Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review February 2020

FEBRUARY 2020 | Volume 47 | Number 2

www.pharmacos.co.za

“ChemSystems will now be known as AECI Specialty Chemicals” CANNABIS: Your guide to local suppliers & testing labs

What’s trending in SUN PROTECTION

PRESERVATIVES: Beat the ban with multifunctional ingredients

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

February 2020 | Volume 47 | Number 2

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEWS

Bosch rebrands as Syntegon Technology

Dry skin meets its match with Lactobiotyl

New personal care group director for IMCD

8 PRODUCT NEWS

What’s New in South Africa

10 INDUSTRY TALK

Business finance information from FinFind

12 EVENTS

CTFA’s Cosmetic Industry Summit preview

Natural Products Expo to empower entrepreneurs

16 PRESERVATIVES

Formulation advice from Evonik Dr. Straetmans

Guidance on preserving natural face masks

20

High-quality Cannabis testing assured 31 INSPECTION & DETECTION

Vision solutions for quality and compliance

Address data security issues in manufacturing

34 HAIR CARE

Seascalp biomarine ingredient for healthy scalps

Formulate on-trend hair care products

The beauty of silicone microemulsions

Go green with waterless formulations

20 PHARMA FOCUS: CANNABIS

Chem-Science establishes a new lab

CanbiGold clinches a major deal

Turn-key solutions from Afriplex

24 SUN CARE

BASF increases UV filter production

Boost your SPF performance with Solvay

Sun care expertise from Hallstar

31

39

The beauty of silicone microemulsions 41 ASSOCIATION NEWS

Solutions

with a vision for quality and compliance

The latest developments from

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |

3

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

The green rush gains momentum

B

ased on the extensive range of

growth. Evonik Dr. Straetmans and Sharon

therapeutic benefits of Cannabis,

Laboratories are featured in this section.

ranging from pain and stress relief

Our bumper sun care feature on

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Contributors: Vanessa Lahn, Núria Almiñana, Elena Cañadas, Raquel Delgado, Naama Eylon, Juliana Gomiero, Darlene Menzies, Eulalia Peri, Anina van der Walt ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za

dementia and Alzheimer’s, CBD has made its

this lucrative and much needed category of

Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za

way into health supplements, oils, cosmetics

the personal care industry. Interesting reads

INTERNATIONAL SALES

and foodstuffs.

include BASF’s UV filter production capacity

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de

to effectively managing cancer,

Although the medicinal Cannabis

page 24 reveals the latest developments in

expansion, a polymer technology from

industry is still in its infancy, it’s experiencing

Solvay that’s proven to provide SPF boosting

unprecedented levels of growth and

benefits, filters and formulation solutions from

investment. Likened to the gold rush,

Hallstar and a regulatory notification on the

Prohibition Partners says the Cannabis

EU safety update on the UV filter, S87.

green rush represents a new commercial

If you’re looking for inspection and

opportunity that will likely reach every corner

detection equipment for your manufacturing

of the globe. In South Africa, there are a

plant, we have a variety of solutions featured

variety of players already dominating the

on page 31. For hair care brands and

market. Afriplex, CanbiGold and Chem-

manufacturers of these products, the section

Science Laboratories are among them.

on page 34 includes the latest proven

Featured in our pharma focus on page 20,

ingredients for scalp care, thermal protection

Chem-Science Laboratories has established

and waterless formulations.

a dedicated Cannabis lab in KwaZulu-Natal,

We welcome your news and views, so

Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

CanbiGold has secured a R600 million deal

please keep in touch with us. You can

with international investors to cultivate and

connect with us on social media by following

supply raw materials for export, while Afriplex

@PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview on

has established a dedicated business unit

Facebook, @SApharmacos on twitter or

specifically focused on medicinal Cannabis

@pharmacosreview on Instagram. Please

product development and manufacturing.

feel free to also send me an email. My email

Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd

address is abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za.

MANAGEMENT TEAM

Preservatives are another topical issue highlighted in the February edition of P C Review. These ingredients are needed

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb

Enjoy the read.

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis

in just about every personal care formulation

BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley

containing water yet choosing the best

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone

option is one of the most difficult ingredient selections formulators need to make. Turn to

HEAD OF HR: Camillah West

page 16 now, if you’re looking for formulation

CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson

advice and interesting tips on how to

HEAD OFFICE

protect your formulations from microbial

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

4 | FEBRUARY

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

2020 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

NEWS

Collagen Lift wins prestigious award COLLAGEN LIFT RED Carpet Paris has won the annual beauty award, Victoire de la Beauté in France.

ProlongLife is the South African distributor of the Collagen Lift Paris range of drinkable collagen.

The brand has gone from strength to strength since its launch in 2016, achieving worldwide success. The Red Carpet variant has become the bestselling product in the range and is currently sold in over 30 countries.

Red Carpet is the perfect combination of oral collagen and hyaluronic acid, which together become a potent formula that helps hydrate skin, adds plumpness, reduce wrinkles and encourages the growth of healthy nails. An added bonus is that it helps to reduce cellulite.

The Victoire de la Beauté Award by Monadia is judged

by a panel of unbiased consumers.

To qualify for a Victoire de la Beauté award, a product needs to go through a stringent quality test based on the opinion of consumer judging panel.

At the end of the test period, entries are judged on overall consumer satisfaction. The beauty product that obtains the highest score is deemed the winner of the prestigious award.

Bosch Packaging is now an independent enterprise SYNTEGON TECHNOLOGY IS the new name among the market leaders in processing and packaging. Previously known as Bosch Packaging Technology, the former Bosch division now operates as an independent enterprise at the company headquarters in Waiblingen, Germany.

In July 2019, Bosch disclosed its plans to sell the packaging machinery division to a newly incorporated entity managed

by CVC Capital Partners (CVC). The transaction was completed according to plan, with the company gaining full independence at the turn of the year.

The new owner, CVC, aims to develop the company as a whole and expand intra-group synergies.

‘CVC is delighted to see the transaction completed on schedule.

Syntegon Technology has a strong presence in many market segments, great technological know-how, and

J&J maintains its top MCap spot IN Q3 OF 2019, 14 pharmaceutical companies listed in the top 20 players by Market Capitalisation (MCap) registered positive performances. However, the top five companies witnessed a five percent decline as compared to Q2, according to GlobalData.

‘Johnson & Johnson continues to maintain the top position for the top 20 list, though it witnessed a decline of 7.7 percent in its quarter on quarter (QoQ) MCap due to a landmark ruling in Oklahoma relating to the US opioid crisis, and other litigation challenges. Daiichi Sankyo was the new entrant in the top list with a MCap growth of

6 | FEBRUARY 6

2020 | P C Review

20.7 percent driven by the US$6.9 billion collaboration with AstraZeneca in March 2019,’ says Madeleine Roche, business fundamentals associate analyst at GlobalData.

Daiichi Sankyo and Bristol-Myers Squibb reported more than 10 percent growth in their MCap. Other major gainers included AstraZeneca (9.4 percent) and Sanofi (7.6 percent) along with Celgene Corp (eight percent), which became a wholly owned subsidiary of BMS in November. BMS reported MCap growth of 11.8 percent in Q3 as its Celgene acquisition neared completion. Novartis and Merck & Co moved up one position in the top list, compared to Q2.

Pfizer slipped down to fifth position with the announcement to merge its generic and off-patent drug segment with Mylan NV, which came up short of expectations.

‘AstraZeneca continued the MCap growth trend indicated in Q2 due to the strong sales of newer medicines. Sanofi reported a growth of 7.6 percent in Q3 as compared to a decline of 7.1 percent in its MCap in Q2,’ concludes Roche.

innovative power. We want to jointly build on these strengths with management and the entire workforce,’ says Marc Strobel, a partner at CVC. Syntegon Technology’s business focus is on intelligent and sustainable technologies for the pharmaceutical and food industries. The enterprise is pursuing two approaches to produce sustainable packaging. One is to use mono materials rather than conventional multilayer films, and the other is to use paper packaging as an alternative to plastic.

Syntegon Technology supports its customers on the path to a sustainable future with material testing, machine applications and innovative packaging designed to meet the requirements of products, transport modes and regional circumstances. The company has also significantly reduced its machines’ energy consumption.

Dry skin meets its match with Lactobiotyl FOR THE DEVELOPMENT of its new care product for dry skin, Silab drew inspiration from the adaptation properties of a plant probiotic Lactobacillus arizonensis to a desert climate.

Lactobiotyl is a natural postbiotic active ingredient that can restore hydration and luminosity to dry skin. It improves the integrity and renewal of the epidermal barrier while preserving the equilibrium of the cutaneous microbiota.

This living micro-organism colonises jojoba, a shrub known for its adaptation to extremely dry conditions. To ensure its survival, the probiotic bio-converts molecules of its host into bioactive metabolites, commonly known as postbiotics.

Working with industrial bioreactors, the team at Silab reproduced the natural environment of this bacterial species by growing it in association with its host, jojoba.

This targeted bio-guiding technology has resulted in the production of bioactive molecules that constitute Lactobiotyl.

Advanced analytical techniques have enabled the identification of these bioactive molecules, namely cyclic polyols, osmo-protecting molecules known to regulate the water status of the plant in conditions of drought. In the skin, these molecules directly target dry skin, making Lactobiotyl the ideal care product to treat dry skin.

Using a 3D model of reconstructed epidermis subjected to a water stress, Silab has shown that Lactobiotly activates the mechanisms required to establish an effective barrier function by stimulating epidermal differentiation and cohesion. This optimises the formation of the lipid cement by activating the expression of the lipid-synthesising enzymes GBA, ABCA12, FASN and reducing trans-epidermal water loss.

Meganede is the South African agent for Silab.

NEWS

New certified natural starch NOURYON HAS INTRODUCED a certified natural starch as a replacement for petrochemical-based products in a variety of personal care applications. Amaze Nordic Barley, derived from barley starch, addresses the fast-growing consumer demand for natural, biodegradable and clean label ingredients.

The product is the result of a partnership between Nouryon and Oat Services, a UK company specialising in products and technologies derived from oats. Oat Services will be the exclusive supplier of barley starch to Nouryon.

‘Amaze Nordic Barley shows excellent performance in improving the aesthetics of skin and hair care products, including dry shampoos,’ says Jens Müller, global

technical marketing manager for personal care at Nouryon. ‘It reduces the greasiness of the formulation, while leaving a pleasant after-feel. In dry shampoos, the unique shape of the barley starch provides a soft, conditioned after-feel. It is the ideal choice to develop high-performance products with minimal environmental impact.’

Larry Ryan, executive vice president of performance formulations, adds: ‘This is an important extension to our product range of native and modified starches.

It also reflects our focus on working with others to develop more sustainably sourced products and helping our customers to meet growing consumer demand for more natural products.’

Evonik acquires US phytochemical company UTILISING MORE SUSTAINABLE and renewable sources for cosmetics ingredients has become an extremely important criteria that many personal care companies aim for in the market today. To meet this need, Evonik recently concluded a purchase agreement to acquire Wilshire Technologies for an undisclosed amount.

Headquartered in Princeton, New Jersey, Wilshire Technologies supplies phytochemicals and derivatives to the global cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. The new home for the cosmetics part of Wilshire’s product portfolio will be in Evonik’s Care Solutions business line.

Wilshire Technologies has developed a strong technology, which obtains products based on renewable and nonanimal-origin sources. This acquisition, which comprises approximately 10 employees, marks a substantial addition to Evonik’s sustainable active ingredients portfolio for cosmetics. As a result, Evonik’s Care Solutions business will be able to expand its product range into phytochemicals, such as plant derived cholesterol, as a replacement for animal originated ingredients in active ingredients for cosmetics.

‘This latest acquisition allows us to continue our efforts in fortifying the flexibility of our products and technology platforms, while providing our customers with the bio-based products their markets demand,’ says Dr Tammo Boinowitz, head of the Care Solutions business line at Evonik.

This move supports the ongoing transformation of Evonik’s cosmetics ingredients portfolio towards sustainability and natural-based ingredients.

‘With Wilshire’s unique products that replace animal origin ingredients and intermediates, we are moving another

Tammo Boinowitz, Joe San Filippo and Ricardo Willemann

step forward with our development of a more diverse portfolio of sustainable active ingredients,’ Boinowitz adds.

Evonik’s Health Care business line will also benefit from an enhanced portfolio for its naturally derived excipients and intermediates for pharma and food applications. With the acquisition of Wilshire Technologies and its innovative products for the cosmetics, pharmaceutical and food ingredients markets, Evonik is strengthening its focus on its Health & Care growth engine, established to meet the increasing demands from customers towards the global trend of more bio-based and sustainable products.

‘We are looking forward to expanding the presence of our products across these global industries,’ comments Joe San Filippo, CEO and founder of Wilshire Technologies. He believes Wilshire’s expertise, innovative portfolio and technologies will provide outstanding opportunities for intensifying Evonik’s competences in the fields of phytochemical ingredients and intermediates for the continuously developing cosmetic and health care industries.

Nouryon, represented locally IMCD, has been expanding its range of innovative products to customers in the personal care market, one of the company’s key growth segments. These include a recently launched bio-based polymer that is perfect for natural hair styling products and a film-forming polymer for use in longlasting, high SPF sunscreen products.

IMCD appoints new business group director for personal care ON 6 JANUARY, IMCD appointed Tony Jaillot as group business director of its personal care business group. In his role, Jaillot will lead the global IMCD personal care business group in establishing and driving the business strategy toward new growth markets in speciality ingredients distribution and exploring new partnerships and business models, while transforming IMCD personal care toward even more performance Tony Jaillot and customer orientation.

