FEBRUARY 2020 | Volume 47 | Number 2
www.pharmacos.co.za
“ChemSystems will now be known as AECI Specialty Chemicals” CANNABIS: Your guide to local suppliers & testing labs
What’s trending in SUN PROTECTION
PRESERVATIVES: Beat the ban with multifunctional ingredients
Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
February 2020 | Volume 47 | Number 2
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
6 NEWS
Bosch rebrands as Syntegon Technology
Dry skin meets its match with Lactobiotyl
New personal care group director for IMCD
8 PRODUCT NEWS
What’s New in South Africa
10 INDUSTRY TALK
Business finance information from FinFind
12 EVENTS
CTFA’s Cosmetic Industry Summit preview
Natural Products Expo to empower entrepreneurs
16 PRESERVATIVES
Formulation advice from Evonik Dr. Straetmans
Guidance on preserving natural face masks
20
High-quality Cannabis testing assured 31 INSPECTION & DETECTION
Vision solutions for quality and compliance
Address data security issues in manufacturing
34 HAIR CARE
Seascalp biomarine ingredient for healthy scalps
Formulate on-trend hair care products
The beauty of silicone microemulsions
Go green with waterless formulations
20 PHARMA FOCUS: CANNABIS
Chem-Science establishes a new lab
CanbiGold clinches a major deal
Turn-key solutions from Afriplex
24 SUN CARE
BASF increases UV filter production
Boost your SPF performance with Solvay
Sun care expertise from Hallstar
31
39
The beauty of silicone microemulsions 41 ASSOCIATION NEWS
Solutions
with a vision for quality and compliance
The latest developments from
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |
3
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
THE TEAM EDITORIAL
The green rush gains momentum
B
ased on the extensive range of
growth. Evonik Dr. Straetmans and Sharon
therapeutic benefits of Cannabis,
Laboratories are featured in this section.
ranging from pain and stress relief
Our bumper sun care feature on
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Contributors: Vanessa Lahn, Núria Almiñana, Elena Cañadas, Raquel Delgado, Naama Eylon, Juliana Gomiero, Darlene Menzies, Eulalia Peri, Anina van der Walt ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za
dementia and Alzheimer’s, CBD has made its
this lucrative and much needed category of
Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za
way into health supplements, oils, cosmetics
the personal care industry. Interesting reads
INTERNATIONAL SALES
and foodstuffs.
include BASF’s UV filter production capacity
Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de
to effectively managing cancer,
Although the medicinal Cannabis
page 24 reveals the latest developments in
expansion, a polymer technology from
industry is still in its infancy, it’s experiencing
Solvay that’s proven to provide SPF boosting
unprecedented levels of growth and
benefits, filters and formulation solutions from
investment. Likened to the gold rush,
Hallstar and a regulatory notification on the
Prohibition Partners says the Cannabis
EU safety update on the UV filter, S87.
green rush represents a new commercial
If you’re looking for inspection and
opportunity that will likely reach every corner
detection equipment for your manufacturing
of the globe. In South Africa, there are a
plant, we have a variety of solutions featured
variety of players already dominating the
on page 31. For hair care brands and
market. Afriplex, CanbiGold and Chem-
manufacturers of these products, the section
Science Laboratories are among them.
on page 34 includes the latest proven
Featured in our pharma focus on page 20,
ingredients for scalp care, thermal protection
Chem-Science Laboratories has established
and waterless formulations.
a dedicated Cannabis lab in KwaZulu-Natal,
We welcome your news and views, so
Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE
CanbiGold has secured a R600 million deal
please keep in touch with us. You can
with international investors to cultivate and
connect with us on social media by following
supply raw materials for export, while Afriplex
@PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview on
has established a dedicated business unit
Facebook, @SApharmacos on twitter or
specifically focused on medicinal Cannabis
@pharmacosreview on Instagram. Please
product development and manufacturing.
feel free to also send me an email. My email
Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd
address is abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za.
MANAGEMENT TEAM
Preservatives are another topical issue highlighted in the February edition of P C Review. These ingredients are needed
New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146
MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb
Enjoy the read.
COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis
in just about every personal care formulation
BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley
containing water yet choosing the best
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone
option is one of the most difficult ingredient selections formulators need to make. Turn to
HEAD OF HR: Camillah West
page 16 now, if you’re looking for formulation
CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson
advice and interesting tips on how to
HEAD OFFICE
protect your formulations from microbial
New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
John Knowlton
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Vivian Frittelli
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
4 | FEBRUARY
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
2020 | P C Review
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
NEWS
Collagen Lift wins prestigious award COLLAGEN LIFT RED Carpet Paris has won the annual beauty award, Victoire de la Beauté in France. ProlongLife is the South African distributor of the Collagen Lift Paris range of drinkable collagen. The brand has gone from strength to strength since its launch in 2016, achieving worldwide success. The Red Carpet variant has become the bestselling product in the range and is currently sold in over 30 countries. Red Carpet is the perfect combination of oral collagen and hyaluronic acid, which together become a potent formula that helps hydrate skin, adds plumpness, reduce wrinkles and encourages the growth of healthy nails. An added bonus is that it helps to reduce cellulite. The Victoire de la Beauté Award by Monadia is judged
by a panel of unbiased consumers. To qualify for a Victoire de la Beauté award, a product needs to go through a stringent quality test based on the opinion of consumer judging panel. At the end of the test period, entries are judged on overall consumer satisfaction. The beauty product that obtains the highest score is deemed the winner of the prestigious award.
Bosch Packaging is now an independent enterprise SYNTEGON TECHNOLOGY IS the new name among the market leaders in processing and packaging. Previously known as Bosch Packaging Technology, the former Bosch division now operates as an independent enterprise at the company headquarters in Waiblingen, Germany. In July 2019, Bosch disclosed its plans to sell the packaging machinery division to a newly incorporated entity managed by CVC Capital Partners (CVC). The transaction was completed according to plan, with the company gaining full independence at the turn of the year. The new owner, CVC, aims to develop the company as a whole and expand intra-group synergies. ‘CVC is delighted to see the transaction completed on schedule. Syntegon Technology has a strong presence in many market segments, great technological know-how, and
J&J maintains its top MCap spot IN Q3 OF 2019, 14 pharmaceutical companies listed in the top 20 players by Market Capitalisation (MCap) registered positive performances. However, the top five companies witnessed a five percent decline as compared to Q2, according to GlobalData. ‘Johnson & Johnson continues to maintain the top position for the top 20 list, though it witnessed a decline of 7.7 percent in its quarter on quarter (QoQ) MCap due to a landmark ruling in Oklahoma relating to the US opioid crisis, and other litigation challenges. Daiichi Sankyo was the new entrant in the top list with a MCap growth of
6 | FEBRUARY 6
2020 | P C Review
20.7 percent driven by the US$6.9 billion collaboration with AstraZeneca in March 2019,’ says Madeleine Roche, business fundamentals associate analyst at GlobalData. Daiichi Sankyo and Bristol-Myers Squibb reported more than 10 percent growth in their MCap. Other major gainers included AstraZeneca (9.4 percent) and Sanofi (7.6 percent) along with Celgene Corp (eight percent), which became a wholly owned subsidiary of BMS in November. BMS reported MCap growth of 11.8 percent in Q3 as its Celgene acquisition neared completion. Novartis and Merck & Co moved up one position in the top list, compared to Q2. Pfizer slipped down to fifth position with the announcement to merge its generic and off-patent drug segment with Mylan NV, which came up short of expectations. ‘AstraZeneca continued the MCap growth trend indicated in Q2 due to the strong sales of newer medicines. Sanofi reported a growth of 7.6 percent in Q3 as compared to a decline of 7.1 percent in its MCap in Q2,’ concludes Roche.
innovative power. We want to jointly build on these strengths with management and the entire workforce,’ says Marc Strobel, a partner at CVC. Syntegon Technology’s business focus is on intelligent and sustainable technologies for the pharmaceutical and food industries. The enterprise is pursuing two approaches to produce sustainable packaging. One is to use mono materials rather than conventional multilayer films, and the other is to use paper packaging as an alternative to plastic. Syntegon Technology supports its customers on the path to a sustainable future with material testing, machine applications and innovative packaging designed to meet the requirements of products, transport modes and regional circumstances. The company has also significantly reduced its machines’ energy consumption.
Dry skin meets its match with Lactobiotyl FOR THE DEVELOPMENT of its new care product for dry skin, Silab drew inspiration from the adaptation properties of a plant probiotic Lactobacillus arizonensis to a desert climate. Lactobiotyl is a natural postbiotic active ingredient that can restore hydration and luminosity to dry skin. It improves the integrity and renewal of the epidermal barrier while preserving the equilibrium of the cutaneous microbiota. This living micro-organism colonises jojoba, a shrub known for its adaptation to extremely dry conditions. To ensure its survival, the probiotic bio-converts molecules of its host into bioactive metabolites, commonly known as postbiotics. Working with industrial bioreactors, the team at Silab reproduced the natural environment of this bacterial species by growing it in association with its host, jojoba. This targeted bio-guiding technology has resulted in the production of bioactive molecules that constitute Lactobiotyl.
Advanced analytical techniques have enabled the identification of these bioactive molecules, namely cyclic polyols, osmo-protecting molecules known to regulate the water status of the plant in conditions of drought. In the skin, these molecules directly target dry skin, making Lactobiotyl the ideal care product to treat dry skin. Using a 3D model of reconstructed epidermis subjected to a water stress, Silab has shown that Lactobiotly activates the mechanisms required to establish an effective barrier function by stimulating epidermal differentiation and cohesion. This optimises the formation of the lipid cement by activating the expression of the lipid-synthesising enzymes GBA, ABCA12, FASN and reducing trans-epidermal water loss. Meganede is the South African agent for Silab.
NEWS
New certified natural starch NOURYON HAS INTRODUCED a certified natural starch as a replacement for petrochemical-based products in a variety of personal care applications. Amaze Nordic Barley, derived from barley starch, addresses the fast-growing consumer demand for natural, biodegradable and clean label ingredients. The product is the result of a partnership between Nouryon and Oat Services, a UK company specialising in products and technologies derived from oats. Oat Services will be the exclusive supplier of barley starch to Nouryon. ‘Amaze Nordic Barley shows excellent performance in improving the aesthetics of skin and hair care products, including dry shampoos,’ says Jens Müller, global
technical marketing manager for personal care at Nouryon. ‘It reduces the greasiness of the formulation, while leaving a pleasant after-feel. In dry shampoos, the unique shape of the barley starch provides a soft, conditioned after-feel. It is the ideal choice to develop high-performance products with minimal environmental impact.’ Larry Ryan, executive vice president of performance formulations, adds: ‘This is an important extension to our product range of native and modified starches. It also reflects our focus on working with others to develop more sustainably sourced products and helping our customers to meet growing consumer demand for more natural products.’
Evonik acquires US phytochemical company UTILISING MORE SUSTAINABLE and renewable sources for cosmetics ingredients has become an extremely important criteria that many personal care companies aim for in the market today. To meet this need, Evonik recently concluded a purchase agreement to acquire Wilshire Technologies for an undisclosed amount. Headquartered in Princeton, New Jersey, Wilshire Technologies supplies phytochemicals and derivatives to the global cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. The new home for the cosmetics part of Wilshire’s product portfolio will be in Evonik’s Care Solutions business line. Wilshire Technologies has developed a strong technology, which obtains products based on renewable and nonanimal-origin sources. This acquisition, which comprises approximately 10 employees, marks a substantial addition to Evonik’s sustainable active ingredients portfolio for cosmetics. As a result, Evonik’s Care Solutions business will be able to expand its product range into phytochemicals, such as plant derived cholesterol, as a replacement for animal originated ingredients in active ingredients for cosmetics. ‘This latest acquisition allows us to continue our efforts in fortifying the flexibility of our products and technology platforms, while providing our customers with the bio-based products their markets demand,’ says Dr Tammo Boinowitz, head of the Care Solutions business line at Evonik. This move supports the ongoing transformation of Evonik’s cosmetics ingredients portfolio towards sustainability and natural-based ingredients. ‘With Wilshire’s unique products that replace animal origin ingredients and intermediates, we are moving another
Tammo Boinowitz, Joe San Filippo and Ricardo Willemann
step forward with our development of a more diverse portfolio of sustainable active ingredients,’ Boinowitz adds. Evonik’s Health Care business line will also benefit from an enhanced portfolio for its naturally derived excipients and intermediates for pharma and food applications. With the acquisition of Wilshire Technologies and its innovative products for the cosmetics, pharmaceutical and food ingredients markets, Evonik is strengthening its focus on its Health & Care growth engine, established to meet the increasing demands from customers towards the global trend of more bio-based and sustainable products. ‘We are looking forward to expanding the presence of our products across these global industries,’ comments Joe San Filippo, CEO and founder of Wilshire Technologies. He believes Wilshire’s expertise, innovative portfolio and technologies will provide outstanding opportunities for intensifying Evonik’s competences in the fields of phytochemical ingredients and intermediates for the continuously developing cosmetic and health care industries.
Nouryon, represented locally IMCD, has been expanding its range of innovative products to customers in the personal care market, one of the company’s key growth segments. These include a recently launched bio-based polymer that is perfect for natural hair styling products and a film-forming polymer for use in longlasting, high SPF sunscreen products.
