collaborate on high-capacity containment sieving solution To provide a customised solution for a leading pharmaceutical company, a hygienic and efficient pharmaceutical sieve from Russell Finex was combined with a high containment isolator from engineering house PSL.
A
s a leading international manufacturer for the pharmaceutical, biopharma, and laboratory industries, Powder Systems Limited (PSL) has vast experience designing and engineering advanced containment processes. With a reputation for providing solutions to suit the needs of customers, this company also recognises the expertise of other industrial manufacturers, working alongside them to provide custom, highquality equipment to meet the specific requirements of these industries. In this instance, PSL approached Russell Finex and combined its expertise with this leading manufacturer of industrial sieving
Did you know? Established in 1934, Russell Finex has a wealth of experience in supplying engineering houses and OEMs with customised sieving and filtration equipment. The company is represented locally by Pakmax. With its longevity and excellent reputation, Russell Finex is seen as one of the top three global market leaders, supporting a variety of industries from pharmaceutical, chemical, food and beverage, and coatings, to metal powders and ceramics.
COMBINING EXPERTISE WITH INNOVATION
SEE MORE
The Russell Compact Sieve
PSL’s isolator has a half-body suit, which allows unrestricted access to the interior of the chamber
18
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
and separation technology, to provide a totally contained sieving solution for a leading pharmaceutical company. As a supplier with a customer base that includes companies such as Pfizer and GSK, Russell Finex’s reputation for manufacturing highend pharmaceutical screeners was key to its selection for cooperation by PSL. Sylvain Querol, PSL’s tendering manager for Europe, says: “The pharmaceutical industry is one that requires the most accurate, reliable and hygienic equipment, and Russell Finex’s ability to combine these requirements with a design customised to our technology was key for the end user.”
A contained, efficient screening solution was required to enable the customer to manufacture hazardous compounds in line with cGMP standards. The Russell Compact Sieve, a high-capacity check screener, was suggested and combined with PSL’s own high-containment isolator to provide a unique solution. This device enabled the pharmaceutical company to safely sieve hazardous materials, processing compounds with an occupational exposure limit (OEL) of less than 1.0µg/m³. This met the needs of the customer whose material was being processed as part of the highhazard tablet facility project. PSL’s isolator has a half-body suit, which allows unrestricted access to the interior of the chamber, whilst ensuring the operator remains safely clear of direct contact with the product. The Russell Compact Sieve was the perfect addition to fit into this application. Available in a variety of sizes and options, every machine can be tailored to suit any company’s exact requirements. Its compact design also meant that it was
PROCESS & MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY
well-suited to being installed within a highcontainment isolator.
FEATURES AND BENEFITS OF THE RUSSELL COMPACT SIEVE
A VERSATILE AND HYGIENIC UNIT Russell Finex was able to engineer a solution to meet these unique specifications, without any effect on the sieve’s performance, placing the sieve monitor on the outside of the isolator to minimise explosion risk.
"As a provider of engineering solutions, we must be able to rely on the expertise of suppliers to provide an option that meets our demands"
• Improve product purity – eliminate oversized material from your powders and liquids. • Increase production – these vibratory screeners achieve a higher throughput per unit mesh area compared to conventional vibrating screens. • Reduce down-time – they can be easily stripped down and cleaned without tools. • Eliminate dust and fumes – enclosed sanitary screening means total containment. • Fits into smaller spaces – these vibrating screens can fit easily into existing installations and areas of limited headroom. • Lowers noise levels – a solid rubber suspension gives the machine a quiet operation, typically as low as 70dBA.
Christian Parker, PSL’s head of engineering, comments: “We were very pleased with the combination of these unique requirements. As a provider of engineering solutions, we must be able to rely on the expertise of suppliers to provide an option that meets our demands, which is the case with the Russell Compact Sieve.” With its easy-clean design and stainless steel contact parts, the Russell Compact Sieve unit makes for an incredibly hygienic sieve. Not only can the mesh screen be accessed and cleaned, but the inclusion of a magnetic separator reduces the risk and build-up of ferrous contamination. To achieve total containment, which was necessary with this particular design, the oversize outlet can be removed, making the unit versatile as well as guaranteeing quality and purity of product. •
Pakmax – www.pakmax.co.za Russell Finex – www.russellfinex.com
Global Sieving & Filtration Specialists Safeguard the Quality of your Pharmaceutical Products Russell Compact Sieve®
Russell Compact Airlock Sieve™
Key Benefits: • Safeguards product quality • Increases screening capacity • Improves health and safety of your operators
Validated High Containment Systems: ATEX APPROVED Certified for use in zones 20, 21, 22, 0, 1 and 2
Incorporating a patented pneumatic clamping system providing validatable OEL 5 containment (less than 1µg/m3).
What makes us specialists..? Call us on: +44 (0) 20 8818 2000
Customized solutions - Applying innovation to meet your requirements Comprehensive customer service - Technical support & global stocking Specialized testing facilities - Trial your products for total peace of mind
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
19
PROCESS & MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY
Collaborative innovation a must for biotech products
To support entrepreneurs in the field of biotechnology, the BioPark@ Gauteng – a business incubator that forms part of The Innovation Hub – has been established to create an ecosystem for collaborative innovation. The result is a support system and infrastructure for biotech products, which have the potential to change SA’s healthcare landscape. By Dr Chamunorwa Togo
I
t is no secret that the process of developing new biotechnologies that involve human health and safety can be an arduous task, which takes a long time to commercialise. The timeframes can stretch anything from four to 20 years to develop a product, which ultimately holds critical and immense benefits for both the economy and the population. The biotechnology development process can be accelerated if financing is more readily available. Yet, the high risk factor and high capital requirement even at the
early stage of development keep private investors from injecting their funds into projects that could potentially change the trajectory of a country. One of the most significant barriers to entry for entrepreneurs in the biotechnology field in South Africa is the issue of infrastructure. Investors are very reluctant to provide immovable infrastructure and entrepreneurs often do not have the equipment or space to bring their projects to fruition. Through initiatives such as the BioPark@Gauteng, a business incubator at The Innovation Hub, the risks around start-up projects are minimised through the provision of fixed assets, such as buildings. The Innovation Hub helps in reducing risk by affording the entrepreneurs access to funding opportunities to ensure their start-ups are attractive to larger investors. Most of the economically prosperous countries of today rely on and use biotechnology as economic leverage. Although it may take longer to yield results owing to ongoing testing, ultimately it yields
"The biotechnology development process can be accelerated if financing is more readily available" 20
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
high results. However, in the biotechnology ecosystem, because it is a high-risk environment, you hardly find investors who have got that high-risk appetite, bar a few who have monopolised the sector.
A COLLABORATIVE ECOSYSTEM The BioPark@Gauteng is now in its third phase of development, which will focus on larger-scale manufacturing in the local pharmaceutical industry. It plays a critical role in creating an ecosystem for supporting technologies that have the potential to change the health landscape of South Africa, yet do not necessarily have the means to reach commercial production independently. Through these initiatives and an ecosystem created in collaboration with educational and research institutes, these new entrants and entrepreneurs can access technical assistance and are assisted with raising funds for the equipment needed to start manufacturing in the biotechnology sector. Another critical aspect of having a platform like The Innovation Hub where start-ups or entrepreneurs can come together is that they start to share ideas and help one another. This fosters a culture that ignites more innovation while helping to accelerate the entrepreneurial journey, especially when it comes to overcoming hurdles. The benefits of providing such innovation-enabling spaces have been seen at The Innovation Hub’s BioPark. Ideas are exchanged and new products are developed or improved,
PROCESS & MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY
while the procurement for manufacturing also becomes less tedious and costly as a result of economies of scale.
HEALTHY COMPETITION SUPPORTS PROGRESS One might be tempted to ask about competition amongst entrepreneurs within such an ecosystem. This is very limited and, in line with the spirit of developing together, the entrepreneurs help one another, knowing that the market is too big and that the entrepreneurship jungle cannot be conquered by loners. The testimonies of success from companies that work together have helped to foster a culture of collaborative innovation. Furthermore, the product, technology and market diversity have helped to ease the fear of progress-stifling through competition. Staff at the BioPark
Did you know? The BioPark business incubator provides business development support to start-ups in the health (biopharmaceuticals, medical devices and diagnostics, indigenous knowledgebased nutraceuticals, cosmeceuticals and cosmetics), agriculture (agro-/ food-processing, bioprocessing and smart agriculture), and industrial biotechnology sectors. The support is provided in collaboration with the Gauteng Department of Agriculture and Rural Development and eGoliBio Life Science Incubator.
generally inculcates values such as the success of one should not be measured by how many are inferior to him or her, but by how many you have helped to be more similar or superior to yourself. However, when one looks at the broader innovation ecosystem, there are some issues that need attention to ensure that entrepreneurship development in biotechnology is well-oiled. Noncoherence and a silo approach to supporting
entrepreneurs sometimes lead to a duplication of efforts. This results in some entrepreneurs taking advantage of the system; serial grant fundraisers use funding from multiple sources to repeatedly support one exhausted milestone. If stakeholders are well-coordinated and systems are in place to monitor progress of funded milestones, it can help in increasing the success rate of commercialising biotechnologies. •
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Dr Chamunorwa Togo is the general manager: bio-economy at The Innovation Hub. He has extensive research experience and a strong background in biotechnology and general life sciences. Dr Togo’s areas of interest include bridging the gap between the laboratory and market, and the commercialisation of indigenous knowledge- based products.
The Innovation Hub – www.theinnovationhub.com
2020/2021
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
21
INDUSTRY TALK
Nielsen explores ‘the new shopper normal’ The nature of South African shopping trips has shifted during the COVID-19 lockdown from an initial focus on bulk, stock-up shopping to everyday needs shopping, which is up a significant 10 points from pre-COVID-19 levels, both online and offline. This data stems from a new study called ‘the new shopper normal’, which Nielsen conducted at the end of May.
N
ielsen South Africa, consumer insights director, Kim Reddy says the lockdown has led to key changes in the channels that South Africans shop at and the product categories they purchase. “Before COVID-19, bulk shopping accounted for 55% of shopping trips. We know this continued through the first few weeks of the lockdown as people bought products that had a longer shelf-life in bulk and looked for items they could store. As a result, many consumers had to switch to cheaper brands to balance their increased basket sizes with their available funds,” she explains. However, as the situation developed, there was a distinct increase in shopping for everyday needs and meal preparation, both in offline and online shopping. By the end of May, close to the implementation of Level 3 of the lockdown, 74% of South African shoppers said they needed the items they purchased right away versus 26% of shoppers who purchased to stock for the future.
IN AND OUT SHOPPING During this period, there has also been an increase in the number of shopping channels visited with higher spend per trip. The number of store types visited increased towards the end of May 2020, with an average of 7.5 stores visited and more shoppers including online retailers in their repertoire versus pre-COVID-19. Pharmacy, convenience (forecourt/ garage shops) and online shopping all saw significant increases (pre-COVID-19 versus last few weeks of May). This was shoppers focused on ensuring their health needs were taken care of and looked to convenient, quick ‘in and out shopping trips’ for their daily needs or chose to stay at home entirely and engaged in online shopping trips.