Jaillot will be based at the IMCD offices in Paris and will be reporting to IMCD’s CEO, Piet van der Slikke.

‘We are very pleased to welcome Tony back to his industry career roots and have him lead one of our company’s fast-growing businesses. We are confident his extensive experience within the personal care industry will help us further develop, innovate and expand the business,’ says Van der Slikke.

Jaillot adds: ‘The IMCD personal care business has always been in the forefront of providing beauty applications

and solutions. We have a very strong set of partners who deliver innovation and technology for every market category and functionalities.

Combined with IMCD’s strong commercial and technical footprint, supported by increasing digital tools, we will even more and faster offer new trends-matching concepts, explore new benefits and increase product performance, to name a few.’

Jaillot is French and brings about 25 years of international and global business, strategy and management experience in the beauty industry.

He started his career working for IMCD France and was until recently general manager of Cargill Beauty.

He has also gained in-depth industry knowledge working for various cosmetics ingredients companies, such as BASF in the US and Europe in a variety of roles, including sales director North America beauty solutions and marketing director skin care. Jaillot holds a BSc degree in chemistry, a masters in cosmetics and a global executive MBA from the business school, Insead.

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 | 7

STREET

1

1 Advanced hyperpigmentation management

Lamelle’s Correctives Brighter Serum is the first product that manages hyperpigmentation and soothes inflammation while supporting the skin’s barrier function. This makes it ideal for managing melasma and skin barrier impairment. It also contains improved pigmentation reducing ingredients that calm irritation and inflammation.

2

4

2 Love your hands the pro way Sorbet has launched a range of professional hand creams.

Developed with specialised ingredients including Q10, collagen and tissue oil, the Sorbet Salon Pro Hand & Nail range is the perfect choice for prolonged nourishment and skin glow. The deliciously rich line of targeted salon hand creams is perfect for dry, shy, chapped, cracked, tired and mature hands – and for hands that just love being loved.

3 Introducing smart skin care The first beauty brand to use the cost-effective, 100 percent green high-performance ingredient, Naatium Oleam, jessae’s range of barrier functional products is ideal for men, women and children. The range includes a survival hand cream, head to toe moisturising lotion and rescue lip balm.

All the formulations contain fewer ingredients yet still perform well on the skin and offer enhanced sensory benefits.

3

4 Even tone three in one mask Bramley has extended its even tone product offering with a new three in one mask. Designed to deeply cleanse the skin, fight blemishes and control shine, while promoting even tone skin, the multi-purpose product acts as a facial cleanser, exfoliator and mask. The formulation is enriched with Kaolin clay, oil control ingredients and Bio-Pharm oil, as well as a blend of selected vitamins, such as C, E, A, B5, Niacinamide (B3).

5 Lipid replenishing face care Essential serum, ultimate cream and absolute night balm are the three product offerings in the new expert face care line from Mavala Laboratories. The formulations include some of the best ingredients from Swiss Alpine botanical treasures and are based on the science of lipid technology. Generous while remaining incredibly fine, these three products provide the essential elements for skin’s vitality and youthfulness.

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2020 | P C Review

5

2020

March

ood f

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

RE V IE W

WHAT'S ON IN

DIARY

SOUTH AFRICAN

CosmoPack + Cosmo Perfumery & Cosmetics 12 to 15 March Bologna, Italy Fair District www.cosmoprof.com/cosmopack

Cosmo Hair, Nail & Beauty Salon

2020 SUBSCRIPTION FORM

13 to 16 March Bologna, Italy Fair District www.cosmoprof.com

Please complete in block letters, select your subscription option, and return this form, along with your payment to:

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INDUSTRY TALK

Business finance application tips to consider Many factors go into whether or not funders approve a loan, and not all of these are within your control. Darlene Menzies of Finfind looks at the key factors.

W

hen reviewing loan

will consider funding an owner with a

projections and the overall economic

applications, one of the

judgement on their credit record.

forecast for the country – you have no

biggest deciding factors is the probability of the loan

being repaid. Funders or credit committees

control over these factors.

Amount and affordability The loan amount needed and whether or

do not know you personally,

not you can afford the repayments

so they have to rely upon historical data to build a risk profile. Only a couple of credit bureaux provide business credit records, and since these reports are not yet standardised, the personal credit check of directors carries

DID YOU KNOW?

Your personal credit record gives funders a good indication of

maximise the return on the money they

process. The amount you

lend. One of the ways they do this is to

need will be weighed

demand collateral against the loan.

against the financial history

Should you default on the repayments, the

of the business, its asset

lender has the right to use the collateral to

base, and profitability, and whether the lender considers you can afford the cost of the finance. This is where management accounts

play an important role. They show the lender how you manage your

whether or not you’re financially responsible.

business, whether its sustainable, how much

They will examine the accounts listed on

you have invested in the business and how

your record and your ability to manage

you manage the profits.

regular payments. Judgements and

Funders always look to minimise risk and

are also crucial in the approval

If you have a need to raise business funding, visit www.finfind.co.za and complete the questionnaire.

Finfind will match your needs with the most appropriate products and will provide you with a summary of the fund and how to apply.

more weight.

Security or collateral

Your balance sheet shows the assets

Interest rates are closely linked to your risk profile, so improving your risk profile can result in a better interest rate recover the cost of the loan. The amount of collateral required against a loan

blacklisting are showstoppers and reveal a

owned by the company. It’s

depends on the type of loan and your risk

breach of credit contracts.

sometimes possible for

profile. Beware – if you are also asked to

assets to be used as

sign personal surety for the business loan,

Risk and payment reputation

security for a loan.

the funder can choose to recover the

If the credit record holds inaccurate

The type of asset, its

outstanding monies from you in your

information, contact the credit bureaux and

current book value

personal capacity.

provide updated information. Know your

and whether the

credit score and problem areas and put

funder believes it has

plans in place to address these to increase

a high resale value will

are less stringent in their demands for

the score. The credit record provides this

determine whether it can be

collateral than private lenders. Get to know

information, so it’s easy to fix.

used as surety.

the different types of finance products

You are entitled to one free credit report

Interest rates are closely linked to your

Research funders carefully as some government financing agencies

available for small businesses and see

per year, so make sure you access this

risk profile, so improving your risk profile can

which ones would work for your business

and check the information is correct. If you

result in a better interest rate. There is also

and risk profile. •

don’t have any accounts, funders cannot

a difference between fixed and variable

assess your risk profile. You may need to

interest rates. Many lenders will consider

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

apply for a credit card, but use it sparingly

a fixed repayment amount, which will not

and pay the minimum repayment on the

adjust should the prime rate change.

Darlene Menzies is the CEO and founder of the innovative fintech businesses, Finfind. In 2017, she was named by the World Economic Forum as one of the six Top Female Tech Breakthrough Entrepreneurs in Africa.

due date. This starts to build a history of responsible credit use.

Judgements remain on your credit record

The cost of business loans varies considerably as it’s dependent on the type of finance required, as well as a

for a fixed period of time – determined by

number of economic variables, such as

the laws of a country – and few funders

the current prime interest rate, inflation

10

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

Launched a new product in 2019/20

Make a

Statement about it 2020

New Product Competition

ENTRIES NOW OPEN C o n t a c t A b b y V o r s t e r : A b b y .V o r s t e r @ n e w m e d i a . c o . z a | + 2 7 ( 0 )11 8 7 7 6 0 3 8 P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 | 11

EVENTS

Expert speakers to present at CTFA industry summit The Cosmetic Industry Summit: Breaking Barriers in Africa will take place on 13 and 14 May, in Sandton, Johannesburg.

The CTFA has secured leading international and local experts to speak at the summit.

O

rganised by the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association (CTFA) on behalf of the

South African cosmetics industry, the inaugural summit involves a partnership with the Industrial Development Corporation of South

DID YOU KNOW? The summit will provide

an excellent opportunity for networking. If you are interested in registering for the summit, please visit www.ctfa.co.za for more information.

Africa (IDC). It has also received

research and information department, speaking on barriers to trade from an economic perspective • Charles Azuka, head of global product stewardship, P&G subSaharan Africa: regulatory, human safety, clinical, market entry and expansion, speaking on barriers to

support from the Department of Trade

trade from a business perspective

and Industry (dti) and the greater

Later in the day on day one, Dr

• Brian Mureverwi, trade advisor,

cosmetics industry. The summit will

Hermogene Nsengimana, secretary

dti African Union, speaking on

take place at the IDC Conference

general of

the African Organisation

barriers to trade from a trade and

Centre, located on Fredman Drive

for Standardisation, will

legislative perspective.

in Sandton, where presenters and

enlighten delegates

On day two of the summit, one of

panel discussions will deliberate

on African Standards,

the panel discussions will focus on

ways to stimulate harmonisation

Conformity Assessment

possible convergence solutions in

and ease trade within the

& Procedures to reduce

terms of harmonisation and breaking

African continent.

technical barriers

barriers in Africa,

to trade.

facilitated by

Keynote addresses After an official welcome from the chairperson of the CTFA, the summit will kick off with a keynote presentation by Dr Martyn Davies,

The keynote speaker confirmed for day Dr Gerald Renner, Cosmetics Europe

Ian Patterson, CEO, strategist

two of the

and strategic

seminar is Dr

change facilitator,

Gerald Renner,

SMC Group. The

managing director, emerging markets

director of technical regulatory affairs

speakers featured

at Africa, Deloitte & Touche. Dr Davies

at Cosmetics Europe in Belgium.

on this panel

Dr Renner will share a regulatory

discussion include:

overview, trends analysis and

• Richard Sadiki,

Presenters and panel discussions will deliberate ways to stimulate harmonisation and ease trade within the African continent

discussion on the synergies between

SABS international

Europe, America, China and Asia.

relations specialist (SADCSTAN and ARSO), speaking on harmonisation

Panel discussions

practicalities of globally

discussions, featuring

harmonised regulations/ •

Africa and abroad.

focus on barriers to

of the beauty and personal care

trade in Africa. Members

sectors on the African continent by

of the panel include:

Euromonitor International’s associate

• Xoliswa Jafta, IDC’s

a representative from the AfCFTA Committee discussing

On day one of the panel discussions will

2020 | P C Review

standards

industry experts from

Risk’ in his presentation. This will be

12 | FEBRUARY 12

• Dr Renner, speaking about the

is centred on panel

summit, one of the

research analyst, Gugu Mahlangu.

through standards for optimal trade

A large portion of the programme

will shine a ‘Spotlight on Africa Trade followed by a statistical overview

Richard Sad iki of SAB S

the future role of AfCFTA in the African Convergence Xol iswa Jaf ta, IDC ’s sen ior econom ist

senior economist: economic

•

a representative from the South African National Department of Health talking about South Africa in the

African convergence. •

EVENTS

Expo to empower local producers

Based on the theme ‘once a trend: now mainstream’, the Organic & Natural Products Expo 2020 takes place from 8 to 10 May in Johannesburg at the Wanderers Stadium.

T

he Organic & Natural Products

Strategic global alliance

credibility, but also allows us to

Expo is the first show in Africa

The Organic & Natural Products Expo

benefit from lessons learnt in Europe,’

dedicated to the organic and

has partnered with three international

Thomson comments.

natural industry. The expo

is committed to growing the industry, and as such, pursuing a healthier and fairer world.

‘With its unparalleled biodiversity of plant life, Africa is a treasure trove of sustainable and unique raw materials

counterparts to form the ground-

DID YOU KNOW?

breaking Organic Trade Fairs

A major benefit of the alliance is that it

objective is to raise

opens doors for African producers and

awareness and promote The market for natural and organic products is booming. a model which is Over the past two decades healthy in all aspects, organic food and drink sales internationally have environmentally sound, increased from less than takes into account global USD$15 billion to almost USD$90 billion. climate concerns and is

and products unobtainable

respectful of labour rights.

elsewhere in the world. These

Opportunities for SMEs

Alliance. The common

The organisers of the four fairs

suppliers to access export markets via the alliance partners’ buyer databases and joint promotion efforts.

The Organic and Natural Products Expo is set to showcase manufacturers, suppliers, importers and exporters of everything from organic and natural foods and beverages to cosmetics,

products are also in great demand

have committed to providing marketing

supplements, ingredients and household

worldwide,’ says John Thomson of South

platforms and global knowledge

and gardening products.

Africa Trade Promotions – the organisers

exchange forums, to effectively support

of the expo.

the ambitions of the natural and

Wesgro, the City of Johannesburg and

organic sector.

various chambers of commerce are

‘Our goal is not only to showcase these products locally at the event, but to

The Department of Trade & Industry,

‘Being a member of the Organic

developing a series of pavilions within the

create global awareness and viable and

and Trade Fair Alliance not only gives

expo which will offer maximum exposure

long-term export opportunities.’

our South African event international

and opportunities for SME exhibitors. •

AT LAST !!

AN EVENT LONG OVERDUE IN SOUTH AFRICA.......

SUPPORTED BY

THE DECK. WANDERERS STADIUM, CORLETT DRIVE ILLOVO, JOHANNESBURG MAY 8th, 9th, 10th 2020

MEDIA PARTNERS

EXHIBITION PROFILE Food & Beverages Ingredients & Raw Materials Vegan - Halaal - Kosher Supplements Cosmetics & Beauty products Personal care & Hygiene products Home care Organic gardening & farming .....and more

Local & International Buyers

60 Bo % S ok OL No D w!

Over 10 000 consumer visitors to sell to Exhibitor Enquiries: John.t@satp.co.za

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |

13

COMPANY FOCUS

At the forefront of sustainable innovation

As a responsible business, ChemSystems is committed to enabling environmental solutions that will allow for a sustainable future. The company is driven by the ‘AECI Bigger’ values of going green, being engaged and acting responsibly. This is evident in a series of internal developments, which, in the long run, will benefit people, the planet and the industries it serves.