IMCD appoints new business group director for personal care ON 6 JANUARY, IMCD appointed Tony Jaillot as group business director of its personal care business group. In his role, Jaillot will lead the global IMCD personal care business group in establishing and driving the business strategy toward new growth markets in speciality ingredients distribution and exploring new partnerships and business models, while transforming IMCD personal care toward even more performance Tony Jaillot and customer orientation. Jaillot will be based at the IMCD offices in Paris and will be reporting to IMCD’s CEO, Piet van der Slikke. ‘We are very pleased to welcome Tony back to his industry career roots and have him lead one of our company’s fast-growing businesses. We are confident his extensive experience within the personal care industry will help us further develop, innovate and expand the business,’ says Van der Slikke. Jaillot adds: ‘The IMCD personal care business has always been in the forefront of providing beauty applications
and solutions. We have a very strong set of partners who deliver innovation and technology for every market category and functionalities. Combined with IMCD’s strong commercial and technical footprint, supported by increasing digital tools, we will even more and faster offer new trends-matching concepts, explore new benefits and increase product performance, to name a few.’ Jaillot is French and brings about 25 years of international and global business, strategy and management experience in the beauty industry. He started his career working for IMCD France and was until recently general manager of Cargill Beauty. He has also gained in-depth industry knowledge working for various cosmetics ingredients companies, such as BASF in the US and Europe in a variety of roles, including sales director North America beauty solutions and marketing director skin care. Jaillot holds a BSc degree in chemistry, a masters in cosmetics and a global executive MBA from the business school, Insead.
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 | 7
STREET
1
1 Advanced hyperpigmentation management
Lamelle’s Correctives Brighter Serum is the first product that manages hyperpigmentation and soothes inflammation while supporting the skin’s barrier function. This makes it ideal for managing melasma and skin barrier impairment. It also contains improved pigmentation reducing ingredients that calm irritation and inflammation.
2
4
2 Love your hands the pro way Sorbet has launched a range of professional hand creams. Developed with specialised ingredients including Q10, collagen and tissue oil, the Sorbet Salon Pro Hand & Nail range is the perfect choice for prolonged nourishment and skin glow. The deliciously rich line of targeted salon hand creams is perfect for dry, shy, chapped, cracked, tired and mature hands – and for hands that just love being loved.
3 Introducing smart skin care The first beauty brand to use the cost-effective, 100 percent green high-performance ingredient, Naatium Oleam, jessae’s range of barrier functional products is ideal for men, women and children. The range includes a survival hand cream, head to toe moisturising lotion and rescue lip balm. All the formulations contain fewer ingredients yet still perform well on the skin and offer enhanced sensory benefits.
3
4 Even tone three in one mask Bramley has extended its even tone product offering with a new three in one mask. Designed to deeply cleanse the skin, fight blemishes and control shine, while promoting even tone skin, the multi-purpose product acts as a facial cleanser, exfoliator and mask. The formulation is enriched with Kaolin clay, oil control ingredients and Bio-Pharm oil, as well as a blend of selected vitamins, such as C, E, A, B5, Niacinamide (B3).
5 Lipid replenishing face care Essential serum, ultimate cream and absolute night balm are the three product offerings in the new expert face care line from Mavala Laboratories. The formulations include some of the best ingredients from Swiss Alpine botanical treasures and are based on the science of lipid technology. Generous while remaining incredibly fine, these three products provide the essential elements for skin’s vitality and youthfulness.
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2020 | P C Review
5
2020
March
ood f
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
RE V IE W
WHAT'S ON IN
DIARY
SOUTH AFRICAN
CosmoPack + Cosmo Perfumery & Cosmetics 12 to 15 March Bologna, Italy Fair District www.cosmoprof.com/cosmopack
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INDUSTRY TALK
Business finance application tips to consider Many factors go into whether or not funders approve a loan, and not all of these are within your control. Darlene Menzies of Finfind looks at the key factors.
W
hen reviewing loan
will consider funding an owner with a
projections and the overall economic
applications, one of the
judgement on their credit record.
forecast for the country – you have no
biggest deciding factors is the probability of the loan
being repaid. Funders or credit committees
control over these factors.
Amount and affordability The loan amount needed and whether or
do not know you personally,
not you can afford the repayments
so they have to rely upon historical data to build a risk profile. Only a couple of credit bureaux provide business credit records, and since these reports are not yet standardised, the personal credit check of directors carries
DID YOU KNOW?
Your personal credit record gives funders a good indication of
maximise the return on the money they
process. The amount you
lend. One of the ways they do this is to
need will be weighed
demand collateral against the loan.
against the financial history
Should you default on the repayments, the
of the business, its asset
lender has the right to use the collateral to
base, and profitability, and whether the lender considers you can afford the cost of the finance. This is where management accounts
play an important role. They show the lender how you manage your
whether or not you’re financially responsible.
business, whether its sustainable, how much
They will examine the accounts listed on
you have invested in the business and how
your record and your ability to manage
you manage the profits.
regular payments. Judgements and
Funders always look to minimise risk and
are also crucial in the approval
If you have a need to raise business funding, visit www.finfind.co.za and complete the questionnaire. Finfind will match your needs with the most appropriate products and will provide you with a summary of the fund and how to apply.
more weight.
Security or collateral
Your balance sheet shows the assets
Interest rates are closely linked to your risk profile, so improving your risk profile can result in a better interest rate recover the cost of the loan. The amount of collateral required against a loan
blacklisting are showstoppers and reveal a
owned by the company. It’s
depends on the type of loan and your risk
breach of credit contracts.
sometimes possible for
profile. Beware – if you are also asked to
assets to be used as
sign personal surety for the business loan,
Risk and payment reputation
security for a loan.
the funder can choose to recover the
If the credit record holds inaccurate
The type of asset, its
outstanding monies from you in your
information, contact the credit bureaux and
current book value
personal capacity.
provide updated information. Know your
and whether the
credit score and problem areas and put
funder believes it has
plans in place to address these to increase
a high resale value will
are less stringent in their demands for
the score. The credit record provides this
determine whether it can be
collateral than private lenders. Get to know
information, so it’s easy to fix.
used as surety.
the different types of finance products
You are entitled to one free credit report
Interest rates are closely linked to your
Research funders carefully as some government financing agencies
available for small businesses and see
per year, so make sure you access this
risk profile, so improving your risk profile can
which ones would work for your business
and check the information is correct. If you
result in a better interest rate. There is also
and risk profile. •
don’t have any accounts, funders cannot
a difference between fixed and variable
assess your risk profile. You may need to
interest rates. Many lenders will consider
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
apply for a credit card, but use it sparingly
a fixed repayment amount, which will not
and pay the minimum repayment on the
adjust should the prime rate change.
Darlene Menzies is the CEO and founder of the innovative fintech businesses, Finfind. In 2017, she was named by the World Economic Forum as one of the six Top Female Tech Breakthrough Entrepreneurs in Africa.
due date. This starts to build a history of responsible credit use. Judgements remain on your credit record
The cost of business loans varies considerably as it’s dependent on the type of finance required, as well as a
for a fixed period of time – determined by
number of economic variables, such as
the laws of a country – and few funders
the current prime interest rate, inflation
10
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
Launched a new product in 2019/20
Make a
Statement about it 2020
New Product Competition
ENTRIES NOW OPEN C o n t a c t A b b y V o r s t e r : A b b y .V o r s t e r @ n e w m e d i a . c o . z a | + 2 7 ( 0 )11 8 7 7 6 0 3 8 P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 | 11
EVENTS
Expert speakers to present at CTFA industry summit The Cosmetic Industry Summit: Breaking Barriers in Africa will take place on 13 and 14 May, in Sandton, Johannesburg. The CTFA has secured leading international and local experts to speak at the summit.
O
rganised by the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association (CTFA) on behalf of the
South African cosmetics industry, the inaugural summit involves a partnership with the Industrial Development Corporation of South
DID YOU KNOW? The summit will provide
an excellent opportunity for networking. If you are interested in registering for the summit, please visit www.ctfa.co.za for more information.
Africa (IDC). It has also received
research and information department, speaking on barriers to trade from an economic perspective • Charles Azuka, head of global product stewardship, P&G subSaharan Africa: regulatory, human safety, clinical, market entry and expansion, speaking on barriers to
support from the Department of Trade
trade from a business perspective
and Industry (dti) and the greater
Later in the day on day one, Dr
• Brian Mureverwi, trade advisor,
cosmetics industry. The summit will
Hermogene Nsengimana, secretary
dti African Union, speaking on
take place at the IDC Conference
general of
the African Organisation
barriers to trade from a trade and
Centre, located on Fredman Drive
for Standardisation, will
legislative perspective.
in Sandton, where presenters and
enlighten delegates
On day two of the summit, one of
panel discussions will deliberate
on African Standards,
the panel discussions will focus on
ways to stimulate harmonisation
Conformity Assessment
possible convergence solutions in
and ease trade within the
& Procedures to reduce
terms of harmonisation and breaking
African continent.
technical barriers
barriers in Africa,
to trade.
facilitated by
Keynote addresses After an official welcome from the chairperson of the CTFA, the summit will kick off with a keynote presentation by Dr Martyn Davies,
The keynote speaker confirmed for day Dr Gerald Renner, Cosmetics Europe
Ian Patterson, CEO, strategist
two of the
and strategic
seminar is Dr
change facilitator,
Gerald Renner,
SMC Group. The
managing director, emerging markets
director of technical regulatory affairs
speakers featured
at Africa, Deloitte & Touche. Dr Davies
at Cosmetics Europe in Belgium.
on this panel
Dr Renner will share a regulatory
discussion include:
overview, trends analysis and
• Richard Sadiki,
Presenters and panel discussions will deliberate ways to stimulate harmonisation and ease trade within the African continent
discussion on the synergies between
SABS international
Europe, America, China and Asia.
relations specialist (SADCSTAN and ARSO), speaking on harmonisation
Panel discussions
practicalities of globally
discussions, featuring
harmonised regulations/ •
Africa and abroad.
focus on barriers to
of the beauty and personal care
trade in Africa. Members
sectors on the African continent by
of the panel include:
Euromonitor International’s associate
• Xoliswa Jafta, IDC’s
a representative from the AfCFTA Committee discussing
On day one of the panel discussions will
2020 | P C Review
standards
industry experts from
Risk’ in his presentation. This will be
12 | FEBRUARY 12
• Dr Renner, speaking about the
is centred on panel
summit, one of the
research analyst, Gugu Mahlangu.
through standards for optimal trade
A large portion of the programme
will shine a ‘Spotlight on Africa Trade followed by a statistical overview
Richard Sad iki of SAB S
the future role of AfCFTA in the African Convergence Xol iswa Jaf ta, IDC ’s sen ior econom ist
senior economist: economic
•
a representative from the South African National Department of Health talking about South Africa in the
African convergence. •
EVENTS
Expo to empower local producers
Based on the theme ‘once a trend: now mainstream’, the Organic & Natural Products Expo 2020 takes place from 8 to 10 May in Johannesburg at the Wanderers Stadium.
T
he Organic & Natural Products
Strategic global alliance
credibility, but also allows us to
Expo is the first show in Africa
The Organic & Natural Products Expo
benefit from lessons learnt in Europe,’
dedicated to the organic and
has partnered with three international
Thomson comments.
natural industry. The expo
is committed to growing the industry, and as such, pursuing a healthier and fairer world. ‘With its unparalleled biodiversity of plant life, Africa is a treasure trove of sustainable and unique raw materials
counterparts to form the ground-
DID YOU KNOW?
breaking Organic Trade Fairs
A major benefit of the alliance is that it
objective is to raise
opens doors for African producers and
awareness and promote The market for natural and organic products is booming. a model which is Over the past two decades healthy in all aspects, organic food and drink sales internationally have environmentally sound, increased from less than takes into account global USD$15 billion to almost USD$90 billion. climate concerns and is
and products unobtainable
respectful of labour rights.
elsewhere in the world. These
Opportunities for SMEs
Alliance. The common
The organisers of the four fairs
suppliers to access export markets via the alliance partners’ buyer databases and joint promotion efforts. The Organic and Natural Products Expo is set to showcase manufacturers, suppliers, importers and exporters of everything from organic and natural foods and beverages to cosmetics,
products are also in great demand
have committed to providing marketing
supplements, ingredients and household
worldwide,’ says John Thomson of South
platforms and global knowledge
and gardening products.
Africa Trade Promotions – the organisers
exchange forums, to effectively support
of the expo.
the ambitions of the natural and
Wesgro, the City of Johannesburg and
organic sector.
various chambers of commerce are
‘Our goal is not only to showcase these products locally at the event, but to
The Department of Trade & Industry,
‘Being a member of the Organic
developing a series of pavilions within the
create global awareness and viable and
and Trade Fair Alliance not only gives
expo which will offer maximum exposure
long-term export opportunities.’
our South African event international
and opportunities for SME exhibitors. •
AT LAST !!
AN EVENT LONG OVERDUE IN SOUTH AFRICA....... SUPPORTED BY
THE DECK. WANDERERS STADIUM, CORLETT DRIVE ILLOVO, JOHANNESBURG MAY 8th, 9th, 10th 2020
MEDIA PARTNERS
EXHIBITION PROFILE Food & Beverages Ingredients & Raw Materials Vegan - Halaal - Kosher Supplements Cosmetics & Beauty products Personal care & Hygiene products Home care Organic gardening & farming .....and more
Local & International Buyers
60 Bo % S ok OL No D w!
Over 10 000 consumer visitors to sell to Exhibitor Enquiries: John.t@satp.co.za
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |
13
COMPANY FOCUS
At the forefront of sustainable innovation
As a responsible business, ChemSystems is committed to enabling environmental solutions that will allow for a sustainable future. The company is driven by the ‘AECI Bigger’ values of going green, being engaged and acting responsibly. This is evident in a series of internal developments, which, in the long run, will benefit people, the planet and the industries it serves.
