Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review February 2019

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

Reflections

creative cosmetics packaging brought to you by

February 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 1

www.pharmacos.co.za What’s on at

Propak Africa 2019!

INSIDE

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS: The future of natural beauty Serialisation solutions to protect your brand | The verdict is in on parabens

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

February 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 2

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

12

6 NEWS

Sustainable formulations from Covestro

Verify print quality on packaging with EyeC

Silab regenerates skin with Sensorialine

Machines on show at Propak Africa

10 PRODUCT NEWS

New products on the SA market

12 EVENTS

What’s hot at Propak Africa 2019!

40 INDUSTRY TALK

MG2 showcases capsule fillers

Nielsen reveals growth in private label sales

41 SUN CARE

18 PHARMA FOCUS:

REGULATIONS & LEGISLATION

A Thermal discusses how to manage pharma waste

20 INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING

New actuator and valve for aerosol sunscreens

CTFA highlights the importance of consumer safety

Formulate coral friendly products with Hallstar

44 PACKAGING INNOVATION

Print superior quality codes with Squid Ink

Fix-a-Form labels help brands comply with serialisation

& DESIGN

Serialise, print, check and commission with Strato

New solutions to strengthen your brand

Get ready for industry 4.0 with Omron

Linx delivers added value with new software

46 PRESERVATIVES

27 SPECIALTY INGREDIENTS

Marine actives for perfectly beautiful skin

Croda’s Steve Foots talks about open innovation

Vantage acquires surfactant producer, Leuna-Tenside

Rethink skin care product development with Sensient

Use Sucragel to naturally thicken oil Effective natural actives from Greentech

Natural antimicrobial protection

The verdict is in on parabens

Symrise launches SymOcide BHO

18

How to manage pharmaceutical waste

Farmers benefit from Moringa Cooperative project The many advantages of W/Si emulsifiers

39

The many advantages of W/Si emulsifiers P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

3

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM

Visibility you can see!

T

EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Contributors: Núria Almiñana, Robyn Brown, Elena Cañadas, Júlia Comas, Cristina Davi, Raquel Delgado, Martin McClintock, Jacques Strydom, Anina van der Walt

he price gap between genuine

waste. Medicines should be destroyed

Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti

and counterfeit goods is so vast it’s

and not landfilled or disposed of in sewers.

ADVERTISING

created a global market for knockoff

Turn to page 18 now to find out how to

products. While some consumers

properly destroy scheduled substances and

Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za

favour copies of luxury fashion items, fake

pharmaceutical waste.

Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za

pharma and personal care products can be

In the personal care industry, sales of

life threating. Fake or substandard medicines

speciality ingredients continue to make a

are the cause of thousands of deaths, many

substantial contribution to the bottom line of

of them African children, who, according

suppliers. This is because the strong focus on

to the World Health Organization, are given

commodities has shifted predominantly to

Sales Executive: Gayle Kihn +27 (0)82 457 0896 gayle.kihn@newmedia.co.za

ineffective treatments for pneumonia and

speciality ingredients over the past few years.

INTERNATIONAL SALES

malaria. While developing nations seem

By focusing on the hottest ingredients on

to suffer the most from this illicit trade, the

the market, local brands and manufacturers

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de

problem is global.

continue to align their product offerings

Experts say serialisation is one of the best

with global beauty trends. On page 27, our

tools available to the pharma industry to

bumper feature on speciality ingredients

combat counterfeits. Serialisation provides

rounds up the latest technologies, actives,

end to end supply chain visibility. It requires

extracts and emulsions for natural,

a comprehensive system to track and trace

sustainable, effective and safe beauty

the passage of a pharma product from the

care products.

manufacturer to the patient. Every serialised

Consumer and environmental safety

product is identifiable by a unique serial

comes under the spotlight in our sun care

number in addition to the origin, shelf life

feature on page 42. Brand owners and

and batch number of that product. Many

manufacturers should always act in the best

of the suppliers in South Africa which can

interests of consumers and the environment

help manufacturers implement a serialised

when producing sunscreens; claims need to

system are featured in this edition of

be validated and ingredients shouldn’t have

Pharmaceutical

a negative impact on marine ecosystems.

Cosmetic Review. Turn

to page 20 for a complete overview of the

Please remember to keep in touch with us.

Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za

Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmedia.co.za Production Controller: Pam Moodley Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

latest solutions available for serialisation,

you can connect with us on social media by

inspection, coding and marking – some

liking the @PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview

are internationally manufactured and

Facebook page or following @SApharmacos

Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.

distributed locally while others, like the

on twitter and @pharmacosreview on

MANAGING DIRECTOR

Strato SPCC Station are conceptualised and

Instagram. You can also send me an e-mail at

Aileen Lamb

produced in South Africa.

abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za.

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Bridget McCarney

Another interesting article for our readers from the pharma industry is the update on

Enjoy the read!

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR John Psillos

how to correctly manage pharmaceutical

NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

Consultant, drbaileys.com

Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

4

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

Now in Nigeria

Serving sub-Saharan Africa Regional marketing and technical resources to support personal care innovations in sub-Saharan Africa. BASF’s Care Creations™ is now closer than ever.

Meeting the needs of the personal care industry in Africa. www.carecreations.basf.com

NEWS

BASF co-founds global Alliance to End Plastic Waste IN JANUARY, A global alliance of nearly

has supported this movement from the

global challenge that calls for swift action

30 companies was founded to advance

beginning. ‘We are co-founding the AEPW

and strong leadership. This new alliance

solutions that reduce and eliminate

to drive and promote solutions that will

is the most comprehensive effort to date

plastic waste, especially in the marine

effectively help solve the world’s plastic

to end plastic waste in the environment,’

environments. The Alliance to End Plastic

waste problem. Plastics are efficient

comments David Taylor, CEO of Procter &

Waste (AEPW) has committed over US$1.0

materials. They can save resources and

Gamble and AEPW chairman.

billion with the goal of investing US$1.5

offer health, safety and convenience

billion over the next five years to help end

benefits. Yet the benefits could be

that includes companies from across

this global problem. New solutions will

contradicted if plastics and their by-

the global plastics and consumer goods

be developed and brought to scale to

products are neither used, disposed of nor

value chain, including chemical and

minimise and manage plastic waste. This

recycled in a responsible manner.’

plastic manufacturers, consumer goods

also includes the promotion of solutions

Understanding where the plastic waste

The alliance is a not-for-profit organisation

companies, retailers, converters and waste

for used plastics by helping enable a

originates is key. Ocean Conservancy

management companies. The alliance will

circular economy.

research shows plastics in the ocean

work with governments, intergovernmental

results from litter on land. Most of the

organisations, academia, NGOs and civil

plastic waste is spread through rivers and

society to invest in joint projects to eliminate

can be traced back to ten major rivers

plastic waste from the environment.

Everything from personal care product packaging and beverage cans to general plastic waste ends up in marine environments if not recycled or disposed of properly

‘We fully support the aim to reduce plastic waste in the environment,’ said Dr Martin Brudermüller, chairman of the

around the world, mainly in Africa and Asia.

The founding members of the AEPW

Many of these rivers flow through densely

include BASF, Berry Global, Braskem,

populated areas, which have a lack of

Chevron Phillips Chemical Company,

adequate waste collection and recycling

Clariant, Covestro, CP Group, Dow, DSM,

infrastructure, leading to significant

ExxonMobil, Formosa Plastics Corporation

waste leakage. The AEPW will initiate

USA, Henkel, LyondellBasell, Mitsubishi

actions where they are most needed. This

Chemical Holdings, Mitsui Chemicals,

will include projects that contribute to

NOVA Chemicals, OxyChem, PolyOne,

solutions in four key areas: infrastructure

Procter & Gamble, Reliance Industries,

development; innovation; education and

SABIC, Sasol, Shell, Suez, SCG Chemicals,

engagement; and clean-up.

Sumitomo Chemical, Total, Veolia, and

‘Everyone agrees plastic waste does not

Versalis. Visit www.endplasticwaste.org for

board of executive directors and chief

belong in our oceans or anywhere in the

more information on how to join

technology officer of BASF SE, which

environment. This is a complex and serious

the alliance.

SUSTAINABLE FORMULATIONS FROM COVESTRO AT COSMETAGORA IN Paris, France on 15 and 16 January, Covestro presented its new Baycusan eco series of biobased polyurethane film formers. The first product in the series, Baycusan eco E 1000, consists of almost 60 percent renewable raw materials and may be labelled as an ingredient of natural origin, according to ISO Standard 16128, Part 1.

The use of green raw materials in hair styling and hair care products is often connected with visible and tangible disadvantages, such as residue on hair or flaking as well as insufficient humidity resistance and wash-ability. Unlike natural film formers, Baycusan eco E 1000 does not leave any residue or sticky feel on the hair. To showcase its good hairstyling properties in an application, Covestro developed a hair gel with the biobased film former which is freem from synthetic fixing additives and formulated with natural or naturally derived ingredients.

The company also presented the biodegradable properties of the synthetic polyurethane dispersions in the Baycusan classic range and it showcased a skin and ocean sun protect lotion based on synthetic Baycusan C 1004. The ingredients in the lotion were carefully selected for their environmental profile.

When formulating the sun care product, the main objective was to minimise the impact on the marine ecosystem while offering high protection.

Savannah Fine Chemicals is the South African agent for Covestro.

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NEWS

A PROVEN INSPECTION SOLUTION FOR PHARMA PACKAGING EYEC SYSTEMS PROVIDE pharma companies and print suppliers with an efficient and dependable solution to verify the print quality of folding boxes, labels, patient information leaflets and flexible packaging. The systems perform a comprehensive and documented quality check of PDF files and printed samples — including the inspection of text, graphics, Braille, 1D and 2D codes — against the approved artwork.

A proven solution in the global pharma industry, EyeC software is produced in conformance to applicable ISO 9001, GMP and GAMP 5. It also contains all functions necessary for validation in line with the guidelines laid out in US FDA Title 21 CFR Part 11 and meets the newest requirements

of the industry for data integrity, data security, audit trail and audit trail review.

‘We were pleased to present our latest solutions for the pharma industry at Pharmapack in Paris,’ says Dr Ansgar Kaupp, CEO of EyeC. ‘As a long term partner to the global industry, we are conscious of the importance of compliance, process security and validation. Our team was happy to show visitors how we can support them in those areas.’

EyeC operates around the globe with strategic partners in certain regions. Sales enquiries from South African pharma manufacturers are handled by the company’s headquarters in Germany, Austria and Switzerland.

Merck awarded for engaging social media content BIOINFORMATICS LLC HAS recognised Merck with a 2018 Life Science Industry Award for best use of social media. ‘This recognition reflects the opinions of our scientific customers and industry peers,’ says Renee Connolly, head of communications and corporate responsibility, life science, at Merck.

‘Congratulations to our global life science communications and digital marketing teams for creating and executing a top-notch social and digital strategy, which engages our customers with content that educates and inspires them to solve their toughest problems.’

Merck was selected for the award through a survey of more than 2 000 global scientists, who are engaged in all major life science facets of basic and pre-clinical research as well as pharma R&D. Recipients of the Life Science Industry Awards are determined not only by the number of votes received, but also on the satisfaction and loyalty of their customers. The Life Science business of Merck engages stakeholders across numerous social media channels, including LinkedIn, Twitter, Facebook and Instagram.

In addition, the company’s employee advocacy programme, which encourages employees to share their industry expertise

EyeC’s Proofiler 600 DT inspection system offers fast and precise print sample testing of pharmaceutical packaging

on social media, has proven successful in raising the global visibility of Merck as a leader in life science.

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analytica Lab Africa 2019 Next-level lab technologies

Messe Muenchen brings the internationally renowned analytica cluster to South Africa in 2019, with the acquisition of Lab Africa, the only laboratory and analytics trade fair in South Africa. analytica is the world’s largest trade fair network for the lab and analysis industry.

Hot Topics: Food and Water Analysis

03

B2

AL2

July 9-11, 2019 Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg Presented by Messe Muenchen South Africa info@mm-sa.com

In proud co-location with:

food & drink technology Africa 2019

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

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NEWS

A sensory awakening for regenerated skin STIMULATED BY BEAUTY rituals, the senses can also be awakened in the skin through unprecedented biological activity. Recent studies have shown the expression of epidermal receptors of smell and taste favours cutaneous regeneration, including cell proliferation, migration and differentiation.

Using in vitro models, Silab studied the impact of ageing on the expression and functioning of these receptors. The French company showed the regulation of the receptors is disrupted in the course of ageing. By reconnecting aged skin with its senses, Sensorialine favours epidermal regeneration. In this context, Silab presents Sensorialine, a natural active ingredient with multi-sensory benefits, activating the epidermal olfactory and taste receptors in favour of epidermal renewal.

Based on a metabolomic study and molecular modelling carried out in its laboratories, the company established the structure/function relationship between the glycolipids active molecules of Sensorialine and the epidermal taste and olfactory receptors.

After 14 days of twice daily treatment and compared to the placebo, Sensorialine tested at 2.5 percent significantly reduced transepidermal water loss in Caucasian and Asian volunteers’ skin. In addition, results of the consumer panel test highlighted the moisturising effect of the active.

To investigate the sensory concept, Silab selected coconut because of its unique fragrance.

Beyond its demonstrated efficacy, the company utilised coconut flour obtained from cold-pressing the white flesh, underlining its ongoing commitment to sustainability. To source coconut flour, Silab looked to Sri Lanka for select certified organic chains and certified GMP production sites that produce a traceable, secure and high quality raw material.

A patented active ingredient (INCI: Water and Butylene glycol and Cocos nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract), Sensorialine is available in South Africa, in an aqueous solution from Meganede.

TRACK AND TRACE OF PHARMA AND FMCG GOODS COUNTERFEIT PHARMACEUTICALS AND FMCG products are a major concern for manufacturers, brand owners and consumers. As a result, companies are continually looking for ways to improve checks and security measures to curb the ever-increasing problem of counterfeit products finding their way into the market.

Legitimate manufacturers are required to put strategies

Iberchem appoints Beverley Gardner as head of sales in SA

in place to stop fake and counterfeit goods from

IN LINE WITH its 2020 expansion plan, fragrance manufacturer Iberchem is expanding its footprint in emerging markets, including Africa. The company was founded in 1985 in Murcia, Spain, and specialises in the creation of fragrances for fine fragrances, personal care, home care and fabric care.

The prominence of raw materials in the region helped the company to develop a portfolio of beautiful, captivating fragrances and a business model based on excellence in production and profound respect for the natural world.

Iberchem now counts on 20 facilities, including eight production plants, strategically located across the world, as well as a commercial presence in over 120 countries. Understanding the added advantage and flexibility of having a local team, Iberchem recently appointed Beverley Gardner as head of sales for its new office in South Africa. Supported by the marketing, technical and scientific resources and capabilities of the company, Gardner will establish Iberchem’s sub-Saharan operations with a team of select individuals with extensive experience in the personal care and fragrances industries.

Before joining Iberchem, Gardner was employed at Symrise South Africa where she worked in various roles such as managing sales for sub-Saharan Africa for the cosmetics, fragrance and aroma-molecules divisions. ‘I am passionate about all things African,’ says Gardner. ‘I tirelessly recount anecdotes from all of my trips across Africa and am always energised by dealing with people of all African cultures. I strive to accurately connect consumers’ actual needs with what Iberchem can offer in terms of tailor made solutions.’ Gardner’s zealous curiosity of people and places has enabled her to forge unique connections throughout Africa. This, coupled with Iberchem’s well established success of sales in emerging markets, will immensely enhance the multinational’s footprint in Africa.

In 2017, the company opened a new office in Ghana and acquired the South African company, Versachem. The acquisition is an exciting Beverley Gardner of venture that now allows Iberchem access to key customers and brands Iberchem across the continent.