22
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
"74% of South African shoppers said they needed the items they purchased right away" ONLINE SAFETY
THE FUTURE OF THE
Many consumers have also deepened their INSULAR CONSUMER relationship with online shopping, with 24% Looking to the future, Reddy says that the more shoppers saying, “they used COVID-19 pandemic has given rise to this channel in the last week” a far more self-sufficient South and 58% of shoppers visiting African shopper. a new online store in the “As South Africans settled same period. The main into and accepted the new reasons for an increase normal of a lockdown lifestyle, in online shopping were issues like quarantine living people not wanting to risk and concerns around exposing going outside and coming themselves to potential health into contact with other people. risks have created a far more Online shoppers were also insular consumer. This has Kim Reddy of Nielsen more likely to shop around given resulted in them embracing South Africa says the pandemic has given they could do so from the safety a homebound lifestyle that rise to a far more selfsufficient South of their home and once they were focuses on home-based meal African shopper online, they spent more than when preparation and cooking. shopping offline. “As more South Africans However, barriers to online shopping like return to work, we expect this trend to availability, range and delivery were the continue, as shoppers seek out convenient main drivers for shoppers going offline, options like ready-to-eat meals, meal kits, DIY where store choice was mainly driven by personal care etc., that still meet their needs well-established relationships with brick for health and safety,” Reddy concludes. • and mortar stores. For example, 64% said they prefer shopping in a real store, and 32% stated they prefer the familiarity of their Nielsen South Africa – www.nielsen.com/za/en favourite store.
SUSTAINABLE OILS & BUTTERS
Socio-sustainability Socio-sustainability is focused on improving living standards by choosing fairer supply chains Many Brazilian families are dependent on forest products, see our Brazilian range In India, fruits are sourced from forest people, providing an income, see our Indian butter range
Clean and conscious beauty Vegetable oils and butters fit well in clean and conscious beauty Safe Minimal - minimally processed, lot of benefits from one ingredients Conscious, sustainable choices
Exclusive Agents in South Africa
IMCD SA T: 011 2932000 E:ana.dacosta@imcdsa.co.za https://www.imcdgroup.com/en/business-groups/personal-care
HAIR CARE
Argan nuts and oil
Driven to develop and promote sustainable ingredients Powered by nature and offering solutions that respect the earth and environment, Jan Dekker invests in the development and promotion of sustainable ingredients and technologies. The company is a leading supplier of clean, natural and organic-certified ingredients, ethically sourced from all over the world. 7/20/2020
shutterstock_37371064_0.jpg (4011×2613)
S
ustainability is no longer in trend use of by-products to minimising waste, in personal care – it’s a key driver or taking every opportunity to reduce of the industry and evident its carbon footprint. The company also in all categories, including works hard to ensure that hair care. According to a sustainability is embedded report by New Hope in its working culture, New York which spreading its efforts covered highlights further than the from the European environment. It is Edition of the proud to support 2019 Sustainable a number of social Cosmetics projects around Summit, the world, creating companies are opportunities for expected to source people in developing natural ingredients regions and in a manner that encouraging awareness protects both biodiversity and understanding of and the workers harvesting the socio-economic issues. The Argan tree ingredients. These projects translate A diverse range of materials can now into beautiful marketing messages for be sourced sustainably, including those hair and personal care brands which used in hair and skin care applications. resonate with consumers. Shea nuts, food crops, seaweed, biopolymer feedstock and packaging NATURAL AND ORGANIC OILS waste are examples of recent additions Natural, sustainable and eco-friendly https://intranet-backend.imcdgroup.com/system/files/2016-11/shutterstock_37371064_0.jpg 1/1 to the sustainable sourcing category. hair care products are becoming Developments in this area have led increasingly popular with the rise of to a new generation of sustainability the eco-conscious consumer. Market schemes and standards. reports reveal that other niches have Jan Dekker, a private label of IMCD emerged to meet consumer individuality and specialist in vegetable oils and butters, is no stranger to sustainability. The company has been operating in the field for 240 years – whether identifying sources that share its values or intensifying its support for the wider implementation of sustainable ingredients. Jan Dekker fights against the exploitation of resources and strives to play its part in maintaining a balance in the environment, from optimising the
"Traceability and transparency are key parts of the sustainable the supply chain of these products"
24
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
and diversity whether of age, ethnicity, environment and lifestyle. Head and https://intranet-backend.imcdgroup.com/system/files/2017-07/Nut liquid_0.jpg hair wellness are also of great interest, focusing on issues such as hair loss, scalp irritation and general scalp well-being. According to Mintel, more hair care consumers want to reduce waste and be as sustainable as possible, yet they still expect high-quality products and services. Mintel recommends that brands should be mindful of their formulas and formats, embracing sustainability in their hair care products. IMCD offers a portfolio of Jan Dekkerbranded vegetable oils and butters, which are ideal for hair and skin care applications. Organic-certified argan oil – obtained by village women who have formed a community cooperative, collecting, sorting, cracking and producing the oil through cold processing – is very popular in hair care. This oil is rich in tocopherols, polyphenols and unique sterols. Argan oil is also known to assist with skin elasticity and increase epidermal water content while reducing TEWL. Acai oil, obtained from the fruit flesh of acai berry superfruits, is packed with antioxidants to reduce oxidative stress. The oil also has neuroprotective and anti-inflammatory activity, which is why it’s called the superfood for agedefying beauty. Andiroba oil promotes collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts, it has antibacterial and antifungal properties, and is an insect repellent and analgesic. Due to the presence of limonoids, the oil also has anti-inflammatory and antiallergic properties.
HAIR CARE
Did you know? Brazil is a major diversity hotspot with an incredible diversity of plant species. Jan Dekker offers an interesting range of Brazilian butters, which are sustainably sourced from a cooperative in the region. These include Cupuacu butter, which has remarkable hydrating power and is beneficial to very dry skin or scalp, and Murumuru butter, which offers a silicone-like skin feel and provides a soft drytouch feeling. In hair care protects, Murumuru butter gives volume and has frizz control properties.
Buriti oil, with its extremely high content of carotenoids, is sourced from 1/1 the Brazilian keystone species known as the ‘tree of life’. This tree is a major source of food and income to Brazilian people living in the region where the oil is produced. The ripe fruits are collected from the ground after they have fallen naturally. The oil is obtained from the pulp and the peel of the fruit. It is used in anti-ageing creams and after sun care as it increases the firmness and elasticity of the skin. Pracaxi oil, obtained from the nitrogen fixer Pracaxi tree, which is important for forest regeneration and recovery in degraded areas, is used to improve scars and wound healing. It can also be used in hair care products to create hydrophobic layer around the hair fibre. Jan Dekker also offers macadamia, avocado, jojoba, Tsubaki oils in its portfolio.
BUTTERS FOR BEAUTIFUL HAIR AND SKIN Shea butter, an African butter, is a highly respected cosmetic ingredient, with an interesting, biologically active unsaponifiable fraction, having antiinflammatory properties. This product is refined to answer to the strict demands of the cosmetics industry. Shea butter is the result of a cooperation with women communities in northern Ghana, by cutting out middlemen and purchasing the shea butter directly from the rural women. Through the Star Shea initiative, the women are trained in nut selection and shea butter manufacturing, to obtain premium quality shea butter
Village women who collect, sort and produce argan oil through cold processing
A Ghanaian woman sorting shea nuts, as part of the Star Shea initiative
and to increase the yield. By applying a socially sustainable way of purchasing and fair trade, they may increase their revenues, contributing to the financial independence of the women and their living standards. Illipe butter from Borneo is sourced through partnership focused on purely sustainable wild harvesting and empowering farmers in the region. Profits used for training and scholarships for children and to support an orangutan rescue centre. This supply chain has a zero waste focus whereby the pressed cake is used for feed and the nut shells are used to produce charcoal, which in turn is used as compost on rice field soil, reducing rice replanting. Illipe butter is an excellent skin moisturiser.
Traceability and transparency are key parts of the sustainable the supply chain of these products. These sourcing projects are supported with the aim of the continuous improvement of production processes, while sustaining the natural resources. Apart from providing multiple marketing angles, vegetable oils and butters in Jan Dekker’s portfolio inherently contain positive characteristics for socio-economical and ecological sustainability, with the added benefit of the optimal use of valuable natural resources. •
IMCD – www.imcdgroup.com/en Jan Dekker – www.jandekker.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
25
HAIR CARE
Microbiome research promotes a healthy scalp There is a great demand for hair care products that encourage a healthy scalp. Scalposine, a new active ingredient from BASF, is proven to soothe and purify the scalp by decreasing the production of sebum and replenishing beneficial microbiota. We spoke to Cécile Kalem, global marketing active ingredients, BASF Beauty Creations, to find out more about how the biotics gut health phenomenon has rapidly advanced to a category driver in skin and scalp care.
micro-organisms. Consumers are now seeking solutions that help to combat the side effects of our modern world. What are some common scalp concerns and how do they affect beauty and health? CK: It is well-known that just like the skin, the scalp supports several types of microorganisms living in harmony with our scalp cells. However, what is less well-known, is that the accumulation of dust, pollution and sebum changes the physiological parameters of the scalp, especially its microbiota. An unhealthy scalp is often oily and covered with dandruff and can become sensitive. This is evident in itchiness and prickling or even a burning sensation and pain. Ultimately, scalp conditions can also lead to hair loss. Is there untapped potential for
Although biotics and detox rituals are popular tools to support gut health, they have become key trends in the personal care industry
What trends are shaping the hair care market? CK: Both men and women desire healthy hair, and there is growing awareness that a healthy scalp is key to achieving this goal. However, our lifestyles – along with environmental factors – negatively influence scalp health. This has increased the prevalence of hair and scalp concerns worldwide. Stress, for example, can cause sebaceous glands in the hair follicles to produce too much sebum. In turn, excessive production reduces the number of beneficial bacteria. Meanwhile, urban living can cause dust or pollution to form deposits on the scalp and hair fibres which gradually asphyxiate the essential
26
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
hair care products to help promote scalp health? CK: So far, the solutions available on the market have mainly focused on managing dandruff with anti-fungal ingredients rather than purifying the scalp and resetting its microbial system. Yet, the microbiome is gradually coming into focus in the fight against scalp disorders. Products with prebiotic and probiotic effects and those claiming to be microbiome-friendly are about to conquer the hair care market. Consumers generally associate these terms with health, wellness and sustainability – all of which are key drivers of the personal care industry. What are BASF’s latest findings in this field? CK: We recently conducted a metagenomic study to explore the difference between the microbiota of a normal scalp and that of an oily scalp. For the oily scalp, we found that diversity decreases in some species of microbiota. We were also able to identify six
strains of bacteria that have a significant presence in normal scalps and make a major contribution to overall scalp health. With the help of these findings, we developed our new active ingredient Scalposine. How does Scalposine work?