C
hemSystems has always
partners across the globe. By
been a strong player in
combining core scientific expertise
the consumer specialities
with a deep understanding
market, servicing over
of market needs, the
1 200 customers nationally and
company strives to
globally. ChemSystems’ 60-year
deliver raw materials
history is built on a reputation of
that are safe, effective
passion and commitment to creating
and sustainable.
lasting, relevant partnerships with its
AECI is currently
employees, customers and suppliers.
active in 32 countries
Remaining agile in a tough economic
within Africa. The AECI
environment is a key strength for its
Specialty Chemicals
continued success.
business, with its existing
alternatives, test replacement preservative challenge tests
DID YOU KNOW?
and provide a certificate of analysis. Using Troy biocides,
By embracing the spirit of transformation, AECI Specialty Chemicals is a Level 2 BBBEE contributor
technology partners, will be
ChemSystems will now be taking on a stronger AECI identity with the new name, AECI Specialty Chemicals
ingredients, conduct
leveraging AECI’s existing footprint to
the lab can also test process water and conduct hygiene audits for customers within their manufacturing facilities,
in order to suggest the right biocide to mitigate contamination risks.
offer a complete basket of products to the cosmetics and home care markets.
A creative and driven team AECI Specialty Chemicals constantly
New microbiological lab
strives to offer better and more
To expand its service offering to
sustainable solutions in every part of its
customers, AECI Specialty Chemicals
business. Over the past 12 months, it has
established a new microbiological
made significant appointments to boost
lab in 2019 which is supported
its already diverse and flexible teams,
ChemSystems will now be taking on
by Troy Chemical Corporation, a
which drive internal efficiencies and
a stronger AECI identity with the new
leading preservative and biocide
monitor costs to ensure the company
name, AECI Specialty Chemicals. The
manufacturer. The lab is fully
remains competitive within the market.
company will continue to provide raw
equipped to service a variety of
materials that meet the changing
industries. Global regulatory advice
knowledge and formulation expertise
demands of the cosmetics, home care
and hygiene auditing are also
to assist customers with product
and pharmaceutical industries.
available as a service to customers.
development and frugal innovation
As a proud subsidiary of AECI,
AECI was registered in South Africa
These teams have extensive product
According to Jacques Strydom,
to reduce the complexity and cost of
in 1924 and has been listed on the
technical manager for personal care
producing products. This high level of
JSE since 1996. Since inception,
and home care, the lab has been
creativity and expertise are essential
partnerships have been the heart of
launched as a support function for
to helping customers bring their ideas
its business model – with customers
customers, for development and
to life without passing on the costs
and working closely with its technology
stability testing, to develop formulation
to consumers.
14
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
COMPANY FOCUS
HYDRATE AND RESTORE THE HAIR AND SKIN TRI-K INDUSTRIES, a technology partner of AECI, Specialty Chemicals, launched Hemp Tein Z NPNF – a new protein dedicated to balancing hair and skin health. This novel protein targets the mega health and wellness movement in two ways: by providing a label friendly, on-trend ingredient and delivering proven benefits for skin homeostasis and hair health. Hemp is described as a superfood and the only vegetable protein with all the essential amino acids required by the human body. It’s used in everything from pharma products to paper, contributing to over 50 000 finished products currently on the market. Beauty products launched with hemp or cannabis claims increased by 127 percent in 2019, according to a Mintel GNPD search. Hemp Tein Z NPNF harnesses the power of this unique plant to provide potent benefits for skin and hair. It restores epidermal homeostasis, enhances hydration and improves skin texture. After 14 days, clinical study results showed Hemp Tein Z NPNF visibly reduced wrinkles and scaliness by 14 and 32 percent respectively, while increasing skin homogeneity by 30 percent for a more uniform, vibrant and rejuvenated appearance. In hair care, it strengthens fibres, increases hair’s elasticity and repairs cuticles after chemical damage. Evaluations on bleached Caucasian hair cleansed with a shampoo and rinse-off conditioner showed Hemp Tein Z NPNF increased hair strength by 18 percent and elasticity by 11 percent. When viewed under scanning electron microscopy, hair fibres treated with Hemp Tein Z NPNF were visibly smoother and more cohesive, leaving it looking healthier and more resilient. Hemp Tein Z NPNF is an environmental and label friendly product, which is pending Cosmos approval. It’s made from recycled biomass created during the process used to extract hemp oil. Derived from the seeds of the Cannabis Sativa plant, Hemp Tein Z NPNF is organically sourced, water soluble, non-GMO and free from gluten, THC and CBD.
With its manufacturing capabilities at AECI ChemPark, AECI Specialty Chemicals is equipped to produce concentrated blends for customer specific products. This offers added value to customers, which also benefit from the company’s basket of tailormade solutions. AECI Specialty Chemicals recognises that customers have different needs and these needs change, therefore the AECI personal care and home care team, together with the
Lydia Letsoalo, technical service chemist; Jacques Strydom, technical manager; and Davina Pillay, microbiologist
creativity and innovation of the technology partners, continues to offer win-win solutions for customers,
Charmaine Du Preez, personal care product manager at ChemSystems
suppliers and its own business.
Responsible and compliant
Fund, which supports a number of
Located at AECI ChemPark, in Kempton
enterprise and supplier development
Park, Gauteng, AECI Specialty
initiatives in the AECI value chain.
Chemicals is proud of its accreditations,
Another significant achievement
certifications and ongoing compliance.
for AECI Specialty Chemicals was
In 2019, AECI attained a zero TRIR or
the Chemical and Allied Industries’
total recordable injury rate, living up its
Association (CAIA) responsible care
‘zero harm’ mandate. The group is also
award, awarded to its Umbogintwini
ISO 9001, 14001, 18001 approved and
site in November 2019. The award
has been rated a Level 2 Broad-Based
recognises the achievement of
Black Economic Empowerment (B-BBEE)
companies that go above and beyond
Contributor. This is significant for AECI,
the responsible management of
which, as a group, has progressed
chemical products and processes. •
significantly from Level 8 to Level 2 in just two years. Its progress has been assisted by better reporting, more investment in skills development and
AECI Specialty Chemicals – charmaine.dupreez@aeciworld.com Jacques.Strydom@aeciworld.com
training as well as the Good Chemistry
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |
15
PRESERVATIVES
Formulation advice in a time of fading preservative options With listed preservatives, ensuring the safe and reliable preservation of cosmetics is becoming increasingly challenging. In response, Evonik offers the dermosoft and Verstatil lines − two safe and effective solutions for antimicrobial protection of cosmetics, fulfilling the requirements of each formulator. By Vanessa Lahn of Evonik Nutrition & Care
F
or a long time, questions
off products, which led to a general ban
necessary, recommends restricting the
regarding the right preservative
of MDBG in 2007 and its deletion from
application of a preservative or even to
system in cosmetics have been
Annex V.1
delete it completely from Annex V.
European legislators created a list of
Complications in the mix
reports on other popular preservatives
approved preservatives, called Annex
Cosmetic products, emulsions
listed in Annex V. It is well conceivable
V of the EU Cosmetic Regulation. It is
especially, offer ideal growth conditions
that these reports might also lead to
comparable with the Annex IV of the
for microorganisms and need to be
restrictions or prohibitions in the future.
South- African cosmetic regulation – Act
preserved. Preservation is achieved
No. 54 OF 1972.
by antimicrobial ingredients whose
factor determining the fate of a
neglected by most formulators.
These annexes are filled with a wide
So far, the SCCS has conducted several
Public perception is another important
properties also bear a potential for
preservative. Media reports and blogs
range of substances selected with
undesirable side effects. Because of
can quickly discredit the reputation of a
respect to their antimicrobial efficacy.
an animal testing ban anchored in
preservative in the eyes of the consumer.
Beyond this, they often showed little
the European Cosmetic Regulation,
The case of parabens is a perfect
influence on the physical parameters of
the development and listing of new
example, even though scientific data
the finished product. This comfortable
preservatives has become extremely
has reaffirmed their safety at the legal
situation has fundamentally changed
difficult. These developments have limited
usage concentrations.
in recent years as it turned out many
the selection of preservatives and are
of these listed preservatives exhibited
complicating the development of new
skin irritating or sensitising potentials. As
cosmetic products.
a consequence, the application of a
The current version of the positive list for
Reformulating with smart systems There are two considerations for
growing number of listed preservatives
preservatives is Annex V of the 1223/2009/
developers of cosmetics to adjust their
has been restricted or in some cases
EG Cosmetic Regulation. The most
preservative system in a formulation.
preservatives were even eliminated from
recent update to this annex occurred in
They can either alter their existing
the list.
December 2019, when Hydroxyethoxy-
preservative system according to the
Phenyl Butanone (HEPB) was added as
new regulations, or they exchange
of a preservative’ in Annex V is
a new preservative approved for use
problematic preservatives and rebuild
Methyldibromoglutaronitrile (MDBG).
in cosmetic products at a maximum
their preservative system from scratch. The
In 1983, after its admission, MDBG was
concentration of 0.7 percent in ready for
latter solution is more labour-intensive,
well-accepted amongst formulators, due
use preparations.2
but in the long term some interesting
A good example of this ‘lifecycle
to its reliable antimicrobial properties
The approval of new preservatives
marketing opportunities may arise. In
and good price-performance ratio. In
in Annex V is a complex procedure,
the end, a smartly designed preservative
the course of its popularity, MDBG was
including extensive toxicological
concept helps to avoid bad press and
increasingly incorporated in cosmetics
studies. Once approved, preservatives
prevents consumers from having to adapt
products. However its extensive use
are subject to supervision by regional
to future restrictions or public pressure. This
correlated with an increased number
authorities. They collect data about
raises the question – what does a smart
of reported cases of contact allergies.
observed side effects and hand in this
preservative system such as this looks like?
In 2005, the Scientific Committee on
information to the SCCS of the European
Consumer Safety (SCCS) recommended
Commission. This committee of experts
for globally approved raw materials,
a restriction of MDBG application to rinse-
evaluates the existing data and, if
economic interests and expectations
16
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
Marketing claims, regulatory demands
PRESERVATIVES about the production process influence the decision. To circumnavigate the use of critical preservatives, Evonik offers, under the Verstatil line, a range of non critisised listed preservatives in combination with synergistically acting multifunctional additives. For instance, Verstatil TBG MB
A smartly designed preservative concept helps to avoid bad press
introduces triethyl citrate as an innovative solvent system for preservation blends in cosmetics, together with the listed
Functional ingredients might also interact and disturb the preservation
preservative benzoic acid and a surface-active wetting
system. These include pigments, lecithins, polar oils, UV filters or aloe
agent from the dermosoft range. This broadband effective
vera. To avoid these incompatibilities, sound formulating know-how
blend is an economic and reliable solution for certified
and a general understanding of the applied ingredients are essential.
natural cosmetics.
Based on many years’ experience in the field of alternative and modern preservation, Evonik Dr. Straetmans provides solutions
Antimicrobial multifunctionals
for a variety of problems. In addition, it offers blends with a broad
The dermosoft line includes a variety of multifunctional
antimicrobial activity, such as dermosoft OMP, dermosoft MCAV MB
raw materials and blends, not listed as preservatives under
or Verstatil BOB. These blends are easy to apply and can be used
Annex V of the European Cosmetic Regulation. These
in a wide range of product concepts. In South Africa, Evonik Dr.
multifunctionals also offer more than the opportunity to
Straetmans is now represented by Orchem. •
work without listed preservatives. The group of established organic acids and wetting agents provides additional
REFERENCES
cosmetic benefits such as moisturising, co-emulsifying or co-
1. Commission Directive 2007/17/EC, Annex VI
solubilising as well as antimicrobial activity. The high surface
2. 1223/2009/EG Cosmetic Regulation, Annex V
activity of amphiphilic wetting agents, such as dermosoft GMCY MB and dermosoft Octiol, destabilises microbial cell membranes and, when incorrectly applied, can also account for instabilities of emulsions in a concentrationdependent way. At lower concentrations, wetting agents can actively support the development of stable emulsions
ABOUT THE AUTHOR Vanessa Lahn is business development manager product protection at Evonik Nutrition & Care, based in Hamburg, Germany.
and provide good antimicrobial protection. Synergies with other multifunctionals, such as the organic acids from the dermosoft range, can also be explored. The synergistic antimicrobial effect between relatively low concentrations of wetting agents and organic acids, like dermosoft anisate, is the result of wetting agents altering the permeability of the microbial cell membrane thereby allowing the organic acids to penetrate more easily into the microorganisms where it unfolds its antimicrobial efficacy.
Understanding ingredient interactions Besides the destabilisation effects on emulsions, interactions between ingredients can also influence the effectiveness of a preservation system. Surface active wetting agents, for example, have limited antimicrobial activity in rinse-off products because they tend to interact with the micelle structures of the surfactants in the product, deactivating them.
Protect your formulations with cosmetic preservatives from ISCA UK, proudly distributed in South Africa by Chempack Industries.
Chempack Industries | Contact: Linda Thieme | 083 600 0167 / 064 610 2736 | Email: linda@cpack.co.za | Website: www.cpack.co.za
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |
17
PRESERVATIVES
Preserving the impossible: natural-based face masks
Cleansing masks enriched with natural ingredients such as mud and clay are considered especially challenging to preserve. Naama Eylon of Sharon Laboratories shows how understanding hurdles and evaluating different systems can bring solutions to this interesting segment.
