SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
Reflections
creative cosmetics packaging brought to you by
February 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 1
www.pharmacos.co.za What’s on at
Propak Africa 2019!
INSIDE
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS: The future of natural beauty Serialisation solutions to protect your brand | The verdict is in on parabens
Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
February 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 2
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
12
6 NEWS
Sustainable formulations from Covestro
Verify print quality on packaging with EyeC
Silab regenerates skin with Sensorialine
Machines on show at Propak Africa
10 PRODUCT NEWS
New products on the SA market
12 EVENTS
What’s hot at Propak Africa 2019!
40 INDUSTRY TALK
MG2 showcases capsule fillers
Nielsen reveals growth in private label sales
41 SUN CARE
18 PHARMA FOCUS:
REGULATIONS & LEGISLATION
A Thermal discusses how to manage pharma waste
20 INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING
New actuator and valve for aerosol sunscreens
CTFA highlights the importance of consumer safety
Formulate coral friendly products with Hallstar
44 PACKAGING INNOVATION
Print superior quality codes with Squid Ink
Fix-a-Form labels help brands comply with serialisation
& DESIGN
Serialise, print, check and commission with Strato
New solutions to strengthen your brand
Get ready for industry 4.0 with Omron
Linx delivers added value with new software
46 PRESERVATIVES
27 SPECIALTY INGREDIENTS
Marine actives for perfectly beautiful skin
Croda’s Steve Foots talks about open innovation
Vantage acquires surfactant producer, Leuna-Tenside
Rethink skin care product development with Sensient
Use Sucragel to naturally thicken oil Effective natural actives from Greentech
Natural antimicrobial protection
The verdict is in on parabens
Symrise launches SymOcide BHO
18
How to manage pharmaceutical waste
Farmers benefit from Moringa Cooperative project The many advantages of W/Si emulsifiers
39
The many advantages of W/Si emulsifiers P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
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SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
THE TEAM
Visibility you can see!
T
EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Contributors: Núria Almiñana, Robyn Brown, Elena Cañadas, Júlia Comas, Cristina Davi, Raquel Delgado, Martin McClintock, Jacques Strydom, Anina van der Walt
he price gap between genuine
waste. Medicines should be destroyed
Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti
and counterfeit goods is so vast it’s
and not landfilled or disposed of in sewers.
ADVERTISING
created a global market for knockoff
Turn to page 18 now to find out how to
products. While some consumers
properly destroy scheduled substances and
Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za
favour copies of luxury fashion items, fake
pharmaceutical waste.
Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za
pharma and personal care products can be
In the personal care industry, sales of
life threating. Fake or substandard medicines
speciality ingredients continue to make a
are the cause of thousands of deaths, many
substantial contribution to the bottom line of
of them African children, who, according
suppliers. This is because the strong focus on
to the World Health Organization, are given
commodities has shifted predominantly to
Sales Executive: Gayle Kihn +27 (0)82 457 0896 gayle.kihn@newmedia.co.za
ineffective treatments for pneumonia and
speciality ingredients over the past few years.
INTERNATIONAL SALES
malaria. While developing nations seem
By focusing on the hottest ingredients on
to suffer the most from this illicit trade, the
the market, local brands and manufacturers
Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de
problem is global.
continue to align their product offerings
Experts say serialisation is one of the best
with global beauty trends. On page 27, our
tools available to the pharma industry to
bumper feature on speciality ingredients
combat counterfeits. Serialisation provides
rounds up the latest technologies, actives,
end to end supply chain visibility. It requires
extracts and emulsions for natural,
a comprehensive system to track and trace
sustainable, effective and safe beauty
the passage of a pharma product from the
care products.
manufacturer to the patient. Every serialised
Consumer and environmental safety
product is identifiable by a unique serial
comes under the spotlight in our sun care
number in addition to the origin, shelf life
feature on page 42. Brand owners and
and batch number of that product. Many
manufacturers should always act in the best
of the suppliers in South Africa which can
interests of consumers and the environment
help manufacturers implement a serialised
when producing sunscreens; claims need to
system are featured in this edition of
be validated and ingredients shouldn’t have
Pharmaceutical
a negative impact on marine ecosystems.
Cosmetic Review. Turn
to page 20 for a complete overview of the
Please remember to keep in touch with us.
Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za
Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmedia.co.za Production Controller: Pam Moodley Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146
latest solutions available for serialisation,
you can connect with us on social media by
inspection, coding and marking – some
liking the @PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview
are internationally manufactured and
Facebook page or following @SApharmacos
Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.
distributed locally while others, like the
on twitter and @pharmacosreview on
MANAGING DIRECTOR
Strato SPCC Station are conceptualised and
Instagram. You can also send me an e-mail at
Aileen Lamb
produced in South Africa.
abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za.
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Bridget McCarney
Another interesting article for our readers from the pharma industry is the update on
Enjoy the read!
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR John Psillos
how to correctly manage pharmaceutical
NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD
HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
Consultant, drbaileys.com
Dr Trevor Baillie
Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
John Knowlton
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Vivian Frittelli
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
4
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
Now in Nigeria
Serving sub-Saharan Africa Regional marketing and technical resources to support personal care innovations in sub-Saharan Africa. BASF’s Care Creations™ is now closer than ever. Meeting the needs of the personal care industry in Africa. www.carecreations.basf.com
NEWS
BASF co-founds global Alliance to End Plastic Waste IN JANUARY, A global alliance of nearly
has supported this movement from the
global challenge that calls for swift action
30 companies was founded to advance
beginning. ‘We are co-founding the AEPW
and strong leadership. This new alliance
solutions that reduce and eliminate
to drive and promote solutions that will
is the most comprehensive effort to date
plastic waste, especially in the marine
effectively help solve the world’s plastic
to end plastic waste in the environment,’
environments. The Alliance to End Plastic
waste problem. Plastics are efficient
comments David Taylor, CEO of Procter &
Waste (AEPW) has committed over US$1.0
materials. They can save resources and
Gamble and AEPW chairman.
billion with the goal of investing US$1.5
offer health, safety and convenience
billion over the next five years to help end
benefits. Yet the benefits could be
that includes companies from across
this global problem. New solutions will
contradicted if plastics and their by-
the global plastics and consumer goods
be developed and brought to scale to
products are neither used, disposed of nor
value chain, including chemical and
minimise and manage plastic waste. This
recycled in a responsible manner.’
plastic manufacturers, consumer goods
also includes the promotion of solutions
Understanding where the plastic waste
The alliance is a not-for-profit organisation
companies, retailers, converters and waste
for used plastics by helping enable a
originates is key. Ocean Conservancy
management companies. The alliance will
circular economy.
research shows plastics in the ocean
work with governments, intergovernmental
results from litter on land. Most of the
organisations, academia, NGOs and civil
plastic waste is spread through rivers and
society to invest in joint projects to eliminate
can be traced back to ten major rivers
plastic waste from the environment.
Everything from personal care product packaging and beverage cans to general plastic waste ends up in marine environments if not recycled or disposed of properly
‘We fully support the aim to reduce plastic waste in the environment,’ said Dr Martin Brudermüller, chairman of the
around the world, mainly in Africa and Asia.
The founding members of the AEPW
Many of these rivers flow through densely
include BASF, Berry Global, Braskem,
populated areas, which have a lack of
Chevron Phillips Chemical Company,
adequate waste collection and recycling
Clariant, Covestro, CP Group, Dow, DSM,
infrastructure, leading to significant
ExxonMobil, Formosa Plastics Corporation
waste leakage. The AEPW will initiate
USA, Henkel, LyondellBasell, Mitsubishi
actions where they are most needed. This
Chemical Holdings, Mitsui Chemicals,
will include projects that contribute to
NOVA Chemicals, OxyChem, PolyOne,
solutions in four key areas: infrastructure
Procter & Gamble, Reliance Industries,
development; innovation; education and
SABIC, Sasol, Shell, Suez, SCG Chemicals,
engagement; and clean-up.
Sumitomo Chemical, Total, Veolia, and
‘Everyone agrees plastic waste does not
Versalis. Visit www.endplasticwaste.org for
board of executive directors and chief
belong in our oceans or anywhere in the
more information on how to join
technology officer of BASF SE, which
environment. This is a complex and serious
the alliance.
SUSTAINABLE FORMULATIONS FROM COVESTRO AT COSMETAGORA IN Paris, France on 15 and 16 January, Covestro presented its new Baycusan eco series of biobased polyurethane film formers. The first product in the series, Baycusan eco E 1000, consists of almost 60 percent renewable raw materials and may be labelled as an ingredient of natural origin, according to ISO Standard 16128, Part 1. The use of green raw materials in hair styling and hair care products is often connected with visible and tangible disadvantages, such as residue on hair or flaking as well as insufficient humidity resistance and wash-ability. Unlike natural film formers, Baycusan eco E 1000 does not leave any residue or sticky feel on the hair. To showcase its good hairstyling properties in an application, Covestro developed a hair gel with the biobased film former which is freem from synthetic fixing additives and formulated with natural or naturally derived ingredients. The company also presented the biodegradable properties of the synthetic polyurethane dispersions in the Baycusan classic range and it showcased a skin and ocean sun protect lotion based on synthetic Baycusan C 1004. The ingredients in the lotion were carefully selected for their environmental profile. When formulating the sun care product, the main objective was to minimise the impact on the marine ecosystem while offering high protection. Savannah Fine Chemicals is the South African agent for Covestro.
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| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
NEWS
A PROVEN INSPECTION SOLUTION FOR PHARMA PACKAGING EYEC SYSTEMS PROVIDE pharma companies and print suppliers with an efficient and dependable solution to verify the print quality of folding boxes, labels, patient information leaflets and flexible packaging. The systems perform a comprehensive and documented quality check of PDF files and printed samples — including the inspection of text, graphics, Braille, 1D and 2D codes — against the approved artwork. A proven solution in the global pharma industry, EyeC software is produced in conformance to applicable ISO 9001, GMP and GAMP 5. It also contains all functions necessary for validation in line with the guidelines laid out in US FDA Title 21 CFR Part 11 and meets the newest requirements
of the industry for data integrity, data security, audit trail and audit trail review. ‘We were pleased to present our latest solutions for the pharma industry at Pharmapack in Paris,’ says Dr Ansgar Kaupp, CEO of EyeC. ‘As a long term partner to the global industry, we are conscious of the importance of compliance, process security and validation. Our team was happy to show visitors how we can support them in those areas.’ EyeC operates around the globe with strategic partners in certain regions. Sales enquiries from South African pharma manufacturers are handled by the company’s headquarters in Germany, Austria and Switzerland.
Merck awarded for engaging social media content BIOINFORMATICS LLC HAS recognised Merck with a 2018 Life Science Industry Award for best use of social media. ‘This recognition reflects the opinions of our scientific customers and industry peers,’ says Renee Connolly, head of communications and corporate responsibility, life science, at Merck. ‘Congratulations to our global life science communications and digital marketing teams for creating and executing a top-notch social and digital strategy, which engages our customers with content that educates and inspires them to solve their toughest problems.’ Merck was selected for the award through a survey of more than 2 000 global scientists, who are engaged in all major life science facets of basic and pre-clinical research as well as pharma R&D. Recipients of the Life Science Industry Awards are determined not only by the number of votes received, but also on the satisfaction and loyalty of their customers. The Life Science business of Merck engages stakeholders across numerous social media channels, including LinkedIn, Twitter, Facebook and Instagram. In addition, the company’s employee advocacy programme, which encourages employees to share their industry expertise
EyeC’s Proofiler 600 DT inspection system offers fast and precise print sample testing of pharmaceutical packaging
on social media, has proven successful in raising the global visibility of Merck as a leader in life science.
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NE3 TW
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analytica Lab Africa 2019 Next-level lab technologies
Messe Muenchen brings the internationally renowned analytica cluster to South Africa in 2019, with the acquisition of Lab Africa, the only laboratory and analytics trade fair in South Africa. analytica is the world’s largest trade fair network for the lab and analysis industry.
Hot Topics: Food and Water Analysis
03
B2
AL2
July 9-11, 2019 Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg Presented by Messe Muenchen South Africa info@mm-sa.com
In proud co-location with:
food & drink technology Africa 2019
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
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NEWS
A sensory awakening for regenerated skin STIMULATED BY BEAUTY rituals, the senses can also be awakened in the skin through unprecedented biological activity. Recent studies have shown the expression of epidermal receptors of smell and taste favours cutaneous regeneration, including cell proliferation, migration and differentiation. Using in vitro models, Silab studied the impact of ageing on the expression and functioning of these receptors. The French company showed the regulation of the receptors is disrupted in the course of ageing. By reconnecting aged skin with its senses, Sensorialine favours epidermal regeneration. In this context, Silab presents Sensorialine, a natural active ingredient with multi-sensory benefits, activating the epidermal olfactory and taste receptors in favour of epidermal renewal. Based on a metabolomic study and molecular modelling carried out in its laboratories, the company established the structure/function relationship between the glycolipids active molecules of Sensorialine and the epidermal taste and olfactory receptors. After 14 days of twice daily treatment and compared to the placebo, Sensorialine tested at 2.5 percent significantly reduced transepidermal water loss in Caucasian and Asian volunteers’ skin. In addition, results of the consumer panel test highlighted the moisturising effect of the active. To investigate the sensory concept, Silab selected coconut because of its unique fragrance. Beyond its demonstrated efficacy, the company utilised coconut flour obtained from cold-pressing the white flesh, underlining its ongoing commitment to sustainability. To source coconut flour, Silab looked to Sri Lanka for select certified organic chains and certified GMP production sites that produce a traceable, secure and high quality raw material. A patented active ingredient (INCI: Water and Butylene glycol and Cocos nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract), Sensorialine is available in South Africa, in an aqueous solution from Meganede.
TRACK AND TRACE OF PHARMA AND FMCG GOODS COUNTERFEIT PHARMACEUTICALS AND FMCG products are a major concern for manufacturers, brand owners and consumers. As a result, companies are continually looking for ways to improve checks and security measures to curb the ever-increasing problem of counterfeit products finding their way into the market. Legitimate manufacturers are required to put strategies
Iberchem appoints Beverley Gardner as head of sales in SA
in place to stop fake and counterfeit goods from
IN LINE WITH its 2020 expansion plan, fragrance manufacturer Iberchem is expanding its footprint in emerging markets, including Africa. The company was founded in 1985 in Murcia, Spain, and specialises in the creation of fragrances for fine fragrances, personal care, home care and fabric care. The prominence of raw materials in the region helped the company to develop a portfolio of beautiful, captivating fragrances and a business model based on excellence in production and profound respect for the natural world. Iberchem now counts on 20 facilities, including eight production plants, strategically located across the world, as well as a commercial presence in over 120 countries. Understanding the added advantage and flexibility of having a local team, Iberchem recently appointed Beverley Gardner as head of sales for its new office in South Africa. Supported by the marketing, technical and scientific resources and capabilities of the company, Gardner will establish Iberchem’s sub-Saharan operations with a team of select individuals with extensive experience in the personal care and fragrances industries. Before joining Iberchem, Gardner was employed at Symrise South Africa where she worked in various roles such as managing sales for sub-Saharan Africa for the cosmetics, fragrance and aroma-molecules divisions. ‘I am passionate about all things African,’ says Gardner. ‘I tirelessly recount anecdotes from all of my trips across Africa and am always energised by dealing with people of all African cultures. I strive to accurately connect consumers’ actual needs with what Iberchem can offer in terms of tailor made solutions.’ Gardner’s zealous curiosity of people and places has enabled her to forge unique connections throughout Africa. This, coupled with Iberchem’s well established success of sales in emerging markets, will immensely enhance the multinational’s footprint in Africa. In 2017, the company opened a new office in Ghana and acquired the South African company, Versachem. The acquisition is an exciting Beverley Gardner of venture that now allows Iberchem access to key customers and brands Iberchem across the continent. South Africa
TracePack is well positioned to help manufacturers in the
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| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
destroying their brand reputation and strength. Since an effective strategy to fight this crime includes item level identification, authentication and track and trace, fight against counterfeit products. Tracepack can assist legitimate manufacturers by providing the following: • consulting on anti-counterfeit solutions and comprehensive brand protection strategies • marking technologies for item level identification • secure and patented 2D codes that cannot be recreated by counterfeiters • a track and trace platform that tracks a product from the manufacturer to consumer, and detects round tripping and diversions • a solution to ringfence products supplied • authentication and security printing solutions. The company’s brand protection and authentication products and solutions include: • highly secure Pelta 2D codes for authentication and verification • holograms • UV, IR and DNA inks • security printing solutions • track and trace software platform • PolyTrust Edible and UV invisible inks • marking hardware.