C

hemSystems has always

partners across the globe. By

been a strong player in

combining core scientific expertise

the consumer specialities

with a deep understanding

market, servicing over

of market needs, the

1 200 customers nationally and

company strives to

globally. ChemSystems’ 60-year

deliver raw materials

history is built on a reputation of

that are safe, effective

passion and commitment to creating

and sustainable.

lasting, relevant partnerships with its

AECI is currently

employees, customers and suppliers.

active in 32 countries

Remaining agile in a tough economic

within Africa. The AECI

environment is a key strength for its

Specialty Chemicals

continued success.

business, with its existing

alternatives, test replacement preservative challenge tests

DID YOU KNOW?

and provide a certificate of analysis.

Using Troy biocides,

By embracing the spirit of transformation, AECI Specialty Chemicals is a Level 2 BBBEE contributor

technology partners, will be

ChemSystems will now be taking on a stronger AECI identity with the new name, AECI Specialty Chemicals

ingredients, conduct

leveraging AECI’s existing footprint to

the lab can also test process water and conduct hygiene audits for customers within their manufacturing facilities,

in order to suggest the right biocide to mitigate contamination risks.

offer a complete basket of products to the cosmetics and home care markets.

A creative and driven team AECI Specialty Chemicals constantly

New microbiological lab

strives to offer better and more

To expand its service offering to

sustainable solutions in every part of its

customers, AECI Specialty Chemicals

business. Over the past 12 months, it has

established a new microbiological

made significant appointments to boost

lab in 2019 which is supported

its already diverse and flexible teams,

ChemSystems will now be taking on

by Troy Chemical Corporation, a

which drive internal efficiencies and

a stronger AECI identity with the new

leading preservative and biocide

monitor costs to ensure the company

name, AECI Specialty Chemicals. The

manufacturer. The lab is fully

remains competitive within the market.

company will continue to provide raw

equipped to service a variety of

materials that meet the changing

industries. Global regulatory advice

knowledge and formulation expertise

demands of the cosmetics, home care

and hygiene auditing are also

to assist customers with product

and pharmaceutical industries.

available as a service to customers.

development and frugal innovation

As a proud subsidiary of AECI,

AECI was registered in South Africa

These teams have extensive product

According to Jacques Strydom,

to reduce the complexity and cost of

in 1924 and has been listed on the

technical manager for personal care

producing products. This high level of

JSE since 1996. Since inception,

and home care, the lab has been

creativity and expertise are essential

partnerships have been the heart of

launched as a support function for

to helping customers bring their ideas

its business model – with customers

customers, for development and

to life without passing on the costs

and working closely with its technology

stability testing, to develop formulation

to consumers.

14

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

COMPANY FOCUS

HYDRATE AND RESTORE THE HAIR AND SKIN TRI-K INDUSTRIES, a technology partner of AECI, Specialty Chemicals, launched Hemp Tein Z NPNF – a new protein dedicated to balancing hair and skin health. This novel protein targets the mega health and wellness movement in two ways: by providing a label friendly, on-trend ingredient and delivering proven benefits for skin homeostasis and hair health.

Hemp is described as a superfood and the only vegetable protein with all the essential amino acids required by the human body. It’s used in everything from pharma products to paper, contributing to over 50 000 finished products currently on the market. Beauty products launched with hemp or cannabis claims increased by 127 percent in 2019, according to a Mintel GNPD search.

Hemp Tein Z NPNF harnesses the power of this unique plant to provide potent benefits for skin and hair. It restores epidermal homeostasis, enhances hydration and improves skin texture. After 14 days, clinical study results showed Hemp Tein Z NPNF visibly reduced wrinkles and scaliness by 14 and 32 percent respectively, while increasing skin homogeneity by 30 percent for a more uniform, vibrant and rejuvenated appearance.

In hair care, it strengthens fibres, increases hair’s elasticity and repairs cuticles after chemical damage. Evaluations on bleached Caucasian hair cleansed with a shampoo and rinse-off conditioner showed Hemp Tein Z NPNF increased hair strength by 18 percent and elasticity by 11 percent.

When viewed under scanning electron microscopy, hair fibres treated with Hemp Tein Z NPNF were visibly smoother and more cohesive, leaving it looking healthier and more resilient.

Hemp Tein Z NPNF is an environmental and label friendly product, which is pending Cosmos approval. It’s made from recycled biomass created during the process used to extract hemp oil. Derived from the seeds of the Cannabis Sativa plant, Hemp Tein Z NPNF is organically sourced, water soluble, non-GMO and free from gluten, THC and CBD.

With its manufacturing capabilities at AECI ChemPark, AECI Specialty Chemicals is equipped to produce concentrated blends for customer specific products. This offers added value to customers, which also benefit from the company’s basket of tailormade solutions.

AECI Specialty Chemicals recognises that customers have different needs and these needs change, therefore the AECI personal care and home care team, together with the

Lydia Letsoalo, technical service chemist; Jacques Strydom, technical manager; and Davina Pillay, microbiologist

creativity and innovation of the technology partners, continues to offer win-win solutions for customers,

Charmaine Du Preez, personal care product manager at ChemSystems

suppliers and its own business.

Responsible and compliant

Fund, which supports a number of

Located at AECI ChemPark, in Kempton

enterprise and supplier development

Park, Gauteng, AECI Specialty

initiatives in the AECI value chain.

Chemicals is proud of its accreditations,

Another significant achievement

certifications and ongoing compliance.

for AECI Specialty Chemicals was

In 2019, AECI attained a zero TRIR or

the Chemical and Allied Industries’

total recordable injury rate, living up its

Association (CAIA) responsible care

‘zero harm’ mandate. The group is also

award, awarded to its Umbogintwini

ISO 9001, 14001, 18001 approved and

site in November 2019. The award

has been rated a Level 2 Broad-Based

recognises the achievement of

Black Economic Empowerment (B-BBEE)

companies that go above and beyond

Contributor. This is significant for AECI,

the responsible management of

which, as a group, has progressed

chemical products and processes. •

significantly from Level 8 to Level 2 in just two years. Its progress has been assisted by better reporting, more investment in skills development and

AECI Specialty Chemicals – charmaine.dupreez@aeciworld.com Jacques.Strydom@aeciworld.com

training as well as the Good Chemistry

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |

15

PRESERVATIVES

Formulation advice in a time of fading preservative options With listed preservatives, ensuring the safe and reliable preservation of cosmetics is becoming increasingly challenging. In response, Evonik offers the dermosoft and Verstatil lines − two safe and effective solutions for antimicrobial protection of cosmetics, fulfilling the requirements of each formulator. By Vanessa Lahn of Evonik Nutrition & Care

F

or a long time, questions

off products, which led to a general ban

necessary, recommends restricting the

regarding the right preservative

of MDBG in 2007 and its deletion from

application of a preservative or even to

system in cosmetics have been

Annex V.1

delete it completely from Annex V.

European legislators created a list of

Complications in the mix

reports on other popular preservatives

approved preservatives, called Annex

Cosmetic products, emulsions

listed in Annex V. It is well conceivable

V of the EU Cosmetic Regulation. It is

especially, offer ideal growth conditions

that these reports might also lead to

comparable with the Annex IV of the

for microorganisms and need to be

restrictions or prohibitions in the future.

South- African cosmetic regulation – Act

preserved. Preservation is achieved

No. 54 OF 1972.

by antimicrobial ingredients whose

factor determining the fate of a

neglected by most formulators.

These annexes are filled with a wide

So far, the SCCS has conducted several

Public perception is another important

properties also bear a potential for

preservative. Media reports and blogs

range of substances selected with

undesirable side effects. Because of

can quickly discredit the reputation of a

respect to their antimicrobial efficacy.

an animal testing ban anchored in

preservative in the eyes of the consumer.

Beyond this, they often showed little

the European Cosmetic Regulation,

The case of parabens is a perfect

influence on the physical parameters of

the development and listing of new

example, even though scientific data

the finished product. This comfortable

preservatives has become extremely

has reaffirmed their safety at the legal

situation has fundamentally changed

difficult. These developments have limited

usage concentrations.

in recent years as it turned out many

the selection of preservatives and are

of these listed preservatives exhibited

complicating the development of new

skin irritating or sensitising potentials. As

cosmetic products.

a consequence, the application of a

The current version of the positive list for

Reformulating with smart systems There are two considerations for

growing number of listed preservatives

preservatives is Annex V of the 1223/2009/

developers of cosmetics to adjust their

has been restricted or in some cases

EG Cosmetic Regulation. The most

preservative system in a formulation.

preservatives were even eliminated from

recent update to this annex occurred in

They can either alter their existing

the list.

December 2019, when Hydroxyethoxy-

preservative system according to the

Phenyl Butanone (HEPB) was added as

new regulations, or they exchange

of a preservative’ in Annex V is

a new preservative approved for use

problematic preservatives and rebuild

Methyldibromoglutaronitrile (MDBG).

in cosmetic products at a maximum

their preservative system from scratch. The

In 1983, after its admission, MDBG was

concentration of 0.7 percent in ready for

latter solution is more labour-intensive,

well-accepted amongst formulators, due

use preparations.2

but in the long term some interesting

A good example of this ‘lifecycle

to its reliable antimicrobial properties

The approval of new preservatives

marketing opportunities may arise. In

and good price-performance ratio. In

in Annex V is a complex procedure,

the end, a smartly designed preservative

the course of its popularity, MDBG was

including extensive toxicological

concept helps to avoid bad press and

increasingly incorporated in cosmetics

studies. Once approved, preservatives

prevents consumers from having to adapt

products. However its extensive use

are subject to supervision by regional

to future restrictions or public pressure. This

correlated with an increased number

authorities. They collect data about

raises the question – what does a smart

of reported cases of contact allergies.

observed side effects and hand in this

preservative system such as this looks like?

In 2005, the Scientific Committee on

information to the SCCS of the European

Consumer Safety (SCCS) recommended

Commission. This committee of experts

for globally approved raw materials,

a restriction of MDBG application to rinse-

evaluates the existing data and, if

economic interests and expectations

16

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

Marketing claims, regulatory demands

PRESERVATIVES about the production process influence the decision. To circumnavigate the use of critical preservatives, Evonik offers, under the Verstatil line, a range of non critisised listed preservatives in combination with synergistically acting multifunctional additives. For instance, Verstatil TBG MB

A smartly designed preservative concept helps to avoid bad press

introduces triethyl citrate as an innovative solvent system for preservation blends in cosmetics, together with the listed

Functional ingredients might also interact and disturb the preservation

preservative benzoic acid and a surface-active wetting

system. These include pigments, lecithins, polar oils, UV filters or aloe

agent from the dermosoft range. This broadband effective

vera. To avoid these incompatibilities, sound formulating know-how

blend is an economic and reliable solution for certified

and a general understanding of the applied ingredients are essential.

natural cosmetics.

Based on many years’ experience in the field of alternative and modern preservation, Evonik Dr. Straetmans provides solutions

Antimicrobial multifunctionals

for a variety of problems. In addition, it offers blends with a broad

The dermosoft line includes a variety of multifunctional

antimicrobial activity, such as dermosoft OMP, dermosoft MCAV MB

raw materials and blends, not listed as preservatives under

or Verstatil BOB. These blends are easy to apply and can be used

Annex V of the European Cosmetic Regulation. These

in a wide range of product concepts. In South Africa, Evonik Dr.

multifunctionals also offer more than the opportunity to

Straetmans is now represented by Orchem. •

work without listed preservatives. The group of established organic acids and wetting agents provides additional

REFERENCES

cosmetic benefits such as moisturising, co-emulsifying or co-

1. Commission Directive 2007/17/EC, Annex VI

solubilising as well as antimicrobial activity. The high surface

2. 1223/2009/EG Cosmetic Regulation, Annex V

activity of amphiphilic wetting agents, such as dermosoft GMCY MB and dermosoft Octiol, destabilises microbial cell membranes and, when incorrectly applied, can also account for instabilities of emulsions in a concentrationdependent way. At lower concentrations, wetting agents can actively support the development of stable emulsions

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Vanessa Lahn is business development manager product protection at Evonik Nutrition & Care, based in Hamburg, Germany.

and provide good antimicrobial protection.

Synergies with other multifunctionals, such as the organic acids from the dermosoft range, can also be explored.

The synergistic antimicrobial effect between relatively low concentrations of wetting agents and organic acids, like dermosoft anisate, is the result of wetting agents altering the permeability of the microbial cell membrane thereby allowing the organic acids to penetrate more easily into the microorganisms where it unfolds its antimicrobial efficacy.

Understanding ingredient interactions Besides the destabilisation effects on emulsions, interactions between ingredients can also influence the effectiveness of a preservation system. Surface active wetting agents, for example, have limited antimicrobial activity in rinse-off products because they tend to interact with the micelle structures of the surfactants in the product, deactivating them.

Protect your formulations with cosmetic preservatives from ISCA UK, proudly distributed in South Africa

by Chempack Industries.

Chempack Industries | Contact: Linda Thieme | 083 600 0167 / 064 610 2736 | Email: linda@cpack.co.za | Website: www.cpack.co.za

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |

17

PRESERVATIVES

Preserving the impossible: natural-based face masks

Cleansing masks enriched with natural ingredients such as mud and clay are considered especially challenging to preserve. Naama Eylon of Sharon Laboratories shows how understanding hurdles and evaluating different systems can bring solutions to this interesting segment.