F
acial masks are a trendy, growing
Table 1: Dead sea mud face mask formulation guide
contamination, while keeping in mind the sensitive facial area and usage
segment in personal
patterns of facial masks. Sharon
care yet the preservation
Laboratories has developed a
of these products is not an
potential solution that offers high
easy task. Each type of mask
efficacy along with much needed
has different challenges to
flexibility. This solution is based
overcome. For example, sheet
on the company’s extensive work
masks, where the fabric adds
done on facial masks applications,
to the complexity, require a
starting with the raw materials and
different approach than face
progressing onto formulations. The study suggests that working
masks in a clear gel form. For masks that should be left on the
with specifically enhanced
skin for a duration of 20 minutes
preservative systems will provide
and applied on sensitive areas,
broad spectrum protection for
irritation is a major concern.
both the mud itself as well as the face mask formulation. The
Masks containing mud and clay are highly preferred
solution required is a high efficacy
cleansing facial masks.
system, allowing a significantly
Based on their use of natural
reduced use level, generating
ingredients, they are considered ‘safe’ by consumers. This isn’t
the industry standard to treat
surprising as it’s a common perception
mud, as very few acceptable
that natural is better or safer in beauty
preservatives can meet the
products. But just because an ingredient
challenge to eliminate the
originates from nature, doesn’t mean it’s
microbial risk.
safe for use.
The preservation of facial masks is a balancing act For mud and clay, it is even more critical,
as these ingredients can carry everything
Even when the material is sterile, as it is introduced to the formula, the interaction with water could generate a preservation issue. Combining the original state of the raw materials and its interaction in the formula raises the need for a high efficacy solution.
originating from the ground, including would not know the origin of the mud
Balancing high efficacy and sensitivity
and how is it processed or treated. A
The preservation of facial masks
typical bacteria count in mud could be
is a balancing act – delivering
10 5 to 10^7. A costly radiation process is
efficacy against microbial
microorganisms. Often, the formulator
18
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
Table 2: Bentonite and kaolin face mask formulation guide
PRESERVATIVES Figure 1
Figure 2
the benefits of higher compatibility
system used at a level of 0.7 percent. Figure
and reduced risk of irritation. All the
1 shows show the great results of both tests
isn’t guaranteed with naturally derived
preservative systems mentioned in the
– after 48 hours all five microorganisms had
ingredients. In fact, in the world of
case studies were tested and found to be
a significant log reduction to <10, showing
preservation, this is often the opposite.
suitable for sensitive skin.
the flexibility of the system to handle high
Masks with mud and minerals
When formulating cleansing facial
risk material while meeting market needs for
masks with natural ingredients, all of the
low usage levels.
above must be taken into account to
Using another enhanced preservation
A chosen preservative system (INCI:
The results of these tests show safety
search for the right solution to answer
Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl
system, (INCI Phenoxyethanol,
efficacy, formula compatibility, product
Glycol, Didecyldimonium Chloride
Ethylhexylglycerin, Didecyldimonium
claims, regulatory compliance and of
– patent pending) was used at one
Chloride – patent pending), the
course, safety. •
percent on untreated, non-radiated
aforementioned study was performed on a
mud sourced from the Dead Sea area.
bentonite and kaolin face mask (see Table
The test generated TMAC results of <10,
2) with similar positive results.
avoiding the costly radiation process and circumventing the need to change
Free-from claims
from an existing harsh preservative to a
To answer the call for free-from
consumer-oriented option.
preservation needs in facial cleansing
The next step involved testing the efficacy
masks, a similar study was done on
of the chosen preservative in a formulation
a phexnoyethanol-free system (INCI:
containing 20 percent Dead Sea mud (see
Methylpropanediol, Caprylyl Glycol,
Table 1). A challenge test was performed
Polyquaternium-80, Didecyldimonium
on non-radiated mud preserved with one
Chloride – patent-pending). This system,
percent of the chosen preservative system.
used on the same tough to preserve
An additional challenge test was carried
formulation containing 20 percent mud,
out on a formulation with 20 percent
successfully protected the product at a
treated mud, preserved with the same
level of 0.8 percent (see Figure 2).
ABOUT THE AUTHOR Naama Eylon is the vice president of personal care at Sharon Laboratories. She has been in global business development and marketing with leading international manufacturing companies for over 15 years. Eylon specialises in bringing new products from concept to reality.
CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Sharon Laboratories – www.sharon-labs.com
High efficacy preservative solution for facial masks enriched with natural ingredients
It’s a matter of balance
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |
19
PHARMA FOCUS//Cannabis FOCUS
High-quality Cannabis testing assured Chem-Science Laboratories has announced the establishment of its dedicated Cannabis laboratory in KwaZulu-Natal.
CHEM-SCIENCE AND BIO-SCIENCE LABORATORIES The business was started in the Durban North home of Vic Soffiantini, an experienced and qualified analytical chemist. Soffiantini has extensive experience analysing fertilisers, chemicals and Chem-Science Laboratories’ chief chemist, Simon Thompson performing the initial steps of a Cannabis sample analysis
M
working in the sugar and dairy industries. He also worked in various consulting laboratories. In 1991, the company moved to bigger premises at John Ross House in central Durban.
anaging director, Vic
include final powders, tinctures and
During this time, many science students did their
Soffiantini says this
oil extracts.
successful in-service training with the company.
Compliant and service orientated
premises in Umbilo Road, Durban.
Cannabis industry has created for local
Chem-Science Laboratories can perform a
of two laboratories – the one chemical and the
high-quality testing.
full spectrum test on customers’ products,
other, microbiological.
In 2004, the laboratories moved to larger
development is a direct result of the need to
meet the requirements the exploding
We have invested in specialised equipment and professionals to bring cannabis testing online ‘We have invested in specialised
providing them with conclusive data on the
equipment and professionals to bring
potency, pesticide, residual solvent and
Cannabis testing online,’ he enthuses.
terpenes, using on one test sample. ‘We aim to be a recognised accredited
‘Good Laboratory Practice is in place to ensure correct control throughout
laboratory that complies with the current
the laboratory via our ISO 9001 Quality
Good Laboratory Practice and ISO/IEC
Management System.’
17025,’ Soffiantini concludes. •
Quantitative assays will be used to ascertain the volume of THC, CBD, CBC, CBG and /or CBN in the respective
Chem-Science Laboratories – www.chemsciencelaboratories.com
Chem-Science Laboratories initially consisted
In March 2003, the microbiology laboratory broke away from Chem-Science Laboratories to become a separate legal entity known as BioScience Technologies. Due to rapid expansion, it was necessary to upgrade the legal identity of the small business. Chem-Science Laboratories became a fully established company in 2012. To date, both companies have trained well over 100 students and graduates. Soffianti and his team are committed to establishing a competent base of future technologists and scientists for South African industries and research laboratories.
identification samples. Samples can
Comprehensive Cannabis Testing Including Potency & Microbiological Screening Now Available! Quantitative Potency testing of THC and CBD on your flower / bud, oils and edibles. Comprehensive Cannabinoid testing THCA; THC; CBDA; CBD; CBN; CBC & CBG. As well as screening for the toxic Terpenes!
Also, as required by some growers, dispensers, doctors and clinicians: Residual Solvents, Chemical Contamination and toxic Heavy Metals Pesticide Residue Screening Microbiological examinations: Yeast, Mould, Aspergillus, Salmonella, Coliforms & E.coli.
“Chem-Science aims to be a recognized accredited laboratory that complies with the current Good Laboratory Practice and ISO/IEC 17025.” Contact us: info@chemsciencelaboratories.com or phone 031 206-1390.
20
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
PHARMA FOCUS//Cannabis FOCUS
A golden perspective on medical marijuana
Although the medicinal Cannabis industry is still in its infancy, it’s experiencing unprecedented levels of growth and investment. CanbiGold is positioned to positively impact this rapid expansion with its expertise in the design, modification and manufacture of unique modular growth units for the industry. By Abby Vorster
A
ccording to a new report by Grand View Research, the size of the global legal Cannabis market is expected to reach
US$66.3 billion by the end of 2025. It’s anticipated to expand at a CAGR of 23.9 percent during the forecast period with increasing legalisation and the use of marijuana in medical applications driving this growth. Based on the extensive range of
A graphical representation of a CanbiGold fortress
therapeutic benefits of Cannabis, ranging from pain and stress relief to effectively managing cancer, dementia and Alzheimer’s, CBD has made its way
significant portion of land, while R&D and the
development of CBD-infused tampons to
into health supplements, oils, cosmetics
production of 99 percent CBD products take
assist women with menstrual pain and
and foodstuffs.
place in its Cape Town based laboratory,
cramping. Working with brand owner, Foxy
under pharmaceutical conditions.
Pink, the two companies developed the
Leon van der Linde, CEO of
unique tampon, which is said to provide
Major global investment One of the first South African businesses
CanbiGold, says the past 12 months
users with a soothing, tension-melting
to capitalise on the ‘green gold rush’ is
have been significant for the business.
effect, delivering 10mg of CBD directly to
CanbiGold. Based in the Western Cape,
In November 2019, the company took
the area where it’s needed most.
CanbiGold is a vertically integrated,
part in The Cannabis Expo at the Sandon
private company that specialises in the
Convention Centre where it secured a
include blending African and Cannabis
cultivation and production of medicinal
whopping R600 million deal with Koomo
extracts together in nutraceutical
cannabis and related products utilising
Capital, an investment business from
formulations to help curb the symptoms of
unique patented intellectual property.
the US, and Canngea, Australia’s only
various ailments, including insomnia, IBS,
It has also developed unique modular
medical cannabis licensed contract
crohn’s disease and colon cancer.
growth units, which meet international
manufacturing organisation.
Additional R&D efforts of the company
CanbiGold is also researching alternative ways to medicate with CBD
ISO standards, allowing new or current ventures to scale up on growing,
Innovation and R&D
such as inhalation, electronic cigarettes
vegetation, flowering and drying modules
CanbiGold is also making significant
and absorption via the vaginal tract. •
as necessary.
inroads in Cannabis-based nutraceutical
CanbiGold’s cultivation occurs in the
and health and wellness product
Maseru Special Economic Zone in Lesotho
development. Van der Linde says the
where the company has secured a
company played a pivotal role in the
CanbiGold – www.canbigold.com
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |
21
PHARMA FOCUS//Cannabis FOCUS
Turn-key solutions for the medical Cannabis industry Afriplex strives to provide clients with innovative and unique product offerings for the CAMs, botanicals and food and beverage markets. With this in mind, it is always pursuing new areas of research and technological development to retain its competitive edge.
B
In 2019, Afriplex showcased its services at the CannaTech Summit. This prestigious international event focussed on the Cannabis industry and took place in Cape Town from 24 to 26 November
ecoming a significant role player
international research institutions. One
in the fast-growing South African
such project involves assisting the institute
Cannabis industry was a natural
with the integration of its new South African
systems are being developed. Afriplex is
progression for Afriplex and led to
developed track and trace system using
focused on utilising several state-of-the-
Afriplex’s quality management system.
art nanotechnologies to develop unique
the establishment of a dedicated business division mainly focussed on medical
This will ensure comprehensive traceability
dosage forms with emphasis on controlled
Cannabis product development and
of Cannabis materials and products in
API release and improved bioavailability.
manufacturing. The company also offers
African countries where Afriplex offers
We are proud to announce the
other services to this market, such as the
custom-built facilities and technologies.
commercialisation of a new brand, known as Lipozome®. This technology will enable
design and construction of cultivation and processing facilities, toll processing services
Smart drug delivery R&D
improved bioavailability, better protection
and analytical services.
The company is also investing in
against degradation, unpleasant flavour
the development of smart drug
masking and targeted drug delivery.’
Afriplex is proud to be the dedicated Cannabis testing laboratory for the Cannabis Research Institute (CRI). In
delivery methods. Danie Nel, MD of Afriplex, comments:
Afriplex and its partners are currently scaling up production on a new multimillion-
addition to maintaining rigorous Cannabis
‘The method by which a drug is delivered
rand facility with scheduled release for the
testing standards for locally produced
can have a significant effect on its efficacy.
third quarter of 2020. •
and imported product, Afriplex also
To minimise drug degradation, prevent
conducts several novel research projects
harmful side-effects and increase drug
in collaboration with the CRI and other
bioavailability, various delivery and targeting
22
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
Afriplex – www.afriplex.co.za
fulfilling the dream of more natural sunscreens — antaron™ eco ethylcellulose
New Antaron™ ECo ethylcellulose is a nature-derived film former that provides excellent water resistance in light feeling emulsions and sprays. ashland.com/eco
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® Registered trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries ™ Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries ©2020, Ashland PHC20-140
SUN CARE
BASF increases UV filter production capacities
Highly effective and reliable UV filters, a special oil and emulsifier selection for formulations with great sensory appeal, products for all skin types and each exposure level – BASF’s sun care segment develops trendsetting solutions for the growing skin protection market. The company draws on proven expertise to address consumers’ innermost needs – such as trusted protection and effective long-term damage prevention.