CK: We believe solutions for helping a scalp to recover must be holistic and target oiliness and scalp irritation while rebalancing the microbiota. Scalposine tackles the impact that modern lifestyles can have on the scalp and its microorganisms. It acts like a scalp detox ritual. Detox diets are popular around the world, ranging from total fasting to simpler food choices. The aim is to keep the body healthy by purifying and purging it of toxins and other negative influences. In the same way, Scalposine aims to rid the scalp of grease and rebalance its microbiotic ecosystem. This hair detox works in two ways. Firstly, Scalposine contributes to the reduction of sebum. In vitro trials showed that it effectively reduces the gene expression of 5α-reductase 1 by 77%. This is the enzyme initiating the process of sebum production. A one-month placebo-controlled clinical study confirmed these results. A mask formula containing Scalposine at 1% was proven to significantly reduce sebum by as much as 20% compared to the placebo after one month of application. At the same time, 82% of volunteers reported an immediate soothing Cécile Kalem, global effect on the scalp, while marketing active some of them even saw their ingredients, BASF Beauty Creations flakiness decrease. This is an important outcome, because dandruff is a pressing concern for many adults.
HAIR CARE Figure 1: Photographs illustrating the visible effect of Scalposine at 1% on flake removal after 14 and 28 days of application (Trichoscience Scope)
"Products with prebiotic and probiotic effects and those claiming to be microbiome-friendly are about to conquer the hair care market"
Scalposine can also help consumers to save time and potentially reduce the environmental footprint, because study participants observed that they were able to go for longer periods in their hair washing cycles. In terms of the microbiome, in in vivo tests Scalposine has been proven to reset and rebalance the microbiota ecosystem of the scalp. We compared a mask formula containing our active ingredient to a placebo formulation. After one month of application, this new solution increased the number
Did you know? With Scalposine (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Sarcosine), BASF has developed a holistic approach based on sarcosine, which is a naturallyoccurring amino acid-derivative found in the human body. It is a precursor of glycine, an amino acid essential for building major skin macromolecules such as elastin and collagen.
of species present on the scalp by 36%. At the same time, the study also indicated a prebiotic effect because the active agent was shown to stimulate the growth of advantageous scalp bacteria. To be precise, it supports the recolonisation of the scalp by the six beneficial strains of bacteria which we identified in our previous study. BASF’s Scalposine is available locally from Botanichem, an approved distributor of products in the BASF Care Creations portfolio. •
BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za
www.o6southafrica.com
We've got a sense for Fragrance and Taste
And a o6th sense for what your customers want for both. We keep an eye on changes in customer expectations, while watching global markets in order to anticipate the upcoming fragrance and taste trends. With an extensive and ever growing fragrance and taste offering, we're the preferred partner for what your product should taste or smell like. 011 234 8399 EAST AFRICA: richard@o6southafrica.com SOUTH AFRICA: adam@o6southafrica.com & mcqueen@o6southafrica.com
SMALL PACK DIVISION
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
27
HAIR CARE
The building blocks of healthier hair Products that claim to assist with the repair of damaged hair have continued to lead the hair care market in the first two quarters of 2020. There is a demand for products that can repair the effects of environmental, physical and chemical agents and which improve the condition and manageability of hair.
C
hemyunion, represented locally by Chemgrit Cosmetics, has grouped several of its products together to create a portfolio of ingredients that are useful and effective, both for hair repair and reconstruction. Hair repair products act on the outside of the hair fibre and are used to treat dry, damaged and colour-treated hair. Hair reconstruction products act on the structure of the hair fibre, improving the quality of the cortex to the cuticle and are suitable for use on more severely damaged or chemically treated hair. Chemyunion’s concept provides total care for hair with repair products to address scalp health, shine, frizz and combability; and reconstruction products to improve strength, shine and nourishment.
Figure 1: Hair treated with Sensoveil Soft showed 5.5 times less frizz than the placebo
REPAIRING INGREDIENTS
"Hair treated with Sensoveil Soft showed 5.5 times less frizz than the placebo�
H-Vit Plus, Wavemax and Sensoveil Soft are the ingredients proposed for hair repair. H-Vit Plus is a vegetable complex associated with biotin, panthenol and menthol. It eliminates scalp and hair oil without drying the scalp out. It also repairs scalp balance. Wavemax is a combination of chia polysaccharides and flaxseed that adheres to the hair fibre, forming a resistant and flexible film. It helps with the maintenance of curls,
is long-lasting, prevents frizz and provides protection from humidity. Sensoveil Soft is key to repair and reconstruction. This plant-based oil complex is obtained through proprietary technology and acts as a lipid substitute, forming a biofilm in the hair fibre through intermolecular attraction forces. During testing, Sensoveil Soft significantly improved combability and reduced frizz compared to the values noted before
Chemgrit Cosmetics (Pty) Ltd is a chemical distribution and trading company. We supply chemical raw materials to the cosmetics, skin and personal care industries. Chemgrit Cosmetics offers: - Personalised Service - Outstanding Quality - Reliability - Flexibility www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za | 011 397 4455 info@chemgritsa.co.za | johrinda@chemgritsa.co.za
28
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
HAIR CARE
Figure 2: SEM images showing how Sensoveil Soft influences the hair surface
THE BENEFITS OF SENSOVEIL SOFT • improves the texture of the formulation • improves combability • frizz reduction • film formation without any build-up • repair after discolouration • improved brightness and softness • compliant with vegan claims • alternative for claims without silicones, lanolin, or lanolin derivatives • 100% biodegradable
treatment. Hair treated with Sensoveil Soft showed 5.5 times less frizz than the placebo (see Figure 1). Sensoveil Soft was also shown to influence the surface of the hair. In an evaluation using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), the effect of Sensoveil Soft is evident on the alignment of cuticles and repair after discolouration (see Figure 2). It also offers a film-forming benefit without any build-up.
HAIR RECONSTRUCTION INGREDIENTS Sensoveil Soft together with Seriseal DS is suggested for hair reconstruction. Seriseal DS comprises cationic sericin particles that replenish the protein mass in hair and seal damaged cuticles. The high affinity with keratin keeps the hair fibres aligned and provides a smooth and shiny result. In dyes, it improves colour conditioning and maintenance. It seals the cuticles,
• China-compliant.
restructures the hair cortex, regenerates hair fibre damage and improves strength by up to 13.62%. •
Chemgrit Cosmetics – www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za Chemyunion – www.chemyunion.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
29
HAIR CARE
The mane attraction There is a global movement to embrace naturally curly hair with the universal concept of beauty fast becoming a thing of the past. Evonik offers innovative solutions to meet the demands of consumers based on their specific hair type while respecting their individuality.
C
urls are the new normal in beauty. Globally, the demand has increased significantly for hair care solutions that address the needs of curly hair. According to Google, ‘curls’ has become the term most frequently searched when it comes to hair care, finding the best products for curl styling and avoiding hair straightening. Mintel conducted research in Brazil to understand the different hair types of Brazilians and found that nearly 70% of women have naturally wavy, curly or kinky hair. As for the US, which is considered the number one market for hair care worldwide, nearly eight out of 10 African American consumers wear their hair natural and prefer products made exclusively for their hair type. Among the different curvatures noted in Table 1, consumers with curly hair demand tailor-made solutions based on their curl type. Taking these variations into account, it’s quite clear that consumers are looking for products that fit best with their personal needs.
Scalp care is highly relevant to 4 ABC hair types and textures, as these consumers generally complain that, after washing their hair, it takes more than a day for their scalp to return to completely dry, creating an ideal environment for bacterial growth. Based on this, brands must offer antimicrobial and purifying scalp care systems for a more balanced scalp and healthy hair.
SCALP CARE GAINS MOMENTUM
A SOLUTION IN THREE STEPS
Because their scalp tends to be more sensitive, consumers with curly hair require scalp care solutions as a first step in their hair care ritual. This has seen an increase in ingredient innovations that cross over from face to scalp care.
Evonik has developed a three-step approach to meet the specific needs of curly hair. 1. Transition phase: This is when individuals decide to stop chemical straightening to return to their natural hair texture. For this phase, Evonik offers three formulations, including a purifying cleansing shampoo featuring Varisoft
Did you know? Men are also a key target audience as they lack options to care for curly hair. The most important attributes a men’s hair care product should offer are convenience, making it easy to integrate into one’s daily routine, while providing visible and long-lasting benefits.
30
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Table 1: Curl types and their different needs Curl type
Characteristics
Problems
Desired claims
Wavy 2 ABC
Oily scalp and dry ends
Frizz and split ends can occur
• Purifying shampoos • Damage-repair conditioners • Anti-frizz leave-ins • Lightweight sensory
Curly 3 ABC
Oily scalp and dry ends
Very fragile and thin, hair breaks easily due to the elliptical format
• Conditioning shampoos • Fortifying and moisturising • Curl definition • Volume control and enhancing
Kinky 4 ABC
Sensitive scalp and dry ends
Breaks easily and cannot be combed dry
• Cleansing conditioners • Scalp soothing • Curl definition • On-the-go styling
"Consumers with curly hair require scalp care solutions as a first step in their hair care ritual” EQ 100 and Abil ME 45 MB; a scalp shield hair tonic enriched with Hairflux, Tego Cosmo C 100 and Tego Cosmo P 813 MB to soothe a sensitive scalp and provide added barrier protection; and a high-oil mild cleansing scrub; which acts as an exfoliating shampoo with surprising foam and delicate cleansing. This scrub contains Tego Sulfosuccinate DO 75 and Rewopol SB FA 30 B. 2. Everyday routine: Curly consumers have unique demands and can use up to six different products daily, from gentle cleansing shampoos to deep conditioning and repairing solutions to keep their
HAIR CARE Table 2: Anti-frizz oil in balm Phase
A
Ingredient
INCI
%w/w
Isolan 17 MB
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate; Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride; Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate; Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
3.00
Dermofeel Sensolv MB
Isoamyl Laurate
4.00
Tegosoft SH
Stearyl Heptanoate
8.00
Candelilla Wax
Candelilla Cera
3.00
Glyceryl Caprate
0.50
Ozokerite Dermosoft GMC MB
1.00
Water
B
Ad 100
Glycerine
7.00
Zinc Sulphate Heptahydrate
1.00
Citric Acid (30% solution in water) Verstatil SL non-GMO
QS Aqua; Sodium Levulinate; Potassium Sorbate
scalp and hair looking healthy. Based on the most relevant attributes demanded by curly consumers, Evonik offers three formulations for everyday use. The no-rinse everyday refresher formulation for on-the-go wipes consists of Tegodeo CW 90 E, Rheance One and Verstatil MBO, enabling easy and high-performing cleansing. Damage repair antidote is a premium conditioner to restore damaged and fragile hair; it’s enriched with a combination of two readily biodegradable conditioning agents – Varisoft EQ 100 and Varisoft EQ 65 MB – as well as Tego Cosmo C 100, an amino acid derivative that improves the mechanical properties of stressed hair. Gently cleanse sulphate-free shampoo is a very mild and clear formulation especially suitable for curly hair. It contains a combination of Rheance One and Rewoteric AM C for mild cleansing and Verstatil SL non-GMO, which is an easy-tohandle preservative blend for surfactant systems. 3. Maintaining bouncy curls: Because of their lifestyles, curly consumers desire convenient and easy-to-use solutions to keep their curls defined and protected against external aggressors. Styling is an important category worth exploring. Evonik offers four innovative formulations for the styling phase. The hair definition primer is formulated with Varisoft EQ 100, Tegosoft AC MB and Tego SP 13-1 for long-lasting defined and moisturised curls. Curls in place hair stick offers convenience combined with high performance for non-messy hair styling. Two natural-based emollients, Tegosoft OER MB and Tegosoft MM MB, are blended with Varisoft EQ 100 in the stick formulation for soft and smooth, disciplined curls. Conditioning miracle hair ampoule is a leave-in conditioner that transforms from very fluid to a rich white emulsion when water is added. It contains the combination of Varisoft EQ 100 and Dermofeel Sensolv MB for improved sensorial benefits and bouncing curls. The anti-frizz oil in balm (see Table 2) contains a combination of two natural-based emulsifiers, Isolan 17 MB and Dermofeel Sensolv MB, and the fully naturallybased wax Tegosoft SH. Ultimately, Evonik’s curly you concept brings innovative and tailor-made solutions to the brand owner while
1.50
highlighting the importance of customisation for today’s beauty consumers. This is what Evonik calls ‘the soul and science of beauty’. • For more information, please send an email to rene.spada@evonik.com Evonik – www.personal-care.evonik.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
31
HAIR CARE
Serums – a secret to great hair days SEE Although each person’s hair is unique, consumers ultimately look for similar benefits in hair products that address manageability, aesthetics and hair health. Jacques Strydom, technical manager at AECI Specialty Chemicals HPC division, introduces Dow’s new collection of gum blends that cater to general hair care needs.