F

acial masks are a trendy, growing

Table 1: Dead sea mud face mask formulation guide

contamination, while keeping in mind the sensitive facial area and usage

segment in personal

patterns of facial masks. Sharon

care yet the preservation

Laboratories has developed a

of these products is not an

potential solution that offers high

easy task. Each type of mask

efficacy along with much needed

has different challenges to

flexibility. This solution is based

overcome. For example, sheet

on the company’s extensive work

masks, where the fabric adds

done on facial masks applications,

to the complexity, require a

starting with the raw materials and

different approach than face

progressing onto formulations.

The study suggests that working

masks in a clear gel form. For masks that should be left on the

with specifically enhanced

skin for a duration of 20 minutes

preservative systems will provide

and applied on sensitive areas,

broad spectrum protection for

irritation is a major concern.

both the mud itself as well as the face mask formulation. The

Masks containing mud and clay are highly preferred

solution required is a high efficacy

cleansing facial masks.

system, allowing a significantly

Based on their use of natural

reduced use level, generating

ingredients, they are considered ‘safe’ by consumers. This isn’t

the industry standard to treat

surprising as it’s a common perception

mud, as very few acceptable

that natural is better or safer in beauty

preservatives can meet the

products. But just because an ingredient

challenge to eliminate the

originates from nature, doesn’t mean it’s

microbial risk.

safe for use.

The preservation of facial masks is a balancing act For mud and clay, it is even more critical,

as these ingredients can carry everything

Even when the material is sterile, as it is introduced to the formula, the interaction with water could generate a preservation issue.

Combining the original state of the raw materials and its interaction in the formula raises the need for a high efficacy solution.

originating from the ground, including would not know the origin of the mud

Balancing high efficacy and sensitivity

and how is it processed or treated. A

The preservation of facial masks

typical bacteria count in mud could be

is a balancing act – delivering

10 5 to 10^7. A costly radiation process is

efficacy against microbial

microorganisms. Often, the formulator

18

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

Table 2: Bentonite and kaolin face mask formulation guide

PRESERVATIVES Figure 1

Figure 2

the benefits of higher compatibility

system used at a level of 0.7 percent. Figure

and reduced risk of irritation. All the

1 shows show the great results of both tests

isn’t guaranteed with naturally derived

preservative systems mentioned in the

– after 48 hours all five microorganisms had

ingredients. In fact, in the world of

case studies were tested and found to be

a significant log reduction to <10, showing

preservation, this is often the opposite.

suitable for sensitive skin.

the flexibility of the system to handle high

Masks with mud and minerals

When formulating cleansing facial

risk material while meeting market needs for

masks with natural ingredients, all of the

low usage levels.

above must be taken into account to

Using another enhanced preservation

A chosen preservative system (INCI:

The results of these tests show safety

search for the right solution to answer

Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl

system, (INCI Phenoxyethanol,

efficacy, formula compatibility, product

Glycol, Didecyldimonium Chloride

Ethylhexylglycerin, Didecyldimonium

claims, regulatory compliance and of

– patent pending) was used at one

Chloride – patent pending), the

course, safety. •

percent on untreated, non-radiated

aforementioned study was performed on a

mud sourced from the Dead Sea area.

bentonite and kaolin face mask (see Table

The test generated TMAC results of <10,

2) with similar positive results.

avoiding the costly radiation process and circumventing the need to change

Free-from claims

from an existing harsh preservative to a

To answer the call for free-from

consumer-oriented option.

preservation needs in facial cleansing

The next step involved testing the efficacy

masks, a similar study was done on

of the chosen preservative in a formulation

a phexnoyethanol-free system (INCI:

containing 20 percent Dead Sea mud (see

Methylpropanediol, Caprylyl Glycol,

Table 1). A challenge test was performed

Polyquaternium-80, Didecyldimonium

on non-radiated mud preserved with one

Chloride – patent-pending). This system,

percent of the chosen preservative system.

used on the same tough to preserve

An additional challenge test was carried

formulation containing 20 percent mud,

out on a formulation with 20 percent

successfully protected the product at a

treated mud, preserved with the same

level of 0.8 percent (see Figure 2).

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Naama Eylon is the vice president of personal care at Sharon Laboratories.

She has been in global business development and marketing with leading international manufacturing companies for over 15 years. Eylon specialises in bringing new products from concept to reality.

CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Sharon Laboratories – www.sharon-labs.com

High efficacy preservative solution for facial masks enriched with natural ingredients

It’s a matter of balance

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |

19

PHARMA FOCUS//Cannabis FOCUS

High-quality Cannabis testing assured Chem-Science Laboratories has announced the establishment of its dedicated Cannabis laboratory in KwaZulu-Natal.

CHEM-SCIENCE AND BIO-SCIENCE LABORATORIES The business was started in the Durban North home of Vic Soffiantini, an experienced and qualified analytical chemist. Soffiantini has extensive experience analysing fertilisers, chemicals and Chem-Science Laboratories’ chief chemist, Simon Thompson performing the initial steps of a Cannabis sample analysis

M

working in the sugar and dairy industries. He also worked in various consulting laboratories.

In 1991, the company moved to bigger premises at John Ross House in central Durban.

anaging director, Vic

include final powders, tinctures and

During this time, many science students did their

Soffiantini says this

oil extracts.

successful in-service training with the company.

Compliant and service orientated

premises in Umbilo Road, Durban.

Cannabis industry has created for local

Chem-Science Laboratories can perform a

of two laboratories – the one chemical and the

high-quality testing.

full spectrum test on customers’ products,

other, microbiological.

In 2004, the laboratories moved to larger

development is a direct result of the need to

meet the requirements the exploding

We have invested in specialised equipment and professionals to bring cannabis testing online ‘We have invested in specialised

providing them with conclusive data on the

equipment and professionals to bring

potency, pesticide, residual solvent and

Cannabis testing online,’ he enthuses.

terpenes, using on one test sample.

‘We aim to be a recognised accredited

‘Good Laboratory Practice is in place to ensure correct control throughout

laboratory that complies with the current

the laboratory via our ISO 9001 Quality

Good Laboratory Practice and ISO/IEC

Management System.’

17025,’ Soffiantini concludes. •

Quantitative assays will be used to ascertain the volume of THC, CBD, CBC, CBG and /or CBN in the respective

Chem-Science Laboratories – www.chemsciencelaboratories.com

Chem-Science Laboratories initially consisted

In March 2003, the microbiology laboratory broke away from Chem-Science Laboratories to become a separate legal entity known as BioScience Technologies.

Due to rapid expansion, it was necessary to upgrade the legal identity of the small business.

Chem-Science Laboratories became a fully established company in 2012.

To date, both companies have trained well over 100 students and graduates. Soffianti and his team are committed to establishing a competent base of future technologists and scientists for South African industries and research laboratories.

identification samples. Samples can

Comprehensive Cannabis Testing Including Potency & Microbiological Screening Now Available!

Quantitative Potency testing of THC and CBD on your flower / bud, oils and edibles.

Comprehensive Cannabinoid testing THCA; THC; CBDA; CBD; CBN; CBC & CBG. As well as screening for the toxic Terpenes!

Also, as required by some growers, dispensers, doctors and clinicians: Residual Solvents, Chemical Contamination and toxic Heavy Metals Pesticide Residue Screening Microbiological examinations: Yeast, Mould, Aspergillus, Salmonella, Coliforms & E.coli.

“Chem-Science aims to be a recognized accredited laboratory that complies with the current Good Laboratory Practice and ISO/IEC 17025.”

Contact us: info@chemsciencelaboratories.com or phone 031 206-1390.

20

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

PHARMA FOCUS//Cannabis FOCUS

A golden perspective on medical marijuana

Although the medicinal Cannabis industry is still in its infancy, it’s experiencing unprecedented levels of growth and investment. CanbiGold is positioned to positively impact this rapid expansion with its expertise in the design, modification and manufacture of unique modular growth units for the industry. By Abby Vorster

A

ccording to a new report by Grand View Research, the size of the global legal Cannabis market is expected to reach

US$66.3 billion by the end of 2025. It’s anticipated to expand at a CAGR of 23.9 percent during the forecast period with increasing legalisation and the use of marijuana in medical applications driving this growth.

Based on the extensive range of

A graphical representation of a CanbiGold fortress

therapeutic benefits of Cannabis, ranging from pain and stress relief to effectively managing cancer, dementia and Alzheimer’s, CBD has made its way

significant portion of land, while R&D and the

development of CBD-infused tampons to

into health supplements, oils, cosmetics

production of 99 percent CBD products take

assist women with menstrual pain and

and foodstuffs.

place in its Cape Town based laboratory,

cramping. Working with brand owner, Foxy

under pharmaceutical conditions.

Pink, the two companies developed the

Leon van der Linde, CEO of

unique tampon, which is said to provide

Major global investment One of the first South African businesses

CanbiGold, says the past 12 months

users with a soothing, tension-melting

to capitalise on the ‘green gold rush’ is

have been significant for the business.

effect, delivering 10mg of CBD directly to

CanbiGold. Based in the Western Cape,

In November 2019, the company took

the area where it’s needed most.

CanbiGold is a vertically integrated,

part in The Cannabis Expo at the Sandon

private company that specialises in the

Convention Centre where it secured a

include blending African and Cannabis

cultivation and production of medicinal

whopping R600 million deal with Koomo

extracts together in nutraceutical

cannabis and related products utilising

Capital, an investment business from

formulations to help curb the symptoms of

unique patented intellectual property.

the US, and Canngea, Australia’s only

various ailments, including insomnia, IBS,

It has also developed unique modular

medical cannabis licensed contract

crohn’s disease and colon cancer.

growth units, which meet international

manufacturing organisation.

Additional R&D efforts of the company

CanbiGold is also researching alternative ways to medicate with CBD

ISO standards, allowing new or current ventures to scale up on growing,

Innovation and R&D

such as inhalation, electronic cigarettes

vegetation, flowering and drying modules

CanbiGold is also making significant

and absorption via the vaginal tract. •

as necessary.

inroads in Cannabis-based nutraceutical

CanbiGold’s cultivation occurs in the

and health and wellness product

Maseru Special Economic Zone in Lesotho

development. Van der Linde says the

where the company has secured a

company played a pivotal role in the

CanbiGold – www.canbigold.com

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |

21

PHARMA FOCUS//Cannabis FOCUS

Turn-key solutions for the medical Cannabis industry Afriplex strives to provide clients with innovative and unique product offerings for the CAMs, botanicals and food and beverage markets.

With this in mind, it is always pursuing new areas of research and technological development to retain its competitive edge.

B

In 2019, Afriplex showcased its services at the CannaTech Summit. This prestigious international event focussed on the Cannabis industry and took place in Cape Town from 24 to 26 November

ecoming a significant role player

international research institutions. One

in the fast-growing South African

such project involves assisting the institute

Cannabis industry was a natural

with the integration of its new South African

systems are being developed. Afriplex is

progression for Afriplex and led to

developed track and trace system using

focused on utilising several state-of-the-

Afriplex’s quality management system.

art nanotechnologies to develop unique

the establishment of a dedicated business division mainly focussed on medical

This will ensure comprehensive traceability

dosage forms with emphasis on controlled

Cannabis product development and

of Cannabis materials and products in

API release and improved bioavailability.

manufacturing. The company also offers

African countries where Afriplex offers

We are proud to announce the

other services to this market, such as the

custom-built facilities and technologies.

commercialisation of a new brand, known as Lipozome®. This technology will enable

design and construction of cultivation and processing facilities, toll processing services

Smart drug delivery R&D

improved bioavailability, better protection

and analytical services.

The company is also investing in

against degradation, unpleasant flavour

the development of smart drug

masking and targeted drug delivery.’

Afriplex is proud to be the dedicated Cannabis testing laboratory for the Cannabis Research Institute (CRI). In

delivery methods.

Danie Nel, MD of Afriplex, comments:

Afriplex and its partners are currently scaling up production on a new multimillion-

addition to maintaining rigorous Cannabis

‘The method by which a drug is delivered

rand facility with scheduled release for the

testing standards for locally produced

can have a significant effect on its efficacy.

third quarter of 2020. •

and imported product, Afriplex also

To minimise drug degradation, prevent

conducts several novel research projects

harmful side-effects and increase drug

in collaboration with the CRI and other

bioavailability, various delivery and targeting

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| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

Afriplex – www.afriplex.co.za

fulfilling the dream of more natural sunscreens — antaron™ eco ethylcellulose

New Antaron™ ECo ethylcellulose is a nature-derived film former that provides excellent water resistance in light feeling emulsions and sprays. ashland.com/eco

Exclusive Agents in South Africa

® Registered trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries ™ Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries ©2020, Ashland PHC20-140

SUN CARE

BASF increases UV filter production capacities

Highly effective and reliable UV filters, a special oil and emulsifier selection for formulations with great sensory appeal, products for all skin types and each exposure level – BASF’s sun care segment develops trendsetting solutions for the growing skin protection market. The company draws on proven expertise to address consumers’ innermost needs – such as trusted protection and effective long-term damage prevention.

A

s market leader in producing

home to the global competence centre for

introduced a methodology to

UV filters and ingredients used

the development of new UV filters and the

assess the environmental impact

in sun care products, BASF is

company’s technical service, which advises

of sunscreen formulations.

undertaking various production

producers of sunscreen products around

Consumers are increasingly aware of

expansion activities for its UV filters, to

the world on the best filter combinations

the impact sunscreens can have on

continue to support the global market

and formulations.

demand and customer growth worldwide.