South Africa

TracePack is well positioned to help manufacturers in the

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| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

destroying their brand reputation and strength. Since an effective strategy to fight this crime includes item level identification, authentication and track and trace, fight against counterfeit products.

Tracepack can assist legitimate manufacturers by providing the following: • consulting on anti-counterfeit solutions and comprehensive brand protection strategies • marking technologies for item level identification • secure and patented 2D codes that cannot be recreated by counterfeiters • a track and trace platform that tracks a product from the manufacturer to consumer, and detects round tripping and diversions • a solution to ringfence products supplied • authentication and security printing solutions.

The company’s brand protection and authentication products and solutions include: • highly secure Pelta 2D codes for authentication and verification • holograms • UV, IR and DNA inks • security printing solutions • track and trace software platform • PolyTrust Edible and UV invisible inks • marking hardware.

2019

March

DIARY

ood f

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

RE V IE W

WHAT'S ON IN

SOUTH AFRICAN

Cosmetics Safety & Compliance Conference 6 to 7 March NWU Conference Centre, Potchefstroom www.nwu.ac.za

Propak Africa 2019

2019 SUBSCRIPTION FORM

12 to 15 March Expo Centre Nasrec, Johannesburg www.propakafrica.co.za

SAAFFI Annual Seminar & Workshop 14 March Bytes Conference Centre, Midrand www.saaffi.co.za

CosmoPack + Cosmo Perfumery & Cosmetics 14 to 17 March Bologna, Italy Fair District www.cosmoprof.com/cosmopack

Please complete in block letters, select your subscription option, and return this form, along with your payment to: NEW MEDIA PUBLISHING (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel +27 21 701 1566. Fax 086 529 6468.

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in-cosmetics Global

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2 to 4 April Porte de Versailles, Paris, France www.in-cosmetics.com/global

Beauty World Middle East 15 to 17 April Dubai, UAE www.beautyworldme.com

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STREET

1

1 Perk up dull skin Celltone’s new brightening range is a safe and effective skin care system to even tone and brighten the skin. The three step system includes a 150ml face wash, 50ml SPF50 day cream that protects skin and promotes a brighter complexion while preventing sun induced pigmentation and a 50ml night cream, which works while you sleep to brighten skin and illuminate the complexion. The range is

2

formulated with liquorice extract, the well-known and safe skin brighter – niacinamide – as well as vitamin c and arbutin.

2 Natural chest rub Formulated with eucalyptus and lavender, Pure Beginnings 100 percent natural chest rub is the perfect addition to your medicine cabinet. Free from petroleum and menthol, the chest rub is safe to use on babies as young as three months old. According to Pure Beginnings, 100 percent of the ingredients are of natural origin. The rub also incorporates the healing properties of eucalyptus, tea tree, lavender and frankincense, gently and effectively easing congestion.

3 Get the new look The new look Duel by Lion Shaving products are for men who know what they

3

want. This heritage South African male grooming brand has been revamped.

The Lion Shave Duel Shaving Gel, Lion Shave Duel Shaving Foam, Lion Shave Duel Disposable Razors and Lion Shave Disposable Razors boast brand new packaging, clean lines and fresh colours, developed by a local design team.

Duel by Lion Shaving products are available nationwide at all major retailers.

4 Let’s twist again!

Originally launched in 2014, Sisley’s best-selling jumbo pencils offer superbly comfortable skincare with sensory formulas and vibrant, highly pigmented colours in an easy to use travel size. The successful products are now being unveiled in new and original shades for the lips, eyes and cheeks. The jumbo twist pencils combine shadow and light to give a dramatic complexion.

Passion and contour are the two new shades that complete the existing range. Contour is a bronzer with subtle gold touches used to contour and redefine the facial features. Sisley Paris products are sold in Edgars Beauty outlets, nationwide.

5 Medical skin care Born out of years of genetic, chemical and dermatological research, optiphi brings you Delta, a medical skincare system to redefine how practitioners diagnose and treat the skin. The range was developed as a collaborative project between plastic surgeons, aesthetic practitioners, chemists, geneticists and biomedical engineers. The extensive range of products are exclusively available to plastic surgeons, dermatologists and aesthetic practitioners.

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5

4

Launched a new product in 2018/19

Make a

Statement about it

2019

New Product Competition ENTRIES NOW OPEN C o n t a c t A b b y V o r s t e r : A b b y . V o r s t e r @ n e w m e d i a . c o . z a | + 2 7 ( 0 )11 8 7 7 6 2 8 1

Highlights, new show features and more reasons to attend

Propak Africa is a renowned local and international brand. The industries it represents have come to count on the exhibition to showcase their latest innovations and technologies, sustainable packaging initiatives and the most cutting-edge machinery and equipment.

A

frica’s ultimate packaging,

overview of the South African packaging

These are designed for the two-fold

labelling, plastics, printing

market, barriers to recycling plastics

purpose of guaranteeing product quality

and food processing

waste, the new dimension in digital

and boosting efficiencies and profits.

exhibition takes place the

printing, and packaging design versus

The company will also showcase the

Expo Centre in Nasrec, Johannesburg,

product information are some of the

extreme efficiency of the Concept Stream

from 12 to 15 March. Leading players in

seminar topics available to visitors.

S from Robatech’s proven Concept Line.

the packaging and related industries

The new themed days will see day

look forward to engaging with visitors

one focusing on new products; two will

and sharing information on their

centre on sustainability; three will put the

This small-volume melter is designed for processing on demand.

offerings. Many new

spotlight on skills development;

Didget (Hall 6/G14)

products and services will

and day four will be a ‘local

Exhibiting alongside TremPak, Didget

be launched at the show,

is lekker’ day where the South

is a pioneer in digitally printed flexible

with machinery on display

African Propak Africa brand

packaging. The company will be

for the first time in

and local manufacturers and

demonstrating a wide variety of end-

South Africa.

products will be celebrated.

use applications, designs, flexible

‘Propak Africa is

substrates and colour explosion. Didget’s

WHAT’S HOT FROM EXHIBITORS

the place to be to see the future of all things packaging,’ says Sven Smit, portfolio director at Specialised Exhibitions

passionate team will be on-hand to take your brand to new heights and rock the socks off your customers. With

Sven Sm it

Robatech (Hall 6/F33)

its investment in a wide web HP20 000

Your partner for innovative

digital press, the company has expended

Montgomery. ‘Effective, striking and

and sustainable adhesive application

into full production runs for customers,

sustainable packaging has never been

solutions worldwide, Robatech offers a

with enormous capabilities to make first

more important, and all the latest

wide range of powerful and innovative

class packaging possible for even the

innovations will be on show across

solutions for every gluing process. Its

smallest customer.

Propak Africa and co-located shows

solutions meet the high demands of

FoodPro, Pro-Plas Expo, Print Expo and

the packaging industry with respect to

Pro-Label Africa. Our aim is to showcase

production speed, flexibility, efficiency

the latest developments across the

and quality assurance. As the official

full industry life cycle – from the raw

distributor of W.H. Leary in South Africa,

materials and packaging, storage and

Robatech will highlight the latest gluing

transport to recycling and

and quality assurance technology

waste management.’

solutions offered by W.H. Leary’s Array glue application and

New initiatives For the first time ever, Propak Africa will offer daily, free to attend seminars. These will be presented by expert speakers with content aligned to the show’s ‘four days, four themes’ topics. The themed days are part of the new initiatives launched by the organiser, Specialised Exhibitions Montgomery. Another new initiative is the Seminar Theatre, taking place in Hall 7.

Packaging for the future, packaging 4.0, top consumer trends, Africa insights, an

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| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

detection controllers.

The Concept Stream S by Robatech

Free wi-fi

Charging stations and free wi-fi will be provided in the wi-fi café in halls five and seven

Future innovation

The Institute of Packaging SA’s Student Goldpack award-winning packaging designs will be on display for the duration of the expo

Get connected

Download the new Propak Africa App to keep updated on show happenings and announcements prior to and during the show

Tracepack and PPS (Hall 6/E31)

and safety sensors for all automated

While the company’s demos at Propak

environments. It provides training and

Bonfiglioli Engineering (Hall 6/H06d)

Africa are relevant to the food industry,

product support and gives advice on

Featured on the Italian Pavilion,

it also offers a variety of solutions for the

safety risk assessments at customers’

Bonfiglioli Engineering is a world leader

pharma industry. Tracepack ensures

factories. Prime Automation is also

compliance with good manufacturing

the agent for IDE Enclosures

practices and to track and trace

and Escha. The company

products through the supply chain.

will showcase its safety

For manufacturers of prescription

sensors and control

include pharma, metal

and OTC pharmaceuticals, stringent

equipment in the Pilz

can and aerosol, food

track and trace requirements call

range, as well as a

and beverage and

for innovative packaging, coding,

number of options

plastics. Inspection

marking and handling technologies,

in the Escha range of

including printing of bar codes, lot

connectors

numbers, batch codes, item numbers,

and cables.

and time and date stamps. TracePack

in manufacturing inspection SAIL by Bonfiglioli Engineering

equipment – laboratories and in line – for all packaging requirements. These

is quick, reliable and repeatable, and gives consistent results for comprehensive batch control.

can provide turnkey solutions for these

Pyrotec Packmark (Hall 6/E18)

Its new Smart Automated Inspection

manufacturers.

Among an impressive line-up of

Laboratory (SAIL) will be showcased at

equipment being demonstrated,

Propak Africa. SAIL is suitable for different

Karlville (Hall 6/J10-K9)

Pyrotec PackMark is showcasing its

container types, sizes and contents,

Besides its standard dry and steam

ultra-portable Anser U2 mobile hand-

bringing together CCIT, AVI and HGA all

shrink technologies, Karlville also offers

held printer and the 9405 Continuous

in one machine, for in-process, clinical

the patented Tornado system, which

Inkjet (CIJ) coder from Markem-Imaje.

trials and laboratory use.

is the premier shrink sleeve system for

The ultra-portable Anser U2 mobile

complicated dry shrinks. The company

hand-held unit is versatile, lightweight

Hubergroup (Hall 7/D09)

is said to have the fastest lines in the

and adept at handling even the

Packaging is continuously evolving

world, running a full body sleeve at

trickiest print surfaces. It can be carried

to fulfil new demands in terms of

up to 800 sleeves per minute, with

anywhere and prints at any angle on

productivity, safety and aesthetics.

tamper evident running at up to 1 000

a variety of substrates and products.

Safety in terms of health and

sleeves per minute. Its pouch filling

Visitors to Pyrotec PackMedia’s stand

environment needs special attention

technologies involve taking a premade

will also witness a South African first

as more and more stringent regulatory

pouch, inserting a spout and filling and

as the company plans to unveil a

requirements are enforced, particularly

capping the finished product. Its handle

ground-breaking new machine at

for pharma and food packaging.

application systems are seen on water

Propak Africa.

An integral part of packaging, inks

packs in South Africa and around the world, while its multipak solutions are used by FMCG companies worldwide.

and coatings need to be formulated The Anser U2 hand held coder from Pyrotec PackMark

carefully to meet all the regulatory requirements. Hubergroup’s new packaging printing inks and coatings

Prime Automation (Hall 6/E30)

are developed specifically for

With customers in the cosmetics and

compliance – visitors can find out more

toiletries, medical and pharmaceutical

the company’s offerings at the show.

manufacturing industries, in addition to many other industries, Prime

Afritrade (Hall 5/D31)

Automation is the official sales partner

Although the company is involved in

for Pilz in South Africa. The company

the handling of powders, granules

specialises in safety control systems

and liquids in for the pharmaceutical,

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

13

Our aim is to showcase the latest developments across the full industry life cycle

CONFERENCES

Morgancoat (Hall 7/B5)

Top industry speakers are scheduled to present

developments to share with the

The company has some significant

at several conferences taking place alongside

South African market, which include

Propak Africa. These include:

improved capacity and quality,

• the IPSA Think Tank

new state of the art equipment and

• Printing SA and South African Institute of

an increased product portfolio.

Printing (SAIP) Conference • South Africa Plastics Recycling Organisation (SAPRO) Indaba • the Packaging Innovation & Sustainability Conference.

Morgancoat will have European technical and sales experts on its stand, showcasing its brand new range of shrink-sleeve material to the local market. Its technology partner out of Europe will be on hand to showcase

food, chemical and plastics industries, Afritrade Machinery Importers’

hospitals and pharmacies with

a wide range of niche speciality label

Propak Africa showcase will include

comprehensive solutions to help them

stock materials.

live demonstrations of some of

improve their business processes and

the best stretch film and recycling

overcome key challenges.

machinery available in South Africa.

Rotocon (Hall 7/B10,13,14) With three stands at Propak Africa, Rotocon will share leading solutions

representatives from each of the

Automation Techniques (Hall 6/A8)

machinery manufacturers it represents,

Visitors will get to see the latest

spotlight on its Ecoline brand of finishing

to liaise with customers on their

technology in inspection and packaging

machines. Ecoline provides a full suite

technology requirements. XHD (China)

machinery for the pharma, food and

of cost-efficient standard features and

will be demonstrating its automatic

beverage industries at Automation

is cleverly designed for inspection and

high speed, three layer, co-extrusion

Technique’s stand. The company will

slitting of printed labels. Four Ecoline

stretch film machine to promote its

showcase the latest innovations in X-ray

machines will be demonstrated: the RDF

strong combination of technology and

technology and coding and marking

330 for digital label finishing; RSI 330

manufacturing. Syncro SR (Italy) and

printers for the FMCG and packaging

slitter, rewinder and inspection machine;

Syncro Plasmac SRL (UK) will present

industries. Automation Techniques

RDS 330 for die-cutting and inspection;

their range of blenders and recycling

is also excited to demo its new anti-

and the RSI 420 with E+L’s Smartscan

machines that offer accuracy, quality

counterfeiting Strato SPCC machine,

inspection system. The Screen Truepress

and simplicity with cutting edge

which offers a locally developed,

Jet L350UV+ series UV inkjet press – the

technology and design.

complete track and trace serialisation

most flexible and automated label

solution for the pharma industry.

production system in its class – will also

The Afritrade team will be joined by

OKI (Hall 7/A8)

in label printing and finishing, with a

be demonstrated by the company. •

A new Pro1050 label printer will be launched by OKI at the show. This five

For more information and online visitor

colour narrow format label printer

registration, visit www.propakafrica.co.za.

can print on a wide range of labelling material, in high quality colour.

For OKI the business of delivering healthcare is becoming increasingly complex. Providers are being asked

The Ecoline RSI from Rotocon

to deliver quality care, ensure patient safety and improve operations in an environment where costs are soaring and reimbursements are dwindling. OKI and its technology partners provide healthcare organisations, laboratories,

The new Strato SPCC machine

Detection Techniques (Hall 6/A5) A sister company to Automation

The Pro1050 label printer from OKI

Techniques, Detection Techniques will demo the latest advances in inspection systems, such as metal detection and check-weighing systems, and its complete range of products in colour, print and camera inspection.

The company is the exclusive distributor for Loma Systems in South Africa.

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| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

MG2 returns to Propak Africa

A leading global manufacturer of end of line capsule fillers and packaging machines, MG2 Technological Innovation, will be exhibiting at Propak Africa, on the Italian Pavilion. Propak Africa takes place scheduled 12t to 15 March at Nasrec expo centre in Johannesburg

P

romoted by UCIMA, the

explore new fields of activity, expanding

Italian Packaging Machinery

from pharma to the personal care,

Manufacturers’ Association, and

cosmetics and food industries.

the Italian Trade Agency, the

PACKAGING MACHINES FROM MG2

MG2 now has competencies and

pavilion will to present the best of the Italian

know-how in designing pouch machines,

technology and innovation for pharma and

cartoners, tray formers, case packers and

cosmetics manufacturing and packing

palletisers. Thanks to the acquisition, MG2

in emerging markets. MG2 Technological

now offers a complete solution for primary

Innovation will be located at stand H06-H

and secondary packaging.