A
s market leader in producing
home to the global competence centre for
introduced a methodology to
UV filters and ingredients used
the development of new UV filters and the
assess the environmental impact
in sun care products, BASF is
company’s technical service, which advises
of sunscreen formulations.
undertaking various production
producers of sunscreen products around
Consumers are increasingly aware of
expansion activities for its UV filters, to
the world on the best filter combinations
the impact sunscreens can have on
continue to support the global market
and formulations.
demand and customer growth worldwide. Reducing bottlenecks at its production
Ludwigshafen, several
sites Grenzach and Ludwigshafen was a first
UV filters of the Uvinul
step in the expansion plan and will lead to
product range are
double digit percent increase of production
produced. Tinosorb
capacities, for example, for the value chains
S is produced at the
of Tinosorb S, Uvinul A Plus and Uvinul T150.
Kaohsiung site
The global demand for modern UV filters increased in recent years, driven by the
ecosystems, with an emphasis on
At the production site in
in Taiwan. BASF is the world’s
DID YOU KNOW?
the wellbeing of coral reefs and they are also willing
Tinosorb S is excellent in UVA and UVB absorption and is used as a standard for high SPF sunscreens. Uvinul A Plus is perfect in absorbing UVA radiation, whereas Uvinul T150 is the most efficient UVB filter in the market.
to consider and adapt their own consumption. In response, some brands have begun labelling their sun care products according to the biodegradability of specific ingredients. This
growing awareness of the importance of
leading provider of
sun care for optimal skin health and due
ingredients used in UV
to certain reformulation trends, such as the
protection products. Four of the last
move towards octocrylene-free products
five UV filters approved for use in the EU
wearing sunscreen swims in the sea, the
in Europe.
have been developed by the company. Its
product comes in contact with the marine
portfolio of sun protection products includes
life. Yet research and different studies
a wide range of care ingredients used in the
looking at the impact of sun care products
production of sunscreens.
on coral are still in their infancy.
when applied in combination, set a
Environmental considerations
asked for help to find solutions in terms of
benchmark for broad spectrum protection.
Based on a sense of environmental
which ingredients are harmful and what the
Its facility in Grenzach produce UV filters
responsibility, scientific discipline and
cumulative impact is on the environment
used in sunscreen products. The site is also
sensitivity to consumers’ wishes, BASF has
when a range of ingredients are put
Setting a benchmark BASF’s expansion activities concentrate
approach is incomplete and even misleading. When a person
The entire personal care industry is being
on three aforementioned UV filters, which,
together to make a formulation? For these reasons, BASF has launched the EcoSun Pass, which provides customers with a solution to test the effects of their products on various relevant environmental factors such as water, sediment and soil. •
BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com
24
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
Now in South Africa
Solvay is a multi-specialty chemical company, committed to developing chemistry that addresses key societal challenges. Solvayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main objective in Personal Care is to support its customers with technical solutions on surfactants, natural & synthetic polymers, fragrances and precipitated silica to provide end market solutions. Hence, Solvay develops and manufactures a broad range of solutions that delivers benefits to support its customers success.
CONTACT US Solomon L. Lamola T: +27 12 349 5150 M: +27 63 502 1621 C102 The Woods, 41 Dehavilland Cresc Persequor Park, 0020, Pretoria www.solvay.com
SUN CARE
Boost your SPF performance Scientific studies have proven that wearing sun protection products on a regular basis can protect skin against cancer. But how do formulators resolve formulation challenges to meet the growing demand for high SPF (>30) in daily-wear skin care products and colour cosmetics?
A
ccording to Solvay, the demand for sun care products with a higher SPF is as a direct result of
consumers increased awareness of the ageing effects of sun exposure. Consumers also want these higher SPF products at more affordable prices and with improved sensorial
Table 1: Solvay Formulation SC-16-065
Ingredient Isohexadecane
4.0
Ethylhexyl Cocoate
6.0
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV-B
6.0
Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane**
UV-B
4.0
Phenylbenzimidazoyl Sulfonate (30% active)
UV-B
10.0
benefits, such as non-sticky, light in
Rheomer SC-Plus
6.0
texture and easy to apply.
Water
g.s.
Concerns surrounding the safety of ingredients are also growing
Total UV Filters Active
13
with formulators seeking to use less
Calculated/Exp SPF
18
or none at all of the ingredients
In vivo SPF***
46
considered controversial. Rheomer SC-Plus (INCI Acrylates/
Rheomer SC-Plus is a patented polymer providing excellent SPF boosting properties
Sun care product formulation with organic UV Filters
Beheneth-25 Methacrylate
properties when formulated with
elevated rheology benefits. In vivo
Copolymer) is a patented polymer
organic, or a combination of organic
studies indicate an SPF increase of as
providing excellent SPF boosting
and inorganic UV filters. It also has
much as 2.5 times of the estimated SPF value, enabling the formulation of high SPF products with a lower dosage of sunscreen actives. Rheomer SC-Plus from Solvay Polymers and Chemicals South Africa exhibits excellent SPF boosting performance, as shown in Figure 1. This polymer works exceptionally well
Key benefits of Rheomer SC-Plus • SPF boosting of up to 155%** • excellent suspension ability as it stabilises o/w systems containing particles • outstanding emulsification and thickening in o/w emulsions • good electrolyte tolerance as it stabilises electrolyte containing o/w formulations • improved sensory benefits such as a smooth, non-tacky feel after dry down • supplied in liquid form for ease of use during processing • cold-processable, which saves energy during processing.
26
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
SUN CARE
Innovative applications
Figure 1
Powerful suspending ability A yield value is typically used
RHEOMER SC-PLUS is suitable for
as an indication of a polymer’s
use in sun care products containing
ability to suspend particles.
organic UV filters (oil and water
Therefore, the higher the yield,
soluble), and combination organic and
the better the suspending ability.
inorganic UV filters.
As shown in Figure 4, Rheomer
It is also ideal for multi-functional
SC-Plus exhibits concentration
or multi-benefit skin care products
dependent yield values which
containing particulates (e.g. pigments)
are high enough to provide
and electrolytes, such as BB or CC
SPF boosting performance (in vivo SPF: 3 subject; Dermatest Australia, Protocol: ISO24444:2010)
creams, day wear products with UV protection and skin care benefits, and low viscosity o/w formulations like milks
presence of traditional emulsifiers.
Table 2: Solvay’s Emulsifier-free sunscreen formulation
Phase Ingredient
A
% To 100
Rheomer SC-Plus
6
TEA Solution
B
C
g.s.
Isohexadecane
4
Ethylhexyl Cocoate
6
Octylmethoxycinnamate
6
Butylmethoxydibenzoyl Methane
4
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (neutralised with TEA), 30% solution
why it provides excellent stability to o/w systems, even without the
or sprays for body, skin and sun care.
Water
suspension to a variety of materials. This is one of the reasons
Rheology performance in o/w systems
an outstanding agent for stabilising
Rheomer SC-Plus provides best in class
formulations containing pigments
electrolyte tolerance. Additionally, it
and inorganic UV filters, such as
exhibits excellent stabilisation even in
titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. •
This also makes Rheomer SC-Plus
emulsifier-free systems. Figure 3 shows the viscosity profile of an emulsifierfree emulsion containing different levels of salt (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonate – PBSA)
Solvay Polymers and Chemicals South Africa – www.solvay.com/en/south-africa
Figure 2
2/5/10
in formulations containing oil and water-soluble chemical UV filters, where it also functions as the only
Figure 3
emulsifier and emulsion stabiliser. In systems containing chemical and physical UV filters, it is recommended to include a traditional emulsifier
Dynamic microscope images of sunscreen formulation with Rheomer SC-Plus, at six percent: 1. Upon application (before drying) 2. After drying 3. Close up of view 2
in addition to Rheomer SC-Plus for Viscosity profile of an emulsifier-free emulsion. Formulations passed four weeks stability trials at 50°C, and 12 weeks at 40°C and RT
optimum stability and performance.
Mechanism of SPF boosting Rheomer SC-Plus helps create a uniform size of the dispersed phase (containing UV filters) in o/w systems and provides a durable film around
Figure 4
Yield value versus polymer concentration (as supplied)
the dispersed phase, minimising coalescence. This helps to maintain the droplet size uniformity even after water has evaporated. Very little coalescence of the oil droplets is observed after drying of the emulsion. This ensures an even distribution of sunscreen on the skin, optimising the efficiency of UV protection.
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |
27
SUN CARE
Pioneering stability science to improve sunscreen performance Sun care products present some of the most daunting challenges for beauty and personal care formulators. Adding to this complexity, nearly every global region has its own consumer preferences and SPF/PFA rules. Hallstar offers decades of sun care expertise and unique formulation solutions.
R
epresented locally by Millchem,
AvoBrite is the first cost-effective, globally
Hallstar has pioneered
approved and China-compliant solution
photostability science. Today it
for stabilising Avobenzone and
offers one of the most powerful
combinations thereof. It has
and unique photostabilisation, anti-
been clinically proven to
ageing and sun protection technologies
protect Avobenzone
on the market.
from degrading upon
HallBrite EZ-FLO ZDX Plus. These products combine the benefits of industry leading zinc oxide performance with built-in
DID YOU KNOW?
photostabilisation technology.
with the option to create entirely unique,
Micah is the first and Emollients only product on the market Adding a variety of sensory that stops sun damage before it begins. Independent enhancing characteristics sun exposure and testing has proven that Micah and textures to releasing damaging effectively prevents reactive oxygen species formulations, emollients free radicals. Colourless and markers associated with inflammation, offer elegant slip, light skin and smooth, with AvoBrite photo-ageing, redness feel, quick-spreading, thick sun care products can and irritation. Source: Hallstar conditioning, slower spread and safely maximise the strong UV
customer-specific formulated solutions.
absorption powers of Avobenzone
Its state of the art global laboratories offer
and enter lucrative new markets.
The company is well known for its deep competency in photostability science, ester chemistry, emulsifiers and functional naturals. Its broad portfolio includes thousands of ready-made formulations
onsite in vitro testing with solar simulation and unsurpassed technical support.
According to Hallstar, SolaStay S1 is the
heavier skin feel benefits. HallBrite PSF is a versatile emollient with the aesthetic of silicone. It lends a silky
most powerful photostabiliser currently on
feel to lotions and creams, while providing
the market. It preserves the effectiveness of
enhanced substantivity and water
Photostabilisation and anti-ageing
UV filters by interacting with both the singlet
resistance. It also has superior organic
and triplet states. It also returns UV filters
compatibility and provides formulations with
Unlike UV filters that strongly absorb solar
to their ground states – without absorbing
anti-whitening and tack-reducing benefits.
radiation, the effectively non-absorbing
sunlight. An outstanding solvent for
SolaStay products from Hallstar provide
crystalline UV filters, SolaStay S1 is suitable for
this emollient is ideal for daily wear and sun
a stabilisation effect to formulations by
use in lotions, creams, sprays and stick and
care applications.
returning UV filters to their ground states.
gel formulations.
HallBrite BHB is a highly effective solubiliser
Aiding in the dispersion of metal oxides,
The highly functional ingredient Sensolene is endowed with emollient
for sunscreen actives and an excellent
Mineral dispersions
properties that provide high levels of skin
carrier and dispersant for micronised
The innovative mineral UV filter systems from
compatibility with a smooth formulation
titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. It has a low
Hallstar use zinc oxide and titanium dioxide
appearance and texture. Thanks to its
viscosity and polarity higher than traditional
to refract and reflect light away from the
polarity, Sensolene can help solubilise
solvents. This product also improves
skin. HallBrite EZ-FLO TDX solves the aesthetic
crystalline UV filters while providing a lighter
formulation aesthetics while imparting an
and sensory challenges of using mineral UV
touch to higher SPF sunscreens.
elegant moisturising feel.
filters by encasing them in a patented C3+
TAN Oléobooster offers a 100 percent
Cosmos approved Sensolene Care DD is
coating. As a surface-treated mineral UV
a dynamic emollient that offers protective
natural way to boost tanning while
filter, it’s delivered in a readily flowing liquid
effects and excellent spreading properties.
preventing UV damage. It contains a lipo-
dispersion that promotes stability in both
The low temperature melting point, similar
solubilised form of tyrosine – the enzyme that
mineral and mixed organic and mineral UV
to skin’s temperature, gives the product
stimulates melanin. A dose of only
filter systems as well as reduced whitening
unique sensorial features. The clinically
0.33 percent safely intensifies melanin
and improved UV attenuation.
tested calming properties of Sensolene
production up to 85.2 percent. Polycrylene is a triplet state-quenching
Combining the benefits of a readily flowable zinc oxide dispersion with Hallstar’s
Care DD make it a perfect ingredient for aftersun products.
photostabiliser ideal for customers seeking
patented photostabilisation expertise, the
to replace octocrylene as a photostabiliser
newest additions to its mineral dispersion
lipid with sebum recovering activities. Its
for Avobenzone.
line include HallBrite EZ-FLO ZDX and
strong emolliency and lubricant properties
28
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
Olivem 300 is a water-soluble functional
SUN CARE
AvoBrite sun care products can safely maximise the strong UV absorption powers of Avobenzone and enter lucrative new markets
Spectrasolv DMDA is a highly polar
Olivem 900 (also Cosmos approved)
solubiliser particularly suited to high SPF
is a PEG-free co-emulsifier for W/O and
formulations. It has superior solvency
W/S systems. It is designed to improve
compared to traditional esters and improves
the dispersion of the mineral UV filters
the freeze-thaw stability of emulsions.
in sun care and decorative cosmetics formulations. The film-forming benefits also
Emulsifiers Hallstar emulsifiers use complex
provide water-resistance properties. Olivem LV Flex is a versatile O/W primary
combinations of fatty acids that optimise
emulsifier designed for light, hyper-fluid
offer a distinctive skin smoothness and
the uniformity and stability of formulations.
and sprayable emulsions while ensuring
long-term moisturising effects, making it also
These naturally derived ingredients are
a pleasant skin feel. It also shows good
good choice for after sun products.
also proven to reduce skin irritation and
compatibility with various rheology modifiers
enhance SPF while lending exquisite skin
for use in a wide pH range.