2019
March
DIARY
ood f
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
RE V IE W
WHAT'S ON IN
SOUTH AFRICAN
Cosmetics Safety & Compliance Conference 6 to 7 March NWU Conference Centre, Potchefstroom www.nwu.ac.za
Propak Africa 2019
2019 SUBSCRIPTION FORM
12 to 15 March Expo Centre Nasrec, Johannesburg www.propakafrica.co.za
SAAFFI Annual Seminar & Workshop 14 March Bytes Conference Centre, Midrand www.saaffi.co.za
CosmoPack + Cosmo Perfumery & Cosmetics 14 to 17 March Bologna, Italy Fair District www.cosmoprof.com/cosmopack
Please complete in block letters, select your subscription option, and return this form, along with your payment to: NEW MEDIA PUBLISHING (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel +27 21 701 1566. Fax 086 529 6468. SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS (please tick) 1 YEAR
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Full Name:...........................................................................................
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Designation: ........................................................................................
Association AGM 28 March Hurlingham Office Park, Johannesburg
Company: ........................................................................................... Postal Address:................................................................................... .................................................................Code:.................................
April
Country: ..............................................................................................
in-cosmetics Global
Approximate number of employees: ..................................................
2 to 4 April Porte de Versailles, Paris, France www.in-cosmetics.com/global
Beauty World Middle East 15 to 17 April Dubai, UAE www.beautyworldme.com
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China Beauty Expo
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20 to 22 May www.chinabeautyexpo.com/en Shanghai New International Exhibition Centre
23 May Emperors Palace Convention Centre, Kempton Park www.aerosol.co.za
Direct Deposit (Complete and email this form to: felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za
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26 to 28 April Sarit Expo Centre, Nairobi, Kenya www.growexh.com/beautykenya
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P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
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STREET
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1 Perk up dull skin Celltone’s new brightening range is a safe and effective skin care system to even tone and brighten the skin. The three step system includes a 150ml face wash, 50ml SPF50 day cream that protects skin and promotes a brighter complexion while preventing sun induced pigmentation and a 50ml night cream, which works while you sleep to brighten skin and illuminate the complexion. The range is
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formulated with liquorice extract, the well-known and safe skin brighter – niacinamide – as well as vitamin c and arbutin.
2 Natural chest rub Formulated with eucalyptus and lavender, Pure Beginnings 100 percent natural chest rub is the perfect addition to your medicine cabinet. Free from petroleum and menthol, the chest rub is safe to use on babies as young as three months old. According to Pure Beginnings, 100 percent of the ingredients are of natural origin. The rub also incorporates the healing properties of eucalyptus, tea tree, lavender and frankincense, gently and effectively easing congestion.
3 Get the new look The new look Duel by Lion Shaving products are for men who know what they
3
want. This heritage South African male grooming brand has been revamped. The Lion Shave Duel Shaving Gel, Lion Shave Duel Shaving Foam, Lion Shave Duel Disposable Razors and Lion Shave Disposable Razors boast brand new packaging, clean lines and fresh colours, developed by a local design team. Duel by Lion Shaving products are available nationwide at all major retailers.
4 Let’s twist again! Originally launched in 2014, Sisley’s best-selling jumbo pencils offer superbly comfortable skincare with sensory formulas and vibrant, highly pigmented colours in an easy to use travel size. The successful products are now being unveiled in new and original shades for the lips, eyes and cheeks. The jumbo twist pencils combine shadow and light to give a dramatic complexion. Passion and contour are the two new shades that complete the existing range. Contour is a bronzer with subtle gold touches used to contour and redefine the facial features. Sisley Paris products are sold in Edgars Beauty outlets, nationwide.
5 Medical skin care Born out of years of genetic, chemical and dermatological research, optiphi brings you Delta, a medical skincare system to redefine how practitioners diagnose and treat the skin. The range was developed as a collaborative project between plastic surgeons, aesthetic practitioners, chemists, geneticists and biomedical engineers. The extensive range of products are exclusively available to plastic surgeons, dermatologists and aesthetic practitioners.
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5
4
Launched a new product in 2018/19
Make a
Statement about it
2019
New Product Competition ENTRIES NOW OPEN C o n t a c t A b b y V o r s t e r : A b b y . V o r s t e r @ n e w m e d i a . c o . z a | + 2 7 ( 0 )11 8 7 7 6 2 8 1
Highlights, new show features and more reasons to attend
Propak Africa is a renowned local and international brand. The industries it represents have come to count on the exhibition to showcase their latest innovations and technologies, sustainable packaging initiatives and the most cutting-edge machinery and equipment.
A
frica’s ultimate packaging,
overview of the South African packaging
These are designed for the two-fold
labelling, plastics, printing
market, barriers to recycling plastics
purpose of guaranteeing product quality
and food processing
waste, the new dimension in digital
and boosting efficiencies and profits.
exhibition takes place the
printing, and packaging design versus
The company will also showcase the
Expo Centre in Nasrec, Johannesburg,
product information are some of the
extreme efficiency of the Concept Stream
from 12 to 15 March. Leading players in
seminar topics available to visitors.
S from Robatech’s proven Concept Line.
the packaging and related industries
The new themed days will see day
look forward to engaging with visitors
one focusing on new products; two will
and sharing information on their
centre on sustainability; three will put the
This small-volume melter is designed for processing on demand.
offerings. Many new
spotlight on skills development;
Didget (Hall 6/G14)
products and services will
and day four will be a ‘local
Exhibiting alongside TremPak, Didget
be launched at the show,
is lekker’ day where the South
is a pioneer in digitally printed flexible
with machinery on display
African Propak Africa brand
packaging. The company will be
for the first time in
and local manufacturers and
demonstrating a wide variety of end-
South Africa.
products will be celebrated.
use applications, designs, flexible
‘Propak Africa is
substrates and colour explosion. Didget’s
WHAT’S HOT FROM EXHIBITORS
the place to be to see the future of all things packaging,’ says Sven Smit, portfolio director at Specialised Exhibitions
passionate team will be on-hand to take your brand to new heights and rock the socks off your customers. With
Sven Sm it
Robatech (Hall 6/F33)
its investment in a wide web HP20 000
Your partner for innovative
digital press, the company has expended
Montgomery. ‘Effective, striking and
and sustainable adhesive application
into full production runs for customers,
sustainable packaging has never been
solutions worldwide, Robatech offers a
with enormous capabilities to make first
more important, and all the latest
wide range of powerful and innovative
class packaging possible for even the
innovations will be on show across
solutions for every gluing process. Its
smallest customer.
Propak Africa and co-located shows
solutions meet the high demands of
FoodPro, Pro-Plas Expo, Print Expo and
the packaging industry with respect to
Pro-Label Africa. Our aim is to showcase
production speed, flexibility, efficiency
the latest developments across the
and quality assurance. As the official
full industry life cycle – from the raw
distributor of W.H. Leary in South Africa,
materials and packaging, storage and
Robatech will highlight the latest gluing
transport to recycling and
and quality assurance technology
waste management.’
solutions offered by W.H. Leary’s Array glue application and
New initiatives For the first time ever, Propak Africa will offer daily, free to attend seminars. These will be presented by expert speakers with content aligned to the show’s ‘four days, four themes’ topics. The themed days are part of the new initiatives launched by the organiser, Specialised Exhibitions Montgomery. Another new initiative is the Seminar Theatre, taking place in Hall 7. Packaging for the future, packaging 4.0, top consumer trends, Africa insights, an
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| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
detection controllers.
The Concept Stream S by Robatech
Free wi-fi
Charging stations and free wi-fi will be provided in the wi-fi café in halls five and seven
Future innovation
The Institute of Packaging SA’s Student Goldpack award-winning packaging designs will be on display for the duration of the expo
Get connected
Download the new Propak Africa App to keep updated on show happenings and announcements prior to and during the show
Tracepack and PPS (Hall 6/E31)
and safety sensors for all automated
While the company’s demos at Propak
environments. It provides training and
Bonfiglioli Engineering (Hall 6/H06d)
Africa are relevant to the food industry,
product support and gives advice on
Featured on the Italian Pavilion,
it also offers a variety of solutions for the
safety risk assessments at customers’
Bonfiglioli Engineering is a world leader
pharma industry. Tracepack ensures
factories. Prime Automation is also
compliance with good manufacturing
the agent for IDE Enclosures
practices and to track and trace
and Escha. The company
products through the supply chain.
will showcase its safety
For manufacturers of prescription
sensors and control
include pharma, metal
and OTC pharmaceuticals, stringent
equipment in the Pilz
can and aerosol, food
track and trace requirements call
range, as well as a
and beverage and
for innovative packaging, coding,
number of options
plastics. Inspection
marking and handling technologies,
in the Escha range of
including printing of bar codes, lot
connectors
numbers, batch codes, item numbers,
and cables.
and time and date stamps. TracePack
in manufacturing inspection SAIL by Bonfiglioli Engineering
equipment – laboratories and in line – for all packaging requirements. These
is quick, reliable and repeatable, and gives consistent results for comprehensive batch control.
can provide turnkey solutions for these
Pyrotec Packmark (Hall 6/E18)
Its new Smart Automated Inspection
manufacturers.
Among an impressive line-up of
Laboratory (SAIL) will be showcased at
equipment being demonstrated,
Propak Africa. SAIL is suitable for different
Karlville (Hall 6/J10-K9)
Pyrotec PackMark is showcasing its
container types, sizes and contents,
Besides its standard dry and steam
ultra-portable Anser U2 mobile hand-
bringing together CCIT, AVI and HGA all
shrink technologies, Karlville also offers
held printer and the 9405 Continuous
in one machine, for in-process, clinical
the patented Tornado system, which
Inkjet (CIJ) coder from Markem-Imaje.
trials and laboratory use.
is the premier shrink sleeve system for
The ultra-portable Anser U2 mobile
complicated dry shrinks. The company
hand-held unit is versatile, lightweight
Hubergroup (Hall 7/D09)
is said to have the fastest lines in the
and adept at handling even the
Packaging is continuously evolving
world, running a full body sleeve at
trickiest print surfaces. It can be carried
to fulfil new demands in terms of
up to 800 sleeves per minute, with
anywhere and prints at any angle on
productivity, safety and aesthetics.
tamper evident running at up to 1 000
a variety of substrates and products.
Safety in terms of health and
sleeves per minute. Its pouch filling
Visitors to Pyrotec PackMedia’s stand
environment needs special attention
technologies involve taking a premade
will also witness a South African first
as more and more stringent regulatory
pouch, inserting a spout and filling and
as the company plans to unveil a
requirements are enforced, particularly
capping the finished product. Its handle
ground-breaking new machine at
for pharma and food packaging.
application systems are seen on water
Propak Africa.
An integral part of packaging, inks
packs in South Africa and around the world, while its multipak solutions are used by FMCG companies worldwide.
and coatings need to be formulated The Anser U2 hand held coder from Pyrotec PackMark
carefully to meet all the regulatory requirements. Hubergroup’s new packaging printing inks and coatings
Prime Automation (Hall 6/E30)
are developed specifically for
With customers in the cosmetics and
compliance – visitors can find out more
toiletries, medical and pharmaceutical
the company’s offerings at the show.
manufacturing industries, in addition to many other industries, Prime
Afritrade (Hall 5/D31)
Automation is the official sales partner
Although the company is involved in
for Pilz in South Africa. The company
the handling of powders, granules
specialises in safety control systems
and liquids in for the pharmaceutical,
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
13
Our aim is to showcase the latest developments across the full industry life cycle
CONFERENCES
Morgancoat (Hall 7/B5)
Top industry speakers are scheduled to present
developments to share with the
The company has some significant
at several conferences taking place alongside
South African market, which include
Propak Africa. These include:
improved capacity and quality,
• the IPSA Think Tank
new state of the art equipment and
• Printing SA and South African Institute of
an increased product portfolio.
Printing (SAIP) Conference • South Africa Plastics Recycling Organisation (SAPRO) Indaba • the Packaging Innovation & Sustainability Conference.
Morgancoat will have European technical and sales experts on its stand, showcasing its brand new range of shrink-sleeve material to the local market. Its technology partner out of Europe will be on hand to showcase
food, chemical and plastics industries, Afritrade Machinery Importers’
hospitals and pharmacies with
a wide range of niche speciality label
Propak Africa showcase will include
comprehensive solutions to help them
stock materials.
live demonstrations of some of
improve their business processes and
the best stretch film and recycling
overcome key challenges.
machinery available in South Africa.
Rotocon (Hall 7/B10,13,14) With three stands at Propak Africa, Rotocon will share leading solutions
representatives from each of the
Automation Techniques (Hall 6/A8)
machinery manufacturers it represents,
Visitors will get to see the latest
spotlight on its Ecoline brand of finishing
to liaise with customers on their
technology in inspection and packaging
machines. Ecoline provides a full suite
technology requirements. XHD (China)
machinery for the pharma, food and
of cost-efficient standard features and
will be demonstrating its automatic
beverage industries at Automation
is cleverly designed for inspection and
high speed, three layer, co-extrusion
Technique’s stand. The company will
slitting of printed labels. Four Ecoline
stretch film machine to promote its
showcase the latest innovations in X-ray
machines will be demonstrated: the RDF
strong combination of technology and
technology and coding and marking
330 for digital label finishing; RSI 330
manufacturing. Syncro SR (Italy) and
printers for the FMCG and packaging
slitter, rewinder and inspection machine;
Syncro Plasmac SRL (UK) will present
industries. Automation Techniques
RDS 330 for die-cutting and inspection;
their range of blenders and recycling
is also excited to demo its new anti-
and the RSI 420 with E+L’s Smartscan
machines that offer accuracy, quality
counterfeiting Strato SPCC machine,
inspection system. The Screen Truepress
and simplicity with cutting edge
which offers a locally developed,
Jet L350UV+ series UV inkjet press – the
technology and design.
complete track and trace serialisation
most flexible and automated label
solution for the pharma industry.
production system in its class – will also
The Afritrade team will be joined by
OKI (Hall 7/A8)
in label printing and finishing, with a
be demonstrated by the company. •
A new Pro1050 label printer will be launched by OKI at the show. This five
For more information and online visitor
colour narrow format label printer
registration, visit www.propakafrica.co.za.
can print on a wide range of labelling material, in high quality colour. For OKI the business of delivering healthcare is becoming increasingly complex. Providers are being asked
The Ecoline RSI from Rotocon
to deliver quality care, ensure patient safety and improve operations in an environment where costs are soaring and reimbursements are dwindling. OKI and its technology partners provide healthcare organisations, laboratories,
The new Strato SPCC machine
Detection Techniques (Hall 6/A5) A sister company to Automation
The Pro1050 label printer from OKI
Techniques, Detection Techniques will demo the latest advances in inspection systems, such as metal detection and check-weighing systems, and its complete range of products in colour, print and camera inspection. The company is the exclusive distributor for Loma Systems in South Africa.