MORE
Table 1: A summary of the four new gum blends from Dow Name Dowsil PMX-1504 Fluid
Dowsil PMX-1505 Fluid
Dowsil PMX-1507 Fluid
Dowsil PMX-1507 Fluid
T Jacques Strydom
32
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Gum
Carrier
Benefits
Dimethiconol
C11-13 Isoparaffin, Isohexadecane • readily biodegradable
• provides smoothness and slipperiness to hair • conditions hair • natural look • heat protection
Isododecane • readily biodegradable
• provides smoothness and slipperiness to hair • conditions hair • high volatility • heat protection
PDMS (2cSt)
• provides smoothness and slipperiness to hair • conditions hair • similar sensory on hair to Xiameter PMX-1501 fluid (volatile cyclic carrier) • heat protection
C13-15 Alkane • inherently primary biodegradable carrier
• provides smoothness and slipperiness to hair • conditions hair • provides hair shine • helps increase natural origin content of formulations (ISO 16128) •heat protection
Dimethiconol
Dimethiconol
Dimethiconol
hough there are different hair types around the world, all women ultimately have certain common desires when it comes to their hair care products. A 2015 Hair Care study by TBC found exactly this, that globally women share the following hair care needs: • stronger, healthier hair (95%) • shine (90%) • reduction in split ends (86%) • fast, easy styling (85%) • volume (80%)
"The global hair serum market size is expected to reach $1.4 billion by 2025”
HAIR CARE
Table 2: A Xiameter PMX-1501 fluid-like hair serum for hair repair and heat protection Phase
A
B
C
Ingredient
INCI
Dowsil PMX-1507 Fluid
Dimethicone (and) Dimethiconol
Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2 cSt
Dimethicone
34.55
Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1.5 cSt
Dimethicone
8.80
Lipovol ALM-N
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (sweet almond) Oil
0.10
Moringa Oil CA
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
0.10
dl-α-Tocopheryl Acetate
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.20
D&C Red N 17 K7007 diluted at 0.1% in Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2 cSt
Dimethicone (and) CI 26100
1.25
• • • •
elimination of frizz (80%) immunity from the effects of humidity (80%) thicker hair or hair growth (74%) faster blow-dry, ironing or overall finishing time (65%). Annually, there are thousands of shampoo, conditioner and hair treatment launches that address these requirements with claims like shine, moisturisation and hair repair, but do these products really deliver results? A product category that has always been known to meticulously address specific hair care needs is hair serums. For this reason, the global hair serum market size is expected to reach $1.4 billion by 2025, making it one of the fastest-growing hair care categories globally. Hair serums typically target specific needs and can thus contain one of the following benefits or a combination thereof: • creates a protective layer on the hair cuticle • gives hair a luxurious smooth feel • can add shine and make hair look lustrous • can protect from some UV rays or pollution damage • may enhance hair colour vibrancy • known to be effective in preventing split ends • can protect hair from heat damage caused by styling.
wt% 55.0
broaden the choice of volatility, manufacturing process and sustainability profile for hair care brands, offering even more flexibility, with the ability to combine blends built around the same gum. For formulation inspiration, Table 2 features a reliable hair care product formulated with Dowsil PMX-1507 Fluid, one of the new gum blends, for hair repair and heat protection. •
AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com or charmaine.dupreez@aeciworld.com Dow – www.dow.com
Protect your formulations with cosmetic preservatives from ISCA UK, proudly distributed in South Africa by Chempack Industries.
SOLUTIONS FOR HAIR SERUMS Silicone gums (dimethiconol) are amongst the most efficacious materials to achieve consumer-desirable benefits in serums, but they are typically hard to handle due to their high viscosity. Therefore, silicone gums are blended into a carrier for ease of handling and added benefits. Cyclic volatile carriers make some of the best blends due to their unique properties, yet a formulator should not be limited to just these materials. Dow has recently launched a collection of four versatile gum blends, which enables brands and manufacturers to design products that consumers will appreciate, and which deliver on their claims. Each new gum blend contains a silicone gum blended in a different carrier. Each carrier has been selected to create a new sensorial experience without compromising on hair conditioning and smoothness. All four are compliant with cosmetic regulations across the world and the INCI names are China-compliant. Table 1 summarises the four new gum blends, stating the carrier type and the proven benefits of each. These blends
Chempack Industries | Contact: Linda Thieme | 083 600 0167 / 064 610 2736 | Email: linda@cpack.co.za | Website: www.cpack.co.za
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
33
HAIR CARE
Next-gen anti-dandruff active is 100% bio-based New from Symrise, Crinipan PMC green is a novel anti-dandruff active. The molecule’s efficacy is based on an innovative mode of action, and it shows comparable results to established antidandruff actives.
C
onsumers have increasingly high expectations of their cosmetics. Products should reflect the trend to be more natural and sustainable, while at the same time, being as effective as conventional solutions. With Crinipan PMC green, Symrise fulfils these requirements for an anti-dandruff active. The new ingredient has clinically proven effectiveness and targets the cause of dandruff with an innovative mode of action – its anti-dandruff effect is activated by the dandruffcausing yeast, Malassezia. The human skin mycobiome (excluding feet) is dominated by the Malassezia species, M. restricta and M. globosa. Recent research reveals that both these species are of most relevance in dandruff formation.
NEW PERSPECTIVES FOR HAIR CARE Until now, producers of anti-dandruff products mainly had to rely on three established anti-dandruff actives: zinc pyrithione; climbazole; and piroctone olamine. Apart from some multifunctional ingredients, no major anti-dandruff active has been released onto the market for decades.
"More than 45 years’ experience in the area of micro protection has enabled the launch of Crinipan PMC green“ 34
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
With Crinipan PMC green, Symrise opens up completely new perspectives for hair care brands and manufacturers and their dandruff control strategies. They will be able to achieve benchmark efficacy using a 100% bio-based and environmentally-friendly anti-dandruff active. This is particularly relevant to meeting the needs of the natural trend in personal care. “More than 45 years’ experience in the area of micro protection has enabled the launch of Crinipan PMC green. We also thank professor Dr Peter Mayser, a renowned dermatologist and dedicated expert in Malassezia research, for his constant support during our joint research project on dandruff with the University of Giessen,” explains Dr Christin Koch, head of microbiology research at the global innovation cosmetic ingredients division of Symrise. “Our first active ingredient, climbazole, dates back to 1975. Crinipan AD (climbazole) has for years been a proven and established ingredient on the market. After many years of extensive R&D, we are now launching the next generation active, which stands out with its innovative mode of action.”
EFFECTIVE, BENEFICIAL AND AWARD-WINNING “Developing green products like Crinipan PMC green is in line with the Symrise corporate sustainability strategy,” says Dr Florian Genrich, senior global product
Did you know? More than one third of global consumers are looking for a solution against dandruff. Of those consumers who have dandruff, 59% are male while 41% are female. These consumers are also more likely to suffer from hair loss, itchy scalp, damaged hair, a dry hair and scalp, and greasy roots and hair. Source: Symrise Scalp Care Exploration Study 2020 – Global Report – Feb 2020
manager skin protection at Symrise. “We are going to continue our path of developing more and more natural ingredients to serve our customers and consumers’ needs.” An in vivo leave-in study confirmed that Crinipan PMC green supports a favourable shift of the balance of Staphylococcus / Propionibacterium, reinforcing a healthy scalp microbiome. A sensorial evaluation found that the active ingredient significantly softens the skin – 75% of panellists who assessed the shampoo formulated with Crinipan PMC green experienced a softer skin feel compared to the placebo. The ingredient also simplifies formulation work by increasing shampoo viscosity with as little as 0.3% Crinipan PMC green in a formulation, while 1% greatly increases foam volume. As the most innovative active ingredient in the category scalp/skin barrier/ redness, Crinipan PMC green was awarded a prestigious first place at the BSB Innovation Awards 2020. • Symrise – www.symrise.com
REGULATIONS & TESTING
A helping hand to navigate testing technicalities Cirebelle offers analytical services to the personal care and chemical industries. The services are performed to industry best-practice in a state-of-the-art laboratory facility. Using best-in-class instruments, technician expertise, industry experience and leveraging other areas of Cirebelle, the company is able to offer analytical services to suit customer needs in an innovative way.
C
ustomers of Cirebelle understand the importance of knowing how their products react as they are formulated. As a result, its application development support services plays a key role in helping its clients to quickly navigate the technicalities of their products. Cirebelle has dedicated resources, which, together with its customers, create and explore where raw materials and products can be developed to improve the scope of application or efficacy. The company can produce the following analysis for customer support: • raw materials and their properties • oil content • surfactant analysis • content stability.
PROTOTYPE DEVELOPMENT Cirebelle’s expert knowledge and capabilities allow it to create prototypes that showcase raw materials in a final product. Its customers can go to their stakeholders with the full picture, leading to a positive impact on their sales process. The prototype development includes the improvement of Cirebelle products in various applications. In addition, the company offers a troubleshooting service to customers to resolve or overcome any technical challenges encountered in the formulation development process. This is to ensure its products achieve optimal results. The company also supports customers to meet various market demands by enhancing existing products or optimising a product’s performance in line with industry standards. Cirebelle is equipped with the knowledge to stabilise and test product formulations to ensure that the desired performance is met and documented.
Its team of experts works in close partnership with its customers to ensure their needs and requirements are always met. The applications and prototype services to its customers include working with the following materials: • microcrystalline wax • FT waxes • paraffin waxes • petroleum waxes • petroleum jellies • mineral oils • surfactants.