Solubilisers These multifunctional ingredients provide
feel to emulsions. Olivem 2020/Olivem 2020 G is a next-
Engineered to increase viscosity and stability
superior solvency for solid sun care actives,
generation, naturally derived cold process
while imparting pleasant
while offering excellent spreadability and
emulsifier offering excellent performance,
sensorial benefits, Cosmos
additional resistance against wash off.
natural dermollient functionality, superior
approved Olivem
Hallstar offers moderately polar and highly
sensorial benefits and hydration. Inspired
VS Feel is an O/W
polar solubilizer options to suit specific
by olive oil chemistry, Olivem 2020’s
emulsifier that
formulation needs.
biomimetic properties have been clinically
greatly reduces the
proven to soothe and restore human skin.
soaping effect
HallBrite BHB has moderate polarity and low viscosity. It serves as an excellent carrier
Olivem 1000 (Cosmos approved) is said
and dispersant for micronised titanium
to be industry’s first PEG-free self-emulsifying
dioxide, zinc oxide and cosmetic colorants.
biomimetic ingredient that supports a wide
This product also improves formulation
range of functions, including anti-ageing,
aesthetics while imparting an elegant
anti-redness, luminescence, hydration and
moisturising feel.
maximising the sun protection factor.
of emulsions. •
Hallstar – www.hallstar.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |
29
SUN CARE
Regulatory Notification
UV filter EU safety update On 13 December, the EU Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety adopted the ‘Opinion on Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (S87) – Submission II’ by written procedure. Anina van der Walt of Acuservices discusses the outcome as this may have an influence on sun care product development in sunny South Africa.
The use of S87 as a UV filter in cosmetic products is safe up to a maximum concentration of three percent interesting cosmetic product substance and ingredient safety assessment information, which applies to the South African market and may be worth reviewing. Final safety assessments concluded: 1. Alkyl Amide MIPA, of which 14 ingredients were found safe with qualifications 2. Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, one ingredient was tested with an insufficient conclusion
B
for impurities and phototoxicity aspects ased on the data submitted,
ingredients contained in the Cosmetics
the EU Scientific Committee
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.
mixture have been concluded safe with qualifications
for Consumer Safety (SCCS) concluded that the use of
3. MCI/MI, two ingredients and one
Opinions nearing finalisation
4. Mannitol, Sorbitol and Xylitol, of which three ingredients have been deemed
Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene
Other SCCS Opinions on ingredients and
Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (S87) as a UV
substances, which will be finalised soon
filter in cosmetic products is safe up to a
and worth looking into are:
The following tentative safety assessments
maximum concentration of three percent.
• Dihydroxyacetone – DHA (1,3-Dihydroxy-2-
are in process:
Inhalation toxicity was not assessed in this opinion because no data was provided. As a result, this opinion is not applicable to any sprayable products that could lead to the exposure of consumers’ lungs by inhalation. Are there any further scientific concerns of the SCCS with regard to the use of Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (S87) in cosmetic products? S87 is a secondary amine and
propanone) CAS No. 96-26-4 • the safety of aluminium in cosmetic products – Submission II • SCCS/1613/19 on 30 and 31 October 2019, which is open for comment until 17 February • Zinc Pyrithione (ZPT) submission III; SCCS/1614/19 on 13 December, which is open for comment until 24 February • Hair dye Indigofera tinctoria (C170) CAS
is prone to nitrosation and formation of
84775-63-3 submission III; SCCS/1615/20
nitrosamines. S87 should not be used in
on 10 January, which is open for
combination with nitrosating substances,
comment until 13 March.
The ingredient safety information was
Interesting info worth noting Following the Cosmetic Ingredient Review
adopted and updated accordingly into
(CIR) 153rd Expert Panel Meeting held
the European Commission database for
on 9 and 10 December, a post meeting
information on cosmetic substances and
announcement was published with
30
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
• honey, with seven ingredients being tested and found safe in a preliminary statement • palm (açaí and juçara), of which eight ingredients have been tested with a split conclusion (safe; or insufficient information for composition), so the assessment will continue • pomegranate, of which 18 ingredients were assessed with expert voting resulting in a split conclusion (safe; or insufficient for various endpoints) • soy, of which 28 ingredients were assessed with expert voting resulting in a split conclusion (safe; or insufficient for
and the nitrosamine content should always be < 50 ppb.
safe for use.
various endpoints) • vanilla, of which nine ingredients were tested with voting resulting in a split conclusion (safe; or insufficient for various endpoints). •
INSPECTION & DETECTION
A vision for quality and compliance
With the right inspection and detection equipment, manufacturers can minimise waste, increase productivity and ensure the quality of their finished products. Production Packaging Systems, a division of Mitas Corporation, can help pharma manufacturers ensure their products meet specifications, particularly in contamination detection and weight.
I
nspection is part of the overall drug quality assurance system. The objective of inspecting pharmaceutical manufacturing facilities is either to enforce
Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP)
The 08D3 compact is an extremely versatile and functional entry level checkweigher for small to medium sized products
compliance or to provide authorisation for the manufacture of specific pharmaceutical products, usually in relation to an application for marketing authorisation. A further aspect of pharmaceutical
This equipment has an accuracy of about
inspection is monitoring the quality of
0.1g and a production rate of 500ppm. It
products in distribution channels, from
is made entirely of stainless steel and has
the point of manufacture to delivery to
an IP54 rating. It accurately checks small
the recipient, as a means of eliminating
format, high value products such as boxes,
the hazard posed by the infiltration of
flowpacks, bottles and tubes, detecting and
falsified medicines. National as well as international legislation is forcing pharmaceutical manufacturers to implement complete traceability of their production within the entire value-added chain, by means of track and trace systems. These systems guarantee a high level of process and product safety – both fundamental features in the pharmaceutical industry. Production Packaging Systems’ inspection equipment is specific to needs of the pharmaceutical industry and ensures the highest production quality.
Metal detection equipment Metal detectors from Production Packaging Systems check inside products for ferrous and non-ferrous metal as well as stainless steel contaminants. These detectors have an accuracy compliant with the global standards defined by the BRC. These metal detectors designed by Prisma Industriale assure the rejection of defective parts from the production line. The
The high sensitivity and advanced functions of self-check, phase adjustment and tracking unite the utmost reliability with a reduction in losses
auto rejecting a product if it’s under spec. pharmaceutical metal detector is able to scan 10 000 pieces per minute and can
X-ray inspection
detect any type of metal contaminant in
The future of the pharmaceutical product
tablets, including ferrous, non-ferrous and
inspection rests on X-ray equipment.
stainless steel to the size of 0.8mm.
With a single top level X-ray inspection
It then auto rejects the products
system, it is possible to inspect a series of
containing contaminants.
otherwise unidentifiable features such as non-ferrous and non-magnetic stainless
Checkweighing scales
steel metal contaminants, even within metal
The range of checkweighers from Production
film packages or those with aluminium foil.
Packaging Systems is both extensive and
It can also detect package defects like
highly configurable, ensuring customers can
deformations and cracks and completeness
find the most suitable solution for their type
and fill level, even in closed packages. •
of product and packaging. There are four different models designed for the pharmaceutical industry. These range from being able to weigh small and medium sized cylindrical pharma packages
The MDF11 metal detector for pharmaceutical applications
to checkweighers for pharma products with a maximum capacity of 600g. The 35D3 checkweigher for small to medium sized cylindrical packages is designed to run alongside the conveyor line without production interruption, which reduces installation costs
high sensitivity and advanced functions of self-check, phase adjustment and tracking unite the utmost reliability with a reduction in losses due to false rejects. The pharma metal detector was specifically designed in line with industry requirements for small, high-flow loose pharmaceutical products like tablets and capsules. Equipped with regulators that make it highly adaptable, this
Production Packaging Systems – www.prodpackaging.com
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |
31
INSPECTION & DETECTION
How to address data security issues in manufacturing Omron and Cisco Systems have joined forces to address issues surrounding the increased security risks of IIoT, to ensure IoT as well as IIoT can continue to develop safely and securely in the future. This will help progressive manufacturers streamline their processes and make new advances.
O
ver the past few years, IoT
manufacturing industry are much higher
has spread like wildfire and
than in other sectors. The
shows little sign of slowing
more serious threats are
down. Indeed, according to
evidenced by recent
Cisco, the number of connected devices
cases of disrupted
is expected to exceed 50 billion by next
production due
year. These range from everyday items
to ransomware
such as controllable lighting and heating
and other
in the home through to machine-to-
malware attacks.
machine (M2M) communications in the factory. This rapid increase in the number
Customers and the market in general are demanding
method of authentication for potential users of IoT.
DID YOU KNOW?
Some of the encryption methods used can also be fairly weak and
ineffective against Before joining forces with Cisco, potential hackers. IoT Omron had already developed the Machine Automation Controller security – particularly NJ Series. This is its flagship authentication and machine controller, which comes standard with the OPC UA encryption – is an server and complies with the area that leading security enabled global communications standard. manufacturers are
of also devices or end points for the
higher levels of
Industrial Internet of Things (IIoT) presents
quality and safety with
a correspondingly higher security risk –
increasingly stringent regulations
especially in relation to the data that’s
pharmaceutical products, as well as
Authentication, access control and a
being collected and exchanged
better traceability that will ensure the
lack of basic cyber security measures
quality of individual products. As a
are all key issues relating to the devices
if increased data security can be
result, manufacturers face significant
employed in an IIoT set-up. Devices with
achieved, ‘it’s likely adoption will
challenges in continuing to improve the
weak security pose implications for the
continue at an exponential rate as
technologies they use while keeping up
systems to which they are connected
greater consolidation drives developers
with consumer and market demands.
and indeed the entire infrastructure.
applications unlock multi-purpose
Key issues
and weak passwords are inadequate
robots, leading to far greater capability
There are three specific areas of
and can’t cope with the sheer number
and functionality’.
security risks associated with IIoT
of devices and the machine-to-machine
CMSWire recently reported that
to edge computing and connected
This collaboration will help manufactures to achieve safe and secure production within intelligent sites enhanced by the use of IIoT In reality, this is already beginning
addressing with urgency.
Device security
Traditional authentication methods
in manufacturing. These include the people who
communications that occur within an IIoT operation – which in turn will typically
access equipment and data on site,
be part of a complex manufacturing
the devices connected to machinery
environment. The devices need to be
and production lines, and the data
able to authenticate each other so that
collected and exchanged. Each
data can be safely exchanged within the
poses a challenge in terms of effective
system. The IIoT platform also needs to
authentication procedures.
be able to provide strong authentication processes as well as device authorisation
to happen. Manufacturers around the
Personal security
world are striving to strengthen their
This is one of the first areas likely to
global competitiveness and corporate
come under attack by hackers who
another important step, especially for
value by enhancing their manufacturing
attempt to impersonate an authorised
those devices that could be particularly
capabilities through the use of IIoT. The
user so that they can access data or
vulnerable to attack. This can help
industry is also rising to the challenge
carry out a disruptive task. Although
managers isolate any devices involved
of making manufacturing sites more
everyone is familiar with the Internet and
in a breach until the issue is resolved.
intelligent through the active use of
personal authentication, usernames and
After the security of the devices has
digital technologies. Yet the risks in the
passwords aren’t always an effective
been assured, the next step is to ensure
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| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
and access control. Developing a device inventory is
INSPECTION & DETECTION has been designed to deliver reliability under extreme conditions at manufacturing plants. This collaboration will help manufactures to achieve safe and secure production within intelligent sites enhanced by the use of IIoT. Omron and Cisco will jointly develop a secure environment in which machine controllers and PLCs, as core automation components, provide security authentication for the three discreet elements mentioned earlier: 1. people at manufacturing sites 2. devices connected to machinery and communication security between
data within it. So cyber security and
the devices, any apps and the cloud.
anti-hacking measures are not only
3. data exchanges.
This could typically include the use of
important but vital if manufacturers are
For user authentication, Omron’s
sophisticated encryption techniques.
to take advantage of the many benefits
controllers and PLCs will authenticate
of IIoT without opening themselves up to
user access and grant secure remote
potential disaster.
access (VPN) only to authorised users,
Data security At the heart of all these concerns is the
Data security starts with personal and
production lines
facilitating the safe monitoring of
need to maintain stringent data security
device security and might also involve
devices and machines at manufacturing
– including safeguarding its transmission,
further encryption techniques and the
sites. For device authentication,
storage, processing and ultimate
use of items such as data signatures.
the controllers and PLCs will detect
disposal. Any security must also comply
Network communications also need
device connections, block access
with a range of strict data protection
to be carefully monitored for signs of
from unauthorised devices and issue
regulations, including the General Data
any vulnerabilities or data breaches.
alerts in real time. Data authentication
Protection Regulation (GDPR).
This includes the need to identify any
on Omron’s devices will encrypt
affected devices, any services that might
communication data and ensure the
or thousands of interconnected
have been accessed, and any data that
data is transmitted appropriately.
devices that might be present within a
might have been compromised. Finally,
manufacturing site, the sheer quantity
manufacturers will need an effective
unauthorised access and security
of data collected and exchanged
strategy in place for rapidly resolving any
threats by monitoring and visualising
is almost impossible to monitor. For
issues that might arise.
details of data in the network. •
Quite apart from the hundreds
They will also detect and record any
instance, IBM believes as much as 2.5 quintillion bytes of data could be
Steps to address the issues
being generated each day.