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| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
MG2 returns to Propak Africa
A leading global manufacturer of end of line capsule fillers and packaging machines, MG2 Technological Innovation, will be exhibiting at Propak Africa, on the Italian Pavilion. Propak Africa takes place scheduled 12t to 15 March at Nasrec expo centre in Johannesburg
P
romoted by UCIMA, the
explore new fields of activity, expanding
Italian Packaging Machinery
from pharma to the personal care,
Manufacturers’ Association, and
cosmetics and food industries.
the Italian Trade Agency, the
PACKAGING MACHINES FROM MG2
MG2 now has competencies and
pavilion will to present the best of the Italian
know-how in designing pouch machines,
technology and innovation for pharma and
cartoners, tray formers, case packers and
cosmetics manufacturing and packing
palletisers. Thanks to the acquisition, MG2
in emerging markets. MG2 Technological
now offers a complete solution for primary
Innovation will be located at stand H06-H
and secondary packaging.
• blistering machines • cartoners • forming and filling machines for boxes and trays • vertical and horizontal case-packers • palletisers
in Hall 6.
A flair for machinery innovation
In 1997, after 30 years of activity focused on capsule
• serialisation systems for bundles, bottles and cartons.
UCIMA is the national trade association
filling, MG2 diversify into
that represents and supports Italian
packaging, increasing
packing and packaging machinery
from pharmaceuticals, chemicals,
its product range
manufacturers. It has more than 130
petrochemicals, cosmetics and end-of-line
through acquisition.
member companies from all over the
technologies to the food, confectionery and
country, including industry leaders like
tobacco industries. •
The result was the launch of MG2’s packaging division, which allows the company to create new projects and
The MG2 capsule filler model, Planeta
MG2 Technological Innovation. UCIMA member companies cover the entire range of packaging machinery production,
MG2 Technological Innovation – www.mg2.it
MG2. Capsule fillers & packaging technology. A story of innovation. Since 1966. PROCESSING
PACKAGING
www.mg2.it
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
15
COMPANY FOCUS
Engage the senses with
creative packaging
There is a new manufacturer of rigid plastic packaging on the block. Teqal was established two years ago and is now fully operational, producing classic and innovative solutions to package South Africa’s beauty and personal care products. By Abby Vorster
P
ackaging has to inspire consumers.
launched in February 2017 when Sean
Introducing Reflections
These days, good design simply
Kirkham (ex-Consupaq), his wife, Renee
According to Euromonitor International,
isn’t enough, particularly in the
(ex-Consupaq) and Dean Mitchel (seasoned
global per capita spend on beauty and
cosmetics industry where packaging
tool maker) went into business together.
personal care products is expected to
They started small, operating out of premises
continue to increase in the next three
functionality and sustainability have become essential purchasing criteria.
at the Dube TradePort alongside King
It takes more than the best CAD/CAM software on the market to design and produce functional packaging that engages the senses. It requires a creative and experienced team, excellent quality raw materials and modern,
Shaka International Airport in
DID YOU KNOW?
KwaZulu-Natal, and have grown substantially in the past 12 months.
The name Teqal originated from the company’s capabilities to ‘do tech well’. Creative and catchy, Sean says the short name is immediately recognisable on packaging.
energy efficient equipment. You’ll find all this and more, as
‘We’re moving onto new
years. These products are primarily essential toiletries, such as bath and shower, hair and skin care products, which, in terms of packaging, translate into growing volumes of HDPE jars and bottles. As a result, the global packaging
land within the TradePort in
industry is expected to post a two
the near future to support
percent compound annual growth rate,
our growing business, which
generating 2.6 billion units between 2017
focuses on injection moulded rigid plastic packaging,’
explains Sean. ‘Using our extensive experience and creativity, we design
and 2022. Both locally and internationally, analysts predict the demand for masstige and premium beauty products will continue
well of some of the best brains
and produce unique packaging to match
to grow, naturally triggering an increased
in the business, at Teqal Creative
and often exceed our clients’ requirements.
need for more innovative packaging.
Packaging (Teqal).
We’re proud to have Tiaan van Zyl on our
Teqal is a new manufacturer of rigid packaging for the cosmetics and personal care industry. The company was
team, who has 27 years’ experience in mould design. He designed the first cosmetic jar moulds for Consupaq.’
Teqal’s new range of Reflections cosmetics jars are a perfect packaging solution for masstige and premium beauty products. ‘Elements within the jar and cap bend and reflect light. The design incorporates a floating inner
Tiaan van Zyl, Dean Mitchell and Sean Kirkham
and heavy base, which, along with the cap inner, feature unique facets. The complementary elements give a premium look and engage the sense of sight. The soft feel of the cap rotation and the cap’s snap action are thoughtful additions we’ve included to engage consumers’ sense of touch,’ say Sean.
Dean Mitchell
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| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
COMPANY FOCUS PAPERLESS
FAST
EFFICIENT
ACCURATE
TEQAL RUNS A FULLY INTEGRATED, REAL TIME PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT AND ERP SYSTEM With Reflections, the company has used a magic combination of uninhibited creativity and practical functionality to offer beauty brands the differentiation they need to gain loyal
packaging. To sustain a high performance team, Sean says everyone is urged to partake in physical activity. ‘Our staff is encouraged to walk,
consumers. The cap and jar designs are
run or cycle the mountain bike
customisable based on a customer’s
trail accessible from our office,’ he
needs with options ranging from a flared or
comments. ‘It’s these and other finer
straight sided cap to a tapered or straight
details that are central to our success.
sided jar. The foil band can incorporate a
We shoot for the stars at Teqal. Our
wave or classic straight shape with variable
team is made up of goal focused
colours while the facets on the base of the
individuals, with specialised expertise
jar are customisable.
and complementary skills, who
Elements within the jar and cap bend and reflect light
Christine South ey, Renee Kirkham and Liz O’Reilly
collaborate, innovate and produce consistently superior packaging for brands looking to delight consumers with beautiful, functional and sustainable packaging.’ There’s something vibrant about
The jars are produced using Teqal’s
the company. Its commitment to the
modern, efficient production platform
cosmetics and personal care industry
and state of the art toolroom. Its in house
to produce cost-effective, premium
R&D capabilities are extensive, including
packaging with guaranteed supply,
a 3D printer and factory, running Siemens
is refreshing.
NX software to deliver the next generation of design and manufacturing solutions. ‘Our complete offering is next level,’
Sean adds: ‘We want to make packaging better and more sustainable in South Africa. We believe Teqal can
Sean explains, ‘by combining the
achieve this by investing in the right skills,
best skills in the industry with modern
structure and administrative systems
equipment, mostly sourced from Europe,
along with robust compliance measures
Teqal can offer more than ever before. We
and an automated platform. Building
have also brought design and injection
on our strong reputation, we will also
mould tooling in house to ensure our
keep developing one stable production
customers’ projects remain confidential
platform after another in line with market
and are sustainable.’
and customer demands.’ •
A dream team This owner run and managed business does more than create spectacular
Teqal Creative Packaging – www.teqal.co.za
Closures conveyed during production
Shaun Fagan
Shaun Maharaj
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
17
PHARMA FOCUS//Regulations & Legislation
How to manage pharmaceutical waste Martin McClintock, A Thermal’s industrial pharmacist, looks
at updates to Act 101 of 1965 and subsequent changes to some of the regulations governing the destruction of medicine and scheduled substances.
U
pdates to the General
substances shall only be destroyed
and wholesalers of these type of products
Regulations of The Medicines
by a waste treatment facility licensed
are now faced with added responsibility. In
Act, gazetted on 25 August
under the Waste Act with a license that
addition, because S0 medicine can be sold
2017 brought a few changes
includes the authorisation to destroy
in any retail outlet, the retrieval of damaged
medicines or pharmaceuticals.
and expired S0 medicine from these
to certain regulations. The previous Regulation 27 (Destruction of Medicine)
Regulation 44. (2) stipulates: ‘No
was substantially updated and rewritten
medicines or scheduled substances
consistently. Retailers should be educated
as Regulation 44 (Destruction of
other than those as determined by
on the importance of handling this medicine
Medicine or Scheduled Substances).
the Authority shall be disposed of into
in a responsible way, to protect society, the
municipal sewerage systems’.
environment and natural resources.
Regulation 44 (1) can be regarded as the most important sub regulation that
retailers should be done more regularly and
Pharmaceuticals in solution are
Regulation 44. (5) and Regulation 44. (6)
gives clear guidance on how destruction
difficult to remove from water and
cover the destruction of schedule 5 or 6 and
of medicine and scheduled substances
most water treatment facilities.
7 or 8 substances or medicine:
should be approached. 44. (1) A
Sewerage treatment facilities are
• 44. (5) A Schedule 5 or 6 substance or
medicine or scheduled substance shall
also not equipped to remove these
only be destroyed by a waste treatment
pharmaceuticals completely. As a
facility authorised to destroy medicines
result, the global phenomenon of
(a) an inspector
or pharmaceutical waste in terms of the
pharmaceutical residues in drinking
(b) a pharmacist
water should be a major cause
(c) any other person authorised by the CEO.
for concern.
• 44. (6) A Schedule 7 or 8 substance or
By adopting a risk-based approach, the probability of pharmaceuticals ending up in potable water can be eliminated National Environmental Management: Waste Act, 2008 (Act No. 59 of 2008). The most important aspect to consider is: medicines or scheduled
medicine shall be destroyed in terms of sub regulation (1) in the presence of
Regulation 44. (3) states: ‘The
medicine shall be destroyed in terms of
destruction or disposal of medicines
sub regulation (1) in the presence of:
or scheduled substances must be
(a) an inspector
conducted in such a manner to
(b) two pharmacists
ensure the medicines or scheduled
(c) any other person authorised by
substances cannot be salvaged and the
medicine or scheduled substance has been denatured’. This regulation has been improved
the CEO. Regulation 44. (7) covers the rules
relating to certification and record keeping. 44. (7) The waste treatment facility shall
from the previous regulation 27 (3)
issue a certificate and maintain a record
clause, which only stated the medicine
of the destruction contemplated in sub
or scheduled substances should not
regulations (4),
be retrievable. It has now been
(5) and (6), which shall contain the
included that these substances
following information:
should be denatured.
• the name of the medicine or scheduled substance, if known; or the
When it’s scheduled In Regulation 44. (4), S0 medication is
schedule of the medicine or scheduled substance concerned
included: (4) A Schedule 0 medicine or
• the quantity destroyed
Schedule 1, 2, 3 or 4 substance or medicine
• the date of destruction of the medicine or
must be destroyed at a site in terms of sub regulation (1) and such destruction must be certified as determined by the authority. Manufacturers
scheduled substance • the name and designation of the person in whose presence such destruction took place • any other information as determined by the authority.
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| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
Regulations & Legislation //PHARMA FOCUS
Category
Incineration
Co-processing
Thermal desorption
a risk-based approach, the probability of
Tech fit for purpose
√
X
√
pharmaceuticals ending up in potable
Correct gas clean-up
√
X
√
Complete destruction (solids and gases)
√
X
√
Environmental impact
Medium
very high
low
Emissions standards
High
low
high
End product
ash to landfill
clinker to cement
carbonised fuel
Local destruction methods
consumption, taking into consideration
The previous Regulation 27 of Act 101 mainly
the environment and harm to health.
stated medicine and scheduled substances
Good Pharmacy Practice, medicine and
sewerage system and the product should
scheduled substances were never meant
be non-retrievable. This was offset by the
to be landfilled.
quality of our water, which will benefit the general health of society and even help curb problems such as infertility and antibiotic resistance. •
Incineration, cement kiln co-processing
pharmaceuticals, which left an opportunity
and thermal desorption (pyrolysis)
for companies to go the landfill route. This
are examples of destruction methods.
practice could be understood if it’s taken
Autoclaving and electro-thermal
into account that landfills carry half to a
deactivation (microwave) are not suitable
third of the costs incurred by destruction.
for pharmaceutical destruction.
However, disposal to landfill is not an
In turn, this might assist to improve the
It can therefore be argued, according to
are not allowed to be disposed of in the
waste act that allowed the landfilling of
water can be eliminated or greatly reduced.
environmentally suitable or responsible
Conclusion
choice because medicines may still be
It can be argued the intention of this
recoverable by scavengers (human and
legislation is clear. Medicine should be
animal) and metabolites may leach into
destroyed and not merely sent to landfill
the surrounding water-table. The waste is
or disposed of in sewerage. By adopting
A Thermal – www.athermal.co.za
ABOUT Martin McClintock is an industrial pharmacist specialising in the safe destruction of pharmaceuticals in the best possible environmentally friendly way. McClintock completed B.Pharm in 2000 and M.Sc Pharm in 2002 at North West University. He has vast experience in the formulation, production, QC, QA, RA, sale and destruction of medicine, which gives him a broad understanding of most aspects of pharmacy.
also not treated and is merely reserved for future generations. In the past, the term ‘disposal’ was used to describe landfilling and ‘destruction’ to describe thermal treatment. In the Rules Relating to Good Pharmacy Practice, gazetted on 2 March 2012, both terms are clearly defined: • ‘disposal’ denotes the removal of medicines and scheduled substances destined for destruction without the intention of retrieval, in compliance with existing legislation • ‘destruction’ denotes rendering the medicines and scheduled substances unusable or irretrievable for use or
YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED Q: Is my product classified as a foodstuff or a medicine? A: The definition of a medicine and veterinary medicine can be found in Act 101 of 1965 (1. Definitions) as of 1 June 2017 (including Act 72 of 2008 and Act 14 of 2015) and the definition and classification of complementary medicine and health supplements can be found in the General Regulations to Act 101 of 1965 as published on 25 Aug 2017. Q: Is my unwanted product classified as Hazardous Waste? A: The National Environmental Management: Waste Act (Act 59 of 2008) defines hazardous waste as any waste containing organic or inorganic elements or compounds that may – owing to the inherent physical, chemical or toxicological characteristics of the waste – have a detrimental impact on health and the environment. Q: Does your policy on handling hazardous waste meet the following criteria? • Is the product destroyed or merely disposed of? • Is the service provider licensed for medicine or pharmaceutical waste? • Does any of the product end up in the municipal sewerage systems? • Is the waste salvageable? • Is it denatured? • Are Schedule 0 to Schedule 4 products destroyed by a licensed facility? • Does the facility have a permanent pharmacist? • Does the facility have a destruction certificate or disposal certificate? • Is there limited effect on the environment and health? A: Pharmacists needs to ensure the life cycle of products created under their care ends in a controlled fashion with the lowest possible impact and risk to health and the environment. Formulate your company’s environmental policy and approve a vendor aligned with your company’s policy. The green scorpions are the law enforcement arm of the department of environmental affairs (dea). The dea regulates destruction facilities and is keeping tight control, yet goalposts are constantly being moved. This means audits should be conducted often at destruction facilities to verify service providers respect the law and deliver a compliant service. This due diligence should also cover any sub-contractors used as a lot of waste management companies make use of independent destruction facilities, which might not be compliant.
P C Review | FEBRUARY FEBRAURY 2019 |
19
INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING
High quality codes for less Streamline 5 – a small character coder – and the hi-resolution printing system, CoPilot 382, are the newest additions to Squid Ink’s growing family of CIJ printing, marking and coding systems.
T
he new Squid Streamline 5 CIJ printing system is designed to print small, superior quality characters on a variety of substrates,
including porous, non-porous, smooth, textured, curved and concave. Printing up to five lines of text, the Streamline 5 offers a reliable, yet cost
No chips or RFID tags are used to lock users into a fluids hostage situation with the printer manufacturer
effective solution for virtually any small
easy automatic start-up and shut down.
character, primary package coding
A simple press of a button commands the
application. Unlike
printer to go through
any other CIJ printer
a start-up cycle or
on the market, it does
flush the system for
not require a built in
shutdown. When
display screen. The
routine maintenance
Streamline 5 operates
is required,
with a wireless or
components can be
wired touchscreen
swapped out within
tablet running Squid
minutes, eliminating
Ink’s powerful Orion
the need to purchase
software, allowing
CIJ printing on a pharmaceutical product
the user the option of controlling the printer on the production floor, or networking multiple systems from a central location.