PRODUCT AND RAW MATERIAL TESTING
CERTIFICATE OF ANALYSIS Using its testing instruments, Cirebelle can provide qualified certificates of analysis (COA). Issued for quality assurance, a certificate of analysis confirms that its products meet the necessary product specification. Cirebelle understands that chemical testing and analysis are crucial for regulatory compliance, and offer its customers a range of analytical services to help them understand the quality as well as the composition of chemical substances and materials that are used in products. The raw materials are tested in its laboratory for critical parameters that influence the performance and quality of the final product. Once the independent tests have been conducted and confirmed, its team of experts provides the customer with a certificate of analysis. Cirebelle’s bespoke testing service, built around customers’ needs, means its analytical services team is capable of service requirements in line with market demands. •
Raw materials can be tested in Cirebelle’s stateof-the-art laboratory for critical parameters that influence the performance and quality of the final product. As a best-in-class tester of raw materials and formulations, the company uses the following instruments to conduct various tests: • Oil content apparatus • Mettler melting and dropping points instrument • Gas chromatographer Cirebelle – www.cirebelle.com • Fourier-transform infrared spectrometer • differential scanning calorimeter • Lovibond colourimeter and potentiometer Cirebelle uses best-in-class • Autotitrator instrument. laboratory instruments These instruments and analytical services equipment have been acquired from leading industry manufacturers and are regularly calibrated and serviced according to international best practice standards. Cirebelle is also ISO 9001:2015 certified.
"Cirebelle is equipped with the knowledge to stabilise and test product formulations“
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
35
REGULATIONS & TESTING
Inside hair fibre testing
High curl type hair presents the wearer with unique styling and grooming challenges. Dia-Stron explains how hair fibre metrology can provide key insights into the effects of treatments, grooming regimes and products on the properties of the hair.
T
here are a variety of testing methods to choose from in the hair care industry, including salon studies, sensory panels and scientific instruments. The data from measuring physical hair fibre properties can be used to develop new hair care ingredients and technologies, as well as evaluate technical performance of new formulations and even advance hair fibre science. Scientific tests using specialised instruments provide repeatable, unbiased results. The measurement process can be automated and the environment controlled, to expand the testing capabilities. Crucially, it also produces objective data for evidence-based claims support packages, substantiating claims referring to the efficacy, benefits or improvements in hair attributes as a result of using particular hair care products or appliances.
"Scientific tests using specialised instruments provide repeatable, unbiased results“ FDAS770 loaded with a 30mm hair fibre sample
Typical stress/strain tensile curves of African hair fibres
DIFFERENCES IN HAIR TYPE Human hair can be categorised by curl type into 8 categories, with type 1 being straight or very loose waves, and type 8 being tightly coiled/crimped fibres. Hair breakage is a major concern for all consumers, but particularly for those with high curl types or who use aggressive grooming regimes/styling practices. These individual fibres are highly curled and kinked, with an elliptical cross section and significant variation along the length of the fibre. Premature breakage of high curl type fibres, occurring exclusively in the dry state at extensions often less than 20%, is attributed to the inherent structure in the twist of the fibre or flaws produced by grooming procedures. For this reason, some testing techniques are more suited to high curl type hair fibres.
TENSILE TESTING Tensile studies are perfect for investigating and assessing the performance of ingredients, treatments and products that penetrate into the hair cortex or regulate/ control the moisture of the hair. Tensile data can be used to substantiate claims such
36
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Four CYC802 fatigue modules on an automation platform
Fatigue survival plots of African hair fibres
as ‘strength’, ‘damage protection’ and ‘damage repair’. The Dia-Stron Laboratory team conducted a study on hair of African origin with a curl type of 6/7. Fibre dimensional measurements were recorded on the Dia-Stron fibre dimensional analysis system (FDAS770). Specific
morphological attributes of African hair fibres can be quantified using this direct, noncontact and non-destructive technique: e.g. ellipticity ratio or cross-sectional changes along the fibre. Fibre tensile data was acquired on a miniature tensile tester (MTT690), an automated system designed to measure tensile properties of single hair fibres by stretching them to a specific percentage or to failure, in the dry or wet states. Normalising tensile data with fibre cross-sectional area reduces data variability by up to 80%. Comparing untreated (virgin) hair fibres and fibres relaxed twice using a commercially available no-lye relaxer treatment, the data indicated that hair became less stiff and more flexible as a result of applying the relaxer treatment, particularly in the wet state.
REGULATIONS & TESTING
Did you know? Flaws on the hair surface could develop under fatigue as cracks, propagating and growing, most often longitudinally, until catastrophic failure occurs.
The relaxer also reduced the break stress considerably while increasing the break strain, i.e. fibres extending further before breaking but ultimately breaking at a lower force. The absence of a post-yield phase could also be observed on relaxed hair fibres.
FATIGUE TESTING During daily grooming practises and routines, hair fibres are exposed to differing amounts of stresses at levels much lower than required to break the hair. Over time, this leads to an accumulation of stress within the fibre, eventually culminating in failure due to microscopic cracks and flaws that propagate and grow along its substructures. Often cracks occur at stress concentrator locations such as at a change of twist along the fibre. To study this, a repeated stress or strain can be applied to single fibres until they break – known as tensile fatigue analysis. The Dia-Stron laboratory team undertook a second study on hair of South African origin with a curl type of 6/7, taking dimensional measurements with the Dia-Stron FDAS770 and fatigue measurements with the cyclic testing module (CYC802).
The CYC802 system measures the dynamic strength of hair fibres by subjecting them to repeated cyclic tensile deformations until failure, simulating repeated grooming. This is an ideal technique for evaluating the damage caused by treatments (such as heat or chemical damage) and for claims relating to ‘strengthening’ or ‘damage protection/prevention’. Tests were conducted on hair in its natural form, relaxed using a commercially available no-lye relaxer system, and hair that had previously been braided. This was to ascertain how the additional torsional stresses caused by braiding impact the fatigue survivability compared to a chemical treatment. The tensile elastic modulus, recorded on the first loading cycle of the fatigue test, demonstrated that the application of the relaxer significantly reduced the elastic modulus compared to the natural hair. However, the physical process of braiding did not appear to significantly impact the elastic modulus compared to the natural hair. Plotting the number of cycles to break against the fibre survival probability showed the natural hair statistically survived for a higher number of cycles than both of the damaged hair groups. A likely cause of these results is the chemical damage from the highly alkaline relaxer and structural damage from the tight inter-weaving of the braided fibres.
CONCLUSION The studies conducted by Dia-Stron using specialised instruments showed significant differences on the mechanical properties of the hair samples following both chemical treatments and styling practices. There is scope for additional techniques to be used to provide insights into the unique
A CLOSER LOOK AT THE COMPANY Dia-Stron has been involved in measuring hair for over 30 years, connecting with the hair scientific community, collaborating with academics and interfacing with the hair care industry. Represented locally by Meganede, Dia-Stron is a leading manufacturer of measurement systems for single fibres and hair tresses, with an instrumentation range covering a wide array of testing techniques such as tensile strength, fatigue, dimensional, bending and torsional properties. Fibre testing automation, introduced in the early 90s, has transformed the way hair studies are performed. Dia-Stron instruments are typically found in the R&D laboratories of research organisations, multinational corporations, local companies and universities. properties of African hair. For example, highly elliptical fibres tend to become rounder in cross-section when fibres are immersed in water, which can be quantified using the DiaStron dynamic swelling module. Measuring fibre torsional properties has also shown interesting insights. Dia-Stron is developing a new instrument to examine the extremely low forces required to extend curly fibres to a linear configuration, known as decrimping, opening new possibilities for the development of ingredient and formulation technologies tailored to the African hair market. • Dia-Stron – www.diastron.com Meganede – www.meganede.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
37
REGULATIONS & TESTING
Keeping the self-regulatory wheel in motion Regulations serve to provide a framework within which companies can operate to mainly ensure that safe products are placed on the market. The requirements stipulated in regulations provide clear necessities in terms of product categories, composition, labelling, claims, safety assessments, product information files and market surveillance. These requirements create a level playing field for all operators and potential operators in an industry where fair market access is enabled. By Dershana Jackison
T
38
he regulatory framework of the South African cosmetics industry is unique when compared to other African countries and the rest of the world. The reason being that for 26 years, the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association of South Africa (CTFA) has taken the lead in providing guidelines and advice based on international best practice and regulations, in the absence of local regulations within a selfregulated environment. The overarching National Department of Health’s Foodstuffs, Cosmetics and Disinfectant Act (Act 54 of 1972)
relating to Labelling, Advertising and Composition of Cosmetics – the regulator has not promulgated these regulations. In order for these regulations to be enacted and enforced, the industry will require a designated cosmetics unit within the DOH. CTFA has proposed to the Minister that an optimal solution would be a designated cosmetic directorate, which will provide a definitive path for the enactment and enforcement of the regulations, easing the process for the regulator while
includes regulations for the cosmetics industry. However, the Act serves only to provide the broader regulatory aspects such as labelling and safety requirements, which are applicable to food, cosmetics and disinfectants. It is for this reason that CTFA welcomed the step by the Department of Health (DOH) to provide specific and dedicated regulations for the cosmetics industry. Yet, since the initial momentum, things have slowed down and the industry has not seen promulgation of these regulations. CTFA believes that the lack of a cosmetic directorate may be the reason why – since August 2016 and then again in December 2017, when DOH published drafts of the Regulations
simultaneously providing the industry with clarity and an entity which CTFA can engage with on behalf of the industry.
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
AWARE OF NON-COMPLIANCE As the association representing more than 80% of the South African cosmetics industry, CTFA continues to function as the advisory body which industry has come to trust in providing guidance and support. It also proactively lobbies with other stakeholders on behalf of the cosmetics industry. The self-regulated framework is still applicable even though the draft regulations were published in 2016 and the redraft in 2017. This framework is
"CTFA believes that the lack of a cosmetic directorate may be the reason why … the regulator has not promulgated these regulations” recognised by the DOH as it plans the structure to regulate the industry. CTFA’s many years of operating as an advisor in a self-regulated industry is aware of some non-compliant products that enter the market either through local manufacturing or importation. The association’s non-jurisdictional powers have, in some cases, rendered its efforts to create awareness to such perpetrators and to offer guidance on best practice and guidelines, as futile. The delay in promulgation has further added to this burden.
ADVANCING IN THE ABSENCE OF REGULATIONS CTFA provides the Cosmetic Compendium as a guideline document, which includes industry best practice and standards on various topics. The Compendium is a recognised guideline within the local industry as well as abroad for companies planning to import their products to South Africa. The DOH also recognises this guideline document, which was referenced in the drafting of the cosmetic regulations. CTFA’s regulatory
REGULATIONS & TESTING
experts ensure that an updated document, including all pertinent and new regulatory trends and annexes, is made available to industry members on a regular basis. CTFA’s Cosmetic Compendium can best be described as a cogwheel comprising of several cogs. Each cog is representative of a regulatory aspect, which enables the wheel to remain intact and turning towards compliance. The first cog is the South African Bureau of Standards (SABS) – cosmetic standards. CTFA represents the industry at the sitting of the SABS Technical Committee TC217 - Cosmetics. Inputs and votes are presented on behalf of the industry to ensure that the industry standards remain relevant and updated in the South African context.
Did you know? CTFA is the cosmetics industry’s voice in South Africa, committed to maintaining the high quality and safety of personal care products.
The second cog is the National Regulator of Compulsory Specifications (NRCS), which provides compulsory specifications based on legal metrology applicable to the cosmetics industry as well as standards guiding ingredient listings of cosmetic products. Once again CTFA is a member of the technical committees responsible for such standards to ensure their applicability for the cosmetics industry. The Advertising Regulatory Board forms the third cog, making available the advertising code of practice, which includes a cosmetic code as an appendix to the main code. CTFA ensures that this code is updated annually and kept relevant in terms of claims and the advertising of cosmetic products placed on the South African market. The Annexes, based on the European Commission (EC) Regulations 1223/2009, forms the final cog of the self-regulatory wheel. CTFA monitors the updates that are under discussion as well as those that are adopted and their applicability to the South African industry. Based on this, the annex updates are communicated to the industry and a transition period is granted for industry to prepare to comply within the compliance period.