• blistering machines • cartoners • forming and filling machines for boxes and trays • vertical and horizontal case-packers • palletisers

in Hall 6.

A flair for machinery innovation

In 1997, after 30 years of activity focused on capsule

• serialisation systems for bundles, bottles and cartons.

UCIMA is the national trade association

filling, MG2 diversify into

that represents and supports Italian

packaging, increasing

packing and packaging machinery

from pharmaceuticals, chemicals,

its product range

manufacturers. It has more than 130

petrochemicals, cosmetics and end-of-line

through acquisition.

member companies from all over the

technologies to the food, confectionery and

country, including industry leaders like

tobacco industries. •

The result was the launch of MG2’s packaging division, which allows the company to create new projects and

The MG2 capsule filler model, Planeta

MG2 Technological Innovation.

UCIMA member companies cover the entire range of packaging machinery production,

MG2 Technological Innovation – www.mg2.it

MG2. Capsule fillers & packaging technology.

A story of innovation. Since 1966.

PROCESSING

PACKAGING

www.mg2.it

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

15

COMPANY FOCUS

Engage the senses with

creative packaging

There is a new manufacturer of rigid plastic packaging on the block.

Teqal was established two years ago and is now fully operational, producing classic and innovative solutions to package South Africa’s beauty and personal care products. By Abby Vorster

P

ackaging has to inspire consumers.

launched in February 2017 when Sean

Introducing Reflections

These days, good design simply

Kirkham (ex-Consupaq), his wife, Renee

According to Euromonitor International,

isn’t enough, particularly in the

(ex-Consupaq) and Dean Mitchel (seasoned

global per capita spend on beauty and

cosmetics industry where packaging

tool maker) went into business together.

personal care products is expected to

They started small, operating out of premises

continue to increase in the next three

functionality and sustainability have become essential purchasing criteria.

at the Dube TradePort alongside King

It takes more than the best CAD/CAM software on the market to design and produce functional packaging that engages the senses. It requires a creative and experienced team, excellent quality raw materials and modern,

Shaka International Airport in

DID YOU KNOW?

KwaZulu-Natal, and have grown substantially in the past 12 months.

The name Teqal originated from the company’s capabilities to ‘do tech well’. Creative and catchy, Sean says the short name is immediately recognisable on packaging.

energy efficient equipment.

You’ll find all this and more, as

‘We’re moving onto new

years. These products are primarily essential toiletries, such as bath and shower, hair and skin care products, which, in terms of packaging, translate into growing volumes of HDPE jars and bottles. As a result, the global packaging

land within the TradePort in

industry is expected to post a two

the near future to support

percent compound annual growth rate,

our growing business, which

generating 2.6 billion units between 2017

focuses on injection moulded rigid plastic packaging,’

explains Sean. ‘Using our extensive experience and creativity, we design

and 2022.

Both locally and internationally, analysts predict the demand for masstige and premium beauty products will continue

well of some of the best brains

and produce unique packaging to match

to grow, naturally triggering an increased

in the business, at Teqal Creative

and often exceed our clients’ requirements.

need for more innovative packaging.

Packaging (Teqal).

We’re proud to have Tiaan van Zyl on our

Teqal is a new manufacturer of rigid packaging for the cosmetics and personal care industry. The company was

team, who has 27 years’ experience in mould design. He designed the first cosmetic jar moulds for Consupaq.’

Teqal’s new range of Reflections cosmetics jars are a perfect packaging solution for masstige and premium beauty products. ‘Elements within the jar and cap bend and reflect light. The design incorporates a floating inner

Tiaan van Zyl, Dean Mitchell and Sean Kirkham

and heavy base, which, along with the cap inner, feature unique facets. The complementary elements give a premium look and engage the sense of sight.

The soft feel of the cap rotation and the cap’s snap action are thoughtful additions we’ve included to engage consumers’ sense of touch,’ say Sean.

Dean Mitchell

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| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

COMPANY FOCUS PAPERLESS

FAST

EFFICIENT

ACCURATE

TEQAL RUNS A FULLY INTEGRATED, REAL TIME PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT AND ERP SYSTEM With Reflections, the company has used a magic combination of uninhibited creativity and practical functionality to offer beauty brands the differentiation they need to gain loyal

packaging. To sustain a high performance team, Sean says everyone is urged to partake in physical activity.

‘Our staff is encouraged to walk,

consumers. The cap and jar designs are

run or cycle the mountain bike

customisable based on a customer’s

trail accessible from our office,’ he

needs with options ranging from a flared or

comments. ‘It’s these and other finer

straight sided cap to a tapered or straight

details that are central to our success.

sided jar. The foil band can incorporate a

We shoot for the stars at Teqal. Our

wave or classic straight shape with variable

team is made up of goal focused

colours while the facets on the base of the

individuals, with specialised expertise

jar are customisable.

and complementary skills, who

Elements within the jar and cap bend and reflect light

Christine South ey, Renee Kirkham and Liz O’Reilly

collaborate, innovate and produce consistently superior packaging for brands looking to delight consumers with beautiful, functional and sustainable packaging.’

There’s something vibrant about

The jars are produced using Teqal’s

the company. Its commitment to the

modern, efficient production platform

cosmetics and personal care industry

and state of the art toolroom. Its in house

to produce cost-effective, premium

R&D capabilities are extensive, including

packaging with guaranteed supply,

a 3D printer and factory, running Siemens

is refreshing.

NX software to deliver the next generation of design and manufacturing solutions.

‘Our complete offering is next level,’

Sean adds: ‘We want to make packaging better and more sustainable in South Africa. We believe Teqal can

Sean explains, ‘by combining the

achieve this by investing in the right skills,

best skills in the industry with modern

structure and administrative systems

equipment, mostly sourced from Europe,

along with robust compliance measures

Teqal can offer more than ever before. We

and an automated platform. Building

have also brought design and injection

on our strong reputation, we will also

mould tooling in house to ensure our

keep developing one stable production

customers’ projects remain confidential

platform after another in line with market

and are sustainable.’

and customer demands.’ •

A dream team This owner run and managed business does more than create spectacular

Teqal Creative Packaging – www.teqal.co.za

Closures conveyed during production

Shaun Fagan

Shaun Maharaj

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

17

PHARMA FOCUS//Regulations & Legislation

How to manage pharmaceutical waste Martin McClintock, A Thermal’s industrial pharmacist, looks

at updates to Act 101 of 1965 and subsequent changes to some of the regulations governing the destruction of medicine and scheduled substances.

U

pdates to the General

substances shall only be destroyed

and wholesalers of these type of products

Regulations of The Medicines

by a waste treatment facility licensed

are now faced with added responsibility. In

Act, gazetted on 25 August

under the Waste Act with a license that

addition, because S0 medicine can be sold

2017 brought a few changes

includes the authorisation to destroy

in any retail outlet, the retrieval of damaged

medicines or pharmaceuticals.

and expired S0 medicine from these

to certain regulations. The previous Regulation 27 (Destruction of Medicine)

Regulation 44. (2) stipulates: ‘No

was substantially updated and rewritten

medicines or scheduled substances

consistently. Retailers should be educated

as Regulation 44 (Destruction of

other than those as determined by

on the importance of handling this medicine

Medicine or Scheduled Substances).

the Authority shall be disposed of into

in a responsible way, to protect society, the

municipal sewerage systems’.

environment and natural resources.

Regulation 44 (1) can be regarded as the most important sub regulation that

retailers should be done more regularly and

Pharmaceuticals in solution are

Regulation 44. (5) and Regulation 44. (6)

gives clear guidance on how destruction

difficult to remove from water and

cover the destruction of schedule 5 or 6 and

of medicine and scheduled substances

most water treatment facilities.

7 or 8 substances or medicine:

should be approached. 44. (1) A

Sewerage treatment facilities are

• 44. (5) A Schedule 5 or 6 substance or

medicine or scheduled substance shall

also not equipped to remove these

only be destroyed by a waste treatment

pharmaceuticals completely. As a

facility authorised to destroy medicines

result, the global phenomenon of

(a) an inspector

or pharmaceutical waste in terms of the

pharmaceutical residues in drinking

(b) a pharmacist

water should be a major cause

(c) any other person authorised by the CEO.

for concern.

• 44. (6) A Schedule 7 or 8 substance or

By adopting a risk-based approach, the probability of pharmaceuticals ending up in potable water can be eliminated National Environmental Management: Waste Act, 2008 (Act No. 59 of 2008).

The most important aspect to consider is: medicines or scheduled

medicine shall be destroyed in terms of sub regulation (1) in the presence of

Regulation 44. (3) states: ‘The

medicine shall be destroyed in terms of

destruction or disposal of medicines

sub regulation (1) in the presence of:

or scheduled substances must be

(a) an inspector

conducted in such a manner to

(b) two pharmacists

ensure the medicines or scheduled

(c) any other person authorised by

substances cannot be salvaged and the

medicine or scheduled substance has been denatured’.

This regulation has been improved

the CEO. Regulation 44. (7) covers the rules

relating to certification and record keeping.

44. (7) The waste treatment facility shall

from the previous regulation 27 (3)

issue a certificate and maintain a record

clause, which only stated the medicine

of the destruction contemplated in sub

or scheduled substances should not

regulations (4),

be retrievable. It has now been

(5) and (6), which shall contain the

included that these substances

following information:

should be denatured.

• the name of the medicine or scheduled substance, if known; or the

When it’s scheduled In Regulation 44. (4), S0 medication is

schedule of the medicine or scheduled substance concerned

included: (4) A Schedule 0 medicine or

• the quantity destroyed

Schedule 1, 2, 3 or 4 substance or medicine

• the date of destruction of the medicine or

must be destroyed at a site in terms of sub regulation (1) and such destruction must be certified as determined by the authority. Manufacturers

scheduled substance • the name and designation of the person in whose presence such destruction took place • any other information as determined by the authority.

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| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

Regulations & Legislation //PHARMA FOCUS

Category

Incineration

Co-processing

Thermal desorption

a risk-based approach, the probability of

Tech fit for purpose

√

X

√

pharmaceuticals ending up in potable

Correct gas clean-up

√

X

√

Complete destruction (solids and gases)

√

X

√

Environmental impact

Medium

very high

low

Emissions standards

High

low

high

End product

ash to landfill

clinker to cement

carbonised fuel

Local destruction methods

consumption, taking into consideration

The previous Regulation 27 of Act 101 mainly

the environment and harm to health.

stated medicine and scheduled substances

Good Pharmacy Practice, medicine and

sewerage system and the product should

scheduled substances were never meant

be non-retrievable. This was offset by the

to be landfilled.

quality of our water, which will benefit the general health of society and even help curb problems such as infertility and antibiotic resistance. •

Incineration, cement kiln co-processing

pharmaceuticals, which left an opportunity

and thermal desorption (pyrolysis)

for companies to go the landfill route. This

are examples of destruction methods.

practice could be understood if it’s taken

Autoclaving and electro-thermal

into account that landfills carry half to a

deactivation (microwave) are not suitable

third of the costs incurred by destruction.

for pharmaceutical destruction.

However, disposal to landfill is not an

In turn, this might assist to improve the

It can therefore be argued, according to

are not allowed to be disposed of in the

waste act that allowed the landfilling of

water can be eliminated or greatly reduced.

environmentally suitable or responsible

Conclusion

choice because medicines may still be

It can be argued the intention of this

recoverable by scavengers (human and

legislation is clear. Medicine should be

animal) and metabolites may leach into

destroyed and not merely sent to landfill

the surrounding water-table. The waste is

or disposed of in sewerage. By adopting

A Thermal – www.athermal.co.za

ABOUT Martin McClintock is an industrial pharmacist specialising in the safe destruction of pharmaceuticals in the best possible environmentally friendly way.

McClintock completed B.Pharm in 2000 and M.Sc Pharm in 2002 at North West University. He has vast experience in the formulation, production, QC, QA, RA, sale and destruction of medicine, which gives him a broad understanding of most aspects of pharmacy.

also not treated and is merely reserved for future generations.

In the past, the term ‘disposal’ was used to describe landfilling and ‘destruction’ to describe thermal treatment. In the Rules Relating to Good Pharmacy Practice, gazetted on 2 March 2012, both terms are clearly defined: • ‘disposal’ denotes the removal of medicines and scheduled substances destined for destruction without the intention of retrieval, in compliance with existing legislation • ‘destruction’ denotes rendering the medicines and scheduled substances unusable or irretrievable for use or

YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED Q: Is my product classified as a foodstuff or a medicine?

A: The definition of a medicine and veterinary medicine can be found in Act 101 of 1965 (1. Definitions) as of 1 June 2017 (including Act 72 of 2008 and Act 14 of 2015) and the definition and classification of complementary medicine and health supplements can be found in the General Regulations to Act 101 of 1965 as published on 25 Aug 2017.

Q: Is my unwanted product classified as Hazardous Waste?

A: The National Environmental Management: Waste Act (Act 59 of 2008) defines hazardous waste as any waste containing organic or inorganic elements or compounds that may – owing to the inherent physical, chemical or toxicological characteristics of the waste – have a detrimental impact on health and the environment.

Q: Does your policy on handling hazardous waste meet the following criteria?

• Is the product destroyed or merely disposed of?

• Is the service provider licensed for medicine or pharmaceutical waste?

• Does any of the product end up in the municipal sewerage systems?

• Is the waste salvageable?

• Is it denatured?

• Are Schedule 0 to Schedule 4 products destroyed by a licensed facility?

• Does the facility have a permanent pharmacist?

• Does the facility have a destruction certificate or disposal certificate?

• Is there limited effect on the environment and health?

A: Pharmacists needs to ensure the life cycle of products created under their care ends in a controlled fashion with the lowest possible impact and risk to health and the environment. Formulate your company’s environmental policy and approve a vendor aligned with your company’s policy.

The green scorpions are the law enforcement arm of the department of environmental affairs (dea). The dea regulates destruction facilities and is keeping tight control, yet goalposts are constantly being moved. This means audits should be conducted often at destruction facilities to verify service providers respect the law and deliver a compliant service. This due diligence should also cover any sub-contractors used as a lot of waste management companies make use of independent destruction facilities, which might not be compliant.

P C Review | FEBRUARY FEBRAURY 2019 |

19

INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING

High quality codes for less Streamline 5 – a small character coder – and the hi-resolution printing system, CoPilot 382, are the newest additions to Squid Ink’s growing family of CIJ printing, marking and coding systems.

T

he new Squid Streamline 5 CIJ printing system is designed to print small, superior quality characters on a variety of substrates,

including porous, non-porous, smooth, textured, curved and concave.

Printing up to five lines of text, the Streamline 5 offers a reliable, yet cost

No chips or RFID tags are used to lock users into a fluids hostage situation with the printer manufacturer

effective solution for virtually any small

easy automatic start-up and shut down.

character, primary package coding

A simple press of a button commands the

application. Unlike

printer to go through

any other CIJ printer

a start-up cycle or

on the market, it does

flush the system for

not require a built in

shutdown. When

display screen. The

routine maintenance

Streamline 5 operates

is required,

with a wireless or

components can be

wired touchscreen

swapped out within

tablet running Squid

minutes, eliminating

Ink’s powerful Orion

the need to purchase

software, allowing

CIJ printing on a pharmaceutical product

the user the option of controlling the printer on the production floor, or networking multiple systems from a central location.

Maximum efficiency

expensive filter and pump assemblies or

schedule costly service calls.