Maximum efficiency
expensive filter and pump assemblies or
schedule costly service calls. Changing fluids in the Streamline 5 is a simple, fast and clean process. Clean cartridges of ink and makeup can be replaced in seconds without having to stop
Its self-cleaning printhead with CleanJet
production. In addition, no chips or RFID tags
maintenance routine allows quick and
are used to lock users into a fluids hostage situation with the printer manufacturer. As a
LASER CODING SYSTEMS SQUID INK’S SQ-10 and SQ-30 laser coding systems are designed for high speed primary coding applications on pharmaceutical products, cosmetics and food and beverages. The lasers can permanently mark paper, cardboard, plastic, glass, wood, coated metal and leather. Users choose between a 10W (SQ-10) and 30W system (SQ-30) depending on their specific application requirements. The systems offer permanent coding of text, time and date, bar codes and serial numbering. They are quick and easy to install on stationary and moving products and easily fit into production environments where space is limited. The laser head can be rotated 90° in less than five minutes. They are also economical, clean and eco-friendly. Their IP54 rating ensures maximum reliability and uptime in demanding applications.
20
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
proven ink manufacturer, Squid Ink offers a comprehensive range of inks for a variety of
Coding on an FMCG product makes the product traceable throughout the supply chain
inks for printing on a variety of products like coated cartons, plastics, glass, stretch wrap and metals. Squid Ink’s PZ-1000 ink for porous substrates offers low-maintenance performance, eliminating the need for autopriming functions and offering better ink utilisation than competitive systems. With the CoPilot 382, users can meet the GS1 barcode specification for less. Any way you look at it, Squid Ink’s CoPilot 382 provides users with an affordable solution to meet their ink jet coding needs. The Streamline 5 and CoPilot 382 are available now through Squid Ink’s worldwide network of authorised distributors, including Goldpack in South Africa which services the sub-Saharan African region. •
applications and industry requirements.
Application versatility Squid Ink’s CoPilot 382 printing system is designed to print superior quality hi-resolution characters on porous and non-porous surfaces. With up to 2.1 inches of print height per printhead and the ability to run up to two printheads from one controller, the CoPilot 382 offers a versatile, yet cost effective solution for coding and marking applications. The system is capable of running oilor solvent-based inks to print up to 4.2 inches (2.1 inches from a single head) of hi-resolution characters, razor sharp text, scannable bar codes, and great looking logos at 185dpi. For non-porous applications, users have the option of using Squid Ink’s solvent-based
The new Squid Streamline 5 CIJ printing system
Goldpack – www.goldpack.co.za
Squid Ink Coding and Marking Solutions CoPilot 382
SQ2 Printer
PZ Pilot Pro Printer
SQ Laser Printer
Installed and GUARANTEED by
Streamline 5 CAPE TOWN Tel: 021-534 0215 DURBAN Tel: 031-569 4199 JOHANNESBURG Tel: 011-312 4976 sales@goldpack.co.za www.goldpack.co.za
TAS 3319
INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING
The future of pharma packaging
Serialised coding is an excellent anti-counterfeiting measure. Serialisation is now a legal requirement for pharmaceutical products, in many countries around the world.
W
ith serialisation, each product or component is assigned a unique serial number or code,
making it possible to trace items as they move through the supply chain to the end user. These unique identifiers are printed using coding or marking equipment. The ability to track and trace each product and component throughout the supply chain – from origin to expiration –
With unique identifiers or seriliased codes on pharmaceutical packaging, all stakeholders in the supply chain can locate a product at any given point
makes it more difficult for counterfeiters to infiltrate the chain and pass off their products as authentic. Improved visibility is another reason why manufacturers implement serialisation. All stakeholders in the supply chain can locate a product or raw material at any given point.
THE BENEFITS OF FIX-A-FORM BOOKLET LABELS
Serialisation also helps to manage recalls more efficiently. It makes it much easier to locate and retract products, so fewer untainted products are recalled because batches are quickly identifiable.
Fix-a-Form labels are ideal for the 2D barcodes needed for serialisation How it works is the codes are generated randomly or sequentially. Once the codes have been purchased,
on packaging. Fix-a-Form informational booklet labels from Pyrotec PackMedia offer significant healthcare applications. They extend the space available for product descriptions
purchases
and user guidelines, safety messages
• information can be reproduced in multiple
and contraindications, dosage
languages, extending the reach of on-pack
instructions, medical device instructions
communication
and patient information leaflets. As an
• space to include 2D barcodes and other legislated information • elimination of separate packaging, leaflets or labels for wide product ranges
anti-counterfeiting measure, Fix-a-Form labels are ideal for the 2D barcodes needed for serialisation. Affixing to almost any package
• minimised packaging waste
surface, Fix-a-Form booklet labels offer
• labels are supplied on-reel for automatic
an innovative and space-efficient way
application using standard labelling
to communicate detailed product
machinery, resulting in uninterrupted
information as well as include legislated
production lines.
information without compromising on shelf appeal. They are available in a virtually unlimited range of shapes and
shipping case. The labels are scanned on the packaging line to determine where the unit must be packed.
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
label, or within the space provided
encourage correct product use and repeat
the labels of each saleable unit and
22
information does not fit on a standard
benefits for pharmaceutical and • clear, legible on-pack guidelines that
manufacturers print a 2D barcode onto
Some pharma manufacturers include codes to product packaging to aid compliance. When scanned with a smartphone, the QR code directs the patient to a website demonstrating how to use the product, such as an inhaler
healthcare product labelling, often this
Fix the challenge One of the challenges of serialisation is label redesign to allow space for the new 2D barcode. While legislation demands increasingly detailed information to be contained on pharmaceutical and
sizes, which can be tailored to meet packaging requirements. When fully implemented, serialisation will reduce theft and counterfeiting by increasing transparency and visibility throughout the supply chain. It will also increase the speed and reduce the cost of product recalls. •
Pyrotec PackMedia – www.packmedia.co.za
INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING
Keep an eye on the supply chain
GTINs on pharma products are rapidly becoming a pre-requisite for traceability from production to delivery to the patient. A locally produced solution is now available to manufacturers which takes into account the South African supply chain and landscape.
S
trato International, a division of the Techniques Group, provides leading edge track and trace serialisation and anti-counterfeiting packaging
solutions for the pharma, nutraceutical and cosmetics industry. Its range of machinery for carton coding will enable manufacturers and contract packaging companies to successfully implement serialisation, to comply with various market related requirements specified by global industry authorities. The Strato SPCC Station is a state of the art track and trace serialisation system that uses the integrated technologies of a Wolke m610 touch printer and a Sea Vison OCV solution to produce a SGTIN (Serialised Global Trade Item Number) in accordance with global standards and regulations.
DESIGNED WITH FUTURE PROOF SOLUTIONS • meets global and future regulations and standards • dual belt technology ensures precision carton control to comply with the A, B and C grades of ANSI/ISO print quality • simple, robust design with few moving parts • interactive 12 inch colour SPCC HMI for easy set up by pharmacode, SKU or item number
Integrated rejection system
• print and check verification • use of incremental sensors from in-feed to outfeed ensures integrity of each carton
cartoning machine on a line. The design allows easy integration into any carton
• minimal maintenance
packing line, due to its 1 000mm space
• integrated rejection system
requirement. Added functionality, such as
• up to two high speed vision cameras with high
tamper evident labeling can be added
speed connectivity
with “add-on” modules.
• remote assistance via Ethernet is offered for support and training.
Complies with GSI standards The print and check feature of the Strato
Strato SPCC track and trace system
The Strato SPCC Station includes track
SPCC applies a controlled machine code
and trace level 1 and level 2 hardware
(barcode/2D code) and human readable
and software that ensures cartons
data to the carton, using a managed in-line
are commissioned according to GS1
printer. The data (code and human
international coding standards.
readable) is then checked and verified by the OCV/OCR vision system for correct
Easy Integration
information and sustainability to ANSI
The SPCC station is equipped with all
grading A, B or C.•
the relevant features to be a standalone system with an option to be fed manually or inserted and synchronised after the
Strato International – www.techniquesgroup.co.za
STRATO SPCC – Serialization, Print, Check and Commission Anti-counterfeiting packaging solution for Pharmaceutical, Nutraceutical & Cosmetic Industry. Call our sales hotline 086 11 000 55 or email us info@techniquesgroup.co.za
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
23
INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING
Are you ready for 4.0? Better data management and improved efficiency are just two of the advantages of adopting industry 4.0 on a packaging line. Yet, with many packaging suppliers already operating on tight margins, making the complete switch may appear exorbitant.
O
f course, a modern, flexible and smart line offers the biggest benefits in a manufacturing environment. But if these upgrades are beyond your budget, Industry
4.0 experts at Omron Industrial Automation (Omron) suggest making small changes and focusing specifically on ways to boost efficiency. Most of the benefits of 4.0 come from having an
DID YOU KNOW?
integrated component and control platform, which allows seamless exchange of data
Industry 4.0 is about more than simply production. Smart, connected technologies can transform how products are designed, made, used and maintained. They can also transform organisations. Source: Deloitte Insights
between devices and the control system. Having access to component level data is a key enabling factor to realise the benefits. It is particularly beneficial on older equipment, even if some data is available, it’s typically
an on/off indication. For example, the machine is either operational or not. No granular information is available to indicate the machine’s capacity i.e. it’s not operating at full capacity because of
It is critical all machines communicate using standard protocols and common data sets
increasing wear on the motor bearings or accumulating dirt on an optical. Capturing data electronically is a good first step. This might require changing working processes to ensure data is logged correctly and not just scribbled illegibly on paper. Where data is already being captured by
Like, follow and start a conversation with us on social media! @PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview @pharmacosreview @SApharmacos
PCR house ad 1/4.indd 1
24
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
New Media Publishing, Ground Floor, Media Park 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2029 PO Box 784698, Sandton, 2146 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111 Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 2018/12/14 09:10
INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING equipment, it should be connected to a higher level IT domain or analytical software. Small technical upgrades may be required to add additional sensors to capture operating data, convert existing analogue information into a digital format or add a data communications module to provide remote data capture and control. Once the basic data capture process is place, it is then possible to start analysing the content to ascertain the efficiency of a line or identify potential bottlenecks in the process to allow for further improvements. It will also be possible to monitor device condition, enabling the benefits of preventative maintenance. Consider this – your inline labelling machine has a small fault. The operators know sometimes it needs to be adjusted to keep it running smoothly. Because it only takes a minute or two to fix, they’ve stopped tracking it
importantly, smart systems can even detect
completely. But over time, even a small fault could
potential issues before they occur, allowing
impact productivity.
preventive maintenance to be scheduled to
An efficient labelling line allows manufacturers to focus their resources elsewhere
ensure lines remain operational. •
A good understanding of how well a packaging line is running allows manufacturers to focus their resources on less efficient parts. It also helps them develop a strategy for migrating lines to enable smart, flexible production.
Omron – www.industrial.omron.co.za
In today’s FMCG market, product runs tend to be shorter and more diverse. Lines set up for a single product or those requiring extended periods for changeover can be significant causes of inefficiency. Retooling a line to support different types of products or automating
Achieve flexible production
changeover can bring substantial benefits.
with integrated robotics solutions
Speak the same language Whether you’re upgrading part of an existing line, or building a new one, it is critical all machines communicate using standard protocols and common data sets. Even a new line may have components from different suppliers, so making sure they all talk the same language is critical. For example, OPC UA is an open and secure communications standard widely used for Industry 4.0 applications. OPC UA is a cross-platform development of OPC (OLE for Process Control), first defined in 1995 by a number of players in automation together with Microsoft. OPC UA builds on the success of OPC, offering a platform independent solution that also includes model based
Delta Parallel robot Quattro and Hornet
data handling. line needs to provide standard interfaces for operators. Standards such as PackML define a series of modes and states to ensure a common HMI look and feel, as well as providing a common method of conveying important data
Smarter decision making Access to data in a common format equips operators and production controllers with what they need to make
SCARA robot eCobra
Mobile robot LD Series
The new Omron Robotic Automation enhances the most demanding manufacturing lines. Realize faster line start-up & change-over, implement easier to use technology & vertical line integration, and facilitate faster data capture & analysis to increase your in-line efficiency.
In addition to open communication, equipment on the
between machines.
Articulated robot Viper
Our industrial robotics range from articulated, SCARA, and DELTA to collaborative (mobile) robots that optimize the handling of varying lot sizes and diverse products, formats and qualities. Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions that give you a competitive edge! Discover how to improve your flexible production, contact us: +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za
informed decisions about the status of a packaging line. Issues can be identified and fixed quicker. More
robot_88,5x130_p&c_review_ad_enza_01.indd 1 P C Review |
| 25 12:52 FEBRUARY 2019 20-07-17
INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING
New software delivers added value Linx has upgraded its 8900 series of CIJ printers with new software. The series is now suitable for more applications and provides businesses with a number of new competitive advantages. Using the latest version of Linx
The enhancements have improved print speeds by as much as 33 percent The smartphone inspired screen on the 8900 series makes message selection, creation and printer operation faster than ever
T
can now be made remotely by the Linx support team. Customers can also choose to run the software upgrade at their convenience, saving valuable time and ensuring their Linx printers are equipped with the latest software and security features. ‘The series offers excellent new benefits to businesses across contract packaging, pharmaceutical, food
he Linx 8900 series, available in
printers and receive proactive advice
South Africa from J-Pak, is now
and maintenance from the Linx technical
capable of producing faster
support team.
print speeds and printing over
A new KPI dashboard has been added
longer throw distances. The series also
to the service, which users can access
promises error-proof date code changes
via a tablet, phone or PC. The dashboard
and quicker message editing, resulting in
shows whether production is on target
greater production output.
for each batch. This enables managers
When a message is selected or
changes, ensuring each batch finishes on
from a pre-defined range of dates
time and customers’ deadlines are met.
suitable for the product being coded. This makes editing quick and easy as there is no need to edit dates manually. When part of a message is inserted, edited or deleted, the remaining parts of the message move intelligently to best present the code. The enhancements have also improved print speeds by as much as 33 percent and up to 440m per minute. High speed production lines can now achieve higher resolution printing without compromising speed.
Advanced remote monitoring and control The latest version of Linx Printernet has just been released. This is the company’s secure cloud-based service, which enables operators to monitor and control their Linx 8900 printers remotely. It allows users to carry out printer setup, change messages, monitor the status of their
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
and beverage, and cabling, wiring and extrusion industries,’ comments John Tierney, marketing director at Linx Printing Technologies. ‘This is an example of how we continually strive to evolve our existing product ranges to offer the best option for companies that need to code onto products.’ •
to monitor production rates and make
updated, the operator simply chooses
26
Printernet, printer software updates
A Linx 8900 CIJ printer
J-Pak – www.jpak.co.za Linx – www.linx.co.za
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
Dive deep into
the beauty of the sea Marine environments are a great source of inspiration for natural and sustainable ingredients. They are home to the highest percentage of living biosphere on our planet and offer a rich source of inspiration for new product development in cosmetics. By Júlia Comas, Cristina Davi, Elena Cañadas, Núria Almiñana and Raquel Delgado
M
icroorganisms in oceans and rivers adapt to their
by 15 percent (p<0.05) and collagen density by 2.4 percent. It also
extreme and changing surroundings using different
helped smooth the skin with an improvement in skin homogeneity of
mechanisms. Depending on the origin, climate and
7.9 percent (p<0.01) and rejuvenated the microrelief structure by
environmental conditions, each microorganism
113 percent versus the placebo (see Figure 1).
produces distinctive secondary metabolites for survival and adaptation. These metabolites are of significant interest to the
A smoother silhouette
cosmetics industry because of their potential skin care benefits.