Cisco’s leading networking and security
An experienced hacker can exploit
technology will be integrated into
a single weakness to gain access to
Omron’s machine and programmable
a company’s entire network – and the
logic controllers (PLCs). The latter
Cisco – www.cisco.com Omron South Africa – www.industrial.omron.co.za
Superior image sensing speed and precision FH Series
• High-precision object detection • Ultra-high-speed searching • Flexible functionalities to provide high compatibility with manufacturing machines
Would you like to know more? +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za fh_series_177x65_ad_enza_01.indd 1
11-06-18 09:42
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |
33
HAIR CARE
No itching or flaking – just a naturally healthy scalp An oily scalp that produces excessive sebum is more prone to dandruff. Seascalp biomarine ingredient from Lipotec Active Ingredients acts on the factors leading to dandruff, including sebum production, altered barrier function and immunoinflammatory response, to calm the scalp and prevent itching and flaking.
By Eulalia Peri, Juliana Gomiero, Elena Cañadas, Núria Almiñana and Raquel Delgado
D
andruff is a common condition
of the content of Seascalp biomarine
characterised by the presence
ingredient is of natural origin (according
Enhanced physical barrier function and antioxidant defence
of flakes on the scalp, which
to ISO 16128). Its efficacy has also been
Human keratinocytes were treated with
can be unpleasant and
demonstrated in vitro and in vivo.
10mg/mℓ Seascalp biomarine ingredient
sometimes even affects the self-esteem
for 24 hours. At the end of treatment,
of the person with this condition. As
In vitro efficacy
the expression of genes associated with
much as half of the world’s population
Lower sebaceous lipid accumulation
physical barrier function and antioxidant
will suffer from dandruff at some point.1 It
Human sebocytes were treated with
response was evaluated.
is not just aesthetically displeasing, but is
α-MSH (control) and with Seascalp
also associated with scalp discomforts,
biomarine ingredient (one and
to upregulate genes such as Glutathione
including itching and stinging.
10mg/mℓ). After four days of incubation,
Peroxidase 4 (GPX4), Glutamate-Cysteine
supernatants were removed and a
Ligase Catalytic subunit (GCLC) and
commonly found on the scalp.
mixture containing the reagent AdipoRed
Superoxide Dismutase 2 (SOD2), which
Sometimes it can grow out of control,
was added to each well. This reagent
are involved in promoting an antioxidant
especially on an oily scalp. When the
is a hydrophilic solution that becomes
response. It also upregulated genes
presence of sebum is high, the lipid
fluorescent in hydrophobic environments,
involved in promoting improved
dependent Malassezia feeds on these
facilitating the detection of the levels of
physical barrier function, such as Keratin
lipids and oxidises them. 2 Oxidised lipids
intracellular lipid droplets.
10 (KRT10), Ceramide Synthase 3 and
Malassezia is a genus of fungi
lead to a pro-inflammatory response that causes scalp irritation and itchiness, creating a dysfunction of the barrier function integrity. This proinflammatory response also increases the production
Seascalp biomarine ingredient showed
4 (CERS3 and CERS4), Occludin (OCLN) Figure 1: The presence of lipids i.e. red show lipids of the cellular membranes while green shows lipids within the cell. 1a: basal; 1b: 1mg/ mℓ Seascalp biomarine ingredient; 1c: 10mg/ mℓ Seascalp biomarine ingredient
and Claudin 5 (CLDN5).
Reduced inflammatory response Human sebocytes and keratinocytes
of lipids by the sebaceous glands, which
were treated with 10mg/mℓ Seascalp
further favours the proliferation of the
biomarine ingredient for 24 hours. Using
fungus as there is more sebum on which
a microarray analysis, the expression
it feeds.3 It is a vicious cycle. Malassezia also increases reactive oxygen species
of genes associated with inflammatory
1a
(ROS) producing oxidative stress, which
response was assessed. In keratinocytes, Seascalp biomarine
may additionally compromise the
ingredient showed downregulation in
scalp barrier function. 4 The end result
Interleukin 1 alpha (IL1-α), Interleukin
is the appearance of unwanted flakes
6 (IL-6), Interleukin 8 (IL-8) and Tumor
commonly associated with dandruff.
1b
Necrosis Factor (TNF) genes, all of which are involved in the inflammation process.
Restore scalp vitality
In sebocytes, it downregulated Tumor
The recently developed Seascalp
Necrosis Factor (TNF) and Interleukin
biomarine ingredient (INCI name: Water
8 (IL-8) genes.
(Aqua), Pseudoalteromonas Ferment
In vivo efficacy
Extract, Sodium Salicylate) is a fermentbased extract obtained from a marine
1c
microorganism. It is intended to reduce
A group of volunteers from China applied
sebum, itchiness and dandruff and to prevent their recurrence, resulting in a healthy looking scalp. Available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, 99.5 percent
34
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
Minimise the presence of dandruff a serum containing three percent
Treatment with one or 10mg/mℓ of
Seascalp biomarine ingredient or a
Seascalp biomarine ingredient showed 32
placebo serum on their scalps once
and 35.2 percent reductions in sebaceous
every two days for 28 days. The group
lipids accumulation, respectively.
consisted of 63 men and women with
HAIR CARE Figure 2: Reduction of density of dandruff adherence (****p<0.0001 vs initial time and ****p<0.0001 vs placebo)
Figure 3: Flakes on a volunteer’s scalp, before and after product was applied
3a
3b
3c
3d
dandruff and aged between 18 and
40.5 percent in a statistically significant
naught and very serious itchiness
55 years old. At the end of the treatment,
manner. A visually clear reduction of
with five.
reductions in dandruff adherence,
flakes was observed after 28 days
sebum level and scalp itchiness
of treatment.
were evaluated. The density of dandruff adherence on
Seascalp biomarine ingredient reduced scalp itchiness by 2.8 percent
The level of sebum on scalps was
while the placebo treatment increased
evaluated using a sebumeter. Treatment
scalp itchiness. The results demonstrate
the scalp was assessed by visual grading.
with Seascalp biomarine ingredient
Seascalp biomarine ingredient helps
An expert evaluated eight different areas
helped reduce sebum by 26.7 percent
enhance scalp comfort.
of the scalp, scoring them on a scale
in a statistically significant manner,
from naught (no flakes at all) to 10 (thick
while the placebo treatment barely had
Dandruff recurrence prevention
white to yellow flakes closely attached to
any effect.
A second clinical study was performed
the scalp). Seascalp biomarine ingredient helped reduce the presence of dandruff by
Scalp itchiness was evaluated by the
on a group 20 male and female
volunteers on a scale of naught to five,
volunteers from Spain. The volunteers
where no itchiness corresponded with
had dandruff and were aged between
No itch. No flakes. Just a healthy scalp and beautiful hair
Biotechnological ingredient that helps minimize the accumulation of sebaceous lipids and strengthen the skin barrier function
www.lipotec.com
All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation or its affiliates © 2019, 2020 The Lubrizol Corporation
Sin título-1 1
21/01/2020 14:59:06 P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 | 35
HAIR CARE Figure 4: Sebum reduction (***p<0.001 vs initial time and p<0.01 vs placebo)
Figure 6: Images of the scalp area of one volunteer. 6a-6c: general photography; 6d-6f: microphotography; 6g-6i. Corneofix technique
6a
6b
6c
6d
6e
6f
6g
6h
6i
Figure 5: Scalp itchiness measurement after 28 days
degree), and an average value
A proven solution
was obtained.
Seascalp biomarine ingredient helps to
After 28 days of treatment, the presence of dandruff was reduced by
less itchiness, flakes and greasiness,
40.8 percent in a statistically significant
while aiding in the daily management of
manner. The effect was sustained for
a dandruff-prone scalp.
two weeks after the last application of 18 and 70 years old. They applied a serum with three percent Seascalp biomarine
naturally support a healthy scalp with
The ingredient showed in vitro to
the product, which helped prevent the
reduce the accumulation of sebaceous
reappearance of dandruff.
lipids, to upregulate genes involved
Lipid peroxidation was evaluated
in the physical barrier function as well
ingredient on their scalps once a day for
through detection of malondialdehyde
as in the antioxidant defence and to
28 days. Dandruff and lipid peroxidation
(MDA), used as a lipid peroxidation
downregulate the expression of pro-
were evaluated at the end of the
marker. This test was based on the ability
inflammatory genes, all of which are
treatment and two weeks thereafter.
of chromogen thiobarbituric acid to
linked to dandruff.
The presence of dandruff was
react with malondialdehyde to produce
When tested in vivo on men and
evaluated using imaging technology.
a stable chromophore, which can easily
women of diverse ethnicities, Seascalp
First, general photography was taken
be quantified fluorometrically.
biomarine ingredient helped reduce
of the areas most affected by dandruff.
After 28 days of treatment, lipid
the density of dandruff adherence,
Then a micro-camera was used to obtain
peroxidation was reduced significantly
sebum levels and scalp itchiness. It
a more magnified image of one specific
by 38.4 percent. Two weeks after the
also prevented the reappearance
area of the scalps. Finally, the Corneofix
treatment, there was a further increase
of dandruff and lipid peroxidation
technique was used to evaluate the level
in the effect, reaching 100 percent
two weeks after treatment. •
of scalp desquamation.
reduction. This result shows that Seascalp
A specialised technician graded the
biomarine ingredient helps prevent the
REFERENCES:
dandruff levels in the images on a scale
reappearance of dandruff and protects
1. Turner G. A., Hoptroff M. and Harding C. R. Stratum Corneum
of naught (absence) to five (very high
the scalp.
dysfunction in dandruff. International Journal of Cosmetics Science. 34: 298-306, 2012. 2. Jourdain, R., Moga, A., Vingler, P., el Rawadi, C., Pouradier, F., Souverain, L., Bastien, P., Amalric, N. and Breton, L.
Figure 7: Dandruff reduction at 28 and 42 days (****p<0.0001 vs initial time)
Figure 8: Lipid peroxidation measurement at 28 and 42 days (***p<0.001 and ****p<0.0001 vs initial time)
Exploration of scalp surface lipids reveals squalene peroxide as a potential actor in dandruff condition. Archives of Dermatological Research. 308(3): 153-163, 2016. 3. Ro BI, Dawson TL. The role of sebaceous gland activity and scalp microfloral metabolism in the etiology of seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 10(3):194-7, 2015. 4. Schwartz, J., Henry, J., Kerr, K., Mizoguchi, H. and Li, L. The role of oxidative damage in poor scalp health: ramifications to causality and associated hair growth. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 37: 9-15, 2015.
Lubrizol Life Science – www.lubrizol.com/beauty Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
36
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
HAIR CARE
Formulate
on-trend hair care products Kao Europe, represented in South Africa by CIM Chemicals, reveals a range of novel solutions to meet modern hair care demands. These solutions have been developed in line with global market trends, such a customisation, an increased focus on scalp care, hair health and damage, sustainability and professional hair care.
C
onsumers’ demands have
but also about how the products are
production step, improves the formulation
evolved concurrently with
produced and packaged.
process and provides optimum properties
their awareness of health and wellness, professional care,
customisation based on their individual needs and environmental sustainability. These new trends have sparked a need in the industry to create responsible products that are kinder on the environment, form part of a professional service experience, help to answer the individual demands of consumers and allow them care for the health of their hair and scalp. Kao Europe provides solutions following these new hair care trends. Its
to the hair to keep it healthy.
Clean beauty is not just about the ingredients used in hair care products, but also about how the products are produced and packaged Solutions from Kao Europe, such as
Environmentally friendly yet effective These are some examples of the range of solutions and products that Kao has developed to respond to new market demands. The necessary customisation and individualisation to adapt to the needs of each person and each hair; the focus on scalp care, preventing problems such as irritation, excess fat or dryness; and the ability to give health to the hair,
solutions offer added benefits in finished
Akypo Foam LM 25, Kao Sofcare GP-1, and
nourishing, moisturising, repairing and
products, such as versatility, smoothness,
Danox HC-30 tick all the boxes when it
preventing hair fall, according to each
conditioning, biodegradability and
comes to meeting the demand for greener,
specific case. All this can be done by hair
outstanding results.
leaner and more eco-friendly products.
care brands and manufacturers with the
Akypo Foam LM 25 is an ultra-mild
maximum respect for the environment,
Cleaner ingredients and processes
cleansing agent that provides a high
through new formulations and responding
consistent, stable and creamy foam. Kao
to the supreme requirements of
Although sustainability has become a
Sofcare GP-1, a fortifying and repairing
professional care. •
hot topic across various industries, it’s
conditioning agent, maintains volume,
particularly important in personal care.
provides shine and improves hair
Today, clean beauty is not just about the
manageability. Danox HC-30, a two in
ingredients used in hair care products,
one conditioning agent developed in one
CIM Chemicals – www.cim.co.za Kao Europe – www.kaochemicals-eu.com
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |
37
HAIR CARE
The beauty of silicone microemulsions In South Africa, the concept of customised hair care products is gaining popularity as consumers tend to portray their individuality based on their hair type, style and texture. To meet these requirements, BRB Silicones strives to develop creative solutions. Specialty silicones can provide specific solutions based on individual needs.