Changing fluids in the Streamline 5 is a simple, fast and clean process. Clean cartridges of ink and makeup can be replaced in seconds without having to stop

Its self-cleaning printhead with CleanJet

production. In addition, no chips or RFID tags

maintenance routine allows quick and

are used to lock users into a fluids hostage situation with the printer manufacturer. As a

LASER CODING SYSTEMS SQUID INK’S SQ-10 and SQ-30 laser coding systems are designed for high speed primary coding applications on pharmaceutical products, cosmetics and food and beverages.

The lasers can permanently mark paper, cardboard, plastic, glass, wood, coated metal and leather. Users choose between a 10W (SQ-10) and 30W system (SQ-30) depending on their specific application requirements.

The systems offer permanent coding of text, time and date, bar codes and serial numbering. They are quick and easy to install on stationary and moving products and easily fit into production environments where space is limited. The laser head can be rotated 90° in less than five minutes. They are also economical, clean and eco-friendly. Their IP54 rating ensures maximum reliability and uptime in demanding applications.

20

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

proven ink manufacturer, Squid Ink offers a comprehensive range of inks for a variety of

Coding on an FMCG product makes the product traceable throughout the supply chain

inks for printing on a variety of products like coated cartons, plastics, glass, stretch wrap and metals. Squid Ink’s PZ-1000 ink for porous substrates offers low-maintenance performance, eliminating the need for autopriming functions and offering better ink utilisation than competitive systems.

With the CoPilot 382, users can meet the GS1 barcode specification for less. Any way you look at it, Squid Ink’s CoPilot 382 provides users with an affordable solution to meet their ink jet coding needs.

The Streamline 5 and CoPilot 382 are available now through Squid Ink’s worldwide network of authorised distributors, including Goldpack in South Africa which services the sub-Saharan African region. •

applications and industry requirements.

Application versatility Squid Ink’s CoPilot 382 printing system is designed to print superior quality hi-resolution characters on porous and non-porous surfaces. With up to 2.1 inches of print height per printhead and the ability to run up to two printheads from one controller, the CoPilot 382 offers a versatile, yet cost effective solution for coding and marking applications.

The system is capable of running oilor solvent-based inks to print up to 4.2 inches (2.1 inches from a single head) of hi-resolution characters, razor sharp text, scannable bar codes, and great looking logos at 185dpi.

For non-porous applications, users have the option of using Squid Ink’s solvent-based

The new Squid Streamline 5 CIJ printing system

Goldpack – www.goldpack.co.za

Squid Ink Coding and Marking Solutions CoPilot 382

SQ2 Printer

PZ Pilot Pro Printer

SQ Laser Printer

Installed and GUARANTEED by

Streamline 5 CAPE TOWN Tel: 021-534 0215 DURBAN Tel: 031-569 4199 JOHANNESBURG Tel: 011-312 4976 sales@goldpack.co.za www.goldpack.co.za

TAS 3319

INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING

The future of pharma packaging

Serialised coding is an excellent anti-counterfeiting measure. Serialisation is now a legal requirement for pharmaceutical products, in many countries around the world.

W

ith serialisation, each product or component is assigned a unique serial number or code,

making it possible to trace items as they move through the supply chain to the end user. These unique identifiers are printed using coding or marking equipment.

The ability to track and trace each product and component throughout the supply chain – from origin to expiration –

With unique identifiers or seriliased codes on pharmaceutical packaging, all stakeholders in the supply chain can locate a product at any given point

makes it more difficult for counterfeiters to infiltrate the chain and pass off their products as authentic.

Improved visibility is another reason why manufacturers implement serialisation. All stakeholders in the supply chain can locate a product or raw material at any given point.

THE BENEFITS OF FIX-A-FORM BOOKLET LABELS

Serialisation also helps to manage recalls more efficiently. It makes it much easier to locate and retract products, so fewer untainted products are recalled because batches are quickly identifiable.

Fix-a-Form labels are ideal for the 2D barcodes needed for serialisation How it works is the codes are generated randomly or sequentially.

Once the codes have been purchased,

on packaging.

Fix-a-Form informational booklet labels from Pyrotec PackMedia offer significant healthcare applications. They extend the space available for product descriptions

purchases

and user guidelines, safety messages

• information can be reproduced in multiple

and contraindications, dosage

languages, extending the reach of on-pack

instructions, medical device instructions

communication

and patient information leaflets. As an

• space to include 2D barcodes and other legislated information • elimination of separate packaging, leaflets or labels for wide product ranges

anti-counterfeiting measure, Fix-a-Form labels are ideal for the 2D barcodes needed for serialisation.

Affixing to almost any package

• minimised packaging waste

surface, Fix-a-Form booklet labels offer

• labels are supplied on-reel for automatic

an innovative and space-efficient way

application using standard labelling

to communicate detailed product

machinery, resulting in uninterrupted

information as well as include legislated

production lines.

information without compromising on shelf appeal. They are available in a virtually unlimited range of shapes and

shipping case. The labels are scanned on the packaging line to determine where the unit must be packed.

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

label, or within the space provided

encourage correct product use and repeat

the labels of each saleable unit and

22

information does not fit on a standard

benefits for pharmaceutical and • clear, legible on-pack guidelines that

manufacturers print a 2D barcode onto

Some pharma manufacturers include codes to product packaging to aid compliance.

When scanned with a smartphone, the QR code directs the patient to a website demonstrating how to use the product, such as an inhaler

healthcare product labelling, often this

Fix the challenge One of the challenges of serialisation is label redesign to allow space for the new 2D barcode. While legislation demands increasingly detailed information to be contained on pharmaceutical and

sizes, which can be tailored to meet packaging requirements.

When fully implemented, serialisation will reduce theft and counterfeiting by increasing transparency and visibility throughout the supply chain. It will also increase the speed and reduce the cost of product recalls. •

Pyrotec PackMedia – www.packmedia.co.za

INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING

Keep an eye on the supply chain

GTINs on pharma products are rapidly becoming a pre-requisite for traceability from production to delivery to the patient. A locally produced solution is now available to manufacturers which takes into account the South African supply chain and landscape.

S

trato International, a division of the Techniques Group, provides leading edge track and trace serialisation and anti-counterfeiting packaging

solutions for the pharma, nutraceutical and cosmetics industry. Its range of machinery for carton coding will enable manufacturers and contract packaging companies to successfully implement serialisation, to comply with various market related requirements specified by global industry authorities.

The Strato SPCC Station is a state of the art track and trace serialisation system that uses the integrated technologies of a Wolke m610 touch printer and a Sea Vison OCV solution to produce a SGTIN (Serialised Global Trade Item Number) in accordance with global standards and regulations.

DESIGNED WITH FUTURE PROOF SOLUTIONS • meets global and future regulations and standards • dual belt technology ensures precision carton control to comply with the A, B and C grades of ANSI/ISO print quality • simple, robust design with few moving parts • interactive 12 inch colour SPCC HMI for easy set up by pharmacode, SKU or item number

Integrated rejection system

• print and check verification • use of incremental sensors from in-feed to outfeed ensures integrity of each carton

cartoning machine on a line. The design allows easy integration into any carton

• minimal maintenance

packing line, due to its 1 000mm space

• integrated rejection system

requirement. Added functionality, such as

• up to two high speed vision cameras with high

tamper evident labeling can be added

speed connectivity

with “add-on” modules.

• remote assistance via Ethernet is offered for support and training.

Complies with GSI standards The print and check feature of the Strato

Strato SPCC track and trace system

The Strato SPCC Station includes track

SPCC applies a controlled machine code

and trace level 1 and level 2 hardware

(barcode/2D code) and human readable

and software that ensures cartons

data to the carton, using a managed in-line

are commissioned according to GS1

printer. The data (code and human

international coding standards.

readable) is then checked and verified by the OCV/OCR vision system for correct

Easy Integration

information and sustainability to ANSI

The SPCC station is equipped with all

grading A, B or C.•

the relevant features to be a standalone system with an option to be fed manually or inserted and synchronised after the

Strato International – www.techniquesgroup.co.za

STRATO SPCC – Serialization, Print, Check and Commission Anti-counterfeiting packaging solution for Pharmaceutical, Nutraceutical & Cosmetic Industry.

Call our sales hotline 086 11 000 55 or email us info@techniquesgroup.co.za

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

23

INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING

Are you ready for 4.0?

Better data management and improved efficiency are just two of the advantages of adopting industry 4.0 on a packaging line. Yet, with many packaging suppliers already operating on tight margins, making the complete switch may appear exorbitant.

O

f course, a modern, flexible and smart line offers the biggest benefits in a manufacturing environment. But if these upgrades are beyond your budget, Industry

4.0 experts at Omron Industrial Automation (Omron) suggest making small changes and focusing specifically on ways to boost efficiency.

Most of the benefits of 4.0 come from having an

DID YOU KNOW?

integrated component and control platform, which allows seamless exchange of data

Industry 4.0 is about more than simply production. Smart, connected technologies can transform how products are designed, made, used and maintained. They can also transform organisations.

Source: Deloitte Insights

between devices and the control system. Having access to component level data is a key enabling factor to realise the benefits. It is particularly beneficial on older equipment, even if some data is available, it’s typically

an on/off indication. For example, the machine is either operational or not.

No granular information is available to indicate the machine’s capacity i.e. it’s not operating at full capacity because of

It is critical all machines communicate using standard protocols and common data sets

increasing wear on the motor bearings or accumulating dirt on an optical.

Capturing data electronically is a good first step. This might require changing working processes to ensure data is logged correctly and not just scribbled illegibly on paper. Where data is already being captured by

Like, follow and start a conversation with us on social media! @PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview @pharmacosreview @SApharmacos

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24

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

New Media Publishing, Ground Floor, Media Park 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2029 PO Box 784698, Sandton, 2146 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111 Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 2018/12/14 09:10

INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING equipment, it should be connected to a higher level IT domain or analytical software.

Small technical upgrades may be required to add additional sensors to capture operating data, convert existing analogue information into a digital format or add a data communications module to provide remote data capture and control.

Once the basic data capture process is place, it is then possible to start analysing the content to ascertain the efficiency of a line or identify potential bottlenecks in the process to allow for further improvements. It will also be possible to monitor device condition, enabling the benefits of preventative maintenance.

Consider this – your inline labelling machine has a small fault. The operators know sometimes it needs to be adjusted to keep it running smoothly. Because it only takes a minute or two to fix, they’ve stopped tracking it

importantly, smart systems can even detect

completely. But over time, even a small fault could

potential issues before they occur, allowing

impact productivity.

preventive maintenance to be scheduled to

An efficient labelling line allows manufacturers to focus their resources elsewhere

ensure lines remain operational. •

A good understanding of how well a packaging line is running allows manufacturers to focus their resources on less efficient parts. It also helps them develop a strategy for migrating lines to enable smart, flexible production.

Omron – www.industrial.omron.co.za

In today’s FMCG market, product runs tend to be shorter and more diverse. Lines set up for a single product or those requiring extended periods for changeover can be significant causes of inefficiency. Retooling a line to support different types of products or automating

Achieve flexible production

changeover can bring substantial benefits.

with integrated robotics solutions

Speak the same language Whether you’re upgrading part of an existing line, or building a new one, it is critical all machines communicate using standard protocols and common data sets. Even a new line may have components from different suppliers, so making sure they all talk the same language is critical.

For example, OPC UA is an open and secure communications standard widely used for Industry 4.0 applications. OPC UA is a cross-platform development of OPC (OLE for Process Control), first defined in 1995 by a number of players in automation together with Microsoft.

OPC UA builds on the success of OPC, offering a platform independent solution that also includes model based

Delta Parallel robot Quattro and Hornet

data handling. line needs to provide standard interfaces for operators.

Standards such as PackML define a series of modes and states to ensure a common HMI look and feel, as well as providing a common method of conveying important data

Smarter decision making Access to data in a common format equips operators and production controllers with what they need to make

SCARA robot eCobra

Mobile robot LD Series

The new Omron Robotic Automation enhances the most demanding manufacturing lines. Realize faster line start-up & change-over, implement easier to use technology & vertical line integration, and facilitate faster data capture & analysis to increase your in-line efficiency.

In addition to open communication, equipment on the

between machines.

Articulated robot Viper

Our industrial robotics range from articulated, SCARA, and DELTA to collaborative (mobile) robots that optimize the handling of varying lot sizes and diverse products, formats and qualities. Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions that give you a competitive edge!

Discover how to improve your flexible production, contact us: +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za

informed decisions about the status of a packaging line. Issues can be identified and fixed quicker. More

robot_88,5x130_p&c_review_ad_enza_01.indd 1 P C Review |

| 25 12:52 FEBRUARY 2019 20-07-17

INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING

New software delivers added value Linx has upgraded its 8900 series of CIJ printers with new software. The series is now suitable for more applications and provides businesses with a number of new competitive advantages.

Using the latest version of Linx

The enhancements have improved print speeds by as much as 33 percent The smartphone inspired screen on the 8900 series makes message selection, creation and printer operation faster than ever

T

can now be made remotely by the Linx support team. Customers can also choose to run the software upgrade at their convenience, saving valuable time and ensuring their Linx printers are equipped with the latest software and security features.

‘The series offers excellent new benefits to businesses across contract packaging, pharmaceutical, food

he Linx 8900 series, available in

printers and receive proactive advice

South Africa from J-Pak, is now

and maintenance from the Linx technical

capable of producing faster

support team.

print speeds and printing over

A new KPI dashboard has been added

longer throw distances. The series also

to the service, which users can access

promises error-proof date code changes

via a tablet, phone or PC. The dashboard

and quicker message editing, resulting in

shows whether production is on target

greater production output.

for each batch. This enables managers

When a message is selected or

changes, ensuring each batch finishes on

from a pre-defined range of dates

time and customers’ deadlines are met.

suitable for the product being coded.

This makes editing quick and easy as there is no need to edit dates manually.

When part of a message is inserted, edited or deleted, the remaining parts of the message move intelligently to best present the code.

The enhancements have also improved print speeds by as much as 33 percent and up to 440m per minute.

High speed production lines can now achieve higher resolution printing without compromising speed.

Advanced remote monitoring and control The latest version of Linx Printernet has just been released. This is the company’s secure cloud-based service, which enables operators to monitor and control their Linx 8900 printers remotely. It allows users to carry out printer setup, change messages, monitor the status of their

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

and beverage, and cabling, wiring and extrusion industries,’ comments John Tierney, marketing director at Linx Printing Technologies. ‘This is an example of how we continually strive to evolve our existing product ranges to offer the best option for companies that need to code onto products.’ •

to monitor production rates and make

updated, the operator simply chooses

26

Printernet, printer software updates

A Linx 8900 CIJ printer

J-Pak – www.jpak.co.za Linx – www.linx.co.za

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS

Dive deep into

the beauty of the sea Marine environments are a great source of inspiration for natural and sustainable ingredients.

They are home to the highest percentage of living biosphere on our planet and offer a rich source of inspiration for new product development in cosmetics. By Júlia Comas, Cristina Davi, Elena Cañadas, Núria Almiñana and Raquel Delgado

M

icroorganisms in oceans and rivers adapt to their

by 15 percent (p<0.05) and collagen density by 2.4 percent. It also

extreme and changing surroundings using different

helped smooth the skin with an improvement in skin homogeneity of

mechanisms. Depending on the origin, climate and

7.9 percent (p<0.01) and rejuvenated the microrelief structure by

environmental conditions, each microorganism

113 percent versus the placebo (see Figure 1).

produces distinctive secondary metabolites for survival and adaptation. These metabolites are of significant interest to the

A smoother silhouette

cosmetics industry because of their potential skin care benefits.