Actiphyte bladderwrack is an extract of Fucus vesiculosus,
Lipotec Active Ingredients’ marine beauty concept is based on a selection of algae extracts and biotechnological ingredients obtained from a conceptual journey of different marine locations worldwide.
a type of brown algae. Endemic to the North American and European Atlantic coasts and islands, such as the Canary Islands, bladderwrack can grow in a variety of environments, ranging from rocky shores to saline lagoons. In traditional medicine, bladderwrack was applied topically to
The result is a sustainable portfolio
treat burns and insect bites and to counteract the signs of ageing.
of speciality ingredients that
It was also used as a treatment for obesity and to reduce the
provide a complete range of
accumulation of cellulite.
benefits for all skin types.
Rejuvenated menopausal skin Cellynkage marine ingredient is an
The seaweed may work as an anticellulite ingredient due to its ability to inhibit adipogenesis
exopolysaccharide (EPS) obtained from Halomonas eurihalina
According to literature, the seaweed may work as an anti-cellulite
using biotechnology.
ingredient due to its ability to inhibit adipogenesis attributed to the
The microorganism
presence of sulphated polysaccharide fucoidan and iodine 1, 2.
inhabits the Agua
Fucoidan has been studied for its contribution to improve skin
Amarga salt marsh
elasticity for a firmer body, while bladderwrack has photoprotective
in Alicante, Spain.
benefits for reduced lipid peroxidation, thanks to fucoxanthin and
The ingredient helps
sulfated polyshaccaride compounds3, 4. These benefits make it a
enhance the overall
highly suitable ingredient for slimming and anti-cellulite preparations
communication
to obtain a smoother silhouette.
within the skin, among keratinocytes and
Replenish mature skin
between keratinocytes
Hyanify marine ingredient is an EPS obtained from the
and fibroblasts, resulting in an improved appearance of menopausal skin. A clinical study was performed on 20 menopausal women, who applied a cream with two percent of the marine ingredient on one half of the face and a placebo cream on the other, twice a day for 56 days. At the end of the treatment, results showed the ingredient increased epidermal thickness
biotechnological fermentation of a marine y-proteobacteria strain, isolated from the surface of a Laminaria alga. The alga is found in the extreme environment of the Aber Wrac’h estuary in Brittany, France. The marine ingredient has been proven to help stimulate the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and improve the appearance of the nasolabial folds of volunteers. Its replenishing effect was evaluated on a panel of 19 volunteers with nasolabial folds of moderate intensity. The volunteers applied a cream containing one percent of the marine ingredient, twice a day. Before the first application and after 14 and 28 days, skin topography was assessed using FOITS. Different wrinkle parameters were calculated using fringe projection 3D images.
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
27
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS softness5. Carrageenan is also believed to Figure 1: Representation of the microrelief structure of a volunteer
enhance lipolysis, acting as a coadjuvant in anti-cellulite treatments5, 6. Irish moss can also be used for its emollient properties, especially in formulations for hair and nail products, thanks to its ability to bind to keratin fibres6.
From sludge to perfect skin Obtained using biotechnology, Antarcticine marine ingredient is a
56 days
0 days
glylcoprotein from the marine extremophile strain Pseudoalteromonas antarctica NF3. The strain was isolated from sludge
At the end of the treatment, results
Moisture from the sea
showed the ingredient had reduced
Actiphyte Irish moss consists of an extract
Antarctica to create a marine ingredient
of Chondrus crispus. This red alga is native
that assists in offering cryoprotective
to the rocky coasts of the Celtic Sea.
properties on the skin and contributes to
maximum wrinkle depth by 19.6 percent (**p<0.01) and average wrinkle depth by 18.5 percent
Traditionally, the moss was a folk remedy
collected at the base of a glacier in
reducing the main signs of ageing.
(**p<0.01). Wrinkle circumference,
for many health ailments and as an
area and volume were also
emollient to improve the appearance of
female volunteers, presenting wrinkles
reduced by 15.3 percent (*p<0.05),
chapped skin.
on the face and signs of facial dryness.
According to literature, Irish moss is
17.2percent (**p<0.01) and
A clinical study was performed on 20
The subjects applied a cream with one
a major source of the linear sulphated
percent of the marine ingredient on one
polysaccharide carrageenan, which has
hemi-face and a placebo cream on
images facilitated the visualisation
multiple cosmetics benefits. Carrageenan
the other, twice a day for 30 days. They
of this replenishing effect and
is known for its ability to hold moisture â&#x20AC;&#x201C;
were then asked to spend an hour a day
rejuvenation (see Figure 2).
a contributing factor in improving skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s
outdoors in cold weather conditions.
27.0 percent (**p<0.01) respectively. Silicone patterns and digital
0 days
28 days
Figure 2: Images and 3D silicone patterns of a volunteer before and after treatment
0 days
28 days
Different parameters were evaluated at selected times of the study. At the end of the treatment, a 14.8 percent (p<0.001) increase in hydration was obtained, together with a 14.7 percent (p<0.001) decrease in TEWL. A firming activity was also achieved with a 9.2 percent (p<0.001) reduction in maximal deformation and a 6.1 percent (p<0.001) increase in overall elasticity. Skin redness caused by cold weather was another parameter evaluated during the study. Results showed a 4.5 percent (p<0.01) reduction in the erythema index.
Figure 3: Digital pictures of a volunteer before and after treatment
Skin profilometry was evaluated using a 3D scanner. These results revealed a
28
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS reduction in wrinkle depth and volume of 10.6 (p<0.01)
using this portfolio of marine ingredients, available in South Africa
and 9.3 percent (p<0.1) respectively. Digital images were
from Savannah Fine Chemicals. Divided into two main categories,
taken to provide supporting evidence of the ingredient’s efficacy (see Figure 3).
biotechnological or botanical, the different ingredients are complementary and can be used in combination to address the needs of any skin type. •
Asian algae for a fair complexion Actiphyte wakame is the extract of Undaria pinnatifida. This brown alga, native to the Sea of Japan, is both common and edible. It is served mostly in soups and salads in Japan and other countries worldwide.
REFERENCES 1.Burlando B. et al. Bladderwrack. Herbal Principles in Cosmetics: Properties and Mechanisms of Action. 82-86, 2010. 2.Kui-Jin K. et al. Fucoidan, a sulfated polysaccharide, inhibits adipogenesis through the
Traditionally, the extract was used for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antiviral benefits and it was known to have antiobesity properties too. According to literature, when applied, wakame is believed to have skin brightening effects, mostly due to its fucoxanthin content, which can reduce pigmentation7. The seaweed may also present elastase, collagenase and glycation inhibition properties. These properties can help lower degeneration of the skin while promoting the formation of new extracellular matrix proteins . The alga is also known to help 8
soothe the skin post inflammation9. These extensive benefits make Actiphyte wakame an ideal ingredient for products formulated for
mitogen-activated protein kinase pathway in 3T3-L1 preadipocytes. Life sciences. 86, 791-797, 2010. 3.Peng J. et al. Fucoxanthin, a Marine Carotenoid Present in Brown Seaweeds and Diatoms: Metabolism and Bioactivities Relevant to Human Health. Mar Drugs. 9(10):1806-1828, 2011. 4.Rodriguez-Jasso R., et al. Chemical composition and antioxidant activity of sulphated polysaccharides extracted from Fucus vesiculosus using different hydrothermal processes. Chemical Papers. 68(2):203-209, 2014. 5.Goldfaden G., Goldfaden R. Unique Peptide Repairs Aging Skin. Life Extension Magazine. 2013. 6.Burlando, B. et al. Irish moss. Herbal Principles in Cosmetics: Properties and Mechanisms of Action. 217-219, 2010. 7.Shimoda H. et al. Anti-pigmentary activity of fucoxanthin and its influence on skin mRNA expression of melanogenic molecules. J Pharm Pharmacol. 62(9):1137-45, 2010. 8.Fitton J.H. Topical Benefits of Two Fucoidant-Rich Extracts from Marine Macroalgae. Cosmetics. 2(2):66-81, 2015.
a fair complexion.
9.Khan M. Anti-inflammatory activities of methanol extracts from various seaweed species. Journal of Environmental Biology. 29(4):465-469, 2008.
A good match Lipotec Active Ingredients’ marine beauty concept demonstrates the enormous potential marine environments offer the cosmetics industry. A wide variety of skin care benefits can be obtained
Lipotec Active Ingredients – www.lipotec.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
MARINE BEAUTY
Underwater journey to pamper your skin
Immerse yourself with Lipotec™ in the underwater world to discover a selection of innovative active ingredients from marine origin, providing specific claims for different skin types and needs.
© 2016, 2017, 2019 The Lubrizol Corporation
Sin título-1 1
04/02/2019 16:01:55
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
29
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
Open innovation
– a powerful mechanism to drive change Steve Foots, Croda’s chief executive, talks to P C Review about open innovation, Since then, most R&D for textured and sustainability and how the curly hair types has moved from North global company’s team in America to its African operations. ‘In North America, Croda’s hair South Africa is changing care R&D focused specifically on two industry perceptions on different types of curly hair. Yet we soon African hair and skin. realised there are more than 16 types,’
Open innovation Croda aims to be the partner of choice for its customers, potential customers, academia and technology developers, to build new supply chains, evaluate disruptive technology and provide the market with solutions at a faster pace.
Foots explains. ‘This is a key example of
These developments are achieved
how being closer to market has given
through what the company calls ‘
he global speciality chemicals
Croda a sharp focus in its innovation
open innovation’.
company innovates for its
strategy, connecting the company
customers’ needs. To do so
with its customers, both big
successfully, Foots says Croda
and small, subsequently
By Abby Vorster
T
Mine Enustun, Steve Foots, Sebastien Moughli and Lumbidzani Moyo
works closely with its customers, employing
connecting our customers
a unique business model.
to their consumers.’
Over the past seven years, the global
The company’s
Croda provides those it
DID YOU KNOW?
works with, with access to specialist market,
60 percent of global companies practice open innovation, combining competitions with partnerships to solve complex problems.
company’s presence in emerging markets
team in South
has increased. Using regional centres, the
Africa has taken a
business has transferred its competitive
proactive approach
products, processes and expertise to
to generating real data
operations in Asia, Latin America and Africa,
on real African hair.
where they are tailored to local conditions.
Because hair care research
‘Croda has established technical teams,
With its open innovation programme,
Source: www.accenture.com
is an expensive and sensitive
formulation and product application knowledge in exchange for access to their world class knowledge, expertise, facilities and equipment. To date, Croda has
undertaken 400 projects with universities in the UK. It has also
sales teams, and production facilities in
process, strict ethics and protocols
acquired 12 technologies through its
some of the fastest growing economies
had to be established before the
open innovation programme. Croda
in the world, doubling its number of R&D
team began recruiting consumers
is internationalising the programme to
centres worldwide,’ says Foots. ‘This has
from the surrounding community. As
scout for next generation technologies in
put the company in the best position to
a result, Croda South Africa founded
Africa, particularly focusing on
understand what consumers really want and
the right programme, propelling the
locally developed, natural plant actives
to innovate for customers’ needs.’
global company to the forefront of
and ingredients.
research and innovation in the African
South Africa is a breeding ground for
hair care market.
innovation. Its plant diversity is the third
The Centre of Excellence for Africa at Croda South Africa was established in 2015.
30
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS Sustainable innovation
2012
2019
15 R&D laboratories in key locations
30 R&D laboratories located worldwide
Croda has a longstanding commitment to invest in sustainability and innovation. Sustainability is embedded in its strategic thinking and forms a crucial part of how the global business adds value to its customers. In October, Croda announced the official launch and certification of its ECO range of bio-based surfactants. These ingredients are designed to
largest in the world and presents a green
The company’s areas of interest for
meet increasing market demands for
goldmine for the global cosmetics industry.
open innovation include novel ingredients
sustainable, high performance ingredient
By creating wider ecosystems where
that offer performance benefits in the
options. The new 100 percent bio-based
everyone can contribute to innovation, local
personal care industry and new processing
and 100 percent renewable range of
communities can also be uplifted
technologies that allow Croda to
non-ionic surfactants is said to be the
and empowered.
manufacture products in a more efficient
widest commercially available and
and sustainable manner.
is certified to meet the criteria of
Foots comments: ‘We are interested in working with universities and
‘Over the next decade, winning
the USDA BioPreferred programme
strategic partners to identify next
companies of the world will be those that not
(www.biopreferred.gov). The
generation ingredients from the region
only deliver strong and consistent financial
ingredients are also manufactured
for cosmetics, hair care and personal
results but also strong and consistent
using renewable energy.
care applications. We can also help
non-financial results. This is achieved by
With the ECO range, Croda has
academic institutions and startups
uplifting communities, reducing emissions,
created a step change worldwide by
overcome the barriers they face when it
accelerating transition to renewable
offering bio-based and renewable
comes to commercialising
ingredients and focusing on sustainable
options that reduce reliance on fossil
their innovations.’
innovation,’ he adds.
fuels and lower the carbon footprint of these ingredients versus their petroleumbased alternatives. By simply replacing a petroleum-derived ingredient with its renewable variant, a significant improvement in bio-based content and renewability can be achieved without a sacrifice in product performance. Now customers won’t have to choose between meeting their sustainability goals and delivering high performance products to consumers – they can have the best of both worlds with Croda.•
Steve Foots, pictured centre, with the Croda South Africa personal care team
Croda – www.crodapersonalcare.com
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
31
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
Vantage broadens its portfolio Subsequent to regulatory approval, Vantage Specialty Chemicals, the vertically integrated provider of naturally derived ingredients, has acquired Leuna-Tenside, a manufacturer of specialty surfactants.
L
euna-Tenside (LTG) is based
and soap-free formulations in the
in Leuna, Germany, where it
personal care industry.
produces high quality niche products in small volumes,
using flexible manufacturing capabilities. LTG’s product portfolio includes anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and emulsifiers based on naturally derived ingredients. All its
A winning fit
DID YOU KNOW? Personal care is one of the
‘The acquisition of LTG is a transformational deal for
major end-users of speciality surfactants. These ingredients are used in a variety of products as foaming agents, dispersants, emulsifiers, solubilising agents, cleansers and conditioners.
products are used in various end markets. These include
Vantage that provides
manufacturing capacity and customer service.” Keval Patel, MD at HIG, Vantage’s
us with a strategic
holding company. ‘We are very excited
manufacturing footprint in
to add LTG to the Vantage platform.
Europe,’ comments Tiffany
This transaction fits our core strategic
Kyllmann, chief strategy officer of Vantage. ‘LTG’s
production facility is attractively located in Germany with products
plan to expand our manufacturing footprint globally with a core focus on the specialty personal care and food ingredients markets. We are very excited
personal care applications, soaps
and chemistries similar to those of
to partner with the LTG team as we grow
and detergents, industrial cleaning,
Vantage. The synergistic combination
our European business.’ •
lubricants and paints and coatings.
of LTG and Vantage will bring
This diverse offering will open up new
enhanced value for our customers
opportunities for Vantage in the fast
through a broader technology
growing category of sulphate-free
portfolio with expanded global
32
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
Vantage Specialty Chemicals – kim@lipo.co.za
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
Rethink how you formulate
skin care products There is a shift in consumers’ expectations when it comes to cosmetics. Brands need to reconsider their strategies for new product development to meet current market demands, such as clean beauty and immediate gratification.