Reducing bottlenecks at its production

Ludwigshafen, several

sites Grenzach and Ludwigshafen was a first

UV filters of the Uvinul

step in the expansion plan and will lead to

product range are

double digit percent increase of production

produced. Tinosorb

capacities, for example, for the value chains

S is produced at the

of Tinosorb S, Uvinul A Plus and Uvinul T150.

Kaohsiung site

The global demand for modern UV filters increased in recent years, driven by the

ecosystems, with an emphasis on

At the production site in

in Taiwan.

BASF is the world’s

DID YOU KNOW?

the wellbeing of coral reefs and they are also willing

Tinosorb S is excellent in UVA and UVB absorption and is used as a standard for high SPF sunscreens.

Uvinul A Plus is perfect in absorbing UVA radiation, whereas Uvinul T150 is the most efficient UVB filter in the market.

to consider and adapt their own consumption.

In response, some brands have begun labelling their sun care products according to the biodegradability of specific ingredients. This

growing awareness of the importance of

leading provider of

sun care for optimal skin health and due

ingredients used in UV

to certain reformulation trends, such as the

protection products. Four of the last

move towards octocrylene-free products

five UV filters approved for use in the EU

wearing sunscreen swims in the sea, the

in Europe.

have been developed by the company. Its

product comes in contact with the marine

portfolio of sun protection products includes

life. Yet research and different studies

a wide range of care ingredients used in the

looking at the impact of sun care products

production of sunscreens.

on coral are still in their infancy.

when applied in combination, set a

Environmental considerations

asked for help to find solutions in terms of

benchmark for broad spectrum protection.

Based on a sense of environmental

which ingredients are harmful and what the

Its facility in Grenzach produce UV filters

responsibility, scientific discipline and

cumulative impact is on the environment

used in sunscreen products. The site is also

sensitivity to consumers’ wishes, BASF has

when a range of ingredients are put

Setting a benchmark BASF’s expansion activities concentrate

approach is incomplete and even misleading. When a person

The entire personal care industry is being

on three aforementioned UV filters, which,

together to make a formulation?

For these reasons, BASF has launched the EcoSun Pass, which provides customers with a solution to test the effects of their products on various relevant environmental factors such as water, sediment and soil. •

BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com

24

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

Now in South Africa

Solvay is a multi-specialty chemical company, committed to developing chemistry that addresses key societal challenges.

Solvayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main objective in Personal Care is to support its customers with technical solutions on surfactants, natural & synthetic polymers, fragrances and precipitated silica to provide end market solutions. Hence, Solvay develops and manufactures a broad range of solutions that delivers benefits to support its customers success.

CONTACT US Solomon L. Lamola T: +27 12 349 5150 M: +27 63 502 1621 C102 The Woods, 41 Dehavilland Cresc Persequor Park, 0020, Pretoria www.solvay.com

SUN CARE

Boost your SPF performance Scientific studies have proven that wearing sun protection products on a regular basis can protect skin against cancer. But how do formulators resolve formulation challenges to meet the growing demand for high SPF (>30) in daily-wear skin care products and colour cosmetics?

A

ccording to Solvay, the demand for sun care products with a higher SPF is as a direct result of

consumers increased awareness of the ageing effects of sun exposure.

Consumers also want these higher SPF products at more affordable prices and with improved sensorial

Table 1: Solvay Formulation SC-16-065

Ingredient Isohexadecane

4.0

Ethylhexyl Cocoate

6.0

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

UV-B

6.0

Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane**

UV-B

4.0

Phenylbenzimidazoyl Sulfonate (30% active)

UV-B

10.0

benefits, such as non-sticky, light in

Rheomer SC-Plus

6.0

texture and easy to apply.

Water

g.s.

Concerns surrounding the safety of ingredients are also growing

Total UV Filters Active

13

with formulators seeking to use less

Calculated/Exp SPF

18

or none at all of the ingredients

In vivo SPF***

46

considered controversial.

Rheomer SC-Plus (INCI Acrylates/

Rheomer SC-Plus is a patented polymer providing excellent SPF boosting properties

Sun care product formulation with organic UV Filters

Beheneth-25 Methacrylate

properties when formulated with

elevated rheology benefits. In vivo

Copolymer) is a patented polymer

organic, or a combination of organic

studies indicate an SPF increase of as

providing excellent SPF boosting

and inorganic UV filters. It also has

much as 2.5 times of the estimated SPF value, enabling the formulation of high SPF products with a lower dosage of sunscreen actives.

Rheomer SC-Plus from Solvay Polymers and Chemicals South Africa exhibits excellent SPF boosting performance, as shown in Figure 1.

This polymer works exceptionally well

Key benefits of Rheomer SC-Plus • SPF boosting of up to 155%** • excellent suspension ability as it stabilises o/w systems containing particles • outstanding emulsification and thickening in o/w emulsions • good electrolyte tolerance as it stabilises electrolyte containing o/w formulations • improved sensory benefits such as a smooth, non-tacky feel after dry down • supplied in liquid form for ease of use during processing • cold-processable, which saves energy during processing.

26

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

SUN CARE

Innovative applications

Figure 1

Powerful suspending ability A yield value is typically used

RHEOMER SC-PLUS is suitable for

as an indication of a polymer’s

use in sun care products containing

ability to suspend particles.

organic UV filters (oil and water

Therefore, the higher the yield,

soluble), and combination organic and

the better the suspending ability.

inorganic UV filters.

As shown in Figure 4, Rheomer

It is also ideal for multi-functional

SC-Plus exhibits concentration

or multi-benefit skin care products

dependent yield values which

containing particulates (e.g. pigments)

are high enough to provide

and electrolytes, such as BB or CC

SPF boosting performance (in vivo SPF: 3 subject; Dermatest Australia, Protocol: ISO24444:2010)

creams, day wear products with UV protection and skin care benefits, and low viscosity o/w formulations like milks

presence of traditional emulsifiers.

Table 2: Solvay’s Emulsifier-free sunscreen formulation

Phase Ingredient

A

% To 100

Rheomer SC-Plus

6

TEA Solution

B

C

g.s.

Isohexadecane

4

Ethylhexyl Cocoate

6

Octylmethoxycinnamate

6

Butylmethoxydibenzoyl Methane

4

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (neutralised with TEA), 30% solution

why it provides excellent stability to o/w systems, even without the

or sprays for body, skin and sun care.

Water

suspension to a variety of materials. This is one of the reasons

Rheology performance in o/w systems

an outstanding agent for stabilising

Rheomer SC-Plus provides best in class

formulations containing pigments

electrolyte tolerance. Additionally, it

and inorganic UV filters, such as

exhibits excellent stabilisation even in

titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. •

This also makes Rheomer SC-Plus

emulsifier-free systems. Figure 3 shows the viscosity profile of an emulsifierfree emulsion containing different levels of salt (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonate – PBSA)

Solvay Polymers and Chemicals South Africa – www.solvay.com/en/south-africa

Figure 2

2/5/10

in formulations containing oil and water-soluble chemical UV filters, where it also functions as the only

Figure 3

emulsifier and emulsion stabiliser. In systems containing chemical and physical UV filters, it is recommended to include a traditional emulsifier

Dynamic microscope images of sunscreen formulation with Rheomer SC-Plus, at six percent: 1. Upon application (before drying) 2. After drying 3. Close up of view 2

in addition to Rheomer SC-Plus for Viscosity profile of an emulsifier-free emulsion. Formulations passed four weeks stability trials at 50°C, and 12 weeks at 40°C and RT

optimum stability and performance.

Mechanism of SPF boosting Rheomer SC-Plus helps create a uniform size of the dispersed phase (containing UV filters) in o/w systems and provides a durable film around

Figure 4

Yield value versus polymer concentration (as supplied)

the dispersed phase, minimising coalescence. This helps to maintain the droplet size uniformity even after water has evaporated.

Very little coalescence of the oil droplets is observed after drying of the emulsion. This ensures an even distribution of sunscreen on the skin, optimising the efficiency of UV protection.

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |

27

SUN CARE

Pioneering stability science to improve sunscreen performance Sun care products present some of the most daunting challenges for beauty and personal care formulators. Adding to this complexity, nearly every global region has its own consumer preferences and SPF/PFA rules. Hallstar offers decades of sun care expertise and unique formulation solutions.

R

epresented locally by Millchem,

AvoBrite is the first cost-effective, globally

Hallstar has pioneered

approved and China-compliant solution

photostability science. Today it

for stabilising Avobenzone and

offers one of the most powerful

combinations thereof. It has

and unique photostabilisation, anti-

been clinically proven to

ageing and sun protection technologies

protect Avobenzone

on the market.

from degrading upon

HallBrite EZ-FLO ZDX Plus. These products combine the benefits of industry leading zinc oxide performance with built-in

DID YOU KNOW?

photostabilisation technology.

with the option to create entirely unique,

Micah is the first and Emollients only product on the market Adding a variety of sensory that stops sun damage before it begins. Independent enhancing characteristics sun exposure and testing has proven that Micah and textures to releasing damaging effectively prevents reactive oxygen species formulations, emollients free radicals. Colourless and markers associated with inflammation, offer elegant slip, light skin and smooth, with AvoBrite photo-ageing, redness feel, quick-spreading, thick sun care products can and irritation.

Source: Hallstar conditioning, slower spread and safely maximise the strong UV

customer-specific formulated solutions.

absorption powers of Avobenzone

Its state of the art global laboratories offer

and enter lucrative new markets.

The company is well known for its deep competency in photostability science, ester chemistry, emulsifiers and functional naturals. Its broad portfolio includes thousands of ready-made formulations

onsite in vitro testing with solar simulation and unsurpassed technical support.

According to Hallstar, SolaStay S1 is the

heavier skin feel benefits.

HallBrite PSF is a versatile emollient with the aesthetic of silicone. It lends a silky

most powerful photostabiliser currently on

feel to lotions and creams, while providing

the market. It preserves the effectiveness of

enhanced substantivity and water

Photostabilisation and anti-ageing

UV filters by interacting with both the singlet

resistance. It also has superior organic

and triplet states. It also returns UV filters

compatibility and provides formulations with

Unlike UV filters that strongly absorb solar

to their ground states – without absorbing

anti-whitening and tack-reducing benefits.

radiation, the effectively non-absorbing

sunlight. An outstanding solvent for

SolaStay products from Hallstar provide

crystalline UV filters, SolaStay S1 is suitable for

this emollient is ideal for daily wear and sun

a stabilisation effect to formulations by

use in lotions, creams, sprays and stick and

care applications.

returning UV filters to their ground states.

gel formulations.

HallBrite BHB is a highly effective solubiliser

Aiding in the dispersion of metal oxides,

The highly functional ingredient Sensolene is endowed with emollient

for sunscreen actives and an excellent

Mineral dispersions

properties that provide high levels of skin

carrier and dispersant for micronised

The innovative mineral UV filter systems from

compatibility with a smooth formulation

titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. It has a low

Hallstar use zinc oxide and titanium dioxide

appearance and texture. Thanks to its

viscosity and polarity higher than traditional

to refract and reflect light away from the

polarity, Sensolene can help solubilise

solvents. This product also improves

skin. HallBrite EZ-FLO TDX solves the aesthetic

crystalline UV filters while providing a lighter

formulation aesthetics while imparting an

and sensory challenges of using mineral UV

touch to higher SPF sunscreens.

elegant moisturising feel.

filters by encasing them in a patented C3+

TAN Oléobooster offers a 100 percent

Cosmos approved Sensolene Care DD is

coating. As a surface-treated mineral UV

a dynamic emollient that offers protective

natural way to boost tanning while

filter, it’s delivered in a readily flowing liquid

effects and excellent spreading properties.

preventing UV damage. It contains a lipo-

dispersion that promotes stability in both

The low temperature melting point, similar

solubilised form of tyrosine – the enzyme that

mineral and mixed organic and mineral UV

to skin’s temperature, gives the product

stimulates melanin. A dose of only

filter systems as well as reduced whitening

unique sensorial features. The clinically

0.33 percent safely intensifies melanin

and improved UV attenuation.

tested calming properties of Sensolene

production up to 85.2 percent.

Polycrylene is a triplet state-quenching

Combining the benefits of a readily flowable zinc oxide dispersion with Hallstar’s

Care DD make it a perfect ingredient for aftersun products.

photostabiliser ideal for customers seeking

patented photostabilisation expertise, the

to replace octocrylene as a photostabiliser

newest additions to its mineral dispersion

lipid with sebum recovering activities. Its

for Avobenzone.

line include HallBrite EZ-FLO ZDX and

strong emolliency and lubricant properties

28

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

Olivem 300 is a water-soluble functional

SUN CARE

AvoBrite sun care products can safely maximise the strong UV absorption powers of Avobenzone and enter lucrative new markets

Spectrasolv DMDA is a highly polar

Olivem 900 (also Cosmos approved)

solubiliser particularly suited to high SPF

is a PEG-free co-emulsifier for W/O and

formulations. It has superior solvency

W/S systems. It is designed to improve

compared to traditional esters and improves

the dispersion of the mineral UV filters

the freeze-thaw stability of emulsions.

in sun care and decorative cosmetics formulations. The film-forming benefits also

Emulsifiers Hallstar emulsifiers use complex

provide water-resistance properties.