Actiphyte bladderwrack is an extract of Fucus vesiculosus,

Lipotec Active Ingredients’ marine beauty concept is based on a selection of algae extracts and biotechnological ingredients obtained from a conceptual journey of different marine locations worldwide.

a type of brown algae. Endemic to the North American and European Atlantic coasts and islands, such as the Canary Islands, bladderwrack can grow in a variety of environments, ranging from rocky shores to saline lagoons.

In traditional medicine, bladderwrack was applied topically to

The result is a sustainable portfolio

treat burns and insect bites and to counteract the signs of ageing.

of speciality ingredients that

It was also used as a treatment for obesity and to reduce the

provide a complete range of

accumulation of cellulite.

benefits for all skin types.

Rejuvenated menopausal skin Cellynkage marine ingredient is an

The seaweed may work as an anticellulite ingredient due to its ability to inhibit adipogenesis

exopolysaccharide (EPS) obtained from Halomonas eurihalina

According to literature, the seaweed may work as an anti-cellulite

using biotechnology.

ingredient due to its ability to inhibit adipogenesis attributed to the

The microorganism

presence of sulphated polysaccharide fucoidan and iodine 1, 2.

inhabits the Agua

Fucoidan has been studied for its contribution to improve skin

Amarga salt marsh

elasticity for a firmer body, while bladderwrack has photoprotective

in Alicante, Spain.

benefits for reduced lipid peroxidation, thanks to fucoxanthin and

The ingredient helps

sulfated polyshaccaride compounds3, 4. These benefits make it a

enhance the overall

highly suitable ingredient for slimming and anti-cellulite preparations

communication

to obtain a smoother silhouette.

within the skin, among keratinocytes and

Replenish mature skin

between keratinocytes

Hyanify marine ingredient is an EPS obtained from the

and fibroblasts, resulting in an improved appearance of menopausal skin.

A clinical study was performed on 20 menopausal women, who applied a cream with two percent of the marine ingredient on one half of the face and a placebo cream on the other, twice a day for 56 days. At the end of the treatment, results showed the ingredient increased epidermal thickness

biotechnological fermentation of a marine y-proteobacteria strain, isolated from the surface of a Laminaria alga. The alga is found in the extreme environment of the Aber Wrac’h estuary in Brittany, France.

The marine ingredient has been proven to help stimulate the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and improve the appearance of the nasolabial folds of volunteers.

Its replenishing effect was evaluated on a panel of 19 volunteers with nasolabial folds of moderate intensity. The volunteers applied a cream containing one percent of the marine ingredient, twice a day. Before the first application and after 14 and 28 days, skin topography was assessed using FOITS. Different wrinkle parameters were calculated using fringe projection 3D images.

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

27

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS softness5. Carrageenan is also believed to Figure 1: Representation of the microrelief structure of a volunteer

enhance lipolysis, acting as a coadjuvant in anti-cellulite treatments5, 6. Irish moss can also be used for its emollient properties, especially in formulations for hair and nail products, thanks to its ability to bind to keratin fibres6.

From sludge to perfect skin Obtained using biotechnology, Antarcticine marine ingredient is a

56 days

0 days

glylcoprotein from the marine extremophile strain Pseudoalteromonas antarctica NF3. The strain was isolated from sludge

At the end of the treatment, results

Moisture from the sea

showed the ingredient had reduced

Actiphyte Irish moss consists of an extract

Antarctica to create a marine ingredient

of Chondrus crispus. This red alga is native

that assists in offering cryoprotective

to the rocky coasts of the Celtic Sea.

properties on the skin and contributes to

maximum wrinkle depth by 19.6 percent (**p<0.01) and average wrinkle depth by 18.5 percent

Traditionally, the moss was a folk remedy

collected at the base of a glacier in

reducing the main signs of ageing.

(**p<0.01). Wrinkle circumference,

for many health ailments and as an

area and volume were also

emollient to improve the appearance of

female volunteers, presenting wrinkles

reduced by 15.3 percent (*p<0.05),

chapped skin.

on the face and signs of facial dryness.

According to literature, Irish moss is

17.2percent (**p<0.01) and

A clinical study was performed on 20

The subjects applied a cream with one

a major source of the linear sulphated

percent of the marine ingredient on one

polysaccharide carrageenan, which has

hemi-face and a placebo cream on

images facilitated the visualisation

multiple cosmetics benefits. Carrageenan

the other, twice a day for 30 days. They

of this replenishing effect and

is known for its ability to hold moisture â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

were then asked to spend an hour a day

rejuvenation (see Figure 2).

a contributing factor in improving skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

outdoors in cold weather conditions.

27.0 percent (**p<0.01) respectively.

Silicone patterns and digital

0 days

28 days

Figure 2: Images and 3D silicone patterns of a volunteer before and after treatment

0 days

28 days

Different parameters were evaluated at selected times of the study.

At the end of the treatment, a 14.8 percent (p<0.001) increase in hydration was obtained, together with a 14.7 percent (p<0.001) decrease in TEWL. A firming activity was also achieved with a 9.2 percent (p<0.001) reduction in maximal deformation and a 6.1 percent (p<0.001) increase in overall elasticity.

Skin redness caused by cold weather was another parameter evaluated during the study. Results showed a 4.5 percent (p<0.01) reduction in the erythema index.

Figure 3: Digital pictures of a volunteer before and after treatment

Skin profilometry was evaluated using a 3D scanner. These results revealed a

28

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS reduction in wrinkle depth and volume of 10.6 (p<0.01)

using this portfolio of marine ingredients, available in South Africa

and 9.3 percent (p<0.1) respectively. Digital images were

from Savannah Fine Chemicals. Divided into two main categories,

taken to provide supporting evidence of the ingredient’s efficacy (see Figure 3).

biotechnological or botanical, the different ingredients are complementary and can be used in combination to address the needs of any skin type. •

Asian algae for a fair complexion Actiphyte wakame is the extract of Undaria pinnatifida. This brown alga, native to the Sea of Japan, is both common and edible.

It is served mostly in soups and salads in Japan and other countries worldwide.

REFERENCES 1.Burlando B. et al. Bladderwrack. Herbal Principles in Cosmetics: Properties and Mechanisms of Action. 82-86, 2010.

2.Kui-Jin K. et al. Fucoidan, a sulfated polysaccharide, inhibits adipogenesis through the

Traditionally, the extract was used for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antiviral benefits and it was known to have antiobesity properties too. According to literature, when applied, wakame is believed to have skin brightening effects, mostly due to its fucoxanthin content, which can reduce pigmentation7.

The seaweed may also present elastase, collagenase and glycation inhibition properties. These properties can help lower degeneration of the skin while promoting the formation of new extracellular matrix proteins . The alga is also known to help 8

soothe the skin post inflammation9. These extensive benefits make Actiphyte wakame an ideal ingredient for products formulated for

mitogen-activated protein kinase pathway in 3T3-L1 preadipocytes. Life sciences. 86, 791-797, 2010.

3.Peng J. et al. Fucoxanthin, a Marine Carotenoid Present in Brown Seaweeds and Diatoms: Metabolism and Bioactivities Relevant to Human Health. Mar Drugs. 9(10):1806-1828, 2011.

4.Rodriguez-Jasso R., et al. Chemical composition and antioxidant activity of sulphated polysaccharides extracted from Fucus vesiculosus using different hydrothermal processes.

Chemical Papers. 68(2):203-209, 2014.

5.Goldfaden G., Goldfaden R. Unique Peptide Repairs Aging Skin. Life Extension Magazine. 2013.

6.Burlando, B. et al. Irish moss. Herbal Principles in Cosmetics: Properties and Mechanisms of Action. 217-219, 2010.

7.Shimoda H. et al. Anti-pigmentary activity of fucoxanthin and its influence on skin mRNA expression of melanogenic molecules. J Pharm Pharmacol. 62(9):1137-45, 2010.

8.Fitton J.H. Topical Benefits of Two Fucoidant-Rich Extracts from Marine Macroalgae. Cosmetics.

2(2):66-81, 2015.

a fair complexion.

9.Khan M. Anti-inflammatory activities of methanol extracts from various seaweed species.

Journal of Environmental Biology. 29(4):465-469, 2008.

A good match Lipotec Active Ingredients’ marine beauty concept demonstrates the enormous potential marine environments offer the cosmetics industry. A wide variety of skin care benefits can be obtained

Lipotec Active Ingredients – www.lipotec.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

MARINE BEAUTY

Underwater journey to pamper your skin

Immerse yourself with Lipotec™ in the underwater world to discover a selection of innovative active ingredients from marine origin, providing specific claims for different skin types and needs.

© 2016, 2017, 2019 The Lubrizol Corporation

Sin título-1 1

04/02/2019 16:01:55

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

29

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS

Open innovation

– a powerful mechanism to drive change Steve Foots, Croda’s chief executive, talks to P C Review about open innovation, Since then, most R&D for textured and sustainability and how the curly hair types has moved from North global company’s team in America to its African operations.

‘In North America, Croda’s hair South Africa is changing care R&D focused specifically on two industry perceptions on different types of curly hair. Yet we soon African hair and skin. realised there are more than 16 types,’

Open innovation Croda aims to be the partner of choice for its customers, potential customers, academia and technology developers, to build new supply chains, evaluate disruptive technology and provide the market with solutions at a faster pace.

Foots explains. ‘This is a key example of

These developments are achieved

how being closer to market has given

through what the company calls ‘

he global speciality chemicals

Croda a sharp focus in its innovation

open innovation’.

company innovates for its

strategy, connecting the company

customers’ needs. To do so

with its customers, both big

successfully, Foots says Croda

and small, subsequently

By Abby Vorster

T

Mine Enustun, Steve Foots, Sebastien Moughli and Lumbidzani Moyo

works closely with its customers, employing

connecting our customers

a unique business model.

to their consumers.’

Over the past seven years, the global

The company’s

Croda provides those it

DID YOU KNOW?

works with, with access to specialist market,

60 percent of global companies practice open innovation, combining competitions with partnerships to solve complex problems.

company’s presence in emerging markets

team in South

has increased. Using regional centres, the

Africa has taken a

business has transferred its competitive

proactive approach

products, processes and expertise to

to generating real data

operations in Asia, Latin America and Africa,

on real African hair.

where they are tailored to local conditions.

Because hair care research

‘Croda has established technical teams,

With its open innovation programme,

Source: www.accenture.com

is an expensive and sensitive

formulation and product application knowledge in exchange for access to their world class knowledge, expertise, facilities and equipment.

To date, Croda has

undertaken 400 projects with universities in the UK. It has also

sales teams, and production facilities in

process, strict ethics and protocols

acquired 12 technologies through its

some of the fastest growing economies

had to be established before the

open innovation programme. Croda

in the world, doubling its number of R&D

team began recruiting consumers

is internationalising the programme to

centres worldwide,’ says Foots. ‘This has

from the surrounding community. As

scout for next generation technologies in

put the company in the best position to

a result, Croda South Africa founded

Africa, particularly focusing on

understand what consumers really want and

the right programme, propelling the

locally developed, natural plant actives

to innovate for customers’ needs.’

global company to the forefront of

and ingredients.

research and innovation in the African

South Africa is a breeding ground for

hair care market.

innovation. Its plant diversity is the third

The Centre of Excellence for Africa at Croda South Africa was established in 2015.

30

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS Sustainable innovation

2012

2019

15 R&D laboratories in key locations

30 R&D laboratories located worldwide

Croda has a longstanding commitment to invest in sustainability and innovation.

Sustainability is embedded in its strategic thinking and forms a crucial part of how the global business adds value to its customers.

In October, Croda announced the official launch and certification of its ECO range of bio-based surfactants.

These ingredients are designed to

largest in the world and presents a green

The company’s areas of interest for

meet increasing market demands for

goldmine for the global cosmetics industry.

open innovation include novel ingredients

sustainable, high performance ingredient

By creating wider ecosystems where

that offer performance benefits in the

options. The new 100 percent bio-based

everyone can contribute to innovation, local

personal care industry and new processing

and 100 percent renewable range of

communities can also be uplifted

technologies that allow Croda to

non-ionic surfactants is said to be the

and empowered.

manufacture products in a more efficient

widest commercially available and

and sustainable manner.

is certified to meet the criteria of

Foots comments: ‘We are interested in working with universities and

‘Over the next decade, winning

the USDA BioPreferred programme

strategic partners to identify next

companies of the world will be those that not

(www.biopreferred.gov). The

generation ingredients from the region

only deliver strong and consistent financial

ingredients are also manufactured

for cosmetics, hair care and personal

results but also strong and consistent

using renewable energy.

care applications. We can also help

non-financial results. This is achieved by

With the ECO range, Croda has

academic institutions and startups

uplifting communities, reducing emissions,

created a step change worldwide by

overcome the barriers they face when it

accelerating transition to renewable

offering bio-based and renewable

comes to commercialising

ingredients and focusing on sustainable

options that reduce reliance on fossil

their innovations.’

innovation,’ he adds.

fuels and lower the carbon footprint of these ingredients versus their petroleumbased alternatives. By simply replacing a petroleum-derived ingredient with its renewable variant, a significant improvement in bio-based content and renewability can be achieved without a sacrifice in product performance.

Now customers won’t have to choose between meeting their sustainability goals and delivering high performance products to consumers – they can have the best of both worlds with Croda.•

Steve Foots, pictured centre, with the Croda South Africa personal care team

Croda – www.crodapersonalcare.com

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

31

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS

Vantage broadens its portfolio Subsequent to regulatory approval, Vantage Specialty Chemicals, the vertically integrated provider of naturally derived ingredients, has acquired Leuna-Tenside, a manufacturer of specialty surfactants.

L

euna-Tenside (LTG) is based

and soap-free formulations in the

in Leuna, Germany, where it

personal care industry.

produces high quality niche products in small volumes,

using flexible manufacturing capabilities.

LTG’s product portfolio includes anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and emulsifiers based on naturally derived ingredients. All its

A winning fit

DID YOU KNOW? Personal care is one of the

‘The acquisition of LTG is a transformational deal for

major end-users of speciality surfactants. These ingredients are used in a variety of products as foaming agents, dispersants, emulsifiers, solubilising agents, cleansers and conditioners.

products are used in various end markets. These include

Vantage that provides

manufacturing capacity and customer service.”

Keval Patel, MD at HIG, Vantage’s

us with a strategic

holding company. ‘We are very excited

manufacturing footprint in

to add LTG to the Vantage platform.

Europe,’ comments Tiffany

This transaction fits our core strategic

Kyllmann, chief strategy officer of Vantage. ‘LTG’s

production facility is attractively located in Germany with products

plan to expand our manufacturing footprint globally with a core focus on the specialty personal care and food ingredients markets. We are very excited

personal care applications, soaps

and chemistries similar to those of

to partner with the LTG team as we grow

and detergents, industrial cleaning,

Vantage. The synergistic combination

our European business.’ •

lubricants and paints and coatings.

of LTG and Vantage will bring

This diverse offering will open up new

enhanced value for our customers

opportunities for Vantage in the fast

through a broader technology

growing category of sulphate-free

portfolio with expanded global

32

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

Vantage Specialty Chemicals – kim@lipo.co.za

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS

Rethink how you formulate

skin care products There is a shift in consumers’ expectations when it comes to cosmetics.

Brands need to reconsider their strategies for new product development to meet current market demands, such as clean beauty and immediate gratification.