25% of German consumers believe natural personal care products are better for the environment
45% of women from China, who use facial skin care products, plan to increase their usage of products formulated with plant based or herbal ingredients to improve their skin
50% of UK consumers look for products with natural ingredients when making skin care purchases
I
n the US, Nielsen reported skin care sales have only grown by two percent, while makeup enjoyed double digit growth
blurring and
over the past two years. What’s more
mattifying
interesting is the small amount of growth in
properties for skin
skin care sales actually came from makeup
care and makeup
inspired formulations, while traditional anti-
applications. These natural
ageing treatments stagnated.
fibres are sourced from hemp
This movement may reflect a new mindset for skin care consumers. While
with outstanding traceability. Natpur Fiber HS 50 and Natpur
anti-ageing benefits are still highly sought
Fiber HS 100 (INCI: Cellulose (and)
after, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
Pectin (and) Aqua (and) Hydrolysed
say consumers have a new appetite for
Vegetable Protein) are hemp shives
claims such as ‘healthier looking skin’,
sourced mainly from the historical
‘glowing complexion’ and ‘pro-aging’.
Champagne and Bourgogne regions,
This shift reflects the overall positive
in France.
lifestyles and habits of consumers. The other main drawback of traditional
The fibres can be used in various applications, including skin care,
skin care is its delayed efficacy, which
makeup, lipstick, mascara and hair care
doesn’t sit well with millennials who want
products. They offer good coverage,
instant gratification. New cosmetics
instant mattifying and blurring effects
formulations need to reflect this new
thanks to their high water and oil
paradigm, so brands will have to rethink
absorption. They smooth the appearance
how they approach skin care.
of fine lines and densify lashes and hair.
Cross-over products
They are also easily dispersible and light in colour.
Another sea of change in skin care is the
When compared with Covabead LH
clean beauty revolution. Beauty products
170, the most absorbent Sensient bead,
have become an extension of healthcare
Natpur Fiber HS 50 and Natpur Fiber
with more and more consumers wanting
HS 100 absorbed more macadamia oil
to know what’s in their products and why,
and water during clinical studies. Their
as they’re looking to make better choices
sweat absorption properties were also
about what they put on their skin.
significantly higher than Covabead LH 170.
A successful strategy to meet both the clean beauty and immediate gratification demands of the market, is to create crossover products that borrow from instant effects of makeup combined with the
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies has created a series of formulations to showcase its range of Natpur Fibers. These include a reconstructing fibre foundation; no filter face primer, with options of light and dark skin tones;
visible, long term effects of
sunflower volume mascara; and a pump
skin care. Not forgetting, all or
my hair dry shampoo. The formulations
most of the ingredients in your
and samples of Natpur Fibers are
formulation should be natural,
available on request from the South
or nature inspired, ethically
African office. •
sourced and traceable. Sensient Cosmetic Technologies’ Natpur Fiber range of hemp derived fibres will help you tick all the boxes thanks to their exceptional
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – www.sensient-cosmetics.com
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
33
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
Thicken oil, naturally!
Cold process emulsifiers offer a number of benefits. They help formulators create more sustainable formulations thanks to their reduced energy consumption without having to compromise on product performance.
S
ucragel is a cold process
Formulation guide: Men’s clay mask
emulsifier from Alchemy Ingredients. The emulsifier is used for oil in water emulsions
and it works as an oil thickener. It comes
Phase A
in liquid form making it easy to use. Oily gels formed with Sucragel will instantly
B
emulsify on contact with water. The emulsifier is based on sugar
C
chemistry developed by Alchemy Ingredients. It holds oil in place in a
Trade name
INCI
Sucragel XL
Glycerine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate, Sucrose Stearate
% w/w 20.0
Labrafac CC
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides
60.0
Fancor Abyssinian Oil
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil
11.5
‘Teamwork’ Fragrance
Parfum
Pink Clay
Kaolinite
5.0
Volcanic sand exfoliator 300
Volcanic Sand
3.0.
0.5
This clay mask detoxifies and cleanses men’s skin with gentle exfoliation
stable micro-emulsion and when water is added, the mix changes into a cream or a light lotion, offering countless possibilities. Alchemy Ingredients’ priority is to create innovative solutions for its customers, providing full technical support through a
DID YOU KNOW?
comprehensive website and training. Its range of 100 percent natural
Sucragel can be used to ingredients has been disperse up to five percent developed to provide essential oils or fragrance. an easy and effective Slowly stir the fragrance into the way to thicken oil or Sucragel using a propeller stirrer. water-based systems. The mixture should thicken Carst & Walker is the into a gel/paste, which will easily disperse into your South African agent for aqueous base. Alchemy Ingredients.
On trend and in demand The Ecocert and Cosmos approved Sucra range has been designed in response to market demands. There are five varieties of Sucragel available: CF; AP V2; XL; AOF and AOF
It can be used as an emulsifier to form fine, sprayable emulsions that can emulsify a high level of oil. Sucragel can also be used in lotions designed for wet wipe applications. To create a wet wipe lotion, simply dilute the Sucragel with water, add a small amount
To create a wet wipe lotion, simply dilute the Sucragel with water, add a small amount of a stabiliser and preserve
BIO. The latter is certified 92 percent organic and 100 percent natural,
of a stabiliser and preserve. Alternatively,
according to the Cosmos standard.
if you want additional oils in the solution,
Sucragel allows the formulator to
stir these into the Sucragel and then
make stable transparent gels with
dilute with water. Sucragel offers the
a high (over 90%) proportion of oil.
additional benefit of allowing the lotion
Most types of oil can be used with the
to be shipped as a ‘concentrate’, to be
ingredient, such as vegetable oils,
used when needed. •
esters, silicones and any non-polar material should be compatible. Sucragel forms viscoelastic gels that are easy to pick up and have the added property of turning to milk when water is added.
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| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
Alchemy Ingredients – www.alchemy-ingredients.com Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za
extreme styles that hold — aquastyle 300 n ™
styling polymer
AquaStyle™ 300 N multifunctional fixative and styling polymer is the ideal solution to create durable styles that last all day. This versatile film former can be applied to wet or dry hair to create extreme styling effects while protecting your hair from the elements. Its film properties help deliver a brilliant and alluring shine and control frizz on hair while creating a barrier to shield hair against pollution and the effects of urban living. ashland.com/aquastyle
Value through expertise ® Registered trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries ™ Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries, registered in various countries ©2017, Ashland PHC18-108
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
100% natural and effective formulations are possible! The thought of transitioning your brand to a more natural formulation or using more natural ingredients in new product development can be seem overwhelming. Yet it doesn’t have to be, thank to Greentech, which offer key actives and extracts for 100 percent natural and effective formulations.
N
ature is a source of molecules of
medicine. It recreates the volume and the
on the key biological targets of senescence,
interest for the cosmetics industry.
relief of a young skin through a double youth
it boosts the cutaneous architecture
Plants and microorganisms
effect. Reverskin anchors the epidermis in
and maintains skin beauty, even after 60
synthesise metabolites to defend
the dermis and protects the fibrous network
years of age. Hebelys was developed in
against environmental aggressors and
of the skin’s matrix. Restructured, skin
collaboration with Deinove sourced from
survive in hostile habitats. The R&D team
appears more elastic, suppler and firmer.
Sphingomonas hydrophobicum. This
at Greentech is inspired by these defense
Cutaneous relief is re-organised, wrinkles
microorganism has the capability to utilise
mechanisms and adapts them to the
and fine lines are smoothed.
a wide range of organic compounds and to
mechanisms of the skin. The company
grow and survive in a stressful environment.
extracts and concentrates these assets
A 360° Photoprotector
Hebelys embraces the beauty of maturity,
from plants, algae, micro-algae or
Soliberine is sourced from Buddleja officinalis
targeting senescent cells and it has a
microorganisms to create natural actives.
flowers, or the butterflybush, which grows in
psychological benefit.
an area of the sacred mountains in Sichuan
Reverse visible signs of ageing
province where the average altitude is
The beauty of fermentation
Reverskin is a powerful cellular booster. The
between 400 to 580m. Selected for its
Thanks to its multidisciplinary capacity,
active ingredient is ultra-concentrated in
exceptional richness in phenylpropanoids,
the Greentech Group uses fermentation
Phytoecdysterols, extracted from Microsorum
the purified fraction of flowers is highly
to potentiate the properties of nature.
grossum, one of the most frequently used
concentrated in verbascoside and
Fermentation has several advantages:
fern species in Polynesian traditional
echinacoside. Soliberine acts against all
• concentration of active compounds
The fermentation process increases the concentration of AHAs expressed in lactic acid by 38 percent 36
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
damages induced by solar rays, including blue light, thanks to a dual power of protection and stimulation. The multifunctional active preserves the youthful appearance of the skin, preventing inflammation, redness and
(AHAs and phenolic compounds) • biotransformation of the components into active molecules of interest • obtaining of new biological and functional properties (exfoliator, moisturiser and antioxidant)
premature ageing.
• increased bioavailability of compounds.
Positive ageing starts now
been offering highly active and innovative
Hebelys is linked to the concept of well-
fermented extracts under the tradename,
ageing by sublimating the skin. By acting
Ferment’Actives. These extracts and other
For more than five years, Greentech has
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS natural actives from Greentech are available
acid by 38 percent, such as those present in
especially those known to be irritating,
in South Africa from Natchem.
the raspberry for example.
thanks to a solution proposed by Greentech.
Greentech uses this process to improve
The solution is Aquasiloils. These are water soluble oils based on an innovative alliance
especially in fruits, which are known for
Functionals to ease formulation challenges
their regenerating properties. For example,
At this stage it’s not completely possible
triglycerides of natural fatty acids derived
the fermentation process increases the
to eliminate chemical surfactants from
from inca inchi, argan or sweet almond oils.
concentration of AHAs expressed in lactic
formulations. However, they can be limited,
the concentration of AHAs, found
between lysine, essential amino acid and
The water soluble oils have biological and technical benefits shown in Figure 1.
Figure 1: Interface tension of Aquasiloils measured with a Tracker automated drop tensiometer, showing the cleansing properties of the water soluble oils
When formulated in a micellar lotion, the oils offer cleansing and foaming benefits while preserving the skin by improving moisturisation.
Buyer’sguide
Formulators can also decrease surfactant
load in a formulation with Greensofts
three in one actives. These simultaneously
THE
self-emulsifying fats for the oil phase and
biological activity boosters are extremely
sensorial, soft and silky to touch. Nutritional by essence, they provide the biological activities of their base vegetable oils, combined with the effectiveness of
2017/2018
active molecules. •
Greentech – www.greentech.fr Natchem – www.natchem.co.za
THE
Buyer’sguide 2018/2019
The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry
Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1
2018/05/07 3:09 PM
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
37
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
The beauty of moringa changes farmers’ lives
The Moringa Cooperative project is set to benefit 60 farmers from the Blouberg municipality in Limpopo. It is aimed at creating jobs, alleviating poverty and contributing towards the socioeconomic development of local communities. The power of uplifting communities
Africa of the Employment for Sustainable
Gregory Petersen, senior commercial
explains: ‘It is important from the
manager ESD, De Beers Consolidated
perspective GIZ that knowledge transfer
Mines, comments: ‘We are pleased to
occurs within the community. Over the
partner in this project because of the
course of the project, we will be re-
difference it is going to make to people in
enforcing this with multiple trainings,
our host communities, through capacity
workshops and mentorship support.’
Development in Africa Programme,
building and job creation. We are also looking forward to the future opportunities
A good plan for the future
of the project, such as shared learnings
The infrastructural phase of the project
and strategic partnerships.’
is currently underway, financed by the IDC, Old Mutual, De Beers Group and
Will Coetsee, MD, Botanica Natural Products, adds: ‘We designed this project to source better quality raw materials, which
DID YOU KNOW?
supported by Botanica Natural Products, to provide the participating farms with
The project aims to initially create 100 jobs for every 20 to our clients locally and hectares of Moringa trees globally. To date, we planted, with the intention to have imported Moringa grow in scale, potentially seeds and leaves without creating a total 300 jobs having full traceability of the by 2020. we can process and sell
One of the famers from the Blouberg municipality who will benefit from the project
products we process. Through the success of this project, we will be
fencing, soil preparation and effective irrigation systems. The first set of Moringa trees are expected to be planted by March 2019. ‘Old Mutual is an
organisation that is driven on the mutually beneficial shared
able to have high quality, fully traceable
value principle of operating as a
he project is a strategic
ingredients to process and sell. This is
responsible business and ensuring
collaborative partnership
also an opportunity for us to attract and
that our interventions are sustainable,
between the De Beers Group,
retain highly talented individuals from
impactful and beneficial to all involved.
Botanica Natural Products, the GIZ
surrounding communities. Employment
We are delighted to play our part in this
(Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale
opportunities in our communities are
collaborative and exciting venture with
Zusammenarbeit, which implements
limited. By creating a successful and
our partners and look forward to once
projects on behalf of the German Federal
lucrative supply chain, Botanica will
again demonstrating how through
Ministry of Economic Cooperation and
also be able to attract and retain better
partnerships, collaboration and the
Development), Old Mutual Limited and
equipped and qualified personnel.’
benefit of economies of scale can enable
T
the Industrial Development Corporation
Critical to the project is not just the
us all to Do Great Things Every Day,’ says
(IDC). Each of the partners is contributing
provision of financial or infrastructural
Dianne Richards, enterprise development
towards sustainable development support,
support but also the empowerment of
manager at Old Mutual Foundation.
infrastructure or funding.
the outgrowers through non-financial
Stephen Nel, senior local economic
support programmes. These include
development manager for IDC,
was established in November 2018. It is
a capacity building programme
comments: ‘The IDC is very excited local
made up of three cooperatives, each
facilitated by GIZ, as well as ‘train the
entrepreneurs now have the opportunity
consisting of 20 outgrowers, located within
trainer’ workshops hosted within local
to create job opportunities in their
three local traditional areas in Alldays,
communities. These workshops aim to
communities. This will most certainly lead
Blouberg. The participating cooperatives
equip the outgrowers with the necessary
to the social and economic upliftment of
are contracted to grow Moringa trees and
business development skills, acumen
their respective communities. Hopefully
supply the leaves and seeds to Botanica
and agricultural training required. The
the partnerships formed between
Natural Products, which produces
cooperatives will also be assigned a
Botanica, GIZ, De Beers and Old Mutual
organically certified and fairly traded
mentor from De Beers, who will coach
will create a model we can roll out in
active ingredients for cosmetics and
them on business and financial matters.
future to many other communities in need
A ground-breaking agricultural project
nutraceutical producers.
38
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
Gavin Watson, project lead South
of such interventions.’ •
SPECIALITY INGREDIENTS
Use W/Si emulsifier technology to your advantage Emulsions form the back bone of most cosmetics, from lotions and foundations to conditioners and cleansers. Silicone emulsifiers, such as Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone have a long history of use in the personal care industry.
S
ilicone emulsifiers are mainly
is broken. This preserves their benefit(s)
Many formulators attempt to achieve a
used to manufacture water-in-
prior to use.
stable emulsion by reducing the particle
silicone (W/Si) emulsions with low HLBs. These silicone emulsifiers
Utilising W/Si emulsifiers for skin care
size of their formulation and increasing
applications is advantageous for all
the mixing speed in the lab during
were critical in the development of
parties involved:
development. While this approach may
the first clear antiperspirant gels and
1. the supplier of the emulsifier gets to sell
achieve a stable sample emulsion, during
are now widely utilised in beauty care
the product
applications, including colour cosmetics,
full scale production, such high mixing
2. the manufacturer designs a cost-
speeds are not achievable, resulting in an
skin and sun care. They’re also used in
effective product because a
antiperspirants and deodorants.
formulation can contain between 50 to
Due to regulatory concerns,
82 percent aqueous phase, minimising
a lab, during scale-up and production, is to
formulation cost
utilise a mixer tip speed of 274m per minute.
formulators have chosen to reduce the use of cyclopentasiloxane in product
3. consumers with dry skin concerns have
unstable broken emulsion being produced. A simple mixing guideline, achievable in
This standardises the amount of energy
design. This has driven ingredients
access to a luxurious end product to
at every step of the scale-up process and
suppliers to develop Dimethicone (and)
address their primary skin concern.
provides a greater chance of success in the
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone – Andisil SP
Because the aqueous phase is the
518 and Andisil SP 518C. The original line
internal phase of the emulsion,
development process.
of Andisil specialty silicone products are
the consumer does not experience a
be evaluated in several ways. The most
manufactured by AB Specialty Silicones
cooling effect after applying
common methods include:
in the US and distributed locally by Afrisil.
the product.