Olivem LV Flex is a versatile O/W primary

combinations of fatty acids that optimise

emulsifier designed for light, hyper-fluid

offer a distinctive skin smoothness and

the uniformity and stability of formulations.

and sprayable emulsions while ensuring

long-term moisturising effects, making it also

These naturally derived ingredients are

a pleasant skin feel. It also shows good

good choice for after sun products.

also proven to reduce skin irritation and

compatibility with various rheology modifiers

enhance SPF while lending exquisite skin

for use in a wide pH range.

Solubilisers These multifunctional ingredients provide

feel to emulsions.

Olivem 2020/Olivem 2020 G is a next-

Engineered to increase viscosity and stability

superior solvency for solid sun care actives,

generation, naturally derived cold process

while imparting pleasant

while offering excellent spreadability and

emulsifier offering excellent performance,

sensorial benefits, Cosmos

additional resistance against wash off.

natural dermollient functionality, superior

approved Olivem

Hallstar offers moderately polar and highly

sensorial benefits and hydration. Inspired

VS Feel is an O/W

polar solubilizer options to suit specific

by olive oil chemistry, Olivem 2020’s

emulsifier that

formulation needs.

biomimetic properties have been clinically

greatly reduces the

proven to soothe and restore human skin.

soaping effect

HallBrite BHB has moderate polarity and low viscosity. It serves as an excellent carrier

Olivem 1000 (Cosmos approved) is said

and dispersant for micronised titanium

to be industry’s first PEG-free self-emulsifying

dioxide, zinc oxide and cosmetic colorants.

biomimetic ingredient that supports a wide

This product also improves formulation

range of functions, including anti-ageing,

aesthetics while imparting an elegant

anti-redness, luminescence, hydration and

moisturising feel.

maximising the sun protection factor.

of emulsions. •

Hallstar – www.hallstar.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |

29

SUN CARE

Regulatory Notification

UV filter EU safety update On 13 December, the EU Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety adopted the ‘Opinion on Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (S87) – Submission II’ by written procedure. Anina van der Walt of Acuservices discusses the outcome as this may have an influence on sun care product development in sunny South Africa.

The use of S87 as a UV filter in cosmetic products is safe up to a maximum concentration of three percent interesting cosmetic product substance and ingredient safety assessment information, which applies to the South African market and may be worth reviewing.

Final safety assessments concluded: 1. Alkyl Amide MIPA, of which 14 ingredients were found safe with qualifications 2. Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, one ingredient was tested with an insufficient conclusion

B

for impurities and phototoxicity aspects ased on the data submitted,

ingredients contained in the Cosmetics

the EU Scientific Committee

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.

mixture have been concluded safe with qualifications

for Consumer Safety (SCCS) concluded that the use of

3. MCI/MI, two ingredients and one

Opinions nearing finalisation

4. Mannitol, Sorbitol and Xylitol, of which three ingredients have been deemed

Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene

Other SCCS Opinions on ingredients and

Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (S87) as a UV

substances, which will be finalised soon

filter in cosmetic products is safe up to a

and worth looking into are:

The following tentative safety assessments

maximum concentration of three percent.

• Dihydroxyacetone – DHA (1,3-Dihydroxy-2-

are in process:

Inhalation toxicity was not assessed in this opinion because no data was provided. As a result, this opinion is not applicable to any sprayable products that could lead to the exposure of consumers’ lungs by inhalation.

Are there any further scientific concerns of the SCCS with regard to the use of Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (S87) in cosmetic products? S87 is a secondary amine and

propanone) CAS No. 96-26-4 • the safety of aluminium in cosmetic products – Submission II • SCCS/1613/19 on 30 and 31 October 2019, which is open for comment until 17 February • Zinc Pyrithione (ZPT) submission III; SCCS/1614/19 on 13 December, which is open for comment until 24 February • Hair dye Indigofera tinctoria (C170) CAS

is prone to nitrosation and formation of

84775-63-3 submission III; SCCS/1615/20

nitrosamines. S87 should not be used in

on 10 January, which is open for

combination with nitrosating substances,

comment until 13 March.

The ingredient safety information was

Interesting info worth noting Following the Cosmetic Ingredient Review

adopted and updated accordingly into

(CIR) 153rd Expert Panel Meeting held

the European Commission database for

on 9 and 10 December, a post meeting

information on cosmetic substances and

announcement was published with

30

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

• honey, with seven ingredients being tested and found safe in a preliminary statement • palm (açaí and juçara), of which eight ingredients have been tested with a split conclusion (safe; or insufficient information for composition), so the assessment will continue • pomegranate, of which 18 ingredients were assessed with expert voting resulting in a split conclusion (safe; or insufficient for various endpoints) • soy, of which 28 ingredients were assessed with expert voting resulting in a split conclusion (safe; or insufficient for

and the nitrosamine content should always be < 50 ppb.

safe for use.

various endpoints) • vanilla, of which nine ingredients were tested with voting resulting in a split conclusion (safe; or insufficient for various endpoints). •

INSPECTION & DETECTION

A vision for quality and compliance

With the right inspection and detection equipment, manufacturers can minimise waste, increase productivity and ensure the quality of their finished products. Production Packaging Systems, a division of Mitas Corporation, can help pharma manufacturers ensure their products meet specifications, particularly in contamination detection and weight.

I

nspection is part of the overall drug quality assurance system. The objective of inspecting pharmaceutical manufacturing facilities is either to enforce

Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP)

The 08D3 compact is an extremely versatile and functional entry level checkweigher for small to medium sized products

compliance or to provide authorisation for the manufacture of specific pharmaceutical products, usually in relation to an application for marketing authorisation.

A further aspect of pharmaceutical

This equipment has an accuracy of about

inspection is monitoring the quality of

0.1g and a production rate of 500ppm. It

products in distribution channels, from

is made entirely of stainless steel and has

the point of manufacture to delivery to

an IP54 rating. It accurately checks small

the recipient, as a means of eliminating

format, high value products such as boxes,

the hazard posed by the infiltration of

flowpacks, bottles and tubes, detecting and

falsified medicines.

National as well as international legislation is forcing pharmaceutical manufacturers to implement complete traceability of their production within the entire value-added chain, by means of track and trace systems. These systems guarantee a high level of process and product safety – both fundamental features in the pharmaceutical industry.

Production Packaging Systems’ inspection equipment is specific to needs of the pharmaceutical industry and ensures the highest production quality.

Metal detection equipment Metal detectors from Production Packaging Systems check inside products for ferrous and non-ferrous metal as well as stainless steel contaminants. These detectors have an accuracy compliant with the global standards defined by the BRC. These metal detectors designed by Prisma Industriale assure the rejection of defective parts from the production line. The

The high sensitivity and advanced functions of self-check, phase adjustment and tracking unite the utmost reliability with a reduction in losses

auto rejecting a product if it’s under spec. pharmaceutical metal detector is able to scan 10 000 pieces per minute and can

X-ray inspection

detect any type of metal contaminant in

The future of the pharmaceutical product

tablets, including ferrous, non-ferrous and

inspection rests on X-ray equipment.

stainless steel to the size of 0.8mm.

With a single top level X-ray inspection

It then auto rejects the products

system, it is possible to inspect a series of

containing contaminants.

otherwise unidentifiable features such as non-ferrous and non-magnetic stainless

Checkweighing scales

steel metal contaminants, even within metal

The range of checkweighers from Production

film packages or those with aluminium foil.

Packaging Systems is both extensive and

It can also detect package defects like

highly configurable, ensuring customers can

deformations and cracks and completeness

find the most suitable solution for their type

and fill level, even in closed packages. •

of product and packaging.

There are four different models designed for the pharmaceutical industry. These range from being able to weigh small and medium sized cylindrical pharma packages

The MDF11 metal detector for pharmaceutical applications

to checkweighers for pharma products with a maximum capacity of 600g.

The 35D3 checkweigher for small to medium sized cylindrical packages is designed to run alongside the conveyor line without production interruption, which reduces installation costs

high sensitivity and advanced functions of self-check, phase adjustment and tracking unite the utmost reliability with a reduction in losses due to false rejects.

The pharma metal detector was specifically designed in line with industry requirements for small, high-flow loose pharmaceutical products like tablets and capsules. Equipped with regulators that make it highly adaptable, this

Production Packaging Systems – www.prodpackaging.com

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |

31

INSPECTION & DETECTION

How to address data security issues in manufacturing Omron and Cisco Systems have joined forces to address issues surrounding the increased security risks of IIoT, to ensure IoT as well as IIoT can continue to develop safely and securely in the future. This will help progressive manufacturers streamline their processes and make new advances.

O

ver the past few years, IoT

manufacturing industry are much higher

has spread like wildfire and

than in other sectors. The

shows little sign of slowing

more serious threats are

down. Indeed, according to

evidenced by recent

Cisco, the number of connected devices

cases of disrupted

is expected to exceed 50 billion by next

production due

year. These range from everyday items

to ransomware

such as controllable lighting and heating

and other

in the home through to machine-to-

malware attacks.

machine (M2M) communications in the factory.

This rapid increase in the number

Customers and the market in general are demanding

method of authentication for potential users of IoT.

DID YOU KNOW?

Some of the encryption methods used can also be fairly weak and

ineffective against Before joining forces with Cisco, potential hackers. IoT Omron had already developed the Machine Automation Controller security – particularly NJ Series. This is its flagship authentication and machine controller, which comes standard with the OPC UA encryption – is an server and complies with the area that leading security enabled global communications standard. manufacturers are

of also devices or end points for the

higher levels of

Industrial Internet of Things (IIoT) presents

quality and safety with

a correspondingly higher security risk –

increasingly stringent regulations

especially in relation to the data that’s

pharmaceutical products, as well as

Authentication, access control and a

being collected and exchanged

better traceability that will ensure the

lack of basic cyber security measures

quality of individual products. As a

are all key issues relating to the devices

if increased data security can be

result, manufacturers face significant

employed in an IIoT set-up. Devices with

achieved, ‘it’s likely adoption will

challenges in continuing to improve the

weak security pose implications for the

continue at an exponential rate as

technologies they use while keeping up

systems to which they are connected

greater consolidation drives developers

with consumer and market demands.

and indeed the entire infrastructure.

applications unlock multi-purpose

Key issues

and weak passwords are inadequate

robots, leading to far greater capability

There are three specific areas of

and can’t cope with the sheer number

and functionality’.

security risks associated with IIoT

of devices and the machine-to-machine

CMSWire recently reported that

to edge computing and connected

This collaboration will help manufactures to achieve safe and secure production within intelligent sites enhanced by the use of IIoT In reality, this is already beginning

addressing with urgency.

Device security

Traditional authentication methods

in manufacturing.

These include the people who

communications that occur within an IIoT operation – which in turn will typically

access equipment and data on site,

be part of a complex manufacturing

the devices connected to machinery

environment. The devices need to be

and production lines, and the data

able to authenticate each other so that

collected and exchanged. Each

data can be safely exchanged within the

poses a challenge in terms of effective

system. The IIoT platform also needs to

authentication procedures.

be able to provide strong authentication processes as well as device authorisation

to happen. Manufacturers around the

Personal security

world are striving to strengthen their

This is one of the first areas likely to

global competitiveness and corporate

come under attack by hackers who

another important step, especially for

value by enhancing their manufacturing

attempt to impersonate an authorised

those devices that could be particularly

capabilities through the use of IIoT. The

user so that they can access data or

vulnerable to attack. This can help

industry is also rising to the challenge

carry out a disruptive task. Although

managers isolate any devices involved

of making manufacturing sites more

everyone is familiar with the Internet and

in a breach until the issue is resolved.

intelligent through the active use of

personal authentication, usernames and

After the security of the devices has

digital technologies. Yet the risks in the

passwords aren’t always an effective

been assured, the next step is to ensure

32

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

and access control.

Developing a device inventory is

INSPECTION & DETECTION has been designed to deliver reliability under extreme conditions at manufacturing plants. This collaboration will help manufactures to achieve safe and secure production within intelligent sites enhanced by the use of IIoT. Omron and Cisco will jointly develop a secure environment in which machine controllers and PLCs, as core automation components, provide security authentication for the three discreet elements mentioned earlier: 1. people at manufacturing sites 2. devices connected to machinery and communication security between

data within it. So cyber security and

the devices, any apps and the cloud.

anti-hacking measures are not only

3. data exchanges.

This could typically include the use of

important but vital if manufacturers are

For user authentication, Omron’s

sophisticated encryption techniques.

to take advantage of the many benefits

controllers and PLCs will authenticate

of IIoT without opening themselves up to

user access and grant secure remote

potential disaster.

access (VPN) only to authorised users,

Data security At the heart of all these concerns is the

Data security starts with personal and

production lines

facilitating the safe monitoring of

need to maintain stringent data security

device security and might also involve

devices and machines at manufacturing

– including safeguarding its transmission,

further encryption techniques and the

sites. For device authentication,

storage, processing and ultimate

use of items such as data signatures.

the controllers and PLCs will detect

disposal. Any security must also comply

Network communications also need

device connections, block access

with a range of strict data protection

to be carefully monitored for signs of

from unauthorised devices and issue

regulations, including the General Data

any vulnerabilities or data breaches.

alerts in real time. Data authentication

Protection Regulation (GDPR).

This includes the need to identify any

on Omron’s devices will encrypt

affected devices, any services that might

communication data and ensure the

or thousands of interconnected

have been accessed, and any data that

data is transmitted appropriately.

devices that might be present within a

might have been compromised. Finally,

manufacturing site, the sheer quantity

manufacturers will need an effective

unauthorised access and security

of data collected and exchanged

strategy in place for rapidly resolving any

threats by monitoring and visualising

is almost impossible to monitor. For

issues that might arise.

details of data in the network. •

Quite apart from the hundreds

They will also detect and record any

instance, IBM believes as much as 2.5 quintillion bytes of data could be

Steps to address the issues

being generated each day.