CTFA ensures that this selfregulatory wheel remains in motion and encourages compliance from industry members.
RECOGNISED IN AFRICA The South African cosmetics industry is well-known for its innovative, efficacious and safe products that consumers have come to expect. CTFA promotes and supports these attributes by providing a self-regulated framework within which responsible manufacturers, brand owners, importers, distributors and exporters can operate. This framework is based on international best practice and guidelines and carries international recognition. In recent times, many African countries have recognised the South African model as a potential template for their individual regulatory reform processes.•
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Dershana Jackison is the head of policy and regulatory affairs at CTFA. She has more than 20 years’ experience in the pharmaceutical, cosmetics and food industries, with specific focus on product development, quality control, quality assurance regulatory and technical aspects.
CTFA – www.ctfa.co.za
Maintaining World Class Standards, Principles & Practices in our Industry T: +27 11 795 4272 | E: info@ctfa.co.za | www.ctfa.co.za
Influential
Expertise
Dynamic
The CTFA is the cosmetic industry’s voice in South Africa, committed to maintaining high quality and safety of personal care products.
We provide all the necessary technical expertise and advice on ingredients, labelling, packaging and product claims.
We are vibrant and dynamic, comprising of multinational giants, local brand owners and small entrepreneurial companies.
Supportive The CTFA supports a sustainable and respected South African Cosmetic Industry.
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
39
REGULATIONS & TESTING
Skin measurements in difficult times
In times of social distancing and strict hygienic rules as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, skin measurements have become more difficult and time consuming. Christiane Uhl and Beate Becker of Courage + Khazaka electronic explore the realities of conducting skin measurements in difficult times.
T
esting facilities have prepared for the impact of COVID-19 by modifying their measurement places so that close personal contact is prevented and distancing can be maintained. Even the erection of separation shields between subjects and the observer and the preparation and disinfection of the measuring and waiting areas still raises many questions. Can the infection spread through contact with measurement equipment? How can the contact surfaces of measurement instruments be disinfected? Early tests showed that the virus can survive on inanimate surfaces like mobile phones for several days.1 While the main modes of transmission have since been identified – including droplet and airborne transmission,2 you still need to take care to follow strict hygienic protocols. In many cases, the areas of interest for skin measurements are the volar forearm or protected body sites. For such skin locations, the risk of transferring the virus from the measurement site to the nasal vicinity should be minimal. However, for certain products, measurements on the face are also conducted. As a result, we have intensely researched and carried out testing on a sanitising set for skin measuring probes and the corresponding protocol. The aim is to allow laboratories and testing facilities to safely continue carrying out tests for research and claim support of cosmetic products and ingredients.
ESTABLISHING SANITISING PROTOCOL The first step was to find a suitable viricidal product that is skin friendly and, at the same time, does not affect the material of the probes
"We have intensely researched and carried out testing on a sanitising set for skin measuring probes and the corresponding protocol” on which it is used. Of course, it should be easily available in larger quantities and be effective against coronavirus. Disinfectants conforming to WHO formulations not only work on the skin surface but can also be used to sanitise surfaces. Their viricidal efficacy is based on a high content of ethanol and hydrogen peroxide. To assist customers with their skin measurements in challenging times, Courage + Khazaka electronic performed in-house tests to ensure that Zanitize not only works against the virus, based on information from the manufacturer, but is also compatible with the material of its probes and devices. Additionally, we had to ensure that the measurement results are not affected subsequent to the drying of the instrument surfaces. Courage + Khazaka electronic did not test the viricidal properties of the disinfectant itself but trusted the manufacturer’s information on the product data sheet.3 To achieve this, repetitional cleansing procedures were performed where the probes were placed in contact with the disinfecting agent over a period of five minutes followed by drying them thoroughly with a swab. Before and after each cleansing and drying procedure,
Disinfecting the measuring table
Measurement of volar forearm
several measurements were performed on a marked skin site as well as on the check calibration tools of each probe. In order to detect changes of the material, Courage + Khazaka electronic closely inspected all surfaces for microscopic damages. After positive test results, the team established sanitising protocol for the different probes and instruments with individual easy to perform steps and using common material, which can easily be obtained worldwide. The sanitising protocol for all its different probes is available on request. Contact Courage + Khazaka electronic for more information. • REFERENCES: 1. N. van Doremalen, et al.: Aerosol and surface stability of HCoV-19 (SARS-CoV-2) compared to SARS-CoV-1. The New England Journal of Medicine. DOI: 10.1056/ NEJMc2004973 (2020).
An example of a sanitising procedure: • Step one: clean the probe head for 30 seconds using a swab moistened with sanitiser • Step two: dry the probe head with a dry swab • Steps three and four: clean the handle and cable with a tissue moistened with sanitiser without further drying.
40
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
2. W. Sungnak et al.: SARS-CoV-2 entry factors are highly expressed in nasal epithelial cells together with innate immune genes, Nat Med 26, 681–687 (2020). https://doi. org/10.1038/s41591-020-0868-6 3. Data sheet for Zanitize, SkinMade GmbH
Courage + Khazaka electronic – www.courage-khazaka.de/en
PHARMA FOCUS // SUPPLY CHAIN & LOGISTICS
Pandemic fast-tracks air freight supply chain progress
Few – if any – air freight supply chain stakeholders envisaged a global pandemic and air traffic shutdown in their business continuity plans. All had to react quickly, collaboratively and innovatively to cope with the disruption. The lessons learned during the COVID-19 pandemic are likely to fasttrack digitisation, agility and collaboration in the sector going forward. Did you know? Pharma supply chain challenges, solutions and opportunities will be discussed at air cargo Africa 2021, to be presented by Messe München South Africa at the Sandton Convention Centre from 9 to 11 February. For more information and to reserve exhibition space visit www.aircargoafrica.aero.
warehouse to warehouse or from a vaccination to patient administration. Knowing exactly where everything is in the supply chain supports
"The pandemic has taught supply chain stakeholders to focus on agility, resilience, visibility and collaboration”
T
his emerged during a webinar on the future of life science air freight. This was the third in a series of webinars hosted
by Pharma.Aero in partnership with STAT Times, a strategic partner with Messe München South Africa, organiser of air cargo Africa 2021. Experts weighed in on the changes shaped by the pandemic and the long-term forecasts for life science air freight, noting that there would be no going back to the ‘old normal’. Dr Wouter Dewulf, academic director C-MAT at the University of Antwerp, predicted growth and change in the life sciences sector over the medium to long term, with healthcare becoming increasingly strategic, more mergers and acquisitions in the sector and nationalisation of parts of the industry. The consequences of this
security and allows us to switch quickly and twice the level of GDP growth,” he predicted. In the pharma industry, it was expected that regional blocs would form, with shortened supply chains within these blocs. However, air cargo was expected to continue growing across the board. “The long-term trends are still very
VISIBILITY BUILDS AGILITY Marc Schmid, head CHHub and logistics experts at Novartis, noted: “Connecting all of the dots across the supply chain is a challenge most stakeholders face. But to achieve the
positive,” he said.
agility to move quickly on new routes, you need
THE IMPORTANCE OF DIGITAL SOLUTIONS
and account manager, cargo and resource
full visibility.” Trevor Caswell, vice chair of Pharma.Aero
To maximise the opportunities of these emerging trends, stakeholders would have to maintain the momentum of progress they had made in coping with the pandemic. Speakers during the webinar noted that leading pharmaceutical companies, shippers and airlines had been forced to adapt quickly during the pandemic to maintain standards and service – communication, collaboration and digital technologies have supported this. Paul Delbar, solution architect at Nallian, noted: “Everyone suffered from a lack of visibility and predictability, so they had to increase their efforts to coordinate planning and avoid bottlenecks.” Kathleen Buckley, director for inter-regional
would include commoditisation, shorter supply
transport excellence consumer/pharm at
chains, and strategic stock building.
Johnson & Johnson said digital solutions and
“COVID-19 will accelerate trends that
meet new needs.”
centre at Edmonton International Airport, said the pandemic has taught supply chain stakeholders to focus on agility, resilience, visibility and collaboration. “We need to work on improved methods throughout the entire supply chain. All shippers, freight forwarders and airlines will have to work together to improve resilience, and at the same time digital advancements and data quality must be a focus to improve transparency, and ultimately traceability.” Suzette Scheepers, CEO of Messe München South Africa, added: “Collaboration is clearly the key to future progress. For the air freight sector across Africa, air cargo Africa presents a prime opportunity to network and forge new partnerships to drive development and growth.” •
quality data underpinned such coordination.
were already coming. In 20 years, life
“Digital technologies allow for better global
sciences supply chain volumes will triple,
visibility from end to end, whether this is from
Messe München South Africa – www.mm-sa.com
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
41
PHARMA FOCUS // SUPPLY CHAIN & LOGISTICS
System logistics provider accelerates access to medicines The partnership between multinational pharmaceutical company Dr Reddy’s and Dachser began in 2011, in Hyderabad, India, when a supply chain tender was awarded to Dachser India. Soon afterwards, Dachser South Africa delivered the first local shipment and has since supported the continuous growth of Dr Reddy’s in the country.
O
perating as a wholly-owned subsidiary, Dr Reddy’s South African business has become one of the leading generics manufacturers in the country, with products that focus on key therapeutic areas and specialist care. Ravie Chetty, head of supply chain at Dr Reddy’s, comments: “We accelerate access to affordable and innovative medicines, led by our core philosophy of ‘Good Health Can’t Wait’. As a leader in the pharmaceutical industry, we have the ethical and moral imperative to ensure good health can be delivered to those who need it and excellent logistics is a critical part of that process. Dachser has been an invaluable supply chain partner as we’ve expanded our operations in South Africa.”
A HIGHLY-REGULATED INDUSTRY Dachser is a global leader in system logistics. Detlev Duve, Dachser South Africa’s MD, says: “We have successfully been arranging tailor-made transport solutions for Dr Reddy’s for nearly a decade, focusing on the requirements of current and new products in the company’s expanding range. Our services include all air and sea freight imports, customs clearing with off-site cold storage, and subcontracted local deliveries.” Duve explains that shipping pharmaceuticals is a highly-regulated field and that the life science and healthcare sector has become an important specialist area for Dachser, both globally and in South Africa.
42
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
“Our specialist teams are focused on ensuring that temperature control is consistent throughout the entire supply chain”
PHARMA FOCUS // SUPPLY CHAIN & LOGISTICS
Dachser South Africa is expanding its logistics footprint in Africa
STAYING STRONG DURING COVID-19 The social and economic implications of the COVID-19 pandemic have been felt on a global scale, as millions of people were forced into lockdown, businesses stalled their operations and healthcare systems are pushed to breaking point. While the pharmaceutical industry has experienced increased bursts of innovation in vaccine development and data sharing, pharma companies have also been burdened with the obligation to maintain supply chains for existing treatments and services. This would not be possible without the support of logistics providers. For Dachser SA, the main driver is staff commitment. The company has implemented various measures to ensure the health of its employees, who have been on board since the beginning of the pandemic. Its home office staff have also adapted very well to ensure seamless operations and minimal disruption during lockdown. Globally, Dachser’s branches have shown the same commitment, ensuring that shipments are shipped in the best possible way with the shortest transit times possible.