• a minimum of five cycles of freezing
The stability of a W/Si emulsion can
and thawing
A basic guide to formulating a thick, hydrating skin cream:
• room temperature stability for 120 days
Water Phase
Silicone Phase
• heat stability, though this method varies
DI Water – 40 wt. % Glycerine – 40 wt. %
Andisil SP 518 – 10 wt. % Cyclopentasiloxane – 10 wt. %
or longer greatly from customer to customer, 40 degrees Celsius at 90 days is a good starting point • centrifugation, though sample size
Exceptional benefits
Stability guaranteed
Clear formulations can be achieved by
Creating stable emulsions requires foresight
matching the refractive index of the two
to produce a stable product when scaling
phases within a range of 0.0003 or less. This process has been achieved in production size quantities, both in
up sample formulations to full size production quantities. A silicone emulsifier is the enabling technology for producing
and RPM conditions vary by customer and equipment • finger rub test whereby a small sample of the final product is rubbed on a dark countertop and observed for water droplets breaking out of the final emulsion. W/Si emulsifiers can be used in a wide
batch and continuous
a stable W/Si emulsion
variety of personal care applications. They
process manufacturing
and not just an aesthetics
are a valuable tool to formulators who
facilities. Water sensitive
additive. The viscosity of the
design innovative products for today’s
actives can also be
final commercial product
savvy consumers. •
incorporated into the silicone
is determined by the
phase during processing.
percentage of aqueous
These actives are released onto
phase compared to the
the skin during application
anhydrous phase.
AB Specialty Silicones – www.andisil.com Afrisil – karin@afrisil.com
when the emulsion
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
39
INDUSTRY TALK
Private label surges ahead
South African shoppers are savvier than ever; they seek value from retailers and are willing to put in the extra effort to get what they want at the right price. According to Nielsen, private label sales are increasing as a result.
S
ales of private label products
trust consumers have in private label
growth driver in 2018 was the middle
in South Africa now equate to
products and their willingness to use
LSMs, which contributed approximately
R49.3 billion annually. The segment
them in categories previously reserved
30 percent of sales.
commands a healthy 21.1 percent
for trusted brand names, which include
Paterson explains: ‘Compared to
share of the South African retail sector,
diapers and pet food categories,’ he
previous years, when trusted brands
up from 20 percent in 2017 and ahead of
adds.
were preferred and making the
branded product growth in the country.
switch was not an option, lower LSMs
These insights are taken from the 2018
Growth drivers
have shown they’re now willing to try
Nielsen report on State of Private Label in
The majority of consumers say they buy
private label products within certain
South Africa, published in December.
private label products because they
staple categories.’
Nielsen’s research on the private label
are cheaper. Looking at the deeper
This is because lower LSMs don’t
segment covered 155 categories, within
dynamics within the category and the
have as much access to private
eight supergroups and across a range of
reasons for its healthy performance,
label products as the majority of their
leading local retail chains and groups in
the 2018 Nielsen Shopper Trends
shopping is done within traditional
South Africa.
report found 77 percent of shoppers compare the prices of store
77 percent of shoppers compare the prices of store brands with leading branded goods ‘Recent years have shown an upward trend in the category, with improving
brands with leading branded goods. The value for money proposition of private label is also seen to be a major popularity factor. The quality of products is perceived to be improving and the number of people
trade outlets. However, some retailers have expanded to previously
DID YOU KNOW?
underserved areas, bringing private labels to more
Approximately 20 percent of Clicks’ product range is made up of private and confined label goods. These are used strategically to recruit new shoppers and to provide a point of differentiation in competitive categories, such as baby and supplements. Source: www.
recommending them
tradeintelligence.co.za
is increasing. A total of 55 percent of private label
South Africans, resulting in a shift in perceptions and more willingness to try private label brands. With South Africa poised to benefit from a growing middle class,
urbanisation and increasing modern trade access, the
segment will continue to carve out a
consumer perceptions around the quality
product sales originate from South
healthy share of retail sales within the
and value of private label products. This is
African consumers LSM 7-10. Yet the
next five years. This is off the back of
driven by a greater focus from retailers to develop value for money offerings, resulting
good growth over the past three years. ‘Overall, there is a clear focus from
in increased innovation and differentiation
retailers to up private label’s share of
within this space,’ comments Gareth
their sales. This includes a heightened
Paterson, Nielsen South Africa’s retail lead.
focus on developing premium and
Consumers’ perceptions of private label
niche private label products with
have improved, contributing to an increase
enhanced labelling, which bodes well
in their willingness to try these products
for the rapid evolution of this sector,’
across multiple categories.
Paterson concludes. •
‘We are seeing previously smaller supergroups in the segment, such as baby care, personal care and confectionary, achieving double digit growth – well ahead of branded product growth. This shows the
40
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
Nielsen South Africa – www.nielsen.com/za
Precision Global’s new Tornado 35mm twist lock actuator
SUN CARE
New valve and actuator to spray away sunburn The sun care category is scorching hot – which is good news both for consumers and manufacturers. Thanks to the innovative solutions available from suppliers to the category, there are endless options of products and formats available to meet consumers’ various needs, from aerosols and sprayable mists to roll on sunscreens.
P
recision Global has recently launched a new Tornado 35mm twist lock actuator, suitable for use in sun care, cosmetics, hair and personal care applications. The actuator has a short skirt and is cup fitting, making it suitable for use on any size can.
A variety of standard spray inserts are available to suit numerous applications and colour combinations can be customised to match brand requirements.
New up/down valve The company also offers a valve suitable for dispensing in any position. Precision Global’s valve adds value to any application that requires the can to be held upside down or sideways. This is particularly beneficial for sun care applications or insect repellent to overcome the frustration of trying to apply a spray on product on the lower legs, feet or ankles. The PV 360° valve (also known as the up/down valve) sprays reliably regardless of the can’s position. Used upright or upside down, the valve
Precision Valve SA (PTY) Ltd phone: +27 12 541 3340 email: teresa.pereira@precisionglobal.com
assures correct function and constant spray quality. The up/down valve can be filled with existing filling equipment, no modifications or adaptations are required on the filling line. It behaves in exactly the same way as a Super 90 valve. The propellant/ product ratio remains constant during use, irrespective of the position of the can. Another benefit of this valve is it pairs well with low propellant level products and especially compressed gas systems, such as CO² and N². The new 35mm twist lock actuator and PV 360° valve are available locally from Precision Valve South Africa. •
Precision Global – www.precisionglobal.com
www.precisionglobal.com
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
41
SUN CARE
Sun protection and consumer safety
With its fast rising incident rate, skin cancer is one of the most common cancers worldwide. As a result, sunscreens have become essential personal care ingredients, formulated in everything from traditional sun protection and daily skin care to hair care, colour cosmetics and bath and shower products. By Anina van der Walt, CTFA’s head of regulatory affairs and policy analysis
I
n the context of the South African climate, sun protection is vital. Sunscreen application is the main strategy used to prevent sunburn and
harmful skin conditions caused by the UV-A and UV-B exposure. There is sufficient evidence to show overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the main and preventable cause of skin cancers. South Africa has the second highest skin cancer incidence rate in the world. Cancer of the skin is also ranked among the top 10 cancers, which contribute significantly to morbidity in our country. Some of the highest reported cases of melanoma in the world can be traced back to South Africa (Cancer Treat Rev. 2011;37 (6):465–475). In regulatory terms, sun protection products are regarded as ‘high risk’ products. Consumers and brand owners
Recognised ISO & SANS standards • SANS 1557 sunscreen products • in vivo determination of the SPF
(ISO 24444)
• in vivo determination of sunscreen UVA protection (ISO 24442) • water resistance – water immersion procedure (ISO 16217) • determination of the percentage of water resistance (ISO 18861) • determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro (ISO/
care products adhere to the strictest guidelines. In the industry’s current selfregulated environment, brand owners and manufacturers should be ethical at all times and diligently adhere to the applicable guidelines and standards when claiming UV protection. The responsibility and liability of placing a sun protection product on the South African market is assigned to the Responsible Person (RP). The RP should safeguard the consumer by recognising the gravity of their responsibility when it comes to placing a sun protection product on the market. •
SANS 24443)
• in vitro determination of SPF (ISO 23675) • measurement of the sunscreen efficacy by diffuse reflectance (ISO 23698)
COMPLIANCE IS A MUST
must bear this in mind to understand APART FROM THE draft regulations, which are due for
Brand owners should be ethical at all times and diligently adhere to the applicable guidelines and standards when claiming UV protection
December 2017 (Government Gazette No.
promulgation, formulators and R&D scientists need
10790, Vol 630 (41351)). Regulation 7(1)
to take countless standards into consideration when
Product Composition, states: ‘no person
developing sun care products.
may manufacture or import or distribute
In addition to standard test methods, to ensure
for sale any cosmetic containing – (e) a
consumer safety, sunscreen products should comply
UV Filter other than those listed in Annex
with the Cosmetic Toiletry & Fragrance Association
V and/or UV Filters that are listed there,
(CTFA) Bridging-the-Gap Compendium, Annex VI: List
but not used according to the conditions
of UV Filters Allowed in Cosmetic Products.
of use and with warnings printed on the label as laid down in the said Annex’.
Safety first
RP’s also need to ensure compliance to other relevant statutory requirements, such as SANS 98 (ingredient labelling of cosmetic products), SANS 1937 (cosmetics products – quantity and marking) and
It is imperative that local standards and
SANS 289 (labelling requirements for pre-packaged
impending regulations are updated and
products and general requirements for the sale of
why a greater degree of consideration of
aligned with international guidelines and
goods subject to legal metrology control).
consumer safety and product efficacy are
scientifically validated safety concerns,
required during product design and in
to ensure products produced in South
standards and guidelines relating to ingredients in
terms of claim substantiation.
Africa are safe for human use.
cosmetics, safety data, permitted application and
Draft regulations in the South African
Due to the sunny South African climate,
International standards such as ISO, local SANS
applicable ingredient usage etc. are living documents,
Foodstuffs, Cosmetics and Disinfectants
SABS, the impending regulator – the
which are constantly being reworked/updated as new
act, 1972 (Act no. 54 of 1972), relating
National Department of Health – and
information is made available by accredited scientific
to the labelling, advertising, and
the industry association, the CTFA are
research teams. These reviews and updates are based
composition of cosmetics (R. 1469) were
aware of the significance associated
on new technology and public information.
published for industry comment on 22
with compliance. This is to ensure sun
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| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
SUN CARE
Coral friendly sunscreens
I
n May 2018, social media buzzed
that is responsible for nutrient release,
with the news of Hawaii being the
food chain coordination and protecting
first US state to ban the sale of
coastlines from storms and wave damage.
• cream come true SPF70 W/O mineral
and octinoxate. The decision was based
Reducing the options
• sport sunscreen SPF70 (JZ12-207B)
on the coral bleaching phenomenon.
According to Hallstar, the recent mandate
• beach sunscreen spray SPF70 (JZ12-167B)
Coral bleaching occurs when abnormal
from the US State of Hawaii for oxybenzone-
• ultra-high SPF100 spray (JZ12-170)
environmental conditions cause coral to
free and octinoxate-free sunscreens limits
expel tiny photosynthetic algae, called
the UV filters available to formulators,
available locally from Millchem, Hallstar’s
zooxanthellae. According to the ARC
particularly for high SPF products. Other
agent in South Africa. The formulations
Centre of Excellence, the loss of colourful
countries have already adopted similar
are all in vivo tested for SPF and 80
algae causes coral to turn white or
regulations and the speciality chemicals
minute water resistance and they have
‘bleach’. The condition is reversible and
company expects more will follow.
passed three month shelf stability. More
sunscreens containing oxybenzone
bleached coral can recover, but only if the
• Broad Spectrum SPF50 O/W sunscreen lotion (JZ9-89) sunscreen (JZ12-227B)
Thanks to Hallstar’s years of experience
The full range of formulation guides are
importantly, these formulations do not
temperature drops and zooxanthellae
in creating globally compliant formulations
contain octinoxate or oxybenzone. Instead,
are able to recolonise them, otherwise it
with photostabilisers that optimise filter
photostabilisers HallBrite BHB, SolaStay S1,
may die.
performance compliant, the company has
Polycrylene and HallBrite PSF are used the
produced a range of coral friendly sun
while the HallBrite range of TiO2 and ZNO
the most common sunscreen ingredients
care formulations. These include:
dispersions are used. •
used worldwide. Studies have shown even
• light and non-greasy sunscreen cream
Oxybenzone and octinoxate are two of
the smallest amount of oxybenzone can
SPF30 (JZ11-138B)
cause coral to bleach rapidly – eliminating
• anti-sand sunscreen gel SPF50 (JZ12-20B)
an essential part of the marine ecosystem
• clog-free zinc spray SPF50 (JZ12-226)
Hallstar – www.hallstar.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
43
PACKAGING INNOVATION & DESIGN
Use captivating design to strengthen your brand Beauty brands, regardless of their positioning, have a common goal when it comes to packaging design – to ‘wow’ consumers. Secondary packaging is usually the first part of a product seen or touched by consumers, making it a critical part of the brand experience.