Cisco’s leading networking and security

An experienced hacker can exploit

technology will be integrated into

a single weakness to gain access to

Omron’s machine and programmable

a company’s entire network – and the

logic controllers (PLCs). The latter

Cisco – www.cisco.com Omron South Africa – www.industrial.omron.co.za

Superior image sensing speed and precision FH Series

• High-precision object detection • Ultra-high-speed searching • Flexible functionalities to provide high compatibility with manufacturing machines

Would you like to know more? +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za fh_series_177x65_ad_enza_01.indd 1

11-06-18 09:42

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |

33

HAIR CARE

No itching or flaking – just a naturally healthy scalp An oily scalp that produces excessive sebum is more prone to dandruff. Seascalp biomarine ingredient from Lipotec Active Ingredients acts on the factors leading to dandruff, including sebum production, altered barrier function and immunoinflammatory response, to calm the scalp and prevent itching and flaking.

By Eulalia Peri, Juliana Gomiero, Elena Cañadas, Núria Almiñana and Raquel Delgado

D

andruff is a common condition

of the content of Seascalp biomarine

characterised by the presence

ingredient is of natural origin (according

Enhanced physical barrier function and antioxidant defence

of flakes on the scalp, which

to ISO 16128). Its efficacy has also been

Human keratinocytes were treated with

can be unpleasant and

demonstrated in vitro and in vivo.

10mg/mℓ Seascalp biomarine ingredient

sometimes even affects the self-esteem

for 24 hours. At the end of treatment,

of the person with this condition. As

In vitro efficacy

the expression of genes associated with

much as half of the world’s population

Lower sebaceous lipid accumulation

physical barrier function and antioxidant

will suffer from dandruff at some point.1 It

Human sebocytes were treated with

response was evaluated.

is not just aesthetically displeasing, but is

α-MSH (control) and with Seascalp

also associated with scalp discomforts,

biomarine ingredient (one and

to upregulate genes such as Glutathione

including itching and stinging.

10mg/mℓ). After four days of incubation,

Peroxidase 4 (GPX4), Glutamate-Cysteine

supernatants were removed and a

Ligase Catalytic subunit (GCLC) and

commonly found on the scalp.

mixture containing the reagent AdipoRed

Superoxide Dismutase 2 (SOD2), which

Sometimes it can grow out of control,

was added to each well. This reagent

are involved in promoting an antioxidant

especially on an oily scalp. When the

is a hydrophilic solution that becomes

response. It also upregulated genes

presence of sebum is high, the lipid

fluorescent in hydrophobic environments,

involved in promoting improved

dependent Malassezia feeds on these

facilitating the detection of the levels of

physical barrier function, such as Keratin

lipids and oxidises them. 2 Oxidised lipids

intracellular lipid droplets.

10 (KRT10), Ceramide Synthase 3 and

Malassezia is a genus of fungi

lead to a pro-inflammatory response that causes scalp irritation and itchiness, creating a dysfunction of the barrier function integrity. This proinflammatory response also increases the production

Seascalp biomarine ingredient showed

4 (CERS3 and CERS4), Occludin (OCLN) Figure 1: The presence of lipids i.e. red show lipids of the cellular membranes while green shows lipids within the cell. 1a: basal; 1b: 1mg/ mℓ Seascalp biomarine ingredient; 1c: 10mg/ mℓ Seascalp biomarine ingredient

and Claudin 5 (CLDN5).

Reduced inflammatory response Human sebocytes and keratinocytes

of lipids by the sebaceous glands, which

were treated with 10mg/mℓ Seascalp

further favours the proliferation of the

biomarine ingredient for 24 hours. Using

fungus as there is more sebum on which

a microarray analysis, the expression

it feeds.3 It is a vicious cycle. Malassezia also increases reactive oxygen species

of genes associated with inflammatory

1a

(ROS) producing oxidative stress, which

response was assessed.

In keratinocytes, Seascalp biomarine

may additionally compromise the

ingredient showed downregulation in

scalp barrier function. 4 The end result

Interleukin 1 alpha (IL1-α), Interleukin

is the appearance of unwanted flakes

6 (IL-6), Interleukin 8 (IL-8) and Tumor

commonly associated with dandruff.

1b

Necrosis Factor (TNF) genes, all of which are involved in the inflammation process.

Restore scalp vitality

In sebocytes, it downregulated Tumor

The recently developed Seascalp

Necrosis Factor (TNF) and Interleukin

biomarine ingredient (INCI name: Water

8 (IL-8) genes.

(Aqua), Pseudoalteromonas Ferment

In vivo efficacy

Extract, Sodium Salicylate) is a fermentbased extract obtained from a marine

1c

microorganism. It is intended to reduce

A group of volunteers from China applied

sebum, itchiness and dandruff and to prevent their recurrence, resulting in a healthy looking scalp.

Available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, 99.5 percent

34

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

Minimise the presence of dandruff a serum containing three percent

Treatment with one or 10mg/mℓ of

Seascalp biomarine ingredient or a

Seascalp biomarine ingredient showed 32

placebo serum on their scalps once

and 35.2 percent reductions in sebaceous

every two days for 28 days. The group

lipids accumulation, respectively.

consisted of 63 men and women with

HAIR CARE Figure 2: Reduction of density of dandruff adherence (****p<0.0001 vs initial time and ****p<0.0001 vs placebo)

Figure 3: Flakes on a volunteer’s scalp, before and after product was applied

3a

3b

3c

3d

dandruff and aged between 18 and

40.5 percent in a statistically significant

naught and very serious itchiness

55 years old. At the end of the treatment,

manner. A visually clear reduction of

with five.

reductions in dandruff adherence,

flakes was observed after 28 days

sebum level and scalp itchiness

of treatment.

were evaluated.

The density of dandruff adherence on

Seascalp biomarine ingredient reduced scalp itchiness by 2.8 percent

The level of sebum on scalps was

while the placebo treatment increased

evaluated using a sebumeter. Treatment

scalp itchiness. The results demonstrate

the scalp was assessed by visual grading.

with Seascalp biomarine ingredient

Seascalp biomarine ingredient helps

An expert evaluated eight different areas

helped reduce sebum by 26.7 percent

enhance scalp comfort.

of the scalp, scoring them on a scale

in a statistically significant manner,

from naught (no flakes at all) to 10 (thick

while the placebo treatment barely had

Dandruff recurrence prevention

white to yellow flakes closely attached to

any effect.

A second clinical study was performed

the scalp).

Seascalp biomarine ingredient helped reduce the presence of dandruff by

Scalp itchiness was evaluated by the

on a group 20 male and female

volunteers on a scale of naught to five,

volunteers from Spain. The volunteers

where no itchiness corresponded with

had dandruff and were aged between

No itch. No flakes.

Just a healthy scalp and beautiful hair

Biotechnological ingredient that helps minimize the accumulation of sebaceous lipids and strengthen the skin barrier function

www.lipotec.com

All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation or its affiliates © 2019, 2020 The Lubrizol Corporation

Sin título-1 1

21/01/2020 14:59:06 P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 | 35

HAIR CARE Figure 4: Sebum reduction (***p<0.001 vs initial time and p<0.01 vs placebo)

Figure 6: Images of the scalp area of one volunteer. 6a-6c: general photography; 6d-6f: microphotography; 6g-6i. Corneofix technique

6a

6b

6c

6d

6e

6f

6g

6h

6i

Figure 5: Scalp itchiness measurement after 28 days

degree), and an average value

A proven solution

was obtained.

Seascalp biomarine ingredient helps to

After 28 days of treatment, the presence of dandruff was reduced by

less itchiness, flakes and greasiness,

40.8 percent in a statistically significant

while aiding in the daily management of

manner. The effect was sustained for

a dandruff-prone scalp.

two weeks after the last application of 18 and 70 years old. They applied a serum with three percent Seascalp biomarine

naturally support a healthy scalp with

The ingredient showed in vitro to

the product, which helped prevent the

reduce the accumulation of sebaceous

reappearance of dandruff.

lipids, to upregulate genes involved

Lipid peroxidation was evaluated

in the physical barrier function as well

ingredient on their scalps once a day for

through detection of malondialdehyde

as in the antioxidant defence and to

28 days. Dandruff and lipid peroxidation

(MDA), used as a lipid peroxidation

downregulate the expression of pro-

were evaluated at the end of the

marker. This test was based on the ability

inflammatory genes, all of which are

treatment and two weeks thereafter.

of chromogen thiobarbituric acid to

linked to dandruff.

The presence of dandruff was

react with malondialdehyde to produce

When tested in vivo on men and

evaluated using imaging technology.

a stable chromophore, which can easily

women of diverse ethnicities, Seascalp

First, general photography was taken

be quantified fluorometrically.

biomarine ingredient helped reduce

of the areas most affected by dandruff.

After 28 days of treatment, lipid

the density of dandruff adherence,

Then a micro-camera was used to obtain

peroxidation was reduced significantly

sebum levels and scalp itchiness. It

a more magnified image of one specific

by 38.4 percent. Two weeks after the

also prevented the reappearance

area of the scalps. Finally, the Corneofix

treatment, there was a further increase

of dandruff and lipid peroxidation

technique was used to evaluate the level

in the effect, reaching 100 percent

two weeks after treatment. •

of scalp desquamation.

reduction. This result shows that Seascalp

A specialised technician graded the

biomarine ingredient helps prevent the

REFERENCES:

dandruff levels in the images on a scale

reappearance of dandruff and protects

1. Turner G. A., Hoptroff M. and Harding C. R. Stratum Corneum

of naught (absence) to five (very high

the scalp.

dysfunction in dandruff. International Journal of Cosmetics Science. 34: 298-306, 2012.

2. Jourdain, R., Moga, A., Vingler, P., el Rawadi, C., Pouradier, F., Souverain, L., Bastien, P., Amalric, N. and Breton, L.

Figure 7: Dandruff reduction at 28 and 42 days (****p<0.0001 vs initial time)

Figure 8: Lipid peroxidation measurement at 28 and 42 days (***p<0.001 and ****p<0.0001 vs initial time)

Exploration of scalp surface lipids reveals squalene peroxide as a potential actor in dandruff condition. Archives of Dermatological Research. 308(3): 153-163, 2016.

3. Ro BI, Dawson TL. The role of sebaceous gland activity and scalp microfloral metabolism in the etiology of seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc.

10(3):194-7, 2015.

4. Schwartz, J., Henry, J., Kerr, K., Mizoguchi, H. and Li, L. The role of oxidative damage in poor scalp health: ramifications to causality and associated hair growth. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 37: 9-15, 2015.

Lubrizol Life Science – www.lubrizol.com/beauty Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

36

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

HAIR CARE

Formulate

on-trend hair care products Kao Europe, represented in South Africa by CIM Chemicals, reveals a range of novel solutions to meet modern hair care demands. These solutions have been developed in line with global market trends, such a customisation, an increased focus on scalp care, hair health and damage, sustainability and professional hair care.

C

onsumers’ demands have

but also about how the products are

production step, improves the formulation

evolved concurrently with

produced and packaged.

process and provides optimum properties

their awareness of health and wellness, professional care,

customisation based on their individual needs and environmental sustainability.

These new trends have sparked a need in the industry to create responsible products that are kinder on the environment, form part of a professional service experience, help to answer the individual demands of consumers and allow them care for the health of their hair and scalp.

Kao Europe provides solutions following these new hair care trends. Its

to the hair to keep it healthy.

Clean beauty is not just about the ingredients used in hair care products, but also about how the products are produced and packaged Solutions from Kao Europe, such as

Environmentally friendly yet effective These are some examples of the range of solutions and products that Kao has developed to respond to new market demands. The necessary customisation and individualisation to adapt to the needs of each person and each hair; the focus on scalp care, preventing problems such as irritation, excess fat or dryness; and the ability to give health to the hair,

solutions offer added benefits in finished

Akypo Foam LM 25, Kao Sofcare GP-1, and

nourishing, moisturising, repairing and

products, such as versatility, smoothness,

Danox HC-30 tick all the boxes when it

preventing hair fall, according to each

conditioning, biodegradability and

comes to meeting the demand for greener,

specific case. All this can be done by hair

outstanding results.

leaner and more eco-friendly products.

care brands and manufacturers with the

Akypo Foam LM 25 is an ultra-mild

maximum respect for the environment,

Cleaner ingredients and processes

cleansing agent that provides a high

through new formulations and responding

consistent, stable and creamy foam. Kao

to the supreme requirements of

Although sustainability has become a

Sofcare GP-1, a fortifying and repairing

professional care. •

hot topic across various industries, it’s

conditioning agent, maintains volume,

particularly important in personal care.

provides shine and improves hair

Today, clean beauty is not just about the

manageability. Danox HC-30, a two in

ingredients used in hair care products,

one conditioning agent developed in one

CIM Chemicals – www.cim.co.za Kao Europe – www.kaochemicals-eu.com

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |

37

HAIR CARE

The beauty of silicone microemulsions In South Africa, the concept of customised hair care products is gaining popularity as consumers tend to portray their individuality based on their hair type, style and texture. To meet these requirements, BRB Silicones strives to develop creative solutions. Specialty silicones can provide specific solutions based on individual needs.