25% of German consumers believe natural personal care products are better for the environment

45% of women from China, who use facial skin care products, plan to increase their usage of products formulated with plant based or herbal ingredients to improve their skin

50% of UK consumers look for products with natural ingredients when making skin care purchases

I

n the US, Nielsen reported skin care sales have only grown by two percent, while makeup enjoyed double digit growth

blurring and

over the past two years. What’s more

mattifying

interesting is the small amount of growth in

properties for skin

skin care sales actually came from makeup

care and makeup

inspired formulations, while traditional anti-

applications. These natural

ageing treatments stagnated.

fibres are sourced from hemp

This movement may reflect a new mindset for skin care consumers. While

with outstanding traceability.

Natpur Fiber HS 50 and Natpur

anti-ageing benefits are still highly sought

Fiber HS 100 (INCI: Cellulose (and)

after, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies

Pectin (and) Aqua (and) Hydrolysed

say consumers have a new appetite for

Vegetable Protein) are hemp shives

claims such as ‘healthier looking skin’,

sourced mainly from the historical

‘glowing complexion’ and ‘pro-aging’.

Champagne and Bourgogne regions,

This shift reflects the overall positive

in France.

lifestyles and habits of consumers.

The other main drawback of traditional

The fibres can be used in various applications, including skin care,

skin care is its delayed efficacy, which

makeup, lipstick, mascara and hair care

doesn’t sit well with millennials who want

products. They offer good coverage,

instant gratification. New cosmetics

instant mattifying and blurring effects

formulations need to reflect this new

thanks to their high water and oil

paradigm, so brands will have to rethink

absorption. They smooth the appearance

how they approach skin care.

of fine lines and densify lashes and hair.

Cross-over products

They are also easily dispersible and light in colour.

Another sea of change in skin care is the

When compared with Covabead LH

clean beauty revolution. Beauty products

170, the most absorbent Sensient bead,

have become an extension of healthcare

Natpur Fiber HS 50 and Natpur Fiber

with more and more consumers wanting

HS 100 absorbed more macadamia oil

to know what’s in their products and why,

and water during clinical studies. Their

as they’re looking to make better choices

sweat absorption properties were also

about what they put on their skin.

significantly higher than Covabead LH 170.

A successful strategy to meet both the clean beauty and immediate gratification demands of the market, is to create crossover products that borrow from instant effects of makeup combined with the

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies has created a series of formulations to showcase its range of Natpur Fibers.

These include a reconstructing fibre foundation; no filter face primer, with options of light and dark skin tones;

visible, long term effects of

sunflower volume mascara; and a pump

skin care. Not forgetting, all or

my hair dry shampoo. The formulations

most of the ingredients in your

and samples of Natpur Fibers are

formulation should be natural,

available on request from the South

or nature inspired, ethically

African office. •

sourced and traceable.

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies’ Natpur Fiber range of hemp derived fibres will help you tick all the boxes thanks to their exceptional

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – www.sensient-cosmetics.com

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

33

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS

Thicken oil, naturally!

Cold process emulsifiers offer a number of benefits. They help formulators create more sustainable formulations thanks to their reduced energy consumption without having to compromise on product performance.

S

ucragel is a cold process

Formulation guide: Men’s clay mask

emulsifier from Alchemy Ingredients. The emulsifier is used for oil in water emulsions

and it works as an oil thickener. It comes

Phase A

in liquid form making it easy to use. Oily gels formed with Sucragel will instantly

B

emulsify on contact with water.

The emulsifier is based on sugar

C

chemistry developed by Alchemy Ingredients. It holds oil in place in a

Trade name

INCI

Sucragel XL

Glycerine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate, Sucrose Stearate

% w/w 20.0

Labrafac CC

Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides

60.0

Fancor Abyssinian Oil

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil

11.5

‘Teamwork’ Fragrance

Parfum

Pink Clay

Kaolinite

5.0

Volcanic sand exfoliator 300

Volcanic Sand

3.0.

0.5

This clay mask detoxifies and cleanses men’s skin with gentle exfoliation

stable micro-emulsion and when water is added, the mix changes into a cream or a light lotion, offering countless possibilities.

Alchemy Ingredients’ priority is to create innovative solutions for its customers, providing full technical support through a

DID YOU KNOW?

comprehensive website and training. Its range of 100 percent natural

Sucragel can be used to ingredients has been disperse up to five percent developed to provide essential oils or fragrance. an easy and effective Slowly stir the fragrance into the way to thicken oil or Sucragel using a propeller stirrer. water-based systems.

The mixture should thicken Carst & Walker is the into a gel/paste, which will easily disperse into your South African agent for aqueous base.

Alchemy Ingredients.

On trend and in demand The Ecocert and Cosmos approved Sucra range has been designed in response to market demands.

There are five varieties of Sucragel available: CF; AP V2; XL; AOF and AOF

It can be used as an emulsifier to form fine, sprayable emulsions that can emulsify a high level of oil.

Sucragel can also be used in lotions designed for wet wipe applications. To create a wet wipe lotion, simply dilute the Sucragel with water, add a small amount

To create a wet wipe lotion, simply dilute the Sucragel with water, add a small amount of a stabiliser and preserve

BIO. The latter is certified 92 percent organic and 100 percent natural,

of a stabiliser and preserve. Alternatively,

according to the Cosmos standard.

if you want additional oils in the solution,

Sucragel allows the formulator to

stir these into the Sucragel and then

make stable transparent gels with

dilute with water. Sucragel offers the

a high (over 90%) proportion of oil.

additional benefit of allowing the lotion

Most types of oil can be used with the

to be shipped as a ‘concentrate’, to be

ingredient, such as vegetable oils,

used when needed. •

esters, silicones and any non-polar material should be compatible.

Sucragel forms viscoelastic gels that are easy to pick up and have the added property of turning to milk when water is added.

34

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

Alchemy Ingredients – www.alchemy-ingredients.com Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za

extreme styles that hold — aquastyle 300 n ™

styling polymer

AquaStyle™ 300 N multifunctional fixative and styling polymer is the ideal solution to create durable styles that last all day. This versatile film former can be applied to wet or dry hair to create extreme styling effects while protecting your hair from the elements. Its film properties help deliver a brilliant and alluring shine and control frizz on hair while creating a barrier to shield hair against pollution and the effects of urban living. ashland.com/aquastyle

Value through expertise ® Registered trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries ™ Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries ©2017, Ashland PHC18-108

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS

100% natural and effective formulations are possible!

The thought of transitioning your brand to a more natural formulation or using more natural ingredients in new product development can be seem overwhelming. Yet it doesn’t have to be, thank to Greentech, which offer key actives and extracts for 100 percent natural and effective formulations.

N

ature is a source of molecules of

medicine. It recreates the volume and the

on the key biological targets of senescence,

interest for the cosmetics industry.

relief of a young skin through a double youth

it boosts the cutaneous architecture

Plants and microorganisms

effect. Reverskin anchors the epidermis in

and maintains skin beauty, even after 60

synthesise metabolites to defend

the dermis and protects the fibrous network

years of age. Hebelys was developed in

against environmental aggressors and

of the skin’s matrix. Restructured, skin

collaboration with Deinove sourced from

survive in hostile habitats. The R&D team

appears more elastic, suppler and firmer.

Sphingomonas hydrophobicum. This

at Greentech is inspired by these defense

Cutaneous relief is re-organised, wrinkles

microorganism has the capability to utilise

mechanisms and adapts them to the

and fine lines are smoothed.

a wide range of organic compounds and to

mechanisms of the skin. The company

grow and survive in a stressful environment.

extracts and concentrates these assets

A 360° Photoprotector

Hebelys embraces the beauty of maturity,

from plants, algae, micro-algae or

Soliberine is sourced from Buddleja officinalis

targeting senescent cells and it has a

microorganisms to create natural actives.

flowers, or the butterflybush, which grows in

psychological benefit.

an area of the sacred mountains in Sichuan

Reverse visible signs of ageing

province where the average altitude is

The beauty of fermentation

Reverskin is a powerful cellular booster. The

between 400 to 580m. Selected for its

Thanks to its multidisciplinary capacity,

active ingredient is ultra-concentrated in

exceptional richness in phenylpropanoids,

the Greentech Group uses fermentation

Phytoecdysterols, extracted from Microsorum

the purified fraction of flowers is highly

to potentiate the properties of nature.

grossum, one of the most frequently used

concentrated in verbascoside and

Fermentation has several advantages:

fern species in Polynesian traditional

echinacoside. Soliberine acts against all

• concentration of active compounds

The fermentation process increases the concentration of AHAs expressed in lactic acid by 38 percent 36

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

damages induced by solar rays, including blue light, thanks to a dual power of protection and stimulation.

The multifunctional active preserves the youthful appearance of the skin, preventing inflammation, redness and

(AHAs and phenolic compounds) • biotransformation of the components into active molecules of interest • obtaining of new biological and functional properties (exfoliator, moisturiser and antioxidant)

premature ageing.

• increased bioavailability of compounds.

Positive ageing starts now

been offering highly active and innovative

Hebelys is linked to the concept of well-

fermented extracts under the tradename,

ageing by sublimating the skin. By acting

Ferment’Actives. These extracts and other

For more than five years, Greentech has

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS natural actives from Greentech are available

acid by 38 percent, such as those present in

especially those known to be irritating,

in South Africa from Natchem.

the raspberry for example.

thanks to a solution proposed by Greentech.

Greentech uses this process to improve

The solution is Aquasiloils. These are water soluble oils based on an innovative alliance

especially in fruits, which are known for

Functionals to ease formulation challenges

their regenerating properties. For example,

At this stage it’s not completely possible

triglycerides of natural fatty acids derived

the fermentation process increases the

to eliminate chemical surfactants from

from inca inchi, argan or sweet almond oils.

concentration of AHAs expressed in lactic

formulations. However, they can be limited,

the concentration of AHAs, found

between lysine, essential amino acid and

The water soluble oils have biological and technical benefits shown in Figure 1.

Figure 1: Interface tension of Aquasiloils measured with a Tracker automated drop tensiometer, showing the cleansing properties of the water soluble oils

When formulated in a micellar lotion, the oils offer cleansing and foaming benefits while preserving the skin by improving moisturisation.

Buyer’sguide

Formulators can also decrease surfactant

load in a formulation with Greensofts

three in one actives. These simultaneously

THE

self-emulsifying fats for the oil phase and

biological activity boosters are extremely

sensorial, soft and silky to touch. Nutritional by essence, they provide the biological activities of their base vegetable oils, combined with the effectiveness of

2017/2018

active molecules. •

Greentech – www.greentech.fr Natchem – www.natchem.co.za

THE

Buyer’sguide 2018/2019

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry

Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1

2018/05/07 3:09 PM

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

37

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS

The beauty of moringa changes farmers’ lives

The Moringa Cooperative project is set to benefit 60 farmers from the Blouberg municipality in Limpopo. It is aimed at creating jobs, alleviating poverty and contributing towards the socioeconomic development of local communities.

The power of uplifting communities

Africa of the Employment for Sustainable

Gregory Petersen, senior commercial

explains: ‘It is important from the

manager ESD, De Beers Consolidated

perspective GIZ that knowledge transfer

Mines, comments: ‘We are pleased to

occurs within the community. Over the

partner in this project because of the

course of the project, we will be re-

difference it is going to make to people in

enforcing this with multiple trainings,

our host communities, through capacity

workshops and mentorship support.’

Development in Africa Programme,

building and job creation. We are also looking forward to the future opportunities

A good plan for the future

of the project, such as shared learnings

The infrastructural phase of the project

and strategic partnerships.’

is currently underway, financed by the IDC, Old Mutual, De Beers Group and

Will Coetsee, MD, Botanica Natural Products, adds: ‘We designed this project to source better quality raw materials, which

DID YOU KNOW?

supported by Botanica Natural Products, to provide the participating farms with

The project aims to initially create 100 jobs for every 20 to our clients locally and hectares of Moringa trees globally. To date, we planted, with the intention to have imported Moringa grow in scale, potentially seeds and leaves without creating a total 300 jobs having full traceability of the by 2020. we can process and sell

One of the famers from the Blouberg municipality who will benefit from the project

products we process. Through the success of this project, we will be

fencing, soil preparation and effective irrigation systems.

The first set of Moringa trees are expected to be planted

by March 2019.

‘Old Mutual is an

organisation that is driven on the mutually beneficial shared

able to have high quality, fully traceable

value principle of operating as a

he project is a strategic

ingredients to process and sell. This is

responsible business and ensuring

collaborative partnership

also an opportunity for us to attract and

that our interventions are sustainable,

between the De Beers Group,

retain highly talented individuals from

impactful and beneficial to all involved.

Botanica Natural Products, the GIZ

surrounding communities. Employment

We are delighted to play our part in this

(Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale

opportunities in our communities are

collaborative and exciting venture with

Zusammenarbeit, which implements

limited. By creating a successful and

our partners and look forward to once

projects on behalf of the German Federal

lucrative supply chain, Botanica will

again demonstrating how through

Ministry of Economic Cooperation and

also be able to attract and retain better

partnerships, collaboration and the

Development), Old Mutual Limited and

equipped and qualified personnel.’

benefit of economies of scale can enable

T

the Industrial Development Corporation

Critical to the project is not just the

us all to Do Great Things Every Day,’ says

(IDC). Each of the partners is contributing

provision of financial or infrastructural

Dianne Richards, enterprise development

towards sustainable development support,

support but also the empowerment of

manager at Old Mutual Foundation.

infrastructure or funding.

the outgrowers through non-financial

Stephen Nel, senior local economic

support programmes. These include

development manager for IDC,

was established in November 2018. It is

a capacity building programme

comments: ‘The IDC is very excited local

made up of three cooperatives, each

facilitated by GIZ, as well as ‘train the

entrepreneurs now have the opportunity

consisting of 20 outgrowers, located within

trainer’ workshops hosted within local

to create job opportunities in their

three local traditional areas in Alldays,

communities. These workshops aim to

communities. This will most certainly lead

Blouberg. The participating cooperatives

equip the outgrowers with the necessary

to the social and economic upliftment of

are contracted to grow Moringa trees and

business development skills, acumen

their respective communities. Hopefully

supply the leaves and seeds to Botanica

and agricultural training required. The

the partnerships formed between

Natural Products, which produces

cooperatives will also be assigned a

Botanica, GIZ, De Beers and Old Mutual

organically certified and fairly traded

mentor from De Beers, who will coach

will create a model we can roll out in

active ingredients for cosmetics and

them on business and financial matters.

future to many other communities in need

A ground-breaking agricultural project

nutraceutical producers.

38

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

Gavin Watson, project lead South

of such interventions.’ •

SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS

Use W/Si emulsifier technology to your advantage Emulsions form the back bone of most cosmetics, from lotions and foundations to conditioners and cleansers. Silicone emulsifiers, such as Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone have a long history of use in the personal care industry.

S

ilicone emulsifiers are mainly

is broken. This preserves their benefit(s)

Many formulators attempt to achieve a

used to manufacture water-in-

prior to use.

stable emulsion by reducing the particle

silicone (W/Si) emulsions with low HLBs. These silicone emulsifiers

Utilising W/Si emulsifiers for skin care

size of their formulation and increasing

applications is advantageous for all

the mixing speed in the lab during

were critical in the development of

parties involved:

development. While this approach may

the first clear antiperspirant gels and

1. the supplier of the emulsifier gets to sell

achieve a stable sample emulsion, during

are now widely utilised in beauty care

the product

applications, including colour cosmetics,

full scale production, such high mixing

2. the manufacturer designs a cost-

speeds are not achievable, resulting in an

skin and sun care. They’re also used in

effective product because a

antiperspirants and deodorants.

formulation can contain between 50 to

Due to regulatory concerns,

82 percent aqueous phase, minimising

a lab, during scale-up and production, is to

formulation cost

utilise a mixer tip speed of 274m per minute.

formulators have chosen to reduce the use of cyclopentasiloxane in product

3. consumers with dry skin concerns have

unstable broken emulsion being produced.

