HAIR CARE
Go green with waterless formulations
Water is set to be a precious commodity as consumption outstrips supply. The more consumers become aware of this, the more beauty brands will need to change how they manufacture and formulate products to limit their dependence on water.
A
growing number of brands
Waterless beauty is becoming
eliminate the water in the formula. They
within the world of beauty and
increasingly popular and it’s needed.
also to reduce the consumers’ water
personal care are committing
Waterless beauty products are those that
consumption by introducing a longer
to developing waterless
are free from water and instead formulated
period of time between shampooing.
products that boast innovative formulas
with botanical ingredients and oils, upping
and help to preserve a precious resource.
the potency and diminishing the need for
care products is Natrasorb Bath from
Waterless, powdered products are said to
preservatives and other unnecessary fillers.
Nouryon (see Table 1). This ingredient
be the future of hair care, considering that
An ideal ingredient for waterless hair
based on tapioca starch is able to absorb
a conventional liquid shampoo tends to be
Powdered hair care products
and carry large quantities of oils and
made up of about 80 percent water.
Anhydrous formulas also known as water
anhydrous liquids. It is processed in a
free. These can be oil-based formulas,
manner that creates unique ‘pockets’,
oils and serums, fats-based cosmetics,
which can carry the oils essentially in a
powdered products, dry products, or solid
solid, powder form. Natrasorb Bath starch
bars. They can have a positive
is hydrophilic – once the starch comes
Within the beauty industry, water is set to be a precious commodity as consumption outstrips supply In November, IMCD South Africa, in collaboration with Nouryon, hosted a hair
impact on water consumption
in contact with water, it immediately
Mintel recently reported that within
dissolves, releasing loaded oils,
the beauty industry, water is set to be a
fragrances and/or emulsifiers, dispersing
precious commodity as consumption
them into the warm water. The starch itself
outstrips supply. In the hair care category,
provides a soft feel but does not settle or
dry shampoos in a powder format
leave a film.
allow formulators to reduce the virtual water used to produce a product and
be formulated into a variety of textures,
care seminar centred on the Afro Ethnic
from powders and pastes to mousses
market and sustainability. One of the
and creams, depending on the oil load.
presentations focused on water use in hair
It has also been modified to obtain a
care formulations. It demonstrated how
larger particle size with a high porosity
brands can reduce their water usage in
which supports loading of high levels of oil
various ways, from the amount of water
fragrance. This perfume is then released
used during manufacturing to eliminating
either when a force is applied on the
water from a formulation and limiting water
starch or when Natrasorb Bath comes into
usage with finished products.
contact with water. •
Table 1: Scalp Soothing Anti-Flake Cream
Phase
Ingredient
INCI
NATRASORB BATH ® Tapioca Starch starch New Phase
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Salicylic Acid
% w/w 19% 78.90%
Salicylic Acid
2.00%
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
0.10% Total: 100%
In this natural clean label formulation, soothing Argan Oil is combined with the mild anti-septic properties of Tea Tree Oil and Salicylic Acid to gently eliminate a dry, flaky scalp. Nouryon’s Natrasorb Bath allows oils to be safely handled in the shower as a viscous cream and oils are delivered to the scalp either by gentle massage or when coming into contact with water. This releases a strong bloom of Tea Tree Oil perfume with a soft after-feel.
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| FEBRUARY 2020 | P C Review
Originally developed for bath and shower products, Natrasorb Bath can
IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com