W

hen silicones are added

These new microemulsions are easy

Multi-functional silicones

to leave-on or rinse-off

to incorporate into hair care products,

hair products, they impart

imparting a moisturised feel along with

BRB 5446 and BRB 5834 are low

a texture that makes hair

superior conditioning and excellent

viscosity silicone microemulsions which

feel moisturised. Hair moisturisation is

wet and dry combing properties. They

are easy to incorporate in hair care

defined by hair that is easy to comb

are ideal for use in clear, leave-in and

formulations. These liquid products are

when wet and dry, has a healthy looking

rinse-off products, especially for difficult

soluble in water, cold processable and can

shine and fibres that align more easily to

to manage hair types. Various tests were

be added into the formulation at the end

provide a sleek look.

conducted to assess the performance of

of process through gentle mixing. They

these microemulsions.

can be used in clear or opaque rinse-off

Although high molecular weight silicones are well known for hair conditioning and protecting benefits,

Combing force measurement

these silicones are difficult to formulate

Using a MTT175 tensile tester (Dia-Stron),

into hair care products due to their

BRB conducted studies during which

hydrophobic and high viscosity

combing force measurement was taken

properties. Yet when delivered as an

before and after the application of a

emulsion, small droplets of the high

shampoo and conditioner. The method is

molecular weight silicones can be added

available on request.

with ease into hair care formulations.

or leave-on hair care products.

The test was conducted on virgin

The development of thermodynamically

brown Caucasian hair tresses pre-

stable microemulsions is very beneficial

double bleached to ensure all chemical

to the formulator. The droplets are

substances were removed. Both

transparent and smaller than the

microemulsions reduced combing force

Figure 1:

wavelength of visible light. This makes

in wet and dry conditions up to eight

microemulsions more cost-effective and

percent compared to the control.

Results of the thermal protection with flat iron test. The control hair tress is pictured on the left while the right hair tress was treated with two percent silicone microemulsion

saves time during manufacturing.

Thermal protection

Innovative microemulsions

The frequent use of hair dryers,

BRB has developed a microemulsion

straightening and curling irons and

based on high molecular weight Silicone

any other styling tools can result in

Quaternium-17. It is processed by

thermal damage.

emulsifying Silicone Quaternium-17 with

These treatments are conducted

Trideceth-7 and Trideceth-5. The active

around 180 to 230°C, which damages

silicone content in the microemulsion is

the hair’s keratinous structure and leads

approximately 15 percent and it doesn’t

to dull, brittle, dry and fragile hair. due

contain polyether.

to Thanks to their film forming properties

A second microemulsion was

and low thermal conductivity, speciality

developed with the shine boosting

silicones can be used to protect hair from

silicone, Phenyl Trimethicone and a

thermal damage.

cationic polymer, Silicone Quaternium-17

For this test, virgin blonde Caucasian

together with an emulsifier of Laureth-4

hair tresses were pre-double bleached

Figure 2:

and Laureth-23. This microemulsion is not

and treated with a heat protecting spray

only polyether free, but also preservative

formulated with silicone microemulsion

free with an active silicone content of

BRB 5446. This was followed by 50 cycles

approximately 17 percent.

of flat ironing at 230°C. The results in

Results of the colour protection with silicone microemulsion. The tress on the far left is the untreated colour reference; second from the left is the untreated control; the third tress was treated with Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5; while the fourth tress was treated with non-silicone ingredients

38

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

HAIR CARE Table 1: Conditioner formulation for colour protection test

Phase

A

B

C

Ingredient

INCI

II (%)

III (%)

IV (%)

DI Water

Aqua

To 100

To 100

To 100

Glycerin

Glycerin

3.00

3.00

3.00

Tylose HS 100000

Hydroxyethylcellulose

1.00

1.00

1.00

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol

4.00

4.00

4.00

Tewax TC-65

Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate

1.00

1.00

1.00

-

6.67 (1.0% Si active)

-

BRB 5446

Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5

Polyquaternium- 11

Polyquaternium- 11

Euxyl PE 9010

Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

Citric Acid

Citric Acid

-

-

1.00

1.00

1.00

1.00

q.s

q.s

q.s

Figure 1 show less damage in the hair tresses treated with

available on request). Results indicate that hair tresses treated

BRB 5446 compared to the untreated hair tresses. Silicone

with a silicone microemulsion achieve higher gloss. •

Quaternium-17 in the microemulsion helps to protect from heat damage, preventing the cuticle from cracking.

REFERENCES:

Hair is easily detangled, feels healthier and less prone to

1. Silicone Emulsion A: Silicone Quaternium-17 (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Trideceth-5

breakage when combing.

2. Silicone Emulsion B: Phenyl Trimethicone (and) Laureth-4 (and) Silicone Quaternium-17 (and)

Colour protection

Laureth-23 3. Anthony J.O’Lenick Jr. Silicones for Personal Care 2nd Eddition 4. Prapaporn Boonme, Natthida Pakpayat, Kanokwan Yotmanee, Sarinnart Kunlawijitrungsee,

Permanent hair dyes, also referred to as oxidative dyes,

Duangkhae Maneenuan. Evaluation of Shampoos Containing Silicone Quaternary Microemulsion.

contain the alkalising agent hydrogen peroxide, which

Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science 01 (01); 2011: 59--63

swells the hair, enabling the dye precursors and a catalysing agent to reach the cortex.

BRB Silicones – www.brb-international.com/silicones

Studies show hair treated with red dye is particularly prone to fading after UV exposure and shampooing, so BRB performed the hair colour retention test on virgin blond Caucasian hair tresses dyed a commercial red shade. After dying, the tresses were cleansed with shampoo and a rinse off conditioner (see Table for the formulation).

The tresses were washed in 15 cycles. Observations occurred at an interval of five, 10 and 15 washes (see Figure 2). Hair tress I is an untreated swatch, directly after colouring. Hair tress II was treated 15 times with the control shampoo and conditioner. Hair tress III was treated 15 times with a shampoo and conditioner formulated with silicone microemulsion BRB 5446 and hair tress IV was treated 15 times with a silicone-free shampoo and conditioner. The results in Figure 2 show a clear improvement in hair tress III, substantiating that silicone microemulsions maintain colour vibrancy by forming a hydrophobic surface on hair.

Hair shine Physical measurement tests show phenyl groups attached to silicone increase shine on hair. In hair care, Phenyl Trimethicone is seen as the standard for delivering shine and is used as a reference for the validation of test methods and claim substantiation. Benefits of Phenyl Trimethicone include improved organic compatibility, shine and gloss, spreadability and reduced tackiness.

By adding Phenyl Trimethicone to silicone microemulsion BRB 5834, high shine benefits can be provided to treated hair. To substantiate this, tests were conducted on pre-double bleached virgin blonde Caucasian hair tresses. These tresses were treated with a whipped cream formulation containing BRB 5834 (formula

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |

39

HAIR CARE

Go green with waterless formulations

Water is set to be a precious commodity as consumption outstrips supply. The more consumers become aware of this, the more beauty brands will need to change how they manufacture and formulate products to limit their dependence on water.

A

growing number of brands

Waterless beauty is becoming

eliminate the water in the formula. They

within the world of beauty and

increasingly popular and it’s needed.

also to reduce the consumers’ water

personal care are committing

Waterless beauty products are those that

consumption by introducing a longer

to developing waterless

are free from water and instead formulated

period of time between shampooing.

products that boast innovative formulas

with botanical ingredients and oils, upping

and help to preserve a precious resource.

the potency and diminishing the need for

care products is Natrasorb Bath from

Waterless, powdered products are said to

preservatives and other unnecessary fillers.

Nouryon (see Table 1). This ingredient

be the future of hair care, considering that

An ideal ingredient for waterless hair

based on tapioca starch is able to absorb

a conventional liquid shampoo tends to be

Powdered hair care products

and carry large quantities of oils and

made up of about 80 percent water.

Anhydrous formulas also known as water

anhydrous liquids. It is processed in a

free. These can be oil-based formulas,

manner that creates unique ‘pockets’,

oils and serums, fats-based cosmetics,

which can carry the oils essentially in a

powdered products, dry products, or solid

solid, powder form. Natrasorb Bath starch

bars. They can have a positive

is hydrophilic – once the starch comes

Within the beauty industry, water is set to be a precious commodity as consumption outstrips supply In November, IMCD South Africa, in collaboration with Nouryon, hosted a hair

impact on water consumption

in contact with water, it immediately

Mintel recently reported that within

dissolves, releasing loaded oils,

the beauty industry, water is set to be a

fragrances and/or emulsifiers, dispersing

precious commodity as consumption

them into the warm water. The starch itself

outstrips supply. In the hair care category,

provides a soft feel but does not settle or

dry shampoos in a powder format

leave a film.

allow formulators to reduce the virtual water used to produce a product and

be formulated into a variety of textures,

care seminar centred on the Afro Ethnic

from powders and pastes to mousses

market and sustainability. One of the

and creams, depending on the oil load.

presentations focused on water use in hair

It has also been modified to obtain a

care formulations. It demonstrated how

larger particle size with a high porosity

brands can reduce their water usage in

which supports loading of high levels of oil

various ways, from the amount of water

fragrance. This perfume is then released

used during manufacturing to eliminating

either when a force is applied on the

water from a formulation and limiting water

starch or when Natrasorb Bath comes into

usage with finished products.

contact with water. •

Table 1: Scalp Soothing Anti-Flake Cream

Phase

Ingredient

INCI

NATRASORB BATH ® Tapioca Starch starch New Phase

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Salicylic Acid

% w/w 19% 78.90%

Salicylic Acid

2.00%

Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil

0.10% Total: 100%

In this natural clean label formulation, soothing Argan Oil is combined with the mild anti-septic properties of Tea Tree Oil and Salicylic Acid to gently eliminate a dry, flaky scalp. Nouryon’s Natrasorb Bath allows oils to be safely handled in the shower as a viscous cream and oils are delivered to the scalp either by gentle massage or when coming into contact with water. This releases a strong bloom of Tea Tree Oil perfume with a soft after-feel.

40

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

Originally developed for bath and shower products, Natrasorb Bath can

IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com

ASSOCIATION NEWS// NEWS

Industry managed waste management plan gets a ‘thumbs up’ DID Although the development of an IndWMP has been more than three years in the making, Minister Creecy announced in December the start of an entirely new process under Section 18. This is set to allow for an industry managed plan as opposed to a government managed one.

T

he plastics and packaging industries of South Africa,

YOU KNOW?

As a result of the consistent and concerted efforts of all the producer organisations, over the past 10 years South Africa has managed to grow its recycling figures annually to become one of the world leaders in mechanical recycling.

represented by Packaging SA and Plastics|SA, have welcomed the

announcement made by Barbara Creecy, minister of environment, forestry and fisheries (DEFF) to scrap the existing Section 28 plan for developing an Industry Waste Management Plan (IndWMP).

Admitting the announcement came as a surprise, Shabeer Jhetam, executive director of Packaging SA, said they welcomed the decision.

‘Despite the considerable amount of resources invested in preparing and submitting our federation of plans, we believe the minister has made the right decision.

Through our engagements,

producers of packaging

drawing board as soon as possible to

we’ve introduced the minister

materials are held responsible

develop a workable plan. Receiving the

to the excellent work of the

for managing their waste

support and buy-in of the industry are vital

various packaging streams

through belonging to industry

if this plan is to succeed,’ Ngcaba was

done through their producer

bodies that represent their

reported as saying.

responsibility organisations,

interests and drive their own

including Polyco, PETCO, the Glass Recycling Company,

Anton Ha nekom

MetPac-SA, the Polystyrene

recycling and collection

Considering all interests

efforts. We agree, the industry

A framework needs to be developed with

should be left in charge of its

clear targets for each sector, including

Association of South Africa, South

funds and projects, albeit with very close

quarterly and annual reporting, as

African Vinyls Association and the Paper

cooperation and direct accountability to

well as waste minimisation and the

Manufacturers Association of South Africa,’

government,’ he explains.

encouragement of recycling. The first

he explains.

of these engagements will take place

Clarity on the matter

in February and will require input on a

Working together to benefit all

DEFF director general, Nosipho Ngcaba

possible structure and future cooperation

‘We are sending less material to landfill

provided clarity at a recent meeting

between industry and government.

thanks to light-weighting and progress in

on why none of the submitted plans

developing a circular economy for each

were approved. She also reported that,

future of our environment or our industry,

industry. A government managed plan

according to treasury, there are no funds

yet we need a plan that uses collection

would have had the potential of nullifying

available for a government plan.

and recycling mechanisms already in

these achievements and making it more

‘A total of 13 industry plans were

‘We cannot afford to gamble with the

place and proven to be successful. I am

difficult for these organisations to access

submitted for consideration. The paper

confident this new approach will best serve

the funds needed to fulfil their mandates,’

and packaging industry submitted seven;

the interests of the environment, industry

Jhetam adds.

electrical and electronic submitted five

and our country. Members will be provided

and one was received from the lighting

regular updates on opportunities for job

Hanekom says the organisation is also

industry. Throughout the entire process,

creation by incorporating the informal

relieved by the Minister’s decision to

it became abundantly clear that none

sector, enabling access to better quality

develop a new plan under Section 18

of the plans would meet the criteria of a

and quantities of recyclable waste by

of the Waste Management Act, in close

government managed model, and that

introducing household separation at source

consultation with industry representatives.

a Section 28 plan was no longer the best

nationally, and contributing to economic

option. In order to expedite the process,

growth by unlocking new opportunities,’

the minister would like to return to the

Hanekom concludes. •

Plastics|SA’s executive director, Anton

‘We have always advocated for an industry managed plan where the

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2020 |

41

Tea time Sudoku

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42

| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review

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