A simple mixing guideline, achievable in

This standardises the amount of energy

design. This has driven ingredients

access to a luxurious end product to

at every step of the scale-up process and

suppliers to develop Dimethicone (and)

address their primary skin concern.

provides a greater chance of success in the

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone – Andisil SP

Because the aqueous phase is the

518 and Andisil SP 518C. The original line

internal phase of the emulsion,

development process.

of Andisil specialty silicone products are

the consumer does not experience a

be evaluated in several ways. The most

manufactured by AB Specialty Silicones

cooling effect after applying

common methods include:

in the US and distributed locally by Afrisil.

the product.

• a minimum of five cycles of freezing

The stability of a W/Si emulsion can

and thawing

A basic guide to formulating a thick, hydrating skin cream:

• room temperature stability for 120 days

Water Phase

Silicone Phase

• heat stability, though this method varies

DI Water – 40 wt. % Glycerine – 40 wt. %

Andisil SP 518 – 10 wt. % Cyclopentasiloxane – 10 wt. %

or longer greatly from customer to customer, 40 degrees Celsius at 90 days is a good starting point • centrifugation, though sample size

Exceptional benefits

Stability guaranteed

Clear formulations can be achieved by

Creating stable emulsions requires foresight

matching the refractive index of the two

to produce a stable product when scaling

phases within a range of 0.0003 or less. This process has been achieved in production size quantities, both in

up sample formulations to full size production quantities. A silicone emulsifier is the enabling technology for producing

and RPM conditions vary by customer and equipment • finger rub test whereby a small sample of the final product is rubbed on a dark countertop and observed for water droplets breaking out of the final emulsion.

W/Si emulsifiers can be used in a wide

batch and continuous

a stable W/Si emulsion

variety of personal care applications. They

process manufacturing

and not just an aesthetics

are a valuable tool to formulators who

facilities. Water sensitive

additive. The viscosity of the

design innovative products for today’s

actives can also be

final commercial product

savvy consumers. •

incorporated into the silicone

is determined by the

phase during processing.

percentage of aqueous

These actives are released onto

phase compared to the

the skin during application

anhydrous phase.

AB Specialty Silicones – www.andisil.com Afrisil – karin@afrisil.com

when the emulsion

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

39

INDUSTRY TALK

Private label surges ahead

South African shoppers are savvier than ever; they seek value from retailers and are willing to put in the extra effort to get what they want at the right price. According to Nielsen, private label sales are increasing as a result.

S

ales of private label products

trust consumers have in private label

growth driver in 2018 was the middle

in South Africa now equate to

products and their willingness to use

LSMs, which contributed approximately

R49.3 billion annually. The segment

them in categories previously reserved

30 percent of sales.

commands a healthy 21.1 percent

for trusted brand names, which include

Paterson explains: ‘Compared to

share of the South African retail sector,

diapers and pet food categories,’ he

previous years, when trusted brands

up from 20 percent in 2017 and ahead of

adds.

were preferred and making the

branded product growth in the country.

switch was not an option, lower LSMs

These insights are taken from the 2018

Growth drivers

have shown they’re now willing to try

Nielsen report on State of Private Label in

The majority of consumers say they buy

private label products within certain

South Africa, published in December.

private label products because they

staple categories.’

Nielsen’s research on the private label

are cheaper. Looking at the deeper

This is because lower LSMs don’t

segment covered 155 categories, within

dynamics within the category and the

have as much access to private

eight supergroups and across a range of

reasons for its healthy performance,

label products as the majority of their

leading local retail chains and groups in

the 2018 Nielsen Shopper Trends

shopping is done within traditional

South Africa.

report found 77 percent of shoppers compare the prices of store

77 percent of shoppers compare the prices of store brands with leading branded goods ‘Recent years have shown an upward trend in the category, with improving

brands with leading branded goods.

The value for money proposition of private label is also seen to be a major popularity factor. The quality of products is perceived to be improving and the number of people

trade outlets. However, some retailers have expanded to previously

DID YOU KNOW?

underserved areas, bringing private labels to more

Approximately 20 percent of Clicks’ product range is made up of private and confined label goods. These are used strategically to recruit new shoppers and to provide a point of differentiation in competitive categories, such as baby and supplements. Source: www.

recommending them

tradeintelligence.co.za

is increasing.

A total of 55 percent of private label

South Africans, resulting in a shift in perceptions and more willingness to try private label brands.

With South Africa poised to benefit from a growing middle class,

urbanisation and increasing modern trade access, the

segment will continue to carve out a

consumer perceptions around the quality

product sales originate from South

healthy share of retail sales within the

and value of private label products. This is

African consumers LSM 7-10. Yet the

next five years. This is off the back of

driven by a greater focus from retailers to develop value for money offerings, resulting

good growth over the past three years.

‘Overall, there is a clear focus from

in increased innovation and differentiation

retailers to up private label’s share of

within this space,’ comments Gareth

their sales. This includes a heightened

Paterson, Nielsen South Africa’s retail lead.

focus on developing premium and

Consumers’ perceptions of private label

niche private label products with

have improved, contributing to an increase

enhanced labelling, which bodes well

in their willingness to try these products

for the rapid evolution of this sector,’

across multiple categories.

Paterson concludes. •

‘We are seeing previously smaller supergroups in the segment, such as baby care, personal care and confectionary, achieving double digit growth – well ahead of branded product growth. This shows the

40

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

Nielsen South Africa – www.nielsen.com/za

Precision Global’s new Tornado 35mm twist lock actuator

SUN CARE

New valve and actuator to spray away sunburn The sun care category is scorching hot – which is good news both for consumers and manufacturers.

Thanks to the innovative solutions available from suppliers to the category, there are endless options of products and formats available to meet consumers’ various needs, from aerosols and sprayable mists to roll on sunscreens.

P

recision Global has recently launched a new Tornado 35mm twist lock actuator, suitable for use in sun care, cosmetics, hair and personal care applications. The actuator has a short skirt and is cup fitting, making it suitable for use on any size can.

A variety of standard spray inserts are available to suit numerous applications and colour combinations can be customised to match brand requirements.

New up/down valve The company also offers a valve suitable for dispensing in any position.

Precision Global’s valve adds value to any application that requires the can to be held upside down or sideways. This is particularly beneficial for sun care applications or insect repellent to overcome the frustration of trying to apply a spray on product on the lower legs, feet or ankles.

The PV 360° valve (also known as the up/down valve) sprays reliably regardless of the can’s position. Used upright or upside down, the valve

Precision Valve SA (PTY) Ltd phone: +27 12 541 3340 email: teresa.pereira@precisionglobal.com

assures correct function and constant spray quality.

The up/down valve can be filled with existing filling equipment, no modifications or adaptations are required on the filling line.

It behaves in exactly the same way as a Super 90 valve. The propellant/ product ratio remains constant during use, irrespective of the position of the can. Another benefit of this valve is it pairs well with low propellant level products and especially compressed gas systems, such as CO² and N².

The new 35mm twist lock actuator and PV 360° valve are available locally from Precision Valve South Africa. •

Precision Global – www.precisionglobal.com

www.precisionglobal.com

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

41

SUN CARE

Sun protection and consumer safety

With its fast rising incident rate, skin cancer is one of the most common cancers worldwide. As a result, sunscreens have become essential personal care ingredients, formulated in everything from traditional sun protection and daily skin care to hair care, colour cosmetics and bath and shower products. By Anina van der Walt, CTFA’s head of regulatory affairs and policy analysis

I

n the context of the South African climate, sun protection is vital.

Sunscreen application is the main strategy used to prevent sunburn and

harmful skin conditions caused by the UV-A and UV-B exposure. There is sufficient evidence to show overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the main and preventable cause of skin cancers. South Africa has the second highest skin cancer incidence rate in the world. Cancer of the skin is also ranked among the top 10 cancers, which contribute significantly to morbidity in our country. Some of the highest reported cases of melanoma in the world can be traced back to South Africa (Cancer Treat Rev. 2011;37 (6):465–475).

In regulatory terms, sun protection products are regarded as ‘high risk’ products. Consumers and brand owners

Recognised ISO & SANS standards • SANS 1557 sunscreen products • in vivo determination of the SPF

(ISO 24444)

• in vivo determination of sunscreen UVA protection (ISO 24442) • water resistance – water immersion procedure (ISO 16217) • determination of the percentage of water resistance (ISO 18861) • determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro (ISO/

care products adhere to the strictest guidelines. In the industry’s current selfregulated environment, brand owners and manufacturers should be ethical at all times and diligently adhere to the applicable guidelines and standards when claiming UV protection. The responsibility and liability of placing a sun protection product on the South African market is assigned to the Responsible Person (RP). The RP should safeguard the consumer by recognising the gravity of their responsibility when it comes to placing a sun protection product on the market. •

SANS 24443)

• in vitro determination of SPF (ISO 23675) • measurement of the sunscreen efficacy by diffuse reflectance (ISO 23698)

COMPLIANCE IS A MUST

must bear this in mind to understand APART FROM THE draft regulations, which are due for

Brand owners should be ethical at all times and diligently adhere to the applicable guidelines and standards when claiming UV protection

December 2017 (Government Gazette No.

promulgation, formulators and R&D scientists need

10790, Vol 630 (41351)). Regulation 7(1)

to take countless standards into consideration when

Product Composition, states: ‘no person

developing sun care products.

may manufacture or import or distribute

In addition to standard test methods, to ensure

for sale any cosmetic containing – (e) a

consumer safety, sunscreen products should comply

UV Filter other than those listed in Annex

with the Cosmetic Toiletry & Fragrance Association

V and/or UV Filters that are listed there,

(CTFA) Bridging-the-Gap Compendium, Annex VI: List

but not used according to the conditions

of UV Filters Allowed in Cosmetic Products.

of use and with warnings printed on the label as laid down in the said Annex’.

Safety first

RP’s also need to ensure compliance to other relevant statutory requirements, such as SANS 98 (ingredient labelling of cosmetic products), SANS 1937 (cosmetics products – quantity and marking) and

It is imperative that local standards and

SANS 289 (labelling requirements for pre-packaged

impending regulations are updated and

products and general requirements for the sale of

why a greater degree of consideration of

aligned with international guidelines and

goods subject to legal metrology control).

consumer safety and product efficacy are

scientifically validated safety concerns,

required during product design and in

to ensure products produced in South

standards and guidelines relating to ingredients in

terms of claim substantiation.

Africa are safe for human use.

cosmetics, safety data, permitted application and

Draft regulations in the South African

Due to the sunny South African climate,

International standards such as ISO, local SANS

applicable ingredient usage etc. are living documents,

Foodstuffs, Cosmetics and Disinfectants

SABS, the impending regulator – the

which are constantly being reworked/updated as new

act, 1972 (Act no. 54 of 1972), relating

National Department of Health – and

information is made available by accredited scientific

to the labelling, advertising, and

the industry association, the CTFA are

research teams. These reviews and updates are based

composition of cosmetics (R. 1469) were

aware of the significance associated

on new technology and public information.

published for industry comment on 22

with compliance. This is to ensure sun

42

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

SUN CARE

Coral friendly sunscreens

I

n May 2018, social media buzzed

that is responsible for nutrient release,

with the news of Hawaii being the

food chain coordination and protecting

first US state to ban the sale of

coastlines from storms and wave damage.

• cream come true SPF70 W/O mineral

and octinoxate. The decision was based

Reducing the options

• sport sunscreen SPF70 (JZ12-207B)

on the coral bleaching phenomenon.

According to Hallstar, the recent mandate

• beach sunscreen spray SPF70 (JZ12-167B)

Coral bleaching occurs when abnormal

from the US State of Hawaii for oxybenzone-

• ultra-high SPF100 spray (JZ12-170)

environmental conditions cause coral to

free and octinoxate-free sunscreens limits

expel tiny photosynthetic algae, called

the UV filters available to formulators,

available locally from Millchem, Hallstar’s

zooxanthellae. According to the ARC

particularly for high SPF products. Other

agent in South Africa. The formulations

Centre of Excellence, the loss of colourful

countries have already adopted similar

are all in vivo tested for SPF and 80

algae causes coral to turn white or

regulations and the speciality chemicals

minute water resistance and they have

‘bleach’. The condition is reversible and

company expects more will follow.

passed three month shelf stability. More

sunscreens containing oxybenzone

bleached coral can recover, but only if the

• Broad Spectrum SPF50 O/W sunscreen lotion (JZ9-89) sunscreen (JZ12-227B)

Thanks to Hallstar’s years of experience

The full range of formulation guides are

importantly, these formulations do not

temperature drops and zooxanthellae

in creating globally compliant formulations

contain octinoxate or oxybenzone. Instead,

are able to recolonise them, otherwise it

with photostabilisers that optimise filter

photostabilisers HallBrite BHB, SolaStay S1,

may die.

performance compliant, the company has

Polycrylene and HallBrite PSF are used the

produced a range of coral friendly sun

while the HallBrite range of TiO2 and ZNO

the most common sunscreen ingredients

care formulations. These include:

dispersions are used. •

used worldwide. Studies have shown even

• light and non-greasy sunscreen cream

Oxybenzone and octinoxate are two of

the smallest amount of oxybenzone can

SPF30 (JZ11-138B)

cause coral to bleach rapidly – eliminating

• anti-sand sunscreen gel SPF50 (JZ12-20B)

an essential part of the marine ecosystem

• clog-free zinc spray SPF50 (JZ12-226)

Hallstar – www.hallstar.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

43

PACKAGING INNOVATION & DESIGN

Use captivating design to strengthen your brand Beauty brands, regardless of their positioning, have a common goal when it comes to packaging design – to ‘wow’ consumers. Secondary packaging is usually the first part of a product seen or touched by consumers, making it a critical part of the brand experience.

We have extended our global packaging services expertise

was named the winner in Metsä Board’s Better with Less – Design Challenge in 2018. Numminen joins Metsä Board from the packaging design team at Pa-Hu Oy, a manufacturer of corrugated board and packaging solutions.

Ilkka Harju, packaging services director for the EMEA region, comments: ‘We are pleased to have extended our global packaging services expertise with the appointments of Marko and Iiro. Both

Ilkka Harju, Iiro Numminen and Marko Leiviskä

T

o create lighter, more

mills. This experience has given

are highly experienced designers with

him a unique perspective on

extensive knowledge of the requirements

how packaging can strengthen

for sustainable, efficient and high impact

a brand. This role at Metsä Board

branding and packaging.’

will allow Leiviskä to make the

environmentally friendly and

most of his technical skills in design and

Eco-barrier paperboard

efficient packaging through

brand strategy. Leiviskä joins Metsä Board

The new eco-barrier paperboard, Metsä

collaborative projects with

from OneMusketeer Oy, where he worked

Board Pro FSB EB1, has achieved the

as an entrepreneur and head of design.

industrial compostability certification,

its customers, Metsä Board operates packaging service teams in three

Iiro Numminen, Metsä Board’s new

which complys with DIN EN 13432 and

continents. Its packaging design teams

structural packaging designer, has

ASTM D6400 standards. The certification

in Europe, the Americas and AsiaPacific

worked as a structural designer for

is issued by DIN Certco and the testing

have been strengthened with new design

almost eight years. He has a deep

was carried out by ISEGA Laboratories.

expertise, following the appointments of

knowledge of production methods

Marko Leiviskä and Iiro Numminen.

related to the conversion of paperboard

director at Metsä Board, comments

Katja Tuomola, business development

as well as digital tools. Numminen

on the significance of the certification:

graphic packaging designer, has a

constantly seeks new and innovative

‘Brand owners are looking for new,

strong global background working for

ways to use the fibre based materials. His

more ecological solutions made of

brand owners, converters and board

latest innovation ‘Stretching Inner Part’

renewable, non-plastic materials, which

Marko Leiviskä, Metsä Board’s new

44

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

PACKAGING INNOVATION & DESIGN can be composted and recycled. This external certification gives them choice when it comes to packaging materials that truly comply with their disposal requirements.’