We have extended our global packaging services expertise
was named the winner in Metsä Board’s Better with Less – Design Challenge in 2018. Numminen joins Metsä Board from the packaging design team at Pa-Hu Oy, a manufacturer of corrugated board and packaging solutions. Ilkka Harju, packaging services director for the EMEA region, comments: ‘We are pleased to have extended our global packaging services expertise with the appointments of Marko and Iiro. Both
Ilkka Harju, Iiro Numminen and Marko Leiviskä
T
o create lighter, more
mills. This experience has given
are highly experienced designers with
him a unique perspective on
extensive knowledge of the requirements
how packaging can strengthen
for sustainable, efficient and high impact
a brand. This role at Metsä Board
branding and packaging.’
will allow Leiviskä to make the
environmentally friendly and
most of his technical skills in design and
Eco-barrier paperboard
efficient packaging through
brand strategy. Leiviskä joins Metsä Board
The new eco-barrier paperboard, Metsä
collaborative projects with
from OneMusketeer Oy, where he worked
Board Pro FSB EB1, has achieved the
as an entrepreneur and head of design.
industrial compostability certification,
its customers, Metsä Board operates packaging service teams in three
Iiro Numminen, Metsä Board’s new
which complys with DIN EN 13432 and
continents. Its packaging design teams
structural packaging designer, has
ASTM D6400 standards. The certification
in Europe, the Americas and AsiaPacific
worked as a structural designer for
is issued by DIN Certco and the testing
have been strengthened with new design
almost eight years. He has a deep
was carried out by ISEGA Laboratories.
expertise, following the appointments of
knowledge of production methods
Marko Leiviskä and Iiro Numminen.
related to the conversion of paperboard
director at Metsä Board, comments
Katja Tuomola, business development
as well as digital tools. Numminen
on the significance of the certification:
graphic packaging designer, has a
constantly seeks new and innovative
‘Brand owners are looking for new,
strong global background working for
ways to use the fibre based materials. His
more ecological solutions made of
brand owners, converters and board
latest innovation ‘Stretching Inner Part’
renewable, non-plastic materials, which
Marko Leiviskä, Metsä Board’s new
44
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
PACKAGING INNOVATION & DESIGN can be composted and recycled. This external certification gives them choice when it comes to packaging materials that truly comply with their disposal requirements.’ The DIN EN 13432 standard refers to Requirements for Packaging Recoverable through Composting and Biodegradation. US certification ASTM D 6400-12 covers the Standard Specification for Labelling of Plastics Designed to be Aerobically Composted in Municipal or Industrial Facilities. The non-plastic special barrier treatment developed for Metsä Board Pro FSB EB1 improves the grease resistance of the board. This can be enhanced cost-efficiently during the converting stage with the addition of just one layer of varnish. No optical brighteners or fluorochemicals are used in the production of Metsä Board Pro FSB EB1. It is available in basis weights of 195 to 320g/m2 and can be recycled with paper and board recycling schemes. Metsä Board’s products and solutions are available locally from Paperforce. •
Metsä Board – www.metsaboard.com Paperforce – roy@paperforce.co.za
The new eco-barrier paperboard, Metsä Board Pro FSB EB1 is suitable for cosmetics, pharma and food packaging
Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz
Sensetek.indd 1
2017/03/02 11:50 AM
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
45
PRESERVATIVES
Chem Systems presents the TroyCare LSB range of alternative preservation systems, addressing the market demand for effective, safer and greener options of antimicrobial protection. These systems are also easy to formulate with and cost effective. By Jacques Strydom
A natural choice for
F
ormulators are faced with immense
differ range from natural and synthetic sourcing, to
challenges both from a regulatory perspective
efficacy, cost and effective pH ranges.
and changing market trends. The EU (ASEAN) Positive List (Annex V) contains 59
ChemSystems’ technology partner, Troy is at the forefront of innovation in the personal care and
preservatives, of which only a few are not under
cosmetics industry. The company has invested in
scrutiny and subject to review. The list of options for
R&D to identify the best performing organic acids,
formulators to choose from is slowly diminishing.
with the least amount of compromises, all while
Consumers are also more aware of the active
staying true to the scope of natural and nature
ingredients in their personal care products,
identical substances. With its R&D, Troy’s focus was
driving the market towards preservative-free and
to optimise three main shortcomings: effective pH
green products. The outcome of these trends
range; efficacy range; and cost.
is an increasing need for alternative means of
Formulators who have worked with organic
preservation, including fragrances and emollients
acids or natural preservation will know the ceiling
with efficacy boosting properties as a secondary
of effective pH range is on the lower side of the
benefit. Unfortunately, these materials struggle to
scale, due to the change in the molecule’s level of
hold up against classic preservatives in terms of cost,
dissociation over a pH range.
efficacy and ease of use. Newly registered preservatives are very rare, in
Troy also addressed the limited efficacy scope of organic acids, creating broad spectrum blends
fact only two new preservatives have been added to
proven to protect a product against bacteria and
Europe’s Annex V in the last 15 years and few, if any,
fungi. The company has also created solutions
are expected in the near future.
that don’t pose a significant cost increase to the formulator, compared to existing preservatives.
New in alternatives
Thanks to extensive evaluation and R&D
The market has seen some fascinating
processes, Troy has developed a unique range of
developments in alternative preservation systems in
natural and sustainable organic acid preservation
the last five to 10 years, yet these developments often
systems, suitable for the formulations of tomorrow.
come with a level of compromise. Although natural
The TroyCare LSB family of organic acid based
and nature identical substances have gained
preservatives addresses growing regulatory
popularity due to their perceived green status,
pressures and ever-changing market demands,
the drawbacks have been significant. These
making it a natural choice for antimicrobial
include cost, high usage levels, limited micro-
protection. These next generation solutions offer the
efficacy and difficulty of use. Some consumers are
formulator an effective broad spectrum product,
willing to absorb the cost for the sake of a more
with more natural, milder and safer attributes,
sustainable lifestyle, but the majority of the market
that’s easy to use. For the consumer, a simple,
find it hard to justify the cost.
customer-friendly INCI listing brings reassurance,
Not all alternative or natural preservatives share
emphasised by its origin from natural or nature
these limitations. One class of substances known
identical sources. This expanding range of products
as organic acids are not only perceived as natural
rests on the foundation of levulinic, sorbic and
and safer, they are also more cost-effective options
benzoic acids, in some cases accompanied by
for preservation.
additional components that extend the benefits of
Organic acids have a long history of use in food preservation, especially in Europe, where they are used at twice the rate compared to the rest of the world. Contrary to most common preservatives, organic acids face fewer restrictions by any regulatory body on a global scale. Many are compliant with Cosmos natural certification, one of the highest regarded standards in the market.
Natural and sustainable While using organic acids for preservation sounds attractive, the idea isn’t without its challenges. Organic acids exist in a wide variety, each with its own benefits and drawbacks. The properties that
46
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
Figure 1: LSB1 used at 0.4 percent in a pH 5.5 wash-off application
PRESERVATIVES
antimicrobial protection the maximum effective pH range tailored to
resulting in much lower formulation costs,
and 3 illustrate the exceptional ability of
the formulator’s needs.
compared to other natural preservatives.
TroyCare LSB2 and LSB3 to provide broad
Test results clearly depict the versatility
spectrum protection in systems with pH
Perceivable performance
of the LSB range, by illustrating its strong
TroyCare LSB is effective at low
efficacy, extensive compatibility and its
concentrations, especially compared
effectiveness at higher pH levels. Figure 1
to other natural preservatives. The LSB
demonstrates how TroyCare LSB1 provides
products have been seen to protect various
excellent protection in a shampoo
formulations at levels as low as 0.4 percent,
formulation at a pH of 5.5, while Figures 2
Figure 2: LSB2 used at 0.8 percent in a pH 6.5 leave-on application
levels up to 6.5. •
ChemSystems –
jacques.strydom@chemsystems.co.za
TroyCare – www.troycare.com
Figure 3: LSB3 used at 0.4 percent in a pH 6.5 baby care application
ABOUT Jacques Strydom obtained a degree in chemical engineering at the University of Stellenbosch in 2014. In 2016, he started his career in the industry as R&D manager at a manufacturing company in Cape Town, formulating for retailers like Woolworths and PEP Stores. Strydom recently joined ChemSystems’ consumer specialities team as technical manager for personal care and home care.
LAUNCH
ChemSystems microbiological testing lab, in partnership with Troy Corporation
The Gold Standard for Performance
Offering: · Microbiological screening · Preservative Selection and · · · ·
Efficacy Tests (PET) Microbial Identification Plant Hygiene Audits Formulation and Analytical Assistance Global Regulatory Support
Contact: jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
47
PRESERVATIVES
Verdict:Not Guilty! Despite the paraben free trend, Botanichem’s Robyn Brown says parabens are still the ‘go to’. She shares her option and proof that confirms parabens are still the safest and best preservatives to use.
A
they appear do this weakly and as a result,
panel discussed concerns about the
a significant risk.
bioaccumulation potential of parabens
Concerns surrounding parabens first
noting, as lipid-soluble chemicals,
surfaced in 2004 when a report was
parabens may theoretically distribute
published referring to the concentration of
to tissues despite metabolism. Recent
parabens in human breast tumours. The
studies have demonstrated the presence
report suggested parabens in underarm
of parabens in human tissue, but there
deodorants and antiperspirants could
is no data showing parabens are
be absorbed into the skin and migrate to
metabolised to 4-hydroxybenzoic acid,
breast tissue.
which is considered safe under typical
The study was widely criticised by the scientific community due to the
use conditions. The key take out of this latest research is
fter years of being wrongfully
methodology used and how the conclusions
evidence shows parabens are safe for use
accused of being unsafe,
were reached. The problem with the study
at prescribed and current usage levels.
parabens have been cleared for
was no comparative analysis was carried
The reality is, damage has been done and
use by the Cosmetic Ingredient
Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The panel is made up of world-renowned dermatologists, toxicologists, chemists, consumer protection advocates and public health experts. In its latest review in September 2018, relating to the issue of whether parabens are safe for human use issued, the panel concluded there were 20 parabens,
Evidence shows parabens are safe for use at prescribed and current usage levels
including those most commonly used in cosmetics – methylparaben, propylparaben,
out on healthy tissue. If there had been
butylparaben and ethylparaben – which are
traces of paraben in healthy tissue, which
safe for use under present practices of use
has subsequently been proven, it would
and recommended concentrations.
have ruled out the link to breast cancer.
This conclusion is welcome news and will
In addition, parabens were detected
hopefully put an end to the speculation and
in the blank control samples used for the
debate regarding paraben safety.
study. This was explained as being due to
Parabens are among the most effective
contamination from the glassware. But, if
and safe preservatives for use in cosmetic
this was the case, why wasn’t the same
and skin care formulations. They have
conclusion reached for the detection of
more than 100 years’ history of safe usage
parabens in the breast tissue?¹
and have the lowest incident rate of skin problems in dermatological patients.
Proven safe to use Regardless of the questions raised about
A questionable study
the study’s integrity, it has dominated the
Alternatives to parabens are expensive and
debate on preservative choice and industry
can cause skin reactions. Skin care brands
usage for over a decade.
have been pressured into using alternatives
The latest review will hopefully restore
in order to allay the fears of their customers.
some confidence in the use of parabens,
Parabens have a chemical structure
though there remains some concern about
that is similar to estrogen and can mimic
the build-up of parabens in tissue over time
the effects of the hormone in the body. But
and the associated safety.
48
In its findings, the CIR expert
researchers never considered them
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
it will take some time to change industry and consumers’ perceptions. •
REFERENCES 1. www.cosmeticscef.com
Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za
PRESERVATIVES
Broad spectrum protection for soaps, creams and wet wipes
Preservatives are the silent heroes of cosmetics formulations. They play an integral part in product safety because they help prevent microbial contamination. Symrise is constantly innovating to develop solutions for formulator’s product protection needs. It’s newest offering – SymOcide BHO – is a three in one preservative solution.
S
ymOcide BHO is the first benzyl alcohol-based preservative blend from Symrise, with the added power of SymSave H. The new liquid blend
preservative effectively protects cosmetics from undesired microorganisms such as fungi and bacteria while being safe for human use. In addition to the preservative benzyl alcohol, patent pending SymOcide BHO contains multifunctional ingredients SymSave H, which is an antioxidant, and the emollient, Hydrolite CG.
The product is a true multitasker, easy to process and offers broad spectrum protection against bacteria and other microorganisms creams, wet wipes and face masks. The product also works well with conventional
A suitable alternative
FAST FACTS ON SYMOCIDE BHO • liquid blend featuring benzyl alcohol and Hydroxyacetophenone • contains an antioxidant/soothing agent • ideal for emulsions, aqueous gels, surfactantbased formulas and wet wipes • a true multi-tasking ingredient • suitable for cold-processing • soluble in ethanol and glycol • globally compliant, including China.
surfactants and is effective in sulphate-
With SymOcide BHO, Symrise now offers
The clear, colourless liquid is cold
free systems.
an alternative to its other SymOcide
processable. Its composition is similar to
‘SymOcide BHO is extremely effective
preservatives, which are based on
and safe,’ says Dr Sabrina Behnke, global
SymOcide PH. The difference is SymOcide
o-cymen-5-ol and phenoxyethanol. The
product manager for preservatives in
PH is based on phenoxyethanol while
new development offers an extensive
Symrise’s cosmetics ingredients division.
SymOcide BHO is based on benzyl alcohol.
spectrum of potential applications, ranging
‘The product is a true multitasker, easy
‘Both substances fulfil the requirements
from soaps, shower gels
to process and offers broad spectrum
of the EU cosmetics regulation and
and shampoos to
protection against bacteria and
offer protection for a diverse range of products,’ adds Behnke. ‘SymOcide BHO
other microorganisms.’
is ideal for cosmetics manufacturers that
EU regulations in check
prefer a one-step solution, which can
Symrise’s SymOcide BHO is an option
be cold-processed.’ •
for customers looking for an alternative to phenoxyethanol, but who are not willing to compromise on protection efficacy against microorganisms.
Better together with
Symrise – www.symrise.com
Personal Care
Our task is to help unveil beauty PRESERVATIVES: Below is a selection of a wide range products for preservation and also some for natural antimicrobial solutions that we offer. AMTicide® Coconut From fermenting coconut fruit with Lactobacillus to deliver a non-irritating, antifungal and effective multifunctional product Leucidal® Liquid SF From the fermentation of Lactobacillus in a defined growth medium, this yields a unique peptide and broad spectrum, antimicrobial and conditioning properties. This ferment filtrate is salysalicylate free
Leucidal® Liquid PT Fermented from Lactobacillus acidophilus in the presence of sustainable castor oil. Has enhanced antifungal activity. The result is a broad spectrum antimicrobial product with probiotic and conditioning properties. KATHON™ CG Preservative • An aqueous mixture of methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone primarily used in rinse-off products such as shampoos, conditioners, body washes and liquid soaps. • Excellent broad-spectrum activity against bacteria, yeasts and moulds. Globally
approved, Eco-friendly profile • Suitable alternative to parabens and formaldehyde releasers NEOLONE 950 Preservative • Single active preservative methylisothiazolinone chemistry • Effective broad-spectrum preservative • Compatible with a variety fungicides and bactericides • Simple, water-based formulation for ease of use • Effective alternative to formaldehyde releasers
Contact us: Johannesburg (011) 254 3300 | Cape Town (021) 534 3140 | Durban (031) 902 5324 East London (043) 726 8713 | Port Elizabeth (041) 453 1981
P C Review | FEBRUARY 2019 |
49
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Word Search
TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive
+27 (0)82 976 6541
Carla Melless Sales executive
+27 (0)83 260 6060
Solution Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive
+27 (0)71 438 1918
Gayle Kihn Sales executive
ADVERTISERS' INDEX
+27 (0)82 457 0896
A-Thermal Retort Technologies ............... IFC.........www.athermal.co.za Automation Techniques ..........................23.........www.automation.co.za BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH.......5.........www.carecreations.basf.com Chempure ..............................................31.........www.chempure.co.za Chemsystems .........................................47.........www.chemsystems.co.za Crest Chemicals .....................................49.........www.crestchemicals.com Sappi.................................................... OBC.........www.sappi.com Goldpack ............................................... 21.........www.goldpack.co.za IMCD SA .................................................35.........www.imcdgroup.com ISW Shrink...............................................44.........www.iswshrink.co.za
50
| FEBRUARY 2019 | P C Review
Messe Munchen South Africa ....................7.........www.analytic-africa.com MG2 s.r.l.................................................. 15.........www.mg2.it Millchem .................................................43.........www.millchem.co.za Omron ................................................... 25.........industrial.omron.co.za Prescision Valve....................................... 41.........www.precisionglobal.com Savannah Fine Chemicals........................29.........www.savannah.co.za Sensetek ................................................ 45.........www.sensetek.co.za Teqal.................................................... OFC.........www.teqal.co.za Vantage Speciality Chemicals .................32.........kim@lipo.co.za
Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of
Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery
Cosmetic Chemists’ website will
Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,
find information on membership,
Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and
educational programmes
other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin
(specific details pertaining to the
& Derivatives
Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the
Tel: 010 595 9690
cosmetics and toiletries industries.
Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za
www.coschem.co.za
M&L LABORATORY
DALGEN
M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an
Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers,
extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing
plastic containers, closures and packaging accessories.
services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za
Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za
Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com
FORMPAK
BRB SILICONES
For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,
The largest independent producer in the world of
packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.
Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com
H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations. If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.
core and specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.
www.brb-international.com
QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications. Tablet coatings – manufactured,
113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com
supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC
www.quantumcolours.com
The ideal cosmetic packaging solution Sappiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Paperboard is your complete solution for premium packaging and graphic applications in the cosmetic industry. Recognised for superior whiteness and a remarkable silky touch, Algro Design offers brand owners brilliant colour reproduction, increased shelf impact and unique brand differentiation. Manufactured from a renewable resource, our packaging papers are recyclable and certified with international environmental certification bodies. For more information on our market-leading packaging papers, please visit www.sappi.com