Because the cool chain is vital to the pharmaceutical industry, Dachser ensures that it is carefully monitored from end to end. The use of temperature monitors and ensuring that cargo is moved seamlessly from the main carriage (vessel or aircraft) via cooling stations directly onto refrigerated vehicles is the key to temperature control. Separate checks are done Company MD Detlev en route with Duve, representing Dachser South Africa temperature tracking at the Transport at all loading and Africa Awards unloading points. “Pharmaceutical products are temperature and time sensitive, requiring meticulous, accurate and high standards in monitoring and handling to ensure product quality is maintained,” he says. “Our specialist teams are focused on ensuring that temperature control is consistent throughout the entire supply chain to preserve the integrity of the shipment. The security and privacy of pharmaceutical products is also a priority.”
ACCESS TO GLOBAL EXPERTISE Dachser has global expertise in handling pharma products. The company holds IATA’s CEIV Pharma certification for
Did you know? Dachser SA has agreements with surveillance and security companies to track sensitive and high-value shipments from unloading facilities up to the client’s door. The Dachser electronic customs clearance process also speeds up the transit time by having all customs formalities completed within minutes of arrival.
pharmaceutical shipments on three continents. CEIV Pharma addresses the industry’s need for more safety, security, compliance and efficiency, with the creation of a globally-consistent and recognised pharmaceutical product handling certification. While Dachser South Africa is still in the process of obtaining this certification, it has developed a close partnership with an approved service provider to offer Dr Reddy’s a specialist level of logistics performance at every stage of the local supply chain. “We draw from a pool of global knowledge and regularly review procedures for handling temperaturecontrolled pharma/life science shipments with our subcontractor. Our employees have the appropriate knowhow and essential training is provided to Dachser staff at regular intervals. We’re looking forward to expanding our client portfolio in this area.” •
Dachser South Africa – www.dachser.co.za
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
43
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES
L’Oréal unveils bold sustainability targets for 2030 The new sustainability programme, called ‘L’Oréal for the future’, lays down L’Oréal’s latest set of ambitions for 2030. The group is accelerating its transformation towards a model that respects planetary boundaries and reinforces its commitments to sustainability and inclusion.
J
ean-Paul Agon, chairman and CEO of L’Oréal, explains: “L’Oréal’s sustainable revolution is entering a new era. The challenges the planet is facing are unprecedented. It is essential to accelerate our efforts to preserve a safe operating space for humanity. We do so in our own business operations and in our contribution to the society at large. We know that the biggest challenges are yet to come, so L’Oréal will stay faithful to its ambition to operate within the limits of the planet.” Planetary boundaries are limits that, if crossed, will compromise the Earth’s capacity as a habitat for human development. Respecting a safe
44
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
SEE MORE operating space for humanity must be a priority in the decades to come – and scientists unanimously agree. This is why L’Oréal aims to transition to a way of operating its entire business within the limits of the planet. The Group has defined new quantifiable targets for 2030, to fight climate change as supported by the Science Based Targets initiative. It is also going one-step further by addressing three other major environmental issues: 1. preservation of biodiversity 2. sustainable water management 3. circular use of resources. “Over the past decade, we have profoundly transformed our company,
Did you know? By 2030, 100% of employees of L’Oréal’s strategic suppliers’ will be paid at least a living wage, covering their basic needs and those of their dependents, calculated in line with best practices.
putting sustainability at the very core of our business model. With our new commitments, we are entering a new phase of acceleration of that transformation – going beyond our direct environmental impact, helping consumers to make more sustainable choices, as well as generating positive social and environmental contribution.
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES
A CLOSER LOOK AT L’ORÉAL’S TARGETS: • By 2025, all of L’Oréal’s sites will have achieved carbon neutrality by improving energy efficiency and using 100% renewable energy. • By 2030, 100% of the plastics used in the packaging of L’Oréal’s products will be either from recycled or biobased sources. • By 2030, L’Oréal will reduce by 50% per finished product, its entire greenhouse gas emissions – compared to 2016. • The group is allocating €150 million to address urgent social and environmental issues. Jean-Paul Agon (far left) and Alexandra Palt (third from the left) at the launch of L’Oréal’s new sustainability programme
"We consider it our role to contribute to building an inclusive and sustainable society” As an industry leader, we consider it our role to contribute to building an inclusive and sustainable society,” says Alexandra Palt, L’Oréal’s chief corporate responsibility officer.
BETTER CHOICES FOR CONSUMERS Alongside the group’s in-depth transformation process, it wants to inspire customers to also take action with us. The more everyone knows, the better they can act – which is why an important part of achieving sustainability is accurately assessing the impact of products and acting to reduce that impact. L’Oréal wants to share this information with consumers so they can make informed, sustainable choices too. People are willing to do their part for the environment by making sustainable product choices. To make these choices,
transparency is key. This is why L’Oréal developed a product impact labelling system to inform 15 billion consumers of the environmental and social impact of their products. The labelling will include a score on a scale from A to E, with A considered best-in-class in terms of environmental impact. The method has been endorsed by independent scientific experts and data has been verified by Bureau Veritas, an independent auditor. The labels and scores will be accessible on the websites of the respective brands and products. In addition to this information, L’Oréal will share details about the manufacturing conditions and packaging profile of each product. The labelling will also display key information regarding a product’s social impact, including compliance by raw materials and packaging suppliers with the fundamental principles of the United Nations on labour standards and the number of suppliers committed to social inclusion and having contributed to the product, if any. Garnier is the first brand to implement the new methodology for its hair care products. This labelling will progressively be extended to other countries and other L’Oréal brands and product categories. By 2022, this labelling system will apply to all the
Group’s rinse-off products, except travel sizes. By 2030, 100% of our products will be ecodesigned.
ADDRESSING SOCIAL ISSUES L’Oréal announced in May 2020 that it will allocate €150 million to address urgent social and environmental issues. The group is engaging €100 million into impact investing to act upon key environmental challenges. €50 million will be used to finance damaged natural marine and forest ecosystems restoration projects through a fund called the L’Oréal Fund for Nature Regeneration, to be operated by Mirova.3 Another €50 million will be directed to financing projects linked to the circular economy. To help vulnerable women, the group is also creating a €50 million charitable endowment fund. This will support field organisations and charities in their efforts to fight poverty, help women achieve social and professional integration, provide emergency assistance to refugee and disabled women, prevent violence against women and support victims. Through this in-depth transformation, L’Oréal hopes to be a catalyst of change in the beauty industry and beyond, inspiring its customers and people worldwide to take action with the group. •
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
45
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES
Lessonia develops 100% recyclable sheet mask packaging
Driven to reduce the ecological footprint of sheet masks, Lessonia has discovered and patented a material that allows for 100% recyclable packaging for this must-have beauty product.
S
heet masks are the ultimate selfcare beauty product, packed with beneficial ingredients for a quick skin care fix. Options range from nourishing hyaluronic acid and instantly hydrating marine collagen to brightening vitamin C, yet despite their skin care benefits, these single-use beauty products have raised environmental questions. Traditionally, sheet masks are made from plastic microfibres, polyester, silicones or nylon which cannot be recycled or composted. This means, once a sheet mask has been used, it simply ends up in landfill. Their packaging is also an area of concern.
"It took Lessonia’s research and development team three years to reach a viable solution to overcome the packaging challenge”
Since the start of its sheet mask activity, Lessonia has been aware of the need to reduce the environmental footprint of these singleuse beauty products to guarantee their longevity in the market.
ON THE ROAD TO SUSTAINABILITY Last year, the company harnessed its technical expertise to reduce the ecological footprint of sheet masks, re-engineering its packaging and removing the polypropylene support. According to the French company, which specialises in private label sheet mask manufacturing and producing cosmetic ingredients, beauty brands usually use aluminium foil sachet packaging, which has a high ecological footprint owing to how it’s produced. As an alternative, Lessonia offers a sachet without aluminium foil which halves the carbon footprint of the materials needed to manufacture sachets.
The automatic sheet mask line at Lessonia’s manufacturing plant, based in France
46
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Lessonia also offers natural and biodegradable sheet masks combined with lotions of natural origin (>98%) or organic lotions. However, the ultimate goal was to find a recyclable material to design recyclable packaging for its sheet mask products.
FINDING THE RIGHT SOLUTION It took Lessonia’s research and development team three years to reach a viable solution to overcome the An example of Lessonia’s 100% recyclable sachets for packaging challenge. The sheet masks three-year project included material selections, environmental footprint measurements and ascertaining the degree of recyclability, as well as compatibility tests with cosmetic lotions, stability tests on long-term use and a feasibility study on material industrialisation. The packaging material discovered by Lessonia meets all the necessary requirements and was patented in 2018. It is based on an oriented polypropylene material (OPP), which offers several possibilities for sophisticated printing. Its other advantages include: • a highly reduced environmental impact • 100% recyclable • a technologically more advanced sachet than that of Asian manufacturers. With this recyclable packaging, Lessonia boosts its position as a European leader in sheet mask manufacturing. With consumers looking for more sustainable solutions in beauty and skin care, as well as more innovations and product efficiency, Lessonia gives brands an opportunity to take a major step towards a 100% recyclable solution for sheet mask packaging. •
Lessonia – www.lessonia.com
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES
Premium skin care brand embraces sustainability In the beauty industry, sustainability continues to be a key topic, particularly when it comes to packaging and ethical supply chains. An increasing number of beauty brands are trying to get an ecomessage across via their packaging, but for most, the focus is on a product’s secondary packaging. Yet this is not the case for Skin Rejuvenation Technologies – a South African skin care company that is going the extra mile to clean up its primary packaging act. By Abby Vorster
S
kin Rejuvenation Technologies has always considered the Earth when selecting active ingredients and creating product formulations. While its formulators would never compromise on product quality and efficacy, the company always endeavours to select the most sustainably sourced active ingredients. This ethos also extends to its packaging. The company started its journey to source more sustainable primary packaging components about 18 months ago and found that post-consumer recycled (PCR) plastic, bioplastics and bio-copolyester presented the best options. Although it was challenging to source the right eco-friendly packaging to meet its requirements, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies persevered. Marketing manager, Delia Greeff explains: “This has been a challenging endeavour as many of our products require airless and lightless packaging to protect the highly active formulations from degrading or becoming unstable, and we wanted to keep
"Although it was challenging to source the right eco-friendly packaging to meet its requirements, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies persevered”
our premium aesthetic. We’ve needed to request samples from various packaging suppliers and test these with our products formulated with the highest active ingredient concentrations and various pHs. We also needed to assess whether the surface of the packs could accommodate a quality print and even had do transit testing to ensure that our consumers would receive the premium quality and standards that they have come to expect from our brands.”