The DIN EN 13432 standard refers to Requirements for Packaging Recoverable through Composting and Biodegradation. US certification ASTM D 6400-12 covers the Standard Specification for Labelling of Plastics Designed to be Aerobically Composted in Municipal or Industrial Facilities.

The non-plastic special barrier treatment developed for Metsä Board Pro FSB EB1 improves the grease resistance of the board. This can be enhanced cost-efficiently during the converting stage with the addition of just one layer of varnish.

No optical brighteners or fluorochemicals are used in the production of Metsä Board Pro FSB EB1. It is available in basis weights of 195 to 320g/m2 and can be recycled with paper and board recycling schemes.

Metsä Board’s products and solutions are available locally from Paperforce. •

Metsä Board – www.metsaboard.com Paperforce – roy@paperforce.co.za

The new eco-barrier paperboard, Metsä Board Pro FSB EB1 is suitable for cosmetics, pharma and food packaging

Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz

Sensetek.indd 1

2017/03/02 11:50 AM

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

45

PRESERVATIVES

Chem Systems presents the TroyCare LSB range of alternative preservation systems, addressing the market demand for effective, safer and greener options of antimicrobial protection.

These systems are also easy to formulate with and cost effective. By Jacques Strydom

A natural choice for

F

ormulators are faced with immense

differ range from natural and synthetic sourcing, to

challenges both from a regulatory perspective

efficacy, cost and effective pH ranges.

and changing market trends. The EU (ASEAN) Positive List (Annex V) contains 59

ChemSystems’ technology partner, Troy is at the forefront of innovation in the personal care and

preservatives, of which only a few are not under

cosmetics industry. The company has invested in

scrutiny and subject to review. The list of options for

R&D to identify the best performing organic acids,

formulators to choose from is slowly diminishing.

with the least amount of compromises, all while

Consumers are also more aware of the active

staying true to the scope of natural and nature

ingredients in their personal care products,

identical substances. With its R&D, Troy’s focus was

driving the market towards preservative-free and

to optimise three main shortcomings: effective pH

green products. The outcome of these trends

range; efficacy range; and cost.

is an increasing need for alternative means of

Formulators who have worked with organic

preservation, including fragrances and emollients

acids or natural preservation will know the ceiling

with efficacy boosting properties as a secondary

of effective pH range is on the lower side of the

benefit. Unfortunately, these materials struggle to

scale, due to the change in the molecule’s level of

hold up against classic preservatives in terms of cost,

dissociation over a pH range.

efficacy and ease of use.

Newly registered preservatives are very rare, in

Troy also addressed the limited efficacy scope of organic acids, creating broad spectrum blends

fact only two new preservatives have been added to

proven to protect a product against bacteria and

Europe’s Annex V in the last 15 years and few, if any,

fungi. The company has also created solutions

are expected in the near future.

that don’t pose a significant cost increase to the formulator, compared to existing preservatives.

New in alternatives

Thanks to extensive evaluation and R&D

The market has seen some fascinating

processes, Troy has developed a unique range of

developments in alternative preservation systems in

natural and sustainable organic acid preservation

the last five to 10 years, yet these developments often

systems, suitable for the formulations of tomorrow.

come with a level of compromise. Although natural

The TroyCare LSB family of organic acid based

and nature identical substances have gained

preservatives addresses growing regulatory

popularity due to their perceived green status,

pressures and ever-changing market demands,

the drawbacks have been significant. These

making it a natural choice for antimicrobial

include cost, high usage levels, limited micro-

protection. These next generation solutions offer the

efficacy and difficulty of use. Some consumers are

formulator an effective broad spectrum product,

willing to absorb the cost for the sake of a more

with more natural, milder and safer attributes,

sustainable lifestyle, but the majority of the market

that’s easy to use. For the consumer, a simple,

find it hard to justify the cost.

customer-friendly INCI listing brings reassurance,

Not all alternative or natural preservatives share

emphasised by its origin from natural or nature

these limitations. One class of substances known

identical sources. This expanding range of products

as organic acids are not only perceived as natural

rests on the foundation of levulinic, sorbic and

and safer, they are also more cost-effective options

benzoic acids, in some cases accompanied by

for preservation.

additional components that extend the benefits of

Organic acids have a long history of use in food preservation, especially in Europe, where they are used at twice the rate compared to the rest of the world. Contrary to most common preservatives, organic acids face fewer restrictions by any regulatory body on a global scale. Many are compliant with Cosmos natural certification, one of the highest regarded standards in the market.

Natural and sustainable While using organic acids for preservation sounds attractive, the idea isn’t without its challenges.

Organic acids exist in a wide variety, each with its own benefits and drawbacks. The properties that

46

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

Figure 1: LSB1 used at 0.4 percent in a pH 5.5 wash-off application

PRESERVATIVES

antimicrobial protection the maximum effective pH range tailored to

resulting in much lower formulation costs,

and 3 illustrate the exceptional ability of

the formulator’s needs.

compared to other natural preservatives.

TroyCare LSB2 and LSB3 to provide broad

Test results clearly depict the versatility

spectrum protection in systems with pH

Perceivable performance

of the LSB range, by illustrating its strong

TroyCare LSB is effective at low

efficacy, extensive compatibility and its

concentrations, especially compared

effectiveness at higher pH levels. Figure 1

to other natural preservatives. The LSB

demonstrates how TroyCare LSB1 provides

products have been seen to protect various

excellent protection in a shampoo

formulations at levels as low as 0.4 percent,

formulation at a pH of 5.5, while Figures 2

Figure 2: LSB2 used at 0.8 percent in a pH 6.5 leave-on application

levels up to 6.5. •

ChemSystems –

jacques.strydom@chemsystems.co.za

TroyCare – www.troycare.com

Figure 3: LSB3 used at 0.4 percent in a pH 6.5 baby care application

ABOUT Jacques Strydom obtained a degree in chemical engineering at the University of Stellenbosch in 2014. In 2016, he started his career in the industry as R&D manager at a manufacturing company in Cape Town, formulating for retailers like Woolworths and PEP Stores. Strydom recently joined ChemSystems’ consumer specialities team as technical manager for personal care and home care.

LAUNCH

ChemSystems microbiological testing lab, in partnership with Troy Corporation

The Gold Standard for Performance

Offering: · Microbiological screening · Preservative Selection and

· · · ·

Efficacy Tests (PET) Microbial Identification Plant Hygiene Audits Formulation and Analytical Assistance Global Regulatory Support

Contact: jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

47

PRESERVATIVES

Verdict:Not Guilty!

Despite the paraben free trend, Botanichem’s Robyn Brown says parabens are still the ‘go to’. She shares her option and proof that confirms parabens are still the safest and best preservatives to use.

A

they appear do this weakly and as a result,

panel discussed concerns about the

a significant risk.

bioaccumulation potential of parabens

Concerns surrounding parabens first

noting, as lipid-soluble chemicals,

surfaced in 2004 when a report was

parabens may theoretically distribute

published referring to the concentration of

to tissues despite metabolism. Recent

parabens in human breast tumours. The

studies have demonstrated the presence

report suggested parabens in underarm

of parabens in human tissue, but there

deodorants and antiperspirants could

is no data showing parabens are

be absorbed into the skin and migrate to

metabolised to 4-hydroxybenzoic acid,

breast tissue.

which is considered safe under typical

The study was widely criticised by the scientific community due to the

use conditions.

The key take out of this latest research is

fter years of being wrongfully

methodology used and how the conclusions

evidence shows parabens are safe for use

accused of being unsafe,

were reached. The problem with the study

at prescribed and current usage levels.

parabens have been cleared for

was no comparative analysis was carried

The reality is, damage has been done and

use by the Cosmetic Ingredient

Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The panel is made up of world-renowned dermatologists, toxicologists, chemists, consumer protection advocates and public health experts.

In its latest review in September 2018, relating to the issue of whether parabens are safe for human use issued, the panel concluded there were 20 parabens,

Evidence shows parabens are safe for use at prescribed and current usage levels

including those most commonly used in cosmetics – methylparaben, propylparaben,

out on healthy tissue. If there had been

butylparaben and ethylparaben – which are

traces of paraben in healthy tissue, which

safe for use under present practices of use

has subsequently been proven, it would

and recommended concentrations.

have ruled out the link to breast cancer.

This conclusion is welcome news and will

In addition, parabens were detected

hopefully put an end to the speculation and

in the blank control samples used for the

debate regarding paraben safety.

study. This was explained as being due to

Parabens are among the most effective

contamination from the glassware. But, if

and safe preservatives for use in cosmetic

this was the case, why wasn’t the same

and skin care formulations. They have

conclusion reached for the detection of

more than 100 years’ history of safe usage

parabens in the breast tissue?¹

and have the lowest incident rate of skin problems in dermatological patients.

Proven safe to use Regardless of the questions raised about

A questionable study

the study’s integrity, it has dominated the

Alternatives to parabens are expensive and

debate on preservative choice and industry

can cause skin reactions. Skin care brands

usage for over a decade.

have been pressured into using alternatives

The latest review will hopefully restore

in order to allay the fears of their customers.

some confidence in the use of parabens,

Parabens have a chemical structure

though there remains some concern about

that is similar to estrogen and can mimic

the build-up of parabens in tissue over time

the effects of the hormone in the body. But

and the associated safety.

48

In its findings, the CIR expert

researchers never considered them

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

it will take some time to change industry and consumers’ perceptions. •

REFERENCES 1. www.cosmeticscef.com

Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za

PRESERVATIVES

Broad spectrum protection for soaps, creams and wet wipes

Preservatives are the silent heroes of cosmetics formulations. They play an integral part in product safety because they help prevent microbial contamination. Symrise is constantly innovating to develop solutions for formulator’s product protection needs. It’s newest offering – SymOcide BHO – is a three in one preservative solution.

S

ymOcide BHO is the first benzyl alcohol-based preservative blend from Symrise, with the added power of SymSave H. The new liquid blend

preservative effectively protects cosmetics from undesired microorganisms such as fungi and bacteria while being safe for human use.

In addition to the preservative benzyl alcohol, patent pending SymOcide BHO contains multifunctional ingredients SymSave H, which is an antioxidant, and the emollient, Hydrolite CG.

The product is a true multitasker, easy to process and offers broad spectrum protection against bacteria and other microorganisms creams, wet wipes and face masks. The product also works well with conventional

A suitable alternative

FAST FACTS ON SYMOCIDE BHO • liquid blend featuring benzyl alcohol and Hydroxyacetophenone • contains an antioxidant/soothing agent • ideal for emulsions, aqueous gels, surfactantbased formulas and wet wipes • a true multi-tasking ingredient • suitable for cold-processing • soluble in ethanol and glycol • globally compliant, including China.

surfactants and is effective in sulphate-

With SymOcide BHO, Symrise now offers

The clear, colourless liquid is cold

free systems.

an alternative to its other SymOcide

processable. Its composition is similar to

‘SymOcide BHO is extremely effective

preservatives, which are based on

and safe,’ says Dr Sabrina Behnke, global

SymOcide PH. The difference is SymOcide

o-cymen-5-ol and phenoxyethanol. The

product manager for preservatives in

PH is based on phenoxyethanol while

new development offers an extensive

Symrise’s cosmetics ingredients division.

SymOcide BHO is based on benzyl alcohol.

spectrum of potential applications, ranging

‘The product is a true multitasker, easy

‘Both substances fulfil the requirements

from soaps, shower gels

to process and offers broad spectrum

of the EU cosmetics regulation and

and shampoos to

protection against bacteria and

offer protection for a diverse range of products,’ adds Behnke. ‘SymOcide BHO

other microorganisms.’

is ideal for cosmetics manufacturers that

EU regulations in check

prefer a one-step solution, which can

Symrise’s SymOcide BHO is an option

be cold-processed.’ •

for customers looking for an alternative to phenoxyethanol, but who are not willing to compromise on protection efficacy against microorganisms.

Better together with

Symrise – www.symrise.com

Personal Care

Our task is to help unveil beauty PRESERVATIVES: Below is a selection of a wide range products for preservation and also some for natural antimicrobial solutions that we offer.

AMTicide® Coconut From fermenting coconut fruit with Lactobacillus to deliver a non-irritating, antifungal and effective multifunctional product Leucidal® Liquid SF From the fermentation of Lactobacillus in a defined growth medium, this yields a unique peptide and broad spectrum, antimicrobial and conditioning properties. This ferment filtrate is salysalicylate free

Leucidal® Liquid PT Fermented from Lactobacillus acidophilus in the presence of sustainable castor oil. Has enhanced antifungal activity. The result is a broad spectrum antimicrobial product with probiotic and conditioning properties.

KATHON™ CG Preservative • An aqueous mixture of methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone primarily used in rinse-off products such as shampoos, conditioners, body washes and liquid soaps.

• Excellent broad-spectrum activity against bacteria, yeasts and moulds. Globally

approved, Eco-friendly profile • Suitable alternative to parabens and formaldehyde releasers NEOLONE 950 Preservative • Single active preservative methylisothiazolinone chemistry • Effective broad-spectrum preservative • Compatible with a variety fungicides and bactericides • Simple, water-based formulation for ease of use • Effective alternative to formaldehyde releasers

Contact us: Johannesburg (011) 254 3300 | Cape Town (021) 534 3140 | Durban (031) 902 5324 East London (043) 726 8713 | Port Elizabeth (041) 453 1981

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |

49

Tea time

Word Search

TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Solution Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

Gayle Kihn Sales executive

ADVERTISERS' INDEX

+27 (0)82 457 0896

A-Thermal Retort Technologies ............... IFC.........www.athermal.co.za Automation Techniques ..........................23.........www.automation.co.za BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH.......5.........www.carecreations.basf.com Chempure ..............................................31.........www.chempure.co.za Chemsystems .........................................47.........www.chemsystems.co.za Crest Chemicals .....................................49.........www.crestchemicals.com Sappi.................................................... OBC.........www.sappi.com Goldpack ............................................... 21.........www.goldpack.co.za IMCD SA .................................................35.........www.imcdgroup.com ISW Shrink...............................................44.........www.iswshrink.co.za

50

| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review

Messe Munchen South Africa ....................7.........www.analytic-africa.com MG2 s.r.l.................................................. 15.........www.mg2.it Millchem .................................................43.........www.millchem.co.za Omron ................................................... 25.........industrial.omron.co.za Prescision Valve....................................... 41.........www.precisionglobal.com Savannah Fine Chemicals........................29.........www.savannah.co.za Sensetek ................................................ 45.........www.sensetek.co.za Teqal.................................................... OFC.........www.teqal.co.za Vantage Speciality Chemicals .................32.........kim@lipo.co.za

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the

Tel: 010 595 9690

cosmetics and toiletries industries.

Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

www.coschem.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers,

extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing

plastic containers, closures and packaging accessories.

services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com

FORMPAK

BRB SILICONES

For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,

The largest independent producer in the world of

packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations.

If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.

core and specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.

www.brb-international.com

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications.

Tablet coatings – manufactured,

113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com

The ideal cosmetic packaging solution Sappiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Paperboard is your complete solution for premium packaging and graphic applications in the cosmetic industry. Recognised for superior whiteness and a remarkable silky touch, Algro Design offers brand owners brilliant colour reproduction, increased shelf impact and unique brand differentiation.

Manufactured from a renewable resource, our packaging papers are recyclable and certified with international environmental certification bodies.

For more information on our market-leading packaging papers, please visit www.sappi.com