W
hen silicones are added
These new microemulsions are easy
Multi-functional silicones
to leave-on or rinse-off
to incorporate into hair care products,
hair products, they impart
imparting a moisturised feel along with
BRB 5446 and BRB 5834 are low
a texture that makes hair
superior conditioning and excellent
viscosity silicone microemulsions which
feel moisturised. Hair moisturisation is
wet and dry combing properties. They
are easy to incorporate in hair care
defined by hair that is easy to comb
are ideal for use in clear, leave-in and
formulations. These liquid products are
when wet and dry, has a healthy looking
rinse-off products, especially for difficult
soluble in water, cold processable and can
shine and fibres that align more easily to
to manage hair types. Various tests were
be added into the formulation at the end
provide a sleek look.
conducted to assess the performance of
of process through gentle mixing. They
these microemulsions.
can be used in clear or opaque rinse-off
Although high molecular weight silicones are well known for hair conditioning and protecting benefits,
Combing force measurement
these silicones are difficult to formulate
Using a MTT175 tensile tester (Dia-Stron),
into hair care products due to their
BRB conducted studies during which
hydrophobic and high viscosity
combing force measurement was taken
properties. Yet when delivered as an
before and after the application of a
emulsion, small droplets of the high
shampoo and conditioner. The method is
molecular weight silicones can be added
available on request.
with ease into hair care formulations.
or leave-on hair care products.
The test was conducted on virgin
The development of thermodynamically
brown Caucasian hair tresses pre-
stable microemulsions is very beneficial
double bleached to ensure all chemical
to the formulator. The droplets are
substances were removed. Both
transparent and smaller than the
microemulsions reduced combing force
Figure 1:
wavelength of visible light. This makes
in wet and dry conditions up to eight
microemulsions more cost-effective and
percent compared to the control.
Results of the thermal protection with flat iron test. The control hair tress is pictured on the left while the right hair tress was treated with two percent silicone microemulsion
saves time during manufacturing.
Thermal protection
Innovative microemulsions
The frequent use of hair dryers,
BRB has developed a microemulsion
straightening and curling irons and
based on high molecular weight Silicone
any other styling tools can result in
Quaternium-17. It is processed by
thermal damage.
emulsifying Silicone Quaternium-17 with
These treatments are conducted
Trideceth-7 and Trideceth-5. The active
around 180 to 230°C, which damages
silicone content in the microemulsion is
the hair’s keratinous structure and leads
approximately 15 percent and it doesn’t
to dull, brittle, dry and fragile hair. due
contain polyether.
to Thanks to their film forming properties
A second microemulsion was
and low thermal conductivity, speciality
developed with the shine boosting
silicones can be used to protect hair from
silicone, Phenyl Trimethicone and a
thermal damage.
cationic polymer, Silicone Quaternium-17
For this test, virgin blonde Caucasian
together with an emulsifier of Laureth-4
hair tresses were pre-double bleached
Figure 2:
and Laureth-23. This microemulsion is not
and treated with a heat protecting spray
only polyether free, but also preservative
formulated with silicone microemulsion
free with an active silicone content of
BRB 5446. This was followed by 50 cycles
approximately 17 percent.
of flat ironing at 230°C. The results in
Results of the colour protection with silicone microemulsion. The tress on the far left is the untreated colour reference; second from the left is the untreated control; the third tress was treated with Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5; while the fourth tress was treated with non-silicone ingredients
38
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
HAIR CARE Table 1: Conditioner formulation for colour protection test
Phase
A
B
C
Ingredient
INCI
II (%)
III (%)
IV (%)
DI Water
Aqua
To 100
To 100
To 100
Glycerin
Glycerin
3.00
3.00
3.00
Tylose HS 100000
Hydroxyethylcellulose
1.00
1.00
1.00
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Alcohol
4.00
4.00
4.00
Tewax TC-65
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate
1.00
1.00
1.00
-
6.67 (1.0% Si active)
-
BRB 5446
Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5
Polyquaternium- 11
Polyquaternium- 11
Euxyl PE 9010
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
Citric Acid
Citric Acid
-
-
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
q.s
q.s
q.s
Figure 1 show less damage in the hair tresses treated with
available on request). Results indicate that hair tresses treated
BRB 5446 compared to the untreated hair tresses. Silicone
with a silicone microemulsion achieve higher gloss. •
Quaternium-17 in the microemulsion helps to protect from heat damage, preventing the cuticle from cracking.
REFERENCES:
Hair is easily detangled, feels healthier and less prone to
1. Silicone Emulsion A: Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5
breakage when combing.
2. Silicone Emulsion B: Phenyl Trimethicone (and) Laureth-4 (and) Silicone Quaternium-17 (and)
Colour protection
Laureth-23 3. Anthony J.O’Lenick Jr. Silicones for Personal Care 2nd Eddition 4. Prapaporn Boonme, Natthida Pakpayat, Kanokwan Yotmanee, Sarinnart Kunlawijitrungsee,
Permanent hair dyes, also referred to as oxidative dyes,
Duangkhae Maneenuan. Evaluation of Shampoos Containing Silicone Quaternary Microemulsion.
contain the alkalising agent hydrogen peroxide, which
Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science 01 (01); 2011: 59--63
swells the hair, enabling the dye precursors and a catalysing agent to reach the cortex.
BRB Silicones – www.brb-international.com/silicones
Studies show hair treated with red dye is particularly prone to fading after UV exposure and shampooing, so BRB performed the hair colour retention test on virgin blond Caucasian hair tresses dyed a commercial red shade. After dying, the tresses were cleansed with shampoo and a rinse off conditioner (see Table for the formulation). The tresses were washed in 15 cycles. Observations occurred at an interval of five, 10 and 15 washes (see Figure 2). Hair tress I is an untreated swatch, directly after colouring. Hair tress II was treated 15 times with the control shampoo and conditioner. Hair tress III was treated 15 times with a shampoo and conditioner formulated with silicone microemulsion BRB 5446 and hair tress IV was treated 15 times with a silicone-free shampoo and conditioner. The results in Figure 2 show a clear improvement in hair tress III, substantiating that silicone microemulsions maintain colour vibrancy by forming a hydrophobic surface on hair.
Hair shine Physical measurement tests show phenyl groups attached to silicone increase shine on hair. In hair care, Phenyl Trimethicone is seen as the standard for delivering shine and is used as a reference for the validation of test methods and claim substantiation. Benefits of Phenyl Trimethicone include improved organic compatibility, shine and gloss, spreadability and reduced tackiness. By adding Phenyl Trimethicone to silicone microemulsion BRB 5834, high shine benefits can be provided to treated hair. To substantiate this, tests were conducted on pre-double bleached virgin blonde Caucasian hair tresses. These tresses were treated with a whipped cream formulation containing BRB 5834 (formula
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |
39
HAIR CARE
Go green with waterless formulations
Water is set to be a precious commodity as consumption outstrips supply. The more consumers become aware of this, the more beauty brands will need to change how they manufacture and formulate products to limit their dependence on water.
A
growing number of brands
Waterless beauty is becoming
eliminate the water in the formula. They
within the world of beauty and
increasingly popular and it’s needed.
also to reduce the consumers’ water
personal care are committing
Waterless beauty products are those that
consumption by introducing a longer
to developing waterless
are free from water and instead formulated
period of time between shampooing.
products that boast innovative formulas
with botanical ingredients and oils, upping
and help to preserve a precious resource.
the potency and diminishing the need for
care products is Natrasorb Bath from
Waterless, powdered products are said to
preservatives and other unnecessary fillers.
Nouryon (see Table 1). This ingredient
be the future of hair care, considering that
An ideal ingredient for waterless hair
based on tapioca starch is able to absorb
a conventional liquid shampoo tends to be
Powdered hair care products
and carry large quantities of oils and
made up of about 80 percent water.
Anhydrous formulas also known as water
anhydrous liquids. It is processed in a
free. These can be oil-based formulas,
manner that creates unique ‘pockets’,
oils and serums, fats-based cosmetics,
which can carry the oils essentially in a
powdered products, dry products, or solid
solid, powder form. Natrasorb Bath starch
bars. They can have a positive
is hydrophilic – once the starch comes
Within the beauty industry, water is set to be a precious commodity as consumption outstrips supply In November, IMCD South Africa, in collaboration with Nouryon, hosted a hair
impact on water consumption
in contact with water, it immediately
Mintel recently reported that within
dissolves, releasing loaded oils,
the beauty industry, water is set to be a
fragrances and/or emulsifiers, dispersing
precious commodity as consumption
them into the warm water. The starch itself
outstrips supply. In the hair care category,
provides a soft feel but does not settle or
dry shampoos in a powder format
leave a film.
allow formulators to reduce the virtual water used to produce a product and
be formulated into a variety of textures,
care seminar centred on the Afro Ethnic
from powders and pastes to mousses
market and sustainability. One of the
and creams, depending on the oil load.
presentations focused on water use in hair
It has also been modified to obtain a
care formulations. It demonstrated how
larger particle size with a high porosity
brands can reduce their water usage in
which supports loading of high levels of oil
various ways, from the amount of water
fragrance. This perfume is then released
used during manufacturing to eliminating
either when a force is applied on the
water from a formulation and limiting water
starch or when Natrasorb Bath comes into
usage with finished products.
contact with water. •
Table 1: Scalp Soothing Anti-Flake Cream
Phase
Ingredient
INCI
NATRASORB BATH ® Tapioca Starch starch New Phase
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Salicylic Acid
% w/w 19% 78.90%
Salicylic Acid
2.00%
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
0.10% Total: 100%
In this natural clean label formulation, soothing Argan Oil is combined with the mild anti-septic properties of Tea Tree Oil and Salicylic Acid to gently eliminate a dry, flaky scalp. Nouryon’s Natrasorb Bath allows oils to be safely handled in the shower as a viscous cream and oils are delivered to the scalp either by gentle massage or when coming into contact with water. This releases a strong bloom of Tea Tree Oil perfume with a soft after-feel.
40
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
Originally developed for bath and shower products, Natrasorb Bath can
IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com
ASSOCIATION NEWS// NEWS
Industry managed waste management plan gets a ‘thumbs up’ DID Although the development of an IndWMP has been more than three years in the making, Minister Creecy announced in December the start of an entirely new process under Section 18. This is set to allow for an industry managed plan as opposed to a government managed one.
T
he plastics and packaging industries of South Africa,
YOU KNOW?
As a result of the consistent and concerted efforts of all the producer organisations, over the past 10 years South Africa has managed to grow its recycling figures annually to become one of the world leaders in mechanical recycling.
represented by Packaging SA and Plastics|SA, have welcomed the
announcement made by Barbara Creecy, minister of environment, forestry and fisheries (DEFF) to scrap the existing Section 28 plan for developing an Industry Waste Management Plan (IndWMP). Admitting the announcement came as a surprise, Shabeer Jhetam, executive director of Packaging SA, said they welcomed the decision. ‘Despite the considerable amount of resources invested in preparing and submitting our federation of plans, we believe the minister has made the right decision. Through our engagements,
producers of packaging
drawing board as soon as possible to
we’ve introduced the minister
materials are held responsible
develop a workable plan. Receiving the
to the excellent work of the
for managing their waste
support and buy-in of the industry are vital
various packaging streams
through belonging to industry
if this plan is to succeed,’ Ngcaba was
done through their producer
bodies that represent their
reported as saying.
responsibility organisations,
interests and drive their own
including Polyco, PETCO, the Glass Recycling Company,
Anton Ha nekom
MetPac-SA, the Polystyrene
recycling and collection
Considering all interests
efforts. We agree, the industry
A framework needs to be developed with
should be left in charge of its
clear targets for each sector, including
Association of South Africa, South
funds and projects, albeit with very close
quarterly and annual reporting, as
African Vinyls Association and the Paper
cooperation and direct accountability to
well as waste minimisation and the
Manufacturers Association of South Africa,’
government,’ he explains.
encouragement of recycling. The first
he explains.
of these engagements will take place
Clarity on the matter
in February and will require input on a
Working together to benefit all
DEFF director general, Nosipho Ngcaba
possible structure and future cooperation
‘We are sending less material to landfill
provided clarity at a recent meeting
between industry and government.
thanks to light-weighting and progress in
on why none of the submitted plans
developing a circular economy for each
were approved. She also reported that,
future of our environment or our industry,
industry. A government managed plan
according to treasury, there are no funds
yet we need a plan that uses collection
would have had the potential of nullifying
available for a government plan.
and recycling mechanisms already in
these achievements and making it more
‘A total of 13 industry plans were
‘We cannot afford to gamble with the
place and proven to be successful. I am
difficult for these organisations to access
submitted for consideration. The paper
confident this new approach will best serve
the funds needed to fulfil their mandates,’
and packaging industry submitted seven;
the interests of the environment, industry
Jhetam adds.
electrical and electronic submitted five
and our country. Members will be provided
and one was received from the lighting
regular updates on opportunities for job
Hanekom says the organisation is also
industry. Throughout the entire process,
creation by incorporating the informal
relieved by the Minister’s decision to
it became abundantly clear that none
sector, enabling access to better quality
develop a new plan under Section 18
of the plans would meet the criteria of a
and quantities of recyclable waste by
of the Waste Management Act, in close
government managed model, and that
introducing household separation at source
consultation with industry representatives.
a Section 28 plan was no longer the best
nationally, and contributing to economic
option. In order to expedite the process,
growth by unlocking new opportunities,’
the minister would like to return to the
Hanekom concludes. •
Plastics|SA’s executive director, Anton
‘We have always advocated for an industry managed plan where the
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |
41
Tea time Sudoku
Solution
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42
| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
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