ECO-PACKAGING IN ACTION PCR has a great significance for the environment, as the plastic has been recycled into a resin so that it can be reused. The carbon emissions generated by the production process are reduced by approximately 60% so that the environmental and ecological impact is greatly reduced. According to sugarcane.org, bioplastics have the same physical and chemical properties as regular plastic. The difference is that sugarcane-based bioplastics generate far fewer dioxide carbon emissions during production and are 100 percent recyclable. In July 2018, SK Chemicals launched a new bio-copolyester, Ecozen HF, which has revolutionised the PET market. Ecozen HF is a replacement material for aluminium, PET and glass wherever heat and pressure resistance combined with transparency is required. The material is suitable for aerosol, cosmetic and hot-fill applications, and is fully miscible with PET in the recycling stream. Skin Rejuvenation Technologies’ newest offering, the Elements Baby & Kids range, which was launched in August, is packaged in the new environmentally friendlier
RECYCLE INCENTIVE FOR CONSUMERS In addition to moving to environmentally friendlier packaging, the company runs an ongoing ‘bring back your packaging’ campaign. Optiphi offers a free cleanser to consumers who return 10 empty packs in the same range, to their salon. The salon will send the empty packaging to its closest recycling plant while salons located in close proximity to Skin Rejuvenation Technologies can return the empties to the head office for the company to recycle. This recycle incentive applies to all the optiphi ranges including the Active, Classic, Body Curve, Delta Medical Skincare and the new Elements Baby & Kids Range.
packaging. In terms of its current ranges, the more sustainable packaging options are being phased in Skin Rejuvenation as new product batches Technologies’ are manufactured. marketing manager, Delia Greeff “Because the change in packaging is barely noticeable to consumers, we are inserting a promo card into the box, which indicates the type of environmentally friendlier packaging used to package the product. It also features a QR code, which the consumer can scan for more information, using their mobile phone. The landing page on our website will include consumerfriendly content on the different types of eco-friendly primary packaging and the individual benefits of each. This way we are educating the consumer about our journey to reduce our carbon footprint while encouraging others to follow our lead,” says Greeff. • WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
47
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES
Setting quality standards for recycled plastic Werner & Mertz, the founding company of the German ‘Recyclat-Initiative’, and Beiersdorf have entered into a cooperation with Fraunhofer IVV. Together they’ve developed a standard for the use of mechanically recycled plastic waste obtained from the Grüner Punkt waste collection system, for cosmetics packaging. This marks a big step for recycling and the cosmetics industry.
F
or a while there has been great uncertainty in the cosmetics industry, among manufacturers and recycling companies alike, about the use of so-called post-consumer recyclates (PCR) in cosmetics packaging. Generally, Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products stipulates that manufacturers should only put safe products into circulation. Yet it does not define under which conditions recycled material may be used. Hence the uncertainty prevails as to whether and in what form recycled material meets the safety criteria. Werner & Mertz has been driving the development of HDPE treatment processes in a long-term project with partners and has demonstrated that the safe use of recycled HDPE is possible for rinse-off or cleansing products. As a market leader in skin care and owner of the Nivea and Eucerin brands, Beiersdorf recently set ambitious targets for the
"We have proven that mechanical recycling is a viable route for highquality secondary plastic materials”
Nivea shower gel on a packaging line
48
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
recyclability of its packaging within the company’s new sustainability agenda ‘Care Beyond Skin’. The first products packaged in bottles made from recycled plastic have already been launched. “In our efforts to further increase the proportion of recycled material in our plastic packaging, we face the challenge that suppliers are insufficiently prepared for our material requirements. It quickly became clear that we had to provide support in the development of high-quality recyclates, especially in defining the quality requirements. Werner & Mertz had already done excellent preparatory work in this area. Together we further developed the idea and set the basis for a cosmetics standard,” explains Michael Becker, head of global packaging development, Beiersdorf.
CLEAR RECOMMENDATIONS To provide the industry with guidance and increase clarity on the usage of recycled plastic in cosmetics packaging, Werner & Mertz and Beiersdorf, in cooperation with Dr Frank Welle of the Fraunhofer Institute for Process Engineering and Packaging (Fraunhofer IVV), have drawn up an inventory of existing recyclates on the European market. This provides initial transparency of the existing recycling processes, available qualities and material properties. By comparing this data with the requirements for cosmetic packaging, it was possible for the first time to define a standard that provides answers to the most important questions, ultimately helping recycling companies and manufacturers. Recyclers learn how the quality situation is evaluated from the cosmetics industry’s point of view and receive information on how high-quality processing of used plastic can be successful and what quality is required to meet the industry’s requirements. According to the findings of the study, packaging manufacturers should aim to design plastic packaging in a way that it consists of
It is now possible to manufacture highquality cosmetic packaging, such as shower gel bottles, from used plastic. Backed by the new Fraunhofer IVV analysis, Beiersdorf and Werner & Mertz encourage others in the cosmetics industry to also use recyclates
high-quality material that can be recycled. The idea of recyclability should also be taken into account: for example, by using mono-materials instead of mixed materials; sustainable printing inks; removable labels as well as easy-todetach packaging components to allow separation during the recycling process. The results of the analysis will be published later this year by Fraunhofer IVV.
MORE USE OF RECYCLED MATERIAL “Through our joint efforts, we have proven that mechanical recycling is a viable route for high-quality secondary plastic materials. Our findings are forward-looking and intended to give all players more security. If many companies follow our example, demand will increase, accelerating investments in processing plants while seeing the repeated use of plastic waste become more economical. This not only benefits the companies but also protects our environment. In Beiersdorf we have found a strong cooperation partner, which shares our vision of the industry-wide use of recycled material,” says Immo Sander, head of packaging development, Werner & Mertz. • Fraunhofer IVV – www.ivv.fraunhofer.de/en Werner & Mertz – www.werner-mertz.de
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES
Committed to achieving true sustainability The Optima Group, based in Schwaebisch Hall, Germany, has made sustainability one of its central tenets. To this end, a sustainability department has been established within the company to focus on developing new ideas and solutions. “What will tomorrow’s world need? What are consumers expecting and what will their purchasing behaviour be like?” For Optima, these and other issues will be pivotal in the coming years.
ENCOURAGING RESULTS ‘Honest packaging’ is particularly important to the sustainability solutions team. After all, not everything that looks sustainable is
From now on, Ulrich Burkart (left) and Dominik Broellochs will be coordinating all Optima Group’s sustainability initiatives
T
he issue of sustainability has become increasingly important. Discussions with partner companies and the hygiene, food and paper industries have confirmed the need for a comprehensive approach to the issue along the entire value chain. For Optima, sustainability is one of four core issues the company is focusing on, along with flexibility, safety and digitalisation. Dominik Broellochs and Ulrich Burkart will be coordinating all of the sustainability initiatives for the Optima Group. They will be supported by project teams created on the basis of the expertise required and the specific issue at hand. This means that the sustainable solutions team has at its disposal the largest possible capacity and an extensive network. “We are shouldering the responsibility for the world of tomorrow,” says Joachim Dittrich, chairman of the Optima consumer division.
actually sustainable. “Frequently, at first sight, packaging may look highly environmentally friendly. However, when you compare the ecological assessment with other packaging materials, it soon becomes clear that appearances can be deceptive,” Dominik Broellochs explains. He adds that poorly designed packaging systems result in waste. Comprehensive approaches to managing recycling prevent waste and make it possible to reuse or reprocess packaging in a sustainable way. This is why Optima has set a goal of developing ‘honest, sustainable packaging’ of the future. There is already considerable expertise being fed into machine development in this regard. The best solutions for the future are being identified, working in collaboration with customers, packaging material suppliers and material manufacturers. Safety still plays an important role, but always from the approach of environmental compatibility. This is also regularly verified through close collaboration with research bodies. Wherever possible, the use of new barrier solutions should ensure product
Optima is working on projects with paper packaging. These are made possible with the Optima OSR packaging machine (pictured) for toilet rolls. Systems like this can be adapted from film or paper packaging in a flexible way. Optima is working with pure paper, and no coatings are needed for this packaging
One of the first paper packaging projects was completed in collaboration with Fripa. Torsten Bahl (left), a member of the Fripa management board, and Optima’s Broellochs are pictured with the new paper packaging
"Optima has set a goal of developing ‘honest, sustainable packaging’ of the future” protection as well as material degradability and recyclability. For example, cellulose and other materials that have been somewhat overlooked, like cellophane, are being tested.
A HOLISTIC APPROACH The implementation of legal requirements and guidelines in the company is checked and validated as part of its corporate social responsibility programme. “We are pleased that we have been able to recruit two experienced Optima employees and pioneers for this challenging job – Ulrich Burkart and Dominik Broellochs. Their previous positions mean that both have a good insight into the field of sustainable packaging,” says Dittrich. In the future, Optima will be reporting on its latest sustainability developments and solutions on a regular basis. •
Optima – www.optima-packaging.com/en
WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2020
49
Tea
time
To advertise in
Crossword
contact Anita Raath Sales executive
+27 (0)82 976 6541
Carla Melless Sales executive
+27 (0)83 260 6060
Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive
+27 (0)71 438 1918 www.pharmacos.co.za
Clues Across
Down
1. Twelve (5)
1. Journal (5)
4. Hoard (5)
2. Menagerie (3)
7. Unaware (9)
3. World’s longest river (4)
8. Gape (4)
4. Secret or hidden (6)
10. Wore away (6)
5. Bustling (7)
12. Birds of prey (6)
6. Abated (5)
13. Notion (4)
9. Placed a bet (7)
16. Large spider (9)
11. Thinner (6)
18. The lowest point of anything (5)
12. Consumed (5)
19. Implied (5)
14. Proficient (5) 15. Female relative (4)
ADVERTISERS' INDEX
17. Part of a circle (3)
50
06 Agencies SA......................................27........www.o6southafrica.com
Inzpire Health.......................................... 7........www.inzpire.co.za
CanbiGold............................................ OBC........www.canbigold.com
ISW Shrink................................................. 8........www.iswshrink.co.za
Chemgrit Cosmetics ...........................28........www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za
MGSA Projects...................................OFC........www.mgsaprojects.co.za
Chempack Industries..........................33........www.cpack.co.za
Nautica Organic Trading ...................31........www.nauticaorganics.com
CTFA..........................................................39........www.ctfa.co.za
Russell Finex..........................................19........www.russellfinex.com
Danlink Ingredients .............................. 5........www.sisterna.com
Vantage Specialty Chemicals .........29........www.vantagegrp.com
Dia-Stron.................................................37........www.diastron.com
Vega Controls SA .................................13........www.vega.com/vegapoint
IMCD SA ..................................................23........www.imcdgroup.com/en/businessgroups/personal-care
AUGUST 2020 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA
Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic
Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems,
Chemists’ website will find information
Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam
on membership, educational
Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters,
programmes (specific details
Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives
pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and
Tel: 010 595 9690
higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.
Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za
www.coschem.co.za
M&L LABORATORY
DALGEN
M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of
Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers, plastic containers,
analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,
closures and packaging accessories.
Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025
Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za
accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com
FORMPAK
BOTANICHEM
For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass,
BOTANICHEM is a supplier of specialist ingredients
chemical, food and dairy industries.
to the cosmetic and personal care industry, with a
Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com
H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations. If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.
113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com
particular focus on plant-derived ingredients which support sustainable supply and fair-trade practice. We also aim to understand the needs of clients and to source the appropriate ingredient, at the right price.
www.botanichem.co.za
QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications. Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC
www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK
